Team Losi XXXNT forum v2.0

[winning edge designs]

Nutter,you may want those engine even more once you know they are Jason Ruona's engines,heh. He has me selling them since I already have the E Bay thing all set-up.

Someone also mentioned a set-up board,hudy style or megatech makes one I think? Integy as well?.........The problem i've found is our cars have a bit too much play in the linkage and suspension parts for accurate measurements no matter what. I've tried setting things up to what I thought was perfect,then lift the car and recheck it........different usually............I'm sure it's still closer to ideal then an eyeball. But just so expensive for something that still won't be spot on.............Jim

[racer13]

I got my xxx-nt broke in today!!!!! i ran about 10 tanks threw it for break in, after about the 6th take i started leaning it out some.. it's smoking well, hauls ass!!! i was in my local field jumpin a jump and it handled pretty well for a newb like me, GREAT CAR!

[bullett1818]

I was at the hobby shop the other day chcking out the XXX-NT RTR Sport and Im impressed with itlooks to me like it's a great truck. I want one really bad but right now im in the process of moving to a new apartment and starting a new job so I cant afford it at the moment but the hobby shop has 4 of em So I hope he still has one when im ready to buy. And there also getting ready to build a track where Im moving so I REALLY cant wait to get settled in so I can buy my XXX-NT.

Also Racer13- Which did you buy? The RTR or Kit? If the kit what engine etc. do ya got?

Laterz -BULLETT-

[racer13]

i bought the Rtr.. and yes, its very impressive! when june roles around im buying the Picco .12 side exaust p/s for $159 and then some lunzford titanium **** from them.. and prolly some other stuff, and get into racing.. only thing i had go wrong so far, with my extreme beating.. is that the one way bearing will start slipping while i was breaking it in, i went to my lhs and they said take some motor clean and clean it up, it worked fine after that! they said since i was running it rich, it kinda messed it up.. but once i lean it out more it shouldn't do that

[bullett1818]

Great Im to hear that yet another RTR owner like the truck. Makes me more and more sure that I want the truck. I'll prolly run the .15 till i have probs with it cuz of my low budget and cuz they'll let us run .15's around here.

Laterz -BULLETT-

[racer13]

yes! i have to wait till thursday to run it on the track though.. lhs decided to change it! so right when i got there today, it was like ALL RIPPED UP !!!

[bullett1818]

That sucks that u didnt get to run the track but at least you get to run it thursday. I so cant wait to get the money for one I was so excited to see one at the lhs.

-BULLETT-

Well for some odd reason I can reply to the thread anymore so i'll just edit in this one. Here goes

New 4/15/02------->Well guys Im moving tomorrow and starting my new job wednesday so I wont be able to read all the great posts for like a week or so till i get my phone an internet hooked up so keep the good posts commin and I'll read them when Im back online.:)

See y'all in a week or two.
-BULLETT-

[purplerides]

as far as the fuel filters go i don't use one i've have been running losi since they released the GTX , all of losi gas trucks have used the same tank , i haven't had one fuel filter related problem , many 1/8th scale tanks don't have a filter in them , especially the older ones , my MP-6 didn't have one so you had to run a external one , the MP-7.5 does have one and i haven't had a problem yet.

[HYDRAMATIC99]

Im picking up a RTR hopefully next week. I really prefer kits but it is just such a good deal, since i won't be doing and serious competion (just small races) I think it will be competitive enough. Glad to hear you like yours, I will have to see how mine is when I get it.

[racer13]

yea... right now my truck is in PEICES! guess i have to clean it up.. well, my brother is getting the same xxx-nt sport on wednesday.. so yea, they have nitro races on sunday.. but i dunno if i would be ready.. my steering is REALLY touchy

[winning edge designs]

Racer13,try some new rear tires,like step-pins or Holeshots,depending on your track conditions. But tires are the FIRST thing to try for a less then ideal handling truck......Jim

[rczonexxnt]

Two questions for you guys:

1. What is the overall gear ratio for the xxxnt (don't feel like taking the tranny apart to find out, didn't see it in the thread, either)

2. A few of the local racers have been working on setups and have some drastically different opinions.

The track has 2 large doubles, large single, and a table top, and 12 washboards. Most of us are started with the drake setup, which bottoms out when landing. Some guys think this is OK. Some went to lighter oil/ stiffer springs, others just changed to a more restrictive piston.

By setting the truck so it doesn't bottom on landings, reduces performance through the washboards. By setting the truck so it gets through the washboards well means you have to jam the brakes at the crests of the jumps and roll over them, otherwise you will hit hard.

Looking for other opinions regarding that us nitro dirt guys deal with. For now our compromise is a slight chassis tap on the landing.

[diesel757]

does any one have any setup sheets or suggestions for blue groove tracks. thats what my lhs is going to soon. the track has a few big jumps on it and is fairly large. its really set up fro 1/8 buggy.

another question; im having a hard time with steering due to lack of front traction, im running stock tires in front and rear(step pins), 30 weight front(red springs) and 32.5 rear(pink springs), arms and bones level, 0 degree toe in-out. any suggestions?

rob

[Nutter]

rcz: It's 4.11:1. You say they went to lighter oil/stiffer springs to stop the bottoming out.. huh? I'm sure it should be heavier oil (or smaller holes in the pistons, like you say) as this will slow the suspension down. Stiffer springs will effect the spring-back, not the compression.
A bit of a bottoming out isn't bad though, it's not unusual, so I wouldn't be worried about that compromising setup having a slight bottoming out.

diesel: Have you checked the Team Losi web site? They've got lots of setup sheets there, just look for one that matches your tracks conditions approximately. I don't know if they had any for the XXX-NT on blue-groove tracks last time I looked though, but they may have updated them since then.


-Nutter

[iondsky]

Hmm, I used to get one email when someone posted, and I would receive no more until I visited the page. Now it seems that I get an email for each posting. Not too bad, just kind of cluttering. It must have to do with the server move...

Thom

[DR.GT]

Yeah, same thing with me. ijust had to delete about 15 posts.

[rczonexxnt]

nutter,
The guys who changed to a lighter oil did so only to gain an advantage in the other areas of the track, they smack pretty hard now.

rcz

[purplerides]

rczone - did you try going up to the next smaller piston and try drilling 1 hole out to the same size piston you have now and go down a 1/2 wt on oil this should give you similiar static damping for the handling on the rest of the track but slightly more pack for take off and landings of the bigger jumps.

[racer13]

on my x3nt i went to tighten the differential cuz it's a new car and the intrustions tell you to... it said spin the left out side rear wheel back wards (reverse of normal flow..) while having an allen wrentch in the screw/cuplaur and i spunn the wheel and i cant remember if i heard a pop or not i might have but now my wheels seem to spin forward easier then my brothers x3nt...

am i gona have to pull my tranny off and take a look inside to insure that nothin is wrong with it?

from the sounds of this what do u guys thing happened?

[drdirt]

Hi Guys; I've been busy lately so I haven't been around the puter. My son and I went to American Raceway the past 2 sundays. It was a lot of fun, but boy do I need a driving school! Thanks to the MONSTER and every other thing I could hit, I now have multi colored parts everywhere. HE HE:D That was the first week. Last week after a little front end alignment I did a little better. 2 practice sessions and 3 heats and no broken parts. tadaaaaaaaaahhhh Popped a ballcup the first lap of main:( This sunday we will be going to Emmaus Pa for opening day of Penn Jersey Nitro oval track. Our little group has expanded to about 18 gas trucks. Every one is welcome to partake of a little high traction mud slingin. The hot dogs and cokes are on us, especially if someone has a AMB scoring system they aren't using:D Thanks to all for the help.

[rczonexxnt]

any of you guys know if you can take the slide carbe of a Mugen MT12 and replace it with an OS rotary carb?

Thanks.

[dkj-M3]

racer13 - Does it spin almost like the front wheels if so you prob stripped the screw or nut. I did the same thing with my 1st build of the diff. Did you tighten it a lot or 1/8th turn like the manual said. Check earlier posts, its covered somewhere.

rczonexxnt - I think so Lundsford Racing makes adaptors for the O.S. carb to fit on other models. I was going to do that with my Nova Evo II with slide, but decided to buy a new rotary carb engine. And put the Evo II in my Super Nitro.

drdirt - Practice makes perfect. Almost:D

[racer13]

we striped the nut, thanx though.. does any one know where to get another one?

[dkj-M3]

racer13 - http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/searchpn.pl?stype=number&pn=6306 You might want to try a different stronger nut.

rczonexxnt - How do you like that engine?

[winning edge designs]

Nutter has it spot on!

For set-ups if you guys want to try what i'm using i'll throw it out here. A bunch of locals tried it and said it was the best thier truck has been.....: Front,orange springs,27.5 wt. 57 pistons,in #2 tower and middle arm,with .090 spacers in shock. camber in #3,with two washers B outer. Set at -1 camber and zero toe.
:Rear,Orange springs(or red for low bite,rough tracks)40 wt 54 pistons,in #3 tower and middle arm. camber in #2 and A hub. Set at zero camber with +1 degree hubs. Steering servo back.......Kind of a variation from Matts set-up,suited for Florida style tracks. Decent bite,but never really hooked up,big jumps,rough sections.............Let me know if you try it and what you think,Jim

[rczonexxnt]

Anyone know the pn for the lunsford carb adapter (MT12 to OS)

Got a good deal on a new motor w/ slide carb. From what i read in this forum, I should stick to rotary.

Anybody have any comments?

[rczonexxnt]

dkj-M3,

Still doing the break-in. Much more power than I need. I think I will have a lot of throttle dialed out (at the transmitter).

All the tracks I have ever been to its not the motor that matters, its the driver. Case in point - I have a few dynamite .12 spd s that I use for "practice" motors. Water wasn't available one hot sunny day, and after the B main guys ran for 15 mins (10 main, + practice) the track was very loose. Instead of changing my setup from a high traction to low traction setup, I just plopped in one of my trusty .12 spd s. Led every lap, won by 2.

I can't remember the last main I was in were no drivers killed an engine.

I have had my doors blown off by this motor, before (can't beat them, join them)...

[winning edge designs]

The rotary carb is the way to go,imo. Unless your on a very high bite track and don't drive to others much.

I'd check lunsfords site,or any dealers who sell thier product. I think I saw adapters from them in the Superior hobbies store. Call em and check. 407-834-9299...Tell em' I sent you and see if they can't hook you up!........Jim

[racer13]

i went down and we got sum new bolts for my bro's car.. saw the beginning of the new track.. first jump they made was a 14' double (It's awesome)

[Kritter626]

OK here goes. I have been out of racing for over 12 years and just picked up a xxxnt and have a few questions, I am also new to this board so bare with me. I also relaize a lot of this is opinion but I wnat to hearem.

What is a boost box? Do I need one?

What is a good glow plug igniter?
" " receiver pack?
What is a fail safe?
What servos should I run?
What is a good motor easy enough for a first time gaser but competitive?
Are the Lunsford Turn Buckles worth it?
Do they require you to use there Ti balls and cups?
Is the Hitec Lynx 3d radio with the dial in frequency the hot ticket?
What are some good servos for gas and steering?
Can I throw on a heavy duty return spring to be sure that the servo never stays WFO in case of a TX problem? Assuming I do the proper calcs for spring rate according to the torque of the servo.

Any other suggestions for me would be appreciated. I will be racing locally and jsut want a nice truck that can be competitive. I do not need the best of everything nor do I want junk, but I am on somewhat of a budget so thanks for any suggestions.

Also who here races in So Cal. I know about Pegasus which is about 20 minutes from my house but all my old tracks (Ranch Pitshop, AJB Racing, Glendora Hobbies, Break Away all seem to have closed down or moved away, so where are you so cal people racing?



Thanks for your time guys.

Kris
www.dmsrace.com

[racer13]

i hope i can slowly answer your questions.. i just got 2 xxx-nt's



a boost box, do u mean starter box? if so, no you don't need one.. but if u want one then ok

a plug ignightor... i just bought a kwik klik long shaft one and replaced the battery with a 3000 nimh and it's awesome..

a fail safe hooks up to your reviecer to monitor your electrical waves, etc.. if your batteries run out it will throw on ur break intill things work again i think.. so pretty much to save ur car from bashing into a wall..


did u buy a kit or the rtr? if u bought the kit, it depends on how much money u are willing to spend.. the Jr servo's are ok, i think hitech makes good ones also

O.S. makes good beginner, yet competitive motors.. if u want to race get a .12 if ur track allows u to race with a .15, GET IT!

im not sure if those turnbuckles are worth it.. they are supossivly very strong, i haven't bent a stock one yet..


if u bought a new lynx 3d remote it should come with servo's and those should work great :D


im not sure about the spring, but give it a try, never hurts to test it out!


if u want to spend the money go for a trinity/picco .12 p/s or non for 140 or so.. that should be a pretty good motor!

heres the motor.. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXRT70&P=7

[Lord Radeon]

What is a boost box? Do I need one? * A starter box is used to start any non-pull start engine, if thats what your referring to here. If your engine has no p/s, yes you'll need one. If your referring to a Boost BOTTLE on an engine, no, you do not need one

What is a good glow plug igniter? *The cheapest one you can find, they are all more/less created equal

" " receiver pack? *Same as above, cheapest one you can find that is at least 1000 MaH for longest run times

What is a fail safe? *A fail safe will shut down servo action if you are A: low on batteries or B: getting radio interference

What servos should I run? *A standard servo will work fine for throttle/brake until you are experienced, but you'll want a high torque one (at least 70 oz/in) for steering. Hitec makes some good cheap servos.

What is a good motor easy enough for a first time gaser but competitive? *Any of the O.S. CV line (12CV, 12CV-R, 15CV, etc)

Are the Lunsford Turnbuckles worth it? *Definetly , but they aren't necessary if you don't have the cash

Do they require you to use there Ti balls and cups? *They aren't required, they are just well, made of Titanium :D

Is the Hitec Lynx 3d radio with the dial in frequency the hot ticket? * It an a very good radio that will stay with you for a very very long time, I've heard nothing but good things about it

What are some good servos for gas and steering? *Check out the Hitec 625/645MG servos... good performance and great price

Can I throw on a heavy duty return spring to be sure that the servo never stays WFO in case of a TX problem? *Your servo spring will never be able to overpower your servo, if its a TX problem, only a failsafe can help you

Assuming I do the proper calcs for spring rate according to the torque of the servo. (again, if your spring was more powerful then the servo, your servo would be useless because you couldn't use it.)

Thottle return springs return the engine to idle when your BATTERIES DIE or go haywire.......

Cheers

~LR

[Kritter626]

Boost bottle was what I was referring to. What is that?

[rcboy618]

you dont need it, and it is illegal to use if your racing. there is alot of tracks with in an hour of the 626 area(i live in baldwin park). there is hotrod hobbies, sun valley micro(or kz speedway), hemet, and extreme rpm. i usually race at sun valley(alot of fast 1/8 scale guys race there like chad bradley,kortz,korn, and others)the track is HUGE there. it is perfect for 1/8 scale, a little big for 1/10 but it is still fun.

[Lord Radeon]

RCboy... be quiet if you don't know what your talking about, thank you.

Boost bottles are perfectly LEGAL for racing. Their benefit is questionable. Theoretically they are useful, they are little bottles (or chambers) where expansion gases from the combustion chamber go mid-cycle, however for there to really be any benefit, the bottle would have to be huge (much bigger than any available today) therefore, they are deemed useless eye candy by most.

[iondsky]

I run an Associated throttle return spring on my xxxnt. I can be running WFO and turn off the transmitter, and the car drops right down to an idle. Your mileage may vary....


Thom

[Kritter626]

So what is a good brand fail safe or are they all the same? Seems like a good investment to me.

Also when i break it in do I do it on a stand or drive it around a blip the throttle?

LordR

The servos you mentioned is 50 bucks a good price for those or is that a bit high?

[tarvymoto]

arew you running for Chrono now? 1/8 scale

[racer13]

kritter, breaking in is very easy.. just run it a lil rich, u want it to smoke.. just kinda go around the street going slow.. don't go above half throttle to keep your car safe

[Lord Radeon]

50 is a bit high... they can be had for 40 a piece

[racer13]

heh.. today i smacked into a curb sideways and broke my rear hub... my first broken part!

[winning edge designs]

Lord R has it set exactly as I'd of recommended.....>Whew<,makes me feel like i'm NOT scenile yet,LOL!


Travy,Ya,running the Crono car RS01 now. Actually very happy with it. I still don't think it will get me ahead of Pavidas though,ha..........But it is ranked among the better cars,IMO,just a little tuff on a few parts during assembly,takes experience and good tools. Car handle very well,very adjustable too.....Jim

[tarvymoto]

Congrats on your great result in Fort Lauderdale. 4th in Gas Truck. You Da Man. Even beat Jason...hehe

Travis

[dkj-M3]

The curbs will get you every time.http://www.plauder-smilies.de/smash.gif

[winning edge designs]

Oh,Travy,you don't even know how much it hurts. Seriously......long story,got a second. This proves that racing accidents are usually just that,accidents.

Jason had about 3 laps on the field,he was so far ahead he wasn't doing the two sets of doubles. Just single,single every lap. Due to the Sandy,windy conditions. I was doing them,trying to get back in the top three(didnt work,too many donuts,LOL)......I let Jason by on a short chute leading to a double,then he mumbled something to me. I didn't quite hear him,but figured it was something about letting him by easily. As we accelerated to the big double,I had a bit of go in it.....Jason did not. I made up the two feet of distance too quick to react in time,I hit the brakes,but too late. I ended up rear ending him going up the face of the double. What Jason said was,"I'm not going to do this double". The truck Broke a rear A-arm on the landing side of the double..........My fault,going by the lap times,Jason would have had 4,maybe 5 laps on 2nd. He finished 5th after Frosty installed a new rear A-arm DURING the last 8-10 minutes..........Talk about feeling like crap for a few days,still do. Sucks bad...............>sigh<.

Whats worse,Is I stood right next to him on the stand,in case we needed communication..........Sometimes it's not meant to be were his words. Just like my 1/8th scale weekend. I was one of the top 5 fastest,including Saxton,Degani,etc. but the points deal hosed me pretty bad...............>sigh<,still not as bad as the truck race on sandy ice like conditions and jasons truck being broken.....That will never happen again,I hope,Jim

[DR.GT]

Can someone please tell me which direction to face the 12 bevelled washers in the tranny. I heard it is different than in the manual which is like this(S<<<<<< >>>>>>DNC).
Your help would greatly be appreciated.

thanks...:)

[Paul E. Garcia]

Dr. GT:

There should be an addendum (small slip of paper) in the transmission bag. Basically, the 12 beveled washers should all face the same direction (concave side away from the head of the diff screw).

RCBoy618: If you get a chance, could you post the website (or at least the city) so that I can look on the web or call 411 for some info on those tracks? I'd love to try a few different ones out. Thanks.

[Kritter626]

Anybody in the socal 626 area that might want to get in some races or even just some practicing? LEt me know.
kris@animalhousedesigns.net

[rcboy618]

www.hotrodhobbies.com
www.kzspeedway.com
www.thedirt.com

lordr- i heard this from alot of my fellow racers. im not saying you cant use it for club races, but i was TOLD by SOMEONE that it was not legal under roar or ifmar rules. if im wrong then im wrong i will admit it.

[iondsky]

WED Jim- Would you mind posting the URL to your website? I can't seem to locate it. Thanks :)

Thom

[DR.GT]

Paul E. Garcia:

Thanks for the info (I didn't have the addenum sheet).

:)

[dkj-M3]

http://www.jconcepts.net/page.cfm

[iondsky]

dkj- Thank you , kindly :)

Thom

[losifreak2004]

Chow Main - I thought the same thing, about Boost Bottles being illegal, but there's nothing in the ROAR rulebook against it.

However, the officials would give you flak for it I'm sure, due to the extra fuel tubing and what-not in the car. And for the fairly non-existent advantages, they are not worth the $$$

Jim - Doh! Don't you hate that? It's worse when it's your dad.....AKA RIDE HOME! HAHA You've been senile for a long time....don't kid yourself :p

Kritter - The Dirt website is www.thedirtracing.com and my home track! We'd love to see you out there! I live in the 760 area, about 20 minutes north of San Diego. You are more than welcome to e-mail me with ANY questions you may have on the truck, engines, tracks around here, and anything else you can think of. awaldron@teamurc.com

Break in procedures vary, but this is what a Picco technician told me (and what I've used since). Let the car idle through 4-6 tanks, make sure the engine stays fairly close to 180 degrees Fahrenheit. Then run another 4-6 tanks up and down the street, blipping the throttle and cruising around, making sure there's constant airflow. The further you go along the break-in process, the longer you can keep the throttle close to wide open. Then tune the thing for the track, and run it hard!

Did I miss anything?

Aaron Waldron

[purplerides]

boost bottles are legal , in fact some .21's come with a boost chamber which is esencially a boost bottle mounted on the rear cover plate , i know people that have tried them in the past ans could not tell any difference at all , and according to experts such as the late Ron Paris , he also claimed there is NO performance gain , they are just eye candy and another source of a possible air leak.

Jim - i know how you feel , i think we have all been there at one time or another , and i know i've done it , but it's also happened to me while i was leading or contending for the lead , it sucks worst when your on the receiving end...LOL it's part of racing , but it's also the part i could do without...LOL

[purplerides]

the lundsford O.S. carb. adapter for Picco , Nova's ,RB's, & Mugen's is part # 7201 , i haven't been able to find it on there there WEB site either , but a local hobby shop found it for me and i got the # from the package card.

[losifreak2004]

Purplerides - Italian engine owners everywhere are in your debt :p

[rcboy618]

i know there legal for 1/8 scale, i just thought they werent for 1/10 scale gas truck. i guess i was wrong. well im getting ready to head out to hotrods for the sidewinder race. later chowmain

[losifreak2004]

Well, I COULD be heading out there......but no, got another appointment with the neurosurgeon today :(

Good luck Chow Main!
Aaron

[WHITESTER1]

My tank isn't staying shut. It opens quite easy. It seems the spring isn't doing it's job, and keeping the lid shut.

Anyone have any suggestions or the similar problem???

[diesel757]

i just noticed the other day that when my truck took a tumble. when i flipped the truck back over i noticed the fuel was all over the ground and not in my tank. so with the tank empty, i pinched the fuel line and blew on the pressure line and noticed the spring was no longer doing its job to seal the tank. i guess it time to replace the tank, but my truck only has about half a gallon ran through it.

[winning edge designs]

Thanks for posting the site dkj!

So you guys have been there too huh?.......Feels pretty bad,even though i'm sure Jason is still bothered by it,he is being very cool,like he always is!.....I can here him next time,"HEY JIM OLD MAN,DON'T BUST ME AGAIN,I'M NOT GOING TO DOUBLE!!!"............>sigh<.........heh,Jim

Going to the Georgia staes next weekend,running Gas truck and 1/8th should be fun. I'll be running some fuel i've been testing with excellent results,called Rocket science. They may be selling it thru Superior Hobbies starting the monday after Georgia....I'll let you guys know how much,but it seems to be the best lubricant package i've tested yet(thats alot!),developed in conjunction with dupont chemical engineers!..........ttyl,Jim

[cabbynate]

Has anyone tried an MC8 in a .12 Picco? I think it is the warm plug. Would there be any benefit from it?

[igozoom]

I just purchased the Picco P 12. Was told it is identical to my trusty Picco 12 rc speed. After going to the OS carb, I love everything about it. Sadly, it needs to be retired as it has had 6 gallons through it on a clay/sand track. Anyway, when I only paid 119.00 for the motor NIB, I asked why. The guy said that Trinity/Picco has discontinued their standard, side exhaust motor!!! Someone tell me it aint so ? If I don't hear from someone quick, I am going out to the garage and throw myself on a drillbit !

[losifreak2004]

Trinity and Picco's relationship is no doubt on its way out. Picco has agreed to sell it's motors under the Orion and Yokomo brand names, even after Trinity drivers did all the R&D work. And now Trinity inked the deal with Sirio.

So it is VERY possible that they discontinued that motor.

WHITESTER and diesel - Try slipping a set screw collet over the end of the spring that pushes against the tank to hold the lid shut. It should increase the tension and hold the lid shut.

Nate - I always use a MC59 in all .12 engines

Anything else?
Aaron

[Lord Radeon]

Jim~ What GA track are you planning to come to? I heard that Twin Oaks closed down... are you heading to the track in savannah or the one here in Sugar hill?(www.sugarbowlrc.com)

[winning edge designs]

Lord Radeon,i'm headed to savannah,the next weekend. Still a 5 hour drive,:(........But worth it,the guys there are good guys,we usually crash a few restauraunts and bars after a day at the track....and showers!!!.....:)...Jim

[tarvymoto]

What's up man? How's it going in Jville. I'll be down there in 3 weeks. Not sure if I can bring my NT but we'll see. I've got a baptism to attend. Also , I'll be investigating a promising new job lead

Purplerides , I think I'll get a chance to come over to Vinelands again soon. How's the traction situation. Better I'm sure. Even if it's not , I'll be ready
Travis

[losifreak2004]

And I thought all the guys out West had all the fun!

Wait....we do have all the fun :D

Aaron

[winning edge designs]

Well,some of it i'm sure....but not all!!!

Have any of you guys tried tightening the clutch spring and lightening the shoes on your trucks. I did at our last race and it was amazing how well the truck leapt over jumps,bumps,etc............Jim

[losifreak2004]

No, I've always wanted the earliest engaging clutch possible to cope with my overly-aggressive trigger finger.

LOL, but seriously, at most tracks down here you either spin the tires or yank the front end off the ground. There is no happy medium.

[purplerides]

The traction situation is real good now , last night it was great wheel standing traction until about 4 minutes into the "A" main it started raining pretty hard , then it got slicker then it was when you were here , it rain for about 5-6 minutes then stopped , the traction came up a little after it stopped but still was slick , i slipped and slided my way to a 3rd place finish , i ran the 4wd hpi after that , track was still a little slick but it was fun with 4wd , then the "B" main ran traction was back to normal at the end of there 10 mins. they had good traction pretty much there whole race and the last 5 mins. traction was high.

[purplerides]

before the race started it looked like it might rain a little , i actually though of changing tires but i didn't i ran the same as everyone else , i should have been different and changed, they wouldn't have stood a chance then , but with my luck it wouldn't have rained.

[rczonexxnt]

I race my mt12 for the first time on Saturday. It ran great in the heat races. But then when I was running the main (15 minutes) it died after every 5 minutes. Obviously, I ddn't have this problem in the heat races, which are 5 minutes each.

I made zero changes to the carb, except increasing the idle about 1/4 turn before the main. I did this because between the last heat race and the A main, there was nearly 3 hours, and the temp went from 65 to low 50s.

So, back to my question, why would an engine running so well (190 during heat races, 175 in the main - cool temps?) quit after 5 minutes? Once the weather gets warmer I am going to do extended testing / reseting the carb, but was wondering if you guys had ever heard of such an odd problem.

The only thing I could think of is that the engine was running too rich and fuel was loading up in the manifold / pipe and it would take 5 minutes to get enough fuel to stall the engine.

Also where do you guys mount your transponders?

[rczonexxnt]

Thanks for the lunsford PN. I picked up the mugen rotary carb anyway, but I will pick up the adapter, incase I screw up the rotary carb.

[losifreak2004]

rczonexxnt - it is highly possible it was loading up with the engine running that cold. Was it dying as low RPM or cutting out? Was it making a sputtering noise?

But then again, with the temperature dropping that much, the engine could have been much too lean, and been starved for fuel. I would guess that it didn't get over 175 because it wasn't running long enough to warm up?

I mount my transponder just in front of the tank, with a piece of lexan attached to the two screws that secure the top brace right there. I have a hole cut for the antenna.

purplerides - Is the driver stand covered? Because driving in the rain isn't much fun LOL.

[winning edge designs]

I wanted to drop in and wish Travymoto(tarvymoto for those not in the know,ha) good luck at the nuero surgeon. I'm sure we're ALL pulling for you travy!...........Talk to you soon!!!,Jim

[purplerides]

on top of it i wear glasses and can't see through the drops on the gass , normally if i see it may rain i put a ball cap on to keep the rain off the glasses , i even have a bag i made to cover the radio that i keep in my radio bag for when i go to the bigger gas races and it starts raining , the antenna sticks out the top and the steering knob sticks out through a slot.

luckily the pits are covered so all your stuff in pits don't get wet.

[rczonexxnt]

Losifreak,
I don't think the engine wasn't up to temp. It was running in a race condition for 5 minutes. I think it should have gotten hot by then. As far as noise, under all 3 conditions, it seemed to be running strong, then silence. It was wierd. At first I thought it was a glow plug failure, but then the engine fired - after some effort from my pit crew. I am going to replace the glow plug, anyway, just incase.

Under 2 conditions, I was accelerating away from my fuel stop, the third, and last was coming out of the very last turn, also accelerating, but not from a brief idle.

Should I have compensated better for this temp drop?

Only thing I left out, was I put a new trinity fuel filter in before the main. But I don't think that's the problem.

[PJCruz]

Hey guys, just wondering how our NT guys did in club races this weekend? I had to work.. =( Anyways.. here are some questions I had for you guys...

* What pipe are you guys running? I have the Ready to Race deal with picco 12 and some chrome losi pipe... I also have a RB x12 pipe on my Reflex NT (with Mugen MT12)... how's the x12 with the Picco 12? Or is that Losi pipe pretty much the sauce for the XXX NT?

* I picked up on Friday a AMBrc personal transponder that I'll mount in my truck (or car.. whichever get the race duty for a given weekend). Where are you guys mounting "personal transponders?"

* Is it worth getting the optional rear hubs with the adjustable ball end for changing the rollcenters? My local track just "cleaned up" the layout and it's a super fast track.. still technical.. but FAST and TECHNICAL. It should but even more fun now.

Thanks dudes..

Pete

[rczonexxnt]

PJ brings up a question: Why get buy a personal transponder, when they are free?

I am not bashing anyone, I am just ignorant and trying to understand the craze for this. I race upto 3 classes in dirt, and swapping transponders would be just as much of a pain than it would be if I grab on from the rack. Buying one for all of my race vehicles wouldn't be productive either.

[racer13]

sorry for my stupid questions.. but what does a transponder do?

[Raydee]

Transponders electronically count laps. Speaking of transponders how are you guys mounting your regular transponders in the XXX-NT? I had mine in a lexan holder double sided taped down and it came off in my A-Main costing me a lap or two. Pics would be nice too!

[Austin GT]

1

[PJCruz]

Well, agreed it is probably overkill but, at least I don't have to worry about it falling out for one, or me forgetting to install it or remove it at the last second as I line up the truck. Also, Its very small and is powered by my truck, so in case I get a bad x-ponder from the hobby shop my laps still count; if my battery goes out, my laps stop counting.. then again my race it over anyways (no batteries, no x-ponder, no servos, no go).

If I ran more than one class.. yeah, it would be a waste unless I had two or more... but thats' not the case. I can put it in and forget it on race day.

Here's the bonus: the track software will ALWAYS recognize my x-ponder # so no matter who is racing... it will know my # is mine, and registeration is quick too. Not to mention during the practice periods before the actual race, when the lap counter software is in "practice" mode.. when I go out there.. it will count my laps for me.. and I can check my setup with real lap times.. and make changes accordingly. People who use the hobby shop transponders do not have that luxury. =)

ANyways, it's a small price to pay if you do any regular racing.. for $55 it's a win win for ya.

Pete

[tarvymoto]

You must have been hitting the bottle BIG TIME when you read my email.

Aaron , I did email Jim just to fill him in on your situation. I ask him to give you some encouraging words. In my eyes you are a tue sportsman and a gentleman for all of the great advice you give on the boards . Keep up the good work and have no fear. God Bless
Travis

[INFERN06]

i ran my XXX-NT today and my Storm Pro and just switched the transponder between them.I never have to worry thatit is not charged enuf from the race director,I can run laps if I wish and it is a bit lighter than the "rental".
I mount mine on top of the steering servo in the XXX and on the transponder mount in the 1/8th.

[purplerides]

rczone - change the plug would be a good start before you go and adjust your motor all out of wack , when i first started running my picco , i was using a picco plug all was fine and after a couple of race weekends it started stalling when coming out of a corner and throttle was squezed , changed the plug the same thing would happen after several minutes , put a MC-59 in (hotter plug) and the problem never returned , weird. second i would take the inline filter out and try it maybe not letting fuel flow correctly , did you change how your fuel line runs? ex. does have any loops on it? if so i've seen loops in the line between tank and carb. make motor run funny.

PJ - i liked the Picco pro pipe best with my Picco , and i like them hubs.

i used to mount my transponder in the body right behind the front shock tower , now i put a mount from my old MP-6 on the chassis plate in front of the receiver box.

[rczonexxnt]

PJ,
I would be interested in having my laps counted in practice mode. That would be worth the $. Thanks for the info.

Purple,
I was planning on putting in a new plug, before I messed with the carb. I am going to wait until I get some warmer weather before I try re-tuning it. It 30ish out. brrr.

Thanks again.

[losifreak2004]

Travis - Hittin the fuel bottle? LOL

Thanks for the kind words, it means a lot. Although no fear is a little to ask...:p

Jim - It's not Travis that's had a FIFTEEN DAY HEADACHE. HAHA

PJ - The AE pipe is a really good match for the Picco engine. So is the old Losi GTX pipe, but you're gonna have to check eBay and other places, they don't make them anymore. Another pipe to try would be the Picco blue pipe.

They don't make a one-degree hub with adjustable roll centers (what Losi drivers have is a different story...HAHA if Adam reads that!) so I don't think they are really necessary. On an electric car where zero degrees is OK, they have been known to be quite an adjustment tool, but I won't run anything other than one-degree hubs on my NT.

rczonexxnt - Accelerating from the pit stop sounds like the engine loaded up, but coming out of a fairly-high-speed corner and standing in the throttle is a symptom of being too lean and over-heating. The only thing I could think of to try in that situation is leaning out the bottom a half click or a click and richening up the top an hour or so.

Depending on elevation, it's always a good idea to richen the top an hour for every 10-15 degree drop in temperature.

purplerides - I know in high wind wearing my snowboarding goggles works really well, they fit right over my glasses. Then I guess you just need your pit guy to wipe the lenses off for you, or use MX roll-offs LOL.

I hold my radio horizontal (kind of like Brian Kinwald) so I can put both my hands through the bottom of a ziplock bag, I just have to use a small hole for my antenna. Helps keep your hands warm too!

[WHITESTER1]

Originally posted by Raydee
Transponders electronically count laps. Speaking of transponders how are you guys mounting your regular transponders in the XXX-NT? I had mine in a lexan holder double sided taped down and it came off in my A-Main costing me a lap or two. Pics would be nice too!


LOL!!! You were fast out there. Just a few more adjustments, and you should be battling for the win!
I used to put my transponder right in the windshield. Right where the back of the hood, and the windshield come together, in the center. That is... until I purchased the personal transponder.

I think the lost transponder cost you 2 laps.

[rczonexxnt]

losifreak,
richening for cooler temps? I tought that if you richen the fuel mixture, the engine would run cooler? I will say it was not overheating. I was running my "cool" weather body, with little cut out (keep the engine temps up) and it was below 175. If I richened the fuel mixture anymore, wouldn't it get too cold- if that is possible?

Thanks.

[Kritter626]

Originally posted by rczonexxnt
losifreak,
richening for cooler temps? I tought that if you richen the fuel mixture, the engine would run cooler? I will say it was not overheating. I was running my "cool" weather body, with little cut out (keep the engine temps up) and it was below 175. If I richened the fuel mixture anymore, wouldn't it get too cold- if that is possible?

Thanks.

Richen it up and it will run cooler. Lean it out and it will run hotter. More gas = more cooling, less gas = less cooling. The more oil gives you less friction and inturn leads to cooler temps and vice versa.

[purplerides]

rczone - what Aaron is trying to tell you is if your motor was tuned properly for max. performance and the ambient temp. drops you need to richen it up about an hour for each 10 degrees the temp. dropped , the theory is that the cooler air is more dense ( = more oxygen content in the same cubic volume) , beening it's the oxygen that burns in the air and when you tune the fuel needles your adjusting the fuel to air/oxygen mixture , so all things being equal except the ambient temp. you need to add more fuel to balance out for the increased oxygen level or you'll a mixture that has more oxygen and less(lean) fuel , then before.

[losifreak2004]

purplerides - Thanks for picking that one up LOL.

rczonexxnt - Earlier you stated that the truck ran great in the heat races, but then the temperature dropped. From the point that the truck was running great, it is a safe bet you richen the top end needle up when the temperature drops.

Kritter - You got it right, in theory. But you also have to compensate for the temperature change. Humidity also has a big effect (but not quite as noticeable as a temperature change). More humidity, the leaner you need to tune you engine (it will richen up), and vice versa.

[rczonexxnt]

All,
Based on what you guys are saying, My engine was probably too lean, and the "cool" head tempature was related to the outside air temp keeping it cool, not me thinking it was rich.

When you say adjust an hour, you mean 1/12 a turn? never heard it expressed that way.

losifreak,
I wasn't trying to disagree with you, just trying to state my confusion. I was completely backwards on this issue.

Thanks all for the help.

[losifreak2004]

rczonexxnt - I know you're not arguing, I was just trying to state what I was thinking in a less confusing way. That's all. Sometimes I never let my own thoughts catch up to what I'm typing, let alone expect other people to understand it LOL.

Yes, an "hour" would be about a 1/12th of a turn on the needle. Just like turning from 12 to 1, 5 to 6, etc. On the low end needle, you should be able to feel a "click". When people refer to 2 1/2 turns out, it is OK to screw the needle all the way in (gently!) to check it, as long as you keep track of how many turns you made, so you can reset it back to where it was.

Aaron

[racer13]

my truck seems to be running too "hot" ill run about a tank threw it.. then refill it, after the first tank; if i let off the throttle it will die, and wont start up again till it cools down a lil.. and i cant even put my hand on the head for 1 second

[losifreak2004]

Try richening (turning the screw counterclockwise) the low end screw about one click, and the top two hours. It should run cooler.

Don't touch the head! Try drops of water, instead. If the water sizzles and jumps off, it's too hot!

[racer13]

well, they even say that the new xxx-nt sport head should be about 3x colder.. because instead of anadizing they used a really high heat resistant paint.. and my truck is running 2x hotter than normal trucks.. but i will try what you said. thnx alot

[winning edge designs]

Tarvymoto,I hear you! But a friend told me that Losifreak was having brain surgery!..That was the comment he made about a nuerosurgeon!...I wish him well!


racer13,if your engine is running hotter,the settings are too lean. That is,no matter what head or engine your running if your over 260-270 degress,you need to richen the settings. On slower speed tracks the low end will have a greater effect,on high speed,bigger tracks, the high end will have a bigger effect on temp.

DOUGH!.........Jim

[losifreak2004]

Thanks for the kind words Jim!

Aaron

[tarvymoto]

Aaron , I talked to Jim last night and he realized that it was me that mailed him in the first place and that he had it mixed up. Sorry bought all that. Anyway, how you feel'n man?

[tarvymoto]

are you going to try out the new Orion nitro engines when they come out?What's the word on them

[losifreak2004]

Travis - Advil (800 mg) and Tylenol (1000 mg) alternating every three hours is a wonderful thing :D

Travis - The Orion engines are rebadged Trinity/Picco engines. Just as good, just different name and color.

[winning edge designs]

Aaron,you and Travy do alot to help people on this board and I for one can tell the kind of guys you are. I just want to let you know,I see what you do to help and i'm sure it's appreciated by everyone who comes on to check this thread out. Especially with the things going on in your life now....So thank you!



Travy,I will be running the Orion gas engine once they are completed. They had a very close to production engine they were using(only a few of the highest on the team tested them so far),but they had a minor problem and will sort it out before releasing the engines for sale. These are going to be in fact completely new made in Japan for Orion engines i'm told. The picco's are made in Italy btw,Aaron,as if you didn't know?....:)....also Trinity is dropping Picco as thier engine supplier,not sure who they'll use next.

Once I get my hands on one of the new engines i'll let you guys know how it goes. I'm calling about it's availability tomorrow in fact........Jim

[purplerides]

will be Sirio from Italy , i think i heard that a Rossi brother is involved in it? they will be suppling .12's and .21's. i heard there going to be real good , i guess we'll have to wait and see.

[losifreak2004]

Jim - Thanks kindly for the good words :o

Orion had Piccos in Ohio and Vegas.

From June 2002 issue of RC Nitro:

"Orion plans to offer made-in-Japan .15 and .18 side-exhaust Drones, and racers can pony up for rear- and side-exhaust versions of the Italian-made .12 Wasp Drone."

And if you look at the motor, there's no way that is NOT a Picco!

Aaron

[Scrad]

Hey guys, I was wanting to know if you could adapt a short shaft CV-R to fit on the xxx-nt. I want to get one, but the only motor I have is a short shaft. Let me know what you think.

[purplerides]

with losi's clutch nut design you can put a short or long crank shafted motor in with no modifications.

[winning edge designs]

Aaron,your right,it looks as if they were testing both styles of engines. We'll see what the final product ends up as,or from....hopefully not the picco.....:),Jim

[Kritter626]

I got my new Truck and broke it in last night. I leaned it out and I am not sure if it is too lean or not. What is a good reference number of turns out for high and low speed? Also how should it idle? When I give it some throttle it seems like it does not want to come back to idle after I let off, it tries to creep away slowly. Should smoke still come out after it is tuned? I plan on racing it this weekend completely stock to make the other guys feel bad when I beat them with my RTR.
me:D
them:mad:

[BuggyBoy]

im not a big losi fan.
but all i can say is that adam drake xxxnt looks really nice :)

[Karlos Fandango]

While on the engine subject, I was running a tank through my lovely little RBX12 to check all was well in my newly aquired XXX NT. Seeme the fit of the rubber 'o' ring isn't great and fuel is leaking out of the lid. Common problem?? and is there a quick fix??

Cheers chaps,

Karl

[racer13]

kritter.. it should idle medium.. but not crawling away.. to solve that, if u got the xxx-nt sport.. there is a throttle button.. make that 0 and see how it idles.. then go + to make it idle higher or - to make it idle lower.. on my truck and my brothers we had to adjust the linkage and the remotes..

[WHITESTER1]

Kritter,

Yes you should see blue smoke at all times. Even if it is tuned properly. If you don't see blue smoke, then that is a good indication that you are too lean.

[Scrad]

Hey, what pipes are you guys running? I was curious if the stock pipe was any good. I have a CV-R and a Dynamite pipe on my Ultima that I was going to put on my Losi.

[racer13]

i have the stock pipe for right now... but once when june comes im getting a .12 motor and putting a either a cvec pipe or some other

[tarvymoto]

what brand fuel are you using anyway. Some fuels just put out more smoke than others..ie.blue thunder. Getting the correct tune is a combo of sounding right(not gurgley..not tooo whiney,smoking right(should see some smoke off the line and at WOT),temp(if it is way too hot=too lean) , and ofcourse making good power.Tune the engine after it is warmed up. Do this by taking 3 or 4 hot laps around the track.;)

[igozoom]

Travis, haven't been to the track in three weeks. Been out of town for the company. (and you thought I drove poorly before) !!!

Looking forward to seeing you here. I have an extra truck with everything except an extra transmitter. I am sure I can scrounge one up. Kinda looking forward to someone else driving my back up truck to see what it can really do !lol

I got one of the last Picco P 12's from Stormer. Let me tell you, if looks are an indication, it's going to be a P.O.S. The finish is piss poor at best. Flashing everywhere, carb grinds. I am not a happy camper. Going to send it back, pony up some more cheese, and buy a TR since I can't find a CV R anywhere. What's the deal with the CV R's?

Call me !! I can't find your number and my cell phone memory wet the bed !

[deprco7]

I have two problems with my xxxnt and i could use some help,this is my first r/c car so everything is new to me.Thanks!
1)the truck bottoms out when it lands from a jump(the ride height seems even,but when it lands the rear slams to the ground)
2)the air filter comes off almost every time the truck makes any kind of impact (i have an OS CV hyper and im using the stock losi filter)

[racer13]

ok... for the truck bottoming out.. try either putting heavier wt. oil in the back.. or just put stiffer springs.. For the air filter.. put a zip tie there and just pull as hard as you can..


dang.. today at the track i was doing fine! only one there... intill i went about 20 into the wall and exploded my front end! i snaped my chassis brace in 2, and broke my front bulk head in peices... also bent a front rod, i spent about $40 :mad: i just got it back together like 5 minutes ago..

[cabbynate]

Hy guys!!!! long time no talk.
I got a ????? Have any of you tried running 0-1dg Anti-Squat?
I put the Losi shims under the back end of the rear pivot block to get 0dg Anti-Squat and was wondering if anyone has tried it. I hope to get more side bite and more rear traction accellerating over bumps.
What do ya think?:confused:

[tarvymoto]

It's just lik riding a bike. You'll probable be tearing up the track after a little brak. You'd be suprised , sometimes it helps.

You may as well get the TR. Get a Trinity#8125 manifold for it.

I'll be down the 2nd or 3rdweek of may(15th-23rd?...have to check). I'd love to run your back-up while I there.

I'll give you a buzz.

Cabby , I've never tried it.

[losifreak2004]

Nate - I have been running three degrees for quite a while, but I forget what Adam said was the thickness of a washer for one degree, so I'll post it when I talk to him again. I've never run zero degrees on my NT, but I have a feeling it would cause the truck to jump quite poorly, and handle larger bumps pretty roughly. The sidebite you'd gain would be at the expense of a little straight-line traction.

Then again, anything is worth a shot!

deprco7 - I'm assuming you have the stock setup on your truck. Go to http://www.teamlosi.com/pictures/jpegsetups/xxxNT/xxx-nt_std_adam.jpg and use that.

Use a pair of pliers to hold the clicking part of the ziptie and use another pair to pull the loose end. Gotta get that thing tight!

racer13 - I've seen three trucks with CVEC pipes. They sound great, but the SUCK. I would look towards the Trinity blue pipe and the AE pipe.

scrad - Right now I'm using the AE pipe and the older Lose pipe from the GTX (the short one with the stinger at the very end)

Karlos - Put a setscrew collar around the end of the spring that is not on the cap. This will increase the tension and hold the lid shut tighter. Also, try tightening the screw on the bottom of the cap. This will flatten the O-ring and hopefully make it seal tighter.

buggy boy - The Adam Drake Edition XXX-NT is THE gas truck to have! And it is as sweet as it looks.

Kritter - Sounds like your idle might be a little too high, or your low end needle is slightly too lean. A small amount of smoke is all you need. After my engines warm up there isn't really much smoke, but I probably have them too lean :rolleyes: Oh well, piston and sleeve sets aren't THAT expensive LOL

Jim - I know Orion had the Picco in Vegas, they shot the pictures for RCCA on the unfolded door of Theo Captanis' trailer. We'll see!

Did I miss anything?

Aaron

[racer13]

i just got my front end put back together with graphite parts... now i trying to put my gas tank back into my brand new graphit chassis brace.. BUT IT WONT GO IN :D

[losifreak2004]

Use a hammer!

JUST KIDDING!

It should go in, even though it's a tight fit. Try stretching the parts with your hand, or even bolt it into place to pull the piece into where it's going to go, then loosen it and mount the tank.

If it absolutely won't fit (manufacturer defect) then we'll see what we can do.

Aaron

[racer13]

im thinking about the hammer... :D i just.. put the rubber seal type things on.. then try to put the tank in, yet it aways wants to shove it upward :mad:

[losifreak2004]

The rubber things are in, but the tank keeps pushing the rubber things out?

If so, turn the thing upside down and put it on a table. Then push the tank through as far as you can

Aaron

[racer13]

um, GOOD IDEA! never be as dumb as me.. OK?

[cabbynate]

Thanks Aaron, I knew you would come through.:) I will try it and post what I think about it.
C-YA!!!!
Nate.

[Karlos Fandango]

Its gripe time, on investigating the tank closely i've discovered that the holes in the body of the tank which take the hinge pin are shafted. I will see if I can show a piccy later of the problem.

The truck hasn't been run yet as the kit was missing bag 'C' which I'm still chasing up after two weeks. I have to say that on the whole i'm not impressed with Losi. As I'm in the UK it seems that they don't want to help as the emails i've sent to head office have been unanswered.

My only solution at the moment is to keep hassling my LHS and the UK distributor which is beginning to really P!ss me off!!!!

Perhaps the FTRC10GT would have been a better choice:mad:
I'm going to try and contact Losi again about missing parts and what parts there are are badly made!!!!!

Any one here have any thoughts??

A Grumbling Karlos:mad: :mad: :mad:

[Lord Radeon]

Karlos ~ About the only way for you to be missing a bag is for somebody to have stolen it and repackaged the truck. Losi does 23109237123 things to make sure all kits are complete and have the best high quality parts around. I've never known any of the guys at losi to be rude or not answer emails... they are always of great help to me




About the fuel tank issue~ I gave up 12 months ago and redrilled for an associated tank. It places the fuel line closer to the engine anyway, I like it better.

~LR

[Lord Radeon]

if you dont want to redo the chassis for the different tank, try sanding down the o-ring with some 800 or 1600 grit sandpaper

[Racin Rev]

I have found that they don't always moniter the E-mail as well as we would like. Do you have a local dealer? or is there a Losi distributer where you are. I am sure that if you called them they would take care of you right away.

[TyroneShoelaces]

Karlos, ya gotta call em on the phone! Every time I've had a problem with a new losi kit, I get immediate service on the phone from Bill. He's a great guy, in fact because of him, I'll never buy another brand of RC ever again! Well, unless losi doesn't make an 1/8th scale buggy by the time I can afford one... in that case I'll have to get a Mugen and plaster it with Losi stickers. :p

[losifreak2004]

racer13 - I've built at least ten kits LOL. You learn the tricks after doing them a million times.

nate - I'm interested to know how it works. It might be the ticket for Hot Rod. Do you have the 1 degree hubs?

Karlos - You definitely got a Monday kit! LOL

Call Losi directly! Bill Goldsmith is the best in the business. When the NT first came out a local driver had an idler gear explode and mess up the whole tranny. Bill replaced the WHOLE THING.

Explain as calmly as possible what happened and your situation (living in the UK), and Bill will no doubt be a BIG help.

When I get my kits I immediately run a bead of CA around all the edges of the tank and check it for leaks. Granted, I've only had one problem with one (and it was definitely due to a sharp impact with a hard object at the end of a VERY long straight), this is always a good safety measure. There are tricks to keep the lid shut and what-not. But I hate the AE tank! The Losi tank is much easier to fuel for quick pit stops. holds more fuel, fits better in the car, and is made by Losi! Again, Bill will know what to do.

Lord Radeon - Gets the fuel line closer to the carb? Is two inches too far? I know many drivers that run the fuel line around the back of the engine head to get more fuel line in the car.

Racin Rev - I heard they get over 500 e-mails a DAY on average. Poor Richard does have to breathe! LOL

Tyrone - Losi won't make a 1/8th scale buggy. The production costs are too high in the US to do it, and they won't go overseas to make a competition kit.

Ever seen Adam Drake's Losi 9.5? LOL JK (It's an Ofna 9.5 with Losi stickers)

Aaron

[cabbynate]

Losifreak,
Yea, I am running the 1dg rear hubs. My setup is really good for our track and also the track in Havasu. Last week a friend and I set a new track record running 12 laps in a 5 min heat at the Havasu track. I am just looking for a little more side bite. Also a little more rear traction accerating over bumps.
We will see............... :)

[losifreak2004]

OK cool, so all I'd have to do is make one change if it works :-D

I COULD try it on my track in the front yard, but it's smooth and hooked up LOL, so it wouldn't be telling me much.

Aaron

[Kritter626]

Originally posted by dkj-M3
racer13 - Does it spin almost like the front wheels if so you prob stripped the screw or nut. I did the same thing with my 1st build of the diff. Did you tighten it a lot or 1/8th turn like the manual said.

Going back to an old post...I had an addendum in my kit and it did not quantify the amount of turn to tighten the diff, so I did it til it felt good. Well I went to the track yesterday and it stripped out the nut. I dont know if it was from overtightening which I didnt feel was overtightening or if it was just from use.

I think the RTR is a good kit out of the box but, from one day at the track I sheared a front arm, bent 3 tie rods(1 rear and 2 fronts), airfilter boot ripped, one glow plug, one pull start (not needed quite yet, but will need soon)and the diff nut stripped. $85 later and I am in the dirt again.

I bought the lunsford tie rods and RPM ends. I put them on and the rod ends seem way too stiff, they bind and the tierods rub on the front shock at the uniball and coil carrier. Will the rodends break in? How long will it take? SHould I move the shock to keep it from rubbing?

Also how do you guys with the sport keep the pull start from dangling on the ground? I put it up and wedge it in but after a lap it just falls down and dangles in the dirt and now is starting to unravel.

How long can I run it without hurting the engine? 20 minutes? an hour? This is my first nitro and I dont want to kill it.

Yesterday was the first time I took the truck out since break in. I have to say it was impressive. There were quite a few AEs that were anything but stock and I handed it to them pretty good. Was even asked if it was still stock and I replied, "just got it wednesday and havent raced in over 12 years, I brought it out stock to see what it could do". haha just goes to show that you dont need a $1000 truck to pull quick lap times.

Kris

[losifreak2004]

Kris - Don't hit anything! LOL that's about the only way not to break parts. The Ti turnbuckles are a BIG improvement. If the ballcup is just hitting the spring, that's OK, it won't harm anything. After about 20 minutes or so of running on a track, the ballcups will break in.

When you rebuild the diff, the best way to check it is with two allen wrenches. Put them in the slots in the outdrive to help you hold them still. Then try to turn the diff gear. If you can turn it, it's too loose. Tighten 1/8-1/4 turn and try again. Do this until you can't turn the gear, making sure you work it back and forth as you tighten the diff. When you can't turn the gear anymore, it is probably a good idea to tighten it slightly more (1/8-1/4 turn). Check the diff every five minutes of running for the first 20 minutes to make sure it doesn't loosen up. Then you should be fine.

Overtightening will strip the nut. It happens to everybody once in a while. Just one of those things.

Try untying the handle from the pullstart and sliding a piece of fuel tubing that's about one-two inches long over the rope. Then tie the handle back on. This should keep the handle out of the dirt, and make it easier to grab.

You can safely run your engine for as long as you want, providing you make sure it's not overheating, and that the air filter is still attached.

Does that answer everything?
Aaron

[Kritter626]

"Try untying the handle from the pullstart and sliding a piece of fuel tubing that's about one-two inches long over the rope. Then tie the handle back on. This should keep the handle out of the dirt, and make it easier to grab. "

IT ahs a similar set up on there but the starter does not have enough return-spring force to hold the handle erect, so it allows it to fall down. It would work fine if it had more force.

Also, i try not to hit walls but it is usually when I am not looking to far down teh track and a monster truck is sitting dead at the end of a straight away or on the end of a triple and I would fell bad if I hacked there car so I just try to avoid them andend up hammering down on the PVC or a wall. SOme of the PVC is not freindly at the local track either, they have uncapped ends in teh direction of the track and they seem to eat your car up.

Kris

[losifreak2004]

Well, that killed that idea now didn't it. :(

You could try a Yank Eliminator. Hammad Ghuman makes one, among other companies. This eliminates the pull starter, and hooks onto a cordless drill. Other than that, I can't think of anything. I wouldn't mess with the spring in the pullstarter, those things get violent!

As far as not breaking stuff, that's pretty much how everyone starts out. As you get better, the amount of breakage goes down. You will eventually learn how to look ahead far enough to see what's ahead, but that comes with experience. Try talking to the race director about enforcing a rule of making drivers announce that they are dead on the straight or other part of the track. Also, during a race, make sure your pit guy tells you what's going on. It is their fault if they don't call out and let other people know.

Also, talk to the track owner about fixing those pipe ends. It's no fun to race on a track that eats cars!

Aaron

[bullett1818]

I amback!! I've been gone for 2 weeks while moving to a new area. But i am back now and glad to be back too :))



-BULLETT-

[PJCruz]

Guys, I am trying to tighten down my slipper all the way.. and it seems now that the nut just turns, but the spring doesn't compress any futher.

I noticed the black nub on the shaft that sticks out from the spur gear turns when I turn the nut...do I need to lock it down or hold it while turning the nut on the slipper? My goal is to tighten it all the way down.. and then adjust slowly by backing it out.

Currently my truck has a broken rear right suspension arm, the only thing holding it onto the truck is the turnbuckle =) Would the abscence of the univ drive shaft from the outdrive/diff prevent me from tightening the slipper any more??

Thanks guys...

Pete

[deprco7]

I broke my rear shock tower(stock) on my xxxnt today,and i was wondering what would be the best replacement I could buy;something that is really durable! The only one I have seen is the Losi graphite one,is this the only option?is it any good?
Also while im asking,is there any other hop-ups that yall would consider neccessary for the stock truck?I want the truck to be as durable as possible.
Thanks for the help.

[deprco7]

I broke my rear shock tower(stock) on my xxxnt today,and i was wondering what would be the best replacement I could buy;something that is really durable! The only one I have seen is the Losi graphite one,is this the only option?is it any good?
Also while im asking,is there any other hop-ups that yall would consider neccessary for the stock truck to be more durable?
Thanks for the help.

[racer13]

well, the graphite compound is more stiffer, and i think may be easier to break.. but change the a-arms front/rear, i found those weak.. make sure EVERYTHING is TIGHT!

[motoman]

I was looking at buying a CVRX 12 motor for my XXX-NT RTR and i was wondering if it is possible to just remove the pull starter ? Will this effect anything?

As for what i've broken. On the first week i had it i manage to strip the steering severo gears without hitting anything and it appears my engine doesn't like me as it won't start after the 5th tank of gas (checked the glow plug and cleaned out all the fuel lines/pulled out plug to clear out all the fuel incease i flooded it and it still won't start).

[Raydee]

I think the main thing to replace on the stock XXX-NT is the tie rods and ends. Also make sure that you have your servo saver a little on the loose side. I think in the instructions they have you make it pretty tight and i also had a servo strip out.

As far as the CVRX, you can remove the pull start but you will need to grind off the little extra nub on the crank and buy a regular back plate also. Or you could just leave it on and not use it. I personally hate pull starters and haven't used one since my Nitro Hawk about 12 years ago. They rob power, cause air leaks, slip all the time, and the cord always breaks at the wrong time.

[hambone]

Guys, I stripped my steering servo as well, Called Horizon they said worst case $20.00 for new gear set, they ended up replacing it for free. The guy was cool he did say the z250 was not what he would use for a steering servo.... Get the drift......

I finally broke a rear arm by just clipping a 4x4 fence post in the yard. The only replacement parts available at my LHS was graphite.

Their in and ready to rock, If it ever quits raining I'll let ya know how they hold up.

all in all i'm real happy with my 3xnt.

[diesel757]

deprco7;

if your racing, then use a tire that is right for your track. i would definitly go for the aluminum brake mounts, the ones that hold the brake linkage to the truck, i have broke about three pairs of these. every time you replace a part go a head with the graphite parts if you can. lunsford ti tie-rod are a must have. when you get the super duty tie-rods the require new rod ends. the rpm grey ball ends are a direct fit for the rods but not the stock ball studs. you then need to get ballstuds that are a 5/40 thread instead of 4/40 thread. the ball is slightly bigger than stock ball stud. now leads to the problem of getting the new rods to work for the steering. the problem i ran into was getting the 5/40 ballstud to fit into a 4/40 nut. you know the ones that hold the ballstuds in your steering linkage. well i just bought smaller(regular) tie-rods for this but you can drill out the stock ball cups with a 1/8 inch drill bit and put them on like that, you can also do this for all of your tie-rods but i think changing to rpm super duty ball cups is stonger. just thought i tell everone this so you don't get screwed like i did. there is always more than one way to do things and your way may be different, this just the way things worked out for me. jm2$

hope this helps,
rob

[cabbynate]

Deprco7,
Diesel757;s info sounds good to me.

Aaron,

I tried less Anti-Squat and it worked out well. I went with 1dg instead of 0dg. My truck had more rear traction and seemed to have good power out of corners. I did notice that it seemed to not jump as far and stayed lower over jumps. Over all I liked the change and will most likely run my truck this way most of the time. The only draw back I can see is I get less air and I can live with that.:)

[racer13]

NEED HELP! ok i've had about 1 1/2 gallons threw my NEW xxx-nt sport.. ok it starts up fine, idles perfect.. when i take off it feels like theres NO power at all.. then when i try to give it more gas it bogs down and dies!!! i have replaced the glow plug, tightened everything.. my front bearing is not leaking, my fuel lines are fine, and i cleaned my air filter.. i don't understand!!! yet my dad wont take me to my lhs to find out whats wrong.. is it getting to much gas that it's bogging? or is it not getting enough, please help! im about to smash this thing

[WHITESTER1]

Sounds like the low end is too rich. Lean it in a little.
When you apply the throttle does a BIG puff of blue smoke come out? If so, you are rich on the bottom end.

[racer13]

ok, i set it back to factory settings then started slowly leaning the low end out, it still wont work!!

[cabbynate]

racer13,

Maybe your to rich on top?
try leaning it 1hr.

[racer13]

i give up man.. i want to get rid of this thing

[Nutter]

racer13: uhh.. it's been 3 hours between your posts, have a little patience.. some things just take some time to figure out - and when you do figure them out, you know what to do the next time it happens, so you don't have to go through the aggrivation a second time. It's called the learning curve. :)


-Nutter

[dkj-M3]

Go to the Ron Paris site. it has a great article about tuning I refer to this when tuning my engines works every time. just be sure to print it out, read it & highlight the important parts. Starting with the high-end, then low-end, finally idle. Be sure to tune on-road. It also helps to have a tempature gun. You can find a cheap one at radio shack I think.

Look for this title: Engine Break In And Tuning For The New and Experienced Racer

http://www.parisracing.com/engine_tuning_with_coversheet.htm

[Kritter626]

I have the sport XXXnt and the brakes do not work very good. I ahve the remote set to use 100% of the brakes and the servo seems to throw all the way but the truck does not stop. From WFO to stop is like 40 ft and this makes it tuff on the track to control. The little plates grab the disc but it still does not stop. If I tighten the nut that holds the assembly together it will grab but then it creates a huge amount of drag while not applying the brakes, which I do not want.

Do the binders just suck? What are you guys doing to get the binders to work good? I see trucks at the track that stop almost instantly and I would like that not only for the ability to stop but for the ability to set up my truck to dive into the corners with sme brake, which I cannot do now.


Also, how do I tell if my glo plug is going bad? Is it like a real car and it will start to run bad or do I ahve to remove and check it?

Thanks

Kris
www.dmsrace.com

[diesel757]

kritter;

when you say "brakes to 100%" do you mean you have your trim set all the way to the brake side? if so then you may need to reposition the servo horn or adjust the brake linkage. remove the screw in the top of the servo holding the servo horn on and the rotate the horn one notch toward the brake linkage. be sure to put the radio back to "zero" trim. to adjust the linkage you only need to loosen and slide the collars to satisfy your braking needs. i remove the springs and installed a small peice of fuel tubing(about 3/4 to 1 inck long) there instead. it may be one or a combination of these two things, so be patient and do one adjustment at a time. if you move the servo horn you may need to adjust the throttle linkage also. hope this helps.

racer 13;

hang in there. you'll figure it out. just be patient.
i just spent two weeks trying to get my truck running. it would idle, but when i put the gas on, it would die. every time. so after two fustrating weeks i went to my lhs for a little help (or a new engine).
come to find out i had half of a gasket(rear exhaust) in the end of my pipe! it was blocking the stinger when i would give it gas. go figure. well hang in there and be patient.:D

[racer13]

if i tightened my slipper to much, would be it be hard to pull my pullstarter? if not, im getting A LOT of compression, i cant even pull it..

[dkj-M3]

If the slipper is too tight you'll end up destroying your diff gear. & rebuilding it.;)

[rczonexxnt]

your slipper has nothing to do with being able to pull start your truck. Your engine is hydro locked. Pull your glow plug out and give it a pull or two, that will get enough of the gas out of the crank. I take the fuel line (intake) off the carb, and then go through a process of starting the motor (with glow starter installed) to burn off the excess fuel. After it attempts to start, I check the glow plug for moisture, when it is significantly less, I put the plug back in, and hook up the fuel line. That is my cure.

Noting your problems, you might want to consult your LHS, before you damage your motor.

[Kritter626]

100% means that the servo moves as far as it can. It's for ease of adjustability to suit different track conditions. I was out inkering with it and got it to work how I wanted it to. I had initially messed with the linkage becasue it was hitting on my highspeed needle adjuster, well when I did that is when I lost the brakes. I made my own linkage and now it will lock up completely and I can just ease it up by changing the percentage with my radio.

Racer13-
if you cant pull it it means that there is gas in the uppercylinder and yo ushould pull the glowplug and flip it upside down to remove it or it means you seized the motor.

kris
www.dmsrace.com

[winning edge designs]

Karlos,I think the guys hit it perfectly. If an Entire bag of parts is missing,someone was in the box before you got it. The only problems, usually, could be two left trans cases,two left arms,etc. Since that wouldn't effect the kit wieght before shipping. Call and ask for Bill as was mentioned above.

Lastly,i'll agree TeamLosi may make an occasional mistake,but EVERY company can and does. How they handle it is what determines how I feel about things. E mail is the cheapest contact method,but not the fastest,or most reliable.........Call them,Good luck,Jim

[diesel757]

jim might that be your work i seen today in the new car action?:D
looks good!:D

[NItro-Smoke]

Racer13, you stated that you are going to go to factory settings and start leaning the low end out! Maybe I took ot the wrong way, but you need to lean the low end IN! (Clockwise)! Just wanted to make sure you are turning the screws the correct way!. be PATIENT, it will come to you and it will be a blast, nitro is the most fun Ive had in years! Me electric car and trucks just sit now gathereing lots of dust! Ill never charge batt's for them again....

[Scrad]

Losifreak, Are you running the stock header with the AE pipe? What kind of lengths are you running for the coupling and did you cut or trim the header in any way? I looks like it would restrict exhaust flow, that being the gasket hole is so small.

[purplerides]

racer13 - like others have said hang in there , reset the carb. back to factory settings , adjust the top end first then the low end , be patient and make small adjustments and run the truck a couple of laps between adjustments.

Kritter - for the brake , sound as if you looked at everything and seems mechanically ok , now for adjustments , the collar in front of the brake arm(closest to the servo) is what is used to adjust drag brake at netrual move that collar toward the servo and it will add drag brakes , move it back and it will remove drag brakes , also if that collar is too far back it and it to far from brake engagement the brakes won't work well , first you must decide if you want drag brakes or not , i personally don't use drag brakes , but even if you don't want drag brakes you must adjust this collar so it's on the verge of drag brakes , to adjust move this collar forward and make sure the rear one is also adjust to keep some tension on it , then adjust the front collar back in very small increments and roll the truck after each adjustment until the drag brakes disappear or until the desired amount of drag brake is reached (if you do run drag brakes you shouldn't run much just a little) , once that is set then adjust the rear collar until the amount of push brake desired is reached , depending on the radio you have my radio has atv and atl , i set my brake atv as high as it can go and not overtravel the capabilties of the linkage , then i back my atl down to around 50-60% , then i adjust the rear collar for desired brake action , then during a race if conditions change to were i need more or less brakes i can adjust it with the grip dial on my radio. but not all radios have that capability.

[diesel757]

jim;

i have a question about suspension setup. i'm going to try the setup you posted last week and i was wondering how much of a difference it makes having the tie-rods in the furthest out on the front tire side and in the middle in the tower side? rear would be furthest out on hubs and middle on tower? the reason i ask is because i have the super-duty ti turnbuckles and the lenth is not the same as stock. also what do the washers placed under the ball studs do? is this to kinda be in between the middle and the outside hole?

the way you described your track you make it sound like it should work for my track. they have been trying to make the track blue groove by putting "soil sement" on it. any tire suggestions? i just bought some reptiles red compound for the rear.

[purplerides]

Karlos - someone along the line must have gotten into your kit every bag in the kit is weighed to the 1/10th of a gram to make sure it's missing nothing and every kit is then weighed to the 1/10th of an once to make sure it isn't missing anything , i know it's a long distance call but i would call them there great dealing with them on the phone , of course i only had to call them once , that was when the XXXNT first came out and the diff. rings were out of specs. they shipped new parts right out.

[dkj-M3]

I bought a pro-3 that was missing a bag from my lhs. At 1st they told me to call HPI, then they called for me & while I was there, they just took the kit that I had & gave me another new kit. I'm just glad I had only started building it when I noticed a bag was missing.

[dkj-M3]

Hey guys. DON'T use the new lighten slipper plates from trinity. After a days practice, I notice that my spur gear was warped, wobbly. & that was the 1st time I used the new slipper plates. It warped it in between the 3 spokes(the open area of the plates. It did this twice in a row with 2 different spurs. I put my stock one back on & it seemed to straighten my warped spurs back together. Let me know if anybody eles has used them without any trouble.

[rczonexxnt]

dkj-M3,
I have used the lighter slipper plates (by accident on my xxxnt, I use them on my electrics, and wasn't paying attention during a rebuild..). The problem I have seen with them, is that the plates themselves are "warped". I slowly rotate the spur to find the side which is high, and lightly apply pressure to the plate, to bend it to rotate correctly.

I saw absolutely no performance gain on my xxxnt. And I think the average racer should be able to see it in electric stock, but Modifed, I doubt it. better things to spend $20 on.

[lowbugit]

Guys I bought an NT 4 mos. ago and it has served me well. I recently decided to replace all the plastic parts to include a totally new transmission. I have completed the replacements, but the wheels do not turn as freely as they did before I replaced all the transmission gears. Is the normal as I have nothing to compare it too since I did not build the truck and transmission the first time. I have checked everything else and all is OK. I thought it might be some drag break after reassembly but that is not it. It may just take allittle running to break in the new gears. Opinions on this would be appreciated. Thanks Kevin.

[Karlos Fandango]

The UK distributor has finally come to my rescue and I should be getting the parts in the next couple of days, they are also sending me a new fuel tank so the NT should be running this weekend or before :D :D

I have sent a total of three emails to Losi but no replys which has come as a bit of a disappointment (sp?) I didn't see the point of trying to phone from the UK when Email should be just as affective.

While I'm picking up the parts from my LHS what back up bits should I consider getting?

Karl

[dkj-M3]

I'm a newbie & the 1st parts I broke were: front arms-ball studs-spur gear-diff gear & hardware-turnbuckles(up-grade to the Lunsfords not the real thick ones)-ball cups(get RPM's)- & last but not least buy quality allen wrenches or you'll have a lot of stripped screws(0.05, 1/16, 3/32, 5/64).

btw- I race & bash with mine, well I used to bash, I just race now.;) http://www.blackgoku.com/Knightmare.gif

[hardcoretmaxx]

does anybody have any videos that I could see, I would really like to see one in action all I have seen is the rc10gt and i had one so I was thinking of getting a xxx-nt but I just wanted to see some videos

[tarvymoto]

Originally posted by hardcoretmaxx
does anybody have any videos that I could see, I would really like to see one in action all I have seen is the rc10gt and i had one so I was thinking of getting a xxx-nt but I just wanted to see some videos

forget about the video and just buy the NT.:cool: ....unless ofcourse you are just fishing for videos

[Racin Rev]

Karlos,

You have to remember for a business the internet is still kind of an afterthought. Some companies are real good about allocating staff to monitor all of the mail and others have discovered the e mail to be an untamable monster. any hack with a question or a problem, real or imagined, can fire off an e mail. people are less likely to pick up the phone and call a company long distance so that they can ask "how fast does it go." or some similarly stupid question. I am not sure why anyone subjects themselves to that nonsense.

[hardcoretmaxx]

I'll probably get one but I just want to see some vids right now

[cabbynate]

Karlos,
Maybe some front arms. Those break pretty easy. Do you have Ti turnbuckles? Lunsfords are a must.

[Karlos Fandango]

The turnbuckles are the boggo standard ones that come with the kit.

Cabbynate, I see your from Vegas. I got married there last year, loved it and WILL be coming back:D :D

Karl

[cabbynate]

Karl,

Yea, I have lived here for 16 years. We have an OK track but it is about to close down.:( We will have to drive to Lake Havasu to race gas trucks. That's about 2 1/2hr away in Arizona.
If you can get the Lunsford turnbuckles. They should last a lifetime and if they break just send them (it) back to Lunsford and they will send you new ones free. NO questions asked.:) You don't need to send a receipt eather.

[Kritter626]

I am heading up to Vegas on Friday for the BITD las vegas race and for the supercross...anybody else going to either of those?

www.bitd.com
www.supercross.com

[winning edge designs]

deisel,my entire post from last night isn't here?hmmmm.

I have never used the outer most or C hole in the front castor blocks. It should lower the roll center a bit,but most prefer to move the link on the inside. I would get the correct length links if available in the heavy duty version. The outer rear hub position,or B,is better for high bite tracks,where ther aren't too many bumps and steering into and thru turns is easy to come by. The A,or inside hole allows more camber change,better for bumps and more side bite in the middle of turns........All these adjustments also effect roll center migration,and other things,but we won't get into that here. Just trust me when I say Matt,Adam and all the hardcore racers use the holes that will help you best. Those guys have a TON of track time. Check the Losi site for thier set-ups,or I have mine posted at jconcepts.net.:).......shameless plug,Jim

[diesel757]

jim;

i'm going to contact lunsford to see if they can exchange my tie-rods for the corect ones. i'll let you now how the set up works. won't be racing till sunday after next(every other week:mad: )what tires would you reccomend for blue groove tracks(front and rear).
just checked out your web site. it 's sweet man! i really like your style of painting. good inspiration.

thankxxx-nt
rob

[diesel757]

didnt see your xxx-nt setup sheet on your web site?

[tarvymoto]

I ask Jason to put some set-ups on his and Jim's site ... Jim's may not be completely current.

[StadiumJ]

CabbyNate said:

"They should last a lifetime and if they break just send them (it) back to Lunsford and they will send you new ones free. NO questions asked. You don't need to send a receipt either"

When I replaced my ball caps with some new bright yellow ones, I noticed that nearly ALL of my Lunsfords are severly tweaked. I have been able to straighten them somewhat, but not enough. Will Lunsford replace bent ones also? Are bent Lunsfords common (like I said nearly all of mine were bent)?

Thanks guys.

[tarvymoto]

go to Lunford's website and read the guarentee

[losifreak2004]

Jim - Good stuff. And nice plug in RCCA! LOL

Kritter - Not making it to the SX, I'll be here in CA doing R&D for the 50 team (XR50's, check out www.fast50s.com or www.sanoracingproducts.com, among others). I will be at Glen Helen and the U.S. Open.

That's odd, I've NEVER broken a front arm. They don't break that easily :D

hardcoreTmaxx - Sorry man, I don't know where you could find any videos of it. The only movies I have are electric and 1/8th scale. But you won't be disappointed with the truck, I guarantee it!

Karl - Richard Trujillo answers most of Losi's e-mails. This poor guy has the regular day job at the factory (he and Junior run much of the everyday operations) runs the race team, does the R&D with the drivers, and holds things down at home with the family. That, and I've heard he gets almost 300 e-mails a day. Calling is the best way to get ahold of Customer service!

lowbugit - Make sure nothing is binding, may it be caused by flashing, over-tightening the screws, old bearings. or anything else. It may take a while before everything spins as easily as it once did.

I use the Trinity slipper plates on my electric cars and have had no problems, but I haven't tried them on my NT.

Scrad - I'm using the AE non-pullstart header. 3/16th of an inch gap with both the AE pipe and the GTX pipe.

Did I miss anything?
Aaron

[SPeeDoS]

hello, my first post here and just wondering if diff nuts stripping is a reoccuring problem on the XXXNT? I have my diff setup like the associated spring style found in the rtr kits. But the stock nut keeps stripping.
Maybe I over tightened it, not sure, how are you guys dealing with this?

Thank you.

[Kritter626]

losifreak2004

I got this from a friend, sounds like some fun.

On Sunday, May 19th there is a 50cc minibike race in Quartzhill (near Palmdale). The last one we had about 10 bikes and there should be a bunch more this race. There are different classes and the course is sick, but crappy riders like me can still have a killer time riding also. Racing starts about 10am and goes for most of the day. It is fun for everybody, adults, kids and even women

[cabbynate]

StadiumJ,

Yep, they will replace bent ones too.;)

[dkj-M3]

I think the diff nut is aluminum find a steel nut at a hardware store. Somebody posted it earlier.

losifreak2004 - You've never broken a front arm.:eek: You need to come try the new layout at my local track CRCRC. There are 2 sets of ripples 1 after the other. You can take the 1st set 2 ripples at a time(slowly) but the 2nd set starts at an upward slope & ends on a downward slope (like a jump). You can make the 2nd set but you can't go to fast b/c the track turns right after it. To fast & you end up off the track or in the gutter tubing, where a lot of people break, including the a-mainers. I just now realized that you have to take all of the jumps slow. The track is crazy technical, except for a long sweeper with elevation changes that leads to a little jump (to slow you down) before the straight.

I'll post a pic if I get one.

Hey, fella's post 1 pic of your local/favorite track or give the link.

[andy51289]

Here's my favorite track. It's in Aiken, SC. http://members6.clubphoto.com/_cgi-bin/getImage.pl?imgID=9209280-2592&trans=

[rcboy618]

local track kz speedway (www.kzspeedway.com)

[winning edge designs]

We will be posting my Set-up on the site soon. I just got back from Gerogia were I was TQ in gas truck,altough my Team Mate Ryan Eckert won the 30 minute main. He's an awesome driver,a bit faster then me,PLUS he didn't have his clutch set as radical for the slippery main event track,haha!


Here it is in typed form,not as easy,but may help. Ft,Orange springs,35 wt 56 piston,#2 tower,middle arm,.090 spacer in shock(changes for different tracks,rougher or slippery track,less spacer). Arms level,camber in #3,w/3 washers and B hub,spaced up. Servo back.
Rear,Orange springs,35 wt 55 piston,shock in #3 tower and middle arm,no spacers,stock universals,Native racing battery box(new,available soon),dogbones level,camber in #2 and A carrier,+1 degree carrier also spaced forward................Hope this helps until it's posted

Losifreak,how are you doing now?

Thanks tarvy........Jim

[dkj-M3]

http://mivasecure.abac.com/remotecontrolhobby/graphics/00000001/batterybox_l.jpg Anyone notice the header! I'd like to know how it performs. & if I could buy it or if they just cut it.

Jim - Let us know how the batt box works out for you.

Those are some nice tracks, but I want to see the 1/5 & 1/6 cars in action at KZ Speedway.

It's time to get the r-t-race r-t-race for Sat.

I'm out, Darrell

[winning edge designs]

dkj,that's a great pic of the battery box that's on my truck!

If that is Jim Smalley's truck I believe that is a Native Racing header,but not sure. They have alot of now innovative producs coming to market,like the battery box and a slew of Tmaxx parts,etc.....I think they have a link off of the goar race track site. at www.goar.org?

So far the battery box has held up great,I think it's impossible to break and even though i've only broken one stock box,it's s