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cucountry
11-01-2001, 09:17 AM
I ordered the Ti turnbuckles and hingepins and im ordering the rear aluminum pivot block very soon but i didnt know they made one for the front. Who makes it. Thanks for the info on the wheels and CVD's. Ill be placing my order very soon for those as well. Im also trying to order the RRP aluminum diffrential for it as well. Are the graphite A-arms worth it or are they just better for show?

Enrique.v
11-01-2001, 06:16 PM
Trinity makes most alum parts for the NT. Graphite works for smooth tracks but rough tracks use the plastic stuff.

winning edge designs
11-01-2001, 09:55 PM
cucountry,easy on the aluminum diff gear,it will only transefre heat to the compound gear and destroy it. As long as your slipper always slips,before your diff,you won't have any trouble with the stock parts.......In fact I have yet to break a pivot block either,but that won't do any harm like an aluminum diff gear could..........Jim

losifreak2004
11-01-2001, 10:06 PM
Enrique - NICE!!! What's up man? I'll talk to you on AIM.

cucountry - The diff gear isn't worth it. It just retains heat and won't prolong the life of your tranny.

The GTX wheels won't work LEGALLY, they make the front end too wide. The NXT wheels are the same offset.

The Ti turnbuckles are the only thing you need. Anything else is just extra goodies. The Trinity aluminum pivot blocks are a good idea, the front one is part # TK5009.

Not many team guys are using CVD's on their trucks, but out here we race on a lot of rough 1/8 tracks, and dogbones work better on rough stuff.

Jim - That's the beauty of bein 15......:D:D

cucountry
11-01-2001, 11:14 PM
Thanks for the help on the diffrential. I will make sure and keep a loose setting on the slipper clutch. When you said the NXT wheels are the same offset, did you mean as the XXXNT or the GTX? Thanks for the part number on the trinity front end. Ill let you guys know how it comes out but its getting kinda cold here in colorado so i dont know if i will get a chance to run it for a while.

losifreak2004
11-02-2001, 12:08 AM
The NXT front wheels are the same. All Losi rears are the same.

No problem, that's why I'm here!!

NitroRacer10
11-02-2001, 02:33 AM
Aaron, I will get that brace out this weekend...... My parts to rebuild diff etc.. came in today and the other half of brace is still on tranny :eek:LMAO. I will be taking it apart tonight probably for a rebuild. AS far as upgrades I personally would like to add something :)......Rocket City 4-40 captured ball ends.......WOW is all I can say. I know the key to winning or finishing well in ANY race is to not crash, but lets face it unless we are Aaron ;) LMAO we all make mistakes and crash or we get excited and don't calm down and crash, well the rocket city ends have saved my butt MANY times from having a ball cup pop off. I would have to say that is the SINGLE biggest thing that causes DNF's anyone tend to agree?? Just periodically check for play between the ball and the captured end...I have a few I am replacing now after about 3 months racing on them.

WedJim, I will be at the Colonel's Classic In GA next weekend, I will be pitting with Bobby Moore and crew. Come introduce yourself, I would like to meet you.

winning edge designs
11-02-2001, 10:34 PM
Ok Nitroracer,sounds good. bobby knows me pretty well,i've painted bodies for him. You'll know me since i'll be the fastest old guy at the race,LOL!........hopefully?...........Were you at the regional gas race in lauderdale?..........:),Jim

NitroRacer10
11-02-2001, 11:10 PM
NO, Jim I wasn't I haven't been racing but about 4 or 5 months. So far the biggest events I have attended are all local and that being Watermellon Classic and SC State Race. I am still pretty new but I am beating all of the local fast guys already :) will yo be there friday or Sat morning? Bobby and I will be practicing all day Friday. SAvannah is like my home track but I have only ran 1/8 once there so I need some wheel time with it. Cya then

Siro
11-02-2001, 11:42 PM
Hi there, i'm looking into the XXX-NT Losi as it looks like a impressive truck and dam tough.

Do you have any videos of the truck in action to give me a better idea?? And what kind of top speed am i looking at stock?

Thanks for your time

losifreak2004
11-03-2001, 02:10 AM
When you have Adam Drake and Vince Stolo following you, the last thing you're thinking about is an excuse to why you crashed LOL. Practice makes perfect. And yes, Rocket City captured ends are great, I use them on the rear. Also, a short piece of string tied through the unused camber link holes can be used to stop the dogbone from falling out of the outdrive if an end should break. I had the left inner one melt off because of heat from the manifold.

Siro - Sorry, no videos yet. Speed will depend on the engine you get and how you have it tuned, among many other things. I can say, however, that it will be fast enough for you.

Siro
11-03-2001, 08:21 AM
if i got 1 i'd probably put in a O.S .15 CV-X, i've heard they fit in just as well as the .12 version

losifreak2004
11-03-2001, 11:36 AM
That'd be a great engine to start with. You should expect speeds in the 40's, which is whole lot faster than you think!!

andy51289
11-03-2001, 07:20 PM
hey guys I just got one of the new rear shock towers from losi. The only things that are different is that there is A LITTLE bit of plastic below the upper mounting holes, and the sides are bulkier. Havn't run it yet, but I hope it is a lot stronger!

andy51289
11-03-2001, 08:05 PM
I have a question. does the GTX pipe add more top end or more bottom end?

losifreak2004
11-03-2001, 10:54 PM
It smooths out the low end (but it doesn't get rid of it) and it adds TONS of top end. Where your truck is tapped out now, this pipe just keeps on pullin'!!!

makaluch
11-04-2001, 12:12 AM
I can attest to the pipe. It doesn't add or take away anything. It just controls the CV-R's power perfectly. It takes that hit out and makes it feel like the strongest and smoothest electric you've ever driven !!! You don't have to do anything different to be faster.

losifreak2004
11-04-2001, 01:44 AM
And the best part? It sounds like a chainsaw on steriods :D

(actual description by Ron Rosetti)

Jace2000
11-04-2001, 08:02 AM
I'm lost here and I need your help guys...
I was trying to get 3 degrees toe-in in the rear end and I recently ordered the 1degree rear hub set (A-9807). Well, I just got the 1 deg. rear hub today but I don't see any difference with the stock rear hub (A-4125). Are my eyes playing tricks on me or are they really the same?
Our local track has very loose dirt and I wanted to try giving the rear 3 deg.
The stock rear pivot block has 2 degrees right???
Do I need to get the 2 deg. rear hub (A-9808)?

Are any of you adding shims under the rear pivot block to get some anti squat? If yes, how does it feel?

Thanx in advance guys...

losifreak2004
11-04-2001, 01:33 PM
The pivot block has 2 degrees of anti-squat (with no shims) and 3 degrees of toe-in built into it. By putting those hubs on you have 4 degrees, which is Ok because that's what all the team guys run anyway. Did you put them on the right side? The one and two degrees hubs go L on Left and R on right, not like the stock ones, which were backwards. Also, some people run the ballstud coming in through the front, putting the camber link at a very weird angle. This will not change the geometry, and stops the turnbuckles from hitting the spring (it only hits the bottom two coils, but some people are paranoid about that kind of thing).

I'm running 1 degree of anti-squat :D

OmegaTrac
11-04-2001, 02:58 PM
Do any of you have experience with the XXX-NT Ready-To-Race? Is this truck worth the money? How tough are they on the track? How is the included Radio Gear and Picco Motor? How often do these usually break?

--Chris

losifreak2004
11-04-2001, 06:29 PM
The truck is the same, the Picco engine rules, and the JR XR3 is a great radio to break into the digital world.

It's the perfect package!!

Jace2000
11-04-2001, 07:04 PM
Losifreak, I really appreciate your help on this. I've got some more Qs before I let you go :D
So you're saying the the rear pivot block already has 2 deg. anti-squat and 3 deg. to-in, right? Is it recommended that I try to add one more deg. toe-in and anti-squat to increase straight acceleration grip?
Also, you mentioned that the 1 and 2 deg. rear hub go L on the left side and R on the right. Is that by looking at the truck from the front or from the rear?

Like I said before, I really appreciate your help on this. We've got lots of GT users here but almost no XXX-NTs.

BTW, my lundsford ti. turnbuckles seems to bend too often. Aren't they suppose to just break instead of bending? Are any of you guys experiencing the same problem?

Thanks

winning edge designs
11-04-2001, 08:55 PM
Siro,if you get the bench biult kit,it comes with the picco .12,with it you'll get about 35 mph,if tuned correctly,maybe close to 38?..approx.
If you get a kit,it doesn't come with an engine,(at least the kit I would buy doesn't?)so you'll need to pick out an engine for it. So far I'm liking the O.S. CV-R the best,but any of the top motors are good if tuned up well.

Nitroracer10,Ok,i'll see you in Georgia then. Btw,we raced in Tampa today,just got back. Bodbby and I were going at it hard in 1/8th scale and I lost my left front wheel,AAARRRGGGGG,new wheel nuts,haha......Dan Rodriguez ended up winning and I came back from 2 laps down after bobby had a flame out,I got 2nd with my Hyper7!..................Got 2nd in gas truck too,I hope I was just saving something for georgia?...........haha,Jim

NitroRacer10
11-05-2001, 12:38 AM
Sounds like you had a good weekend ole man (LMAO ...cam i call ya that) I did however read on the Tampa site that Booby finished first :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: So who knows.........Anyhow can't wait for nect weekend, I will be there early Friday. Guess I will see ya there...OH and remind me to get a business card or something , I may have you paint me a body or 2. OR 3 etc......... LOL. Later

winning edge designs
11-05-2001, 07:35 AM
Nitro,Jinson put up the unoffical results,with bobby winning. It was actually Dan,Me,then bobby..........I'm sure they will correct it shortly.....See you in Ga,Jim

cucountry
11-05-2001, 02:04 PM
Im curious about something, i just finished my truck and im going to be running it this weekend but i didnt see anything in the instructions about any type of lube for the tranny. Do you guys put anything on the gears in your tranny? When i had my gt i used stealth lube but i dont see anything in the manual about it.

Spinner2
11-05-2001, 02:11 PM
Nope, dont lube your tranny at all..... just made sure to tighten it up.......


http://www.plauder-smilies.de/rough/flamethrower.gifhttp://www.plauder-smilies.de/rough/flamethrower.gifRC-10http://www.plauder-smilies.de/rough/flamethrower.gifhttp://www.plauder-smilies.de/rough/flamethrower.gif

winning edge designs
11-05-2001, 09:13 PM
cucountry,I use a little white lube on the gear faces,but very little. I also use the white assembly lube on the gear case halfs. It helps keep dust out of the tranny.

So far my tranny has 4 races on it without opening it up. Two club races and the regionals,with 3 rounds of 6 minutes and a 45 minute main. Also the Tampa race,with two 5minute rounds and a 1/2 hour main.....Plus practice at all the races as well..........These diffs and tranny's will last a long time if biult and adjusted correctly..........Jim

cucountry
11-06-2001, 09:22 AM
Cool, thanks for the help guys. I was just a little confused and didnt want to fry my tranny first time out.

Spinner2
11-06-2001, 06:27 PM
With care, your tranny will last a long time..... I have a whole gallon on mine and its smooth as butter :cool:

losifreak2004
11-06-2001, 11:26 PM
Jace2000 - Use the Losi one degree hubs and leave the pivot block stock, with no washers under either end. This will give you four degrees of toe-in and two degrees of anti-squat. Adam told me to try something that gave the truck one degree of anti-squat, but most people won't know the difference. The one degree hubs will give you more straight-line traction and sidebite. The hubs have a L or R on them, that's what I was referring to. And you look at the truck from the back to determine which is which.

I've never had a problem with Ti turnbuckles bending OR breaking.....

As for the help, no problem!!!

Jim - Well done on the tranny LOL ;)

Jace2000
11-07-2001, 05:25 AM
Guys, I was puzzled today by what my LHS guy told me.
He said that he had GOLD compound Losi tires. I thought Losi only had silver, red, and pink?
Did Losi ever have gold compound tires? Maybe he's trying to sell old leftover stock tires to me....

Railman
11-07-2001, 10:18 AM
Gold is the M2 of Losi tires, & I believe it's their original compound. It's a harder tire than the silver, which is just a tad harder than M3's. They all take tire juice differently though. From my experience, the silver takes tire treatment (juice) better than any of the others. Reds are too soft to use tire juice. The pinks seem to be getting very popular on some tracks lately, but I haven't tried them.
Joe

winning edge designs
11-07-2001, 10:33 PM
TeamLosi has older compounds of rubber. They began with K compound,then HT. By the time they introduced thier JRX-2 in 87-88,it wasn't long after they had Gold,which was Super soft at the time,you even needed inserts!!!haha....Proline went from XT,to XT-R,TeamLosi uped the ante' again,with Silver when Proline came out with M2,Then Proline released M3. So TeamLosi released Red.

Proline has done VERY aggressive rubber compounds,and in between compunds,not offered for public uses,due to rapid wear,poor R&D results,etc.(not to mention over abundance of compounds already available).......TeamLosi now has Pink,which actually fits in between silver and Red.


I remember the days when tire choices ment getting out the "tire tuning" scissors!.........We had 2,maybe 3 sets of different tires MAX back in those days.....Jim

makaluch
11-08-2001, 01:39 AM
This is interesting stuff ! Can you guys post the compounds in order (soft to hard) ? I've always used Losi red just because I don't know what the ratings mean. If ya don't know what you're changin to, then don't change,...LOL. That's my philosophy. Seems to me that all brands use a different rating system too !!:rolleyes:

Spinner2
11-08-2001, 07:46 PM
Gold is hardest
Silver is softer then gold
Pink is softer than silver
Red is softest of all


(Softer ISNT always better, esp. with step pins, red pins will just fold over, because the rubber is too soft, get silver and it fixes that|)

losifreak2004
11-09-2001, 12:38 AM
Harder tires will grab ruts more, but on anything other than a blue groove track will give you more forward bite. Soft tires will generally increase side bite. That's straight outta Adam Drake. Of course, there are exceptions to every rule, but those are good guidelines to start out with.

Spinner2 - You can solve the folding over ( to a certain extent ) with harder foam.

makaluch
11-09-2001, 01:21 AM
What about the Proline ratings? Can somebody put them in that same chart,...meaning compare compounds across the different brands ?

DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt
11-09-2001, 10:45 PM
Hello, does anyone know of a company dat makes aluminum rims for da xxx nt?

losifreak2004
11-10-2001, 02:09 AM
Mark - It's pretty much the same. M3 will most likely work wherever Reds do, M2's will most likely work wherever Silvers do.

I have used Pro-Line tires less than ten times in the past year. The only tire i really use is the Bow-Ties in gas truck, maybe Holeshots on a 2W.

DaLosiGuy - I have no idea where to even start. Sorry man.

Spinner2
11-10-2001, 02:13 AM
Our local track starts in 8 hours.... and me and my stepdad have our Losi's ready to kick some gt-butt (if only he could drive as good as me! :p )
I rebuilt my rear end, took a shim off of my engine, flipped the pivot block, got a new spur gear, completed all the maintenance, buttoned down my wing instead of taping it.... and I am finally ready to race!

Ill post results later

losifreak2004
11-10-2001, 02:15 AM
Good luck!!

makaluch
11-10-2001, 02:27 PM
Spinner - What does flipping the pivot block do ? Is it for anti-squat reasons ? Hmmm.

I'm still learning what all of these changes do for performance. Between Aaron and the rest of you experienced guys,...I feel like I'm in school again !:)

losifreak2004
11-10-2001, 06:30 PM
Wait, he said he flipped the pivot block. That's kinda weird, you can't do that.

makaluch - That's the part that the arms make a hinge on the inside.

makaluch
11-10-2001, 07:37 PM
I was thinkin the same thing Aaron, but I was hoping I would learn something new. I do know which part it is,...silly...:D

Spinner2
11-10-2001, 10:01 PM
I have the TTK aluminum one in the rear,,,,,, it changes the geometry ever so slightly

losifreak2004
11-11-2001, 02:29 AM
Ever so slightly? You either put two degrees of pro-squat into the truck or three degrees of toe-out. Who told you to do this?

Jace2000
11-11-2001, 08:36 AM
Humm, this is interesting....:confused:

losifreak2004
11-11-2001, 01:01 PM
It doesn't make any sense......

Spinner2
11-11-2001, 04:37 PM
take a look at the alum block laying on one side, and then the other.... it IS different, if i had a camera id show you

Jace2000
11-11-2001, 08:42 PM
Has anyone tried the Razor Rib and Razor Pin front tires from Losi? If so, which one works better on dusty loose type small tracks? Thanx guys!

losifreak2004
11-11-2001, 09:27 PM
Spinner2 - It is different. Which was are you flipping it? Sideways or front to back?

Jace2000 - The razor pins work great on a loamy dry track, they don't hook like directionals do. Razor ribs seem a little more darty, but are great for people who like lots of steering.

Jace2000
11-11-2001, 09:32 PM
Losifreak, thanx for the fast reply.
You're a great help man :)

losifreak2004
11-11-2001, 10:08 PM
*cracks knuckles* Anytime man, anytime.

winning edge designs
11-11-2001, 10:17 PM
I would assume that if you can flip the pivot block,it would raise the rear roll center. Which means,less rear traction........Or less wieght transfer,usually both....Jim

losifreak2004
11-11-2001, 10:43 PM
Right, which wouldn't make any sense.

Who told you to do that Spinner2?

cucountry
11-12-2001, 10:47 AM
Well i picked up the new M8 this weekend and that blue screen is pretty damn cool. I need to rig up some lights to my old nitro demon and then i can play at night!!!!! What graphite parts did you guys put on your trucks? I was thinking about just adding the graphite kickplate and chassis brace. Oh, what size bearings do i need to buy for the steering because i really hate using bushings. Only 7 months and counting till i can actually do some off road racing!!!!! Im really growing tired of on-road and you just have to drive to far here in colorado for nitro off road. GOD BLESS FLORIDA!!!!!!!!!

losifreak2004
11-12-2001, 12:08 PM
I use a graphite kickplate and rear shock tower.

Tired of using bushings? You won't be able to tell the difference. And bushings won't blow out. In any case, Losi sells a kit with the right bearings and spacers. I will try to find the part #.

Off-road is a wonderful thing :-D

losifreak2004
11-12-2001, 12:11 PM
Losi part # A-1508

Spinner2
11-12-2001, 01:10 PM
no i flipped it sideways. So the setscrew for the hinge pins faced UPWARD, not DOWNWARD.... it also appears to change the angle of the rear arms from what i see......

Jace2000
11-12-2001, 07:12 PM
Wait...:confused:
I maybe wrong here since I'm new to this truck....
Isn't it suppose to face UPWARD if you build it like the instruction says? :confused: :confused: :confused:

Spinner2
11-12-2001, 07:27 PM
JAce- It's an aluminum hop up part. There is no difference with the stock rear pilot block

Jace2000
11-12-2001, 08:56 PM
Spinner...
I have it as well and I know that they're identical with the stock ones. Maybe I'm not understanding your description but I placed them in my truck like I would do with the stock ones and the setscrew for the hinge pins faces upwards giving me some anti-squat.
I think I know what's going on here. Spinner, I think you have it placed correctly now. Maybe you placed it upside down when you first set it in your truck.

purplerides
11-12-2001, 10:04 PM
Spinner - the trinity rear pivot block should be installed with the set screws facing up , it is now installed correctly.

losifreak2004
11-12-2001, 10:32 PM
If you flipped it sideways from stock, that's putting two degrees of pro-squat in the truck. You'd have a fairly ill-handling car.

Did someone recommend doing that?

Spinner2
11-13-2001, 12:47 AM
Yes, I had it upside down when i first put it in there,,, why else would I have flipped it? :rolleyes:

purplerides
11-13-2001, 12:13 PM
spinner not a problem your not the first person i know of to install it upside down , your truck should handle better now.

losifreak2004
11-13-2001, 10:04 PM
LOL, I thought someone was telling you a "trick".....

DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt
11-13-2001, 11:05 PM
Does anyone know if RPM makes ball cups that will fit on the steering servo?

DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt
11-13-2001, 11:07 PM
Oh yea, does ne1 know if a company is making a blue anodized chassis?

losifreak2004
11-13-2001, 11:07 PM
The normal RPM ball cups SHOULD fit.

winning edge designs
11-14-2001, 09:07 PM
I'm not aware of any anodized chassis available yet. Not sure if it would be the way to go,since it is already Very thick as far as performance and any anodizing would take a major beating. Usually an aftermarket chassis is thicker And anodized. I guess the aftermarket may be discouraged since Losi did the chassis right from the start?.............There are some Matt Francis Trinity parts that will fit,as well as the TeamLosi "Triton NT" body that look sweet!........Jim

DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt
11-14-2001, 10:21 PM
Is the Triton-Nt body more aerodynamic(sp.?)?

DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt
11-14-2001, 10:22 PM
Oh, will the Triton-Nt body come painted?

Jace2000
11-14-2001, 10:28 PM
The triton NT doesn't come painted.
I've just recently painted mine but IMO it doesn't look good as the old one. It has more curves and so on but it doesn't look as slammed as the old one. It actually reminds me of the Ford F150 body that comes with the GT kit.

OmegaTrac
11-14-2001, 10:39 PM
Yo!,
My Dad just purchased a new Team Losi XXX-NT Ready To Race. I have driving it during break in and like the truck. But the Jr XR3 eats batteries. The radio has only been used a few times for small amounts of time and the double A batteries are already low! Is there a rechargable pack for the radio so we dont have to keep spending money in double A's?


What are your experiences with batteries for the radio? Battery life?


--Chris

losifreak2004
11-15-2001, 12:10 AM
DaLosiGuy - The wind seems to affect it more. You will also have more steering with the new body. Not too sure about drag though....

OmegaTrac - Digital screens will do that. See if your LHS carries the green Sanyo AA's. They last quite a while longer than normal AA's.

Chief
11-15-2001, 02:54 AM
lol just delete this i was looking at an older post when i left it and didnt realize it sorry

winning edge designs
11-15-2001, 11:06 AM
dalosiguy,The Triton NT body has a smaller frontal area as well as a more flowing shape for improved forward areo effect. It's primary design is intended for use with Rear exhaust high output engines,while eliminating the two small "bumps" on the old bodies hood. It also isn't as "square" for a different look.
Some may like the Triton more,some less,but it's another choice and you could run a rear exhaust engine without a heavily rubbing body.
So far the new body has been on the Region 4 TQ and Winning trucks,as well as the Colonels Classis TQ and winning truck. It has also been on the winning gas truck in a few state series races,since it's debut,so it works!!!...........Jim

OmegaTrac
11-15-2001, 01:02 PM
So there is no rechargeable pack for Xr3?
Do they run well with rechargeable AA's?

How long is the run time with the sanyo's?

--Chris

winning edge designs
11-15-2001, 05:05 PM
omegatrack,Look for the green cells that losifreak is referring to. They are Nimh cells with 1500 mah(?) capacity. I use them in my M8 which sucks the batteries as well,they seem to hold up well,even for 45 minute mains,etc....They will recharge with a standard AA recharger,or a racing style charger at .5 to 1.5 amps.

If they aren't available locally,call Superior Hobbies @407.834.9299........Jim

losifreak2004
11-15-2001, 07:30 PM
True, Sanyo makes Ni-MH AA's. but they make a green alkaline that will last for about six to eight hours in an M8 with ease.

Check with JR to see if they sell a rechargeable. Airtronics and Futaba each sell packs for their higher end radios, JR probably does too.

OmegaTrac
11-16-2001, 12:59 PM
Whats is the URL for JR Radios?

Sorry Im asking so many questions.

--Chris

dirtdevil
11-16-2001, 01:05 PM
JR is owned and distributed by Horizon Hobbies. Go to www.horizonhobby.com.

JR part number JRPB958 is a rechargable battery pack for the XR3 radio. Horizon of course carries it but it is back ordered.

DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt
11-16-2001, 11:17 PM
How come the Triton-Nt body wont come painted?

losifreak2004
11-17-2001, 01:57 AM
Omegatrac - No such thing as too many questions.

DaLosiGuy - LHS's may carry bodies which have been painted by someone, but Losi does not sell prepainted bodies.

winning edge designs
11-17-2001, 08:50 AM
DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt


If you'd like a custom painted Triton NT,or any body for that matter,I can help you out. Check my website gallery,www.jconcepts.net
You can contact me thru the site and also see new products,race results,etc. It's still being completed,but there is alot to see so far.
Prices start at $45,plus the body for a custom multi color paint job. Or if you prefer something simple and don't want to do it yourself,two colors is $30 plus the body....Jim

losifreak2004
11-17-2001, 12:16 PM
Sales pitch!! LMAO

DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt
11-17-2001, 08:58 PM
How much will it cost for a body with flames?

winning edge designs
11-18-2001, 01:09 PM
DLWdaXXXnt,A custom flame job is $45 plus the body. I believe the body is $18 at the LHS. So if I supply both,the total would be $63 including shipping....Keep in mind this isn't a generic paintjob,like some on the market for only a few dollars less,nor is it a cheap silkscreened paintjob................Jim

P.S.losifreak,now that's a sales pitch,the earlier post was advertising,;)!.............haha,Jim

losifreak2004
11-18-2001, 01:44 PM
HAHAHA

Keep in mind, WED bodies have been on the Region 4 winning gas trucks......

There's another one!!

MISTERgadget
11-20-2001, 07:18 PM
http://www.sgrid.com/2001/november/track-4.jpg

Miami R/C raceway is proud to announce its first race! Come on sunday, november 25th, for the JLap thanksgving turkey race. Booby moore and team mugen USA will be there. saturday is practice day from 9 am to 5pm, and sunday registration is from 7:30 to 9 am, and racing starts at 11 am. Fees are 10 for practice and 10 for the race. It promises to be a great day, so come and show support for miami's first permanent rc off road track.

http://www.sgrid.com/2001/november/track-3.jpg

http://www.sgrid.com/2001/november/track-5.jpg

visit our website for more information, including rules and directions to the track.

Miami R/C Raceway Home (http://www.geocities.com/gadgetracing/miamirc)

Jace2000
11-20-2001, 08:18 PM
Nice track~!:D

MISTERgadget
11-20-2001, 08:40 PM
thanks jace! it took us about 5 months to build, and the owner has been working for 4 years to secure land and permits. hopefully itll be a sucess!

Jace2000
11-20-2001, 08:54 PM
By the looks of it, I think it will be a success. Wish I was in Florida :(
Isn't it great to work on a track for months and be finally able to run on it? I'll post a pic of one of our more recently opened local track. It's not as large as yours but it's tight and has a lot of technical stuff to it.;)

Raydee
11-20-2001, 09:58 PM
Man I wish I lived where I could race all year long!!!!

winning edge designs
11-20-2001, 10:51 PM
can't wait to check it out mrgadget. Can't do it this weekend,but will try and get down there soon from Orlando area.......Jim

Siro
11-21-2001, 05:51 PM
I posted before about the XXX-NT about asking if anyone had any videos of it. Anyway i just wanted to know wether or not you thought the XXX-NT was any good for a 1st nitro truck model, i have had experience with 2wd kits as my 1st ever RC car was a Tamiya Blackfoot but for my next car which will have to be able to go off-road and be nitro i wanted to get 4wd cause of there obvious capabilities and easier handling which of course is always better for the newcomer kind of like myself.

The problem though is that the majority of off-road trucks are 2wd cause they seem to jump better, the only 1 breaking this cycle is the NMT which i do like alot but it isn't that tough and isn't really competitive.

Can anyone shine any light on that?

winning edge designs
11-21-2001, 09:02 PM
OK,i'll try and sum the whole nitro truck thing up for you......

The Nitro racing truck class is 2wd only. Unless you race at a very "loose on the rules" track,you'll need to have a 2wd truck. So it's not that 2wd handles any better,in fact a well tuned 4wd should beat down a 2wd truck easily on a "normal" off-road track.


I think the only two real choices you have are the TeamLosi XXX-NT or the A/E GT. The Losi truck seems to have a handling edge and in my opinion just looks alot sweeter,slammed and all. The GT is a proven platform,with hop-ups out the wazzoo'.....But don't let anyone convince you one truck breaks any more then the other,i've seen both trucks break plenty if crashed hard enough! ..Infact a local made a comment after a guy broke his XXX-NT,he said,"that's a problem with those". He went out the very next run and broke his GT's front a-arm!......Ever since we have a saying around here,every time a guy breaks,"that's a problem with those"!


I would check at your LHS and see if parts are available for both,also what wins at your local track?.......either way,good luck with your truck of choice....Jim

losifreak2004
11-22-2001, 03:15 PM
*claps enthusiastically* bravo! bravo! encore! LOL

Siro
11-22-2001, 07:17 PM
Thanks Jim, its a good bit of advice there.

I should really of gone into my situation abit more, really i want something to bash around, something fast, strong, reliable and durable. Most trucks as u said are meant to be 2wd to qualify for the stadium truck class and the really only other odd egg is the NMT which as i said is a good kit but its not that strong which isn't good for me at all. What i intend to do is just to get something to bash around and then race once i've gotten use to the truck and am confident that i have a cat in hell's chance.

So again taking that info into account do u think that the XXX-NT is all of that and suitible for me (kind of a beginner) to buy 1 and use it for what i want?

winning edge designs
11-22-2001, 08:13 PM
Siro,
The XXX-NT is the truck I use,I think it's the best handling truck out,in fact I won the Region 4 race with mine!

Keep in mind that you may want to change the ballstuds to titanium ones,at least the inner rear camber(2) and inner front camber links(2). Also if you are really tuff on the truck,like large plywood ramps,etc.,You may want to get the aluminum rear pivot block,extra ballcups and titanium turnbuckles.

The only other advice I can give is when you run your truck,always check that the slipper slips before the diff.To check this,hold the right rear tire,and spur with your right hand and fingers. While doing this turn the left rear tire with your left hand,the slipper shaft and it's adjusting nut should NOT turn,but the spur should. If it does this and the slipper isn't too loose your set to go and won't have any problems.........Obviously the slipper should be a little difficult to turn and that will require a tight diff,so follow the diff assembly instructions to a T!..........Hope this helps,Jim

winning edge designs
11-22-2001, 08:16 PM
opps,proof read before posting......

I gave you checking symptoms for turning the spur and told you to hold it,cough,cough.:).

When holding the spur and right tire,then spinning the left,the slipper shaft and nut SHOULD turn.

When holding both of the tires and turning the spur,the nut and shaft should NOT turn..................There,fixed,:),Jim

losifreak2004
11-22-2001, 09:36 PM
I think Ti turnbuckles are more important than the ballstuds. I've never broken a stock one.

Other than that, the truck it perfect for all you wish to throw at it. Remember that no matter what truck it is, it will break if you crash.

scottro-nitro
11-23-2001, 01:57 AM
got my little flywheel problem solved, and finished breaking in the picco .15(still havnt tuned in the power yet)all i can say is awesome the XXX nt is totally sick i built it wed. night and roughly set the suspension and i have never driven an R/C this awesome, cant wait to get on my local track.......sweet:D

Siro
11-23-2001, 03:24 PM
thanks everyone.

before i start going into the technical side of the XXX-NT i just want to know, do u think the XXX NT would be a good backyard basher and a good beginners truck for me until i progress with it to racing???

NItro-Smoke
11-24-2001, 11:05 PM
After not reading this board for a while I noticed that I also have my trinity aluminum rear block on upside down!!! Im usually very careful building and putting things together, I dont know how I messed that one up? The set screws go on TOP!!! Lets see if that makes any differance-----http://www.plauder-smilies.de/rough/xyxgun.gif

losifreak2004
11-25-2001, 09:56 PM
scottro-nitro - Glad to hear you like the truck...it only gets better as you run it more :D :D :D

Siro - It is a great backyard basher, as long as you don't slam it into hard objects without expecting breakage. Once you get into racing, you will be rewarded for keeping it.

Nitro-smoke - It will make a HUGE difference!! depending on which way you had it flipped, you could have added pro-squat, toe-out, or both! Your truck should be MUCH easier to handle now.

winning edge designs
11-25-2001, 09:56 PM
Siro,the XXX-NT will be an excellent "Backyard basher",you'll likely have the best around your neighborhood! ESpecially if you'll be racing in the future.....Good luck,Jim

Nitro,you'll likely see a big improvement in forward traction and off-power steering.

winning edge designs
11-25-2001, 09:57 PM
Woah,close one,LOL.........,Jim

losifreak2004
11-26-2001, 09:50 PM
I was thinking that too, you replied less than 30 seconds after I did.....

bump-n-run
11-27-2001, 09:42 AM
Hey WED, you were talking about the rules for off road truck and you stated that it was 2 wheel drive only unless your track has loose rules. When i checked the ROAR website, they dont state that 1/10 off road truck is 2wd or 4wd but they do give minimum weights for both. Now i would read into this as i could race either legally but i think most people use the 2wd because they are better trucks and noone makes a good 4wd. Am i correct in this?

winning edge designs
11-27-2001, 12:32 PM
I found this in the Roar rule book:2-14: Two methods of drive are authorized. These are two wheel drive, with power transmitted to
the rear wheels only; and four wheel drive, with power transmitted to all four wheels. Cars that are
driven by the front wheels only are classified as four wheel drive.

This rule,2-14 indicates a seperation of rear wheel(2wd) and 4wd,also uncluding front wheel drive in the 4wd category.

It isn't stated again in the 1/10th fuel section most likely because of being cleared up under general guidelines.....Jim

bump-n-run
11-27-2001, 12:39 PM
Cool, i was always wondering about. Well, after getting my Worlds 2 buggy ive been bit by the 1/8 scale bug. Im now looking into getting something more competitive but i see you are thinking about changing also. Im moving to Ocala in June so hopefully by then i will have something ready to race.

winning edge designs
11-27-2001, 01:14 PM
Sounds cool,Ocala is about 1 and 1/2 hours north of me. Thing is I have the 1/8th bug too,but I need to start finishing as strong as I start the races,haha....we'll see what happens,Jim

bump-n-run
11-27-2001, 04:34 PM
Whats a good pipe for running the o.s. cv-r? I was thinking about a paris ring pipe. My LHS is kinda limited. I order alot of stuff from tower and the only good pipes they carry are the associated and the picco pro.

winning edge designs
11-27-2001, 08:27 PM
BnR,I like the picco Pro pipe myself,though the paris ring pipe made good power,it was too quiet for me.Believe it or not I hate when I can't hear my cars and everyone elses are louder then mine. Perfprmance wise they seem similiar,although the paris ring came on a little harder,the picco pulls better top end,but not a giant difference,other then db level.........Jim

brknwheel
11-27-2001, 10:14 PM
I like the Picco Pro pipe as well with the CVR on the XXXNT. I run one with an MIP header. The combination works well. Real smooth power band with plenty of stuff at the top.

Enrique.v
11-28-2001, 12:38 AM
Aaron I found what went wrong in the main at Hemet.
First my Receiver batt was low I'm using the Trinity batt then I lost almost half of my shock oil the Front Right and my Plastic Universal yoke holes are cracked I wasn't really giving it full bore down the straightway but maybe its to much power for the dogbones? Thats my back up engine in my NT right now so far its the fastest CVR I've ever ran


:D :D :D

winning edge designs
11-28-2001, 07:47 AM
The CV-R is definatly a very fast motor,likely all you need in a 2wd 1/10th truck. But I recently bought a .12-TR rear exhaust O.S. engine,heh heh.............It's in my Kyosho sedan,but i'll try one in my truck if it rips on-road! Probably a great eninge for really hooked up tracks and if it's smooth enough it may work on them all!.......Jim

bump-n-run
11-28-2001, 08:43 AM
Well i went with the paris ring because it was half the price of the picco at my LHS. I will probably just order one from tower because i think it was about $20 cheaper at tower so that way i will have both and i can test them both out.

purplerides
11-28-2001, 11:31 AM
Bump and run , you may find the turbo ring to be too much on the bottom end which could be a handful on slick tracks , the Picco pro lets the motor really open up on the top end and smooths out the bottom end , it really depends what your looking for where you run at some tracks one will be better then the other.

bump-n-run
11-28-2001, 12:56 PM
Thats what i figured so thats why im getting both of them. I only bought the paris ring last night because my LHS had a good price on it. From what i hear the track that i will be running on in Ocala has good traction.

losifreak2004
11-28-2001, 09:14 PM
I've said it once and I'll say it again; make a serious effort to find the old GTX pipe. I worship the ground Ron Rosseti walks on for recommending that thing. And Jim, it sounds like a chainsaw on steroids :D

Enrique - Check your truck before the race! Geez, I've never had that much go wrong in one main LOL. My truck's faster than yours, so that's not what broke your yokes :p

winning edge designs
11-28-2001, 09:17 PM
Losifreak,is that the same as the NXT pipe?,I have two of those,with the rubber stinger. I've had the stinger pinch closed,which stalled my engine while being marshalled,so I've shyed away from it. It did work though.....Jim

Enrique.v
11-28-2001, 09:42 PM
Aaron never had probs with my receiver packs...this was my first time i had one go down in a main I think this pack is messed up because my millennium trips off a lot when I try to charge it.
And I wasn't giving it full bore at all, I was running half throttle all day and in practice you saw want it could do down the straightway.. (at half throttle)

purplerides
11-29-2001, 01:11 PM
W.E.D. - the GTX pipe is similar in design but is shorter then the NXT and XXXNT pipe. i like the Picco pro pipe better for my local track anyways and most others i've race at.

NItro-Smoke
11-29-2001, 02:54 PM
What about the Rossi Pipe with the MIP header for the CV-R!! anyone out there with this combo? Im running it and it seems ok to me--its a little quite but ok.. Maybe Ill try the Picco-Pro and see what happens. What header does eveyone use with your particular pipe??:D

Enrique.v
11-29-2001, 05:10 PM
I use the AE Header I might try the MIP one..The AE works fine for me.

winning edge designs
11-29-2001, 05:33 PM
I use the TeamLosi non-pullstart header,it looks like the exact same one as the A/E pipe,which is good since it works!....Jim

losifreak2004
11-29-2001, 08:38 PM
I use the old Losi header also LOL, it doesn't reach up and over like the pull start one does. For the GTX (and new Losi pipe) here's a little factory trick.....:D.....go to a hardware store and pick up 3/8" or 1/2" thin walled metal pipe, and slide it in through the rubber with CA on it.

Enrique - That's the little stuff you gotta think about BEFORE the race!

Spinner2
11-29-2001, 09:31 PM
Some pics of my truck........ OS .15CV, O'Donnell Head, chassis redrilled for Associated tank...... Hitec 5945 mg (180 oz-in baby!) steering and airtronics basic throttle servo..... alum front/rear pivot blocks, graphite front arms and rear shock tower.... Os motor saver filter with dynamite extension, Aluminum brake clips... novak XXL receiver, trinity 1100 mah receiver pack... hitec Fm lynx radio.... (hitec makes great stuff that is affordable)

Spinner2
11-29-2001, 09:32 PM
pic2

Spinner2
11-29-2001, 09:33 PM
arr, heres pic2

Spinner2
11-29-2001, 09:34 PM
pic3, NOTICE the step-pins are trimmed,,,, so as not to get TOO much forward bite

Spinner2
11-29-2001, 09:36 PM
last pic...... also lunsfor Ti turnbuckles and traxxas captured ends all around, robinson racing alum. diff gear... well thats my truck! :D

Spinner2
11-29-2001, 09:38 PM
My next upgrade will be to get a picco pro pipe...... already got a black MIP header, the pipe will match it nicely- my stepdad has one and his has MUCH better top end then mine (same engine), Also need to get a new body...... ive thrashed this one to death

purplerides
11-29-2001, 10:20 PM
Spinner - 1) clean that thing it''ll go faster...LOL , not kiddin' though plus that's when i inspect and find a lot of little things to do to the truck , loose stuff etc. , and 2) your batt. wire is to close to the gear for me , you ever get that caught in the gear? , i run my wire out of the front of the batt. box through the bottom hole in the shock tower across the trans. wire tie it to the alum. trans brace and to the switch.

hey who's clean truck is that in the background? Dad's

why an AE tank? did you have problems with the Losi one? or is there some other reason? i don't know of any performance advantage , and the losi tank is quicker and easier to fill.

by the looks of it your having a ball running it , i guest that's the key that's what we all do it for.

Spinner2
11-29-2001, 10:33 PM
actually the wire isnt even remotely close to the spur... it just looks it in the pic... i clean the bearings in the hubs every run... the body and the front tires are all thats dirty and that wont affect anything...... and the truck in the backround is stepdads truck....... which i cleaned too... (he broke his finger) the body is just quite dirty...... hehe

Spinner2
11-29-2001, 10:35 PM
i had constant problems with the losi tanks..... so i redrilled for asc. tank, it is easier to route fuel line to the engine, and i think its easier to fill then the losi tank. Its personal preference, and i like it better!

losifreak2004
12-01-2001, 02:00 AM
Easier to route fuel line to the engine? It takes two inches of the stuff.....LOL

I've learned the art of fast pit stops with a Losi tank: catch the truck in your left hand, thumb through the windshield, lift lid, put fuel bottle through driver's side window, and tah-dah!

Spinner2 - Too much forward bite? There's no such thing LOL.

winning edge designs
12-01-2001, 09:08 PM
spinner,that's cool,whatever works for you. I myself run the stock tank and for pit stops i've found my best method is to pick up the truck with my left hand,thru the side window, and use my pointer finger to pull up on the lid at the same time I lift the truck!.........Fuel bottle in from the front windshield,almost without stopping forward momentum!

I also fabricated a simple peice of piano wire to hold my fuel line off of the HOT exhaust,routing the line around the head to the carb inlet from the back.

The associated tank foams the fuel a little less when full,but the TeamLosi tank seems to keep the truck running longer in the event of a flip. Some racers have added a 1/8th scale nipple into the tanks lid and plugged the stock exhaust pressure inlet to reduce foaming,but it hasn't bothered me enough to take the time,LOL...............Jim.

andy51289
12-02-2001, 05:33 PM
winning edge designs- Are you coming to the Money Race at Myrtle Beach (aka Badlands Fall Brawl) this weekend? I'll be there and with a whole bunch of other people. The track looks great from the pictures I've seen.

winning edge designs
12-02-2001, 09:36 PM
andy,doesn't look like i'll be able to make it,wasn't sure until today.Just too much this time of year,slow at work,etc. 8 hour drive. Florida state off-road series starts a new season the same weekend............Maybe next year,or for the watermelon at Aiken,SC.............:),Jim

NItro-Smoke
12-05-2001, 11:12 PM
WOW! got to bring the thread to the top again. Just did a full cleaning on the truck and found 4(all rear bearings trashed/busted)! had to go and get some dynamite red seals for the back! going to do some club racing Sat night and hopefully pull out a top 3 or better! later

makaluch
12-06-2001, 12:40 AM
Ya know,...I keep coming here and thinking of questions or problem I might be having. I just can't seem to think of any !!! This truck's just too dam good !!! LOL:D

losifreak2004
12-06-2001, 02:13 PM
Nitro-Smoke - I've heard of quite a few problems with the Dynamite red sealed bearings. If you haven't had any trouble. let me know!

Mark - Amen :D

dirtdevil
12-06-2001, 03:06 PM
Using the Boca Green Seal Bearings with absolutely no problems and the require no lubricating!! You can't beat that!!

losifreak2004
12-06-2001, 06:25 PM
I don't have a problem with the stock Losi bearings....

winning edge designs
12-06-2001, 07:18 PM
I have only had two rear hub bearings go out on me. Those were in my kit,which was a very early one,didn't even come in a regular box(,it was biult to make sure everything was clear in the instructions). They have not had problems in a while,since that batch of bearings. I also seem to notice most of the ones that have gone bad were not only from earlier kits,but run on dusty or dry tracks,mostly as well. I did replace the cracked bearings with fresh Losi bearings and have had no trouble since....Jim

NItro-Smoke
12-06-2001, 09:53 PM
Yea! those bearings that went out were the original ones, so they have been used well. I have not even ran those dynamites yet, but if they dont hold up, I will go with the Boca's! Other than those bearings my truck has been great--I love it! Im about to get me a T-Maxx for a nice toy and eventually get the .21 conversion for it! should be a fun build up project--a bit expensive as well..

scottro-nitro
12-06-2001, 11:02 PM
what do you guys think of the CVEC tunable pipe, i asked my LHS about tuned pipes and they sold me on the CVEC. im running on my XXXNT w/.15 picco, i havnt gotten to the track w/ it yet but in the street and yard it sure seemed to pick up alot of power(low end and top end) give me your thoughts on this pipe.

winning edge designs
12-06-2001, 11:23 PM
The Cvec is a proven performer,but at ROAR or Efra,or Ifmar races it is illegal. Since it has moving parts,it won't meet guidelines.....For a good Roar legal pipe,try the picco pro pipe,or RB's pipe,they work very well and are legal.....Too bad really,the way it's set-up now,you need multiple pipes for different style track,etc.......Jim

deprco7
12-07-2001, 10:02 PM
I recently finished building my xxxnt and so far I love it,this is my first r/c car so I dont kmow much about them,the main question I have is what kind of maintaince does the truck need.I want to race in the near future,so any tips/advice for a newbe would be great.Thanks

winning edge designs
12-07-2001, 11:02 PM
deprco7,I would pay attention to a few things,mostly screws loosening from vibration,slipper and diff slippage(Slipper yes,Diff never) and check your battery box,shock towers,hubs, etc. for small cracks after any hard tumbles. Always remember as well,its better to be a little too rich on the carb settings,then a little too lean!............Hope this helps,if you have any particular questions ask away,Jim

Jace2000
12-07-2001, 11:42 PM
Guys, has anyone tried the Team Kinwald XXX/XXXT slipper plate on their NT? The part number is 5058. I'm looking into getting it but I'm not sure if it'll fit on the XXX-NT.
Thanks in advance~!

losifreak2004
12-08-2001, 02:33 AM
Hitting in the cleanup spot, Jim LOL good posts.


Jace2000 - It's a straight fit. I've never run them on my gas truck, but I have them on my electric cars.

NItro-Smoke
12-09-2001, 11:04 AM
Hey guys, I cannot seem to find the part number for the graphite front arms for the XXX-NT anywhere!?? can you hook a brotha up! thanks

NItro-Smoke
12-09-2001, 11:07 AM
wouldnt you know it I found it!! back in a couple of threads! I ended up braking a front and rear last night, the truck was hauling butt and working good until then!!

losifreak2004
12-09-2001, 06:49 PM
Doh! That hurts.

Good news for the truck LOL. I won last night by a lap and a half. The only lap I wasn't ahead was the first one, I was in second.

*takes a bow* LOL

NItro-Smoke
12-09-2001, 06:52 PM
Hey, what springs/oil weight do you run in the rear?? a good all around combo is what Im looking for? what for the front as well?? thanks. Good running there Losi freak!

winning edge designs
12-09-2001, 11:20 PM
heh heh,good job losifreak!

For shock setting,I run orange springs ft, with 56 pistons and 35 wt oil,middle arm and #2 tower. For the rear I use red springs,56 pistons and 35 wt oil,middle arm and #3 tower....I also like A-#2 for the rear camber link and B-#3 up front with two washers under the inner ballstud...I use the Triton NT body also....Jim

OmegaTrac
12-10-2001, 12:44 AM
Hey,
My dad just got his RTR's motor tuned properly. Man, that Picco motor thats included really rips! Even in no traction conditions it still pulls wheelies.
Anyone know how much power the included motor makes?
-Chris

losifreak2004
12-10-2001, 09:15 PM
Best part? My dad finished second :D I made sure I let him know it on the way home.

OmegaTrac - Supposedly around 1 HP. It's a race engine!

I'm running red springs up front, with 30 wt. and 56 pistons, middle on the arm, hole #2 on the tower. Front camber link middle hole on the hub, outside hole on the bulkhead with one washer, hubs down. Ride height arms level, one degree neg. camber, one degree toe it.

Rear - orange springs, 40 wt. with 56 pistons. Outside hole on tower, inside on arm with Rocket City ends (more down travel) camber link inside hole on hub middle hole on shock tower. One degree hubs, spaced middle. 1.5 degrees positive camber, dogbones slightly above level.

CV-R at 220 degrees, stock head clearance. Losi non-pullstart header, GTX pipe.

Did I forget anything?

NItro-Smoke
12-10-2001, 11:02 PM
Yea, what clutch bell you runnin?? LOL!! you pretty much sumed it up with all you have..

Are the orange springs softer than the red or harder??

The other night when I was racing, my CV-R was running around 210 and it was haulin major tail!! such a great engine that thing is!!!!!!!!! I would hate to see how it would run up around 280 where they say it likes to be ran at..

purplerides
12-11-2001, 01:33 PM
nitro-smoke - the orange springs are 1 step harder then the reds, i'm running a similiar set-up to wedjim , but i have 32.5wt up front and run the b-2 camber link , and in the rear i run the #4 hole on the shock tower , i use trinity rear hubs with the a-hole with 2 washers.

i use the trinity hubs that use the standard shafts not the ones that require the short cvd's

losifreak2004
12-11-2001, 06:46 PM
I wonder if i forgot to hit send last time.....LOL

I'm running the 19 tooth clutch bell at Pro-Line, the 18 most other places, the 17 at HRH.

winning edge designs
12-11-2001, 08:57 PM
I'm running my CV-R with a new custom machined Cylinder head,made by a friend who owns a shop in south Florida. After several racers saw how much power my engine made and that it was only 185 degrees,they all bought one!.......I installed the head with no other changes and dropped 35-40 degrees in temp! Some say it looks like an 1/8th scale head!.....Plus it got rid of the me too blue head,haha,:),it's silver...Jim

losifreak2004
12-11-2001, 11:39 PM
Tell this guy to hook me up with a purple one.....I'll put his stickers on my truck LOL

I'm not kidding....*straight face*

NItro-Smoke
12-12-2001, 08:35 AM
Hey, how far are from Fort Walton Beach, Fl?? we have some good races down this way.. Is your friend willing to make a few more heads for the CV-R----interested.:D

winning edge designs
12-12-2001, 09:16 PM
Nitro,he lives in Ft lauderdale area,i'm in kissimee. I'll get his work nymber from a friend and post it on here as soon as I can. He has heads for O.S. CVR with mccoy plugs,or with O.S. plugs.He also makes heads for RB,Novarossi,etc. I'll let you know asap,Jim

NItro-Smoke
12-12-2001, 09:25 PM
Hey, would you happen to have a picture of it?? Thanks!

ivannaxray
12-12-2001, 11:38 PM
I have a Losi GTX but I bought it before really knowing gas vehicles so I was wondering if someone explain how to adjust the needle settings on OS cv-x I have broke the engine in but I would really like for it to idle better.

I am going to school in Melbourne but I live in Kissimme. I have been racing at this sand pit near davenport. They do full-sized stuff there too.

winning edge designs
12-13-2001, 09:05 PM
Here's a pic of the XXX-NT I race,with the Cylinder head made by Allen Abess,along with the Triton NT body from Losi coming out now.file:///C:/My%20Documents/Image%20Expert%20Images/December%2013,%202001/Image001.jpg

winning edge designs
12-13-2001, 09:07 PM
His phone number is(eastern.,daytime only) 1.954.658.8953....sorry about the big pics(saving me time) and the dirty truck,LOL. Here's a pic without body,file:///C:/My%20Documents/Image%20Expert%20Images/December%2013,%202001/Image002.jpg

tarvymoto
12-13-2001, 09:48 PM
Jim, Those pics didn't work for me:confused: . Any way I ready for a WED custom :cool: or 2.

NItro-Smoke
12-13-2001, 10:47 PM
Yea those picts would be nice to see, but it doesnt work??? I dont know how to post picts so I cant help you there..

losifreak2004
12-13-2001, 11:20 PM
Is he working for a company? I'll send a resume.....

tarvymoto
12-13-2001, 11:31 PM
I'm 16 and... Just kidding Freak:D

tarvymoto
12-13-2001, 11:33 PM
sounds like he just does them himself?

losifreak2004
12-14-2001, 07:04 PM
?

LOL

OK OK back to business.......

winning edge designs
12-14-2001, 09:49 PM
If nobody else can see the pics(I can see them when veiwing the thread) I'll repost them in a smaller format.

The Guy that made these Cylinder heads owns a Machine shop and does stuff for Scooters,go carts,Racing engines and R/C. I don't think he is looking to sponsor any racers,since he's just doing this in spare time for himself and it kind of took off without sponsoring anybody. In fact he can barely make them fast enough already!........Jim......Let me know if nobody else sees the pics.

purplerides
12-14-2001, 11:04 PM
wedjim - sorry but i can't see the pics either

andy51289
12-15-2001, 05:10 PM
wedjim- this is what you do. first you have to have those pictures on a WEB SITE, the you do [ IMG ]type the web address here[ /IMG ]. WITHOUT the spaces next the the "[ ]'s"what you did was type the file that the picture was on on your computer. that is why it didn't work.

winning edge designs
12-15-2001, 05:53 PM
Hmm,I put pics on the body painting contest thread the same way and it worked. At least nobody said that it didn't,LOL. I suppose I could post the pics on my website,www.jconcepts.net and then get the properties address from it,rather then my hard drive?.....I'll try again later. Jim

losifreak2004
12-15-2001, 10:43 PM
Nice way to throw in the company name there Jim......

cabbynate
12-15-2001, 10:57 PM
Can someone tell me what hop ups I really need for this truck?
I would like to get them when I get the truck and build the darn thing once. Thnks.:)

purplerides
12-16-2001, 02:22 PM
cabbynate - truck is great in stock form the only upgrade i would say you should get is titanium turnbuckels , i also like the alum. rear pivot block by trinity TK5056.

cabbynate
12-16-2001, 05:02 PM
Thanks purpleride,
I have both of those items and also the Trinity front block as well. I will get a .12CV-R to power it. I was thinking about a Picco Pro pipe for it as well. Any one running one of those? Also, which fuel should I fun? I know I need 20% but there are so many brands.
Any more input will really help.
Thanks. ;)

Spinner2
12-16-2001, 05:19 PM
I can attest to the picco pro........ best pipe i've ever used

andy51289
12-16-2001, 06:42 PM
OK I'm a little confused right now. :confused: What and how do you put a set screw in a hinge pin? I want to know how to do this because I hear that it is easier that those e-clips that come with the kit. :confused::confused:

Spinner2
12-16-2001, 06:51 PM
Andy, you *cant* put a set screw in a hinge pin...... the only place that you would do what i think your talking about is with the rear aluminum pivot block... it has threads in it that allow you to tighten a setscrew into the rear hingepins that go through it because they *arent * secured with e-clips, which keeps them still

andy51289
12-16-2001, 08:13 PM
Spinner2- NO the pro's do it on all of their hinge pins. Take a look at them on the Losi website.

winning edge designs
12-16-2001, 09:30 PM
cabbynate,
I use the picco pro pipe,it works excellent. I also use only O'donnel fuel. I've tried blu thunder and Trinity etc,all seem to power the truck well. But I notice more oil film left from the O'donnel,which leads me to believe they use a better grade of castor,since it's very close on oil content....Not positive though,but alot of the fast guys use it also,so it can't hurt!

As far as the hinge pins and e clips,grub screws,etc. If you want to install grub screws rather then use E-clips,you need to drill a 3/32 hole in the center of each "holding" part. Use an easy location to reach,yet a strong enough one to hold the screw tight. Then use a 4/40 set screw tightened until "snug" so as not to damage the hinge pin,or strip the hole you drilled.

The aluminum parts mostly have these holes drilled and tapped(since you can't cut threads into aluminum) for you already........Jim

TL_XXX-NT
12-16-2001, 10:00 PM
Hi, im new to the xxx-nt,im getting one for christmas and have a question. CAn i use batteries instead of a reciever pack.

winning edge designs
12-16-2001, 10:38 PM
You can use 4 AA's,but the holders aren't as reliable as a pre-biult pack made for recievers. Be sure to use a throttle return spring,or you could end up chasing your truck or doing some damage in the worst case. A loss of voltage to the reciever while the engine is running is NOT good!.......I've seen some companies selling 5 cell reciever packs for $19.99 mailorder.But you'd need a charger still at about $6 from radio shack...Jim

cabbynate
12-17-2001, 01:14 AM
Thanks Jim,
I got the Picco pro pipe today. I also got the Super Duty Lungsfords and a Associated carb restrictor .180 bore. (I don't think I will need all that power my first time running my gas truck).
What about the Associated diff spring? I got one anyway. I build good diff's With Losi stuff but I thought I would give the spring a try.

purplerides
12-17-2001, 09:59 AM
cabbynate - i also use the picco pro pipe,i love it , and i also use the front alum. bulkhead , and i also use an AE diff. spring ,i've haven't had any problems with that either , make sure when you install the trinity rear pivot block that the setscrews face up and are towards the back of the truck , i've seen several people install them upside down , so i figured i let you know ahead of time.

winning edge designs
12-17-2001, 10:02 AM
Cabbynate,I use the stock diff parts on mine. I think if Losi thought the spring was any better they would make a running change,they haven't. They always make improvements on thier equipment,but haven't had a problem since learning what the turck wants. By now most realize that the important factor is the slipper, vs. the diff adjustments,not the diff by itself. As long as the slipper slips before the diff,your tranny will live a long long time! I check mine before any long run,over 10 minutes. ...Good luck with your new truck,it's a blast!....Jim

cabbynate
12-17-2001, 12:21 PM
Thanks again purpleride and Jim,
I think with your help I will get this thing right the first time.
How about the Trinity alumnum break arm mounts and there Titanium break hub? Any use for these?

purplerides
12-17-2001, 01:59 PM
i do use the brake mounts also but i don't think there a must , they do seem to brake a little more consistant when traction is high and you can use a lot of brakes , the stock mounts flex a little i think , my stock ones were on the the truck the first 8 months when one of them did crack and break , then i put the trinity ones on. the brake hub is up to you i have one truck that has it and one that doesn't no difference.

andy51289
12-17-2001, 02:00 PM
Wouldn't the screw back out of the suspension arm, though?

winning edge designs
12-17-2001, 05:16 PM
I use the stock peices on my truck,but I do know of people who have broken the brake clips,so they are my next investment as well. My disc hub is a bit sloppy,but still owkrs well,not bad enough to replace. I figure a harder hub will only wear the rotor more instead?.........Jim

losifreak2004
12-17-2001, 11:53 PM
andy - Loctite is a wonderful thing......:p

I use Trinity fuel exclusively, but I'm a little biased towards Trinity products LOL

Jim - That's what I thought about the hub....

The stock brake clips handle the job no problem, but for people who don't know how to adjust their servo EPA's (End Point Adjustment) right, they snap them right off. I've never heard anyone have a problem with the stock units when that wasn't the cause......

*applauds Jim for his superior knowlege of XXX-NT magic*

cabbynate
12-18-2001, 01:55 AM
Clap, Clap, Clap, Clap,Clap.;)

winning edge designs
12-18-2001, 10:17 AM
OK,you guys don't have a different name on Tech talk,do you?LOL....You've earned another tidbit of mine i'll share right now.......

If you have any trouble breaking stock ballcups,go to your local LHS and see if they have a K&S rack. If they do, look for aluminum tubing in it that fits almost perfectly over the ballcups. Then carefully using a dremel cut it into sections to slide over the ballcups.( I even cut a taper on the underside to clear the pivot and install the tubing further on.) Using 5 minute epoxy in the tubing then sliding them together,allow 10 minutes for drying and the new SUPER DUTY ballcups are ready for those long mains with no breakage!............:),Jim

TL_XXX-NT
12-18-2001, 12:17 PM
Doent the kit come with a throttle return spring or do i have to purchase my own?

scottro-nitro
12-18-2001, 12:53 PM
Originally posted by cabbynate
Thanks again purpleride and Jim,
I think with your help I will get this thing right the first time.
How about the Trinity alumnum break arm mounts and there Titanium break hub? Any use for these? for any one interested i have an extra set of the trinity blue brake arm mounts i'll sell for $17 mailed priority(they sell for $16.99) i broke my original ones taking them off to clean the brake so i ordered the trinity from horizon, and they took forever getting here so i found some at the LHS

TL_XXX-NT
12-18-2001, 05:56 PM
I went t o radio shack today to get a charger and he had no idea of what i was talkin about. WHat is the name of thee connector. Isnt it tamiya. And are 5 cell packs for the reciever 6 volts. Thanks

losifreak2004
12-18-2001, 08:36 PM
Jim - Niiiiiice LOL. Or you can just get the yellow ball cups :p

TL - It comes with one. The pack should be 6 volts, but use one of the voltmeters they should have there to check it. You use Tamiya connectors? Pick up a set of Deans plugs, you don't have to worry about what comes on it, and you will lose less power to weak plugs.

winning edge designs
12-18-2001, 09:22 PM
Any A/C charger made to charge from 4.8 to 6.0 volts will work. You may need to purchase a connector as well,whatever fits your reciever or switch harness. I soldered mine to the chargers wiring(mine had a silver tracer on the positive wire),which was shown on the back of the package......Hope this helps,Jim

purplerides
12-18-2001, 11:18 PM
TL-XXX-NT - if your buying a charger for the receiver pack , if it's a fast charger make sure it can be set at .5amps output anything more and you'll smoke the pack in a heartbeat , note that's .5 amps , yes there's a decimal before the 5.

Spinner2
12-19-2001, 12:51 AM
I charge my 1100 Mah Trinity Ni-Mh pack at 0.8 amps, and 1 amp all the time on my intellipeak digital. It still puts out 1097 MaH after MUCH use

NItro-Smoke
12-19-2001, 02:23 PM
Yea I charge mine @.5 But I heard and have done at times go high as 1.0 Thats the highest you would want to go on those small packs! Keep it at .5 and it will be a little slower charging but will not be putting to much stress on the batts as well!! :p

TL_XXX-NT
12-19-2001, 08:56 PM
I have 2 question.

First i found a charger but it is rated at .6 amps, some of you said to charge it at .5. Is this all right.

And the deans plug. How do they work? Do i plug the chargerr end in one and the battery pack in the other? And if so is it a universal setup or are there differant types? And where can i find them?

Thanks for all your help

losifreak2004
12-19-2001, 10:32 PM
.6 is just fine.

Dean's plugs work the same way the "Tamiya" plugs do, they are just different in construction. Your LHS should have them, as well as online places like Tower and Stormer. One plug goes on the battery (female end!) and a male end goes on the charger.

scottro-nitro
12-19-2001, 11:16 PM
hey guys i was just on ebay and did a search under xxxnt and there was a carbon fiber brake disc on there, any one on here know anything about these?

losifreak2004
12-20-2001, 12:23 AM
I've also seen XXXT MFE's made in Mexico on eBay, as well as someone who was willing to come to your house and beat you up if you had the highest bid.

Before you go falling for something like that, have you had a problem with the stock one? A carbon fiber disk will also be more prone to heat....

tarvymoto
12-20-2001, 01:20 AM
but i wouldn't touch ebaiy with a ten foot MT:D

makaluch
12-20-2001, 01:33 AM
I hate payin money to get beat up !!! OOOFF ! POW ! WHAM ! Anyone remember the old batman series ??? LOL...Anyway...I've found some descent deals there...you just have to know what you're doing and what you're buying...

Speakin of EBAY...I saw some different diff balls(silicon nitride) and I was wonderin if anyone knows anything about them ?

Poolboy51
12-20-2001, 02:08 AM
Do you think anyone would care if I posted a thread for the Duratrax Real Race?

Spinner2
12-20-2001, 09:16 AM
Silicon Nitride balls are closer to perfect spheres than the stock carbide diff balls are, thus they make a longer lasting diff. However, they cost a TON of cash.

cabbynate
12-20-2001, 03:50 PM
I just built the diff for my NT and I used all the Losi stuff except the thrust baering, I used 3/32 ball instead. Anyway. the diff seems much tighter than my diffs for my electric car. Is this right?
When I was tightening it down it just got tight all the sudden instead of progressively like my electric diffs. What is up with that? :confused:

losifreak2004
12-20-2001, 08:01 PM
Did you use an actual bearing? I hope not!

The stock thrust bearing is made of the washers holding the balls in there, and the washers spin across them. They perform exactly the way they should be and nothing other than the stock unit should be used.

Here's how I look at the SiNi diff balls. Have you ever had a problem with the stock ones? There's no reason to plunk down that healthy amount of money for something that quite frankly isn't going to make a difference on the track.

winning edge designs
12-20-2001, 09:16 PM
Hey,easy on the Ebay guys,I have bought and sold alot of stuff on there!....I've gotten great deals and sold some stuff I no longer use,that was still in great shape.I also sell unclaimed paintjobs from customers who back out,quit racing,switch brands,etc....for Losi and other brands also!....Jim

losifreak2004
12-20-2001, 09:20 PM
What thread is this? Stick up for/bash on e-Bay? LOL

I don't like it, but many people make quite a deal......

Let's get back to the NT!!

winning edge designs
12-20-2001, 09:39 PM
Haven't had too much to say since finding out my Cyl head pic didn't work the way I thought.But i've got it figured out now,Just have to finish the deal so you'ze guys can see it.........:),Jim

rc10tc3drivr
12-20-2001, 10:24 PM
im getting a xxx-nt with a mugen .12 engine for christmas ( i some how stumblled into my parents bedroom and found it one day) anything i should know about the truck any parts break extremely easy

tarvymoto
12-21-2001, 12:42 AM
Hey Jim , I just got the new RCCA mag and saw a highlight on the Triton bodies. Ofcourse they used the bodies that you painted and they look sweet!!! I wish they would've given you some cred. By the way , how are mine coming? Can't wait to check'm out...Travis

losifreak2004
12-21-2001, 12:46 AM
rc10tc3drivr - Only the turnbuckles. Pick up a set of Lunsford Ti units. The rest of the car is plenty durable.

Jim - If I ever switch paint jobs I'm gonna have you paint it.....LOL. You psyched about the Nats in Miami? That's a long walk from here!!!

Spinner2
12-21-2001, 04:58 AM
I'll post some new pics of my truck tomorrow... since my last pics, I have....... added an amuminum arm to my servo for steering (hitec 5945mg)... picco pro pipe and GS coupler... took out *all* stock screws ans replaced with *stainless* steel screws... much less strippage and much shinier and pretty. New tranny case (tranny was in good shape for havin a gallon on it) took out the switch. Cleaned entire chassic, upper deck changed from stock piece to graphite for extra stiffness... new painted body on way. Hope to get enough $$ for christmas to buy a Lynx 3D with spectra module for my truck. Also, the spur gear *DID* grind into the right rear suspention arm because now losi ships all suspention arms with a bevel where it comes near the spur gear to prevent contact... my original stock arm didnt have that bevel. I *knew* that happened... i tore up a few spurs on hard landings when it contacted. Also got a trendy nylon air filter cover, it works great! This weekend I might buy some shock socks to keep me truck's shocks clean

dirtdevil
12-21-2001, 06:44 PM
You are right! the spur gear most definitely grinds a notch into the rear suspension arm!! The notch that is on the new arms still doesn't completely solve the problem.

winning edge designs
12-21-2001, 08:29 PM
Travis,mailed em out today!!!USPS priority mail...heh heh,:).Let me know what you think,everyone at work was like,"WOAH!". I think the short article Jason wrote included info about me painting them. It was likely edited out for space,etc.. But the top priority is selling the bodies,the paint work has been pretty steady anyway!

Losifreak,Ya,about 2 1/2 to 3 hour drive south of here,SWEEEEET! Should get a few weekends of practice time. It would be sweet to make the show in one class at least...;).


RCtc3,the only other parts i've broken are ballcups,on bad landings leveraging the wheel,etc. A very good fix I heard from my Machining buddy is to epoxy aluminum tubing over the ballcups. K&S sells it in 3 foot lengths for like $1.50,you cut it to fit with a dremel and glue it together,use tubing that just fits over the ballcup. Be sure to allow clearance for pivoting,etc.................Run the truck stock first,but keep this in mind if you have trouble(big jumps on your track,etc).......Jim

winning edge designs
12-21-2001, 08:30 PM
dirtdevil,in earlier posts we discovered the problem with the arm hitting the spur is a pivot block mounted incorrectly. No one with the pivot block mounted correctly has any problem,using stock size spurs.........Jim

Spinner2
12-21-2001, 09:37 PM
jim: i still grinded my arm after i fixed it the right way.

tarvymoto
12-21-2001, 11:10 PM
Hey Jim , thanks for the speedy turn-around on the bodies. I can't wait to see'm. Hope you guys on here have a nice Christmas!!!

winning edge designs
12-22-2001, 12:03 AM
Travis,no problem,thank you!

Spinner,it hits the spur,hmmm,mine has about an 1/8th inch of clearance,maybe a little less,not really even close....Jim

Spinner2
12-22-2001, 01:54 AM
perhaps different shock positions..... i also use traxxas mounts on the end of my shocks, not the stock losi ones. Mine might go farther in than yours..... about to do final prep before tomorrow's race...... be back later :cool:

Spinner2
12-22-2001, 04:59 PM
Just got home from the race. Finished THIRD in the A-Main! That my best finish ever, by far. I'm happy... didn't break a single part either

losifreak2004
12-23-2001, 02:48 AM
If the ends are shorter, then that is the problem right there. I have the arms with the notch cut into them, and it's about 1/8 of an inch, like Jim said.

Jim - Good thing it's in November.....gotta few races to make Losi wanna send me LOL. Now, which good luck charm, best friend or girlfriend....NO BRAINER!

INFERN06
12-24-2001, 06:40 PM
I don't know about you guys but I have never driven a better handling gas truck than the XXX-NT.During last years racing at our club I was able to almost keep on par with the 1/8th drivers lap times,helps to have a Rossi.:D

losifreak2004
12-24-2001, 07:22 PM
You're not the only one who thinks that. No matter what motor you have, most people will go faster with the NT....

Spinner2
12-25-2001, 01:46 AM
Perhaps thats why then...... I plan to buy the ALuminum front/rear hubs, and a Hitec 5925 digital for throttle/brake with my christmas cash

INFERN06
12-25-2001, 06:03 AM
The only aftermarket stuff on mine is the Lunsford rods,aluminum brake arm mounts and the titanium brake cog.These are the only things I found it needs.I would like to get a graphite tranny case though cuz they still oval out at the input shaft and give play in the casing.Other than those things and a paris ring pipe I have only modified my tank to have the pressure line through the lid instead of to the bottom of the tank to eliminate foaming.....it works awesome too and the small chamber of the lid acts as an air pulse diffuser (like having a real long length of tubing from pipe to tank)and my truck has never worked better since.
I also custom made some aluminum rear shock tower braces (because of my own stupidity of running with the body off) they also add to the strength of this thing.

winning edge designs
12-25-2001, 11:33 AM
Losifreak,exactly,nats in my home state,a few hours away,aahhhhhh! Should be a good time.

TeamLosi has a new/updated rear shock tower,under the same part number. It's more durable,with webbing in the stress area it used to crack at. They also have an improved trans case,same number as well.Whenever they make a "running change",the part number will be the same......Jim

cabbynate
12-25-2001, 12:49 PM
Jim,
Can you post your web site. I need to put it in my Favorites.
Thanks,
cabby:)

winning edge designs
12-25-2001, 01:05 PM
"cabby",my website and Jason Ruona's is www.jconcepts.net..it's not complete yet(like most) but it's coming along!......Jim

cabbynate
12-25-2001, 03:18 PM
Cool,
I'll keep an eye out for it. Will you be painting bodys? I though I seen somewhere you did...........

INFERN06
12-25-2001, 06:15 PM
Does the new shock tower look noticably different?,also what changes have been made to the tranny case?.Is it graphite?Sorry for the q's but I must get this thing bullet proof for our track,.....it's brutal.:D