Associated Nitro TC3 Thread v2.0

[flsurf420]

Originally posted by SimonFDR
Is there anyway to make the NTC3 Less Loud?
stop driving it:p

[Collari-Tc3]

Originally posted by Maverick Racer
Umm, you have know idea what your talking about. Laberto Colari is a team driver for Picco. His line of motors are made in the Picco plant but they have some extra touches to them. The old Picco RR is nothing like the XS-12, but the new XP-12 is the exact same motor as the XS-12 Colari. How do I know, because I have ported many of both. I just said the Colari over the Picco because the Picco is much harder to get, becuase has to go through trinity before it gets to any distributer.

SpeedyDave, All the motors that I listed are rear exhaust, so you have two choices for pipes, one of them is for larger larger tracks (dual chamber) and the other is for smaller tracks (stock) To get the Colaris and Piccos to run right, they need to have a longer than normal exhaust system due to the quite extreem amount of exhaust timing.

For my personal setup I have 4 headers and both pipes, all the headers are of differnt leangth, and I tune my exhaust system for every track that I run at. It's hard to say without seeing the track layout, and or the dimensions. If you tell me what motor your running and the overall track size with a general idea of the layout, tigh, flowing, flowing but not a big straight... I can give you an idea of what pipe and size header to run.

Sorry for my miscomprehension of Picco and Collari. But I am afraid that if you approach me with a "you don't know what you are talking about" kind of attitude, I will no further want your opinion on my misleading information. You could have kindly told me about my problem rather than telling me your spiel. After all, everybody makes mistakes.

[NTC3NUT]

Rookie, I already have a few of the K&N air filters, only thing I used last year. You can get them direct from K&N for $15.95 with the chrome lid. I have always used them on my full sized performance cars and they are the best. My solution to the rear toe link was buying longer Lunsford Punisher turnbuckles (not sure on the length, I'll measure the next time they're off), and using captured ball ends w/screws. That way they cant pop off because of the screw head & washer, or compress because of the longer turnbuckle.

[hpi#1]

Originally posted by speedydave
Maybe his crackpipe does...

I doubt CVEC's are even triple chambered.

What the hell is your problem. actually i woudlnt even think of doing crack or any other drugs. and actually there are tri cahmbered pipe, Genius

[mugenracer123]

Originally posted by thefuzzclub
mugenracer,
many thanks for the suggestions, I appreciate a lot. anyway, I decided to change the chassis. what would be your suggestion?
is the factory team chassis more durable? you inputs again.

if you have money to spend go with the hard-core thats what i have. i also have the hard coted black chass. i love both but the hard-core does handle better. but the hard cor costs like $120 the factory team sells for $45 you make the choice. the factoy team black chassis looks really cool!!!!!

[mugenracer123]

here is a pic of the bottom of the hard-core

[hpi#1]

I saw a 3 chambered pipe on towerhobbies that this guy made a link to. cant remebr what it ws by. and at my LHS they had a silver, pretty long 3 chambered pipe form Japan

[SimonFDR]

What makes a NTC3 a NTC3? I still dont get it.... You can mod it, and still call it an NTC3... So tell me What makes a NTC3 a NTC3.

[speedydave]

Originally posted by hpi#1
What the hell is your problem. actually i woudlnt even think of doing crack or any other drugs. and actually there are tri cahmbered pipe, Genius

OK, first off, sorry...apparently I didnt make it obvious enough that I was being sarcastic. Second, I've never, ever, EVER seen a triple chambered pipe before. What pipes are triple chambered?

[frank13]

that is a beautiful chasis,, but i cant afford that much money for a chasis ,, nor do my driving skill permit it ,,lol


is that chasis stiff ,,,,the machining looks very crisp

has anyone heard or used the rdlogics one,, only 40 bucks for one 60 for two ,, just curious ,, thats all the budget allows,


thanks alot
also i am planning on running two engines this year a novamega/mt-12 rear exhaust (combined parts to make one very good working engine ) and a nova/hpi c12 side exhaust ,, will it make a huge difference using either in my car , either speed wise or handling wise ,,,

[lbckevin]

frank,

I have the RD Logics chassis. I love it. It is a stock AE chassis with additional cutouts to save weight. I also has beveled edges where the starter wheel engages. Its great and very sturdy. GO For it. I bought it off ebay for $30. I t comes in 3 colors too. GOld , Grey and Black.


I also got the K Factory Tank. Its $30 too and works great. It really lowers the CG of the sedan. I will post a pic later.

Kevin

[frank13]

def. will get that one then ,, yeah their site is real cheap too,,

40 for the first chasis , and the option to buck a second at half price,, maybe one gold one black ,, lol ,,

cant wait to raec this year ,, car is waiting for the first warm weather run ,

[thefuzzclub]

Originally posted by mugenracer123
here is a pic of the bottom of the hard-core
Your hard core chassis looks really cool. I like the design and it looks lighter, a lot of open areas for air. I ordered the factory team chassis I got it for US$42.00 it will arrived 2-3 weeks from now. you mention about the fail safe venum? How does it look like? How much is it? Sorru for my ignorance but I haven't really seen one. You have a picture? Thanks for your help again.

[hpi#1]

Originally posted by speedydave
OK, first off, sorry...apparently I didnt make it obvious enough that I was being sarcastic. Second, I've never, ever, EVER seen a triple chambered pipe before. What pipes are triple chambered?

well in that case, its okay. ill try to find some on towerhobbies.

[speedydave]

OK then. :)

[jeepinator]

I would just like to add that I started this thread :) :) :)

[speedydave]

Thanks for that pertinent information, jeep.:)

[speedy100]

if my undertsanding is correct, sirio has a new AAL not ABC 5 ports engine which is lanched recently. anyone who has tried this engine in NTC3 ? could you tell me the performance....thanks

[Maverick Racer]

SpeedyDave, I race at delta all the time. If you go there enough you either know who I am either from my HP or for other reasons. I work at a Hobby Shop in Rohnert Park, Jakes Performance Hobbies, the whole JPH crew frequents delta quite often, we are the guys that are known as the yellow shirt guys. I race my NTC3 on the dirt oval during the summer as well.

But anyway, If you go with an MT-12 I would recomend going with the dual chamber pipe with a full leangth header. Use a 20 54 for first and a 25 48 for second. I ran this same gearing at the Hangover race, had a very fast car. If you don't want to buy the dual chamber pipe you can cut off 1/2" off of the header and change the gearing to a 26 for second while using the stock pipe. I would, if I were you, choose to get a mugen MR-12 over the MT-12. Every time that I have been there, except for the hangover race, they use almost the whole oval, and in that case I have allways had some of the fastest laps because of my HP from my motors. The mt-12 will run out of steam to quickly when they have it setup for running most of the oval, and the track is soo flowing that the extra torque tends not to be used.

Colari- sorry if I pissed you off. I have been told that I can be a pr*ck sometimes. I was not trying to be malicious. I guess I can't talk to everone like I do with friends. But anyway, hope you recover.

[Maverick Racer]

Speedy 100-The sirio 5-port uses a AAC construction, that means it has an aluminum, piston and an aluminum sleeve thats chrome plated. There is no perfomance benifit from an aluminum sleeve, but because it's a 5-port it will be faster. Sirio motors in general are very fast motor.

[mugenracer123]

Originally posted by thefuzzclub
Your hard core chassis looks really cool. I like the design and it looks lighter, a lot of open areas for air. I ordered the factory team chassis I got it for US$42.00 it will arrived 2-3 weeks from now. you mention about the fail safe venum? How does it look like? How much is it? Sorru for my ignorance but I haven't really seen one. You have a picture? Thanks for your help again.
thay sell this fail safe a hrizon hobbies.com

Manufacturer: DYNAMITE
Availability: Mar 7 2001
Category:
Miscellaneous Radio Accessories
Part Number: DYN2550
Product Name:
RACE GUARD FAIL-SAFE UNIT
Price: $29.95
This item is in stock.
This item can be gift-wrapped.
Race Guard Fail-Safe Unit

[penggoy]

someone here asking for the shock tower mod check this link
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?threadid=232&perpage=30&pagenumber=49

and also the other guy looking for the venom failsafe check thishttp://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&prod_pcategory=11419&clist=0,9833,11419&uid=466

this failsafe is what ive been using and it works great!it functions the same way as the dynamite failsafe or any other failsafe on the market but cheaper.
hope these help u guys.

[Distro]

The dynamite fail safe is a POS in my opinion so don't buy it. The venom one is cheaper and works better i think.

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by NTC3NUT
Rookie, I already have a few of the K&N air filters, only thing I used last year. You can get them direct from K&N for $15.95 with the chrome lid. I have always used them on my full sized performance cars and they are the best. My solution to the rear toe link was buying longer Lunsford Punisher turnbuckles (not sure on the length, I'll measure the next time they're off), and using captured ball ends w/screws. That way they cant pop off because of the screw head & washer, or compress because of the longer turnbuckle.

Link and Part number please....

Cheers
Bevan

[hpi#1]

[hpi#1]

[hpi#1]

SPEEDY DAVE. I'm not gona be able to find the 3 Chambered pipe from Japan but i found the other one i was talking about. its made by OFNA.

:) ...........

http://www.ofna.com/pipes-10.html

[Collari-Tc3]

Maverick, sorry for my bad tone of attitude. Appology accepted.......I guess I did take it a bit too serious than what I should have. L8r

[speedydave]

HPI, ok ok...lol

Maverick, do you ever run offroad? I've only been running offroad, no onroad stuff at all, but I have seen the Jakes guys at some of the offroad races. How would the RB X12(I know you didn't say you've used one, but if you know someone who has) compare to the MR-12? Also, I know the TR was at the bottom of your list, but for Delta, how does it do? I've pretty much been between the X12, MT12(and MR12), or the TR. Thanks for the info.

[tOrcHed Lh]

i got a xtm failsafe...cheap...small... and does what it's suppose to do.. get the venom if you want, it looks nicer.

[Maverick Racer]

Speedy- I wish I could get a chance to run offroad, but I work saturdays, so it's hard for me to get a chance. Plus the snowbirds are coming up soon so I have to prepare for running carpet, which means stockton is my only source for racing right now.

The RB is a novarossi S2, which is the same thing as the MR-12. The mugen is just about $20 cheaper. The mugens are $149.99 and the RB's are $169.99 last time I checked. The only difference between the MR-12, the S2 and the X-12 is that the MR-12 and the S2 have much stronger crankcase webbing. It's not a big deal but everything helps. The TR was at the bottom of my list because it is more tame than any of the other motors. If you race the TR any time you get on the straights you''ll get dusted. It will be the smothest coming out of the corners though. The TR will feel like an electric car as the others will feel like light switches. I personaly like the light switch feel. It makes it easier to drive the car with the trigger. Whenever the new Sirio sleeve kit comes out for the TR, I think that I will sell a special edition TR with the 6-port kit in. It will be one fast outlaw motor. It's just too bad that they arn't rippers out of the box.

[fuse01]

Has anyone seen or use one of the above mentioned?


ITS GPM, but if it works i may get one. i love one ways. but never in the front..

[speedydave]

Originally posted by Maverick Racer
The TR will feel like an electric car as the others will feel like light switches. I personaly like the light switch feel. It makes it easier to drive the car with the trigger.

So the torque/acceleration of the other engines is pretty controllable? I'm used to the acceleration of offroad cars and trucks, so I'm not too sure how crazy this would be. I assume that since this is 4WD, it'd be relatively easy to handle the snap of the engine...

[tallyrc]

i guess i just got lucky, but i run an OS 12 tr in my tc3, and i smoke... i mean SMOKE 15's every wednesday night! almost everyone i race has illegal motors of some sort in their cars and i have hands down the fastest car there. and i run it fat, like barely 200 degrees, but maybe i got a good one i dunno. those fantom 15's taste like chicken, that's what i'm sayin' get whatever you want, but my os never needs tuning has over 4 gallons through it of 30% and is still tight. like i said maybe i got lucky....

[frank13]

ok ,, i have looked at all the lightwieght driveparts from associated ,, and my question is on the lightwieght clutch housing for the two speed and the one way ,,,why cant i just take my stock parts and drill them on my own and save money ,, my buddy has a lightwieght clutch housing(for the two sped)and its not like it is balanced, --we tested it , and its def not balanced,,

so we took my housing and drilled it out frehand and reinstalled it and guess what ,, no problems at all , ran perfectly fine ,

so next is the two speed one way housing ,,

i owuld suggest just drilling out the parts your self instead of spending your hard earned money on new parts,
hope this helps some one

[Maverick Racer]

Originally posted by tallyrc
i guess i just got lucky, but i run an OS 12 tr in my tc3, and i smoke... i mean SMOKE 15's every wednesday night! almost everyone i race has illegal motors of some sort in their cars and i have hands down the fastest car there. and i run it fat, like barely 200 degrees, but maybe i got a good one i dunno. those fantom 15's taste like chicken, that's what i'm sayin' get whatever you want, but my os never needs tuning has over 4 gallons through it of 30% and is still tight. like i said maybe i got lucky....

You didn't get lucky, fantom .15's are poo. Any .12 race motor will be faster than a sport motor, no mater what size it is. I'm not saying the TR is crap, but aginst a Novarossi based motor it doesn't have a chance.

Speedy- It's hard to explain, the novarossi based motors are very fast, they will accelerate quicker that any dirt car, but will never, when the car is setup right, have that loose all over the track feel. Just imagine, the cars will come out of the corner onto the straight at like 15mph, by the end of the straight they will be at about 45mph. It's real quick.

[speedydave]

Cool. Thanks. I'm kinda tied between the MT12 and X12 now. I have heard of the MR12, but I haven't seen one run, and the MT12's I've seen are VERY fast. I don't mind picking up the dual-chamber pipe...actually, I was planning on it. MT12/dual chamber pipe/full length header would be a good combination for Delta? What about if I went with the X12? Also, you said to run 20/54 25/48 gearing with the MT12...what gearing is stock on the NTC3? I've been into offroad for a little over two years(racing, at least), but, like I said, never onroad. Sorry for so many questions. Thanks! :)

[Viral_Fusion]

I was just wondering what u guys thought of the Serpents, i heard someone saying that they are the fastes cars, but then again it was biasis because it was in the surpent boards LoL.

Anyways how come no one here runs the .12 cv's is there somthing i should know about them before i get one??

Thanks in Advance

[Maverick Racer]

Just to let you know that the MR-12 is what will be replacing the MT-12 when they off it. The MR-12 is the new the MT-12 is the old. So is the X12. The RB has been out for more than a few years. It's not a bad motor just dated. The stock NTC3 gearing is 24/54 1st, and 26/52 or 50 for 2nd. For the RB I would use the a little larger gap between the header and the pipe than what the book recomends for stock. I can't think of what the stock gap is off the top of my head. BTW with the geaing that I sugested you will have to twist the motor a little to get everything to mesh right but it won't do any harm.

Viral, I'm sure that there are people that are running the OS motor, but at $70 you get what you pay for. The Os motor has roughly .56hp while race novarossi's have about 1.25hp. It's a big difference for twice the price. All the top level nitro sedans are nice. The only one that I have not driven is the GS car. I owned a serpent but sold it because it would put me in the poor house every time I broke a part, serpent stuff is very expensive. And being that I work for a Hobby Shop, and I have to deal with serpent USA to get my parts I thought that the guys there were jerks. But that was just my impression. If only Serpent had the support that ASC gives I would still be running my snake, well maby not (my TC3 is been on fire lately)

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Viral_Fusion
I was just wondering what u guys thought of the Serpents, i heard someone saying that they are the fastes cars, but then again it was biasis because it was in the surpent boards LoL.

Anyways how come no one here runs the .12 cv's is there somthing i should know about them before i get one??

Thanks in Advance

Yeah, I cannot agree more from Maverick Racer......Me too, jumping the boat from top notch TC like Serpent PRO to NTC3.......I can tell you this....even the Serpent 705, are still NO match with the NTC3 (as long as you tuned the NTC3 correctly and have above standard driving skill).....we have a guy converting several ppl at our local track, from driving HPI RS4 to Serpent 705 for this coming season (of course, he is the one selling all those 705s).......on the other hand, we have like 5-7 ppl converting from V1RR, MTX-2 and Serpent PRO to NTC3.....and I can't wait to see the look on those Serpent 705 owner when they realized that 705 is no TOY.....NOT to mention, Serpent is NOT the easiest car to setup, I don't believe ppl driving RS4 at the beginning (and they are NOT good at all cause I see some RS4 can be fast and uncatchable)can suddenly figured all the engineering on 705 in like 4-5 months....especially for those ppl that will race with us 4-5 months later, and I can see they will spent lots of $$$ on Hop Ups, tools and foam tires and their 705 will drive like crap.

Not to mention Serpent parts......2-3 times more expensive and 5-20 times more difficult to get......however, their customer support are great....at least they can send me missing parts in like 3 days with no question ask.

But again.......if you want to know what is the fastest TC right now.....definitely NOT 705, I am sure NTC3 is still take the lead, we all drove Serpent and others TC before we switch to NTC3, we all know the difference....

[locklom]

I have a stock NTC3 with a collari .12 engine (half way broken in). What are some useful hop ups I can install?
P.S. I only bash around with my friends ... I don't race.

[sook]

locklom,
What is the reason for hopping up if you do not race? If you only bash, why not leave it stock? It should handle fine stock. Especially with that engine. If your looking to spend more money, just keep stocking up on tires, paint, and bodies.

[Distro]

Originally posted by locklom
I have a stock NTC3 with a collari .12 engine (half way broken in). What are some useful hop ups I can install?
P.S. I only bash around with my friends ... I don't race.

Just get "The Fix" to reinforce the shock towers all you'll need. Also have some spare wheel bearings and pivot balls on hand, they tend to go easy, atleast under my driving..

[Distro]

Originally posted by Viral_Fusion
I was just wondering what u guys thought of the Serpents, i heard someone saying that they are the fastes cars, but then again it was biasis because it was in the surpent boards LoL.

Anyways how come no one here runs the .12 cv's is there somthing i should know about them before i get one??

Thanks in Advance

I ran a serpent for awhile, so did rookie. I ditched it though because of parts being hard to find and the car caused massive glitches and was just un driveable.

[hpi#1]

Originally posted by locklom
I have a stock NTC3 with a collari .12 engine (half way broken in). What are some useful hop ups I can install?
P.S. I only bash around with my friends ... I don't race.

since it's the non-rtr version, you don't really need anything. maybe you could get the woven graphit upper deck and a light-weight chassis. also if you don't, get a racing clutch.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Distro
Just get "The Fix" to reinforce the shock towers all you'll need. Also have some spare wheel bearings and pivot balls on hand, they tend to go easy, atleast under my driving..


Distro..how do you like "the fix"?..........have you run the car with it?

[thefuzzclub]

Originally posted by mugenracer123
thay sell this fail safe a hrizon hobbies.com

Manufacturer: DYNAMITE
Availability: Mar 7 2001
Category:
Miscellaneous Radio Accessories
Part Number: DYN2550
Product Name:
RACE GUARD FAIL-SAFE UNIT
Price: $29.95
This item is in stock.
This item can be gift-wrapped.
Race Guard Fail-Safe Unit
Mugenracer 123,
I will order one this month.
You're so helpful thank you very much.

[thefuzzclub]

Originally posted by penggoy
someone here asking for the shock tower mod check this link
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?threadid=232&perpage=30&pagenumber=49

and also the other guy looking for the venom failsafe check thishttp://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php?file=catalog&prod_pcategory=11419&clist=0,9833,11419&uid=466

this failsafe is what ive been using and it works great!it functions the same way as the dynamite failsafe or any other failsafe on the market but cheaper.
hope these help u guys.
penggoy,
many thanks for your suggestion.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Id use the brass tubing fix shown in the rcteck forum that some one posted on the last pag. If you ask me the fix looks kinda hacked and I dont think what it includes is worth is worth $25 JMO. But i havent driven my ntc3 yet due to the cold weather and my track being closed.

[speedy100]

hello, Has anyone tried the yokomo front one-way ? I am experiencing the diff gear was boken easily after it has been installed. some ppl said it could be resolved by adding the washer. can anyone tell....thxs

[locklom]

thanks guys for all your inputs
Where can I get the Fix from?

[locklom]

thanks guys for all your inputs
Where can I get the Fix from?

[lbckevin]

Speedy,

Associated has just come out with a HD for Heavy Duty One Way unit. It has a bigger one way bearing and bigger outdrive bearings. I purchased it from Ulitimatehobbies.com and it was $46. I used it today and no problems. I have broken both the Yokomo and old Associated. Definatley get the new HD one way.


:cool: :) :o

[Way2Fast]

There's one "The Fix" here on ebay: http://**************/ws/*******************************3107152547&category=19168

I guess you need two packages for both ends of your car. Anyway, if you really feel it's needed, bid.

[kreidel1]

That guy that has "the Fix" for sale also has more avaible if you contact him. I have two myself and run them. I no longer have the adjustable front shock tower like I had in the past when the screws loosened up. They seem to work fine for me.

[thefuzzclub]

Originally posted by mugenracer123
1.you should put a throttle return spring or a fail safe venom makes a nice fail safe. for the throttle return spring if its a slide carb use a rubber band around the carb if its a rotery you should use a spring atached to were the servo linkige ataches to the carb and atach the other end to sonthing near to pull the carb back to close if your radio quits.

2. if you are just bashing i relly does not matter if it is not like relly relly bent!!

i would be worryed more abought your engines crank being streched
mugenracer123,
my ordered chassis will arrive 2 weeks from now. i replaced the front upper transmission case, and straightened my drive shaft with a hammer. obviously, i can't seem to bring it back to its original straight form, but it can still be used. anyway, i still manage to put it back and tried running the car again. for me the speed is still awesome even on a stock .12 motor. but one thing is so noticable. the car is not as steady as before, when i pull the throttle hard, the car strongly veers to the right. when I release it to medium throttle, the car goes a little left. in short, it is now hard to run the car in a straight line. this is what you call tweaked right? i hope my term is correct. one reason i surely know is i have to change the chassis which i will surely do. what about my disaligned drive shaft? does it contribute to the massive turning of the car when I pull the throttle hard? need you thoughts again.

[flsurf420]

Originally posted by SimonFDR
What makes a NTC3 a NTC3? I still dont get it.... You can mod it, and still call it an NTC3... So tell me What makes a NTC3 a NTC3. i wanna know the answer too.

[mugenracer123]

Originally posted by thefuzzclub
mugenracer123,
my ordered chassis will arrive 2 weeks from now. i replaced the front upper transmission case, and straightened my drive shaft with a hammer. obviously, i can't seem to bring it back to its original straight form, but it can still be used. anyway, i still manage to put it back and tried running the car again. for me the speed is still awesome even on a stock .12 motor. but one thing is so noticable. the car is not as steady as before, when i pull the throttle hard, the car strongly veers to the right. when I release it to medium throttle, the car goes a little left. in short, it is now hard to run the car in a straight line. this is what you call tweaked right? i hope my term is correct. one reason i surely know is i have to change the chassis which i will surely do. what about my disaligned drive shaft? does it contribute to the massive turning of the car when I pull the throttle hard? need you thoughts again.

NO THAT WOULD NOT HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH IT THE CHASSIS IS JUST TWEKED SO THAT IS WHY YOUR CAR DOES THAT

[wrxdan]

I kinda made my own "Fix". It was a ton cheaper then the one on Ebay. It just requires:

4-40 threaded rod - $1 at LHS
front chassis brace tubes from the old RC10/RC10T. You can still order them from Tower for like 2 bucks.
4-40 locking nuts - $.60
strong plastic epoxy - 4 bucks

I just did what is similar to the FIX. You need to cut the threaded rod to length, thread and epoxy the rod into the lower case. So now you have 2 studs in each case. Slide the top half of the case on. Bore out the RC10 tubes to fit over the threaded rod, I used a lathe but a drill press will work. Slide the cut tubes over the threaded rod (due to the shape of the under side of the shock towers you may need to file the top of the tube to match the angle of the shock tower). Mount the shock tower, and screw down the 4-40 lock nuts on to the threaded rods. So this does 2 jobs. It holds down the upper case and takes pressure off the shock tower screws. Not sure of well this will work, the car is new for next season. I can post pics later if interested. Word of caution: if you cut the RC10 tube too short then too much stress will be placed on the shock tower when threading the 4-40 nuts on, nothing will stop you from over tightening the nuts. 1 weakness of this is the epoxy, I hope it holds. It's strong stuff but it's only as strong as the plastic it's used in. Let me know what you think.


Edit: I forgot to add that a better solution would be to find a 4-40 screw the has a tapered head and is long enough to pass thru the gear box and shock tower. I could not find a screw long enough but still looking.

[speedy100]

Originally posted by lbckevin
Speedy,

Associated has just come out with a HD for Heavy Duty One Way unit. It has a bigger one way bearing and bigger outdrive bearings. I purchased it from Ulitimatehobbies.com and it was $46. I used it today and no problems. I have broken both the Yokomo and old Associated. Definatley get the new HD one way.


:cool: :) :o
thanks Ib,

however, AE said there is no difference to their new HD one -way and the yokomo one. they use yokomo one-way to repack the AE for a running change. they are the same 6mm bearing. the problem i have had is the 2 diff gear broken, not the one-way. I learnt that some ppl would add the shim to the yokomo oneway to lessen the problem. have you ever heard that before ?

[Pro3/nmt105]

i think this fix is best
http://home.insight.rr.com/engen/images/ntc3_jody_online/MVC-002D_SML.jpg
I just have one question the person who showed this said to use this brass tubing http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXR824&P=7 but I dont need that much and I could get this one http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSU40&P=7 but what does it mean by peggable?

[speedy100]

Originally posted by lbckevin
Speedy,

Associated has just come out with a HD for Heavy Duty One Way unit. It has a bigger one way bearing and bigger outdrive bearings. I purchased it from Ulitimatehobbies.com and it was $46. I used it today and no problems. I have broken both the Yokomo and old Associated. Definatley get the new HD one way.


:cool: :) :o
thanks Ib,

however, AE said there is no difference to their new HD one -way and the yokomo one. they use yokomo one-way to repack the AE for a running change. they are the same 6mm bearing. the problem i have had is the 2 diff gear broken, not the one-way. I learnt that some ppl would add the shim to the yokomo oneway to lessen the problem. have you ever heard that before ?

[speedy100]

Originally posted by lbckevin
Speedy,

Associated has just come out with a HD for Heavy Duty One Way unit. It has a bigger one way bearing and bigger outdrive bearings. I purchased it from Ulitimatehobbies.com and it was $46. I used it today and no problems. I have broken both the Yokomo and old Associated. Definatley get the new HD one way.


:cool: :) :o
thanks Ib,

however, AE said there is no difference to their new HD one -way and the yokomo one. they use yokomo one-way to repack the AE for a running change. they are the same 6mm bearing. the problem i have had is the 2 diff gear broken, not the one-way. I learnt that some ppl would add the shim to the yokomo oneway to lessen the problem. have you ever heard that before ?

[speedydave]

OK guys, what am I missing here? I see what you are doing for this "fix", but I haven't seen anything in here(maybe I'm not looking hard enough) about what the "fix" fixes. It obviously either stiffens up, or beefs up the towers, but, what problem is this trying to fix, and how common is it? Broken shock towers?? I'm trying and trying, but I can't come up with a definite answer.

[Pro3/nmt105]

The problem is that the upper diffcase will srrip out the screw holes that the shock towers are held on by. I dont know how much of a problem this is because im pretty new to the ntc3 and cant run mine intill it gets warm enough to break in the engine. I dont think it happens that often but itll probably happen in a hard crash. The fixes form what ive seenare basically just to clamp down the shock tower and keep it from twindting in a crash that could cause a stripped diff case. Im not absolutley sure of the quality of this information but its what ive learned from reading this forum a few months.

[nmt6789]

Hi, iam looking for a Nitro Tc3. I have looked in the B/S/T forum but I figured I would get more attention here. So would anyone want to trade for a Rc10gt??

[wrxdan]

Here is what my shock tower mod looks like.

[Pro3/nmt105]

looks pretty good can you show us a side view? I think ill stick with the one i posted above because i dont have axcess to a drill press or lathe

[speedydave]

Thanks for clarifying. :)

[kreidel1]

On my car after time all the shock tower screws were starting to get loose and I would have to replace my diff cases....the Fix made it so this didnt happen anymore.

[flsurf420]

i wanna see pictures of every single shot of you ntc3. that way i know how i should set up mine or get an idea. please send me links, pictures, info, or ANYTHING. my e-mail is flsurf420@aol.com if you wanna e-mail me pictures. my car is mostly stock except for the two-speed. thank you

[Twist 2 Go]

Are these decent prices on the engines listed below and given this info, which is the best to get. Thanks

1.) Colari XS-12 n/a
2.) Rossi Pixy Black Available and $249.99
3.) Mugen MR-12 n/a
4.) Mugen MT-12 Available and $149.99
5.) Os TR Available and $169.99


Sirrio roar legal version- $249.00

OS TR12 Turbo- $199.00

[cbr74]

Ace Hobbies has the Sirio and Collari both for $170.

[frank13]

will 34 mm foams fit the ntc3 without mods

i have a great deal pending and need to know ,

[Pro3/nmt105]

Twist 2 go those are all good engines but your prices are off a sirio roar is $150 I think all your prices are retail (and no one sells a retail price)

[Pro3/nmt105]

actually i think the sirios the only one with the wrong price.

[Twist 2 Go]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Twist 2 go those are all good engines but your prices are off a sirio roar is $150 I think all your prices are retail (and no one sells a retail price)

Those are all prices I got from my LHS. I try to buy everything I can local to support them, but I like to "price-check" them every now and again. I'm trying to decide which engine to get for next years race season. (starts in March) What online places are ok to order from? Thanks

[Pro3/nmt105]

well if you get a sirio definitly dont buy it from them because youll be paying $100 extra. I have a sirio in my ntc3 but can break it in till it gets warmer out.

[nefarious79]

Pro3 did you use the SG crank or the threaded crank I am planning the purchase of NTC3 and I plan on putting in a sirio .12 in it. I have raced a lot electric but I had to step it up a little, I think the NTC3 will hit the spot.

[Viral_Fusion]

Me again.
How long have u guys used the sirios? how long do they last before having to get a new sleeve/piston or a carb? Will they out last an os like the .12 cv-rx?

[Twist 2 Go]

The Sirio seems like the popular choice. How sensitive are they to tuning. PITA or forgiving like an OS? Thanks. Where's the best place online to order one?

[Collari-Tc3]

I would actually suggest either a Sirio or better yet, a Collari. Everybody who has them have given positive feedback. I have a new Collari 5-port I'm going to break in when it gets warmer. I had to mod the collet to run it on the ntc3. Considering the Collari crankshaft is smaller than most others, I couldn't use the collet provided in the kit. I just carefully used the dremel to gring the collet to stock specs. Clutchbell spins better than perfect.

Oh and, do any of you guys have any problems with the center driveshaft be out of whack. As in a little wobbly. I can't tell id it is a bent shaft or if it is installed crooked. Thanks

[penggoy]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
i think this fix is best...
I just have one question the person ....

Its the same its just the packaging.Peggable means u can hang its package.Instead of using bronze I used aluminum ones nothing special I just like the aluminum color than bronze.But instead of buying those bulk tubes I only buy 3 pieces in a package.Cost less and I dont need that much anyway.

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by penggoy
Its the same its just the packaging.Peggable means u can hang its package.Instead of using bronze I used aluminum ones nothing special I just like the aluminum color than bronze.But instead of buying those bulk tubes I only buy 3 pieces in a package.Cost less and I dont need that much anyway.

Where can we find this tutorial on how to make our own fix - incl what parts to get??

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by nefarious79
Pro3 did you use the SG crank or the threaded crank I am planning the purchase of NTC3 and I plan on putting in a sirio .12 in it. I have raced a lot electric but I had to step it up a little, I think the NTC3 will hit the spot.
I have the sg shaft in it i found that it dosnt need a mod as long as you use the three washers on the screw that holds the clutchbell on. You need to buy a longer screw cause the stock one dosnt contact the threads of the pilot shaft enough. I dont know about life cause I havent even run it yet, not many people know because they havent worn one out yet because its a pretty new engine.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Well to do the fix I showed you take out the diff screw thats under the hole in the shock tower put the rod in the hole all the way downmark the top then cut it. You the put it back in put a washer on the long screw and put the screw inside the tube and screw it into the hole of the diffcase until its tight. Thats the best I can explain it.

here are the parts:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXR824&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LX2767&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXD999&P=0

[Pro3/nmt105]

I think im gonna use this aluminum tubing when I do it because its lighter

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAFV3&P=7

[wrxdan]

Here is a little closer pic of mine. I didn't go the route of the brass tubing because the top screws can still pull out of the case. I used a 4-40 rod that is epoxyed into the lower case so I won't pull out. I had the black tube left over from my old Rc10T. I used rubber tubing at the top of the RC10 tube becuase the underside of the shock tower is on an angle.

Here is the RC10T part:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2774&P=0

[frank13]

do they fit the ntc3 ,, someone had to try them

need to knoew asap

[NTC3Fan]

K cool, i'll have to make this fix too,just for safety purposes..

[NTC3Fan]

I'm looking for screws that are just slightly wider for the diff case ( the screws that bolt the upper case to the lower case)
Its actualy for my TC3 but i'll prolly use it for the ntc3 too, just so it gives the screw more bite into the composite

[NTC3NUT]

Buy 3mm screws, they'll work.

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by NTC3NUT
Buy 3mm screws, they'll work.

Will these work???
Or whaton Tower must i get then???

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3318&P=7

[lbckevin]

Frank,

The 34 mm foams will not fit. They will rub the rear hub and the rear toe turnbuckle end. 30mm are just fine and offer the added stability over the 26 mm rear.

Good Luck.

[Twist 2 Go]

Has anyone ever tried running 28mm frt and rear? I have a set of 4 but haven't had a chance to run them yet.

[NTC3Fan]

Originally posted by Twist 2 Go
Has anyone ever tried running 28mm frt and rear? I have a set of 4 but haven't had a chance to run them yet.

Wow....
I dont evens know what foam tires to get and where to find it on Tower.....
seems like the only place i can get em to ship here...

[Wyle E. Coyote]

I recently purchased an NTC3 rear exhaust and an O.S. .12 tr slide carb motor. I need to know what the best tuned pipes/headers for my application, would be. If they are different for high end, or low end, please list both. Also, if you happen to have a link, on where to purchase either of them, please list it. Thank you for your help.

[lbckevin]

wlye E,

The best pipe for the rear exhaust is the Associated 2 chamber or dual chamber pipe. It does not load up like the stock single chamber pipe. It comes on natural finish or hard coated (dark Grey) or a cool blue. You can get it at Speedtech.com for $45.

[Twist 2 Go]

Originally posted by Wyle E. Coyote
I recently purchased an NTC3 rear exhaust and an O.S. .12 tr slide carb motor. I need to know what the best tuned pipes/headers for my application, would be. If they are different for high end, or low end, please list both. Also, if you happen to have a link, on where to purchase either of them, please list it. Thank you for your help.

I think the only pipes that will fit are the stock pipe and the new dual-chambered pipe from AE. Someone correct me if I'm wrong

[lbckevin]

Twist,


That is correct...The only ones that fit are the Associated pipes and header. I would go with the dual chamber pipe. Great bottom end and good top end. Its what all the factory guys use.

[Pro3/nmt105]

actually dynamite makes a long hedar that allows use of regular pipes. Maveric Racer has it. Im not sure how it performs though because its so long.

[thefuzzclub]

i used the stock motor of rtr ntc3, i'm on my way to my 4th gallon already. what can you recommend a good and powerful pull start .12 engine as i can't afford a starter box at the moment

[frank13]

is there any way to adapt losi wheels to the ntc3

i hope so ,



frank

[penggoy]

100!!!!

[Rookie Solara]

Wow....100 pages, keep them coming....

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by lbckevin
Frank,

The 34 mm foams will not fit. They will rub the rear hub and the rear toe turnbuckle end. 30mm are just fine and offer the added stability over the 26 mm rear.

Good Luck.

Not exactly true.....all you need to do is add a washer (as long as the washer is thick enough) to offset the clearance of the rear steering hub....all I add was one washer on each size, I don't recall the thickness...

I even use the STS 35mm foams on my NTC3 last season (and I even saw ppl use 35mm foam FRONT and REAR).....

[fuse01]

hi
could you guys lend a hand on how to prepare the nTC3 for rain racing..

i just came back from a wet race over the weekend and did not even clock 1 single lap..


issues:
1) air filter socking wet ( i did not know it suck water)
2) receiver battery flood causing power issue
3) receiver power connector flooded
4) what kind of tires to use? foams wont work.
5) suspension setup? i was using yellow front and red rear.. work well in dry dont know about wet.
6) do you need stablizer sway bars.. in wet?
7) servos? need water proofing?
8) gearing? (using stock setup)


please advise.. it was the first time i ran in the rain... race carried on wet or dry.... many cars died on the 2nd lap ...

[mugenracer123]

Originally posted by cbr74
Nice, but I like mine better.. cuz it's mine. :p

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Jan/2003194058023809483127.jpg

I just recently installed the GHH chassis.. good stuff. Now I'm waiting on some K-Factory goodies.


who makes your blue screw kit?

[fastharry]

I'm sitting here in NJ...getting my HPI rally and Losi xxx KW ready for fri nite racing at barnstormers in NY...and you know what I have playing?



the tc3 nitro movie from Associateds web site....can see it from their home page..Click on tc 3 nitro picture.....and hit the movie button where it says quickplay....then move the movie to the upper part of your screen......

Voila!!!!!!!!...Instant nitro tc3 movie.....24/7 ....
darn,I can't wait to go nitro racing...

[JFawwaz]

Originally posted by fastharry
I'm sitting here in NJ...getting my HPI rally and Losi xxx KW ready for fri nite racing at barnstormers in NY...and you know what I have playing?



the tc3 nitro movie from Associateds web site....can see it from their home page..Click on tc 3 nitro picture.....and hit the movie button where it says quickplay....then move the movie to the upper part of your screen......

Voila!!!!!!!!...Instant nitro tc3 movie.....24/7 ....
darn,I can't wait to go nitro racing...

hey fastharry, what engine do you have in your hpi rally? I remember you from the hpi forums lol.

[cbr74]

who makes your blue screw kit?

I got the blue aluminum hardware from Fastener Express (http://www.fastener-express.com/)

[fastharry]

Originally posted by JFawwaz
hey fastharry, what engine do you have in your hpi rally? I remember you from the hpi forums lol.



I have an electric rally.......I run a P2k in that and my kinwald....

I was thinking of gettinga SNR,but I am sick of HPI's needing so much money to race.....I even have a MT racer,with a box full of hop ups waiting to be put together......I don't even feel like building it..I might just put it on Ebay....along with my rush,and a few other HPI's......

BTW,I saw the Savage up agianst a terra crusher today..I wasn't impressed......NOTHING beats size in a Monster truck.....that terra,with an OS 21 in it was so stable jumping,it was sick....teh savage may better than tmaxx in racing conditions,and even play jumping,but that aint saying much..

I am gonna wait for the BFT fro associated...see how well that BIG truck holds up...

[Maverick Racer]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
actually dynamite makes a long hedar that allows use of regular pipes. Maveric Racer has it. Im not sure how it performs though because its so long.

The dynamite header is poo. I used a novarossi pipe, a picco pipe, a parris pipe, a MIP pipe, nothing worked as well as the stock asc pipe. Most of that has to do with the fact that Cliff Let used to be a motorcycle motor guy. He knows what he's doing with 2-stroke motors.

[JFawwaz]

Originally posted by fastharry
I have an electric rally.......I run a P2k in that and my kinwald....

I was thinking of gettinga SNR,but I am sick of HPI's needing so much money to race.....I even have a MT racer,with a box full of hop ups waiting to be put together......I don't even feel like building it..I might just put it on Ebay....along with my rush,and a few other HPI's......

BTW,I saw the Savage up agianst a terra crusher today..I wasn't impressed......NOTHING beats size in a Monster truck.....that terra,with an OS 21 in it was so stable jumping,it was sick....teh savage may better than tmaxx in racing conditions,and even play jumping,but that aint saying much..

I am gonna wait for the BFT fro associated...see how well that BIG truck holds up...

yeah i was sick of my type SS so i raised it, locked out 2nd gear, put my old bashing wheels on it and went rallying. NOW THAT WAS FUN. It's a good jumper too. It went about 5ft high for about 8 ft off a 2 foot jump. Never broke a thing. The off road chassis really sucks onroad but it's a winner off road. It's got a fantom fr15 in there just to let you know.

I like my savage:p The only thing i hate about it is my hyper .21 engine that i put on it. The pullstart keeps breaking, and it's so hard to tune. I think ill put and OS RG in there once this engine dies from 1. Excessive air leaks or 2. vehicular engine-slaughter. I bought the savage when i found out that the BFT is coming out in april. I just couldnt wait that long to get into MT's, but ill still be getting the BFT when it comes out. (if it ever comes out)

In the meantime, i have my eyes set on the mugen MST-1. You should check it out too:D

Oh and to keep on track with this thread:
Damn i wish i got the NTC3. MY friend just got one and it runs circles around my SS. It handles like it's on rails. Too bad it cant do 360's like my SS can every time i turn.:rolleyes:

-joey

[flsurf420]

http://cgi5.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?SellYourItem&item=3109028431

i would buy it but i need to sign up and dont have a credit card.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by fuse01
issues:
1) air filter socking wet ( i did not know it suck water)
2) receiver battery flood causing power issue
3) receiver power connector flooded
4) what kind of tires to use? foams wont work.
5) suspension setup? i was using yellow front and red rear.. work well in dry dont know about wet.
6) do you need stablizer sway bars.. in wet?
7) servos? need water proofing?
8) gearing? (using stock setup)



First.....that is NOT a good idea to run on RAIN, period. However, if you have a Tamiya Catalog around, take a look, they have 2 full pages of direction of how to prepare your Nitro/elect car on RAIN.....Tamiya Race their elect car on raining, but never mentioned about Nitro.

1) air filter socking wet ( i did not know it suck water), I didn't neither, but when you have opening on the body, rain will come directly to the intake.....I am not surprise some water will get in.

2) receiver battery flood causing power issue......use TAMIYA black balloon, I use that for receiver pack and RECEIVER.....work like a charm.

3) receiver power connector flooded - same as above.

4) what kind of tires to use? foams wont work. - always rubber, and must be treaded rubber.........X-pattern may be your choice.

5) suspension setup? i was using yellow front and red rear.. work well in dry dont know about wet. - since the trackion are LOW, the softer the suspension it is, the better it handle, in this case....sway bar is useless (sway bar is best use on high trackion condition)....try lighter oil, more holes damper and softer springs.

6) do you need stablizer sway bars.. in wet? - see above...and that is just my opinion.

7) servos? need water proofing? - If you have some decent servo like Futaba JR or KO, they should have water seal around the case.....however, if I have to race in water, I will use HOT GLUE or rubber cement to seal any crack or joins as tight as possible.......afterall, those hot glue or rubber cement can be RUB off by your finger when the race are finished.

8) gearing? (using stock setup)......trackion is what you need...I don't see super high speed engine or Tall gear will have any advantage.....

[Pro3/nmt105]

I dont think too much of the savage. I thought it was gonna be crappy from the start because hpi makes it. Today I got the march rcca and read the colum next to the review about the designers and started laughing because the designers are the guy who designed the NMT and pro 3 and the guy who designed the rush! These cars all suck and were designed horribly The nmt is the most fragile truck ive ever seen, the rushes chassi will bend at the sight of a jump and the pro 3 requires you to put a couple hundred dollars into it just to be competetive with a stock tc3. With these guys as the designers I wouldnt be suprised if the savage snapped in half.

[JFawwaz]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
I dont think too much of the savage. I thought it was gonna be crappy from the start because hpi makes it. Today I got the march rcca and read the colum next to the review about the designers and started laughing because the designers are the guy who designed the NMT and pro 3 and the guy who designed the rush! These cars all suck and were designed horribly The nmt is the most fragile truck ive ever seen, the rushes chassi will bend at the sight of a jump and the pro 3 requires you to put a couple hundred dollars into it just to be competetive with a stock tc3. With these guys as the designers I wouldnt be suprised if the savage snapped in half.

you must really hate your user name eh? yeah, i laughed at the interview too.
Anyway, lots of people have been happy with the savage. Its very durable and the handling is excellent but the engine sucks:mad:

[Pro3/nmt105]

You got that right but I cant change it unless rcca switches it and I dont wanna register again because I just became a senior member. I picked the name cause it was my hpi forum name and the forum was closed a few days and i needed help so i didnt bother making up a name cause i thought i would never be back. Then once it closed completly and I already hated my HPIs i came back here. If I could change it id pick AE racer or somthing like that.

[NTC3NUT]

Hi guys, I posted a deal on a MT-12 with a few FT options on the "For Sale" forum. I'm going to run my JP next season so I won't be needing it. Thanks.

[Distro]

I ran my car once on a wet track with grooved 35 shore tires, was fun. There wasn't a whole lot of traction though, but it was drivable.

[flsurf420]

ok back on the ntc3 topic. what is everyone running?

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by flsurf420
ok back on the ntc3 topic. what is everyone running?

What exactly do you mean "Running"....? Engine? Tires? Suspension......etc? Please speicific so we can post our spec....

[mugenracer123]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
I dont think too much of the savage. I thought it was gonna be crappy from the start because hpi makes it. Today I got the march rcca and read the colum next to the review about the designers and started laughing because the designers are the guy who designed the NMT and pro 3 and the guy who designed the rush! These cars all suck and were designed horribly The nmt is the most fragile truck ive ever seen, the rushes chassi will bend at the sight of a jump and the pro 3 requires you to put a couple hundred dollars into it just to be competetive with a stock tc3. With these guys as the designers I wouldnt be suprised if the savage snapped in half.


well i do agree that the hpi cars are **** and do not deserve to be sold but the mt is not week. i have a friend that has one and we made some movies of it jumping off a 13 foot high roof and off a 5 foot jump so i would not say that

[jjl]

I assume AE is going to come out with a FT NTC3. Anyone have any idea if they are, and if so, when?

[Viral_Fusion]

Originally posted by jjl
I assume AE is going to come out with a FT NTC3. Anyone have any idea if they are, and if so, when?


Thats the million dollar question

[Viral_Fusion]

They'll likely come out with it when the NTC3 sales are starting to drop and will relese the factory to "re-vamp" the sales

[hpi#1]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
I dont think too much of the savage. I thought it was gonna be crappy from the start because hpi makes it. Today I got the march rcca and read the colum next to the review about the designers and started laughing because the designers are the guy who designed the NMT and pro 3 and the guy who designed the rush! These cars all suck and were designed horribly The nmt is the most fragile truck ive ever seen, the rushes chassi will bend at the sight of a jump and the pro 3 requires you to put a couple hundred dollars into it just to be competetive with a stock tc3. With these guys as the designers I wouldnt be suprised if the savage snapped in half.

i saw the hpi savage run in some videos: www.trilordy.com

didn't look week at all, espacially what they put their cars through in their videos. it actually looked quite impressive. if i had the extra dough, i mite even buy one. these guys put there truck.cars through heck, check it out.
NOTE: its best if you right click on the video and press save target as

[Pro3/nmt105]

Im not saying the savage is bad but just knowing that those guys designed it makes me not want to buy it. It is a pretty cool truck though but its typical of hpi that it has no adjustability.

[Pro3/nmt105]

In my ntc3 im running a Sirio roar version and a graphirte upperdeck. I have some light weight tranny mods but theres no point of putting them in till I drive it stock.

[Twist 2 Go]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
In my ntc3 im running a Sirio roar version and a graphirte upperdeck. I have some light weight tranny mods but theres no point of putting them in till I drive it stock.

Did you get the SG version? I think that will be my next engine. I found it at Tower Hobbies for $149.00. I hate to buy mail order but my LHS wants $249 for the same engine.

[turbochrgdRICE]

Hey guys...I'm looking to get a nitro rally car but i dont want HPI's super nitro rally so i'm considering converting the NTC3 into a rally car...If someone has already converted a NTC3 into a rally can you please tell me how it is? I'm thinking about the NTC3 over HPI's rtr3 for rallying because i've read that the NTC3 is better for racing so if i decided to race i can just lower the NTC3 to street spec. Well can someone please tell me how the NTC3 is for rallying or if you havent converted one, if you could help me with the parts because i dont know much about NTC3's...i've owned other nitro r/cs (rs4 2, tmaxx, rs43 type ss, inferno 7.5) so i'm not a complete n00b to nitros but i am a n00b to NTC3s!!

thnx for any help

:D :cool: :D :cool: :D :cool: :D

[turbochrgdRICE]

oops..double post...mah bad :p

[waileun]

Hi Guys,
I have just joined in the NTC3 reign. I have a question, what is the purpose of the outlet on top of the fuel tank? Should I connect the tube from the stinger to this outlet?

Also, is the 3PK a good controller for the NTC3? I have yet to buy the charger. What is a good brand? As for the engine, I have already gotten the OS TR turbo.

Wai Leun

[cbr74]

Should I connect the tube from the stinger to this outlet?

Yes

[Viral_Fusion]

Hey just wanted to let u guys know. When i was looking around on TowerHobbies's page i saw this:

Ok this one was found on their "Winter Bargin Sale" for 99.99 (states save $50)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=1&I=LR1225&P=3

and this one is the one listed on their regular cataluge and the price is 91.59
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUU27&P=0

There are others I saw in the "didn't get it for christmas Sale". So the moral of the story is... Check out the prices before u party and click add to cart button.

BTW has anyone noticed that a few engines prices have been falling mysterously?? look it selling for 88.75 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAGD0&P=0

and this engine used to be 99.99 now its 96.13, the price have been falling a few cents a day Weird!! but hey i an't complaining.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBZ17&P=0


Just wanted to let u peeps know so I'll save u a ew bucks LoL

[Viral_Fusion]

Oh and BTW- is there much proformace difference between pull start engines and non-PS??? is it that noticable to scarafice the convinence of a PS??

Thanks

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by waileun
Hi Guys,
I have just joined in the NTC3 reign. I have a question, what is the purpose of the outlet on top of the fuel tank? Should I connect the tube from the stinger to this outlet?

Also, is the 3PK a good controller for the NTC3? I have yet to buy the charger. What is a good brand? As for the engine, I have already gotten the OS TR turbo.

Wai Leun

The outlet on top of the fuel tank is a receiver of the BACK PRESSURE created by your tuned pipe....there is a lot of science and mechanic on that issue, so I rather not to explain, but YES...you MUST connect your pressure line to that 90 degree pressure fitting nipple on top of the fuel tank.

3PK is definitely a good radio, top of the line from Futaba (gun style), more pricey but you won't need to upgrade your radio for at least 5-10 years (my last Futaba radio lasted me 12 years untill I got the 3PK, and the old one is still working)...a little heavier then normal, but the big screen and the looks are well worth it, not to mention all the function on the 3PK are way more then what you really need. If you pick HRS version, you must use digital servos - that means more money, I settled with PCM version on my NTC3.

Picking the radio has nothing to do with the car (NTC3)...I can use the old school JR Beat2 stick radio on my NTC3....your skill and the car setting is the key, RADIO function takes like 5-10% of the whole thing the most.

Your engine....good choice, but get several more TURBO plug just in case, they (all turbo engine) intended to die much faster then regular plug.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Viral_Fusion
Oh and BTW- is there much proformace difference between pull start engines and non-PS??? is it that noticable to scarafice the convinence of a PS??

Thanks

Hard to answer that question cause they are 2 different animals.

Pull-start - for rookie, only side exhaust (no where near Rear Exhaust engine performance), slower engine (usually), you save money on starter box, but after X amount number of pulling that sting, it will break, and you have to fix.....sometimes difficult to start your engine with pull start, but you can build a strong RIGHT or LEFT arm.

Non-pull start - You can choose almost all kind of engine, but REAR EXHAUST engines are what you really need, 100% noticable performance differences over pull-start. You can choose side exhaust or rear exhaust. You need to spend money on good starter box (that is a must, but you can buy used one for $50) One more thing to carry - starter box. You need to charge the battery on starter box unless you use Gel Cell powered starter box. With the help of starter box, non-pull engine usually start right up...unlike pull-start engine.

Final answer, if buying a starter box and carrying one is NOT a hugh problem to you......get the Non-pull start version and engine like Sirio/MT-12...etc and you will be happy for at least.........1-2 season (we all know we like to get new stuff, right..?)

[Collari-Tc3]

I recently did the tank mod but only used a straight fuel nipple. I am guessing that this won't make any difference, after all, it is still a fuel nipple. What do you guys think?

Getting the M8 pretty dang soon I am hoping. Should have excellent control over the ultimate touring car........the NTC3:D

Man, all these awesome forums I've been using really helped me..... rctech.net
radiocontrolzone.com
rc-x.org
And ofcourse........competitionx.com

Pretty good stuff

Collari

[Corse-R]

Due to I'm going to marry on the next months, I'll decided to take a break on R/C and sell all my cars and equipment. So I plan to sell my race unit NTC3 (had another for practice identical).

You can find the information here (http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12290)

Sorry if this is a little off-topic, but seemed that would be of interest of some (enclosed some photos to credit the condition of the car).

[turbochrgdRICE]

Originally posted by turbochrgdRICE
Hey guys...I'm looking to get a nitro rally car but i dont want HPI's super nitro rally so i'm considering converting the NTC3 into a rally car...If someone has already converted a NTC3 into a rally can you please tell me how it is? I'm thinking about the NTC3 over HPI's rtr3 for rallying because i've read that the NTC3 is better for racing so if i decided to race i can just lower the NTC3 to street spec. Well can someone please tell me how the NTC3 is for rallying or if you havent converted one, if you could help me with the parts because i dont know much about NTC3's...i've owned other nitro r/cs (rs4 2, tmaxx, rs43 type ss, inferno 7.5) so i'm not a complete n00b to nitros but i am a n00b to NTC3s!!

thnx for any help

:D :cool: :D :cool: :D :cool: :D


anyone?? PLZ...wit a cherry on top :D

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by Twist 2 Go
Did you get the SG version? I think that will be my next engine. I found it at Tower Hobbies for $149.00. I hate to buy mail order but my LHS wants $249 for the same engine.
yea I have the Sg shaft fits with no mods just use the 3 washers on the screw that holds the clutch bell on. I got it at tower for that price I saw it for $140 somewhere else but i get free shipping on tower so I use them.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by Corse-R
Due to I'm going to marry on the next months, I'll decided to take a break on R/C and sell all my cars and equipment. So I plan to sell my race unit NTC3 (had another for practice identical).

You can find the information here (http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12290)

Sorry if this is a little off-topic, but seemed that would be of interest of some (enclosed some photos to credit the condition of the car).
Oh that sucks I hate to see your ntc3 go id buy it but I just got a ntc3 and definitly dont need another now. Are you selling your mtx-3 too? Id at least keep one car.

[Viral_Fusion]

Hey Twist 2 Go

For the engine $249, my LHS sells it for that price but thats cuz i live in Canada. I was wondering if the $249 your talking about is CAD or USD? and the TowerHobbies site's 149 is USD

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Oh that sucks I hate to see your ntc3 go id buy it but I just got a ntc3 and definitly dont need another now. Are you selling your mtx-3 too? Id at least keep one car.

MTX3 isn't really mine, is from a LHS that I've made an arrangement to race with this car for the national races and maybe any EFRA GP, talked with them about my new situation and seems that he offered me running some of those races, but with a part of the inital arrangement that I've made.

Depending on results, maybe the MTX3 after the season can be mine, by the moment pertains to the LHS.

[Twist 2 Go]

Originally posted by Viral_Fusion
Hey Twist 2 Go

For the engine $249, my LHS sells it for that price but thats cuz i live in Canada. I was wondering if the $249 your talking about is CAD or USD? and the TowerHobbies site's 149 is USD

No, I comparing apples to apples. They are both usd's.

[Viral_Fusion]

Originally posted by Twist 2 Go
No, I comparing apples to apples. They are both usd's.

Holy Crap!! Thats a hundred USD MORE!! u should go there and tell them to shove it up their a$$. I can't belive that they are planning to make so much money one 1 engine thats like a 41% profit margine At least.

[Twist 2 Go]

Yeah, I knew they were charging list price on smaller parts such as tires, springs, bodies, etc. but was trying to price-ck them on larger items. The problem is they are the only hobby shop in the area unless you count Hobbytown, which is just as bad. Kinda stinks

[waileun]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
The outlet on top of the fuel tank is a receiver of the BACK PRESSURE created by your tuned pipe....there is a lot of science and mechanic on that issue, so I rather not to explain, but YES...you MUST connect your pressure line to that 90 degree pressure fitting nipple on top of the fuel tank.

3PK is definitely a good radio, top of the line from Futaba (gun style), more pricey but you won't need to upgrade your radio for at least 5-10 years (my last Futaba radio lasted me 12 years untill I got the 3PK, and the old one is still working)...a little heavier then normal, but the big screen and the looks are well worth it, not to mention all the function on the 3PK are way more then what you really need. If you pick HRS version, you must use digital servos - that means more money, I settled with PCM version on my NTC3.

Picking the radio has nothing to do with the car (NTC3)...I can use the old school JR Beat2 stick radio on my NTC3....your skill and the car setting is the key, RADIO function takes like 5-10% of the whole thing the most.

Your engine....good choice, but get several more TURBO plug just in case, they (all turbo engine) intended to die much faster then regular plug.

Hi Solara,

thanks for the info. I will definitely go for the 3pk. Over here the 3PK comes with HRs receiver and 9541 servos.
As for the fuel tank, I forgot to mention to you that there is a total of 3 outlets on it. Anyway, I will connect the tube from the stinger to the cap outlet as recommended by you.

[nitro#1]

hey guys...i just recently got my starter box and for some reason i have a hard time starting my car... i got it to start once but that was it....any of you know the reason...i noticed that my flywheel is a little worn... could that be it....i have it fully charged...what can it be...all suggestions will help...
thanx in advance
nitro#1

[Collari-Tc3]

nitro#1

Is your engine hydrolocking? Are your needles set? You couldn't possibly be trying to start your engine backward(I've seen it done before), could you? New glowplug? Not primed good enough? Nice and clean airfilter?

These are just some suggestions........

Collari

[Collari-Tc3]

Are you guys having any trouble with the center driveshaft. Mine seems to wobble a little bit with some RPM's. I am not sure if it is bent or if it is installed a little crooked. I think it is installed crooked but I am not quite sure. I don't feel like ripping the thing apart yet, ya know......but I don't want the thing tearing my steering rack to nothing as it falls off when I'm doing 55-60. lol
Any suggestions are welcome..........

Collari

[Guld]

Is it me, or does the new Ofna LD3 looks too familiar?

http://www.ofna.com/images/ld3-leftside-BIG.jpg

http://www.ofna.com/images/LD3-bottom-BIG.jpg

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by waileun
Hi Solara,

thanks for the info. I will definitely go for the 3pk. Over here the 3PK comes with HRs receiver and 9541 servos.
As for the fuel tank, I forgot to mention to you that there is a total of 3 outlets on it. Anyway, I will connect the tube from the stinger to the cap outlet as recommended by you.

3PK came in 3 forms, FM, PCM and HRS.......the differences are the receiver (again, FM, PCM and HRS).....no matter which one you pick, the 3PK should be one of the best radio for RC car by far.

About the tank, the one that you are talking about is the OLD pressure fitting inlet location which was causing all kind of foaming/bubbling problem before, and that's why AE revised the new tank and get the turnable pressure fitting like the one you have, DO NOT plug the pressure line to the old location (the inlet at the middle) that pressure fitting inlet SHOULD BE plugged by AE already if you are using the new designed tank.

[spenzalii]

Yep, it looks a lot like a copy of the beloved TC3. The RTR looks to come with the 2 speed standard, which should be nice. I haven't a clue how they'll work a rear exhaust in there as such. If the adjustable mounts they have will suit either, the matter would be the header/pipe for a RE. Unless they're gonna crib that from AE as well. It looks promising, and if it's in striking range (pricewise) as the TC3 is, maybe people will look at Ofna for more than big trucks and buggies. Time will tell.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Guld
Is it me, or does the new Ofna LD3 looks too familiar?


No....you are not mistaking, and I had told many ppl before, after the release of the NTC3 and ppl saw its power, they will FOLLOW.

OFNA started now.....and I can see Kyosho or even SERPENT will follow (just my guest).

Belt drive are too long of a history (15 year plus)....and I think they will follow the NTC3 and have their changes...

Like all the designer always said "there is nothing wrong of COPYING....as long as you are better then the one that you are copying from....."

[Viral_Fusion]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Guld
[B]Is it me, or does the new Ofna LD3 looks too familiar?
QUOTE]

Cool it comes with a fail safe.

Looks like the recoil's alittle close to the fuel tank, might eventually put a hole there, like some people have had their pipe grind a hole in their tank on the TC3s... Now that i've said that the pipe one the ld3 looks close too lol
http://ofna.com/images/LD3-fueltank-BIG.jpg

[Guld]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
No....you are not mistaking, and I had told many ppl before, after the release of the NTC3 and ppl saw its power, they will FOLLOW.

OFNA started now.....and I can see Kyosho or even SERPENT will follow (just my guest).

Belt drive are too long of a history (15 year plus)....and I think they will follow the NTC3 and have their changes...

Like all the designer always said "there is nothing wrong of COPYING....as long as you are better then the one that you are copying from....."

IMO, notwithstanding arrangement/balance issues, it should now be evident that shaft driven drivetrains are more efficient than those using belts.

On a different note, I wonder how OFNA has been able to get away with such a copy. In fact, there are so many identical engineering design choices that would infringe with AE design... I guess not investing on intellectual property protection might turn out to be more expensive on the long run.

[Viral_Fusion]

I'll bet that if u ask them about the pipe and recoil problem they'll say its a bonus feature feature that they forgot to tell u.... it comes with "duel hole creating fuel discharge system" for faster drainage of fuel after a days worth of racing, and also pours fuel to lub the track so cars following will have traction problems.


You gotta love the site of your brand new LD3 spewing its blood all over the track. :D

[spenzalii]

In fact, there are so many identical engineering design choices that would infringe with AE design

Let's not get carried away. If that were the case, there would only be one car, one r/c, one truck (how many TMaxx clones can you count?), one computer, you get the picture. How many touring cars look/act/are similar in concept and design that it looks like it copied something else? And it's not like shaft drive hasn't been around in nitro for a minute (see all those Kyosho's or Tamiya kits from afore). The design is much more competetive now. So, welcome the revolution, and see who comes out on top.

[kreidel1]

How much noticable power is there between the OS TR and a MT 12? Does the new short stroke MT12 have as much torque as the old one? I guess what I am asking is it worth upraging from my OSTR to a MT12? I have my car handling very well and feel I could use more power...but if its not noticable then I dont want to spend the money on something else.

[Guld]

Originally posted by spenzalii
Let's not get carried away. If that were the case, there would only be one car, one r/c, one truck (how many TMaxx clones can you count?), one computer, you get the picture. How many touring cars look/act/are similar in concept and design that it looks like it copied something else? And it's not like shaft drive hasn't been around in nitro for a minute (see all those Kyosho's or Tamiya kits from afore). The design is much more competetive now. So, welcome the revolution, and see who comes out on top.

It is not the conventional and well know individual elements that matter. Their combination and location, however, might be patentably significant (particularly if it yields unexpected results).

[spenzalii]

There are only so many places you can put the wheels, engine, tank and arms in ANY given vehicle. As far as suspension geometry and design, who says if it works for you that you then own it? It's not as if AE created anything 'New' and thus needs a copyright for it. They just made a highly successful design that others can and will follow (or copy). Can you inagine how much money Traxxas would have if that line of thought carried over?

[Twist 2 Go]

Originally posted by spenzalii
It's not as if AE created anything 'New' and thus needs a copyright for it. They just made a highly successful design that others can and will follow (or copy). Can you inagine how much money Traxxas would have if that line of thought carried over?

It would have cost TRAXXAS dearly!!!! I was a traxxas-sponsored off-road racer in the early 90's and when they debuted their "new" 2wd buggy, ( the TRX-1, best I can remember) it was being raced with an Associated Stealth trans. They had index cards cut and taped over the trans so no-one could see what it was. On the production kits, they had a design VERY MUCH LIKE the stealth. And we would actually upgrade the trans with aftermarket parts for the stealth( LW gears and LOSI Hydradrive.)
So this kind of stuff has always been done. It's nothing new. Kinda says something for AE's Engineering,IMO!!!!!!!!!

[turbochrgdRICE]

Originally posted by turbochrgdRICE
anyone?? PLZ...wit a cherry on top :D

i guess that i'll juss buy a NTC3 RTR and convert it to rally on mah own :o

unless...someone wants to help me with it... :D

[offroadcrazy01]

Is any body going to be racing in kzspeedway for there up and coming race 200mm car only lots of tc3 I bet if you want to see the track go to www.kzspeedway.com

[JFawwaz]

Originally posted by turbochrgdRICE
i guess that i'll juss buy a NTC3 RTR and convert it to rally on mah own :o

unless...someone wants to help me with it... :D

what's this:

http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=18_195&products_id=3959

[fastharry]

ye know,thats a good point..what the heck is that?...

[fastharry]

well,I took that stock mumber(asc2031) and put in towre hobbeis site..and it came up aa a nitro tc3..

so it must be something Ace is packaging....cause its way more money than a std kit..

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by spenzalii
Let's not get carried away. If that were the case, there would only be one car, one r/c, one truck (how many TMaxx clones can you count?), one computer, you get the picture. How many touring cars look/act/are similar in concept and design that it looks like it copied something else? And it's not like shaft drive hasn't been around in nitro for a minute (see all those Kyosho's or Tamiya kits from afore). The design is much more competetive now. So, welcome the revolution, and see who comes out on top.

I cannot agree more........again, COPYCAT is definitely NOT the problem in this world.....you should ask "how come all the pressenger cars are all 4 doors?" How come they all use WHEELS..? How come they all use ENGINE...? Isn't that considered COPYCAT from the original design...? Yes....but they are all far more advance then the original steam engine like 100 plus years ago.......

After driving belt cars for like 14 years......its finally the time to switch to SHAFT car.......but again, AE is not the first one, AE is the BEST one to use the shaft technology, when I was a kit, I drove Tamiya HOTSHOT and somthing like that, I believed they are one of the pioneer on RC shaft driven cars......however, back then, technology is not as advance as now....Motor or ENGINE were not able to get 1.5HP @ 39,000 rpm or 45,000 rpm motors....and thats why Tamiya need to add the EXTRA gears to generate the TORQUE that the motor/engine cannot produces. On the other hand, got more torque but top speed will be reduce.

Take a look at NTC3 design now.....power directly distrubuted to all 4 wheels with 2 set of GEARS only (the 2-speed trans and the front/rear diff)......that is almost the absolute limits of RC car.....the only other methrod I can think of that can get faster speed is like PAN-CAR.....on 4WD, it is almost like the HPI Micro, engine gears connected to the spurs that mounted on the the rear wheel........and use belt to power the FRONT....however, that is a design for something light weight just like PAN-CARs (remembered those old days of Hirobo, Kyosho Fantom and AYK period with 4WD 1/12 pan-car)...........

Time has change, and copying is no longer an issue, as long as you are BETTER then the original.

Does anyone saw the NEW upcoming Mustang Coupe....? Totally 60s looking design with a little modification outside but 10 TIMES faster/safer and better handling car then the old 'tang.

Regarding COPYRIGHT........welcome to America and welcome to cooperate AMERICA as well, both parties have plenty of lawyers, and I bet a small amount of money, a contract and some profit sharing from OFNA (or something NO ONE knows beside them) OFNA can reproduce a car jsut like NTC3 and AE will not be unhappy about that. Toyota and Chevy did that on Corolla and Cavalier.....So does Toyota and Pontiac (Matrix and Vabe?)

If everyone can recall..........the release date of NTC3 are almost 3 years after TC3 was release (there are almost NO different between the 2), and I heard someone said is because AE refused to pay SOMEONE and they ended up being sue by the other parties (Tamiya TG series).....

[sook]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
when I was a kit, I drove Tamiya

LOL.....so you were assembled and not hatched like the rest of us?:D

Too funny, but I agree with you both.

[spenzalii]

Toyota and Chevy did that on Corolla and Cavalier
Actually that was the corolla and the prizm. GM did the cavalier all by itself, and even now, it's a piece of crap. Good point, though.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by spenzalii
Actually that was the corolla and the prizm. GM did the cavalier all by itself, and even now, it's a piece of crap. Good point, though.

Yeah, you got it right....Toyota sold the blueprint of Corolla to Chevy and Chevy called it Geo Prizm, and in Toyota Japan (and in Japan) Chevy Cavalier is called Toyota Cavalier and sold under TOYOTA badge in Japan......believe it or not.

I didn't realized that untill about 3 years ago on some IMPORT car show.....there is a Cavalier with some ugly mod and ended up 3rd place un TOYOTA catagory....and the MC said because Cavalier were sold in Japan under TOYOTA brand, that's why they called Cavalier is "PART" of Import..........that was one BIG JOKE of car industry.

[waileun]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
3PK came in 3 forms, FM, PCM and HRS.......the differences are the receiver (again, FM, PCM and HRS).....no matter which one you pick, the 3PK should be one of the best radio for RC car by far.

About the tank, the one that you are talking about is the OLD pressure fitting inlet location which was causing all kind of foaming/bubbling problem before, and that's why AE revised the new tank and get the turnable pressure fitting like the one you have, DO NOT plug the pressure line to the old location (the inlet at the middle) that pressure fitting inlet SHOULD BE plugged by AE already if you are using the new designed tank.

Got it! luckily you advise me, if not I would have followed the installation guide blindly. Ok, I will fit the tube to the top of the fuel tank cap. :)
Thanks.

[ae#1]

HEY GUYS!!

Im thinkin on getting a new engine in my ntc3 soon but im not so sure what i wanna get, my two choices are the RB C12 #1700-000123. Here is a link
http://www.rbproducts.com/rbww/engines2.11/index.html
The reason I like the rb its got pull start, side exaust so i dont get that crap rear exuasht pipe lol. and sg crankshaft.
My other option is the O.S. 12 CV-R (p) with slide carb
http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg2045.html
what do u think is my better choice, or wut else do u think is better for the NTC3 thanx

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
If everyone can recall..........the release date of NTC3 are almost 3 years after TC3 was release (there are almost NO different between the 2), and I heard someone said is because AE refused to pay SOMEONE and they ended up being sue by the other parties (Tamiya TG series).....
Are you saying there is almost no diffrence between the tc3 and ntc3? because they share only like one part, other than that they are almost completely diffrent. I guess the shaft drive design is similar though. How do you guys think the ld3 will compare to the ntc3? I doubt itll be as competetive, to me it looks like it was designed to be a rtr and ive never seen an ofna being run in a national race, as far as I know theyre more of a basher brand.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by ae#1
HEY GUYS!!

Im thinkin on getting a new engine in my ntc3 soon but im not so sure what i wanna get, my two choices are the RB C12 #1700-000123. Here is a link
http://www.rbproducts.com/rbww/engines2.11/index.html
The reason I like the rb its got pull start, side exaust so i dont get that crap rear exuasht pipe lol. and sg crankshaft.
My other option is the O.S. 12 CV-R (p) with slide carb
http://www.osengines.com/engines/osmg2045.html
what do u think is my better choice, or wut else do u think is better for the NTC3 thanx
I suggest you save up the extra money and get a starter box. Then you can buy a better rear exaust engine for cheaper than a pullstart engine. I converted my cv-rx to non pullstart when I got my ft gt because non p/s engines have a lower cg. Its great having a starter box engine starts in 5 seconds at most, no pulling or engine trouble. If the engine dosnt start then you know somthings wrong. Plus better engines are cheaper than p/s engines. I bought my cv-rx for $180 a while ago and now that I have a starter box I bought a sirio for my ntc3 for $150 and it like twice as powerful.

[spenzalii]

I doubt itll be as competetive, to me it looks like it was designed to be a rtr

Don't be so sure. I used to have their OB4 electric when they still made them, which had quite a bit of bang for it's buck. Even though it was RTR, it was all graphite and aluminum, p/b suspension and the works: almost loke a Pro2 for less. And I did quite well with it on the track. Now, at the time, Ofna didn't have a team, weren't interested in sponsering many (if any) drivers and were known more for their supply of tools and accessories than their products that they import. These days, however, things are changing a bit. They are having success in the MT races, and a few people are starting to run their buggies at events (even if the majority of the runs/wins go to Kyosho). For those that have actually tried their product, they find themselves quite surprised and pleased. They're like the sleeper company in this industry, producing (importing) good quality product that, with just a bit of tweaking or just in the right hands, will land you in the winner's circle of the a-main.

All this is to say that the LD3 may just surprise quite a few people given a chance. Will it get as popular as the TC3? Never in a million years. But if the components are right and/or it gets just enough aftermarket support, it will sneak up on a few poeple for sure. They're will be more than a few people that will look at teh two of them and choose the Ofna just by virtue of the 2 speed standard in the RTR. Who knows the specs on the Pro yet. And Ofna is known for throwing in a bunch of stuff (tools, glow ignitors, bags, etc) with their products. So I'll just wait and see and not write them off just because they're Ofna (someone else designed it, and they're just selling it over here)

[lookot]

hey guys...i just recently got my starter box and for some reason i have a hard time starting my car... i got it to start once but that was it....any of you know the reason...i noticed that my flywheel is a little worn... could that be it....i have it fully charged...what can it be...all suggestions will help...
thanx in advance
nitro#1

Are you sure sarter is spining in the right direction?

[Yokomo_King]

Try using a Better motor like a Stock motor 27 turn. or insted of using a 2- 6cell battery use a car battery or the hobby battery the big 12v

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by spenzalii
Don't be so sure. I used to have their OB4 electric when they still made them, which had quite a bit of bang for it's buck. Even though it was RTR, it was all graphite and aluminum, p/b suspension and the works: almost loke a Pro2 for less. And I did quite well with it on the track. Now, at the time, Ofna didn't have a team, weren't interested in sponsering many (if any) drivers and were known more for their supply of tools and accessories than their products that they import. These days, however, things are changing a bit. They are having success in the MT races, and a few people are starting to run their buggies at events (even if the majority of the runs/wins go to Kyosho). For those that have actually tried their product, they find themselves quite surprised and pleased. They're like the sleeper company in this industry, producing (importing) good quality product that, with just a bit of tweaking or just in the right hands, will land you in the winner's circle of the a-main.

All this is to say that the LD3 may just surprise quite a few people given a chance. Will it get as popular as the TC3? Never in a million years. But if the components are right and/or it gets just enough aftermarket support, it will sneak up on a few poeple for sure. They're will be more than a few people that will look at teh two of them and choose the Ofna just by virtue of the 2 speed standard in the RTR. Who knows the specs on the Pro yet. And Ofna is known for throwing in a bunch of stuff (tools, glow ignitors, bags, etc) with their products. So I'll just wait and see and not write them off just because they're Ofna (someone else designed it, and they're just selling it over here)
true, but from what I heard on another site its less race ready and it comes with gear diffs rather than ball diffs. I wounder how itll perform compared to the ntc3? probably very similar because the designs very similar. The proversion will probably include a graphite upperdeck and mabey aluminum shocks.

[flsurf420]

Originally posted by lookot
hey guys...i just recently got my starter box and for some reason i have a hard time starting my car... i got it to start once but that was it....any of you know the reason...i noticed that my flywheel is a little worn... could that be it....i have it fully charged...what can it be...all suggestions will help...
thanx in advance
nitro#1

Are you sure sarter is spining in the right direction?

make sure the wheel isnt hitting the chassis, cuz it doesn't come set-up for a ntc3.

[spenzalii]

Last time I checked, most Nitro machines used gear diffs in the first place; that was one of the more interesting choices AE made with the NTC3. I don't think the RTR will be totally race ready out the box, and neither is the NTC3 RTR (it will need that 2 speed). As far as the Pro version, I can't even say, but I don't see why it wouldn't be

[Viral_Fusion]

Hey there its me.

I didn't order a TC3, after thinking long and hard i figured i was more of an offroad person. I ordered the Kyosho Inferno MP 7.5, it costed me $825 USD!!!!, but anyways i would like to thank everyone that had helped me before by putting up with all my questions

Bye

[waileun]

Hi All,

I have gotten this OS TR turbo engine for the NTC3. I'm just wondering if it makes any difference to using the dual chamber or the stock pipe. Will using the stock pipe harm the engine? Also, it seem like there is no way to mount other brands pipe on the NTC3, is this a right assumption?

Wai Leun

[Collari-Tc3]

waileun,

There is a difference between the stock and dual chamber. The dual chamber will increase the engines powerband but ruin the cool "motocross" sound of the stock pipe. You can always cut a 1/4 inch off of the header and port the flange on the inside of it to increase top end a little bit. I am still using the stock pipe and a ported and cut manifold myself. And no, the stock pipe won't harm the engine. It really depends on the track or what you are using your ntc3 for(bashing/racing).

Yes, you are almost right, you can't use a "normal" exhaust an the ntc3 unless you use a super long header in the right shape.(which isn't too good IMO) But I was thinking if you had the Picco 12 "Picco Exhaust" engine you could use a normal exhaust with a normal header. It has a rear exhaust outlet in the place where a side exhaust outlet goes. Just a thought.

[Distro]

I'm glad i don't have to use the standardized pipes anymore. They have always been too weak, the AE pipe is freakin solid.

[speedydave]

I saw someone at the track yesterday use a funky manifold and the stock AE pipe with his T-Maxx's Collari engine. I didn't see how it ran though.

[Wyle E. Coyote]

I'm trying to install my O.S. .12 tr motor into my NTC3, and have a few questions.

1. When I tighten the bolt to the end of the crankshaft shouldn't it hold the flywheel tight against the motor?

2. Should I remove, what looks like, the motor's flywheel?
http://www.toddgilman.com/pictures/board_pix/os_pic1.jpg
http://www.toddgilman.com/pictures/board_pix/os_pic2.jpg

3. If it should hold the flywheel snug, but isn't, should I cut 1/16"-1/8" off the crank?

4. If I do that, what precautions should I take?

As usual, any information would be GREATLY appreciated.

[kreidel1]

Yes...take the adapter off the crank and by the looks you will need to cut your crank to the the clutch nut end on.

[Pro3/nmt105]

Like it says in the directions you need to cut the crank if you use a standerd crank im pretty sure its in the manual or on a seperate sheet that came with the kit. I dont know if the kit includes it but you put a cutoff nut on the crank and then cut right in front of it. The crank should be alot shorter than you have it. But read the directions before you cut it.

[nitro#1]

Thanks to all that replied to my problem...unfortunately i got fed up and bought the ae starter box. a bit pricey but works wonders for me. starts right up...not sure why the ofna didnt work for me... anywayz thanks again...

peace
nitro#1

[sook]

Actually, on Ofna's website, you could find a new starter box that looks identical to AE's starter box. (silver):rolleyes:

[nitro#1]

yeah i saw that...isnt it around the same price more or less.i thought to myself might as well get the ae one since its made for it.

Peace
nitro#1

[sook]

Yes, you have made a good choice. Thus the rolling eyes at the end of my last thread.

[Striker]

What is the AE part number for the NTC3 starter box? I'd like to order one threw my LHS. Oh, how much do they go for? Thanks.

[Canada]

Originally posted by Wyle E. Coyote
I'm trying to install my O.S. .12 tr motor into my NTC3, and have a few questions.

1. When I tighten the bolt to the end of the crankshaft shouldn't it hold the flywheel tight against the motor?
yes
2. Should I remove, what looks like, the motor's flywheel?
http://www.toddgilman.com/pictures/board_pix/os_pic1.jpg
http://www.toddgilman.com/pictures/board_pix/os_pic2.jpg yes it is to keep the bearings clean but you need to take it off

3. If it should hold the flywheel snug, but isn't, should I cut 1/16"-1/8" off the crank? I grinded off the crank until the clutch nut kept the flywheel from wobbling

4. If I do that, what precautions should I take? safety glasses??

As usual, any information would be GREATLY appreciated. 1 yes
2 yes it is their to keep the bearings clean you do not need it
3 it should hold the crank snug I grinded mine off until the clutch nut held the flywheel snug
4 maybe safety glasses:p

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Wyle E. Coyote
I'm trying to install my O.S. .12 tr motor into my NTC3, and have a few questions.

1. When I tighten the bolt to the end of the crankshaft shouldn't it hold the flywheel tight against the motor?

2. Should I remove, what looks like, the motor's flywheel?
http://www.toddgilman.com/pictures/board_pix/os_pic1.jpg
http://www.toddgilman.com/pictures/board_pix/os_pic2.jpg

3. If it should hold the flywheel snug, but isn't, should I cut 1/16"-1/8" off the crank?

4. If I do that, what precautions should I take?

As usual, any information would be GREATLY appreciated.

I can tell you this.....SPEND the $50 and get the Dremel power package, it came with some very usefull tools inside and I cannot live with that for all my RC works, that $50 is well worth it.

And the cutting tool from dremal will cut your crank nicely in NO TIME and have a professional finish.....and do not use hand saw.

[sook]

Originally posted by Striker
What is the AE part number for the NTC3 starter box? I'd like to order one threw my LHS. Oh, how much do they go for? Thanks.

http://www.teamassociated.com/newprod/1750_starterbox.htm

I believe the part number is 1750. Good luck.

[spenzalii]

Now this looks kool: Dynamite's rear exhaust header which allows the use of a standard pipe with a rear exhaust motor. Anybody tried it yet?

[Rookie Solara]

From what I know, ppl usually CUT or shorten the header/manifold in order to increase performance on high-end (I always thought it was the low-end untill someone pointed out to me that I was wrong)....with this extra long (good 1" or 1.5" longer) manifold, I am not sure it will help on any performance, you might have HUGH low-end for launching but below normal top end speed......

The only benifit I can see is you can use your existing pipe. And I believed that is the reason why AE designed their own famous Polish Sausage looking pipe/dual chamber.....

[nitro#1]

striker you could order it through ulimatehobbies.com for 69.99. i paid to much for mine cuz im not patient

nitro#1

[spenzalii]

Interesting theory there. I wonder how it would work on something without a lot of low end or midrange punch, or how detrimental it would be to a Sirio

[Wyle E. Coyote]

I just wanted to say thank you to everyone that helped me out. This is my first experience with a Nitro car, so I am a bit nerveous. I can't wait to get this thing up and running.

[Tl01drifter]

i am thinking about getting a tc3. this will be my first nitro. what are the best hop ups to go with first?? and thanks in advance

[Distro]

Someone already said the dynamite pipe was trash.. Its back a few pages, myself i'll just stick to the AE pipe combo, works great and is alot tougher then the standard pipes on other cars.

[Rookie Solara]

That header is garbage or not, I don't really know, and I think the ppl that used that can let us know.....but by the NITRO theory about the header.....usually SHORTER header will give you better TOP-END....and with the right length of the header, that will give you a all around performance, but this header is just WAY too long for me, and my guess is NOT a good upgrade for NTC3.

About 103 pages in NTC3 thread, I believed almost 99% of ppl here are using AE dual chamber or at least the stock one and had no problem with that.

[Way2Fast]

Originally posted by Tl01drifter
i am thinking about getting a tc3. this will be my first nitro. what are the best hop ups to go with first?? and thanks in advance

Read this first - it points out the few little "must do's" and has good tips for building the kit.

http://www.deleos.com/NTC3/NTC3_Tips.htm

[Way2Fast]

For those of you racing rubber tires, has anyone tried the Trinity "Death Grip" tire cleaner and traction restorer? I use Simple Green cuz it's cheap and works great to both clean and restore stickyness and it's bio-degradable and even smells fab but wondered if anyone thought this pricey Trinity stuff was better? If a few people think it is, I might give it a try...

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/t/tric4065.jpg

[Rookie Solara]

I would like someone to tell me what is the DIAMETER of those brass tubbing that you guys use to reinforce the front/rear shock towers......? I was at LHS yesterday and they came in 50 different sizes....is that 3/16, 5/8, 3/4 or others...?

Also, the 2 long screws.....how long should that be..? 1" or 1.5"..? And you guys think 3mm metric or 4-40 standard..?

Thanks........

[sook]

Rookie Solara,
I did not even use the brass tubing and it has held up fine. I found some 1.5" 4-40 screws made by DART in the Dubro section at my LHS. Make sure to pick up some washers that fit above the screw heads, I used 3mm washers and it worked out well. Just make sure to remove the two lower case screws and tighten the new 1.5" screws securely without overtightening and it should last. Good luck.

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by sook
Rookie Solara,
I did not even use the brass tubing and it has held up fine. I found some 1.5" 4-40 screws made by DART in the Dubro section at my LHS. Make sure to pick up some washers that fit above the screw heads, I used 3mm washers and it worked out well. Just make sure to remove the two lower case screws and tighten the new 1.5" screws securely without overtightening and it should last. Good luck.

Thanks for the advise, but here is the problem, without the TUBBING, there is no PUSH DOWN onto the diff case, isn't it? The tube that I need to place in between the case and shock tower is not just act as a SUPPORT, it also needed that to prevent the case coming up......

[sook]

If you truely require the tube in between the case and the tower, make sure you take the upper case half with you. I would just take one of the size tubes that you have found and see if it fits in the intended slot that is grooved into the side of the upper diff case. Good luck.

[waileun]

Originally posted by Collari-Tc3
waileun,

There is a difference between the stock and dual chamber. The dual chamber will increase the engines powerband but ruin the cool "motocross" sound of the stock pipe. You can always cut a 1/4 inch off of the header and port the flange on the inside of it to increase top end a little bit. I am still using the stock pipe and a ported and cut manifold myself. And no, the stock pipe won't harm the engine. It really depends on the track or what you are using your ntc3 for(bashing/racing).

Yes, you are almost right, you can't use a "normal" exhaust an the ntc3 unless you use a super long header in the right shape.(which isn't too good IMO) But I was thinking if you had the Picco 12 "Picco Exhaust" engine you could use a normal exhaust with a normal header. It has a rear exhaust outlet in the place where a side exhaust outlet goes. Just a thought.

Hi Collari,

Thanks for the advice. I'm new to nitro. So I guess I will run the stock for one two weeks and then experiment with your suggestions... Thanks.

Wai Leun

[Walter]

What is the part number for the Trinity Picco collet needed for the TC3 flywheel. I want to put my Picco.12 in but the crank is a differant diameter than the stock collet in the kit.
Thanks,
Walter

[show2ime]

Wasup all. I have a new K factory centax for sale. Never used for ntc3. The first 95.00 gets it. i accept paypal. Thx.

[mugenracer123]

Originally posted by show2ime
Wasup all. I have a new K factory centax for sale. Never used for ntc3. The first 95.00 gets it. i accept paypal. Thx. thats my cintax i sold it to you on ebay

[show2ime]

The flywheel is too small for my project Ntc3 so I am selling it. Ck it out.

[show2ime]

My trash talking friiends made me bild this monster. Tired of losing to .21 powered cars, I built the baddest one out there, a NTC3 .21 powered monster. This is a Beast of a car...It smokes my super nitro and I have an EVO5 MS .21 on my super. I started this like a month ago from a new, stock team NTC3. With minimal mods can't believe the speed and stability of this shaft driven car. I have a NTC3 before with a sirio .12 and thought it was fast. Afer seeing my friends bragging about their fusions and about 80mph, rs4's with .21 conversions, I decided to do this to the best car out IMO, the ntc3. I knew the shaft drive and many gearing possibilities, this would be a fast car. And oh boy, is it. I will keep you all posted on my progress. My super will do 87mph now. It will do 100 with a few more mods, but I drag race it so I am not pressed. So i know mt tc3 is close to where I want to be if I can beat my super. (my supers speed is radar verified for all you non believers). Here are my mods so far. And mods in the works.

.21 OS VZR TURBO (further modded also, around 3hp now) I chose OS because their engines are rock solid and easy to tune. This is their newest on road .21. Probably just hitting stores. 2.5 hp stock. In stock form, it is every bit as good as my evo5.
bid dog heavy duty cvd's
AE lightweight clutchbell, 2 speed 1 way, 2 speed housing
ae factorty team drive shaft(hardcore shaft, cups, brake block on way)
Hardened outdrives
Yokomo heavy duty one way
Solid rear diff( delrin diffs and spurs coming)
teflon bearings on entire car
3 shoe ae clutch(modified centax is here, need to install. G2 power centax with K factory clutchbell for NTC3. Both push type centaxes)
Serpent lightweight flywheel by wolfpack
Wolfpack mounts being made for NTC3(mounts i have work fine though
Mugen .21 buggy header
AE single chamber pipe. (better than dual chamber so far. I use both)
Wolfpack serpent wheel adapters. I use Ellegi 1/8 scale fronts all the way around. I also use trc and jaco nitro shoes. Jaco 30mm are close to serpents diamater. Need that for the top end.
21-27, 52-48 spurs. Mesha was tricky but further mods to chassis did the trick
HPI racing gas tank. Short tank, solved header clearance problems. Ae tank too long.
Aluminum heavy duty tie rods
alum. hexes
K@n filter when I run it. A little better than the motorsaver on it now I think. I use k@n on my race car and bike so why not.
Thats it for now. I will post further updates.
P>S any 10th scale owners wanna race for pink slips???

[ae#1]

hey guys its me.

I got a new GPM turbo pipe for my ntc3, have u guys heard of it and what do u think of it. THANKS ALOT!!!!!:)

[show2ime]

looks like a cvec to me. Don't know anything about gpm...

[Striker]

My club is about to get a transponder system. My question is, where do all of you like to mount the transponder on your NTC3? Thanks a lot.

[Maverick Racer]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
That header is garbage or not, I don't really know, and I think the ppl that used that can let us know.....but by the NITRO theory about the header.....usually SHORTER header will give you better TOP-END....and with the right length of the header, that will give you a all around performance, but this header is just WAY too long for me, and my guess is NOT a good upgrade for NTC3.

About 103 pages in NTC3 thread, I believed almost 99% of ppl here are using AE dual chamber or at least the stock one and had no problem with that.

It's not the header leangth that changes your power band it's the leangth between the exhaust port and the convergence cone on the pipe that makes the difference. You could cut the header or the pipe, the header is just easier to cut.

I was the one that tried the dynamite header. I bought it the day that it came in the shop. There is nothing wrong with the header, just the design is very poor. What makes the ASC pipe system the best out there is the fact that is has a very long divergence cone. You allways want a constantly expanding pipe from the exhaust port to the belly of the pipe. The fact that the dynamite pipe is a constant diameter from the exhaust port to the pipe is a bad thing, that's why it will never work as well as the ASC pipe.

[puma1824]

Originally posted by show2ime
Wasup all. I have a new K factory centax for sale. Never used for ntc3. The first 95.00 gets it. i accept paypal. Thx.

I'll probably take it please PM me ASAP.

thanks,
Puma

[ae#1]

ya i know it looks like a CVEC but its not everyone is saying that, here is a link if u wantt to look, inside is really weird in has like a pin, so can anyone help me out thanks

link:: http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=5829

[Way2Fast]

Originally posted by show2ime
My trash talking friiends made me bild this monster...

Nice man! Did you shut your friends up or what? :D

Do you only do drag racing? I never really understood drag racing sedans. Why not drag race something like this??

[Way2Fast]

Here ya go. These guys run .21's in their dragsters. Track record is a top speed of 77.65 mph with an E.T. of 1.749. Not too shabby. :D

http://www.nrcda.com/

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by Maverick Racer
It's not the header leangth that changes your power band it's the leangth between the exhaust port and the convergence cone on the pipe that makes the difference. You could cut the header or the pipe, the header is just easier to cut.


Thanks Maverick Racer.........I learn one more thing today.

[show2ime]

I know about the ieda. We have been to darlington, sc a few times and to the world's, which were her in Clinton. I have a RC10 that we raced then, it only went 55mph in 132ft. Which is fast by any means. But, the touring cars are just different. More of a challege IMO. Kinda like street racing. You pull up in a 30ft dragster or pro stock, yeah right. A stock car is better is all. if I was just dragging on the circuit, I would use a rail.

[spenzalii]

There is nothing wrong with the header, just the design is very poor.

So the header could work, and I could swap the pipe for, say, a REX or that new Fantom Works pipe, right?

[derekbond]

Show2, how did you get the vzr to fit in the TC3 as I was
told by AE it wouldn't. Props on your work.

Another question. How did your friends Schumacher Fusion
turn out? He was trying to get it to run better/quicker. I recall that the two of you raced quite often when
you had the S .12 in the TC3.

I am looking to purchase a new Nitro and wanted to go with
the TC3 or Fusion.

I too have the need for speed.

[waileun]

Originally posted by Tl01drifter
i am thinking about getting a tc3. this will be my first nitro. what are the best hop ups to go with first?? and thanks in advance

The following items will be useful to you:
The front blade roll bar part(1715)
Rear Roll Bar part(3960)
4-40 Alu Blue Anodized part(6937)

[waileun]

Originally posted by ae#1
hey guys its me.

I got a new GPM turbo pipe for my ntc3, have u guys heard of it and what do u think of it. THANKS ALOT!!!!!:)

It seems to me that the NTC3 with a side exhaust is the best bet for anyone for want to use non-AE pipes. Right?

[show2ime]

The VZr wasn't hard to fit. Just had to get some adj. engine mounts, dremel the chassis some to get the mesh correct and really, thats about it. The ae .12 header is a little small in diameter, so i had to get the mugen .21 buggy header and the HPI racing tank. It looks like it came on the car. get a thin flywheel because the thicker ones hit the brake disk. I have a serpent flywheel from wolfpack. It does the trick. Or, you could use the .21 sg shaft flywheel he sells, I also cut out some more room for the starter wheel. The slot os dang near too small anyway with a stock engine.
As far as the fusion, don't waste your money. The 3 speed isn't adjustable. It doesn't start to run until 3rd gear kicks in. And you cannot put another engine on the car without some serious mos. The belt runs under the motor and it uses that drill start system. It also doesn't have a cutout on the chassis to use a starter box. U could use a pull start .21, but not a good, high hp one. If the 3 speed was adj, maybe. I may get a sirio .15 and see how that does as well. Almost 2hp so they say. But mos def get the tc3. I was whipping fusions to the 160ft mark with the sirio .12. I think the >15 wikll keep u out there. Get a .21 and i know u will....

[derekbond]

Show2, thanks for the advice on the Fusion. What is the quickest and fastest(mph) .15 that I can buy? Would the .15 fit without any problems?

Also, what mods should I get as far as clutch, gearing,pipe....
I want to build this right the first time.

Don't want to loose to any fusions!!

[show2ime]

Well, as far as engines, the new sirio is a small block .15 so you won't have to customize anything. It will fit right in. I would get that engine, a dual chamber ae pipe, the lightweight drivetrain is a must have. Also a 3 shoe clutch with the hard springs. gotta have that rocket like takeoff. If you want, get a centax for more adjustability. gearing would be 21/27-54/48 if it was me. But I have all the pinions and spurs and I test diff combos. Mesh is tricky on some but they work. I love that combo listed though. Plus the .15 will have more than enough power to pull them. The outlaw .12 is a beast so I know that .15 will be warp speed fast. Problem solved. No Fusions to worry about. Or dang near anything else. The tc3's gearing options and ultra efficient shaft drive puts the power down like nobody's business. As far as MPH, that would vary on conditions. Use this gearing calculator-http://www.rcracing.com/Page.cfm?InfoID=1100. It should give you a close estimate.

[derekbond]

Thanks again Show2.

So that I understand this correctly the Fusions .21 Pro Big Block is rated at 2.1 BHP @31,000 RPM.

The Si .15 is a 1.7hp and 39,500 RPM resulting in a quicker and higher reving motor.

Is this correct? Help me out!

[show2ime]

The higher the rpm, it will lose some bottom end, but scream up top. The lower the rpm, the engine will lose some top end. And the thunder tiger .21 on the fusion probably isn't 2.1. I think the sirio would be close to the 1.7 claim. And yes, it will rev harder than the thunder tiger. You shouldn't have any problems with it. I have another ntc3 that I am going to put that .15 in myself. I don't wanna run the >21 all the time. It should be out anytime now. Or, you could do a few mods and run the sirio .18 in your car.....

[derekbond]

This is a new S .15 then. Trinity only had one on the website.
It was a .15 Standard, 2.5cc, 5 ports.

[puma1824]

show2ime YGPM

[Maverick Racer]

Originally posted by spenzalii
So the header could work, and I could swap the pipe for, say, a REX or that new Fantom Works pipe, right?

No, I ment that the header is not bad, just the people that designed it have no idea about tued pipe dynamics, probably not the case, or they just didn't want the price to be to high so they used straight dia. tubing instead of tapered dia. tubing.

[2Fast2Furious]

I'm thinking of getting one of these cars and am wondering if the HPI rims will fit this car.? also will any of the HPI 200mm bodies work with this car.?

Thanks