Team Losi XXXNT forum v1.0

[tarvymoto]

Thanks..... I was just wondering if the permit is expired or does it expire Dec 2002?

[tarvymoto]

Thanks..... I was just wondering if the permit is expired or does it expire Dec 2002?


PS When I come down , If you still need some help I'll be glad to help. Getting things dialed are half the battle.

[cabbynate]

The more washers you use, the more rear traction you will get.
If your rear end is a little lose, than ad a washer or two. You can use up to six if i'm not mistaken.On my XXXT I use three. Two is a good starting point.
The inside hole is what most people use. I have one friend that uses standard ball studs because they brake off at the ball and you can remove them.Usually. The Losi Ti's break at the shaft and you can't get them out most of the time.

[INFERN06]

tarvymoto
Where did you get those spring covers and are they similar to shock shaft covers in their purpose?I would like to know who makes em.:D

[igozoom]

Inferno, sorry for butting in to your conversation. The spring covers are called Shock Savers which are mfg'd by M D W Enterprises out of Winter Park,FL. Email is mwalz007@aol.com. Can be purchased from Superior Hobby for about 10.00. ( I am starting to sound just like Jim.) hehehe

They basically keep dirt, sand, and unburned fuel off of your shock shafts, which should (in theory) let the seals and titanium nitride coated shock shafts live longer.

Inmo, not bad investment. Hope this helps.

Tarvey.....Would love some help with the truck. Need to learn how to set up, tune......and drive! :D Let me know when you will be in town.

[tl-xxx-nt-24]

im fixing to go tothe beachand i was wondering if i would need to cover the spur gear so sand wouldnt get in it or will sand even hurt it

[lositeamdriver]

ok i was wandering i have the xxxnt and i was wandering if a short shaft engine will fit i never tried one but i know the long ones do but i do not know about the short ones can some one tell me this befor i buy the endine

thx

[winning edge designs]

You could use a short shaft engine in the XXX-NT,but the TeamLosi clutch parts may not work. You might need GT parts,like flywheel,clutch bell,bearings (possibly) retaining nut,etc..............It will bolt in though and any 32 pitch clutch bell will mesh with the standard spur.......But,if you have yet to buy the engine,I'd just buy the standard crank eninge myself,...Jim

[lositeamdriver]

well i just pick up a o.s. cv with odonell head and carb carb restrickter so its all good

[Railman]

If any of you guys are interested in the Midwest Winter Gas races, check out the A Main truck results. After 30 minutes of racing, Jesse Robbers finished .46 seconds behind Adam Drake. Check it out! www.crcrc.com ....click on race results.
Joe

[bigb]

Hi guys, I just got my XXX-NT Limited Edition on Friday. Just about got it broke in. (darn snow made me have to wait)
Man, this thing is faster at 1/4 throttle than my rc10t3 is at full throttle. hehe (of course, that's with a stock motor and cheap battery, but still...)

[cabbynate]

Hello gentelmen,

I got one for you. The track I'm running on has gotten slippery and I'm having a hard time trying not to spinning out.
Should I 1. try a carb restrictor?(I'm running a CV-R)
2. Slow the throttle speed some? (I have an M8 with a Hitec 5925 throttle/break servo)
3. Put up this gas trusk and Stick to electric?

(JK on #3). :D

[tarvymoto]

You could try to gear up your clutch bell 1 tooth as long as the track isn't too tight

[cabbynate]

travymoto-

I never though of that.
Thanks.

[NItro-Smoke]

Exactly--I have a 20T bell on my CV-R and it took just a little off the botom end, but WOO-WEEE does it have some more top end down the straight--and it can still pick the front wheels off the ground when the power-band hits!!!! just plane awesome

[lositeamdriver]

hey cabby its me bubba i picked up a losi this week so ill be back email me bubbahatton@lvcm.com also i was wandering doe s any one have the trinity brace on therer truck the chassis one and does it help or are they weak?

[winning edge designs]

cabby,here are a few things you could try: More rear toe-in,more positive rear camber,different tires,carb restrictor, lighter ft and rear shock oil, a slightly looser slipper setting,depending on jumps,etc.............Unfortunatly for us mortals,the best method is throttle control,so it'll be there if you need it,like jumps,passing ,etc.....But try each of these one at a time and see how it does....Fresh rear tires usually make the biggest diff,Jim

[cabbynate]

W.E.D

Thanks for the input.
I am going to try all of these things. I have the carb restrictor in now and the throttle speed slowed just a bit and fresh tires too.
There are a few guys at my track that use 1dg pos camber in the rear so I may try that also. I really need to get this finger under control, I think that is the best advise. ;)

[bigb]

Hi guys,
My new XXX-NT is pulling to the right when I accelerate. The diff seems to be nice and tight. Could the diffe just be breaking in?

What else can cause it to pull like that?

thanks
B

[purplerides]

Hey Jim just got back from CRCRC i met Allen there , he did pretty good in both 1/10th scale and 1/8th scale , in 1/10th scale i ended up in the H- main finished 3rd which is 73rd out of 140 , and in 1/8th scale i finished 42nd out of 135 , not a bad weekend considering i'm not used to that kind of traction and corner speeds , at my local track the corner speeds are pretty low due to slick surface at crcrc the corner speeds are about 2 -3 times maybe even more then my local track so there's a little mental block there for me. Plus the race season here in N.J. was over at the end of oct. so i haven't race in three months, that was my forth year going to crcrc and can't wait until next year.

[StadiumJ]

Ok guys, I ran about 6 tanks through my XXX NT. Then I put some afterrun oil in (I may have put WAY too much in). The next day I tried to start it but it wouldn't turn over. I removed the glow plug and spit out any excess oil using the starter box. After it spit a bunch of oil out, I replaced the glow plug and tried to start again. The engine is stuck. The piston is locked in the "up" position. I removed the backplate and the head. Even with these removed, the piston wouldn't budge. I can't really tell, but I don't think there is a problem with the connecting rod. Is there some reason the crankshaft wouldn't be able to turn? What do you think? Is there a warranty on these things?

[Lord Radeon]

bigb: how strong is your steering servo? it might not be strong enough to hold the wheels straight. Other things to check are: straight lineup of wheels at idle, front caster and toe in, and rear toe in. Make sure they are all even

[makaluch]

Probably a day late and a dollar short...when cooling between tanks it's a good idea to roll the piston to BDC (bottom dead center). It keeps the sleeve from cooling and squeezing the piston when new.

Your engine's not fully broken in and you may have squeezed a ring in the top of the sleeve. If damage is done, there's not much you can do. It'll run but it will shorten the life of the engine.

Get a heat gun or blow-dryer and heat just under the head at the top of the sleeve....even and all the way around the engine. This should free up the piston. Pre-heat before starting when you're in cold weather. Always roll to bottom after running. I've made it a habit. I even do it when corner marshalling a stall or flameout:rolleyes:

[bigb]

Lord Radeon,
I have the RTR setup. And I'm running everything the way it came. The steering servo is the JR Z550...IIRC it has 60 oz of torque.
The steering trim is straight. If I accel slowly, it goes nice and straight, it's only when I throttle past about 1/3 that it starts pulling.

I'm going to finish leaning it out for break in and see how it's doing then. I have a feeling that the diff is just breaking in also. I've checked it after every run and it hasn't needed tightening yet.(I have about 6 tanks through it).


If it hasn't cleared up by then, I will look into the caster and toe-in.

Thanks

B

[bigb]

StadiumJ,
This probably isn't the case, but my buddy just had his engine "seize" on his new gt. It ended up being a rock stuck between his transmission and his clutch bell.
Boy did we feel stupid bringing it in to the LHS to find out what was wrong :)

B

[StadiumJ]

makaluch: I was able to turn it over on the starter box with the glow plug removed (when I sprayed the excess oil out). Could this "sqeezing of the ring" happen suddenly. How can I tell if this is the problem? Also, how do I know the piston is at the bottom with the glow plug on?

BigB: How could I tell if that was the problem on mine? I feel stupid just thinking of my truck. I know nothing about these things and the guys at the LHS are not helpfull to newbies. Apparently they are offended that I want to spend money there (a-holes). For example, the guy spent about 10 seconds explaining how to break it in to me. He told me 6 times not to touch the screws. After I got it started for the first time, it was idling VERY high. I ran about 3/4 of a tank through it like that (I was thinking the guy actually knew what he was talking about). I spent the whole time stopping since it was taking off by itself. So, did I ruin the engine right off the start? If so, can I take it back since it's the shop guy's fault? My frustration and confusion are causing me to babble, so I'll stop. PLEASE HELP!

And, seriously, is there any warranty on these things (It's only a couple weeks old and I have had nothing but problems with it). My friend bought one at the same time and hasn't had a single problem. I'm starting to think I have a lemon :(

[bigb]

StadiumJ,
Sounds similar to me and my buddy. I've had very little trouble and he's getting frustrated with his rc10gt flooding all the time.

Just look around for a rock stuck between something. :)

So, without the glow plug, it will turn over? If that is the case, you should try putting a rag over the engine with the glow plug out and use the starter box for 10 secs or so. That's how I clear mine out.

Another thing you can try is to disconnect the fuel line from the carb and try starting that way. If you have too much fuel and oil in the engine, this always seems to work for me. I just unplug the fuel line and start it like normal. I've had it run for 30 seconds on the gas that was hanging out in the engine!!! :)


I'm not really sure of what the problem is, but hopefully a combination of what has worked for me might help.

I'm pretty new at this myself, so you may want to listen to someone else before trying anything I've suggested.

OH, and about your LHS being "A-holes," if there is a different LHS in your area, I would start using that one. If not, you may try talking to the manager and allude to not spending money there anymore if you don't get the help you feel you should get. That's the thing about this hobby, it isn't a one time purchase. you will need to keep buying parts, fuel, glow plugs, etc, so if they want to keep your business, they should help you more.

Where you from, anyways?

B

[NitroRacer10]

Hey guys I have some losi truck tires in the 4 sale thread. All are in really good shape and its not a bad deal. 10 bucks a pair and I am throwing in a brand new pair of Holeshots in package and 2 pairs of Losi rim in package.

[RacerD]

I am confust ..I want to buy a XXX-NT, I`ve seen Lots on E-Bay but yet some are different..What is the part # for the newest model??

[StadiumJ]

Ok, I don't think I'm being clear. Let me try again.

I put too much afterrun oil in the glow plug hole & in the carburetor. The next day, I tried to start it but it wouldn't turn over. So I pulled the glow plug out. I got it to turn over on the starter box, at which point it sprayed oil everywhere. IMMEDIATELY after this, I replaced the glow plug at tried to start it. It wouldn't budge. It hasn't budged since. Even when I removed the backplate, head, and exhaust : no movement. The piston is stuck in the "up" position. Apparently whatever went wrong happened after the oil came out. Could it be "run dry"? I don't understand how it could go from the moving freely state to the frozen state in an instant. Is there something that could break within the crankshaft that would stop it from moving?

Oh, and I'm still hoping somebody's going to tell me I can send this engine back! Is there a warranty on these things?

[StadiumJ]

The XXX NT comes in two flavors. One is the kit for around $300. It is the one you have to build. It does not come with a radio or engine. There is also a "ready-to-race" version. It is around $500, is prebuilt by pros, and comes with an excellent radio & engine. As far as what they're advertising on EBAY, you're on your own. Hope this helps.

http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/NT_RTR.htm

[bigb]

StadiumJ,
I have no idea if you can return it. I think your best bet would be to try giving Losi a call and see if they can help you figure it out. Unless someone on here can help you.

Sorry I couldn't be more helpfull. :(

B

[igozoom]

StadiumJ, try calling Losi for starters. Tell them exactly what you did. While I am not sure if they (Trinity Picco?) would warranty the motor, I have heard that they always bend over backwards to help everyone who purchases their products.

Did you try the hair dryer routine?

I too am knew to this. While some people will not help feeling that you must earn your nitro stripes, I have found that the majority of people in this hobby will give you their last spare c clip if you were to ask!!!!!hehehe

I hope you stick with it. Do not let a single incident wipe out your desire to participate in this hobby. I have learned some lessons along the way. After two months of intense reading and study, my truck is no longer a mystery. My nt rtr has been very dependable.

While I still have a ton to learn, I will be glad to try and help you any way I can.

I have found that unless the LHS actively races, they may or may not have the knowledge to help you in troubled times.

[Racin Rev]

Start checking things one thing at a time. Start with the easy stuff. do the rear wheels turn? if so what about the clutch? if so what about the flywheel? (it shouldn't if you are locked but it explains volumes if it does. ) Open up the carb and turn the car over and try to turn the engine over with a finger (not the starter box, I wouldn't advise you to do that even from the top with the glow plug out. too much opportunity to damage something without knowing it. ) Then try the hair dryer routene (I agree that it should be done with an engine which isn't broken in especially in the cold. ) then, if all else fails take it to your LHS if you bought it from them and see if they have anyone knowledgeable and willing to look at it. If they hassle you you should find another lhs. but if you didn't buy it from them be prepared to pay for their help. (though, if they really want to win you over they might look at it for free) Only then would I call someone at a factory. They can't see it and they will have a hard time diagnosing it over the phone. I think that many engines are warrenteed for defects in materials and workmanship, but if you damaged it they won't cover you. (and i have heard that trinity is not so supportive of the picco engines. )

[purplerides]

stadium - i have had motors stick at top dead center when they new and during the break in process , that couldn't be turned by starter box or hand glug plug in or out , i've had to pry the flywheel over (motor was still in car) with a screw driver between flywheel and chassis. if motor is out of car you may grab flywheel with channel locks , but first contact team losi to see what route they want to go there usually pretty good about warrenty , if you get no satisfaction with them then you may want to try to free it up as mentioned above because then you will have nothing to lose , but i am pretty sure your motor being new and not broken in is just stuck at TDC , it unlikely that anything is wrong inside , but check with losi first to see how they want to handle it so you don't void any warrenties.

[lositeamdriver]

stadium back the glow plug out a few turn and see if it turns over if it does the try to start it schopuld start then once it starts screw the glow plug back in i can tthink of any thing else on 1\8 when they are cold you have to do this and also it might be fuel locked

[winning edge designs]

stadiumj,the manufacturers will usually only warranty defects in the manufacturing. If you look in your paper work it will likely say,"warranty does not cover,misuse,abuse,over revving,or dirt entry damage,etc."....In other words they will say,"send it in and we'll look at it".Then they will say it's your fault,not thiers,usually.
You probably have a bent connecting rod,or piston damage. A thourough visual inspection by a decent hobby shop should find the trouble.


purplerides,cool,Allen is pretty fast around here,so it's good to see he did well. You too!...........Jim

[nitroman1]

Does anyone know the stock # for losi's threaded shock bodies for f or r? Thx:)

[cabbynate]

nitroman-

A-5055 for the front and A-5056 for the rear.:)

[nitroman1]

hey thx cabb:D

[StadiumJ]

Ok guys, the LHS guys said "it's broke dude". They want to send it back to the manufacturer. So let's say that I don't want to wait a week for someone else to tell me "it's broke" and I just want to fix it now. I have some questions about engine replacement.

1. If I replace the piston, sleeve & connector rod, will it basically be a brand new engine? Would I need to start the break-in process all over again?

2. Are there "higher quality" pistons, sleeves & connector rods?

3. Would it be better to just get a new engine? If so, what is the best engine for XXXNTs?

4. How would I get the existing parts out? With the piston locked at TDC, I can't seem to pull the bottom of the connector rod off of the crankshaft. Do I need to saw it off?

5. Also, I noticed that there isn't any sealant around the engine parts. When and if I do rebuild, should I use sealant to prevent air leaks?

Thanks for your help.

[bigb]

StadiumJ,

Do you have the RTR? If so, I would suggest just getting a slower engine. Those picco's are race engines. From what I gather, inexperienced tuners (like you and I) will probably have trouble tuning it and the fact that it's probably way too fast for us. I'm going to be putting a carb restrictor on my picco. I haven't even finished leaning it out and it is already way to fast for me.

I would suggest an OS CV engine. I've heard they are really durable and easy to tune.

I can't help you with the rebuild questions as I have yet to rebuild an engine. Sorry. :)

B

[lositeamdriver]

ok i personal; hate the picco motors no offense but they dont hold tune worht a crap but the os cvr are good but i could never get one to run as fast as i want at the right temp 210 i like os cv becuse i run it at around 205 to 2120 and i can lift the wheels off the ground and still have alot of power so its up to you i think the cvrs just run hot but the o.s. cv run cool and have enough power

[winning edge designs]

Stadium,it all depends on your throttle finger and track conditions. I use a Cv-R,which makes a ton of power and mine runs at 190 degrees all day long. I'm using a broward precision cyliner head,which lowered it about 25-35 degrees though!....The new OS TR.12 is an awesome motor,with even More power.....I agree the Picco's are tuff to keep in tune,in fact they have updated the carb,but it still isn't an O.S. carb,the industry standard. Lunsford makes an adapter to use O.S. carbs on all the other brands,that will tell you how good they are!

To get the engine apart,the rod can be cut with decent side cutters,then the piston and sleeve will lift out together. A rod is about $25,the piston and sleeve are in the $50-60 area. So you'll be looking at about $85 if there is no other damage,bearings,block,etc..........Half of what a new engine would be,and YES it will need a break in again. The piston and sleeve are the main parts that need the break in procedure........Hope this helps,Jim

[purplerides]

stadium - you could buy another trinity motor like the one you have for around $120.00 or like Jim said rebuild it for around $85.00 so for $35.00 more you'll have a new motor , and you'll have a spare carb. , block , head , crank , and bearings and anything else that still may be good on your original block.

i'd have to agree that the O.S. carb. is the best in the business and holds the tune better with out a doubt , My Picco's always ran great but there performance changes more from day to day due too changes in weather , were the O.S.'s seem not to be affected by change in atmosphere as much.

the standard CV runs for about $90. , and the CV-R run for about $160+/- and both will bolt right in , the O.S.TR will also reqiure a header for about $25.

[Racin Rev]

When the guy at the LHS said "It's broke dude" did he offer any suggestions as to how it was broke, or how it got that way?

Before you spend a ton of money to rebuild/replace try squirting a ton of penetrating oil (available at a hardware store) on the piston top and bottom and then using the hair dryer trick, or if you have one (and are very careful) a propane torch. You don't have a thing to loose.

[Racin Rev]

As i reread your innitial post I think that two things are possible
1. You spun the engine for far too long on the stand with the glow plug out (again, I don't advise using the starter to do this but to hold it upside down and let it drain normally) and you burned up the oil and created enough heat to stick the piston to the sleeve. if this is so it shouldn't be stuck too hard and the previously posted remedy should work.
2. you took the plug out of a dirty head without blowing the crap off of the top first, which may have caused some dirt to wedge between piston and sleeve in which case the aformentioned remedy might work but may be "Broke dude"

[Railman]

I,ve never tried it but it seems like you could insert a matching long screw into the glow plug hole. Maybe you could clean up the end of the screw 1st so as to not damage the piston top. If you heat the head as mentioned above, & then tighten the screw, it should break the piston free. I don't see what you have to lose.
Just don't force the screw too much so as to damage the glow plug threads. This method should be good as long as the crank/bottom end is not the problem. If you remove the but sink, you should be able to tell if the crank is free, & that it's the piston that's stuck.

BTW, did you check the glow plug to see if it lost part of the wire?
I've heard that hydrolocking will sometimes damage the wire, & even break them.
Joe

[StadiumJ]

The engine moved. Instead of travelling through the sleeve, the piston pushed the sleeve out. Whatever I did made it so that the piston is locked into the sleeve. I now need a new piston, sleeve, connector rod, and the "cap thing" that the glow plug screws into (it got dinged up when the sleeve popped it off onto the concrete).

1. Are there higher quality pistons, sleeves, connector rods, and "caps"? I was thinking of teflon coating or something.

2. Can I put this O.S. carb on my engine?

3. Are these parts typically available at the LHS?

Jim, I am in need of a custom painted Triton body for my truck. I have few questions if you don't mind. If I put together a concept or two, could you produce a rough sketch of what the end product would look like? I want this thing to be a showstopper! I've perused your website and liked what I saw. I figure its better for me to pay you for your talents rather than saving a few bucks and learning painting. I may someday, but I just need a body now. I have emailed your site. Hope to hear from you soon!

[Racin Rev]

Call me a cat but I am still curous to know what happened? Get a socket a little smaller around that the piston and gently hammer the piston out of the cylinder (top to bottom) Then, tell us what you find there.

[bigb]

Racin Rev... you're a cat!

Sorry, couldn't help myself...

B

[Racin Rev]

thanks bigb:D

[Racin Rev]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by StadiumJ
[B]The engine moved. Instead of travelling through the sleeve, the piston pushed the sleeve out. Whatever I did made it so that the piston is locked into the sleeve. I now need a new piston, sleeve, connector rod, and the "cap thing" that the glow plug screws into (it got dinged up when the sleeve popped it off onto the concrete).

If the piston pushed the sleeve out you were pushing the wrong way. you should be pushing from the head toward the crankcase. it will never come out the other way.

[diesel757]

stadiumJ
if your getting a new engine consider a rb concepts c-12 or X-12. my X-12 screams and i have found it to be easy to tune and holds its needles very well. if you plan to race this engine rips. if not rb look at O.S. cv-r, this engine also are known to be easy to tune. let us know what was wrong with your sleeve/piston.:D

[StadiumJ]

Racin Rev, I don't know what this means:

"If the piston pushed the sleeve out you were pushing the wrong way. you should be pushing from the head toward the crankcase. it will never come out the other way."

I was trying to turn the flywheel (which up to that point was completely unmovable). Instead of the piston going to the top of the sleeve and coming back down, it simply pushed the sleeve out of the engine block. I'm not sure how else I can say it.


So after removing the piston from the sleeve I am left only with only confusion. It seems that the sleeve is literally too small for the piston to travel through. I don't know what else to say. I don't "see" anything. If I try to push the piston up through the sleeve it gets permanently stuck about 2 mm from the top. It simply will not pass through. I would like to know what the **** is wrong too so I don't break my next engine.

So after owning my truck for a couple of weeks I've managed to run only 6 tanks of gas. First the factory needle positions were WAY wrong (despite the assurance to the opposite by the LHS morons). Then I lost control and hit a curb, blowing up the left-front A-arm, turnbuckle, & the ring at the bottom of the shock. NOW my engine has mysteriously shrunken and must be replaced and no one can tell me why. I have spent far too much money in the past month to get virtually nothing in return. My patience is wearing thin. Please help me by providing answers to my engine questions.

(Sorry for the rant)

PS: Cv, R, TR, TRS, X12, XYZ.........What do all of these letters mean?

[igozoom]

The cv, x 12, e i e i o, etc, are merely brand numbers for engine types. I suspect the some engineer freaks with pocket protectors came up with some of them during early prototype testing, while the marketing freaks said "....give it a number that sounds really fast"!

I do not know what happend to your motor. While I have heard of guys frying motors, it's typically because they ran them lean, or, got crud in them ! (crud is a technical term!)

The "lost control, broke an a arm" thing, well, when you want to drive something that goes really fast, you gots ta hang on !!!!!!!!!

I am only making light of events to try and cheer you up. I would hate to see you give this up because you had some weird things happen to you early on.

So, send me your address via a private email, and I will send you a brand spankin new Picco piston and sleeve kit, no charge. Call it "Paying It Forward".

I have one request. Please go back to your LHS and tell them to kiss your _SS ! Would anyone like to buy a vowell?

[tarvymoto]

Igozoom , not to change the subject (stadium I hope you sort it out) but I herd that there is already a new location for thre replacement track.WOHOO. Aparently it's going to be near FCCJ south campus and it's a large site. My brother was at the track and saw peliminary(sp) layout on one of the club organizers computers. I'll be down to race my NT at the current tack soon . Travis

[winning edge designs]

staium,i'll look for your e mail and we'll set something up.

Also,remember any New engine when being dissasembled,the piston will not push up thru the sleeve. If it does the piston and sleeve are worn out! The sleeve and piston have a tapered fit,since there are no piston rings to take up the clearance,they are machined fairly tight. When new it may be VERY difficult to turn the engine over,especially the first few times.....This is normal!........I hope you didn't take the engine apart and assume it was damaged,while actually damaging the parts?.............If your really in a bind You can mail it to me and i'll take a look at it for you,no charge........seriously...Jim

[igozoom]

Tarveymoto- you heard correctly. We have received a commitment for 10 acres near FCCJ off Huffman Road. We also have a commitment from the City to build a world class facility. We are talking drivers stand in the center and four different tracks. In addition, they are trying go get going and have some of the facility completed prior to closure of current track. LMK when you're coming up. Looking forward to meeting you.

W.E.D Jim, if Stadium J's piston is fried, LMK and I will fed x the piston and sleeve to you.

Has anyone run the new new OS rear exaust in their NT yet? Curious to hear comments. Also, is anyone running a Picco with the OS 10 er rotory carb? Is it a more stable tune? While I love the power output of the Picco, it is a finicky carb !!!!!!

[purplerides]

igozoom i just got the O.S. TR , i raced it at CRCRC winter champs it's real smooth and fast , can't wait until april when i get to play with it more on a week to week basis then i'll know more.

[NItro-Smoke]

No, I have not seen the O.S TR in action yet, but I did see a .15CV-R in a XXX-NT at the track Sat. and it was killer! I could really see the power differance from my .12CV-R. I think when my .12 gives up I will get me a Rear Exhaust O.S!