Associated Nitro TC3 Thread v2.0

[Matlock]

Originally posted by atm92484_3
I would probably take the Novarossi due to their racing heritage, however I wouldn't buy an engine due to claimed ratings. Novarossis are hot engines, don't get me wrong on that, but I seriously cannot see that engine producing 1.8 hp under racing conditions, in the real world (1.4 is a little more reasonable though for the Ofna, but it still may be a little high). Try shopping around and seeing what each one run price-wise.


I don't thick he means Novarossi. Their is a difference between Novarossi and Rossi.

I would still take the Rossi over the OFNA/Picco, though.

[jnegrx]

I know that claimed hp and real hp is totally different. Both are claimed hp. I know the 1.8 is a bit high but as you can see it's at 39,000rpm so i guess they are about equal hp in usable powerband. Rossi is not Novarossi ( i may be wrong). Andrea Rossi is one of the founders of Novarossi but he is making Sirio brand engines (different from Novarossi a least in design) . I don't really know if the Rossis are made in the same factory as Novarossi but the Rossis look totally different from any other motor i have seen. I just want to know if someone has seen the Rossi somewhere because they are so new here that only one guy i know has it and he isn't telling anything about it only that it sounds different. These two engines are in the same price range, about $230 the ofna and $240 the Rossi. The ofna is a rocket but really i don't want to spend $230 and for the same money i could have a "better" engine. I hope that you understand my dilema now. By the way these are not cheap so i can't buy both, thats why i want your opinions.

[jnegrx]

Matlock
Have you seen the Rossi anywhere?
I've seen one in pieces and the cuts in the block, the port design are different, the crank is just incredible. Every thing is CNC machined. I think from the workmanship of the engine, the perfomance is better in the Rossi. I was leaning towards the Rossi but wanted to find out from someone's experience.

[Matlock]

Originally posted by jnegrx
Matlock
Have you seen the Rossi anywhere?......


https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=R138R12&showbig=6809


Would that be it?

[jnegrx]

Yes thats the baby i want in my car. What do you think?

[Matlock]

Looks like a real nice engine. Of course it will not have 1.6-1.8hp, but it will still be plenty powerful I bet! I my self am getting a NTC3 next spring and will be getting either a Novarossi RS12 S3 or a RB X12. Which one would you get? I know that Novarossi makes engines for RB's, but I don't know if these two are the same. Do you?

[jnegrx]

I haven't use either of them (only Picco and OS)but i guess the Novarossi just because they make the RBs. If i was an engine builder i had the best then sell the rest. I see it this way, like in F1 Ferrari makes an engine then the next year when they have another more powerfull engine for them then they sell the design to some other team. It makes sence don't you think? But those two are quality engines.

I would go with Novarossi

[Matlock]

Cool. I will see what the price difference is and if my LHS could get either. Thanks

[Matlock]

Have you seen the specs on the Novarossi RS12 S3?

1.5HP
36.500RPM

And it only has 3-ports:eek:


http://www.novarossi.com/motori_ing/12/rs12s3ing.html

[jnegrx]

That engine looks great. It should be killer.

[TUCRACEMAN]

If any of ya'll have noticed a drop in performance of your car, I recommend that you check the two-speed clutch housing. I was rebuilding my two-speed when I noticed that the bearing was shot. I replaced the housing and the difference was night and day. The car was much faster and ran 30 degrees cooler.
~Dave

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by Matlock



I don't thick he means Novarossi. Their is a difference between Novarossi and Rossi.


I know theres a difference: I just didn't realize that Rossi is making smallblocks now. If this is anything like their big-blocks though, it should be a rocket. :)

[amessci]

Good Afternoon all, I have a question that i have been actually trying to work out with my car, but I would like to turn to you guys for opinions.
I have a Picco P.12 pull start in my Ntc3. For some reason it doesnt really have the acceleration that i truly need. I even geared it down with the pinion to 20 spur 52, it seems like its growling on the bottom.Could it be that i need to goto the 3 shoe clutch?
Also what is the point to cutting the clutch shoes?
Ps. I put the stiffer springs in and it seems to be a little better!
Thanks

[atm92484_3]

Cutting the shoes reduces weight on the shoes and requires more RPMs for the clutch to engauge. You might want to try this since it will let the engine built up RPMs and be closer to its powerband, before the clutch engauges. Aside from the clutch, it may be your tuning. What temp is your engine running? I think this is more likely the problem rather than the clutch since you have a decent engine along with the lowest gearing (or highest depending on who you talk to).

good luck

[coastal-tony]

I dusted the 1st speed spur gear today.
Could this be the bearing thing?
With this Collari & a DIFFERENT CARB, this car smokes.
I hit a wall coming onto the back-straight, it is concrete, that might have been the culprit. This Collari has some mean RPMs
anyway, a new spur gear will be needed

[spenzalii]

This may seem like sacrilidge or heresy, but what do you think:
a pull start Traxxas 2.5 in the NTC3. If this motor can pull that heavy 4tec over 60, can you guess what it will do to that:confused:

[atm92484_3]

You have to remember though that the 4-Tec is heavily over-geared.

[FrankyRizzo]

Just ran my TC3 with the Yok one way. I also found out that the green Horrible Products Inside sway bar is a .078 diameter wire. With a tad bit of bending it fits perfect.

It friggin hauls ass. Dive bombs the turns like you would not believe it.

Just an FYI for those looking to imitate Barry Bakers .078 Buds sway bar for the rear.

[speedyOB-4]

Thinking about buying a pixi black engine for my NTC3. would this be a good idea? What should I do if I want to run foams?

Thanks in advance!
-Andy

[FrankyRizzo]

Thinking about buying a pixi black engine for my NTC3. would this be a good idea?

The only problem I can see is getting the power to the ground to be effective. My friend just bought one. Seems to be typical high RPM italian motor. I like a balance of power through the power band such as the TR.

Anyone can get a fast motor but the question is can you drive it.

[coastal-tony]

Speedy
Franky is right on the money with that.
I have a Collari XS12 on my NTC3 (very high RPM) This car is VERY, VERY quick.
I dusted my 1st speed spur gear in the 2nd qualifier yesterday, and I had to turn marshal after my race. After that, I had to race in my electric class. I was fooling around after turn marshal duty for the electric heat and forgot about the spur gear, Anyway, pulled my VoneR, with OS .12CV side exhaust/rotary carb on it.
Swapped crystals and transponder and hit the track. Everyone was looking at my car, (yeah, right that old POS OS) trying to keep from laughing. Well the OS does not generate high RPMs, but it is a stable, easy to tune engine
Posted some impressive lap times, came in 3rd
and was happy to have that cheap OS engine sitting in a back-up car

[snoddj]

Coastal-tony

That sounds very encouraging. One other reason I haven't got into racing yet over here is the thought of my car with an old OS CV engine on it going against racing engines. Looks like my perception was wrong. I guess majority of success lies on the driver.No point in having fast engines when one crashes a lot. I'm seeing light at the tunnel's end now :) .

[speedyOB-4]

Well, I am running an RB 5-port turbo, and I seem to be getting the power to the ground. So, I hope I can handle the Pixi Black. I usually end up with first, second, or third at the races in expert nitro sedan, so I hope to be competitive in ROAR.

What do I need to do in order to run foams?

[coastal-tony]

Speedy
I believe the 5 port turbo is not ROAR legal.
Sirio "race" .12 is ROAR legal
The foam set-up in the NTC3 manual is a
good starting point.

[EngenZerO]

franky who makes that rear sway bar again...i am trying to get my hands on one but cant...I am up for trying this...thanks

oz

[loarc]

any one have parts number for the convertion to fit in TC3?
Thanks

[coastal-tony]

Franky
Are many using the blade front bar?
It puts a damper on the steering

[FrankyRizzo]

Yokomo one way part number: PID SP-1705Y

For the rear sway bar you will need the stock front rear sway bar set up. Then you can get the HPI sway bars for the RS4 and the green one is the one to use. Use the bar but you will need to use the existing mounting hardware.

As far as the sway bar. I have never heard of any problems with steering. You can add a bit of steering by dialing it a bit flat. I run mine at 45 degrees.

[EngenZerO]

heh....horrible products inside = hpi

that took a second to click, LOL...thanks franky

oz

[loarc]

Franky,
Thanks for info. who carring them beside SpeedtechRC.
How about the front sway? Does it have alim. bracket?
I am running your JP. It's a little bit hot

[FrankyRizzo]

www.rcboyz.com has them. You can call also at 801-252-0244. They have all AE parts and at great prices.

The JP change to a cooler plug. My OS was hot till I changed to a OS A5. It is a tad shorter and sometimes a slightly longer plug will boost compression.

The front sway is just eyeballed. It is not an exact science. Just get it as close as you can.

[redstarracer]

its 1.7 horses not 1.8 and yes the rossi pixie does put out that much.a friend of mine just ran one at our championships this past weekend.with the same car and almost the same set up he totaly hole shoted the ntc3s with the jp blacks.im trying to order one but cant get my hands on it .its the fastest .12 ive seen yet.my friend said it was very hard to break in.and the motor does like to run on the hot side but he said thats how it was desighned.

[rcruv]

**

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by redstarracer
its 1.7 horses not 1.8 and yes the rossi pixie does put out that much.

Can I see a dyno printout?

[redstarracer]

dont need a dyno.my freind qualified 8th in the b main,the starting grids first place position starts half way down the straight away.when the horn started the race his car was the first one around that first corner.and the 1st place and third place qualifier were running jp blacks.although my friend is a crappy driver that car was fast as hell.oh ya forgot to mention he was running 30 percent;)

[NTC3NUT]

Redstarracer, You mentioned your friends Pixi was running hot, how hot?

[redstarracer]

idle temp was around 22o to 230 running temp was around 300 or so.but dont get me wrong my freind doesnt care what temp as long as it was kicking everyong elses buts.he sold the car and the motor for 300 and the car and motor was brand new.he only wanted to run in our state championships and that was it.his main nich is 1/8th scale.hes more of a .21 guy.i have a os tr and a mt12.i use my tr for stock 1/10th and ive moded my mt12 for modified 1/10th class.but after i seen his motor run ive bin trying to hunt down a good deal for it online.dam that thing is fast.when he hit the straight away it was like watching 1/8th scale pan cars with .21s.he was running it on the lean side and with 30 percent.

[redstarracer]

the next time i go to his shop and talk to him i will get the item # of the rossi he was using.

[toolcity-racer]

Im looking to buy the new jaco nitro shoes foam tire sets for the ntc3 . Do i get the 0-degree offset or 2-degree?

[EngenZerO]

get the 0-deg...

you may have to shave a little of your rear hub carriers to get the nitro shoes to fit properly...I had to do that to mine...but some poeple havn't, I guess its luck of the draw...get 40 Front or 45 Front (50 in extreme situations) and 40 rears, also get ready to use your stock lock nuts if you have been using optional low profile ones, due to the design of rim

You will love these tires they hold up to nitro racing very well

oz

[nitrogator]

I'm going to make my NTC3 an all out parking lot racer. I just finished completly breaking in my modified O.S. .15 RX, and it is amazing. It fish tales all the way thru both gears and to top speed. I'm using Take Off CS-32 rubber tires and 21/27, 54/48 gearing, and I'm sure it can hang with alot of 1/8 onroads. My goal is to make this chassis as much like an 1/8 scale onroad as possible. Where can I find a Lola Body for the NTC3 and is there any way of running any foam tires larger than 32mm wide in the rear. I want the widest tires imaginable to handle the power of the big block engine. I want to put a one way in the front when I start to hear more positive reviews on there durability. Thanks.

[FrankyRizzo]

I want to put a one way in the front when I start to hear more positive reviews on there durability.

The Yokomo one is the best one out.

[hilltopper]

HERE IS A TC3 WITH A GTP BODY FROM YOKOMO...WITH SOME FOAMS ON IT..I DONT THINK YOU CAN RUN WIDES ON THE TC3..NOT ENOUGH CLEARANCE...

[fastharry]

hill topper..i notice you use canned air.....Costco(the old price club) wholesale warehouse has a great deal.......3 cans of the big sixe....like 11 bucks......I'm sure the other wholesale places have 'em too........

[hilltopper]

fastharry thanks for the tip....you have the tc3 with the rb right?know you from the hpi forum..nice to talk to you...mine has the rb in it too...rocket fast.....

[Rookie Solara]

Guys.....good to see you guys here too, I too from the HPI forum.....what RB engine are you guys running? I want something better then my off road CV-R engine on my NTC3 next season....are you guys running X12..? I don't want any TURBO or Modified.....since I want to race everyone fair and square...

Also, about the Yokomo GTP body........how can you get the FRONT fit without touching the front shock tower...? I got a GTP body and no way in the world that I can get that fit unless I shaved the shock tower or drilled 2 holes and allow the tower sticking out of the body...

Please advise.......thanks.

Rookie Solara

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by nitrogator
Where can I find a Lola Body for the NTC3 and is there any way of running any foam tires larger than 32mm wide in the rear. I want the widest tires imaginable to handle the power of the big block engine. I want to put a one way in the front when I start to hear more positive reviews on there durability. Thanks.

Yes......try CRC website

https://www1515.boca15-verio.com/team78/web_store/web_store.cgi?page=donuts.html&cart_id=5733250_37728726

They have those outlaw (#2116 and 2118) rear 35mm foams for TC, and I think they are the widest that you can go for the NTC3.....I got a pair of those track magnet and you MUST add 2 washer as the spacer in order for you to mount those 35mm.....otherwise the rims will rub the uprights.

However, most of the track will not allow you to do that.....that's why they are called OUTLAW version, but parking lot racing is OK.

Rookie Solara

[NTC3NUT]

Rookie, Your engine choices for a ROAR legal .12 have never been better. I only have experience with Nova Rossi based engines: Mugen MT-12 & JP RS-12. These engines are as fast as anything you'll see at the track, stock or legally modified. If you check other threads you'll see favorable opinions about the new Rossi line, the OS TR's, the RB's (another Nova Rossi based engine), the Sirio's, ect.. As I'm sure you know, most HP claims are not accurate. As I said earlier all are close, or can be made to be close. Let your conscience (and your wallet) be your guide.

[jscamry]

hey all I was wondering on the NTC3, when using the droop guage if I have to take off the steering hubs and pivot balls to re-adjust the droop? Also if I change the stock droop setting in the front from 4 to 3 how will that effect the cars handling? will it make the car chang direction better?

Thanks Jason

[atm92484_3]

I leave all of the stuff on and just use the bottom of the hub carries as a reference point. You just need to make sure there isn't any flashing remaining from the mold or else you'll get an inaccurate reading.

[hilltopper]

rookie solara,the way i put the gtp body is trim out the engine and filter area.then all you have to do is cut out the body post holes,and remove the foam bumper.and it will fit on no problem...

[fastharry]

Originally posted by hilltopper
fastharry thanks for the tip....you have the tc3 with the rb right?know you from the hpi forum..nice to talk to you...mine has the rb in it too...rocket fast.....


thats me...though lately I've been running a CVR HPI SS....nice to talk to you also.........

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Guys.....good to see you guys here too, I too from the HPI forum.....what RB engine are you guys running? I want something better then my off road CV-R engine on my NTC3 next season....are you guys running X12..? I don't want any TURBO or Modified.....since I want to race everyone fair and square...

Also, about the Yokomo GTP body........how can you get the FRONT fit without touching the front shock tower...? I got a GTP body and no way in the world that I can get that fit unless I shaved the shock tower or drilled 2 holes and allow the tower sticking out of the body...

Please advise.......thanks.

Rookie Solara


rookie...heres what I do..I'm running the Parma oval outlaw body..runs real good......

to clear the towers do this.....have you ever seen those micro torches?.....some of them have a hot air tip......it's alike a pinpoint of concentrated REAL HOT air..I trim the body,mount it(unpainted)...then I heat up the area's,GENTLY,wher the tower hits and push down.....it makes 2 small little bumps..let cool,and paint away....

[meldridge]

edit - I think it's fairly obvious that e-bay links are not allowed. Thanks, -TSR6

[meldridge]

It looks like the hyperlinks got truncated, but you can search by the Item Number.

Thanks,

[NTC3NUT]

Just finished looking at the photos you took in Chicago, good job! I know it's a little over the top but man that Hardcore NTC3 is awesome. Where those Hardcore shock towers? Alum. or Ti? Too bad they don't make the upper diff case!

[speedyOB-4]

What are the best roar legal tires for mid range weather? Are foam tires legal?

[jnegrx]

foam tires are legal to use in ROAR. But i don't know wish ones to use because i race with rubber tires.

Finally put in the RPM bumper and it's a great piece, proven not to destruct on impact like the stock one. I hit a cement curb at speed and it didn't break but the impact was so severe i broke the right lower arm and bended the hinge pin.
Is anyone using titanium hingepins or any other material other than the stock ones?

[NTC3NUT]

I use the Titanium Racing hinge pin set available thru:

www.speedtechrc.com

You can also buy direct:

www.titaniumracing.com

I think the set runs about $15.00 US
They work great.

[jnegrx]

thanks
but i have a question in their site (TIR) it doesn't explain if it's a complete set. Do i need more than one or does it come with every hinge for the hole car?

[FrankyRizzo]

Had a few problems with Ti Racing.

1. The pillow balls were the wrong sizes in the packs that I got.

2. They bent very easily

3. They said they were going to send me replacements for the odd sized ones and never did.

Has nothing to do with hinge pins but might be an indication of service and quality.

[jnegrx]

franky do you have Ti hinge pins or stock ones?

[NTC3NUT]

The Titanium Racing pins are a complete set, only one is needed. I have had good luck so far with their products. I went thru 2 full sets of Associated titanium pillowballs in less than a month, bent like aluminum. I haven't had one of the Ti-Racing balls bend yet. I did get 1 set of 2 that had the wrong sized allen head. The first 6 where 3mm, and those last 2 where 2.5mm. I have a complete back up set, all 8 are 3mm. I wrote it off to an early production fluke. I also have 2 sets of hinge pins for back up and all are perfect. I have their Ti input shafts as well and all parts went together without a hitch.

[speedyOB-4]

Do you guys crash often, or is this normal wear? I've only had my NTC3 for about 5 months now, so I was wondering if these are parts that are soon to break or what. Out of all the races I've been to(2 each month) I've only broken the bumper this last week during the second heat. Is there anything better than the RPM bumper that I should buy?

[FrankyRizzo]

Is there anything better than the RPM bumper that I should buy?

I have produced a nice one that will last you longer. I also have CF diff/ shock tower supports available for 12.50 shipped. Shoot me an email at rotorhead@lvcm.com if you guys want some pics. Saves the diff from getting stripped out on those sweeper turns.

The track that we run on is wide and fast so the speeds generated are pretty high so impacts cause a bit more damage when you do hit. I find that the walls are not that bad it's the other drivers that you encounter at times.

My Ti ball ends tweeked and so did my drive shafts. I wish there were Ti CVD's. MIP are you listening!!!

[NTC3NUT]

Titanium racing makes them for the NTC3. Ithink they're $40. a pair complete. You can order them direct, I don't think Speed Tech has them yet.

[Rookie Solara]

ccccccc

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by NTC3NUT
Just finished looking at the photos you took in Chicago, good job! I know it's a little over the top but man that Hardcore NTC3 is awesome. Where those Hardcore shock towers? Alum. or Ti? Too bad they don't make the upper diff case!

Yeah good eye, HOWEVER, believe it or not, those tower are NOT titanium or even alloy, they are PLASTIC OEM parts painted in silver......I think they were planning to get them to the show but did not meet the dealline, so they painted them silver and make them look like aluminum, but I did talk to them, they are getting the diff case and shock tower in Titanimum......or at least alum. alloy.

However, GPM already got the entire kits in alloy except the diff case.

Rookie Solara

[loarc]

Rookie Solara,

Thanks for the mod info. WHo make the radio tray and where can I get it. Thanks

[redstarracer]

i hear everyone talking about how much they break there ntc3 and all other cars,becuase they think that the factory parts are faulty or to fragile.well ive have a opinion and secrete for all of you.i have broke parts on my ntc3 and it was almost the same parts as the majority of everyone breaks,but....... i did not go with a modified part or after market aluminium.becuase when you strengthen one part on impact of that same place you put pressure on another part.ill give you an example.a friend of mine was racing one sunday he put on a aftermarket bumper.mine was still stock.we impacted almost the same place at almost the same speed while racing on a track in diferent mains.my cars bumper broke his did not but......he tweaked his chassis so bad that it bent his shaft busted the rear diff case and a hole lot of other things that he could not finish the days race.it costed him well over 100 clams to fix his car.i just needed a new bumper wich i had a spare in my spare parts box.like the theory goes"something has got to give"and ya sure his bumper was intact but the rest of the car looked like it belonged in a rc crash museum.a manufacture will try to desighn and build a car that will give and allow inexpensive parts to break.do you realy wanna get those aluminium arms.they might not break but what about your cvds and bulk heads what about your bearings.everyone knows bearings arent cheap and i have seen people shatter a bearing becuase another thing was aluminium.i do agree that the ntc3s fuel tank sucks i moded mine and put another retaining wire on the pipe to hold it from smashing into the tank again.but as for after market parts for the ntc3,i dont think this car needs any of it.my hat is of to ae for desighning one of the best no wait THE BEST nitro 1/10th scale ive seen yet.ti and hard core can keep there expensive parts i like my ntc3 just the way it is.its geting into the a main.the driver on the other hand has got to get a little more skills but my car makes it.the only after market part i would highly recomend for anyone is a bad ass killer engine.and your ready to rumble.

[nitrogator]

Sounds like a great point. I have yet to break anything on my NTC3.

[FrankyRizzo]

I still maintain that the weak points need to be dealt with. I don't need to go gung ho and aluminize everything.

As far as the bumper goes I just got tired of buying a $5 item after grazing something. The bumpers I make take the impact and does not pass it on to the next weakest part.

[jnegrx]

I totaly agree that aluminum everything is not the answer. Al weighs a lot and in racing weight is very bad. Some things must break, but the front bumper is a must repace item. I used my stock bumper a lot and it didn't break (lucky). Now i have an RPM one and i must say that this is the last bumper i think i will buy.

IMO its better to replace the dif covers with the stock ones. It's cheaper. Yes, i know that the aluminum one will out outlast the stock one but the chassis will recive all the force of a crash and bend, the shaft will bend. The key is try not to crash, easier said than done. :)

As far as titanium goes its stronger than steel and it weighs less so it's a performance enhancer. In the chassis department IMO I prefer aluminum to titanium because it (the chassis) is part of the cooling of the motor. I don't remember if the heat dissipation chracteristics of aluminum is better than Ti but i think it's much better.

[redstarracer]

jnegrx
your absolutly right.titanium disapates heat alot slower thats why manufactures build there cars with that special aluminium.but.....the thicker the chassis the longer it will take for the heat to disapate.the heat is sent right back up threw the motor.i noticed this with my old rs4.when i changed the chassis to the heavy duty one my motor ran hoter.it took me a while to figure that one out.i think the trick with all racing is how much you pay attention to detail.if you can do that then half the battle of it all has bin figured out.now its up to you to drive good.unfortunetly im not that great of a driver.i can go a whole heat and not crash but i will get laped:D i put my moded mt12 in my tc3 and will find out how it pans out.my os tr is a very good motor but my mt12 rocks;)

[jnegrx]

redstrarracer

The thickness of the material does have a negative effect on temp dissipation but it can be resolved with some milling of the chassis in some critical areas. The surface area is the determining factor in a good heat dissipator. We can thank AE for such a large chassis area.

[littlej72]

I am looking for some good set ups for my ntc3, as I recently went to a local race and got my a-- handed to me and I can drive electrics. I'm kinda clueless to a degree on setting up this car properly. I built it per the manual and it may be ok but I know at least my tires are junk. So what tires is everyone running on asphalt that is semi prepped to not prepped, all of ae's setups are on totally prepped tracks? thanks a lot guys. I'd like to learn how to drive this thing finally instead of sliding all over the damn place. Anyone selling a set up system?

[nitrogator]

I need a taller 2nd gear for NTC3. I have 21, 27, and 54, 48 gearing now, and my .15 RX easily turns the 2nd gear and could handle so much more. Are there any aftermarket gears I could get to increae top speed? Are there any tires out there that have a larger diameter than the normal rubber tires(2.5 inch)? I'm racing with 1/8 scales in parking lots and need that second gear top speed. Thanks

[EngenZerO]

For the moment I am running the stock setup...exactly the way the manual states, droop, springs, camber, toe in for rear is 2 though and toe for front is 1 degree out...I am using the BRP 0.78 bar sway bar for the rear, and front blade set up 45. I am using 50 shore jaco nitro shoes up front and 40 in the rear. The track that we run is on untreated asphault...I find my car handling to my liking. I also run my car in front of my house...and we have construction going around here...so I get decent handling on extremely dusty roads as well...eats through foams though...

What is your car handling like on your track (sliding is in the rear?)...I would first get some different sets of tires with different shore ratings...go get Nitro Shoes...these are great tires...double check your suspension and look for tweak...tires are probably more important at the moment...you will want to use stiffer up front (45 or 40) and softer in rear (40 always for me)...also pick up a BRP 0.78 sway bar if your rear is too loose...it realy does add some traction to your turns...

[FrankyRizzo]

I hope you mean a .078 wire. .78 is over 3/4 of an inch.

[EngenZerO]

0.78 is about .078 :D heh....well aproximitly ;)

.078 is what I am running...BRP number #6200

[spdfrk]

Anyone had a problem with there clutch flanged bearing spliting??

I just tried starting my new Sirio and the flage on the front bearing split. I am using the 2 spacers as they say in the book but im thinking i might need the third spacer on there. My engine is a SG type.

[NTC3NUT]

Hi guys. I had one of the best days ever today. I got to hang out in the pits with Team Associated for 4 hours while they practiced for the Worlds. Man was that awesome! They let me check out their cars, gave me some tips, and even got the whole team to autograph a FT TC3 box for my workshop wall. I have a few pics to post showing a toe-link mod & a dual chamber pipe mod. I got a few pictures of the team too. I will post more as soon as I figure out how to send them larger than a postage stamp! Enjoy!

[NTC3NUT]

Hi Guys, I figured out how to post the photos. If you go to the RC Tech site and look in the NTC3 and Worlds threads you can check them out. I would repost them here, but doing them one at a time is a major pain. There are 4 or 5 in the NTC3 thread requarding toe-link and dual chamber mods, and 9 or 10 in the Worlds thread. Enjoy.

[ntc3racer]

by any chance would post links? thanks! did you take pics of their cars?

[NTC3NUT]

Here is a link, check out pgs. 2-3 under "Who will rule the Worlds", and pgs. 47-48 under "Rc10ntc3".

http://www.rctech.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=3

[Rookie Solara]

Originally posted by NTC3NUT
Here is a link, check out pgs. 2-3 under "Who will rule the Worlds", and pgs. 47-48 under "Rc10ntc3".

http://www.rctech.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=3

ok.......I didn't know you post the pics on Serpent site, but what about the close up pic of the NTC3? Any of those...?

Rookie Solara

[NTC3NUT]

Rookie, If you click on this link:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/forumdi...hp?s=&forumid=3


and go to the "Rc10ntc3" thread there are close-ups of Travis's car on pgs. 47 & 48.

I didn't post the photos on Serpents site, but there are a few there. Here's the Serpent link:

http://www.myrcworld.net/events/imggal.asp?eid=611

[DUMMIECHASER]

I WANT ONE OF THOSE TOO.WOULD U TELL MME THE SITE WHERE THEY TELL ABOUT IT:)

[Tom Hutt]

Looking at NTC3 from the back, should I be able to read the markings on the spur gears or does the writing face forward or does it matter?
Thanks

[TC3Kamikaze]

spdfrk
I haven't heard of anyone having that trouble. I'd give Team associated call on that.
NTC3NUT
Yeah keep us informed on how the team does this time. I'm waiting to see if they break like at the nats.
DUMMIECHASER
Check out www.rc10.com for info on the Nitro TC3 and RTR version. Also kill the caps lock.
Tom
I believe they face away from you when looking at them from the rear. I don't have my car here at the shop to make sure though. If no one else replies by the time I get home, I'll check to make sure.

[NTC3NUT]

Info from Serpent's official site:

The following is a partial list of the results from today’s practice session. They’re only useful as “interesting information”, as while the rounds were run just as if they were official qualifiers, the real qualifying doesn’t start until tomorrow.

The top-ten practicers in the 200mm class were:
# name laps time car engine
1 Billy Easton 26 laps in 10:15.3 TC3 Picco
2 Walter Henderson 26 laps in 10:27.3 TC3 Picco
3 Travis Amezcua 26 laps in 10:06.1 TC3 Picco
4 Matt Francis 25 laps in 10:16.5 Trinity Picco
5 Simon Carmilleri 25 laps in 10:23.1 Serpent ?
6 Ralph Burch Jr. 24 laps in 09:50.0 Serpent Novamega
7 Mark Pavidis 24 laps in 10:00.7 TC3 ?
8 Joel Johnson 24 laps in 10:02.7 Trinity Picco
9 Robbie Collins 24 laps in 10:09.1 Mugen ?
10 Josh Cyrul 24 laps in 10:13.1 Trinity Sirio

[NTC3NUT]

More from Serpent:

Since this was only a practice day, perhaps a better indication of who’s fast would be the best lap times. The best time so far is a 22.4, done yesterday by Barry Baker. Here are a few of the best laps today, copied from the heat standings from the 200mm class:

Racer Fastest lap
Ralph Burch Jr. 22.7
Barry Baker 22.7
Billy Easton 22.7
Adrien Bertin 22.9
Walter Henderson 23.1
Michael Salven 23.3
Mike Blackstock 23.3
Josh Cyrul 23.3
Travis Amezcua 23.4
Milko Tenthof 23.5
Chris Tosolini 23.5
Julius Kolff 23.6
Brandon McNally 23.7
Joel Johnson 23.8
Mark Pavidis 23.9
Robbie Collins 24.3
Marty Barnes 24.3
Don Jones 24.6
Hajme Tamaki 24.7
Matt Francis 24.9

[NTC3NUT]

Now that I've got my camera figured out (almost), here's a photo of my favorite ride. Enjoy!

[NTC3NUT]

The other side.

[NTC3NUT]

One more.

[tOrcHed Lh]

daaaaaaaaaaaamn that's a tight ride

[TC3Kamikaze]

Tom
Scratch that I have mine facing me while looking at it from the rear. It doesn't really matter though.
NTC3NUT
Sweet car man. Makes me want to convert to rear exhaust just to be able to adjust my low speed needle. What head is that?

[NTC3NUT]

Thanks for the compliments guys. The heat sink is from Crazy Nut Racing. You can check out his site here:

www.crazynutracing.com

[NTC3NUT]

Heres a close-up.

[littlej72]

NTC3 nut where do you live? what area? Those heads are made by a guy who lives right near me.

[redstarracer]

hey NTC3NUT what kind of clutch do you have in that car is that the centax and if it is how well does it work in the ntc3.im looking to get me one.i want to be the first of the line:) our track is tight so i need a little more uummf on the low end.tc3 is fast of the line now but i want my car so quick that the v one rs and reflexes and mugens dont even have a fighting chance:D

[NTC3NUT]

I live in NW Ohio. The heads are awesome! I recommend them to everyone I talk to. I even talked to the A-Team about them last Saturday at a Worlds practice session. I bought both of them on Ebay, got one for $50, stole the other one for $30! Yes, thats the centax. I had my stock 3-shoe set-up to work really well on my MT-12, but when I got the JP I decided to step up. I think the centax works great. It's snappy, never slips,and can be infinately adjusted. Did I mention it looks awesome too? The only down side is the cost, and parts availability (I bought 2 just in case). You also have to remove and regrease the thrust bearing every 2-3 runs.

[NTC3NUT]

Here's a closer photo. A little blurry, sorry.

[tOrcHed Lh]

every 2-3 RUNS?? how many tanks per run?

[littlej72]

Alright guys, everyone is so knowledgable and helpfull(thanks!) I have a new perdicament, who makes a descent screw set for this car(great car ****** screws) that dosnt cost ninety dollars! thanks guys.

[atm92484_3]

The AE screws are just fine. I've found all too many people either have crappy allen drivers/wrenches or the screws are so packed with dirt, the allen driver cannot fully grip the screw and it strips.

jmo

[littlej72]

Sorry,and not to be difficult, but I disagree. I have heard this theory often, obviously you guys did'nt get the same screws I have. I work for a local Acura dealership as a Tech and have extensive tool supplies and find the screws to be of very inconsistent qaulity, I'm just tired of getting bags of two different kind of screws(usually head size) I should put a few on here that I've gotten from AE. I have never run into the same problem with even my cheap cars. thanks for the advice though.

[NTC3NUT]

Torched,
Yes, about every 2-3 runs (qualifiers, mains, ect.). It may be several tanks of gas. I usually take it out and regrease it after every full day of racing. I know it sounds like a pain, but It's not hard to do, and the performance gain is worth it.

[ragamuffin]

Forgive me, but the search function did not return the answer I was looking for. In a nutshell...I saw an NTC3 w/a rear-exhaust engine at the local track during a practice day, and the owner had flipped the AE header around to mount up an MIP stinger pipe that ran straight out the back of the car. Other than being a tad bit loud (well, actually, a lot louder!), I saw no negative effect on the slightly higher CG. The engine seemed to run well and not load up (his tank was unmodded). I believe that Dennis Ritchy was fiddling around with a similar configuration. As far as I can tell, you will need to redrill the spring holes for mounting the header, remove the handle, and provide some means of securing the pipe to the rear shock tower.

Pro's/con's about this?

[littlej72]

This sounds pretty cool and different but for racing it will have a severe effect on the roll center of the car, it's like driving a stiffly sprung suv around the track, besides why go to all the trouble when AE has an updated tank that will be released in october.

[littlej72]

I am interested in buying bodies already cut and painted(etc) new or used that are specifically cut and trimmed(post holes and all) for a Nitro TC3 as it comes stock, Please send me pics or any info thanks and I will buy new or used. (Also need a body for a losi xxx-s. thanks! (littlej72@hotmail.com)

[PremierRC]

hey frankyrizzo what battery was it that you put in your starter box again? Which one was it from the batteries plus site? Thanks


premierrc

[ragamuffin]

Originally posted by littlej72
This sounds pretty cool and different but for racing it will have a severe effect on the roll center of the car, it's like driving a stiffly sprung suv around the track, besides why go to all the trouble when AE has an updated tank that will be released in october.

Don't know about you but the NTC3 I saw w/this setup appeared to be handling just fine on the track, thank you. I like to try different things in the spirit of experimentation.

As for the tank, that was not what I was inquiring about. For the record my fuel delivery system in working just fine.

[island-guy]

I've seen this setup run and although it looked to handle okay, it was so loud that it really should not be run if there is a slight chance that excessive noise could be a problem. It sounds like it has no pipe...period :)

[jnegrx]

Guys the results are in and Mark Pavidis is The sedan world champ. Go to the nitro forum for more info.:)

[FrankyRizzo]

frankyrizzo what battery was it that you put in your starter box again?

It was a 3 amp hour gel cell from batteries plus. Works awesome and have never had a problem.

[jnegrx]

I have a question for you guys. In AE site they say that if you use the three shoe flywheel you need to use the shoes from a GT but I have this flywheel and i am using the NTC3 shoes with heavy springs and they work ok. The thing is that why do you think they said to use those shoes. The GT shoes don't use any springs so i don't know wish is best. Maybe it has to do with the size or the weight of the shoes themselves.

[PremierRC]

thanks franky but i cant figure out which battery it is from the site.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by jnegrx
I have a question for you guys. In AE site they say that if you use the three shoe flywheel you need to use the shoes from a GT but I have this flywheel and i am using the NTC3 shoes with heavy springs and they work ok. The thing is that why do you think they said to use those shoes. The GT shoes don't use any springs so i don't know wish is best. Maybe it has to do with the size or the weight of the shoes themselves.



that sounds wrong to me......look at some of the answers lately.....they don't sound like Don's writing them......One guy asked which crank end to use,a SG or turbo.....they answered "SG,of course".......thinking that a turbo crank has a different end...and we all know,thats the wrong answer....(we all know that,right?)

[FrankyRizzo]

CLTXPA12-3.3F

on this page:
http://batteriesplus.com/Product/slaxtream.html

[tOrcHed Lh]

thanks ntc3nut... but that's too much maintence for me
=)

[TUCRACEMAN]

I was wondering. Who here has the dual chambered pipe? What do you think about it?
~Dave

[NTC3NUT]

Hi guys. Spent the whole day at the Worlds Saturday. I've got 100+ pictures, and 2 hrs. of tape. I should have most of the photos posted by tomorrow. I'm sure you all know by now:

235mm- 1st-Brian Berry- Serpent
2nd-Josh Cyrul- Mad Dog(?)

200mm- 1st-Mark Pavidas-ASSOCIATED!
2nd- Josh Cyrul-Trinity

Barry Baker hooked me up with lots of photos of his car, and the other team guys where just as helpfull. Who rules the World?

ASSOCIATED DOES!

[ntc3racer]

he hooked you up, how about you hook us up with the pictures?

[NTC3NUT]

Here's the first, bear with me. This photo thing is still new to me and posting them one at a time is a pain. So is formating them to fit the different sites. Enjoy.

[ntc3racer]

How about putting them on a website, server space or something? Online storage space :confused:

[Kevin Boyle]

NTC3Nut,


If plan on making a copy of that tape, I will send you a few bucks amd a blank tape. I have been running the Nirto TC3 and loving it.I am looking forward to those set-ups and photo's
E-mail factoryteamkb@comcast.net drop me a line



Kevin Boyle
(215) 368-5699 E.S.T

[Kevin Boyle]

NTC3Nut,


OK I forgot to proof it, let try it again If you plan on making a copy of that tape, I will send you a few bucks and a blank tape. I have been running the Nirto TC3 and loving it. I am looking forward to those set-ups and photo's

drop me a line at
factoryteamkb@comcast.net


thanks
Kevin Boyle
(215) 368-5699 E.S.T

[NTC3NUT]

Can anyone tell me where to go to post all my Worlds pictures at once? I have about 100. Getting them to fit these website threads is a MAJOR pain, not to mention posting them one at a time. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance

[PremierRC]

thanks for the info again franky... I have another question for you guys. What screws are you guys using to mount your motors? The ones that came with the kit suck.

[NTC3NUT]

Hi guys, I've posted 30 pictures on the HPI site, more to come. Here's the link:

Click Here (http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?s=&postid=523485#post523485)

Click on the forums button, then scroll down to the "Non-HPI Nitro Kits". Click there, then go to the "Nitro TC3 Owners Club New Thread", photos start on the bottom of page 172. Enjoy.

[FrankyRizzo]

What screws are you guys using to mount your motors?

I have used the kit ones with no problems. Use very light thread lock and use a very good allen tool. I use the AE ones and make sure the head of the screw doesn't have any gunk in it to ensure a good fit.

[RichieRich]

Originally posted by TUCRACEMAN
I was wondering. Who here has the dual chambered pipe? What do you think about it?
~Dave

Yeah, I'd like to know if anyone likes the AE dual chambered pipe too.

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by PremierRC
thanks for the info again franky... I have another question for you guys. What screws are you guys using to mount your motors? The ones that came with the kit suck.

If you're having that much trouble with the screws, try slotting the head with a Dremel tool. Alteast that way you'll be able to easily remove it with a slot screw driver.

[island-guy]

The dual chambered pipe gives great low-midrange punch with no sacrifice on the top. I little quieter and seems to get a little more mileage.

[Temjin006]

I would like to know if anyone here have try the alloy knuckle arms from gpm. I have havent problems wit the pviot ball cap cracking off when i crash on the the side walls sometimes. The alloy arms have nylon inserts so i dun have to worry about the caps.

[nitroguy2001]

hey all i have a question.

Where are you guys mounting your transponders? Right now I have mine on the body in the front between the bodyposts. I dont know if there is some trick way that you all are putting them on. Also i saw the Hardcore Racing titanium top deck that had a transponder mount on it(newest caraction).

thanks
Brian~

[Rushack]

Anyone else having problems with the front bumper top plate? I keep stripping mine out. If i were to make some aluminum or carboin fiber top plates, would anyone be intrested?

Maybe i should just stop hitting stuff...

[Rushack]

Anyone else having problems with the front bumper top plate? I keep stripping mine out. If i were to make some aluminum or carboin fiber top plates, would anyone be intrested?

Maybe i should just stop hitting stuff...

Also, i just drill a hole in my body for transponder, works well.

[atm92484_3]

I haven't had any trouble with them stripping, but AE did use a softer plastic up there to allow for flex in a crash so it isn't totally impossible for it to strip. If its really bad, try getting a new one and don't torque down the screws as much. An aluminum one would be cool, but it would just place the force of a crash someplace else.

[JREEVES]

Speaking of hitting stuff, check out my post in the Nitro Forum for the Fix if you've ever blown up a diff case, this thing works!

[NTC3NUT]

Here's the Hardcore Racing titanium bumper brace. It comes with ti screws, and aluminum standoffs. Works great, after I put it on I actually bent my RPM bumber! First time all year I have been able to tweek the RPM bumper.

[ntc3racer]

This has been a very bad weekend for me....
My car got totaled by a car this morning, along with all my new parts I invested(tires,rims,driveshalf,2 speed) The worst part is, it go broke during the first 15 secs on it's first tanks in it's first ran since i invested new parts :(

Everything's gone in my car. From front/rear towers to fuel tanks to chassis to engine mounts to pipes to rims. Now my this is a rtr version of the car. I was debating if I should just buy another ntc3 or should i spend the money on this car and fix it? If I spend money of this car, what parts do you guys suggest on buying to restore it again? I don't know if my engine is shot or not, if it is, I plan to buy the serio .12. I don't know anything about these engines, can you guys fill me in one the price/spec? Since I chassis is bent, I also would like the one chassis where a member brought for $40. Can you tell me where to get it? I also want to do mods to it like the shock tower mods/pivot ball mod/ tank. Can you guys give me instructions on these mods? thanks!

[fastharry]

well,I've finally learned to use a digital camera..and how to post attachments......Heres the first thing I did.....

[Temjin006]

Can any1 here tell me what the part number is for the new tc3 tank.

[atm92484_3]

Isn't it the same number as the old tank?

[coastal-tony]

New AE NTC3 tank # is 7719

[fastharry]

here's the gas tank in my car..I'll be trying it tues nite.....


BTW,the arrows are pointing to a HPI z251 1.5 mm roll pin which,after I drilled a 45 degree hole out side the wire,CA'd in place...now,when the pipe gets hit,the wire cant travel to the rear of the car..the roll pin stops it...I've taken a T-Bone from an Impulse...nothing happened to the tank...the pipe got a little ding in it..

[OmegaTrac]

Hey,
If I decide to get an NTC3, will I be able to start with my Black OFNA True Start box?

[Temjin006]

How come the new tank (7719) is different from the RTR tank? i thought it was the same.

[coastal-tony]

OmegaTrac
If you can turn the wheel on your box 90 degrees you can use it.
Here is a pic of mine

[coastal-tony]

Is the "foam tire set-up" in the manual right-on, or have I missed something while I was gone?
I have been racing my Reflex and want to get the NTC3 ready for this weekend.

[Keiger]

Originally posted by NTC3NUT
Here's the Hardcore Racing titanium bumper brace. It comes with ti screws, and aluminum standoffs. Works great, after I put it on I actually bent my RPM bumber! First time all year I have been able to tweek the RPM bumper.
NTC3NUT
That sweet bumper brace you have there. How does it hold up say Hypotheticly (sp?) speaking. Crusing at speed and you turn to miss the pole and you don't. I have managed to bust 2 Assoc. bottom bumper braces latley. (Hypotheticly (sp?) speaking)
Will that brace hold up or should I wait untill my DRIVING GETS BETTER?

[NTC3NUT]

I think it works pretty good. I have been in a few hard crashes since I installed it and it hasn't shown any signs of bending.

[Kevin Boyle]

NTC3NUT

You have mail, I know it is early but any ideas on the Gas Nats. for 2003??? I am there and I do not care were it is. I have all summer to get ready and we have a new track that is getting better with every weekend.


Kevin

[Pro3/nmt105]

Im thinking about getting a ntc3 but on associateds site i dont see an ft version is one available or in prodution?

[speedydave]

A Factory Team kit is currently unavailable, but I'm sure AE will get around to one eventually! :) In the meantime, you can buy a kit NTC3 and hop it up with all the Factory Team mods you want. :D

[Kazie]

Hey guys, I just built my ntc3, my front diff is kinda funky. I hold both wheels and spin the left diff the shaft and the two rear wheels move, but when i spin the right wheel the shaft moves slightly and the wheels move slightly.. thats if i spin it back and fourth but if i spin the right front wheel in one direction the shaft and rear wheels dont move. If i hold the shaft, And sping the left wheel it gives away and doesnt spin the right wheel. If i hold the shaft and spin the right front wheel it doesnt have much resistance, the left wheel doesnt move also.. HELP!!

[number11]

I had a very similar problem but didn't notice it. I couldn't get my car to hook up at all. One of the guys at my track took a look at my car and noticed my front diff wasn't working properly so I took it apart and noticed I forgot one washer. Off the top of my head I think it was #2331 once we put that in the car handled like a dream. I would suggest looking at your diff again and making sure it is put together correctly. I can't believe I missed that washer it would have saved me a lot of headache.

[Pro3/nmt105]

does anybody know of any place that sells the ntc3 cheaper than tower?

thanx

[trakhak]

Can any of you guys recommend a good tire that offers both grip and will last 2 or 3 race days(9 runs). I am using HPI slicks belted 33r and they are nice and sticky bit my LHS track is a bumpy asphalt surface and I go thru a set in like 5 runs. Wanted some input before I waste any coin. Thanks

[Kazie]

I wonder why associated put the 3 shoe clutch in my ntc3 kit.. whats the differnce in 2 or 3 shoe? what would getting stiffer springs do?

[jnegrx]

The 3 shoe has more surface are in contact with the bell so it grabs faster, with less spining of the cluth bell. Quiker of corners.
With stiffer springs the shoes won't engage as quick and this lets the motor rev higher so when the force of inercia overcomes the springs the car will come out of corners faster. If you let the motor rev a little higher, the motor will be in the "meat" of the powerband(where it has more power).

[Kazie]

o cool, what about cutting or drillin holes in the shoes? makes it lighter so..itll take even longer to catch?

[jnegrx]

Yes!:)

[Kazie]

ahh awesome!

[coastal-tony]

trakhack
Team Sorex 36Rs, and 40Rs with HPI inserts are also good, but run time will always be a factor with rubber tires.
I am getting a few sets of the new Orion tires next week to try out.
Where in S Florida do you race?

[trakhak]

I "race" at G&C Hobbies and practice at Go Racing Hobbies, wish they would get a race off one day. I just heard from the treasurer of Coral Springs Road runners that a roadcourse is under construction and will be up and running in a couple of monthes. Man ever since Monster went belly up the racing scene went dead. How about you where do you run, and do I know you?!

[us_matrix]

I am running Foam tire on a very smooth Asphalt track. But the car handling is very bad and it keeps spinning out when it turns. I was wondering if anything to do with front/rear diff setting.
(I set it based on the manual 1/4 for front and 1/2 for rear when i build the car)
or Do i need to install Front blade roll bar kit and rear roll bar kit ? What does Front blade roll bar and rear roll bar kit for ?
Any suggestion will be very apprecaited?

Thanks.

[coastal-tony]

TrakHak
How long have you raced at G & C?
Did you go to Monster every Sunday?
If yes to Monster, then you know who I am.
What kind of car do you race?

[trakhak]

Coastal-Tony
I raced off and on with Ultra Mark and Andre,Freddie in the TLO1 Spec Class and when Justin was around I usually pitted with him. I raced a red Benz DTM TLO1... G&C is really no contest as yet, they just recently reopened the tracks and mostly newbies, its a dirt oval, and a asphalt track that they run oval and roadcourse,gimmick is you never know how they are going to set it up. I race my TLO1 on the dirt oval with rally tires and it kicks with a stk. motor. On Road I have been running my NTC3 and its really no contest there....when I want to run serious laps I go to GRH and practice there. On the track at G&C is where I am going thru tires, foams dont seem to hook up too well. Let me know about the Orion Tires, I need to get this sorted out. The folks at G&C are real nice people and if you can get some of the guys together they would appreciate the turn-out, they have fair prices in the shop and its just low-pressure racing. How about you, where do you run?

[1nsane]

Originally posted by us_matrix
I am running Foam tire on a very smooth Asphalt track. But the car handling is very bad and it keeps spinning out when it turns. I was wondering if anything to do with front/rear diff setting.
(I set it based on the manual 1/4 for front and 1/2 for rear when i build the car)
or Do i need to install Front blade roll bar kit and rear roll bar kit ? What does Front blade roll bar and rear roll bar kit for ?
Any suggestion will be very apprecaited?

Thanks.

Is it sliding from rear or front ? Maybe you should change your suspension setting . Try harder springs or oil .

[FrankyRizzo]

Matrix
Try the blade sway in front. Mount it at a 45 degree angle
The wire rear is good but change out the wire for a .078 dia wire
yellow front springs 60 wt oil
red rear 40wt oil
Try 42 shore fronts 26mm
and 40 rears 30mm
2 degree camber front 2.5 rear

Should plant the car better. If not give me more specifics and I willl be more than happy to help.

[CHUCKMANDO]

Matrix, I will assume you are spinning your rear out. Which foams are you running? I found out after trying almost everything, that it is so true. Tires are about 90% of your set up. I found when I went to 30mm and 40 shore in the rear, it all came into place. Yok's were good and last the longest so far. Nitro shoes hook well but do not last as long. I just tried Speedminds. Only 28s in the rear but used 37 shore. They weren't bad too. I will try the 30mms next. As the weather gets coole, you will have to use lss of a shore rating.
Sways are a must for me too. I use the rear swaybar on both sides.
Hope this helps. Also if you are just bashing, get a pan body.
I run with some impacts and 1/8's and can hold my own with most of them.

[coastal-tony]

Franky & Chuck
Thanks a lot,I will try some different settings (I did not ask the question, but I am getting ready to swap over from my VoneR to NTC3 this weekend)
Franky, did you get any aluminum shocks yet?
I have 2 sets of AE FT T-Maxx shocks I will sell. They are new in the pack.
$50.00 a set

[FrankyRizzo]

Yes I did. The Big bores. A bit pissed they do not accomodate the RPM 2 stage pistons.

[us_matrix]

Originally posted by FrankyRizzo
Matrix
Try the blade sway in front. Mount it at a 45 degree angle
The wire rear is good but change out the wire for a .078 dia wire
yellow front springs 60 wt oil
red rear 40wt oil
Try 42 shore fronts 26mm
and 40 rears 30mm
2 degree camber front 2.5 rear

Should plant the car better. If not give me more specifics and I willl be more than happy to help.

Thanks guys.
I will try it out see what happen, BTW, What does front blade roll bar do to the car? What is .078 dia wire mean?

[FrankyRizzo]

The front sway bar keeps the car from rolling too much. The nice thing about the blade style is you can adjust it for a little roll or none by how the bar is possitioned. Straight up and down is stiff and when it is flat it allows roll.

The .078 is the diameter in inches of the wire you should use. The stock one in the kit is ( I think) .048. I found the Horrible Products Inside sway bar kit with the 3 bars included, the orange one is .078. Takes a little fitting but it works awesome.

[Kazie]

Hey guys, My first nitro engine...was wondering if it sounded plausable for me to get a cheap engine first and learn how to break it in and dial it in before i went ahead and purchased an os .12tr. What do you guys think? Is it pretty easy for a newb to hurt the engine? If it is indeed plausable whats slightly on the cheap side (100 dollar range) for an .12 rear engine? thanks!

[FrankyRizzo]

Go for the TR. Pretty bomb proof and just ask any of us to give you any pointers.

[hkgasmd]

I just purchased a RPM bumper for my NTC3 RTR, I wondering what is the correct way to mount it? Anybody know?

[fastharry]

its an exact replacement.....use the grommets and all...

[hkgasmd]

Thanks Fastharry. I tried to replace my front bumper. It seems like they changed the bumper for the RTR. There are no rubber grommets anymore.

[fastharry]

really?....I
lll have to check that out..maybe another "thunder tiger" move to lower cost....Don't matter though...thats a better car than any HPI rtr....

[Pro3/nmt105]

Im thinking about getting a ntc3 and im wondering what engine to get. i know i want rear exaust, and this will be my 3rd nitro engine. i can get a RB x12, a MT12, or a Sirio 12 for $150, and i can get an os 12 tr for 160 to 170. I want an engine that will be relatively easy to tune, reliable, fast but not uncontrollable and that has a pretty long life (like at least 6 gallons)
id also if possible like to get an engine that the p/s's dont cost alot of money(if possible like $75)

thank you for ure help

[trakhak]

FAST HARRY THE RTR BUMPER IS CHANGED!!

I just pulled the frt end apart it is different! Strange I wonder why AE did that? The frt susp. pins and bumper are molded together, wonder if that will cause a prob when I decide to use a blade roll bar? Any help would be appreciated.
I just picked up a Serpent Can-Am 1/10 scale body, going for a different look. Looks like it will fit ok, have to run without the foam bumper and the top of the shock caps will just barely be pocking thru the body. And of course the heatsink and filter,but thats cool it will run cooler and maybe I can lean it out some more!
Also wanted to add that I am very impressed with this AE motor, as are the guys at the track. It is a fast mill! Tunes easy, holds the adj. very well and I stay with the guys running exotic motors and it still has the pull start! Having fun right now but later I will omit the yanker and maybe play around with some porting and streamline the con rod. Peace

[fastharry]

as soon as I see a RTR at my LHS,Ill check that out...


hey,do me a favor.....I need your opinion....have you run your car against a HPI RTR with a single speed and stock FE.?...I'm curious what you think.....and how you think the car(s) compare.....

how well does that Tc3 RTR run at teh track....have you run it against RTR 3's?.....

[trakhak]

FastHarry


Absolutely no contest, I am being totally objective here. I have driven a HPI RTR and can honestly say the NTC3 is top of the heap. The HPI is a decent car but the NT is just so ahead of the other manufacturers. In the motor dept. , again AE is on top, like I said in my earlier post the AE motor makes great power and suprises alot of people. I race against a couple of HPI RTR3s each weekend and they are fast but the power isnt smooth or spread out over the powerband. Kind of like on or off with no inbetween. No remember this is a opinion not a judgement against HPI. I just think the two companies went different ways, HPI appeals to the masses as does the AE but the NTC3 is designed more to the competition side. The NTC3 is a very easy car to drive and other racers at my trak agree on that. This car makes me look like a better driver than I am. I have been racing since 85 and won a few big races but at age 40 my edge is not as sharp as it once was but this car helps...alot!

[fastharry]

I absolutely agree.......I'm 48...and I've been racing HPI for 6 years...and I have a real well done SS with a RB 3 port..its faster than any HPI I've seen..and way faster the my 3 racer2's....


but I'm way faster with the tc3 nitro(also RB eqiuped)....

[fastharry]

here's my other babys

[fastharry]

one more

[fastharry]

how about this?

[fastharry]

Originally posted by trakhak
FastHarry


Absolutely no contest, I am being totally objective here. I have driven a HPI RTR and can honestly say the NTC3 is top of the heap. The HPI is a decent car but the NT is just so ahead of the other manufacturers. In the motor dept. , again AE is on top, like I said in my earlier post the AE motor makes great power and suprises alot of people. I race against a couple of HPI RTR3s each weekend and they are fast but the power isnt smooth or spread out over the powerband. Kind of like on or off with no inbetween. No remember this is a opinion not a judgement against HPI. I just think the two companies went different ways, HPI appeals to the masses as does the AE but the NTC3 is designed more to the competition side. The NTC3 is a very easy car to drive and other racers at my trak agree on that. This car makes me look like a better driver than I am. I have been racing since 85 and won a few big races but at age 40 my edge is not as sharp as it once was but this car helps...alot!




Very well said......I needed someone to post an opinion to prove a point......and you hit the nail on the head.....and thats the great thing aboutv the Tc3

it is SUCH an easy car to drive.....I never feel I'm over the edge with it....the faster I drive,the smoother the car gets...it actually gives me confidence to drive it......

[fastharry]

also,i would EVERYONE that has a KIT,get the new tank......

I only thought my RB ran OK with the old tank.......the new one transformed it into a "OS" engine.....20 tanks of gas..2 differmt nights..not a burp OR flameout....

[cynical_zen]

Quite a collection Harry:D
I just got done building the NTC3...EVERY part fits perfectly!!!! WOW...I am impressed. Of course it is only my second car, first kit built...first car was XXX-NT RTR.
Anyways...before I break it in tomorrow morning, I meant to ask you about the fuel tank: I noticed yours has the tubing into the tank itself...mine has the tubing onto a valve on top of the tank lid...is that the "new" tank you referred to?
Thanks in advance, for your help

[cbr74]

Yes, that'd be the "new" tank. I modded the old style tank to that type of set-up very early on. It makes a big difference.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by cynical_zen
Quite a collection Harry:D
I just got done building the NTC3...EVERY part fits perfectly!!!! WOW...I am impressed. Of course it is only my second car, first kit built...first car was XXX-NT RTR.
Anyways...before I break it in tomorrow morning, I meant to ask you about the fuel tank: I noticed yours has the tubing into the tank itself...mine has the tubing onto a valve on top of the tank lid...is that the "new" tank you referred to?
Thanks in advance, for your help




NO...if your kit has the feed into the cap,THATS the new tank...those pictures were taken a few weeks ago...I since ran the new style tanks.....was your a kit?....and the new tanks were in it?...thats a good job by associated...and you got a new kit...BTW,if it was a kit(not an RTR),did the bumper have those rubber grommet cushions?....


I'll give you some hints to hold it together if you like...

[Pro3/nmt105]

Originally posted by Pro3/nmt105
Im thinking about getting a ntc3 and im wondering what engine to get. i know i want rear exaust, and this will be my 3rd nitro engine. i can get a RB x12, a MT12, or a Sirio 12 for $150, and i can get an os 12 tr for 160 to 170. I want an engine that will be relatively easy to tune, reliable, fast but not uncontrollable and that has a pretty long life (like at least 6 gallons)
id also if possible like to get an engine that the p/s's dont cost alot of money(if possible like $75)

thank you for ure help
can someone please help me decide which of these engines i should get
Thanx

[Temjin006]

Here is my TC3. It has a Novarossi RS12 5 port turbo out law. I just got the alloy kuckles on all for corners and a alloy frt shock tower.

[Temjin006]

here is another pic

[show2ime]

Nice car. Where did u get the blue shock tower? I have been looking and can't find one.

[Temjin006]

My friend from Hong Kong got them for me. They are from GPM. If you really want them, you can get them on ebay.

[tomato]

Have anyone every try modifying your engines by yourselves, rather than buying expensive modified version??

If so, can you share what tools do you use and how you do the modification?

[Temjin006]

Does anyone here know if there is a bottom plate that covers the team associated starter box. Which is better the Team box or the new Ofna Multi Starter box. I can get the team box for 77 dollars.

[fastharry]

Originally posted by Temjin006
Does anyone here know if there is a bottom plate that covers the team associated starter box. Which is better the Team box or the new Ofna Multi Starter box. I can get the team box for 77 dollars.


no bottom plate on the associated..what's nce abouit the associated is the fact it fits like a glove....and you can change it to fit std cars also(though not easily)

[jnegrx]

temjin
I've modified a couple of engines but i wouldn't recomend you to do it because you can mess a good engine if you do to much to it.
It takes a lot of mistakes to find any advantage. There was an article in a mag (NITRO)that explained some of "the tools of the trade". You will need a good set of files a stand for the engine a penlight, a moto tool(Dremel) and a protractor(360 degrees).
How to modify them its trial and error until you know what each mod does to the engine.

If you have a NTC3 get the AE starter box. Like Fastharry said it fits like a glove. I'm getting one soon. I have the Ofna and it works great but i need another one so i don't have to move the pins for my other cars and trucks.

[cynical_zen]

Originally posted by fastharry
NO...if your kit has the feed into the cap,THATS the new tank...those pictures were taken a few weeks ago...I since ran the new style tanks.....was your a kit?....and the new tanks were in it?...thats a good job by associated...and you got a new kit...BTW,if it was a kit(not an RTR),did the bumper have those rubber grommet cushions?....


I'll give you some hints to hold it together if you like...
FastHarry, thanks for the answer on the fuel tank.
Mine was a kit...pull start side exhaust kit. The bumper does have 3 rubber grommets. Although, I run it in an open parking lot...I still hit something...so, your tips on keeping it together would be greatly appreciated.:p
Yesterday, I ran the car about 15 tanks. Didn't seem to have any issues. I adjusted diffs after breaking the engine (Fantom FR12 - slide carb with P/S.) Now I just need to adjust the 2-speed tranny...it shifts a bit early, but I'll have more time next w/e to work it out.
Question, what type of diff oils do you guys use...or should I just stick with AE one?

[FrankyRizzo]

Question, what type of diff oils do you guys use...or should I just stick with AE one?

I have found the AE stealth lube to be the best one out.

[cbr74]

I agree. Stick with the AE grease. I use it for all my R/C's.

[cynical_zen]

Great...had a feeling that's the answer I'd get...
THANKS GUYS!!!

[fezzy]

Hi Folkes, just stumbled upon this thread and had a read in it. I am getting a Nitro Touring car very soon after being mainly into off-road and i've a few in mind, RS4 3 SS w/Team Orion WASP12SE, Schumacher Fusion or a NTC3 which i'd have to buy from the States. I will be racing with another 2 Fusions, RS42 w/FE, RS42 w/Novarossi CX12P, RS43SS w/5-Port Turbo engine and a RS43 SS w/Fantom FR15... With such high powered cars i wonder what engine would be good enough (on a budget) in a NCT3 to keep with the pace.

Also, do you think that a NTC3 would be a first good touring car?

Thanks!

[cbr74]

Is the NTC3 a good first touring car... yes, absolutely. Get the kit, build it yourself. AE's instructions are excellent and they provide tuning and set-up tips.
As for budget power.. I think the Fantom's have the bang per buck horsepower advantage.

[fezzy]

Yea, the Fantom engines have a NICE price in the States, the one my mate plans to put in his RS43 SS has been in his T-Maxx which he is converting a .21, Anyway he has had ALOT trouble with the engine running very erraticly and constantly runs at 400f+, Its kinda put me off them but whenit screams... it screams

[cbr74]

eratic running and high temps... sounds like an airleak to me.

[fezzy]

OK, Just priced up a NTC3 w/FR12 P/S, does the NTC3 take a SC or RC?. Also, its a tight budget but the price from the states is very very temping.... Anything else i'l need? I have some Futaba Radio Gear and two S148 servo's which i know are only standard servos but they'l do, i aint a serious racer!

and yea, we all though air leak but the thing is sealed up to the MAX with gasket sealent, replaced the carb, piston/sleeve and its just about started running anywhere near normal but runs at 400f+

[Temjin006]

The TC3 is a great kit. Its the first car that I really build myself. The instruction was excellent and the shaft drivetrain is really smooth. The only thing I dont like is the muffler. Why cant they make a manifold that will allow you to use regular pipes like the ones for Novarossi or REX.

[cbr74]

SC or RC.... umm... I'm not familiar with those terms? Do you mean SE or RE? As in... side exhaust or rear? There are two different kits... one for side and one for rear.

As for exhaust... dont under-estimate the power of a good side exhaust engine. I run a Collari XS 12 PSS with the AE header and a paris pipe. It flat screams.

[fezzy]

RC - Rotary Carb
SC - Slide Carb

:)

[cbr74]

ooohhhhh... DUH!!! My bad. :rolleyes:


The NTC3 can be set-up easily for either one. I run a slider on my Collari.

[fezzy]

Cool!

The decision lies in one thing though, I can get a Fusion cheaper, with radio from my own country compared to a NTC3 which will cost more, have no new radio equipment and be harder to obtain.

hmm

[cbr74]

Well... one thing that is important with R/C is parts availability. If you dont have a convenient, ready source of parts for your vehicle... it can cost you a lot of down time. With that in mind, I can't wholeheartedly recommend the NTC3 if parts will be difficult to get.

[fezzy]

Seeing as Schumacher are a British company parts availability is excellent, you can buy the parts on there website and be on your doorstep the next day. With AE over here however my LHS has to order thats parts in through my distributor if they haven't got them in stock, and because they sell so many kits they can't stock EVERY part for EVERY car.

Its pretty much the same story with every car over here though made by every manufacturer. There are very few who actually have a base which sell direct to the customer.

I know its probably a old question now but seeing as i know sweet FA about both the FR12 and NTC3, How fast do u think it will go?

[Rdub202]

yea well im a newbie i know a decent amount about rc but this was just brought to my attention and i was thinkin abou it...

Is the NTC3 loud, like REALLY loud, too loud for my neighborhood?????????????

Thanks in advance

[fezzy]

It depends what engine you have in, a .12 will be quieter than a .15 because it has less displacement. My friend runs a Novarossi CX12P with a T-Maxx Header and HPI Composite Pipe and its EXTREMELY quiet, almost as quiet as an electric!

[speedyOB-4]

Just bought a JP modified RS12 turbo. I don't want to do any damage to the engine, so how many tanks of fuel should I run through it breaking it in? My last engine, I ran 3 tanks of 20% odonnell fuel at idle, and gradually increased speed wih tanks 4-7. Is this how I should break in my new engine?

[cynical_zen]

Originally posted by fezzy


I know its probably a old question now but seeing as i know sweet FA about both the FR12 and NTC3, How fast do u think it will go?

I just recently built a side exhaust TC3 with Fantom FR12 pullstart and slide carb. The kit's parts and finish were excellent, fit perfectly...only thing wrong with the kit I bought, one diff housing screw was missing. Cost=$.15 from auto parts store.
Fantom FR12...be prepared to yank, yank, yank the first time out of the box. Took me 10-12 pulls to start the first time. However, once the engine was broken, 2-3 initial pulls (after prime) were needed to cold start.
Speed of car/engine combination=I am guessing 40-45 (optimistic). BUT...I have yet to dial in the 2 speed, either...it shifts early. Overall, car runs great...engine idles nice. Stock pipes and header are a bit loud.
I doubt it could beat the Fusion in a straight line race for ego as trphy in parking lots.

[cynical_zen]

Did I say "engine was broken"????....I meant "broken in":rolleyes:

[spdfrk]

Can a BB .15 fit in the NTC3?? Has anyone done it??

What BB .15 do you recommend?

I currently have a .12 standard Sirio in it, it runs very well. But keep getting licks from the race .15 guys.

[nitrogator]

spdfrk, I have a BB .15 in my NTC3. It's very easy to do and requires making new engine mounts and widenind the engine mount slots in the chassis for the wider BB .15. There's a picture of my NTC3 on page 41 of this thread. I have a slightly modified O.S. RX that really rips and would easily beat my O.S. TR. I got my .15 RX new on special from my lhs for $100, but Towerhobbies.com sells them for $155-$15 off special= $140. If you want even more speed, the Novarossi BB .15's are very fast but more expensive. The O.S. RX really overpowers the NTC3 how it is. Good luck.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by fezzy
With such high powered cars i wonder what engine would be good enough (on a budget) in a NCT3 to keep with the pace.

Also, do you think that a NTC3 would be a first good touring car?

About if the NTC3 is a good touring car I'll agree with the answers of the people who answered you. AE instruction books are one of the best of the market (Xray are better, but don't do a Nitro TC car).

Regarding motors and seeing the powerplants of your friends and asking for some who fits on your budget, may take a look to the Sirio ROAR version (yes, isn't a 5port turbo) but, with some carb tweaking and good driving skills you can put a lot of pressure on your buddies.

If you want to improve your NTC3 tranny, get the lightweight parts of the transom: (1st gear and 2nd gear support), gear it with the 21/27 and 54/48 spurs (parachute not included, but highly recommended...)

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by speedyOB-4
Just bought a JP modified RS12 turbo. I don't want to do any damage to the engine, so how many tanks of fuel should I run through it breaking it in? My last engine, I ran 3 tanks of 20% odonnell fuel at idle, and gradually increased speed wih tanks 4-7. Is this how I should break in my new engine?

Speedy, I have a JP12 and the break-in process is the key of this motor, first tank at idle on the block, very rich (your exhaust need to put a lot of oil and smoke) let rest for 15 or 20 minutes to cool off, second tank, as rich as you can without stalling trying to not engage the second (if engages is too lean), third and fourth tank lean it a 1/8 turn (second can engage, but the engine need to '4 stroke') and not give high end.

During all of this procedure is very IMPORTANT to maintain the engine temp between 170 and 190º F.

After this, you can start to lean it.

Important: If your motor is the S1 version is very important to the piston and sleeve life not reach more than 230 or 235ºF, more than this can compromise the life of your engine. If your JP is based on the S3 piston and sleeve, those values can reach up to 250ºF without problems with good fuels (Byron, O'Donnell, avoid as the plague Blue Thunder and other crappy fuels).

If you plan to run 20% nitro, your chamber can be fine, going to 25 and 30%, you may need to shim up the chamber.

[us_matrix]

Speaking of gear combination.... Stock is 50/54. if i change to like what you said 21/27 and 54/58. What does it gain? Low end or high speed? Also, They have a lot of different combination. Can someone explain which combination will gain more speed or torque?

Also, I bought the GPM front univerisal and it broke Left/Right on first day.... (What a piece of junk). And I just bended the stock blue allum front CVD. Do you guys using any other CVD which will be more durable other than stock one.
Thanks.

[Corse-R]

Originally posted by us_matrix
Speaking of gear combination.... Stock is 50/54. if i change to like what you said 21/27 and 54/58. What does it gain? Low end or high speed? Also, They have a lot of different combination. Can someone explain which combination will gain more speed or torque?

Also, I bought the GPM front univerisal and it broke Left/Right on first day.... (What a piece of junk). And I just bended the stock blue allum front CVD. Do you guys using any other CVD which will be more durable other than stock one.

Changing to a 21/27, 54/48 from the stock 22/26, 54/50 gives you two things, more low-end (because the first gear is shorter) and more high end-speed (cos, the 2nd gear is larger), but you need to have an engine capable of moving those gear combination (MT12's, Novarrosi, Mega 12 and others move without problem). This mod should be accompanied of a slight change on your clutch, installation of the hard (cooper) clutch springs, to engage at higher rpm's. The shifting should be noticed and heared (in stock config, shifting is hardly heared).

I used some GPM stuff on my cars and never suggested to any friend (well if I want to lose a friend, maybe...). I use stock blue CVD's when I use on full 4WD config, when I switch the front diff to one-way or solid axle I swap the front blue aluminium CVD's to shiny MIP CVD's (more durable, but more weight added).

[Temjin006]

Do you know which charger is better. The Tekin BC 112 C or the Duratrax Intellipeak Digital? I want a good charger for my nimh battery that i will use for the associated starter box. Also i can use it on my receiver packs.

[speedyOB-4]

Corse-r, Thank you for the info, but I got confused with this:

as rich as you can without stalling trying to not engage the second (if engages is too lean), third and fourth tank lean it a 1/8 turn (second can engage, but the engine need to '4 stroke') and not give high end.

Can you please rephrase this. Also, what is '4 stroke'? I don't understand if that's engine rpm, or stalling or what? If it's rpm, i'm going to be lost because I don't have a 4 stroke engine to compare with.

You can email me at: Ferrari_4_@hotmail.com

Thanks!
-Andy

[veesix]

Speedy, 4-stroking a 2 cycle engines just means the mixture setting is rich to the point the engine 4 strokes, or produces power on every other stroke of the piston at top dead center. You can tell when the engine does this by the sound it makes. When you run the engine at full throttle it will make a burbling sound and will not produce full power. When you check the glow plug after running it should be fairly damp both around the bottom of the plug and on the coil.

[speedyOB-4]

Thanks for the info
Much appreciated!
I can finally go break in my JP RS12.:D :D :cool:

[us_matrix]

Are you guys able to put 30mm foam tire in rear w/o any touching of the arm? Any modifiaction need? Is 30mm in rear suppose to be better handling than 26mm?

[JWF_FRANI]

i use the 30 mm fast tires with no problem i swithed to the
30mm nitroshoes and did rub just a hair so i ended up dremeling
the upright a little. going to the 30mm does have more grip.
and gives my set up a more stable rear especially on power.

[frank13]

ok i haev been reading this site for weeks now,, and i haev gotten alot of good info,, and i haev learned alot and i mean alot with trial and error,,

two speed problems,,

i realized i couldnt hear my ar shift ,, or it didnt shift at all,, well the stock setting was way off for my engine,,,,nova ct12 and mugen mt12(i haev two ntc3's.. yeah me_) well i tried everything ,, took it apart cleaned it , rebuilt it to factory setting,, i did everything but adjust it ,, and thats when the fun started ,, i tried adjusting and adjusting ,, and then realized that i was only adjusting the no.1 screw,, and not touching the no.2 screwi though one turn of the wheels took me from the first screw to the second,, and i was wrong,(not uncommon )so make sure when you adjust it you take close look at that ,,,, aslo if you hold the car in the air you can tell the car is shifting by the way the car moves in your hand .so when you run it make sure you cna feel it shifting,,

as for quality the car rocks,, i had on big crash , bent a hingepin, a pillow ball, broke a lower arm and fixed it in ten minutes,, talk about ease of use,, the car is leap years beyond other stuff i haev used, and i ran 8th scale on road,,

sorry for the babbling


frank

[fastharry]

take some red paint or nail polish and mark one of he numbers on the shoes for reference..


And I agree....I have every car on the planet....from a Veteq to a 7.5 kanai......I enjoy the tc3 more than any car I own....no other car I have seems to be as balanced

[trakhak]

Great tip on the nail polish Fastharry! Any news on the frt. bumper and the diff. between kit and rtr? Contemplating a blade kit, even thought the car handles good. I love to change set-ups!

[speedyOB-4]

Would 30mm 40 shore and 37 shore Fast Tires work well in Las Vegas?

[brassmonkey]

Hey, whats up you guys. I am going to be getting a nitro tc3 for chistmas and I was just wondering about reliability issues. An hpi rs4 rtr 3 is up on the list, but I am leaning torwards a nitro tc3 (rtr). Also what about the rally conversion? Is it really any good? Thanks in advace

[trakhak]

There is no reliability issue with a NTC3! The car is solid. There is no rally conv. or version available. It just won best Nitro RTR from another mag so it speaks volumes about this car. I can agree, tonight I set track record,TQ'ed and took home the bacon in the main. And the car made it look easy. I love this car!!!
PS: Switched to O'Donnell fuel today, after re-tuning this car was a rocket! Not one car could stay with me!! Awesome! Later!

[fastharry]

Originally posted by brassmonkey
Hey, whats up you guys. I am going to be getting a nitro tc3 for chistmas and I was just wondering about reliability issues. An hpi rs4 rtr 3 is up on the list, but I am leaning torwards a nitro tc3 (rtr). Also what about the rally conversion? Is it really any good? Thanks in advace


take it from someone who has 14 HPI's ....including a HPI SS with a RB turbo...AND 2 tc3 nitro's...


Its easier to make a cheap car out of a race car,than to make a race car out of a cheap car....


GET THE TC3 nitro!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[brassmonkey]

Thanks for the reply. trakhak, are you sure the isn't a rally conversion? I coulda sworn I saw an ad for a TC3 rally conv. on the associated site i even remember the price: $79.99:confused: I guess i better get off the nitro fumes:rolleyes:

[fastharry]

the rally conversion is for the tc3 electric car............

[brassmonkey]

whaaaaaa?:mad: :mad: :mad: I was really hoping for a rally conversion too. Oh well.

[speedyOB-4]

Would 30mm 40 shore and 37 shore Fast Tires work well in Las Vegas?