Team Losi XXXNT forum v1.0

[Matt Russell]

Nitroman-
one more thing...
if you're really frustrated, Robinson's came out with the alu diff... i have it in my truck and it works great...
that would probably eliminate any more problems.
-skip

[ 06-22-2001: Message edited by: SkipperTgore ]

[nitroman1]

Thanks everyone for the help. Gubbs, I have already replaced the idler, (compound) gear with the natural looking one. About the alu. diff. I have heard that it will melt the rest of the tranny. I guess that would be the idler only. SkipperTgore, have you had this problem? Thanks again! :D

[SirSpeedy]

You don't need an aluminum diff gear.

I do not know of anyone on the Team that runs one.

The diff, as in any diff, nitro or electric(Nairb just went through this with his electric truck), the most important thing to learn is how to adjust it properly. And keep it in adjustment as the rings wear.

Are you putting all the Belleville washers in the same way?

The order should be:
[diff nut carrier]<<<<<<<<<<<[Aluminum diff tube]

[nitroman1]

SirSpeedy, yes, I put the beveled washers in the way the instructions told me to.
{<<<<<<>>>>>>** I have heard of people putting them in the way you described, (showed). I have experience putting diffs togeather, and have never had any problems with my nxt. That is why I have been a little upset. Thanks with the advice though. :D

[SirSpeedy]

All of the washers need to face the same direction. Just like your NXT.

If you place them back to back in the middle, one will reverse into the other, and that washer will lose spring tension, thus the diff will loosen up.

The kit should have come with an addendum in the transmission parts bag that pointed this out. The manual is incorrect. You may have a kit that was produced early on, and it has been sitting in a warehouse somewhere.

[Matt Russell]

No, Nitro man, i haven't had any problems...
Although everyone seems to think it will melt the box, i haven't had one problem with it... and neither do the 15 or so guys (out of 25 or 30) at my track that run an alu diff in either the associated or losi Gas trucks.

However, that being said... an aluminum diff will NOT solve your problems if that nut is backing out on you, due to the way the washers are installed.
Sir speedy is right, you need to take care of that first. make sure you've got 'em installed the way that he posted.

I love my alu diff because
A- i don't worry about it as much, and
B- it feels and operates so much smoother than the regular diff gear.

if i were you, re-assemble those washers, and then check it FREQUENTLY for the first few times you run it (for example, every couple of minutes, then after you're satisfied it hasn't backed out any: after each tank or run).

Let us know!
-Skip

[nitroman1]

Thanks again guys! :D

[LosiXXXNT'er]

Hey guys,
I just bought the 1 deg. rear hubs, do these mount the same way as the stock ones ("R" hub on the "L" arm) or do they mount "r" on "r", in which case the ballstud will need to be turned around.

[SirSpeedy]

Put the 'R' on the right, with the ballstud pointing forward.

[losifreak2004]

Instead of the washers you can run the AE diff spring, and it is much more consistent because it does not flatten out like the washers do. I still run one washer on either side of it though.

[LosiXXXNT'er]

Thanks Sir Speedy. Thats what i had thought, just needed to make sure.
Thanks! :D

[nitroman1]

One quick question for ya guys. What are you generally running for number of turns on your spur gear? I have found that the 3 turns stock as Losi suggests is way too tight for running with a cv-r. Pulling wheelies like there's no tomorrow. Thanx. :D

[NItro-Smoke]

you mean the slipper clutch nut!! well I dont refer to the # of turns or threads showing I just set it for he condition of the track..just set it to slip for a few feet of slippage and then it should hook up and go!! I have mine set pretty tight all the time.

[Matt Russell]

What i do is to hold the spur(slipper) and clutch gear and rear tire with one hand and turn the other rear tire as if i was checking the tension of my diff. i watch to make sure the slipper "slips" (or doesn't), and adjust the nut from there.

-Skip

[gubbs3]

I never went by # of turns out either. But just as a starting point I used about two threads sticking past the nut. I think its about 4 turns out but I have no idea.

[maxim214]

i got an adeddunm in my instruction book to install all of the washhers in the same direction, my diff did suffer from total meltdown this weekend, the inside half completly separated from the outer half,
The track is usually packedclay sand mix,but rains softened the surface up and created a motocross(loamy and damp)type of surface and put extra stress on it.A new alloy gear is installed now,that cvr with slidevalve and my heavy finger didn't help
either.

[losifreak2004]

Adam Drake and Todd Hodge recommend running the slipper five turns from locked down.

[Spinner]

I run my diff totally different,,, i took one washer out, i run 10 one way, and one the other, ive had my XXXNT for a while now, havent busted one diff, and it is smoother than my friends by far

[losifreak2004]

How long is a while? Over five hours of run time?

[NitroRacer10]

Who can give me the stupid AE part number for the dif spring?? I want to try it althogh NO problems after about 4 hrs run time with dif tight 10 washers in same direction and slipper at 5 turns ( cuz Drake said so) But after my last rebuild (which i do every week) the washer were staring to really flaten out....

[maxim214]

nitroracer10
part# is 6582.
what way do ya run the washers on both sides of the spring?(///)<<like this?

[ 06-29-2001: Message edited by: maxim214 ]

[maxim214]

Ey nitrosmoke,what part of fla ya from?
I'm from st.aug, but I run in ocala,ever been there?

[losifreak2004]

Only one washer on the plastic adjuster side of the diff. The "big" wraps around the spring, not recessed into it. That is the only one you need.

[Matt Russell]

So aaron, let me see if i got you... you put 1 washer on the adjuster side of the diff near the locknut that's encased in plastic, and 9 on the opposite side? Wow...
do the 9 face the same direction? or do you piggyback them? ie, <><><><>>? or <<><><><>?
I'm intrigued....

So here's the update on the truck:
Bad luck last sunday, blew my motor up after only 2 gallons of BT. have sent it back to HPI so they can see if it's their fault that the lower connecting rod bushing went, or if it's mine....
meanwhile... i've ordered a OS 12 hyper slide carb, which will hopefully be here today... gotta wait a few hours to give UPS a chance to deliver and then i'll give them a call from work.

re:handling. thanks for all the help on getting this truck dialed guys...
before the motor seized up sun, i think i have finally got my suspension set. switched the 56 pistons to the front, bought 54's for the back, red spring Fr, and pinks Rear with 35 oil. also switched the Rear upper shock mount location to all the way to the inside. it's dialed baby, dialed...

gubbs and andy, thanks for all the heads up and info... those hubs are mounted forward now as well.

so anyway, just wanted to vent a little.

anyone running the OS 12 hyper?
i think it's gonna be mint!

-Skip

[losifreak2004]

No, that is only when you run the AE diff spring. If you use the washers they all need to go the same way.
With the spring (////) go like this:
<////

With no spring like this
<<<<<<<<<<<<

[jingle]

anybody try the new 0 or 2 deg trinity hubs yet on the xxxnt?

[NItro-Smoke]

Hey Max, I race down in Fort Walton Beach area....do you know where that is??

[NItro-Smoke]

Hey Max, I race down in Fort Walton Beach area....do you know where that is?? http://www.contrabandent.com/pez/otn/evil/fork_off.gif

[purplerides]

jinge - i got the new mounts , but you said tried them , i haven't tried them because since i put them on it's rained the past two race weekends :mad: :mad: it's supposed to be sunny and 98 deg, tommorrow so i guess i'll get to try them tommorrow i'll let you know , i'm trying the 0 deg. first.

[Zedstr]

anyone have a recommendation on the trinity rear pivot block or is the stock one or graphite just as good or better?

[Matt Russell]

Not sure about the trinity, but i just switched to the graphite block (broke the stock one) and will let you know.
what's the trinity made of?
-SKip

[NItro-Smoke]

Skip--I have seen people break both of the pivot blocks (stock/graphite) SO before mine broke in the heat of a race I went ahead with the trinity block which is made of Blue Aluminum--very good looking and Im sure plenty strong--should not see any problems with this one---I got it for 22.00 @LHS http://www.plauder-smilies.de/yellows/a_smil17.gif

[losifreak2004]

Jingle- I almost always run the 1 degree Losi hubs, the two's when the track is really loose (like the Nats)

I have the Trinity pivot block (front and rear) on both my trucks, and they won't budge. It is a great replacement for a broken pivot block.

[NItro-Smoke]

They make a front pivot block as well???? I just upgraded to the graphite front end--whats the part # for the front end you have??is it aluminum??

[Grudly]

Bought myself a XXXNT last night, this thing looks killer! I've read a bit in this topic about the "monster" diff gear needing replacing right away. What are you guys replacing it with?

Anyone know if my MIP CVD's from my NXT will fit in this thing? I thought this truck would come with some in the box... not dogbones...

[ 07-02-2001: Message edited by: Grudly ]

[LosiXXXNT'er]

After i re-built my diff, i never had problems with the diff gear. I had built it the way the book said, so the screw backed out and caused me to fry the diff.
Most of the pros are running the stock dogbones, not CVD's. Take a look at the setups from many of the big races... Just food for thought

[losifreak2004]

Also, the first cars had rings that were too small, the new diffs should last fine. When you get to that part of assembly check back here for some tips before you build it.

CVD's hinder suspension movement on rough tracks, which most gas tracks are. The only advantages of CVD's are increased forward bite and the car squares up after a corner easier.

[Grudly]

Oops, mispost.... :)

[ 07-02-2001: Message edited by: Grudly ]

[Matt Russell]

grudly, i believe that the dogbones are the same between the NXT and the 3X-NT... i just replaced one, and the part # is the same.

Thus, i would think that the MIP cvd's would probably fit, unless they changed the rear hub carrier.
just a guess... :p

guys?
-Skip

[Grudly]

I'm gonna tear my NXT all down today and clean it up anyway... it took a nasty beating at the Roar nationals this weekend. Time to retire it! I'll check if the CVD's fit, and I'd rather use them since the stock dogbones I got with this XXX don't spin very well at all. =(

[Grudly]

Do your guy's rear springs touch the rear turnbuckles and snag on them once in a while?

[rcboy618]

nope, it never touches.

[Ricerocket]

MIP CVD's for the NXT will work in the XXX-NT, but don't go very far into the outdrives. :D

[losifreak2004]

Nitro-smoke, I will get the part # for the front block.

All-The CVD's from the NXT will work, but they aren't really needed. Stick with the Losi bones.

[Grudly]

I got a bunk XXXNT kit! Went out today to break in a new piston and sleeve in it and found that the oring of my gas tank leaks, the inner clutch bearing siezed within 2 tanks of gas. And the tuned pipe leaks at that little raised ridge... must be a crack in it or something. Grr! :mad:

[illbreakit]

Must be a Losi----I mean Lemon LOL J/K Hey hope you have better luck Grudly, BTW how bad was your sleeve of your mt 12? Reply to me @ the reginal forum, I just logged on and seen you were the last to reply here

[losifreak2004]

Grudly-We can fix that stuff no problem. Check your mail.

[Spinner]

When i say ive run mine i mean ive run a couple gallons through it.. maybe 8-12 hours of total run time.....

My diff is

<>>>>>>>>>>

One faces opposite.... ten stacked up

[losifreak2004]

Spinner-I've heard of a few people doing that, but I don't recommend it. If you are having good luck with it that's great, but it is safer to go with Losi's suggested method, or the AE diff spring.

Just curious, as I am always trying to find out better stuff, did you do anything else differently? I have a whole list of things people have tried.......

[SirSpeedy]

Grudly-

I have been saying this for some time on this site. I can not imaging anyone calling Losi and not getting excellent service. Bill Goldsmith is a class act.

[purplerides]

grudly - your post about the rear springs hitting the rear camber turnbuckels , i think you'll find you have the hub carriers on the wrong side , for the XXXNT the left (L) carrier goes on the right side of the vehicle the right (R) carrier goes on the left side of the vehicle the carriers were orig. designed for the electric series vehicles. That's the only thing i can think of that would cause that problem , check it out.

[Grudly]

I just got off the phone with Bill at Losi and I've gotta say they have some great customer service! I told him about my leaky fuel tank, leaky tuned pipe and siezed clutch bearing and no questions asked the guy just shipped me new ones! I'm impressed! :eek: :D

[Grudly]

Hey I think yer right, silly me... putting the one with the "L" on the left side of the truck. :)

[NTRacinGuy87]

OK everyone, ive beeen tryin to get in this forum thing forever... yes!!!!!!! anyway im havin the roar regoinals at my local track and i nedd some good luck. i have a llosi xxxnt and a mp 7.5 kania edition (its gas only). my qeustion is, is the picco rear exaust .12 any good? thats the new engine i got and i wanna know if it will compete with the new nova rossi's. :D

[NTRacinGuy87]

Oh yeah what tuned pipes are all you guys running? the guys at my local hobby shop said that the rb x 12 had tons of punch and thats exactly what i need.


p.s. SirSpeedy - you are awesome!!!!! ive read alot og your posts in everything, good job!!! :)

[losifreak2004]

I've heard nothing but bad stuff about the RB pipe. If you want bottom end go with the Trinity or AE pipe. The stock Losi pipe has nice top-end, but the pipe will hit on the power closer to when the motor does, and this will cause the tires to break loose, which gives you a feeling of more bottom end.

You can look at a pipe this way: the longer the coned area of the pipe the later the power hits.

[losifreak2004]

Also, the part number for the Trinity aluminum front pivot block is TK5009

[NTRacinGuy87]

ok thanx for the help ill stick with the rb then. i tryed the ae and trinity. i didnt like them that much :)

[wjj]

has anyone else had problems with their clutch bearings burning out? i had that happen to me, i went to the hobby shop and bought two sets of bearings and they both burned out on me, do anyone know why this happens, is it the bearings or the shaft, is their a third party thats makes bearings for the losi truck?

[NTRacinGuy87]

Does anyone have the Nova Rossi RS .12 T? Is the Picco Rear Exaust .12 as good as it?

Thanx

[Grudly]

My old NXT went thru about 6 clutch bearings within 3 gallons... and this new XXXNT kit I just got, the inner clutch bearing siezed within a few tanks while I was breaking in a new piston and sleeve. I asked the guy at Losi and he told me it's just from extreme RPM which didn't really make much sense considering I was just letting it sit there idling. Wish I knew why this happens, my clutch bearings always seem to break! Little metal rings and stuff always seem to pop off them. I guess they have some new prototype clutch bell though that uses normal bearings instead of those flanged ones, hopefully that will work better and they will be available soon.

[Grudly]

Ack! I drilled my body mount holes the other day on top of the dimples in this thing like the book says, and today after painting my body and cutting it all out, the dumb thing doesn't fit on the mounting pegs... The back posts fit ok, but the front ones are way off, looks like the holes in my body should be moved forward by like a 1/4 inch. Anyone else have that happen?

[maxim214]

wjj&grudly ,Samething happened to me when i was at a local track,luckily for me another racer gaveme two,one of which being teflon sealed,and the're still in the truck,you can get some from dynomite,pt#dyn3110,I can't tell ya how they work yet as the donors are still in use,when you do get new ones use
mobil 1 motor oil one drop per bearing.
Also if you installed a used motor in the truck check the rear crank bearing, I was lunching ceramics in my gt until closer inpsecton,the bearing had 1/32" radial play and caused the havoc.

[NTRacinGuy87]

i just got back from the regoinals and i broke all of my poor cars! those 45min. mains are brutal! i ripped my exaust coupler in the xxxnt and i broke a front pivot block in the 8th scale. i wwas leading both times iwth 2 min. left........all that driving for nuthing!!!!!

[losifreak2004]

From what I've heard the new clutch bells are out, and they do use unflanged bearings. I've had one on my truck since February and the bearings have lasted the same amount of time, no problems.

[NItro-Smoke]

this is the first I heard of new clutch bells out!! are they made by losi? and what is the part number for them? I guess Im lucky because I have run the same losi bearings in mine for 2 gallons so far...But as I say this and I have a race this weekend I may be trouble...later :eek: :D :D

[wjj]

were can i get the new clutch bells?

[losifreak2004]

Robinson clutch bells will work, but the new Losi ones should just be updated versions of the present ones and use the same part #.

SirSpeedy-You truly amaze me. You help more people on here then anyone knows. I got your back buddy!!!!!!

[SirSpeedy]

Yeah..thanks...

I don't hit this thread much...not too much to say really....

The NT formula is pretty simple... Buy the kit, some Ti Ballstuds and turnbuckles, get a CVR, run the old NXT header, and the Losi or new Picco pipe. Oh yeah, and run Adam's setup everywhere...lol....It'll be DIALED!!

[losifreak2004]

Yeah, but even more simple than that....you build it, you run it, you win ;) :D

Now, the lol after the comment about Adam's setup. All the Losi guys down here run it religiously, but this is Adam's home also. Anyone anywhere else have luck with it? I love it.

[ 07-12-2001: Message edited by: Aaron Waldron ]

[NItro-Smoke]

Adam has two setups listed...which ones do you run?? and yes out of the box its a winner--I can say thats a fact! :D :D

[SirSpeedy]

AW-

I run it most of the time. It just works. Even Matt, aka the king of wierd setups, runs it....lol....

[Zedstr]

anyone get the Lunsford titanium screws yet? i was thinkin bout gettin up and was looking for some feedback. i'd say i have probly 6 screws from the kit that i still use that have been dremeled to take a flathead 'cause i stripped em out. ;)

[Grudly]

Had a strange problem today at the races... I was driving the best I ever have today when alluva sudden my truck slowed to a halt and wouldn't move, just as the marshal was about to remove it from the track, it started rolling again and seemed fine for a minute or two.

Then on another lap after a hairpin corner right before an uphill slope my truck started to act as though the slipper clutch was way too loose. I'd gas it and it would hardly move and it made a strange noise, not a high pitched whine like a diff, but a slipper kind of noise. I decided the club race wasn't really worth doing any damage to my truck so I pulled it off to see what the problem was and the diff seems perfectly normal, the slipper is the same tightness as my previous runs and nothing in the drive train was binding, and the flywheel seems to be tight. I'm confused... :confused:

Any ideas what else this could be caused by, or something I may have overlooked?

[Matt Russell]

Grudley - did you check the clutch itself?
would the truck accelerate normally if you were to hold it up in the air and rev the throttle?
-Skip

[Grudly]

Hmm checked the spur gear, it's fine... My clutch seems fine as well. Any other ideas? I'm kind of ruling out a stripped gear cuz the truck still works, just once in a while it slips like crazy, but then after a bit it will work again. :confused:

[andy51289]

sounds like there is one or two gears on the spur gear that is stripped.

[Nitro-Smoke]

I would say that if you dont see any visable problems on the outside, tear the tranny down and check the gears inside, you may have a diff going out!! Its probably time for a rebuild anyway---right! :D :D

[Grudly]

Well, after tearing my truck apart and putting it back together without finding anything wrong, I ran it for a while and it had no problems, then after a bad landing after clearing the triple at our track, the problem resurfaced. I turned my truck off for a few minutes, then when I went to start it again I found that the flywheel was loose. My crankshaft had backed out of the engine just enough for it to not be noticable, but enough for the flywheel to come loose once in a while. Thanks for the help guys, happy racing! :D

[wjj]

i was thinking of puting some street tires on my truck since i do alot of parking lot driving in the city (seattle), so i was wondering if i need to change any gears?

[andy51289]

Grudly- Check your spur gear. It may be stripped. The same thing happened to me.

[losifreak2004]

Zedstr-I use the Ti screws all the time, good stuff.

[Zedstr]

thanks man.. i was beginning to feel my post was lost in the wind. actually my screws should get here anyday now. do you think i should invest in some hex drivers for these screws? i haven't put any money into tools since i'm always breakin one thing or another. i was just thinkin that my allen wrenches might be too soft to crank titanium.

[Spinner]

Grudly, how far ot are u running the slipper, im saying this because when u take a hard hit if u have the slipper 4 or more turns out, the centrifugal force can ever so slightly push the sput gear out against the slipper spring which lets the inner pad (closest to car) get off of the spur which wound cause it to slip like crazy for the few seconds until it gets realigned in the notches... consider tightening up the slipper

[Grudly]

I run my slipper about 5 turns out, works great on our track... the problem from before was that my flywheel had come loose... Stupid MT12 crankshaft backs itself out every once in a while... I should Loctite it, but I don't think that'll help much since it just gets hot all the time anyway. :)

[NitroRacer10]

Aaron...or anyone else that wants to comment on this matter.......Do you really like your OSCVR that much???? I have a picco and I HATE that motor... it gives me sooooo many problems. It is always leaning out for NO reason and it is set rich as **** ....I mean I will go over a jump let off throttle and whhhheeeeennnn I am fed up. The carb is sealed and shouldn't have an air leak. I heard a few rumors of the fuek tank may casue the problem(lid doesn't close right and moving the pressure fitting) but NO one else says they have this problem.... I NEED a new motor bad and I found a GREAT deal on CVR with slide carb for $124.99 I just dunno what to do...I had a NovaMega in my Impulse and LOVED it so thought about a Nova based motor but dunno b/c of RE not fiting right with the body? I just need some input from others. My buddy says Nova or RB and I had a Nova/Serpent motor and I am and ALL confused. Please help!!!

[Shky]

Try a OS Hyper 15, you will have all the bottom end you need. :)

[NitroRacer10]

it has to be a 12 I only race

[NitroRacer10]

Also rotary or slide??? I have driven onroad a bit with a slide and have learned throttle control. Is a slide carb a big problem for 2wd offroad or can I just use exp on radio to help it? Thanks!

[andy51289]

NitroRacer10- I would wait for the OS rear exaust. It'll be awesome!

If you want a .15, it'll be legal for the Watermelon Classic. (you'll be there, right?)
Thats what AtomicBill said anyways...

[ 07-20-2001: Message edited by: andy51289 ]

[gubbs3]

Hey everyone! I just got back from a 2-week vacation to nothern Minnesota! I had a blast up there. Its great to see how busy you guys have been.

[gumby]

What's up guys I got a question.What are the differences between running your clutch in the trailing or leading position?

[SteveP]

Gumby - if you flip the clutch around, it gets more grabby. It will engage more quickly, which I don't personally like too much. I prefer to run the clutch in the "trailing" position. It engages more smoothly, which prevents the rear end from kicking out under acceleration, especially when running a hi-po engine.

[NitroRacer10]

how can you tell which is trailing or leading???? I think I know but I am not POSITIVE

[gubbs3]

Trailing is when the pin leads when the engine is running and leading is when the end of the shoe leads when the engine is running. So mostly when the clutch is in the trailing position the rear part of the shoe touches first and in leading the front end of the shoe touches first. Think of it like front and rear brakes on a car. If you push the brake pedal the front brakes work and the car stops quickly like in the leading clutch position. If you grabbed the E-brake the rear wheels would lock and you would skid for a long distance just like the extra slip you get from the trailing position. If you still don't understand this you might want to get a CAT scan. j/k :D

[gumby]

Thanks alot guys!

[SteveP]

The following is a picture of clutch shoes installed in the typical "trailing" position. The engine rotates in a counterclockwise direction when looking at it from this position, so the clutch shoes would be "trailing" the clutch pin in the flywheel. If the clutch shoes were flipped around so they are in front of the clutch pin in the flywheel, they would be "leading" the clutch pin.

http://www.rcnitro.com/articles/images/clutch/clutch3a.jpg

[Turboduck01]

Does anyone here race with their clutch leading?? I've never thought of doing that.

[PlanetRC]

Which engine should i get for my XXX-NT? I had an Ofna .12 in it and it was soooo fast. I put that engine in my Nitro MT (which i am now selling, check the forsale forum). Now i need a new engine for the XXX-NT. I'm kinda low on cash, so i don't want anything too expensive. I will be racing on mostly a dirt oval, and sometimes at Englishtown in Jersey. So, should i get the OS .12 CV-X, or should i save my pennies and get an OS .12 CV-RX? Is the R just as reliable as the standard CV? please help, i want to race again very soon.

Thanks,
Steve

[losifreak2004]

NitroRacer-Look at it this way; I will only run another motor when Trinity makes me, and that won't happen until at least October when I am ending them a resume. It has great power down low, screams on top end, is very easy to tune, and holds up to high temps very well.

Zedstr-Your welcome!! What wrenches are you using?

[NitroRacer10]

Aaron_ Thanks.... I pretty much had that idea in mind and figured you would say that :) I ran a cv in my two old Gt's and didn't know what this CVR would be like. All I know is I hate my picco junk. I can get a CVR witrh slide for 124 and I thought that was a killer deal. Laterzz

[makaluch]

Speakin' of high temps, my CV-R seems to like to run around 240 or 250. Latest RCCA says thats normal. What do you guys think? That chrome sleeve sure was a bear to break in, so that makes me feel better. Oh,...how much of a difference do you feel between slide and rotary(given optimal traction).Our track here seems to not have it so i'm not "dyin" for the poweer!! Just curious. Thanx guys.Got pics? :cool:

[Spinner]

I have a CV-R and as with any "hot" (1.0+HP)
.12 motor it runs hot... i run mine around 250 and it ROARS!! Ill take a slide carb anyday... smoother response on throttle=better

[makaluch]

Thanks Spinner.So slide's better,huh?I just swapped a Mugen MT12 w/slide for a CV-R w/rotary.Anybody know where to get a new(smaller venturi)slide for that engine?Hey,is it okay to cut and solder servo wires? I just can't figure out what to do with all the wires! I've got them folded into the receiver box but it "pooches"out so I can't seal it.Help,...too much wire!

[ 07-25-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]

[makaluch]

Oops,sent it twice n cant delete it.Well, nows my chance to say THANKS to all for the juicy info on this BB.Also,nice job to Losi !Nothin compares to the XXX series!

[ 07-25-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]

[gubbs3]

PlanetRC- If you thought the Ofna engine was too fast do not go for the CV-R. These engines will have about the same top end but the CV-R will accelerate much quicker. A CV is a great engine and has a very controllable powerband that makes driving much easier.

[SteveP]

NO! Must have mo powwah!!!! :D

[Zedstr]

Aaron, i've been using plain old allen wrenches (the L-shaped ones) and getting by with em but i don't think they will stand up to these Ti-screws since i had problems with Losi screws. i just ordered a kit of associated hex drivers from tower hobbies. i hope those will work but i'm not sure. your advise would be welcome.
thanks,
Zed

[NitroRacer10]

well personally the BEST drivers I have used so far is the Integy drivers. You get like 6 or 7 drivers for 30 bucks and they ARE SWEET. Good tools just makes this hobby even more enjoyable :) Check em out!

[Spinner]

Dr,,, I zip tie all of my wires across my chassis, tight but not so tight to where the wires would stress if the chassis flexed, try zip tying them across to the opposite side of the chassis brace (secures fuel tank)

[NitroRacer10]

Well I have my own little tip to add to the above post....I zip tie all wires together in a Z or S config and put in reciever box BUT I also use a piese of foam rubber from hobbico. I cut a piece about 1/2 " widew and about 3 or 4" long put it under your reciever against chassis then put wires next to reciever and fold the foam over reciever and wires then place the cover on. It is TIGHT but it keeps all CLEAN AND wides wires GREAT :) Hope that may help a few people out

[makaluch]

Yeah,I've got it stuffed w/ foam and zipped tight too. I even drilled a hole and threaded the antenna through to keep it off of the chassis. I just cant seem to keep a seal with all that stuffed in there. Hey Aaron, do you have a part# on that NXT pipe? Also, I read something about a no-pressure tank(Kinwald). Any input on this?

[losifreak2004]

NitroRacer-you're welcome. I love that engine. Get the rotary, I can't even control the slide on that motor, and I'm smoother on the throttle than my dad!!! :D :D

Zedstr-I used those wrenches for a while, until Adam Drake frowned on them LOL. I have the Thorp wrenches, the handle in bigger and more comfortable, even on my small hands

NitroSmoke-from the top of page 9, they are the same setup. If they aren't (maybe they had the same one on accident and changed it) rn his standard one from Hemet

[losifreak2004]

DrPassNSmile-It is no longer listed on the Losi site, better start looking on E-bay LOL, I don't think it is in production anymore. There is one mroe place I can check though, I'l look when I can get the chance

Spinner-Italian motors make more power at lower temps, the CV-R just runs hot

[Spinner]

AAron, that makes no sense whatsoever... if all of the factories in italy moved to the US then theie motors would start making less power... the cv-r can hang with any rossi out there (.15)

[ritchies rc10gt]

i have a question for you guys.i have an rc10gt and my buddy wants to get the XXXNT.i was just wondering how good it is.im not here to bash the truck and say its no good.i just need some info about it i can tell him.so give me the good,the bad and the ugly stuff about it.He used to run all team losi electrics a few years ago and he likes losi and now he wants a nitro one.he just bought a GS storm,and likes the nitros so far.and also do these trucks have a spurgear cover?and if they do will it orcan it be made to fit the rc10gt?thanx in advance for the info

[makaluch]

Spinner- Ithink what he meant is it's normal for the Cvr to run great at high temps(leaner) compared to the Nova's and Picco's.I can say from experience that power (and they are more powerful) doesn't equal speed. I just swapped a Mugen(Novarossi) MT12 for a Cvr and it definately IS faster! Also,..if I'm not mistaken Aaron also runs a Cvr and is a top-notch racer.I think being fast is really in knowing and controlling a strong motor.

[losifreak2004]

Spinner-The Nova and Picco motors will make more power than the CV-R wihtout running 220 or higher, and don't have to be that hot to make power. That's all I meant.

Ritchies-I have not seen a gear cover for a gas truck, but that isn't a bad idea. The truck handles great, although some say it may have a little bit too much steering and also that the brakes could be stronger. Also, parts such as the rear shock tower and the diff have been questioned as far as durability wise. That said I wouldn't trade either of mine for anything!!!!

DrPassnSmile- Thanks for the good word!! Make no mistake, many of my sleeves aren't what you would consider "stock", but even in stock trim those engines can be extremely fast. Where they win my vote is the extremely user-friendly carb and smooth power down low.

Like Regan LeBlanc once told me, it is better to have the power and now how NOT to use it than to not have it and need it.

BTW, O.S. is from Japan. ;)

[NitroRacer10]

Aaron are you on Trinity Tech Talk?? If so I know who you are I believe :) One other thing are you sponsored by losi?? Well I am heading out to Watermelon Classic in a bit to rub tires with pro drivers for the first time. Saxton, Degani just to name a few. I am excited LOL 330 entries is gonna make for one CRAZY weekend. As far as I know there are NO Losi sponsored guys coming but this is XXXNT country and the factory AE and Kyosho guys better watch out LOL. Out of all trucks a fw weeks back 1 was AE LOL. Well enough rambling...

[SteveP]

Have any of you ever noticed the lower molded shock ends that install over the metal pivot ball are EXTREMELY loose? I just finished assembling another truck, and it concerns me that the rear shocks, which are not secured when installed without a retaining washer, can be knocked off the lower arm with the flick of a finger. I have noticed this on three trucks so far, and I'm interested to know if you have seen the same thing.

[NTRacinGuy87]

Steve - Try balancing your tires and wheels, the same exact thing happened to me. At high speed there's massive vibrations that just eat away at all moving suspension parts.(ball cups, ball studs, shock balls ect.)

[Grudly]

Never had that problem Steve... Mine are very tight.

[gubbs3]

Steve- I only had that problem with one of the eyelets on my xxxnt. If you can't replace them right away use a washer from the diff. They fit perfect and since they are concave they allow plenty of room to avoid binding the suspension.

[Matt Russell]

Steve- i've had that problem with both of them. i'm currently running a washer on each side to stop them from popping off. works good, but i don't feel like changing to new ones if they're the same plastic as stock. does RPM make any?
oh, and BTW - the ones in the front get pretty loose too.
-S

[losifreak2004]

NitroRacer10 - Yes I am, under the name of Losifreak2004, that was mine for a while, but I want to change it to my real name. As far as I know all of us are either burnt out on big races, or going to another one that weekend (me includedin that one). I hope to make it out to WC7 next year....

Steve, i use the Rocket City ends on the rear shocks, and always use a washer to hold it in place, although they are tight anyway. They are also longer so you don't have to unthread them 4 turns. Your LHS can get them through Horizon

[makaluch]

On the rear shock issue Steve mentioned - the captured ends suggested by Aaron sound to me to be the best solution. However, I might have an alternative. I had a problem with a shock popping off in one of our informal races. I noticed that the balls lost their hard-coat and were sloppy. My solution was to replace the ends and balls, back the ends out four turns, add a worn diff washer, and after tightening the balls, back out the screw 1/4 turn to allow the ball to move on the screw.I haven't had a problem since.
[ 07-28-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]

[ 07-28-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]

[SteveP]

NTRG87 - I do balance the wheels, but I'm talking about a brand new truck, no one that's got some wear and tear. I guess I'll have to buy some new shock ends and weed out the loose ones.

[NTRacinGuy87]

Steve - OK I thought you ment a car that had some wear and tear BUT they did come loose on me after one day of racing becuase of unbalanced tires. Well I can't help on this one. But I'll look into it. CYA

[Grudly]

So how do you guys go about balancing tires anyway? Mine are crazy wobbly. :D

[Zedstr]

balancing tires is painful and tedious. i wouldn't worry about it.

[PlanetRC]

NEW BODY FOR XXX-NT!!! Look on Horizon's site...there is a new body made by Losi for XXX-NT owners who run on road rear exhaust headers, i guess it give more clearance? Anywho...heres a pic, its called Triton-NT.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/shared/productimages/losa8025-350.jpg

[T3RACERV1.20]

I am selling a month old xxx-nt which has had a half gallon of fuel through it. The reason I am selling is because since I am still in high school and no job I can not pay for parts and is very hard to tune. With the truck I am including these parts:
O.S. hyper .12 non pull start
Dynamite Ready start starter box
Glow plug ignitor with charger by dynamite
Full Lunsford turnbuckels and hing pins
1 set of extra tires
and one dynamite fast fuel bottle
and novak XXL FM recevier
I am asking $550 or best offer for a great truck
For more info e-mail me at Worsracer1@aol.com

[purplerides]

balancing tires isn't that much of a pain once you do a couple and get the hang of it , i use an old prop balancer , for the tires that are a little out of balance i use a little shoe glue if it's really out of balance i put some lead tape i get from a golf shop or a place like sports authority for weighting golf clubs or tennis rackets, and i stick the lead into the glue so it won't fly off , you would be suprised how out o balanced some are , i'm not talking out of round but balanced.most only take me 2-3 minutes per tire to balance and i notice a little difference.

[makaluch]

Drake's setup is justawesome! The front camber links moved out and I popped on sone 1deg rear hubs,..HOLY S**T what a difeference!I just spanked everyone today.I can lean into the corners early and I can roll on the throttle heavier cuz I square off sooner. I can't believe how adjustable this truck is. I just love winning all day !!!And,..the only thing I worked on was a ball cup, and I just popped it back on !

[IceMan5]

hey guys i just bought a xxxnt and its great. I have a O.S. .12 hyper I have a xxxt also but this is so much better wit gas. I'm goin to my track 2morrow and gonna see how it holds up. http://members.tripod.com/pitmonkey911/id2.htm check my friends web site out wit the pics, its under Iceman0502's trucks

Nick

[gubbs3]

I've heard the xxxnt drives very much like the xxxt which is what you would think anyway. But the best feeling you would get is if you were driving a gtx or nxt and then upgrade to the xxxnt. Good choice going to gas. You might even find yourself thinking,"Why did I spend all that money on batteries?" Have fun!

[makaluch]

I read somewhere that Kinwald (I believe) runs a zero pressure tank. Is there any info on this ? I've already moved my pressure fittint to the cap and it REALLY DOES HELP. My motor stays in tune better. I don't run any different at 1/4 tank then at a full tank. However, with a dual chamber, high pressure pipe, I still have a hard time with foaming. Zero pressure ??? Is it a reality ??

[IceMan5]

hey guys i took the new truck to the track and this handles the same as my electric with all stock settings, and my electric can not get any more steering. This is a great truck.

Nick

[xxxnt_guy]

NTRacinGuy87 why not have both? The flywheel size is the same for the pull or non pull start engine. Also the engine mounts are the same. So using a pull or non pull start does not place the engine higher on the mounts. Did I misunderstand your reply?

[ 08-03-2001: Message edited by: xxxnt_guy ]

[andy51289]

xxxnt_guy- To use a pull start, you must have spaces on the engine mount to allow room for the pull start mechanism. If you dont have those spacers on the engine mounts, the pull start won't fit. The spacers raise the engine higher off of the chassis, and in turn raises the flywheel. The wheel on the starterbox will not reach high enough in the chassis to tough the flywheel if the spacers are still on the engine mount.

Remove those spacers (refer to the manual for help) and remove the pull starter, and add a backing plate where the pull start WAS, and you're done!

[wjj]

the engine mounts for pullstart and non pullstart are the same. you can use a starter box with a pullstart engine because the engine sits at the same height.

[xxxnt_guy]

andy51289 I initially put the engine in without the spacers (don't now why I did this first of all?) :confused: and the engine fits fine. I also ran the truck a couple of times with no problems. I guess I lucked out there...so now the engine is mounted like a non pullstart without the spacers and still the two wheels don't meet? Should I trim some of the rubber off the wheel?

[xxxnt_guy]

wjj do you use a starter box? if so which one?

[Grudly]

xxx-nt guy what's causing the wheels not to touch each other? I use an ofna starter box as well, and it took me a while to get the pegs lined up correctly with this truck, the wheel kept bumping into the chassis before touching the flywheel, try moving it around a bit without the pegs mounted and see if you can find a spot where it works. It's much easier if you take your engine off first, but that's kind of a pain. :)

[xxxnt_guy]

Grudly I have about less than a 1/4 inch before the wheels meet and that is having the car rest on the starter box flat on no pegs. I called the folks at Losi for any suggestions and they told me since the rubber wheel is new I would have to cut it down till the wheels meet then I should be OK. Can it be possible that I can cut the rubber wheel down to the metal and still not be able to use my starter box? :D I guess I will find out soon.

[Grudly]

Umm, you know that the lid of the starter box pushes down right? That way the rubber wheel sticks out above the top of the starter box lid. If the rubber wheel isn't coming into contact with any part of your truck at all, then something's pretty strange there. I don't see any reason why you would have to cut the wheel unless it was bumping into the bottom of the chassis.

[xxxnt_guy]

Grudly I'm sorry I guess I need to be more specific. The truck is bumping into the bottom of the chassis once I press down on the box.

[Grudly]

Heheh I still don't get it. :confused:
If you push down on the truck when it's on the box, the wheel should come up through the hole in the truck chassis. If the wheel doesn't come up high enough, it must be hitting the chassis of the truck.

I would suggest just wiggling it around a bit until you find the spot where the wheel touches the flywheel without hitting the chassis. Are you using a different flywheel than the one that came with the XXXNT?

If ya still can't get it right, I would just take the engine off your truck and line it up then when you can see it all clearly, mount some pegs and put the engine back on.

[xxxnt_guy]

Grudly I this problem sounds crazy! :D OK here is what i do. I put the truck on the box (on no pegs), press down and see the starter wheel pop up and into the hole on the bottom of the truck. The hole is lined up so the starter wheel goes in the hole to turn the flywheel. However since the starter wheel is too big, the starter wheel never really comes through the whole enough to turn the flywheel, it just grinds against the trucks two edges along the hole. The only option I have is to grind or cut the rubber wheel down a bit till it can reach and spin the flywheel. Oh I am also using the stock flywheel that came with the kit.

[makaluch]

I also use an Ofna box and had problems. You can see the wheel w/o the body on, I didn't need to pull the motor. On the Ofna box the left rear wheel slightly touches the single motor( if thats the box you have). I also beveled the edges of the chassis , at the flywheel opening, because the Ofna wheel is JUST wide enough that you have to be perfect to bump. Hope I've helped.

[makaluch]

The rear wheel touching the starter motor also twists the chassis slightly away from you.. Lean the car towards your belly slightly when bumping. Are you even using the single motor box?

[xxxnt_guy]

DrPassNSmile I have the ofna pink narrow starter box for 1/10 scale cars/trucks. I saw a tip somewhere about beveling the opening on the bottom ofthe truck. However I really don't want to start cutting or grinding off part of the truck's body yet. :cool:

[SteveP]

I'll take your word that the engine is mounted without the spacers for a pull-start engine. Your problem is you're trying to start the engine without alignment peg in the starter box. There's less than a 1/4-inch margin of error when uing a starter box, so if you're a little as 1/8-inch off front or back, the starter wheel is going to hit the chassis instead of the flywheel. Trust me on this one; I spent all of last weekend starting my XXX-NT with a Nuova Faor starter box, which has the biggest freakin' starter wheel I've even seen in a starter box. You problem is not the size of the starter wheel, it's proper alignment with the starter box.

[xxxnt_guy]

Hi all I am new to the off road scene, I just spent the last hour or so reading most of these posts and got a lot of useful info from you all thanks. I too am owner of a XXX-NT running with an OS .12 CV-RX. So far I am happy with it. My question is I just bought a 1/10 Ofna starter box. I had to get a starter box because I find it easier to start the car with the box and use the pull start on the track just in case I stall or something. However, the rubber wheel does not make contact with the flywheel? Any suggestions? :confused:

[NTRacinGuy87]

OK... you cant have a pull starter on your motor to use a starter box first of all. You can buy a backplate for your motor to convert the motor to a non-pull start. Or you can take the starter box back and not you it.

[NTRacinGuy87]

OK xxxntguy i was like half asleep when i answered you lol. anyway i just got back from the races. my new piico ran great and i broke no parts :eek: thats a first for me lol. and i got into the a-main and got second, as i qaulified 2nd too. it was a very fast race,...... but the mod buggies were like 2 laps faster lol. i cant find the 7.5 forum so ill right about it in here well it was my first time in expert and me being only 14 got 2nd place :eek: i think i always under estimated myself.and it my first year doin 18th scale. eh i also raced mod truck... what a nightmare ill be at the xxxt furon for that.


ok as for an idea i came up with to save all rear exauast guys out there! ok on your rear exaust manifold you know how it curls around and such, well you can just cut it to a 25 degree angle rather than it having to curl aroung and when ever you hit the ground you will risk ripping your exaust coupler. its happened to me and this other guy. you will lose bottem end torgue but if can think of a better idea come to me cuz i need it.


also! has anyone tried the new xxxnt body from horizon? its supposed to accomidate rear exaust engines better then the standard body and im also assuming that its even thicker...

well thats about it cya.

wes

[NTRacinGuy87]

Well someone has to have a comment here!

C'mon let's keep on posting!

[makaluch]

I ran a Mugen MT12 for awhile and that rear manifold curls pretty high. I've never seen any other rear manifold, but I never had problems when I had mine in. I seem to remember it curling about 1/4 to 3/8 above the bottom of the chassis. I also know that the manifold is short and promotes too much torque,...especially with the slide carb I had.

[xxxnt_guy]

Can any one recommend some brand or website that makes cool bodies for the XXXNT? I saw the new body that Losi put out. Looks cool. Will that fit trucks with a side exhaust? Thanks. :)

[NTRacinGuy87]

xxxntguy -

the name of the company is novak. I havent used them but they are very conveinent looking.

Drpassandsmile -

just cut the manifold and make it look like a 45 degree angle instead of it curling around and risk hitting the ground when you bottem out, then the coupler will tear.

[NTRacinGuy87]

xxxntguy -

on www.horizonhobby.com (http://www.horizonhobby.com) they have a new body out for the xxx-nt.

[Spinner]

Yes, the company is novak and its the XXtra Synthesized receiver, has 5 channels, very useful for airplanes as well

[xxxnt_guy]

Has anyone out there used the crystaless receivers on any of their trucks yet? I forgot the brand name sorry.

[rcracer38]

Does anyone know where I can get the XXX-NT setup from Matt Francis? I have looked on the Team Losi site and it is not there. Thanks....

[losifreak2004]

I'll try to find it for you. Steve ylund may be of some help in this problem too LOL

[gubbs3]

Rcracer- I'm pretty sure I know Matt's setup:

Front- upper shock #2, lower shock inside, camber link inside #3 with 3 washers, outside middle, hubs low, orange spring, 56 pistons, 35 oil.

Rear- upper shock outside, lower shock outside, camber link inside middle (outside for more traction), outside is on outside, pink spring, 40 piston, 40 oil.

If you aren't sure about this send me an e-mail for the setup sheet.

[SirSpeedy]

Pretty much the whole Losi team is running a mild variation of Adam Drakes standard setup.....which is available on the Losi site....

Unless Aaron wants to recite it by heart here for you :^)

[makaluch]

Is Matt Francis' setup specialized ? It seems pretty "off" to me. What kind of tracks and terrain is he typically racing on ? (40 piston, 40wt ???)It's good to see ya back Aaron. Vacations are always a good thing even if you don't go very far. LOL

[ 08-07-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]

[NTRacinGuy87]

Francis's standard setup is like the Holy Setup of all setups at my local track. We have hard packed hi-grip track with huge jumps.

[losifreak2004]

People missed me? LOL cool!

It was a six hour drive, so it was kinda far away

Adam's setup - http://www.teamlosi.com/pictures/jpegsetups/xxxNT/xxx-nt_std_adam.jpg

Travis and Adam ran that exact setup at the Shootout, which was blue-groove and had some good jumping sections (nothing big really) and they did very well with it LOL.

[rcracer38]

Hey, NTRacinGuy87, your from Baldwin, MO? Im in St.Charles...hehe... Do you race at Greentree?

Yea, the Matt Francis one is the one that I want. I have not been able to find it anywhere. That is what everyone is using at our track. Alot of jumps, mogules, etc.

[NTRacinGuy87]

Hey what's your name, I didn't go to Detriot but I know alot of guys did. Yeah I'm Wes the 14 year old up there.

[NTRacinGuy87]

I usually race on Saturdays in Sportsman 1/8th, Mod Truck, and Gas Truck. But I moved to Expert while everyone was in Detriot.

[SirSpeedy]

NT-

These guys change setups quite a bit. Last time I spoke to Matt, he was recommending and using Adam's standard setup as a great place to start.

[Spinner]

Today i got in TTK brake clips, 2 degree rear hub carriers and a 17t clutch bell, all I can say is WOW

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

How come the break pad screws keep popping out on my truck?

[Spinner]

your tranny case is probably stripped, buy a new one and use RED (yes, red) loctite on the screws when u put them in

[NTRacinGuy87]

SirSpeedy - Wow you spoke to the actual Matt Francis... cooooool. I'm sorry people I meant the Drakes setup heres the link to it....
http://www.teamlosi.com/pdfs/setups/triplex-NT/xxxnt_thedirt_a.pdf

That right there is the Immaculate Setup at my track.... as we have the same track conditions and the huge jumps so it matches perfect.

[NTRacinGuy87]

Yeah I race at Greentree, do you race on Saturdays?

[rcracer38]

Yes. I just got back from racing in Detroit. There was a bunch of members from our club that went there. Probably about 12-15 racers.

[PlanetRC]

I need some set-up advice... I race on a dirt oval (clay) that is perfectly smooth in the straights, but is a little bumpy in the turns. Any help would be appreciated. Should I be using sway bars? What shock-oils and what springs? Thanks in advance.

-Steve

[makaluch]

Does anybody know how different the GTX pipe looks from the XXX pipe ? I just found a part # from Horizon and ordered one for a GTX. When it came the part # was right but the package said NXT. I know the NXT is the same as the XXX,...but I wanted the GTX ! What's up with Horizon ? The pipes are very similar, but I don't want to open the package and go through mic'ing the pipes. Are the pipes OBVIOUSLY different or just slightly ? :confused:

[Grudly]

I'm pretty sure the GTX and the NXT use mostly the same parts. I recently bought a XXX-NT and it came with the same pipe as my NXT.

[Draxx]

I have been running the MIP clutch in my GTX
for well over a year...no problems at all!!

[losifreak2004]

The two pipes are completely different. The GTX pipe is really short and the stinger is near the end.

DaLosiGuy- I would use some CA glue since you are threading it into plastic.

PlanetRC- If you really wanna get serious in the oval stuff there are tons of things you could do to make it left-turn only. I would start at something like Adam's setup (LOL) and work from there. If is really your setup that is holding you back from better finishes then I will think of some stuff to try.

NTRacingGuy-Matt is one way cool guy. You can go right up to him and talk to him, and it is as though you've known him your whole life.

[Spinner]

Heres a tip for setting up your brake in the XXXNT, instead of using the screws and nuts to secuer the brake clips, get two long caphead screws (like the ones used on the top of the chassis) and coat them with red loctite,,, then screw them into the tranny until they are snug (DONT OVERTIGHTEN) against the brake clips. Ive been doing this for a while and it works 10 times better than the stock things, it also gets moer screw into the tranny, so it is MUCH less likely to strip out

[Spinner]

yawn

[NTRacinGuy87]

Hey just got back from the races and I claimed fourth place woohoooo! yeah it was really fun, and i broke a exaust mount. thats all but i fixed it in like 5 min. newaz post on....

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Brake Problems: If I tighten the throttle linkage too much for a stornger brake it bends and the screws that hold in the brake clamps and the screws are all the way in with red loctite but the brakes aren't strong enough. :(

[makaluch]

Try the blue aluminum brake clips from Trinity. Not strong enough for what? Air adjustments? Cuz, on the ground you're probably just slididng. Servo choice matters too.With a slow servo they "feel" mushy. Try a faster one and the "feel" is more positive.

[ 08-12-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]

[losifreak2004]

DaGuy - Try fuel tubing instead of the spring on your brake linkage also. You will lose the proportional brake (either no brake or full brake) but it will hit faster

[NTRacinGuy87]

http://www.dirtburners.org/images/pits_merrivelle.html Heres my truck like 3 months ago...it still looks the same except i have a picco rear exaust now.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Im running stock 18 tooth clutch bell and I want to make it faster. Which would make it faster 17 tooth or 19 tooth?

[purplerides]

19 would be faster top end , 17 faster off the line (bottom end) you'll lose a little bottom end with the 19 it shouldn't be to bad though , be careful if your running on a tight track or tight area with a lot of slower area's the 19 will make the engine labor more , causing higher motor temps. , if you find your running more on the top end then the 19 will do fine.

how fast do you really need to go the stock 18 is plenty fast for most anything.

[losifreak2004]

Not always. Look at it this way, with a 17 your motor will rev up really high, and it will be much faster out of a corner and actually maybe have a higher top end on a track, as with the 18 or 19 you do not have the time for your engine to rev out all the way. The 19 is a good choice for a rough and/or slippery track. It will help you keep the tires from spinning.

[NTRacinGuy87]

most of the time it takes the whole straight to get up to top end so if i were you get the 17 tooth. i have a long straight at my track and i run an 18, i really need to gear down becuase i dont have enough torque but i do have enough top end. it just takes longer to get there.

[NTRacinGuy87]

Let's see some pictures of your XXX-NT's people...I can't post mine but I can tell you what's on it...

-Trinity Picco rear exaust engine
-Ti turnbuckles
-Graphite rear shockower
-Futaba 3PJS
-High torgue servo...the best one out there...
-High speed servo...also the best out there...
-Trinity aluminum rear pivot block
-Stock Body
-Proline Edge front tires
-Step Pins in the rear
-CVD's but I took them out
-Ballbearing steering
-Titanium nitride shockshafts
-RB X-12 pipe
-Modified manifold...it was a Picco manifold
-Robinson racing steel gears
-Traxxas capered ballcups...for all of you ballcup breaking guys out there use these, they will stop that immediately

Well thats about it... seeya...

Wes

[losifreak2004]

My truck was faster on a 180' straight with the 17 then it was with the 18 or 19, but it borke the tires loose easy, so I don't run it. Gear for the track, not the straight.

Recipe for one fast XXX-NT:
-OS CV-R
-Polished AE header
-Polished GTX pipe/ Purple AE pipe
-Yellow Losi ballcups up front, Rocket City captured ends on the rear (also on the rear shock shafts so you don't have to unthread them)
-Lunsford Ti turnbuckles and hingepins
-Losi titanium nitride shock shafts
-threaded shock bodies with Trinity collars
-yellow bumper
-purple Ofna air filter and pressure fitting on tank lid
-Trinity Aluminum brake clips
-MIP/Losi shiny dogbones
-Trinity Nitro Metal Hydride receiver pack
-Futaba S9304 throttle and S9402 steering servos
-M8 radio and stock blue receiver
-Trinity aluminum pivot blocks front and rear
-Assorted Lunsford Ti screws along with stainless steel and purple hardware
-Adam Drake's standard Hemet setup

[NTRacinGuy87]

Nice truck Aaron Waldron, I had a CV-R and it was the first motor I had ever blown up. Yup now I believe in throttle return springs...hehe. And one thing I forgot to mention was I have Adam Drakes "The Dirt" setup.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

What is the part number for Trinity's aluminum front and rear pivot block and the 0 degree hub carriers? Also can you tell me the prices?

[makaluch]

DaLosiGuy - You HAD the CVR? What do you run now ?NTRacinGuy - stock hubs are 0 degrees. One degree (plus Trinity 2deg pivot block) hubs are what you're looking for. Part # is on page 6 or 7 of this thread.Aaron - do you have a part # for the threaded Trinity shock collars ? Or do you suggest I get lost in that Trinity site ? LOL.GS makes some pretty cool, assorted color, collars for the linkage. Mine are blue. :) Mark

[ 08-14-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]

[primuswoostinkinhoo]

so yeah my truck wasnt turing to sharp so i raised the back end a lil bit bones just above leval put 25 wieght oil in the front and put the arms at leval and it seemed to be able to corner faster but i dunno what do u guys sugest? its a xxxnt of course, with a nova c12

[losifreak2004]

Primus- What setup were you at? Try adding one mini washer under the front of the pivot block, and that will also give you more forward bite. You can take a washer out from under the front inner ballstud, move the ballstud on the bellcrank to the inside hole, lower the front ride height, and raise the front spindles, but don't do any of that until I know what setup you're running, because those will also sacrifice rear traction, driveability, or rough track handling. Also, what steering servo/ radio do you have?

I'll start working on those part numbers, they aren't on the Trinity site yet, so I have to use "the untapped resource" LOL. I do know the 0 degree hubs are TTK5102, and all pivot blocks are two degrees both toe-in and antisquat.

NTRacinGuy87- Sorry to hear you lost a great engine. I use the stock return spring, and it is enough to pull the S9304 throttle servo in my truck back to where it needs to be. It can't pull it back if the servo is in use though.

Keep the questions coming guys. This is fun. Great forum, keep it up!!!

[ 08-14-2001: Message edited by: Aaron Waldron ]

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Aaron Waldron, can you tell me the part numbers for both the front and rear pivot block? :)

[purplerides]

Trinities part #'s all xxx series vehicles front pivot TK5009 , xxxnt rear pivot block TK5056 , there new hubs are dialed i use the 0 deg. ones i have the 2 deg. i haven't tried them yet but i also lost the part# , my buddy tried them he has two trucks the truck with the 2 deg. he said got REAL loose under braking.

Aaron ? i thought the rear pivot blocks where 3 deg. toe and 2 deg. anti squat i could be wrong no doubt just curious.

[purplerides]

also got the new front C-hubs that you can use an (optional) AE kingball set-up with it , sorry lost the part # for that too...LOL i don't have a updated trinity product listing.

[NitroRacer10]

I agree with prple...Drake told me rear pivot blocks were 3 deg toe also!!!!

Actually...I took mine out and used my camber gauge and checked it..sure enough 3 degrees.....I thought it was 2 also until I did that!

[ 08-15-2001: Message edited by: NitroRacer10 ]

[losifreak2004]

Oh oops LOL, I didn't say two!!! I was thinking about something else, doing too many things at once. But a two degree pivot block? I might have to try to do something with that, gimme some time. We've tried weirder things, some actually work.

Sorry about not getting those part numbers, thanks purplerides. I've been sick all week, and I just couldn't get ahold of Chad. The two degree ones are TTK5103, I'd only use them when forward bite was a real problem and the track wasn't that rough. The one degree Losi hubs are the hot ticket right now.

[makaluch]

So how big is YOUR knowledge ?? hehehe,...too much ESPN. :D

[primuswoostinkinhoo]

well im running the box setup 35 wieght in back 30 up front, hole shots in the rear and the stock tires up front

[purplerides]

Aaron - if the Chad you were trying to get a hold of is the one i think you were trying to get a hold of , he was busy winning a national championship in Virginia , i race at the track he has been racing at weekly (even though he's been missing for about 5 weeks...hmmm)in Vineland N.J. , there hosting the Trinity/RCCA offroad shootout this year , two weeks from now on Labor day weekend , track is really nice try to make it if you can. check out there web site http://65.10.252.26/ubb/fh/index.html

[NTRacinGuy87]

Man that dirt looks like a golf course's grass!!! :eek: hehe.

aaron - yeah i loved that cv-r ahhhhhhhh....well the picco i run is a great motor too. i only recommend it to people who are used to extremely high power and know how to use it in the right way. also only to experienced tuners. the os is great for just about anyone i think.

[rcracer38]

I have to rebuild my diff/tranny for my XXXNT. What parts/upgrades does anyone recommend so that it will be stronger, faster, last longer, etc.

[makaluch]

Build a brand new one with an AE diff spring. Aaron and a few others know the washer configuration. I haven't done it yet, but I plan to. After 8 tanks on the brand new stock diff, I pulled it down, cleaned it up, and set it right after it starts barking. Stock seems to be fine for me. It's a good idea to go through a car on a pretty regular basis to avoid BIG problems. I'm probably just one of those guys that likes the building almost as much as the driving though.

[losifreak2004]

ESPN? Nah...SpeedVision All the way!!!

My OS is darn near as fast as any NR or Picco. Maybe not as fast, but enough to convince me that you should be able to keep up with any CV-R

rcracer38-One washer on the nut adjuster side of the spring, big side facing the spring. Use the stock grease, get one of the old black thrust bearings if you can, but it's no big deal.

purplerides-Silksmooth Chad? LOL That guy prepares WAY too much.

primus-Just something funny to try for now, move the top of your front shocks in one hole. I'll have a full list of stuff to try tomorrow

[IceMan5]

Has anyone bent their stock tuned pipe before. I did it 2day. i went off this little jump and then slid on pavement right into a pole. Here are the pics............ http://images.ofoto.com/photos134/1/39/47/17/44/0/44174739103_0_ALB.jpg
http://images.ofoto.com/photos134/1/39/37/19/12/0/12193739103_0_ALB.jpg
http://images.ofoto.com/photos134/1/39/47/32/41/0/41324739103_0_ALB.jpg

[gubbs3]

Pics don't work.

[makaluch]

I'm aware that the pics have to be on the web, but does that include those cheesy home pages alot of services offer ? Are there any descent sites to post pics? Then how exactly do you get them from the site to the BB interface ? Use the exact file address? Signed,...BehindTheTimes. :(

[losifreak2004]

I heard www.photopoint.com (http://www.photopoint.com) was the place to go.

I've never seen a bent sock pipe, but I've seen plenty of other pipes get bent.

[NTRacinGuy87]

all my pics are on www.dirtburners.org (http://www.dirtburners.org) whick is my club but they really do need to update the track pics its alot different now than it was.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

I run my truck with an OS CV-R and a MIP 360 stinger. There were these little kids watching so I wanted to run it there fast so I held the throttle all the way and it did a wheelie which made the car flip over high in the air. Why did it do this? Oh yeah it NEVER wheelies! :)

[ 08-19-2001: Message edited by: DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt ]

[ 08-19-2001: Message edited by: DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt ]

[rcracer38]

Anyone having problems with their diff? I have rebuilt it 3 times! I don't understand what I am doing wrong to cause this to keep going out. I don't have a problem with my RC10GT or my Traxxas when I had it. Is there something special that I need to do/not do? It seems to get really loose and gritty really quick. I am following the BOOK EXACTLY! Is there a aftermarket parts? I purchased the Robinson Racing diff gear, but that didn't seem to make a lot of difference. All the parts are new. It seems to keep slipping before the slipper does. I have replaced all the parts for the slipper as well. PLEASE SOMEONE HELP!!

[ 08-20-2001: Message edited by: rcracer38 ]

[makaluch]

There's a fine line between too tight and tight enough. If you tighten the diff too tight you strip the plastic lock-nut and you can never tighten it. However if you tighten 1/8 turn at a time, then check that it's just past barking. Recheck after a few tanks. Also if you've got great traction be sure your slipper is nice and lose (four threads showing). It should slip for 2 feet or so. Check the slipper pads and be sure to rough them with like 400 grit sandpaper. Don't give up yet ! The tranny isn't as fragile as you think !

[Grudly]

Hey guys, I just picked up a set of Lunsford Punisher turnbuckles for my XXXNT and I use RPM ballcups, I've run into a snag while installing them... I'm just kinda guessing that the longest turnbuckles are for the rear, the middle ones are for the steering, and the shortest ones are for the front. Am I wrong in this assumption? When attempting to install the longest ones onto the rear of the truck, they are way too long, even with the ballcups cranked on as far as they go. Anybody have some tips for me?

[LosiMan3456]

Hey guys! Well I am new to the nitro scene. I am a losi guy(hence my name) and right now I am thinking of getting the XXX-NT. I was thinking of getting the GT but I came to my senses!!! Anyways I was wondering if there are any hop-ups you would recommend to get before I buy it and build. Right now I am thinking of getting ti-turnbuckles. Is there any other hop-ups I should get. I will just be bashing and I hope to get the truck this winter/spring. Thanks in advance! :)

[purplerides]

titamium turnbuckels are the first upgrade i'd make , the trinity rear pivot block is also nice but the stock isn't bad either , you can always get one later if it becomes a problem area for you , the rest of the truck is pretty stout.

[purplerides]

LosiMan - also glad to see you came to your senses , you won't regret your decision to go with the losi.

[MAKALUCH]

GRUDLEY - I USED THE LONG ONES FOR THE OUTSIDE REAR AND THE SHORTS FOR THE INSIDE REAR. IT MAKES THE OUTSIDE WEAKER, BUT THATS BETTER THAN DROPPING INTO YOUR OUTDRIVES. I'M GETTING CAPTURED ENDS FROM ROCKET CITY AND REPLACING THE RPM'S THE NEXT TIME I BREAK ONE. I'VE NOTICED WITH ADAM'S SETUP I DON'T BREAK THEM ANYMORE THOUGH. ;)

[ 08-21-2001: Message edited by: DrPassNSmile ]

[makaluch]

Outside meaning in the hub, and inside meaning in the shock tower. Moving the ballstuds will effect your setup. In an emergency I've also cut down the long ones with an exacto knife, and for some reason they seem to get in there farther.Hope I've been clearer.

[Grudly]

Oh now I get what you mean, you were talking about long and short ballcups eh? When I was talking about the longer ones, I meant the turnbuckles, not the ballcups... =)
The turnbuckle package I got had 3 different length pairs of turnbuckles in it.

[makaluch]

OOOHHHH,...that was like "the high-five that missed" :D

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

What is the part number for Trinity's brake clips? :)

[Grudly]

Outside Rear and Inside rear? I just woke up and don't quite follow you on that one... I ended up just moving my ballstuds around a bit and managed to get all those turnbuckles installed. Thanks anyway though DrPass&Smile.

[Matt Russell]

DaLosi guy - it's TK 5059
-Skip

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Does anyone know when Trinity will make front or rear aluminum shock towers? :)

[ 08-23-2001: Message edited by: DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt ]

[gubbs3]

I doubt they will ever make aluminum shock towers. Mainly because the rear shock tower is 3-D, not the regular plate that most vehicles have which would make the tower very expensive.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

The RC10GT II forum just keeps getting closer and closer...

[makaluch]

I'm interested in knowing if there is any advantage in the graphite upgrades. I haven't had any problems with the stock equipment, but I'm thinking of using the front and rear towers for less suspension flex. The front just looks like it flexes even though I don't feel it driving. Any input? Is less weight a factor too?

[SteveP]

I just finished a project with a truck full of the graphite options. I think if you're looking to save money, you can easily do without the graphite parts. Yes, they make everything a little stiffer and possibly lighter, but you have to be a damn good driver to notice the difference. I installed the parts for bench racing! :D They rule in the bench racing world championship! :p

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

What is better running the truck with a pressure fitting on the cap or as is? And what do you do with the hole where the fuel tube originially goes? Just plug it up? :)

[makaluch]

Thanks Steve ! I think stock trim works fine for me. So how tight are the points in that bench racing circuit? lolIt really depends whether you need it or not. This depends on what motor and pipe you're using too. I use the fitting and it worked with a shorter, baffled pipe(CVEC) but I don't need it for the stock pipe. Oh yeah, you just use a screw, an o-ring, and a touch of sealant that I bought at my LHS.

[gubbs3]

I'm not saying I'm the best driver but I'm pretty good and I have driven a XXX-NT with all the goods compared to mine which is practically stock. We both had the same setups same engine and electronics that were close. I'm betting on the graphite parts on that truck that made the difference because its was more responsive, had better steering, and was easier to drive consistently. I say for any good driver that graphite parts are a good investment but don't hit anything too hard because they don't have the extra give to prevent breakage like the stock parts.

[makaluch]

Thanks Gubbs. I guess I will replace broken or worn parts with graphite then. I'm not a racer yet so there's no real need. I'm glad to hear that graphite does make small differences that count in a big way though. Consistency is the key and that's what we're all after. Thanks again Gubbs :) Mark

[losifreak2004]

Smooth tracks, go with graphite. Rough tracks, go with stock stuff. The extra stiffness can hurt on rough tracks. Also, the thought of knowing you truck has graphite on it has more to do with the difference you "feel". Yes, you may be able to tell the difference, but it is not as much as you think. There is next to no weight advantage, possibly a few ounces if you do the whole car. When in doubt, look at it this way, Adam Drake is Losi's top gas driver, and the only graphite parts he ever uses are the front bottom plate and the rear shock tower, and those only go on for the A-Main. But then again, this is also what he and Travis ran at the HRH Shootout, which was the smoothest gas track we have raced on in a while.

The pressure fitting on the cap reduces foaming, and also pushes fuel from the front of the tank back, instead of being in the middle. Be sure to put it on the cap itself, not on the side of the filler neck.

gubbs3-The NXT tower they made was 3-D. They just didn't sell enough to make it worth it. There's not really a market for them.

[NitroRacer10]

why not put it on the side of filler neck? It didn't seem right to put it on cap becasue that is a large area to go through. Maybe I am just looking into it too much. I put mine on the filler and it seems to be just fine!!!!

[gubbs3]

Aaron- The NXT towers are just 1/8 plate aluminum machined into the shape of the tower. That meaning the original peice was 1/8 inch thick and then end peice was 1/8 thick for the entire tower. For the XXX-NT, the rear tower at the bulkhead portion is about 1/2 inch wide where the majority of the rest is about 1/8. It would take much more work to machine the peice to include the thicker part over the thinner part which has much more area, making it very spendy.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Does anyone make an anodized blue screw set for the XXX NT? :)

[NTRacinGuy87]

http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/RTR%20pics/chassis_radio.jpg Ok suprise suprise Losi just came out with a limited edition NT!! Its an RTR and it comes with a Picco .12 side exaust. It has two servos and a reciever from JR. Along with a XR-3. Looks good to me :D. For further info go to www.teamlosi.com. (http://www.teamlosi.com.)

Wes

[NTRacinGuy87]

http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/RTR%20pics/RTRside_red.jpg http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/RTR%20pics/RTRside_blue.jpg

Here are the Paint jobs that are aviable for the RTR

[andy51289]

Recipie for a fast transmission:

AE diff spring +
green sealed BOCA bearings +
Losi molded thrust bearing +

= :eek:


BTW: <<<<<<<500th post on this topic!>>>>>>>>