Team Losi XXXNT forum v1.0

[cabbynate]

Has any one broke any of the Lungsford Super Duty ball studs?
I used them on the rear of my NT and was wondering if I shouuld expect problems. :confused: A guy at m track said he broke one but I did not see it.:rolleyes:

[tarvymoto]

I broke a rear camber link stock ball stud off into the shocktower. :D But that's it so far. I 've just replaced it w/ the Losi TI stud.

[cabbynate]

Tarvymoto,
I have broken the Losi Ti-ball studs before. I still use them in my front bulk head though. I have not broken any there yet.(Knock on wood);)

[INFERN06]

I think I will upgrade to the ti ball studs for next year as I have broken them before.I have also broken the stock black ball cups as well.The grey ones you buy on the tree are way better but I think I want to try the colored ones from MF.Red arent they?

[OmegaTrac]

Merry X-Mas all! Hope you have had a good x-mas, I know I did.


Im just posting to tell u all that i just got my new xxx-nt rtr this morning. All thats left is to break it in :)


--Chris

[INFERN06]

Congrats and may the victory's flow like the Nile.:D

[winning edge designs]

cabbynate,ya,we design bodies for Horizon and TeamLosi. I paint bodies and have for about 8 years now,turning something I started for myself into a way to support my habit(:/...). The pics in R/C car action about the horizon bodies...,we designed,tooled painted them all.


Inferno,no problem,the new tower has webbing molded into the top area,where it usually cracks on hard rear upside down landings. The trans case has improved bearing tolerances molded in.......That's one of my Favorite things about TeamLosi. When they see a need for an improvement,they do it,constant R&D!.....Jim

[losifreak2004]

INFERNO6 - I use the yellow ones, and I don't have a problem with it....

Jim - Unlike some other company we know.....LOL

OmegaTrac - My roommate just got one....it's sweeeeeeeeet.

Break a Ti ballstud? What did you hit?

And I don't think Losi makes a graphite tranny case for the XXX-NT......


Did I miss anything? And Merry Christmas to everyone....

[winning edge designs]

Losi', we both know all the top manufacturers keep improving thier equipment. Usually a manufacturer can't find out just what they need to do until thier kits get into the racers hands...No manufacturer is perfect,but doing thier best to make improvements is how we all get such awesome race cars!......Todays cars kick butt,compared to yesterdays!.........Jim

[losifreak2004]

Yeah yeah, tell that to TTT.....HAHA

But yes, today's equipment is MUCH better than that of past years.

[winning edge designs]

True,sometimes I wonder why I keep going back,friends tell me i'm crazy(most read the thread for laughs,but never post for obvious reasons).Then I remember the ones who really do have legitamate problems/questions are the ones I go there for anyway...:),Jim

[losifreak2004]

I get kinda sick of reading some of it, but I know quite a few people there.

Sean33 is a the name of a buddy of mine.....:D

[purplerides]

yea TTT was ok a couple of years ago but now it seems like a bunch of whiners that only want to complain about the trinity products they bought abused and didn't maintain and blame trinity because it didn't last forever , like an electric motor that's 6 months old ran 5 days a week never had new brushes put in it or a comm. cut and now it's junk...LOL oh and the guy will say he takes care of his stuff...LOL

btw any of you guys going to the crcrc gas race in Jan. , i'll be there for 4th year it's a lot a fun.

[cabbynate]

Is anyone using there anti-lock brake feature?

[purplerides]

nah i tried it a couple of times , i didn't like the feeling i set my brakes up so they don't lock up anyway , they might lock up the 6" or so if i kept them on hard until a complete stop and that's how i adjust them to the race surface , if i go to a track that has tons of traction i'll adjust them so that's all they lock up , i didn't like the anti-lock when i was in the slower sections of the track and if i had brake hard to pivot around a corner or to the inside of someone they were mush and wouldn't let do what i wanted to do.

[losifreak2004]

I don't use them either, the only time I ever use brakes anyway is to break rear traction.

Jim, you got the reins for a week. I leave until next Sunday in a few hours, so have fun LOL.

Keep racin

[winning edge designs]

Same here,if the brakes work too well,there is more room for error. But do keep in mind that during a long main,say 30 minutes,the brakes can fade a little from heat. So keep a little cushion on the setting. I make it so it can barely lock up the rear end full brakes in a 180 with good bite on the track.

Have fun,Losifreak,got your back brudda!.........Jim

[cabbynate]

Cool, thanks for the replys.:)

[Spinner2]

Ordered::: CLAWS chrome rims... two sets of silver step pins, trinity bomb one firm foam... (new front/rear tires) Dynamite heatsink engine mounts.... TTK aluminum front caster blocks (yummy blue) threaded front shock bodies, hitec 5925MG servo for throttle brake (already got 5945 for steering) When my parts come on monday or tues ill bolt em on and post some pics wit my new body on. Oh i also got some neon yello shock socks... yay!

[tarvymoto]

were did you get the shock socks> Torn creations? I'd like to pic some up and Torn is the only place I've seen them. I emailed Torn and didn't get a responce.:(

[Spinner2]

A guy at the local track makes them, as well as air filter covers made of the same material. They sell for $9 a set of four here.... I can buy some and send them to you for $10....(paypal) just let me know.

[tarvymoto]

Yeah , I'd appreciate that. My email is travymoto@aol.com Let me know. Color is not that big of deal...I'd say black or blue would be nice.

[Spinner2]

If you want some, send $10 to pouncer7@swirve.com through paypal. I'm a verified premier member. Send me a memo to my email and i'll ship em usps when i get them

[winning edge designs]

Tarvy,if spinner can't help you out give Superior Hobbies a call,they have em' in stock. And a TON of other stuff,including RC Car Action,haha...407.834.9299...........Tell em' I sent you,Jim Myers

[tarvymoto]

Maybe I'll give Superior a call. And by the way it's reall "Travy" , but I messed it up when I registered:D

[winning edge designs]

haha,ok cool.

Has everyone seen the new NT,GT and TMAXX bodies in RC Car Action this month yet from Horizon/Dynamite?...Jim

[Spinner2]

I've seen em. They look great

[cabbynate]

I'm running the Adam Dreak stander setup on a lommy/good bite track with razer-pins, step-pins and I'm getting alot of under steer. Can someone help? On power it pushs like a bus.:confused:

[Spinner2]

Cabby, try some red step pins in the FRONT... try stiffening your rear end, add an ounce of lead weight to the nose of the truck. all of these will help the steering under power

[cabbynate]

Thanks Spinner,

The rear end is pretty stiff now, I got 40wt, 56 pistons in now so I will try the step-pins up front. It may look funny but I bet I will be spankin some butt with them!!!!;)

[winning edge designs]

Cabby,
You can also try a few other things. One is "Razor Rib" fronts,rather then "Razor Pins". The razor pins are actually designed for harder packed tracks. Also if you are running added rear toe-in,try the stock 3 degrees,or even 2,by running 1 degree hubs with left on right,etc. From Memory I believe Adam runs 4 degrees rear toe?...Last thing to try is Steering servo forward,with one washer under each Ft inner turnbuckle ballstud............Let us know how it goes,There are more tricks to,Jim

[tarvymoto]

I talked to Bill at Superior today... He set me up with the shock sox and some other goodies;)

Oh yeah , I told'm you sent me

[winning edge designs]

Travy,
sweet,those dude have EVERYTHING man!haha........They even have the new Trinton bodies already,micro RS4 Orion stuff,like speedo's,motors,etc too.........Just amazing place to walk around in.Sometime I'll leave my credit card home though,LOL,just to be safe.........:),Jim

[nitroman1]

Hey guys, I have been having a lot of problems with my batt box breaking after being hit from a nose up landing too many times. Has anyone else busted theirs and if so have you come up with any solutions for a stronger setup? I wish losi would have stuck with the nxt setup for battery holder. Thanks in advance:)

nitroman1

[cabbynate]

Jim,

Thanks for the input. I was running the 1dg rear hubs so I will change that. Your right, Adam runs 4dg. I was looking at the razor-ribs it my LHS today so I think I will pick some up an try those along with the step-pins. Reds? I all ready run the servo forward. We race again Saterday so I will let you know.:)

Cabby

[rc10tc3drivr]

this isnt a direct question about the car but what kind of pipes do you guys run on your xxx-nts i just got mine put together i put a mugen mt12 on it

[cabbynate]

I run a Picco Pro pipe with a MIP header.:D

[winning edge designs]

cabby,I like silver fronts,they don't seem to fold over as easily. But reds will work,if there are some hard spots especially.


rc10,I also use the picco pro pipe on my XXX-NT. I've heard the RB pipes are very good as well. I even have a dynamite pipe on one of my on-road cars. So there are alot of possibilites. Until cash is free flowing,i'd stock with the pro pipe,:)...........Jim

[tarvymoto]

the trinity short blue touring pipe w/ a Picco 12 RR , seems to give a good power-band

[scottro-nitro]

whats up guys, i tried to order a picco pro pipe they were out of stock so i got a nova rossi .15 pipe, man my truck totally rips with this thing! one more thing what would a good header to use(picco .15 engine w/pull strt) im thinking an MIP

[NItro-Smoke]

Same Pipe Im running the Rossi! I love it --I run the MIP header with it as well, but its on a .12CV-R. I may try the Picco-Pro pipe to see if there is any differance??? I doubt it will be the truck is insanely fast now!!:D

[winning edge designs]

Scott,
Cool,the novarossi pipes are good too,as you know now. Any pipe will make good power,the main difference is where it "hits" or puts the peak power at. Since 2 strokes are so sensitive to intake and exhaust tuning playing with pipes and headers is a good way to learn what works for each kind of track,condition,etc. Only bad thing is it takes Time and Money to find all this information!..........From my experience a pipe like the A/E pipe(short radical divergence cone,almost flat front chamber)gives better "punch" and a pipe like the rossi,or Picco Pro gives good "top end" and a smoother hit. So short tracks favor one and longer tracks favor the other. Of course we could throw the traction issue into the equation as well.............:),Jim

[tarvymoto]

speaking of intake , What kind of air filter do you guys use? wright now I'm just using a Motor Savers w/ the offroad shield on it....Travis

[Spinner2]

O.S. Super filter with dynamite elbow, nylon filter cover sock on it as well

[purplerides]

i use the stock Losi one , i've also used the O.S. filters in the past and there good , i had a very bad experience with motor saver air filters back when they first came out and several of my buddies also had problems with them also , if ran on a dusty track the screen plugs up and causes an extremely rich condition , or like the problem i had it was very dusty and it was a fine almost like talcum powder consistency and it sucked the dirt right through and into the engine , piston and sleeve gone , and like a dummy i put a new piston and sleeve in , cleaned the filter and all broke motor in in the hotel parking lot , and sucked more dirt in the next day , all this happened at the 97" nats. i think it was 97" , it just made for a bad bad bad weekend , haven't tried them since and never will again , i'd run with no air cleaner before i'd put another one of them on , i might as well the result was the same.

[purplerides]

man that was a long post for me i guess the mention of them filters still touches a nerve...LOL

[tarvymoto]

well I haven't had a problem so far , I run on a nice blue groove track that is often sprayed down. In fact the trucks stay fairly clean , wich is nice. That said , I think I may retire this filter to an onroad car and get a new one for the NT. I plan on doing some traveling in the spring to as many races/tracks as I can and I don't want to take any chances. plus filters are cheap. Thanks for the info ... Travis

[winning edge designs]

I've had problems with motor sacers and K&N filter as well. They need to be very well maintained. That is constant oiling and cleaning of the holders and screens............I wouldn't run them on a sandy or dusty blue groove track. In fact I only Run O.S. and 1/8th scale one piece foam type filters..........Jim

[tarvymoto]

Jim , you wouldn't know the part # to that one piece filter would ya:rolleyes:

[igozoom]

Need some help. Nitro newbie w/ xxx nt rtr. Front end pushes (understeer?) in turns when I am on the gas at all. When I say on the gas, I mean very lightly. When I am off the gas, or, grabbing some brake, the truck turns on a gnat's eyelash.

Running stock, out of the box settings. Changed rear springs on truck to pink and that is it.

Please help a poor, ignorant, destitute, former lover of all things electric.

As info, I used to run a xxxt. Just ran the nt last weekend. The truck went so fast I thought I was going to have to go home and change my underwear!:eek: I laughed like a little kid all day!

God bless the trucks that make noise.

[tarvymoto]

a lower profile tire in the rear. The stock step pins can have so much grip that they can push the front end . Jim or Losifreak might be able to give some othe tuning advice?...Travis

[SirSpeedy]

Jimmmmeeey!!

I also have been running the Nitro Specialties NVX head on my CVR....phenomenol decrease in engine temp and fuel consumption, as well as a gain in power.

For all you guys that want one of these "super size" heads, Nitro Specialties is now offering their new NVX heads for all the popular .12, .15, and .21 racing engines, check out www.browardprecision.com

Tell him Tim and Jim sent you!!

[winning edge designs]

Travy,I don't know it off hand,but sunday i'm racing my V one R at Superior hobbies parking lot race,so i'll check and post it that night or monday.


igozoom,try running the A rear hub carrier holes and also try some different tires. The stpe pins are great on really muddy tracks,but will push a little on power.(tuff to get sterering with the front end barley on the ground!)...I like Ifmar pins,when steps push,Ifmars will have good bite,but free things up a bit.


Tim,finally,I couldn't think of the name of his shop,heh heh.........Thanks,see you at the races!..............Jim

[tarvymoto]

and good luck at Superior this weekend!!!

[tarvymoto]

Are you guys using slide or rotary carb engines in you NTs ? I'm using a slide(picco 12 rr) and here is my concern: the angle of the linkage rod from the servo to the carb is kind of sharp , so the carb is sort of pulled to the side & out(not just stait out). This causes the picco carb to sort of stick and causes an in consistant idle(just because the servo doesn't always return the carb to idle position(I have to give a touch of break to return it...and that can be anoying). You guys with me ? Also the slide carb set-up doesn't provide a good angle for the throtle return spring using the stock spring mounting points.(so I'm not using the spring) . Anyway I was also thinking about putting my RS12 (w/rotary) in the NT . Also thought about getting a new OS 12 tr w/rotary for the NT and using the picco slide in one off my TCs. hehe ...thanks Travis;) :rolleyes: :D :p

[NItro-Smoke]

Does anybody use the Trinity blue aluminum hub carriers(TK5103), the 2 degree hubs! Also are you using the MIP CVD's? Do you think there is a performance advantage to using these parts or mainly just for looks? Thanks :D

[tarvymoto]

both of these items. I personaly prefer MIP CVDs over the stock universal(not that I had a prob w/ the stock , other that the fact that they can be a pain to assemble). I also use the alum knuckles cause I liked how they looked :D and because I can use shims to raise the ball end to change roll center. I think Losifeak comented on the universal subject in an earlier post. If I remember correctly he prefers the stock universals for most sitiuations?.

[tarvymoto]

did you paint Jukka's XXXT body that he used at the 2001 Winter Champs last year? I was just checking out an old Xtreme RC mag and recognized what looked to be your work.:cool:

[Spinner2]

tarvy: I myself use a rotary carb but my stepad uses a slide carb. His linkage allows for full travel, consistant idle, return srping, everything. I'lll try and post a pic for ya tomorrow!

[tarvymoto]

whoops dbl post

[tarvymoto]

sorry for so many post tonight guys...I'm just having some fun!!!...Well I kept reading the Winter Champs 2001 coverage and then I spot Jim's mug....hehe... he got second in the Truck stock division..way to go Jim......Travis

[tarvymoto]

Thanks

[igozoom]

Thanks all, for the replys.

Jim, I will move to "a" rear hub carrier holes and see if that helps. Also, noticed at the track yesterday that most of the fast guys were running ifmars. It's amazing what you can learn at the track if you just pay attention!

Also noticed that most fast guys were running orange springs on the rear!?! Two different people said they were using stock shock pistons and 40 wt. This seems kind of stiff and slow. I have to admit, they were going mighty fast and hooking up!

Anyone have any thoughts on slowing compression/damping?

[purplerides]

you should be able to turn the picco's carb. to give it a straight pull by loosening the cinch bolt and turning carb.

[Spinner2]

My setup for our track is...... silver step pins front/rear, trinity bomb one firm inserts..... Red shocks front, inner hole on tower, outer hole on a-arms, 30 wt oil, stock pistons, no limiters. Orange shocks rear, outer hole on tower, upper innermost hole on arms, 35 wt oil, stock pistons w/ no limiters.

Have 1 ounce of lead weight on the front of the truck. This setup is perfect for high bite clay tracks, the truck has incredible on-power steering.

[tarvymoto]

after some adjustment I seem to have reached a good angle that doesn't hit the chassis brace. It worked like a charm. The carb now returns to idle perfectly...Thanks...Travis

[Spinner2]

MY new body on truck (Front shocks are not attached because I have threaded front bodies coming on tuesday, wasnt going to refill my old ones so im just waiting for them to get here) Engine isnt on either, nor is the pipe. HEatsink motor mounts coming so they are off, but at least you can see my new body :)

[Spinner2]

Here is a pic of his linkage, focus wasnt great but you can see everything fine. His carb is turned a slight bit, and this is how linkage is set up.

[igozoom]

Thanks Spinner2.

We have a clay track that is somewhat blue groove;however, lots of sand on the surface. I'll try shock placements and recommendations. Anything to get the truck to settle down. Of course, my stabbing the throttle and twisting on the steering wheel like "Wheel Of Fortune" probably isn't helping either.

[winning edge designs]

Travy,no I wasn't the painter of that body,but it is simliar to my style. I believe he has someone in Finland doing his painting,or Thunder Wessels,since he runs for Orion?...Hey wait,so do I,haha.

Ya,that's me in the Car Action Winterchamps article. That race was a ton of fun,i'm very happy with the resuls of course. Especially considering I qualified 4th,but had to come back from 10th in the first main to finish 2nd,and 10th in the 2nd main to finish 4th. After John Walters had locked it up and sat out main 3,I won a main,hahaha.

Some of you guys running slide carbs,may want to consider a rotary if your track is loose at all. If not the slide is the best,but for multiple surfaces it seems like the Rotary is more forgiving..........imo,Jim

[losifreak2004]

igozoom - That's what I thought at first, but I have been running that in my rear shocks, as are most of Team Losi's drivers. Nearly all the big guns are running Adam Drake's standard setup (available on www.teamlosi.com) or a slight variation of it.

Universals will free up the rear suspension on rougher tracks, but CVD's will help forward bite and the truck will square up faster out of corners. I run dogbones in almost all gas races, as big gas tracks almost always get really rough as the weekend goes on.

I run a rotary even on sticky tracks, gotta keep the front end on the ground somehow!

It's nice to be back. Keep racin!

Aaron

[cabbynate]

Jim-
Spinner-
Go figure, I get to the track and wouldn't you know it the track was hard as a rock!:eek: I went with red Ifmar studs, red Directionals and 0dg hubs. The truck ran great.
Thanks for the help. When the track is loamy I'll know what to do. :)
Cabby

[igozoom]

Thanks losifreak. Printed it off this morning. I will run the set up sheet and let everyone know (that cares) how it works for the new guy.

[winning edge designs]

cabby,on hard tracks I usually run Holeshots,at least for 10 minute or shorter races,heh.

.........Have you guys seen the cylinder heads yet from the web address posted above?.......sweet!I highly recommend these suckers,they really work!.I saw a bigger improvement then any other change HP wise........Jim

[winning edge designs]

btw,Welcome back Aaron!..........:),Jim

[purplerides]

yea Jim , i ordered one , i just got a O.S. 12TR there new rear exhaust , man that thing really has a small head on it , i don't even have it broken in all the way yet and i can tell it's prone to run hot , when i get this head we'll see what she does , i hope the weather up here clears up or i won't be able to finish breaking her in before the crcrc race , no biggy i guess the trusty old picco runs like a raped ape. Plus i also tried to get one for Picco G1-pro for the 1/8th scaler but he was out of them he told me to check back with him late next week on that one.

[winning edge designs]

Cool,Allen is a killer machinist,i'm very impressed with all his stuff.Can you tell,haha!..................I think you'll like it,since it actualy works and man it looks killer.People ask me if i'm running a .12 or not,haha......Jim

[tarvymoto]

hey guys , has anyone seen the new hardcore head for OSs . Looks like the machinest had a few drinks while making it..hehe . Anyway , it might be nice too $45 bucks at Stormer. What do you guys think? Subjectively speaking

[NItro-Smoke]

I know Im missing something here, but that "improved head" looks real close to the one on my CV-R!! What is so differant that it would make it run sooo much cooler? I really cant get that detailed of a look at it in the picts. :)

[spinnersmad]

Purplerides.... runs like a raped ape? That gave me a good laugh :rolleyes:

[Lord Radeon]

Since I got banned... grr... I ditched my spinner names and created me a new one. Its good ol spinner here, just new nick. Say hello to lord radeon :cool:

[tarvymoto]

how did you get banned?

[losifreak2004]

On the hub subject; two degrees is more than likely overkill, and zero is often only enough for semi-smooth/sticky tracks. The Losi one degree hubs are in my opinion, the way to go.

For hard packed tracks, try the T-Bone. Works great when there's dust.

igozoom - Anytime. I'm anxious to hear how you like it :D

Jim - Thanks for the kind words mate *feeling Aussie at the moment*

Aaron

[Lord Radeon]

I run losi two degree hubs on my truck.... have no problems at all!

[SirSpeedy]

Originally posted by NItro-Smoke
I know Im missing something here, but that "improved head" looks real close to the one on my CV-R!! What is so differant that it would make it run sooo much cooler? I really cant get that detailed of a look at it in the picts. :)

Well, go to www.browardprecision.com/nitrospecialties.html , and click on ".12 Heads".

The picture on the lower right is a OS TR, with the NVX head installed, and the stock head sitting next to it. The NVX is MUCH larger.....60% taller, and about 50% larger in diameter. In fact, the .12 heads are actually larger than many .21 heads!!

[purplerides]

i've tried the 2 degree hubs also my track really don't require them the 0 degree works best for me the 2 degree are ok but they can be a little hairy at the end of a long straight that is slick and requires some braking.

[Lord Radeon]

I have no problems braking mine... I guess it just depends on the track

[lowbugit]

Guys I am having a problem with my diff. It went out on me in a race a few weeks back. I have since bought to diff rebuild kits and both times while trying to tighten the diff after assembly it starts to tighten then the diff nut just gives up and I end up with a loose diff and metal shavings on the bolt. Everything is assembled according to the instructions accept i use 11 washers on the left side facing <<<<<<<<<<<<< any ideas what I could be doing wrong or is it just poor hardware. thanks, Kevin.

[Lord Radeon]

The diff nuts that come in the rebuilt kit are crappy from my experience. Go to your LHS and buy some 4/40 mini locknuts from Bolink or associated (preferable bolink) they are of much higher quality and will tighten much much better without stripping. Hammad Ghumman also makes a one piece allow diff nut that takes the place of the mini nut and the plastic adapter!

[winning edge designs]

Travy,go to www.browardprecision.com
And check out thier heads. They have them available in silver and blue,for .12,.15 and .21 eninges. They are at least 30% larger in diameter and about 2-3 rings higher in hieght then any standard OR most aftermarket heads!.....Plus the top beam is machined thicker for durability,the weight addition is minor compared to the temp and mileage improvement. Funny thing is they aren't much heavier anyway.

Lowbugit,I use the standard Losi mini nuts in my diffs,with no problem. Just how tight are you making the bolt? I stop after it feels pretty tight and install the parts into the tranny.Adjust the slipper to 5 turns out from lightly bottomed and recheck diff slippage.I usually tighten another 1/4 turn or so after a tank. The only times i've burnt down a diff is when I try and run the slipper almost locked.Even though there was no gain in performance the diff didn't like it much,LOL!.....Jim

[NItro-Smoke]

SirSpeedy, Now that I looked a little closer there is a big differance in size between the two! I may have to order me one and check it out.

[Lord Radeon]

Has anyone tried the TTK aluminum front caster blocks for the XXXNT? I got some today and they weigh as much as the plastic stock ones, they are actually much smaller in size! I'll post a pic in a few

[lowbugit]

Thanks for the replys guys. I am replacing the diff hardware with the transmission in the truck. I place the hardware in the correct side then hold a screwdriver to the bolt and turn the left wheel clockwise to tighten the diff. I have done this many times but lately the nut doesnt even hardly snug down good before it just gives and spins. I will try the HG part and see how that works out.

[purplerides]

lord radeon - a couple a guys at my local track use them and do very well with them , i have them and tried them and didn't like them , i picked up a serious push with them , i like a lot of steering and they took to much away for me at my local track , but my track gets slick , on a high bite track i'd probally give them another try because they do smooth out the steering also , it's just my local track gets slick and has some tight corners. several other guys at my track had the same opinion and several swear by them.

lowbudgit- the problem with the HG is it doesn't have the nylon lock on it and may come loose easy , try the stock ones again or find some stainless steel ones , some guys at my track found some stainless ones that have the nylon lock on them i don't know where they got them.

[cabbynate]

I have a question?
I have a CV-R and a friend told me to unbolt the head and turn it so you can see the glow plug from the front of the truck. the air will flow through from the front window at the glow plug. Will this help with cooling? He said it would.:confused:

[cabbynate]

Lord Radeon-
I use them on my XXX-T and if you use the AE pingpin you may want to use the outside hole on the bulkhead. If you use the middle one you may get to much of a push.;)

[purplerides]

cabby - yes you should turn the head 90 degrees to allow air the pass through the head.

[Lord Radeon]

Purplerides: The BoLink 4/40 mini locknuts are stainless steel ;) why ya think I was recommending them? hehe :rolleyes: ... anyway the HG nut wont strip out though, all you need to do is use some red loctite on it and you will have a bulletproof diff!

[Lord Radeon]

My XXX-NT........

Traxxas captured ends where possible
Graphite everything except front shock tower and one front arm (piece broke, havent bought another yet)
Aluminum Front Caster Blocks,
Aluminum Front Pivot Block
Hitec Aluminum Steering arm
Hitec 5945MG for steering
Hitec 5925MG for throttle/braking
Associated Fuel tank, redrilled chassis
Hitec Lynx Fm Radio w/ Novak XXL receiver
Aluminum Rear Pivot Block
Aluminum Brake clips
TTK Titanium Brake Hub
Step pins front and rear... Silver w/ trinity Bomb1 inserts
RPM Clawz chromed rims
Shock Socks
O.S. Super air filter with air filter sock (same material as shock socks) Dynamite filter elbow
O.S. .15CV with O'Donnell head
Picco Pro Pipe
MIP Header
GS Coupler
Dynamite heatsink engine mounts
2 degree rear hub carriers
Robinson Racing Aluminum Gear in diff
Stainless steel screws throughout whole truck
Trinity Receiver pack
Threaded F/R shock bodies
**Front**
30 Wt Oil, 55 pistons, red springs
**Rear**
35 Wt Oil, 56 pistons, orange springs

That about covers my truck at the current time! Questions/Comments welcome

**Pics uploading are messing up.... im workin on it

[Lord Radeon]

Also a tip, cut off the front two things off of the upper chassis brace, it does nothing for your truck. Run long screws through the front piece, and use a nylon locknut on top. This holds the truck together better, and lets you access the servo much better. You lose no stiffness.

[Lord Radeon]

hmm

[Lord Radeon]

stupid pics arent working

[Lord Radeon]

very very good... #2

[Lord Radeon]

3?

stupid thing...... pics are like warped and scrambled when i upload... grr

[Lord Radeon]

stupid thing...

[Lord Radeon]

last one (i hope)

ARRR this is driving me nuts.... 20 minutes and 3 times its come out right........ http://www.plauder-smilies.de/rough/greenchainsaw.gif

http://www.plauder-smilies.de/rough/itschy.gif

been another 15 and i still cant get this last one to post right......

5 more mins... gah forget it!

[Lord Radeon]

perhaps it will work now

[igozoom]

Hey Lord R, nice truck sir. Question if you don't mind. Why the zip ties through the head? I am guessing to keep the dirt out ?

Cabbynate, I take it you mean outside holes on rear shock tower? I have the trinity 2 deg rears and I have some vicious push working. Hoping losifreak and Jim's suspension set up and tire selection advice will have the front end hooking up this weekend.

Of course, the truck would go straight if I would stop yanking the wheel and stabbing the throttle. hehehe.

[NItro-Smoke]

Nice truck full of goodies. Do you happen to know the part number for the- Aluminum Front Pivot Block! Thanks

One more thing I would think that tieing the fuel filter to the exhaust coupler is not the best idea, you want to keep your fuel cool as possible and I doubt thats a cool place!! Add some more fule line to it and zip tie it somewhere else coooler! Just my thought..

[tarvymoto]

I'm from J-ville an had my NT at the Mills lane track(forget what you guys call it) last time I was in town(Thanksgiving). Also whats the status on the track issue and the church? I'll be back down there at the end of Feb...can't wait!!! Maybe I can attend a club race...Travis

[Lord Radeon]

Odd, stormer doesnt have the aluminum front block listed. I bought it from my LHS so i dont have a part# that i can reference to. the fuel filter doesnt even get hot to the touch on top of the coupler. MY header is long, EG: the metal part of it sticks into the pipe literally, making it similar to a one-piece setup. The fuel filter sits on top of the coupler (which is quite thick) and keeps the fuel line off of the engine heatsink head. I found this to be the best place for it.

igo - Zip ties...... dont keepdirt out necessarily, more for when im messing around at home with the track (not very often anymore) to protet the engine head from scratches on pavement or concrete

[winning edge designs]

For ANY R/C parts,try Superior hobbies,407.834.9299!!!..........If they don't have it,or can't get it,it isn't anything anyone wants!........Jim

[losifreak2004]

igozoom - If you need more steering after that, remove a washer under the front inside ballstud.

Lord Radeon - You cut those things off, and it looks hack LOL. But seriously, it does stop the servo from absorbing force.

I'll find that part number tomorrow.

Aaron

[cabbynate]

igozoom-
I am talking about the front bulkhead. It was for Lorad Radeon's new front caster blocks. You may need to go back to the 0dg hubs. I did.;)

[igozoom]

cabbynate, thanks. I was looking for holes that weren't there.hehehe

losifreak- the truck steers great.....front end only pushes while on the gas. I think part of the problem is the track being so loose on top with clay underneath. I took your advice and went back over the truck and set it up per the drake sheet. Changed springs, shock oil, and glued up some ifmars. I will let you know. Thanks for your continued tolerance and assistance.

Jim, can't say enough about Superior Hobbies. Called them after I saw your post. Had a shopping list of tough to find items. Everything I asked for they had in stock!!!! Also received my order in 1 day. I told them that you sent me.

[jasonrcfreak]

Greetings fellow XXX-nt'ers! I sit waiting patiently (yeah right) on the collets for my Picco .15. Thanks to Purplerides and Scottro for solving my dilema. Seems you can't use the Losi kit collet on a Picco motor. Won't work. Crap..........wish I would have known that 3 or 4 months ago!:D Now it's gonna be another couple of months b4 we start racing again here in the sunflower state. mmmmmmm.............maybe I need to move to SoCal or Florida!!
:p :p Can't wait to get to drop that bad boy back in there and kick some Associated boote'!!:D

Peace

[cabbynate]

Igozoom-

Are you talking about the Ifmar studs?
If you are they work great.(reds)?

[cabbynate]

gozoom

You will get less of a push with the Ifmar studs
if you were using the taper-pins.;)

[purplerides]

Nitro-smoke - the part # for the Trinity front bulkhead (aka pivot block) is TK5009

lord lord lord what are we going to do with you...LOL , by cutting off the front end of your top plate you cut away part of the stress member of the vehicle it all ties together that's why it's there , granted the chassis is thick and very stiff on it's own and though since you cut it away you can't flex it with your hands , but your hands can't exert the same forces the truck goes through on a rough landing, crash or tumble , it will flex and may eventually tweak the chassis.

[Lord Radeon]

A couple other guys do the same thing at my track. (3+ months set-up this way) and they have had no tweak problems. Trust me it doesnt help the truck at all... I do plan to design a removable metal "X" brace for the front though, like you sometimes see on 1/8 scale buggies to put in there at a later date

[igozoom]

cabbynate Yes sir the studs (red). Running them in the rear. Running razors? on the front due to the loose sand on top of the clay.

[cabbynate]

Razor-rib I hope? Razor-pins won't cut it. ;)

[winning edge designs]

iogzoom,thanks,if given a chance you'll see that I know what i'm talking about,at least 95% of the time,LOL!...........Nobody's perfect,well,maybe except Alissa Milano?.............:),Jim

[igozoom]

cabbynate- Yes sir, sorry razor ribs.

Was out wrenching away this evening. All pumped up to put my new goodies on the truck. Lunsford 3.5 mm super duty turnbuckles? Check ! 3.5 mm RPM Ball Ends? Check! 3.5 mini lock nut ? Ugh.....hmmmm........ #$%^&*!!!!! Forgot the lock nuts! Will any store have them in town? No !!!!!

I did however, sacrifice a dead chicken to the RC gods in the hopes that my Picco will be kind to me this weekend. The carb is giving me fits !!! Not a good beginner motor.

I ran it last Saturday and was tearing it up @ 210 degrees. It even had a couple of the vets raising eyebrows when I jumped on it hard. Idle was a little high, but I am working on it.

I go down Sunday, run two laps and the truck wets the bed. Barely fires up with glow on and and won't run without igniter on. Changed glow plugs, pulled needles, checked hoses, checked for air leaks....still nothing.

If it doesn't mind it's manners I will go straight down to the store for a CV-R. While I understand that the problem is most likely caused by my ignorance, it's not much fun to wrench on car at the track and not turn laps.

....and though I walk through the Valley Of Death with a Picco, I shall fear no evil !!!!!!!!!!!

Jim, just put my shock socks on from Superior. They look purdy !!!!! I am sure I will pick up another 10 miles an hour as the wind is no longer being deflected through the shock springs. hehehe.

[NItro-Smoke]

Thanks Purplerides for the part numbers on the Pivot block! I looked it up and it says for a XXX! Didnt specify for the NT... I guess its the same piece--correct? WOW, Trinity loves there Aluminum pieces $24.00!

Lord: If the filter is cool there, then go for it, just doesnt look like a cool place to lay but like you said those couplers are thick and may not get hot at all. Im racing this saturday and after a race Im going to touch the coulper and see how it is! Ill let you know.....Later

[Lord Radeon]

nitro the reason the coupler doesnt get hot is because no hot gases go through it. MY manifold sticks INTO my pipe, the coupler just keeps it airtight and keeps oil from leaking out.

Race day is saturday, ill let every1 know my thoughts on the new servo and the front blocks sat nite

[losifreak2004]

Lord - NO! Do NOT put the manifold in the pipe. If the two metal pieces rub together you will have major radio interference.

The top brace reaches up to the front for a reason. If you want to cut it, go for it. But trust me, it is not worth it. The chassis will feel the torture, and so will the servo.

igozoom - I have three younger siblings, patience is a virtue and I have plenty of it LOL. Anytime you need help, you can always hit me up with an e-mail also. The Picco is definitely not a user-friendly motor, but the OS carb can make a huge improvement. The CV-R is a great engine also. If your sleeve wears out in the Picco and you want to try something different, that is definitely worth looking at.

No such thing as "too high of an idle" unless your truck is creeping forward.

cabbynate - Razor Pins hook up excellent on hard packed tracks with dust on top. Almost always the tire of choice at Pro-Line Raceway here in CA.


Did I miss anything?

Aaron

[Lord Radeon]

Losi ---> I have run my truck for almost a month with manifold IN pipe... no problems with radio interference, i have a great radio system. (Airtronics+XXLFM) The chassis is holding up fine.... you guys just wont believe me agh,,, The servo is also doing fine. Its a top of the line, besides, if it breaks it warrantied! I love hitec

[purplerides]

nitro -smoke - yes all xxx series vehicles use the same front pivot block.

btw - they are pretty nice it has set screws to stop the hinge pins from making the holes egg shaped.

[igozoom]

OK everyone. Help the new guy. Who is running Lunsford 3.5 Super Duties on their NT?

I am confused. I bought the TB's. I bought the RPM 3.5 mm Turnbuckle ends. I even bought the 3.5 balls. One problem. No 3.5 mm nuts that seat in steering arms. I can't be the first knucklehead to run into this.

Setting aside the fact that I could have avoided this by purchasing the standards vs super duty, can someone tell me how they got around this ? Do I run standerd balls on the steering arms? Won't the TB ends pop off since they are oversized ?


losifreak-thanks. I assure you that I will continue to pester you. Jim and cabbynate too.

[cabbynate]

Igozoom-

You can use the RPM standerd (short) ballcups and Losi standerd ballstuds for the steering turnbuckles. They don't make them in gray so you will have to pick a color you like. I used yellow. Unless you ream out the bulkhead you will have to use 4-40 ballstuds there to. I went with the Losi Ti ballstuds there. Also, If you can get it use the Lunsford wax on the turnbuckle end so the standard ballcups go on easier.;)

[igozoom]

With you so far, cabbynate......one question. Did you stick with standard size ball studs for entire truck?

Do the 4-40 RPM ball cups really thread onto 3.5 mm's without splitting?

[cabbynate]

Yep, They fit with out splitting. Try to get the Lunsford wax, it makes the 3.5mm go on the standard RPM's easier. If you don't have any or can't get it easy, just use a little Losi white grease. Just a dab will do ya.

On the ballstud issue, I went with the superduty ball studs on the rear shock tower, the rear hub carrier and the front caster blocks. The rest are Losi Ti(though I don't think the Ti's are nessary for the steering links). ;)

[Lord Radeon]

I use normal lunsford turnbuckles for my truck, however the shortest one i removed, and used the next shortest it its place, and the longest in the place of the middle turnbuckle. Then i bought some TRAXXAS Ti turnbuckles (2) for the tmaxx, cut off 1/4 of the threads, and use them in the rear of my truck, they are HUGE thick, i use them with traxxas captured ends

[igozoom]

Thanks once again cabbynate and Lord R. No Lunsford wax so I will go with a dab of white grease. I will let you know how it goes.

[cabbynate]

iozoom-

Any time. The cool thing about the RPM ballcups is they flex a little before they brake. The standard Losi ones sometimes snap real easy. I have a friend that boiled the Losi ballcups for 10 mins and used those with his Superdutys and they work fine. He really put those through the test too!!!!:D I rather use the RPM's cause the superdutys are longer than the standard Losi turnbuckles and fit better. Yea, let me know how it works out.

[losifreak2004]

cabbynate the turnbuckle specialist.....has a nice ring to it LOL

Good post

igozoom - *puts catcher's gear on* I'm ready LOL

Keep em coming guys!

[jasonrcfreak]

Igozoom- I feel your pain with the Picco!! I'm giving mine maybe one or 2 more chances and if it doesn't behave, I'm turning it into an expensive paper weight!!:D

I'm gonna send it to it's room and go out and get the CV-R or a Mugen!

Which Picco are you runnin? I'm running a non-pull .15 with the round exhaust.

[tarvymoto]

I run a picco rear exhaust and it's a little moody but it has served me well. You have to be carefull not to flood the carb while starting it (and if it does get flooded-do the old -pull the glow plug out and bump it a few times on the starter while holding a towel over the cylinder.)

[jasonrcfreak]

well, with the help of a couple of people on here, we think we have the problem solved. You CAN NOT use the collet that came with the Losi XXX-NT kit on the Picco moter. It WILL NOT work! wish I'd have know that 4 months ago!! My Picco .15 is a side exhaust with slide carb on it. I had just put a new Nova Rossi pipe on it and it was running like a scalded dog!!:D

[igozoom]

Just got back from the track. I can't believe what a difference set up makes on a truck. It's like Santa came and switched trucks. I went so fast today I thought I passed my wife on her turbo charged broom!!!!hehehe

My Picco was running intermittently and I finally found the problem. Seems I had a gas tank air leak. One zip tie later, and the engine is running great. Ran it all day. Didn't burp or pass gas (hehehe) once. In fact, it ran like a dream, a 225* dream, a Britney Spears, quit yur grinnin and drop yur linen, dream !!!! (Jim, please feel free to substitute Alisa Milano to get the full effect !)

In fact, the truck went so fast today, I had to come home and touch myself!!! (Sorry, I will clean it up.)

So, for those that care, I installed the 3.5 mm turnbuckles w/ standard ball ends (thank you cabbynate !), glued up some ifmars(thanks cabbynate and losifreak), set up the suspension, Drake style (thanks again losifreak)and installed the Trinity aluminum brake mounts.

The track was absolutely horrific today. Potholes, kickers, and a inch of sand over clay. Still the truck hooked up !!!! The set up inspired confidence to push my driving abilities.

Seriously, I would like to thank everyone, especially Aaron, Jim, cabbynate and Lord R. Thank you for answering questions (sometimes for the 100th time) for the new guy. I can't remember the last time I had this much fun. ( I am an old guy)

There is a race next weekend. My first race....I am so excited!!!!
I will make you you proud, losifreak!!!!!

PS, anyone gets in my way and I'm putting them into the pipe !!!hehehe. Kidding !

John Sabol

[purplerides]

wedjim - got my new svx head hadn't had time to start it up though , does the Triton body give you more room around the cylinder head then the stock losi body? i got to cut out a lot more on the stock body then previously. if the Triton gives more room around the cylinder head let me know i'll go buy one and paint it up.

[tarvymoto]

Igozoom , I'm glad you've got it hooked up!!! Sounds as if the track may be in neglect(I'm sure on race day the guys will have it ready). I'll be in Jvillle in late febuary and plan on hitting a club race. I can't wait. I'll post some pics of my ride( now sporting a WED body..hehe) soon. I've just added some gooodies to the truck: Treaded shock bodies , trinity colars , trinity shock bushings , and have started using Drakes standard setup. This truck ROCKS. I love it. Also hope to race/attend quite a few races in FL this Spring and summer , including the winter champs and Losi's race at Minreg( w/ my XXX & XXXT). Anyway... I'd also like to thank all of the guys who regularly freaquent this tread....you can always learn something new!!!

[igozoom]

The Jacksonville track is in neglect. Currently, the city is thinking about putting in another flippin baseball field. We have a town meeting scheduled with our City Councilman this Wednesday. We are hoping that if they throw us out, they will give us some space in an additional park or area.

While it is nowhere near as elaborate as some of the tracks in Florida, it is a great place to get together with some good people. It's also been a great place to learn to drive. Now if someone would just buid an indoor truck to escape the summer heat !!! Or better yet, a lighted outdoor track!

tarveymoto, LMK when you will be in town and we can get together to talk trucks.

[tarvymoto]

We'll have to meet up at the track when I'm in town... I hope you guys get a good turn out at th town meeting. I'll let my brother know (if he doesn't already ) that it's Wednsday. Travis

[Lord Radeon]

Don't have long... ill write a better report later. Seems the aluminum caster blocks worked great for me, awesome hookup and awesome steering response. The digital throttle/brake servo also helped so much more than i thought it would.... its speed gave the car 2x better acceleration it was amazing for powering over the triple doubles... broke a front body mount but thats all!

[winning edge designs]

igozoom,you're crackin' me up,LOL!.......glad to see you got it worked out. Funny thing about gas racing,Most if not ALL of the time,the "big Problem" usually turns out to be something minro that is overlooked...Even by us Veterans,sshhhhhhh?!.

purpelrides,the head is clearly bigger,so it will need trimming past the "usual" size. It does seem to be more comfy in the "triton" body,but I've run it on the stock body as well,with some scissor work,heh. Had to remove almost all of the roll bar on the left side,but it goes!..........I just got another head for my V one R,i'm running a .12-TR in that moe!....:).........,Jim

[lowbugit]

Hey guys got a diff Guestion. I bought my NT used and have been getting good use from it. I did however let my diff get to loose in a race a couple weeks back and it went out. I rebuilt with the stock monster diff. Now I have tightened the diff but what exactly is meant by the diff barking, is that actually a noise or is it the way the diff feels when you check it. I just am wondering what I should be looking for. I know the slipper should give first but right now on mine it seems as if neither is giving. Any help would be appreciated, thanks Kevin.

[Lord Radeon]

never heard the term 'barking'. Set your slipper out at least four turns and your diff will be safe, period. You should sandpaper the glaze off of your slipper whenever you hear a kind of "whistling" noise coming from your truck when running it. This means your slipper is slipping way too much.

[purplerides]

thank's Jim , i know you ran that head/body combo and thought you'd have more insight as to how that body fit compared to the stock body because i never looked that close at the Triton for that aspect of fit i'll pick up a Triton body.

i got my os12tr all broken in , don't know how it is on the track yet but seems impressive during break in smoooooth.

[winning edge designs]

lowbudgit,the term "barking" is typically only used in electric racing,since gas is usually too loud to hear the diff bark. In an electric car under hard accel thru bumpy sections,or landing jumps,a diff can emit a loud err,Errrr,Errr,known as "barking". It only occurs when the diff is "slightly loose" or the slipper is "too tight"....Bad thing about gas is you'll not likely hear the noise,but you'll know it was happening when your diff is molten plastic,not good!


Also,Lord radeon is correct on the slipper settings. As long as your diff is tight after assembly and re-checked after break-in. Keep the slipper in between 4 and 5 turns out and everything will be great!

Purplerides,cool,both do fit,but the Triton has more room.......Jim

[jasonrcfreak]

Greetings and salutations

I've got a few questions for ya folks:

!) Can you use a rear exhaust engine on the XXX-NT? Will the manifold stick out the side of the car to far and interfere with anything??

2) In the stuff I've read, it seems that rotary carbs are prefered for off road use. Why is this?? What advantages/disadvantages does a slide card have over a rotary carb?? And visa versa.

3) These are the choices I'm thinking about:
O.S. .12 CV-R
Mugen MT-12
RB Concepts ??
rear or side exhaust?? slide or rotary carb??
Y'alls advice and opinions would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Jason:D
OH!! What about the O.S. TR series?? How do they differ from the CV-R's???

[Lord Radeon]

1)Rear exhaust can be used, however pick up a Triton NT body... they are wider to fit rear exhaust exhaust manifolds
2)Rotary carbs are preffered for simplicity and that they are more forgiving on the throttle. Slide carbs are much more "punchy" then rotaries, smoother throttle response off of idle which is bad if you are trigger happy. Factory guys run rotary, so you probably should too.
3)All of those are great engines, the CV-R or TR being my pick. The TR is rear exhaust, and differs from the CV-R in that it produces about .1 BHP and 1,000 rpms more... it also has a bigger carb, and consumes slightly less fuel. If you can afford one, go for it!!! :cool:

[OmegaTrac]

My first win came on Saturday afternoon in the novice B-Main. This XXX-NT really holds up! On my dads truck he got the Trinity Steal Hub Carriers without upgrading the ball stud and well, after a hard landing I snapped the ballstud and now it is stuck inside of the hubcarrier.How can he get the busted ballstud out of the hubcarrier?
After I broke his truck, I switched the battery pack into my RTR XXX-NT and won the b-main.


My RTR's Picoo.12RC has had 5 tanks through during break in, is it safe to lean it on out?


Thanks,
Chris

[jasonrcfreak]

Ok, thanks for the info Lord. Decisions.............decisions..............
decisions..............mmmmmmmmmmm..............

OH, who makes the Triton NT body?? Pro line????

[tarvymoto]

Losi # 8025 Triton for XXXNT. :)

[purplerides]

jason - a rear exhaust fits fine Trinity makes a new header specifically for trucks and fits fine under the stock body , actually it has more clearence then with the side exhaust , the problem before was all rear exhaust headers were made for touring cars now they make one for trucks and fits nicer.

i'll get the part# for it when i get home.

acourse if you do what i did and put an oversized head on the motor you may want the Triton body the give more clearence around the head as me and Jim were talking about.

[jasonrcfreak]

Thanks for the part# on the body and Thanks in advance for the part # on the Trinity manifold. Don't know what the heck I'm gonna do. I had a mugen MT-12 in a Yokomo GT4 and sh*t the bed Mildred!!! Good God it was fast!! :D But around here I see more O.S.'s in trucks than Mugens. Nice choice to have to make! :D

Oh Purpleride......is that manifold for a round exhaust or for the regular type with the 2 screws on it?

Thanks,
Jason

[rc10tc3drivr]

jason- could u post the way u broke ur mt-12 in i bought mine used but new and no instructions

[jasonrcfreak]

It's been so long since I had mine, I really don't remember. Someone on here will probably bill able to help you. You might try the nitro forum. :)

You live in Claremore??? Hell, I used to live in Broken Arrow!! What's your name?? I might know you. Do you race any at Adam's Creek??

Jason

[NItro-Smoke]

Just thought I would let my fellow Losi Nitro people know that if you want a nice Temp gun with laser site! Sears has them on sale for 71.99 until 19 Jan02! Its a craftsman so you know its good, RCCA tested it and liked it as well. I have been using mine for a while and its very nice!

http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summary/productsummary.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@0433119574.101 1031066@@@@&BV_EngineID=jgadcddddjdijbggcmgclchl.0&vertical=SEARS&bidsite=&pid=03482288000

[tarvymoto]

I'd love to get the part number for that manifold as well...:cool:

Also , what type of tire(compound/insert) do you guys run and on what surface (maybe your local or favorate track)? Do you guys run Losi stock inserts or do you run Proline 2stage or Ultra Firm?:confused: I just want to hear from all you guys about your tire choice and track surface;) ... Thanks..Travis

[purplerides]

jason - all rear exhaust motor's are round , the part# for the manifold is RC8125

[purplerides]

jason - all rear exhaust motor's are round , the Trinity part# for the manifold is RC8125

[tarvymoto]

Do you know of any shops that have this manifold in stock. Have you seen pictures? I tried Stormer and National...both have it on order.

Also , I'd like to here from you guys comment about my tire question:rolleyes:

[Lord Radeon]

I run ultra firm trinity bomb one inserts in tires all of the time... unless i just cant get any traction, and then i switch back to stock losi inserts

[rc10tc3drivr]

my names wes but i just started raceing at adams creek in the summer but i just got my xxx-nt for christmas so i havent got to race off raod yet

[cabbynate]

tarvymoto-

I'm still playing the tire game. I'm using mainly Losi Directionals (reds) and am trying all kinds of rears at my track. The track is now hard, dusty, low traction with big air jumps. I'm liking Losi Ifmar pins (reds) and Step-pins (reds) are ok too. T-2000 are not working but Pro-line Holeshots are. I have a set of Sprints (reds) I may try this week but I don't think you can get those anymore? Ifmar-Studs(reds) are not working on the NT but do ok on the XXXT. I use Trinity gray firms in the rears and Losi standerds up front. Also, Reptiles (reds) are not working. I hate the tire game!!!! :D

[rc10tc3drivr]

do they make a graphite "package" with like graphite a arms shock towers (like what they did with the xxx-s)

[tarvymoto]

probable because the graphite isn't all that important for the NT . For one , you have an aluminum chassis that is a stiffy:D . The graphite and other "hop-up" goodies are more of a eye candy-bench racer kind of thing.They don't really provide a huge performance advantage.

[losifreak2004]

Graphite and CVD's can hurt you on rough tracks.

Nate - Try the T-Bone. It doesn't look like they'd work, but I'm almost sure you'll be surprised.

All Losi Red compound tires come with Losi firm foam, and this is about the best you can get for gas truck, unless the track is hard packed. Red step pins and red directionals almost always work at Hemet.

[tarvymoto]

I seem to prefer a firmer (than stock) insert w/ red compound low-profile tires and the stock insert w/ silver and higher pro-file tires(regardless of compnd).:cool: :cool: :cool:

[cabbynate]

losifreak2004-

I will try some T-Bones(reds). I think I will glue up some Pro-Line Bow-ties too.;) The track is lose and kind of rutted so I am going to try some 2dg rear hubs. I have tryed the 1dg hubs and my rearend was still a little lose here and there with the best tires I had tryed for the day (Ifmar-pins) so we will see. The track I race on changes conditions every time I race on it but one thing that works for my when all else fails is to go back to Adam Dreak's standerd set-up. With his standerd set-up, I can at the very least get around the track with out to much of a problem. Last week I tryed some 35wt rear shock oil down from 40wt thinking Iwould get more rear traction and the rear end was all over the place. I put the 40wt back in and "BAM"!!!! Every thing is great.
Go figure. :)

[cabbynate]

How come no one has made a larger front bumper for the NT?:confused:

[igozoom]

OK .....more questions.

Is anyone running the Picco on the 3x nt rtr that can give me some approximate needle settings (FL)? I am only 1 1/2 turns out on the main on a 65* day. Low end needle is way out !!! Truck sounds thick at idle yet not loading up. Idle is high. Worried that I might be lean on the bottom and the top. Engine temp is 205-215, as high as 225 if I am driving well and consistently hard on the throttle. No one at the track is running the RTR/Picco. ( I feel special!)

Also noticed that that CVR's sound much cleaner at idle, with real quick throttle response. Do well tuned Picco's sound like the CVR's, or, do Picco's just sound thick down low?

I am building a 2nd truck for my wife. (Kind of like buying your wife a chainsaw for a birthday present!). Chose the the Dynamite 12 ps. I have read all previous posts and noticed that early kits had some problems. Has anyone built one recently? Has Losi corrected the problems?

Finally, what tool is everyone using to set toe/camber. Called Hudy and the nt set up board has just gone to production and won't be available until Feb/March.

I sure do yak a lot. Sorry !!!!!

[igozoom]

cabbynate

Let us know how the hubs work on a rough track. Based on the boards, looks like some have experienced the truck getting really loose during hard braking. I have a set, but have held off trying them as my truck does enough careening with me driving !!!!

[tarvymoto]

Sounds like you may be allitle lean on the top end and rich on the bottom end. Colder temps-slightly richer , High temps-leaner , High humidity-leaner , Low humidity-richer. I run the rear exhaust picco , but it sounds like you may be a bit lean at 1.5 turns out(high-spead needle). Maybe try to richen the top end a 1/4 turn and lean the low end 1/8 to 1/4 turn and se if that helps. Anyone else?...

[cabbynate]

igozoom-

You can use an RPM camber gauge. If you want to ajust your toe-in, you turn on your truck and tranmitter on and roll the truck up against a door, wall, something flat. Then you set the camber guage for say 1dg pos, standing behind the truck do your left front tire first. Place the the bottom part of the camber guage against the wall and the ajustable side aginst your tire and make your ajustment. Then do your right side. Snap!!:)
I had no clue how to get an accurate setting untill my friend Jeff showed me this trick. I owe him bigtime for this one. ;)
If I did not explain it right let me know and we can go through it again but if you have the guage or get one you should understand. You may say, why didn't I think of that???
I did.:rolleyes:

[StadiumJ]

Hi there. I am brand new to RC cars. I just bought a Limited Edition XXX-NT. I didn't want to build a car, and it seems I could save money with the packaged car/radio. Plus having pros build it can't hurt either! I have alot of questions so any of your time and knowledge is greatly appreciated. Well, here goes:

1. Where can I get the "best" or most compatible equipment for Losi's? For example, glow plugs, starter box, tools, etc. Any specific brands you recommend?

2. I have never broken in an engine and am almost afraid to do it. Where can I get lessons/videos/illustrated instructions on breaking in an engine? Should I use "first-run gas" or just the regular stuff? How do I know how much throttle I'm giving it? Is there an easy way to hold it at 25 % (radio programming, etc.)?

3. Why would I need a heat gun?

4. To me, the battery pack for the receiver is designed very poorly. You really have to remove those 4 tiny screws every 2 hours and change the battery pack? Do they make 4-battery rechargable packs? Would'nt it be a good idea to use Velcro to secure the pack and forget about the screws?

5. I have seen NOTHING about after-run oil in any of the documentation that came with the truck. Do I need it, and if so, what the heck do I do with it?


Thanks again for your time. I have recently learned that they are building an indoor off-road facility in my town and I can't wait to race! With a little help, I just might get the hang of this.

[tarvymoto]

1)
2) maybe go to duratrax's or traxxas's web site and look for a "how to break in" video to view online..via realplayer , quik time ect.. Also make sure you set up your starterbox to be perfectly alined w/ the flywheel. You'l have to remove the engine to get the best results.
3) temp gun is a not must . Use the spit test: A drop of spit placed on the on the head should not evaporate faster that 3-4 seconds. A how to break in video mentioned above will be more specific here.
4) most people use rechargable battery packs (trinity makes one for the NT) so that you don't have to remove the batts(you'll need a charger though)
5) you should use after-run oil (ecspecially if you're not going to run for a coulpe of days). .....
Hope that helps you out

[igozoom]

cabbynate and tarveymoto. Thanks.

[purplerides]

stadium - 1) with the Picco motor we found the mccoy 59 works best , for a starter box i recommend the Ofna 10250 and get a gell cell batt. and charger (box and batt. and charger for about $100.) i've used this starter for 4 years now without one problem. http://www.ace-hobbies.com/Images/Ofna/Starter_Boxes/starterbox.html there's a page with some info on it , check your lhs for them or order online , i perfer to support my lhs if you have a good one near you. tools find a good quality set of allen drivers and nut drivers mip , trinity and several others seel some nice ones that last a long time.
2) well the best thing is if you could find a experienced tuner in your area , but sometimes that's not good either because i've seen some guys that claim their experienced but i'd rather get down on my hands and knee's and push my truck before i'd let some people touch my truck...LOL , but seriously if you can find a experienced teacher that makes it easy , if not follow directions be patient , remember to make only small adjustments , run it rich a first , use quality fuel , your needles are probably pretty close already for break in , richen up the main needle a little more to make sure , if it keeps stalling there because it's to rich then lean it back up , follow directions.

3) never needed one myself.

4)Trinity makes a nice one for the XXXNT part# RC5300

5)at the end of a days run make sur tank is empty and try to start the truck a couple of times to make sure all fuel in motor is gone , put a dozen or so drops of marvel mystery oil down the carb. throte and in the glow plug hole , Note when putting after run in make sure when you take air cleaner off to put drops in that it's clean around the carb. you don't want the flush dirt into your motor , same goes for the glowplug area it is common for dirt to be trapped in the head there blow it out with air or something before you even remove the glowplug.

[winning edge designs]

Travy,I use Proline impact foams sometimes,on medium-high bite outdoor tracks. Also Trinity Bomb one grey foam,as well. On low-medium bite tracks or ones with fairly rough bumps,I use TeamLosi firm foams. I actually find the Losi foam works well under alot of conditions,but the trinity seems to be the "truest",maybe from being cut with a water jet? The Losi foam is also the least expensive and it works,but it's good to have a couple pair of the others incase.

stadium,looks like purple rides has you ocvered pretty well,but I'll add a few things as well.

1) For all my R/C needs,I check with Superior Hobbies(407.834.9299),they ship FAST,have a HUGE inventory and actually race,so they know whats going on. (Most regular mail order places have some lady for $6.50 per hour setting up your order?)
2)You used the word,"gas",i'm sure you know,but i'll say it incase...only use Model engine "fuel"!,i've seen people use regular unleaded,not pretty!!! Say with %20 fuel,thew same as you'll run with the engine if possible. I use O'donnel now,but i'm testing others not in production yet. I'll let you know if I find something better.
3)It's called a "temp gun". It is used as a ballpark way to see what temp the engine is running at,once you have it running right.It will not tell you if it's adjusted right,only what temp the engine is at,they ARE NOT the same.
4)Use a 3 lead switch assembly,that way you can recharge the pack in the truck,without even unplugging it,never mind removing it. Guess where I bought mine,LOL.
5)I rarely use "after run oil",or transmission fluid as it actually is. I only do so if I know the engine will sit a month or two. Alcohol is corrosive to metal parts,so letting the engine sit and absorb moisture and leaving fuel residue in the engine is bad. But only long term and especially in damp climates(like the garage). When I raced full size race cars we flushed the entire fuel system of alcohol and ran gas thru to clean out any remaining alcohol for storage of anything over a week.

Hope this helps you out,let us know if you need anything else...Jim

[tarvymoto]

Are the Impact foams two stage? Single/firm?...Thanks.. Travis

[Speedaholic]

Hey guys, im gettin a triple x-nt in about a week. It comes with a picco .15 engine. Are those engines fast? Is it as fast as the mugen mt 12? Thanks

[GTX]

Hey I just wanted to tell you guys that I am the Losi mod at a new BB, and there are some mod positions available and I would be glad to hook some people up, but you gotta hurry, they are going fast! http://pub58.ezboard.com/brchouse

[StadiumJ]

Thank all of you for your help. As you can imagine I am learning an incredible amount right now. Feel free to answer something that's already been answered, or just throw in a few tips you've picked up along the way. Remember I knew NOTHING about this stuff as of 3 days ago. ANY knowledge I can get I greatly appreciate.

With that said, let the learning continue....

6. What tire/foam combination do you recommend for running on city streets? I plan to have one set of tires for the street and one set for the off-road track.

7. What do you recommend to use to clean the truck? When should I start taking stuff apart and cleaning? (Clean part A every two weeks, rebuild part B after every run, etc.)

8. The Limited Edition came with a JR XR3 radio system. I understand that this is a good radio. My question is what can I do to make the truck "fail safe" so it stops if I lose contact? I believe more expensive radios have these features built in but I don't want to spend more money when I already have a good set.

9. What causes a glow plug to fail and how often does this usually happen? How can I test a glow plug?

10. Are there any "problem parts" on a XXX NT? You know, parts that regularly break that I should have spares of.


Thanks again for your time. I've had this thing for 3 days now and I still haven't started it yet. The suspense is killing me! But I am being patient and learning as much as possible before I even touch the thing. The LAST thing I want to do is to ruin my truck because of ignorance.

[Lord Radeon]

6) Proline street tires with FIRM foams will work great for street use.

7) Take some simple green or denatured alcohol and spray the truck... then blow off with compressed air, works wonders

8) Throttle return spring... comes with truck so you shouldnt have a problem

9) some plugs are bad ou tof box, crud in cylinder, use, too rich or lean, it happens. I replace the plug every 1/2 gallon of fuel to keep peak HP.

10)Problem parts: you might want to keep a spare rear shock tower, front and rear arms, spur gear & slipper pads, and diff gear on hand. There are no problem parts, but it cant hurt to have those on hand in case @#$^ happens.... just be sure to check your diff every few runs and make sure its tight

[StadiumJ]

Where is the diff gear and how do I check it?

Should I get this "fail-safe" device? (Do I need it?)http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/description.asp?prod=DYN2550

What kind of glow plug comes with the Limited Edition? Are they "hotter" or "cooler" than the McCoy 59's?

Do you remember when you were as clueless as am now? :)


Thanks again.

[Lord Radeon]

I remember being clueless but i built my truck, didnt get a RTR. The diff gear is inside the differential, the box that the gears are in. Instructions in your manual which i see you didnt read :rolleyes: tell you how to check the diff

[purplerides]

Tires

at my local track we use mainly losi directionals in all compounds depending on the day up front. with Trinity grey foams full width uncut.

rears we use m3 holeshots , with Trinity 2 stage foams TK1523 , we leave the foams full width and don't cut them at all , it gives us a little more sidebite , for about 2 weeks at the beginning of the season we use fuzzy "T"'s m3 but the wear quickly and go away. after the first week or two it's m3 hole shots the rest of the year.

the track is a hard pack clay/sand mixture and tends to get slick, surface is smooth 90% of the time and any rutts/holes that may develop are small and shallow and don't really affect the truck , the jumps are built to perfection with landing ramps , the jumps are so good the truck jumps the same from one side of the track to the other.

[purplerides]

Larger Bumper

Cabby - you not supposed to use the bumper...Hack ...LOL


sorry couldn't resist...hehe

[purplerides]

stadium - i live here in N.J. were Trinity is and we been messing with that motor , well since before they were for sale , i've had no luck with the picco plugs i can't remember which ones we tried , the mc59 is a hot plug , most .12's like a hot plug , and had no problems with them and with a properly tuned motor will last a long time.

[cabbynate]

Purplerides

I'm no hack!!!!!:p he,he he.
I just nosedive some of the jumps at our track and dig in and I hate that!!!!! :mad: If the NT had a larger bumper like the GT I would be a much happier camper. :) I guess I just need to sharpen my skills.:(

[losifreak2004]

Hey GTX, I'll post on that new board. I will be registered under Aaron Waldron.

Nate - Try jumping differently. If you nosedive, you are hitting the face of the jump too hard, or letting off the gas in the air. When you hit the base of the jump, let off briefly, then power up the jump. While in the air, throttle will lift the nose up, brakes will bring it down.

To test a plug, simply remove it from the engine and place it in your igniter. If it glows, it's good to go.

Lord Radeon - *pops popcorn into mouth* This is fun to watch. Keep it up.

Aaron

[cabbynate]

Aaron

I'm pretty good at keeping my composure in the air, it's just some of our jumps, well this jump than table top that you land on the down side of when done right get's you (no lie) 12 feet in the air and 20feet to the down side of the table top so if you go to far you land on hard flat dirt and OUCH!!!!! :eek: that hurts!!!!
And to lawn dart it well, I don't even have to tell that story.
I guss I could land on top of the table top but that's no fun and besides, you get no style points for that. :D

[winning edge designs]

Tarvy,I try and use ONLY single stage foam,unless there is No Way of being fast without multiple stage foam at a race. Hasn't happened yet!!! We have a saying around here,"I'd rather be in the B main,then glue foams!"...;).....We also kid each other about running 5 stage foam,etc,hahaha.


Stadium,if your going to do alot of 6),it's very important to be carefull with your brake end point adjustment. Alot of racers overdid the brakes to get the truck to lock up the rear tires on the street. Since the brakes aren't designed for hard street running,the tranny case,where the mounting screws thread in will soften and distort. Then you'll have a melted tranny case and misaligned brake assembly.

7)I clean my truck with compressed air(watch your eyes!) and disassemble before any decent size event to check things over better. I clean the disassembled parts in simple green and motor cleaner,depending on the part(metal parts motor cleaner,etc). Also WD-40 works wonders for keeping things clean longer....spray it on your arms,trans case,etc. before reassembly.

8)You do have a good radio,as was posted,throttle return spring should handle it,check it often to be sure it pulls off the throttle servo with the reciever switch in the off position and engine running.

9)Glow plugs go bad from,detonation,lean mixture,wear and tear,heat cycling....This is something alot of racers take for granted,so be good about changing it every few races. It has a BIG effect on ignition timing and can cause a power loss of 25% or more and poor fuel mileage,but still let the engine run decent otherwise. Just like a worn spark plug in a full size engine.

10)I keep rear hubs,diff gear,compound gear,brake clips and tranny case,battery box,ballcups,ballstuds(titanium are preffered),rear shock tower,a fuel tank and body clips are all handy to have..............hope this helps you out,if you need anything else ask away,Jim

[tl-xxx-nt-24]

how do u maKE THE THROTTLE RETURN SPRING COME BACK TO PREVENT IT FROM GOING during power loss

sorry bout the caps

[winning edge designs]

tl-xxx-nt-24,I connected mine from the servo bellcrank arm(throttle of course) to the eyelet,bolted down at the fuel tank mounting bolt. My servo is pretty strong,so it won't pull it back engine off,but it will engine running,from the vibration.....Jim

[tarvymoto]

would the Trinity "Front Caster Blocks" replace on the truck? Front spindles...carriers?:eek: :confused:

[Lord Radeon]

Tarvy take alook at this pic... should answer your q

[tarvymoto]

gets rid of both ehh..Thanks LR. How do you like'm...Travis

[Lord Radeon]

I've raced em only one whole weekend worth, but they sure seem to make my truck steer better. Much more adjustable... dont weigh any more than the stock ones (due to them being much smaller) and they dont flex. I love the little fellows :)

[cabbynate]

The 2dg rear hubs worked great! The track was well groomed and pretty smooth with OK traction. It got a little rutted by the end of the day(8th scales kill tracks)but my truck worked great. You should try them in pratice. What do ya got to lose? :)

[tarvymoto]

Would the Trinity "lightened splipper plates" and "TI brake shaft" have any performance effects on the NT , or does the power of a nitro engine make these upgrades insignificant? Jim? Losifreak? I'd like to hear anyone's comments. Thanks...Travis

[Lord Radeon]

The Ti brake shaft is stronger...... nothing but durability. Oh, it might be 0.0005% ligter as well. The brake shoes wouldnt make too much a difference i think

[losifreak2004]

The slipper plates don't make any noticeable difference on the NT really, but they help on electric cars, especially in stock.

nate - actually, 2 deg hubs would be a disadvantage in rough areas as opposed to 1's or zero's. Think of that when the track gets messed up.

travis - Only the hub carriers. The spindles are stock.

[tarvymoto]

hope this works. I panted this one. I'll post one w/ a WED lid too..

[tarvymoto]

w/ the lid off

[tarvymoto]

This is a group shot of my Losi's . The XXXbuggy and the NT are sporting WED tops(Jim remember these?) . The XXXS is sporting one of my own paintjobs.

[igozoom]

Thanks cabby. I will try the 2* on one truck. Also took Jim's advice and purchased a set of the 1* Losi's for my 2nd truck.

Raced for the first time Sunday. Tried Novice as Nitro GT class was averaging 5 seconds a lap faster times! :eek: Took second, getting soundly trounced by the same guy for both heat's and the main. While I would love to blame it on the truck, it was pure driver (choke)error. This week I am moving to the Nitro GT class. I am going to be nothing but a speed bump !!! If you want to go fast, you gotta race with the fast guys.

For anyone one else new to this hobby, I highly recommend you try racing a local club event. It is an abolute blast!

Cabby,Jim, Losifreak, Lord R, Tarvey, I wan't a piece of this guy that spanked and sent me to bed with no dinner. Stand by for major questions !!!!!!!

PS- Jim, if I buy one of your awesome bodies, will pick up 5 seconds a lap ??? hehehe

[SirSpeedy]

I know of one guy that picked up 12 seconds in back to back rounds of qualifying at one race......

The only change?

Winning Edge Designs paint!

[tarvymoto]

I'll be in Jacksonville in the midle of March. What's the lastest w/ the track? Will it still be ther..I hoping to catch a club race ...Travis

[SirSpeedy]

I know of one guy that picked up 12 seconds in back to back rounds of qualifying at one race......

The only change?

Winning Edge Designs paint!

[andy51289]

tarveymoto- What air filter is that that you use on your NT?

Also has anyothe trie a .21 air filter on their .12 engines? I know you would have to zip tie it to the bottom of a .12 air filter.

[andy51289]

Also when you guys use the Nitro Specialties head for engines, since it is 30 percent bigger, does it scrape on the ground when you flip? And Has anyone tried Bountyhunter's head?

[andy51289]

Sorry about all the posts...

Anyways since I havn't posted on this board in a while I thought I'd tell you about my truck: (I don't have pics so I'll describe it)

XXXNT
RB X12 Rear Exhaust engine
Associated Pipe
Graphite rear Arms
Aluminum Rear Pivot Block
Aluminum Brake Clips
AluminumShock Collars
Aluminum Front Brace
Yellow front bumper
Yellow body clips
Futaba S9402 throttle Servo
Not sure what steering servo
Captured ball ends all around
Driven with a Futaba 3PJS radio

I think thats all...

[Lord Radeon]

cool beans :cool:

[winning edge designs]

tarvy,the Carriers are the same as castor blocks,since they hold the spindle or outer steering arm at the angle designed into the part. So for example a 25 degree castor block,or carrier on a truck with 30 degrees of chassis kick up,would eliminate or remove 5 degrees of kingpin angle. A 30 degree block would be straight up,or zero degrees to leave the castor at 30.........Jim

[SirSpeedy]

The top of the NVX head comes up flush with the rear portion of the body....like the "bed" of the truck.

It is still far lower than the rear shock tower and roof of the body.

The head gets most of its added size from the increased diameter.

[winning edge designs]

igozoom,what Sirpseedy said really happened. A guy I did a body for ran his first qualifier with his ole,white job. You know the kind,white with white flames and white stripes,heh heh....For the second round he finally got my paintjob mounted and he went 12 seconds quicker,LOL,no lie!.............We could give credit to the fact he didn't crash as much,but that wouldn't sound as SWEEEEEET!!!...............haha,Jim

[tarvymoto]

It's a GPM filter. It uses a paper element filter on the inside , just has a nice big outer foam cover. It came with an extra foam cover too.

Jim , yeah I noticed the spindle stiking out after LR pointed them out. Do you run the Trinity or stock carriers?

Thanks...Travis

[NItro-Smoke]

Whats the Part# of your front aluminum sterring blocks? I have found the numbers for the 0 & 2* rear hubs but no luck with the fronts!! Thanks dude.

[tarvymoto]

TK5070...fron caster blocks

[tarvymoto]

I can't spell worth a flip. Sorry guys. Good thing my wife was an English major...hehe:p

[igozoom]

Tarvey, the meeting was cancelled. Now rescheduled for this Thursday at 7 PM, Terry Parker High School. Last I heard....if the city kills the track, they will provide an alternate site. I have to go to Iowa this Wednesday and Thursday (still haven't figured out who I p#ss#d off at the co :confused: ) so I won't have the dirt until Friday.

Sirspeedy, Jim..... 12 seconds and I won't ever crash again????? Heck, I should lap the TQ in the A Main 4 times in 10 minutes!!!!!!! That's it Jim, I gotta have one!

Seriously, I will email you when I return. Now, ya got anything for my golf game? hehehe

[winning edge designs]

Travy,I actually use all stock arms,hubs and carriers,etc on my truck. I hate aluminum,especially if it has to be blue.(sorry blue fans)....Aluminum seems to get sloppy faster,it weighs more,it only makes something else break instead.....and like I said,it's almost ALL BLUE! :(.



igozoom,you can check the site that already took my first web address choice.www.winningedgedesigns.com They sell golf club teddy bear covers,LMAO!.....That's how we ended up at jconcepts.net.......Jim

[tarvymoto]

Trinity marketers have me hooked on all the blue stuff.(if you couldn't tell from my ride). I supose I stared to long at Kinwald an Francis' rides when RCCA featured thier electric National wiining set-ups. Also I dug the article where the guy from RCNITRO did the "all graphite NT". :p

[StadiumJ]

Well, I finally got up the nerve to start up my XXX NT. It was nearly impossible to turn over at first. I removed the glow plug and put a little gas in. I got it to turn over without the glow plug in on the starter box (a little messy, but effective). After this, it finally started. The problem is that it was idling VERY high. I had to put the throttle adjustment on my radio to -67 before it stopped going forward by itself. A friend of mine has his at -9 and is cool. The guys down at the LHS said not to adjust the needles at all. But based on the extreme throttle, I'm starting to think they're wrong. I've only ran about 3/4 of a tank through it, but now I'm afraid I'll overheat it and ruin it. The guys at the LHS seem pretty limited in knowledge. I'm depending on you! Should I adjust the throttle needle? Is it safe to start the engine and then adjust the needle? How do I get it rich for the break in?

[cabbynate]

What kind of motor is it?
Is it the RTR?
We need more info.:)

[StadiumJ]

That's what's bugging me. I would think that the Losi team would have it set for break-in, but apparently not. It was really trying to drive away!

[NItro-Smoke]

thanks for the part numbers! I like the aluminum stuff too! I like it more for durability and a slight edge in runnig with the other guys if at all possible--yes I know practice is the number one thing and I dont do enough of that!! Im honest! http://www.plauder-smilies.de/rough/uzi.gif

[winning edge designs]

Stadium,the Picco engine in your truck IS NOT set for break in. To my knowledge they come set for easy starting and need to be richened for break-in. Check the engine instructions to be sure though. My RB engines all had to be richened almost 2 full turns for break in and my idle was high as well,it sounds like the same symptoms. You can gently turn in the high end needle and count the turns in, while you do. You should be between 2 and 1/2 to 4 turns out for starting new. The richer it will run the better for the first tank anyhow. I know i'm in the right setting for break in when I can go full throttle and the engine won't rev up past a few thousand rpm. It should also kind of gurgle during idle and want to stall. keep giving it a little gas,which actually leans it out a little,every few seconds. After a full tank of this you can lean it in 1/4 turn and do the process over again. Each tank go 1/4 turn leaner,after three,try and adjust it at the track under racing conditions. REMEMBER,"it's always better to be a little rich and keep your motor a while,then to be alittle lean and be faster,but buying a freshie in two weeks!"..............The high end determines top speed and RPM,as well as temp,the low end needle adjusts idle quality,transistion to high end and temp as well on tight tracks.................Be patient,good luck,Jim

[mi mafia]

Have to tell you guys a story. I have been racing a gt for awhile, beating my head up against the wall trying to get the thing to turn, nothng works can't get it to turn. Buddy buys the rtr xxxnt kit but doesn't care about driving it other than chasing cars up and the down the street, so i ask him if i can race it. He says sure, well the first time out with no pratice i qualified 20 seconds better than my best with the gt, second heat almost tq wind up qualifying 4th a-main finish 4th, i have never qualified in the a-main before always b . Truck is 100 % bone stock out of the box it's so much easier to race than gt, it's like night and day, needless to say buddy isn't getting his truck back anytime soon.

[purplerides]

stadium - follow what Jim said , i found on all of my Picco's when new around 2- 2 1/2 on the high end is plenty rich , to set the low end with air cleaner off (and motor off) look down the carb. throat with barrel wide open , there should be about a match's thickness between the needle and spray bar. if unsure reset it in this manner with carb. barrel wide open (to prevent damage to the spray bar) turn low end needle in (clockwise) until it stops don't force it , then turn out (counter clockwise) 3 - 3 1/2 turns. the idle screw should be open about 1 mm maybe a little more 1.5mm for break in should help it stop stalling during break in. it sounds as if your idle may be set too high and you adjusting drag brake into your radio to keep it from moving , after you get a tank or two through it , it will run easier. your better off not running that much drag brake if possible your clutch is engaged and motor is working but not going anywhere because your brakes are holding the truck, once you get the motor running realiably set the idle so the clutch disengages and no drag brakes reqiured for truck to stay still , if you want drag brakes as part of your set up for a track is one thing for handling but shouldn't be used to keep truck from rolling at a stop , that's what the idle screw is for , if you use drag brake to hold the truck still you'll find your push brake weak because the motor is still pushing the truck and you'll wear your brakes out , but get 6 - 8 tanks through it first before you worry about it , get that puppy broken in then take care of the fine adjustments.

Note: with Picco carb. take pressure off the idle screw before adjusting( open the barrel a little by hand or with radio) if there's a lot of press. on screw the threads in carb. get stressed and idle