Team Losi XXXNT forum v1.0

[andy51289]

Post any recommendations on setup or assembly here.

[Zedstr]

i need a starter box and new temp gun. then i'll finally have mine running. any tips differing from the stock setup would be greatly appreciated.

[gubbs3]

I just got done racing mine today. From the stock setup I've changed for a hardpack/highbite track: front shocks:35 oil with 56 piston, one washer under spindel ball stud and one washer under bulkhead ball in #2, rear shocks: 40 oil with 54 piston, outside on top and bottom, hubs forward, #3 inner camber position. picco engine 215* with 3/8 inch cut of header with 1/8 gap and 20 tooth clutch bell. This combo has my truck the fastest out of any truck down the straights with still too much out of the corners. The rest of the setup is out of the manual.

[gubbs3]

I got 2nd place in the A-main and was only 1 second off of my best run.

[kellhound99]

Let me ask you guys a question.... I was reading the setup for one of the losi xxx-nt guys and found myself pondering what I felt was a pretty stupid question. "What is a internal shock limiter?" This guy was running a .120 limiter inside his front shocks. I know when I put the front shocks together they asked that you install a plastic washer that was included in the kit. Might this be considered the limiter?

[gubbs3]

The internal limiter is the washer you put between the shock cartridge and piston. So external limiting is between the shock cartridge and the eyelet. The internal limiting helps to make the truck more stable and easier to drive. It also helps to balance weight transfer so because if you don't use internal limiting in the front shocks they extend too far and you lose a lot of on power steering. External limiting just makes it so the shocks can't be compressed all the way.

[gubbs3]

Also on your setup- go to Trinity Tech talk and go to the "Ask Matt Francis" thread and ask him to post his standard setup. I think his setup is better than the ones posted on the Team Losi webpage. His setup is also listed in RCCA when they tested the XXX-NT a couple months ago.

[SirSpeedy]

Matt's setup is terrific on high-bite, blue groove tracks.

For hardpacked damp clay, and slicker surfaces, I would suggest The Drake's setup....It is on the Losi site...

See ya...

[kellhound99]

Thanks guys.

[SirSpeedy]

To ThE ToP bAbY!!

[xr4]

I am new to the offroad scene , being a onroader racer for number of years I got sick of the lack of tracks in my area. So I decided to make the jump to offroad, I haven't really decided between the xxxnt and the rc10gt, ive noticed there is alot more gt owners. Why is this? What are your opinions on the xxxnt and is it pretty competive out of the box? I've never owned anything from losi so I thought I would ask some owners before I spend the big bucks. Thanks

[Zedstr]

the reason their are a lot lot of gt owners (myself included) is because that truck has been the top of the line racing truck for well over what 6 years now (probly longer). the xxxnt is the newest on the market as far as that goes and newer technology = faster truck. but their are a ton of hopup parts for the gt since it has become a novelty item for many r/cer's. i dont expect to see many frilly parts for the xxxnt since it's meant for racin.

[gubbs3]

I would get the xxxnt. The GT mostly doesn't steer as well as the xxxnt. It has many more tuning options and is not hard to set up. It might be a little harder to drive at first but you will be able to turn faster laps without having to push the truck to its limit. In the tight stuff I will always gain a lead to a GT. You will also never have to worry about bending the chassis either, if you do, you should have taped the crash.

[gubbs3]

Well today I found a different use for the return spring the xxxnt comes with. Most. everyone, else most likely won't need this but: spring that holds the barrel of the carb out so the low end needle is pulled out of the nozzle when the carb is opened was not strong enough on my engine so the low end needle was still in the nozzle at full throttle. So, I moved the return spring to the throttle arm so it pulled on the arm perpendicular to the movement of the arm. I finally figured this out after getting the engine in September and sending it in once to OFNA. Now I have an engine I can use other than my picco! I'll have to get another return spring though so it doesn't go nuts.

[SirSpeedy]

XR4-

The TeamLosi Triple-X NT is the latest in nitro truck racing development. The chassis design is very cutting edge, and you will not be disappointed in it's performance.

Even the Losi team drivers that disliked gas the most, are loving the new truck since it is so fun to drive!!! The Team has been racking up wins for a few months now, since it's release, and no end to it's sucess is forseeable.....

See ya...

[kellhound99]

What a quiet forum topic. Guess us nitro geeks are waiting for better wheather. Just trying to finish breaking in this new RB Concepts rear exhaust. Pretty sure this thing is going to scream.

[SirSpeedy]

Quiet no more!!!

Lets get this baby going!!

Anyone having any setup trouble? How are your trucks working for you?

[gubbs3]

I found out that if you break off a ball stud in the front bulkhead, instead of paying $15 for a new one move the ball on the hub the the inside hole. This works just like using the outside hole in the bulkhead. And I want my street to be swept! There is way wway too much sand for my new speed hawgs! Darn snowy Minnesota!

[kellhound99]

I have enjoyed Adam Drake's setup from the LOSI site. Not bad on a dusty high bite track. One word (Leaf Blower). My fuel tank has leaked around the o-ring ever since I bolted the bad boy to the center chassis brace. Dust plus fuel = very dirty race truck. Guess I will have to invest 11 bucks into a new one. Im a little tight in the longer turns. Might have to loosen the diff a little. Have not figured that one out yet.

[SirSpeedy]

Kellhound-

I am glad to hear The Drake's setup is working for you. Try going to a plumbing supply store and get on O-ring that is the same diameter, but a little bigger around(thicker).

See ya....

[gubbs3]

Kellhound- I run on a dusty/hardpack track and I've found the stock setup best if you go up 5 weight all around. I've tried the Francis and Drake setups but they don't suit my style very well. My tank hasn't leaked very much, more than my NXT's but not too bad. I want to ge a new tank and put the pressure line into the cap and see how that helps foaming.

[xr4]

it's me again....couple of more questions i have heard a few people have a problem with the screws stripping when building the kit even with good allen keys. Has everyone been running into that prob here or just a few? Another question i found a a couple of sites that that sell the xxxnt with a .12sp motor anyone know what motor it comes with or if it is anygood. I emailed a few hobby shops who sold these kits and no reponse...sorry for all the questions I like to hear people's opinions and do some research before I just buy a vehicle...thanks in advance
J

[This message has been edited by xr4 (edited 03-28-2001).]

[gubbs3]

Dynamite SPD engines are just fine. They aren't as powerful as other engines but they aren't that far off either. Most of the time you can get faster lap times with a less powerful engine. So, yes they are worth it. For the screw thing, there is a cutting screw in the kit that has a section of the threads is cut away, like a tap and it has a larger head on it.

[This message has been edited by gubbs3 (edited 03-28-2001).]

[elvis]

melting spurs
breaking ball studs
leaky fuel tanks
stripping screws

and this is from only a few people, sounds like a winner to me.

glad i went with reputation and not the "new thing"

[SirSpeedy]

I have "RACED" about ten gallons through mine. Yes, TEN gallons. I race on a pretty high level, traveling quite a bit.

The Triple X-NT is winning a large percentage of races on a regional/national level. The chassis is simply a step ahead. It drives/ handles noticealby better in even a novice's hands.

I have never blown a spur, although I do change it every couple quarts(like any gas racer should, since there is no gear cover to protect it), Steel ballstuds break. All the AE guys run Ti ballstuds...don't kid yourself. I still have the kit tank in my truck with no problems....I suspect the leaking is coming from somewhere else in most cases. And finally, anyone with a big handled, or poor quality tool, can strip a thread in anything.

Now don't come on here and bash somethig that you know nothing about.

See ya...

[LosiGTX]

I have never boought another RC veichle other than Losi. Currently I have an XXT, XXT CR Graphite Plus, And a Losi GTX. I think they are alot better than those RC10'S, and are just as easy to get parts for. Iam about to get the new Novarossi rear exaust for my GTX, as the DFynamite engine I had been running is now too little power for me. Who else runs 1+ horsepower in their trucks?

[gubbs3]

I run a picco .12 round port and a Force pro .12 and on the track there really isn't much of a difference other than the picco wears out more tires. The picco is very fast, one of the fastest at my track but the next engine I get for racing will probably be a less than 1 horse engine just to save money on tires. The people who run cv's don't have any disadvantage to the 1 horse engines at all really. The only place where these engines make a "real" difference is on road. (which is where my picco will see race time next).
Well said SirSpeedy!

[This message has been edited by gubbs3 (edited 03-29-2001).]

[SirSpeedy]

I run OS Engines. I have a stock Hyper, a CV with an O'donnel head, and an O'donnel 'worked' sleeve, as well as a massaged CV-R.

On really hooked up, blue groove tracks, the worked CV-R is a big advantage. I run the Hyper on slick surfaces and for practice. I have not ran a rear exhaust engine yet, but I do know some guys that run for Paris, and the say the C12 and the Nova motors are lehtal....Horsepower is everything out west...

[This message has been edited by SirSpeedy (edited 04-01-2001).]

[andy51289]

Anyone tried the Francis setup?

[SirSpeedy]

How does changing a cars setup cost money?

Couple bottles of shock oil, and a some different springs? $10-15?

I am not talking about "hop-ups"....I really hate that word...."upgrades" or "options" sounds much better...

[gubbs3]

The Francis setup is really good for high bite dry tracks. I like it better than the Drake setup. I am (was since I'll be racing on road now and I'm trying a setup for that) using a variation of the stock setup. If you look on the first page of this thread I posted it as the ??third?? post of this thread.

[dirtdevil]

I race on red clay (typical for the southeast). The out of the box has worked best for me. Have tried lots of other setups but all that I have accomplised is to spend a lot of money!!! Horizon hobbies is getting rich. The stock set up along with practice beats a mediocre driver with tons of hopups every time.

[SirSpeedy]

Just a little news...

The Drake won the Silver State yesterday.

Yep. Another win for the NT.....I think the Losi guys are getting used to dominating yet another class...haha!

6 NT's in the main, 3 GT's, and 1 Kyosho.

See ya...

[SteveP]

I heard that Kinwald won the Silver State... Is that bad information?

[dirtdevil]

Sir Speedy: I was referring to inexperienced racers thinking they have to have different tires, shock springs, titanium turnbuckles, titanium hinge pins, graphite shock towers, etc, etc. My point is that starting out the Losi XXXNT seems to work pretty well as assembled out of the box. One's first order of business is to get used to this setup before sinking dollars into the above mentioned changes or else you might find that you are buying items that you really didn't need!!

[SirSpeedy]

Steve-

Brian did win.... Adam was second....

I must have misunderstood when I spoke to Jimmy...

[gubbs3]

What's up!?


This Thread!

[xr4]

I just got my kit the other day haven't gotten much together due to work and all, so far no probs besides someone in the assembly line got a brain fade and put two left arm spindels in my kit.opps no biggie though. Can't wait to finish it up and get it going..

[NItro-Smoke]

Hey all, I just got my NT up and running, what an awesome machine it is!! Im running the CV-R and within 2qts of fuel the stock clutch shoe "spring" busted on me??? I now have an MIP 2-n-1 clutch on it with only one run..I hope these springs dont bust to often?? one other ?? how do you adjust to get more brakeing power? also what pipe setup is everyone running as I have the stock one on it now..see ya

[This message has been edited by NItro-Smoke (edited 04-10-2001).]

[SirSpeedy]

Nitro-

I run the O.S. based engines. With the CV-R, as well as with modified engines, I recomend the Losi NXT aluminum header, with the stock Losi pipe. Very nice power band.

As for the spring, I think you may have just had an abnormality. I only run the stock Losi clutch, so I have no comment on the MIP unit.

See ya...

[NItro-Smoke]

SirSpeedy that header you are talking about is it the stock one or some other header they sell? do you have a part# for it? Do you have any ideas for how to increase braking power as I only have a little brake now?

[PlanetRC]

my radio wont open the carb more than 3/4 way. i'm running a magnum sport with an ofna force 12 (rotary carb)

[Rc1oGtMaN]

Yeah, I know I'm a GT owner and all, but I'm curious about the XXX-NT. Can yall tell me about it. Some guys are racing them at my track and consistantly place high. One guy even beat 2 1/8 scale buggies with his. His truck only had an OS CV in it, and was completely stock. The buggies were MBX4-RR's with Nova's in them. This was the first thing that caught my eye. Does this truck have the same ground clearence as other stadium trucks? Do the plastic components really weaken with denatured alcohol? What's it's top speed? Is it as durable as its competitors? Thank you for your response.

[SirSpeedy]

NITRO-Smoke -

The part number for that header is A-9324. It will not clear a pullstarter, so keep that in mind. As far as braking power, provided that you have adjusted your linkage correctly, you may need to invest in a better throttle servo. I run a Aitronics 738.

GT-

Yes the truck has a similar ground clearance as any other truck. It looks low(cool IMO) due to all the components mounted lower on the chassis. Only the battery box and reciever cover are susceptible to alcohol. They are made of a differnt material, so watch out.


Planet-

You need to use a hole on the servo arm for the linkage. Use one that is further from the screw that holds it to the servo. The manual covers this, so re-read it carefully. Top speed? You said you race?

See ya...

[SteveP]

Any of you guys have CVDs installed in your truck? Both my trucks have CVDs and I noticed the right CVD is dangerously close to coming out of the drive cup when the suspension is at full extension. I don't think it's the CVDs however. It might be the tranny isn't centered, the holes in the suspension mount may be slightly off to one side, or the right suspension arm is a hair longer. I don't know what it is for sure, but the left CVD sits in the drive cup about 1/16-inch deeper than the right, and it's the same on both of my trucks.

BTW - I think they changed the material for the receiver box and battery holder. I just picked up a new one at the hobby shop and it says "new" after the part number, indicating there was a revision of some sort. It also appears to be molded of a different material.

[ 04-16-2001: Message edited by: SteveP ]

[Railman]

I thought I had an explanation , but after rereading Steves post, I had the side shift reversed.
:rolleyes:

[ 04-15-2001: Message edited by: Railman ]

[Moto Tool]

Well I'm glad to hear they are no longer using the Timaya Falcon plastic compound anymore. Back in the day I cleaned one of those suckers off with motor spay and it all but dissappeared before my eyes. Maybe you could run two diff shims on the left side and one on the right or maybe none on the right. I know what you mean though, they could be placed a little farther in.

[andy51289]

Steve Pond: All of the XXXNT parts at our hobby store say NEW after them...

[kellhound99]

All this talk about the plastic onboard has got me perplexed. I recently broke the rear shock mount after landing a relatively small jump and was blaming it on that one time I used alcohal to clean the truck. If it was not the alcohal that did the damage what could possibly have broke this rather heafty piece of plastic? Guess I should just spend the 50 bucks and graphitise the truck. Perhaps this will help absorb some of the energy from each impact.

[SteveP]

Just spoke with Losi. Apparently all the parts do have "new' on the package. They did say however, that the plastic originally used for the battery and radio box in the pre-production kit I used for testing was replaced with another material that's almost immune from denatured alcohol. If you recall, I mentioned in my article the platic used to form these parts got a little soft when I cleaned the truck. Hopefully the newer production parts will be more tolerant.

[Moto Tool]

"almost immune" I don't know if I like the sound of that. I guess they almost got it right.

[Moto Tool]

Here's a problem I encountered this weekend with the inside of the tranny case. The raised ridge that holds the bearing for the compound gear on the brake side sheared off and would no longer retain the bearing. I did have the grooves cut in to allow the removal of the compound gear with the pin in place. I can't be certain that I used denatured to clean it or not. Has this happened to anyone else?

[gubbs3]

Nope, never had that happen. SteveP- Do you know if that battery box is acually a new material or just the label? If it is a new material I hope its more durable because I had to remove the top section and drill holes in the bottom to use a zip tie because it broken (well it was broken, but now its completly broken). :rolleyes:

[SteveP]

I can't say for sure, but it looks different than the one I had.

[stormperson]

might want to try the rpm ones. however i do find that the old gray ones were more flexible, and that the new black ones are not as.

i would say rpm ones are the way to go though.

[gubbs3]

I think the same way tie-rod! I never broke one on my NXT and I broke about 3 of the black ones on my xnt. I now have the losi yellow ones and have only broken one (split it) but I got titanium turnbuckles with the new ends. I never thought about that problem before. I just assumed the camber links were too short.

[tie-rod]

speaking of plastics , i've been racing Losi gas trucks since the GTX came out , is it my imagination or does the black plastic rod end break allot easier then there old gray ones , i tried there colored ones they seem to break even easier , the colored ones look like they start splitting when you put them on the turnbuckle i'm thinking cause there made for 4-40 and titanium turnbuckles are larger 3mm , any solutions? anybody tried boiling them does that help , the old grey ones weren't as brittle they didn't break they did bend a little but stayed together and let you finish the race.

[ 04-18-2001: Message edited by: tie-rod ]

[SteveP]

I switched to RPM rod ends for my latest truck, but apparently the stock rod ends can be boiled in hot water when they're new to soften them up a little bit so they don't break as easily.

[gubbs3]

The only good thing about today is that the grass is getting greener. Seasons first race was rained out. :mad: :(

[n2o]

Never have this much trouble with my GT.. ;)

Now now, not trying to start anything.. Just dropped in to say hello and see what the losi guys were up to.

I might buy a losi XXXNT just so I can try one out and see how they 'drive'.. but I love my FTGT!

[kellhound99]

N20 I truly hope those GT guys dont catch you jumping the fence on em'. Hehehe.

[n2o]

kellhound99.. I'm not jumping any fences.. I just like to have the 'best of both worlds'.
but I'm sure I wont REALLY buy one though, because I want a FT B3!

[gubbs3]

The only person I know who races both a XXX-NT and a GT runs almost exactly the same times with both. I asked hinm once to see what difference there really is and he said,"None." I like people who aren't all for one manufacturer and who can go out and buy a car that they haven't tried. It's kind of like the reason people still buy Picco engines even though all they hear about them is bad stuff. I love mine but I would go out and buy any other engine to see what it was like after this one.

[n2o]

right on grubbs.. no reason to be biast(sp?)

Maybe one day I'll build my own truck.. It would have the best from my GT and the best from the XXXNT.. now THAT would be cool!

[gubbs3]

Thanks, but you had two spelling mistakes:
biast - biased
grubbs - (ehemm) gubbs

[n2o]

hmm.. gubbs3.. and you had to point that out because?? I know a guy names grubbs and I guess I just got mixed up.. And on biased, I said (sp?)

punk.. ;)

[gubbs3]

Well...because... :D

[nitroman1]

O.K, I have just a few questions for you guys. So far, I have had a little more trouble setting up my suspension and getting that all too familiar "sweet spot". I need to get a little more stability coming off of jumps and can't quite find the right settings. So far, mostly "kinwald and drake" setups. Would it help to get the 54 and 56 pistons or stay with the stock ones. And how about the internal limiters? Also, does anyone have a pic they could submit that shows certain personal settings of % of A/S. Thanks in advance! :D

[PlanetRC]

guys, i still cant get my carb to open all the way. ive looked in the manual and i still cant get it to work. i dont have epa on my radio. lemme know.

[gubbs3]

Nitroman- Yes the 56 and 54 pistons will help your truck. The 56 piston has smaller holes than the 55's in the front shocks and the 54 pistons are larger than the 55's and the 56's in the rear shocks. When I'm going for more stability I usually try going to a higher oil weight or smaller piston holes in the front shocks.
PlanetRC- Is it that the carb alone won't open all the way, does the linkage bind, or doesn't the servo travel far enough?

[PlanetRC]

gubbs, the servo wont travel far enough. the carb open fine by hand

[SteveP]

In which hole (counting outward from the center of the servo horn) is the throttle linkage installed? It should be in the third hole if my memory serves me. You just need to try different holes for the linkage on the carb and on the servo horn. If you have the linkage connected to the servo horn in the third hole already, then you might want to try the fourth. If that doesn't work, then move the linkage down to the bottom hole on the carburetor throttle arm. If you have to do this to get the carb to open all the way, I think you may have a problem with the radio or the servo. The servo could be damaged and is not capable of full travel. Try another servo to see if the result is the same.

This brings me to the radio. If you're using a radio that doesn't even have end-point adjustment, you may want to consider saving for a better radio. EPA is very important on a gas car, because you don't have an electronic speed control that has it's own built-in adjustments. The throttle servo needs to be set to open the carb all the way, and no more. EPA will also give you more finite adjustment of the brakes. It's just better all the way around.
The least expensive radio you should consider should be an AM system with all the adjustments (servo reversing, end-point adjustment, etc.). My preference would be for an inexpensive FM system. The signal is a little more reliable and the radios tend to have the type of features that are helpful in nitro vehicles.

I have personal experience with Futaba, Airtronics, and KO radios at the lower end of the price spectrum and have found they work well.

[ 04-27-2001: Message edited by: SteveP ]

[gubbs3]

What Steve said.

[nitroman1]

Is anyone haveing trouble getting good brake power with the truck so far? I believe my settings are good and I also have a good radio w/ end point adj. My truck seams a little brake underpowered. :confused:

[n2o]

Sup guys?? How does eveRyone like their truCks? I have had about 10 Gas Trucks, but no losi's... ;) ;) ;) ;)

I'm sure the losi is a Good Truck, but since it's so new, it's Going To take time time to GeT it just right.. :rolleyes:

-n2o

[ 05-01-2001: Message edited by: n2o ]

[ 05-01-2001: Message edited by: n2o ]

[Moto Tool]

Nitroman, we just installed some of Trinity's new aluminum brake clips and they give a much more positive engagement. Haven't had much track time with it yet but I'll let you know.

[LosiXXXNT'er]

Hey guys,
I am getting ready to buy my XNT after about a year off from racing. I commited the ultimite sin, i bought a FTGT, god i hated it!, ive been racing losi since i was about 10 (20 now). I had a CV-R in my..."other" truck before i sold it all and took a break. My question is, will the O.S. CVR hang with the new novas? Ive heard that the novas are over rated in terms of the stated horsepower, i have always been an O.S. racer. Seems to me that when something comes outt hat says it has more horsepwer, people are going to jump all over it, seeming to not know that it takes good driver to be able to handle the horsepower.
Sorry if my post reads jumbled, but i just woke up. :rolleyes: :o

[gubbs3]

The truth is that the old O.S. cz-z can still hang with the best. The mega horsepower isn't great unless you can put the power to the ground like in on road. I've gotten spanked by o.s. cv's and I run a picco and I'm a pretty good driver. Speed wise, there really isn't much difference but acceleration is much better with high hp engines but you are definately not out of the ranking if you buy a lesser engine.

[SirSpeedy]

Nitroman-

You need a better throttle brake servo. With at least 80oz of torque.

Losi NT'er-

Most of the Losi Team Drivers that do not run for Trinity, run OS power.

[LosiXXXNT'er]

Hey guys
Just currious as to what your using electronics wise, are you using a switch or the "plug-n-go" setup. I personaly do not want to run a switch, but i cant remember how to set up the pack with a deans plug. Is it as simple and splicing into the receiver pack wire, and soldering on heavier gague wire with a deans plug?? How about the extention from the receiver to the other half of the deans plug??
:confused: :confused:

[SteveP]

I used to run without a switch, but now I have one installed. It's just easier, and the plugs don't get worn out from constant plugging and unplugging. Also, the proper switch allows charging of the receiver pack from a separate plug in the switch harness.

[gubbs3]

I run a switch. If you are running a GT it really won't matter because the receiver is out in the open but if you have a xxxnt you would have to have a large hole in the cover or not use the cover at all.

[NitroRacer10]

Well first let me say hello to the xxxnt forum!!! I am new to this truck and offroad racing so I may need a little help but hopefully not too much. I have been racing nitro touring cars for about 4 months and I want to give my hand a go at offroad. So I sold my Serpent Impulse and here I go. Really the main reason I swithed was lack of support in local area for nitro touring plus there ar 5 offroad tracks within 2 hrs of my home in all directions. My kit was supposed to be here today but UPS looks like they won't have it hear until Monday :( Anything I should KNOW right off the bat? I got the Trinity/Picco with Picco exxhaust. Also I ordered alum. rear pivot blocks, the brake adapter thing and getting ready to order Ti turnbuckle/hingepin kit form Tower. I spent alot of time in the Serpent forum oh tne HPI website so I will be around alot and look forward to meeeting new people and helping out eventually! Thanks

[primuswoostinkinhoo]

i just got back from the hobby store with a xxxnt under my arm woooohooooo

[gubbs3]

Nitroracer- I know how it feels to miss a shipment. When I was suposed to get my xxxnt last September I was gone racing (go figure) when it came. That was on a Saturday so we couldn't go to the post office until Monday because it was closed by the time we got home. :( Hope you like the Picco .12, I have one and its great.

[NitroRacer10]

Thanks Gubbs....I see you have a few posts in here so you must know little LOL. I am pretty good with touring cars so this ought to be interesting. I hear offroad is WAY more forgiving. I just need to learn about setting the truck up. I know alot about on road but do not know if same theories apply to off. Also I need to get some type of setup equp. I used the Hudy stuff with my Serpent....any suggestions....I know most just use the RPM camber gauge ( i think) what does anyone kow about that new racetech setup??? Thanks

[LosiXXXNT'er]

Nitro Racer,
When racing offraod, the only setup tool thati think is REALLy important is a camber gague. Other than that a lot is done by eye, like ride height etc. I dont know about off road being more forgiving, i raced onroad for a little bit and i thought IT was more forgiving than offraod, in offroad if you hit a jump the wrong way, hold onto your bulkheads...lol. I guess its just what your more comfortable, and used to doing. The one thing i hated about offroad nitro is its so **** messy if you get the first heat on a wet track, but after about 10 years of racing, ive grown fond of it..LOL :D :D :D :D
Good Luck

[gubbs3]

What I think is the most forgiving is racing offroad trucks onroad! Its wayyyy fun. Plus when I race mine onroad the other racers are mostly, well...not as good. And in offroad, there are very, very few people who can go a whole race without crashing so if you crash a couple times you are definatly not out of contention for the win. I think the setup issues should be mostly the same in offroad as on. Look into Matt Francis's setup for hardpack, dry tracks and Adam Drake's for wet tracks.

[LosiXXXNT'er]

Hey guys
Can the MUP CVD's made for the NXT be used on the XXXNT?

[LosiXXXNT'er]

oops, supposed to be MIP, duuh! :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

[Railman]

Next time just click on the pencil at the top of the post to edit.

[XtremLosi]

I'm finally returning to the great sport of R/C car racing after a year and a half break. I used to run the Losi Street Weapon but decided to try my hand with the off road nitro. I've decided on the Losi XXXNT and have found one completely built, w/ all the electronics, and its never even been started. Its absolutely perfect. I can get it for $500. Is this a good deal? I'm thinking it is but i'm just looking for some feed back. Thanks.

[NitroRacer10]

what motor is in it? Does it come with a rado and if so which one? It has never been ran right?

[NitroRacer10]

Can someone please tell me what weight shock oil comes with the kit? Also how about springs and pistons? Also what about grease for the dif? I need to know b/c my truck will be here tomorrow and i am going to LHS now. Thanks!

[XtremLosi]

It has NEVER been run... it comes with a JR XR3 radio and the os .12 cv motor... the red and gray one. Any help would be appreciated!!! thanks

[NitroRacer10]

I would say for $500 bucks and it has 2 servos (standard I am assuming) That it sounds about right price wise. I mean the kit you can get 249.00 the motor I am not too sure but is maybe 100 bucks now and the radio new costs 150.00 So i guess it is how you look at it. You will stil need a receiver pack and better steering servo. So actually I would say almost just buy it yourself....assemble the kit yourself and get a motor and radio you want with good servos. I mean if you have $500 to spend trhen why not buy it all new and not tale that chance on someone elses stuff. Hope I was of some help!!!

[NitroRacer10]

OK.....I will have my truck first thing in the A.M. tomorrow. Are there any assembly tips or things to watch for? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. I have assembled many kits so I am not too woried...just never a Losi or a xxxnt. I read something about set screws on a brake not to tighten them or something...So a few tips would be nice

[gubbs3]

For Losi vehicles its a very good idea to get a high quality 1/16 inch allen driver because the composite material they use is so hard and regualr l-keys strip very easily. It would also be a good idea to get good 5/64 and 3/32 wrenches for the engine mounts and cap head screws. It comes with 30 weight oil with 55 pistons in front and 56 in the rear. It has white thrust bearing grease and clear diff grease. Use the white on the thrust bearing (duh) and also to lube the holes for screws to make them go in easier.

[NitroRacer10]

Thanks Gubbs...I have high quality (integy) drivers and I may use Associated stealth lube for the dif and black Assoc grease for the bearings or I may use kit stuff. Dunno yet. Also what about the brake thing I read about? Thanls again

[nitroman1]

Hey thanks Sir Speedy and MotoTool for the advice. However, I am running digital's on both sides of the truck so I think the Trinity clips will cure the prob. Moto Tool, what is the stock # for the Trinity aluminum brake clips? :D

[ 05-07-2001: Message edited by: nitroman1 ]

[gubbs3]

Nitroracer- AE lube would be fine for any diff. Also I just remembered, don't run the slipper at the "factory" setting of 3 turns out. I run mine with 2 threads sticking out past the lock nut. Its probably 4 turns out or so and it still pulls wheelies so its plenty tight.

[rcboy618]

hey guys! well i bought my xnt on sat and finished it on sunday. i enjoyed building it so much that i didn't want to stop to go to sleep! i enjoyed building this more than the gt. the shocks were the easies(to me) to fill with oil. i'll post pics of it after i paint the body. if you have any advice about the car, please tell me thanks.

rcboy

[NitroRacer10]

Well finished my kit late lastnight/this morning. Going to break that sweet picco motor in here in a bit. Still need to paint my body but thats not important right now. All I can say so far is that I am very impressed with my first Losi kit!!! This truck is literally leaps and boungs above my 2 previous GT's. I do have one question though for anyone running the aluminum rear pivot block......what holds the hinge pins in???? IS it just the batter box???? I must have checked myself b4 moving on a thousand times and could not come up with anything. ...Oh well! Thanks!

[gubbs3]

Well, for the first time in all my life I don't have a solution! :( I think the play is just a combined sum of all the play in the servo geartrain and all six ballcups in the steering bellcrank.

[NitroRacer10]

So you are saying it is normal???? Well that is the LEAST of my concerns now....See if you get this one.....I have the PIcco motor right...well I put one spacer, the collet, fly wheel, the i put some threadlock (blue) on the shaft....screw the vlutch nut on whick I must say is so far the wierdest setup I have seen on a nitro engine yet, anyhow tightend it as tight as I could (atleast I thought) To make it a short story after I idled my first tank I began on my 2nd.. well running rich as **** and when I gave throttle the notro just sorta soun up a little then stalled...so when I went to start again my box just spun the flywheel..Problem was clutch nut backed out just about a mm. So I took motor out tightend a little and proceeded to break in again...Boom same thing happened...WHY!!!!!!!! Now I can't even get the clutch nut off the shaft (it is half way backed out now) and is stuck. I called Losi to ask then since the clutch assembly is there product but I am waiting on them to call back (almost 4 hrs ) So now I am stuck...what do I do??? I feel like an idiot and I am not new to nitro but that setup seems screwy to me> PLEASE!!!!! HELP!!!!!!

[SirSpeedy]

You may need to cut a little bit off of the end of the crankshaft. Engines seem to vary in length. I run OS Engines, so I can't help you there.

You may need to invest in a piston locking tool to get that nut back off now.

The clutch nut already has a thread locking compound inside of it from the factory. That is why it is hard to get on for the first time.

[NitroRacer10]

One more question.....there feels like ther is alot of play in the front end.....,aybe I have the servo saver adjusted wrong or it could possibly just be normal...its only about an 1/8 or so play . Any help is appreciated and gubbs i am sure you have an answer and a solution if there is one.

[Railman]

To remove the nut just bring the piston up by turning it counterclockwise, till it starts making compresion. Then take out the glow plug & pour some after run oil (about a teaspoon) through the glow plug hole. Reinsert the glow plug. Now remove the nut. Don't forget to heat up the nut to release the locktite. This should work for you.
Make shure to remove the oil when done. Good luck.

[gubbs3]

Railman- What you said brought back memories that made me ****** ! OK, I sent the exact same pit tip you just stated to RCCA and I was told it would be in the June issue. I was very happy because I was very sure I would receive the top tip award. Well this guy from New Zealand (no offense) had the tip where he used thread! I was suposed to have my tip in that issue which, as I now see, would have gotten top tip! :mad:
Nitroman- To tighten the flywheel, I use a pair of channel lock pliers, properly called slip joint, to hold to the flywheel while I crank down on it. Sometimes I can feel my MIP wrench flexing a little so I know its REALLY tight and I have no problems with the nut backing off the crank.

[SirSpeedy]

Hey gubbs-

Funny how you bring up brand names like that....I just did a marketing reaserch paper last semester on that....lol...

Acutally, Channel Locks as we all call them are tongue and groove pliers. Slip joint pliers have the figure 8 shaped hole in the middle, and only have two positions. What most people just call regular pliers.

Jet-Ski, Kleenex, Weed-Eater, RollerBlades, and Gatorade are some of the most used brand names that most people have no idea what the real name for the object is...but tool names a prabably the worst.....Allen Wrench, Vice Grips, Channel Locks, Skil Saw, Scroll Saw, I could go on.....

[gubbs3]

Yeah, when I had small gas engines in the fall the teacher went off on all the "real" names of tools that we call by their brand names. The biggest difference I think is long nose pliers and needle nose. What most ppl think of needle nose is acually long nos...and so on and so on.

[Railman]

Sad story Gubbs. I think it's a cold calculated thing they did. They'll probably put you up against a REALLY good idea! I had forgotten where I read that tip! Did you post that somewhere?
Sir, on the other thing..Sawzall, Dremel, or how about my favoite...Heeny Honkers. Ever heard of that one?
:D

[ 05-13-2001: Message edited by: Railman ]

[MikeK]

Hi I was just wondering what Rx packs everybody is using in there xxxnt? I like the idea of the battery box, but I can not believe that the box was designed for 4 cells, so my brand new 5 cell hump pack from last year does not fit and Trinty is the only one I know that makes a pack to fit at $39 is there a cheaper alternative?

[NitroRacer10]

Tower Has the Trinity pack for 24.94 I believe it was out of stock last week but due in soon. I broke down and paid 31 for mine but it is well worth it!!

[kellhound99]

A question if I may? I am having a hard time keeping the xxxnt from "nosing" over after a jump. Its as if the truck is far too nose heavy. I have tried everything that I could possibly think of from loosening and tightening both the front and rear shocks with different combinations to adding and removing power at the top of the jump. Im running orange springs in the rear with 40wt. oil, 30wt. up front with red springs and a 56 piston. I mean she starts barreling over right after the jump. Have any of you guys tried moving the servo back yet?

[gubbs3]

Go to 54 pistons in the rear with pink springs and orange springs in front. Those are the shock settings for Matt Francis's setup. My truck is very easy to control in the air but you might have to stay on the gas a little in the air to keep the font end up.
Railman- I think I posted that a couple days ago on another thread but I sent it in to RCCA somewhere around December. I was notified in March that it would be in the June issue.
MikeK- I have a 5 cell 1050 NiMH hump pack in my truck and it fits just fine. Unless its an oversized pack it should fit.

[LosiXXXNT'er]

Kellhound, it is most likely something that is extremely easy to fix, the wing. Make sure your wing is at a good enough angle. Ever try jumping a truck without a wing? :eek: :mad:

[tie-rod]

kellhound - it looks like your using "drakes" set-up which i run close to with some slight adj. i find it works pretty good on a slick track which i run on , Matts set-up seems to work better for me on high bite tracks but is a handful for me when it gets slick , all that being said (wow to much caffeine) my truck jumps pretty flat with a slight nose landing perfect for backsiding them jumps , and my local track has some big jumps , check your truck for something binding , also if this is at a track are others having similiar problems? or is it in your backyard? the reason i'm asking is it could be the jump itself , i've been to tracks that built most of there jumps like that, (kickers) nobody gets overthem.

[MikeK]

gubbs3 I was using NiCads 1100mah 3 on the bottom 2 on top. The Nimh must be smaller is your hump pack 3 on the bottom and 2 on top?

[Railman]

Mikek, I bet your using AA batts aren't you? All the pre-made packs are made out of AAE batts. AAE's are turned the opposite way & require a different box shape than a AA hump pack. I do know of a guy that ran 5 aa's in his XXXNT though, but don't know the details.
Just my $.02

[gubbs3]

Yup it might just be too big. The 5 cell pack I have is much smaller than even the 4 AA holder that comes with radios. I've seem a few packs that are bigger than normal on GT's but they don't really have any restrictions.

[nitroman1]

O.K, I was out on Saturday and my compound gear shreaded. :eek: I thought the "monster diff" was supposed to be great. :confused: So, anyone have or had the same problem?
P.S. GUBBS, Got any suggestions?

[gubbs3]

I blew mine up the first time I raced with it. Just get the new gear. It's a natural plastic color, not black. I replaced the stock gear in September with the improved gear and its still holding up fine.

[nitroman1]

thanx gubbs, already on the way :D

[LosiXXXNT'er]

Hey guys
I just got my XNT put to gether, after getting great deals from my work (Hobby People). Anyways, ive got an O.S. CV-R with a slide carb installed with a 357 servo (yes i know it may be over kill). Im having problems with the throttle return spring. When i had my rotary carb, it was no problem, but now the throttle linkage is hitting the spring when throttle is applied. I was thinking about mounting the spring on the engine mount, and then to the throttle arm. How do you guys run your linkages for slide carbs, any suguestions on how i sould mount it?
Thanks guys

[gubbs3]

Try going to the Team Losi web site and look up the xxxnt. When it was new, they had some pictures of how both carbs work. Get to the pic of where they show the slide carb and set up your linkage the same.

[gubbs3]

I think it's been long enough.

GET UP THERE!

[NItro-Smoke]

Tell me about it those GT boys are some serious typers!! We are serious too, but gee wiz thats a lot of post....by the way does everybody use a standard servo for the throttle??? Does a high speed/torque really help you out in the dirt...

[NItro-Smoke]

Another question I have the trinity nitro metal hydride pack for my truck..now how much voltage should I pump into this thing before unpluging my charger?? I have a teken 112 peak charger but from what I read these batts will not peak they will just overcharge and get hot, so what is the cut-off voltage for these?? so far I have disconnected them at around 6.8V---does anyone go any higher?

[NItro-Smoke]

I tell you what Im full of ??? tonight!! Where can I find some of those nice auluminum servo horns, mainly one for the throttle/brake combo?? I think im done for now--got to go watch my movie--submerged!

[Railman]

Nitro Smoke, Just thought i'd type a little somewhere else! We use a Tekin 112c to charge the trinity NMH & dynamite NMH. The only problem we have is the low rate of charge...1/2 amp. The peak function works fine for us. Do you have the right software on your charger, H27 or higher? What mode did you use? Ours peak out at over 7 volts without getting hot...just barely warm.
Try wwww.tekin.com for info on charging NMH batts.
I know a lot of fast guys that use the std type servos on their GT's...couldn't say on the XXXNT though, other than Jesse Roebbers who won & tq'd, at the Columbus big race this past winter. He beat Matt Francis & Drake among many others. He uses a JR4735 for the throttle on his XXXNT.

[NItro-Smoke]

Hey Railman< I have the 112A--DC charger. I charge it on .5A and I think I have it on the PF2 mode, I dont use the cold start but either the P2 or P start..what mode combo do you use...Looks like I can charge it a little more if you say it peaks over 7V.. :D Well, I went to tekins site and I read about the charge modes and all, but I went out to see my software version and it comes up E-26 so I guess I dont have the latest and greatest but I guess it will be ok to charge those batts..!!!

[ 05-20-2001: Message edited by: NItro-Smoke ]

[ 05-20-2001: Message edited by: NItro-Smoke ]

[tie-rod]

on the trinity web site the question about charging the nimh reciever packs , trinity said to charge at .5amps. or less and let peak and you shouldn't have any problems , i race with guys that work at trinity and they say the same thing and suggested that it would be even better at .4 amps. that's what i charge mine at , it does take a while though , for a normal race weekend i charge them at home and don't charge them at the track at all for three 5 min. quals, and 15 min. main , i've even ran quals and 30 min. main without charging with no problem.

[gubbs3]

I use a standard throttle servo on my truck and haven't found a Hitec 525 to make that much difference in performance. I use a Picco engine so I don't ever really need to get up to full throttle fast to get over jumps but if you had a low end engine a quick servo would help get the engine up to full power faster than a standard servo could.

[NitroRacer10]

Well in my first offroad race placed 2nd in A main. I am very happy with the new truck....loads better than my old GT's
I use a 605BB for throttle and it is too fast I think. I mean I just pull the throttle and it is too much. I really have to finese it like I did in onroad racing. So get what you need. If you have a high end radio you can turn the speed down as I am about to.

[gubbs3]

What would be nice is to have a really fast throttle servo but only slow down the opening part of the travel. So then you would have a less twitchy throttle but you would still be able to get on the brakes very quickly.

[Railman]

Hey Gubbs, That's what radios are for. My Mars will do that in 3 variable width zones. It will do this independent of the return speed, if you want. Also does negative or positive curve, throttle punch, & a whole lot more. What radio do you use?

[NItro-Smoke]

Ok, Tie-rod Im charging them up at .4 to see what happens..thanks for the info

[gubbs3]

I have an old KO EX-5. Its the very old anologe version. It has dual rate, servo reverse, and endpoints for both channels.

[gubbs3]

Well guys...I'm sellin' my stuff. :eek: All of it. I'm going to get into planes. I'll still browse the board to see if I can offer any tips to people. Cya. :(

[NitroRacer10]

Gubbs!!!!!! Man are you selling on ebay or what? If you have a list post it I might be interested in some xxxnt stuff well maybe the whole truck - motor!!!!

[tie-rod]

Gubbs! your selling out , going to planes? did you get hit in the head or something...LOL

come back to the light Gubbs, the light is good , come back towards the light...LOL

good luck with the planes gubbs , remember take offs are optional , landings are mandantory , what goes up will come down.

[gubbs3]

I'm glad that you care guys! Nitroracer10- send me an e-mail if you would like the links to my auctions.

[andy51289]

LosiXXXNT'er: The same thing happened to me!!! What was wrong was that your diff was too loose and your slipper was too tight for a loose diff. Put it together and...MELTED DIFF! :(

[LosiXXXNT'er]

You got it! The diff isnt going anywhere now. My buddy used plumbers tape around the diff screw to get it to hold better, and the diff was built almost like a ASC. Diff. I had built it according to the manual, with 6 washers one way, and 6 the other. When i tore it down, it was built back up using a way i have never heard of... <><><><><>, give it a little compression somewhat like a spring. It is used by MANY people at the track, and they all love it. I love the way this truck handles!!!
BTW i have an OS CVR slide carb, and after the main it was temped at 219F :D :D :D :D

[andy51289]

What you could to is take out all of the diff cones and replace them with an Associated diff spring. Don't ask me how to do this because I got it off another site! :D

[LosiXXXNT'er]

Exactly!!, thats what my "diff building buddy" said to do. He runs the GT, and said he's built diffs for Losi guys and they all love them with the dif spring in them!. Good call
:D :D

[SirSpeedy]

The diff should be built with all the washer pointing toward the diff nut carrier.

[outdrive]>>>>>>>>>>>>[diff nut carrier]

The Team runs it that way. Works great.

[LosiXXXNT'er]

Hey guys,
I just wanted to post my restults from my first outing with my brand new XXXNT. Day started off good with my 2 tanks of practice, but then came the first round. About 2 laps into the race, i felt what i thought was my slipper slipping too much, but then on the back straight.. "eeeeEEEEEE". So i pull my diff apart and guess what?? You got it, my "monster" diff gear is fried. So i had a buddy re-build it for me cuz he had a "special way" (it REALLY was!), so i missed my 2nd round, and qualified dead last (10th). Time for the main, i go out, pass everyone in the 7 min. main, and win with the **** thing!!. I went from hating the truck with a passion, to "DAAAAMN this thing is dialed!!" LOL.. i love this truck, although im going to try and find a robinson dif gear... :mad: :mad: :mad:

[andy51289]

So does anybody know how to attatch a spring to the Losi diff?

[Ricerocket]

Hi guys, I've started back into R/C after about a 4-5 year hiatus. Have decided to go with what I feel is the #1 truck out there: the XXX-NT. The problem I am having concerns the rear exhaust .12 Trinity/Picco that I have installed. The manifold for the rear exhaust comes down almost level with the chassis. Maybe this won't be that big of a problem, but it seems to me that the pipe could get knocked around quite easily after landing a big jump (i.e. chassis bottoms out). Has anyone used rear exhaust engines in their XXX-NT, and if so, what did you do about it? The manifold I am using is a Picco part # 7126... Thanks in advance, Ricerocket :D

[tie-rod]

rice that's the main problem with the rear exhaust motors , the do that in most trucks i've seen some guys bend header up so it's farther from the ground be careful not to kink it , from what i hear trinity is supposed to come out with one that won't do that but won't be avail. for atleast a couple of months , the ones that all manufactures are selling for there rear exhaust motors are actually for touring cars , nobody makes one designed for trucks yet , until trinity comes out with there's.

[sprinter59]

Hi Guys

I`ve sold my GT and bought a XXXNT...now what springs are you guys recommending for a small tight, dry track ? I put a CV-R with an Odonnel pipe on it...thanks for you help

Mike

[Ricerocket]

Thanks tie-rod, that's what I was afraid of... :( Guess I'll have to break out the OS CV motor I originally got for the truck until Trinity comes out with their pipe. Thanks again tie :D

[Ricerocket]

Tie Rod (or others), going back to the Picco rear exhaust question I posted last night, I was thinking I might get the Picco side exhaust pipe that comes straight out and does a 180 degree turn, and cutting it so that it only makes a 90 degree turn. Think this might work? :D

[andy51289]

Don't Get Picco!!!! Picco's carbs are made of plastic and the mixture screws will strip in the plastic. I know a person who got a PICCO because he saw that Kinwald, Drake, Francis, etc etc were using them, and he has had 6 carburators in the past 3 months! Do yourself a favor and get an RB X12!

[Turboduck01]

Are the carbs really that crappy?

[andy51289]

YES

[LosiXXXNT'er]

For my home track i run Red up front, Orange out back. Take a look at what the guys at your track are using, and go from there. I am running an OS CVR Slide carb, Associated manifold, and Associated pipe, awesome power.
The key word in your post is DRY, i run on somewhat of a slightly wet track, but ask around your track, usually people are good about telling you setups.

[NitroRacer10]

Orange in rear , red up front like said before! also you may want a set of pinks too. Just experiment and see what suits you. I suggest getting the 1 degree rear hubs also. That will give you the 3 deg toe in rear! Part number is a-9807. Also tires play a big deal for your dry track. what have you been running? Goodluck and Good choice. I too had GTS and I am VERY happy with my first Losi truck!!!

[tie-rod]

andy - i have two picco side round ports , and now a rear exhaust , plus i know of atleast 10 guys , and some of them have more the 1 picco , and not one problem with the carbs. period ,they all run great , they are very very fast with alot of bottom end and smooth , i've striped the threads out an old O.S. carb. on the idle screw , does that mean that O.S. carbs. are bad NO of course not i've had more O.S.'s that i didn't have a problem , i know what contributed to my O.S. screw stripping out , 1.) i was a beginner engine tuner , though my engines always ran pretty good , i'd fiddle with it a little here and there , basically plum wore it out , plus when i would adjust idle many times the radio gear was on as i tried to turn screw in i was putting a lot of pressure on them threads i basically was pushing the servo with the screw , you should never do this no matter what material your carb. is made of period. just open the throttle a little to take pressure off then screw turn your screw in or out , you'll find it turn easier and no damage is done , i'm sorry to hear your friend had a problem with his but that don't mean that the product is bad , sure you'll find those that for no fault of the engine tuner have problems ALL manufactures do. But since your friend went through six of them in 3 months i'd guess that the material may not be problem , or he has the most absolute worst luck and got every defective carb. picco shipped.

[SirSpeedy]

Good answer.

[Turboduck01]

yah, i was thinkin of getting a picco for my GT, i raced against kinwald and the losi guys, **** , those things fly with piccos : ) i had my lowly Os CV, luckily some of them had bad luck and i finished 5th in the A main : )

[LosiXXXNT'er]

I hope you guys dont think that they (Kinwald, Drake etc) are using stock Pico motors. If you think that the motors they run are the same as the motors YOU can go buy, guess again. BTW, the picos DO have a carb problem, but they arent AS BAD as people make them out to be.

[Turboduck01]

how mcuh different can they be?

[SirSpeedy]

VERY Different. Not even close.

[LosiXXXNT'er]

Thank you SirSpeedy, i thought i was going to get the "you dont know what your talking about" thing. Im not sure who they send their motors to, but i know that Ron Paris is THE man when it comes to engine work. The carbs they run on their Piccos are also MUCH differant than the stock ones. ;)

[SirSpeedy]

Eduardo Picco.

[NItro-Smoke]

WOW!! I changed out my throttle servo with a Airtronics 737 and what a differance in response over the stock JR servo...much smoother and faster---another thing I noticed is with the return spring in the stock location it would not bring back the JR servo to close throttle if I were to lose radio power but with the Air 737 the spring brings it back to close position--must be the dual ball bearings and the smoothness of it..-Funny thing is I had this servo in my old RC10T truck just lying on the shelf that I havent touched in years and I just picked it up to show a friend and Bamm there was the servo--Im happy :p :D :D

[andy51289]

Nitro-Smoke: Instead of having the return spring mount on the reciever box, move is to one of the engine mount screws.

[NItro-Smoke]

come on guys, there has to be something to talk about your ride.... I posted this on the nitro forum so ill ask here as well...what would be a good tuned pipe to take the place of the stock Losi Pipe?? Im running a CV-R!! Maybe a tad more top end is what Im looking for??

[SteveP]

Try an MIP header (shortened about 1/4-inch) combined with a Picco Team pipe.

[Ricerocket]

To all who are having the problem getting a rear exhaust manifold to fit well on their stadium truck (specifically the XXXNT)... I took my Picco manifold (Part # 7126), heated it up a little, and straightened it out a little. I had to cut about 1 1/4 inches off of it to make it fit. I had to drill new holes in it for the spring to hold it in place, but the fit is fantastic! Fits in the same area as the stock side exhaust standard manifold that comes in the kit. Performance wise, it absolutely rips!!! I'm running the new .12 Trinity Picco rear exhaust engine and couldn't be more pleased with it! Say what you will (and I know someone will) about the carbs, but I have had no problems out of mine. Best advice I have gotten at LHS as well as here is to take the tension off of the idle screw before making adjustments. :D

[SteveP]

BTW - Trinity is making special headers for both the Picco and Novarossi engines that are made to fit a truck. I don't have a part no. yet, but they said they are working on them.

[SirSpeedy]

Best thing to do with a CV-R is gear it up a tooth or two on the clutch bell.

[NItro-Smoke]

SirSpeedy who makes the clutch bells for the truck?? I really have not seen any or heard of any other than the stock one!!

[NItro-Smoke]

never mind I should have looked before asking the question but I found all I need at horizon, I will get my hobby shop to order stuff tomorow---looks like Ill go with 20T bell since the stock is 18T!!

[SirSpeedy]

I was thinking that stock was a 17....hmmm.

I run a 19 though. seems to work out pretty well.

[NItro-Smoke]

well, I thought it was a 15T, But I went out and looked in the manual and then counted the teeth, indeed it is an 18T bell!! Do you think going to a 20 is to much or should I go to the 19T??

[NitroRacer10]

HELP!!! Anyone having problem with there bearings??? I have blown 4!!!!! bearings.....3/8x 3/16 I believe the ones in rear hubs!!! I can't believe this...I am callin Losi tomorrow to see what the deal is but I have only raced twice and this is BULL!!!!!

[NItro-Smoke]

No, I have not blown any bearings(knock on wood) and I have about a gallon and a half through mine!! I heard the clutch bell bearings go out first but so far so good---I have some on standby just in case!!

[NitroRacer10]

**** maybe I got a bad batch. this truck is only a month old with maybe 1/2 gal. thru it. I am talking 4 bearings...whats up?

[gubbs3]

I did the same thing when I ran my Picco. Even for low speed tracks, the higher gear ratio keeps the engine in its powerband longer.
About the carbs...I don't have any problem with them at all!

[NItro-Smoke]

Gubbs, are you talking about the clutch bell?? what bell did you run 18/19/20 ???? witht your Picco-XXX-NT

[NitroRacer10]

NO one else having problems with bearings??? I am fed up........ ordering boca bearings soon.....VERY soon!!!

[Matt Russell]

I've been having some bearing problems: blown a clutch bearing, and my left rear. i'm now keeping spares in the tool box. i haven't heard much from other 3X-NT'ers about bearings: mostly battery boxes - which i'm having a major problem with myself. currently on my 5th set :mad: !

any help with battery box ideas folks?
(and, it's NOT just my driving!)

re: bearings. one thought i had is to be careful cleaning up the truck. i usually use a careful spray of alcohol and then wipe down everything with a rag.

however, my trackday before i blew the left rear bearing was wicked muddy: and i cheated and hosed down the entire car, including the wheels. i'm thinking i washed some gunk in there and wrecked it myself.

[Matt Russell]

Battery Boxes? Anyone? Battery Boxes?
(well heck, at least i'm keeping my shop in business!)

[NitroRacer10]

skipper...read previous posts about the battery box. I have a newer kit (month old) and havehad NO problem with the box as of yet (knoek on wood) but these bearings **** !!!!!!! I mean i never clean with water in fact I take GREAT car of all my bearings...these Losi ones are junk....I called Boca and I can get a complete kit for xxxnt for like 54 bucks that are ultra sealed and 6 month warranty!!!!

[andy51289]

SkipperTgore- Remove the stock battery box and replace it with Losi part # LOSA4120. This includes a blue front bumper, blue body mounts and a blue "guard" that will fit on the XXXNT's chassis as a battery box. It MIGHT require some mods, but I'm not sure. This battery "box" is not sealed, but it doesn't break too easily. They also come in yellow.

[andy51289]

SkipperTgore- I would first buy about 5 new transmissions before you install that metal diff because it will melt your whole transmission instead of a melted diff gear...

[Matt Russell]

and why is that Andy? (too late cause i already bought it!)
does it have something to do with the way the heat dissipates to the other gears?
i was just curious if you had a bad experience you might want to share...

[gubbs3]

NitroSmoke- I ran the 20 tooth for a tight indoor track. The only real difference it made was the top speed on the straight.

[Matt Russell]

Nitro- right-on... well good luck. i don't have enough hands-on to know if one's better that the other.

Andy- sounds similar to a jimmy-rig i've already been doing. picked up an associated (almost hate to type the word :p ) blue brace of some sort, trimmed it up with a dremel, and mounted it in the existing hole. only thing is: no protection for the receiver pack, which was the nice thing about the box, being it's 90 % sealed and whatnot. but your suggestion sounds a little cleaner. think i'll give it a try.

in other news: i email Losi about it, but have't heard anything. Hey, why not go straight to the source right?

anyone tried the Robinson's Alu diff yet?
picked mine up last night, working on installing it for sunday's race.

[dirtdevil]

let us hear how that aluminum diff gear works out. If you run the slipper too tight, something has to give. It used to be the diff gear, but with an aluminum one it might end up being something else!

[Matt Russell]

Hey Dirt, i sure will. got racing tomorrow. just finished the install and man that thing is smooth as silk. i updated to the new and improved Idler gear as well. so hopefully the thing will hold up. will run it easy today to get the diff set up and broken in.

[NItro-Smoke]

Guys, Im having a terrible time with my flywheel sliping on the brass colet, I clean the threads, coat the threads in Blue loctite and tightened the fool out of the clutch nut!! I took the advice of a guy at my track and he said to put 2 spacers behind the flywheel and try that--thats what he did..so Ill see how that goes---any other suggestions on this topic?? I run the CV-R in case you were wondering!!

[Matt Russell]

Hey Dirt, the Alu Diff worked out fine. raced 2 qualifiers and the main with it yesterday, plus 3-4 tanks of practice. i'm still keeping the slipper looser than the manual recommends... but anyway, it all held up great!

[tie-rod]

skipper - don't clean the battery box with alcohol it may be breaking down the plastic , i've had my truck since last july and just replaced my o.e.m. box last week , so it lasted 11 months and it wasn't totaled when i replaced it one of the bolt holes was split though.

Nitro-smoke - that should work as long as it doesn't move the clutch bell into the back of the spur gear , if it does try this instead just cut a little of the crank threads so the clutch nut doesn't bottom out before it tightens up on the flywheel , you probally should put a new collet on also if the flywheel slipped on the one you have it may have worn a groove in it , that will also make it difficult to stop from happening.

[NItro-Smoke]

Thanks Tie-Rod I did put on a new collet and the 2 shims do put the clutch bell a little closer to the spur but it doesnt hit! if this does not work Ill take a few threads off the flywheel and hopefully that will fix it!!

[Matt Russell]

Alright, this thread is too quiet for me!

Can i pose a question? what tires are you running, and for what types of conditions?

[Turboduck01]

Let's see some pics of your N-xxxt's, i'd post a pic, except... i have a GT :p but seeing pictures of nitro trucks is always cool so post some!

[NitroRacer10]

Triple XNT with Picco .12 Picco exhaust. Lunsford ti turnbuckles and hinge pins. RPM blue ball cups. Trinity alum. rear pivot block!
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1478378&a=11555516&p=48712946&Sequence=0&res=high

[Turboduck01]

Nice paint job and sticker choice : )i used a blue and silver fade on my gt, you can see it in the gt forum page 47, i dare not to post it on here to show you because of my fear of flames : )

[gubbs3]

Even though you have Ti turnbuckles and hinge pins, be aware of any large rocks, curbs, or anything else that you can hit and that won't move. I hit a large rock (the front wheels were in the air so I couldn't turn...darn picco) and it broke the turnbuckle (lundsford) and severly bent the Ti hinge pin. They aren't indestructable so be careful. Nice paint job. I wouldn't dare post mine but I've done much better, and I also don't have it anymore.

[NitroRacer10]

yea so why would you dare not post yours gubbs even if you don't have it anymore...why you gotta bag me for my paint when i did it with cans??? I could care less if you have done much better......I am proud of ya!!!! I am sure many people make their bodies look better than mine but looks don't win offroad races!!!

[NItro-Smoke]

Calm down now!! I really dont think he was slamin you at all...your truck looks pretty good to me, thats the only way I paint is with cans and keep it simple--its going to get tore up soon anyway--so lets get back to racing and how to make our XXX-NT Faster!!
http://www.plauder-smilies.de/rough/rocketwhore.gif

[gubbs3]

Hold up, I wasn't saying I have done much better than yours, I was saying that I have done better on my bodies in the past than the last one I did. Yours is very well done, and better than the last body I did. A word of advice- never use too much orange! Ick! :eek: ...unless you have a lot of blue, but never with yellow and red. I was shooting for a Skittles style paint job but it didn't turn out the way I hoped. So, no hard feelings?

[NitroRacer10]

HAHA well you know It rubbed me the wrong way at first then I posted the message....I learned awhile back when surfing the HPI forum to wait awhile anf think b4 I flame at someone and it worked I just slipped...and the funny part is that after I posted I had to make a 2 hr drive to Myrtle beach....well 4 hrs total later I realized i was wrong and the way you worded it that is what you meant about your bodies LMAO!!!! I just now got home to post another reply OOOOOPPPPPSSSS MY bad Gubbs!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanx for the comments guys....

[NitroRacer10]

oh by trhe way to make our trucks faster.....Try this, I heard it works...Don't paint your body b/c all the paint slows it down b/c of trhe extra weight.....you are to leave it clear...LMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)
There that should ease my tension I had earlier . I needed a good laugh..how bout the rest of ya...

[morfeeis]

hi all u xxx-nt peoples i have a quick Q i had a nxt gp and i loved the shocks on it i sold it awhile back and now have a gt can someone tell me if the xxxnt and the nxt have the same shocks

and if so what is the iteam # of the shock bodies botrhy front and rear

thanks

[ 06-14-2001: Message edited by: morfeeis ]

[gubbs3]

Yes the shocks are the same. Just out of my friends, I was the only person to have a losi truck while they all had AE. They would complain so much when they had to rebuild just because the shocks are a bit difficult to build. I just sat their and laughed because I could do all four of mine in less than half the time they could. Losi shocks all the way! They couldn't be easier to change pistons on too, all you have to do is unscrew the cartridge and snap off the e-clips, no more having to unscrew that stupid eyelet just so you can get to the e-clips.

[gubbs3]

NitroSmoke- I was wondering, where did you get the insane simlie face? That thing is awesome! :cool:

[purplerides]

morfeeis - yes the shocks are the same , the only difference is the xxxnt has 1.0 shock shafts in the front and nxt has .9 shock shafts they both use the same shock bodies though.

losi # A-5030 .9 shock body hard anodizied
losi# A-5031 1.2 " " " " " " " "
losi# A-5061 .9 shock shaft titan. nitr.
" " A-5062 1.2 shock shaft titan. nitr.
" " A-5064 1.0 shock shaft titan. nitr.
" " A-5015 shock cart.

[NItro-Smoke]

Here you go Gubbs: http://www.plauder-smilies.de/ http://www.plauder-smilies.de/puke.gif http://www.plauder-smilies.de/pcangry.gif

on the bottom of the page you will see the UBB codes for the smilies--just click on whatever smily you want then go to the bottom of the page copy the ubb code and then paste it in the message block it does all the brackets and such for you http://www.plauder-smilies.de/devil/evil_lol.gif

[ 06-14-2001: Message edited by: NItro-Smoke ]

[andy51289]

http://www.plauder-smilies.de/party/party.gif
http://www.plauder-smilies.de/rough/tank.gif
http://www.plauder-smilies.de/tales/smurf2.gif
http://www.plauder-smilies.de/party/ylsuper.gif
:eek: :rolleyes: :cool: :confused:

[ 06-14-2001: Message edited by: andy51289 ]

[morfeeis]

http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/invasion.gif

[gubbs3]

Like this: http://www.plauder-smilies.de/basket.gif
Haha! Cool! http://www.plauder-smilies.de/peepwall.gif

[ 06-14-2001: Message edited by: gubbs3 ]
This is too crazy:
http://www.plauder-smilies.de/smileysex2.gif

[ 06-14-2001: Message edited by: gubbs3 ]

[dirtdevil]

gubbs3: This is a "clean" board :D

[gubbs3]

I couldn't resist. http://www.plauder-smilies.de/sabber3.gif

[Turboduck01]

http://www.plauder-smilies.de/person/fro.gif

[gubbs3]

Some people would think we have better things to do... http://www.plauder-smilies.de/rough/sword2.gif

[NItro-Smoke]

Oh my god I have everybody doing it now!!! they are kind of addicting though! SO what springs does everyone run front & rear on there XXX-NT and what weight shock oil????

[gubbs3]

Front: Red springs, 56 pistons, 35 oil
Rear: Red Springs, 54 pistons, 40 oil
I should have never asked about the smilies. :rolleyes:

[NitroRacer10]

NitroSmoke- depends alot on your track and conditions. I mean I personally am new to the xxxnt BUT i am starting to get very good grasp on this thing with the Standard Drake setup. It seems to be the best starting spot then modify to suit you and your tack and really it wn't take much at all. I run red with 30 and 55 pistons up front and orange with 40 and 56 pistons in rear. Tire choice helps alot also..I learned that my first race and don't be afraid to move the front camber link on the bulkhead out 1 and maybe add 1 or 2 washer under ball stud on bulkhead. Play with it and go kick some AE A$$!!!!!!!!!!!

[morfeeis]

i know i miss that i had my nxt's shocks on my brothers gt for awhile

[Matt Russell]

Great! i've been hoping for some suspension advice.

Anyone have some advice about too much rear push?

i have to REALLY finess the throttle coming out of corners and whatnot.

I'm still running stock oil and pistons, though i ordered a 54 piston for the rear, should be here today. so i'm going to change that. I have looked at the Drake setup as well for ideas... but these guys run a lot of hard tracks, and mine is dirt... soft and dusty...

oh, and i moved the shocks to their farthest hole in the tower and the arm.

what am i missing? Spring change? Oil weight?

[Matt Russell]

sorry y'all... i've been rereading old posts, searching the web, listening, and whatnot... but i still can't seem to get a handle on this.

-Skip

[andy51289]

lower the front ride height. that should help.

[gubbs3]

Rear end push? Never heard it mentioned that way. Are you saying there isn't enough steering? If you are try going to the #3 hole on the front bulkhead. If that gives you too much steering add one or two washers under it. My favorite setup is still Matt Francis'.

[Matt Russell]

Hey Gubbs - sorry, what i mean is a lot of fishtailing upon throttle application...
i call it rear push, understeer, etc...

[gubbs3]

Okay, I get what you mean now. Most people would call it being loose.

Try moving the ballstud to the outside hole on the rear bulkhead and also move the rear hubs to the forward postion.

Also make sure you have the right tires for the track. Tires make the biggest difference out of any adjustment you can make.

[ 06-15-2001: Message edited by: gubbs3 ]

[purplerides]

the drake set-up seems to work better for me on the slick or loose soil tracks , the francis set-up seems to work on the hard high bite tracks.

[NitroRacer10]

Another thing you might try and worked EXTRMELY WELL for me is the 1 degree rear hubs. They will help your truck square up better coming out of corners and all of the "PRO" setups I have seen they use them. They were only like 5 bucks. I suggest a pair. My rear was loose til I put those on and thats the only change I made besides going to an Orange spring. Give it a whirl if you don't like it put the stock hubs back on :)

[Matt Russell]

Thanks for the words folks...
Nitro: 1 degree, eh? so that runs < toe than stock, is that correct?

Gubbs: I'm sorry, still learning... i confess that i don't even know how to move the hubs. I pored through the manual before looking for direction, but to no avail.
i'll take another look tonight when i get home from work.
new tires are actually coming, hopefully today. anyone tried the T-Bone (rear) and Razor pin (front) tires?


All: so, let me get this straight: for bumpier, softer tracks = softer rear suspension. harder, packed tracks = softer rear suspension. If true, that will help me with oil and spring choices, which i already have some ideas about.

Of course, one thing that would help is if i hadn't bought such a powerful motor, but that thing runs like a top!
-Skip

[gubbs3]

All you have to do to move the hubs is pop off one of the e-clips on the hinge pin for the hub, slide it out, move both of the spacers the the rear side of the hub, and slide the pin back in. Thats about it. Just double check your work once you've finished. The first time I did this I accidentally put the hubs forward on one side and rear on the other. That was a weird driving truck! http://www.plauder-smilies.de/coolman.gif

[Matt Russell]

Hey Gubbs - thanks!

http://www.plauder-smilies.de/kopfpatsch.gif

[andy51289]

SkipperTgore- I have a whole list of stuff that will help you decide that "Softer rear springs for harder track" and things like that. e-mail me at andy51289@carolina.rr.com
and I'll hook you up.

[NitroRacer10]

Adding the 1 degre hubs gives MORE toe in..1 more degree :) I have never tried movig hubs forward but I THINK you will lose some steering if you do this too...I am not sure though????

[gubbs3]

From what I've experienced the steering doesn't change that much. Mainly because the wheelbase is shorter, but the largest benefit from the change is that there is more weight over the rear wheels which gives better rear traction and on power bite.

The XXX-NT is so adjustable that if you make any of these adjustments that go too far in one direction, there are a lot of other options to go back.

[Matt Russell]

Andy- thanks, it's on the way...

Nitro- gotcha.

Gubbs- Will try that... NOW i get what you are saying. before, i was looking at the holes in the arm trying to find another set to move to... Anyway, i'll move those today while i'm cleaning...

raceday tomorrow! thanks for all the help guys! Sunday is my favorite day of the week... http://www.plauder-smilies.de/bounce/1syellow1.gif

[Matt Russell]

Purplerides - what track (s) do you go to in NJ?

[andy51289]

SkipperTgore- You have mail!

[MikeK]

Has anyone tried or heared of shock socks to keep your shock shafts clean if so do they work and were do you get them?

[purplerides]

vineland .

[Matt Russell]

Vineland, eh? haven't heard of that one...
We were supposed to go to American in Englishtown, but rained all day yesterday.
Ever been there?

Mike K - don't know about socks_for_ shocks ;) but i do know that someone sent in a "Quick tip" to the latest RCCA about that:
use balloons.

[ 06-18-2001: Message edited by: SkipperTgore ]

[purplerides]

skippertgore - yea i race at E-Town several times a year , the guys from the vineland track go up on occassion and we go up for there big races , and they come down to vineland for are big races , at vineland we get allot more gas racers on a weekly basis we get 35-40 gas trucks out every week , and e-town gets like 10-15 gas trucks, i only race gas plus vineland is closer to my house,are next big race is labor day weekend The Trinity/Car Action Shootout , the flyer is supposed to be the August issue , i know Matt Francis is coming not sure who else.

[nitroman1]

O.K, this is now the second time my tranny has failed in some way or another. My diff gear failed in the diff ball section, just as if the rings were bad, as Losi was saying in the beginning. But the rings looked fine, and my diff was definately tight enough. Has anyone else experienced this? I am a little dissapointed because my 2 year old nxt's tranny is still completely stock, including bearings. And I have had the compound gear go out before the diff gear now in the xxxnt. Hope you guys have some suggestions, (gubbs) :mad:

[NItro-Smoke]

I havent had one problem with my XXX-NT..I have about 2 gallons through it!! I just took the diff apart to check it out and relube it--looks fine....Im thinking maybe the nut is backing out on you as you run it therefore loosening and then it slips and you know what happens fromm there!! What I do is put a little lock-tite on the screw before I tightened the diff to hold it better!! seem to work for me...

[Matt Russell]

Makes sure that your slipper will slip before the diff... that's where i screwed up.

the only other thing i can think of, is that my LHS told me when my diff went the first time, that the compound gear was next to go, and i should replace it while i was in the tranny.

so i'm not sure if this works in reverse too, first the compound gear, than the diff?
-SKip

[gubbs3]

I don't think you can "see" that there is a problem with the diff rings because its the size that matters. The original rings they shipped were too small and forced the balls outward which melted the diff. When you replace the diff gear and rings get the improved idler gear that is the natural plastic color. I would rebuild the diff with new rings and when you run it for the first time bring it back in and check the tension on the diff to make sure it won't get looser.
As Skip said,"make sure the slipper slips before the diff."