Team Losi XXXNT forum v3.0

[Sike]

wow... that was better than before. I tried XXXTacy's diff installation and mannn... it worked. what are they talking about smooth? I think that accelerate and corner pretty good, so I guess that is considered "smooth". I only had 5 min of testing though before it rained. But as far as those 5 minutes went. It's way better than before.

oh yea. and I'm testing it without having any brakes (parts lost the last time it ran)

[dkj-M3]

Brake kit part# A-9411
Thought I'd let you know since I'm about to order the parts for a spare transmission.

I ran my 1st working diff like this (((((()))))). The update wasn't in the rtrace manual. But it work fine for me, I ran about 2 gallons on it before a rebuild with the sports spring diff, it still ran fine, but I didn't want it going out in a race. I loaded it with the losi grease (more than the manual says), & it helped with slowing down before a turn, without runnig drag brakes. Now with the spring, it feels a little more loose not slipping just smoother, it doesn't slow as much as before, but I adjusted to it.

My $0.02

[Railman]

DKJ, Why would the diff assembly change the drag brake? It should only affect straight line acceleration, & turning (assuming it's not slipping).
Joe

[dkj-M3]

I have no idea, I was wondering if anyone had any input on that.
:D

[brknwheel]

I quit using the spring washers that Losi uses in the diff. I started to use the AE diff spring, just run it in till snug and back it out 1/8 turn. I spin it in my drill press while holding the gear for a while, then run the screw in snug and back it out 1/8 turn again, then assemble the tranny. I run the slipper nut way out so the slipper slps way before the diff even thinks about it, and I have no problems. The slipper nut shows about 1 1/2 treads sticking past the nut.

[DsWright]

XXXtasy and sike, when you run your diff like that does it tend to unload to one of the wheels when accelerating hard? I run on a lower grip slick track and found that tightening my diff actually helped me from getting squirrelly coming out of corners....

Am i wrong in assuming that running a diff a little loose(but not slipping) gives better cornering but not as straight acceleration?

[Railman]

Ds, I used to think the same thing, & with 0 degree tow in that would be the case. With big toe in, a tight diff will tend to make a truck waggle back & forth. I'm not shure if this is what happens, but I'll give it a try anyway. If your diff is too tight (partially locked), the rear tow in will cause the truck to pull on whichever wheel has the most bite. The problem is it starts a cycle of weight transfer from side to side. When this happens, it also steers the rear end one way and then the other. I've had this happen on my GT to the point where I couldn't open the throttle on a straight. It almost feels like the front wheels are binding up when this happens. Then one time a fellow racer picked up my truck & simplly told me that my diff was way too tight. So I loosened it up, & it was night & day different. That was many years ago, & I've not had a problem accelerating straight since...other than my poor driving!:rolleyes: I think the diff senses which wheel is driving & shifts the power to the opposite wheel, so as to detur the weight transfer form side to side, thus preventing the waggle cycle from starting.
When a diff goes bad, you'll notice it pushing more 1st, & if it gets real bad, it won't accelerate straight. Any way that's how I see it.
Joe

[DsWright]

Did you make it out to dirtcountry on the 7th Railman?

I had the purple and white truck that was all over the track=) I would get squirrely on the straights there, but it cornered ok. Maybe diff adjustment would help a little.

[tarvymoto]

Ds , diff adjustment will effect cornering( looser =more corner traction) ... while slipper clutch adjustments will effect straight line traction...too tight and you will be loose off the line AND coming out of the turn. Balance is key and you've herd the rule about adjusting the diff/slipper so that the slipper slips befor the diff. It's a bit confusing but just think about it and ask anymore Q's you have.

[Railman]

Yeh, Me & 2 of my boys were there. I don't get much of a chance to memorize who's driving what. At 50 years old, I can barely see
my own truck! Come to think of it, maybe you should tighten it down a turn or so. I need all the help I can get! :D Didn't you run stock truck too at the previous race? If so, you ran right behind my son. I didn't do as well this time as I did the last time. Maybe next time will work out better for us. At any rate we had a great time. See you later.
Joe

[dkj-M3]

Railman - That was probably me. I ran stock & gas truck. On my NT, before the 7th, I ran 5* toe in the rear, with my slipper as tight as it could be without making the diff slip. On the 7th I changed back to the stock 3* toe, & noticed a difference coming out of the corners, it was not too squirrely, but my rear would still get loose a little. Next time I'll try playing with my slipper to find that sweet spot.:eek:

[Crashbot2001]

Any of you guys coming down to SC for the Watermelon Classic 7 in Aiken? I don't know much about the series that are set up for RC racing, but it's a NORRCA Truck World Qualifying Race, whatever that is. Sounds pretty big to me. I'll be getting married that weekend, but I hope to run the track this weekend and see what it's like. I guess the NORRCA Truck World Championship will be held there in September. Just curious if anyone races there or had planned on attending.

Crash

[losifreak2004]

Wow I missed a lot!

Crashbot - You're absolutely correct! The NORRCA Gas Nationals were also a qualifier, as is the NORRCA Electric Nationals.

The diff this is as simple as it sounds. Losi hasn't done away with the washers because they are cheaper to produce. To check the diff after building it, hold the outdrives with allen wrenches and try to turn the gear. If you can turn the gear AT ALL, the diff is too loose. Tighten it until you can't turn the gear. Then check the diff every race night to make sure it still won't slip. Do this, and it'll last a LONG time.

If you are absolutely paranoid about the washers, the RTR diff spring works great. Just use one washer on the adjuster side of the spring, as well as the washer on the thrust side of the diff. The washer on the adjuster side should be like this <////

A loose diff will make the truck turn easier, but bleed straightline acceleration when one tire unloads. A tighter diff will make the truck harder to turn without sliding, but will not bleed as much power when one tire unloads under acceleration.

This just in: at the recent 2002 NORRCA Gas Nationals in Hemet, CA I finished 4th in the B for 12th overall with my new Drake Edition XXX-NT....good things are in the short future

Any other questions? Leave them here or on the forums at www.teamurc.com (which will get first priority HAHA) and I'll get to them before I leave for the Hot Rod Shootout!

Aaron

[fly boygt]

I have been reading the past couple of pages of the forum and i have heard about the diff. problems people are having, i am looking at buying the drake kit and was wondering if i did the switch and put the diff. spring from the gt. in it would this have the same adjustment as the gt. and fix the problem, or what is the best way to build the diff the normal way? thanks in advance
:)

[losifreak2004]

It is possible to use the diff spring from the GT, in the manner I stated in the post above.

With the washers, you must have the diff tightened to a certain point or tighter, or the diff will be absolutely too loose. The spring allows slightly more room for error.

Aaron

[Sike]

HE'S ALIVE!!!! :D
Welcome Back Aaron

[losifreak2004]

Just like Elvis...I was never dead, I just went home....LOL

Seriously...I took a week away from my computer for the NORRCA Nationals, spent the next week with my girlfriend, the following week I was at Boy Scout Camp, and any other free time has either been spent with Lindsay or RC (Panther stuff mainly, as well as working out a possible deal with a BIG company), so I haven't had much time on my computer.

I will be on here as much as I can until I leave this upcoming Tuesday morning for the Hot Rod Shootout!

Aaron

[jdm3849]

Ok, I am going to be getting a losi XXX-NT sport soon,i want to know what spares i should have because in a month i am going to my grandmas in wyoming for 2 weeks, there are like no LHS's there. So i want to know what spares i should have so it can last 2 weeks of running on dirt and gravel. Remember im new to nitro.
If the truck breaks down i will have absolutely nothing to do and will be bored beyond beleif. I am thinking glow plugs and maybe a set of front a-arms?

[jdm3849]

I was just browsing and i found this, http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/newprod/losparts.htm#XXXBump i bet that will protect the front end good? I dont really car about looks cause im going to be bashing only, i dont think it'll look that bad because i had a stampede that looked sweet with a wide bumper on it similar to that,it looked alot worse with out it and i could bounce off curbs with it on.

[Sike]

diff gear should be the first on your list :)
I just broke another part today. the rear right arm. I heard the arms is most likely to bbreak. I'm gonna buy both front and rear tomorrow

[jdm3849]

Are you driving on rough terrain? What are you driving on? Cause im going to be on flat ground pretty much but turning alot and on gravel,so i dont think i will have a prob with reaer a-arms? If i get that bumper i think all my front pieces should stay intact. If i adjust the diff. after a few runs i think i should be fine,cause i did on my first rc: evader and never had a prob like all the other people, and if i am so desperate to run the truck and it has a messed up diff i could just jb weld it :D

[cabbynate]

Hey Aaron,http://www.plauder-smilies.de/wavey.gif
What do ya think will be the hot setup on tires this weekend at Hemet?

[rc10tc3drivr]

has anyone tried the trinity rear end conversion if so was it any better

what would be the best front tire to get a lot of grip the track is new and its starting to get packed in though

does anyone know the part # for the front pivot block thats blue aluminum like the rear pivot block

[KEVIN-RTR]

hey guys ... i just got my xxx-nt rtr today ... i'm ready to go!! ... i have a couple quick questions ... do i need to locktight any screws or anything before i start? ... i've been reading and reading all the posts, most is over my head, hopefully not for long ... what can you suggest that i need to equipt myself with all tools, parts, batteries, igniters, and jeez, everything to make sure i'm good to go ... thanks for the help ... and by the way ... i'm freakin out about setting and adjusting my diff from what i'm reading here!!

thanks again

[dkj-M3]

TTK5009 Trinity Team Kinwald, XXX/XXXT Front PIVOT BLOCK, blue aluminum

[Sike]

not too sure about jb weld the diff (check my attached image on the previous page) :)

[losifreak2004]

jdm - Glowplugs (McCoy MC59's), a few front and rear arms, a rear shock tower or two, and some one degree rear hubs. The front bumper won't really protect much, because it won't reach out all the way to the tires. It is impact on the tires that has the leverage to break parts. As long as you keep the diff tight, you won't have any problems.

JB weld the diff and your truck won't turn!

Cabbynate - Panther Med-Soft Step pins! And Losi Red Directionals

tc3drivr - The CRE conversion will only help on smooth slick tracks. It will upset your car or truck MUCH more through rough sections of the track. It keeps the rear end flatter through turns, which is the key to sidebite on a slick track.

The front pivot block is Trinity Part # TK5009...like dkj said.

Kevin - Take all the screws out that thread into metal and loctite them just to be safe. Look at the above post to jdm on what you need for spare parts. A good igniter like the Dynamite or Ofna units will work great.

I recommend the Trinity Nitro Metal Hydride reciever pack, and Sanyo AA's for your radio. You can pick up a good set of tools from plenty of different companies. I prefer MIP/Thorp, but Trinity, Hudy, and others make great allen wrenches.

To check the diff (since your truck is already assembled) lock the slipper clutch down. Hold the right rear tire and the spur gear in one hand, and try to turn the left wheel. If you can turn it AT ALL, then you need to tighten the diff. Do this by placing a 1/16th" allen wrench (any size will work, really) through the slot in the outdrive when it is lined up with the slot on the diff screw (not sure what side this is on on the Sport kit...probably the left side) and turn the right rear tire about 1/8th of a turn. Do this until you can't turn the tire when checking the diff.

After that, loosen the slipper five turns, and check the diff again. It should be possible to turn the left rear tire now, but make sure the slipper shaft is turning. If so, you're set! Check this adjustment every two minutes for the first ten or so, then every couple of runs!

Did I get everything?
Aaron

[Bobbyorr40]

how do you know if the gear differtial in the xxx-nt has ****** up and what should i do.

[KEVIN-RTR]

THANKS for the info ... hey i read that some run a couple tanks at idle for break-in before they start running ... is this a good idea?

good stuff guys!

[Alex-XXXNT]

does Diff Gear = Spur Gear?

[KEVIN-RTR]

you said McCoy MC59 glow plug ... is that for a .12 ... i have the RTR with the .15 ... different plug or the same?

thanks again

[INFERN06]

Originally posted by Alex-XXXNT
does Diff Gear = Spur Gear?
nope diff gear inside of tranny with balls in it and spur gear outside of tranny with slipper plates either side of it and runs directly from pinion.

[INFERN06]

Originally posted by KEVIN-RTR
THANKS for the info ... hey i read that some run a couple tanks at idle for break-in before they start running ... is this a good idea?

good stuff guys!
It is a good idea when breaking in the engine to run at least two tanks at idle before starting to apply any power to the engine but it is also important for the engine to break in warm.By warm I figure at least over 180 deg.If you break it in while it is too cold your break in may take much longer than needed and some people say it is best to run the engine in near operating temps to allow for proper metal expansion to occur for optimum performance during racing use.
P.S.The MC 59 is a good plug for almost all applications where 15% -20% nitro is used25% could also be used with it but I would suggest a colder plug beyond that Like an MC8.

[INFERN06]

Originally posted by rc10tc3drivr
has anyone tried the trinity rear end conversion if so was it any better

what would be the best front tire to get a lot of grip the track is new and its starting to get packed in though

does anyone know the part # for the front pivot block thats blue aluminum like the rear pivot block
I currently run the rear block conversion On my XXX-NT and while I did loose a tiny bit of rear bite from the 1 degree blocks I found it was comparable to the stock blocks with a bit more width and strength.I have considered milling the pin hole of the block from the inside to allow the toe angle to be changed with use of plastic inserts that are off set to one side.I would then be able to tune the blocks with little or no chance of wear to the aluminum blocks.

[cabbynate]

Inferno6.
Are you talking about the Trinity rear block or the Trinity rear hubs and short CVD's set?:confused:

[cabbynate]

Losifreak,
Thanks. I have the Panthers and silver and gold directional so I may have to go get a pair of reds too. I think I will start out with some new pro-line steps and use the new Panthers for the mains(hopefully main). I also have some new Ifmar studs red glued and balanced if the truck is pushing to much with the steps.;)

[Railman]

Inferno is right about the warm/hot break in, but the reason for it is a little different. If you break it in cold, it will actually break in much faster, & if you run it cold for too long, you can actually wear it out prematurely. The reason for this is that at cold temps, the cylinder won't expand to it's normal full bore size, & the piston will scrub off too much metal during break in. This is because the clyinder bore actually grows at a faster rate than the piston does as it is heated. You don't want to over heat, but 180 to 220 should be about right for most engines. Also heat cycling is very important. You need to bring it up to operating temp, & then let it cool most of the way down. I personally don't like to let it cool down all the way, because the piston fit is too tight at a cold start up. After it's broken in, it's not as big of a deal, but during break in, you can lose more metal starting it cold. I like to restart at about 120' or so for this reason. I'd run it for about 4 minutes (1/2 tank or so) at a time, & then let it cool down, refill tank, & repeat. As you run tanks through, you can start to blip the throttle a little now & then. Do not over rev though. After about 3 tanks on the bench, start to run (drive) the car slowly, blipping the throttle, without running it at high rpms. After each tank you can start to lean it just a tad ( 1 hr or so) if necesary to keep it in the right temp range, & progressivly run it a little harder till you reach about 8 tanks. By then you should be pretty close to a full break in, but i'd still hold back a bit for a few more tanks. How much you lean it depends on how hot it runs. It's also very important to put the piston at the bottom of it's stroke when you shut your engine down. If left at the top, the piston can be squeeze by the contracting sleeve, resulting in lost wear of the pist/slv fit.
I think that's pretty close, but I may have forgot something. :rolleyes: ;)
Joe

[coolracer15]

I seem to have a problem, my rear tires spin the same way but when I hold my spur gear they spin the opposite way. My diff is tight as possible and my spur gear is set according to the factory setup. Could you guys help me out? Thanks.



One Love

[cabbynate]

coolracer,
They should spin in the opposite direction when you hold the spur gear.;)

[Railman]

Coolracer, That's what it should do! That's what a diff does. It's how it transfers the power to the wheel with the least resistance. Be carefull not to over tighten it though, because it might either strip the diff nut, or at least wear prematurely.
Joe

[INFERN06]

Originally posted by coolracer15
I seem to have a problem, my rear tires spin the same way but when I hold my spur gear they spin the opposite way. My diff is tight as possible and my spur gear is set according to the factory setup. Could you guys help me out? Thanks.



One Love
It sounds like you have a diff in there.j/k It should be doing that and having the diff tight just means there is a little more resistance to the other wheel turning at a different rate than the one you are turning or slowing the action.A looser diff means each wheel will move more freely than the other by less resistance or load from the diff seting.

[INFERN06]

Originally posted by cabbynate
Inferno6.
Are you talking about the Trinity rear block or the Trinity rear hubs and short CVD's set?:confused: Actually cabbynate I am referring to the rear hub carriers but I have both on my truck as I find the rear arm mount (pivot block) is a bit on the weak side for one of the tracks I have run at.Snapped one of them clean after landing 15' of air in a big air contest.I figure why just replace when you can upgrade to something stronger.
I would mill out the inside of the hub carriers and make pieces to insert inside that would act as bushing and toe setting.

[coolracer15]

Ok Thanks everybody


One Love

[purplerides]

Kevin rtr - pretty much sounds as railman has got you covered on break in , but you can ask 100 more people and get 200 more ways to do it , railmans looks good to me , i don't think we can stress enough to check the diff. , i was at the hobbyshop the other day and a guy bought one so i gave him some pointers and showed him how to check the diff. his was loose fresh out of the box and you must keep a close eye on it especially the first dozen or so runs until it's broken in good , losi freak touched on how to check it but the diff is installed opposite then he assumed , the diff screw is in the right outdrive , i normally hold the right wheel and spur gear and try to turn the left wheel backwards to see if it slips (by turning the left wheel backwards if the diff nut does turn a little it would tighten some) , if it does slip , line slot in diff.screw head with slot in outrive slide small allen wrench or blade of small screwdriver into screw head , while holding the screwhead still turn left rear tire backwards , Note: only turn tire a little at a time and then recheck , the diff nut is made of alum. , by turning wheel you have a lot of leverage and can strip the nut. , the recheck often especially during break in.

[jdm3849]

LosiFreak-If you jb weld the diff. it will just give the car posi-traction. Ive locked up a diff. before and it dosnt handle turns as well but it gets over rough stuff faster,does the X-NT sport come with a throttle return spring?

[King]

I just got me a XXXNT and it has graphite a-arms f/r shock towers f/r and titaninum linkage. What else should I get. Oh it also has the aluminum rear a-arm mount. :D :D

[INFERN06]

Originally posted by King
I just got me a XXXNT and it has graphite a-arms f/r shock towers f/r and titaninum linkage. What else should I get. Oh it also has the aluminum rear a-arm mount. :D :D
Titanium brake hub and aluminum brake pivot blocks would be good.

[cabbynate]

INFERNO6,
Cool. I had a felling you had both. I was just wondering about the shims but I see what you mean now. Sounds cool.:cool:

[losifreak2004]

Bobby Orr - The diff will feel gritty when you hold the spur gear and spin one tire. Time for a rebuild.

Kevin - My thoughts:

To break in an engine, you must get the engine up to operating temperatures (180+ degrees) quickly. Use a hair dryer to heat up the engine, and then start it, and tune the truck to idle around 180-190 degrees. You may have to blip the throttle to keep it running, and that is OK. Keep the engine running for about five minutes, then shut it down and let it cool COMPLETELY. Repeat this about five times. Then run the truck up and down the street at varying amounts of throttle, keeping the engine temperature around the same area. Do this for five minutes or so between engine tuning changes (unless it is necessary to keep the engine running). After four or five passes through this cycle, lean the engine out and run it hard!

To break in a diff, apply very little throttle while holding one rear tire, then the other, going back and forth for about 10 seconds at a time for three times each side. Check the diff, and run it for a minute or two. Check it again, and you'll be set.

MC 59's work best in .12 and .15 engines...

coolracer - Both tires turn the same way when you don't hold the spur gear because it is just turning the clutch bell, and the diff isn't under pressure to work....

purplerides - Ha! I got the left side idea out of an electric kit manual...that's how I have the diff in ALL of my cars :-/

jdm - Posi-traction would be with a one way bearing...it's as though you have a solid axle when you JB weld the diff.

Not sure if the Sport comes with a return spring, but all the other Losi gas trucks do...

King - The stock brake parts are fine. I'd spend my money on an aluminum front pivot block and some 1 degree rear hubs (Part Number LOS A-9806)

cabbynate - Silvers and Golds might be too much steering if the track is wet, and not enough if it is dry. The Pro-Line Step-Pins are gonna be a little loose! We'll see what we can do about getting you some tires that actually work...:-p

Until tomorrow!
Aaron

[DR.GT]

Aaron:

Not to rag on you but you forgot 1 very important thing to say . Always put the piston down at the bottom (BDC) of its stroke after you stop your engine during the breakin steps for cooling it off and also anytime after you run it. It helps keep the pinch tight longer.

:)

[KEVIN-RTR]

THANKS GUYS ... the help is great ... and needed ... i raced motocross is my younger days and it sound typical of any 2 stroke break in ... i used to heat it up and cool it down over and over gradually getting hotter till it was time to get on it ... sounds like all good advice ... this is the best messege board i've seen ... one question ... how do i tell where the piston is in the cycle ... top vs bottom?

[dkj-M3]

Turn the flywheel, when it's loose, it's at the bottom. When it becomes hard to turn it's at or close to the top.

[KEVIN-RTR]

right on ... i'm good to go ... by sunday i'll be tearing it up .. charge batteries, charge!

[jdm3849]

Originally posted by losifreak2004


jdm - Posi-traction would be with a one way bearing...it's as though you have a solid axle when you JB weld the diff.




Solid axle vehicles have differentials in them,my point was you still will be able to turn. I found out that it does come with a throttle return spring.

[losifreak2004]

DR GT. - You're right. I didn't include it because other people already had....sorry about the confusion.

jdm - That's opposite of what a solid axle car really is. They DO NOT have a differential.

Aaron

[jdm3849]

oh,my bad i was thinking of a straight-axled car. What color body should i get for my Sport? grape,aqua,or graphite? This will be my first nitro,do you think it will be easy for me to tune it? i have some nitro mags that tell you how to do it right.

[rc10tc3drivr]

i would like to announce that the xxx-nt wooped up on a bunch of 1/8 scale buggies and .21 tmaxx today in the open class

i put them in thier place

[Alex-XXXNT]

OK guys........

-I have reset my gearmesh since my Spur Gear was wearing unevenly.
-I also tightend up my diff.

Now, because of this, my car doesnt roll as easily. The tires are pretty tight when I try to spin them. This doesnt seem right to me. The car is supposed to be able to coast pretty easily, right?

I tried loosing the mesh a little, but that didnt work. Is this tightness caused from me tightening my diff? If so, do I need to loosen it up a little? If so, how do I loosen it?

Thanks.

[jdm3849]

If its harder to spin one wheel at a time its your diff,just do the opposite of what you did to tighten it. Tighten the diff. all the way and then back out about 1/8 of a turn.

[purplerides]

Alex - it sounds to me as if the gear mesh is to tight if the truck ain't rolling like before , btw double check that the brake isn't engaged before you go through the trouble of adjusting the mesh.

[Alex-XXXNT]

Purplerides-

I found out my problem. It seems as though my brake is barely engaged, keeping the car from rolling smoothly. How do I adjust the brake tension? Sorry for all the question, but Im very new to this hobby :(

[Alex-XXXNT]

Purplerides- ......continued......

I found that the problem was that I had my throttle trim set to -10. This was giving me a little too much brake. The reason I had it set like this was to keep the engine at a slow idle. If I bump it up to 0 trim, I idles very high. I try to compinsate by setting the idle screw lower, but this ends up causing my engine to shut off when braking (the carb hole is to small). Its a catch 22, and I cant find a consensus. Ugh!

[DsWright]

Alex, alot of people have thier idle set to high and it disguises an overly rich low end, give that a shot=)

[Alex-XXXNT]

Dswright-

Like i said before....
"I try to compinsate by setting the idle screw lower, but this ends up causing my engine to shut off when braking (the carb hole is to small)."

So, I think I have my idle set right. If I lower it anymore, then my engine cuts off when braking.

[DsWright]

I think i should have been more clear in what i meant=)

If your low end needle is to rich, you may not know it if your idle speed is high as the higher rpm burns off more fuel. See if your low end needle on your carb is set to rich, that may be causeing it to stall, when you apply brake it drowns the glow plug.

If your carb settings aren't correct getting an acceptable idle is a pain.


I would first set your carb needle so it has the recommened opening in the owners manual, then check how your engine is tuned, as that may be your problem.

On the other hand, if your low end is to lean, it could cause it to idle higher than it should at a given carb setting.

You have to find a balance between engine tuning and carb opening, to allow best performance and no flameouts from an improper setting.

Give it a shot=)

[Racin Rev]

Alex,
when all else fails read the instructions. I am sure that the rtr's come with complete instructions from Losi. Read the part that talks about setting up the throttle/brake linkage. You should never adjust the idle speed with your radio (the exception is the idle up function on some radios). Your brake should not be engaging at idle either. (unless you are running drag brake which is an advanced concept.) At the neutral position on the radio the brake should be off and the throttle should be off.

If your engine is dieing at idle forcing you to use the radio to set it up then you have an engine tuning problem. it could be any combination of too rich an idle mixture adjustment or too low an idle speed adjustment. if stepping up the idle with the radio worked, then i would suggest adjusting the idle speed adjusting screw until you reach the point where it doesn't die. (consult your motor manual for which screw is which, or consult an expert.) Don't go messing until you are sure which is which. If you are going to a track to race then look for the guys who have been in the sport for a while and ask for their help when they aren't busy.

see how this works and report back. notice this also. run your motor until it is fully warmed up, drive it up to yourself and let it idle. does the idle speed drop perceptibly after a few seconds? if so how long until it drops?

[Scrad]

Alex- If your putting the brakes on and the carb hole gets smaller you need to adjust the radio trim like you have. Move it so it gives you more brakes. The servo will move to the right. You also need to adjust the spring on the throttle linkage so that whenever your putting the brakes on the spring takes up the slack. You make have to also set the trim a little off center also. I was having the same problem you had, you just need to mess with the linkages and the trims on the radio till you can give it full throttle and full brakes and not close the carb hole. You may have adjust the idle to so that it won't close when you give it brakes.

[jdm3849]

I would like to know if the Sports instructions clearly tell you how to break the engine in. Is there an air filter that i could get that can increase performance at a small price? How much mph more would i get if i went one tooth up on the clutch? approx.

[Alex-XXXNT]

Thanks for all the tips guys.

I went out today and spent about 2 hours tweaking and tweaking some more. I think I finally got it like I want it. I think my problem was miscommunication a while back. I was told by some guy to adjust my idle so the tires would not spin. So, I was basing all my setting around this fact. I ended up ditching that idea and got my car to idle so it just would not try to creep. The tires will spin when lifted off the ground, but I found out taday that this is normal.

I ended up setting all my settings back to default and adjusting from there.
- I first set my idle screw so that it would leave a sufficient hole in the carb when the brake was applied.
- Then I set the low end to one ture out, and the high end 2.5 turns out. I tweaked the low end until I got a good acceleration, then proceeded to tweak the top end till it was good.

I think my final settings were something like....top end 2 1/4 turns out, low end 1 1/8 turn out. But Im sure it will be different tomorrow though :) Im finding these nitro bastages are tricky.

Thanks again for all the help guys. Im sure Ill find some more questions to ask soon :P

[Alex-XXXNT]

Actually, I already have a couple of questions :P
You didnt think I would let you guys off that easy, did you?

Anyways, I went to the LHS today and bought a fuel filter and 3 feet of fuel line. Can someone post some pictures of how you have your fuel line run. I want to add some length to keep the engine running when it flips over. Also, Im not sure where to put the fuel filter at, since there are twe lines.
1) from the engine to the fuel tank
2)from the fuel tank to the exhaust

*my educated guess would be #1, but Ive assumed easier things and been wrong.....

Questions:
-how long should I cut the fuel line.
-where do I run it.
-whats the best way to secure it.
-where do i put the fuel filter.
-where are my damn keys.
-please post pics with instructions if possible.

Thanks guys!!......and gals?

[andy51289]

alex- 1. as short as possible. 2. I ususally run mine around the head to preheat the fuel before it reaches the fuel nipple. 3. Zipties or more fuel line 4. the tank comes with a filter in it. 5. how about getting you head out of your butt and looking for them...LOL just kidding 6. sorry to lazy to post pics.

[Racin Rev]

andy i have to disagree. I run about 6-8 inches of fuel line coiled up and tied with a zip tie. The same holds true for the pressure line from the expansion chamber (it isn't neccessary to do this with the type of tank on the losi as once the pressure is in it it's in but i do it to keep fuel from escaping into the pipe while off throttle or during a flip [the pressure also tries to push out the fuel].) I run an in line filter for insurance sake. It has a piece of filter paper from a coffee filter punched out with a hole punch and set against the screen. It will pick up stuff that the screen and tank filter won't. It should be changed often to avoid blockages. I have the filter as close to the tank as possible. If you try the filter paper trick be sure that the paper is upstream of the screen or you will suck the paper down your carb. :eek:

btw alex, i agree with the guy who told you that the wheels should not spin, but at your level of experience you gotta do what works for you. after you gain some experience in tuning you should be able to adjust this out. :)

[Got Speed]

Soon I hope to get a XXXN-T after selling my GT. I really want the Adam Drake Edition but I can't afford it. So I either want the kit or the ARR sport. What are the differences? I am into racing so I don't want just a RTR, prebuilt or the most inexpensive but I can't afford too much. Also does the sport come in a kit version?

Thanks

[purplerides]

i'm with andy on this one , i've been running losi's since the GTX (ditched the AE) and they still use the same tank , i have never had a fuel filter related problem and that's afters many many hours/gals. through it the in tank filter works just fine , i also try to prevent putting any loops in the supply line from tank to carb. , i've seen air bubbles collect in loop in line and cause a lean condition , now on the pressure line i run it rather long 12+ inches , that helps maintain consistant pressure at all tank levels , and prevents fuel from coming from tank and going out stinger when you come from full throttle section to brakes , the motor is no longer suppling the tank with high press. and it's going to vent through the path of least resistance , it can't force any more press. pass the needles in the carb. so it going to go out the press. line toward the pipe.

now if your motor is stalling right away when you flip over , your bottom end is too lean , you'd be supprised they actually run pretty long upside down , well not long but plenty long enough to get to it and flip it up right , i've have even come off the drivers stand during practice when no one was around to marshal it and got to it before it flamed out.

also the wheels spinning at idle when rear tires are off the ground isn't that abnormal , especially if your running with no drag brake , but they still shouldn't be spinning real fast , with the losi clutch it should be easy to adjust idle so it don't creep at all , some times when clutch is new it may slightly drag on the clutch bell and will wear in soon.

[purplerides]

got speed - the xxxnt comes in the regular kit with bearings , the Drake kit , and the RTRsport , they used to have a rtr that came with a picco but i think that was a limited edition , and is no longer avail. but i could be wrong , that was basically the regular kit built by the team drivers which i think the drivers have better things to do the build kits all the time...LOL , for most the standard kit is fine , the drake kit is nice and has some nice goodies on it , but doesn't work for me i'm not a big fan of graphite , all the graphite stuff i've tried seemed to break easier , it is very rigid , and noticed many of the racers i race with perfer the regular material , also on my home track the 1 degree rear hubs don't work and have to be changed to 0 degree , but htey do work on most other tracks , the drake does come with alum. brake clips and titanium tie rods and some others goodies that would justify the extra price though because they would have to upgraded almost right away anyways so your not really saving money by buying the standard kit , the RTRsport is ok to get started but check your local track on rules , most will let RTR's race there .15's motors , but if you plan to race at any Roar sactioned race (states , regional national, etc.) the .15 motor is illegal , even many high end and legal .12's would leave it in it's dust.

[losifreak2004]

Alex - Glad to see you got the idle thing figured out. As long as the car doesn't creep forward when the brakes aren't applied, then you're OK. My tires would spin if I didn't have PLENTY of drag brake dialed in.

As for those questions:
1. The pressure line should be 14 inches long. The fuel inlet line doesn't need to be longer than enough to reach the carb.

It does not matter if you are upside down. The pressure in the tank, plus the vacuum created by the combustion chamber when the piston is on its way down is more than enough to suck fuel into the carb.

2. The pressure line should be wrapped around the chassis brace (the space right in front of the tank and behind the servo) to keep it out of the way. The fuel inlet line should be as far from the engine and gears as possible (although most people just end up wrapping it around the head anyway...)

3. The lines should stay put on most fittings, but you may want to add a drop of sealant.

4. If you want to run another fuel filter (there is one in the tank, and I personally think another filter is a waste) then it needs to be anywhere between the tank and the carb. Many people make a loop with zip ties around the manifold coupler, to guide the fuel line around the head. This is an often-used place for mounting the fuel filter.

Other than that, you're on your own...LOL, I don't have any pictures of my truck, sorry.

got speed - The DE kit is definitely the one to get. I was like purplerides and never really ran all graphite, but I've learned to like it much better. And until the temperature gets cold, it is harder to break when tumbling and landing jumps wrong. You really need to hit something to break graphite on a warm day. For the parts that come with it, I'd save up and get this truck.

As purplerides stated, the RTR truck with the Picco is no longer being produced. The new truck has softer plastic, a .15 engine, and a JR XR2, which is not a bad radio. If you don't want to build, this is perfect. (I always recommend building the car yourself, so you will know how to fix it when you break it).

jdm - No harm, no foul.

There is instructions on break in just a page or two before this. Going to a smaller clutch bell will actually make the truck faster, because it will allow it to rev higher. A 19 or 20 tooth clutch bell would only get you up to speed if you had a VERY long area to run it, and holding your throttle wide open for that long is harmful to the engine.

You won't tell the difference by switching air filters.

rc10tc3drivr - Good job!

DsWright - I'm impressed!

Scrad - That's what I was thinking also...

andy - It is an advantage to keep fuel as cold as possible until it actually gets into the engine. Hence racers putting their fuel into a cooler....

Anything else?

Aaron

[Lowrance]

What are the receiver batteries of choice for a XXX-NT.Just bought the sport RTR version to try out this nitro stuff and was wondering on what size of battery cells that would fit inside the factory battery box on the truck.Thinking of a 5 cell pack for increased power to the servos.
Thanks

[cabbynate]

Hey Aaron.
Wass up???? How did your race go? I was in the B-main in scond place and with 40 seconds left to go someone turned on their raido and I had no control over my truck.:( No A-main for me.
Hope things went better for you.:)
C-YA!!!!
Nate

[King]

Get the trinity xxx-nt reciver pack. You can't go wrong with it.:D :D

[King]

I had that happen to me Friday and I almost lost my truck. But luckly some one caught it and killed the engine before and harm was done. Then it happened yesterday and I broke a front a-arm and a rear hub carrier in one shot. All this with regionals going on and people still act like dumb asses and turn their radios on in the pits to adjust something. I'm glad they started the radio impound. Now I just need to work on getting foward bite . :D :D :cool:

[cabbynate]

King,
I wish they would impound radios where I race.
As for more forward bite, you could go with less anti-squat and 1dg rear hubs. Softer rear springs and or lighter shock oil will help also. Maybe you could also run silver front tires if you don't already. Sometimes people can mistake to much steering for lack of rear traction.

[bullett1818]

I agree with Aaron on not running the fuel line near the head. Actually I would run it as far from anything hot as possible. Mainly because U dont want to "pre heat" ur fuel. You actually want your fuel to be cool because if its cooler it combusts better. better combustion=more power morepower=better speed. Thats why they make fuel coolers for real vehicles. Just my 2 Cents.

-BULLETT-

[losifreak2004]

bullett - Exactly. Trinity makes nitro coolers also...

King - As cabbynate said, the biggest difference in forward bite you could possibly make would be the 1 deg. rear hubs. Part # LOS A-9806

Lowrance - Orion also makes a 1100 MaH Ni-MH reciever pack, and if I'm not mistaken, it's cheaper than the Trinity pack.

cabbynate - Dude, that sucks! Normally the people are pretty good about that stuff. I wish I had the printout to see who it was.

As far as my race, I had an AWESOME start. Mike Kendall, Adam and I all broke away and were nearly 15 seconds in the lead. Then a lapper took me out in the hole right in front of the driver stand, and the kid was standing on the hay bale. So not only did he have to get down off of it, he had to wait for traffic to go by, and in that time I was in 9th place and 5 seconds from being lapped.

At the end of the race there were only five people left. Adam was LONG gone, Mike had broke, and Andy Smolnick had moved into second, me and Gerrardo Gonzales were battling it out for third, and my dad was running fifth. Mike Kendall and another driver re-joined the race just as I pitted for the last time, and right away one of them hit me going off the lip before the big hole. With two laps left I was about a half lap behind third place, and started driving too hard, and broke a rear ball cup on the last lap jumping at an angle off of the drop-down double.

With a seventh and a fourth place finish though, it moved me up to third in the points race, but Andy and Adam have CHECKED OUT. I have to wait until they leave for Missouri to capitalize....

Aaron

[cabbynate]

Aaron,
Sorry to hear about your mishaps. On the flip side though, I got to run my Panther med-soft steps and they rocked!!! I think I my send them a Resume of my race wins and see what they can do for me!!! :) I just have to go look at my trophys and see what I've won and where. Wish me luck.
Nate

[Racin Rev]

Does anyone know what the order is of softness for Losi tires? I can't make heads nor tails of their own descriptions. All of their tire descriptions seem to sound like: "this is a nice tire that lasts a long time and is soft giving lots of grip. you really should buy it." lol.

[rc10tc3drivr]

what kind of things do you need to put on resumes to send to companys

[cabbynate]

Racin Rev,
Reds are soft. Pinks are med-soft. Silvers are med-hard and Golds are HARD!!! ;)

Nate

[cabbynate]

rc10tc3drivr,
Aaron will have to help you out on that. I don't want to give you bad advise that may mess up your chance.

[coolracer15]

I DID IT!! I got my engine to start and even better got my truck to run just as good as the day I got it, I thought I would just tell you guys this.


One Love

[Alex-XXXNT]

OK.....
I've got a crazy hair up my ass, and now I want to rebuild my differential. I took a look at the "exploded view in my manual, and it looks pretty easy. First off, my diffential is tightend down.......but still.....

-My wheels no longer spin opposite directions when a manually turn the right wheel. If I turn the left wheel it will, but rarely.
-It feels kind of gritty when I turn the wheel.
-when my car idles, (and I pick the wheels off the grougnd) I can see the wheels wanting to spin, but they seem to not "grip". They will eventually catch and start to spin regularly.

Other than that, my truck runs great. It accelerates good and doesnt seem to slip at start. Are my reasons justification for rebuilding the differential? Or a symptom of something else?

From what Ive read elsewhere it seems that I need to do the dirty deed. What do you guys think? If the diagnosis is "rebuild", please give me a few warniing tips before I dive into it.

**NOTE: BTW, I got my fuel filter installed and new fuel line ran. I dont know if the filter will do anything, but it sure looks snazzy! :) Thanks for all the tips on that.

[cabbynate]

Alex:
Hold your spur gear and turn one wheel. The other should go in the opposite direction.
Nate

[Alex-XXXNT]

Nate-
Yep, that works, but it makes a weird noise.

[cabbynate]

Alex:
Time for a rebuild.:( Don't sweat it though, it's not that hard.
Just use Associated Black grease in the thrust bearings. The Losi white is thin and wears away fast. I also use Associated Stealth Diff lub in my diff gear bearings. I just like it more than the Losi stuff.:)
Nate

[Lowrance]

losifreak:
I seen the battery packs from Orion and Trinity but was wanting to build my own pack.I can buy 1000mah Ni-MH 2/3 A cells for 2 bucks each but not sure if they would fit in the factory box.

Question on the throttle linkage:
When applying the brakes it seems as though the arm on the carb is under alot of stress as I can see it flexing.The spring is working but seems to stiff.I haven't driven the truck yet in this condition as I'm still breaking the engine in...just something I seen while checking out the radio install as from the box.Any thoughts on this?
Thanks
Garry

[losifreak2004]

Alex - It definitely sounds like your diff needs a rebuild. Take it apart and replace anything damaged/worn, and the thrust bearing (good idea to replace it anyway). Then lube it back up and put it back in!

If both tires spin the same way when you hold the spur gear, your diff is too tight. If the other one doesn't move, then it might have a broken screw or a stripped nut.

The tires may not 'grab' at idle because the clutch doesn't fully engage at such a low RPM, and that's just fine.

coolracer - Glad to know you got it running!

cabbynate - I'm glad you liked the tires!

Bubba is on a 50% deal with Panther, you should have good luck finding a team level with them. I also believe Kazz is in consideration, so get that resume in! HAHA

I think I'm the only person in the world that would complain about a 4th place finish.....

rc10tc3drivr - A general list of information about yourself, such as ROAR region, home tracks, equipment you use, why you want to be sponsored, etc. If you are still in school, your GPA and even a copy of your transcript or last report card will help (unless it isn't all that great, but most companies want one).

Include your race finishes and what events you have attended/will attend next year. Most bigger companies will not even look at your resume if you haven't finished in the top 20 at a National or Regional event.

Racin Rev and cabbynate - I do believe Red is softer than Pink....I'll ask Adam if he ever turns his computer on tonight :p

Is that it? You guys got me for one more day! Then it's six days on your own HAHA

Aaron

[lositeamdriver]

aaron hey that sucked at hemet what happened and after i bumped oh well got screw! you like those falling during turn marshalling skills....!!:D :eek: i wish i would have order more tires oh well time to order agin!

[Got Speed]

Ive got just a few more questions.

Are the plastic parts that come with the Sport junk?

I really prefer to build my own kit but I wanted an engine so is there any ARR kit Sport?

Is there any standard XXXN-T that comes with an engine. If so which one?

The sport does have bearings dosn't it?

Is there anything about the sport that makes it less suited for racing other than engine size, the plastic arms, towers, and arm mounts? I really am on a fairly low budget but I want the best I can afford that's why Im ditching the Associated.

Thanks for the help in advance!

:)

[losifreak2004]

Since you already have a radio system (I'd assume, since you had another car), you would save $$$ by buying the kit and an engine.

If you need the whole setup, I think Horizon has a few packages, but I don't know if any of them are unassembled XXX-NT's with radios and engines, but it's worth a look.

As far as the RTR Sport not being race-worthy, it's up to how often you crash. It does come with bearings, but some people have said the plastic is actually weaker, whereas it was meant to bend instead of break.

Bubba - You win the "Most Dedicated Turn Marshal Award"! HAHA that was SO dialed!

Racin Rev and Cabbynate - As I thought, Adam confirmed that Pinks are slightly harder than Red.

Aaron

[T2002]

I need some help/advice. I am having trouble when trying to start my XXX. It idles fine and runs fine, but I blow about a tanks worth of fuel trying to start it. When I pull start it I can see that the fuel starts to go through the line to the carb, but has trouble getting there. I have tried placing a finger over the exhaust, and this gets the fuel to the carb, but as soon as I uncover it and pull again the fuel backs down the line to the gas tank again. After a few blisters (from trying to pull start so much), and a tank of fuel or so it starts up and runs great. What the heck is the problem, and does it have anything to do with what I have described? Thanks for all/any comments!

[cabbynate]

Aaron:
I think you may have miss read my post.


Racin Rev,
Reds are soft. Pinks are med-soft. Silvers are med-hard and Golds are HARD!!!

Nate

[Alex-XXXNT]

"Are the plastic parts that come with the Sport junk? "
-----------======--------------
As Losifreak said, Ive heard the RTR is more likelt not to break while compared to the othe editions. More flexible plastic.

Put it like this. My brother rammed his into a curb going about 30 mph yesturday and it did a McTwist landed and kept going. Nothing broke....luckily.

[Alex-XXXNT]

T2002-
When I crank mine, I prime it like you said by putting my finger over the exhaust, and pull it once or twice.
When I pull it to crank, I use my left hand to manually give a little throttle with the servo (the car is turned off). It usualy fires right up. Also, do the usual knucklehead checklist....such as fouled out plug, low ignighter battery life, etc.

[windellmc]

How much should I expect to pay for a used XXX-nt with a Mugen MT-12 engine? The seller says it's a week old but I haven't seen pictures yet. If it is that new what is it worth? I'm pretty sure it is the standard kit and not the Drake edition.

[Nutter]

Got Speed: There is a XXX-NT kit that comes with a .12 engine - but it's only $10 less than the complete RTR Sport (remember though that it is the kit version of the XXX-NT, not the Sport - so it comes with the stiffer plastic, better chassis, better bearings, etc). Have a look on Stormer Hobbies for it (they have it in stock still, I don't think it's still made though): https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=LOS0841

windellmc: It depends.. has it got any upgrades, or is it bone-stock? Is it in good condition? How's the engine, was it broken in correctly & kept in good condition? A lot of permanent damage can be done to a nitro within only a week. It it's the kit version in mint condition, and I mean mint - nothing broken, all the bearings & diff are as smooth as new, properly broken in engine that's been hardly used & well maintained, then I think $250 is the most that you should pay for it; yes, 250 - it's used, even if it's perfect, it's still used. $250 is the price of the new kit, so basically it's like getting the engine for free as compensation for anything that's missing, broken, worn out, not as expected, etc.


-Nutter

[windellmc]

I thought the new kits were closer to $300?

[T2002]

Alex- Thanks for the input... I have tried giving a little gas with the servo and have had little success. New plug, new batt yadda, yadda, yadda. The problem seems to be aroud the fact that as soon as I pull start after letting go of the exhaust the fuel is sucked back twards the tank insted of the carb. Once I am lucky enough to get it started it runs great, so I dont think that its a compression issue... ***?

[Locus]

Anyone point me in the directions of some web pages that contain titanium parts for the XXXNT??

[Alex-XXXNT]

T2002-

check you fuel lines......

Make sure they are ran correctly:
1) first line from the back of the tank to the engine.
2) second line from the front of the tank to the exhaust.
*see the www.teamlosi.com webpage for pictures to best show it.

If it is already setup correctly, then try new fuel line. And when you crank it, turn the throttle servo over pretty good. This will open the carb up so it will fire up better.

[T2002]

I will give it a shot tonight.... I will let you know. Thanks.

[lositeamdriver]

i feel so loved lol i had to get it over there even if i fell! lol it was fun i think every one had bad luck out there! you guys post alot in a day ..dammm aaron you might see me with the losi agin the gt is not cutting it lately!!


bubba

[bullett1818]

GOT SPEED There is an ARR Sport kit, it cost 249.99 its the same as the rtr sport less all radio equiptment. Checkout Horizonbobby's website it;s on there. -BULLETT-

[Nitro Al]

Hey guys,

Has anyone gone through this Header :confused: , when i blip the throttle the engine reves normal but as soon as I am off throttle the pressure drives fuel into the pipe, so my engine shuts off this usually happens when Im just starting my truck. :mad:

I also noticed that the fuel starts to flow into the pressure line towards the pipe once I close the tank. :confused:

Should I add more line or cut it shorter? I have about 10 - 11 inches per the manual.

Or is this a tuning issue??


All replies are greatly appreciated.

Al
Setup: XXX-Nt (Drake) w/ OS CVr Drake Pipe and header

[losifreak2004]

cabbynate - LOL, I did read it wrong...sorry about that!

t2002 - Make sure you don't have any pressure leaks anywhere. This will stop the pressure from pushing the fuel into the carb.

Be careful when holding the throttle open when trying to start it. This could flood the engine, foul a glow plug, and give you more trouble than needed. Go back to the standard needle settings if you need to, and try again.

windell - Because that is a quite expensive engine, I'd buy it for up to $350.00 if the engine is fairly new. If there are any scratches on the chassis or signs of wear, I wouldn't go any higher than $300.00

Locus - I haven't really seen anything Ti other than Lunsford Hinge Pins and turnbuckles, and the Losi ball studs.

bubba - Dude that was SO hilarious. And you need a Losi truck! That GT is slow! HAHA. I'll wrench on your stuff for you though, you can't seem to finish a race :p

Nitro Al - Your pressure line is too short. Try 14" and see if that helps.

[lositeamdriver]

i bumped then i had to change crystals and they started with out me whats up with that..? man that sucked but at least i made people laugh! lol well the gt is still ne one race on it ill probaly pick up a losi this week some time! ok if i break the losi at the next race you are wreching on my blosi ...yahooo:D :D :D

[windellmc]

Al - you need to move the fitting for the pressure line to the tank lid. Don't ask me how to do it, I just know you need to do it to keep the fuel out of the pressure line. I think it involves drilling some holes in the lid. Hopefully someone on here will tell you how to do it.

[losifreak2004]

Al - Running the 14" of line will stop the fuel from entering the pipe. Even with the pressure fitting moved, it is possible that it could happen when the tank is full.

To do this mod, take the tank out of the truck. Trinity and Ofna sell 90 degree pressure fittings for this type of thing. Open the tank lid and put a clean rag over the opening of the tank (you can also take the tank lid off). Drill a hole through the cap (not the filler neck!) slightly smaller than the fitting you plan on using. Make sure you do not drill down over the screw in the lid, and that you need to go through both layers of the lid. When this is done, wash the tank out with fuel really well, and thread your fitting in. Some people put a little sealant around the fitting.

Then, take a button head screw and thread it into the old pressure fitting. A drop of sealant or CA will help here also.

bubba - You are supposed to have someone change your crystals or turnmarshal for you, so you can do it yourself! The way they see it, you had 11 minutes to get it done!

If you break your Losi truck again, I'll wrench on it after I stop laughing!

Aaron

[banditwing]

Hey all. What would be the speed of a XXX-NT with a O.S. CV? I know most will say, "It depends". But I mean like properly tuned and geared appropriatly.

Since engines last a bit, (At least I hope;) ) I may fork out some more cash for a better engine now and stick with it, rather than buying a CV now and then have to buy a better one later.

What are some good choices for the X-NT. *think powerful*:D

Im thinking an OS CV-R. But the Novarossi with 1.35 hp looks sweet:D :D

[DsWright]

The reason we recommended the CV to ya bandit is high HP engines are not forgiving to novice tuners, the CV is=)

A high HP engine means nothing if it's improperly tuned.

I know all the hot italian mills sound nice, but trust me, they are NOT for beginners.

If you decide to get a hotter engine anyway, Tower is selling O.S. CV-R's for like 125$ if i remeber correctly. And it's still a forgiving O.S. Engine, but not quite as forgiving as a CV=)

[purplerides]

T2002 - check lines for leaks , you shouldn't have to give it throttle to start , if the lines are ok , richen the bottom a couple of clicks , if it's to lean it may not get enough fuel to start and is essencially closed so enough fuel isn't reaching motor, also check that the fuel tank doesn't have a leak , sometimes the lid doesn't seal or may have a leak on the seam somewhere, when you do get it running does the chassis stay dry and clean or is it wet? if it's wet check for a leaky fuel tank.

[coolracer15]

Hey guys, I seem to have a gear problem everytime I start the truck and open the throttle the gears make weird sound, I did rebuild the diff but it didn't do anything to help, other than that I didn't do anything, I can't describe the noise, but it doesn't sound good. Any Help would be great



One Love

[XXXTNovakOrion]

T2002,

If you are still having trouble try buying those little Pressure Fittings that screw into your pipe etc. they might help your prob.

[lositeamdriver]

ok aaron you got it but they didnt tell me i had to chage they said it was clear till some other guys turned on his radio oh no it was stupid how they did it so im kinda mad at the hemet dirt people and a little at joey but hey **** happens right so its all good ...

[XXXTNovakOrion]

What happened?

[losifreak2004]

bandit - As I tell everyone, expect 30 MPH. That way, if it runs faster, you'll be stoked!

In my opinion, the CV-R carb is much better than the carb on the CV. And the CV-R is still an easy engine to drive and maintain, while being fast and has good low-end grunt.

purplerides - Good stuff!

coolracer - Try using a little bit of Losi hydra-drive lube on the gears. This should make them quite a bit quieter. Also, make sure the gears aren't wobbling or rubbing against the tranny case.

Eddie - Nice to see you on the board!

Bubba - Yeah, it was a bum deal, but there were 140 people there. They can't wait for everybody, and waiting for one person wouldn't be fair. It was already VERY late when they left. Don't worry about it, you still have four rounds left!

Everyone - I'm leaving tomorrow morning at some unreasonably early hour for the Hot Rod Shootout, and I won't be back at a computer until next Monday. Don't hound purplerides too badly! You can e-mail me any questions and I will get to them as soon as I can.

Wish me luck! And I hope everyone has fun driving their RC cars!

Aaron Waldron

[XXXTNovakOrion]

up late eh aaron? :P
good luck by the way

[T2002]

Well, I got out there tonight and it started right up for once... didnt even prime it. About 3/4 through my first tank I busted a front A arm, so the night for me ended there. I was with kevin-rtr (whom you all helped out in the past), and he busted one of the rear arms shortly after. We are true bashers who like big air... I dont want to sacrafice too much control by tightening up my springs too much... any ideas how to save the arms (other than taking it easy)? I have seen RPM makes what they call indestructible arms, and a larger front bumper both made out of nylon... are they any good?

[Alex-XXXNT]

Hey guys...

Im gonna be rebuilding my differential soon (for the first time - Im scared :D) ).
I was wandering if Im gonna have to take the entire back end apart, or is there some trick where I wouldnt need to totally rip this thing apart. I was looking at it last night, and it seems that I will need to take the slipper and diff of,f and pull the back completely off. Is this correct?

Alex

[XXXTNovakOrion]

T2002
I'd suggest aluminum or titanium a-arms if you have the money, they are pretty strong.


Alex

I believe you just need to take the shocktower screws out of the tranny, then undo the tranny brace screws, then the screws under the tranny on chassis. Good Luck on your diffs

[DsWright]

Actually i don't think they even make aluminum or titanium arms for the XXX.

And all aluminum arms do is cause other parts to break, like wheel hubs, bulkheads, pivot blocks, and eventually you end up turning it all into aluminum then having a wreck and bending 1/2 of it to the point of uselessness, then you are back to square 1 with a whole lot less money.

When you hit something hard something HAS to give.

If your rough on your car, have spare parts=)

If you jump alot bashing and break stuff that way, work on landing the truck flat, also if necessary go to a little lighter shock oil to let the chassis bottom out and take some of the hit, if you use heavier shock oil it tends to "pack up" at high shock shaft speeds and may lead to even more arm breakage. Or you could even go with shock pisons with a little larger holes to reduce damping slightly.

Just remember this truck is made to race=) So it's not designed to hit a wall at 30 mph and keep going, though sometimes you get lucky and it does.

Alex- Yes, unfortunatly you have to take the rear end apart, the tranny case in the rear is what the whole rear is centered around, and just about everything connects to it in some way to brace it and keep the chassis stiff.

[KEVIN-RTR]

T2002 - we're bashing a bit ... but that track we're on is laid out like a race track ... lots of doubles, banked corners ... tabletops ... i mean, we are looking to catch air, but its not like we're out to trash our trucks!

my question ... would it be better to stiffen up the shocks or get some stiffer springs to handle the hard landings? i know this will sacrifice a little traction ... but should we be a little stiffer than stock ... i see the adam drake set up with stiffer springs and heavier shock oil ... i guess we're looking for the best set up for running a track with some good jumps and harsh landings, but at the same time keeping the plush ride

[DsWright]

Springs control Rebound and wieght transfer more than absorbing impact, that is what shock oil is for.

However if you have high viscosity oil, and small pison holes, it tends to do what is called "packing up". Meaning the oil is trying to flow through faster than the holes will allow, and it actually stops flowing and prevents full shock travel at high shaft speeds(shaft speed being moving in and out of the shock). This can be handy at times, but it can also cause extra stress on shock arms and cause them to break easier. You can go higher wieght oil with larger shock pistons, you will have the same static damping and feel, but should be alot smoother.

give it a shot.

The only time you change springs under normal conditions is to much rebound in your shock, or to control the rate at which rate tranfers to different tires.

[jdm3849]

I just got the Sport last night,how can i tell if my diff. is tight enough before break in?

[Karlos Fandango]

I've finally lost my virginity......................... My first diff has had a meltdown:D

The thing is, when I was stripping down I managed to lose one of the damned bearings. Do I run on eleven and leave a gap, or bite the bullet and get some more???

Cheers

Karl

[Bobbyorr40]

guys

i broke my front arms on my xxx-nt and i was wondering is there a stronger material then plastic i can buy for my car

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Bobbyorr40 - You can buy losi's graphite suspension arms :)

[Nutter]

From like a page ago..
Locus: I saw someone recently on eBay selling several very nice looking titanium parts for the XXX-NT (a chassis, chassis brace, front skidplate, and rear shock tower stiffener), but they were very expensive for what they are, and no one bid on anything other than the rear shock tower stiffener (it was basically 2 thin pieces of titanium to go on the front & back of the very top of the rear shock tower). Other than that, turnbuckles, hingepins, ballstuds, and screws, there's not much else that's availiable in titanium that I've seen. Here's a link to the items he has up for auction currently (unfortunately the URL in the pictures doesn't work): http://cgi6.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=bdparts111&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=25

Karlos: I presume that you're talking about the diff balls, not actual bearings, as there's 12 diff balls. I'd first recommend getting out a magnifying glass & a big magnet to try to find the missing diff ball, otherwise you can run on only 11, but you may increase the chances of melting your diff again (there'd be 11/12 the friction of a full diff to keep the diff from slipping & melting).

Bobby: Well was it a XXX-NT kit, or a XXX-NT Sport RTR (or ARR)? If it was a Sport RTR/ARR, the arms from the kit XXX-NT are stronger & less likely to break apparently. There's also graphite, which while a lot harder & stiffer, is more likely to break than the XXX-NT kit's stock arms as it doesn't have much 'give'.

jdm: Read a few pages back; there was a very long & in-depth discussion on the diff & setting it correctly.

Kevin: It sounds like you just really need to learn how to jump properly - if you're breaking lots of parts on what is a pretty standard track layout, then it's most likely just how you're jumping.
Firstly, make sure you're hitting the jump straight-on, not from an angle, this will ensure that one side of your truck is not flying higher than the other. When approaching a jump, let off the throttle just before you hit the jump, and then apply throttle again when you're on the jumps face. Then while in the air, do not keep your finger on the throttle the entire time - giving it throttle will lift the nose up, while giving it brakes will point the nose down. Try to land as close to flat as possible, so all your wheels & shocks can take the impact rather than only 1 or 2.
It'll take a fair bit of practice, but when you get it right you should find that you're breaking far less parts than you are now. :)


-Nutter

[KEVIN-RTR]

you've got a good point ... i'm still learning to drive ... it is hard to get lined up to hit a jump straight! ... driving time and practice will help ... i was mainly asking if there was a set up that would be a better fit for conditions than the stock rtr set up ... also ... i think i might use the new bumper by RPM ... made from nylon ... looks like they'll have arms and towers soon too ... stronger and lighter ... they claim nearly unbreakable! check it out

http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/newprod/losparts.htm#XXXBump

[banditwing]

Geez guys. It may sound like I changed my thoughts a lot (which I have) but bear with me.:)

I just recently took a trip to the hobby shop to check out the XXX-NT and to race a bit with my rustler. The XNT Sport is nice. I also got a chance to see a guy assembling a Drake. I took a look at both and asked a few questions. The Drake doesn't look that much cooler than the sport. It's all in the adds.

As I said before, I am going to be running it in my backyard, but want to keep performance in mind. If you hit a curb- it doesn't matter if you have Graphite or Plastic, it's gonna break. To me even the sport is a big step up from my Rustler and I will be satisfied with it's features.

I just wish that it came as an unassembled kit with an engine. (the sport that is). It seems like I will be getting an ARR Sport for my hobby shop for $209. Then picking up an MX-3 later.

Sorry if I am pissing you guys off by having you answer a question then changing my mind later.:(

What do you think of my decision?

Thanks

[jdm3849]

Nutter, If i tighten it ALOT when i spin one wheel the other will go the same way,and if i tighten it sort of tight the other wheel will spin the opposite way. i am not racing so handling dosnt matter as much and i think i would rather have it locked and safe then loose and have a chance of blowing it.

[DsWright]

double post

[DsWright]

It's your money bandit, by all means buy what you think will be best=)

If you have ?'s were still here to help.

[Nutter]

jdm: When you're holding up the back end and you spin one wheel, the other should go in the same direction assuming that your drive train is free. This is because the clutch isn't engaged, so it can spin freely; your diff should never, ever be looser than the clutch is to turn. If you hold the spur however and then turn a wheel, the other one should rotate in the opposite direction fairly smoothly, but not effortlessly. Basically if you hold the spur and one wheel so they can't move, it should be very, very hard to turn the other wheel; we're talking quite painfully hard to the fingers that are holding the spur gear.
You're right about going for tighter rather the looser.

bandit: As DsWright said, we're happy to answer your questions, everyone dithers over big $ purchases. :) The Drake may not have many extra features/coolness for you as you're only going to be bashing, but for hardcore racers it's a dream machiene compared to the Sport. :D Even with my fully-graphite NT with lots of aluminium (f/r bulkheads, brake clips, etc), I'm still drooling over the Drake.


-Nutter

[rc10tc3drivr]

nutter im with you and if i get a drake ill be switching some aluminum parts around

[rc10tc3drivr]

will it hurt to get water on my xnt if i take out the electronics and motor

[jdm3849]

no,just dont dunk the whole thing under water,and make sure to dry everything off when your done.

Nutter, I think i tightened it all the way and now the other wheel spins the opposite way but its harder to spin.

[adim_x]

Hey guys, do any of you know what the baseline settings are on the mach .15 engine, my friend cant get his to start, and he messed up the needle settings, so i dont know where to start out to get it running, thanks

[jdm3849]

Read the manual. High Speed: 2.5 turns out, Low Speed: 4 turns out. And it might not be the settings that is making it not start. Could be the glow-igniter, Not priming it, engine flooded, exhaust or air cleaner blocked, ect.

[adim_x]

i think the motor is flooding itself while trying to start, glowplug good, glowdriver good, air filter is removed from vehicle, so i know that is not the reason, i just think the needle settings are all jacked up. MY friend turned the highspeed needle in so far that it scored the needle, now i think the needle goes in further than what it is supposed to

[jdm3849]

You MUST run with the air filter on,if you dont you could wreck the engine if dirt gets in.

[adim_x]

the car is run with the filter on, inside our shop, we cannot get it to start, how much dirt would it tak to make an engine not run,

[jdm3849]

A grain of sand could get in your engine and scar up the pistion/sleeve. It depends on how big the grains are really,dont risk it.

[adim_x]

im not, the truck is owned by my boss's grandson, and he was running it on our track with no body on, and his filter kept falling off, the kid has no common sense, i saw him cranking on his high speed needl, while the engine was not running and now i cant get it to start, no matter what i try, the needle goes further in than what i think it should, the needle now has a scar where it has been turned in to far

[proficar403]

Hey guys, i have a xxxnt, purchased as a sport rtr, but now has a picco/omega re engine in it. I will be racing it on road/oval. I have a problem.

When i tighten the slipper, it appears to be warping the slipper shaft. It will be on road, so i want it tight. I cannot figure it out. The shaft is NOT warped when i loosen everything.

[FastEddy]

proficar403,
Well finely its good to see another oval racer,
Don’t tighten it up to much. Let the slipper do its job. If it’s too tight you will be fighting the truck until its up to speed. The oval isn’t about getting off the line its about being smooth and consistent.

Keep loosening it until you can take off WOT in a striate line.
Have you lowered your truck yet?

[obmd]

What an idiot this kid sounds to be. Looks like you need a new carb (get an OS carb and a carb adapter to fit your engine). Tear down the engine and make sure there are no scratches in the sleeve. Also make sure you can't push the piston all the way to the top of the sleeve. If you can, then you need to replace the piston/sleeve.

Good luck!!

[rc10tc3drivr]

what kind of screw do you put in the pressure line spot when you drill a new one in the lid

[LasagnaCat]

If you've replaced a battery box ever (hasn't everyone at some point?) the little screws that they include to hold the top of the box on are a *perfect* fit for the old pressure line spot.. Just be sure to shoe goo/glue/whatever around the screw after it's in..

[coolracer15]

Hey guys, I was wondering if I could install a fuel filter on my truck and if it would help any, also where can I get one.



One Love

[jugg2]

high there i have xxxnt team with picco 15 1.3hp my stock cluth bell spur gear. and gear i race it onroad i was wondering what gears should i use o get more topspeed .also do they make a 2 speed trans for this thanks for the help jugg2@hotmail.com

[Ryche]

Yes you can run a fuel filter, and i HIGHLY recommend it.. here's one from tower..


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXVH19&P=7


Ryche

[XXXJohnny]

Check out what I noticed my xxxnt is doing. The gas tank has an overflow problem. It seems that when I run the motor for a while the chassis gets hot. pretty common right? but the tank builds up with pressure because it is so close to the engine. so the fuel rushes up the gas line and floods my engine. making it very difficult to start someimes. the other line to the pipe just syphens through the pipe and gets full of gas. I have had 1/3rd tank when I left it hot, and it all was gone by the time it cooled. Is there a reason why the tank is building pressure when hot? what about heat tape around my tank to resist heat. hmmm. please help. has this happened to anyone else here???

[XXXJohnny]

tank is so close to heat, and is on the chassis making it get hot and build up with pressure.

BTW I used scotch brite to polish the black off the losi pipe. what a difference. black was ugly!!

[XXXJohnny]

Just a tip for everyone who reads this.

If your having problems with the battery box breaking apart and bending up from landing jumps try this. get 2 ball ends and some associated balls. cut a piece of rod 2". the shock tower has a hole, so screw one ball in there. the other on the box needs to be drilled. just snap the small turnbuckle that you made into place and it will add alot of strenth to the battery box. I need a new shock tower so I have not put the left one on yet. You also might want to go to the hardware store and get 4 slotted screws for the box. those allen heads that it came with really suck. for a few bucks you can forget about the battery box breaking apart and the batteries falling out. (and the car screaming down the street out of control with no power... 2 blocks) it happens:eek:

[Racin Rev]

XXXJohnny,
The tank problem is common. Your fuel could, however, be going two places.
1. into the carb as you suspect (this is the problem that i have had), if this is the case you should have problems with your engine hydrolocking.
2. Into the expansion chamber (muffler) which would not have any other symptoms other than a lot of spray when you start up the next time.

Some people have modified the cap (see posts on this thread for help on this, only a page or so back) on the tank to prevent pressure build up, but this, i believe will reduce performance of the tank (I think that the design is a good one.) The other things that you can do is:
1. legnthen the hose from the gas tank to the expansion chamber, which will help while you are running.

2. buy 2 pair of cheap hardware store forcepts and clamp the fuel and pressure lines between runs. If you do this the fuel will not be able to go anywhere and muck up anything.

[XXXJohnny]

My line to the pipe is 11" as the book says. Does it need a longer one? Or should I loop the hose?

[xxxnt-user]

Can anyone confirm that there is a fuel filter in the xxx-nt fuel tank? Some say yes, and some say no. If there is one, can I remove it to clean it?

Also, has anyone experienced servo glitches when the engine is off (radio and receiver are on) and use a screwdriver to tap on the throttle / brake linkage? Both servos glitches 99% of the time when I use a screwdriver and touch the engine head and the throttle linkage. The glitches get worse when the engine is running. Is it because of the AM radio that came with this RTR?

[FastFreddy]

There is definately a filter in the tank. You can see it from the bottom of the tank. It is not removeable. You can reverse flush it with some fuel and an air compressor if needed. Put a little fuel in tank, point away from anything that might get damaged/injured by fuel spray, and blow light compressed air through pressure tap.

[Crashbot2001]

sorry guys, I know this is off topic, but I also know a lot of you guys race competitively and I wanted your opinion..

We're building a track in Hartsville, SC. We were debating the lane width. Everyone seems to want 12' wide but I think that's huge and it limits the cl length of course. What do you guys think? Here's a pic of the 12' wide design we were looking at. The 10' by 50' empty section at the top left is actually a portion of an on-road course so it isn't available for use.. thanks in advance for your input!



http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid26/p05611e5e6b463c2e2f6603d286d97448/fd82a72f.jpg

[xxxnt-user]

Hey fastfreddy, From the bottom of the chassis, I see a something that's round in the fuel tank. Is that the filter? if there is a filter in the tank, shouldn't it be at the opening to the fuel line? That would make the most sense, but I don't see it when I remove the fuel line. Also I am right, would it be better to blow through the fuel line into the tank to clean the filter?

[purplerides]

xxxnt-user - there is a filter in the tank where freddy said it is , the filter is at the base of the line that goes from tank to carb. , there is no need for an additional filter but that is up to you if you want one put one on , if you would like to clean the one in the tank put some fuel or iso alcohol and swish around and blow in the line for more aggitation and back flush then dump out.

[purplerides]

crashbot - if your just racing 1/10th scale 12' lanes are a little wide but if your not going to gain much more room to do different track designs with 10' lanes you might as well keep the 12' lanes if you have alot of beginners the wider lanes will help them , if your also racing 1/8th scale keep the 12' lanes.

[R/C_12]

mainly towards Aaron or cabbynate..

I'm thinking about going up to The Dirt sometime (If I can get my mom to take me one of these weeks) and was wondering if you guys put new rear tires on everyrace? Now once go racing once i know ill be going atleast once a month and a new set of rears would be about $30 bucks. $30 bucks a month I can do, but I also need things like fuel and parts. So my two questions are...

- Could I still be competetive in the Sportsman class with tires that have had 1 full race day and probably 2 practice days? Or should I just save some lunch money and go for new tires every month?

- How often do you change your tires? every race?

Thanks,Tyler

also, does Panther have a web-site?:)

[FastFreddy]

Yep, you're right:rolleyes: I was thinking backwards. you want to blow into the fuel outlet line to clean out the gunk. Sorry:D

[XXXTNovakOrion]

Tyler,

I race at The Dirt all the time...its my home track. I run step pins front and rear (muddy track best traction) and i get about 2-3 races out of my pins before i need to replace them. Good luck hope to see ya there.

[rc10tc3drivr]

ive had my step pins for ever and they still run like new



what charger do you guys use to charge the trinity reciever pack



does anyone know of a cheap place to buy an m8

[jdm3849]

Does My Stock X-NT Sport have a throttle return spring? Also if i'm going to be running on dirt and mostly gravel (big rocks) what would be a good tire to use? Alos i stripped the reciever box screws already,should i dremel a flat head spot so i can take them out?

I would also like to know how to charge the trinity NMH 5 cell battery pack,all i have left over from my electrics is a junky 15 minute charger.

[xxxnt-user]

Hey p.rides and freddy, I removed the fuel line from the tank and looked through the fuel line opening. I don't see a mesh or some sort of a filter. I can see straight through to the bottom of the tank. If I see from the bottom of the chassis, I see a round thing stuck at the bottom of the fuel tank. I don't think it make sense to have the filter at the bottom of the tank, right? Is there a decrease in performance if I use an online fuel filter together with the standard Losi filter (if there is one)?

[FastFreddy]

xxxnt-user...Yep, the bronze disc you see through the chassis hole is the filter. The fuel pickup is at the bottom of the tank therefore the filter strains the fuel in the beginning. You don't need another filter but I have heard others doing it. I see it as two more connections that can pull apart in a crash and stop the engine.
jdm3849...The sport xxx-nt has a throttle return spring that attaches to the rec cover. Notching the screws works. Get a better hex driver so they don't strip so easily. Ones made from drill blanks work well.

[jdm3849]

Man,I had a whole thing typed up and I heard that i got mail so i looked and Freddy had already answered before me,but yes he's right.

Edit: thanks Freddy because I was hearing all these horror stories about losi runaways and I was getting scared, I thought thats what it was but i wasnt sure.

[FastFreddy]

Originally posted by jdm3849
Man,I had a whole thing typed up and I heard that i got mail so i looked and Freddy had already answered before me,but yes he's right.

Edit: thanks Freddy because I was hearing all these horror stories about losi runaways and I was getting scared, I thought thats what it was but i wasnt sure.

LOL...I'm a fast typer(sp?) too:D
The spring works too! I found this out when I also found out why my radio was beeping:confused: Low on battery:D

[R/C_12]

XXXTNovakOrion- thank god...I was really worried about cost on tires. I race go-karts and we put a new set on every race, so im happy to here R/Cs are not as often:D . Wow, ive never heard of running step-pins in front, maybe I'll try that. First I need to just get on a track, I havnt been on one since I was like 7. What class or classes do you run in? I'm going to go in Sportman truck or a novice class if they have one. I'll probably be at the track for the first time the week after next.

Thanks, Tyler

[cabbynate]

Tyler:
You don't need to change your tires after every heat. You could run one new set of step-pins your hole race day and be very competative. After every heat just switch left to right ect....
I would run med-soft Panthers or Losi Pinks. Bouth of these should give you good traction and last the hole day no problem.
Silver Directionals up front worked great for me and a fresh pair will last 4 or 5 race day easy if you never run the truck on the street. Panther has a web sitehttp://www.panthertire.com
Good luck.
Nate

[XXXTNovakOrion]

Tyler- It just depends on what i feel like running, some nights i run my xxxt, sometimes its my xxx-nt drake, and sometimes its my 1/8 buggy. Usually they just run everyone in novice, but it depends on what day you go. Hope to see ya there and good luck. Where do you live?

[Alex-XXXNT]

Here are a couple of videos I made with my webcam today...

Enjoy...
(right mouse click to download-save target as)
----> Jump1 <----- (http://home.nc.rr.com/powderfinger/xxx-nt jump1.AVI )
----> Jump2 <---- (http://home.nc.rr.com/powderfinger/xxx-nt jump2.AVI)
----> Crash1 <---- (http://home.nc.rr.com/bunchacrap/xxx-nt crash1.AVI)
----> Crash2 <---- (http://home.nc.rr.com/bunchacrap/xxx-nt crash2.AVI)

[Lowrance]

For sale:12 slightly used,kinda black and not very round diff balls.Special grooved diff rings and a slighly melted diif gear included for FREE!

Yeah,I finished breaking in my new RTR Losi today!

[FastFreddy]

Does anyone make a camber/toe set-up tool that would work on a xxx-nt?

[R/C_12]

XXXTNovakOrion- I live down in Oceanside, how about yourself? Oh I didnt know they had Electric classes, maybe Ill bring my T3 down if I dont have to sell for the NT. What do you mean they usaully run everyone in the Novice class? Do you mean everyone in one big group? If so, Id like that better. The more dirt flying the better:D

Well I have Algebra homework...gotta love school:rolleyes:

see ya, Tyler

[XXXTNovakOrion]

I live up in Banning, yes they run all in novice most of the time
unless tebo or drake is there then they will have expert etc.
do you have AIM or anything?

[R/C_12]

Well my parents are divorced and I go back and forth between houses. A week here then a week there, so I have AIM and compuserve which runs off the AOL server so im sure that my compuserve screen name will work on AIM.

At my dads house (which I will be at this whole next week starting tomorrow) I have AIM. My sn is: ElementFire32

Here at my moms on compuserve I'm: Typhoon313131

Not familiar with Banning, I'm guessing thats north of Hemet??

-Tyler

[Racin Rev]

Originally posted by XXXJohnny
My line to the pipe is 11" as the book says. Does it need a longer one? Or should I loop the hose?

11 inches should be sufficient. It can still leak back while you are running but not very often. I would get the forcepts however to clamp both ends when you aren't running. it solved my problems in this area. I bought a couple of these for about $3 a piece. Not surgical quality but they clamp the hoses just fine.

[fly boygt]

Hey everyone i got a drake kit a couple days ago and i was wondering on a setup tip for a smooth dusty track, other then the drake setup, and i was wondering what type of tires to use?
thanks in advance, and also i was thinking of putting a fantom .12 in it?any words on this, anyways thanks for your help:)

[xxxnt-user]

Thanks f.freddy and p.rides for the filter info. I have another question (not filter related) for anyone. Has anyone tried the wide bumper for xxx-nt from RPM? I only use the truck for race purposes and practice driving. In my situation, is there any use for the bumper? Does the bumper provide additional protection, say if I land the truck head first after a jump? Or the bumper only cause other parts to break. Or it's just plain useless.

[cabbynate]

xxxn-user:
I use a RPM bumper #73712 for the XX series. You have to JB weld the XX holes and use the small XXX bumper as a stencil.
Drill out the new holes and ues a Dremal to counter sink the holes and BAMMO! You got a race bumper that is bigger than the XXX bumper but not big and wide like the one RPM is making for XXX. It more like an AE GT front bumper.;)

[xxxnt-user]

Thanks cabbyn8. But the bumper that you are referring to looks like the stock except with a little more plastic that curls further up. Doesn't this still have a problem with a front angle impact towards the arms? Is there such a thing as a race bumper and a non race bumper? Or is this a dumb question :) ?

[jdm3849]

Dumb question. J/K But no they dont make a race and non-race bumper,people who race just use the smaller one,but if i was going to race i would get the big one because your less likely to break an arm and you can push other cars out of your way better:D

I asked if anyone had that wide bumper and no one did. I am bashing so I am going to get it just in case.


Fly, That fantom engine will really rip,another engine to look into is the Orion wasp .12, 1.45 hp and it legal!

[KEVIN-RTR]

i was looking into getting the RPM bumper myself ... can't find it for sale anywhere ... does anyone know where i can get it?

[jdm3849]

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=RPM73602

If that dosnt work just search under RPM parts at stormerhobbies.com in about the middle of the page you'll find it.

It is on order there so you could get it from there,Stormer is not like tower,when stuff is on order its on order

[XXXJohnny]

I cant find too many hop ups to set my truck apart. i found a few trinity alum. parts. rear pivot block has been a life saver. but are there any companys that make hop ups yet?

[jdm3849]

R.P.M makes some but not many,there will be enough to set your truck apart from others.

[R/C_12]

Get a spec XXX-t blue bumper...thats different:p ;)

[KEVIN-RTR]

anybody seen any good bodies? ... i don't see many options for the losi ...

[cabbynate]

xxxnt-user:
I race and I really like the bumper I made. I would not race with the wide one. It looks funky and it may not be legal? The one I made takes a lot of impact. RPM calls it the cushioned front bumper and I agree. It also won't dig in on a nose down landing like the stock one dose.

[DsWright]

Ok reciever pack question for you guys.......

I currently have a trinity XXX-nt pack 1100mah. I use an overnigh