Team Losi XXXNT forum v2.0

[INFERN06]

BigB
There is a slight possibility that you may have spun a drive pin in the rim of your rear wheel.I have done this before and when you go slow it seems normal cuz there is still pressure on the rim to pin but when good power is applied it starts to slip like a slipper clutch.
If that is not the problem and the rims and pins are in perfect shape check the bearings and then bench test the truck runningto see if there is any binding in the wheels,at a high load a bearing can become unstable in rare cases and slow the rotation of the wheel or shaft.
Also you can bench test the truck with it running by quickly going WOT to see if the steering servo combined with radio noise from the engine is causing a steering effect.By this I mean a frequency created by harmonics of moving metal parts causing radio interference mild enough to throw off steering at certain rpm.This one is a long shot but I have seen this before with Novak Mercury rx"s before.I hope this helps you.:cool:

[igozoom]

Thanks puplerides and NItrosmoke.

NItrosmoke, is the .15 cv-r rear exaust ? Please excuse my ignorance.

[NItro-Smoke]

The .15CV-R has a standard exhaust, it's one of the new O.S motors on the market, along with there .12TR (rear exhaust). They are supposed to coming out with a pull start version of the .15CV-R soon for those who ike pull starts! To me O.S has one of the best powerplants for the money!

[PJCruz]

Hey all, I'm new to this XXXNT forum/thread. I just bought the RTR Limited Edition etc. Haven't broke it in yet... but have some questions please. ( I've done nitro touringnfor 2+ years so I know most stuff... just new to "offroad.")

* I have an extra rec pack from my nitro car, it's a 3x2 hump pack. Will that work in the XXX-NT or do I need to get the xxx-nt type

* I bought the kit with the plan to sell the picco (never used it, and have heard mixed reviews on them), and either pull the Mugen MT-12 from my nitro car OR install my extra engine (OS Hyper .12 with slide carb). If I put either engne in the NT will I need to cut the crank? If not do you think the hpi flywheel would work... or is the spacing totally different ( in case someone has tried this). Is the CV Hyper 12 good enough, underpowered? I know it's easier to tune.

* Wheelies: whatever engine stays in (i may leave the picco in... still debating it), does the "receiver battery box" act as a wheelie bar... or is it possible to flip the truck over completely? Just curious... I see all sorts of picks of Stad. trucks doing wheelies during races down the straight....

Thanks guys, I just decaled the body thaty came w/the kit the AM and have a Triton body liq. masked to mimic the same MF pattern ready to paint as my practice body.../.

:o

[bigb]

PJCruz,
I hope you enjoy your new XXX-NT! I just got one and am very happy with it. I have had no problems with the picco engine so far. Of course, that could be because I don't know enough to know that I'm having problems. :)

INFERN06
Thanks for the info, I will check out the rear drive pins when I get home. I did have the truck at the track the other day, and I don't seem to remember it pulling like it did the first few times I had it out. So I'll just keep an eye on it. I hope it was just the diff breaking in.

Man, my first breakage the other day. Those darn walls at the track got in my way. Broke the right A-arm in half! Oh well, 7.50 later and I'm all fixed up!

Has anyone had any problems with their gas tanks leaking? I have a leak somewhere on the top of the tank. I got done with a run and noticed that there was gas on the underside of my body! I got a new o-ring for the tank and installed that. I haven't had a chance to test it out yet though.

B

[tarvymoto]

the battery should fit...give it a try. You don't have to worry too much about the wheelie thing unless you are on a really high bite track. It can be controlled your index finger. I'd say try the picco , if it gives you fits maybe put an OS carb on it. Seems like you have tuned a engine or 2 so you should be ok. Anyone else?..Travis

[INFERN06]

The only leakage problem I ever had was the pressure line into the tank.Bad idea putting it into the fuel at the lower end of the tank cuz it will back up down the open line into the pipe.I plugged the original hole off and drilled the lid for a fuel line nipple.Now the lid acts as a small pressure pulsing nuetralizer and I have no more leaks as well.:)

[StadiumJ]

It seems to only get worse for me. I have just learned that not only is my engine inexplicably ruined, but you cannot get ANY warranty work from ANYONE. Check this BS out, straight from TeamTrinity.com:

:mad: :mad: :mad:
Trinity/Picco .12 and .15 Engine Warranty


The Picco engine is designed for serious racing. Due to the way the engine is used there is no warranty other than the engine meets all factory specifications at the time of purchase and there are no manufacturing defects. Engine failure due to abuse, misadjustment, incorrect fuel, or normal wear and tear are not covered (Rod, Piston, Sleeve). This engine must be used with Trinity Monster Horsepower fuel to be covered under warranty. Other fuels use less oil and will void any warranty. Certain precautions must be taken to insure that you do not damage the engine while running. 1) Break in your engine by running several tanks of Trinity Monster Horsepower break-in fuel through it. Never run a new engine at full throttle until it is broken in! 2) Never run the engine for extended periods of time at full throttle either in the car or on the bench (running around in circles in a parking lot or up and down your street). This will cause failure of the rod, damaging the piston and sleeve. 3) Running with the carb set too lean will overheat the engine and not provide enough lubrication. This will cause failure of the rod. The carb should be set with approx. 2 turns out on the high-end needle and 2.5 turns out on the low-end needle. 4) Running without an air filter will cause premature wear of all the engines internal components. 5) Over tightening the carb needles will damage them and the spray bars. Be careful when making adjustments to the carb.

Basically this reads: Thank you for buying our defective engines. Due to the high volume of defective engines, we are no longer fixing them. Instead, please feel free to screw yourself. :mad:

[bigb]

StadiumJ,
I know you're angry, heck I'd be angry too. But what I think the warranty is saying is that since there are so many things a person can do to make the engine fail, they can't guarantee that the engine will keep working if abused, adjusted incorrectly, etc. They do state that if there is something wrong with the engine when you buy it, it will be covered.

If anything I think they are trying to say that you should be an experienced nitro runner. Which it is kind of funny that they include one of these engines in a RTR kit.

Just FYI, the OS CV-R warrantee says almost the same thing.
Taken from Tower hobbies:
"Because of the high performance characteristics of this engine
there is No Warranty."


I think you will see that for most any high ouput engine, no one wants to give a warranty.

I would suggest getting an OS CV for it. That DOES come with a 2 year warranty.

Just my $0.02

B

[Racin Rev]

StadiumJ The warrenty is typical, though, for a while there were a bunch of defective cranks (or perhaps assembled incorrectly) that went out and Trinity was unwilling to fix them.

Nevertheless, you have had an offer to replace the piston sleeve for you or to look at the problem for you from two people in this thread, I would take them up on it.

Also, I know what you were talking about when you said that it pushed out the top. Have you tried any of the suggestions which were made to you? I can't believe that it is stuck permently (though I don't doubt that it is tighter than you can remove it.). Try the propane torch or the heat gun or try this. put the Piston and sleeve in the oven at 400 F for 10 min. take a socket slightly smaller in diamater or a large bolt of the same size (if you don't have one go buy one they arn't that expensive) and put it in the freezer. then take out the piston sleeve and put it on a flat surface (perhaps a piece of scrap wood with a hole drilled in it so the connecting rod (which I assume you haven't broken off) will fit. or you could use two surfaces between the rod. Place the Piston sleeve quickly in position (so it won't cool very much) Take the bolt/socket out of the freezer and lay it on the piston face, try not to touch the sides of the cylinder, give the bolt/socket a gentle tap with the hammer. This should expand the cylinder metal from the heat and cause the alum piston to shrink because of the frozen bolt and create some space. If this doesn't work I would be very suprised. (it is an old trick for centering a wrist pin for a Mac 97/98 which used to be a go Kart engine. )

[winning edge designs]

Stadium,Bigb is right!........In fact,for example I had $7500 worth of machining and parts in a Big block biult when I had my 69 chevelle,guess what they told me as I carted out the freshly machined block,crank and heads,etc....."you do realize,since this is a RACING engine,there will be no warranty,other then the machining is spot on right now,before running the engine!".


It is not out of the ordinary for any manufacturer to be very tight on thier warranty. In fact,i've seen some crazy things at the LHS when I help out on occasion. Everything from unleaded 93 octane used in a .12 engine,to trying to run the truck without reciever batteries or transmitter batteries,carb needles bottomed all the way,or falling out,etc.............These same people were literally screaming at them about "what a peice of SH-T we sold them" and they "could have no fun on christmas day,I want all my money back"!".......It's hard to believe with all the usefull instructions and the time the manufacturers put into them, most people still don't even glance thru them at all.


In your case,it may have been a legitamate problem with the engine,but in 98% of the cases,it is user error from what we've seen...........................If you'd like I'll take a look at it and tell you exactly what happened........Hope this helps,Jim

[PJCruz]

Maybe it's me, perhaps I am the utmost UNLUCKIEST of people when it comes to "assembling" stuff. I was hoping to get around it with the Bench Built XXX-NT but it bit me. I was hoping to remove the JRR servos and put in my multiplex servos into the truck.. and then switch the receiver to my Airtronics (I Have an M8). Anyways, my multiplex servos don't "fit" into the truck. Well, I haven't tried the steering servo... but the throttle servo.. the servo's ears are a little "short" of the switch plate.. and nothing lines up. IN the manual the multiplex servos and JRR servos (that came with it) seem to share the same "mounting" positions and everything.... Am I tripping? The JRR servos do not have a "hole" for the screws... the mounting ears are like "C" shaped... mine is a full circle/hole. ANyways.. just wondering if anyone had a similar problem with servos.

ALso, when I installed the rec pack (3x2 hump NiHM 1000mah), I got the little tiny screws in about 80-90% SCREWED IN before they "stripped" with the little allen wreches I used. Did anyone have the same trouble? The lid is pretty much secured.. I may tape it to seal it and prevent it from opening up on the track....

Thanks again.. with some luck.. I'll get that truck out there (at least in my yard) today... can't wait to fire up that truck =)

Peter

[purplerides]

stadium - since Jim offered and he lives in a warmer climate then i do or i'd take a look at but i'm not into freezing , send the motor to him and let him look at it , he could probably get ya going , i know what the hobby shop said but i've also been in some hobby shops that my 3 year old knows more about nitro engines then they do , unless the hobby shop employee is into racing nitro and has experience , you may know about it then he does , what i'm saying is let someone you know has experience look at it. Many on this board have a lot of experience and some don't you kinda got to weed them out i've been racing 1/10th scale nitro for about 5 years and 1/8th scale for 4 years , and i know from years on the internet and seeing Jim's post (on another web site) long before we started using this forum that he won't steer you wrong , for he too didn't start this hobby yesterday.

[tarvymoto]

after thinknig about it , I realized that it's really the 1x4 battery pack that fits the best(sorry). Also you may want to get some nice drivers for the screws on your NT. You'll need a .050 for the little screws to hold the battery top down. You probable stripped the allen driver more than you stripped the screw.

[winning edge designs]

purple rides,thanks for the good words!


I agree with Travy also,the quality of your tools makes any work you do fun,or a chore!...I've biult hundreds of kits,after the first 3 or so,I got good tools,like the ones sold under the Thorp name. Hudy and Dynamite,as well as RPM all make good tools. You'll find it's actually the allen keys giving out and not the hardware itself usually!

I have a 3x2 pack in my truck,it fits,but it needs to go all the way to the deep end,with foam behind it...............Jim

[Racin Rev]

pjcruz, I had similar problems. I think that perhaps the drivers required are way too small for the screws that they drive. Nevertheless, i solved the problem by using larger headed screws in places where a countersunk screw was not required and spending $20 on drivers for the two most common head sizes for the truck. BTW don't buy these at the hardware store regardless of how much they charge for them ( I learned the hard way). get them at your lhs and buy the best ones.

[INFERN06]

I agree fully,don't waste money on substandard tools.Get a set of MIP drivers or the Kinwald set that is blue just like the MIP.There are other ones out there from OFNA and Integy to name a couple but MIP I know offers a lifetime warranty on all their tips not to strip or break.Other drivers have warranty too just check around.:D

[PJCruz]

Thanks guys..you are all great.

Let me ask you...what bodies are there available for the xxx-nt? Proline has 1 body? I bought a Triton body to hack around with but would rather have bought something different. The Triton came with window masks and that's it. No decals or anything. It was a Losi branded body too.

[Nutter]

Hey, how do you guys remove the pin that holds the brake hub in place? I've scratched up the shaft that the brake is on pretty badly by trying to remove it with pliers.. it takes like 15+ mins to get the pin out every time I need to take apart the gearbox. :(


-Nutter

[DsWright]

the RTR isn't a typical beginner type ready to run, the XXX-NT RTR is ready to race!

It's geared towards the racers that don't like to build kits, or don't feel comfortable building them.

I think that losi has kind of mis advertised the product and alot of inexperienced people are buying them thinking they are a beginner truck, when in fact the included engine can give the beginner lots of problems.

Not trying to insult anyone here, just don't think the product should be advertised like other RTR's, which are easy for beginners to learn on.

I myself fried my first nitro engine in about 2 gallons( O.S. CV.12) but after killing one engine i knew how to take care of and properly break in the other engines i bought.

If i had tried that picco .15 as my first engine, i would probably be running electric again from frustration. Hell after being in nitro 5 years now, i STILL get frustrated with the picco's=)

the XXX-NT with a .12 or .15 CV in it WOULD be a good beginner truck. I just don't think losi made the distinction that this isn't the usual RTR, that infact it's a full on race package that's prebuilt.

just my $.02

[Racin Rev]

DsWright, I agree with you but I would go farther. I am not sure that the concept of ready to race is a good one. Building makes a person much more aware of what is involved with the vehicle. This helps later when things break (which they will) or when you do that tear down to put some modification on. if a person isn't comfortable with a wrench and screwdriver they are going to be at a terrible loss when the need arises to use them. if someone doesn't have those skills the Losi is not the best place to learn. It is way more complecated than say, a nitro rush or a (ahem) rc10 gt. As for the engine, I am not sure that I will ever be ready for a Picco. I can't help but think that an OS CVR would have been a better choice (even a Nova would have been better). But these decisions are determined by politics not sence. Great Planes is exclusive distributor for OS and they are the arch enemy of Horizon who owns Losi (not sure exactly how that relationship works) Trinity, on the other hand, seems to have a very close relationship with Losi.

[purplerides]

nutter - i use plyers , there is a knack to them that you get used to and gets easier , the new losi gear box's have a slot so removing the pin isn't reqiured to remove shaft from gearbox.


bigb - i have had some bad tanks several years ago a lot of them used to leak from the seam on the sides i don't see that to often now , i just built a new truck to replace the old one and that fuel tank leaked real bad out of the filler cap , the o-ring was good no cuts , it seemed like the throte of the tank were the o-ring seals against was slightly larger then normal.

[cabbynate]

PJCruz

Your Triton body should have came with decals.
Call Losi and tell them you did not get any and maybe they will send you a set.;)

[cabbynate]

PJ

After reading some past posts, I seen you had a problem with the screws in your battery box. Replace them with a 4 pice set from GreatPlanes. they are 2-56x1/2" socket head screws. Part # is GPMQ3002. They take a 5/64 hex wrench. Much larger than the .05" Hex head screws that come with the kit.

[lositeamdriver]

ok im not new to this but i been racing for a year and now i got back into it from staying away for a few months and i am going to race in the silver state nitro challenge here in vegas and i was going to baroow my friend 3ps with a novak xxl reciver and this one guy said it glitches that reciver is made for elec can some one help becuyse i get the radio this sat andf i wanted to know if i schould go and get a airtronics reciver or try it out and see if it work he cabby email me bubbahatton@lvcm.com

[purplerides]

losidriver - i have been using the novak XXL's since like a month after they came out , i have 1 in each of my XXXNT's (i now have 2 xxxnt's) , 1 in RS4MT , 1 in my KYO 7.5 , hmm let me check , yep! there all nitro and none of mine ever glitch , i use a futaba 3PJ and JR Z8550 servos. i know several people at my local track that use the XXL recievers in gas trucks and no problems , unless we're all just lucky.

[lositeamdriver]

ok thank you for that i was woirried but i didnt see no one else saying it so i had to check thank you for the fast reply and see every one at the silverstate nitro challenge for more info check out www.lasvegasrcraceway.com

[PJCruz]

Just wondering, I am currently planning to break in the picco in my ready to race xxx-nt kit, but I also have a OS CV Hyper 12 AND a Mugen MT-12 (currently installed in my "gutted" touring car). If I wanted to install either engine in the xxx-nt, would I need to do any "surgery" (i.e. cutting the crank?). Currently they are both standard threaded shafts (and std length also). IN other words, just remove the flywheel/clutch from the picco and pop it onto the other engine?

Again, just wondering....... =-) THanks

[purplerides]

pj - you would need losi part# A-9376 (Flywheel collet w/shims) the Picco takes a special collet and shims avail. from trinity , it won't work on your O.S. or mugen , everything else will swap right over motor mounts , flywheel,clutch etc. you won't have to cut the crank either.

[lositeamdriver]

have any one seen the new rear shock tower thats out if so where could i find one ..?

[ronin8451]

Has anyone tried the XXX sway bars? If so, in what conditions? I saw on Losi's website that one of their team drivers use them in his standard set-up on the rear.

On the small 2-56 screws in the batt. box... use a little of Losi's white lube on the threads (just a drop) and they'll screw in better!

As far as screws in the chassis, I have converted them to torx c/sink screws from MSC distributors ($12.00 for 100pcs of holochrome aerospace quality fasteners -Camcar/texron) and these are yet to strip!!

[diesel757]

ronin
where did you get the torx screws?

[StadiumJ]

I hadn't heard from you since you made your incredibly generous offer. I would like to take you up on it and have sent you a PM accordingly. Check your mail! Thanks again.

[StadiumJ]

Hey guys, I have couple questions. First, in case Igozoom can't get those parts to me, what is the pack I need? Does the piston, sleeve, & conrod all come in one bag? Also, what is the part that goes on top of the sleeve called (the part that the glow plug screws into)?

Are there bettor pistons, sleeves, etc.?

[ronin8451]

Diesel757: You can get them at www.mscdirect.com or call 1-800-645-7270 and ask for the latest catalog. the part #'s are as follows: 4-40 x 1/4" #60500030 100pcs@ $11.14
4-40 x 3/8" #60500055 100pcs@ $11.62
You can also get socket head stainless screws for about $3.90 for 100pcs (4-40 x 1/4") . They also have button head torx screws in 4-40 size for around $9.00 per 100pcs. These fasteners are all far superior to what comes in the kits in both strength and quality!!! If they can hold an airplane together, then they should hold my truck together as it only spends some of its life in the air!:D

Picco parts: As far as the Picco engine parts, the round piece you find under the head is called the "head button", and they are only a few bucks at Tower. The part# is TP2313 for $10.99, the connecting rod is #TP1346 for $39.99. A tip on new engines: lubricate the piston and sleeve liberally with Marvel Mystery Oil and leave the glow plug out, cover the head with a rag and turn the motor over a few times (5 second bursts only) with the starter box. Before you try to start it, heat the engine with a hair dryer or a heat gun on low until it is warm and that will expand it enough to start easily .

[Nutter]

hmm.. torx screws do sound like a very good idea to me, they do look like they'd be a lot harder to strip than normal hex screws.. does anyone know if this really is so? How do they compare to hex screws?
If they are better.. why are hex's still supplied with high end the kits? :)


-Nutter

[Racin Rev]

I agree. I would like to see the Torx replace all allen and phillips applications, and not just in r/c, everywhere.

[very low budget racer]

If you want evenbetter screws, I think screws with a triangle slot not hex would be even better.

[PJCruz]

Ok guys, I have some more questions =) But today I talked to my wife and looks like I have the green light for my first offroad event. Next weekend at J's Action R/C (check out the article in RC Car Action on the "Super cross" style. They are like 10 min from my house and I even helped them setup their ROAD membership WAY BACK WHEN. Anyways... here goes:

1. Not a question, but some info for everyone. I called Team Losi today and asked them about the decals for the Triton NT body. It does NOT come with decals. At least not the Losi version. I think someone else is making a "Triton" body.. and those come with decals.. but I think they are for GT and TMaxx.

2. Speaking of bodies, will any other bodies fit the XXX-NT? Someone at another hobby shop today told me a Maxx Sierra body would fit.... I thought he was out of his tree. Anyways, how about GT bodies (everyone makes a bunch of them), finding different NT bodies bites. Only the Triton, and the Fury that I know of. Argh!

3. In prepping for my next offroad adventure, I am prepping "tires." The kit came with the Losi ribs in front and the Step Pin in the rear (red compound). Apparently "bow ties" RULE for the surface at J's. Anyways, I have a T3 with bowties already mounted and glued. Will they fit on my nt? Or are the hubs different? Will AE wheels fit the Losi.. or is everthing basically a 2.2 truck tire (front or rear).

4. I have always used Blue Thunder Race Formula, and recently been thinking of switching to Trinity (both 20%). Is the Trinity stuff "the bomb?" I had mixed results with the BT, it was ok, but my tuning was erratic (maybe it was me, the weather in Houston, or the fuel.. the car/fuel system was fine). Does the trinity "tune better" or is it more consistant than BT? Just wondering for opinions? Or is it all the same no matter what.. just thinking of switching due to the picco that's all.


Thanks again guys.. tomorrow I will pickup a "race body" for the event, and maybe some more losi tires. I picked up today the lunsford turnbuckles..

Pete

PS: Sorry for the long post ;-)

[tarvymoto]

That motorcross format sounded cool.

As far as tires go , if bow-ties are "it" at the track , your Losi stock FRONT tires should be fine. Your Bow-ties from the T3 should fit ?(try them on for size) , but if you want to be ready...and I know you do (kidding) , you may want to also have some losi T-bones rears for a "looser"(than that wich would be good for bow-tie's) track surface . Or try some Losi T2000 for a higher grip serface( you may not need the T2000 if the track is not clay). Those would give you something to go to if the Bow-ties were to loose or too grippy. Anyway , if tha was confusing I apologize. I can elaborate if you'd like. ..Travis

[cabbynate]

PJ

I have a set of Losi decals for the Triton that came with the body. They are head lights, grill/tail lights. They also come with window masks. Maybe they stoped adding them? :confused: Hmmm....

I don't think the A/E rims will fit.

I use Traxxas 20%. I think it has better lub though I think I'm alone on this thought.:)

[cabbynate]

Go with what Travis said, I'm sure he knows for sure.

[XXXtacy]

Originally posted by cabbynate
PJ
I don't think the A/E rims will fit.



Yes they do. I have wheels/tires from my RC10T that I use on my XXXNT.

[purplerides]

pj - i use trinity fuel since it came out , well actually i tried some even before it came out i love it , in the past i used byrons which is also very good , i had bad luck with blue thunder switched back to byrons then trinity came out and haven't and probably won't switch again.

[bigb]

Hey guys,
I have a question: I'm looking at getting some better than stock front A-arms. I was hoping for some RPM ones. The problem is that I don't see any specifically designed for the xxx-nt.
Does anyone know if RPM makes the part? Will the NXT part work?

thanks
B

[tarvymoto]

I don't think any aftermarket a-arms are available for the NT. The stock arms are pretty darn good. Whats the problem that you have w/ them? My NT is full graphite except the front a-arms , just to have a bit of give:D Travis

[bigb]

WEll, I broke my right one on a crash into the wall. :rolleyes: It broke in half down the center!
It wasn't even WOT or anything. I am just looking for something a bit stronger.

Not a re-occuring as of yet, but if it is, I want something better.

Thanks
B

EDIT: Darn typo's!

[ronin8451]

PJcruz: The GT wheels do fit , but your truck will be about a 1/4" wider (due to the different offset). If you use the Proline wheels for the GT, then you have to use the GT's shorter drive pins (the 1/16" pins in the losi are a little too long for the slot). The GT pins are only $1.00 a package and they are working so far with my losi wheels and GT wheels with no stripping out. :D

[lositeamdriver]

http://www.geocities.com/bubbahatton/TEAMVEGAS.html CHECK OUT MY SITE IT GETS UP DATED EVERY DAY JUST OPENED IT SO ITS MISSING SOME STUFF IT WILL TAKE A WHILE TO GET GOING ITS DETICATED TO LOSI AND VEGAS RACING

[StadiumJ]

Thanks for the part #'s Ronin.

For anyone, will this set work for my engine? I have the Picco .12 that comes with the Ready to Race Limited Edition.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXTA80&P=7

Thanks.

[waterboy]

What type of air filter do you guys reccomend?
I have the ready to race version.

Also, what temp range should I expect from the picco?

Thanks

[ronin8451]

Stadium: no problem, yes that is the piston and sleeve for the Picco .12

[StadiumJ]

My LHS isn't so bad after all. The owner got a hold of his "contact" within Horizon Hobby. After hearing the story of my engine (unexplained seizing after 6 tanks) he agreed to send out all of the parts I need-----no charge! I WILL drive this truck soon. :)

I'd like to second Waterboy's question about temperature. To be more specific, what kind of temperatures do you expect with the McCoy 59's? Also, should I use a colder glow plug during the break-in process? If so, which one?

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

I'm back!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[purplerides]

my picco usually runs around 210-220 , i know people that run them around 250 , sometimes on a real large track mine would run around 235-240 , i don't mind as long as it don't much over 240 and runs good , 90% of the time mine runs around 210. i use the stock Losi air filter , don't use a motor saver air filter what ever you do , i refer to them as motor destoyers.

[igozoom]

Sorry Stadium. Best friend was killed Sunday. Had to ID body,pick up truck and bike, etc, so his lovely wife didn't have to deal with it. Funeral this morning. Promise I will check email and worst case scenario, forward tomorrow via Overnight delivery.

While I am still new to this, I am sure the great guys on this site can get you going. Don't give up. It's too much fun to let a stinkin engine ruin your fun.

To everyone......tell those around you how much they mean to you today or how much they improve the quality of your life, I don't care if they are just internet budiies.......they may not be here tomorrow.

[tarvymoto]

We are all very sad to hear about your friend. I will say a prayer for his family and friends. Travis

[NItro-Smoke]

Sorry about your buddy man--thats terrable, what happened if you dont mind me asking? I had my best friend-co-worker(did everything together) go down of cancer at 33 years old--you never now whats going to happen at this day and age!!

Purpleride---whats up with the motor-savers, I heard they are the best filter to use--I have one but if its that bad I may have to change.


Stadium- My CV-R runs around 200-220 and it screams, everybody says that motor doesnt wake up till 250-270 and if thats the case, that is one killer fast motor--I havent leaned it out that much and I really dont need to the way it runs now!!

[PJCruz]

Igozoom, dude.. sorry to hear about your friends. Lately it seems alot of people around seem to be passing away. It's just really messed up.

I'll say a prayer for him, his family and you.

Pete

[StadiumJ]

I'm very sorry for your loss. If you read this in time, keep your parts. I was able to get the parts for no charge. Thanks again for your very generous offer.

[INFERN06]

Purplerides
I agree with the motor saver filter being substandard,especially for a .21("only thing they keep out are kids and small rodents" Quote: Ron Paris R.I.P.
I have run them all and while the motor saver is an ok filter for gas truck I would only use one on a wet track no dust.
In 1/8 buggy I use the filter suggested to me by Mr.Paris when we spoke a while back.Use the OS filter that comes with the RZ-V99,as for .12 engines I am not sure which filter is best yet.
Word of advice tho is do not use K&N oil for the MS filter.

[ronin8451]

I use the Dynamite Turbo Flow ($4.95 w/one filter foam, $9.95 for 4 replacement foams)on my engines with OS size carb. It looks like a "mini" 1/8th scale filter. I use the Ofna 2-stage ( inner and outer foam filters)1/8th scale aluminum filter on my .12 nova and my .21 engines. The best oil for foam filters is the PJ1 spray foam filter oil ( about $7.00 at motorcycle shop) and it lasts for a yaer or more!!

[purplerides]

my 1/10th i use the stock losi mostly , i also do like the O.S. filters i never had a problem with them , the motor savers i've seen two things happen 1)when dust/dirt particle are on the large size the dirt plugs the screen and motor can't get any air i seen this happen a couple of times with 30 min. mains 20 mins. into the main the motor can't get no air and is running so rich that the truck wouldn't get out of it's own way. 2) when it's real dusty and dust particles are fine they suck the fine dust right through and into the engine destroying the piston and sleeve , i lost two piston and sleeves this way in the same weekend.

for my 1/8th scale i use the stock kyosho

[purplerides]

also if you notice when you go to big races and all the factory drivers are there , see what they use , they aint using motor savers a.k.a.(motor destoyers) usually there using the stock type filter. hmmm if there was an advantage to these supposed super filters power etc., and provided good protection they would be using them.

[StadiumJ]

I just picked one of these up at Sears. It is a digital stem thermometer. For $20, I have yet to see a comparable alternative. What do you guys think?

http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summary/productsummary.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@1179680397.101 3120230@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccheadcegdfjdilcehgcemgdffmdfin.0&vertical=SEARS&bidsite=&pid=03482392000

[Racin Rev]

StadiumJ
you tell us. I have been eyeing something similar at the local True Value. What I am wondering is what you would be measuring with it. I have an old restaurant thermometer which has an analog display (which means it is mechanical) I put the end on the end of a hot pan and waited... and waited... and waited for the needle to rise, it took a long time for the heat to transfer through the tiny tip to the reader. by then it was fighting the cooling properties of the shaft. The digital might be quicker but not by much. I was thinking about filing the tip blunt but haven't had time to experiment. I am not sure how much to take off before the item is broken. I was thinking that you could lay the shaft along the side of the head (that is, the channel where the fins come out). It would give a reading but it would be cooler than the actual face of the head. This would be ok if you can, in some way, compare that reading to a similar reading with an infrared and then add or subtract as appropriate. (there would be some variance because of outside temp but it would be better than nothing.) I am not all that convinced by the infrared ones either. I have one for taking my son's temp and if you use it six times you get six readings because it cannot be aimed at the same spot all the time. It is too cold here for me to experiment but let us know how you come out.
:)

[igozoom]

Thanks all for your kind words and prayers. You know you're depressed when you have a brand new xxx nt on the table that only needs the throttle and brake linkage attached to fire up....and you could care less. Glad to report that reading the thread has got my mind going again.

My bud, Bruce Browning, was killed motocross riding. Went over the bars Sunday. Crushed four vertebre (Sp?) and severed spinal cord. This was a 40 year old vet rider, not some 16 year old all hopped up on a Crusty Demon's of Dirt Vid. Got the call from my wife after first heat at the track.

I quit motocross after 18 months in a wheelchair and crutches. That's why I race RC trucks now. Guess I was the lucky one. If curiuos, go to www.jacksonville.com and check the obits. People have written some nice things. Sorry for being off topic. Now let's get down to business:

Last weekend, I was driving like Ray Charles !!!!! Good thing I had to leave the track. Almost got beat by a T Max !!!!! hehehe Tarvey, hurry up and get up here so you can me to drive !!!!!

Any way to shorten length of trigger pull on the JR XR-3? Between braking when front end understeering and jumping back on throttle, seems like a 2 inch squeeze. Should I quit whining and pay the big cheese for the R-1 which can dial out dead space? Anyone ?

StadiumJ, glad to hear you obtained replacement parts free. Offer still stands for immediate future. Don't even try to take me up on my offer 6 months from now when you need a rebuild after running 50 gallons through the motor! hehehe

Peace, Love, and 20%

[Railman]

IgoZoom, My heart goes out to you. I know a bit about the MX deal. I used to race many years ago... ran over my share of racers on starts, & broke my share of bones...left arm, & both collar bones. Used to race 52 races a year when I started out! I can't imagine 18 months in a wheel chair. Only knew of a few that were killed at races though. Raced a winter pro qualifier series in florida in '75. Man, me & sand just didn't get along! After 7 weeks of practice, & racing in it I never did get the hang of it. Did very well on KY dirt, hills & rocks though. :D
Hope you find comfort in your friends & wife, & God speed to your lost friend.


On the MS filters, I totally agree with you guys. I've been involved in more than a few flamin threads on the subject. It's kinda hard to figure out how some guys swear by them, & others swear AT them. I don't think they have enough surface area to deal with any amount of dirt. Once they load, it's just going to draw through the filter like a strong vacume cleaner, or worse yet find a spot to leak past the filter. I use an oversize auto fuel filter... same as stock only 1 1/2 times as long. I just buy the long one, cut it down, & epoxy back together. By being bigger it allows me to use some oil in the pleated element, & still breathe well. Anyway, that's my $.02;)
Joe

[Got Speed]

What is the front and rear track on a standard XXXN-T? How long are the front and rear arms, and what is the width of the arm where it ataches to the bulks?

Thanks alot.

[purplerides]

igozoom sorry to hear about your friend it sucks to lose people in suck a manor.

racin rev - all infrared temp. probes are not greated equal , the problem with many of them is emissitivity(sp.) and that has to do with the color of the object your temping they are programmed at the manufacture for a specific color, and some probes have what they call auto emmissitivity they however do cost more , i have the one made by exergen it cost about $250.00 and readings are very consistent you can temp. the motor several times and the readings vary only a degree or two , also i had several people with them temp. the same motor and all four probes were with in 3 or 4 degrees that's close , i also seen others with the raytex probes and get a wide spred of readings like you mentioned by aiming at a slightly different spot and i'm talking like 100 degrees plus difference , and compared reading to my probe and if they aim around enough they can find a temp. thats close to what i'm reading but they have to be real careful where they aim , with the exergen probe i get almost the same temp. were ever i hit close to the glowplug. i don't know exactly how the auto emmissitivty works all i know is they are consistant.

[ronin8451]

igozoom: We all indeed feel your sorrow! I thought that my friend and I were the only wore out MX'ers turned to R/C! I raced cross country until a KX500 ripped my left knee apart. At that point you'd think I would quit, nope I got a Quadzilla ( 500cc's of pure monster) that my friend had that was a 2 time Texas #1 plate TT champion and went flattracking. I still remember when the owner of DG Products' son was killed at the track, it's a very humbling experience. Our prayers are there for you and his family.

[tarvymoto]

I bit of more than I could chew:D

[StadiumJ]

It is simply too slow and inaccurate. I took around 2 minutes to get up to temp. Then it wandered around. I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and buy one of the big boys.

Has anyone had any experience with a digital multimeter with a temp probe? It looks like you could put together a package for around $120.

[StadiumJ]

Ok, so I will be rebuilding my Picco .12 this weekend. Is "Loctite Tite'N Threadlocker for Bolts" what I want for the engine bolts? What kind of sealant should I use? When I re-seat the sleeve do I lubricate it on both sides or just the inside? Thanks.

[lositeamdriver]

heres my xxxnt its kida ugly but its cool!

[purplerides]

stadium - don't use any threadlock on the engine bolts NEVER , a coat of marvel mystery oil or 3 in one all over is good it don't need to be slobbering wet.

[igozoom]

Thanks for the kind words Ronin. Seems like we do have a bunch of former MXer's or Racers. Appears that we were all fortunate enough to say...." hey, here's an idea! Instead of me getting out of whack through the whoops or ugly over a triple and busting my a$$, how about if I run little teeny expensive trucks into a wall and just go to the LHS and spend some money instead. Guess that's how we got to be old MXer's, Drag Bikers and Car Racers,etc. I do miss my friend though. OK let's lighten it up.

Tarveymoto - Nice paint job sir. Much nicer than my cheapo mask and paint cans. Actually, I'm collecting aluminum cans to purchase one of Jim's Bodies!!!!! hehehe. Seriously, when I can get through a heat or two without crashing, I want one of W.E.D.'s paint jobs. They are smokin. Plus, Jim said I will win the main and be TQ or my money back !!!! lol

Lositeamdriver - I think the paint job is cool. It's nice to see something unique.

[alcohol]

hi all. i'm new to 1/10 nitro (been play with 1/8 for a couple of years ).
igozoom. soory to hear the bad news. my best wishes to you his family and all who knew him (i'm also an ex mxer).

can anyone help with glow plug heat rang.
i am going to run 20% nitro with 11% oil.
the dynamite engine has no recomendations in the instutions.
i am thinking of nova c4&c5 plugs.

[tarvymoto]

I'd be glad to paint a nice body up for you. Mine aren't the blue ribbon concours winning type , but they are usually the sweetest looking racer bodies on the track. Plus I'd do it for a very resonable price.LMK. if not , no biggy. We still have to get to gether in Jville when I get in town(mid March). We'll have to team up and take on some of those local speedsters..hehe...they'd better watch out. Travis

[tarvymoto]

.

[INFERN06]

For some years I was also a mx-er and while the rush is awesome and the air can be sick,I had to stop from the punishment it gives you.I miss it dearly and would love to do it again but I'm not the young kid I once was.I consider myself lucky to walk away from as many bails as I have and want to keep it that way.I feel terrible for the loss of a fellow rider that passed on doing what he obviously loved and at a young age.My condolences to the family and friends.

[igozoom]

Inferno, thanks for your kind words.

Tarveymoto - Might take you up on some paint action. come on up. While I can't win, I can careen recklessly behind you, take up the good lines, and maybe crash a couple of guys out !!! Hey, wait a minute.......that's what I do now! hehehehe

Evryone, I need some help. I am tired of sacrificing a dead chicken prior to every run to tune the Picco. Not willing to give up the motor as I love the power characteristics. Converting Picco carb to os 10er. Other than getting the adapter, anything I have to worry about? How do I get the needle settings close ?

[Nutter]

igozoom: Try sacrificing a live chicken before you attempt anything, I hear the gods prefer them to dead ones. :p

A weird thing happened at the track today.. one of the jumps had some big holes in it (looks like someone stood there kicking it for a while), and my XXX-NT rolled a few times after a bad take-off and an even worse landing. The weird thing was that one of the front camber link rod ends popped off the ball stud.. yet at the same time the ball stud popped out of the bulkhead, so the ball stud was nowhere to be seen! I've replaced it with a nice titanium one (damn those hex heads are USEFUL!), but I'm getting a new bulkhead aswell as I doubt that the ball stud won't stay in much longer. I'll be replacing the rod ends with RPM ones also (I've been meaning to for quite a while, but just never bothered).

Oh yea, I need some recommendations for a setup.. I'm running on a small and tight track with fairly short straights, there's very little in the way of jumps, the surface isn't very smooth but it's a bit hard yet still soft & dusty (basically it's just normal dirt, not clay). Currently I have orange springs in the front and white in the rear, and all the standard link locations, I'm not sure about shock oil however.
The problem is that I'm finding it very hard to take corners at anything less than a crawl, or I simply spin out. I've been told to try harder springs in the rear, so should I try yellow's? What should I try for shock oil? How will I know if I need to go up or down in springs/oil/pistons?
Basically I have no clue when it comes to setups. :( Could it be caused by having my diff set too loose or something similar? It's not slipping or anything though, and there are no ceased or bad bearings.

Thanks :) :D


-Nutter

[lositeamdriver]

nutter-- my track is about the same way and i run white springs in rear 40 wt and reds in front 27 1\2 wt all arms level and i run directionals in front and step pins in the rear mine hooks up good and i dont spin out much so try that if you want to and lmk how it works!.......

[tarvymoto]

Try putting Red springs up front , and the Orange in the rear. 30 wt oil all the way around and arms/ bones level. It sounds like you have the front end too stiff(with the orange up front) and this causes a push.

[INFERN06]

I would think you have seen my truck cuz that is how mine is set up.:D

[losifreak2004]

Try Adam Drake's standard setup from the Team Losi website. Make sure you try the WHOLE thing, don't add parts of your own setup here and there. This setup should work well at any track you go to, and if steering is what you are looking for, this is the ticket.

White is MUCH too soft for the rear of a gas truck. At least try pinks!

Set your diff somewhat on the tight side, but not locked down.

igozoom - Try starting with both screws flush with the housing around it. This is far from where you will end up, but the motor will start.

Sorry I've been gone....anyone need anything?

[tarvymoto]

Nice to see you back. How did you do at that race the other weekend? Travis

[Nutter]

Thanks guys.. I'll try Drake's setup next and then try a few other changes to see how I go if it still seems a bit off. :)


-Nutter

[PJCruz]

J's Action RC in Houston will be having their first "event" of the year NEXT weekend. I have made plans to go (they are 10 min from my house ;-). Anyways, I'm hoping my NT will hold up and I"ll do well. I"m a pretty decent driver (for on road), so hopefully taking it easy and trying to finish (rather than going for broke) will net me a spot in a high main. This is my first offroad race. ANyways.. I have some questions...


* Transponder mount: Where do you guys mount yours? On the lower windshield with a hole to mount it? Or does someone make a mount I can fit on the chassis for it?

* Body: ANy suggestions on a simple yet nice paint scheme. I tried to mimic the Matt Francis style on a Trinton body I bought for "practice" and made a mess. It is ONLY a practice body now. I bought a "stock body" which is the same as the kit (i.e. Fury body?) and will use that for the race... but wanted some ideas on schemes. I have a Matt Francis painted style body that came with the XXXNT Ready to Race kit I bought. I'll keep it for show. I was hoping for a "bright" setup to help me see it in traffic and at the other side of the track.

* Glow driver: I bought a driver to plug into my ofna starter box (with the power panel). The driver does NOT have the plugs attached so I will need to solder them on. The wires on the driver are the same.... (at least from what I can see so far). I'm sure it matters which wire goes into the plugs on the box (glow driver plugs I know.. not the others).

I had another question, but I'm forgetting what it was now... I tried posting this like 5 times last night and it never worked. Darned internet =)

Peter

[PJCruz]

The other question was this.. I remember now..

* Captured ball ends: Would it be better to use captured ball ends instead of the ball caps on the turnbuckles? I am putting in the Lunsford Ti pieces.. and were just wondering about the ends. I think I'll put the stock ball cups on for now.. and maybe get the RPM ones later on.. but for offroad wouldn't it be better with captured ball ends to keep from popping" turnbuckles loose on big jumps/bumps?

Thanks again guys...

Nitro all the way.

Pete

[lositeamdriver]

pjcruz--

i used ball cups all the way around except for on the rear bulk head\shock tower then i use eyelets


transonder mount--i have mine at the front of the truck or right be low the front window try to put it in front becuse if you and some one are dead tied then his is in thr front and yours in the back you will lose becuse he will count first so as far up front as possible

[losifreak2004]

Travis - Had a bad weekend, didn't qualify well at all (I had two rounds on a dry track, and one of the other one's my dogbone broke in warm up, so I had to use my back up truck. My only good round I was 9th fastest). Then I broke a shock end in the main and didn't bump up.

I'll make up for it in Vegas.

PJCruz - I mount mine with a piece of lexan just in front of the gas tank. Don't mount it too far forward, you might notice a slight difference in handling (not likely, but some people can, especially on certain tracks)

Try a paint scheme with a bright yellow in the front, maybe an inch wide stripe or two from the top down at an angle, and finish with a red or blue.

There are quite a few good glow igniters out right now, and any one of them will work great. Caution on those that plug into the box though, cords have been known to get caught on stuff, and will drain your box battery faster.


nutter - It will get you in the ballpark, and then let me know what changes you need from there.

Aaron

[cabbynate]

PJ

I use the Associated TC3 transponder mount CA'ed to the top of the receiver cover. I use a thin battery pad in between to raise it some and as a vibration damper. Works great.

[NItro-Smoke]

Hey, Im having a heck of a time keeping my servo horns from stripping! Im running an ofna medal servo arm on a hitec 625MG servo and using the supplied horn adapter to fit on my Hi-tec servo! Im always stripping the adapter??? Im stripping the inside of the adapter that connects to the servo output shaft. Does anyone use a servo saver on there servo? Now the question is who carries an assortment of servo adapters so I can replace my stripped one! Or does anyone have a better idea. I remembered about the built in servo saver on the truck and it didnt seem to tight but I loosened it up a little anyway! Thanks

[cabbynate]

Nitro-Smoke

Are you using the #24 adapter?
Losi has the adapters # A-9415. $4.50

[NItro-Smoke]

Yea I was using the 24 from Losi, my problems started when I went to the aluminum arm and had to start fitting adapters for the ofna arm to fit onto the servo. So I just went out to my pit box and found my stock losi arm and installed it!! Some things are just better off STOCk!! Things should be ok now. Thanks

[INFERN06]

I preferr to run a glow driver panel off the box,if the box is charged up like everything else then a full day is not a problem and there is never any question if the igniter is dead.....if the box won't turn over the motor you aren't starting it anyways,the light on the panel(some of them)is a good indicator if the plug works mind you this only tells you it is not broken it could be bad still,and it is adjustable for current so if you need more juice to get it going then turn it up but you can also turn it down as well.:cool:

[StadiumJ]

Where can I can find some street rims for my truck? Does anyone make rims that will fit the XXXNT? Thanks.

[losifreak2004]

Inferno - I just hate seeing igniter wires get caught on 1/8 buggy wings and pull the whole box of the pit table!

Stadium - Pro-Line makes some 2.2 rims, I believe, as does RPM.

Aaron

[StadiumJ]

So now I need to rebuild my Picco 12. Can I just spray the inner workings with denatured alcohol? It has only had 6 tanks through it, but there is a green coating on the inside (I assume it is spoiled fuel).

After cleaning I will assemble the piston/conrod/sleeve and attach the head (remembering the shim). I will use medium strength Loctite on all metal/metal screws.

I will use some Permatex sealant and seal the backplate, the carburetor fitting, and the exhaust. I am wondering what I need to do to seal the carb itself. I want to seal everything.

Should I lose the washers around the banjo inlet in order to seal it?

How do I line up the banjo inlet with the hole?

How far should the third needle be from the cone-shaped fuel inlet within the carb when throttle is wide open? I should set it now while I can easily see it.

If you have anything to add to my plan or you can answer any of my questions, please do! Thanks for your time.

[dr.dirt]

Anybody know where the best places to get hop ups for the xxxnt. There seems to be a lot of places to get them for the rc10gt, but not that many for the xxxnt. thanks, Jim

[Nutter]

Trinity has lots of cool blue aluminium parts for the XXX-NT. :) Robinson Racing also make an aluminium diff gear, but all I've heard about it is bad things (it'll make the diff stronger, but the if it's slipping so much that it'd melt the stock gear, the heat'll melt the other gears).


-Nutter

[dr.dirt]

Thanks nutter, I saw the robinson site. I wonder if the clutchbell gears and spur gears from robinson will interchange with the losi. Jim

[winning edge designs]

Jim,the losi gears are 32 pitch stock,so any 32 pitch clutch bell will work. Also any 32 pitch dual disk slipper gear will work as well,but there aren't many other then made for the truck that I know of. The key being the dual slipper disks,but 32 pitch is nop problem,I just run the stock spurs available from TeamLosi. They also have an improved clutch bell out now,it uses stronger unflanged bearings.

I buy all my parts for my stuff from the guys at Superior Hobbies. Check in RC Car Action for thier adds,or thier website at superiorhobbies.com....They have everything from 1/8th scales,oval cars,off-road,gas,electric,1/18th scale micro stuff,just everything!............Jim

[purplerides]

stadium - 1)yes you can use denatured alcohol to clean the inside of the motor to make sure debris (if any) from previous motor failure is cleaned out , coat all internal parts lightly with marvel oil.

2) absolutely and positively DO NOT USE ANY LOCTITE on any screws for the head or rear cover. .

3) you shouldn't need any sealer on the backplate Picco uses an o-ring that works well , if you decide to some on use very,very little , put it on the backplate all the way by the screw holes so it seals against the block , don't put it on the block then put the backplate on you may drag some inside the motor that way. carb. fitting and exhaust should be fine.

4) no don't lose the washer that's the sealing surface for the banjo , i haven't seen a picco leak there , i've seen some people put sealent there i have sealed other motors there but i can't stress enough very very little is all you would use and i mean a very thin coat, you must be careful i've helped guys out at the track that were having problems a low and behold i take the high end assem. apart and find some sealent stuck in there.

5) no need to line banjo up with inlet hole , there is a channel on the inside of the banjo so fuel will get to the inlet no matter what direction it's facing.

6)third needle = low end needle?? , the low end needle should be about a match's thick away from the spraybar. more is good (start rich tune towards lean) you can set it with the carb. wide open turn low end needle all the way in then back out 3 - 3 1/2 turns. yes set in now.

good luck i hope you have better luck with this one.


dang spelling errors and i'm sure there's more ...LOL

[StadiumJ]

But why shouldn't I use any Loctite on the metal-to-metal screws? I have read time and time again that you need Loctite on the engine screws because the vibration causes them to loosen......and then you lose the seal. I won't do it, I am just wondering why I shouldn't.

Regarding the third needle. What I am referring to is the one you can see the end of when you open the carb all the way. When I slowly close the carb, the needle end moves toward the cone-shaped inlet.

[dr.dirt]

winning edge designs, thanks for the scoop. i've been rackin my brain(be it ever so humble) trying to decide whether to get the losi or the rc10gt to race off road. most of my buds have gone with the rc10, but I'm thinkin the longer arms will work better on jumps and rough surfaces. The rc10 has a lot more hop ups, but is that because the stock parts are no good for racin. i just dont know. where have I seen that name before winning edge designs. are you a painterthanks again.jim

[StadiumJ]

WinningEdgeDesigns does paint RC bodies (and does excellent work, by the way). You can see his galleries at

http://jconcepts.net

He is also very helpful with virtually any RC problem since he has several years of experience. He is also generous with his time. I had an engine seize up on me and he was willing to check it out if I mailed it to him. Although I didn't take him up on the offer, it just goes to show what a nice guy he is.

[purplerides]

stadium - if you put loctite on the head bolts and/or the backplate bolts you won't get them out , the heat of the motor will seize them in there , i use loctite on the motor mounts , i usually don't put any on th bolts that go through the bottom of the chassis and into the motor mounts the cone shaped washer grip the screw head and keep it tight , and i haven't ever had one come loose , some people do loctite them i did once and there very hard to get out , i just use a good quality allen driver and tighten them as tight as i can get them.

also in the above post there is one area that i do seal that we didn't cover , between the carb. and the block , remove carb. make sure the o-ring stays on the carb. , make sure the o-ring is on all the way (where it normally is when on the block) , then i use a tooth pick an put a thin coat of sealer on the o-ring then slide it on the block , do final positon adjustments and while i still applying pressure pushing the carb. in the block i tighten the cinch bolt. i hope this is clear? again i apply the sealent on the carb. not the block so you don't drag sealent into the block while putting carb. on.

btw only use oxygen sensor safe sealents

[winning edge designs]

Thanks for the kind words,I am trying to have some kind of positive effect on the industry. I'd like to have alot of people to race in the future. It seems to many want to eliminate the competition?....not me.


Dirt,I think the XXX-Nt is a much better truck,both handling and tunability wise. The only thing you'll need to be carefull with is the slipper and diff adjustments. Some racers have tried locking the slipper on the Losi truck,not good! Not only does it make any gas truck harder to drive,it also usually slows lap times,on any but the best drivers in the world! Imagine trying to drive a fullsize car with no clutch,just slam it into gear while hitting the gas pedal every time you take off....Even top fuel cars use clutch management to accelerate as hard as possible without spinning the tires too much!...........In other words,if you use the slipper,the diff will last quite a while and you'll likely be faster as well.
Stadium got you my web address,but i'll add that i've been racing for about 16 years and also that i'm involved in the industry on many levels. I also race everything from a micro RS4,to a Ofna Hyper 7,Kyosho V one R and all of TeamLosi' vehicles. My two sons help me crash test them all,LOL!.........Jim

[Jace2000]

It's been a while since I posted here, but it's good to see that everyone's still rockin' :)
I'm stuffin' my snowboard back in the garage and getting ready to race my XXX-NT for the coming season.
I've noticed that my stock rear axle needs replacing and I'm wondering if I should go for a CVD kit. Should I guys?
Also I've noticed that Trinity's got the CRE kit(TK5073) for the XXX-NT. Does this include the CVD and alu. rear hubs? It's rather expensive and I'm wondering if I'll notice a difference If I install this. I'll appreciate any info about the CRE kit.

Thanks in advance guys~:)

[winning edge designs]

jace,the trinity kit does include the hubs and CVD's,since the CVD's are shorter. It will help with durability if you're breaking rear hubs in hard crashes(I've broken only 1, in almost 2 years). It also supposedly adds durability to the rear bearings,but since the recent batch of bearings seem to be holding up fine,i'm not sure the kit is justfied at such a high price. The adjustable roll centers is a nice addition,but the guys winning the major events for TeamLosi are mostly using the stock roll center adjustments,even with the trinity parts installed........imo,if money is no problem,they look trick........Of course,I also use the stock brake clips,pivot blocks,etc.Until I have a problem breaking these parts myself,my money is better spent on fresh tires & fuel...Jim

[INFERN06]

I have used the MIP cvd's and broken two axles and busted three pins,Since going back to the stock ones I have had no problem.

[purplerides]

jace - yes as Jim indicated them hubs do come with the cvd's , those hubs are supposed to work better on smooth tracks , they change the rear end geometry with the pivot point of the shaft placed closer to the trans. the bears are farther apart from each other in the hub , they also make rear hubs that use the stock lenght drive shafts TK5102 (0 degree) , and TK5103 (2 degree) , they also have the ballstud installed vertically which allows for easy roll center adjustments. i personally use the TK5102's with the stock shafts i like the stock shafts better myself they take more abuse and there's no pin to fall out. The stock shafts are supposed to work better on bumpy tracks and the cvd's are supposed to provide more forward bite on smooth tracks.

[winning edge designs]

God points guys,I forgot to mention,I also use the stopck axles and dogbones in my XXX-Nt,I only use CVd's in my electric stuff. It seems that the long gas mains tear up the CVd's too quickly......Jim

[Jace2000]

Wow~ great answers guys.
It's always a pleasure asking Qs in this thread. Thanks again for the quick answers everyone. I've decided to get stock axles since my local track isn't really considered smooth.
Come to think of it, I remember running CVDs on my GT and they didn't last that long. :(

[StadiumJ]

I just bought a gallon of Wildcat Eliminator. It has 20% nitro and 18% oil. The recommended fuel for the Picco is Trinity Monster Horsepower (surprise). It has only 12% oil. BUT, and here is where the confusion comes, they also recommend that you run several tanks of Trinity Monster Horsepower Break-In fuel. The Break-In fuel has, you guessed it, 18% oil. So what should I do? Should I just run the Wildcat for a few tanks and then switch to Trinity? Or should I just use one or the other. I don't know how oil content affects engine performance, so any help here would be appreciated. Thanks!

[INFERN06]

If you are a hard core racer looking for that 1/10th sec. per lap this may help but in most cases especially in off road the oil content is not going to make you the winner,go with the 18% and run with it.The more oil content the longer the engine will last as long as you tune it right.
I know they reccomend their own stuff but the chances of something going wrong in the engine from different fuel are so slim that it is not even in the equasion.An engine failure is usually from improper tuning or debris in the fuel or air intake a rare case of a piston clip has happened but in most cases it is the care you take of the engine that determines how long it lasts.Enjoy the truck with whatever fuel you decide and run it on the rich side if your not sure.

[Nutter]

Ok, big problem here trying to set up with Adam Drake's standard setup.. the turnbuckles (lunsford) are too long for the front suspension's camber links to mount in positions 3b.. they're ok for 2b (which is what they were in), but not 3b. :(
I tried RPM long shank rod ends origionally but that didn't work so I changed back to the short ones that were on there before, but it's not any better.


-Nutter

[cabbynate]

Nutter

I had to order a set of 2 1/2" from lunsford to set it up that way.
(the reason I had to order them is they were the Super Dutys).

[cabbynate]

StadiumJ

I run Traxxas 20% in my truck. It has 18% oil content and it runs great. I have a CV-R in it but that don't matter. Go with what INFRENO is saying and stick with the Wildcat. Your motor will live longer. ;)

[NItro-Smoke]

Yes Wildcat is great fuel, It runs great with more than enough power!! Oh yea I just got my used T-maxx the other day-what a blast--now I have two vehicles to race on Saturday!

[lositeamdriver]

i am the 1434 person to post on this thread lol... ok has any one seen the new udated rear shock tower i have yet to see it and silver state is coming up and i was wandering if they are stronger then stock thx bubba

[winning edge designs]

Ok,as far as fuels go,as long as your fuel choice has a decent grade of castor oil and At Least 12-14% of that oil you'll be fine. The main ingredient for power is the quality of the alcohol and nitromethane. That's what really seperates the fuels,quality,not quantity. Keep in mind,if you run a fuel with less oil,you'll have a more critical window for engine tuning. The more oil content the more room for error. Even the so called "break-in" fuels can fry an engine if it's run lean enough. EVERY manufacturer says to run-in the engine with the fuel you'll race with. Except Trinity,since they'd like to sell two jugs of fuel to thier customers. Of course if this works,most of the other fuel companies will follow trinity's lead,as usual.........Use race fuel for running-in,and run it rich. Then lean it down slowly until you get near race settings. More importantly,whenever you change fuels,retune the engine from initial run-in settings.


For a shorter camber link up front,have you tried cutting down the ballcups a bit? Even the short ones can be cut down quite a bit before they bottom out. I do this in a pinch,rather then buying 3 or 4 pairs of extra turnbuckles.


The new rear shock tower is webbed,in the support areas,where it sometime cracks on rear body landings. It is much stronger,I have yet to break the new design towers..........Jim

[INFERN06]

Is there a new part number for the new shock towers?

[purplerides]

inferno - same part # they have been out for a while now , i would imagine all of the old ones have bought up and long gone , all the shock towers my local hobby shop has gotten since early Oct. have been the new ones , my buddy had broke his and i always carry a spare and the next week when he gave me a new to replace the one he got from me , i just put it in my pit box and didn't even realize it was the improved version until later in the week when i was putting everything back where it belongs in the pit box then i noticed it was the newer one.

[Nutter]

Jim: It's not that the rod ends are too long, it's that they're bottoming out.. if I do them up any more they bend at the ball joint, not along the shank like they would if that was the problem. :( I don't want to buy another set of front & rear turnbuckles for the camber links.. gurr!


-Nutter

[Railman]

Nutter, why don't you just trim the rod a tad? I did that on my GT when I put T3 steering arms on. Worked fine. If you go back to the old setup, the cups will be long enough anyway. Just a thought.
Joe

[PJCruz]

Guys, I am MAJORLY screwed. I am going to need to find me a tub of Vaseline for my pit box. I went to LHS to get some stuff for the race and check out the NEW layout of the track.

I wanted to get extra suspension arms, maybe shock towers, firm inserts, and an orange spring. I was going to try Drake's std setup. Well, they had nothing on hand. So, heck ok I"ll go with the standard setup. One of the guys there has a xxx-nt and he says it hooks up great on the track. I picked up some losi wheels (white eck!!)some shock oil, and something else. Anyways.. I managed to see them setting up the final touches on the track...

ARE YOU KIDDING!!!! Man, the track is INSANE!!! They are elevation changes of like 5 feet in some areas. I shoulda got a TMaxx =) It looks like a mini version of the rocky mountains. I will bring my camera and take some shots. I'm going to have to take this track nice and easy. I'm sure with no spare parts, and none in stock... it will be a war of attrition. They have some doubles and triples with first jump is about 3 foot high (climb) and the 2nd or 3rd mound is higher than the first.. It's gonna be tough.

Well, it's been a while for me since I have "raced" my nitro car. Any suggestions for the night before the race to finalize. I am planning to get everything charging and get my other radio crystal out of the nitro car as a spare.

Thanks

[lositeamdriver]

pjcruz just walk the track if you run it roll all the jumps find all the "pot holes" and ruts just be smooth and gentle with the car dont try to catch the person in front of you if you are behind just run your own race and do well..good luck...also you havent seen big jumps till you check out vegas track we get some mad air!

[PJCruz]

Man, that is kewl. How do the trucks survive? Any tips on keeping my truck whole? With all that air I'm sure something will pay.

What parts are likely to go?? Tips on jumping and landing on the tires?

=)

Pete

[cabbynate]

PJ

That truck is about 7 feet in the air and if it lands on the down side of the table top it will have traveled about 15 feet. Try to land the down side of the jumps if you can. On that type of jump you run at it at smooth and tap the breaks in mid air and the nose of your truck comes down so sweet. It is all about timing, you will get the feel for your track after you run on it.

As far as parts go, front arms and battery boxs if you can't get that front end down. I have not broken a battery box yet(knock wood)but a lot of people have. If you run smooth you should have no problems. If the track is fresh you may get away with the tires the truck came with. Taper-pins / Directionals. ;)

[Nutter]

Railman: hrm.. I don't really want to cut the titanium turnbuckles.. guess I'll have to get some shorter ones. I think I'll send an email to Lunsford about this.. they should make their turnbuckles the right length for atleast the most popular setups! :mad:


-Nutter

[winning edge designs]

nutter,railman has a good point. If your close on the length like an 1/8 inch too long or so,you could dremel a few threads off each end. Just wear some glasses and watch for the heat,the buggers get really hot since they are mostly aluminum!..............Jim

[losifreak2004]

Lositeamdriver - I guess I will see you in Vegas!

Nate - The NT comes with Reptiles LOL

PJ - It's an old MX trick I learned when I was five, just like lositeamdriver said, you walk the track before qualifying and the mains start. Make mental notes of where the ruts are going to develop, where the track is more likely to dry out, where to square off the berms, etc. At the Nitro Challenge, I started turning into the first corner at the first hay bale, hit the jump lined up with the end of the back wall, jump into the hole, rail the first berm to the cone, square it off and aim for the second berm, square that off at the takeoff ramp to the jump behind it.

If you make little notes like that, and stick to them, your lap times will be getting skinny faster than the Subway guy!

To jump, look at what you are trying to accomplish. For bigger jumps, let off at the base of the takeoff, then accelerate up the ramp. You should be able to remain about 1/2 throttle for a smooth landing, but use the gas/brake to adjust the car while it is in the air (another MX trick, gas will bring the front up, the brake drops it down). For a long jump, hit it with as much speed as possible, and let off when you get in the air.

Did I miss anything?

Aaron

[cabbynate]

Step-pins/Directionals
My bad.:p

[lositeamdriver]

Aaron i will you see you then are you coming out this weekend end or next weekend ? adam drake and degani is suposed to show with some others ?

[cabbynate]

There here.:)

[losifreak2004]

They will be out there, along with a few other Losi drivers. My girlfriend has softball tryouts this weekend, so I'm going to be supportive :p and stay in CA this weekend. I will be out there Wednesday night (March 6th) through Sunday.

[StadiumJ]

Ok, I finally got the replacement parts for my engine. But upon further examination there is another problem. When I spin the flywheel it feels "gritty". I took the entire engine apart. I removed the crank and cleaned the bearings & crankcase with denatured alcohol. I then coated everything with after-run oil and put the crank back in. It's still gritty. In my mind there has to be something wrong with the bearings. This truck has only had 6 tanks of fuel through it and has never been above half throttle. How could I screw them up so fast? I've spent so much friggin money on this damn thing and I've had nothing but problems. When I got into this hobby I figured I'd have alot of fun and do some work as well. So far it has been all work. I just didn't expect to be rebuilding engines yet! My friend, who bought his RTR at the same time a month ago, has run through a gallon of fuel already. Enough ranting, let me ask a few questions.

My LHS said that they can't fix my truck because the don't have a "puller", which is apparently a tool needed to remove the bearings. Horizon Hobby won't do any warranty work on the engine since it's a "racing engine". So my question is this, will these guys fix my engine for a fee? There doesn't seem to be anywhere local that has the necessary tools to do it. I'm going to go stare at my useless engine some more. :mad: :mad: :mad:

[INFERN06]

Here is an old trick,take everything off of the engine block and put the bare block with only bearings in it on top of a stove element that is hot.Wait 7- 10 minuits and then pick up the block using heat resistant gloves or oven mitts.Smack the back side of the block against a soft peice of wood and do it as flat as possible.The idea here is to let the heat expand the aluminum block so the bearing will slip out and by doing it this way gravity will be the puller.
Once the bearing is out do what is necessary to clean/replace it.
To re-install the bearing I use the crank,put the bearing on the crank with a large diameter washer that presses the outer race of the bearing against the crank counter weight,you do not want pressure against the inner race for installation as this will cause dents or cracks inside the bearing.You do not need to heat the block for this.Slowly tap the fresh bearing back into place.In a pinch you can use a socket from a tool kit that is the same outer diam. as the outer race of the bearing.
Good luck and hope it just needs cleaning.:D

[INFERN06]

And hey ,if ya have any questions I will be happy to help you as I work at my local hobby shop and this is what I do.Except you are a ways away and I can't actually do it for you so I'll guide ya thru it.

[PJCruz]

OK guys, day 1 is complete and I have to say.. I think I did much better than expected. Apparently the track LOOKS scary (at least it did), but once I got out there it was no trouble.

I took my Race Built Losi and Picco 12 (4 tanks thru it so far). I managed to run 2 more tanks in the pits before my first heat controlling the throttle by hand. I did the whole cool down, piston bottom dead center, etc. I slowly leaned out the needles listening carefully and taking the temp. When it was time for my first qualifier, I was gased up and ready to go... still running rich like mad but I made sure to keep the throttle going to keep it from dying.

Still it was still so rich I KNEW I was not going to outrun or outrace anyone. So instead of "racing" I was just going to run the track at a comfy pace.. and let the motor break in some. I just rolled over the "jumps" rather than taking doubles and triples. Well, I won heat #1 basically by default.. everyone either killed thier trucks or flamed out. I was the last one left running.. and nailed my first ever completed heat. I was PUMPED. By the end of the heat I was getting on the throttle more on the straightaway and letting the picco do it's thing. (Stats: 6 laps in 5:09)

For Heat two, I switched from the Losi Step Pin rears to the Proline Boe-ties M3 compound (the hooked up tire for this track apparently). Mistake #1. Either the track was so dusty and needed a watering or the tires just sucked.. I felt like I was on ice. Also, with all the sliding around.. somewhere I tagged a wall or something and managed the strip the steering servo gears. Didn't discover that until after the heat was over at my pit table. I didn't have another servo with me (I have 3 more at home). Lastly, I got off to a late start with my truck as the starter box began running dry.. and we couldn't get the picco started for the 2nd heat. Well, we removed the body, FINALLY got it started, put the body back on while reving.. and got out there. I missed the start of the heat.. but managed a decent 5 laps in 5:10? I forgot the exact time.

Well, I didn't hang around for my last heat today since my steering was caput. I will try installing one of my mulitplex servos for the steering. I believe it's a metal gear one.. and has almost 200oz of holding power (digitial servo). I shouldn't need to worry about stripping this one eh?

Other than that.. tomorrow I will probably make it for the main whichever I qualify for. I don't think I'll make it in time for the last chance qualifier.. esp since I need to install a new servo. Is that going to take long?? The JR servo and mulitplex servo share the same horn and everything according to the manual.

THanks for listening guys.

Pete

PS: I did begin taking some of the jumps in my last heat.. and really had little trouble. The tricky TRIPLE, I manged to nail as a double and roll the last one. =) Theres no straightaway before that triple.. it's a S curve. Really tight unless you have .21 power =-)

[winning edge designs]

stadiumJ,you can remove the bearings without any special tools,as long as you have three things,well four or five. 1)patience 2)an oven mitt 3)a peice of wood 4)an oven at about 200 degrees.......Put the bare block with bearings in the oven for about 3 minutes. Using your oven mitts,and a block of wood you'll be able to use an 5)allen driver and small hammer to punch out the bearings. Take your time,only tap on the outer race area. Keep in mind you'll need to be even more carefull installing the new bearings and will need to reheat the block as well. Even putting the bearings in the fridge for 15 minutes or so will help installation It's all about expansion and contraction,heh.............Hope this helps you out,Jim

[dr.dirt]

Hi guys; I just bought a special edition xxxnt! It should be here wednesday. I've been reading this board for a while but didn't have a lot of questions till now. Any thoughts on what to look for 1st, 2nd etc, I'd appreciate it. Thanks, Jim P.S. My son and I have our first off road race next sat indoors on a carpet track. Anyone ever play on carpet. Do we get rugburns??:D

[Nutter]

Originally posted by dr.dirt
Any thoughts on what to look for 1st, 2nd etc, I'd appreciate it.
umm.. What do you mean "what to look for 1st, 2nd etc"? Do you mean what adjustments & things to check before you run the truck for the first time? If so, check the slipper and diff adjustments to make sure that the slipper will slip before the diff, check that there's no binding in the drive train, check that there's also no binding in any of the suspension, and also check that the wheels move freely. You shouldn't have any problems like that however as Losi's are great quality. ;)


-Nutter

[dr.dirt]

thanks for getting right back nutter. This is not my first truck, but i've never built one either. how good is the book for info on diff adjustments and such.

[winning edge designs]

dr.dirt,if you read the instructions you'll be ahead if about 60% of the people who bought any RTR vehicles.:). They are actually Very helpfull and will get you on the right track.....no pun intended....Jim

[Jace2000]

Wass up everyone,
Has everyone here switched over to the new rear shock tower yet? I've got 2 more of the older version laying around in my room and I'm wondering wether I should lose these and go for the new one. Is the new shock tower much more rigid than the older ones? Also, is Stormer Hobbies shipping the newer version?

I've been trying to find some good XXX-NT pics for days but most aren't really centered on XXX-NT or are of so-so quality. Can you guys recommend any good links where they might have some good XXX-NT pics?

[PJCruz]

Ok guys... well. I had to watch my son this morning while my wife was at work. She got tied up at work and didn't get home till nearly 1pm. Well, I missed the Last Chance Qualifier.. but since I had no steering servo it wouldn't have mattered anyways. I was hoping to make it there in time for my main, once they had it all sorted out.

Well, I got there and they hadn't started the mains yet. Yippee!! SO I got to work on the servo deal. Well, the 2 mulitplex's I brought from home DIDN'T fit and the cases they had were crappy. They were crumpling and breaking in my hands. Wasn't going to cut it. So I gave in and bought a FutabaS9404 steering servo. Everyone says it's a real good one.. so we'll see.

By the time I got everything sorted out and installed (I missed my main booohooo).I had to hunt down a servo horn for the futaba since the ready to race kit came with JR and they didn't have any JR's at the Hobby Shop, and I didn't get any other servo horns in the kit. So away I went.. finally I found a racer who had one.. I bought him lunch and back to wrenching I went. I had the toughest time trying to line up the servo with the holes in the chassis and upper deck. Lazy me thought it would have been easier and less hassle to just partially undo the deck and slip the servo underneath... well, after missing the main.. I was like.. the hell with it. And removed the 6 screws I needed too... and it was a piece of cake from there (if I did it that way from the start I MAY have made it).

Once I got the servo installed the upper deck set back in.. hooked everythingup and checked the servo function, I decided to fire up the truck just to run a tank at idle to get the picco some more heat cycles. Well, I COULD NOT get the engine started. My box would crank and hum, and the starter wheel would get chewed up etc. The piston kept getting stuck TOP DEAD CENTER.. which is normal for engines with high compression. However I had NO TROUBLE yesterday, until late in the day when the box ran low on batteries.. seems like it didn't have enough juice to turn it over anyhmore.

SHould I be worried about the picco? I mean it's getting stuck TOP DEAD CENTER.. and I CAN "unstuck" it with my fingers turning the flywheel from underneath... I am thinking perhaps my starter box DID NOT get a good charge last night. It's an OFNA box with POWER PANEL. I noticed that the "power lights" did not turn on today, which happens when the wires to the panel fall off their connection on the gel cell. Maybe they came off BEFORE I charged it last night and the battery NEVER got a charge. Sound feasible?

After this day I was like heck with it all.. I'll go home and put it all away for a few days. I didn't even want to try someone else's starter box.

Anyways, for the curious.. in my FIRST offroad race... I won heat 1, think I finished 3rd or 4th in the 2nd heat.. and missed heats 3 and 4. I qualified for the B main which I never raced in. Oh well. With my luck I would have gotten bumped up and had to stay very late for the 30 min main.. and risk listening to the wife when I got home.. AFTER flaming out in the A main =)

Thanks guys...

Pete

[Racin Rev]

PJCruz,
It is hard to believe that you ran the battery completely down on your starter.

1 Was it fully charged when you started?

2 Are you having to crank it a long time to get it started?

3 Are you using the power panel to heat the glow plug?

4 Are you moving the piston off of tdc before cranking (or better, right after running, (remember our friend Stadium J's problem)?

5 Are you hydrolocking the piston?

I have a similar starter box (actually, an exact copy with a duratrax decal instead of ofna) and have never had that problem. I don't, however, use the power panel, preferring instead to use a seperate glow heater with a nimh cell (and a spare) Glow heaters suck up the juice and I am not sure what the draw is with the two motors spinning and the glow heaters on. I am guessing that you don't get nearly the heat to the plug that you would get with an independant unit.

Also, one of the things that I have observed is that many people, particularly new people, put the glow heater on the engine and leave it there for way too long. It should go on immediately before starting and be removed very soon after starting (unless you are trying to fix a dyeing problem in which case you either need to up the idle or replace the glow plug [or both] or possibly adjust the fuel mixture, the mixture problem would be the only one you would really need [or want, remember these are about 1 hp even though they are small] to do with the engine running. )

[Racin Rev]

It sounds like you also might be hydrolocking the piston. That is, getting too much fuel into the piston and making the piston not turn or turn with great effort. Try backing the glow plug out about a turn to releave the pressure and try to start it. it should start and run while you twist the plug back down tight. it also might not be broken in enough. Was it a cold day? you might need to apply some heat to it to get the parts to expand before starting.

Another thing that you might want to do with your starter box is to solder the connections with good 12 gage wire for a better connection with less resistance.

I had a lot on alignment problems with that box while trying to start it lengthwise. I eventually set it up for sidewise starts. This involved drilling some holes in the upper plate of the starter box, into which I put nuts and bolts. it is a static set up but it always alignes correctly.

I hope that this isn't way too much information and that some of it addresses your problems.

[losifreak2004]

Guaranteed stop to hydrolocking! (Well, I've never had one since doing with LOL

Pick up a pressure fitting (Ofna makes them, I use the 90 degree purple one) and drill a hole in the cap a little smaller than the fitting, making sure you get through both layers of the tank and don't hit the screw in the middle of it (either take the lid off or put a towel over the tank opening, DON'T LET ANY PLASTIC SHAVINGS IN THE TANK!). Also, don't try to put the fitting in the neck of the tank lid. When you thread the fitting in you will distort the shape of the neck and the cap won't create a tight seal.

Thread the fitting into the cap, and put a little dab of sealant around it once you have it threaded in. Then take a 4-40 screw and thread it into the old pressure fitting (the one not in the middile of the tank) I use a purple button head screw. You might want to put a dab of sealant on this screw, although you shouldn't need to. I believe I also cut about an 1/8 of an inch or so off the top of the old fitting.

Once you have all of the tubing back on, go over to the sink or tub and fill it about six inches deep with water. Plug the fuel inlet hose with one finger, submerge the tank and the first inch of each tube in the water, and blow into the pressure hose. If you see bubbles, check all the seals (could be a hole in the tank also).

Hope that helps!

Aaron

[PJCruz]

Ok, I did try to restart the truck again today before heading off to work.. but some of you have asked this and that. Since you all have been so great to me in helping me out.. Allow me to answer these questions to better help you help me ;-)

1 Was it fully charged when you started?
I think it was.. I charged it overnight both Fri to Sat and Sat to Sun. I have a 12 volt gel cell in there. I recharge the box using the plug inputs on the front.. and connect the charger plugs there.

2 Are you having to crank it a long time to get it started?
Well, on Sat not too bad.. mainly it was an issue of "alignment." But one Sun, it just wasn't turning over.. even for several seconds.

3 Are you using the power panel to heat the glow plug?
No, I DID buy the glow panel igniter.... but need to attach the bannana plugs to it still. I used a NiCD rechargeable igniter (Hot Shot 2). It also was charged over night both nights.


4 Are you moving the piston off of tdc before cranking (or better, right after running, (remember our friend Stadium J's problem)?
Yes, each time I turn off the motor, I ALWAYS move the flywheel to make sure the piston is BDC. ALWAYS.. even after break in. Just habit. My problem is it seems to catch on the flywheel and either halt the starter wheel when the piston sticks.. But if I try to turn the flywheel with my fingers I can free it and move it to BDC and start over.

5 Are you hydrolocking the piston?
I thought about that. I'm thinking it's a combo of hydrolock AND my starter box being not 100%. I removed the glow plug AND the air filter.. and turned the truck over and shook it pretty good. I did find some fuel collecting at the mouth of the filter boot. ALthough not enough to lock it I would think... nothing from the glow hole. If I crank it with no plug installed.. it will spray fuel from the hole.. until I sticks. Sometimes it does.. sometimes it doesn't.

How can I loosen the plug to relieve some compression and yet STILL heat the plug to start it. If I could do this I could probably get it going. My igniter I need to twist to clamp and this would not allow me to get it in place.

Also, regarding the starter box... if the little wires that connect the power panel to the battery lose their connection, would the starter box NOT accept a charge from the plugs on the panel panel? OR it is connected with other wires too? I don't have the box handy to check myself. My power panel has the 12v plugs on the right, and glow driver "adjustment" screw, and the plugs for the glow igniter. It also has a small button that shows the battery level (3 lights, red, yellow and green). When I got to the track Sunday.. I noticed the lights were NOT working (i.e. the panel wasn't connected to the battery). If that's the case, perhaps the panel came disconnected overnight and never got a full nights charge..

THanks guys.... I'm going to recharge the box again.. and work with a hair dryer to try to get the picco going again.

[losifreak2004]

The battery thing is entirely possible. If you still have problems, go to a local motorcycle shop and pick up a Yuasa YTX14 battery. It fits in their without the mounts, just two-sided tape it in there. It stays strong for two full race days.

Even with the plug unscrewed it should start, but you don't even need to do that. If it hydrolocks, loosen the plug, turn it over for about three seconds, then tighten it back down and it SHOULD start. If not, loosen the plug, then put your igniter on it and start it, then tighten the plug down.

Aaron

[StadiumJ]

I took my engine down to the guys at my LHS. They don't feel the "grittiness" that I do. The say they just feel like "tight" bearings. They said that there is no play and therefore the bearings are good. So with that vote of confidence I decided to rebuild the engine.

I didn't have any problems putting it together (except for those damn little circlips that hold the wristpin in :) ). I used a thin layer of high temp gasket maker on the backplate, exhaust, and carb. I used medium strength Loctite on the clutch nut and the mounting screws. I let it set overnight before attempting to start.

The next day was spend trying to get it to start. I worked with it playing with the tendencies that seem to exist in new Picco engines. I have to unscrew the glow plug about an 1/8th of a turn in order for the box to beat the compression. Then it seems to flood VERY easily. I take the glow plug off and turn it over for about 2 seconds and spit a bunch of gas out. Then start the process over again. If at any time the piston gets stuck at the top (which does happen alot) I heat the engine with a hair dryer before unsticking it by hand. I finally got it to start (which means I didn't totally !%#* the engine up when I rebuilt it, hooray!!!) But the problem was that it would immediately die after starting. I'm trying to play with needle settings now.

In the instructions they say to go out 2 turns out on the low end needle and 2.5 out on the high end. Now, when they say "turn" do they mean one 360 degree turn or one 180 degree turn? I tried both, but it seems my adjustments weren't helping. How out should I set ALL of the needles for break-in purposes? (Please tell me in degrees, thanks :)) I understand that I need to get the engine up to operating temperature (about 200) for 10 heat cycles. BUT, I want to make sure not to go over 230. After that I can gradually lean out the high end needle for peak performance. But where do I start? Thanks for the help.

[NItro-Smoke]

Your are getting there man, 1 turn means 360 degrees! Try and up your idle speed a little to help it run for break-in and leave the glow plug on a little longer too until you build a little heat up in there. If it still likes to die, lean the low end a tad and if its still not ideling to high bring it up a little more to help you out......hope this gets you going

[NItro-Smoke]

I think your whole problem may be the starter box! When I first got my ofna box I had the 12v gel cell and it would NOT start my CV-R no matter what (no turn over) I ended up frying both electric motors on that thing! So off to the hobby shop and they took the box back, so I got me the 99.00 dynamite ultrastart with twin motors and I had some good 6-cell battery packs(2) and connected them up and WOW what a differance--the extra amps from two 6cell packs do the trick and I have never had a problem again!! :D

[Racin Rev]

Nitro-smoke I have the dreaded starter box in question and a cvr and never had a problem starting the engine. There were some problems in aligning the starter wheel to the flywheel, particularly with the rather small opening in the pan to go into. but the remedy was to make permenant posts on the box (see previous). The only problem i had with starting was the engine wanted to hydro lock the first few times. Once it was broken in it has been fine.

PJ Cruz, the technique works like this: Unscrew the glow plug 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn. Put the igniter on the glow plug (you may have to hold it down on the plug if it is tight and won't twist on. this requires either considerable dexterity or an assistant [recomended]). It should heat the plug without having to twist it into place. engage the flywheel and crank normally. when the engine catches remove the heater and quickly retighten the glow plug in the head. I have had much success with this method.

I agree that the disconnected wire might be the problem with the battery. I don't have the power panel on mine but the other components seem to be wired in series. if you charge through the power panel and it is disconnected that could be the problem. Again i would urge you to solder the connections. they are less likely to come loose and will give you a little more power. :)

[ronin8451]

The best thing to do is to throw away the wiring that comes with it and rewire it using Deans 12ga. silicon wire like the electric guys use and solder all the joints except for the battery. I have done this and added a bannana plug for charging and no more stalls, unless I'm not lined up and the wheel hits the chassis! I have the CVR .12 and it spins it fine, I've even busted off my Crono .21 CLB on it ( it did kinda bogged at first).:D

[drdirt]

hi guys; my buddy called me mon am to tell me that his 2 day old 1/10 ofna box was cooked and that he was calling tower to order the 1/8 box instead. I got home in time to change mine to the 1/8 also. Question is do you think that we should have to rewire the 1/8 box also??

[winning edge designs]

drdirt,unfortunatly the wiring they use in ALL the starter boxes is the cheapest stuff they can get thier hands on. So you'll be better off replacing the wiring,but it might not be needed?........I found the biggest help in turning over my engines is a little clearancing on the chassis edges. I beveled the front and rear 45 degrees around the flywheel access hole. Now the starter wheel doesn't rub as easy.................Jim

[Racin Rev]

Jim,
pinky on the HPI forum said he did the same thing and also reported success.

[PJCruz]

Thanks guys. You guys totally rule!!! I personally think it's the box and not the motor., I can spin the flywheel free when it sticks with my finger.. and the box comes to a halt when it sticks. I'll go into it this week, clean it out.. and perhaps rewire it and solder the connections. Maybe add some more =)

Despite not able to race in the B main and from what I have seen at the track this past weekend.. I am confident that with a broken in engine, and a new steering servo.. I could have made it in the A main this weekend. I qualified for B main with my first run and I was running the engine super rich... if I got off the throttle it would bog and stall.. so I was blipping it the whole time. ANyways... once the 2nd heat came I was nailing doubles and triples and landing pretty much all the jumps. My steering was totally off.. since my servo crapped the bed (thanks to some hack who slammed me into a wall somewhere ;-)

ANyways.... thanks for the help again guys.. Losi rules!!! I'll keep you all posted on the box.

Pete

[Nutter]

My starter box hates me too.. :p
I use 2 7.2v batteries to power it at the track and it works fine (still has the stock wiring even), but at home I use a truck battery, however the truck battery (fully charged) doesn't have the voltage to keep the starter box turning the engine over, so I hook the battery charger up to the truck battery.. works a charm! :D hehe


-Nutter

[PJCruz]

Guys, check out

http://www.nitrocross.com

They have the results and a gallery section for the race this past weekend. It was "round1" of the "Invitationals" at J's Action RC. Some of the buggies got major air there... I was corner marshalling the "sportsman" 1/8scale buggies.. at the end of the triple.. man, I ran for my life after each heat... =)

Pete

[drdirt]

ok, thanks a lot guys. I really appreciate it. My little group is going to be racing in harrisburg, pa this sat if we can all get our new engines broke in. My first picco and I can't wait.........go fast, crash big, buy more parts..........what a great hobby:D

[tarvymoto]

Are you guys racing at a track/club or are you racing your buddies? Just wondering because Harrisburg isn't to far from me. Travis

[purplerides]

Travis - have you ever raced at motorama? at the harrisburg farm complex , i usually go there every year , i won there 3 years ago , i didn't go this year once of my race buddies did go thouth and he TQ'd and one gas truck , i race in Vineland N.J. there season starts the first weekend in April try to get down there sometime this season it's a really nice track it's about 1 1/2 - 2 hours from harrisburg , i also race on a rae occasion in Mt. Joy which is up your way not far from harrisburg. dr.dirt have you ever been to vineland your pretty far north of me. check out there web site http://familyhobbies.20m.com if you guys plan on coming down sometime this year let me know.

[drdirt]

Travis, This saturday is opening nite of a track put together by chris Mckinney (spelling) He posted it on this board in the track thread under new track in central pa. We've never met, but there is 7 of us from the penn jersey nitro club that are gonna go check it out. Check out his post and maybe we'll see you there. Jim

[tarvymoto]

Purplerides , I'm definately going to make a few races at Vineland this spring/summer. I've never been there but I've seen thier site and pics of the track-It looks SWEET!!!

Drdirt , Is that the indoor carpet track or is it dirt?

[StadiumJ]

Ok, I have gone from confused to dumbfounded. If you can explain this then you are my hero. When I follow the instructions the truck will not start. With the low end needle 2 turns out, the engine gets zero gas. I have to turn it out to over 5 turns to get it to start. With the high end 2.5 turns out, absolutely no smoke or oil comes out of the exhaust. I have to turn it 7-8 turns out before I start to see a little bit of unspent gas coming from the stinger (But still no smoke).:(

Needless to say I am clueless as to what to do next. I've tried starting over with the needles more than once. But like I said, with the "factory setttings" the engine gets no gas. I am trying to get the thing to run at 200 so I can break it in. What it does is start up, idle around 150, then the idle starts to speed up, and faster, and faster, and faster (it never stops speeding up), pretty soon the temp is near 230 and I kill the engine. I am *this* close to throwing the engine in the garbage can and buying an O.S. With the needles SO whacked, I can't help but think something is wrong. Please help!

[Racin Rev]

I am sorry to say that I am not vying for hero.

More information would be helpful. like:

1 once you do get running and you bip the throttle how does it respond? Does it accelerate immediately or does it bog down.

2 when you are attempting to start what are you doing with the throttle (if anything)? does your radio have a step up setting for starting?

3 where is your idle set. how big is the opening on the barrel/slide with the air filter off and the car sitting at idle.

4 what are you using for fuel (brand, nitro content and oil content)?

5 have you attempted to run fuel out of the fuel line in order to check for a fuel line blockage or partial blockage (including the pressure side of the tank)?

Answers to all of these would help.

another thing that you might try is to return to your prescribed settings from the book. Then richen both screws about a 1/2 turn. try it. The idle circuit on most carbs (I think in r/c too) is connected to the main circuit. If you are running too lean on the main the fuel will never get to the idle circuit in sufficient quantity. Richening the main circuit (high end) may have the effect of richening the low end also. Worth a try.

Also, referring to question #2, often you need to open the throttle a little when attempting to start the engine. I don't know if any engine books ever say anything about this but many radios have a special switch that can bump the throttle up a certain amount which is then turned down when the engine is somewhat warmed up.

Also, also, I am of the opinion that proper break in is done while moving the car. drive the car slowly start out by staying below half throttle but speeding up and slowing down again. This helps you to get to operating temp while providing cooling to the head (but not too much you need some heat to get the metals properly expanded so that they mate properly. It will also actually allow the engine to lubricate better because an engine not under load requires almost no fuel to keep it running but the partial load forces more cooling and lubricating fuel through the system.

The disclaimer, this is my opinion and other sources have different opinions about break in practices. One of the recent editions of one of the magazines (I think rcca) has an article to this effect and it makes sense to me.

[purplerides]

the other thing i'm curious about is when you sealed the carb. did you seal the bango fitting like you were talking about doing in earlier post , if you did are you sure no sealer got into carb. i've seen were guys put to much sealer in there and some sealer got stuck in the spray bar.

[StadiumJ]

I am trying to follow the lead of the article you are mentioning. I am trying to get it to idle at 200, then I'll start moving. Is this the wrong way to do it?

1. If I lightly blip the throttle, it gives a good/quick response. If I try to move (real blip), the car dies immediately.

2. I usually don't do anything. If it seems to be turning over easily but not starting, then I'll give it a little gas. But this is almost never the case. It is almost always flooding and hydrolocking. It is almost always very difficult for my starter box to turn it over. When I do get it to turn over it usually starts.

3. That's hard to say. I started with about a millimeter's space (like the stupid book said) but when it started it was idling VERY VERY high. I played with the idle for hours until it would idle at a reasonable speed. Note: When I first got this lemon I didn't move any needles at all, as I was instructed. When I started it up with the factory settings the idle was VERY VERY high. It was dark when I gave up so I don't know where it is now.

4. Wildcat Eliminator, 20% nitro, 18% oil.

5. No, and I'm not sure what you mean. The fuel does move (it has to in order to idle).

I have tried returning the screws to the factory setting several times. As I said, when I do this the truck will not start. FROM THE PRESCRIBED SETTINGS: I have to richen the low end WAY past 2 turns in order to get ANY gas into the engine. Then it idles VERY high and very dry. I then go through the idle torture. When it is idling somewhat calmly, I then richen the high end over and over and over again until I see some gas dripping from the stinger. I still don't see any smoke. At this point (which is where I am now) the car will start. I will idle calmly at 150 in the beginning. Then idle speed will slowly but constantly increase (over a period of about a minute) until it is screaming loud and nearing 230. At this point I shut if off since I'm trying not to go over 230. When I have tried to do a few laps (thinking that might help) it dies immediately when I give it gas. Then I wonder how in the world these stupid instructions could be SO far off. :mad: I have no idea what I should do next.

Purplerides, no, I only put a thin layer of sealant on the backplate, the o-ring for the carb fitting, and the exhaust.

[StevePond]

SJ - Lemme see if there's anything I can do to help you.

For starters, forget worrying about how much smoke is coming from the pipe. It doesn't matter. Newer fuel has more sophisticated lubricant and it doesn't always smoke. Looking for smoke is a recipe for disaster.

Next, if the engine only has about 6 tanks through it, I'm guessing it's still got good compression. Just to eliminate it as a possiblity, spin the engine with your pointer finger by the flywheel through the bottom of the chassis. If you can feel considerable resistance as the piston reaches the top of the stroke without the pressure leaking out immediately, you're OK. If you can make it through one full revolution with a significant increase in resistance at some point, then you've lost too much compression.

Assuming everything is OK there, then it's time to change the glowplug. It's easy to tell if a plug is working or not, but it may be fouled from running too rich, or burned from running too lean. If you're this frustrated already, spend the 3 to 4 bucks to get a fresh plug. I suggest you get a McCoy MC59.

Make sure you're starting the engine in the proper direction. When you look at the engine from the right side of the truck (passenger side where the carb is installed), the engine's flywheel should be turning counterclockwise. IT sounds silly, but these engines will start going backwards and it'll drive you nuts because it will flame out when you hit the gas.

The Picco engines like to shake the idle speed screw loose from the carb. Take a small section of fuel tubing (about 3/16" and place it over the idle speed screw. It helps keep it in place.

Assuming everything is still OK, get the engine started AND LET IT WARM UP A LITTLE if possible. We'll worry about the low end first. pinch the fuel line and tell me if the engine dies right away, takes a long time to rev up then dies, or revs up rather quickly and dies within five seconds. If the engine dies right away, the low-speed needle is too lean. If the engine takes a long time to rev up, then eventually dies, the low speed needle is too rich. The engine should rev up and die in about five seconds. That tells you that you're in the ballpark for the low-speed needle setting.

If you get this far, you're doing OK. Let me know if this helps. I'm heading home so I'll check back in later to see if you need help with the high speed setting. Trust me, it's not 4 or 5 or 6 turns out so you can see stuff dripping from the pipe. That's way to rich. Try setting it to about 1.5 to 2 turns out. Be sure not to ream the mixture screw down too tight when you turn it in to "zero." Turn it just until it's a little snug, then back it out just a turn and a half or two.

[StadiumJ]

Steve, I have tried everything you said. I understand the basics of tuning, but my confusion is multplied when my settings are SO far off of what the book says. To answer your questions:

The compression is good, almost too good :). I replaced the original piston/sleeve/conrod after 6 tanks so I'm basically working with a brand new engine again.
I check the glow plug regularly. I have 6 MC 59's as back up.
I am starting it in the right direction.
It definately idles, but the idle speeds up over time and never stops speeding up. Eventually I shut it off before it hits 230.

My problem is that I have nowhere to start because the recommended needle settings are so far off. I have heard from a few people who seem to think my problem is a blocked fuel line. I am going to take the truck apart (again :mad: ) and test the tank/pressure lines. How can I attach the pressure hose to the pipe without pinching it too hard? Is there some kind of fitting that will work with the hole in the pipe?

If there is nothing wrong with the tank/lines, then I'll do the pinch the fuel line test and tell you how it went. Frankly, I don't even wan to start it right now until I have an idea of what to do next.

[tl-xxx-nt-24]

i just got the ofna true start universal starter box and where do you guys set the posts at for your xxx-nt

[Racin Rev]

tlxxxnt24
I set mine up so that the car is started perpendicular to the starter box. This worked the best for me. because of the very narrow slot in which to align the wheel to the flywheel I wasn't comfortable trying to use it the other way. (some others bevel the opening of the pan to the flywheel with some success. I may try this but havn't yet.) In order to set the truck precisely where I wanted it to be I drilled holes in the top pan and ran bolts up from the underside and placed nuts on the top. the pan of the truck actually aligns with the nuts (quite snugly) but the bolt ends provide a guide to lay the truck where it needs to be quickly. I tried to find location points where the pan changed shape (got bigger and smaller) so that there could be no mistake in alignment. This works for me. good luck :)

[Racin Rev]

Stadium J
When you get the engine running what does it sound like? does it sound like it is 4 stokeing? i.e. hitting on every other revolution? or is it smooth and normal sounding?

if you turn the truck on the side where the stinger comes out do you get a lot of oil coming out?

I am still betting that you are too rich. try this: 1 take note of where the settings are when the engine starts. 2 start the engine. 3 turn your screws in (clockwise) half a turn at a time Start with the high speed and then the low speed. Half turn high and then a half turn low and so on. if there is is big differance between the high and the low split the differance (half turn one quarter turn the other) until you get the settings about a 1/2 turn rich of where the prescribed settings are. See If the engine dies during this process note where you were when you died. try to repeat the process and go farther. (you may need to turn your throttle end point up quite a bit to keep the idle a little high (if needed). See what happens and report back. Even though I asked to be sure I don't think that you are too lean or that you have a fuel blockage in the line but one has to check these things. Is this the same carb you had on the engine that got toasted? what settings did you use then and how did it run?

[NItro-Smoke]

I have been following your not so well progress and if I were you I would trash that crap engine and just get O.S CV-R. Thats the engine I got and it has been running brilliant from day-1 ! You are getting all kinds of info so Im not going there, But stop being frustrated and get a new engine and enjoy your truck!!!

[Racin Rev]

I have to say that my CV-r has been flawless as well. I have herd of people putting an os carb on a Picco. (it may need an adapter). it might not be a cost effective alternative though.

[NItro-Smoke]

I have to admit the CV-R is my first engine, but after the experience with O.S Im sure Ill stick with them for whatever I need! I can take my truck out every saturday we race and It fires right up with no fiddleing with any needles and I can run it all night with maybe moving the high end a wee bit or even never touching the settings---its that dag-gone good--Love it! I have about 2 gallons through it and still all the compression as new :D :D

[Racin Rev]

It occurs to me that all this praise for OS may be hitting a poor guy while he is down. :o

[NItro-Smoke]

Yea I would be a little down as well, but Stadium has had trouble with that engine from day-1 or shortly after and he has spent days and days trying to get it right with no luck, even after a rebuild--I think a week after he got it!!--If possible J just put that engine up and go with O.S. Well enough on that and I hope you get that truck going man!! Later

[Nutter]

Well, today at the track I did the nearly impossible.. I broke a titanium ball stud! :( It wasn't in a bad crash either.. it was just after a bad take-off from a very small jump (less than 1/2 a foot high), and my truck cart wheeled for a few feet (probably only 2-3 at most).
What was really suprising is that it broke not at the ball, but half way down the thread (it was one of the long 0.380" ti ball studs). Now of course this means that I have the bottom half of the thread still stuck in my front bulkhead :mad: ..oh well, I was going to replace it soon anyway.
Worst thing however.. this was my first run of the truck with the ti ball studs! Yep, they lasted a whole 2 tanks. :(

Don't say they don't ever break.. :p


-Nutter

[PJCruz]

Hey dude, private msg me or drop me an email. My email should be on my profile. I think you have the Ready to Race NT like I do that comes with a Picco.

Anyways, I have about 7 tanks thru mine, and now I can't start it. I have some ideas... but don't want to tie up the board here.

I don't remember all the problems you were having from day 1, all I remember was engine trouble.. and you got a new piston/sleeve from picco.

Anyways, email me. If you're problem is like mine maybe we can work it out.

Pete

[igozoom]

StadiumJ, do not let the little sissy Picco beat you. Worst case scenario, put it on Ebay and buy something different, or, for therapy, set it in a vice and take a hack saw to it. hehehe

I have run my Picco with very few problems. I would like to point out that that I have just purchased a OS 10er and adapter. While the current carb works fine, I find myself tuning between runs when the temp(world temp, not motor temp) changes. In effect, the Picco carb is touchy enough that an 1/8th turn makes a huge difference.

Please humor and tell me number turns out on main and idle. Also (assuming you have a rotory carb, does it look like your carb opening is about the thickness of a match ?

I will compare it to my settings. From there you may be be able to fatten up the main and up the idle. Just trying to help sir. Hang tough. Driving your truck will be all the more swetter and you will develop the confidence and experience to deal with problems
as they develop.

If you get sick of dealing with it, send it to me ( or better yet, take Jim's previous offer. One of us should be able to hep.

[StadiumJ]

Well, I did discover one possible reason for my whacked-out needle settings: The fuel cap is very very weak. When I tested the tank/hoses for leaks, the cap came up and spewed bubbles very easily. Could this problem alone cause the insane needle setting? How do I fix this?

When I took the carb apart to look for debris in the fuel inlet I didn't see anything. But when I was screwing the main needle housing back into the carb it snapped in half, right at the hole for fuel. I don't know if that is a replacable part or not (with my luck, no friggin' way). I will probably have to buy a new carb. Oh well, more money, more time :mad:. I was looking on Tower Hobbies ($50 for the carb) but I couldn't find an adapter. Does anyone know the part #? Is it an OS part?

I'm going to start calling shops in a little while. Nothing is open yet. The last time I really needed a part (the little circlips to hold the wristpin in) I had to drive 2 hours to San Jose. All for a $1 part. My LHS sold me the truck but has virtually nothing for Losis. Is this the case in most places? Did I buy the Macintosh equivalent of RC trucks?

[Racin Rev]

Oh man! :eek: I feel your pain! :(
I remember seeing the adaptor while culling my magazine collection but i think that it was for a nova. I would check the diameters of the openings or go to an engine forum and ask. someone will know cuz many people are claiming to have done this mod.

[tl-xxx-nt-24]

racin rev or nutter
did u guys have to rewire your ofna starter box to use the two six cell batts if so how mine came pre wired but it says u can rewire it to run it off the two batts

[Racin Rev]

I am running a gell cell but it did come with the plugs for the two battery pack. The rewireing is to make the box more efficient (larger wire soldered connections equal less resistance) and less prone for something to come loose.

[Nutter]

I don't have a Ofna starting box, and mine came wired for 2 7.2v packs already, so I actually had to make the wires to use a 12v battery with it.. :p

To go the other way, you'd have 2 plugs for your battery packs, connect the negative on one to the positive on the other, then connect the positive that's unused on the battery connectors to the positive wire that'd normally go to the 12v, and the negative that's unused on the battery connectors to the negative that'd normally go to the 12v battery.


-Nutter

[tl-xxx-nt-24]

mine did not come with the plugs it just came with the posts and plugs so you could charge the gell ceel without talking the cover of everything else was assembled

[Nutter]

Just took a pic of that ti ball stud that broke.. ouch :p

http://www.virtuallysane.com/images/rc/broken_ti_ballstud.jpg


-Nutter

[Railman]

Nutter, Don't feel too bad. My son bought a big $$$ HG aluminum bulkhead for his FTGT when he 1st assemled it, & his broke off the same way after about two races. The stud is still burried deep inside. I use the RPM bulkheads instead for that same reason. Anyway, you still got two holes left!:rolleyes: :D

I think the reason they break off just inside is because that's the point where the threads are supported solidly. The outer part of the plastic just don't give enough support, & allows flex on the ball stud. I've often thought of doing a brass or aluminum insert there, just to keep a full support on the ball stud threads. The only thing is, if that were the case why did my sons break so easily on his alum bulkhead? Just some thoughts.
Joe

[purplerides]

i believe lundsford makes the adapter i never seen it on there web site but i do know that is who everybody says makes it. plus O.S. carbs. are pricey , if i'm not mistaken i believe the carb. off the new O.S. tr motor will fit on with no adapter again i'm not sure but that's what i heard and no i'm not going to tear mine down to see...LOL sorry , the nova carb. is also supposed to fit right on the picco motor.

[StadiumJ]

Yeah, thanks Purple, I did find it yesterday. I ordered the OS 10 er ($50) and the Lunsford adapter ($11). The Picco carb costs $65 at the shop in San Jose. I figured since I was shopping for a new carb and they're around the same price, I'd buy the one with the good reputation.

Can anyone help with the weak cap problem? I guess I'll just head over to a shop sometime and try to buy a new one. Thanks again.

[losifreak2004]

nutter - Wow! I wish I had a way to prove that was a defect. Those do NOT break that easily. I've caught the outside wall down the straight wide open and not broken one like that!

Up front you can get away with running on the outside hole and using two washers underneath it. That's what I run, it should be very close turning-wise as the middle hole with no washers. Plus, if it breaks, the part of the stud where the washers were will give you enough of a hold on it to get it out.

In areas where it will not affect geometry (like the rear ballstuds on the NT) try running a large washer under the ballstud. This will help disperse the initial shock of an impact more around the whole plastic piece instead of having to be absorbed by the threaded part of the stud.

StadiumJ - Try putting a setscrew collet on the spring, where it pushes against the tank and gets its tension. This will tighten the tension and should help with the situation. Also, tighten the screw on the cap a little and see if that helps.

You can order parts directly from Horizon at www.horizonhobby.com and they will be at your door in less than a normal work week.

Who's ready for Silver State? I am!

(NT news flash: I won a club race at Hemet yesterday by over a lap, leading a 1-2-3 NT sweep!)

Aaron

[lositeamdriver]

Aaron

vegas is going to be sweet this year for silver state hopefully ..cross your fingers....there will be no or little wind and be a warm day with no rain :D other then that see you there ..oh ya and the track layout is going to be also sweet it has a long a$$ stright its going to be more technical of a track

[Nutter]

While I'm ordering the new ti ball studs, what rod ends do you guys recommend to go with them & Lunsford turnbuckles (the punisher ones, not the new ones)?
Also, is it ok to use .380" ball studs for all camber links?


-Nutter

[INFERN06]

Nutter,I have found that it is easy to get the remains of the ball stud out of the bulkhead with a diamond dremel cutting disc.Make a slight slot in the metal from the point you can best access it and slotted screw driver it out.

StadiumjI think what you may be experiencing is tank vacume.I have seen these types of symptoms with Associated RC10GT RTR's.The problem was the nipple outlet from the pipe that fed pressure to the tank was blocked with thread lock so it would not push air to the tank.It would start fine and the engine would draw fuel out of the tank but as it would draw fuel it would cause negative pressure inside the tank making for less fuel going out of the tank and more air....leaning out on it's own.We would do everything to the needles but to no avail it would still lean out and wind out at idle.If we gave it throttle it would almost immediately die due to lack of fuel.
Now try this.Take the pressure line off the tank and start it up,this will not harm the engine but it will have to be a bit richer to run this way,if this is working then the pipe is the problem.Make sure all of the lines AND nipples are free from obstructions and pinches.Don't toss the engine ,there is probably nothing wrong with it.You may just need to find the problem first before spending a whack of money on another power plant.:cool:
P.S. CANADA RULES!!!!:D :D :D

[Nutter]

Inferno: I would, but it broke off half way down the thread, and it's one of the long .380" ball studs. As you can see in the pic, it's atleast 3 threads deep in the bulkhead.. I've got a spare bulkhead anyway though, so it's no big deal.. I'm more disapointed that I broke such a nice ti ball stud, hehe. :p

Also, I have another question aswell as which rod ends I should use.. my truck now has Drake's standard setup (with the exception of silver Reptile's in the rear not reds, and the front camber link was in 2b not 3b, as the Lunsford turnbuckles are too long for 3b), but it doesn't work very well for me in a few areas.
I have 2 problems with this setup, firstly it seems incredibly springy.. the truck hits some bumps in the track and looks like it's bouncing along, giving me very poor traction in parts of the track.
The other problem is that I seem to have little rear traction, and I spin out very easily, even at fairly low speeds. The track is fairly hard and dusty, with an inconsistant surface, lightly cracked in spots.

For the rear traction problem, how much difference will going to reds make? I'm using silvers currently as I have a lot of them.. :p I'm not sure what to do for the bouncyness though.. softer springs I presume, but which should I try, and is there anything else I should change too?


-Nutter

[cabbynate]

Nutter-
Your track sounds like the one I race on. I would try some T-Bones (reds) out back and try the red springs in the back and the orange springs in the front. If that don't do it try 35wt shock oil in the rear with the red springs and 2dg rear hubs and use the B hole in the rear hubs as well. Both of those set-ups should give you more rear traction. ;)

[ronin8451]

I too broke ball studs on the rear camber links all weekend. Then a guy told me to put 1 or 2 washers under them and it worked. It seems they squirm around with little support from the plastic and finally break off. To help get them out after they do break , you might try cutting a slot in the end before you install them, that way you can get a small screwdriver in there to screw it out.:D

[StadiumJ]

Which air filter is best for my new carb (OS 10 er)? This one looks like it, but I'm not sure. Thanks

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p.pgm

[Racin Rev]

I run the stock Losi (kit) setup on mine with no problems. I would assume that yours came with the same stuff.

[Lord Radeon]

Nutter: increase your shock weight by 5 or 10. This will make the oil thicker, and the shock piston will not be able to travel through the schock as fast, which eliminates the over-bounciness of a truck. Just some helpful advice

[Nutter]

cabby: red springs in the back and orange in the front? That's opposite to Drake's setup.. sounds a little odd. Can anyone confirm this would be ok?

umm.. this sounds like a dillema.. cabby says to go down 5 in the shock oil to increase rear traction, but Lord Radeon says I should go up 5 to reduce bouncyness.. doh! :p hehe


-Nutter

[drdirt]

thanks a lot racin rev and winning edge designs. I got the beast running sat afternoon, not in time to go to the new carpet track, but oh well. Just a bevel in the back of the slot is all I needed. Had a little bit of a runaway the first firing but I shut it down right
away and checked the carb settings like I was supposed to (DUH), and found they were way off what I thought they should bbe. HA I was right. Armed with my on board temp gauge (COOL) I ran some laps in the street at half throttle NO 4 CYCLING and every thing was good. couple mins it was at 200, shut it down ,then did it again. It was all good (felt like a pro) Just started to lean it a little to get the temp back up to 200 (it cooled down a little) and I noticed the rear hinge pin was sliding forward. No set screw! While I was at it I wanted to change gears a little, and the screws for the motor mount were so tight I couldn't budge them, any thoughts? thanks for lettin me rant, Jim:D

[cabbynate]

Nutter-
Check Todd Hodge's set up on Losi's site.

[winning edge designs]

nutter,the difference between silver and red compound tires is night and day. Will night and dusk at the least,:). The reds wil have more bite at all times,except the softer surfaces,where softer pins may not be effective due to folding over,etc.

Going to a little thicker oil may help as stated above. But I would try in 2.5 wieght increments if you have access to the half wieght oils available from teamLosi. For instance at the last big race I went to my car was bottoming on a few of the bigger jumps,but felt good otherwise. Going from 25 wt to 27.5 made enough of an improvement to be faster,yet not take anything away from the other spots on the track were it was good....note,softer oil makes for quicker "wieght transfer" and "reaction". You could also consider smaller hole pistons,with the same oil,for hard impact landings,but similar "reaction".....Jim

[rczonexxnt]

nutter,
My friend reversed my springs on me once ( orange front, red read). He did this as a joke - some friend. It nearly double my trucks turn radious. Well not really. The truck was really stable in the on-power sweeper, but to navigate the tight sections, I had to jam on the brakes to break the rear tires free. On a track where the rear might tend to break a way easy I might try this on purpose.

I just put on Ti ball studs on the inner links of all the tie rods. I put on a new pair of yellow rod ends, during this upgrade. Anyone know the difference between the yellow, stock, and block ends that come the the Ti studs? besides color...

I have seen quite a few of the fast trucks running with Trinity's blue screw kit and MIP CVDs. I am not into all that eye candy, but will these parts stand up to racing? I have only been to a few races with them, and it appears that their trucks break less than others. Isn't that always true about the fast guys though.

Anyone running graphite parts on an XXXNT?

Lastly a couple of posts ago someone posted a pic of their truck and a few comments were made regarding the routing of the Rx pack. I have seen most of the ones on my local track run under the motor, held in place with the clips on the front of the trany case. I am not comfortable with those wires so close to the fly wheel. I have mine routed over the tranny brace, and zip tied and silconed in place. I don't like it that way either, but it is the lesser of the evals... I briefly fiddled around by bolting a pack over the server (would also move the CG fwd). It was a NIMH pack, which is a bit lighter than the 4 AA deal. It was a noticable change, but the truck didn't jump well, in fact it was pretty poor. I didn't have time to properly change the suspension to see if I could dial in a better jumper. I got some really strange looks from the guys on the track, though. No one at the track has ever heard of anyone doing this. Have any of you guys?

I would like to thank all those who have posted to this group. It has taken me days to get through all these pages, and I have compiled a very big list of things to try this season.

See you at the track !

[rczonexxnt]

drdirt, I just helped a guy with your same problem. If you drill out the heads on the screw(s) that are stuck you will be able to get the engine off. You can then use vise grips on whats left over to pull out the rest of the screw. This took care of 3 of the 4 screws. The other one we couldn't get out of the motor mount so we had to replace that, too.

Good luck.

[PJCruz]

Tonight after taking out the trash, I paid my Losi a visit in the garage. I checked out the chassis and the made sure the flywheel was BDC (habit I guess). Well, there was oil all over it.. seemed to be coming from the flywheel (maybe excess fuel/residue from the front bearing?). Anyways, I then lifted the truck up to look at the underneath and as I tilted it, fuel (seemed pretty raw.. not burned.... just poured from the pipe stinger. It was a definite blue ( I use Blue Thunder). I thought maybe the darn thing was leaking somehow from the tank thru the engine to the pipe... so I disconnected the fuel tubing to the carb... and tried again... Man, a bunch more poured out till finally it stopped.

Maybe I had all this fuel in there locking up the piston/flywheel. Time to charge up the starter box and get that bad boy running. =) My weekend off is coming up ;-)

Pete

[INFERN06]

PJ I have also had this same problem.I have found it is not a good idea to store fuel in the tank when not in use since the pressure line into the tank goes into the fuel quite a ways.When the fuel expands from air temp and gasses inside letting off it will force fuel into the pipe and carb making a mess.I have fixed the tank problem by blocking the input hole in the tank with a set screw tightly put into the pressure pipe of the tank,tapped a small hole in the lid of the fuel tank and off set a hole in the underside of the lid to keep splashes from entering the pressure line.Screw a 90 degree pressure nipple into the lid and your done.Works awesome and does not foam up the fuel while driving as bad as before.:D

[cabbynate]

Nutter-

If you are using 40wt and orange springs in the rear you are most likely bouncing around beacuse the rear is to stiff. Go to www.teamlosi.com and look at BK's 2001 Silver State set-up.
Look at the track conditions. It sounds like your track may be somewhat like this. I'm not sure what tracks Drake uses his standerd set-up at but most likely there is more traction there.
I know The Dirt track in Hemet has tons of traction.

[purplerides]

plus it depends on what your calling bouncy , if the track is real rough and your set-up is too stiff your truck will kinda just skip across the imperfections of the track , which can be fast sometimes if the track has enough traction to still provide control but you have to stay on top of the truck and be ready to counter react fast , but if the track is slick your going to have a real tough time with a set-up that stiff. , usually lighter oil will allow the suspension conform to the track better when it's rough. bouncy can also when your shock oil is too light or the oil leaked out and there's not enough resistance to slow the springs action down. i've also seen guys with there ride high so high that the suspension has no uptravel and the truck looks like it's driving around on pogo sticks. so it depends on what type of bouncy your experiencing.

i run orange springs in the front and red in the rear , my set-up started out as Drake's set-up but tweaked it to my likings and my home tracks likings , i run #56 piston all the way around 30wt in the front and in the heat of the summer i use 32.5wt up front , in the rear at the start of the season or when track is slick i use 27.5 and when traction is avail. and it's hot out i increase up to #35wt i use Drake's mounting positions up front 2b camber links with no washers , in the rear i use Trinity's rear hub carriers TK5102 (0 degree) with camber link 2A with 2 washers under the ballstud and sometimes when i need a little more sidebite i put three washers under the ballstud.

the key is to try different set-ups to find what works for you and your track and driving style , Drakes set-up and the stock set-up are 2 good starting points , i kinda sorta started at Drakes and drifted back towards a little toward stock , you have to try things i don't drive like Adam so i had change things some to get the handling characteristics to suit me.

[cabbynate]

My truck is pretty much set up like purplerides. I also started out with the Drake set up and drifted towards the set up I have now.
I run the 1dg Losi hubs when I have fresh rear tires that work and as the traction go's I switch to the 2dg hubs. #56 pistons all the way around, orange/32.5wt front,red/32.5-35wt rear. Silver Directionals/losi firm foams front and red T-Bones/Trinity bomb 1 foams out back.
The track is hard,slick,rutted,dusty and beat down. It will get rebuilt this week end for the Silver State race. I don't see my set up changing much. By race day it will be back to hard, slick, rutted and dusty again.

[PJCruz]

I have an "older" OFNA starter box (purple, with power panel). Anyways, I'm getting ready to clean er out and solder some stuff together to get it more sturdy. Anyways, I remember the box has some mounting holes on the side and some "posts" and plugs it looks like. There's NO MENTION of these in the horrible instruction sheet that came witht he box.

Any idea of what purpose they serve? The plugs I'll use to hook up to a glow starter to plug into the panel. But the red and black posts? Are those to hook up to charge the gel cell? I have been hooking up two bananna plugs to the 12v jacks in the front to charge with aligator clips?

Thanks again...

Pete

[Nutter]

By bouncy I mean I'll hit a bump in the track (that's not even big enough to be visible from the drivers stand), and the truck will just bounce straight up like it was bunny-hoppng the bump and not asorbing it at all. I run with front arms and bones level, so that's not the problem.
I feel that it's because the shock oil's too thick, and possibly the springs are too hard too. Does going down 5-10 in the shock oil sound like a good start? I say 5-10 cos it is quite major bouncyness. :p


-Nutter

[StadiumJ]

Hey guys, I was hoping someone could post a link that would help me with setups. I have the setup sheets of Hodges, Drake, etc., but they don't tell me WHY to do what they do. I am interested in learning what a "2 dg rear hub" is an how to properly adjust "camber" and "toe-in", etc. Thanks!

[cabbynate]

Nutter

Yes, try going down 5wt in the rear and if you need more rear traction than put the red springs in the back and the orange springs in the front. That should help with the spin outs.:)

StadiumJ

Racetech motor sports has a toe in/camber gudge that looks like it would be perfect for the job. If you get one make sure you get the one for off road. They cost about $30.00 or maybe a little less.
2dg rear hubs give you more 2dg more rear to in for more rear traction. If you put the left one on the right side you will have 2dg less rear to in. If tou where running on a super high grip track you may want to do this but I dought it. It's jut an option.

[Racin Rev]

stadium j ,
try this site. I think that it will answer most of your questions. the latest issue of rccar or maybe the one before has some useful info also just don't pay attention to the one on jumping they say you need to understand physics but then proceed to prove that they don't. http://gallery.uunet.be/heremanss/

[rc10tc3drivr]

PJ those are to charge a 12 volt gell cell

do you guys go through alot of spur gears because on the second day of running it took a nice chip out of the spur

it was real fun till that piont though

[winning edge designs]

Stadiumj,Rear toe-in is a pretty drastic thing to change when your truck isn't quite perfect,but mopre for when it's really out from what you want. Adding rear toe-in will usually add turn-in steering and forward traction,but it can cause erratic handling on very rough tracks also. Less rear toe-in adds some straightaway speed,adds on-power steering and goes thru bumps better,since the rear tires won't be trying to "Steer the truck" when one or the other comes off the ground.

As far as the "bouncing" effect your feeling(and seeing),if it's acting "springy" it's usually too light shock oil,if it's handling sluggish and kicking off the surface alot,it's usually too thick shock oil. Springs won't cause the "bouncy" reaction,on thier own,unless they are used with too light oil. The spring actually supports the wieght and wieght transfer,the oil controls the spring and helps it overcome sudden suspension movements,speed of wieght transfer,etc.

.....for a low bite,rough track surface,i'd start out with red springs all 4 shocks,30 wt oil front and 35 rear,with 56 pistons front and 54 pistons rear. Using stock shock locations and camber locations,except for going to the A-hole in the rear and +1 degree hub carriers...............Jim

[rc10tc3drivr]

do you guys balance your tires

[cabbynate]

rc10tc3drivr,

I don't

Jim,

The lower the #piston, the larger the holes?

Thanks

[lositeamdriver]

well in mine and cabbynates case our track has so many ruts it will help but not that much to ballance your tires becuse the only kinda flat part on our track is the rear stright so i tried it a ouple of times but i dont see a diff between balanced and non balanced last year at silver state kinwald balanced his but trie it on the mf edition tire balancer and see if it helps you i know that treadz tires are not that bad the pre guled ones they seem to be good and you dont have to balance them try it thats all i can say ...

[purplerides]

rc10tc3driver- i haven't had any problems with the spur gear at all nor has anybody else i race with , maybe you just had some bad luck and got a rock/stone in there , also check your gear mesh , too tight will stress the clutch bearings and doesn't allow the trans. to spin freely plus may chew the gear some , too loose a mess where the teeth of the clutch bell barely engage the spur will cause you to chip the teeth off , too much stress on the tips of the gear.

i do balance my tires , i notice that some tires do take a lot weight and some don't , the truck just seems to drive smoother with them balanced.

[drdirt]

thanks anyway, LHS said to put soldering iron on the head of screw to break the loctite loose. Ill try that before i take a chainsaw to a new truck..LOL

[igozoom]

StadiumJ, never heard final res on the Evil Picco. Please let us know. I thought about you last weekend (not in the biblical sense, I assure you!:D ) while driving and felt guilty having so much fun while thinking about your frustration. Stick with it, sir. It's worth the effort.

OK, need some advice (Cabby?, Purple?, Tarvey?, Rev?, Jim?, NE1?)

I have finally gotten my truck relatively dialed in and been able to enjoy many laps of practice and racing (not to mention some spectacular crashes over the triple! hehehe). Time to pay the piper as the diff feels slightly gritty and squeels like a pig on occassion. I always check the diff and have taken very good care of it.

For a first rebuild, is it necessary to replace every gear, outdrive, washer and ball bearing? Would someone please recommend the specific items that need to be replaced? Thanks all.

[rczonexxnt]

ig,
There are many schools of thought as what to replace on a diff. If you are on a budget you can just try and and clean everything. Losi says only the rings need to be placed and that's a good starting point. I rarely replace the diff balls, only if under visual inspection shows wear on the balls. I only replace the diff gear if the balls don't seat in them.
2909 is the PN for the diff screw kit, that too is a must ($4.50)
6951 is the PN for diff balls ($10.00)

Outdrives should last a long time, but depending on how you use the throttle has a lot to do with wear.

[winning edge designs]

Cabbynate,yes,that larger the number is the smaller the holes are. ie:a 56 piston has 3 #56 drill bit size holes in it. You can buy a kit from racers edge that included hand held bits,from #54 to # 59 and use the natural #60 pistons with any desired drill sizes. You'll motice on the Set-up sheets they talk about standard or drilled pistons. A #56 drilled and a number 56 molded are close,but not the same. Usually the molded holes in the pistons are "slightly" smaller,due to flash,tolerances,etc in the holes.


My thoughts on balancing.....If your at an important race and it might even give you a slight edge,it's worth the time it takes. If your at a club race,or running tires that won't last very long,it's a bit of a hassle. So basically I do it depending on how smooth the track is,how much bite there is and how important the race is.


On my diffs,I always flip or replace the diff rings each time,relube the thrust bearing or replace it if I let it get pretty bad. Also relube the diff balls and re-use them(I only use carbide diff balls). The gear will show wear by looking at how the gear teeth are shaped. If you can see ANY variation from one side of the teeth to the other,replace the gear,same for all the tranny gears. I also always make sure the little blue seal on the diff screw is in decent shape,since it's job is to protect the thrust assembly. Out drives are another visual check,they show shape changes when worn. Check the areas the outdrive pins ride in mostly,if they are "cupping" then replace the outdrives(always in pairs for consistant dogbone/outdrive friction). Worn outdrives will make the truck do all kinds of weird things,thru bumps and under power,since the loading of the axles has alot to do with the handling of the truck.........................Have at it,:),Jim

[purplerides]

pretty much the same for me on the diff. , the gear is usually pretty good , balls usually good , i flip or replace rings , check the thrust bearing washers and balls a lot of times that's were the initial gritty feeling comes from , check the blue seal as Jim said , i relube and put back together , i use AE black grease on the thrust assem. and AE diff. lube on the diff. and feel there lubes are superior to Losi's , as far as outdrives go if there's any notching in them from the drive axle pins replace them they will screw up your handling like you wouldn't beleive.

[purplerides]

Dr.Dirt - yea that sounds like a good idea and heat them up if they were loctite in the heat should help break down the loctite , and use a good 5/64 driver , if you round out the heads cut a slit in them with a dremal and use a flat screwdriver , i have found that them screws don't need loctite because the washer that's used doesn't allow them to vibrate loose , as long as you clean any oil/dirt off of them before you put them back on , just tighten the screws tightly.

[cabbynate]

igozoom

I'm with Purplerides on the diff thing. I use AE lubes as well.
I also use 3/32 balls in the thrust. After I clean the parts with motor cleaner I put the bearings in the diff gear dry and put a small blob of AE Stealth diff lube on each ball. Both sides.None on the rings. The thrust I use a lot of AE Black grease. Make sure the slipper slips before the diff!!!!! Run the diff tighter than an electric diff and the slipper looser than an electric slipper and the diff should last a long time. My diff lasted through a 7 week point series and still felt great. The only reason I rebilt it was I looked in side and figured since I was there I may as well rebuild it. ;)

[StadiumJ]

I got my new OS carb on Wednesday night. It is definately different. The most obvious thing to me was that the throat of the carb is oval, as opposed to the round Picco carb. Anyways, I finished putting the truck together today (Thurs.) I couldn't locate a bigger o-ring for my fuel tank. My options were all too big or too small. So I majorly tweaked the spring so that it is pushing down hard. I think it's good since I was able the start the engine with the factory settings. I have spent the past hour tuning. I am happy to say that I am the farthest I've been since the "mystery lockup" that started this whole mess. So, here's where I am:

I checked the needles to see where the factory had set them, then put them back. The engine started at first, then died while idling. I gradually leaned the high end and raised the idle until it was running at idle. It seems to be spitting out too much gas out of the exhaust and sounds "choppy", like it's 4-stroking. If I give it any gas (above a clear-out blip), the engine dies. When I pinch the fuel line, it takes a while to rev-up (more than 5 seconds) and then dies. From previous advice I've heard from SteveP that means that my low end is too rich. Judging from the puddle of gas on my garage floor, I think he's right. :) I don't want to lean the high end any more until I've leaned to low end some. SteveP, if you're reading, what's the next step after I've gotten the engine to die 5 seconds after I cut it off? I've got some things to do, but I'll try to work on it some more tonight. It SHOULD be broken-in by the weekend. Wish me luck!

[winning edge designs]

Stadium,some gas spitting from the exhaust is normal,it only depends on how much? I'll go thru my routine for setting a new motor up,see if it helps you out.

Some require richening after starting,some require leaning out after a tank or two,follow instructions there,especially the first two tanks,it's crucial. (My RB for example,needed two full turns RICHER after it's initial fire up,it was said to be set for "Easy starting new"). I allow the engine to idle thru the first tank,with only small easy blips of the gas to try and keep it from stalling out when it loads up really bad. Believe it or not,you don't want it soooo rich it doesn't heat up at all,a good temp to start out would be 140-150 degrees,approx...Enough for the new parts to "expand correctly". After the first tank,Let the engine cool for 1/2 hour. Then bring the high end in 1/4 turn and run another tank. At this point you shouldn't be messing with the idle circuits yet. Do this a couple of times,going leaner,or in,1/4 turn each tank and allowing cool down time to heat cycle the parts. By the third or fourth tank you'll need to run the car on a track,to see how the high end is set,be sure to have it rich,so you adjust leaner,once it's too lean it'll need to cool before it will be worth adjusting on again. Each time you make a full throttle pass,the engine should NOT reach peak RPM,if it does,it's too lean. It should sound like a fullsize car in 3rd gear at low speeds,trying to accelerate,but not able to. Adjust the high needle 1/8 turn at a time now,making a full throttle pass each time. Once it seems prett fast(still not an animal) it's time to get the low end close.

After a pass,bring the truck in and allow it to idle. If it's close,it will idle without much drop in engine rpm. If the rpm begins to drop right away,or within only a couple of seconds,you'll need to lean the bottom an 1/8th turn. After doing this,you may also need to lower the idle speed screw,or back it out,since the idle speed will increase. Make a pass down the straight,then re-check the idle quality again. Each time checking that the idle stays consistant and doesn't rev after you initially let off,or blubber and stall.
A common symtom I see is an engine that is happy and revving too much when you first let off the gas,then the idle creeps down to the correct speed(called blubbering to me). This is a rich low end setting,with an idle screw turned way in to compensate. For this you basically lean the low end,until it stays constant after a pass down the straight,then reset the idle "speed" screw for correct idle speed...You'll know if your too lean on either end by temp. If others at your track are in the 200-250 range you will likely be as well. To check the low end temp,look for a drop in temp as the engine idles after a few laps. If it's right it will only take a few seconds to see the temp dropping at idle......if it's too lean,it will rise while it idles!

There's alot more to it,but this will hopefully get you up and running. Let us know if you need any other tips........Good luck,Jim

[INFERN06]

I could not have said it better myself,Only difference is when I do the initial break in I don't blip the throttle while in the first two tanks but I do let it idle thru them consecutivly and let the temp sit @ 160-180.After the first two tanks I let it cool for 10 -15 minuits with the piston at bottom dead center.(good habit to get into)Other than those things I do everything else the same.:D

[tl-xxx-nt-24]

do u guys run high speed or high torque steering servos the stand. racing serv is not cutting it

[Lord Radeon]

I'd go with a high speed servo... i have a torque servo and i'd switch to speed if i could (hitec 5945)

[purplerides]

stadium - pretty much as Jim said , if you set the low end too early in the process and the high isn't close then when you lean the high end out to where it needs to be then the low end is too lean remember when you lean the high you are leaning total fuel to the carb. so you are leaning top and bottom end at the same time that's why as Jim stated he does it later in the process , the first couple tanks some motors don't like to run that rich just be patient and work your way through it as you lean up the high the motor will start to run better then follow Jim's directions when you start on the low if it's too rich when you finish a pass and pull it up to you and the idle is going da..da..da..da..da..da then drops to da.... da....da....da....da then it's to rich, lean out the low end a little, until after a pass when you pull it up to you it pretty much go right to the da....da....da.....da and as Jim said you may have to lower the idle after you get the low end set , then you can do the pinch test that steve told you to double check your work. then after that on a daily basis you won't do much adjusting and if you do it's only 1/8th or so richer or leaner depending on the weather and many motors do even require it that much.


tl-xxxnt-24 - if it's the steering servo i like some of both i use JR Z8550 servo's 188oz torq and .15 speed there not real fast but there not slow and almost unstrippable i haven't stripped one yet , i wish they where a little faster , i perfer atleast 80oz torq for steering , with some radio's you can slow the servo speed down but you can't add torq. i use a futaba 3PJ radio and i can adjust servo speed for the steering.

[INFERN06]

tl-xxx-nt
I use the good old Futaba 9402 but you can get the similar newer version of that in digital for steering I think it is the 9450 and I use a 9404 for the brake/throttle.Works too we and no brake fade.Don't need too much torque on the steering of the truck like you would in a 1/8th scale buggy but it doesn't hurt.

[winning edge designs]

One things for sure,if all us racers on this board can't get a new racer/tuner going,nobody can!!!

My choice on servo's for gas truck are a Airtronics 737,or futaba 9402 throttle and a Futaba 9450 steering servo. For the steering I have also used the Airtronics 157,257,357 with good success. The futaba just feels a little smoother and seems to center better(digital and $30 more,go figure,heh)...I use an M8 if it matters as well........Jim

[losifreak2004]

Jim - Amen to that!

9402 for throttle? OVERKILL!

The 9450 is the digital version of the 9402. Everything else is identical.

I use a 9402 for steering and a 9304 for throttle with an M8.

Good to be back!
Aaron

[INFERN06]

Man I said 9404 for throttle,that is just for throttle speed and braking power ,the 9402 for throttle would be a bit more than what i am using but it would be great for braking power.I use the 9404 with my M8 and all I do is set my endpoints to the brake lock-up position and the same for the throttle.9402 for steering and Ya the 9450 is the kicka$$ version of the 9402 but I don't need digital.:D

[losifreak2004]

Like I need to get on the throttle any harder....LOL

Seriously though, the throttle return spring can pull a 9304 back to center quite quickly when the power is off, such as a battery pack going low. Just a little extra insurance.

[StadiumJ]

Maybe it's just me, but I can't seem to get this damn Picco tuned right. I started the day at a rich setting. I think it was rich because it was spitting out alot of gas, and when I got it to move it was VERY sluggish. If I punch it, it dies. So, i leaned the high end over and over. Still bogs down. I'm now at 1.5 to 1.7 turns out on the high end. If I go any leaner the engine will not start. I believe the low end is ok based on this: when I sqeeze off the fuel, the RPMs pick up and the engine dies in about 5 seconds. When it sits at idle, it seems to be fairly consistent (it might rev a little, then bogs down after 15-20 seconds). Right now, it seems to flood easily. It's difficult to start, and dies if I give it ANY gas. The symptoms seem to suggest that it's too rich, but how can I be too rich at 1.5 turns out? Like I said, it won't start if I go any leaner on the low or high end. I'm getting tired of this. Please help.

Also, after I got entirely frustrated today I unscrewed the glow plug. As I rocked the piston back and forth slowly, a steady stream of smoke rose out of the hole for at least 45 seconds. This seemed odd to me, so I thought maybe it could explain what's wrong with my garbage engine.