Team Losi XXXNT forum v3.0

[banditwing]

No my bashing is not as serious as some other people's....

I run on some flat grass, and have some dirt jumps with dirt landings set up. It's not exactly a track, but they are not wooden flat ramps landing on asphalt.

I want to know if the XXX-NT will hold up to a day of serious racing and/or a day of some regular bashing. What I mean by bashing is simply not racing, with a little bit of abuse thrown in :). I'll be driving it on some grass and dirt, but I'm not sending it off roofs or anything.

Can the X-nt survive a bad landing off a jump? Like with 5 feet of air?

I don't need a super tough truck, otherwise I'd get a T-maxx.:)

I will also be racing.

[Nutter]

If course the XXX-NT can survive a day of serious racing! :p In the last 6 months I've only had to replace a ti ball stud that broke off in the front bulkhead - that's the only thing I've broken. Of course I do have a lot of (read: everything ;)) ti, aluminium, and graphite on my trucks.
What & how often you break things just comes down to how bad a driver you are, if you crash a lot, then of course you'll break parts, but for general racing it's very durable. From what you say, it sounds like the XXX-NT would hold up just fine.

If you get the XXX-NT RTR Sport, then as well as the parts that I mentioned above in my reply to fly boygt, you'd also want to get some spare front a-arms (either the normal non-rtr ones, or the graphite ones) as I've heard they're rather weak, and definately titanium turnbuckles.


-Nutter

[racer13]

i'd accually say get the drake edition, since it already has all the tititanium stuff. and all graphite, etc..

[banditwing]

I am a kit guy, I am feeling that I will get bad Karma if I get a RTR. The only thing holding me back is the cost. If the cost of the kit, engine, and nice radio were the same price or close to the RTR, I would easily get the kit.

I am tight on money, and don't have an extra $100+ to spend. Right now I can get everything I need to run a RTR, including it and fuel for less than $400. To get a kit and engine and other stuff, I'll be lucky if it's under $500.

I am going to be racing, but a lot of my "Normal bashing" too. If I was soley racing, I would get the Kit and spend the extra $. But in a backyard scenario, you might never tell the diffrence.

Is the graphite stronger than the Stifezel material and/or the molded plastic?

Here is what I am thinking: I will get the RTR soon. Race it, run it, get used to a nitro vehicle, beat the Mach engine to death, and have it take all the abuse of a person new to nitro. I am a good driver, thanks to quite a bit of practice with my rustler.

Then next year, when it is time to either perform an overhaul of the sport, or get a new truck, I will get a Drake Edition. I will already have a 2-memory model radio, and hopefully another engine by then. If I bought the drake now, well... I would be owing money cause I don't have enough. Thats like a $600 package to get a drake, and to get the support stuff, radio, engine. Sweet stuff, but too much $$ alltogether.

Another question: By next year's summer do you think the Drake Edition will still be a Top Competitor, or will Losi have released a new Nitro truck by then?

My first upgrade to the XXX-NT would be titanium turnbuckles/ ball studs. Then maybe a reciver pack, although it's not really an upgrade to the truck itself. I don't want to jump into nitro with a Drake Edition, because I feel that I will just ruin the top-o-the-line truck off the bat. I feel like I need some expierience with Nitro first.

Also tell me what you think of my "Plan" on getting the Sport now and drake later.

Thank you for your help guys, you really have been helpfull.

[Scrad]

I think that's a good idea to get the RTR. You might not even like nitro or the truck itself, so don't go all out crazy and get the best stuff off of the bat. Just remember you can't always get your money back when you try to resell used stuff. I will suggest one thing to you. You might want to look into the ARR, it doesn't have a radio. I'm not saying the xr2 is bad or anything, but you might want to spend the extra cash on a FM system. Look at the xr3, I have that and I'm very happy with it. But over all if you don't have the money just get the RTR. It still is a great truck. You don't need all of that graphite and trick stuff to win. I have the regular kit without all of that extra stuff and I do just fine.

[banditwing]

Thanks Scrad, that is what I am feeling. I was looking at the ARR, but the system in my rustler is AM 75mhz, so I want to be able to use a Radio for both the Rusty and the XXX-NT (Is there any nickname for the XXX-NT??), and the X-r2 seems perfect. But who doesn't want an Xr-3:p Maybe someone that already has had an M8 :rolleyes:

[banditwing]

BTW, what are the advantages of the X-r3 over the X-r2? I think that it's 3 model memory, which I don't need, but hopefully will:D :D LOL, and a FM frequesncy.

Besides the Diffrent wave type, what is the advantages of an FM over an AM?

[Scrad]

I think it's only 3 model memory and FM that are different... FM has a stronger signal and is better for nitro. But some people do fine with the xr2 and you might as well. My truck never glitches at all with the xr3. All in all you would just have better reception and less interferrance. But that costs extra $... I'm still paying my credit card for my xxx-nt... LOL.

[Sike]

hey guysI am finally going to order an engine. I was thinking before on getting the O.S. .12 TR but there have been so many post (nevertheless on the July 2002 issue of RCCA) that too much power can be of loss when it comes to offroad. I think there had been quite some people here who have use the .12 CVR with excellent results, so I might as well get it (tower just dropped down the price on it too).

This is the right .12 CV-R (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXUJ72&P=0) for the XXXNT, correct? To thos who have used it, How's the result you had when using the Mccoy #59 plugs?

I'm also getting this rear exhaust manifold by trinity (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=1&I=LXBGN7&P=7). Both should work, right?

I'm ordering the engine now so when my lhs have the DE this friday, I will just finish setting it up just when the engine arrives.

p.s. does the DE comes with a flywheel? I have some servos and radio system already, what else do I need to get started so I can include this on my oder tomorrow

TIA
-Sike
>=]

[tarvymoto]

Sike , the CVR is side exhaust , so you don't need the Trinity manifold. The NT does come w/ a flywhee and the stock manifold should work fine for the CVR. Use the money instead to buy a receiver pack that is made for the NT.

[banditwing]

When they say 2 or 3 model memory, what is that implying? Do the transmitter and reciever have to be the same frequency on both models? Or does the frequency switch in the transmitter? I don't quite understand this model memory thing.

Does the X-r3 have three channels too? But what would you do with a 3rd channel? Have a device to activate Nitrous bosters. <insert evil cackle>:D

What will a total package of kit XXX-NT, good engine- like an os or something, a x-r3 and all the accesories to run it. Ex: glow starter, pipe, manitfold, stuff like that, cost?

Im just checking it out, because maybe I could do some yard work and save up the extra $$$. If it's too much $$, then I'll go with the RTR.

I have to have mine be phatter than LEMMEDRIVEIT!!'s:D Hehehe.....

Thanks

[racer13]

hey.... if i were u i wouldn't buy the kit. since that would bring u around 400-500 w/o glow starter, etc.. i would say get the losi xxxnt sport ARR - $249.95 then get an XR3 - $170

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=LOS0881


https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=JRT3141-75


Or you could just go with the xxxnt sport rtr. i bought 2. traded one for an xxxt mfe and kept the other... the motor runs strong if u treat it right.. like a long break in process.... and i found out that the one way bearing inside the motor slips A LOT. thats the only problem i had with it. so my reccomendation is getting a starter box.

[nitro-fury]

For a fully tricked out set up your looking at about $1000

drake kit $319.00
xr3 radio $162.00
z8450 servo $114.00
O.S. Cv-r $150.00
starter box $125.00 (includes charger, glow ignighter and bat)
receiver pack $34.00
trans. pack $19.00
paint & glue $15.00


This is my setup and I love it!!

[banditwing]

I've been thinking. The diffrences between the Sport and the Kit are a diffrent chassis, diffrent suspension materials, and some diffrent diff material.

As I break parts (everyone does:) ) I will either replace them with Stiffezel material or graphite. (In pairs). So after a while of driving it I will basically have a kit xxx-nt/ upgraded xxx-nt kit. Save for the chassis and diff balls.

And if I decide to go GT on someone;) I can get a drake anodized chassis.:D

So after a while of breaking things, and replacing them with better materials, I will have the Kit xxx-nt status, along with other spare parts. For about what it would cost for the kit in the first place. I could use the softer material parts for bashing too.

I think I will go the path of a rtr or an Arr and save up for spare parts and/ or x-r3

I just wish that the Kit was cheaper.

Thanks for all your help. You guys have been really helpfull.

:)

[banditwing]

Sorry another question:

Does the X-R3 come with servos and a reciever? Included in the $170 cost that is.

Are the servo's any better than the ones with the X-r2? How about the reviecer?

Sorry for so many questions.

[nitro-fury]

The Xr3 comes with the receiver crystal set and 2 270 servos. I use the 270 servo for throttle but I soon plan on upgrading to the 4750 for throttle.

[banditwing]

So by getting a X-R3 I also get a reciver and 2 servos? Or just 2 servos and a crystal set?

[DsWright]

I have a question about changing anti-squat in my XXX-NT.

I know it can be done by placeing shims unerneath the rear pivot block, however, which way is adding or reducing antisquat?

And has anyone had much luck with it helping onpower steering?

Im under the impression that if i add shims under the front of the pivotblock it will reduce antisquat, is this correct?

[racer13]

Ok. yes the XR3 comes with a better receiver which is the 135 instead of the 125. it comes with the same servos as the xr2. i say the 270 servo is fine for the throttle.. but for the steering it's not so good. since its plastic geared. i blew 2 of them out on the same day :( i upgraded to a hitec 525 which was only like 30 bucks, and works great. metal geared, ball bearing. etc.. but you may want the 625? which is a little faster. but listen.. i seriously think you should go on ebay and find a deal there.. you can find a RTR with every thing.. better motor, etc.. for under 400 easy. and i spent about 500 each on my 2. from gas, parts, tools, etc.. so i say check out deals on www.ebay.com good luck.

[banditwing]

Ok what I will do is get an RtR with a X-R2 radio. And then I need the glow starter stuff and all.

Thanks for your help! Im glad I'm gettin a Losi!:D

[Sike]

tarvymoto, that is the correct engine though, right? coz I think they also have the pilot shaft version. The one above is standard. I want to really double check coz the order will be tonight :D

[purplerides]

sike - that's correct you want the standard crankshaft , not the pilot shaft version.

DSWright - you got it backwards , adding shims under the front adds more antisquat , the truck has 2 deg. antisquat stock , i haven't tried adding more , another way to get more on power steering is thicker oil in the rear shocks and also a stiffer spring.

[rc10tc3drivr]

is there any where else to get some ti screws for the xxxnt than hex screws cause i cant read thier web site

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

oh sorry its supposed to be www.hexcrews.com

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

oh sorry man my frend told me they titanium but they are really alloy steel

[banditwing]

Ok guys, tell me how this sounds:

I will save up to buy a RTR XXX-NT and Glow accesories. Then when I break parts I will gradually replace them with either graphite or stiffezel material. I am not going to be seriously hardcore racing, so I think the Sport will perform fine. Maybe as I've tried nitro for a while and my Sport begins to get old and if I want to start racing on a club level, I will spring for a Drake edition, or the new truck from either Losi or AE. I can transfer an engine (Hopefully by then I will have another engine:)) and use the XR2 radio system in that.

For a first time nitro enthusiast the Sport looks like the deal for me. Besides I think my friend will also be getting one and it will be cool to trade setup tips and race together.

Thank you very much for all your help.:)

[2canSAM21]

banditwig - Sounds good to me. I am doing the same thing as you. As it breaks I replace it with a graphite part. Bad thing is I have not broken anything yet:mad: :D . I picked up the Sport kit for 280.00 and love it. The engine has awesome power (for me at least) and the truck is great. I have raced a few times and the truck can keep up with the kits and DE kits with no problem. The way I see it is the DE would be too much for me right now. I for one will not be able to tell the difference between graphite suspension arms or the Sports more flexible material. So for now I went the cheap route with the Radio( which I have not had glitch yet) and decided to spend more time driving my truck and really getting a fell for it before jumping in full force. Yes the DE gives you an awesome truck and to upgrade the Sport to that level in the end will be almost two or three times as much, but the cost was not justifiable for me just yet. Basically get the sport, race, bash and enjoy the truck, as parts break replace with standard or graphite. At this point you might find you do notice the truck handles a little better. Most of all have lots and lots of FUN
:D

Now let me ask a question. Reptiles and Directionals seem to be the hot ticket at most tracks. I plan to pick up a set of each in red and was wondering what kind of life to expect from them. One of the locals said that on thier track I would blow the sidewalls out before killing the thread and that one set would last a whole season. Is this true. What are you guys getting out of the Reds?

[banditwing]

Wait, is there a Sport kit? Like a dirt spec? Or did you just get the $340 RTR for $280?

If the Sport comes as a kit then thats what im gettin.:D

Anyone know if the Sport comes as a kit? Not the regular XXX-nt kit, but a "sport version" kit?

[DsWright]

I have 2 full racedays on my red reptiles, and they are still damn close to new.

I don't now about a whole season, but you can at least get a month or two of good raceing.

Just if you run the only at the track they will last a VERY long time.

And time spent on concrete or any other surface than a prepared track will wear them out very fast.


Purplerides... thanks for clearing that up, now my Question is, what im looking for is adding a little onpower steering without compromising rear traction. If i stiffen up my springs and have less wieght transfer to the rear, i get better onpower steering, but less rear traction off power. i need all i can get on my track, it's slick:)

So what im looking for is trying to adjust what my truck responds to on power, without affecting it much otherwise....

I understand that setups are all a matter of compromise, but antisquat is hardly ever talked about, and i can't seem to find much info on it=)

If you have any links to help me with this let me know, or any personal experiece would be welcomed also=)

[2canSAM21]

banditwing - Sorry for the Confusion, I got the 340.00 RTR for 280.00

DsWright - Yeah, these will be for the track only, I have a set of Proline Masher 2000's for play and a set of Proline Road Hawgs for street.

[Racin Rev]

has anyone used these tires?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXD343&P=7

I know that they are duratrax (duratrash) but the tread pattern looks like just what i need. I am running on hard packed with a coating of dust on top. Unless it is very wet step pins don't give enough grab and bow ties are not quite aggressive enough. any assistance would be helpful.

[tarvymoto]

Racin Rev , those tires will work so-so on a blue groove grippy track , but if there is any loose stuff or if the track is too dry...forget it. They look like Pro-line Strikers which are the spec tire for a local electric oval track that I race at occasionally. I use wd40 to soften the Strikers and they work pretty good as long as the track is groove'n and gets watered.
You could try M3 Holeshots for your track. Sounds like a tricky track...lol

[purplerides]

racin rev - for hardpack clay try holeshots , or fuzzy "T"s but the fuzzy "T" 's wear quickly. or losi ifmar pins or T-2000's some tracks like losi tires some like proline.

[purplerides]

Travis - i didn't forget ya ,i'll E-mail ya my set-up just haven't had time.

[purplerides]

DSWright - try a different front tire , tires make all the difference in the world , maybe even a compound change , if your using the losi red directionals , try silvers , or even try proline's edges.

i almost always have a set of each around , i race at different tracks and some tracks a simple tire change can make a truck that's junk into one that's hooked up , you have to get the right tires on the truck before you even think about suspension.

[tarvymoto]

Gary , thanks. I'll be over in the next week or 2.

[coolracer15]

This question has probably already been asked but does the XXXNT have a 2-speed tranny for it?

[CTurbo]

Where did you get the RTR for 280.00.

[2canSAM21]

Losi XXXnt RTR for $280.00 is here (507) 281-8321

[banditwing]

Aww man I was hopin it was a kit:rolleyes:

I can get it for $309 at my LHS. And the guy is nice, so he will also throw in like $20 or so of free races and will help me with it whenever I need help. Yeah I know I have to pay Tax and that will bring it up a bit, but I think it is worth it, rather than buying from an online store.

Kind of a stupid question, but what type's of clutch bells can you get to change gearing? I haven't seen anybody offer diffrent size clutch bells other than Duratrax, and do those fit the Mach and/ or other engines?

Another newbie question: What if I got a good quality and high performance OS .15, and I geared it correctly, how fast would I go? How about a good quality .12?

Thanks

[2canSAM21]

banditwing

If you can get it for that price plus extras I would go that route. I do believe in supporting the local hobby shops, but here one of them wouldn't even order the RTR for me becuase "It's a piece of Junk" and the other wanted full retail. This is after I have spent over $300.00 in the past month in their store. If you have a really cool shop please get it from them.

[Racin Rev]

tarvy and purple,
thanks for the help. the surface is truly unique. when dry it is hard packed but the dirt is essentually a gritty sand. it sticks together well and provides a very hard surface but there is always little bits coming loose so there is always a thin layer of dust on top. on a windy day one would think that it would blow away in practice and leave the track clean but more seems to get kicked up from the surface. The imfar pins look possible, but any more imputs would be appreciated. :)

[andy51289]

RACIN REV- My local track is just like that and we usually run Proline holeshots and bowties. Always use the stock foam on a track like that, or you won't hook up. Also NEVER clean your tires in between rounds for a track like that or you will be sliding all over the place. What I do is I give the dirty tires a good coating of Trinity buggy grip about 10 minuites before the race and give a light coating right before you go out the track. SOMETIMES pink T-2000's will work real good near the end of the day but won't hook up worth a d.a.r.n. during the heats. .. Hope this helps!....

[purplerides]

bandit - losi makes several clutch bells , keep in mind that if if you gear up for top end the bottom end suffers and also if your geared for the top end and are driving in an area were your using the bottom end a lot it's real hard on the motor it will get real hot. most tracks don't require a change from stock , some guys go up a gear to a 19, on real slick tracks to take away bottom end and prevent wheel spin.

A-9380 17-Tooth Clutch Bell

A-9381 18-Tooth Clutch Bell (Machined Cut)

A-9382 19-Tooth Clutch Bell (Machined Cut)

A-9383 20-Tooth Clutch Bell (Machined Cut)

[purplerides]

oh bandit on the motor question , fast enough , if you race or think you may race in the future , you may want to get a race legal .12 , most of the high performance .12's will out perform most .15's it's all up to you.

[banditwing]

Ok, But I mean like in a backyard Im going to be able to use all available speed. HOw about a high performance .12? How fast will that get me going?

Thanks

[Inseno]

Has anyone used or are currently using an aluminum diff...? I've melted 2 of the plastic Losi's and looking to get the Robinson Racing aluminum diff. Anyone have any experience...?

[hypertech]

What's the best rear exhaust manifold to use on the XXX-NT ??

[jdm3849]

Originally posted by banditwing
Ok, But I mean like in a backyard Im going to be able to use all available speed. HOw about a high performance .12? How fast will that get me going?

Thanks

A high performance .12 will go faster than most standard .15's,you will be going fast enough with a .12's horsepower.

[Racin Rev]

Andy,
thanks for the reply. I don't know "buggy grip". It sounds like some kind of sticky stuff. I have this vision of you spraying this goop over layer after layer of debris accumulating on your tires until your tires look like two round clods of dirt going down the track. lol! OK, sorry about the humor at your expense, but seriously, do you spray front and rear or just rear? My stock Losi tires seem fairly hooked up in front.

[andy51289]

Racin Rev- the buggy grip dries really fast, so by the time I'm out on the track, it's dry...I sometimes spray on the front, but I usually can't tell a difference. We also run the camber links on the rear long so that you can get more tracktion.........

[FastEddy]

Originally posted by nitro-fury
For a fully tricked out set up your looking at about $1000

drake kit $319.00
xr3 radio $162.00
z8450 servo $114.00
O.S. Cv-r $150.00
starter box $125.00 (includes charger, glow ignighter and bat)
receiver pack $34.00
trans. pack $19.00
paint & glue $15.00


This is my setup and I love it!!

What is in the Trans Pack?
Part # Links?

[FastEddy]

I am going to enter my first Parking lot oval race.
Any setup hints, springs, oil, susp. settings.

I already got a set of foam tires that seem to be the preferred tire for this race.

Thanks.

[banditwing]

I believe a trans pack is a transmitter rechargable pack. And BTW, sweet setup!

So a good .12, like an O.S., will get me going faster than the Mach .15?

[Nutter]

Inseno: There really isn't any need for the aluminium diff gear.. if you adjust the diff so it doesn't slip, then the diff won't melt - and the diff should never slip. If you're very very sure that you're adjusting the diff correctly (including re-adjusting after the first few minutes of running after a rebuild), then you should probably loosen your slipper clutch; it can (and should) be set very loose on the XXX-NT.
The biggest reason not to run an aluminium diff gear is that if your diff is slipping and melting your diff gear, then more than likely the diff gear will get up to a higher temperature than that caused the plastic diff gear to melt (it'll get hotter because at the point the plastic one melted, the aluminium one will stay together, accumulating more and more heat) - and the diff gear's connected to the plastic idler gear......... you may see a pattern developing here. Adjust your diff correctly. :p

hypertech: The Trinity rear exhaust manifold is good for the XXX-NT apparently, look a page or 2 back in this thread for the part number (one of purplerides posts).
Where in Ontario are you btw? I'm in Oakville, near Toronto.


-Nutter

[hypertech]

Thanks Nutter, I'm in London......

You should take a trip up and give our very rough track a try or even stop by our clubs forum and say hello :)

Heres a link (http://www.londonrc.com/Forum/ubbthreads.php)

[banditwing]

Hehe, one more question, you guys have been really helpfull:

What is the best size glow plug starter for a XXX-NT? Standard or long, or are both good? What are the advantages and disadvantages of each? (Other than size)

Thanks:)

[diesel757]

standard and long are the same, it's just on is longer than the other. the standard should do just fine.....rob

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

yea they are the same...the longer one's advantage is you can take it off without getting your hand too close to the engine head

[banditwing]

Thanks.

I've been thinking. Forget the RTR, forget the Regular Kit. Im gettin' me a Drake edition baby:D :D

I've decided that I want to own a high performance and really sweet truck, something to say, 'yeah that's mine:cool:'

And it's also a kit:D

I'm going to have to wait longer, to make some more money, but I believe that it will be worth it.

I'll also be getting the XR3 along with it.

Other than the radio and glow fuel, and engine, what else do I need?

What is a nice and moderatly priced engine to get for a XXX-NT?

Thanks.

-Banditwing

[banditwing]

Very sorry for all my questions, but here is another, yes another.:rolleyes:

If I want to be able to run the DE in my backyard in some bumpy and chunky grass, and jump off some dirt jumps, can it stand it? I want to be able to run my truck, not having to worry about it breaking, thats why I was thinking the sport.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

you'll need a starter box or pull-start engine...the os .12 cv-r is a good engine...yea the drake can take bashing...it probably wont break as much as the standard kit

[Scrad]

Guy's I need some handling help. My truck needs more on power steering. I'm getting a pretty good push when I'm putting the power down. My setup is pretty close to the Drake one, except I have 30 weight up front. I'm running the Directionals also. So some ideas would be good. Like more neg camber (I'm running -1 all the way around), more toe in, lighter shock springs, thicker weight? Any ideas that I can try? Thanks...

Bandit... I would look at the regular O.S. CV and take a look at the Dynamite motors, they are both cheap and are pretty good motors on a small to medium sized track. But if you have the money the CV-R is great. I love mine, but it has too much power for one of the tracks that I race at.

[postalmal]

I just got a set of RPM Claws for my XXX-NT sport and the front rims do not fit right. When I tighten the nut, the wheel won't spin. Does anyone know of a modification for this. I saw a truck on this forum with the same rims so I know it can be done.

[andy51289]

Originally posted by postalmal
I just got a set of RPM Claws for my XXX-NT sport and the front rims do not fit right. When I tighten the nut, the wheel won't spin. Does anyone know of a modification for this. I saw a truck on this forum with the same rims so I know it can be done.

You probably didn't put that little washer inbetween the nut and the bearing....20 bucks says I'm right! :D ;)

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

maybe you tightened it a little to much but yea you have to put the washer

[Sike]

I have the same promblem with the RPM wheels. I had those washers and all, it just seems it's not a perfect fit. postalmal, lemme guess, those are the ones for the XXT, right?

btw, tomorrow is the day :D . called my lhs today and said the DE will arrive tomorrow. I can't wait.

oh yea, which part on the XXXNT breaks easily? I wanna get some extra parts just incase.

TIA >=]

[DsWright]

Scrad- I have been experimenting with a few different things lately for onpower steering. Adding a little anti-squat seemed to help, and also not haveing much negative suspension travel up front helps.

Inseno- The plastic will be fine, Skipgear from dirtcountry had a good reply for ya in the forum to explain how to keep them from melting=) Hope to see ya there running on the 7th=)

[jdm3849]

Bandit:yes a good O.S. .12 will beat the pants off of a mach .15. I dont have anything against the mach cause im getting that sport rtr really soon.

[dkj-M3]

Has anyone raced or tried the 20t bell, with a 1 hp engine. I'm going to try it next time I'm at this track.
http://dcrcr.2y.net/dcrcr/images/test&tune/Pano.jpg
You can see more pic here- http://dcrcr.2y.net/dcrcr/pictures2002.htm

Scrad - you can try adding some weight to the front.

DS - did you get a new engine yet.

[coolracer15]

Hey guys I need some help i got the XXXNT Sport yesterday and today I get the engine to keep going it also seems to just stop. Any help would be great


One Love

[Railman]

dkj-M3, Naaa, I'd go for the biggest one you can find!:rolleyes: :D
See you on the 7th!:cool:
Joe

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

sike - kewl...my dads drake edition coming tomorrow also

[purplerides]

coolracer - you didn't describe much in detail what is happening , but my guess you trying to break in the motor , stalling abrutly is common on some new engines , due to rich settings and tight piston sleeve fit , just work your way thru it , don't go crazy turning the needles and get there settings all out of wack be patient. try to get a couple tanks thru it first don't drive wide open throttle , after a couple tanks lean the high end 1/8th run a tank thru , let it cool (note: make sure piston is at bdc during cooling), lean another 1/8th and run another tank thru after several tanks it should be pretty good , after you get the top end good adjust the bottom end ( note: on most motors the bottom end doesn't need a whole lot of adjusting 2 -3 clicks normally does it.

[TyroneShoelaces]

Postalmal I use RPM Clawz for my street tires. On my truck, the reason the wheels won't spin is because the inside edge of the rim rubs up against the ballcup. I just used a sharp knife and trimmed off some of the inside edge until there was enough clearance.

[Snobot1]

Hey guys-
Yesterday, after a rough landing, I broke my right rear shock. THe threaded part of the shaft pulled out of the plastic part that is attached to the A-arm. I screwed it back in and continued to run with no problem. But this is the second time that this part (I'm sorry I dont know the proper name) failed, and I had just replaced this part after the first time it happened. Do you guys have this problem. If so, is there something that I can buy to prevent this, like a shock saver so the shocks dont over-exent? Or is there a stronger replacement for the stock part?
thanks-

[DsWright]

DKJ- I think our track record was set with a 19T clutchbell on a 1hp engine. Overgearing might actually work and keep the engine from accelerating to fast and spinning wheels.
Also i should see my new engine in a couple days=) I went with an O.S. .12 TR, and a rear exhaust header for the XXX-nt trinity makes. Can't wait to try it out=) Also ordered some ifmar pins to try out, even with the short chance i got to try your set, i liked the feel and bought some=)

Now i just need to see if i can find some better fuel than blue thunder to run my new motor with, im kinda sick of the smurf blue look on the inside of my engine, heh. The main reason i hate BT though is the fact it spoils FAST, like usually even keeping it in a dark closet with constant temp in my house, it still turns colors before i can seem to use it all=( And i go through a gallon about every 2 weeks between my play truck at the house and race truck, so a gallon should last that long, or at least you would think so.

So you other cincy guys, Inseno, Railman, do you know anywhere in the cincy area i can find Trinity or sidewinder fuel? I have seen Odonnel fuel around alot, but never really liked it.

[Bobbyorr40]

hi

i was just wondering what you need to get the xxx-nt sport runing and how long it will take

[Railman]

DS, Hobbytown off Fields Erltle rd @ Waterstone shopping center carries both, along with some others. You might also consider Wildcat Eliminator. It's the same mix as the Trinity Monster Fuel, & a bit cheaper.
Joe

[postalmal]

Shoelaces, a guy at my LHS told me to do the same thing but said it would be easier to use a file. BTW, I did use the washers, even tried adding a couple of extras. Anyone with a Sport replace the pull start? I just got a new one and it came with a spring. Where does this go? I don't recall seeing a spring when I took off the old one. (maby that's why it broke, LOL)

[rc10tc3drivr]

i ordered the native racing battery box on monday night and they sent me a letter saying they recieved my order but they never sent me a tracking number did they send anyone else a tracking number when you order yours

[racerman333]

whats the advantages of the nativer racing battery box other than it looks cool?

Also does anybody know the recommended factory needle settings for an O.S. CVR??

[Nutter]

Snobot1: I'd just replace that part.. if it's failed once already, then it'll be all too easy for it to fail again now. I havn't had that happen to my NT btw.
You could add a short piece of fuel tubing to the shock shafts too, as it'll soften the impact a bit - but realise that this is like adding spacers to the shocks, and will alter the handling, so make sure that if you do add some fuel tubing that what you add to each shock is *exactly* the same length.

rc10tc3drivr: Don't frett if you don't get a tracking number for everything you order.. I actually find that it's rare to get them. :p

racerman333: Basically it's stronger.. a lot stronger. :) Just one less thing to worry about breaking in a bad landing or a crash. It's also a bit heavier than the stock battery box, so it'll give you some more rear traction (and alter your truck's handling to match of course).


-Nutter

[Sike]

on this Native Racing Battery Box, can you still use the pattery pack from that was specially made for XXXNT?

btw, what has happen to Losifreak2004?!?

[DsWright]

Railman, thanks, i'll head out there on Sun, and i'll hope for a rainout for the Ifmar worlds, so they have to run the D and higher mains on Sun so i can go watch=)

Have to work sat=(

[bullett1818]

Im with Sike where is Losifreak2004!?!?!? I kinda miss his insight on this wonderful truck (XXX NT) -BULLETT-:D :D :D :D :D

[bullett1818]

Oops I double posted. -BULLETT-

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Losifreak hasnt been here in a while...i still talk to him on AIM tho...heres his sn: Lindsays Coconut

[Nutter]

Yea, I've been wondering where he's dissapeared to too. Figure it's just he's really busy with life & work as he's now sponsored & said he'd be doing things like their web site over the summer.

Sike: Yea you can use hump packs (Trinity, Orion, etc) in the NR battery box.. you can't use anything else though.


-Nutter

[ryanbakewell52]

Whats the best way to break in the xxx-nt sport?

[coolracer15]

Ok, Now I have another problem everytime I hit the break the engine stalls any suggestions?


One Love

[HYDRAMATIC99]

Coolracer it sounds like your idle stop screw is not properly adjusted. Adjust it so your carb remains open when you give it full brakes.

[coolracer15]

Thanx Hydra

[spinrep]

Hi just got XXX nt sport RTR broke the front suspension arm replaced them today with grafite, Ran for about an hour broke another arm. Is it my crappy driving or could it be something in my set up. Is there anything beffer then grafite?

[Nutter]

spinrep: Sorry to say it, but it's your driving.. I havn't broken a graphite front arm in over 6 months now, and yes, graphite is the strongest you can get - just give your truck enough time to slow down around obsticles and stop hitting solid things & you'll be fine. :)


-Nutter

[jdm3849]

Graphite isnt the strongest,its actually quite brittle because it is rigid and dosnt flex when you get in a crash so it will break easier than the stock plastic.having softer plastic is like having a bigger bumper, it gives in .

[Scrad]

I remeber some people saying earlier in the thread that they have burned up clutch bearings. I just noticed that mine fell apart on me. Have any of you noticed this and if you have did you use a different brand of bearings other than Losi? I'm just wondering if there is a better bearing out there that won't fall apart.

[dkj-M3]

I use the A-s-s ociated going on 3 gallons with no problems. They have metal on both sides not just one side.

[Sike]

I heard somewhere to make graphite a little less prone to breaking is by putting a coat of CA on the edges

[drdirt]

haha I also crashed often the first few times I tried to run offroad at e town. My son and I switched to dirt oval racing and I still was crashing often, haha I guess I just sucked. As I started to get a handle on it, I also started boiling the stock arms in a pot of water for ten minutes. I haven't popped one since, and I also finished fourth in points. Boil the arms and stop crashing.

[cabbynate]

Scard,
I use the Bocca Ultra seals. If your truck has the new clutch bell Losi has new flangless bearing that are should last longer.http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[AERO LANG]

well it really depends how much you paid for your car. If you got ripped off ay paid 285 like the retail price then u really should treat it with a little more respect but otherwise if you were clever nd paid lets say 255 for it then the track is your oyster and everything in it.
JUST JOKING MATE CNT WAIT TO RACE YOU!

(AND WIN OF COURSE!)

[DsWright]

My drake kit has the flangeless bearings, just inspected them today while putting in my new 12TR=)

I have 2 gallons on mine so far and they are still in very good shape, i was very surprised.

If your running the new bell, try them out.

[Scrad]

I have the kit version, so I think I might have the older style. How can I make sure if it is older or the new version? Also what's the part number for the new flangless bearings?

[coolracer15]

Is there a 2-speed tranny for the XXXNT?

[Racin Rev]

coolracer,
the xxxnt is a racing truck not a play truck. play trucks like the duratrax have 2 speeds but racing trucks do not.

[ryanbakewell52]

I hate your attitude towards rc thinking that all beginners are rubbush and cant even win a race. Just cus u have got a futaba £1000 radio and mine was only £45.

Sorry aaron just had to get u bak (but no very well i couldn't think of oat else)

[rc10tc3drivr]

i just got my native battery box and i kinda feel ripped off i payed 29.10 with shipping and it gets here and i open the box and i see two alluminum plates and some screws i know that they are trying to make a profit but there is noway all that stuff cost more than $10 to make

[dkj-M3]

Scrad - With the old clutch bell a non-flanged bearing will slide all the way though the clutch bell. With the update cluctch bell there is a step in the middle that non-flanged bearing rests against. With the new clutch bell you can run both flanged and non-flanged.
Straight from Drake.

[banditwing]

Coolracer- can't reply to that cause I know nothing about tuning gas engines whatsoever. Sorry:(

I was taking a look (well actually drooling over:D ) the DE in RCCA and I noticed: Where are the CVD'S????? All I see is the same driveshafts as the Sport, only they are anodized at the end.

I can't wait to get the DE, even though it's going to be a while.:D
To everyone that has put a XXX-NT together: How hard was it? How long did it take you? I finished my Rustler kit in about a day and it was fairly easy. I am looking for an enjoyable challange with the DE.:)

I think I will get a Dynamite, and use it as a crap engine, like to learn all the basics of engine tuning with. Then maybe get a good OS to race with after I've beaten the Dynamite to dust.

And to add to Sike's question; What is the part that breaks the most often on a XNT?

Thanks

[purplerides]

Banditwing - they supply the stock type drive shaft because most gas trucks are run on a rough surface and the stock shaft's perform better then cvd's on rough tracks , and in my opinion are much less trouble , and are more bullet proof then cvd's.

the truck goes together very well the direction are great , there so good they make simple for inexperienced people , i do recommend the you get a 4-40 tap to pretap all the graphite , losi does give you a special screw to pretap them with but a standard tap would make it easier.

the parts that break the most depends on who's driving it , i would have to say front A-arms would be the most broken across the board , you may want to consider the standard losi material for replacements , i found they hold up slightly better then the graphite , the graphite are so stiff and is no give to them which makes them brittle. and cost more to boot.

as far as the engine goes if get the dynamite your description on how your going to use it is correct it's a crap engine. get an O.S. if you don't want to spend the bucks on the high end one just get the standard cv, i think you'll like it better.

[DsWright]

The power of the .12 CV standard engine isn't anything to sneeze at really. It's not a 12Tr, or an italian mill by any means, but it's still runs well=)

Most people who run at a club level can race them competitively.

[jdm3849]

ok,this is a really retarded question,the xxx-nt takes side exhaust engines only right? because some cars take both.

[banditwing]

How much does the CV cost compared to the Dynamite? I just want something reliable, that can take the mistuning of a nitro newbie. It doesn't have to be fast. It just has to be cheap and reliable enough to last a bit.

I found the new Airtronics radio. It looks like this (http://www.airtronics.net/airtronics_new_mx3.htm) is the one for me.

[jdm3849]

How much does it cost? if its alot you dont need that,the more gadgets something has the most likely something is going to go wrong with it. And since you said you want a RELIABLE engine you should get a reliable radio thats simple and bulletproof.

ive seen dynamites for 90$ and i believe the O.S, sells for 110$

[banditwing]

Oh, I'm just getting a reliable engine because I am new to nitro and don't want to screw up a nice engine. I am not new to RC. I currently have a Futbaba MJ or something like that for my ERustler. It was like $40. It's nice and reliable.

I am looking to get more involved in RC and become a more serious racer. I also don't want to swap radio systems (as easy as it may be) to run my Drake rather than my Rustler. That is why im getting another radio, and I want it to be a good one.

The price is only $108!!! for the transmitter, reciever and 1 servo. I don't need 2 cause I got a old s3003 futaba lyin around. Then I will upgrade to some better servos (Can you say high torq:D ) in the future. I know I need a adapter to use a futaba in an airtronics.

I am in no ways a newbie to RC, just to nitro. I think I can handle a radio;) :) :D

[DsWright]

Bandit, definatly if this is your first engine get an O.S. CV, you will NOT find a more forgiving engine, and im sure 99% of this forum will probably agree with that=)

And it makes enough power to be competitive, just don't expect to run over the guys with the italian mills=)

[DsWright]

ANYONE have any idea of the setup drake used to win the 2002 midwest winter gas championships?

Im going to run this track all winter starting in sept, and im curious what setup drake used. I have heard (though i think it's nothing more than a rumor) that the DE truck which i bought was a direct copy of what he used to win there, and the setup for the drake kit was different from drakes standard setup, and this is the setup he used.

Anyone know?

[jdm3849]

Originally posted by jdm3849
ok,this is a really retarded question,the xxx-nt takes side exhaust engines only right? because some cars take both.

[DsWright]

I had a side exhaust engine, just put in a rear exhaust engine, you have to use the trinity manifold for it though to fit under body, forget the part # offhand, but it's made for rear exhaust trucks to fit under body.

But all kits come with side exhaust manifolds.


Edit: found the part #. Trinity #8125 manifold for rear exhaust engines.

[Racin Rev]

I have a regular xxxnt kit. the only persistent problem i have had is with ball cups. I break them regularly. Recently, i replaced the stock units with some aftermarket brand the name of which escapes me now. At the same time i went with Ti turnbuckles. today, while practicing, i had a ball cup fail. It didn't crack like the losi ones, instead it kind of bent. It appears that there is a lot of thread sticking outside of the ball cup and not very much in, which seems to be causing a weakness. My question is this: would anyone advise me to go with a longer turnbuckle? and if so, what size would you recommend? the rear seems to have the worst problem.

[jdm3849]

Is the company for the ballcups called RPM? Cause i hear they make heavy duty ones.

[dkj-M3]

Racin Rev - get the RPM's if you don't already have them, & use traxxas captured ends on the rear inside links.

DS - I have what your lookin for, from Drake directly & that's the track I run at through the winter. It's the Dirt-Hemit, Cali Set-up with directionals front-stock losi foam & pink taper-pins with trinity bomb 1 grey foams in the rear.

[DsWright]

DKJ- thanks for the info, im about 99% sure im gonna run CRCRC myself this year.

do they have a club you have to join to get points if you finish well? or just show up and race?

Btw, the 12TR is broken in, man that thing has some power!

I also added a good digital servo finally, can't wait to get back out to the track now, as that stock servo wasn't cutting it for steering.

[dkj-M3]

DS - It's just like Dirt Co. Except they have their own tables you might need a chair. I didn't start racing until I saw Drake win CRCRC's big race in Jan. but I think they start a point series at the begining of the season.

When DC's not racing I race here http://www.cbrcr.com/ it's a little more tech than DC but it's still fun.

I'm out.

[XXXJohnny]

What do you guys mean when you boil your A-arms? I have seen this in this forum a few times. I have broken mine just jumping also. Are the graphite arms weaker than the ones that come on it? how should I go about boiling mine?

[banditwing]

Hmm...

I think I may go with the OS. Now while I was thinking about it, that the CV is from a name brand (like OS) and has to be good. (Well it can't be bad or they wouldn't be selling it):rolleyes:

I found the CV (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=sh2801&FVPROFIL=++) on tower. But does this one have a pullstart?

I know that this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p.pgm?FVSEARCH=OSMG2011&FVPROFIL=++) one has a pull start, but is it the same as the CV?

Is a pull start worth the extra $25??? I am going to be running it in my yard, and racing too. But I am concerned about the extra cost of a starter box and the weight of having to lug it around my yard.

What do you think?

Thanks
-Banditwing

[XXXJohnny]

I just saw this picture and i think trinity rear pivot is on a different way than this one. it is upside down. Mine has been doing wheelies and doughnuts when I try to drag race. it cant hook up on light dirt. Should I mount mine like the one on the link? Please give me advise on how to get better traction in the rear. I am running proline dirt hawgs. they are allterrain.

http://www.villagephotos.com/pubimage2.asp?id_=320498

[DsWright]

A starter box will make learning nitro alot more enjoyable for ya=)

Many nitro noobs end up with sores on there hands from pullstarts, i did myself with my first engine.

And starting a pullstart engine is easy IF your good at tuning them, a starter box will get it going regardless usually=) and it's not that big of a deal to carry around, for the hassle it saves, you won't complain=)

Ofna sells a good RTR box, for about 99$, it includes everything, battery, glow ignitor, power panel, might still need a charger though.

I would put that 25$ towards a starterbox if i were you, but if you decide to get a pullstart, use a hairdryer or a source of heat like a heatgun on the engine to warm it up some before starting it when it's cold, especially before it's broken in, will save you alot of trouble.

[DsWright]

Make sure your rear pivot block is correct and your back wheels point a little to the inside of your front wheels, if they point to the outside that is toe out in the rear and it will REALLY destroy any handling.


Dirthawgs aren't really ideal dirt tires, i have a pair myself, and i only use them for grass or on the street as im not afraid to wear them out. But traction is 90% tires 10% setup, so you may want to try something different. The right tires for what your running on makes ALL the differance.

[XXXJohnny]

No I have the right toe in. however it is flipped the wrong way. picture a quarter on its head. flip it upside down and it will be on its tails. understand. I am at work right now so when I get home I will check for sure.

On the tires. What is the best tire to run on the street and dirt? I have the stock losi's but i dont want to run them on the street and wear them down. what are you guys running. any links where i can check them out? Thanks.

[Racin Rev]

Yeah, they are rpm's. the problem seems to be that the turnbuckle only seems to be 3/8" or less in the cup, so the turnbuckle bends out of the hole.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

XXXJohnny - Pro-lines dirt hawgs II work good for street and dirt. Dirt works looks like it will do good in street and dirt.

[coolracer15]

Ok, my truck is running pretty good now, but it sounds like it got a lot louder than before is that normal? and if not how do I fix it

thanks

One Love

[banditwing]

Originally posted by DsWright

Ofna sells a good RTR box, for about 99$, it includes everything, battery, glow ignitor, power panel, might still need a charger though.


Ok, but what kind of batteries does it take? Regular 1500 mah? From my Rustler I got a charger and 3 1500's and 2 1700's.

By glow ignitor you mean the thingy that heats the glow plug? I don't quite know the terms for nitro yet. What is a power panel?

I think I will go with a starter box, cause I know I'll just have to buy one in the future anyway:rolleyes:

[banditwing]

I was looking at some starter boxes. Will this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=1&I=LE3749&P=1) one work for the XXX-NT?

How about this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p.pgm?FVSEARCH=HCAP0120&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go) charger?

Thanks

[jcnmt]

hey are any of you going to the ROAR offroad fuel nationals?i am!i,m either gonna bring my factory team gt or buy a drake !i cant wait!:D

[speedydave]

banditwing, I know someone with that starter box and the XXXNT, so it'll work fine. YOu just have to adjust the pegs so it line up, which isn't hard.

[jdm3849]

I want spare glow plugs just in case for the losi sport when i get it,what o.s. plugs will work because im ordering a whole bunch of stuff from tower and they only carry odonell(sp) duratrax,o.s..

[DsWright]

Bandit, that will work perfectly, the 12V batty included with that box will last MUCH longer than if you use battery packs like some people do.

I only charge my box overnight once a month, and i run at least 2 races a month plus other cars at home. The powerpanel will also take care of your glow ignitor, so that's one less thing you have to buy/charge.

One warning about that ofna box, KEEP FLUIDS OUT OF THE MOTORS! This should be a no brainer, but try not to spill fuel or anything into them, they won't last to long if ya do.

Other than that you should be very happy with it.

When i bought my first bumpstart engine/box my enjoyment of this hobby improved 10X over=)

[purplerides]

XXXJOHNNY - that looks like a trinity mount in the picture , it is installed wrong , the set screws should face up away from the ground. i'd find a different tire , you have to find the tire that works where your running first , before making any suspension changes.

Bandit - as the others have said , i think you'll enjoy the starter box better then the pullstart , the pullstarts break as you indicated there $25. each you'll more then likely break more then enough pullstarts to have paid for the box so the box is cheaper in the long run. The cv is a good reliable motor that is easy to tune and very fast , it may not stay with some of the higher end motors , assuming there tuned right , but i guess that at most tracks , the track conditions will even the odds, many of them high hp motors have been whooped by a cv on more then one occassion.

Coolracer - the first places i'd check for the source of the noise are , make sure the header bolts are tight , inspect the coupling between header and pipe , make sure pressure line is on.

[Keemos]

banditwing... i used that starter for my xxxnt. has everything you need except for the charger for the gel cell. this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXL353&P=0) is what i use to charge it.

[Sike]

ok, 6 hours so far through my assembly on my new DE. only thing needed is radio and body. maybe 1-2 hours more.

I really like Losi's manual. very easy to follow. I only read it just to double check something.

I did come across something. Anybody had a problem install the bolts that connects the brake calipers? mine loosen up after wiggling numerous times.

[XXXJohnny]

purplerides
Cool I guess mine is installed correctly. But what tire do you run on yours for street and dirt?

[Nutter]

XXXJohnny: It sounds like you're (still) asking what tires you can get that will work well on the street aswell as the dirt, and there aren't any. I'm sure your Dirt Hawgs are fine for the street, but for dirt you will have to choose a tire depending on the type of dirt. Have a look at the tire guide on Losi's site: http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/tirechart/tirechart.htm


-Nutter

[Keemos]

I agree… there is no tires that I know of that would work in both street and dirt. I use Losi’s pre-mounted T-90 tires for running around on any type of pavement then switch to off-road tires when racing at my local track.

~ Keemos

[wjj]

Dirt hawgs are your best bet for on and of road bashing, thats what I have on my truck.

[DR.GT]

Hi all:

Just thought I'd let you know that my son ran my XXXNT and won the Westwern Canada Offroad Championships this last weekend in Calgary, Alta.
The race was a 40 minute Main and he led from the pole (TQ'd) to finish except for 1 lap on a fuel stop. He had 3 minor bobbles in the whole race and won by almost 2 laps on the 2nd place XXXNT. They were the only 2 losi trucks at the whole race.

The track was a ROUGH, SLIPPERY clay base, tight, lots of jumps, chicanes,(about 39-40 second laps for TQ pace) etc. He got 59 laps in 40:03.

His setup was the same as the AD edition (at the Dirt setup from losi sight) except with 35W all around, red front and pink rear springs, 1 X .20 washer under each side of the back end of the rear pivot block, Silver directional in front and silver reptiles in rear. A MT.12 with slide carb ( blue medium restrictor) Rossi pipe.

:D

[XXXJohnny]

what does this do? should it be done to the fron or rear? graphite or plastic?? please let me know what the bennefit is. Bye

[dkj-M3]

I read somewhere on HPI's forum that it gives the plastic parts more give or flex. but if you wreck stuff still breaks, even titanium, no matter what car or truck it is.

[XXXJohnny]

I wish they had aluminum a-arms.

[drdirt]

boiling the arms takes some of the brittleness out of them thats all. it is not a magic cure all. it just helps a little when we're a noob. it wont work on graphite. i've been looking for aluminum arms for 4 months, but alas have not been successful. good luck have fun

[jdm3849]

As of yet do you guys know if a company makes ANY woven graphite parts?

[neerg]

which way does the trinity pivot block go on? set screws down facing the ground or up?and what difference does it make?

[rc10tc3drivr]

set screws facing up

[neerg]

why?? just trying to learn.

[DR.GT]

neerg:

If you drive on a real slippery track you'll find that installing the block with the set screws facing down will give you much more rear traction.
This changes the anti squat from 2* to 0* prosquat I believe. If you don't have the pivot block just add a .20 washer under each rear corner of the stock block. Also add the 1* outside carrier blocks if possible to increase your rear toe-in to 4* per side. You'll be amazed at the increase of rear traction. Only drawback is a very slight
decrease in jumping ability. If you read the above post I placed you'll see that it didn't hurt my son's driving at all on a rough ,slippery, bumpy, lots of jumps style track.

:D

[speedydave]

What's wrong with me, guys? I've had my FTGT for about 4 months, and the Losi truck is starting to appeal to me...It all started when I was watching the guy I was pitting for...his truck looked so much more planted than mine...I dunno guys...the Losi(or Mugen) just looks better and better to me...

[cabbynate]

Not slamming anyone but if you get 2dg anti-squat when the block is mounted set screws up, than wouldn't you get 2dg pro squat when it is flipped upside down. ;)

[DR.GT]

Cabbynate:

I really don't know what you'd call it, I believe I heard that on the TT site by BH but I could be wrong and need to be corrected. Thats why I said "I believe" but I'm definitely open to what it would be called. I do know that it works to get the rear planted though. Thanks for the partial slam though....:D

[DsWright]

STOP HITTING STUFF!

:D

Seriously, as you get better at driving, you will stop breaking most of your parts.

I used to be lucky to finish a 5 min heat without breaking stuff, i do fine now, only thing i broke last race day was a rear ball joint, but that is common.

Use the regular plasic arms until you stop breaking them, then go graphite.:cool:


Also, aluminum arms will NOT solve your breakage problems! they will just cause your pivotblocks and bulkheads to break. Then when you upgrade those to aluminum there is nothing left to absorb a bad impact if you have one, forcing them to bend or break off hingpins. If you don't believe me ask a guy with an all aluminum T-maxx how much he likes it, you will probably be surprised at the answer. and that he bends stuff instead of breaks it.

[cabbynate]

DR.GT,
I never Tried to flip over the rear block though I do use the .20 shims in the rear of the block. It gives you about 1dg rear anti-squat and a little more rear traction. With the block upside down,
how does the truck jump?

[Sike]

finally finished my DE and the .12 cv-r installed. I have some questions....

*I followed the instructions carefully on how to install a rotary carb on the XXNT. I adjusted it so from idle to brake, it has the same carb opening (1mm). However, with this, when I WOT the carb opening is only half way. If I try adjusting the servo angle, it will fully open but the idle is half open.

*Did anybody had a problem with the brake hub? mine just popped off. I lost it. Lucky I wasn't going stright to a wall. anybody modify something on this area?

*I think I made a mistake somewhewre. It seems that this thing rev sooooo much before it starts moving. And that even happen when my brake hub was missing (no brakes)

any help is appreciated
TIA!

[DsWright]

Never had a problem with the brake hub.

As far as it revving high to move, does it roll very easily when you just push it along? If not your gear mesh is to tight and causeing it to bind.

[Sike]

gear mesh? manual's not here. which one is the gear mesh?

I adjusted the spur gear 5 turns from fully close.
the gap between the spur and pinion is just enough to slip a paper in there.

one more thing. when I turn right, it seems that I need more room. turning left however is pretty close. The truck run straight when not turning

[Railman]

DrGT, Is that an Assoc. carb restrictor that you used, & if not what is it? Did it change the power band a noticable amount? Was it easier to run cooler with it? Did it help the fuel economy? I also run an MT12 with a slide, & it seems to be a gas hog. BTW, great job by your son! :cool:
Thanks,
Joe

[FastFreddy]

I just bought a slightly used XXX-NT RTR with the XR2 radio from a pawn shop for $150:D . It already has graphite front arms. I want to know what else I should upgrade to either fix known issues with the stock parts or to improve function. I tried to do a search for a similar question but it didn't work since this is a thread. Thanks for your help! Tim

[DR.GT]

Cabbynate:

I use the .20 washers as well because I'm backordered on the trinity block but my local friend has the trinity block on his truck. Its set up the same as mine and jumps well too. If I remember correctly I believe BH said that the trinity block upside down puts more weight over the wheels. A picture of the track we raced at is at www.speedybones.com (look under Calgary Race).

Railman:

Thanks for the congrats for my son. He is a fine driver. Yes its the AE blue restrictor we use on the MT.12 with the slide carb. Neither him or I use a rotary carb because we like the response from the slide much more. The restrictor slides right inside the carb throat. The end point was set for about 85% open throttle. We started the race at 8:00 minutes for the first pitstop but ended up coming in at 8:45 minutes per tank after the first pitstop during the rest of the race. He temped in at 177* at races end. During practice he was getting a little over 11 minutes. To get traction he backed the slipper off enough to only get wheel spin if he really punched it. We still could easily run with any truck on the straightaway. During the weather changes over the weekend the hottest the MT.12 ran was 217*. This might have had something to do with the altitude as well (about 2500' above sea level).



:)

[razataz]

:confused: Hi am a new. Just wondering if the ass. torq pipe would be better than the stock pipe for the mach?
I will be running on a track with one 40' straight a couple 10' straights and alot of jumps.I no the ass. pipe is for low end punch. What is the stock pipe for low ,hi end? thanks for any help.

[cabbynate]

I run the AE pipe with a Picco .12 and I like it. It may not be better tham the pipe that came with the RTR though.

[Crashbot2001]

Hey guys, I'm new to this Forum. I've been running nitro for about 7 months now. I have a Rustler and a 4-tec. I went to a race or two and I was hooked. Of course that meant time to upgrade equipment. I picked up a XXXnt RTR used from E-bay at a decent price. Still stock except for the front a-arms which have been switched to graphite.

I was wondering if I should run the stock engine or switch it with the one I have in my Rustler. I have an OS .12 CZ that screams. Still less than a gallon on the original piston and sleeve. I will have to replace the cam as the shaft was cut to fit my Rustler, but according to the OS discontinued engines parts list, it's the same cam as the OS CV.

Also considered picking up a CVR, but that would have to be down the road a little bit.

[Railman]

DRGT, Thanks for the info! I'll try one this week end.
Another question:
I have always run MC59 plugs in all our engines ( all .12). Lately I've been thinking about trying an MC8, so I can run a little leaner
& still run cool. As it is now, I can only get about 7 1/2 to 8 minutes max on 20% fuel, & that's running at about 260. After 1 1/2 gallons, the compresion on my engine is just insane. I think thats why it tends to run hot. It will be in the low 90's on race day, on a big, fairly fast 32 second track. Have any of you guys tried an MC8 in your engines? It falls in between the MC9, & MC59 on heat. The original MT plug was so cold that it was hard to start. With the crazy compresion, I'm thinking maybe the MC8 might be the ticket for longer run time, without overheating. The other option would be to add a head shim.
Thanks,
Joe

[DR.GT]

Railman:

I use a Mc59 and have never had an inkling to change. The rossi .12's really like this plug. When running in hot outside temperatures you will normally have to run leaner. One trick if you can't get the temp down is to run a hotter plug and richen up your engine. This should bring your temperature down some or you can retune and try 25-30% nitro (I use 20%) and this could bring the temperature down some also. Adding a shim to the head would be a last resort in most cases.

Always remember that the low speed needle controls your engine temperature. If its to lean you cannot move the heat from the crankcase to the head for proper heat distribution and no matter how much you richen the top end you'll never run cool. Also a lean bottom end is 90% the culprit for flameouts in a race. As to a relevant temperature you must remember that using a guideline (220*) is nice but variables can change that. When your engine is making the most power, running real good with no problems then you will get results of maximum efficiency, power, life, and fuel milage and this could be anywhere from 180* to 260* on any given day. ( so don't get locked into a temperature just use a number like 220* as a rough guide).

When I tune for a race the longest idle time I usually tune for is about 7-10 seconds after which time the engine will flood and die
if the engine is not cleared out sooner. I have seen racers bragging that their engines will run forever idling but I have never won a race flaming out or idling.

:)

[ryanbakewell52]

Whats the best way to brake in the xxx-nt sport?
Please

[purplerides]

sike - it sounds to me either you forgot the big C-clip that holds the brake hub on or wasn't on right the clip popped then the hub followed.

as far as revving check the slipper or diff isn't slipping.

[diesel757]

Dr. GT;(a non-related subject) I was wrong about a thread that I posted on about the CMB engine. my buddy is running a SH engine. He was talking about maybe getting the CMB S1 for his next purchase. I thought he said he was running a S1....sorry about that.:rolleyes: rob

[DR.GT]

Diesel757:

No problem man. Thanks for the update I appreciate it. I haven't taken the plunge yet ($ problem) but the CMB is going to be my next engine for sure.

:)

[Sike]

purple. I think your right about the big e-clip. come to think of it, I didn't remember putting back on. I am running with some people tomorrow but no hobby shop were open. I just improvised and use one of my extra hex wheel hub from my nitro 4tec and form it to fit the brake hub. it works really great. it's the exact depth too.

I checked my diff and I put the other way around (adjusting screw is by the spur gear side instead of the other). The wheel seems to move more freely now. not sure if that makes a difference (find out tomorrow)

one more thing. Is this a camber or toe adjustment. when I turn to the left, I make a circle of 3 feet diameter. when I turn right, it's about 4 1/2 feet with the same speed. The truck runs straight though

I appreciate the help. :D

[tarvymoto]

Sike , that is an Radio "end point" adjustment that you need to make in order to have the same turning radius in both directions. What radio do you have?

[XXXJohnny]

What is a good temp to be running? I just got a MIP temp guage and my engine has gotten uo to 260 degrees. It is real fast and responsive. however it takes a while when I warm the engine up. it is usually loaded with gas. If I lean the low speed needle to make it run better wont it get hotter? I am trying to learn how to tune. Give me sone tips please. will 25% nitro make it run hotter also?

[Sike]

tarvymoto - JR XR3

[FastEddy]

Originally posted by XXXJohnny
[B]What is a good temp to be running? [B]
What engine are you using?

[FastEddy]

XXXJohnny,
If you are "properly tuned" using 20% nitro, switching to 25% will usually make you run cooler at the same settings. This is assuming that your engine is running well and properly tuned.

Using 25-30% will allow you to lean out your settings to give you more power and keep the same temps.

If you are learning to tune, you may want to stick with 20% until you get the hang of it. 25-30% is a lot less forgiving.

[tarvymoto]

Sike , your radio does have endpoint adjustmenst. Check out your directions and LMK if you need some help.

[XXXJohnny]

FastEddy, I have a Picco .15

Is it true that the low needle controls temp? If I richen the low needle will it lower my engine temp? It gets up to 260 degrees and that seems a bit hot.

[andy51289]

FastEddy is exactly right! Running more nitro = cooler temps!

[FastEddy]

Tarvymoto,
I totally disagree with you on this point. Give it a try I think you will see.

XXXJohnny.
Both the LSN and HSN will contribute to the temps. The LSN has more effect on the temps when running from 0 to say around ½ throttle. And the HSN will have more affect in the upper range. But it is a difficult balancing act.

Most of the time you shouldn’t be running WOT only for short 1-2 second bursts.

Everyone will give you a different method to tune. I don’t think that 260 is to high for a peak temp but you may want to try to keep it around 210-250 for max engine life.

Here in an article that should get you going read all 4 pages.

Tuning (http://www.rccaraction.com/rn/articles/super_tune.asp)

[jdm3849]

Originally posted by andy51289
FastEddy is exactly right! Running more nitro = cooler temps!

With more nitro your engine will be running faster which will make it get more hot than before.

[FastEddy]

Originally posted by jdm3849


With more nitro your engine will be running faster which will make it get more hot than before.
Not true,
Think about it...

20,000 rpm with 20% will not be any faster then
20,000 rpm with 30%.

I know it doesn’t seem right but your engine will run cooler with 25% if kept at the same settings you used to tune with 20% Fuel.

Give it a try.

[jdm3849]

OK:not faster, stronger

WE have used 20% nitro with my friends P10M and then weve run 25% with it,the hyper gets alot more hot but its also more powerful

[Alex-XXXNT]

Whats up guys. Good to see you guys are still as helpful as last time as was in here. Keep up the good work!
Well, after a month of tuning, I think I am finally figuring this nitro thing out :) From reading your posts and responses to others, I have learned a lot.

++
I have a couple of problems though.

1) My spur gear (big gear) is wearing down in the inside. It looks as though it is slipping or something. Any deas what is causing this/ and how I can fix it?

2) Also, I have my engine tuned pretty well now. Though I have to use my throttle trim to get the idle like i want it. Is this a bad thing to do? Also, from tuning tips I have read, the idle is supposed to run high for about 10-20 seconds, then drop down. Mine doesnt do that. It pretty much sounds the same all the time. I have it set so I can apply the break with out stalling. Also, I have it set so it does not kreep. If I try to lower the idle too much, it will stall when I apply the break. This is why I use the trottle trim to fine tune it.

Thanks.

[tarvymoto]

Fast Eddy , I totaly disagree with your comment here.

There is an article by Steve Pond on the rcnitro website. Go to the articles tab then scroll down to "Super Engine Tuning". You will read on page 2 ,under the "changing fuel" heading that Higher Nitro content requires a richer setting and sometimes another head shim.Higher nitro messes with combustion and increases compresion.Click on the "read more about Fuel" link to read an article devoted to this subject.
Bottom line is that the engine manufactures recomend a Ntro % for a reason. Compresion ratios and the timing and duration of fuel intake are considered when designing an engine , and changing nitro content changes copresion..ect. Guys please be sure about these things before you post some info that could cause harm to someones engine or give them trouble tring to tune it.

[FastFreddy]

during it's first teardown as though cap screw was tightened too much at the factory. Has this been a problem? How well does Losi work with customer's with probs like this?
Thanks!

[FastEddy]

Tarvymoto,
In several aspects you are absolutely correct.
Yes, A higher nitro fuel will allow you to tune richer, thus creating the opportunity for higher heat. However, if you run the same settings you have tuned with 20% your temps will be cooler without the loss of power.

Why would someone do this?
Well maybe I want to run WOT for a longer period of time. Seeing as how I now have 25% nitro I will run with the same power but my engine will be richer providing more lubricant. Wa-La cooler temps.

Loose the book, go buy some 25-30% and give it a try.
If you look back at the original question and answer you will se that I was very careful in the way I answered the question and gave a very clear explanation. Using 25%-30% does take tuning skills and isn’t recommended for beginning tuners to help with heat problems.


Alex-XXXNT.
Question #1
An un even wear pattern on your spur may be caused buy your engine being mounted a but un-evenly. When you adjust your mesh pay particular attention to the angle of your engine.

[Alex-XXXNT]

Well, I have the RTR .15 so I figure the engine is mounted correctly. Plus I have no idea what your trying to explain to me since Im a slack RTR owner. :) Can you think of any other reasons for the wear? If not, could you explain the mesh thing a little better.
Thanks.

[tarvymoto]

FastEddy , my intent is not to go around and around with you. I do encourage anyone that needs some help and info about tuning and running a higher Nitro % to read the article mentioned in my previous post.

[FastEddy]

Tarvymoto,
Nor do I.

The article you mentioned is very similar to the one in my original post.
Both give great info and should be read by everyone even as a refresher by more experienced tuners.

[FastFreddy]

Here you go, bro! Right off of Team Losi web page~

Gear Adjustment; to be able to accomplish a number of things critical to the design, Gil Jr. had to incorporate adjustable motor mounting. Don’t worry though, setting the proper gear mesh is not difficult. The bottom of the NT chassis has machined slots where the motor mounting screws and countersunk washers go. These slots help tremendously in keeping the motor straight and the gear teeth aligned. With the mounting screws loose slide the motor back until the gears are tight to one another. Move the motor forward about 1/32”. If you have trouble judging this, try placing a small strip of notebook paper between the gears where the pinion on the clutch bell contacts the spur before you slide the motor back. After securing the motor, the paper should roll out from between the gears with a fair amount of resistance. In either case, after the motor mount screws have been tightened there should be a slight bit of backlash as you rotate the spur gear. You want the gears to get about 80 to 90% engagement. To check this you can either rely on the “feel” as you hold the clutch bell and rotate the spur back and forth or look directly at the gears from the right side of the truck as you rotate the rear tires. There should only be a slight bit movement between the gears. The mesh is too tight if there is no movement between the gears or they make noise and the tires do not spin freely. Move the motor forward slightly to correct this. If there is additional movement or the wheels spin freely but the gears “slap” teeth as they rotate the mesh is probably too loose. Moving the motor back slightly will correct this. After you have tried several settings and techniques and observed the engagement from the side you should have no trouble getting a good mesh.





Originally posted by Alex-XXXNT
Well, I have the RTR .15 so I figure the engine is mounted correctly. Plus I have no idea what your trying to explain to me since Im a slack RTR owner. :) Can you think of any other reasons for the wear? If not, could you explain the mesh thing a little better.
Thanks.

[Railman]

FastEddy, In a previous post you said that with a higher nitro, you could run richer, & therefore create more heat. That's just not how it works. Lean conditions cause overheating, & running on the rich side is what keeps temps down. That's just the way it is. Also higher % nitros generally have more oil, which also tends to make the fuel a higher viscosity. Although I've not done it myself, from what I've read on this board from people who have, you generally need to richen a higher nitro fuel to keep the same temps, & still keep the same fuel economy. I think at least part of this is due to the increase in oil, thus resulting in a thicker (higher viscosity) fuel, which needs a bigger orafice (needle settings) to pass the fuel. Just my $.02
Joe

[Alex-XXXNT]

thanks Freddy!!!
.....wish me luck. I dont know what half those words mean.
I guess I will soon though.

[FastFreddy]

Feel free to ask more questions here or at hpiracing.com's forum for off-road nitro trucks non-hpi @
http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=23 .

[Sike]

man.... I haven't had any good luck with this truck. I guess my expectations were high. the revving was still there. someone told me to tighten the diff gear adjusting screw. I did and that worked. It was still a bit slipping so I tighten it a bit more. When you spin on wheel, the other side spin on the same direction. It's not like my XXXT that when it becomes that way, I tighten it too much.

Anywho, even though it was tight, I run. and man o man. That thing hauls. after 4-5 of running. it stops. The engine still ran but not moving. I open the transmission and the whole inside of the diff is gone. the balls were all over inside the case. lucky nothing was missing.

Now, how tight are you suppose to be with the XXXNT on the diff adjusting screw. I had a problem with my XXXT before that I tighten it a little too much and the 4-40 mini locknut just stripped.

hope this is not the XXXNT I expected :(

[DsWright]

Your diff is NOT A SLIPPER! it should never ever ever ever slip!

I have heard alot of the RTR XXX-NT's had loose diffs, so your not alone, just rebuild it, and tighten it till it doesn't slip.

Look on the losi site under tips/tricks, they have a whole section on the XXX-NT diff and proper adjustment of it.

Also some have changed from springs to washers on the diff screw, and also the aluminum diff nut.

Me i run stock washers and nut from the Drake edition kit, i have no problems with my diff.

And i wouldn't blame luck for your problems;) One thing that most people don't realise is there is no such thing as a ready to run in this hobby, all of them need to be taken apart and reassembled at least a little with some locktite, or adjusted properly before running.

But good luck with it=)

[FastFreddy]

Hey FastEddy, I didn't see your username before I registered. I transferred mine from the HPI forum. If you would like me to change to make things clearer I will. Let me know....

[FastEddy]

Fast Freddy,
No big deal for me.
I read this forum a lot but don’t realy like to post much.
I have been in R/C for over 30 years (ouch) but am new to the XXXNT. I don’t think I have a lot to offer with NT specific info.
Thanks for the offer but it doesn’t bother me. If you would like I can change mine. Let me Know.
Ed

[FastEddy]

Railman,
I think you miss-read my post.
Quote:
A higher nitro fuel will allow you to tune richer, thus creating the opportunity for higher heat. However, if you run the same settings you have tuned with 20% your temps will be cooler without the loss of power.

Yes a richer setting = cooler temps & less power than a lean setting.
Sorry if there was any confusion.

I wont bring this subject up again. I got my hand slapped by tarvymoto who thought I was trying to tell people to use higher nitro content to help run cooler. This was not my intent I was just answering a question from another post. Don’t try this unless you are an experienced tuner.

[FastFreddy]

No need to change then...it's fine by me. I'm faster though;) LOL...FF

[XXXtacy]

I'm seeing lots of people frustrated w/ the diff-

When I built my first XXXNT, I didn't like the way the diff went together( w/ the washers) at all. Figured Losi knew what they were doing, so I built it that way. It never seemed smooth to me when tightened so that it didn't slip- I fried one diff gear, then decided to build the diff a bit differently.

Instead of putting the washers in all one direction, I did this:

------+<><><


I'm using associated diff lube & black grease too-I haven't toasted a gear since- and it's smooooth. I've had others w/ NT's checking out the car on a stand, feel the diff action and say
"Dude, your diff is messed up"
"You're gonna fry your diff"
etc, etc...
But- it's perfect. It works like a diff is SUPPOSED to work...No, YOUR diff is messed up. That's how it SHOULD feel.

It has action that rivals the smooth operation of a good gear diff.

Haven't toasted one since building this way- also built my bro's that way out of the box, and he's never lost a gear either.

I guess <><>< is similar to using the associated spring, but a little stiffer.

Just my 2¢...this is what's worked for me and just thought I'd share. ..."Your Mileage May Vary"

[neerg]

Originally posted by FastFreddy
during it's first teardown as though cap screw was tightened too much at the factory. Has this been a problem? How well does Losi work with customer's with probs like this?
Thanks!
i think i stripped half of the hex heads on that damn truck even with my hudy's tool set. i think they used ca or red loc tite on them lol!

[rc10tc3drivr]

well last night we had a new track layout and its for more of the faster cars i was doing very good but my reciever had some prob. we have power runing all the way through the wire but when we plug it in to the reciever i cant work any of the servos so would i need a new reciever or what any suggestions


also i have a mt-12 and i put in the assoc blue restrictor in and now its spitting alot of unburned fuel out the pipe do i just need to lean it out a little

[DR.GT]

rc10tc3drivr:

I would try another reciever in your truck to make sure that its your reciever and not anything else. As to the restrictor you might have to lean your engine a bit but it probably will depend from day to day and all the other variables regarding engine tuning.

goodluck...

:)

[banditwing]

I am going to go with the CV. It seems like a good engine, and my track is indoor's where you will not be able to exploit the full +1 HP of other engine.

I also took a look at the duratrax 1/10 scale universal starter. This appeals to me cause I already have batteries from my rustler.

Does the OFNA RTR box come with a glow ignitor??

Thanks

[DsWright]

Bandit, the 7.5V batteries from your rustler will need to be charged alot more than a 12V in the ofna RTr box,, and yes it does include a glow ignitor=)

[Sike]

thanx for the reply guys,
in the manual, it says the concave angle of the washer should be away from the center of the diff. However, in Nitro Mag, it says the angle should be towards the center. hmmmmm

btw, if you have the diff on your hand holding the diff gear, when you move one outdrive, does the other outdrive go the opposite direction? or does it suppose to lock together. Can you tell just by holding it or do you want to install in the truck and then adjust it from there?

Dswright, do you have to change the 4-40 mini locknut everytime you rebuild it? mine's not the RTR though. it's DE

XXXTacy, you used all twelve of them alternately? When you say "smooth" what do you mean? I heard that before but as long as the truck function like you want it to, isn't that "smooth"?

TIA

edit: P.S. Does it matter if the diff adjusting screw is on the left or right side of the truck?

[banditwing]

Originally posted by DsWright
Bandit, the 7.5V batteries from your rustler will need to be charged alot more than a 12V in the ofna RTr box, and yes it does include a glow ignitor=)

Sahweeet!! Then it's settled. Im getting the OFNA box. Thanks
:D

[DR.GT]

Sike:

I use all 12 washers and set them as RC Nitro mag says. I get about 2 good hrs of run time between rebuilds ( could go longer but I'm pretty fussy). Just make sure the diff is Tight and the slipper is loose (4.5 to 5 turns out from tight). I use lots AE lube on the diff and lots Ae black grease on the thrust assembly.

I have ran GT's for 6 years and finally took the plunge. My main concern was the losi diff but I believe 95% of the problems have been to poor mechanicing skills for the supposed losi diff problems. If built right this diff works great.

:)

[coolracer15]

What would be one of the best engines to get for the XXXNT

[FastEddy]

First race today with the XXXNT-DA
This truck rocks… Did a 4 min flat asphalt oval.
Standard Out of the box AD setup with the following exceptions:
Foam tires.
Blue springs and 55wt. oil.
Moved the shocks to lower the CG.
2 teeth up on the clutch bell pinion.

1st heat 1st place, 22.5 mph. 2 laps up on the 2nd place
2nd heat 1st place, 21 mph
A Main 3rd place, 23.8 mph.
I would have won the main but I was 2 laps late getting to the track O-Well.
The XXX dominated the race and it clearly was the truck. I don’t consider myself a good driver.

For the next race I will go to buggy shocks and play with the camber a bit, my foam tires look like party hats.

If you haven’t tried oval racing I would suggest giving it a try.

I would love any suggestions on setup and how to improve my lap time.

[Racin Rev]

I have a request for assistance. I know that many of you are running cv-r's in your xxxnt's, as am i. I set the low speed screw by the Ron Paris method (lean a warm engine until the idle speed stays consistant), but i did this when the temp was 10 to 15 degrees cooler. It runs well until something happens (like i flip, or go off the track) then it instantly dies. I am thinking that my problem is either:
1. idle speed too low
2. low speed screw going too lean
3. something that I havn't considered.

Any help would be appreciated.

BTW, what ever happened to Aaron or Jim?

[DsWright]

If it's dieng soon after you go off track, make sure you have a good amount of fuel tubing betwen your tank and your carb.

Remember the fuel pick up is in the bottom of the tank, so if you flip you only run until you have used up all the fuel in your fuel line. My tubig is long enough to run around the engine and attach on the tranny side, this buys me about 30 seconds of upside down tie under normal conditions.

Also alot of people make the mistake of setting idle to high to disguise a rich low end setting, i see this alot more than i used to... Best way to tell is when your car is idling, if your temp is dropping fast or it has a very gurgley sound at idle, or if your carb opening is wider than your manual suggests.

may not be your exact problem, but it's a couple things to look into.

[DsWright]

Forgot to mention, always seal your carbs, i have had 2 CV-R's and just now bought a 12 TR, every one of them developed an air leak in the carb, so grab yourself some oxygen sensor safe sealant and seal that up to make sure that can't affect your tuning or cause it to idle erratically. There are a couple good Rcnitro articles that explain sealing an engine, i believe one mainly covers replacing a worn piston/sleeve, but has good info on sealing the engine also, check the RCnitro website.

[adim_x]

hello all, do any of you know who makes metal differential gears for the xxxnt, or what are the part numbers, i thought hammad ghuman had them but i cant find them

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

adim_x -
9500 Losi XXX NT Hardened Aluminum Diff Gear $19.50

[adim_x]

is that a losi part, or hg part or whom, also can i get any of the other tranny gears in metal, i have looked all over and cant find them, i have a rtr losi, and stripped the plastic compound gear and diff gear, thanks for your help

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

oh sorry its made b