Associated Nitro TC3 Thread v2.0

[fastharry]

if its the factory team one,thats the way its supposed to be.....its stiffer tahn stock,with less screws to take out..

[Pro3/nmt105]

ok thanks

[qurve]

fastharry, I remember you saying you sometimes race at Barnstomers in NY.... Did you go today?... I was there... I was a kid with a black turtleneck & blue sweatpants..... I heard someone say the name Harry and thought of you...

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
I have a sirio sg crank that i havent opened yet waiting to go into my ntc3 but i heard that it is impossible to tune and that u may have to replace the conrod after break-in(which i dont feel comfortable doing). How hard is ures to tune and do u think some one whos only had 2 nitro engines in the past will b able to tune it?(i know its a tough question for some one whos more experienced with nitro engines cause they dont think what i think is hard) did u have to replace ure con-rod?

As a system: on every engine, after break-in and some tanks of leaning I change the conrod, but on this Sirio I measured the dim of the crank before and after the break-in and the wear was insignificantly, used up to today (5 litres of fuel). Planning to change with the sleeve and piston next month, just in time to start the season.

My Sirio isn't hard to tune, just only some precautions needed to take: Get a o-ring replacement and check usually for loose needles or weird manners (unstable idle, problems to carb, etc...) change the o-rings and 99% assured that problems went.

[fastharry]

yep,I was there...I didn't race.....I came up for some parts...I'll be there on Fri nite for the point series.....if your there,come over and say hi...

[KronicRacer]

what hex driver set should i get. damn kit wrench keeps stripping... also should i go out and get a new bag of screws for it just in case?

t.i.a.,
eddy

[fastharry]

a good set of a wrenches is a must for any associated OR losi car......I have the MIP's..........but the Dynamites are ok,as well as the integys....and there are othger brands too.....

Don't get discouraged.....and I'd pick up some extra screws anyway.....

don't forget to "red" loctite the shock tower screws to the gear box....

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by Corse-R
As a system: on every engine, after break-in and some tanks of leaning I change the conrod, but on this Sirio I measured the dim of the crank before and after the break-in and the wear was insignificantly, used up to today (5 litres of fuel). Planning to change with the sleeve and piston next month, just in time to start the season.

My Sirio isn't hard to tune, just only some precautions needed to take: Get a o-ring replacement and check usually for loose needles or weird manners (unstable idle, problems to carb, etc...) change the o-rings and 99% assured that problems went.
So u had problems with ures and changeing the o-rings in the carb fixed it? I cant decide wether to open it i want an engine that will be easy to tune and not give me problems but fast. What do u think?(sorry for being annoying) Oh and the 5 liters of fuel ure just changeing the p/s for the best performance? because i definitly can afford to replace the p/s after only 5 liters.

Thanx

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
So u had problems with ures and changeing the o-rings in the carb fixed it? I cant decide wether to open it i want an engine that will be easy to tune and not give me problems but fast. What do u think?(sorry for being annoying) Oh and the 5 liters of fuel ure just changeing the p/s for the best performance? because i definitly can afford to replace the p/s after only 5 liters.

Yes, my tunning problems came from loose needles due to faulty o-rings (very common on all engines) a quick swap of o-rings solved and total expenses were 4 Euro. Ever I keep a complete set for the next time.

My piston and sleeve are fine in terms of compression, but due to the change of rules I want to modify my new sleeve, fit a turbo chamber and do some work on the crank, this is why I plan to change the piston and sleeve. The 'older' - non prepped - I'll keep for practice and playing Only on this. Here we run engines with only 16% nitro and we need to punish more the engines to have good performance.

FYI: I have the .21 Sirio (those with AAC piston and sleeve) with more than 4.5 Gallons thru it, compression is still good, but on the new season I'll change too as precaution.

[spenzalii]

Sirio for their price and perf is the best bang for the buck engine you can find.
I figured as much. I have to preface my next question before I get beat over the head with responses, but I want to know b4 making my engine choice (got to get the power to the ground, learn how to drive, et.al).
So far, the Sirio has got pretty good markd from everyone that runs them. Now, there is absolutely no need for me to get a JP Black or a Rody RB mod, I'm sure. The Pixie black, however, looks to be a nice engine also, albiet a bit more than the Sirio Turbo 12. What's the pros/cons of that engine? Throw in a comparable RB or Collari (I may be able to get a good line on a XS12 if it's worth it) if anyone's run it.

PS, anyone take a look at the Hardcore RTR TC3? It's hella pretty, but $1100 is hella steep, if you ask me

[fatslobloser1]

What air filter fits the OS TR? I have tried a few but all were unsucessful at staying on.

[cbr74]

I run an XS 12. I can't tell you much about how it compares to the other high end engines but it has been an awesome power plant for me.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Im having a problem with assembly of my ntc3 the rear hub carriers scrape against the shocks. I had the upper arm mounted in the optional hole and the shocks just missed the shock now that i moved them to the standerd hole the shocks get stuck on the part of the rear hub carrier the the rear toein turnbuckle connects to ill try to post a pic later any suggestions to what could be wrong. I have the lover pivot balls adjusted to the 200mm width and even with around 0 degrees camber i scrapes.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Im having a problem with assembly of my ntc3 the rear hub carriers scrape against the shocks. I had the upper arm mounted in the optional hole and the shocks just missed the shock now that i moved them to the standerd hole the shocks get stuck on the part of the rear hub carrier the the rear toein turnbuckle connects to ill try to post a pic later any suggestions to what could be wrong. I have the lover pivot balls adjusted to the 200mm width and even with around 0 degrees camber i scrapes.

Your upper shock mount position, try something lower.

Compare with my picture, or follow the manual said.

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/ntc3/P0003223.JPG

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Im having a problem with assembly of my ntc3 the rear hub carriers scrape against the shocks. I had the upper arm mounted in the optional hole and the shocks just missed the shock now that i moved them to the standerd hole the shocks get stuck on the part of the rear hub carrier the the rear toein turnbuckle connects to ill try to post a pic later any suggestions to what could be wrong. I have the lover pivot balls adjusted to the 200mm width and even with around 0 degrees camber i scrapes.

Yes, is a known issue when using the outer holes, with the help of a grinding stone on your dremel, try to shave as little to clear the shock from touching at the hub carrier. Try to shave from the lower part to try to maintain as much integrity. I don't have my car at hand, but tomorrow try to post a photo where it shows how to grind the hub carrier.

BTW: Just a tip: try to setup your car to 199mm, because the toe-in on pillowball suspensions are adjusted screwing in and out the front pillowball, letting the rear to adjust the width of the track.

Why 199mm?, because when you go up to 2 or 2.5 degree of toe-in (very usual) your wheel may protrude outer the 200mm and some tech inspectors are very picky and whine when your car measures 201 or 202mm. No matter if this part of the wheel don't touch the ground.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Im not racing till like april so i dont have to worry about that now.
Does anybody have a good setup for rubbers? mabey one that uses a diffrent shock mounting position.

Thanks

[Corse-R]

Hi all:

Here's part of my 'stable' (on-road section).

From left to right:

- Associated NTC3 (Red Stratus). Used last season on two national races, very good, durable, stable, what can we say about the NTC3.
- Xray T1 Evo2 (White Stratus). Used to compete last year at my national series. Very quick a sure weapon at any driver's hands.
- Yokomo YRX10 MkII (Pan car). Used to practice at my local track, unfortunately there's not many Pro10 races on my country. :mad:
- Mugen MTX3 (Whithout body). The car of the next season, got a good deal of sponsorship with a LHS, maybe if AE make an offer... :rolleyes:
- Tamiya TA04-R (Castrol NSX Honda). Used to compete at my local TCS championships (have 2 years and a mere 40 packs), very good car, feel comfortable driving it.

Not present on the photo: Losi XXX-S seemed the ultimate weapon, but never liked it, runs good but handled like s*it, a big deception for me. :(

Show your stable...

[Pro3/nmt105]

Een with it inner setting on the shock tower the shocks still scrapes when in the outer hole on the suspension arm. I guess ill just run the inner hole on the suspension arm and the inner hole on the tower to componsate. What i find strange is that the stock mounting position dosnt work id think they at least make it fit right in the stock position or make the stock position in diffrent holes.

My stable is:
Pro 3 which i dont like at all dosnt handel well and has lots of slop in the suspension parts

Nitro MT ok but really has lots of durability issues resulting from hpis bad designs and lack of testing

FT GT i love this truck never broken one part even when i hit the small tractor at the end of the straight thats used to press don the track

ntc3 almost done building but i cant complete it until i decide if im keeping my sirio or getting another engine. Very high quality very stiff suspension components absolutly no dectectable chassi flex with my graphite upper deck and no slop in the suspension. I cant wait to drive it.

no pics now but after i finish building my ntc3 and clean up the mess i wiill take some

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Een with it inner setting on the shock tower the shocks still scrapes when in the outer hole on the suspension arm. I guess ill just run the inner hole on the suspension arm and the inner hole on the tower to componsate. What i find strange is that the stock mounting position dosnt work id think they at least make it fit right in the stock position or make the stock position in diffrent holes.

This is one of the small 'issues' of the car that makes me think that some parts were constructed in a rush without complete checking. Are little 'bugs' that if you're a hardcore racer don't matter, because you know how to solve, but if you're a parking lot basher makes you furious.

If you're building your car, just a small tip: don't buy the graphite conversion, yes, the parts are cooler, a little lighter but more brittle and prone to break (and expensive to buy), you can skim weight from other sides if you want to put your car on diet and the results are quite the same or better.

[RCCarFreak]

Originally posted by spenzalii
PS, anyone take a look at the Hardcore RTR TC3? It's hella pretty, but $1100 is hella steep, if you ask me

I wish the Hardcore site listed exactly what the car came with. They expect you to pay $1100 based off a picture? Hehehe. :p

Not that I would ever buy one. Building is half the fun. It's nice to know what changes new pieces make when you get them. Having a bunch of mods right off the bat doesn't tell you anything about what gains (if any) they offer. Yup, buying the Hardcore car doesn't seem very appealing to me at all.

[fatslobloser1]

Is anyone using a centax clutch in there TC3? Also, I trimmed my rear carrier alittle more than necessary but I have yet to break. I will change it before a state race but it seems to hold up so far. Another question I have is I have alot of rear hop...nothing is bent, but I am not sure. I run copper springs with 40 weight Trinty oil, just thought I would throw it out there and see if someone could help.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by fatslobloser1
Is anyone using a centax clutch in there TC3? Also, I trimmed my rear carrier alittle more than necessary but I have yet to break. I will change it before a state race but it seems to hold up so far. Another question I have is I have alot of rear hop...nothing is bent, but I am not sure. I run copper springs with 40 weight Trinty oil, just thought I would throw it out there and see if someone could help.

Uhm... this of sharing setups is a two blade knife but, this is my actual setup for foams on a med traction high speed track.

Front:
Red springs with 50wt oil and #2 pistons
9 degrees of caster
3 degrees of camber
1 degree of toe-out
Upper A-arm in the outer hole.
Shock at their stock position.
Front blade roll bar at 15 degrees.
Ground clearance at 4.5 milimeters

Rear:
Cooper springs with 50wt oil and #2 pistons (if have traction and grip change to 60wt rear)
3 degrees of camber
2 degrees of toe-in (each wheel)
Upper A-arm in the inner hole.
Shock at their position.
Rear roll bar wire type (use stock one) if possible fabricate yourself one with 2mm piano wire (better suited to NTC3 rather than stock).
Ground clearance at 5 milimeters

In all cases (front and rear) my 'uptravel' shock is a mere 1 milimeter or 1.5 milimeters, so figure the droop that I run. Adjust the ground clearance cranking the shock collars.

Running with 40 shore foams with front one-way (26mm F/R). Car is very confortable to drive quick. If searching for a rubber setup, sorry I haven't used ever with rubbers.

[Corse-R]

This setup is pretty easy and it's my baseline every time I go to a new track.

Comments:

If the car enters too quickly on the turns, try on this order:
- Reducing rear toe-in
- Reduce from 3 to 2 degrees camber the front tyres.

If need more entering on turns, try:
- Reduce caster from 9 to 6 degrees (warning, makes twitchy at high speed backstraights, so don't give 0 degrees of toe-in)
- Increase the front roll bar from 15 to 30 or 40 degrees (Warning: you go with 4.5mm of ride height there's serious possibility of front bottoming)
- Reduce the rear camber from 3 to 2 degrees.

[jscamry]

i have a nitro tc3 and a ofna starter box. i cannot seem to get thestarter box setup correctly, to make it easy to starrt the engine. any input?



thanks Jason

[waileun]

Originally posted by Corse-R
This is one of the small 'issues' of the car that makes me think that some parts were constructed in a rush without complete checking. Are little 'bugs' that if you're a hardcore racer don't matter, because you know how to solve, but if you're a parking lot basher makes you furious.

If you're building your car, just a small tip: don't buy the graphite conversion, yes, the parts are cooler, a little lighter but more brittle and prone to break (and expensive to buy), you can skim weight from other sides if you want to put your car on diet and the results are quite the same or better.

I totally agree with you. I was contemplating the hardcore version, but decided not to because there is no listing on the parts that were changed.

[RCCarFreak]

I wonder when AE will release a Factory Team NTC3 and what Factory parts it will include...? Anyone have any info on it??

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by RCCarFreak
I wonder when AE will release a Factory Team NTC3 and what Factory parts it will include...? Anyone have any info on it??

I shouldn't bother about what carries a future Factory Team (for sure that someday launches those version), for sure that comes with graphite, titanium, all the blue stuff and people are talking about a centax.

I prefeer composite than graphite is less prone to break, and 'improving' the exiting Team version. Mine is loaded with aluminium screws (selected places), lightweight transmission, graphite radio plate, front blade roll bar and 4 titanium pillowballs, the rest is mostly stock less than the exhaust (mandatory two chamber).

If you wonder why? easy: Why lower the weight under the legal limit compromising durability and if I need to choose, prefeer to have steel on my chassis, steel weights and keeps your CG lower, thus you can get higher cornering speed.

Like much people, went upgrading my car as I was getting acustomed to it and saw their limitations and places to improve, other changed as I wore parts, but are more details that cannot come on a FT version.

My advice, get your Team version, drive them, enjoy them and improve them as you need, you better than the factory to know what parts you might need to improve (many parts on FT are 'eye candy' and don't have a real performance impact). IMHO

[RCCarFreak]

Originally posted by Corse-R
I shouldn't bother about what carries a future Factory Team (for sure that someday launches those version), for sure that comes with graphite, titanium, all the blue stuff and people are talking about a centax.

I prefeer composite than graphite is less prone to break, and 'improving' the exiting Team version. Mine is loaded with aluminium screws (selected places), lightweight transmission, graphite radio plate, front blade roll bar and 4 titanium pillowballs, the rest is mostly stock less than the exhaust (mandatory two chamber).

If you wonder why? easy: Why lower the weight under the legal limit compromising durability and if I need to choose, prefeer to have steel on my chassis, steel weights and keeps your CG lower, thus you can get higher cornering speed.

Like much people, went upgrading my car as I was getting acustomed to it and saw their limitations and places to improve, other changed as I wore parts, but are more details that cannot come on a FT version.

My advice, get your Team version, drive them, enjoy them and improve them as you need, you better than the factory to know what parts you might need to improve (many parts on FT are 'eye candy' and don't have a real performance impact). IMHO

Yeah, I wasn't planning on getting one. I feel the same way as you about un-needed parts for eye candy and only upgrading what is really needed. I was more curious than anything else. It will probably be pretty simular to Mark's car featured in RC Action recently.

[fatslobloser1]

What parts are necessary to lighten up the tranny? Did you notice a big or small difference? Any of you guys running the centax clutch?

[lbckevin]

fatsloblser1,

I run the Kawahara centax clutch ...I love the adjsutability and quick adjustment. I run on a 1/8 th scale track and it works great. Its available at speedtech.com for $90.

I run the lightweight parts for the 2 speed. I dont notice a difference but it is less rotating mass. Less mass equals quicker acceleration.


Good Luck...

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by lbckevin
I run the lightweight parts for the 2 speed. I dont notice a difference but it is less rotating mass. Less mass equals quicker acceleration.

Yeah, noticed this when I tested my centax clutch, the lightweight tranny is well noted when used with 2 or 3 shoes, the centax clutch, more brute by nature hides the lighter transmission.

[Distro]

anyone have a problem with the lower hing pins breaking through the back part of the hinge pin holders? (the back one up front.) I hit something rather hard and it pushed the pin right though.

[Twist 2 Go]

I installed the lightweight 2 spd hub only on my car. LHS was out of other 2 pieces. Did it help? Hard to say because at the same time I did the following mods also:
21/54 gears
27/48 gears
heavy ae clutch springs
drilled clutch shoes

Now all these together made a HUGE difference in the way my car runs.

[Infernoracer]

Where on the web can I find the K-Factory parts and prices?

[Twist 2 Go]

http://www.kfactoryracing.com/

http://www.teamtrinity.com/

[Infernoracer]

$50 for a fuel tank???? Are they nutz?

[penggoy]

hi guys do u know where can find a good deal on .12 sirio engine online besides towerhobbies? thnx

[tOrcHed Lh]

sheldons hobbies:
http://www.btown.com/sheldons/listing/tri08.html
$140.

[sean68]

is this k factory stuff made out of gold?? the prices are insane!!!

[need4speed4]

hey has anyone else had this problem where when the reciever batteries get low, all of the sudden the throttle servo locks at max throttle and the steering servo locks at the maximum turning point(either left or right)? Man! it was horrible, it just took off down the street at full speed(well almost, cuz it was riding up against the curb) it would of just kept on goin, but the curb finally stopped it! All I broke was the bottom two pivot-ball socket caps on the left side, I burnt the clutch, and I totally scratched up the left rims. Also, damn this hobby's expensive! In one week I've spent about 150 bucks!

[tOrcHed Lh]

that's what a failsafe is for:

[Distro]

Throttle return springs are cheaper and just as good.

[RCCarFreak]

Originally posted by Distro
Throttle return springs are cheaper and just as good.

And at $3, you'd think AE could supply one in the kit. :rolleyes:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUP98&P=7

A throttle return spring has saved my car and my buddies as well. On my buddies, his throttle linkage wire broke while we were racing (on his HPI Super Nitro). His car just came to a stop and idled. Whew.

I don't remember what happened to mine. I just remember being damn glad I had that little spring on there.

[tOrcHed Lh]

You need both a TRS AND a failsafe.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by sean68
is this k factory stuff made out of gold?? the prices are insane!!!

Nope.... but you may need to pay premium all those aluminium and blue anodized eye-candy parts.

Stick to AE parts, are durable and good quality, but make yourself a favor: don't spend your money on the graphite conversion and all those people whining about breaking parts 95% all of them run graphite parts.

[sook]

Originally posted by Corse-R
Nope.... but you may need to pay premium all those aluminium and blue anodized eye-candy parts.

Stick to AE parts, are durable and good quality, but make yourself a favor: don't spend your money on the graphite conversion and all those people whining about breaking parts 95% all of them run graphite parts.

Don't you ever feel that you are wasting your breath, or in this case typing. I have heard you repeat this over and over again. People are going to want to hear and listen to the things that they want. I have read pages 1 through 86 on this thread and all is useless information except for maybe 10 sheets. Good luck to those that come here for racing advice.

I do agree with you Corse-R (100%). Good luck on your next season.

[TC3_racer_14]

which nitro vehicle should I get, the nitro RS4 RTR 3 or the nitro TC3 RTR. I dont have a lot of money, and I know the RS4 RTR 3 is cheaper to buy. but should I save my pennies and buy the TC3 or shoud I get the RTR 3? It will be my first nitro. although I know quite a lot about how a rc car performs, I just don't know about nitro engines and linkages and stuff. I will probably get a biast opinion here so thats why I'm posting in both forums. Thanks for any help!

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Infernoracer
Where on the web can I find the K-Factory parts and prices?

Try steve's place...

www.speedtechrc.com

The $50 gas tank is MSRP....not really the retail (street) price, but I still think the $12 Associate revised tank did the perfect job already.....

[RCCarFreak]

Originally posted by TC3_racer_14
which nitro vehicle should I get, the nitro RS4 RTR 3 or the nitro TC3 RTR. I dont have a lot of money, and I know the RS4 RTR 3 is cheaper to buy. but should I save my pennies and buy the TC3 or shoud I get the RTR 3? It will be my first nitro. although I know quite a lot about how a rc car performs, I just don't know about nitro engines and linkages and stuff. I will probably get a biast opinion here so thats why I'm posting in both forums. Thanks for any help!

There are some reviews of the NTC3 in the recent RC Action and other Nitro mags. It got very high marks. Last season a guy at my track had a RS4 3 and spent a lot of money on upgrades for it but then ended up getting a NTC3 after he kept getting his butt kicked by them and it breaking too much - ball joints popping out and the center dogbone breaking. I've seen his problems with the RS4 and the $$ it cost him so I would definately get the NTC3. It rocks out of the box.

[Rookie Solara]

You can convert the NTC3 to full titanium or blue alloy or carbon for some little money........but you are still race the NTC3 out of the box.

In this case, I would get the NTC3 as well, but if possible, get the real kits (Ntc3 race kit, not the RTR kits)

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/ntc3/newkit01.jpg

[Rookie Solara]

I know this is not a advertizing forum, but just want to see if anyone want to get brand new NTC3 kits for cheap......I have 10 and you can get them for very low price....

See link below.....

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=109822

Thanks

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by sook
Don't you ever feel that you are wasting your breath, or in this case typing. I have heard you repeat this over and over again. People are going to want to hear and listen to the things that they want. I have read pages 1 through 86 on this thread and all is useless information except for maybe 10 sheets. Good luck to those that come here for racing advice.

I do agree with you Corse-R (100%). Good luck on your next season.
hes just trying to keep people from wasting their money on somthing they will regret later

[Distro]

where did you get 10 kits?! thats like 2600 bux worth of kits.

[SimonFDR]

He stole them :p Just kidding. I dont know But it sucks. I rather get a RTR and mod that. its just 30 bucks more.

[TC3_racer_14]

I have decided to get the nitro TC3 RTR!:D Do you guys know how fast the NTC3 RTR goes out of the box after break-in? thanks for all the help!:D

[thefuzzclub]

In my experienced, it went between 40 to 45 mph. Installing a two speed tranny will further increase to 50+mph. Goodluck.

[RCCarFreak]

Anyone have a Hudy setup board? I just got one but the paper on the back of the sticker won't come off cleanly - it just tears, leaving half removed paper! Anyone have any tips for getting the stupid paper off without ripping it? Unbelievable. Hudy sucks. So glad the rest of my setup board system is from Integy. Sigh. :mad:

[frank13]

if you contact hudy they will replace it,, they ahd a problem with the stickers ,, but its fixed now

[RCCarFreak]

Originally posted by frank13
if you contact hudy they will replace it,, they ahd a problem with the stickers ,, but its fixed now

I'll give em a call tomorrow. Thanks. Hopefully they won't tell me I have to send it back to Europe or something silly like that. It would cost me more to do that than the sticker cost. :rolleyes:

[nitroguy2001]

hey,
ya i had the same problem, let me know what you had to do, then i will do it.
:D :) :cool:

[RCCarFreak]

Originally posted by nitroguy2001
hey,
ya i had the same problem, let me know what you had to do, then i will do it.
:D :) :cool:

Lol. Will do heh.

[RCCarFreak]

I called up Hudy USA and the guy said "Ah yeah, they had some bad ones. What's your name and address?" They're sending me out a new one. I guess Hudy is alright after all. ;)

[nitro#1]

Sup folks... i just got my ntc3 bout a week ago with a Top .12 and a Mx3 radio. i just bout finished building it and had a question on the motor. its a slide carb...actually first off anyone have a Top .12 here??? is it good..the guy at the lhs recommended it. can someone tell me how slide carb works?? when i put in the servo, seems when i brake the carb closes, wouldnt that cut the motor out, do i have to adjust my radio settings?? im new to nitro so be easy on me, i use to own a tamiya grasshopper waaayyy back in the days....anyways thanks in advance

[sook]

Actually nitro#1, there are more than one solution to your problem. The best way I would think is to adjust your throttle and brake limit settings on the radio. Set the idle adjustment screw on your carb so that it does not close all the way upon braking. Make sure you read the instructions on your engine and carb. Sorry, I have not heard of a Top .12 engine. I also do not own an Mx3 radio, but I am sure that it will have something simular to trim settings and limit settings for your servo's. Good luck and have fun with your ntc3.

[nitro#1]

Appreciate the reply, i did read the manual for the engine but doesnt help at all. oh the Top engine is a Nova Rossi line...
anyone else have anything to ad

thanks again

[RCCarFreak]

Originally posted by nitro#1
Appreciate the reply, i did read the manual for the engine but doesnt help at all. oh the Top engine is a Nova Rossi line...
anyone else have anything to ad

thanks again

Pull off your air filter. Adjust your idle screw until there is about a 1mm opening inside the carb when the throttle is closed (during idle and braking). You'll probably need to adjust the linkages as well so that there is slight pressure keeping the carb closed during idle. Check it before running. Make sure the carb position is closed during idle and braking. It shouldn't close any more during braking than it is when idling.

Now once you start it up, use the idle adjustment screw to adjust how fast the motor idles.

Your engine should have come with instructions that detail the default needle settings for break-in, and then the default needle settings for after break-in. This should include the default idle screw settings.

Hope that helps.

[nitro#1]

ill try that... I will be breakin in my car this Sunday...i hope i dont break anything.....

[RCCarFreak]

Originally posted by nitro#1
ill try that... I will be breakin in my car this Sunday...i hope i dont break anything.....

Be sure to carefully read the engine's instructions for the break-in process and to follow exactly what it says and to be patient. Don't get anxious and start gunning it until you've completed the break-in process. A little patience now will pay off with a nice strong engine later.

[TC3_racer_14]

Does the .12 engine that comes with the nitro TC3 RTR have a low speed needle and a high speed needle? thanks

[NTC3Fan]

Where can i buy a circle cutter online??
for a reasonable price too...
or is there another way to cut out circles for the air flow etc... on the body

Cheers!!

[RCCarFreak]

Originally posted by NTC3Fan
Where can i buy a circle cutter online??
for a reasonable price too...
or is there another way to cut out circles for the air flow etc... on the body

Cheers!!

THe Olfa cutter is only $10 and works like a champ.

HPI sells the Olfa cutter from their site, but it says they are sold out. http://www.hpiracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=BH&Category_Code=Tools

I know that Redmond Hobbies sells them. You'll have to call to them to place an order though. http://www.redmondhobbies.com

[yeeehaw]

I am buying the kit later this month. I know it does not come with radio, motor, support equipment(g. igniter, starting method,etc) I have a radio, servos, g.igniter, rx pack.
But does it come with fuel tubing, C. A., diff- gear lube (if it needs it) I also need to pick up some thread lock. but what do I need to pick up at my lhs when I pick up the car?

P.S. will a O. S. CVX do good in this car.

Matt

[coastal-tony]

What do you guys use for a tire truer?
I have been running rubber tires, but going through a lot of them.
I just got a boat-load of Jacos, and need to get them down to a manageable race size, or do I just run them till they are 161mm, or race ready?

[SimonFDR]

How fast would a TC3 go with a O.S. .12 TR (P) w/10J Slide-Valve Carb , and a two speed tranny?

Link to engine: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXALM6&P=7

I got this deal for 280 shipped, with the starter kit, no remote, rear exhaust. Used. Was this a good deal?

[TC3_racer_14]

Does the .12 engine that comes with the nitro TC3 RTR have a low speed needle and a high speed needle? thanks

[yeeehaw]

hey If I read right it does have a 2 needle carb. Please respond guys to my post above.
Matt

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by SimonFDR
How fast would a TC3 go with a O.S. .12 TR (P) w/10J Slide-Valve Carb , and a two speed tranny?

Link to engine: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXALM6&P=7

I got this deal for 280 shipped, with the starter kit, no remote, rear exhaust. Used. Was this a good deal? you got a pretty good deal a new ntc3 and tr would cost about $410 and u got it for 280 although its used(?) its still a good deal

[jscamry]

hey all i have a nitro tc3 and an ofna pink starter box, pt# 10258. and i and having a hell of a time trying to setup the box for my car. any help(or pics) would be greatly appreciated...

THanks Jason

[rickedstyles]

you can get olfa circle cutter at michaels craft store if you have one near you they are with all the scissors and stuff

[speedydave]

Hey guys. I'm just wondering what kind of tire life you usually see with what tires on what surface? And also, is the surface treated? If I do get into nitro onroad, I'll be running foamies on a treated(diluted rootbeer) permenant asphalt track, but I'm worried about tire life(the shorter the tire life, the more money I have to spend on tires...ugh..). Thanks. :)

[NTC3Fan]

Which one shud i get for my Sirio .12 Engine???

O.S. #8 Glow Plug Standard Long
O.S. #A3 Glow Plug

Or is there some other one i'm supposed to get???
I'm busy getting stuff from Tower so i'm gonna order it from them too...
So could someone point me to the correct plug on Towers site..
Thnxs

[Distro]

I like the mc 59s, but that is just a preferance.

[supra528]

hey, ive got a sirio too and i used an O.S. P7 glo plug
mike

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by coastal-tony
What do you guys use for a tire truer?
I have been running rubber tires, but going through a lot of them.
I just got a boat-load of Jacos, and need to get them down to a manageable race size, or do I just run them till they are 161mm, or race ready?

I'll true all my tyres to 62.5mm and start using them a little (for adjusting the tyre to camber angles). Depending the size I'll keep for different uses:

59mm and lower: 5 minute heats.
59 - 62: Finals.

When tyres are 56 or under, I'll toss to thashcan, too skimmy and prone to rip and chunk.

On moist or wet, things go bigger sometimes I ended using full 64 or 65mm foams.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by NTC3Fan
Which one shud i get for my Sirio .12 Engine???

O.S. #8 Glow Plug Standard Long
O.S. #A3 Glow Plug

Or is there some other one i'm supposed to get???
I'm busy getting stuff from Tower so i'm gonna order it from them too...
So could someone point me to the correct plug on Towers site..
Thnxs

I ever used Novarrosi plugs, #5 and #6 are the most common to use (#5 for air temps between 10ºC and 30ºC and #6 for air temps from 30ºC and up) sometimes this temp figures aren't exact, depends too of the track type and how fast is.

Using 16% nitro, with higher contents, this figures can vary.

[SimonFDR]

Right now I have a O.S. TR.12 Engine with a No Pull Start. I think the fact that I have to carry around the Starter Box Is annoying. Is there anyway I can make it a pull start or at least not have to use the starter box?

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Corse-R
I ever used Novarrosi plugs, #5 and #6 are the most common to use (#5 for air temps between 10ºC and 30ºC and #6 for air temps from 30ºC and up) sometimes this temp figures aren't exact, depends too of the track type and how fast is.

Using 16% nitro, with higher contents, this figures can vary.

Where can i purchase those???

[Pro3/nmt105]

Ntc3 fan have u been running ure sirio if so how do u like it and is it hard to tune? Im still debating whether to keep mine. Ive heard that the best plug for the sirio is the McCoy MC59.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by NTC3Fan
Where can i purchase those???

On many LHS you can find them, those plugs appear under various names: Novarrosi, Rex, Top, RB, Mega...

Try to find them on Towehobbies, Speedtech or other quality stores.

[RCCarFreak]

Originally posted by SimonFDR
Right now I have a pull start O.S. TR.12 Engine with a No Pull Start. I think the fact that I have to carry around the Starter Box Is annoying. Is there anyway I can make it a pull start or at least not have to use the starter box?

I don't think they make a pullstart version of the TR so you'll need a new engine with a pull-starter (ouch). You'll also need the pullstart motor mounts for the NTC3, and the NTC3 flywheel for pullstart engines.

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Ntc3 fan have u been running ure sirio if so how do u like it and is it hard to tune? Im still debating whether to keep mine. Ive heard that the best plug for the sirio is the McCoy MC59.

Unfortunitly not yet....
i'm trying to find a good glow plug to use on it and cant seem to find the ones Corse-r listed on Tower....
Tower only has MCcoy and Duratrax Glow plugs and i dont know which one is the right one....
They got the Mccoy: mc4, mc8, mc9, mc50, mc55, mc59
and i dont know which one will be best suited for the engine...

The engine is just sitting on a Aircraft engine mount now with a propeller waiting to get broken in.....

Until i get the right plug i wont know...

[Pro3/nmt105]

MC59 is the right one for an unmodded sirio one of the factory drivers on the trinity forum confirmed it. If u lower the head butt on (take out shims) it works best with a mc8

[Pro3/nmt105]

btw arent u supposed to breakin the engine in the car? from what i heard ure supposed to drive it at low speeds for the first tank.

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
btw arent u supposed to breakin the engine in the car? from what i heard ure supposed to drive it at low speeds for the first tank.

Thats wot i'm basically achieving........
With the prop on its like running the car at low speeds and its running rich, only rich enuff not to stall.....
I only run it like this for 2 tanks b4 it goes into the car where i lean it a tad and have the car run...

K so u say i shud get the MC59.....
Thnxs

[Distro]

The fan blade provides enough force against the engine. It is how some people break in engines, some just drive the car around.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Distro
The fan blade provides enough force against the engine. It is how some people break in engines, some just drive the car around.

Guys.

I've seen so many posts regarding how to break-in your engines. So I'll write for yours how I break-in. Not pretending to be the best, but is how I break-in them and got good results.

Install your engine on your car and start it (use the same fuel you plan to use after).

Open the main needle for having an extremely rich mixture and with the trottle at full WOT standing on your starter box and your car shouldn't get high revolutions and need to 'fourstroke' - if you made it your engine should rotate at medium rpms and make a sound like if bogs, your exhaust should spit lots of unburnt fuel and oil. Do it for 3 or 4 full tanks and let the engine to cool on every tank.

Warning: DO NOT OPEN the fuel tank lid when your car is at WOT if you do it your mixture goes too lean due to lack of tank pressure. If you need to open the tank lid, close the throttle.

A good engine temp during this phase of the break in should be about 70ºC.

After those 3 or 4 tanks, you can run your car on the track, in this moment adjust the engine for being rich (not richer than before) but you may notice a lot of smoke coming out the exhaust, run them trying to not pushing too hard the engine for another 2 or 3 tanks.

Your engine temp should be about 80 or 85ºC NOT HIGHER.

After this you can start leaning your engine at each tank (try to not lean more than 1/16th of turn on each tank). You may end your break in session maintaining an engine temp of 100ºC with lot of blue smoke for a couple tanks.

I had broken-in with this method more than 50 (Some of these were the AAC .21 Sirios). In total break-in you may spend about a quarter of fuel. After this your engine is ready to race it.

I don't like the break-in stands for my engines, sometimes those propellers are too low on pitch and let the engine to rev-up too much, prefer the 'fourstroking' method.

[Pro3/nmt105]

from what i heard in the tuning thread most people use the factory settings and run it slowly for the first tank making sure it gets up to around 200F you do this for 3 or 4 tanks going a little faster each tank and then begin to lean it in small turns still at mid speeds and then when you get up to around 8 tanks start hitting WOT. This is the way im planning to break in my sirio if i decide to keep it.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
from what i heard in the tuning thread most people use the factory settings and run it slowly for the first tank making sure it gets up to around 200F you do this for 3 or 4 tanks going a little faster each tank and then begin to lean it in small turns still at mid speeds and then when you get up to around 8 tanks start hitting WOT. This is the way im planning to break in my sirio if i decide to keep it.

The first moments of the break in are crucial, because the metal to metal contact is too tight and needs a lot of lubrication (that's what he needs to be overly rich), thus the extreme rich of the mixture helps to wash and clean any residues that should be on the engine internals.

Many times the stock factory settings are for a easy start-up of the engine, not for break in (too lean for those first moments). If you had several engines you saw that those 'factory settings' are close to the settings you may use for running the engine, in fact RB and others warns about using 'factory settings' for break-in the engines.

[Pro3/nmt105]

well on my cv-r Os gives u settings for breakin and factory settings from what ive heard the factory settings on the sirio are rich and you must lean the motor out further from them. Btw what temps to you run your motor at for the first several tanks? as of now im pretty sure ill use the ron paris method

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
well on my cv-r Os gives u settings for breakin and factory settings from what ive heard the factory settings on the sirio are rich and you must lean the motor out further from them. Btw what temps to you run your motor at for the first several tanks? as of now im pretty sure ill use the ron paris method

I needed to open up to 2 1/2 full turns the main needle to make the break-in as I described on the previous message. Sirio 'factory settings' are for an easy start definitely not for break-in.

BTW: This method is the same as one JP official needed to break-in a new motor on the 1/8 on-road euros last summer (I talked with it some time about this break-in method). If it's good for JP is good for me.

[penggoy]

hi guys anybody here using the osmax 12tr?im just going to ask u the preset needle setting of this engine.which one are u going to adjust first after the idle speed screw, the high speed needle or the low speed needle? thnx in advance

[speedydave]

Can someone please answer my question? :(

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by speedydave
I'm just wondering what kind of tire life you usually see with what tires on what surface? And also, is the surface treated? If I do get into nitro onroad, I'll be running foamies on a treated(diluted rootbeer) permenant asphalt track, but I'm worried about tire life(the shorter the tire life, the more money I have to spend on tires...ugh..). Thanks. :)

Your question is too broad, all depends on some factors and tyre hardness is only a part of the equation, other parts are, surface and kind of abrasiveness, your driving (if you throw the car on the curbs or you're gentle with it), track temp and others, but to answer your question, that seems you're worried about tyre life I'll advise to you go for foams.

Pros:
- Longer tyre life than rubbers. On foams, all foam present in the wheel is ready to be worn not like rubbers on what you have 1mm or little more to wore out. In fact, in practice you can achieve up to several litres of one tyre set.
- No 'sweet spots'. Unlike rubbers that need to be previously wore to have peak grip conditions, foams have the same (or almost the same grip conditions) during all the life of the tyre.
- No need of tyre heaters/traction sauces or others. No need of preheating tyres and no worry of overheating tyres.
- No need to carry tons of tyres to the track, only few hardness (i.e: 37, 40 and 42 shores) , not like rubbers that depending rim, insert and tyre makes the combinations grow exponentially.
- The hardest foam is softer than the softest rubber.
- More affordable than the equivalent on rubbers. (A set of 4 foams costs me about 23 Euros vs. the more 45 Euros that costs me a rubber set with inserts and rims.

Cons:
- Need a tyre truer to cut the foams to correct size and to equal fronts to rears (no way, with 30mm rears keep wearing faster than fronts). Maybe on your track someone have one that permits to skim your tyres for free.
- If you slam boards or other objects, your tyres can chunk (if occurs you can repair with shoe goo, don't use CA to repair foam tyres).
- If your track is dusty, you may have advantage running threaded rubbers, but when your track starts to self clean, foams are quicker.

For me foams are almost all advantages to rubbers. If I need to choose, I choose foams.

Some pages ago I made a post about foams, try to find it if you want more info or be more precise on your question.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by penggoy
hi guys anybody here using the osmax 12tr?im just going to ask u the preset needle setting of this engine.which one are u going to adjust first after the idle speed screw, the high speed needle or the low speed needle? thnx in advance

Hi penggoy:

Your question is one of the most common questions regarding good carburation methods, some time ago I read an article regarding carburation you have a link to:

http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/super_tune.asp

Other interesting article is:

http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/carburetor.asp

But for being short:

I'll tune first the main needle, when I have the main needle adjusted go for the low-end needle and then I'll play with the idle and low-end needles to get my engine tuned.

Tunning your carburetor isn't complicated, but you have to know what to do, when and why, these two articles explain with detail.

[SimonFDR]

Where can I get these rims?

They're made by Hot Works.

[SimonFDR]

Where can I get a blue screw set for the Tc3?

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by SimonFDR
Where can I get a blue screw set for the Tc3?

Here:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSG34&P=7

or on other fine Hobby stores, like this (http://www.speedtechrc.com)

[hpi#1]

does the NTC3 RTr come with universal dogbones

[coastal-tony]

Corse-R, thanks
That was a lot of typing
On an average day of nitro sedan racing, you
will almost use a set of 4 tires. It is best
to have many spare sets of foam tires of
different shore ratings. 15 to 20 degrees of
track temp. is big. I race in s Florida, and
today the track temp. moved 15 degrees.
If you don't have, or, can't use a tire truer
running full size foam tires during practice
is a bonus. They will give you a better feel
for the track, and when they get small enough
you have a feel for the track, and can go a
bit heavy on the throttle.
NTC3/Collari SX-12/stock gears/watch out:cool:

[SimonFDR]

Whats the best spur/pinion config you can recommend?

[penggoy]

Originally posted by Corse-R
Hi penggoy:

Your question is one of the most common.....

thnx corse r

[hkgasmd]

hey guys, does anybody know how to convert a NTC3 RTR kit to a non-pull start? What are to part numbers? Also is it possible to use the starter box on an engine that has a pull start without damaging the engine or starter? I'm tired of removing my body each time I need to restart. Thanks in advance.

[pilothyer]

First off I'd like to say "great thread" I have read all 90 pages of this fine thread and I have learned a lot from you guys that own, race, and love the great NTC3. I gladly join ranks with you as I think it is a fantastic car. I was very surprised to see (or not see rather) any information regarding the assembly of the 2 speed clutch. I noticed that when I followed the instructions as they were presented in the assembly manual I assembled my clutch backwards and I am just wondering if maybe some of you did also. Look at page 8 and step 8, if you assemble the shoes that way they will be backwards. You can check to see if you did by looking at the 2 speed housing.......if you see your shoes protrude outside the housing by approx. 1/16 inch and the adjustment holes don't line up perfectly with the adjustment screws, you like me got it backwards I am not sure how much of a performance degrade this is but it does cause less contact surface within the clutch. let me know what you find..

[yeeehaw]

Simon, I think Schumacher distributes them or other types.

does the ntc3 come with fuel tubing if so how long is it?
How much Hp does the .12 cvx have???
Matt

[speedydave]

Thanks Corse-R. The track I race at has a permenant, treated(diluted rootbeer) asphalt track( www.deltarc.com ). I know someone with a tire truer, so I'm sure I can work out a deal with him to truemy tires/let me use his truer. I've been racing for 2 years, into RC for over 5, so I don't thrash my cars too hard on the track(I don't try to hit stuff ;) ). I'm sure I'll hit boards like everyone else, but I don't think it'll be such a constant thing that my tires will chunk every day I race. I live in California(east bay area), so the track temps are usually kinda up there, but I've never raced onroad before, so I wouldn't know for sure. I'll try to find out what shore tires the fast guys are running, then I'll try to ask a more specific question. Thanks again.

[Way2Fast]

Originally posted by hkgasmd
hey guys, does anybody know how to convert a NTC3 RTR kit to a non-pull start? What are to part numbers? Also is it possible to use the starter box on an engine that has a pull start without damaging the engine or starter? I'm tired of removing my body each time I need to restart. Thanks in advance.

To convert it you need:

NTC3 Non-Pullstart Flywheel - #2322
NTC3 Non-Pullstart Engine Mounts - #2341
or the factory aluminum ones - #1710

Yes, you can start an engine with a pullstart on a starter box without any problems. Of course if you run the non-pullstart flywheel and mounts, you will want to remove the pullstart from your engine and get a non-pullstart backplate for your engine. Otherwise, if you plan to leave the pullstarter on there but also use a starter box, just leave it as is.

[Distro]

I found out today, on a high grip track, run heavily run in tires.. Otherwise the car traction rolls..

[spenzalii]

I'm tired of removing my body each time I need to restart.

Actually, you don't need to with a little modification to the body. Cut oyt the side window, slip a piece of fuel tubing over bart of the string on the pullstart, just enoung do you can reach it. Now, you can pull it from there. Don't forget to ream a hole over the glow plug hole for the glow plug lighter, and place a piece of tubing around the window sill, so you won't cut the pullstart off! Takes less than 5 minutes and won't cost a thing. (This tip was in one of the issues of RCCA, but I can't remember which) Give that a shot if that's the only reason you want a starter box.

[hpi#1]

Originally posted by hpi#1
does the NTC3 RTR come with universal dogbones?

anyone?

[spenzalii]

I think they still come with CVD's, let me check the article

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by coastal-tony
On an average day of nitro sedan racing, you
will almost use a set of 4 tires. It is best
to have many spare sets of foam tires of
different shore ratings.

Yep!, when I attend to nationals I carry a full box of tyres, but experience said me that isn't necesary to carry 10 sets of every hardness. On my tyre box I keep:

1 Set of 45 fronts.
2 Set of 42 fronts and rears.
3 Set of 40 fronts and rears.
1 Set of 37 fronts and rears.
1 Set of 35 rears.

This is what I carry to big races, but for regionals or club races I go with the set installed on the car (generally 40's) and one set of 37's and other of 42's. Carrying more tyres is an overkill, and as race evolves for sure that I need to swap for the next upper hardness.

If you don't have, or, can't use a tire truer
running full size foam tires during practice
is a bonus. They will give you a better feel
for the track, and when they get small enough
you have a feel for the track, and can go a
bit heavy on the throttle.

Sometimes my track buddy don't carries the tyre truer and then we need to wear previously the tyres as you say (try to wear to 62mm a set of 45 fronts from 65mm... :D ) we do quite laps up to the diameter we want the tyres (kinda funny to see me or my track buddy with the caliper measuring the tyres every few laps).

[hpi#1]

Originally posted by spenzalii
I think they still come with CVD's, let me check the article

thanks

[Pro3/nmt105]

are u talking about the rtr? well if u are i just checked the associated site and it comes with driveshafts described as a Uni-axle design i havent seen them though.

[hpi#1]

k thanks

[XXXER]

Hey guys, I have been loving my Nitro TC3 for almost 2 weeks now. Thank you Corse-R, Coastal Tony, and everyone else that helped me out with my things. My MT12 runs excellent, and runs without a hiccup. I ran 3 non-stop tanks through it, and I was still able to wrap my hand around the engine head. I am getting about 8 1/2 minutes per tank. I have over 1/2 gallon through it, which is just wild. Just Saturday, when driving my car at work (Hobby shop) I slid sideways into an island in the parking like. I hit the stupid corner (basically a curb) right exactly on the Exhaust stinger, and I caved in my pipe (Posting pics soon!), broke my front shock tower, diff case, gas tank, pivot ball dust cap, and one of the wings on my front bumper. I am replacing the pivot balls also, even though they are not bent, but because they are probably stressed. I see that there are some Factory Team Ti ones, and I was wondering if anyone has used them yet. My stock tires lasted all of 6 tanks before completely wearing through, and I am now sporting a set of X-Pattern belted tires on Inch Up dish wheels. They are holding up better, but I still want to get some foams, as they are my best bet.

Also, I am buckling down and getting the Natural Ano'd Dual Chamner pipe (Though I never planned on replacing the stock one).

Later guys!

-Steve

[yeeehaw]

Hey guys, I plan on racing in Tulsa and go to my highschool parking lot every day.
I have narrowed my engine choices down to:

O.S. .12 cvx,tr,cv
Fantom fr12
Mugen mt 12
sirio roar legal .12

I can get the O.S. engines @ my local hobby shop
I also perfer not to buy off the enternet, I can get the hobby shop to order the parts but I am afraid they will charge me an arm and a leg for them.
So with that said can you help me pick an engine
and wich kit's pipe is better,
and is there any other way of starting an engine with out a ps, starterbox,bump start or should I get friendly with Ebay(starter wise)
Where on the internet can you find the mt12 for cheaper and does Mugen Seiki have a web page???
please help PLEEEEEEEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!


Matt

[Pro3/nmt105]

well if u want to stick to os definitly get the tr and since it dosnt sound like your doing any official racing u could get the tr turbo which is slightly more powerful.

Oh i just found out my kit included a 3 shoe clutch! this is sweet! i planned on buying one anyway so now i wont have too. only problem is i think i need the stiff clutch springs for my sirio but i only orderd 2 because i was unaware that my kit would have a 3 shoe clutch. do all ntc3 kits come with a 3 shoe clutch now? oh Corse-R and other people who own the sirio will i definitly need the stiff springs for the 3 shoe clutch? i remember you telling me id need them for the sirio once but im not sure.

[Pro3/nmt105]

i just noticed that it seems like the 3 shoe flywheel just misses fitting over the inner part of the sirio crank shaft will the collet ake up enough space so that i wont need to modify the flywheel to make the tiny little that wont fit over fit?

[Pro3/nmt105]

fhew false alarm with some encouragement it went on

[us_matrix]

Hi,

I know it has been posted before but hope someone can give me a quick answer.
The stock gear combination is 22/26, 54/50. What is the best Top End/Low end gear combination ?

Thanks.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by XXXER
I see that there are some Factory Team Ti ones, and I was wondering if anyone has used them yet. My stock tires lasted all of 6 tanks before completely wearing through, and I am now sporting a set of X-Pattern belted tires on Inch Up dish wheels. They are holding up better, but I still want to get some foams, as they are my best bet.

Also, I am buckling down and getting the Natural Ano'd Dual Chamner pipe (Though I never planned on replacing the stock one).

Yes, some of us use FT titanium ball ends, some use on all the places and some (like I) use only on the upper side.

Using on the upper side you remove weight from the better place you can (from the highs of the car). Using too the stock steel ball on the underside prevents from ripping the lower ball end if you brush the boards.

Swap for foams, it's a real advantage, and when you try foams on your car, you shouldn't want to run rubbers.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Oh i just found out my kit included a 3 shoe clutch! this is sweet! i planned on buying one anyway so now i wont have too. only problem is i think i need the stiff clutch springs for my sirio but i only orderd 2 because i was unaware that my kit would have a 3 shoe clutch. do all ntc3 kits come with a 3 shoe clutch now? oh Corse-R and other people who own the sirio will i definitly need the stiff springs for the 3 shoe clutch? i remember you telling me id need them for the sirio once but im not sure.

Nope, mine come with 2 shoes, used the 3 shoes and didn't find any real advantage to (so I stick with the 2 shoes one).

Regarding hard springs for the clutch: is an all recomended upgrade over the softer stock springs, your car gets snappier from the turns and upgrades the acceleration due to the higher rpm launch of the clutch. The hard ones are the cooper ones, not the steel ones.

[Distro]

Originally posted by XXXER
Hey guys, I have been loving my Nitro TC3 for almost 2 weeks now. Thank you Corse-R, Coastal Tony, and everyone else that helped me out with my things. My MT12 runs excellent, and runs without a hiccup. I ran 3 non-stop tanks through it, and I was still able to wrap my hand around the engine head. I am getting about 8 1/2 minutes per tank. I have over 1/2 gallon through it, which is just wild. Just Saturday, when driving my car at work (Hobby shop) I slid sideways into an island in the parking like. I hit the stupid corner (basically a curb) right exactly on the Exhaust stinger, and I caved in my pipe (Posting pics soon!), broke my front shock tower, diff case, gas tank, pivot ball dust cap, and one of the wings on my front bumper. I am replacing the pivot balls also, even though they are not bent, but because they are probably stressed. I see that there are some Factory Team Ti ones, and I was wondering if anyone has used them yet. My stock tires lasted all of 6 tanks before completely wearing through, and I am now sporting a set of X-Pattern belted tires on Inch Up dish wheels. They are holding up better, but I still want to get some foams, as they are my best bet.

Also, I am buckling down and getting the Natural Ano'd Dual Chamner pipe (Though I never planned on replacing the stock one).

Later guys!

-Steve

The TIR pivot balls are suposidly harder then the FT ones, atleast that is what i hear from people who have used both.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by us_matrix
Hi,

I know it has been posted before but hope someone can give me a quick answer.
The stock gear combination is 22/26, 54/50. What is the best Top End/Low end gear combination ?

Depending your engine, track and temp conditions, for some of us, the best is 21/27 with 54/48, others prefeer 20/26 and others use any other imaginable ratio on the car (is a matter of track conditions), from some time to now I started to use 21/26 with 54/48 on my car trying to gain some rpm on the backstraight.

[Way2Fast]

Originally posted by yeeehaw
Hey guys, I plan on racing in Tulsa and go to my highschool parking lot every day.
I have narrowed my engine choices down to:

O.S. .12 cvx,tr,cv
Fantom fr12
Mugen mt 12
sirio roar legal .12

I can get the O.S. engines @ my local hobby shop
I also perfer not to buy off the enternet, I can get the hobby shop to order the parts but I am afraid they will charge me an arm and a leg for them.
So with that said can you help me pick an engine
and wich kit's pipe is better,
and is there any other way of starting an engine with out a ps, starterbox,bump start or should I get friendly with Ebay(starter wise)
Where on the internet can you find the mt12 for cheaper and does Mugen Seiki have a web page???
please help PLEEEEEEEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!


Matt

You can get the MT-12 here: http://64.70.208.72/speedtechrc/147.html

Kinda funny that page says the Sirio Outlaw .12 is 2.1hp! Buahahahaha. I don't think so. Then it goes on to say the Sirio TRP is 1.8hp! HAHAHAHA. Gimme a freakin' break. :D

[Walter]

How does the stock Thunder Tiger .12 compare to the CVR, Picco, Nova, ect
Walter

[Distro]

Originally posted by Walter
How does the stock Thunder Tiger .12 compare to the CVR, Picco, Nova, ect
Walter

It gets eaten alive.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Way2Fast
You can get the MT-12 here: http://64.70.208.72/speedtechrc/147.html

Kinda funny that page says the Sirio Outlaw .12 is 2.1hp! Buahahahaha. I don't think so. Then it goes on to say the Sirio TRP is 1.8hp! HAHAHAHA. Gimme a freakin' break. :D

I am sure Trinity/Picco does have some kind of record regarding the 2.1 and 1.8 hp on the Sirio engines, otherwise, they will have all kind of complaint from everyone, but regarding WHEN and HOW to reach that 1.8/2.1 HP, that I think only SIRIO knows.

However, a lot of ppl tried SIRIO and said it is a great engine for less then $150, I think that is important and ppl care about that way more then 1.8/2.1 HP, 39000/41000 rpm spec.

If I have to pick roar legal engine.....MT-12 and Sirio are the only choices. (close 3rd.....OS 12 TR)

[Distro]

I think my novamega has more top end on it then any other engine i've seen. No one can out pull me past half way down a 130 foot straight. Coming out of a corner though they could, but i'd catch him by the end.

[Way2Fast]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I am sure Trinity/Picco does have some kind of record regarding the 2.1 and 1.8 hp on the Sirio engines, otherwise, they will have all kind of complaint from everyone, but regarding WHEN and HOW to reach that 1.8/2.1 HP, that I think only SIRIO knows.

However, a lot of ppl tried SIRIO and said it is a great engine for less then $150, I think that is important and ppl care about that way more then 1.8/2.1 HP, 39000/41000 rpm spec.

If I have to pick roar legal engine.....MT-12 and Sirio are the only choices. (close 3rd.....OS 12 TR)

Uh...look at the Trinity page. The Sirio ROAR .12 is rated at 1.4hp and the Outlaw .12 at 1.45hp. I don't know where SpeedTech got 1.8 and 2.1hp. Those numbers aren't correct. Not even close. I just thought it was funny, and what's even funnier is that people actually think those numbers on the SpeedTech page are legit. :D ;) :D

[spenzalii]

Uh...look at the Trinity page.

Trinity recently edited those numbers on the site. They were at outrageous levels at one point, even in print if I remember correctly. I suppose they got more than enough calls on it to force them to update those numbers. Either way, it's still a hella strong motor. I want one.

[Pro3/nmt105]

well also now that theyre importing novarossi engines they dont want to make it seem like the sirios are that much better or they wont sell any but the current ratings are the true ratings or very close.

[frank13]

hey guys i need some pistona nd sleeve sets for my ntc3 ,, if any one has some of these around ,,, let m eknow , maybe we can work soemthing out

hpi/novarossi ct12 side exhaust
hpi .15 ss
associated for the rtr gt ,, the first one ,
nova mega .12 rear
mt12 rear exhaust for ttrade

also if anyone has drive cups for the yokomo one way ,, let me know , i need these bad ,, or if someone can point me to the right direction ,

[yeeehaw]

have you checked the buy,Sell,Trade forum??
other than that you can find the destributers for each company and go from there.

Matt:confused:

[Viral_Fusion]

does anyone know weather this is a good engin?: Nitro Star 12R SS and if i got it do i have to cut the shaft for it to fit?

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Viral_Fusion
does anyone know weather this is a good engin?: Nitro Star 12R SS and if i got it do i have to cut the shaft for it to fit?

Cannot be compared to a full .12 RE engines that we usually run. Better to get another engine that may be more powerful.

I say this because all we want more and more from our cars and in a short time surely you want more and more power from it.

Sorry, never used one of and cannot give advice about cutting the crank.

[fastharry]

your not talking about the (joke) 1 hp motor trhat comes with the HPI kits,are you?.....If so forget it...a os 12 cv is faster...

[Rookie Solara]

Honestly, dropping a HPI 12 SS onto a car like NTC3 is like....driving a 360 Ferrari with 13" wheelie.........your choice are MT-12/MR-12, Sirio and or RB-X12......they are all like $150 and below....HPI 12 SS can be like $110 brand new, spend $40 more and get something will last your good 2-3 full season.

About the SIRIO spec......I know that will happen, Speedtechrc got their # directly from Trinity/Sirio, and I even saw their AD all over the RCCA and other magazine stating 1.8 HP /2.1 HP in prints......speedtechrc did nothing wrong, but they MUST update their spec on Sirio now like Trinity........again, I don't see any 12 engine can rev to 39,000/41,000 and still getting 1.8hp and 2.1hp.....definitely NOT NOW, who knows in 2-3 years later.

[KronicRacer]

i also saw that on the the trinty website when it first came out. thats where speedtechRC got their stuff from too.

[ae#1]

hey i know that the rtr NTC3 kits has uni drive in it. What do u guys prefer, the uni drive or universla dogbones, i dont see much of a difference, what else do u suggest.

[Viral_Fusion]

Ok, then do u think i'll be better off with the Trinity P15 .15 Pull Start Standard Exhaust

the thing is I need an engin with pull start bevcause i can't afford a starterbox with my limited budget. So if any of u know an engine that is a pull start and is decently priced and maybe perferably sold at tower could u segest it to me
Thanks

[lipm3]

i droped in a .26 stroker into my tc3 and i love it. it is stronger out of the corners and holeshot than my previous nova .12, i constantly place in the podium with this car. the conversion was so easy i was amazed, i want to try to put together a kit so others can experience the power of the thumper!!! let me know if you are interested the more we can get the less expensive the kit. now i am going to put a .40 into a kyosho 1:8 scale f1 car, i cannot wait!!!

[puma1824]

Originally posted by lipm3
i droped in a .26 stroker into my tc3 and i love it. it is stronger out of the corners and holeshot than my previous nova .12, i constantly place in the podium with this car. the conversion was so easy i was amazed, i want to try to put together a kit so others can experience the power of the thumper!!! let me know if you are interested the more we can get the less expensive the kit. now i am going to put a .40 into a kyosho 1:8 scale f1 car, i cannot wait!!!

I want one!!! Show me how...show me how!

What parts do I need?

-Puma

[Pro3/nmt105]

thats sweet hows the top end though? because i doubt its highend is better than your nova 4 straokes dont have high rpms but have alot of torque

[fuse01]

cool i also wan one

can you give details how to get the engine and also how to fit it in?

[KronicRacer]

:eek: :eek: :eek: a .26!!:eek: :eek: :eek: (drops on floor)

[mugenracer123]

here is my ntc3

[mugenracer123]

.

[thefuzzclub]

Reccommended percentage of nitro gas according to the manual is 10 - 20%. I see 25-30% nitro gas in our LHS. What would be the effect if you use a higher percentage? Just a thought.

[speedy100]

my car has been run for couples months and i am looking for a chassis for replacement of the stock one. there are many different chassis have been launched in the market and which is the best i should purchase ??? some ppl said kfcatory is not good, GH is better. I am wondering if anyone who has tried the AE team factory anodixed chassis ? is team factory the best chassis comparing to GH and kfactory ??? pls help......thanks

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by speedy100
my car has been run for couples months and i am looking for a chassis for replacement of the stock one. there are many different chassis have been launched in the market and which is the best i should purchase ??? some ppl said kfcatory is not good, GH is better. I am wondering if anyone who has tried the AE team factory anodixed chassis ? is team factory the best chassis comparing to GH and kfactory ??? pls help......thanks

I have the stock one and the Factory Team 'hard anodised' one. I expected to get a little stronger chassis, but I was shocked when realized that is the same chassis with different finish.

Weight is the same, material is the same (Aluminium 6061 T6), the main difference is the color of the finish. Not a real 'hop up' part.

Tried two chassis the same day on the same car and the same equipment (only swapped chassis) and the laptime were the same. Any performance upgrade is purely mental.

I gave a test with the K-factory and made the car too stiff and more nervous, didn't liked how it performs, back to the stock chassis. Stock chassis can be ugly, weak, whatever you want, but it's the best solution in compromise of cost, weight and performance.

[NTC3NUT]

I got a GH chassis after my original chassis bent slightly near the motor (common problem I guess). I would recommend the GH to anyone, its inexpensive ($50 vs. $35 for original), includes machined motor mounts, your choice of colors, and it has held up very well. Oh yeah, it's also hard anodized.

[mugenracer123]

i would go with the hard cor one i love mine handles elexent on the track and it is so so so light . it is also titanium:D

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by mugenracer123
i would go with the hard cor one i love mine handles elexent on the track and it is so so so light . it is also titanium:D

those are the parts ive been planing to get. im finally able to get them tonight!

[mugenracer123]

i love my car so so so much here is another pick enjoy

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by mugenracer123
i love my car so so so much here is another pick enjoy

(DROOL):D

[cbr74]

Nice, but I like mine better.. cuz it's mine. :p

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Jan/2003194058023809483127.jpg

I just recently installed the GHH chassis.. good stuff. Now I'm waiting on some K-Factory goodies.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by mugenracer123
.
I noticed that the head on your sirio is in the position it comes in I havent installed mine yet but is it nessecary to rotate the head so that the side that allows air to passover the glowplug facces the front of the car? Have any of you other sirio owners rotated the head? because wouldnt it make the engine overheat if the head didnt allow air over the glowplug?

[speedy100]

Originally posted by cbr74
Nice, but I like mine better.. cuz it's mine. :p

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Jan/2003194058023809483127.jpg

I just recently installed the GHH chassis.. good stuff. Now I'm waiting on some K-Factory goodies.
the best hop up parts of K-factory should be the carbon side brace. I would recommend to all of you. it could provide sufficient protection to the fule tank and make the car more stiff.......before i installed the one pc side brace, i had hit 3 fuel tank but now i have not had the problem......

[speedy100]

Originally posted by NTC3NUT
I got a GH chassis after my original chassis bent slightly near the motor (common problem I guess). I would recommend the GH to anyone, its inexpensive ($50 vs. $35 for original), includes machined motor mounts, your choice of colors, and it has held up very well. Oh yeah, it's also hard anodized.
i encountered the same problem like you. the stock chassis was easily bent at the motor mount position. I am planning to buy the GH as I thought it should be great.......thanks

[cbr74]

the best hop up parts of K-factory should be the carbon side brace.

Yep, the side brace, the bumper brace, and the one piece center bulkhead are what I'm waiting on.

[frank13]

i dont under stand k factory parts

so much money so lil performance,

why pay sooo much money on that stuff, didnt the a-team take a rtr ntc3 with the "crappy" rtr tires and "slow" engine do pretty decent at a national race,, 5th in b main is pretty good to me withthe stock rtr with one speed,, imagine if he had a team kit ,, wow ,, he prob would have been int he a-main

now i am not sayin dont buy hop ups,, but if we pcik and choose what we need, maybe they wont charge us over 55 bucks for a fuel tank ,,, some one needs to talk to these companies that make this stuff, cause it is getting very expensive to race,
sorry just ranting

but i love my ntc3's
even in stock trim ,, well maybe a few lighter wieght drive parts,

frank13

[Pro3/nmt105]

that wasnt really a national race it was a race sponsored by hitec and only like 2 pros were there, but ntc3s do win many national events and most of them are box stock or almost box stock.

[mugenracer123]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
I noticed that the head on your sirio is in the position it comes in I havent installed mine yet but is it nessecary to rotate the head so that the side that allows air to passover the glowplug facces the front of the car? Have any of you other sirio owners rotated the head? because wouldnt it make the engine overheat if the head didnt allow air over the glowplug?

NO IT RELLY DOES NOT MATTER WHAT WAY IT IS IT WONT EFECT IT ENOUGHT TO DO ANY THING THAT DRASTIC

[cbr74]

The K Factory parts are pricey.. unless you have a contact in Hong Kong. :D

[Viral_Fusion]

So??? what do u guys think of the Trinity P15 .15 Pull Start Standard Exhaust?? or should i go with the less priced O.S. .12 CV-X w/Recoil. :confused:

whichone will last longer with proper tuning??? cuz i want one that will last a while before i spend another CAD$250 on an engine

[Way2Fast]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
About the SIRIO spec......I know that will happen, Speedtechrc got their # directly from Trinity/Sirio, and I even saw their AD all over the RCCA and other magazine stating 1.8 HP /2.1 HP in prints......speedtechrc did nothing wrong, but they MUST update their spec on Sirio now like Trinity........again, I don't see any 12 engine can rev to 39,000/41,000 and still getting 1.8hp and 2.1hp.....definitely NOT NOW, who knows in 2-3 years later.

All manufactures seem to fudge the numbers a tad bit, but come on. That is just blatent false advertising. I'm not dissing their motors, but these overblown numbers are silly, and coming from Sirio, they're even sillier. :rolleyes:

Any credible magazine done a dyno test of a Sirio .12 yet? I'd like to see the article. The December RC Nitro mag has the dyno on the .21 (very very impressive), but I want to see some actual data for the .12, not hype.

I see they also have a 1.7hp 7-port .15 listed on the Trinity/Sirio page now. Interesting...

[NTC3NUT]

Has anyone bought a set of these? They are for sale all over Ebay & a few of the online stores. I am putting my NTC3 together for next season, and I normally use the Titanium Racing pillow balls. I saw this complete set closing on Ebay without a bid for $25, and I couldn't resist. I figured, even if they're junk they'll last a few practice sessions, and a Ti-Racing set costs me $40. I got them today and opened them up to check them out. I noticed that the shafts where about a 1/4" shorter than the Ti-Racing pillow balls, no big deal, right? I grabbed my box of new graphite parts, pulled out a set of arms, and went to thread a pillow ball in. They don't fit! The shafts are far too small in diameter, they dropped right into the arm with absolutely no force whatsoever. I have contacted the seller, and am hoping to get a refund. I wanted to let you guys know, watch out for the GPM stuff, at the very least the pillow balls.

[Rookie Solara]

Those pillow balls are for their alloy arms like mine........I realized the same thing and thinking "I got screwed again".....because if I bent or broke one of those pillow balls, I have to order those specific balls from GPM or so.......(the thread are smaller and shorter then the OEM AE pillow balls)

I should not listen to the devil (ppl from HK warned me about the GPM stuff)........now I have to drive the NTC3 very carefull.

http://www.enteract.com/~arsa/ntc3/upperarm/GPMupperarm03.jpg

:mad:

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by NTC3NUT
Has anyone bought a set of these? They are for sale all over Ebay & a few of the online stores. I am putting my NTC3 together for next season, and I normally use the Titanium Racing pillow balls. I saw this complete set closing on Ebay without a bid for $25, and I couldn't resist. I figured, even if they're junk they'll last a few practice sessions, and a Ti-Racing set costs me $40. I got them today and opened them up to check them out. I noticed that the shafts where about a 1/4" shorter than the Ti-Racing pillow balls, no big deal, right? I grabbed my box of new graphite parts, pulled out a set of arms, and went to thread a pillow ball in. They don't fit! The shafts are far too small in diameter, they dropped right into the arm with absolutely no force whatsoever. I have contacted the seller, and am hoping to get a refund. I wanted to let you guys know, watch out for the GPM stuff, at the very least the pillow balls.

if you want titanium go for the AE set 15.99 per set. 32.00 plus tax for titanium not bad i think. never trust gpm best bet is to check their stuff out at the lhs b4 you every buy it online.:(

[NTC3NUT]

Rookie Solara, Thanks for the tip, that makes perfect sense. I had a complete set of almost everything GPM made, bought a complete "show car" off Ebay to tear down for parts. After I got the car I kept all the GH & factory team AE parts (along with the new Jp engine), and promptley sold the rest! Hey, if I can't get a refund would you like the titanium pillow balls cheep?

[Pro3/nmt105]

Im going to go to my lhs later today and I was gonna pick up a countersunk screw or thinner bearing to do the mod to fit my sirio but first I thought Id check if it needed one. I made the clutchnut pretty tight and a little bit of a thread was showing, i left the clutch off because I was just testing and figured it wouldnt affect how it fits well I put the clutch bell and bearings and shims according to the manual and ther was a little overlap of the clutchbell but i tried using all 3 little shims on the screw that holds the clutchbell. The shims were flush with the inner bearing. So i dont think i really need the mod mabey if i just add 1 more shim so the screw dosnt contact the inner bearing at all it will fit perfectly. I dont think it would effect it even if I used no shims because screw only contacts the inner bearing which isnt supposed to rotate anyway. I think i will need a longer screw though because the screws threads only go into the pilot shafts threading 4mm. My only other concern is that the bottom of the clutch bell is about 1.5mm(a little less) away from the flywheel and im just wondering if it will affect clutch contact at all.

[frank13]

has anyone checked these out,, they are 39.99 direct from rd logics,, and they let you buy a second chasis for just 20 bucks,, 40 for a lighter aftermarket chasis at the same or cheaper than stock price,, not bad,,


looks cool ,, wondering if anyone has used one yet ,

[Pro3/nmt105]

the clutchbell spins freely with the 3 shims so I think I will keep it that way but get a longer screw.

[Collari-Tc3]

What sre you guys running for tires at the track. I recently picked up a set of Trc's but have yet to try them. Any good compared to the Nitro Shoes? I know the Shoes are pretty darn consistant but I never saw anybody run them so I'm not too experienced about them. Also, ya think the light weight 2spd is really worthwile? I'm thinkin it would make acceleration a bit more obvious and let the engine really work with some more authority.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Collari-Tc3
What sre you guys running for tires at the track. I recently picked up a set of Trc's but have yet to try them. Any good compared to the Nitro Shoes? I know the Shoes are pretty darn consistant but I never saw anybody run them so I'm not too experienced about them. Also, ya think the light weight 2spd is really worthwile? I'm thinkin it would make acceleration a bit more obvious and let the engine really work with some more authority.

Think on this: As much free rolling and less weight on your transmission, less power needed to rotate and more power transferred to your wheels. On a tight circuit is the way to go and there's no substitute for.

[T-maxxer1013]

What kind of Air Filter is that Rookie Solara? I want one. Also do they help any?

[oN_dUbZ]

hey guys. I just bought a Associated Factory TEAM TC-3 Kit for Pullstart/Side Exhaust. This is my first KIT ever, but I have a HPI Rs4-3 RTR. Anyways, I put in a Fantom '03 .15 Engine in it and a Airtronics MX-3. What kind of option parts should I start putting into my car? ANY kind of suggestions will help me.

Also where can I buy KFactory and GH parts online...my LHS is weak on cars.

[Collari-Tc3]

Sorry, double post:o

[Collari-Tc3]

If you are going to race, foam tires are a must. You can search a couple of these recent pages for some more info on foams. Also, experiment with some of the many ways you can tune your car. The Tc3 is a car that doesn't really "need" any hopups to be race ready or just good for bashing. You can always get the eye candy for it but performance is more likely to decrease rather than increase in some cases. Bearings for the steering are a good thing to get. Less wear on the parts during the long heats, ya know. In my opinion, run the car and see what catagory you would like to "up" in. If your not to fond of say, the gearing, you can always change the ratio to your likings. The only hopups I really even did or are going to do to my car are:Foam Tires, Steering Bearings, Centax Clutch, LightWeight 2sp, and maybe that K-Factory 1 peice center bulk head. MAybe a couple other small things. With a Collari bolted in, the car doesn't want to keep in tact.:p

[speedydave]

Rookie Solara, what engine is that? Modified MT12? I'd like to extend this question out to all you guys...what engines are you running, and how do you like them? I'm really getting the itch to buy one of these babies, and I'd like to get either an OS .12 TR(not turbo), RB X12(again, not turbo), or Mugen MT12(once again...not turbo). How do they compare? I know they're all fast, but what "type" of engine are they(low end, all around, top end)? Thanks.

[herbster]

Originally posted by oN_dUbZ
hey guys. I just bought a Associated Factory TEAM TC-3 Kit for Pullstart/Side Exhaust. This is my first KIT ever, but I have a HPI Rs4-3 RTR. Anyways, I put in a Fantom '03 .15 Engine in it and a Airtronics MX-3. What kind of option parts should I start putting into my car? ANY kind of suggestions will help me.

Also where can I buy KFactory and GH parts online...my LHS is weak on cars.

When driving on smooth tracks i purchased the following parts:
- Tighter spring for servo saver
- One Way diff in front
- Front sway bar
- Rear sway bar (2mm instead of standard)
- 2 chamber pipe
- New k-factory low cg tank (don't have it already, but ordered it)
- Protoform Stratus 2.1 body

After putting loads of hopups into my Impulse Pro this the NTC3 with thse options is so relaxed driving and adjusting. As a Dutchie (country of the Snake) I also bought a 705, but feel more confident with the NTC3. I bought my hopups at The Border Online SHop. Spares and hopups for the NTC3 are difficult to get in Holland, and the rest of Europe. The guys at The Border (http://shop.the-border.nl) promised to have the K-Factory items in stock next week.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by oN_dUbZ
hey guys. I just bought a Associated Factory TEAM TC-3 Kit for Pullstart/Side Exhaust. This is my first KIT ever, but I have a HPI Rs4-3 RTR. Anyways, I put in a Fantom '03 .15 Engine in it and a Airtronics MX-3. What kind of option parts should I start putting into my car? ANY kind of suggestions will help me.

Also where can I buy KFactory and GH parts online...my LHS is weak on cars.
You couldnt have bought the factory team kit because its not made "yet"

[tOrcHed Lh]

uhhh i'm betting he bought a TC3.

herbster,
you're gonna need a NTC3, the N is for nitro...

[oN_dUbZ]

what are you talkin about..its made and I DO HAVE it.

Here's a link for ur proof:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWT84&P=0

[pep88]

What all do you need to change a side exhaust TC3 setup to a rear exhaust? New manifold, pipe, and linkage? You can use the same linkage right? It appears there is no way to use the kit pipe that comes with the side exhaust TC3 in conjuction with a rear manifold. I was thinkin maybe using 2 couplers would work, but now Im thinkin it would make it too long. Anybody have any ideas for that? Or should I just buy the dang pipe?

:confused:

Thanks
pep

[tOrcHed Lh]

on dubz,
yes that's a Associated Nitro TC3 Pull Side Exhaust, much different from an Associated Factory TEAM TC-3 Kit.

pep88,
yea all you would need is a rear exhaust manifold and pipe. if you're converting from side exhaust to rear exhaust you might conisder getting the non pullstart mounts and flyhwheel to lower the engine. the engine mounts and flywheel will lower your center of gravity.

[yeeehaw]

hey guys I talked to the guys at my LHS (Wings-n Things)
they said any engine would do good in this car. The track here is a short track (30mph tops) But when I get my real car I will want to try a race in Oklahoma city. I think their track is alot larger.
so I need a .12 to race at both tracks. NO TURBOS!!!!!
I have decided to get a non pullstart rear exhaust kit.
and narrowed the engines down to
Mugen MT-12
O.S. 12TR
Any other engines would be considered.
I have a 150.00 price range
I am getting foam tires, trinity reciever pack, hard core racing titanium chassis, and upper deck, steering bearings.
any other hopups or do I need to take something off my list?
Please help me out
Matt

[flsurf420]

why are some of the two-speeds different colors like red and orange or blue and green?

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by oN_dUbZ
what are you talkin about..its made and I DO HAVE it.

Here's a link for ur proof:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWT84&P=0
That is the Team kit. The Team and Factory Team kits are very different. associated make most of its kits in 3 as you might call levels.

1. sport kit: sometimes bushings and no hop-ups(not currently available for ntc3)

2. Team kit: some hop-ups (only available version of the ntc3 currently)

3 Factory team: just about every hop-up associated makes for the car (with a electric tc3 pretty much every part on the car is diffrent from the regular kit.) this kit isnt made for the ntc3 yet and associated isnt saying that there ever going to make it they say they might. On my ft gt though the case is different it comes with hop-ups and alot of eye candy but alot of the parts are the same as the regular gt.

[tOrcHed Lh]

Originally posted by flsurf420
why are some of the two-speeds different colors like red and orange or blue and green?

the color simply signifies the number of teeth it has.. it's just an easy way to idenify which ones are which.

[KronicRacer]

Originally posted by oN_dUbZ
what are you talkin about..its made and I DO HAVE it.

Here's a link for ur proof:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWT84&P=0

dude, its the team kit, not the factory team kit. bottom line you still got a kickass car.

[frank13]

so i assume no one had used the rd logic chasis


frank13

[oN_dUbZ]

oh sorry about that guys....i meant to say the TEAM kit not the Factory TEAM kit because I got the NITRO TC-3 version. Anyways happy to join the AE TC-3 Club/community...looks like a KICK ASS car...and with the engine radio and all other things it will be kewl. I will post pics asap. Late

[lipm3]

the good ole red white and blue

[speedydave]

Nice! Looks like a GT-40 body to me. Got a front shot?

[tOrcHed Lh]

i'm ready to buy a rechargeable rx pack for my ntc3. i'm looking at two different packs, the trinity 1/8 onroad flat pack, and the hobbico hydrimax:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLX50&P=7

i know for a fact that the trinity pack will fit, however i'm unsure about the hobbico one. both the packs are the same length (3.3") and height (.72") however the hobbico pack is almost a 1/2" wider than the trinity (hobbico is 1.77" and the trinity is 1.29"). The radio tray on the ntc3 is around 1.75", so theoretically it "should" fit, but i know the chasis' edeges are flared up so i'm not sure...

does anyone know if these hydrimax packs fit?

[Yokomo_King]

I need a Gearing that Crystal PArk Raceway are using for the NTC3
pleasehelp me i really need to know the gearing....