Team Losi XXXNT forum v2.0

[bullett1818]

Losi: Yea Johnny still drives the toyota but its a pro 4. Which is a Toyota Tundra full size V8. HE hasnt been too hot his first two years but the program is getting better. Oh and all the Pro Classes have a standardized chassis's That is Pro 4 4 Wheel Drive, Pro 2 2 Wheel Drive, and Pro Lite Midsize 2 Wheel drive pickups.(Toyota Tacoma,Ford Ranger, Mazda, etc.) Oh and Jeff Kincaid is Johnny's Teammate He drives The potawatomi Toyota now.

Scrad: I might be able to come there sometime. Im not in crandon now. I am living in Chippewa Falls right now. I actually dont have a XXX NT But Im working on getting one so I keep up with this thread. And I'd love to see pics when it's done.

[Kritter626]

Bullet:

check out www.race-dezert.com and go to the "dezert people" it is by far teh best racing website/forum out there. Sign up for a user name and let the world know that OHV's will not let anymore land be stolen away.

[losifreak2004]

Jim - Good guess then eh? LOL

drdirt - I only mess with the coupler length. And off-road gets pretty fast when you do it right LOL.

bullet - Sweet! Is he driving Rod Millen's old truck then?

Aaron

[bullett1818]

Losi: No it's not Rods old truck he actually raced against Rod for one year then Rod lost his sponshorship. I dunno why or where rod is anymore but he only raced teh circuit for like two years. But any way, I believe the whole truck is built by Greeves.
-BULLETT-

[Karlos Fandango]

:eek: :eek:

Just had the first run and i'm gobsmacked!!! How well does this thing handle! I was expecting bag loads of oversteer but if anything it understeers. It seems so much easier to drive than the Yokomo GT4 that I used to have.

The scariest thing was the power that I was getting. I was running on a 100*50 rough tarmac yard and was only using full throttle for a split second before having to anchor on. I have only run the engine about 10-15 times previously in the GT4. The XXX was pulling the occasional wheelie and lifting wheels all the time when cornering and putting on the power:D :eek: :D

As you can probably tell I'm chuffed to bits. Time to find somewhere a bit bigger to get used to the beast:D

Karl

[losifreak2004]

Bullett - I think Millen left the program after TRD announced they would not return to Pikes Peak.

Karl - Great to hear you're happy with the truck!

Just wait until it is in its element...on the track!

Aaron

[PJCruz]

I went down this afternoon for some fun at my local offroad track. I had tightened the slipper down a bit yesterday and was yanking wheelies all over the place in my yard/driveway. Anyways.. I had hoped to get to the track today, run a few laps to warm up the picco and then go to the drivers stand and get in some quality running.

I never did get to the drivers stand.. I had some minor problems all day long and then finally ran out of time..

I managed to break a couple of ball cups on the camber links.. both in the front I believe.. I bought a set of Losi's to get me thru the day (broken at different times). Also, near the end of my day, I was checking the diff and tightened it up (first time of the day).. and when I turned the back wheel.. it was a bit tight then LOOOOSE... and was "free." I'm thinking I screwed up the diff. That ended the day for me.. I'm thinking I may need to replace the "lock nut."

Anyways, here are my questions:

* Is there some magic secret to keeping the ball cups from breaking? The tie rods are Lunsfords and are fine, I just broke both cups about half way in the middle of the cup. Are RPM cups any better/tougher?

* Assuming I need to rebuild my diff, I have heard of people rebuilding it different from the instructions (i..e using AE parts/spring instead of the washers)? Is that the hot ticket? What grease should I use? My NT is a "Ready To Race" and I didn't build it.. Adam Drake did ;-)

* Also, will I need to rebuild the diff to fix the problem, OR can I just fix the "errant" part. The truck has MAYBE 15-20 tanks thru it.

* I also noticed my rear tire developed a "wobble." We checked the axle, CVA, and pin.. everything seems fine. Is it possible the wheel itself is bent?

My picco today was running about 260 or so, and yesterday about 200. It still is running very rich since there's smoke pouring from the pipe all the time esp when I give it some go... and it loads up pretty good sometimes and sounds like it's choking if it idles about 15 seconds or so.... I"m not terribly concerned with temp... it's been pretty warm here lately.. and my motor was SUPER FILTHY too (mud caked on all over and some on the head too). She's running fine, maybe could go a touch leaner on the high end needle too since she's not clearing out yet on the straight.

Thanks guys
Pete

[dkj-M3]

Well on the diff spring thing, the new sport rtr comes with a spring, & try to find a steel lock nut at a hardware store to replace the one you stripped. I know I can get at least a gallon from my diffs, but I always rebuild them after that, since I race. I used to snap Losi ball cups in half, until I switch to RPM's now they don't break, just pop off when they get worn. Could also be that I don't wreck as hard as I use to, since I'm better now.

And if anybody has ever broke a ball stud in one of the Trinity blue aluminum parts, just set it up in the other hole & run a few laps. If you didn't use thread lock they will loosen up & fall out or come out far enough for you to grab the thread. I found this out by accident. lol I'm glad I didn't use thread lock.:D ;)

I have the same prob with my wheels wobbling, & it's always just one out of all my pairs. Anyone know the fix?

[cabbynate]

dkj-m3,

Get a tire balancer. They help alot with wheel wobble.:)

[Exterminator]

Ball studs in aluminum parts.

I broke one once and now what I do is put a small slot in the end of the ball stud before I put it in. That way if it breaks I can get the remaining part out with a small screwdriver from the other side.

Tim W.

[Nutter]

Hey.. great idea Exterminator!


-Nutter

[losifreak2004]

PJ - I have run the yellow ball cups for a long time, with great luck. I guess the only thing after that would be the bigger RPM ballcups.

Sounds like the nut stripped out. While you have the diff apart, check all other parts for wear, such as the rings, balls, thrust, etc. But if it all checks out, all you'll need to replace is the nut.

Exterminator - Make the slot where? On the opposite side as the ball? What if it breaks off flush with the piece? I'm interested to hear how you do this.

Nate & M3 & PJ - The best trick I've found to help reduce rear-wheel wobble is to glue the foams to the rim. Use spray adhesive and glue the foam onto the rim, and let it dry. Then stretch the tire over the foam (turn inside out, hold one sidewall next to one mounting bead, then unfold the tire over the rim) and glue the tire.

PJ - Also, if the engine is filthy, clean the air filter off really well. I was making sure my truck was idling fine yesterday, started cleaning the air filter off, and the RPM came up LOL!

Did I get everything?

Aaron

[Nutter]

losifreak: He means on the 'bottom' of the screw thread, as you can access this from the back of every piece that a ball stud goes into, even after the ball itself has been broken off. Sure wish I'd done that before I lost the ti ball stud in that front bulkhead a few months back.

PJ: You may also have to replace the diff screw.. on my MFE for some odd reason both the screw and nut stripped in the middle of a run.. fun, fun, fun.


-Nutter

[losifreak2004]

Nutter - I can see that on ballstuds with nuts on the back. That's a good idea!

[dkj-M3]

thanx for the replys guys.

[cabbynate]

Losifreak2004,

Thanks for explaining how to glue the foams to th rims. I am going to start to do that for sure.:) Also do you trim your foams?
Thanks.

Nate.

[winning edge designs]

So you know,Treadz,grp?,Trinity?,(sheesh!) has a glue tape that is used in 1/8th for gluing the foams to the wheels. I believe it is available seperately as well.

As far as temp on a picco,I believe from other racers,that the engine will "move around in the tune up,without screw changes". Meaning you'll need to keep an eye on the adjustments. Also some racers are using an O.S. idle screw spring on the Picco carb,or fuel tubing to help hold it's settings.....But the most common cause of big temp changes is more likely from checking it at different points in the run. I see way too many people making adjustments after 3 laps,but they apparently don't know the engine isn't heatded fully yet,not even close. It usually takes 3 or 4 minutes of hard running to get up to race temps,sometimes more. If your engine seems to run great for 6 or 8 minutes,then starts losing power,you've just gotten to full temp and your settings are lean...................Hope this helps,Jim

[cabbynate]

W.E.D.

I think I will go to home Depot and see if I can't find some two sided tape that's thin. That seems like a great idea.:)

[losifreak2004]

Wow, tape? I never thought of that.

I use a can of 3M aerosol glue, it's like 1.49 for a can, and works good. Tape might be even cheaper though.

Aaron

[purplerides]

i haven't seen the tape sold seperately but i'm sure it's out there somewhere , the tape Jim is talking about is pretty cool when your done putting it on there no backing or anything just a smooth layer of adhesive and very sticky , and clean to put on no mess or drips etc.

yea Jim i've seen them guys to leaning it out after only a couple of laps , based on the temp they got , even when it seemed to me that there motor was running plenty fast , there usually the ones that start flaming out about 4 mins. into the race , or if there lucky and don't flame out during quals. they flameout right around pitstop time but still have plenty of fuel...LOL

[Scrad]

Hey where are you guys mounting your transponder? And is there a kit like for the xxx-t?

[losifreak2004]

Oh yes, the joys of tuning LOL.

"OK son, give me two laps and bring it in so I can temp it!" :rolleyes:

Scrad - Where do I mount my transponder on the NT or the XXX-T? And a kit for what?

[Exterminator]

Losifreak

As stated in another post. I slot the screw end of the ball stud. altho this will only work on parts that have access from the other side not blind threaded holes.
Next teardown and clean up I'm planning on doing it to all ballstuds just for ease of getting those darn things out when the ball and hex break off.

Also to add more side bite in the rear what is the best move to make.

move top shock in?
move bottom out?
washers under ballstuds?

Thanks
Tim W.

:p

[purplerides]

exterminator i assume your using trinities rear hubs putting more washers under the ballstud will increase side bite.

i used to mount my transponder in the body just behind the front shock tower that worked good , since then i took the transponder mount off my old MP-6 and mounted that on the top plate just in front of the receiver box.

[winning edge designs]

Cabbynate,purple rides has seen it. It's not like regular tape,it holds an adhesive that is backed by a wax paper like tape. The paper part is completely removed leaving a film of glue,no spray,no mess in the beads,etc. Of course you could tape off the beads and use a spray too,hmmmmm,:). The Treadz Tape is failry inexpensive I am told as well,just not sure if it's still available with all the Trinity power being thrown around....???


For my transponder mount,i'm using a peice of .040 lexan,bent at an angle to mount the transponder over the steering servo. It's held by the pipe mounting screw,in front of the forward tank holding screw(sheesh,say that three time fast). seems to work great and the wieght is farther back then if it was in the body up front,it's also as low as it can go,easily.............Jim

[Scrad]

I meant were do you mount your transponder on the xxx-nt? And the kit thing I was talking about is for the xxx-t. You know that little plastic piece that has the foam donut and the blue screws and that's mounted back by the rear tower.

[purplerides]

scrad - there's no specific mount that is sold for that purpose , you have to improvise , i've seen many fabricate a mount as Jim described , i've seen people get some graphite or fiberglass , thick lexan ,or kydex(sp) type materials and mount it much as i mounted my MP-6 mount , the main thing is to be sure it's secure , for one the transponders are exspensive and tracks kinda get upset when they get damaged and/or fall out , mount it as if where your $80. peice of equipment. i also use a very large and thick body clip to hold it in.

[losifreak2004]

Scrad - I have mine mounted like Jim

Exterminator - I have the stock hubs on (well, Losi one degrees) so I would move the shock out on the arm.

Purplerides, winning edge designs, and losifreak2004......XXXNT question-answering team to the masses HAHAHAHA!

Aaron

[iondsky]

Originally posted by losifreak2004
Purplerides, winning edge designs, and losifreak2004......XXXNT question-answering team to the masses HAHAHAHA!

Aaron

That's why I lurk around here like a madman! :)

Y'all are 'da men!


Thom

[bullett1818]

I dont even own a XXX NT yet and I keep up with the forum cuz you guys are so awesome, and not just Purplerides,losifreak,and winningedgedesigns but everyone in here. The previously mentioned three are like experts or sumtin! But everybody is kewl in here!!! Deffinatly my fav thread by far. -BULLETT-

[PJCruz]

Guys, I think I have found someone to work my weekend in June. The local offroad track is having another "big" race so I have begun prepping NOW. I am taking the truck apart to rebuild and clean thoroughly.. anyways I have a question....

I want to get the Drake setup from the Dirt track. Now the setup sheet makes mention of "washers" under the bellcrank and the the spindle. Now is this the "stock" piece or is it for the hopup blue alum trinity piece?

Also, what size washers do you use to make the adjustments? Or does it come with them?

Also, for the rear, I have the stock hub carriers.. the 1 and 2 deg parts are cheap so I may get them both. What is the stock unit? 2.5deg? I assume this is "toe-in." Does the alum pivot block do anything besides add some rigidity or does it also change toe in at all?

Where can I get the trinity pieces for the front (aluminum)?

Apart from that I will rebuild as is, and just clean check everything.. I may even build a 2nd diff as a safety measure. I will rebuild the shocks with a heavier oil (maybe 40 to 50) since my truck is a little "hoppity" going thru the turns.

Thanks
Pete

[Lord Radeon]

WEDJim~ What glow plug are you/ do you suggest using for an OS .12TR? I have the broward precision head installed on the motor and its got about 1/3 gallon trough it. Thanks

~LR

[cabbynate]

Well PJ,

Scince I am the first one to see your post I will speak my mind.:)
I'm sure there will be others to add to what I have to say and correct me if I'm wrong!
Here we go.
As far as the bellcrank and spindle, I think he uses the stock ones there and the washers are the small gold ones.

The stock hub carriers are 0dg. You may want to start with the 1dg hubs and see how they work. They should be all you need. That will give you a total of 4dg toe-in. The trinty block should never break. I would rather change a rear arm than a rear block any day!!!! ;) Other than that it changes nothing. If you want the front Trinity spindle carriers try www.stormerhobbies.com.
They should have them.

If the turns are bumpy than thicker shock oil my make the hopping worse. You may want to try 35wt oil first.

I hope this helps. :)
Nate

Almost forgot! Going to 1dg anti-squat gave me more rear traction everywhere and added a little more stability everywhere too.

[Exterminator]

Here's my fresh body for the NT.
Second try at Airbrushing.:)

[losifreak2004]

Jim - We should start making stickers? :p

bullet - when are you getting your truck?

PJ - What setup are you running now? The Drake setup should take the "hoppiness" out of it. The gold washers go in between the steering bellcrank and the ballstud to add a slight bit of bumpsteer to help keep the truck stable over bumps and jumps.

I will get the rest of your post when I get home.

Exterminator - Looks awesome!

Nate - Good stuff! Keep it coming

Aaron

[hardcoretmaxx]

does anybody have any action pics or a video or a pics of it just sitting there

[winning edge designs]

Lord,If you got the head for O.S. plugs,use a med plug,about a #6. If your head is cut for the Mccoy plugs you can use a MC59,in fact if it's cut for an O.S. plug you could use two washers(copper gaskets) and the MC59 plug. Sometimes i'll run other plugs,but try for yourself. None will hurt the engine if shimmed for proper extension into the chamber and tuned correctly. The main thing to remember is, the higher the number,the thicker the element wire, So the colder the plug is. The thinner or lower the number the hotter the plug is. The main diference being how soon the mix "lights off" and how rich or lean the carb setting can be while keeping a reliable idle and good power..........If your engine runs hot,but only makes good power if set very lean,go to a hotter plug and retune the engine richer. Since a hotter plug stays lit easier and starts the fire sooner,you'll still have good power and run cooler!........You'll be amazed what you'll find by doing some experimenting!.......Hope this helps,Jim

[PJCruz]

Losifreak, I'm running basically a stock setup.. I havne't had much time to experiment and tune at the track. I'm hoping this next race will allow me that chance (esp since I am hoping to get their early enough).

Looking forward to your suggestions.

Pete

[racer13]

my xxxnt sport with some upgrades... :)


http://www.sm0k3d.20megsfree.com/IM000045.jpg

[cabbynate]

racer13,

Cool. How did the RTR parts hold up?

[bullett1818]

Losi, I just moved to a new town and in a new apartment just got a job an all that fun stuff so im trying to save the money for the truck. I have a good job so im saving, hoping to have the truck by the end of june. -BULLETT-

P.S. wish me luck in being able to save money with the phone tv power rent and all those fun bills. I HATE BILLS:mad:

[cabbynate]

Aaron,

Thanks for the props. But some how I just can't help feelin like Rodney Dangerfield. LOL!!!!!:cool:

[racer13]

cabby nate.. the rtr parts were pretty ok. the front/rear a-arms seemed a little weak though. but other wize a pretty good truck, it has new gas tank, fuel lines, fuel filter, graphite chassis brace, graphite kickplate/ steering brace/ bulk head.. and probably some extra things ( i don't remember ) but im trading it for a xxxt mfe within the next 2-3 days.

[cabbynate]

Racer,
Say it's not so!!!!!
You getting out of nitro?
Your gonna miss it!!!:D

[racer13]

lol! i know ill have the urge to slame one into a wall often... thats why i have a brother who has one?:D

[cabbynate]

Racer,
LOL!!! It's all good.:) I have a XXX-T MF too. I just don't seem as interested in it as I am my XXX-NT.
Have fun with it.:)

[racer13]

lol yeah.. i know! im going to get into stock racing though... with it, do u think this is a good deal? xxxnt sport w/o radio and receiver (mine) for a brand new xxxt mfe, with brand new servo, battery pack, new 24 t stock reedy motor, and a Tekin g-9 speed control? if not oh well.. i still want it! i have about $400 to spend so.. im getting 3-4 battery packs, a new speed control, 2 stock motors, new metal geared servo, and of course! atleast 2 bodys!

[PJCruz]

Anyone have any suggestions on preventing the screws on the bottom of the chassis from wearing down and stripping out the hex? I had to dremel out one engine screw and I"m going to have to dremel out one of the screws for the rear tower/tran case. There's no trick I'm missing is there?

Pete

[Kritter626]

Pete:

I just did the same thing...sucks. I know on my old electric cars when I race I used a sheet with adhesive back in that went ove rthe bottom of the chassis and that kept the dirt out and no stripped screw, it also helped for when the chassis bottomed because it was real slick and then you jsut replace it when it was time to do some work. That was about 1991 so I dont know if thay still make that anymore.

[cabbynate]

Racer13,

Yea, thats a cool deal. The G-9 is a sweet speedo!!! You can't get those anymore. I race stock truck when I run electric and I dig it.
I'm sure you will too.:)

[dkj-M3]

I traded my Pro-3 for a MF-Edition & decided to race electric stock too, when there's no nitro racing. If it helps, the guys at my track run the P2K motor for stock (not the P2K2).

PJCruz - Make sure you clean the dirt out of the hex holes, & if your using the little cheap L-shaped allen wrench's, scrap'em, & get some quality wrench's (ie. Hudy, Ofna, Dynimite). I think Hudy's are the best, if you break the Ofna's they'll replace it.

[HYDRAMATIC99]

Hey everyone, today I got my front bulkhead replaced and took the truck out to test my setup. About half a tank into it I noticed a slipping noise. I checked my slipper and diff and both were fine. So I took apart my tranny and noticed the idler gear was stripped. On he half that meshes with my diff gear all the teeth were rounded off. Any ideas as to why this did it? It doesnt seem like there can be that much play in my tranny to let the gear do that. Thanks

[Kritter626]

Alright guys I finally got a chance to get my truck out and I took your advice and fattend the low speed up a bit but it still owuld not run for more then 4 minutes and it ran crappy. I leaned it out a little at a time and it ran better but still would not go for a full tank. I put in a new glo plug and it ran a little better but still would die out before a tank. Any suggestions? THe guy that does the in house tuning checked it out and said the temps are good and it seems to be tuned good and it should not stall out. Well it kept doing it and after 4 hours I packed it in and came home. HElp me out guys, I only get about once a week to play and I am losing patience with this motor, otherwise its a blast.


Also it is pushing a lot into the corners. I kicked up the spring rate in the rear to give it some dive and I loosened up the front but it still does not grab like I want. I think it may have to do with the cheap servo.

[hardcoretmaxx]

any more pics

[PJCruz]

M3, I have the OFNA wrenches... it isn't stripped.. the screw itself is.. musta bottomed out a few too many times. I wonder if a "lexan" chassis cover under the truck would work (held on with velro).

Hmmm....

[Kritter626]

I do not think the chassis cover would hold up more then a few laps sounds like an idea though. If you try it let me know how it works.

[dkj-M3]

I read in an earlier post that someone used titanium screws. I tried using tape on the bottom, didn't last but a few laps.
I'll have some pictures up in a few days.

[Kritter626]

Ti screws dont like vibration and before you can get enough preload on them to avoid vibe problems you would strip out whatever they were going into.

[hambone]

Hydra99

Had same problem on two other trucks till we figured it out.
Ya got your Diff good and tight so it won't slip right, OK then you may just tighten the slipper just a little too tight and wammo.

The part in the middel of the mess is a plastic idler gear which will give by rippin teeth off or totally disintegrating like ours did.

make sure your slipper slips we loosened all three of our trucks and no more idelr gear replacement!

Hope this helps... Cheers and good runnin'

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

hardcoretmaxx...heres a pic of my truck

[hardcoretmaxx]

that looks awesome

[HYDRAMATIC99]

Hambone, my slipper was loose enough to slip. I guess when I finally get my replacement gear I will try running it very loose to see if that helps. Thanks for the help.

[cabbynate]

I know the slipper on my truck seems to get hot and get tight after I run for awhile. It seems like it's crazy loose and then it just tightens up. The nut never get tight, just the setting? I just run it super loose and into the race it gets right. kinds like engine temp.

[losifreak2004]

bullett - Sweeet!

Nate - Rodney Dangerfield? HAHA

racer - You'll love the XXX-T..after all, it's a Losi :D. Actually. I'm thinking of going to a track tomorrow and tossing mine around for a bit, just not sure which track (I guess that's a choice you have to make in CA :D)

Kritter - AE still makes that plastic film

Pete - Make sure you clean out the screw head with an old X-Acto knife really well, and you should be OK. I personally use MIP/Thorp wrenches. Big, comfy handles, and they are STRONG. They will also be replaced if your sudden urge to be He-Man breaks the tip.

I've been using Ti screws for a while now, and have had great luck with them. would reccomend stainless steel screws for those who don't feel like shelling out the $$$ for Ti stuff.

I've never really noticed my slipper changing from a cold temperature to a hot one. My slipper nut is very close to the end of the shaft, probably only 1/16th or so.

Did I miss anything?

Aaron

[losifreak2004]

Also, Nate, to trim the foams, turn them inside out. You should see a slight ridge on what is now the outside edge. Trim this off, and the foam will sit on the rim flatter.

Hydra - My thoughts on what might have happened; if one side of the teeth is more rounded off than the other, it IS possible that the bearing holders of the slipper shaft broke or melted, which has let the slipper shaft move and destroy the idler gear. The new tranny cases are beefier in this area. Make sure none of the other gears were damaged since this happened.

Aaron

[fly boygt]

Hi everyone, i'm new to this forum and i was thinking of getting the XXX-NT RTR, i was wondering what are some problems with it that i can avoid, maybe from experience you have had with it so i don't make any dumb newby mistakes. thanks in advance:)

[racer13]

don't slame into walls and you will be fine:)

[losifreak2004]

racer13 - Amen to that! LOL

fly boy - Well, first off, you should get rid of the "gt" in your screen name :p JK

Obviously, front and rear arms are always nice to stock up on, maybe pick up a spare battery box and rear shock tower if you plan on going big over jumps. Other than that, make sure the diff isn't going to slip when the truck comes out of the box. You can do this by tightening the slipper all the way down, then backing it off five full turns. Then hold the rear tire and the spur gear with one hand, and try to turn the left tire with the other hand. The slipper should slip before the diff does. If the slipper does not slip, tighten the diff until it does. After that, the truck will be ready to go!

Aaron

[winning edge designs]

My slipper seems fairly consistant as well. But I haven't run on any very hooked up tracks in a while. That may make a difference?

BTW, We got rained out this weekend at our Fl state series Daytona race. Some guys told me I TQed practice though,hahahaha.

I use stainless screws from Fastener Express,actually found them thru Ebay. Thier kits are pretty thourough and come in a good case that's reusable...........Jim

[fly boygt]

Ha funny losi freak, i do have a gt but i wnat a losi to, so i canhave both sides. Get the picture guys!

[HYDRAMATIC99]

Losifreak I will check the condition of that. Thanks for the help.

[Raydee]

All I have to say is I love my XXX-NT! It runs and handles so much better than my GT ever did. I put the shocks from my XXX-T MF edition and 1 degree rear hubs on today and it handled better than it ever has at our local track.

[diesel757]

anyone having any problems with stripping out the 5/40 screws that hold you motor mounts to the chassis? I using high quality hex drivers. does anyone know of any stainless or ti replacements w/ washers? (or that can use the stock with)

rob

[diesel757]

oh yeah, hardcore is now making ti screw sets but not 5/40. well not yet anyways.

[PJCruz]

Diesel, how funny is that? I also need to find a 5-40 screw for the engine. Mine was "stripped" and I had to dremel it to get it out. I think I will have to bite the bullet and buy the engine mount pack this way I'll have 3 extra screws and washers.

Curious, today I was looking at my camber links and noticed it seems the front ones ALREADY have washers under the ball stud. I know Adam Drake built/inspected my kit, but everything so far has been according to the manual "General Setup." I have some washers on order (Losi #4's) to do the front hub and steering deal like Drake's setup.

Also, I came across a listing for the CRE conversion of the XXXNT by Trinity. It includes new CVD's, hubs, etc. What does it do? Is it worth getting??? Or will running the Drake setup essentially give a similar result? Just curious.

Thanks guys

Pete

[hypertech]

Nice thread !! Holy crap you all should pool some cash and make it a hardcover :)

Anyway I just got my XXX-NT a few weeks ago and am wondering about the tank pressure line and if I should move it up on the tank lid or if maybe I could install a oneway check valve ? I have noticed "some" fuel returning to the pipe through the pressure line. Also is there any suggestions for pressure line length you could pass my way ?

Someone suggested too that I should move the pipes pressure line location back away from stinger because it can cause a lean condition at speed ? Any thoughts on that one ??


Thanks.....

[cabbynate]

Pj, Diesel,

Associated part #2240. 5-40x7/16 F.H.S screws should do the trick. I have not came across the washers yet but when I do I will post where and who I get those from.

Hypertech,

I think that I read the pressure Line should be between 13-16 inchs long. Mine is 13 and it works fine. I have not moved the line to the cap yet as I have not had a problem with it yet.
I never though about using a one way check valve, maybe Aaron or Jim can help with that one?
Hope this helps.

Nate

[Nutter]

Originally posted by hypertech
Nice thread !! Holy crap you all should pool some cash and make it a hardcover :) LOL! :D Good idea, hehe :p


-Nutter

[hypertech]

Thanks Nate, will try 13 inches or so.

[cabbynate]

hypertech,

No problem. Pick up a packet ot two of those 5-40 screws too.
You will need them.;)

[losifreak2004]

Jim - Oh yeah? Well, I'm the practice National Champion, so there!

hydra - Anytime!

Raydee - Good to hear you like it!

flyboy - I know a few people that have HAD both trucks. They either sell the GT within a month because the Losi truck was that much easier to drive, or they sold the NT within three months because they couldn't keep from hitting stuff LOL

hypertech - An inch won't make a noticeable difference, but just for the record, I have 14 inches of fuel line on both of my trucks.

I have the pressure nipple on the top of the cap, with a 90 degree Ofna pressure fitting. This will stop the fuel from coming up the pressure line into the pipe (less unburnt fuel all over the place) and will keep the pressure more consistent, with less foaming.

A one way valve will not let excess pressure in the tank back into the pipe, such as after being hard on the throttle and then decelerating. This will either lead to too much fuel in the carb and causing the engine to gurgle and probably flood, or the tank lid will go POP!

Let me ask you something on the pipe subject....what did this guy do, seal the hole up and drill another one further down? LOL! Seriously, I've never heard anyone do that, and have no seen a pipe with the pressure line very far down from the stinger. Even if it did create a "lean" setting, moving it would richen things up, and you would have to re-tune the engine to be leaner anyway, and you just wasted a perfectly good pipe and did a lot of un-needed work! Good idea though.

Pete - HAHA! Adam must have built too many of his own kits, and just did that without thinking.

The CRE conversion is NOT for gas trucks! Not unless you run on an indoor, clay, smooth track would I even THINK about it.

Hardcover? Heck, this thread hasn't even graced the pages of RCCA! Maybe me and Jim could get together and write some articles for the mag?

Aaron

[INFERN06]

I run the CRE rear conversion on my truck and although I would rather have 1 deg. toe in hubs this set up is working alright and is way stronger than the stock hub carriers.The supplied CVD's are good and strong but they do not give you a proper bearing spacer for the space along the axle.:mad:
I would like a good proper spacer so I can lock the wheels down properly.

[Nutter]

Originally posted by losifreak2004
Hardcover? Heck, this thread hasn't even graced the pages of RCCA! Maybe me and Jim could get together and write some articles for the mag?Sure it has.. I've seen replies from you on this thread in the mag's 'Boardwalk' section. :) I do like that idea of you guys getting together for a series of articles though.. you really should pitch the idea to Steve! :D


-Nutter

[drdirt]

HA-HA, You guys tried to confuse me by making me register again. greetings one and all. My son and I are having more fun than the law allows racing on a dirt oval called ONTRAX in Browns Mills, N.J. Big speed and no jumps (on purpose) hehe. Jim

[DsWright]

Hey all, Im guessing by not seeing many posts here about it im one of the first to get a Drake Edition XXX-NT=)

Any recommendations from any of you long time XXX-NT'ers?

and this forum is HUGE! there a FAQ or referance page anywhere containing alot of the tips and tricks?

Be hearing alot from me soon, my track opens up on the 2nd=)

So i'll be looking for some tips, and reporting my progress=)

[2canSAM21]

Hello all,

I have a FT RC10GT right now and am looking at crossing over (shhh'). I have a ton of tires and rims for the RC10gt and was wondering if I could use these for the xxx-nt. I know the rears will work because of the little brace right under the roll pin on the axle, but I am not sure about the fronts. Thanks in advance.

[winning edge designs]

Hypetech,I recently went to the "modified" tank myself. It seems the two benifits are easier refueling,since the exhaust isn't in the tank while the lids open. And no bleed into the pipe after shutting off the engine,etc.

The mod is done with a 90 degree fitting for an undrilled pipe. Like those available from Cynamite,Hardcore,etc. Drill the correct size hole for yours,in the tanks lid. Then use a shock O-ring and some silicone to seal it when threading it into the lid. After thats set-up use a reamer or good exacto blade and make three small holes in the underside of the lid,so the exhaust can pressurize the tank. Also trim down the old pressure hole and fill it with a 4/40 screw and some silicone sealer on it's threads. I used a button head for appearance's sake,heh.

I needed NO carb adjustments on my truck with this mod,maybe because the pressure line is the same length(about 6 or 7 inches on mine) and the tap in the pipe is the same,etc. But it does seem to fill better,with less foaming during pit stops. Just remember it may not run as long upside down.( the main reason for the tanks origional design)................Jim

[winning edge designs]

Aaron, I have this long standing inside joke about being the fastest guy with two kids and a mortgage. Since Mark Pavidas has two and a mortage now,I have added a white S10 to my list,LMAO!.......If needed i'll add my new CBR600F4i!......ttyl,Jim

[hypertech]

Originally posted by losifreak2004
hypertech - An inch won't make a noticeable difference, but just for the record, I have 14 inches of fuel line on both of my trucks.

I have the pressure nipple on the top of the cap, with a 90 degree Ofna pressure fitting. This will stop the fuel from coming up the pressure line into the pipe (less unburnt fuel all over the place) and will keep the pressure more consistent, with less foaming.

A one way valve will not let excess pressure in the tank back into the pipe, such as after being hard on the throttle and then decelerating. This will either lead to too much fuel in the carb and causing the engine to gurgle and probably flood, or the tank lid will go POP!

Let me ask you something on the pipe subject....what did this guy do, seal the hole up and drill another one further down? LOL! Seriously, I've never heard anyone do that, and have no seen a pipe with the pressure line very far down from the stinger. Even if it did create a "lean" setting, moving it would richen things up, and you would have to re-tune the engine to be leaner anyway, and you just wasted a perfectly good pipe and did a lot of un-needed work! Good idea though.

Aaron


Okay so the oneway valve idea was silly...I give :o
I think thats what I'll do though.....move the pressure line to the tank lid, seems to be the best idea and seems to work for most sedans. I dunno what the logic was on the pipe pressure line location.....maybe it's felt that your pressure line could fall out your stinger ?? LOL !!

[bullett1818]

DsWright, how do u like the drake edition?? Whut engine did u get and all that fun stuff??? -BULLETT-

[Nutter]

Originally posted by DsWright
Hey all, Im guessing by not seeing many posts here about it im one of the first to get a Drake Edition XXX-NT=)*drool* Yes, you're the first person I've heard of to get it.. I've been checking Stormer Hobbies daily for its arrival! :D Not that my current NT doesn't have more hop-ups than the DE, but that's not the point; the DE has a sweet chassis, front brace, & tranny brace. :p

Any recommendations from any of you long time XXX-NT'ers?

and this forum is HUGE! there a FAQ or referance page anywhere containing alot of the tips and tricks?Yes, read every page of this thread! And as for the second question, no. It's a good idea though, maybe if I have several weeks spare.. hehe.

Be hearing alot from me soon, my track opens up on the 2nd=)Cool.. where abouts is it, what's it like (surface, design, layout, etc), is it a club, & what's the tracks name?

So i'll be looking for some tips, and reporting my progress=)Well, we're here.. especially losifreak, wed, purplerides, ...... :) Hope to hear more from you soon!

And congrats on the DE btw!


-Nutter

[losifreak2004]

Nutter - Really? I saw one of my answers to Travis on the XXXT thread, but never this one...

Thanks for the props! I didn't even need to plug that one myself LOL!

Jim - Would you wanna help write a hookup article for the XXX-NT? All we gotta do is twist Steve's arm...

I have competition on practice days. Whoever does better that day between me and my dad has to unload the truck when we get home. We also count to see how many CLEAN (LOL!) passes we can make on the other person in one run. When you get around the other person, pull over and let him go by, and then try again.

hypertech - It wasn't a silly idea, it definitely has merit. I've just seen people try it.

drdirt - No jumps? That's no fun! LOL

DsWright - There's SO MUCH information in this thread it couldn't possibly be re-created. If you don't feel like searching through it, just ask. It will get answered!

2cansam - I'm really not sure that either the fronts or the rears would fit. If they do, they will definitely be the wrong offset. I doubt AE fronts would fit over the Losi front hub carriers.

Did I cover everything?

Aaron

[INFERN06]

I think the rears would work fine but not sure about the associated front rims.

[DsWright]

Ok, im about 10 hours into assembly of my DE, not even a rolling chassis yet, taking my time and making SURE it's right=)

One thing i must say though, anyone useing graphite parts on a XXX-NT or a DE, MUST pilot the holes! OMG it is almost impossible if you don't pilot the holes! My DE kit supplied a special screw to pilot all of them though(thank god).

Biggest complaint so far, allen keys suck=) Looking into buying some better tools, any recommendations for the small sizes i need? I have stripped and cut down my allen keys i have gotten with the kit so many times with the dremel already there is like nothing left=)

I have some great metric tools, and larger hex sizes, but the 3 real small hex sizes the kit uses i can't find in any hardware store=(

It's late now though, so im getting some sleep, i'll work on it some more after work tomarrow. Should have it up and running by Wed if all goes well.


For those asking about my track, i don't have a whole lot of info yet, i raced onroad all last year, and they JUST finished the track im gonna go to on the 2nd, the 2nd is our tweak and tune day where they encourage all the racers to come out for free practice and unveil the new track. i can't wait=)

Im located just E of Cincinnati, OH. Anyone else close that may be at any local tracks?

[INFERN06]

If you can afford the MIP drivers get em Cuz they are gauranteed not to break or even the blue handled look alikes I think from Trinity.They carry the Kinwald name and I have heard they are great.

[NovakXXXNT]

I use Trinitys they are great!

http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL83/535002/772329/9627276.jpg

[dkj-M3]

Your talking about Dirt Country. I'm gonna try & make it there if the weather holds up. I live about 3hrs away.

Well, for the sizes of the wrenches they are .05", 1/16", 5/64" & 3/32"

C-ya there, Darrell

oh yeah, get some losi reptile reds or pro-line M3 bow-ties tires.

[Nutter]

DsWright: I swear Hudy hex wrenches are the best thing since sliced bread.. but others swear by MIP Thorp hex's, others by this brand and that.. basically just stick to a major R/C brand and you shouldn't have any problems. I stripped a $25 set of hex wrenches within 2 days, but since buying Hudy's I havn't stripped a single wrench or screw.. they're definately worth the money.
It truely is a sin to be assembling a kit like the DE, MFE, or KE with hex keys.. :p


-Nutter

[HYDRAMATIC99]

I second Nutter, the hudy tools are great.

[Kritter626]

The Hudy tools are awesome. My first set of good wrenches and I like them a lot.

I am having trouble with my rear end packing up in the rough under high speed. The track I run on is really beat up in all the straights and I can't seem to get the back to hold still. I am running red springs in the back with 40 wt stock pistons,and the collars are about .75" down. The shock is on the outermost shocktower mount and the innermost on the arm mount. I realize the more horizontal the more stability but I feel this is due to travel. The front I have orange with 30wt and the collars all the way up which gives a good amount of dive on braking and helps a lot with steering. I am not sure if maybe my back is too stiff or if it does not have enought travel for the high speed rough straights. Out of the corners it does not squat too much because if I get on it hard enough it will wheelie out of the corners. Traction is great, but I jsut dont like coming into the sweeper off the straight away and not being able to control the truck becasue my rear is hoppidy hop hoppin. LEt me know what you guys think.

I also am having trouble keepin her runnin. I knwo you guys say that it's too lean and I heard that for a week now but if I fatten it up on the low end it runs like crap so I lean it until she pulls hard off the bottom. It seems that I can't get a full tank of gas through it until the last run of the day and it frustrates me. Lately the weather has been fluctuating so much I think that might have something to do with it. I get it tuned for 85+ degrees and then I take it out again and it's 70 degrees and runs like arse, so I tune it again but it still does not seem to run right and sounds funny to me. I took it into the tuner in the shop and he said it was tuned good and should run fine, but it doesn't. I am wondering how long an air filter should last and if that has might be effecting it. I use the foam filters and I use the AE filter oil. The dirt seems to get caked on there pretty fast but I do not really know how much air these things need so I just take off the layer of dirt and keep runnin. I am not sure if it is an airfilter problem or what. I was also told it had no air leaks so that ruled that out.

Let me kno wha tyou guys think.

[NItro-Smoke]

What is the part number for the Losi 1-deg. hubs?

Also, I have a set of ther Dynamite red handle hex wrenches and they have held up very well for me and I use them often, just thought I would pass that on..

[XXXtacy]

1. Does anyone make ball bearing bellcranks for the 3xnt
(looking all over, can't seem to find any)
2. The Trinity-Kinwald bulkhead...is it just the bulkhead or does it
come with the kickplate too(like the Losi pkg)? Any info on
the Kinwald stuff on the web(like pics etc?) All I've found
on the web are STORMER HOBBIES' pages, which really
don't have any info.

Thanks, Y'all, for all the great info!

[winning edge designs]

Aaron,I would love to do something like that. But I think in all honesty someone like Adam Drake,or Matt Francis is better off doing it,no? I kind of relate it to a guy in the bush series giving advice,rather then Earnhardt,or Gordon,imo...LOL!


Kritter626,if you need a suspension that is more "compliant" in the rough,you'll need to go to lighter rear shock oil. I run 40wt with a 55,or even a 54 piston on rough tracks. The only time i'd recommend 40 wt with 56's(stock) is on tracks that are fairly smooth,with BIG jumps!

On your tune-up woes,keep in mind that a change in air temp,from 85,to 70 on the same day is rare,except going into nightfall. But if a change happens,the required adjustments might be 2 or 3 clicks on the high end only...usually. Setting the low end for power is the right way to do it,but if you go too lean,you will have a truck that surges over jumps(wwiiiiirrrrrrrrrrrrr) and idles erratically,stall,etc. You can actually go too lean and lose power,on the bottom, before making it bad enough to cause stalling,etc. As far as your air cleaner goes,I usually don't sweat a layer or dust or dirt,but clean it with a brush before the next heat. At the end of each race I clean the prefilter and relube it with air filter oil. Should be fine.......................Are you running a Picco engie,or carb? You seem to be explaining the kind of symptoms they give,tuff to keep in tune with no changes,etc?.......Jim

[winning edge designs]

Nitro,the part number for the 1 degree XXX hubs is A9807. Remember on the NT truck they can go on both ways,right on right side adds toe,using them backwards as in the manual removes toe-in.

XXX-tacy,TeamLosi has a bearing kit,to replace the stock bushings. The part # is A6912...................Jim

[hypertech]

I just picked up some of Losi's Razor Rib front tires and I kinda feel like a dick asking this but is there any particular way that they should be mounted on the rim since the normal rib count is odd\even on either side of the 2 wider ribs ?

[Kritter626]

jim: so you only lube the prefilter?

[cabbynate]

Dooooooo!!!!!!!!

[Lord Radeon]

WEll jim i switched to the mccoy plug with 2 washers and all i can say is jeeeeeeeeeez! The engine was maknig INSANE power at ~195-200 degrees... i'm talking it was revving and whining so loud, moreso than i've ever heard before from ANY .12 engine... the thing was flying on the street... just plain incredible. Now I'm starting to wonder what happens if i lean it to 250 degrees... LOL! Thanks for the advice

chris

[renegaderc]

I've got some 1 deg hubs on the way, but do I want to run MORE or LESS toe? This thing has tons of toe in stock already, do I really want to add more for more rear traction?

[Nutter]

Originally posted by XXXtacy
2. The Trinity-Kinwald bulkhead...is it just the bulkhead or does it come with the kickplate too(like the Losi pkg)? Any info on the Kinwald stuff on the web(like pics etc?) All I've found on the web are STORMER HOBBIES' pages, which really don't have any info.It is only the bulkhead.

Originally posted by renegaderc
I've got some 1 deg hubs on the way, but do I want to run MORE or LESS toe? This thing has tons of toe in stock already, do I really want to add more for more rear traction?Generally you'd want more.. the stock rear pivot block is 2 degrees, and adding the 1 degree rear hubs will put that up to 4 degrees.


-Nutter

[Racin Rev]

hypertech, you want the slanty parts on the outside and the plain ribs on the inside.

[Kritter626]

Where can I get some black wheels for my truck? I don't like the green, the red looks like pink, and the white get too dirty too quick. My LHS is huge dotn ahve any wheels that will fit it. I knwo AE makes black but the offset looked off adn the bore looked too small.

[winning edge designs]

Hypertech,it just so happens I know the designer of those tires,:)! he suggests running them with the two single ribs side outside and the single rib(spaced wider between ribs)inside. For most tracks. But try em both ways and you may find you like it the other way. They seem to work best on wet or grooved track to me. For sandy tracks I still like the directionals.


Kritter,I lube everything with a two stage foam filter. But after doing it this way you'll only have to clean the outside peice. The inner will stay like "butta"!


Lord,haha,sweet,now you can see where carb restrictors are needed,LOL!


renegaderc,I use them to add one degree. Believe it or not added toe-in will also add turn in steering as well as forward traction. The only time i'd remove toe-in is on Very hooked up tracks,or very bumpy ones. This (less toe-in)would settle the truck down on turn entry,reduce wheelies on exit and add top speed,potentially!

Kritter,I run yellow wheels for more forward traction,the white wheels seem to add some side bite,LOL....."inside joke". But yellow wheels are the ticket for me,stay cleaner looking and almost every paintjob has some yellow?....................Jim

[diesel757]

kritter; buy the white wheels and buy some black rit dye and make them black.

the pressure fitting mod is great. less foaming and less worries of the pressure line coming off.

[diesel757]

what engine/pipe are most of you guys running? I'm running a RB X-12 rear exhaust w/custom manfold and a RB pipe. :)

[DsWright]

Got the DE out and running today.

First off, i must say WOW!

She is definatly built to race, no slop or flex in suspension at all, very smooth, and VERY fast.

Gonna get it out on the track for some practice laps soon, so i can tune it up a bit more.


Couple questions......

I had a hudy setup system for my onraods, what does offraod need? i can't imagine something that elaborate will be necessary.. any reccomendations and places where i can buy them?

Also, im running a CR-V, if anyone else is running one, what pipe you running? The DE pipe fits it well, but im considering trying my paris ring.

[diesel757]

finally 100 posts....well 101..heh..heh:D

[diesel757]

DsWright:
one of the guys I race with runs a ring pipe with a cv-r. seems to be a good combo for our track.

[diesel757]

wow, the drake edition. I can feel the drool running down my chin.lol:D

[cabbynate]

I run the new Trinity Picco .12 speed and the MIP header and AE pipe and like it so much I went out and got another Picco for a spair.:D

[losifreak2004]

Ds - I'm running the older GTX pipe with my CV-R. I also like the AE pipe with that motor however, and the blue Trinity pipe when there's more traction.

Offroad needs a simple camber and toe-in gauge. Anything else is pretty much overkill.

Jim - It's possible. Adam writes for Xtreme, so that's out of the question. Besides, he's taught me everything he knows! (The driving thing seems like it's up to me LOL.....I'm workin on that....)

I've never heard anyone taking out rear toe (Nutter: Stock block has 3, your fingers must have hit the 2 again!) and I have too heavy of a trigger finger to need LESS traction LOL.

Aaron

[dkj-M3]

If you want to dye the wheels black, you will also need the navy blue rit dye, b/c the black will come out more like a dark brown. I use the liquid rit dye(works better), & old pot. Pour in the black dye & add water. Let simmer for 2 hrs. Rinse the wheels off with cold water. Now they should look dark brown. If you want'em darker, dump the black dye & use the navy blue, throw'em back in & do the same steps. It works with any color Losi wheel.

They should be soft to the touch & taste delicious. Mmmhhhh. LOL

My truck looks tight, with a hard blackout look. I dyed other stuff on my truck too, including the springs & spur gear black. Wish I had the Drake chassis.

Watch out for the splashes!:eek:

[dkj-M3]

I'm going there for Memorial Day weekend, & want to run my electric & gas trucks.

Thanks Darrell

[diesel757]

WED;
I finally got a chance to try out the setup that you posted a while back. I really don't know how well it would have worked because I choose the wrong tire. After changing to a softer spring the truck started to hook up a little better. then someone recommended that i run step pins, and this made a big difference. started to pull wheelies. So I stuck with the springs that i had on there. finished second in the b-main and bumped up to a-main and finished dead last, dead receiver pack. so this weekend i hope to find the right set up for my track. thanks again and I will let you know how it worked.

rob

[losifreak2004]

I got two days of Hemet racing this weekend, and a track day on Friday....woo hoo!

PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE!

Aaron

[Scrad]

DS, I run a Dynamite Competition pipe and header on my CV-R. I thought the kit pipe was too cheesy and I the Dynamite off of my Ultima when I traded it. It gives good power in every band high, low, ect. Plus it's real smooth and that pipe is nice and quiet. Which is good if you live in apartments like I do... I also noticed that if the pressure line was too short it would suck gas and not give good power.
I've got a pleasure pipe myself, but I haven't put it on since the Dynamite one is working good for me... Let me know what you think of yours if you put it on.

[DsWright]

Scrad- "Pleasure Pipe" LOL ribbed for your pleasure i guess? =)


I tried my Ring pipe, and i noticed very little differance from my DE pipe, think im gonna stick with the DE pipe, it has a great mix of low and midrange power, yet revs high. You just have to take your time and "Tune" your tuned pipe to get it running sweet on a CV-R.

Where is the best place to buy a nicely priced yet not super cheesy camber/toe guage?

And also, if any of you shop online for losi parts where do you recommend?

And for a first time racer (offroad anyway, raced onroad last year) what is recommended besides different tire sets to take to the track? This includes most often broken parts, tuning parts, ect.

Just looking for a general idea, i have about a week to get what i need before track opens up=) Next sunday is a "tweak and Tune" day where i have like all day to get my truck dialed in, and i want to have it hooked by time i leave=)

[dkj-M3]

Front & rear arms, ball studs, rear tower, spindles & hubs, ball cups, battery box & turnbuckles (Titanium does break, like when you land sideways & a 1/8 buggy lands on top of you, CRUNCH). Although, I've never broken a shock tower or a rear arm.

Just take it easy until you get the rhythm of the track & you should be okay.

I might not make it to Dirt Country on the 2nd, but I should be there for the 1st race day.
Peace \/ Darrell

[Kritter626]

What is a Losi email or number where I can actually get a response? I have tried and i get no response...i know they are close to me so should i just drive over there?

I have the RTR which is does not have much RTR left but I cant get this motor to run worth a dam. I have re-tuned it 3 times now and it jsut will not run for a full tank. I fatten it up and it runs like crap and dies so I lean it a bit and it still doesnt rip off the bottom end...and it dies, the only way I can be effective is to keep up the RPMs so it doesnt have to re-rev out and that is not the easiest to do on a small track. Does any body have a certain number of turns out it should be as a guide for me on top and bottom? I am getting frustrated more then before. It seems like it dies in the corners so it is when I am not on the gas, I also have the idle screw all the way in because if not it will die every time I use the brake and then I adjust the idle with the radio. I only have a little over a gallon through it.

Another thing I noticed is when I put resistance against the car so it cannot move forward...it does not spin the wheels it tries to but it doesnt. I think it is because the bottom end is so crappy but I though I might ask if that may be a diff. problem

[cabbynate]

DsWright,
You can get Losi parts from www.stormerhobbies.com And RACEtech motor sports sell a good camber/toe-in gauge.Part #9006. They go for about $30.00.

[igozoom]

Hi all, haven't been here much as I have been working on tightening up the honeydo list before my wife is forced to exercise her right to uncork on my a$$. hehehe

Purchased two of the native racing bat box's. Too sweet !!! My Drake will be here Monday ! I will let everyone know how it works out from a newbys perspective.

DsWright - I have only been racing about 6 months , local level. Start with recommendation above. I have cooked clutch bearings, broken rear a arms, rear shock tower, bent rims, and destroyed a body; but then my driving skills are pathetic. If you have a lttle money to invest, every time you replace a broken part, buy two. Before long , you will find that you have a nice parts selection and can typically deal with any fiasco between heats. Finally, someone on this thread recommended a seperate tranny. I can't tell you how nice it is to cook a diff, then plug in the old standby, to rebuild original at your leisure. I only had to do it once; and that was all it took to make me feel real good about the investment.

Tarvey - thanks for nothing. You come down to teach me how to airbrush, three people see the body you painted, and they all want me to paint bodies for them.lol. Never saw that one coming.
That Rossi you have just sitting around sure would look good in my Drake !!! hahaha.Seriously, thanks for all your help.

[dkj-M3]

I've e-mailed Drake & he answered back the next day. It could be that they are in Africa for the big race. (I think)

[Racin Rev]

Kritter626

You might try calling them on the phone. They can be a little slow with the E Mails (too much volume, not enough time.)

From what you describe though, I think that you have worn out your motor. How much fuel have you put through it? how lean are you running?

what you describe are the classic symptoms. the fix is a new piston and sleeve. call Horizon they will send them to you but not for free.

The other problem sounds like a loose slipper, clutch, or diff. do you know how to check these? You should hope that it is the slipper because the diffs are more expensive. I have yet to see a xxxnt rtr that has had the diff properly adjusted, and that includes the factory built models.

[winning edge designs]

Kritter,I think because of the worlds and two being so close together they will be a little behind. Off-road and On-road worlds took up alot of thier time in south africa. They should be in by now,or tuesday latest I think(monday holiday).

Aaron,sounds good to me. If any of the mags or a book company have some interest maybe we could put an article together. Something explaining all the tricks at the club level? Making it in readabel language unlike some of the suspension books,haha............Jim

[Exterminator]

Wow almost 100 pages of great info on the NT.

Anyone just coming into this hobby like me would do well to read this forum before assembling a Kit.
I have used tips from this forum on my MFE and NT.

So I'd just like to say thank you to everyone for helping me become a better Tuner/tweaker/racer/RCnut.

Thanks
Tim W.
:D

[Kritter626]

I am pretty sure my diff is dialed. I redid it with the carbide balls and tightened after the first few minutes. It may be the slipper plates but it doesnt slip out of the corners...what I was referring too is that it jsut does not have the power to get the wheels spinning when there is an opposing force large enough like my foot in front of it for example but I see other trucks that will jsut throw a fat roost and go.

I popped off the head and the cylinder is not scored but towards the upper part of the bore it has a blackish color, the piston looks decent. One thing I noticed is that it loses a lot of compression when it heats up but it will return to normal within 5 minutes...the temp does not go over 230 because I use a water test evertime I bring it in from stalling and the water jsut sits there for about 1-2 minutes.

I was thinking it was my motor but people are tellin me they get 5 gallons out of there motor so I figured since I only have a little more then a gallon I should be ok. WHen they say 5 gallons are people referring to rebuilding it in between and then the whole motor is trash after 5 gallons or are they talking about 5 gallons per rebuild?

What is Drakes email? email me privatly if you dont want to post it

mailto:kris@dmsrace.com

As for adjsuting everything else on the car I know how to do everything but that does not matter if I cant get the dam thing to run!!!

I also jsut got a motor saver (I think thats what its called) air filter. THe guy said it was the best thing since sliced bread , but it seems to bind my linkage on braking...are there different boots available for theese? Do I run a prefilter with this? I bought a 10 pack of refillable foams so I figure even if I dont have a prefilter I can swap em out every couple days at the track.

[winning edge designs]

Kritter,alot of guys i've talked to say they get 4 or 5 gallons of fuel as well,I haven't been able top. Although I find my engines will run that long,the usefull "as new" power life is about two gallons,Three at the most usually. Of course if you keep new air filters on your engine and run a little on the "fat" side,i'm sure 5 would be no problem,but it would be tuff to compete with the fast guys here that way. Some use a new engine every big race(about one new engine every two months!).
The motor saver filter is good,but be carefull on sandy,dusty tracks,use a pre-filter around it for insurance. Some have had dust pass between the two sections,if not oiled well enough,or drying out a little. Basically it's fine with good maintenance......I use one too,Jim

[winning edge designs]

Almost forgot,you can E mail "the Drake" thru the TeamLosi site in the contact the drivers section...........I think it's something like Adrake@teamlosi.com,or something similar?..........Jim

[postalmal]

I'm a complete newbie to nitro and I NEED help. I have a XXXNT sport that I can't seem to keep started. I noticed alot of fuel coming from the pipe, and the pull start doesn't seem to catch every time. What could be causing this problem?

[Karlos Fandango]

Diesel, another RB X12 here. I'm using the RB pipe and a somewhat modifed RB manifold (hammer etc!!).

I haven't dare race anywhere yet, so its more a time of testing and getting used to things. One thing I have noticed is the lack of front end grip. I'm only using the stock truck but its proving a little tricky to turn. The worrying part is that the engine is only runing on 10% nitro, fairly rich and its still pulling wheelies with the slipper looser than normal:eek:

Whats a quick method to improve the front end grip with a standard truck. Over steer is proving to be as rare as rocking horse **** which has surprised me hugely.

Finally, do any of you have a bash on car parks just for fun, if so what tyres are good for this.

Cheers all, and as mentioned earlier, this thread and forum has proved extremely handy for all us newbie and info hunters alike.

Karl

[cabbynate]

Well Karlos,
You could try some A spacers in the front shocks. Also are your front arm level after you drop the truck from 2 feet off the ground?
Losi makes some street tires for there trucks premounted on rims. You can get them from www.stormerhobbies.com. Also maybe you may go down to a lighter front shock oil too.
Good luck with it.
Cabby:)

[winning edge designs]

postalmal,It sounds like your new engine may be "too" rich. Try turning in the high needle one half turn. Loosen the glow plug a couple turns and pull on the starter cord a few times,while being carefull of fuel coming from cylinder. Then try restarting the engine after tightening the glow plug. The engine should fire,but it's important to remember to turn the high needle back out a bit after it does. Possibly the full half turn back out,or at least 1/4 turn. Use the radio's thottle trigger,or throttle trim, to keep the engine at a higher then idle but steady speed. Basically you'll want the engine very warm,but not hot during break in. I've had best luck running in at a temp close to race temps,between 170-200 degrees. In my experience an engine broken in cold,then ran hotter,will have suffered too much clearance wear from cold running in.................These things wear the parts to each other at better then machined tolerances. And they are very sensitive to temperature for clearances. Too cold,wears too much since it's too tight. Too hot and material damage is possible. If you don't have a temp gun a drop of saliva on the head near it's center will get you in the ballpark,since water boils at 212,sizzling is too hot,lays on the head without steaming much,too cold,etc.........Drop in if any other questions,Jim

[hambone]

Karlos if your running in real short grass in a backyard for example:

thats what I run mostly and here's what I did:

Put Pink springs on the rear (these are a little on the light side)
Red Springs on the front.
Put Losi Dirtspec tires (the Blue ones) on both front and rear.
What a difference from stock!

I can let her rip, she'll power slide around a corner and I can mash on it the straight and handle corner at allot higher speed.

this is backyard mind ya, holes dips, an a fence I argue with from time to time.

hope this helps.

[INFERN06]

What an awesome race day we had today.I managed to finish first in our A main of 4 gas trucks (low turn out) after lapping the field by the three minuit mark of a 10 minuit race.That is not what i am stoked over,it was the way I had won.
At about three minuits in i cased the front end into the third bump out of a tripple breaking the front right arm off but the linkage was holding the wheel to the truck.So I dragged it about for a lap till my pit man called me in to pop it off so I stopped for fuel at the same time.My lap times dropped from 19.0 average to 24.0 average while second place was doing 21.0 average.It did not take too long for second and third to catch and pass me but third place misjudged his pit time due to the confusion of a three wheel truck almost keeping pace with his truck and he flamed out not able to restart for a minuit and a half or so from overheating.
Second place was keeping ahead of me and was about to go a lap up when he flamed out unexpectedly from ....yup ran out of fuel as well.He was back in within three laps but I got my lap back now and went up two laps.
Second place had falen to third and was pushing himself hard now at the 7 minuit mark but not gaining any time due to misteaks and spins.I finished the main two laps ahead of second and third,accepted a prize from a very suprised race director and some heavy congradulations from fellow racers for keeping it on the track on such a loamy and bumpy terrain.:D

[PJCruz]

Guys, I am in the process of tearing down my truck for the first time and cleaning and maintaining it. Also, as I put everything together I am setting it up as Adam Drake's Dirt setup. Ihave the optional rear hubs, springs, shock spacers, etc. As usual, I have some questions for you more experienced offroaders out there...

*WHen rebuilding the rear shocks, should I rebuild the "cartridge" also, or should it last a rebuild or two? The shock oil was a lovely BLACK when I got into it. I"m guessing that's road grime that's gotten in from the shock shaft over time. I bought a set of "SHOCK BOTEEZE" (basically little sleeves to cover the shocks).. I assume these would help keep the shock/shaft cleaner making for less frequent rebuilds? Comments?

* The rear hubs have me a touch confused. I have both the 1 and 2 deg hubs. Now, if I install them one way, they add a deg of toe in to the rear, but if I swap sides they remove a deg of toe in from the pivot block? WHich way does what? I am wanting to add one more deg (4 total).

* I have developed a wobble in one tire in each of two pairs of rear tires. Is it possible to have "warped" the wheel? I generally don't hit stuff.. too hard anyways.. and have hardly broken stuff. Is it possible they have gone "out of balance?" If they are.. how can I check the balance to correct it with out getting the Matt Francis alum balancer? Any home tricks out there?

* I couldn't find the screw diff set I needed for my NT. It's part # A-2909. I did find A-2910 which is the "same set" but for the NT Sport kit. Same screw and everything EXCEPT it doesn't use the concave washers.. it has a spring. Is the spring better, worse, no difference? My LHS told me the distributer no longer had a listing for the 2909 part. Does the Drake kit use the spring also?

* Lastly, what do you guys do for changing crystals at the track. I have seen the mod for the rec box using the plug.. but it would seem that the rec is too far IN to reach the crystal from the side. I know it's only two screws but that's time better spent doing other stuff. =)

Sorry for the questions, I am prepping my truck for another race on June 15th. =) I only get to race once about every 2 months or so.. so I want to be ready =)

Thanks again
Pete

[INFERN06]

If you have not done the shocks in a while and they are black inside then ya it would be a good idea to redo the seals,and maybe consider nitride coated shafts as well.
Shock boots are a plus that keeps large chunks of dirt and stuff from the shafts but fine stuff can still get in there so clean under them often.You may not need to rebuild as often depending on the surface you race on.If it is dusty then rebuild as often but if it is damp or moist dirt then not as often.

Temporarily install the hubs on an arm and see how much angle or "toe is visible (you should notice a difference if you put a square to it or even by eye).This would be the easiest way.

I have found that Tires on the truck like the Losi can become out of balance due to moisture collecting inside of the tyre.Since there are holes in the rim into the tire to allow air to escape either way water will also find a way in there as well.To remedy this make a 1/8or a bit smaller hole in the center of the tyre(middle of the tread) and another 180 deg. from that hole.When the tyre spins it will release any moisture inside the wheel.If after the water has dissipated from the wheel there is still a balance issue then a balancer would do the trick.I use a Du Bro pro balancer.

Not sure about the diff part and if the Drake kit uses it altho it would be nice to know if there was a running change to the tranny I should upgrade to.

I use a XXL rx and it sits perfectly inside of the box with the "plug mod" right above the xtal.It does work great if you can find a way to mount the rx in a way that the plug will work.remember the plug does not have to go on top of the box.If you have an rx with the xtal pointing towards the side of the truck when mounted then put the plug there.And if reaching the xtal is still difficult use tweezers.(I knew there was a practical use for them:) )

No problem helping a fellow racer.Enjoy your truck and by all means just have fun.

[Kritter626]

I saw your comment on crystals and I just found out that my Futaba crystals work like a champ in my JR radio. I have channel 46 so I never have to worry about any body else on my channel because I think they only go to the low 60s

[winning edge designs]

Pj,it looks like the guys are helping you out very well. The onlything I would add is that the truck wheels do get "tweaked" in crashes. It doesn't take much either,just the way it hits,rather then how hard. Even bottoming out on Big jumps can do the warped wheel deal sometimes. All truck wheels have a similar problem,so keep an eye on em and remember you can twist them back,close to proper shape for all but the biggest races.

I've used Futaba crystals in my M8 on occasion,they are Much cheaper,but also don't seem to live as long in a gas racing enviornment?....Also,only the 27 band channels are interchangable from Futaba to Airtronics,not sure about JR(must work if they did for you kritter?)...:).....Jim

[drdirt]

hi guys; does anybody know of a company that manufactures aluminum suspension arms for a xxxnt? thanks, jim

[br5]

Are there anybody running the omega xt 12 or could tell me any thing about it.I dont want to put it on my xxxnt if its not worth having.o yea its bump start not pull start.

[cabbynate]

br5,
I think it is a Picco base engine. it should be fast as nuts!!!!!:)

[andy51289]

Here are some pics of my truck getting ready for the Watermelon Classic 7 Warmup race this weekend!

http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?selected=41428

[andy51289]

Who else is going to be there? Lord Radeon? Wilson10? WED? All you guys race in my region...

[winning edge designs]

I wont make the wram up race,but i'm trying for the watermelon race! Manager at my shop is a real **ithead! I'm lucky to get to race twice a month at most,usually once. And that will be my only weekend off,so much for family time!........Hopefully i'll make it though,I do have off for the RC Pro race in Aiken!.......Jim

[TyroneShoelaces]

Anybody out there use Progressive shocks or piggyback reservoirs on their losi's?
I'm having some trouble building this used set I bought, can't figure out how to bleed them correctly and nobody seems to have any tips for me...

Everywhere I have seen a picture of these shocks, they are mounted with the reservoir to the outside of the truck, I'm just curious if it will hamper performance if I mount them like this since there's not enough body clearance on the NT.

http://members.shaw.ca/tyroneshoelaces/progressive.jpg

[PJCruz]

Thanks for all the help guys. As always you are all a trememdous source of info.

I'll rebuild the shocks and look into the wheel tweak. I still have a set of good wheels/tires that came unglued that isn't tweaked.. so that will be set #1. I'll look at my other sets and see about getting it all fixed.


Thanks again
Pete

[INFERN06]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by TyroneShoelaces
[B]Anybody out there use Progressive shocks or piggyback reservoirs on their losi's?
I'm having some trouble building this used set I bought, can't figure out how to bleed them correctly and nobody seems to have any tips for me...

Everywhere I have seen a picture of these shocks, they are mounted with the reservoir to the outside of the truck, I'm just curious if it will hamper performance if I mount them like this since there's not enough body clearance on the NT.

[QUOTE]
To get them right take the clip out of the end of the resevoir and the closed cell foam with the retainer as well.With the res off of the shock body fill it to the top and then some,screw on the res cap and push the plunger in while turning the entire shock 180 degrees so the top is at the bottom.Do this so that the small air hole in the cap is always in the up position while turning.If you have done it correctly then the shock will be in fully by the time the shock is upside down.
Now add oil to the res cap from the open end (where the clip goes in) fill it up while extending the shock till it is 3/4 full.Insert the closed cell foam piece and the aluminum retainer.There should be no air in the shock at all.Install the retaining clip and enjoy awesome shocks.

[TyroneShoelaces]

Inferno6: That's what the instructions say to do, and I followed them exactly. You're right, there's absolutely NO air in the shocks. The problem I'm having is that they're overpressurized, so much so that I can't even push the shafts all the way in. I need to bleed some oil out of them or something, but if I do so, none of them will have equal pressure...

EDIT: Actually, your instructions differ slightly at the end there...
Their instructions say to put in the foam piece, then fill it up and put the cap on. Maybe there won't be quite as much oil in there if I try your way. Thanks for the help man!

[INFERN06]

I wonder if you may need new foam pieces inside the res.If the shocks are used then it may be possible but if new then it could be the amount of oil.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

can u buy piggyback reservoirs at hobby stores? or do u hav to order dem?

[DR.GT]

I just followed the instructions and no problems whatever. After the shock body is full and reservoir screwed on and inverted (no air inside) I filled to about 1/2 way in the reservoir and pumped the shock shaft up and down to make sure again no air is inside (be careful not to allow air in). I then put the foam in and made sure it was in to the bottom of the reservoir and filled with oil to the top. Then I put the end cap inside (had to push down on it hard and hold it down) and secured the clip. ( its messy but works excellent). All the shock shafts rebound all the way back out as the instructions state they should.

:)

[TyroneShoelaces]

I thought the same thing about the foam and used new pieces instead, but it gave the same result.
My shocks rebound all the way back out too, but I can't push the shafts all the way in, can you DR.GT?

[russp]

So I just upgraded to titanium turnbuckles and RPM ball cups...however the ball cups are so tight they are causing my suspension to bind (the a-arms are not moving freely.) Does anyone have a solution for this or should I just snap them on as they are and let them break in naturally?

Thanks

[INFERN06]

JR makes a ball cup tool.It is made for the heli stuff they make to free the linkages on heli's.It would work nice for ya.Check Horizon for it.

[TyroneShoelaces]

When I switched to RPM ballcups I had the same problem... The guy at RPM just told me to pop them off and on a few times, work the suspension a bit, then just drive it. They loosened up in no time.

[DR.GT]

Tyroneshoelaces:

Yes, my shocks work perfectly

:):)

[Nutter]

One way to loosen up tight rod ends is to squeeze them a little while they're ON the ball studs. This will bend the inside slightly and loosen them up nicely.


-Nutter

[cabbynate]

Hay,
Did you guys see that Losi is going to make an Aluminum Top Shaft for the XXX-NT? Do ya think putting one in would be a smart move? I wonder if they would ware out fast? What the heck, when they come out, I'm throughing one in!!!! http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[DR.GT]

I can see needing one on electric trucks but my NT with a MT.12 and Rossi pipe has no need for it. Heck, I have enough trouble as it is to put the power down cleanly and a light top shaft would be another obstacle to achieving this. I also think the aluminum will wear much faster causing more rebuilds sooner. I really doubt you'd be able to tell the difference with the 1+ HP. engines other than making driving harder.

:)

[andy51289]

Hey I was supposed to have the 100th post! After all I started this thread!! LOL J/K!!

[tHe cOokIe]

how fast would the xxxn-t go with the associated .15?

[diesel757]

probably(sp) as fast as a gt with a ae .15

[winning edge designs]

I've never seen piggybacks on any losi trucks,but I have heard they make a complete replacement shock,that allows thier reservoirs to be used on the truck. While I don't think the reservoir shocks,or the add on peices themselves are bad,I prefer to run the TeamLosi threaded shocks myself. They seem like the most consistant and easiest to use available. It's hard for me to justify the added 2 or 3 ounces in wieght(and $60 or so)for a 1/8th ounce more oil per shock?,jmo.


Cabbynate,as someone posted,it would only add to wheelspin in a gas truck to try and lower the rotating mass,heh. But,if you really want one,the part number is the same as the XX/T,XXX/T,it is A-9930. Just keep an eye on gear wear and tear. Use a little white grease on the teeth as well as around the case joint to help seal the case for longer gear life.............Jim

[cabbynate]

Thanks for The input Jim.
I just rebilt my tranny an I forgot the white grease!!
Dooooo!!!! Well I though there was a new part no. for the top shaft A9931?:confused:

[PJCruz]

I was wondering if any of you guys had any recommendations on the shock rebuilding. I am trouble getting the oil in and keeping it smooth without air. I replaced the o rings, cleaned it all out, and changed to the Red piston witht he .12 spacers on the front. But when I add the oil (just past the threads on the inside), and lower the cartidge in, some oil leaks out.. then tighten it a turn or so.. then push the piston in and tighten it.. when I'm done the shaft will "suck" into the shock if I extend it all the way. I never had trouble building shocks before (touring cars and a T3) and have always had the shock shafts "push out" slightly to about half way out if pushed all the way in.

Any suggestions? There's no bladder or anything. These are the stock Losi XXXNT shocks/bodies. Thanks

Pete

PS: I am using 30 wt in the front and 40 in the rear.

[Snobot1]

Hey guys, I'm pretty new to this. I had an NTC3 for about 2 months then got bored with it, so I went out yesterday and got an XXXNT Drake. I got pretty far building it last night and then I looked at the front page of the intructions, where it said it was not built for pull start engines. DOes that mean that the engine i pulled out of my ntc3 is no good, or can I do something to that to make it fit. Like I said, Im pretty new to this, so I hope this isnt a stupid question. Thanks guys.

[tarvymoto]

you probable just nee the Manifold and Engine mounts from the Standard XXXNT

[andy51289]

PJCruz: You are using too much shock oil... Here's what to do:


Unassemble Shock
Dispose of used shock oil
Clean Shock body with motor spray or denatured alchohol
Fill shock body with oil SLOWLY
Fill it just up to the bottom of the threads in the inside of the body
SLOWLY put cartridge/shaft into body with cartridge touching the piston
Rotate Cartridge two full turns SLOWLY
Push shaft in VERY VERY VERY slowly. Shock oil will leak out no matter how slowly!
Tighten cartridge all the way and make snug with Shock tools or pliers :eeek:
VIOLA!


When the shaft is pushed all the way down after the shock is assembled, it should rise only about 1/8 to 1/4 inches. If it goes up more, it means that your shock seals are pretty new. Don't worry about it. Just continue to put the spring on. It will wear in.




ALL: I'm off to Aiken, SC for the Watermelon Classic Warmup!

[DR.GT]

PJ Cruz:

When I do my shocks they do the same thing ( suck back in a bit). That is ok. My understanding that this is completely normal for losi shocks. When I had my GT the shocks would only rebound out so I was a bit concerned when this happenned to me the first time with losi shocks( I thought ,"geez what a idiot, I can't even build shocks properly after 10 years in this hobby LOL")

:D

[cabbynate]

PJ, Read this. It will tell you all you need to know.

WWW.rc411.com Go to how to's and look up shock rebuilds.
nate http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[winning edge designs]

TeamLosi shocks always have a small amount of air in them,otherwise the shaft would never compress into the shock. When you push the shaft in by hand during assembly,your bleeding out enough oil to allow the shaft to displace that space. So during extension the oil is actually causing a vacuum to form in the shock,which pulls the shaft back in a bit. This only means your cartride is sealing well and doing it's job. If the shaft doesn't extend about 1/4 inch,after compression and return about 1/4 inch after extension the cartridge is either leaking or binding. Even then it's more important that the shocks feel and act similiar from right to left,then how much they extend,etc. Anyone who's biult some different brands of shocks will tell you the TeamLosi shocks are the easiest and most consistant on the market(like me,:).


Snobot,Tarvy has you set up,manifold and motor mounts from the pullstart XXX-NT and your good to go. Personally,I would spend the $70 for a starter box,rather then investing another $20-30 to keep the pullstart. Once you've compared them,there's no contest! P.S.,the only "Stupid question",is the one never asked!............Keep em' comin'...........Jim

[Snobot1]

winning edge-

thanks for the help. down the line, when i get a new engine, it will definitely be a non-pull, but for now, it would be nice not to spend another chunk of change, since i just dropped a bunch on the NT. thanks for the help though, i really appreciate it.

[losifreak2004]

Sorry I've fallen off the face of the planet, just doing other stuff (homework, making my girlfriend happy, practicing) and what-not.

I picked up my sixth XXX-NT yesterday. I have two hopped-up trucks now, and a full on DE truck. My dad has three hopped-up trucks.

Saturday is the first round of the SoCal Saturday Series! I finished third last year behind Adam Drake and Vince Stolo, two national champions. Wish me luck!

Aaron

[racer13]

my brothers xxxnt sport just seised up.. POS gas trucks! :mad: i kinda feel *bad* for him. because im the spoiled one... :(

[TyroneShoelaces]

Jesus Aaron! 6 NT'S?!?! Whatddaya need 6 for?
Almost have one for everyday of the week...
:eek:

[cabbynate]

Aaron,
Well, it looks like a few Vegas boys will be comming down for some racing fun. I'm 95% sure I will be there. If I make it I will surely look you up. Did that Dreak truck come with the spring diff or the washer diff. I built a spring diff and it seems smooth on the table but it may be a different story on the track. Also what do you think about the Aluminum top shaft for the XXX-NT?
Part no. A-9931?
Hope to see ya at the race!!!!!http://www.plauder-smilies.de/wavey.gif
Nate

[igozoom]

snobot1, send me your address via email and I will send you a pullstart manifold. I have two brand new ones gathering dust. They are yours, if you like.

igozoom@bellsouth.net.

THought of the day - Push or bump, but never yank ! :D

[PJCruz]

Thanks a million guys. Got the shocks done last night.. and all seems good to go. I need to install the PIcco/mounts and she should be ready to go.

I got Adam Drake's Dirt setup to the T now.. can't wait to get it out there and test it. Mostly before with the "stock setup" I noticed it was a little "squirrelly" going down the straight if I had the slipper tightened up (it was running WAY TOO LOOSE at first), but loosening it up (slipper) fixed the squirrel problem.. but also sapped tons of top speed. Now with 4 deg toe in the rear.. should be more stable yes?

I'll put the motor in and give the truck another hosing down.. and then put on the shock socks. Then it's on to "lesser" things (decaling the body for the race =)

The race is June 15th so I'm ahead of the game. =)

THanks again guys..

Pete

[Nutter]

Aaron: I have one word for you: gurr! ;) :p I'm veeery jelous!
I too was wondering if its got the spring or washer diff, as I've heard that the parts for the washer diff aren't being sold now (sounds like that's wrong though, and I havn't had a chance to check yet).
What engine are you putting in your nice new DE? :)


-Nutter

[bullett1818]

Aaron Im with Nutter, Very Jealous! I dont even have 1 !!!!! :( but hey good luck in your races.

[cabbynate]

I just herd from Adam Drake that his truck comes with the washers. Only the RTR comes with the spring.

[tHe cOokIe]

does anyone know where the xxxnt kit come for 200-250?

[lositeamdriver]

aaron you have some fast guys from vegas going to the sat series see ya there even though i run associated! nate i emailed you back! see ya guys