Team Losi XXXNT forum v1.0

[NitroRacer10]

Where can I get the molded thrust bearing?? And also who makes good balls? Should I stick with the stock losi ones or go else where? The ones with the kit are out of round and need to be replaced!

[makaluch]

I took my XXX-NT out to Bear Creek and holy cow was I unprepared. Their setup was totally strange. I looked at pics and assumed I'd have to stay softer and the track was different ! There was only two other Losi's and they were running orange out back and 40wt. It was a humbling experience though. I lost a second every two laps to a guy that runs top fives. He's a local though. The 1/8 is OUTRAGEOUS ! 1/2 a lap every 3 ! Okay, so now I know that I have alot of practicing to do !Big Fun ! Great guys out there too ! Mike from NationalRC is FAST with his 7.5KE !

[rcracer38]

What is the best way to break in my new diff? Tired of rebuilding them. It is a pain in the $#$@ to rebuild one cause you have to take the car apart to get to it.

[losifreak2004]

rcracer39-Just put them in the car tight, and check them every two minutes. Don't let them slip!!!

If you put the fitting on the side of the neck, you will elongate the filler neck into an oval shape when you tighten the fitting down, no matter how careful you are. Also, having the pressure come out underneath the cap can cause a bad seal anyway.

gubbs3- I never thought about the bottom part :rolleyes:

DaLosiGuy-Pick up some Trinity screws, I don't think they have a kit, but you can get enough to put them where you want them.

NTRacingGuy- That truck has been in the works for SO long. Dynamite had an engine all ready for it too......

Andy-Why Bocas? just gotta take care of the stock ones!!!

NitroRacer-Not sure if they still make it. They might. Check with your LHS. I've never used anything for diff balls but the Losi ones and the MIP ones.

[jingle]

does anyone run the rocket city captured ball ends? what is the part #.

thanks

[Mason Copeland]

ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo Peter said a bad word...

[NitroRacer10]

part number for the rocket city ends are...Manufacture stk#87...I run them a ll around on my truck and NO problems as of yet!!!!! Also here is a link to tower they have em in Stock! http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXEU32&P=7

[losifreak2004]

Mason-lol

I think they are A-87, A-87L for the backwards threaded one

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Does Trinity also make anodized blue nuts for the wheels and shocks? :)

[gubbs3]

I'm not sure but if they don't GS has anodized nuts.

[NTRacinGuy87]

Arent the stock nuts fine?

[athowells]

I am thinking about getting the Losi XXX-NT with Dynamite .12 speed engine. Could you tell me how good it is and if you had have any problems? Thank-you ;) :cool: :D :p

[Zedstr]

ok guys i have a newbie question for ya'll. i've been in and out of rc for over 10 years or so and have always used alkaline batteries for my servoes and such. my question is, if i decide to get the Trinity Hump pack for my truck, what kind of charger should i get to charge this bugger? also, will the charger come with the right connectors or will i have to make one or what? suggestions with part numbers would be nice!

Thanks In Advance,
Zed

[Mayhem]

I have a question? My buddy has the XXX NT with a Hitec Lynx FM with a Hobbico High Torque steering servo.

He has tried and I have tried to get the steering to have equal turning but the endpoints never seem to be equal. It turn more to the left than to the right.

I don't have any problems like this with mine(all airtronics). do you think that it could be a bad servo??

Any ideas would be helpful

Thanks

[Railman]

Nitro House sells an "MDP" nmh 1,000 mah 6 cell hump for 29.95 WITH a charger. Tough to beat that combo. www.nitrohouse.com (http://www.nitrohouse.com)
PH# 800-928-0304 Just call & they'll take care of you. They are good people. Bruckners also sells the same batts for about the same price.

[gubbs3]

To get equal throws on my XXX-NT I had to move the steering endpoints to the max on my radio and it was still turning slightly farther in one direction. I found it does make a small difference if you turn the short threaded rod between the servo and belcrank all the way down. With it this short though it is possible for the servo arm to go below parallel causing the steering to lock up if not powered.

[Mayhem]

I got it! :D

It was the servo post...he had them placed incorrect. I had to flip and rotate one of them!

[ 09-06-2001: Message edited by: Mayhem ]

[athowells]

I just read this forum and I lot of people say they have broken the clutch, broken ball-studs etc. Is this truck worth getting? :confused: I don't won't a truck that keeps breaking parts. Has anyone not breaken a part on it yet? :(
The kit comes with a Dynamite .12 SP engine. how good it it?
:confused:

[ 09-08-2001: Message edited by: athowells ]

[makaluch]

It's the best kit out there. They ALL break,...if you crash !! LOL Use the stock setup, practice two hours a day for a month, and run with the best of 'em. Oh yeah, after all that practice you'll want to put another motor in there too ! ;)

[athowells]

So you broke the parts when you crashed? :confused: And did yours come with the Dynamite .12 spd engine? How good is it? :confused:

[purplerides]

they all break eventually , you would be surprised at what they take and survive without a scratch , i think they are very durable and i've owned or have experienced all the brands out there , i like the losi best.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

I just got trinitys 0° degree rear hubs and the rear wills are still going inward. What is straight 0 or 2 degree? :)

[Railman]

Dalosi, That's because of the inner/arm blocks have toe in. 0' hubs give 0 toe in at the hub.
Joe

[losifreak2004]

Bah, you can't break a clutch. If you crash, you will break. This truck does not break as often as people say it does. I have gone well over three months without breaking anything.

I charge my Trinity Ni-MH receiver packs with a Millenium, but you can use any old charger, just make sure they don't get too hot.

The Dynamite engine is a good one to start out with. Not a really fast race engine, but good to learn on.

DrPassNSmile - You gotta use Adam's setup!!! lol The stock setup feels like you're driving a zip-lock bag of uncooked pancake batter.

DaLosiGuy- you still will have 3 degrees.

Broken parts list as of Saturday
-One rear arm
-one front arm (both my fault, I hit a railroad tie)
-One top brace, one front bulkhead, on front bottom plate (I hit something really hard)

And that is it. My dad has broken a shock tower, but I never have.

[makaluch]

Aaron - What'd ya have a bee land on your nose or somethin ?!! :D Those are some tough parts to break.LOL Yeah,yeah, I know. Adam's standard setup. That's what I said,...right? ;) So how'd that batter do in the corners? Felt like a stock setup on a Losi XXX-NT I bet !HaHaHa

[athowells]

Has anyone ever broken their chassis?

[dirtdevil]

how in the world could you break a metal chassis?

[gubbs3]

You would have to run the thing over with a car to break the chassis. I took many nasty spill and never even slightly bent the chassis unlike my NXT, ten feet onto the rear bumper will break anything. The only parts I broke in the six months I had my truck was both the rear arms, one front arm, the turnbuckles, a few ball studs, a rear shock tower, and the rear mount. Most of these breaks were something nothing would survive like catching the rear wheel in the coner of two pipes, hitting a large rock, running into a railroad tie, and landing on one front wheel on the apex of a jump. The time I hit the rock, the arm and mount didn't break all the way(only cracked) and it bent a Ti hinge pin to about a 15* angle and it was still driveable, that's durable.

[makaluch]

I've broken a pivot block going in early and clipping an open ended pipe before the berm. Trinity's aluminum block fixed that problem. I also broke a shock tower being a knucklehead while I was tuning with the body off ! Front flip to layin on your back will DEFINATELY break the tower at speed.The fix: tune in the straight !

[gubbs3]

Tuning with the body off will get everyone... every time. ;)

[makaluch]

I've got a friend who's also blown two sets of clutch bearings. This third set he put in trackside. I checked them out to see if he had the standard bell or the older flanged type bell. I noticed that his lash was not set correctly ! After installing the spur and slipper you need to roll the spur around a FULL turn to check lash. Also you need to be straight, meaning perpendicular, into the spur or you will flatten the inner edge or outer edge of the spur causing tighter lash also. The Losi bearings are great ones if you're careful with your alignment and maintain them. RPM's bearing blaster is good for that. :)

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

I have a GS 90 degree pressure fitting that i want to put on the fuel lid. Where do i drill the hole? And the bottom of the pressure fitting wont reach the bottom of the lid. :)

[makaluch]

off center towards the lid. Pull the baffle and seal from the bottom of the lid and you'll find the fitting will most likely reach. If not drill 1/16 too small and thread in with washer on top and an appropriate sealer. Be sure to stay towards the hinge side of the cap so you can turn the fitting a full 360 without hitting the handle. :) Mark

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

I just put on the pressure fitting on the tank lid and its getting harder to start. Why is this? :confused:

[makaluch]

It's a good idea to let the sealer dry for a full day. Did you check for leaks? Did you clean the area to be sealed ? Also check that you did not corrupt the "roundness" of the baffle and seal that you replaced. You did replace the seal, right? If so, and it's still round, then just press down on the lid after refueling. My guess is that there's a leak in the tank. Oh, also if the fitting has a small diameter your tank pressure may take longer to build up so you'd have to cover the exhaust until you "feel" the gas enter the motor.

[Jace2000]

:D

[ 09-14-2001: Message edited by: Jace2000 ]

[athowells]

How good is the XXX-NT when it comes to bashing/thrashing? :p
and what's this screw problem I have been hearing about? :(

[ 09-14-2001: Message edited by: athowells ]

[NitroRacer10]

There is no screw problem to my knowledge!! Juy use good drivers (i use integy) and you will have no problems. Also as for durability....umm I have broken this truck a few times a battery box and a shock tower and thats it in about 5 mo and I would say I race hard and put this truck through probably more than someone bashing simply for the fact my local track has HUGE jumps! Its a great truck for racing...bashing I would say the same too...check parts support because no matter what you get they ALL break!

[ 09-14-2001: Message edited by: NitroRacer10 ]

[Spinner]

I have redrilled my chassis for an associated fuel tank,,,,,, IMO they work 10 times better than the losi tank and are much easier to work with :D

[makaluch]

How's the AE tank fit in the chassis box ? What mods did you do to get that to work ? Is the integrity of the upper deck compromised? :confused:

[athowells]

Have any of yous had problems with your diff?
The screw problem I told about was the chassis screws are to small and they strip out easy. :eek:

[ 09-14-2001: Message edited by: athowells ]

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Does anyone make blue aluminum threaded shock bodies that will fit the XXX NT? :) :) :)

[gubbs3]

I don't think there are blue threaded shocks for the xxxnt but for the standard threaded shocks you can put blue collars on them.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Does anyone make aluminum rims that will fit the XXX NT? :) :)

[NTRacinGuy87]

Has anyone had problems with their manifold not clearing the ground? I did and it put a crack in the manifold. So I packed it with sand and stuff then I put in the vice and hammered it. It bent the manifold for more ground clearance. Will this help or do you think the manifold will crack again?

[NTRacinGuy87]

Oh yeah I have a rear exaust engine. Is the a good rear exuast manifold out there? I know Trinity will make one but I can wait the long.

[Portlander]

you all are breaking this, breaking that, two letters, a number, and two more letters for you !!!RC10GT!!!
j/k just checking up on the compotition for the GT.

[Grudly]

I use a rear exhaust manifold made by MugenSeiki and it's never hit the ground, I did have to trim the body a bit though for it to fit.

[NTRacinGuy87]

Yes I used to have to trim the body but since I bent it, it doesnt hit.

[Jace2000]

Hi guys.
I currently own a GT but a friend recently gave me his XXX-NT because he decided to leave the RC scene. :D
His truck is basically all stock and I'm wondering if the MIP CVD is a necessary upgrade for the XXX-NT. I noticed from the previous pages that SteveP pointed out that one side of the CVD was dangerously close to coming out. I don't recall anyone answering his question so I'm asking again.
Is the stock universal more than enough or should I get the MIP CVD? If I should go for stock, is there something you guys do to keep the pins in place and not come off?

I'm sorry about all the questions but I'm really happy to be back in the XXX-NT scene because it was the first truck which I ever got before I sold it for the GT.
I don't wanna biased against any brand. I just wanna enjoy the goods of both worlds. :)
Thanx in advance guys~
I think I'll be here for some time to come.

[gubbs3]

I haven't found any reason to change to CVD's. The stock shafts are smooth, durable, more than long enough, and I have never once had the pin fall out.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Well...does anyone make aluminum rims that will fit the XXX NT? :)

[SirSpeedy]

Jace-

The reason behind running the Losi bones, is that they go through bumps better, and give the truck a little more steering than CVD's.

[purplerides]

the stock are better in the bumps then cvd's , the stock shafts are smoother and don't bind at all , even the factory guys run then on rough tracks , they run cvd's on smoother tracks , which for a gas truck isn't to often. , oh yea like gubbs said the stock shafts are more durable and don't have any pins that'll fall out.

[mbleming]

hi, i need help choosing an engine for my new xxxnt. i've returned to the hobby after a 10 year break and I've decided to give nitro a try. Many have recommended the OS CV-R engine as the one to get. I've looked at it at tower hobbies..it's $149.99. They also have an OS CV-hyper engine for 114.99. Which would be the better choice? Is the CV-R worth the extra money? Thanks!

[makaluch]

MBLEM - both motors are great. It's a good idea to get the motor that best suits you. The CV-R has a chrome plated sleeve, bigger sealed bearings and a tougher connecting rod. These things will make the motor more durable. Hyper is nickel plated and pretty much standard except for the head. I believe it ups the compression a tad from the CV. What kind of driving do you do ? And what skill level do you plan to reach for? You should choose according to your needs. ;)

[Jace2000]

Thanks for the quick answer guys. Great support here.
What brand shock oils do you guys mostly use? Are the team drivers using Trinity?

[gubbs3]

I use the Team Losi stuff just because it comes in larger bottles. You can use whatever you want I just recommend sticking to the same brands because one manufacturer's 40 might be 35 somewhere else.

[Jace2000]

Gubbs3, thanks for the answer.
I'm currently using AE's shock oils. Do you know the viscocity difference between AE and Losi shock oil? I tried asking around here but no one seems to have experience with Losi's shock oil.
Thanks in advance.

[SirSpeedy]

Jace-

I recommend the Losi oil, as it is very consistent from bottle to bottle, batch to batch. I cannot say what the differences are, but I do know that they should be the same exactly wieght theoretically.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Will the hot bodies threaded shock bodies for the the T-Maxx fit the XXX NT? And is there a way to make the long shocks fit in the front? :confused:

[SirSpeedy]

To all running rear Exhaust Engines-

Team Losi now has a new body for rear exhaust applications, called the Triton NT. Here is a picture of one on Jason Ruona's truck. http://www.jconcepts.net/images/XXX-nt3quarter.jpg

[ 09-18-2001: Message edited by: SirSpeedy ]

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Yea, its on the Losi and Horizon website. :)

[makaluch]

I noticed that my spur is SUPER-close to my pivot block. Is it time for a new set of slipper pads or is it normal to be about 1 mm away. I do scuff the pads whenever I have to get in there. Recently a pin slipped loose in the dogbone and scuffed the tops off the tranny side of the spur. I slid it out as far as it would go and put some JB WELD around the base with a toothpick. Good as new !! I'll get some new ones though,...just in case ;)

[dirtdevil]

the new body is on back order and has been for about 2 months (i've been waiting). the os cv hyper is the same as the cv it just has a different head. horsepower is the same. it is appropriate for most tracks. the cv-r is better suited for racing on large tracks with long straights and major elevation changes

[Racin Rev]

Which engines are you using in your trucks, how easy were they to install, and how well do they run?

[mbleming]

I just ordered the os cv-hyper...it seemed more suited to the track that i will be racing. the track is pretty tight with only one real straightaway of only about 20 feet. thanks to those who helped me out!

[NItro-Smoke]

Has everyone read about the build-up xxx-nt in the Nitro Mag?? does anybody have the MIP header/Novarossi 51602 tuned pipe setup on their trucks, I would think it runs good, but how much better than the stock set-up? with CV-R engine!! :D :D

[NItro-Smoke]

http://home.earthlink.net/~plconley/_uimages/flag.gif

see if this works. see ya

[ 09-18-2001: Message edited by: NItro-Smoke ]

[makaluch]

I'm interested to know how that pipe/man combo changes the power of the cvr. I use a stock pipe and an AE manifold. It seems okay on the local track. I think I'm used to it is really what it is. I've also tuned a little fat down low to smooth out the hit. I'm not looking for more power,...just smoother. Which mag did you say that was in,...Nitro?

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

What engine, pipe, and header do you guys use? I use a O.S. CV-R, an MIP rear exhaust type header for side, and a cvec straight through pipe. :)

[NItro-Smoke]

Hey DR. it in the new RCAA NITRO mag they have out. You have not heard of that one yet? Very good mag. Steve Pond did the build up on the XXX-NT it looks pretty sweet

http://home.earthlink.net/~plconley/_uimages/flag.gif

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Yea, he has all the Losi graphite parts and most of the Trinity aluminum parts. :)

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Will the hot bodies threaded shock bodies for the the T-Maxx fit the XXX NT? And is there a way to make the long shocks fit in the front? :confused:

[PlanetRC]

I just got an OS .12 CV-X and I'm having a problem. When I put the shims between the Engine block and mounts, it raises my engine so high that my gear-mesh is constantly tight. Is there anyway to get around this problem? Thanks.

[purplerides]

you should still be able to slide the engine forward and backward , the spacers only raise the engine , it shouldn't effect the gear mesh , make sure that none of the counter sink washer one the underside of the chassis isn't binding in the groove that it sits in and not allowing you to slide it forward.

[PlanetRC]

The spacers DO effect gear mesh because they raise the engine so the bell is closer to the spur gear.

[losifreak2004]

DaLosiGuy - They are too long, you could get them t fit, but it's not worth it.

DrPassNSmile - The truck is just made that way. It looks kinda scary, but nothing can bend to make the two touch.

I use the AE header, and either a AE, GTX, or Trinity pipe. They all smooth out the low end power. I like the GTX pipe the best though. The CV-R fits in no problem, and runs great.

PlanetRC - You should be able to slide the motor forward. Crank the screws down nice and tight, and use red loctite, blue if you have to.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Aaron, can u tell me how to get dem to fit? Its for my "Ultimate XXX NT" so dis is a part i reele need. http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[Jace2000]

Guys, I'm currently trying to rebuild the diff of my XXX-NT. What's the best way to build the monster diff? I've read here somewhere that someone experimented using Associated diff spring but I can't seem to find that post anymore. Will using the AE diff spring keep my diff running longer? If so I definately wanna go ahead with this mod but what other parts will I need besides the spring itself?
If you guys suggest that I stick to the stock diff washers what's the best configuration?
Thanks guys.

[losifreak2004]

DaLosiGuy- LOL, you will have to add some internal limiters to stop the arms from traveling down too far, and probably set the preload as soft as you can get it to try to get it back to a reasonably decent ride height. After that, you might need to find some shock mounts that will fit, I'm almost certain those shocks won't fit on the stock ones. Stock T-MAXX ones might work, but check at your LHS before you buy some. Then the bottom shock eyes, Rocket City's might work, they are made for turnbuckles, so they might fit on the bigger shafts.

Nitro-Smoke - That's what pipe/header Vince Stolo runs with his Nova Rossi. Good power.

Jace2000 - Put the AE spring in place of the washers. You need one washer on the adjuster side of the spring, with the big end facing the spring, as well as the one washer on the thrust bearing side. Use only the stock grease, and work your diff as you tighten it. Remember to make it fairly tight, and to check it often the first few times you run it. It should last you a LONG time. I have almost two gallons through mine and it's nice and smooth :D

[Jace2000]

Aaron, thanks for the quick answer. I'll be sure to take your advice. :D

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Thanks Aaron, do u knoe if Trinity makes shock mounts for Traxxas? http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[losifreak2004]

No problem guys.

DaLosiGuy - Out of all the parts Trinity makes for the MAXX, I don't think they make shock mounts. I'm sure there is another company out there that makes blue ones

Jace2000 - long diff life is possible grasshopper!! LOL

[Spinner]

TTT where it belongs!

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Aaron, who makes blue shock mounts for the T-MAXX? http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[dirtdevil]

T-maxx?

[purplerides]

losi shocks are the ultimate shocks for a losi truck there some of the best on the market , you could get them powder coated blue a freind of mine did his

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Yea, there nice, but I like how HB shocks look http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[losifreak2004]

Hey, this is Aaron Waldron. It's using my login as my public displayed name for some reason.

[mbleming]

hi, i'm just about to finish up with the buliding of my xxxnt and i have a few questions/concerns that i was hoping someone could help me with...here goes:
1) My spur gear seems to be slightly warped, causing the mesh to be a little rough at the point where the spur seems to be imperfect. I can see it when i turn the wheels..it's slightly..off. Is this a MAJOR concern? Do i need to replace the spur gear or will i be ok? When i push the car along the ground it sounds kinda...whirr..whirr..whirr...does this make any sense?
2) The clutch shoes. In the manual one of the performance tips is to LIGHTLY sand these....i was confused about exactly WHAT surface I was to sand...it says do not sand legnthwise..does this mean sanding the edge of the shoes? Is this a major boost in perfomance or negligible?
3) I bought an OS CV HYper engine. The engine comes with it's own air filter...should i use this one or the stock losi one with the paper filter?
4) My chassis space seems crowded...when i connect the fuel tube to the engine it rests or rubs against the engines heatsink...will this melt the tubing? Anyone have any advice on how to manuever this for the best fit?
5) I bought a trinity reciever battery made for the xxxnt..the instructions say to charge it at 0.5 amps with the negative delta peak set at 0.02 volts. My charger has NDP of 5mV, 10mV, 20mV, 30mV, 40mV, and 50mV. Which one should I use...20mV..forgive my stupidity on this one.
And finally, before i fire this sucker up..does anyone have any DO NOT DO THIS advice for breaking in my engine.
Thanks to any and all who can help me..i know it's a lot.
mike b

[SeanCnln]

I am buying a XXX nt and want to know if my torq 16 from a max st will drop right in. Don't want to buy a new engine right away.
Thanx all.

:D

[Spinner]

mbleming...........


#1-if you have a warped gear, buy a new one plain and simple ALTHOUGH i dont see how it could be warped..... are you SURE your tranny is sitting in the chassis correctly?

#2- Lightly sand the outer edges of the shoes...... VERY lightly if you want to, I have and haven't and it doesnt make a noticeable difference... so dont bother

#3- The OS motor saver filter is MUCH better than the stock Losi filter, so use it!

#4- No heat wont melt the tubing........ dont worry about that too much

#5- yes 20 MV will work just fine.......

Have fun with ur engine, dont run it over 500 degrees and you should be fine :p

CHEERS

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

I like the motor saver aif filter. Its better den da stock and da OS one. :)

[Jace2000]

mbleming,
I seem to have the same problem with my spur as well. I just finished rebuilding the whole thing and I noticed it. Mine also seems a little warped and creates that sound. After further observation, I noticed that the shaft which the spur sits on seem to wobble as well. I guess I must of bent it or something
I'm gonna change both the top gear and the spur gear just to be safe. Maybe you'ge got the same problem as me.:(

[makaluch]

Before you go spendin' unnecessary bones, you might want to check that the notches in the slipper pad are seated on the ones in the spur. If not you will wobble, slip, spin, break stuff, and just look silly doin it ! If your top shaft is bent it's really unusual. Check the seat of the bearing in the case too. Good luck ! Have fun,...and race the wheels off if you can. This is state of the art stuff,...top shelf,...8.00 a shot,...you know ,...the good stuff !:D Mark

[winning edge designs]

mbleming,cheking the spur for the correct seating of the sliper pads is a biggie,make sure it's right. If it is you will find a slight "wobble" of the spur is normal. I have yet to see a spur with NO runout. Whats more important is the seating of the slipper pads and that the gear mesh is not too tight on the tightest spot,yet not too loose on the loosest spot.
As far as breaking in your engine,a common misconception is that you should run it in at a "Pig rich" setting and a low engine temp around 100-120 degrees. If you want to race your engine,don't use this method. You'll notice the engine will barely turn past top dead center when new,this is due to cold engine tolerances being tighter then operating temps. If the engine is "broken in" cold, the clearances never open up and heavy wear will occur,the opposite of what you might think would happen!
I run my engines at the factory setting,as long as it doesn't blubber and stall too much,if it does I lean it a little,so it will respond to throttle movement. Then check temp with the "spit method" or water. It should "cook" off the head,but not sizzle or just sit there. Usually if the temp is close it takes about 8-10 seconds to cook off the moisture. After heat cycling 2 or 3 times(heat up engine 3 minutes,shut it down and let it cool,refire) and 2 tanks of this setting and repeated throttle changes thru low to mid rpm range you can finish the break in on the track or street. turning the high needle in 2 hours(12 on a clock),or clicks at a time,until your at the free reving point and a temp in the 200-220 range.
The low needle is used to set low end response and idle quality,it's usually fairly close at the factory,or on the rich side.......Hope this helps,Jim

[losifreak2004]

When I break in engines, I let them idle through five-ten tanks of fuel at 180 degrees. This is what Regan LeBlanc and Conrad Amezcua have recommended for years. After that, go run five tanks on the track, leaning out about 1 hour at a time until you get it to where you wanna be, then go out and drive it hard!!

Do not tune an engine on the street. No track lets you hold it wide open for that amount of time. Tune where you're gonna run it. This DEFINITELY does not include the pit table!!

The Losi air filter is about the best on the market, although I use the Ofna 1/8 scale style filter. It is 1/10 size and anodized :D. I have had five Motor Saver air filters suck dirt, and the OS ones are too top heavy and fall off much easier than they should. They are also a little restrictive. If your filter uses a foam pre-element, save yourself some money and head to your local motorcycle shop. The oil for those air filters is exactly the same as what we use, and you can get larger quantities for less money. You can also pick up some Marvel's Mystery Oil, which is what After Run Oil really is.

[purplerides]

Dang , Aaron you had 5 motor savers suck in dirt , i had one suck in dirt and never put one or will never put another one on my truck again , i like the stock Losi filter also and just change the outer foam element often and use plenty of filter oil on it .

[mbleming]

hi, here i am with yet another newbie problem....i'm just about to get my truck running but i've run into a problem i just can't seem to solve. no matter what i try, i cannot get my throttle servo to open the carb completely when the throttle is maxxed out. i've messed with the linkages and servo adjustments..all to no avail. I'm using a JR X3 radio if that makes any difference. I can come close to having t all the way open, but this is when all the endpoint adjustments, etc are maxed out. when i do this the servo makes an audible noise(while at center) which would seem to tell me that somehting is wrong. even then, the crab is not completely, perfectly open. any ideas? thanks again,
mike b

[KC10Chief]

Hey Guys. Just thought I would let people know that Action RC in Oklahoma City, OK is having the Nitro Showdown on October 13th and 14th which is Saturday and Sunday. They race 1/10th scale nitro trucks, and 1/8th scale buggies. They by far have the nicest and biggest track in Oklahoma. Jerry and Ginna Hawthorne own the place. They are the nicest people you will ever meet and are dedicated to their track and to their customers and racers. The entry fee is 25 dollars and 10 dollars for each additional class. They give away trophies and plaques to the winners of each main including the B and C mains. The track opens on Saturday morning at 8 and racing starts at 10 I believe. On Saturday, they are having three 10 minute heats for each class. They will be racing the mains on Sunday. The A mains will be 30 minutes long and the other mains will be 15 minutes. If you wanted to come from out of the area and camp out in a tent or an RV, they have plenty of room and they let people do that. They will also be having a drawing for a 1/8 Meugen MBX 4XR Works. People come from all over the midwest to this race and if you come, you won't be sorry. Jerry and Ginna really try to make you feel welcome and make sure you have a good time. They cook dinner for everybody and their prices are better than mail order. They aren't in this business for the money, but just because they love racing. They are open 7 days a week after 5:30 on the weekdays until the sun goes down. Practice is always free even if you never race. They normally race on Friday and Saturday nights at 7pm. So, if you can't make it to the Nitro Showdown, you definately need to make it out to Action RC sometime to race. The crowd that races here is the best I've ever raced with. I'll be there racing my GT, but there's plenty of Losi drivers there too and they have lots of Losi parts. Us Associated drivers know how much those Losi's break down so Action RC has stocked up on Losi parts. So, bring those Losi's out and see if they can keep up with my GT! You won't be sorry you came! Matt

[losifreak2004]

KC10Chief - Too bad I live in CA, I'd come show you "AE drivers" how it's done :D

purplerides - They wanted me to test some filters, so I did. They sucked (dirt, literally).

mbleming - Try going back to the stock linkage lengths and start over with your EPA's set at 100. Check with you LHS on the servo noise, although mine makes some noise too.

[winning edge designs]

mbleming,the servo may make a slight,but not too loud buzzing noise at neutral.But only if your running a little "drag brake". Any load on the servo will make it "buzz,the more load the louder it will be.

As far as setting the throttle linkage up. You can gain throw by going further out or away on the servo arm,or further in or down on the carb arm. Only try one at a time and check carefully to be sure you don't over stress the servo, carb or linkages,etc. Also keep in mind you'll need to check your brake throw endpoints and your nuetral setting will change as well.

I ended up at 45 on my high end point and 75 on my low,for throttle. So there is plenty of room to get travel. I use an M8,but any high end radio will do the job.............hope this helps you out,Jim

[nitroman1]

Looking for the graphite front a-arms. Tried looking up the part # on Losi's site and Horizon Hobby with no luck. I odered them before when I first got the truck so I know they have them. Plz help!:confused:

[purplerides]

graphite front A-arms Losi#A-9710 , rears are A-2142

[mbleming]

hi, i just stripped one of the tiny hex screws that mount my engine to the chassis in the xxxnt..i really need to tkae the engine out...is there any way to get a stripped screw out or am i completely out of luck..thanks!

[rcboy618]

take a dremel and attach the cutting disc on it. cut a line a cross the middle of the screw, and use a flat head to unscrew it. that's what i use to do before i got some mip throp wrenchs. i haven't strip a screw since.

rcboy

[losifreak2004]

If you loctited them in (and you should have) you may have to heat up that part of the car to get the loctite to loosen up

[nitroman1]

Hey guys, was shopping for a new trans case, and on Horizon they are backordered. Does anyone know where I can find one elsewhere? Also, does anyone know if there is an aluminum one out there. Thanks:D

[dirtdevil]

don't loctite those screws that hold the engine mounts to the chassis! just put them in snug. as the engine heats up and cools down it does the same to those aluminum mounting pieces. this will set the screws in and they will end up being very tight.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Yea, does ne1 knoe if there is an aluminum transmission case for the XXX NT?

[winning edge designs]

mbleming,if you think those engine screws are "tiny",check out the bottom cover on the Triple-XS sedan!!!

Always locktite every screw going into metal,or risk losing a race form a missing bolt!........It's important that you have good quality allen driver tools and also before even attempting to remove one,be sure ALL dirt and sand,etc is out of the machined allen hole in the screw. Most of the time when an allen head strips it was partly filled with clay or dirt and couldn't provide the full strength available!.........They do eventually wear out as well,and need periodic replacment.................Jim

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Oh yea does Trinity make aluminum throttle servo mounts for the XXX NT? http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[winning edge designs]

I believe the XX4 ones are the same,or very close.Not sure of the part number though.............Jim

[mbleming]

here i am with another newbie question! i'm just not sure if my diff is tightened correctly...i need to know some pretty basic things....when i turn one wheel with the other held still on the ground, should the wheel i'm turning turn easily, independently of the one that is held still? i know this is a ridiculous question but i'm just not at all sure how this diff is supposed to respond. i started up my truck for the first time today and while breaking in the engine things didn't seem "right". the car took a few seconds to "get moving" and even then, the speed was pretty slow, even at full throttle....was the diff slipping or is this something else? thanks to everyone who has answered my silly questions about stripped screws, linkage problems, etc...thanks!

[losifreak2004]

winning edge designs - Are you my new partner in crime? LOL this is fun

I got this one!!

mbleming - It spins easily because you are just turning the clutch bell. To check your diff, tighten down your slipper clutch all the way, hold the right rear tire and the spur with your right hand and try to turn the left rear tire with your left hand. It shouldn't move without you having to bust out your Arnold Schwarzeneggar moves out on it. If it turns, then tighten it and try again. Once you get to the point where it is tight, go about another half turn more. Then back your slipper off five turns and you are set. Make sure you check your diff every two minutes for about the first ten minutes of running it, as it will loosen up as it breaks in.

Remember to have fun!!

A bad day at the track is better than a great day anywhere else

Aaron Waldron

[winning edge designs]

Cool,losifreak2004......I only found out about this board a few months ago,so i'll be around a little.
I like trying to pick up a few things and help out a new racer if I can. Since I remeber the days when everything was hush, hush and info was tuff to come by. It really sucks to be struggling with something another racer already figured out,then quit altogether,if we can keep it from happening,SWEET!

C ya 'round.......Jim

[SirSpeedy]

Anyone know where I can get some good paint work done?

[NitroRacer10]

Sir Speedy, Winnign Edge Designs does GREAT Paint work. I have seen quite a few bodies in this area Jim has painted. He is one of the most popular body design/ painters in the South!!! Give him a whirl!!!

[losifreak2004]

winning edge designs - I just like helping people. I was never a victim of Hushhush syndrome LOL

Anyone got questions? bring it on :D

[SirSpeedy]

Nitro10-

Thanks!

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Sirspeedy Cosmo does good paint jobs too. :)

[purplerides]

dalosi - yes trinity does make aluminum finned heatsink engine mounts for the XXXNT part#TK5060

[purplerides]

dalosi - dooh! my bad you were looking for throttle servo mounts i don't see them listed i thought they did make them for the NXT which would be the same but i can't find the number , they do list a aluminum switch mount for the XXXNT part#TK5064

[winning edge designs]

Nitro racer10,thanks for the props....By the way,did you see our new website yet? Check www.jconcepts.net/page.cfm

It's not completely done yet,but it's getting close to were we want it. Jason and I are getting good feedback so far!......Jim

[mbleming]

hey, i'm breaking in the engine on my truck, trying to get everything working correctly....i've run about 7 tanks of gas throught it and twice already i have had to stop due to a loose clutch nut. This forces me to remove the engine, etc and I'm gettting tired of doing it! I followed the instructions, tightening it as much as possible while holding the flywheel still with a rag...i can't seem to keep it tight...anyone have any tips or ideas?
Thanks,
Mike

[gubbs]

You might want to try holding the flywheel wit a pair of slip joint pliers to get a better hold on it. Use a 3/32 L-key and tighten it as much as possible with that. I say to use the cheap L-key so you can tighten it as much as you want and you won't damage the nut or break a good driver. You could also try using a steel brush of the crank threads to remove any old thread lock and to slightly roughen the surface to give new thread lock a better bite. Have fun and good luck!

[mbleming]

is that my problem? i didn't use any thread lock to keep the clutch nut on....it did not call for any in the instructions so i didn't use it. can i put thread lock on this part of the engine?
thanks

[purplerides]

mbleming - there a couple of reason's ive seen the clutch nut come loss.
1). the clutch nut has some debris in it (left over filings from being machine during manufacturing) is usually the culprit.

2). the collet is bad , worn etc.

3). depends on what type motor , i know Picco's have a longer then normal threaded section on there crankshaft , and what happens is the clutch nut bottoms out just as it puts just barely enough clapping press. on the flywheel , and through some use or starting on starter box especially (sp?) when motor is tight or loaded up with fuel it over comes the inadequate tightness of the flywheel , in which case to solve you have to cut approx 1/4 inch off the threads of the crankshaft , then nut won't bottom out, but you want to investigate the problem and make sure what is happening prior to cutting your crank.

also if you do use loctite on your clutch nut , make sure you wipe all the excess off that may be around the base of nut , or the loctite will get into the innner clutch bearing ans seize it faster then you could imagine , seen it happen many times , i personally don't use any on the clutch nut.

let us know how you make out.

[purplerides]

mbleming - i just noticed your from N.J. i not to far from ya only about 10-15 minutes , i race at family hobbies in Vineland , i don't know if your familiar with the track it's a great track , if you've been there i'm the older guy that works tech , plus i help out on occassion with track maint. and building , if you have the oct. 2001 rc car action mag. on page 34 there's a trinity dealers spotlight add and there's a picture of the track.

[mbleming]

purplerides--yes! the track in vineland is what made me buy into this whole mess as it is!!! I've been wanting try to race there for a few weeks but i just can't seem to get this truck in perfect working order! I'm new to the sport with no prior experience in nitro and it seems to be a bit more difficult than i thought...I'd like to talk to someone in person sometime...i need some help! If you'd be willing I could sure use it!

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Thanks Purplerides, but do u knoe if Trinitys engine mounts r heat sink? :)

[purplerides]

dalosi - the motor mounts are finned alum. , and anodized blue.my buddy uses them there pretty but i'm not sure they do a lot more heat transfering then the stock ones.


mbleming - i could help you out , if you want to take care of it during the week so you could be ready for this weekend of racing let me know , i'm off tues., wed. and thurs. this week , wed. i do have something to do in the morning but after 12:00 or so i can help ya. Let me know when your available and maybe i could help you out.

[mbleming]

purplerides - thanks..i'm off all day on wed....i'd like to have it ready for saturday if at all possible...email me privately at netlonsentinel2000@*****.com or through this board if you can..i'd like to set something up or just ask you for a few tips...thanks!

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gifThx Purple, I found heat sink engine mounts. Made by Dynamite.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Oh yea, u can see dem on Horizons website:horizonhobby.com http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[Crazy J]

hey there guys sorry to bother you all but I figured this is the best place to get the most info back on a question I been thinking over for a little while now. I have been thinking of building a xxx-nt and I have been wondering what the best engine for the truck is? I see the nxt has a dynamite .12ps but the new xxx-nt will have a picco what is a good engine to use and work with I am seeing top numbers in racing in mags with a picco and trinity exhaust but I was wondering what your feedback on engine and pipe is for a great setup to beat trucks at local track when I race.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

I like the OS CV-R http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[winning edge designs]

crazyJ,the OS CV-R is the most reliable,easiest to tune,IMO. It is also almost right there with most of the rear exhaust motors as far as power. If you need as much HP as you can get,the O.S. Rear exhaust engine is due out very soon,within weeks......The only other option I would choose,would be a nova rossi engine,imported by any of the dozen or so who put thier own name on them.(Mugen,HPI,etc)............Hope this helps,Jim

[2pt5MERCSonN2O]

I just purchased a XXX-NT and I'm getting ready to start putting it together. I have read through the instructions and got a question about the differential assembly. There are a total of 12 beveled washers next to the diff nut carrier. The instructions state to install 6 with the concave side facing away from the diff nut carrier and 6 facing toward the diff nut carrier. I remember reading somewhere a while back that they should all face the same direction. Can someone give me advice on this?

Feel free to provide any other tips a newbie XXX-NT owner should know. This is my first nitro "kit" (I have a T-Maxx) and I'm really looking forward to getting it all together. Thanks!

[losifreak2004]

The CV-R is a great race motor. There aren't a whole lot of people that can handle any more power than that. And you can get them and a good price.

[winning edge designs]

2pt5MERCSonN2O,I always install the bevel washers all 12 facing outward,concave away from the nut carrier. Remember,seat the parts by working them while tightening the diff adjustment bolt. After getting it where you can barely turn the gear using two small screwdrivers to hold the outdrives,your in the ballpark. Assemble the rest of the truck and trans,then adjust the slipper nut until bottomed lightly. Try and spin the left rear tire,while holding the right rear and spur with a finger(carefull).It should be very tuff to do. If it is back off the slipper adjustment approx 5 turns and run the truck. After about one or two minutes of mid throttle running and making some tight turns,recheck that the slipper slips first. In fact I check every run that the slipper slips first at bigger races and for the mains.

The only other tips I would recommend is bevel the opening for the starter box wheel,where it contacts the flywheel . This will make life on your starter wheels rubber donut alot better! Use a small amount of assembly grease opn the tranny case at the joint area. This will help keep it free from dust during sandy or loose dirt racin'. And Lastly,if your running a rear exhaust engine check out the "Triton" body for the XXX-NT!...............hope this helps,Jim

[purplerides]

2pt5MERCSonN2O- what Jim said he don't give out bad advise...well not usually...LOL

tips follow Jim's advise on the diff. and as far as any upgrades the first thing i'd put on is titanium tie rods then maybe an alum. rear pivot block other then that you don't need a ton of upgrades.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Does ne1 knoe wen the OS .15 CV-R will come out? I already have the .12 version but I need some more power. http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[Spinner2]

Here is how I made a custom rear shock tower brace for my XXX-NT (ill post a pic here soon as i can get one). Well what you do is put the shocks on one of the outer two mounting holes in the rear first, or this wont work. Second, take a ball stud, and screw it into the inner most hole on either side. Cut off about 1/4 of the upper part of the battery box on the side that faces the shock tower, and then put two more ball studs into the inner most holes in the bottom of the shock tower(all ballstuds facing the rear). Now, Take a thick zip-tie and tighten it around the part where the bars meet at the center of the X in the shock tower (this has nothing to do with the ball studs, but it adds strength) Now, take two SHORT turnbuckles, I used the shortest ones included in lunsford's Ti kit for my truck for this, and cut off half of the threads. Now, screw a SHORT losi ballcup onto both sides of this turnbuckle, and pop one on on both sides of the shock tower. Once they are on, TIGHTEN them so they are snug, but not too tight. This effectively braces the rear shock tower and will PREVENT IT from cracking, snapping, or breaking. I will post pics in a few days when i can get some but this will save u LOTS of cash in broken shock towers~ Just a tip from me! :D:cool:

[Crazy J]

hey guys I just wanted to say thanks for the info I appreciate it and maybe I will try that os .15 cv-r when it comes out or just stay with the .12 not sure yet but thanks alot

[losifreak2004]

A new stronger rear shock tower is in the works, and it's a lot beefier. No more breakage, Adam's tried LOL.

DaLosiGuy- Need more power? Let me tune it for ya :D

[Jace2000]

Losifreak...
When is it comin' out?

[winning edge designs]

Jace2000,the improved rear shock tower is due out shortly. They are only in the hands of a few team drivers for testing right now....but not me :(.........Strange thing is i've only broken one of the origional design,at the first race with the truck in missouri last year!..........Jim

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Wut will da new shock tower look like? http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Oh, and wut material will it be made of? http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[winning edge designs]

Same material,just a bit beefier in the cross brace area and slightly different method of injecting into the molds...Jim

[losifreak2004]

Thanks for covering for me Jim, i was at dinner with my girlfriend LOL.

Aaron

[2pt5MERCSonN2O]

Thanks for the tips winning edge designs and purplerides! The recommendation on the diff assembly was also confirmed by Adam Drake. He responded to an email I sent him and replied with this description:

diff nut-(((((((((((( -diff gear

I'm about halfway through building the XXX-NT. VERY nice kit and it's going together really well. I am installing a RB Concepts C12 (rotary carb, side exhaust) and just ordered a MIP 3048 header. Still deciding on what pipe to run. Any suggestions? Thinking of the RB X12.

Also, the track I will run on is hard packed/sometimes slippery. Any suggestions on clutch set-ups, gearing, tires, fly wheel weight, etc. that may help with this overpowered beast?

Thanks again for the tips!

[purplerides]

you know i just broke my original shock tower last Sunday , i got this truck in July 2000 , one of the first kits out , i just got done practicing at a race i set my truck up on the tech table and was talking to my buddy while another buddy was out practicing and my truck rolled off the tech table and landed next to me , i picked it up and the shock tower was broken , i couldn't do nothing but shake my head put the truck back up and conutinue with my conversation.

[LosiMan3456]

I am about to get a XXX-NT soon this winter. I am thinking of getting a CV-X hyper Engine. THis will be my first Nitro Car. I have heard the XXX-NT can accomadate both Slide and Rotary carbs. Is this True?? If so should I get the Slid or Rotory carb? I have heard the slides are better but require a tougher linkage setup. Is this true Also? What are your opinions? Thanks in advance!

[Jace2000]

Guys...

I'm thinking of getting the front and rear aluminum pivot block from Trinity. I suspect that the rear will help but I'm not so sure about the front. Has anyone broke their stock front pivot block? It's a little expensive and I would rather spend the money on titanium shock shafts. Also, is there a noticable difference when using the titanium shock shafts?

Thanks in advance guys~!

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Losiman, da XXX NT can accomadate both slide and rotary. You should get a rotary IMO. They r a lot easier to set up. Wen i got a slide carb i had to turn around da servo n fix up da linkage. Da XXX NT was a good choice. And OS engines r da most reliable too. http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[purplerides]

losiman - the rotary carb. should be better for offroad

jace2000 - i have cracked the front pivot block , i do now use the trinity front block and have been using it for a while now and has performed good with no problems.

[winning edge designs]

jace2000,I use stock pivot blocks on my truck. I've NEVER broken one,but I have stretched the front one out,where the hinge pins run through it! I'd slend the money on shock shafts,turnbuckles,spare parts.like ballcups,etc and a revised rear tower first.

The barrel carb will also be alot easier to control.The slide seems more suited to on-road,since it feels way punchier.Not more power,just comes on like a switch,or cheap mechanical style speed control. Fine for high bite,or on-road,not regular off-road tracks...............Jim

[losifreak2004]

I have both the front and rear Trinity pivot blocks on both my NT's, it's just one less thing to worry about. Sure, the stock parts are strong, but like Jim said, they do wear out. If you have Ti turnbuckles and gold shock shafts already and want something else to buy, then it's a good idea to pick them up.

I've had one of my trucks since January, and it has the original rear shock tower on it. My other truck that I got in June still has the same one on it also.

2pt5MercsonN2O - something Adam didn't tell you LOL.........try the AE diff spring. Put one washer on the nut side like this nut<//// if //// is the spring. The washers flatten out over time, the spring won't.

Also, the Trinity pipe is probably a better bet than the X12. The best thing you could get is the old short GTX pipe or an AE pipe. A 19 tooth clutch bell might help, but if your track has jumps right after turns that need some speed to clear them, use the 18. I had a 17 on my truck at Hot Rod for the Shootout. Leave the flywheel and clutch stock. I run the MIP clutch, which is the same thing as the stock Losi but the shoes have a hole on each side. You can put a piece of piano wire in the unused hole to add some weight. This will make the clutch engage faster, when the engine isn't making as much power, which means more rear traction. Other than that, ya gotta use your finger :D

[2pt5MERCSonN2O]

Thanks for the tips losifreak2004. Can't wait to get it running and start testing.

Got another question. Last night I assembled the tranny. I noticed the spur gear shaft did not spin very "freely" after final tightening of the tranny case screws. I took the tranny apart and made sure all the bearings were fully pressed into place. Put is back together and if I leave the screws a little loose the spur gear shaft spins freely, but after final tightening there is more resistance. By "more resistance" I mean you can turn the 4-40 threaded section of the shaft with you finger, but it is much more difficult than when the case is loose. Am I worrying about nothing? Is this just the drag of the diff turning in those large bearings? I noticed the large bearings have a type of grease in them and are fairly stiff. I imagine this will loosen-up after some run time.

Just want to know if this is normal. Thanks!

[losifreak2004]

If you can spin the shaft with your fingers, then you are fine. You're just trying to turn all the weight plus a little bit of drag because everything hasn't had a chance to break in yet, and you're only holding onto a very small shaft in which to do it.

Does anyone know if there is a way to change my publicly-displayed name back to Aaron Waldron? It's weird being referred to by my log-in name LOL.

Other than that, keep the questions coming!!

[andy51289]

Guys, about 2 weeks ago I got my Trition-NT body and painted it and ran it that weekend. I had never realized it until now, but my lap times were slower than normal. I just got back from racing at a different track, and I ran the Triton. It seemed fast since I hadn't been to that track in a while. I went arount a corner and the traction caught up to me. I rolled and broke the wing off. Fortunately I had the stock body, so I ran that. As soon as I dropped the truck on the track, I noticed a huge differece in my speed around the track. I bet I dropped 2-3 seconds off my lap times. Has anyone else noticed the same thing?

Oh, yeah and I havn't posted in a while because my log in name was messed up :rolleyes:

[Railman]

Aaron, Have you tried e-mailing Steve, Derrick or one of the other mods? A lot of guys had that problem & have gotten their original name back. Good luck.
Joe

[Racin Rev]

I just assembled my xxxnt. (just in time for winter):eek:
I am impressed with how it handles.
but (and i am sure that you heard the "but" coming) i am finding it a challenge to start. Not because of the engine, the OS cvr starts well, that is, when I can get the wheel of the starter box to engage the flywheel.
I have an (ofna/duratrax) starter box. It isn't top of the line but it works well with my on-road car.

The only way in which i have been able to get it to work is to remove the top plate, and align the car by hand. the starter wheel is in the on road position as the off-road position seemed worse.

Am i missing something? Does anyone else have this problem? What have you done about it?
Who has other starter boxes with which they have had success?

Thanks in advance for your replies. :)

[winning edge designs]

racin rev,I used a dremel and safety glasses to open the hole up,not it's area,but it's edges,to a 45 degree angle. This allows the wheels to get better contact and also keeps it from disintegrating on the sharp chassis edges.

Aside from that it's all about how well it's aligned. I mounted the chassi on the plate bare.Used a sharpie to mark the best locations for placement pins and drilled my own holes were needed. Then after assembly,the truck fit like a glove. Just remember to compensate for arms,battery box and pipe,etc..........Jim

[winning edge designs]

andy 51289,Are you serious,about losing 2 to 3 seconds PER LAP from a body in gas truck?

I actually noticed a slight improvement in mine with the TRITON body. Jason Ruona TQed our regionals(4) running one,I ended up winning the Main event running a TRITON body....During practice I switched to the newer TRITON body,since it was freshly painted,even though I don't run rear exhaust engines (yet). I lowered my engine temp by a few degrees and seemed to gain about .2 tenths per lap on average!

Not to mention I got rid of those two big bumps on the hood. Reminds me of when my sister was little...........haha,That body rocks!....Jim

[SirSpeedy]

I ran a Triton body at that same race that "winning edge designs" won, and I too felt that the truck was slightly faster!

But that may just be due to the fact that it look so bad azz!!

[losifreak2004]

I haven't run one yet, but Adam had one on a practice day we went to. He said it felt a little more strapped, more steering and a little less forgiving. But for that track, that's exactly what he needed. He was doing stuff no one had thought of before.

[Jace2000]

Guys, thanks for the answers.
However, it looks like I learned the answer to my qurestion the hard way. I broke 2 rear pivot block in two days. Wasn't really my fault but both accidents happened because I got slammed by MP 7.8s. :mad:
In the process my spur gear got messed up because the rear hinge pin touched the spur gear.

I'm getting the aluminum pivot block for both the rear and front.
:)

[andy51289]

OK I admit it wasn't 2-3 seconds. It was more like a second. The track where i ran it was not a wide open track. It has tight corners, small jumps, and is slippery. the TRITON was designed to fit rear exhausts, and most of the guys on small tracks run small engines, so...the TRITON probably was designed for big tracks.

[SirSpeedy]

Hmm....well,

I guess you would have to take that up with the guy that designed it........




heh heh heh.....

[2pt5MERCSonN2O]

I have seen the various drivers set-up sheets for the XXX-NT, but is there a book or manual that describes in detail how each of these changes to the suspension geometry effect the trucks handling? I have a small book written for the RC-10T3 which covers that truck pretty well, and some of those descriptions will carry over to the XXX-NT, but I was wondering if there is something out there specifically for the XXX-NT.

[winning edge designs]

There is a set-up guide in the back of the assembly manual. It only skims over the basics of suspension tuning,but it's very usefull. Use it to get an idea of what you'll want to try,then record the results on your own.
The main reason they generalize alot,is because of possible inconcistencies. Due to track surface,drivers "Style" of driving,etc,some changes don't "Always" work as planned. For instance a driver that brakes hard and late may disrupt the suspension to a point where a camber change wouldn't be noticed. Or may it not have the same effect as it would for a smooth,early braking driver, etc. There is also track surface variables,for instance on a blue grooved surface a lighter oil would make a car harder to control,usually. But on a sandy surface it would add traction,by increasing weight transfer.Something you wouldn't want as much of on a grooved up track...................All this is where experience and records come in handy.......Hope this helps,Jim

[2pt5MERCSonN2O]

Thanks Jim, that does make sense. I plan on a lot of practicing and tweaking.

[losifreak2004]

There was a past issue of XTREME that Adam exlplained most of it in.

[makaluch]

Aaron - Do ya have any idea which issue ? I'm very interested in the physics of the setup. I've actually changed my driving style a little because of the things I've learned OFF THE TRACK ! I've become MUCH faster.:) Mark

[purplerides]

makaluch - the article Aaron was refering too is in Feb. 2001 page 102 , very good article.

[2pt5MERCSonN2O]

purplerides, you wouldn't happen to know what issue number the Feb. 2001 is? Their website has back issues you can buy but they use issue numbers (like 6.2 or 6.3), not dates. Thanks.

[purplerides]

you where close it's issue 6.5

[2pt5MERCSonN2O]

Thanks dude!

[makaluch]

StormerHobbies still carries the GTX pipe ! Part#9826

It is supposed to be one of the best pipes to use with the CV-R. I guess it adds bottom and smooths out the top end hit.

[winning edge designs]

I'm using the Picco Pro pipe,it was exactly what I needed. It mellowed the bottom end and keeps pulling longer down the straights. The stock pipe seem to be "punchier",but flattens out at higher revs. The Cv-R seems to have plenty of grunt,especially when you run on a less then ideal surface!
I think most of this change in performance comes from the long slow taper of the divergence cone in the pipe...............Jim

[makaluch]

Sounds to me like I might buy that pipe too !!! The "smoothness" is really what I'm looking for. I've been told that the stub pipe (GTX) smooths out the hit too, but it probably does it by stealing from the top end. I'll have to see.

It's funny,...the nitro guys look for the smoothness of electric,...and the electric guys look for the power of the nitro....So,...how can we get brushes in an engine ???HMMM:rolleyes:

[winning edge designs]

It's also strange that most of the Gas Truck guys won't run Modified truck,because it's too much power to handle!?.....They jump from "stock truck" into GAS!!!
I think it's more about the GGGGGrrrrRRRRRRrrrr,then the power,not too mention runtime isn't a hassle,except in long mains............:),Jim

[makaluch]

True dat !! The electronics are so dam sophisticated nowadays. The average Joe can program the curve now ! It almost comes down to money,...except the driving part,...LOL.

I just love the sounds too ! How's that sound go again ?:p

[NItro-Smoke]

I just finished installing the MIP header with the Rossi pipe that the NITRO mag outfitted there XXX-NT with and I can say its a nice combo, smoooth power all the way.

[purplerides]

the picco pro pipe is a great pipe as wedjim has said , i run it with my picco , and like 6 guys at my track have tried them after i got mine and they all love that pipe , it smooths out he bottom and lets rip on the top end

[lositeamdriver]

has any one seen the new rear shock tower for the 3xnt? i use the graphite one right now but i heard they are coming out with a new one which is suposed to be stronger???

[winning edge designs]

lositeamdriver,Yes,TeamLosi is releasing a running improvement of the rear tower. It's beefier and much less prone to breakage...I hear they have a few other things in the works as well............Jim

[lositeamdriver]

thanks i also got a question i cant keep my flywheel to stay on it keeps on comming lose all the time i used lock tite and every thing is there a better collet im using the os cvr ? also does any one race at the havasu race way in lake havasu az?

[mbleming]

lositeamdriver - i had the same problem...my flwheel was coming loose everytime I drove the truck...i put locktight on and everything...finally someone was able to help me out and it's not fallen off since. he used some kind of large pliers (channel locks?) to hold the flywheel while tightening the clutch nut...i tried to do it by hand many times but it seems you need something stronger than just a rag and arm strength.

[lositeamdriver]

ya well i think i just fixed it well i heard they are also coming out with a tranny case for the nt too adam has it on his car allready well lake havasu az freedom race for the wtc benifit all proceeds go to the charity it will be nov 2-4 its a 2 day race

[Spinner2]

Ive noticed a flaw in the car, and it happens to all of my friends' xxxnt's also. The spur gear will grind into the rear suspension arm when it is compressed, (eg: when it lands off of a jump) and it will grind into the suspension arm, and damage both the arm and the spur gear, that is IF your engine doesnt die from the sudden stoppage....... why was this problem overlooked?

[winning edge designs]

spinner2,this is the first I've heard of this problem?

If the rear pivot block is tightened fully,it shouldn't allow contact with the spur gear. At least it doesn't on mine or any of the trucks i've biult. Check the orientation of the parts and tightness of the mounts,etc. Also look for some type of small crack in the pivot block,if everything else looks ok........My truck has been thru some tuff landings and several 45 minute mains,without the arm ever touching the spur. Let me know what you find,if anything.....Hope this helps,Jim

[makaluch]

I had the same problem once. I think it's inherently VERY close. I bought some new slipper pads. I think it's from scratching them back to rough too many times. Also, check the play in the tranny bearings,...one of them could be on it's way out.

[Spinner2]

No WED, i have the trinity aluminum rear pivot and it is loctited down tight

[winning edge designs]

Good points,mculock(?)......I overlooked maintenance items like those. But basically,if everything is right,it doesn't touch.........It is engineered to be close,but not touch,at full compression.

An aluminum pivot block may be a cause,or using multiple anti squat shims,on a zero block made from aluminum. So the pivot block does need to be closely inspected..............Jim

[purplerides]

i've never had/or seen that problem either with the spur touching pivot block , me and most people i know also have an trinity aluminum pivot block on. it is close my spur is actually hangs below the top of the pivot block and spins right along side of it , my A-arm can't touch it , the only things i could think of is a bearing as suggested above or the spacer inside tranny on the top shaft may be missing allowing shaft to slide in and the spur rub pivot block , or a bent top shaft? the only other thing is broken/cracked trans. brace or screws securing trans. brace to top plate missing and allowing the chassis to flex , ouch! the chassis plate is pretty stout by itself it must be one hard landing to get that baby to flex. let us know what you find.

btw your pivot block is on correctly , the set screws for the A-arm pins is to the rear and facing up .

[lositeamdriver]

ok it does rub the pivot block i got the alumin one trinity and it rub just alittle where it rubs off the blue and the rear arm rubs too just a little all i did was on the rear arm take a dremal and crave it out a lttle so it wount rub

[winning edge designs]

purple rides, is the trinity block opposite of the stock one. On the std block the set screws for the inner pins is to the front and they tilt up towards the front,2 degrees(the amount of anti-squat)....Jim

[Spinner2]

it DOESNT HIT THE PIVOT BLOCK, it hits the A-arm......

[purplerides]

spinner - sorry can't help i just double checked mine and when i push the A-arm all the way up the shock bottoms out prior to the A-arm reaching the spur gear , i still have more room to go up more very little though , but the shock won't allow it , the only way i can think of off hand to prevent the arm from going up farther that may help you out is an outer limiter on the shock shaft , i haven't seen this required on any of the XXXNT's i've seen , i'm tring to think what may be different on yours , if i think of something i'll post it.

Jim - the trinity block has the same toe and anti-squat as stock , where you put the setscrews on the stock one is already closed off , it has 4-40 set screws in the back that face the top of the truck (so they don't get dirt impacted) that hold the inner pins from rocking back and forth and up and down so the pin holes don't get worn out and eggshaped. you would change out a rear arm the same way except you have to loosen the 4-40 set screw. (which is located where it could be reached easy).

[purplerides]

spinner - are you running the stock shocks? and you got the longer shock bodies and shafts mounted on the rear of the truck , cause the front bodies and shafts are a little shorter , which if they were mounted in the rear by mistake would allow the A-arm come up the extra distance to hit the spur. just a thought.

[winning edge designs]

purplerides,that sounds cool. I may need to check one out.........I wish they would make em purple. I'm not into oven cleaning that nasty blue off there!
I didn't realize they had made a change like that as well. I haven't tried it,since I've Never borken a rear pivot block on my gas truck...............Jim

[Jace2000]

Guys, I'm thinking about getting the Trinity XXXT/NT-CRE Conversion Rear End (TK5073) but I'm not sure if the included hub is a 2degree hub or a 0degree one. Does anyone know?

Also, where do you guys usually shop for XXX-NT stuff online?

Thanks in advance~

[winning edge designs]

If those parts are the same as the proto's Matt was testing a couple months back,they have zero toe. That will leave you with the 3 degrees inside. They may be releasing 1 or 2 degrees as well,but I couldnt find anything on the Trinity Site..............I would ask on the Matt Francis thread on tech talk,he'll know for sure!......Jim

[Spinner2]

stock shocks........ but threaded bodies, mounted on the outermost hole in the rear shock tower......

[losifreak2004]

makaluch - The GTX pipe has much more top end than the stock pipe, even more than the Picco. Great for Pro-Line's 180 ft. straight :D

winning edge designs - I wish they made many more parts in purple....the Aaron Waldron line from Trinity!!!

This is from school guys (in internet design class :D), my keyboard at home went nuts!! I'll try to get back on here quick.

[mbleming]

How hot to the touch should the bottom rear of my chassis be after about 10 min of run time? Mine seems to be fairly hot, not enough to burn a finger but pretty warm...this is not after hard, full throttle running either..just the average med, low, with occasional full throttle speeds...Thanks for any guidance!

[purplerides]

mbleming - that's the motor transfering heat to the chassis , if it didn't tranfer heat to the chassis your motor would get real hot , i temp. your motor several times last week i think it was like 210 which is a good safe motor temp.

[purplerides]

spinner - i use the same mounting hole , check the shock body lenght against the original shocks to make sure there not shorter.

[winning edge designs]

mbleming,as purpelrides said,it's heat transfer from the engine.This actually helps keep it from overheating,as much and maybe more then a heatsink head. It takes a full 8-10 minutes to warm the engine,chassis and any other metal components they touch. This is the right time to adjust the carb,so it'll run at the right temp in long mains. Of course if you only run in 5 or 6 minute heats and mains it never really gets Fully heated up..................Jim

[losifreak2004]

LOL, and we only get a two minute warm up!

That's an oxymoron without the oxy.....:D

[Spinner2]

same as stock rear bodies............maybe it could be because i use the bulkier traxxas captured ends on my shock shafts? and i also noticed that the round edge of my pinion gear has scraped off a bunch of the back-most metal slipper plate, but i think thats because i shimmed the whole clutch and thingy out with a shim which i think i need to take out....... :confused:

[lositeamdriver]

ok well guys if you live close to az you might want to stop by lake havasu for the freedom race on nov 3-4 its going to be cool and for more info email me [EMAIL=bubbahatton@lvcm.com ] and ill anwser all question...go Team Losi!!!..........


back to rc cars i have a xxxnt with a cvr it i have the cvr to fat it chockes it self out why? it sound like bluuuurrrr and it dies? so i have to run it like 210 to run very weel it scream and every time i go to warm it up it keeps dieing it wont idle till it gets like 160?

[winning edge designs]

Lositeamdriver,it sounds like your engine is far too rich. It's not always best to keep and engine at 200 or 210 degrees,etc. You need to tune the high end leaner,until the truck accelerates briskly,clears out nice down the straights,but doesn't "crackle" on decel...You may find 230 or even 240 degrees is best where your at. I've run .12's as hot as 285 degrees without any trouble. But this is with high quality O'donnel fuels,which have very good oil and stay mixed well,etc. You should always see some smoke from the exhaust,that lets you know there is some oil and small amounts of fuel left after the engine cycles thru combustion. If none is left out the exhaust the engine is likely not getting enough for the demand and should be richened.
The reason the engine runs better hot is a hot engine vaporizes or atomizes the fuel better. This allows it to run slightly better when it's overly rich. If the engine were too lean,it would begin to run worse as it got hotter.

Once you have the High end set,you'll be able to adjust the low end and idle speed. A good gauge for low needle settings is an overly rich low end will always sounds great right after letting off from a rev. Then after only a second or two,it will slowly slow down idle speed and the worse the rich condition,the more the engine will continue to slow down at idle,until it stalls. As you lean the low needle,you'll see you can actually lower the idle speed as well,if your getting the above symptoms.....................If the low end is lean,try pinching the fuel supply right at the carb,it will quickly kill the engine if it is too lean. If it's only a little lean,it will try and die,but give you a quick warning before it does. Back out the low end a click and try again ,if this is the symptom. Remember,when setting low end,always have the engine at Running temps and clear out the engine, so it's set without being loaded up,etc....................Hope this helps,sorry for the long post,Jim

[lositeamdriver]

thanks jim ill try it now i have it running like 215 and it runs perfect for my driving style thanks for the help also does any one have any extra nt part they want to sell my lhs doesnt carry vary many nt parts like arms shock tower etc...

[NitroRacer10]

anyone ever break the trans/ chassis brace? i did SOMEHOW!!! I never noticed it until tonight doing my bi-weekly tear down!!! I just can't belive it snapped. i know I can be hard on the truck but NOTHING else is broke!! WOW :O

[lositeamdriver]

i got the trinity brace and i broke it in like 20 min i never broke a stock one though the trinity ones are defective!

[losifreak2004]

I've heard plenty of those Trinity braces snap. I wish I would have known you were gonna buy one, I would have warned you.

lositeamdriver - Your engine should idle around 180 on 15-20% fuel. I use Trinity and never run my engines cooler than 210, at 240 they scream!!

The Havasu race is two weeks before the Reedy Truck Race....I can't miss that much school. I'm taking three Juniors classes as a sophomore :D

[lositeamdriver]

thanks losifreak i race in vegas at lasvegas rc race way and im going down to havasu with like 30 other vegas guys are going!

[losifreak2004]

Sounds like fun....since you're in Vegas, are you going to race the Silver State Nitro Challenge? I'll be there in 2002.

The Reedy Truck Race is the biggest race left in 2001, all the big teams are already signed up. Come out and take the family to Six Flags, which is less than 20 minutes from the track!

[lositeamdriver]

im only 16 so i dont have a car so i catch a ride with people so i wont be able to come to the reedy race but i missed this years silver stat but i was there to watch but havasu is going to be fun and fast!

2002 silver state ill be there in 1\10 gas truck

[winning edge designs]

lositeamdriver,you can contact the guys at Superior hobbies. They have a web site at www.superiorhobbies.com,or call them at 407.834.9299. They carry almost every concievable hop-up as well as stock parts for TeamLosi. Even stuff from Trinity,Racers Edge,MIP,Orion,Peak,etc..............If they don't have it,there probably isn't a hobby store that does!.........................Tell em' Jim Myers sent you!......;),Jim

[lositeamdriver]

thank you jim!:D i will try them!!

[NitroRacer10]

I broke the STOCK brace!!!!!!!!! OUCH:eek: ANyhow one more question, how often do you guys change the balls in diff? Mine seems out of round BIG TIME. I usually clean and relube every couple of weeks maybe longer if I am lazy but am I getting it TOO tight? or relubing too much? I ordered new ones but I don't wanna do that too often at 11 bucks!!! THANKS!!

[winning edge designs]

nitroracer10,I usually get a few races at least from my diffs. In fact I ran my truck at two club races and the regionals,including a 45 minute main and still it doesn't need a rebiuld yet. As long as it feels smooth,I don't mess with it,unless i'm attending a major event,like nats,etc.
You may be able to get your diffs to last alot longer by simply running the slipper a little looser,so you don't need to crush the diff rings,etc by overtightening. I always set the slipper 4 turns out from bottomed,then adjust the diff so it doesn't slip. After setting the diff,I back off the slipper 1/2 to 1 turn,depending on how slippery the track is and how big or tuff any of the jumps may be. IN other words,run the slipper only as tight as you need it to make jumps,accelerate quickly,etc. You'll be amazed at how loose it can be,before actually hurting performance. Rear tires spin very easily,especially in turns,this is what fry's diffs as well. A slightly looser slipper helps in this dept too...............Good luck,Jim

[KIPPY]

hi i need help i cant make up my mind between yhe xxxnt ready to race and the rc10gt factory team my dad said no upgrades not even in a year because i spent $1,500 on rc and he says thats to much for a toy so please answer my question give pros and cons of each vheicle:confused: :(

[purplerides]

kippy - asking what one is best is like a chevy/ford debate , bottom line is there both very good vehicles and very stout vehicles , in my opinion the XXXNT is a better handling more and driver error forgiving vehicle , both vehicles need very little if any upgrades , most hobby shops carry parts for both , you may want to check your lhs to see what they carry , though i've seen many drivers go fast with the rc10gt , the ones i've seen that then tried a XXXNT went even faster with the XXXNT , my vote goes for a XXXNT , but if your lhs only has parts for the rc10gt in stock then that may be the better choice for you.

[losifreak2004]

A couple months out of a diff isn't uncommon. I set my slipper at five turns no matter what the track is. I rebuild the entire diff whenever it feels gritty.


nitroracer10 - You broke the STOCK brace? What did you hit? A tree?

KIPPY - It depends on what you plan on doing. The GT is harder to drive fast on a track, just because you have to push harder. The NT, on the other hand, has been known to not withstand a brutal crash, like the ones you would most likely get into in your backyard. Also, parts availability at your local hobby store should be your main concern. Both trucks are great, the XXXNT RTR is more bang for the buck over the FT GT, as you get everything you need to get on the track.

[NitroRacer10]

YES!!!! The STOCK BRACE.......I couldn't belive it either. I don't know what I hit or when it broke BUT NOTHING else on the truck is broke and I tore the whole truck apart!!!!!!!!! I am AMAZED!!! Maybe it was a defect?? Who knows!!!!

[losifreak2004]

Do you still have it? If so, mail it to me. I'll take it to Adam and we'll look at it.

[lositeamdriver]

are any of you guys go to lake havasu for the freedom race? losi will be laying the smack down also does any one have any probs with the rear shock tower breaking??? i broke 2 in 3 days and now i have the graphite one!

[NitroRacer10]

Aaron , I still have it I can send it to you...email me your address. I ordered a new on already b/c I have a big race coming up but it would be nice to know what is up!! I don't crash much either, when I do it is b/c I am trying to make up ground and push hard clear jumps I shouldn't try. Nothing more than a a few tumbles. I also expect arms to break but never do. I do however have RocketCity ends on the truck and that solved on problem during even the most minor crashes!! SO who know! Like I said give me your address and I will mail it to you!! Later Braah

[mbleming]

hey, i broke the ball stud on my rear shock tower this weekend so I'm looking to replace them with the losi titanium ones...my question is this: they make them in 3 different sizes: .188", .250", and .380"...which length goes where and how many do I need total for the different areas? Is there one size that is "less necessary" than another..they're expensive so if one size is really not worth buying, i can save some money.
Thanks!

[makaluch]

I tried the stock GTX pipe with the OS CV-R. Wahoo !!! All I've got to say is,... sssmmmoooth !!! From the stock pipe I had to lean the bottom and fatten the top. A tank in and I was rippin. I had to relearn how to drive the track with the added pull. There's no hit at all !! It's just pull and more pull,...to the moon !!! :D Mark

[makaluch]

Bad pic I know. Too bright. Cheap cam.

I think I've got the a-arm into the spur problem figured out too. I noticed that the arm develops play from front to back from wear. Meaning it slides forward and back on the hingepin slightly. I also noticed at full compression, and with the swingarm slid forward, the spur will touch slightly. The cure...buy new arms or shim them to the rear. You can dremel the notch a little deeper which weakens the arm and also add exterior limiters. In order is best.

The manual is very clear on the ball studs.

[purplerides]

mbleming - i use the longest ones on all the camber links front and rear . i've been using the standard losi ones in the steering links.

[losifreak2004]

makaluch - I KNEW you'd like it :D

NitroRacer10 - You have mail!!

lositeamdriver - Don't crash!! LOL They are in the process of updating them to make them stronger.

mbleming - put a thin washer between the stud and the plastic piece. This will spread the load out more. and if it still does break you will have some material to hold on to when you try to get it out.

Keep racing!!

Aaron

[lositeamdriver]

see i dont crash alot its the un forgivingness of them like if i get hit in the air and land on it it breaks and in a 45 min amain here my hand starts to hurt alot so thats why and i cant focus for 45 min so then i start to crash and it breaks it sucks when your in the lead and it does it!

[losifreak2004]

That's true, but that's the challenge of a long main; you have to stay focused. If you make enough of a mistake to land upside down, then something should break!!

Where are you racing 45 minute mains at? Is that the normal A-main at your local track?

Also, where are the towers breaking? The new ones are much beefier along the sides and a little more in the middle.

[winning edge designs]

mbleming,I use titanium ballstuds up front for camber,but in back i'm using Du-bro 4/40 captured ballends. These use eyelets and bolts,like an 1/8th scale. They don't break,not that i've seen. You'll actually get to wear these out before breaking them most likely!......do use the long or medium ballstuds. The short ones only work for steering linkage,which hasn't been a problem.(note,i've seen ballcups and ballstuds break on ALL brands of trucks,it's not a Losi only problem.........in fact,these rod ends were spotted on a GT first).......Hope this helps,Jim

P.S.what up Aaron?:)

[winning edge designs]

Opps,wanted to post a pic also,here she is,Region 4 champ,(heh heh,tootin' my own horn,:(...)....file:///C:/My%20Documents/Image%20Expert%20Images/September%2024,%202001/Image002.jpg

[losifreak2004]

I use the Rocket City captured ends in the rear, and the Ti ballstuds up front with yellow ballcups.

What's up Jim? My girlfriend's been keeping me busy, so not much racing. Do you have Instant Messenger? My screen name is greensmurf20.

[Enrique.v]

I bought another XXX-NT! You'll be seeing me at Hemet some time in the future;)

[winning edge designs]

Hey Aaron,I wish I had a girlfriend to keep my busy,but my wife would get really pee-O'd at me probably?........heh heh,:).

I do have instant messenger,i'm wedjim on it,like on tech talk. I'll add you to my buddy list and give you a shout sometime.....Jim

P.S.,getting ready for the Tampa first annual Gas Winterchamps!......this weekend.Nov 3-4.

[cucountry]

Well i officially made the jump from associated to Losi tonight when i purchased a XXXNT to replace my outdated GT. I have a couple of questions for you guys. Will the rims for the Losi GTX or NXT fit the XXXNT? Does MIP make CVD's for the XXXNT yet? Also, does anyone have the O.S. CV-R in this truck and how does it run? Are there any parts on this truck that i should be especially careful with that might need to be replaced with a hop-up for added durability?

[Enrique.v]

Yes, the XX-T and NXT rims fit on the XXX-NT(not gxt i think) MIP does make CVD's same as NXT and XXX-t CVD'S, I've run t