Team Losi XXXNT forum v3.0

[FastFreddy]

Bandit: With any kit or ARR/RTR you will need to assemble a "pit box" full of the parts that you would expect to fail(eg. a-arms, shock towers, xtra screws, diff parts, body clips, and on and on). You can buy these bit by bit and store them in a compartmentalized box. I usually get stuff from my local hobby shop(LHS) or eBay or any one of the online catalog stores(Tower Hobbies, Horizon Hobby). The truck will come with a blown-up diagram showing each part and it's number. There is also an upgrade list(hop-ups).

Hope this helped:D

[DsWright]

Alex- no matter what, it's still not a starterbox=)

Starterbox is probably the best Rc investment i ever made, no worrying about charging a glow ignitor, no blisters from pullstart strings. No having to have a drill charged to use to start it.


In my opinion buying a starterbox is a one time invetment that you won't regret, it's more expensive than some options, but non ps engines are cheaper. For example if you buy a .12 CV-R, you pay 25$ more for the pullstart, then you pay another up to 20$ for a glow ignitor and charger. that's 45$ you could put towards a starter box, your 1/2 way there=)

[FastFreddy]

Isn't a starter box a pain to haul around, though, when you aren't racing?

[rc10tc3drivr]

no i think the starter box is one of the best things invented in r/c

[DsWright]

Hell no, alot less of a pain than charging and forgetting where the glow ignitor is, and alot less than the pain of pulling on the lawnmower like cord till my hand is blistered and the cord breaks.

I set my box down, set my truck on it, hook it to the ignitor cord, and push down, and it starts. that simple.

I consider myself an experienced engine tuner, and i find myself still having trouble getting a pullstart engine that's cold to start in a couple pulls. Warm they aren't bad, but a cold engine with a pullstart is a pain in the rear. And this is exaggerated even more in cold weather. Or even worse when a little oil seeps out of the rear crank bearing and the pullstart starts to slip, that's always fun, especially when your friends who are thinking about buying nitro cars are watching you struggle to start it.

The 12V gellcell battery i have in my box will last at LEAST 2 race weekends before i have to charge it, i have gone up to 2 months without having to charge it once before.


But i think starterboxes are more important for those who don't have experience tuning, as starting a pullstart improperly tuned is an exercise in futility. The box itself isn't to large and cumbersome, ask anyone who owns one, most will agree with me i believe=)

[Dnmeistr]

Wow those power starters are expensive, of course that is par for the course since this after all r/c :D And the replacement gears are a little expensive also.

Dnmeistr

[Alex-XXXNT]

that's always fun, especially when your friends who are thinking about buying nitro cars are watching you struggle to start it.

DsWright - Thats so true! They never act right when your freinds are watching. Kinda like asking the IT guy to come over and fix your computer. As soon as he arives, the computer majically starts working fine again. Ugh!

Anyways, I may look into investing into a Starter Box once the cold weather starts to come around. As of right now, I dont have any problems with my pull start, but can imagine the cold weather playing havic on me.

DsWright -
What Statrter Kit would you suggest for a XXX-NT RTR Mach 15?

[bullett1818]

Whuts up? AGAIN!? I got 27 emails today saying 5 or 6 different people replied to the forum I get here and nuttin new. Same thing that happened before! :( -BULLETT-

[KEVIN-RTR]

AARRRRGGG !!!!!

[KEVIN-RTR]

DsWright ... or anyone ... i looked around and decided to order the OFNA 10257 starter box ... i came today ... but no instructions!@ ... could you clue me in how to to set it for my car ... xxxnt RTR .. and maybe a clue on how to properly use it ... i've never even seen one used before ... thanks for the good advice and the help !

[DsWright]

I tried to post last night, forum wouldn't let me, kept timing out.


I have mine setup so the top is easy to line my truck up to the flywheel, i placed the included plastic holders and screws to sit next to my chassis and my chassis sit flat on top of the box. The holders are there so my truck can only sit in the position i can start it in on the box, so i don't mess up the rubber start wheel by dragging it on the chassis.

You should do the same, set it up so the back of your truck (battery box) is near the handle of the starter box. this ensures the engine is being cranked the proper direction.

I wish i had a camera to post pics, but i don't=(

Best i can desribe it is to align the plastic pieces so the truck sits and can be started without the starter wheel rubbing anything but the flywheel. Once these peices are set you can tighten them and never have to worry about getting your truck to sit on the box properly to start.

Then if your battery is charged and your glo ignitor is on, all you have to do is push down on the car itself, there is a pressure switch inside the box that starts the motors to turn the flywheel.


You did get the box with the banana plug glow ignitor, the power panel and the gelcell battery all included right? I believe that box is prebuilt. Because if the box needs to still be built then we need someone who can post pics of it, hard to describe without instructions.

hope this at least helped some, good luck with it.

[jdm3849]

Fast freddy, I got the tranny out w/o taking off or loosening the engine, I got the screw out and its fine,but the nut is nuked. Thanks for the help:)

EDIT: Fred, could you tell me what I should ask the LHS for when I go in there? like : I need some mini locknuts and their part number is 34567.

Someone else told me to get A-6306 4-40 Aluminum nuts
Will those work?

BTW,how much will it cost to get those nuts that you were talking about? How many come in a pack?

[KEVIN-RTR]

yeah ... thats the box i got ... that answers my questions ... i figured you didn't want it to hit the flywheel till you pushed down ... and i can line it up so the starter wheel just hits my flywheel only ... looks like a good set up ... so you push down on the car not the box lid, right?

[purplerides]

that's correct push down on the car , actually i normally just push the car down with the glow igniter to engage the flywheel.

starter boxes rules , i had mine for 4-5 years now , works every time , i'd suggest getting one to every nitro owner , i'd also suggest getting one with 1 large 12v motor and a gell cell batt. , the ones with the 2 smaller motors and drive belt don't last as long and aren't as reliable . i have an Ofna box

i also have been having a real tough time posting on this forum today.

[DsWright]

I have a 12V motor box myself now.

But the people i have seen with the 2 motor boxes, if they have had trouble they just spend 30$ or so and upgraded the motors.

I had the 2 motor box first and got well over a year of race abuse out of the motors. and im still useing everything that came with the box but the motors itself.

Just remember if you have a 2 motor box to not spill fuel or fluids into the box, this is what killed mine after about a year, gummed up the comms on the motors.

Some guys at my track have had 2 motor boxes still stock for over 2 years.

good luck with it, im sure you will like it=)

[WHITESTER1]

Hey people, I need some help.. I cannot find the part number for the Aluminum 2 degree Rear hubs. Thanks if anyone can provide me a part number.

[dkj-M3]

TTK5103 Trinity Team Kinwald, XXX/XXXT Rear HUB CARRIERS, 2 degree-blue aluminum

Make sure you slot the end of your ball studs & they DON'T need to be threadlocked. I ran a 10min B-main & bump-up for a 15min A-main back to back with no problems.

If your coming back to CRCRC, i'll see you then & keep the vids coming.

[WHITESTER1]

Hey thanks DK! Oh yeah I'll be back to CRCRC... I will be there alot over the winter.

Thanks alot

[RedWolf]

Originally posted by DsWright
Hell no, alot less of a pain than charging and forgetting where the glow ignitor is, and alot less than the pain of pulling on the lawnmower like cord till my hand is blistered and the cord breaks.

I set my box down, set my truck on it, hook it to the ignitor cord, and push down, and it starts. that simple.

I consider myself an experienced engine tuner, and i find myself still having trouble getting a pullstart engine that's cold to start in a couple pulls. Warm they aren't bad, but a cold engine with a pullstart is a pain in the rear. And this is exaggerated even more in cold weather. Or even worse when a little oil seeps out of the rear crank bearing and the pullstart starts to slip, that's always fun, especially when your friends who are thinking about buying nitro cars are watching you struggle to start it.

The 12V gellcell battery i have in my box will last at LEAST 2 race weekends before i have to charge it, i have gone up to 2 months without having to charge it once before.


But i think starterboxes are more important for those who don't have experience tuning, as starting a pullstart improperly tuned is an exercise in futility. The box itself isn't to large and cumbersome, ask anyone who owns one, most will agree with me i believe=)

What starter box do you have?

[DsWright]

I started with the ofna RTR box that Kevin-RTR just got.

Now i have the 12V motor ofna box and i stripped all the electrics out of my old box. I could have kept the RTR box, and just bought better motors for about 30$ or less, but having a couple .21 engines i decided to go with the 12V box.

The rtr box is less than 100$ maybe even less than 90 now from tower. and will work fine for 99% of the people that want/need them.

Hey DKJ im coming out to crazy boys on sat for the money race, you coming and does mark have his 1/8 scale running yet?

[dkj-M3]

I'll be there, I don't think Mark can make it, but he does have the buggy running. Lets just see if it runs when he gets it to the track.LOL

Oh yeah, when you get to W. Ford Rd. don't get lost b/c the pole is there but the sign for the street name is missing.

[DsWright]

haha i hope i remeber that on like 3 hours of sleep and driving like 2 hours=)

I won't make it to dirtcountry on the 4th, but i'll be there every week they race after that till columbus opens, then there just about every weekend.

the weekend of the 4th me and some friends are going to northern michigan for beer, canoeing, camping and gambling in Windsor on the way up, not necessarily in that order=)

haha funny thing is the way i drive it will probably be cheaper to loose all my money in the casino instead of breaking everything on the track=)

[dkj-M3]

Yeah, you really have to take it easy on their track, if you want to finish the main, it eats parts for breakfast, lunch & dinner then comes back for seconds. Just to let you know, there's an on-road track about 10 min away from Crazy boys. I usually try my Super Nitro out there, after the race.

Does anyone know the performance difference of the Limited Edition RTRace XXX-NT pipe & the new Drake kit pipe? I'd like to know which has more bottom/top end.

[DsWright]

Im a big fan of the drake kit pipe myself.

It has plenty of bottom end, not a ton of top end, but combined with a silver carb restrictor i can get power down very smooth and in a hurry now.

If we have a chance i'll let ya try mine out and see if you like it.

Btw i have a 19t clutch bell in now, should i go back to 18 for this track? or is it kinda tight like dirt country?

[dkj-M3]

19 should be fine, but it's a tight track. I ran a 20 fine except for the double before the short stright, but most of the good drivers(a lot better than me) ran 18t & still had trouble making that double. I'm gonna try the 19t.

peace

[ronvdp]

Sport RTR Tranny Question

Does anyone know why there is a single thin washer that fits between the outdrive and the large sealed bearing in the case. Mine had only one which I thought was odd and without it there was some play in the diff after the tranny was put together. That play is gone with the washer in. Furthermore, there is no mention of the washer in the instructions or exploded diagram.

Thanks for any info

BTW, this forum is an incredible source of info and tips as I am a total newbie and have been able to help others that I have brought into the hobby with what I have learned here. :D

[purplerides]

tha washer is there to take up the excess play , most of the trans. i've built didn't require them but some do just make sure it isn't to tight. and check it after the tranny is complete both halves together , there should be a little play to allow the trans to spin freely.

[KEVIN-RTR]

that starter box is a rookies dream ... its soooo easy to tune ... starts are a breeze ... and you can make small adjustments without struggling for 10 minutes to get a hot engine going... it works great ... that stupid pull start really chews up your body if you leave in on as you push pull and slide your car along .... the starter box makes everything so much easier ... trust me .... got the box at stormer racing for $80 ... it saves time and wear and tear ... and that glow plug igniter really fires up ...

everyone should have one !!!! and my blisters are going to heal!

Thanks for the advice guys !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[DsWright]

ah another has seen the light:D

glad you like it, and hopefully understand why i think everyone needs one:cool:

Sometimes this was a frustrating hobby for me till i discovered starter boxes myself, i enjoy it 10x more now since i always get my engine running=)

[FastFreddy]

I just found this nut (http://www.1hg.com/cw/item1.cfm) that eliminates that plastic adapter and the nut. It is for sale on Tower Hobbies site for like $10.
As far as the nuts, I bought a full diff rebuild kit so I would have the spare parts. I think it was $6.50. I also bought a pack of trinity nuts EVO 143 for $3.50. I hate not having parts to keep going when I break something.




[QUOTE]Originally posted by jdm3849
Fast freddy, I got the tranny out w/o taking off or loosening the engine, I got the screw out and its fine,but the nut is nuked. Thanks for the help:)

EDIT: Fred, could you tell me what I should ask the LHS for when I go in there? like : I need some mini locknuts and their part number is 34567.

Someone else told me to get A-6306 4-40 Aluminum nuts
Will those work?

BTW,how much will it cost to get those nuts that you were talking about? How many come in a pack? [/QUOTE ]

[FastFreddy]

Alright, I'm gonna get one too! Is there a backplate that will fit the mach 15 so I can ditch the pullstart weight??


Originally posted by DsWright
ah another has seen the light:D

glad you like it, and hopefully understand why i think everyone needs one:cool:

Sometimes this was a frustrating hobby for me till i discovered starter boxes myself, i enjoy it 10x more now since i always get my engine running=)

[KEVIN-RTR]

i'm leaving my pull start on ... who knows what can happen ... i can still pull start when the need comes ... i hear the benifit of taking it off is not that great ...

[banditwing]

Thanks for the replies. I am wondering if the XNT Sport comes with any additional piston heads to tune the shocks. Otherwise it only comes with #54 and #56?????:confused:

I guess I'd just have to buy them then. Thanks, I do plan to ammass the parts. Just wondering what it comes with:)

Thanks

-Banditwing

[RedWolf]

I am getting this starter box made by OFNA.. Part # 10257
1) Does that starter box come with a gel cell battery?
2) And if it doesnt where can I find one.
3) Do you have to take off the pull start to use a starter box?
4) If i get that starter box, what else will I need?
5) I am getting the Tripple x-nt sport and I was wondering what I will have to get in addition to the things mentioned above?
Thanks very much Travis

[jdm3849]

Ok, I went to my LHS yesterday and got a Diff. tuning kit because they did not have seperate 4-40 locknuts, Well I have it installed and the diff. is very tight, but when I peg the gas from a standstill the engine seems to rev high but the car dosnt go right away,could it be my slipper slipping? It also does this when I am already going at a fast rate and I goose it, It just rev's up instantly and dosnt seem to go faster. Could it be that my engine isnt tuned right yet? I'm waiting for my MIP guage to get here just to be safe.

[ronvdp]

I have my tranny apart (Sport RTR) waiting for a new compund gear from Losi. It appears that the compound gear and diff gear have bent teeth, kind of like a shark fin shape. I noticed when it was new that the tranny wasn't that smooth but it got much worse and after rebuilding the diff (stripped nut again:mad: ) it just seemed really bad. I talked to Losi and they are sending new parts. Has anyone had this happen? If so can you tell me why it happened and how to avoid it in the future. Also, now that the diff is out I am curious if it is set right. I know this has been asked a million times and I think I've read every page on this thread but I still don't know if it is right. I tighten it until I feel the resistance of the spring being fully compressed and the diff is really tight. I then back off which seems like a full turn or more until it feels smooth. ***When holding the outdrives with allen wrenches I cannot move the diff gear at all, should I keep loosening the adjustment until I can move the diff gear, then tighten just a bit from there? ***I don't really know anyone with experience to tell me if it feels right and the guys at my LHS's are pretty much all boneheads-I've only had quality customer service one time so I'm hoping you guys can help get this issue squared away for me. Thanks.

[FastFreddy]

Losi says:
"Monster Diff: The new “monster” differential designed for the NT will handle the extreme power of nitro motors. However, like all other differentials, it is not a slipper device. This new unit is designed to have not only greater power handling capabilities but also a broader range of adjustment. As with any differential, start by adjusting it per the instructions. The most reliable method of adjustment requires that you first lock up the slipper by tightening it until the spur gear won’t move without ripping the flesh from your hand. Grab the spur gear tightly between your thumb and first finger while cradling and holding the right rear tire firmly between your forearm and chest. Now try to turn the left rear tire forward. If it turns at all tighten the diff 1/8 turn and test again. When the diff stops turning and starts jumping and locking again (often referred to as chirping or barking) requiring substantial twisting of the rear tire it’s at the beginning of its useful adjustment range. Most of the pro’s run their diff on the right side but you should be able to find your “sweet spot” by gradually adjusting it tighter. "

[RedWolf]

Can any one help me out with the questions I asked above please? Thanks Travis

[TyroneShoelaces]

RedWolf,
It looks as if that starter box does include the battery. You will need to get a charger for that battery though.
You can leave the pull start on your engine.
You will also need a fuel bottle, some fuel, and a glow igniter to get your truck running. A temp gun would be a handy tool as well.

[DsWright]

the ofna RTR box he mentioned included the glow ignitor, the power panel in the front has a plug you attatch to the glowplug.

make sure you get a gell cell battery charger, an overnight wall charger will work fine, as you don't need to charge it much.

Im heading off to the money race in columbus in a little bit, i'll be back to answer any other ?'s when i get a chance.

[RedWolf]

Hey every one,

Do you need the trinitys reciever pack made for the tripple x-nt?
Do you need after run engine oil?
Do you have to get the brake in fuel made by trinity thats 20% nitro?
Do you need the duratrax deluxe car wrench?
Do you need extra fuel tubing?
Why do you need the temp gun?
Is it worth it to get the titanium hinge pins and turnbuckles?
What is the use of the temp gun?
What kind of glow plugs should i get for extras?
Do I need nitro cleaner to clean the truck at all?
What kind of ball cups and rod ends should I get for the turnbuckles if I get them?
How can I charge my reciever pack, I have the vison peak plus charger?
Thanks and i hope I didnt ask to many questions... If i think of any more I will add them on later in the list, Travis.

[XXXTNovakOrion]

Redwolf,

No you do not need trinity receiver pack but it is recommended
No you do not need after run oil but you should use it
No you do not need break in fuel by trinity you can use regular fuel
No you do not need deluxe car wrench
No you do not need extra fuel tubing but you might wanna get some as a just in case
Temp guns are VERY VERY handy. They tell you what temp you engine is running (obviously) and they help you tune.
It is definatly worht it to buy Ti turnbuckles and hingepins
You can buy whatever plug...it just depends on the engine
No you do not need nitro cleaner but it helps
I recommend RPM ballcups for your Ti turnbuckles
And you can charge reciever by converting it to the plug you use on the charger.

Most of those were just option parts etc that is not needed but some of it is definatly a good idea to have. You can buy what you want for your car since it is your decision, you dont have to not buy something because i said no. :)

[RedWolf]

Ok, I am getting the tripple x-nt and the mach .15 comes in it and I was wondering what kind of plugs will be best to use in it. Also what knd of connecter is the reciever connecter?
What kind of temp gun should I get?
Which RPM ball cups? Thanks Very much Travis

[KevanB]

will the xxxnt be good for me? I will bash for a while to get used to nitro and the car, and then i might race. Btw im a beginner, but not a beginner at r/c so i know my stuff. Would this be a good kiit or rtr for me?

[Dnmeistr]

You don't need the trinity receiver pack but it will make your life easier if you do get it also the great planes replacement screws #Q3002 at TH, you'll also need a switch with a charging connector so you can charge the pack. The trinity comes with a futaba connector so you will need to trim the tab on the side to fit in the JR receiver. I use MC59 plugs and a radio shack IR thermometer. To make starting easier first make sure the carb is primed then turn the tx on and leave the car off then open the throttle servo a 1/4, attach glo and pull the starter it should fire on the first pull and then turn the car on. I think it is easier this way than trying to hold the trigger or adjusting the th trim.

Dnmeistr

[jdm3849]

Originally posted by KevanB
will the xxxnt be good for me? I will bash for a while to get used to nitro and the car, and then i might race. Btw im a beginner, but not a beginner at r/c so i know my stuff. Would this be a good kiit or rtr for me?

I use O.S. A3 glow plugs and they hold up good under the heat.

[hdcchrome]

Weird problem, never had before...

I have a new Drake ed. truck and a serious issue. I fill the tank, close the lid and fuel begins poring out of the pipe. It will drain the entire tank before i can get it started for the back pressure. Anyone else had this issue???

[Dnmeistr]

Move the pressure line to the cap, you will get less aeration and the fuel wont back flow into the pipe.

Dnmeistr

[Racin Rev]

search back a couple of pages, there was a rather lengthy discussion on this very issue.

[FastFreddy]

Why would I be stripping out the mini-lock nut every time I try to "tighten the diff"? How much force does this actually take? Is there a fine line between tight and this nut stripping? I am gonna order that HM part but still have to know what's happening! Thanks in advance for your answers! FF

[hdcchrome]

Racin Rev,

Man I have read and read read and read read and read read and read read and read read and read and still don't see where you are talking about.

Do you know the solution? I think I am going to try moving the the preassure line to the cap.

Anyone know why in the hell they designed the tank like this? Seems everyone would have the same problem.

[FastFreddy]

This is one post I found on the subject:

Al - Running the 14" of line will stop the fuel from entering the pipe. Even with the pressure fitting moved, it is possible that it could happen when the tank is full.

To do this mod, take the tank out of the truck. Trinity and Ofna sell 90 degree pressure fittings for this type of thing. Open the tank lid and put a clean rag over the opening of the tank (you can also take the tank lid off). Drill a hole through the cap (not the filler neck!) slightly smaller than the fitting you plan on using. Make sure you do not drill down over the screw in the lid, and that you need to go through both layers of the lid. When this is done, wash the tank out with fuel really well, and thread your fitting in. Some people put a little sealant around the fitting.

Then, take a button head screw and thread it into the old pressure fitting. A drop of sealant or CA will help here also.





Originally posted by hdcchrome
Racin Rev,

Man I have read and read read and read read and read read and read read and read read and read and still don't see where you are talking about.

Do you know the solution? I think I am going to try moving the the preassure line to the cap.

Anyone know why in the hell they designed the tank like this? Seems everyone would have the same problem.

[RedWolf]

Originally posted by Dnmeistr
You don't need the trinity receiver pack but it will make your life easier if you do get it also the great planes replacement screws #Q3002 at TH, you'll also need a switch with a charging connector so you can charge the pack. The trinity comes with a futaba connector so you will need to trim the tab on the side to fit in the JR receiver. I use MC59 plugs and a radio shack IR thermometer. To make starting easier first make sure the carb is primed then turn the tx on and leave the car off then open the throttle servo a 1/4, attach glo and pull the starter it should fire on the first pull and then turn the car on. I think it is easier this way than trying to hold the trigger or adjusting the th trim.

Dnmeistr
Ok I have power pole connectors on my charger and I am getting the trinity reciever pack, what will I need to get it charged, and cant I just use an adapter sort of thingy instead of shaving down the side of the futabo connector? thanks Travis.. Also What kind of batteries doI use if I want to plug in the reciever to charge it? Thanks Again Travis

[banditwing]

I will be getting a sport soon, what else do I need?

-Sport ARR (I have a Futaba radio system from my Rustler)
-Dynamite gas starter pack. (Includes Nitro Wrench, Fuel bottle, Glow ignitor, Two glow plugs-Im not sure what temp, but they say "Sport plugs", extra fuel tubing, and a charger for the glow ignitor.
-After run oil
-Fuel (Duh!!)

Anything else??? Oh and I have AA batteries too.

People have been saying it is a good idea to buy hex drivers to replace the allen keys that they give you because the allen keys strip easily.

What size hex drivers do you need?? What do you think of Dynamite's hex drivers??

Thanks. Sorry for all the questions.

[Racin Rev]

hdcchrome
page 127
:D

The tank is designed to provide consistant pressure and not deflate as readily off throttle.

[Dnmeistr]

Originally posted by RedWolf

Ok I have power pole connectors on my charger and I am getting the trinity reciever pack, what will I need to get it charged, and cant I just use an adapter sort of thingy instead of shaving down the side of the futabo connector? thanks Travis.. Also What kind of batteries doI use if I want to plug in the reciever to charge it? Thanks Again Travis

If you get the trinity pack then you need to get a switch with a charging lead, trinity uses a futaba connecter, depending on the switch you get you may not have to do any trimming. I know they also make adapters to go to futaba to whatever radio you are using. The manufactures should pull there heads out of there A$$ and standardize all these receiver connectors. And you can get a servo extension cut it in half and attach your pp connectors to the other end for your charge adapter.

Dnmeistr

[Dnmeistr]

Originally posted by hdcchrome
Racin Rev,

Man I have read and read read and read read and read read and read read and read read and read and still don't see where you are talking about.

Do you know the solution? I think I am going to try moving the the preassure line to the cap.

Anyone know why in the hell they designed the tank like this? Seems everyone would have the same problem.

I had to wander to, I filled the tank and proceeded to pull the starter and everytime I pulled fuel would spit out of the pipe :lol I decided then that I was going to move the line to the cap.

Dnmeistr

[RedWolf]

Dnmeistr- What will I need to do exactly that? Like what part numbers and all, or would it just be eaiser to change the kind of connector on the battery pack and get a charger that will charge it over night w/ the JR type connector on it. Thanks Travis

[davenow]

Tally for todays adventure?
2 bald proline rear road tires
1 rear non graphite shock tower
1 sheared off rear shock monting bolt
1 bent right front shock shaft

I think the rear shock situation happened by way of BIG air 20-30 times, and the front shock got bent getting stuffed into the wheel of a parked car at high speed
Nothing too bad, will cost me about 15 bucks and 30 min to fix it all.

[Dnmeistr]

RedWolf

Here is what I did:
-Trinity pack, shaved connector
-Airtronics switch harness with z connector #97001Z
-Ernst charge receptacle #147 (this you cut a hole in the rec box and insert inside so you can hook your charge lead up when time to recharge) either place it on top of box or from the side, not enough room from the front. I inserted mine on the side towards front of truck in vertical position.
-6" servo extension #97010z, cut the end you don't need off and attach matching set of charge leads for your charger, charge at .5 amps. Plugs into receptacle when pack gets low.
-2-56 cap screws #Q3002, to replace the easy to strip screws in battery box

This is how I have mine setup. HTH

Dnmeistr

[Got Speed]

Hi, I posted on here a while back with some question about the XXXN-T. Well now Ive got some more Qs!

I was wondering if anoyone on here had both an RC10GT and a XXXN-T? I know the XXXN-T is a far more capable racer but Ive heard of complaints with weak arms and towers. Are these just people running sports, or people running their trucks really hard?

Keep in mind I am going to use this truck 100% for racing so I want to get the best that I can possibly afford, which isn't much since I have no job right now, so I am trying to sell my RC10GT :p to be able to afford a XXXN-T Adam Drake Edition.

1-Are there any nescesarry hop ups or weak spots on the ADE?

2-Will switching the universals to CVDs help or make any kind of difference? Are the universals hard ano. aluminum?

3-Are the step pin rear tires that come with it as raceable as bowties? When it is time for new tires should I stay with the losis or go back to the Pro Lines?

4-What type of header does it come with or can you choose?

5-Is it compatable with slide and rotary carbs?

6-The ADE is a kit with an unpainted body isn't it?

7-Are the hex bolts metric or english? Aluminum or steel?

8-Where is the cheapest place I can get one? Or are they all $320 since horizon distributes them?

Thanks for the help:o I hope to get one within the next month and a half.:)

[losifreak2004]

Chow - Why you selling?!?!?!

DsWright - Good stuff!

GotSpeed - The ADE kit is the best nitro truck on the market. The truck is very durable out of the box, but things like aluminum pivot blocks always help strengthen the truck.

CVD's are not needed, and on a rough track, they may hinder your performance.

The Losi Step Pins are just as raceable as the Bow-Tie, if not more so. For a very good fluffy track tire, try the Panther Step Pins www.panthertire.com

The truck comes with a hard ano'd side exhaust header. Both style carbs can be used (rotary is preferred in off-road!).

The body is unpainted, and all screws/nuts are steel (some aluminum nuts) and use the English system.

As far as prices, shop around at online stores, even your LHS.

Wow, I don't even know where to start catching up! If you guys need anything, I'm home now!

Aaron Waldron

[Got Speed]

Thanks for the help. Are the bolts just plain, hard ano, or standard ano? When you said aluminum pivot blocks do you mean arm mounts? Can I get the kit with a rear exaust header? Can it be bought seperatly?

Thanks again

[losifreak2004]

Got Speed - The bolts are plain steel, like all other Losi kits.

When I say pivot blocks, I meant the inner-arm mounts. Trinity makes aluminum aftermarket units, part numbers (front) TK5009 and (rear) TK5606.

Aaron

[XXXTNovakOrion]

Hey Aaron,
Welcome back. How was Saugus? just curious if your going racing this week and if so where?

[cabbynate]

Banditwing:
I use the Dynamite drivers and like them very much. Size: .50, 3/32" and 1/16". You will also need 2mm and a 2.5mm.

[banditwing]

Originally posted by cabbynate
Banditwing:
I use the Dynamite drivers and like them very much. Size: .50, 3/32" and 1/16". You will also need 2mm and a 2.5mm.

Thanks for the reply. I found the Duratrax driver set with rubber grips. I think they will be more comfortable, and they are only $3 each.

Is the .50 Metric or SAE?? Or is it .050, because I can't find a .50 in TORK?:confused: Nevermind, I'll find out when I get the truck. The sport does come with some allen keys at least, right?:( :confused:

Thank you

[rc10tc3drivr]

i just got the trinity pack and the native battery box but the pack wont fit in the box why is this i got the batt pack for the xxx-nt

[jdm3849]

Got Speed: If the people that were running sports were breaking arms people with standard kits and DE kits would be breaking easier because the parts dont have much flex and wont give in,in a crash.


How can I get just the motor mount screws and washers? Because in the parts list they only have the motor mount set which comes with the engine mounts,whats the part number and what the screws are (like size)

What are the 2 main size screws on the X-NT because I only have like 12 dollars and the dynamite tools are 6 a peice. out of the two main screws which are there most of on the truck?

[Dnmeistr]

Well they are only three that you will need, but if you only have enough for two then 1/16 and 3/32. The .050 is for battery box and throttle/brake set screws but then there the easiest ones to strip.

Dnmeistr

[losifreak2004]

XXXTNovakOrion - Another big event...another B Main HAHA. I ended up 6th in the B, so 14th overall. I missed the Stock Truck A by ONE POINT, blew out in the B, and got 15th. Stock 2W was a mess.....(24th).

Series race at Pro-Line on Saturday!

jdm - I haven't found a way to buy just the screws and washers. The washers are 5-40 x 1/2"and the washers are #5 countersunk washers.

The Stiffezell and Graphite arms will hold up to bumps and jolts better than the RTR plastic, because they are stiffer. The RTR plastic has an advantage in dead-on hits into solid objects, and in cold weather.

rc10tc3drivr - I believe the Native battery box was meant for 3x2 packs, not the special 4x1 Trinity pack.

banditwing - The .050" wrench is SAE. The kit comes with allen keys.

Anything else?

Aaron Waldron

[banditwing]

Originally posted by cabbynate
Banditwing:
I use the Dynamite drivers and like them very much. Size: .50, 3/32" and 1/16". You will also need 2mm and a 2.5mm.

What screws are the 2mm and 2.5mm for?

What do you guys think of the Duratrax drivers?

Thanks

[Stryder_01]

I've run my Sport ARR for about 1/2 gallon so I'm sure the diff is completely broken in (it no longer loosens after driving). Until now I've always had it completely locked down but I have a really bad on-power push problem and I'm wonder if loosening it would help. Can I safely do this without melting anything? And does the diff still function properly when it's so tight?

Thanks for the help.

PS: I confess I havent read this entire thread, but believe me I've got a good start on it.

[fly boygt]

Hey guys , ya the drake kit is the top of the line as said, i got mine through my local shop for $289.99, and am waiting on a motor right now, what tires should i use for a blue groove track?
:)

[rcdestroyer]

losifreak, i am also racing the saturday series, what tires do u recomend for the two tracks we are running on, The Dirt, And Pro-Line? thanx

[rcboy618]

i know aaron's answer for this one! its going to be panter's step pins, med-soft or soft.

good job at the shoot out. i think i couldve done better if i bought new tires for my main, and the choke i had at the start didnt really help either. oh well, theres always next time. maybe once i get my GT i will be even faster, the losi is way too twitchy for me. maybe a more planted truck is what i need. we'll see. i might beable to make it to the sat. series if i get my gt in time or my 1/8 piston and sleeve squeezed.

[losifreak2004]

Chow - Yeah, the Losi truck is a little twitchy for tracks like Hot Rod, but I like them that way for Pro-Line and Hemet....if it has too much steering, just change the glow plug and lean it out....

Thanks for the kind words! I had a really good weekend in gas truck. Electric not so good, but it didn't really matter.

destroyer - rcboy got it right! HAHA. Last time I ran Panthers at Pro-Line, I was 13 seconds faster than I was with Losi Step Pins. Med-Soft will be fine for Pro-Line, and we will have tires on hand if you can't get them ahead of time.

flyboy - Panther Micro-Ribs or Micro-Burners and Switches or Wookies. If you want to use Losi tires, the 8-rib front and either Taper Pins or T-2000's.

Stryder - Yes, you can loosen it. Look back through the last couple pages for the posts I made about checking the diff.

banditwing - I'm not sure what he meant by the two metric sizes....

Tools follow any other component...you get what you pay for. I've never heard anything about Duratrax tools, but if they look good, they're worth a shot!

Aaron Waldron

[Nutter]

Personally I swear by Hudy tools.. they're engineered as beautifully as my Losi's are - a prefect match. :p :D:cool:

I can't thiiiink of any 2mm or 2.5mm screws on the XXX-NT right now.. *checks*.. aha! The engine-mount screws are of course 2mm. :) I don't think any are 2.5mm however.

Aaron: Contrats on your run!


-Nutter

[FastEddy]

Im looking for 21,22,23,24 tooth clutch bells for a Losi XXXNT
Any clues?

[losifreak2004]

Nutter - Thanks dude!

If you're looking for perfectly engineered tools to match your Losi car, check these out http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/2002prods/tools.htm

Personally, I love the orange MIP wrenches, but I haven't used the Losi ones yet.

FastEddy - Robinson Racing Products (RRP) is the only place I can think of with clutch bells that size. But before you go out and drop the $$$ to buy them (they're not nearly as cheap as electric pinions!) consider that there are very few .12 engines that can pull any higher than a 20 or 21 in this truck, and that territory is reserved for engines such as the Ofna/Picco 7 Port Outlaw .12, and the RB 5 Port Outlaw .12, neither of which are ROAR legal.

If you are looking for more speed, try a 17 tooth clutch bell. This will allow the engine to rev higher, and also faster, and the truck will move more quickly. The only time anything larger than an 18 is used on a race track is on a slippery surface or any other time bottom-end grunt is not needed and a smoother midrange is needed.

Aaron Waldron

[XXXJohnny]

I am running a 20t with a RB .12. Why would you not go over 18t? what is the stock gear that came on the xxxnt?

[jdm3849]

I believe 18t is the stock clutch size.


I am going to be buying some better tools, so if I buy a 1/16,3/32,.050 size wrenches I will be able to take apart my car with nothing else?

[banditwing]

Im looking to put my Masher 2k's tires on my Sport. I'm going to need to get a smaller clutch bell, but what size? I'm looking for it to give equal performance to the 18t with stock tires.

Thanks.

[jdm3849]

I would say go down 1 to 2 teeth on the clutch, It dosnt look that great to have masher 2k's on a ST but it would be perfect for bashing. If you still have the standard servo's you might want to upgrade because those servo's wont turn the mashers fast or far because they are so weak.

I have a hitec 645mg with 133oz of torque that was awesome in my pede,but im going to wait to put it in the X-NT until I have a good reciever pack.

[losifreak2004]

XXXJohnny - jdm was right, stock is an 18.

Granted, I have never driven my trucks anywhere but the track, but I've been on 180' long straightaways before, and with a 19 and a ported race motor, the truck was not able to rev nearly high enough to compensate for the lower gear ratio. A 20 is simply too tall without a very powerful motor.

Banditwing - A 17 should be just fine.

Aaron Waldron

[Dnmeistr]

Originally posted by jdm3849
I am going to be buying some better tools, so if I buy a 1/16,3/32,.050 size wrenches I will be able to take apart my car with nothing else?

If you have the mach .15 then you will also need snap ring pliers to make it easier getting the snap ring off that holds the clutch bell on.

Dnmeistr

[FastEddy]

Help please,
As stated in an earlier post im looking for clutch bells with more teeth.
To clarify, I’m running my XXXNT-DA in the Nitro Truck Paved Oval Class.

The truck kicks some major butt. I am using a 20T with an OS CV-R .12.
I have the need for speed on some of the larger tracks. I have to push the engine way to far to keep up with the Associated trucks that have more gear than I do.

I have been unable to find any larger bells from Losi or on the aftermarket.
At this time the only option I have is to convert my flywheel and clutch bell assembly to an Associated. In my eyes this is Blasphemy. The idea is to beat the long raining champions with their Associated trucks, not convert my Losi into one.

Any ideas or help would be appreciated.

[Dnmeistr]

check to see if anyone makes a larger spur gear.

Dnmeistr

[KEVIN-RTR]

anybody else get frustrated when you have to order parts online and nobody bothers to tell you its out of stock and you spend 5 days waiting just find out that nothings been sent?

aaarrrgggg !!!!!!!!!!!!!

i had to call myself to find out ... i hate that ... so, who's the best online to order from ... considering service, price, inventory, and all ... i think i have to vote www.stormerhobbies.com ... who else is there?

DOWNTIME SUCKS !!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOCAL HOBBY SHOPS IN DENVER SUCK TOO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Dnmeistr]

I do not know if there are the best but I do know they are cheaper than both stormer and horizon which both charge suggested retail on losi stough.
http://www.rlhobbies.com

Dnmeistr

[rcboy618]

haha, real funny aaron. i still dont remember saying that at all. sometimes greg like to put words in my mouth. you should try the glow plug change when your truck gets loose, you might be in the A next time! ;) do you still have the same screen name for aim?

what do you guys think about me selling my drake ed. w/ trinity hop ups, 5 sets of springs, and 7 sets of tires for $280 PLUS my cv which has alot of compression? some guy wants it for that much...i dont know if i should do it though.

[XXXTNovakOrion]

Congrats at HRH Aaron.

I think im gonna miss this weekend at proline for racing that is...i live in Banning so i'll prob just cruise down on a skateboard or something and hang out. Good Luck Saturday though.

Eddie

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by jdm3849
I believe 18t is the stock clutch size.


I am going to be buying some better tools, so if I buy a 1/16,3/32,.050 size wrenches I will be able to take apart my car with nothing else?

I havn't had any tools other than the trinity ones but I have no desire too. These tools are great.

Ive heard some people talking about changing the glow plug when there truck gets loose. I have never heard this from all the time I have been in RC. Am I reading it wrong or have I just never heard of this before:confused:

[losifreak2004]

Dnmeistr - A larger spur gear would be opposite of what FastEddy is trying to achieve.

FastEddy - I've only seen a 20 tooth before. I really don't have any ideas about higher gearing at the moment, but I'll think of something...

Chow - $300 would be a fair deal. Let people talk to down from $340 or so, and you'll be good to go.

The only reason my trucks are ever loose is because I tend to be a little trigger happy....can I change my fingernail? HAHA! Greg and Geoff and I were laughing HYSTERICALLY on Saturday at Perris over that.

AIM screenname is Lindsays Coconut

Eddie - Thanks! Sorry to hear you won't be racing! Make sure you find me if you're there!

Got Speed - I knew someone was going to ask about that.....if you knew the clowns that started that inside joke (me included) you'd know exactly what rcboy was talking about.

Changing the glow plug will do nothing to change the handling of your car.

Aaron Waldron

[Got Speed]

Oh ok. LOL. I couldn't think of any way it possibly could change the handling.:p But I wasn't sure, so!:eek: :p :o

[losifreak2004]

No no no, just an innocent joke.

Leaning it out...on the other hand.....JUST KIDDING!

Aaron Waldron

[DsWright]

Im having racing withdrawl=)

Only race i could make in last 3 weeks was rained out=(

Going on vacation tomarrow and missing 2 races on sat and sun=(

gotta wait till the 11th to get a chance to race again!!!!

on the other hand, friends+beer+canoes+water = fun:D

Have fun guys and i'll catch up when i get back=)

[losifreak2004]

HAHA, this forums moves A LOT. Catching up SUCKS.

Have fun!

Aaron Waldron

[banditwing]

I can't get my engine started!!!!!

Please help. I bought a Sport ARR yesterday, Installed all the radio gear last night and today I am trying to break it in.

I just can't get the engine started at all. I put the needle's to 2.5 turns out from when it bottomed out for the highspeed and 4 turns out from when it bottomed out for the low speed. The idle limit screw is set so that the carb is about 1mm open when fully "closed".

I have the dynamite locking glow driver, charged it overnight for 15 hours, the needle is in the green. Primed the carbourator, there is trinity monster horsepower fuel in the tank. My radio is on, the throttle slightly cracked. I am giving nice sharp pulls, nothing is going. Occasionally it will get hydro locked (after many unsucsessful pulls) and then I take the glow plug out and drain it. I have already changed the glow plug too/ (Mc9), but I will try the Mach one too.

To me it seems like I am doing everything right, whats wrong and why can't I get my engine to start?

Note: I haven't even been able to start the engine to begin break in.:(

Please help.

Thanks

[jcnmt]

you might not be getting gas to the carb.this is the problem i had on my gt.just blow some gas to the carb and try again.caution DO NOT SWALLOW!!!

[banditwing]

I already did that. But thanks anyway.

I took a look at the glow starter and it was all black. I cleaned it out with some sandpaper and an eraser. I also got a fresh glow plug. Now it doesn't even glow. The needle is in the red, so it's charging now. I think the reason why it dischrged so quickly is that I left it on the glow plug for quite a while while I was trying to start it.

But anyway before, The glow starter was charged and I got the engine started for about 2-3 seconds, then it stalled. I tried richening and leaning the mixture to even get it to run at all. Didn't work. I mostly adjusted the high speed, but I only tried adjusting the low speed once or twice. I just couldn't get it to stay running for more than a couple seconds. And when I gassed it it stalled too.

Any advice?

Thanks

[losifreak2004]

Well, something I just read in your post...you said you were using an MC9, which is a cold plug. Try the MC59 or OS 8, which are both hot plugs.

Try heating up the engine case with a hairdryer, then start the engine. To make sure you have fuel in the carb, put your finger over the stinger and pull the cord a few times (never put your mouth on the pressure line!). If neither of these works, try leaning out both needles in equal increments until the engine starts.

If none of this works, come back and tell me!

Aaron Waldron

[KEVIN-RTR]

i definately had better results with the MC59 ... and i also ditched the dynanite chargable igniter ... i got a 6 volt with aligator clips ... good charge and last a lot longer ... i was draining my igniter really quick with i first started ... better yet ... get a starter box ... you will love it

[banditwing]

Eventually I plan on buying a starter box, but right now I can't because I just blew my $$ on the ARR and accesories. I also need to get another radio system and a better servo and other things, before a starter box, but believe me, a starter box is on my list.;)

Well My dynamite glow driver has about 8 more hours to charge....

Ok, I will try my Mach plug again. And if that doesn't work, then I'll use my MC59.

[Dnmeistr]

This little procedure has made starting the engine alot easier for me. With the tx on turn the switch on car off, then open throttle servo a little, when engine starts turn the switch back on. It is easier than trying to hold the trigger.

Dnmeistr

[banditwing]

Wow, nitro's are awsome. Thanks for the help guys I got it started. Went through about 4 or 5 tanks for break it, gradually leaning it out. Now the thing is crazy fast compared to my rusty, and I bet I could tune quite a bit more speed out of it too!!!!:eek: :D

Well It's not even the second full day I had it and there are already some traxxas parts on there.:o I went jumping and the thing at the end of the shock that screws onto the shock shaft (I totally forgot the name for it) stripped out (or came out I should say) and I lost a spring retainer and the spring. I found the spring since it is bright orange, but the retainer is lost for good. No prob- replace it with my rustler parts.

I think I stripped something in the diff. My slipper is 5 turns out, but the diff is loose. I can't tighten the diff anymore, and it is not close to how tight it is when I broke it in. It has a gritty feeling too (allready and not even 500cc's through it!!:mad: )

Everything works fine, but it is gritty. What do I need to replace and/or fix/ clean in my tranny???

Thanks

[FastFreddy]

Check the little mini-4-40 locknut in the left outdrive. It is probably stripped. I did it twice before calling Bill at Losi. He gave me the lowdown on how to set up diff w/o destroying the nut.

[banditwing]

Oh an one more thing. If I do need to rebuild my diff, what can I use instead of losi diff lube for the time being, as I have no losi diff lube.

I have traxxas grease, silicone oil, 3 in 1 oil, and probly some other stuff.:confused:

Thanks

[banditwing]

hmm, ok I will do that, I posted like at exactly the same time.

Let's see if traxxas locknuts fit......


Thanks FF

[FastFreddy]

PS. you probably melted the diff if you ran it at all with the nut stripped. I hit the gas twice on mine before realizing the problem and mine was toast. I have the Silicon Nitride diff balls coming so I will wait to rebuild.

[banditwing]

Originally posted by FastFreddy
Check the little mini-4-40 locknut in the left outdrive. It is probably stripped. I did it twice before calling Bill at Losi. He gave me the lowdown on how to set up diff w/o destroying the nut.

Oh and may I ask what is the lowdown on tightening diffs please?:D

Thanks

[FastFreddy]

I bought a pack of 'em from Trinity. They were reasonable and seemed harder than the stock ones. They are a pretty purple color, too! Not that you will ever see it:)

[FastFreddy]

Pretty much follow the directions Losi gives BUT realize this. It is not like screwing a bolt into a hole in a piece of wood. You would tighten it until snug and then go a turn or two further until it is "tight" by your standards. INSTEAD you do the diff test...Tighten the slipper down all the way until spring bottoms out, hold spur and rt wheel and try to turn left wheel forwards. If it doesn't turn with a good deal of force then it is alright for now. IF IT TURNS and you still have flesh on the finger holding the spur gear then lock the screw and right outdrive with a hex key and turn the left wheel backwards 1/8 of a turn ONLY. Here is where I goofed twice. I turned the wheel back until I felt it get "tight". WRONG!!! Check it again after 1/8 of a turn. If not correct go another 1/8. There is a spring in there that once it fully compresses this lock nut is DESIGNED to strip to protect the internals. Once you get the diff to where it does not slip you will need to check it with every tank for the first few tanks until the diff has fully broken-in. I think he said to check it 4 times with first two tanks, then twice with next two tanks. Also you will need to set the slipper after the diff. Turn it out three turns from fully compressed and check it. It should slip for the first 1.5-2.5 feet when you give the truck full throttle. He told me that if I couldn't tell when it was slipping to loosen it to the point at which it was OBVIOUSLY slipping and tighten from there until in that range. He also told me an interesting bit about how those alloy gears are extremely less efficient than the stock molded ones and should not be used. The molded ones have a better tolerance and are self-lubricating for longer life. We were on the phone for like 25 minutes...heck of a nice guy and very knowledgeable.

Sorry so long but you asked for it:D

[banditwing]

Thank you so much FF. I just kept torquing until it felt tight. So I guess I should pick up some balls lol, some locknuts, and whatever else is stripped messed up inside my diff when I got to the LHS.

Yeah the last run I went for my diff was slipping sooo much and it was really gritty. (I couldn't tighten it down anymore, the nut is stripped).:eek:

So far in my first day of running I broke these parts (And possibly more)

Diff nut
Diff balls (I think)
Spring retainer
Shock end

Now to take apart the tranny and clean the truck..........

[FastFreddy]

Well, most likely you will need :
A-2909
A-2925
A-2927(Bill recommended replacing them together)
Maybe A-2903(if they are badly scored)
Maybe A-6951(If they look damaged) or the ones I got on eBay,
search for "BEST DIFF BALLS--Grade 3--Losi Associated HPI
Item # 1753577740"
A-5023

I think this is the one hurdle I had to overcome with this new truck. All else has gone remarkably well compared to my Nitro MT:rolleyes:

[FastFreddy]

Don't use anything other than ball diff grease. It is a special formulation that is not too slippy so that diff can be adjusted properly. I use Assoc diff lube and Assoc black grease for the thrust bearings.



Originally posted by banditwing
Oh an one more thing. If I do need to rebuild my diff, what can I use instead of losi diff lube for the time being, as I have no losi diff lube.

I have traxxas grease, silicone oil, 3 in 1 oil, and probly some other stuff.:confused:

Thanks

[jdm3849]

FF, do you ever have your AIM on?

Ok here we go.....
I do that differential check thing and the diff. seems to be tight, but when I hold the back of the truck off of the ground and spin the right wheel forward,the left wheel also spins the same direction. I am not going to try and run my truck until it is confirmed that it is safe to run. BTW, I just got a MIP temp guage and some fuel tubing (I also bought a splash guard for the guage but I found out it has one:mad: ). What is a good temp for my mach .15 to run at? I put the sensor loop on the bottom fin of the head on the opposite side of the exhaust,is that right?

-thanks

[banditwing]

jdm- I am pretty sure that is right. Try holding the spur, then twist one wheel. The other should go in the opposite direction, but be hard to move. If not then someone was a bit lazy when they were assembling their diff.......lol

REREAD what Fast freddy said, and wait for someone else to comment, because I might be wrong....:eek:

[FastFreddy]

If you did the diff check then all should be well and good. My wheels did the same thing when the diff was tight. I can't tell you about the temp guage...I use an infrared gun. I can't find ideal running temp right now so someone else will have to chime in.

I only use the AIM with one friend. I just got it recently, I didn't grow up with it like the younger guys, so I do not use it much. I sign it off when I'm not talking to him. I guess I should start it up when I am at the box but I usually forget about it.

[jdm3849]

thanks for the reply's, but I couldnt help myself to run it before you replied:D . It was odd, before I ran it the wheels would spin the same way, but after I got done running it the spin opposite:confused: > But the diff. is really! tight, I cant make it budge. My temp guage was reading at a tops of 180 degree's, I think I need to lean out the low end because it isnt really snappy off the line, but still impressive. And I want some of those spare locknuts because I have a feeling I am going to strip more. What is the part number for that bag of 10? And whats the bag called, like 10 4-40 trinity aluminum locknuts....

thanks guys, I really appreciate it.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by jdm3849
FF, do you ever have your AIM on?

Ok here we go.....
I do that differential check thing and the diff. seems to be tight, but when I hold the back of the truck off of the ground and spin the right wheel forward,the left wheel also spins the same direction. I am not going to try and run my truck until it is confirmed that it is safe to run. BTW, I just got a MIP temp guage and some fuel tubing (I also bought a splash guard for the guage but I found out it has one:mad: ). What is a good temp for my mach .15 to run at? I put the sensor loop on the bottom fin of the head on the opposite side of the exhaust,is that right?

-thanks

Well there isn't an ideal temperature for engines because condions change all the time. But in your manual there should be a good place to start it at.

If you do the test Fast Freddy said it should be fine. But to answer your question, if you hold the spur gear still then turn one of the wheels the other one will turn in the opposite direction.

Yes you should put the sensor loop through the bottom fin on the opposite side of the exuast. Or you can put it right under the fin, but I prefer the first way.

[drdirt]

banditwing that is so funny. please forgive me for chuckling because I did the same thing when I crasched mine on the first race day at englishtown, nj. I stole the spring retainer off my tower hobies piece of *&#&*$ ...........LOL Jim:p

[drdirt]

sorry....spellchecker wasn't home......hehehe

[FastFreddy]

Trinity nuts are EVO 143, pack of eight.
temp sounds a little low. I think average is 200-280 F. Lean it out but make sure you see smoke when driving. As long as the spring in the diff does not fully compress you should not strip your nuts:D Check diff often and only turn wheel 1/8 of a turn at a time until diff stops slipping. FF



Originally posted by jdm3849
thanks for the reply's, but I couldnt help myself to run it before you replied:D . It was odd, before I ran it the wheels would spin the same way, but after I got done running it the spin opposite:confused: > But the diff. is really! tight, I cant make it budge. My temp guage was reading at a tops of 180 degree's, I think I need to lean out the low end because it isnt really snappy off the line, but still impressive. And I want some of those spare locknuts because I have a feeling I am going to strip more. What is the part number for that bag of 10? And whats the bag called, like 10 4-40 trinity aluminum locknuts....

thanks guys, I really appreciate it.

[banditwing]

Something is weird now. Or should I say lucky?:confused:

I dissasembled my diff (while cleaning the truck, it was a MESS!!!) and now everything looks fine. The diff gear is fine, so are the rings, the balls, everything. I can even screw the screw into that locknut with no prob, and it doesn't feel like it is slipping or stripping at all.

Should I reassemble my diff (I don't have any lube, but I think there is some still on there) and see if it slips?

Tommorow I should be over my friends and can get my hands on some associated diff lube and black grease. I think I can use that to relube it.

Otherwise I will have to wait to go to the LHS. But right now my diff seems fine. :confused:

[dkj-M3]

replace the screw & locknut, when I stripped my 1st one, it didn't seem like it was stripped, but it was.

[FastFreddy]

Originally posted by dkj-M3
replace the screw & locknut, when I stripped my 1st one, it didn't seem like it was stripped, but it was.

I agree...the screw might be held in by the nylon of the locknut. That's how I melted my diff on saturday, I thought it was tight too!

[losifreak2004]

Good stuff guys!

Aaron Waldron

[FastFreddy]

Thank you! FF



Originally posted by losifreak2004
Good stuff guys!

Aaron Waldron

[banditwing]

So here is what I am going to pick up

2910- Sport diff hardware (2)
3065- Clear diff grease
3066- Assembly grease/ thrust bearing grease
6306- Mini locknuts

I also need a throttle overide spring because My ARR didn't have one. I substituted a ball point pen spring for it on the brake linkage, but I think it is too soft. I have the two short springs on the throttle linkage. I know the throttle overide should be on the throttle linkage, but the pen spring was too soft for the job. (Hey it works with the two short springs on there!:D )
All I need is the spring, but you have to buy all the linkages together for $11. Grrrrrr:mad:

[Scrad]

You can just get the eyelet and the spring. I'm going to my LHS and I'll look up the part number for you. It's from the NXT series, but it's still the same and the NT.

[banditwing]

I don't mean the throttle return spring. Im talking about the one that actaully is on the linkage.

[FastFreddy]

Bandit, Your LHS should have a spring that will work there even if it is from another kit. If not, I got a couple at the Home Depot in their hardware section. FF

BTW, Associated lube is supposed to do a better job from what I've read.

[losifreak2004]

I've been racing for eight years...I've never heard of AE grease being better than Losi grease...HAHA just playing with you guys.

Some people try something new, put a diff together with something different, and they don't let it slip, and think that it was the gift from the RC gods. You can build a diff with stock parts, and have it last for GALLONS.

That said, AE lube won't be necessarily "worse" but it's not any better.

Aaron Waldron

[banditwing]

Thanks guys.

I found out that the only Hobby shop by me that carriers the parts is the not so L LHS.

Looks like I will order off of Horizon hobby. My order is like $18 bucks without shipping so I will get priority or first class. (Which is only $3, but is it faster than the UPS ground ($7)???).

Or maybe stormer... thanks for the help.

[rc10tc3drivr]

has anyone tried to take apart the trinity reciever pack and put it back together so it will fit in the native battery box would that mess it up if i did that then just put some heat shrink around it

[Racin Rev]

I am thinking about a carb restrictor. I have more carb than ability and when I bought all the magazines were turning their noses up at barrel carbs, so, you guessed it, I got a slide. (then they changed their tune) :mad: The track where i race is technical but the straights are not very long, I won't miss the speed that much.

What I am wondering about is tuning. I would guess that the high end would be way rich with the restrictor is this true? what about the low end/ idle etc. good to know what i am up against before making the switch.

[Scrad]

I run a carb restrictor in my CV-R. I actually think it's faster with the restictor. The top speed seems the same, you just don't have the masisive bottom end torque. If your track is small or slippery look into getting one. As for being richer and stuff, just re adjust your carb settings. I get a little more run time too with it.

[losifreak2004]

rc10tc3drivr - I've done it before, you just need a good soldering iron, battery bars and solder.

Rev - It won't be much different, but you'll definitely have to lean it out about 2 hours or so. Just give yourself plenty of time before the races to tune again, and you'll be fine.

Scrad - It won't really affect top end, just smooth out bottom end, just like you said.

Aaron Waldron

[FastFreddy]

Originally posted by ???

Time for a rebuild.:( Don't sweat it though, it's not that hard.
Just use Associated Black grease in the thrust bearings. The Losi white is thin and wears away fast. I also use Associated Stealth Diff lub in my diff gear bearings. I just like it more than the Losi stuff.:)
???

This was one of the posts I read that influenced my answer above:) It appears to be opinion but it was something I had heard before so I adopted it and bought the Assoc stuff for myself:D

[losifreak2004]

I've been racing for eight years...I've never heard of AE grease being better than Losi grease...HAHA just playing with you guys.

Some people try something new, put a diff together with something different, and they don't let it slip, and think that it was the gift from the RC gods. You can build a diff with stock parts, and have it last for GALLONS.

That said, AE lube won't be necessarily "worse" but it's not any better.


This board is full of those people....HAHA

Aaron Waldron

[Racin Rev]

Thanks scrad and Aaron, that is what i needed to know. I would have thought more than 2 hours. any significant change to the low speed mixture?

I suspected this required a practice session rather than a quick tune job before the race, thanks for confirming that.

[ronvdp]

Does anyone here know how to setup the suspension for more forward bite? I'm having some trouble getting the front tires to grip when turning and remember reading something about it here but can't find it. Thanks for any advice.

[losifreak2004]

Racin Rev - It's not a dramatic change, but not something I would leave until warm-up to try and figure out. The bottom end may only be off a click or two.

ron - There's many things you can do. Moving the shock out on the arm, lowering the front ride height, raising the rear ride height, use more anti-squat, lengthening the front camber link, shortening the rear camber link, taking out toe-in, standing the front tires up, take out negative camber in the rear.

None of that will change your shock setup. If you are happy with the way your truck jumps and handles rough sections, try those tips.

Aaron Waldron

[ronvdp]

Thanks Aaron, I was hoping you would get to my question as I think it was you who wrote about it somewhere else in the thread. Can you tell me a little more about the "antisquat" and how you adjust it? Thanks!

Ron

[purplerides]

the difference i find with AE lube is it isn't as runny as losi , i built a diff with losi lube and left it on the bench overnight and the next day the lube had dripped out and had a little puddle , well not really a puddle but a spot were the lube ran out onto the bench , never had that happen with AE lube it stays in the diff. were it's supposed to be.

and i also found after inspecting the diff. after a month or so of running that the AE lube was still in diff. were the diff. with losi lube was much dryer.

[tarvymoto]

Gary , how's it going? I'm still going to try and make it to Family before the summer is over.

Aaron , I got a pair of Panther Steps in the mail today and am very pleased. The carcass feels very sturdy so I think the new tires are shipping (the place where I bought them said they "just got them in"). Also they have absolutely no flashing to trim off and they fit Losi rims just as well as Losi rubber does.very impresive!!! Now it's time for the perfomance test.

Travis

[tarvymoto]

Gary , how's it going? I'm still going to try and make it to Family before the summer is over.

Aaron , I got a pair of Panther Steps in the mail today and am very pleased. The carcass feels very sturdy so I think the new tires are shipping (the place where I bought them said they "just got them in"). Also they have absolutely no flashing to trim off and they fit Losi rims just as well as Losi rubber does.very impresive!!! Now it's time for the perfomance test.

Travis

I forgot to add that the stock foams are not that great so I will not be using them.

[Juice]

Guys there has been a lot of Diff talk lately! How to build them ect...ect....Now how many people use the A.E diff spring and does it hold a setting better than the losi beveled washers? I myself have a time with the Losi diff-- and looking for better ways to keep from smoking them. Looks like the A.E lube is the way to go as I have noticed the Losi lube is thin and runny! I already use A.E black grease for the thrust washer!! ANY tips and tricks will be great:D :D

[Nutter]

I use the bevelled washers in all of my Losi diffs, and always have (I've been using Losi's since the JRx2), I don't really have a problem with them.. the reason I think that Losi should go with a diff spring for all its vehicles though is because of newbies.

I've never used the AE grease's or diff spring, mostly because I don't want anything from AE touching my Losi. :p hehe.. and Losi make a diff spring too now anyway (it comes with the XXX-NT Sport RTR).


-Nutter

[Juice]

Cool, I didnt know that about the Losi spring! I think I will try that for a change.

[jdm3849]

I had a time of my life running my car this morning, I slept over at my friends house and when we awoke we went to the local construction site and were bombing down the hills, The best part was jumping, I never realized how good ST's jump. Way better than my friends P10M. There were lots of sand hills and i would get going about 35mph and hit them, The landings were soft even if i landed upside down because there was more big piles of sand behind it. I also jump off a jump into the grass and I rolled 8 times and kept on going. I ran into some cement chunks at the site, I cant believe it stood up to all the abuse I dished out. The highest temp. my guage read was 200 degrees after 2 tanks.
The filter part on the air filter has some dirt on it, do I need to clean it? Or should I just clean that pre-filter. How do I clean both of them? BTW, I have no air filter oil.

[losifreak2004]

Ron - Me? Post something technical and confusing? NEVER!

Anti-squat is the angle between the rear inner hinge pins and the ground. The stock pivot block included with all Losi vehicles provides two degrees of anti-squat. Also in the bag with the pivot block are two black spacers, with rectangular tabs on them. Placing these on the screws under the front of the pivot block will yield four degrees of anti-squat; placing them on the rear screws will yield zero degrees anti-squat.

Less anti-squat will increase side-bite, and the truck will stay lower over jumps. More anti-squat will increase foward bite, decrease sidebite, and the truck will jump higher. It will also handle rough sections of the track better.

Lately, I've been instructed by Mr. Adam Drake to try running three degrees of anti-squat, achieved by placing one of the thin gold washers (.060") included with the kit, on each screw under the front of the pivot block. However, when the track is holding moisture well, and there is more traction, I've been going back to the stock two degrees.

I have been using the RTR spring lately, but never ANYTHING other than the Losi lube. I've never had a diff fail because of the lube.

Travis - Yeah, we're working on the foam. You think you're impressed now..wait until you run them :-D

jdm - I would replace the filter if it has dirt on it. Motorcycles shops sell bottles of foam filter oil for the same price you can buy a tiny bottle of AE stuff....look for Maxima FFT (Foam Filter Treatment).

Aaron Waldron

[FastFreddy]

LOL...I was wondering if I should switch to the washers :rolleyes:
The part number to get the Losi spring is A-2910.



Originally posted by Juice
Cool, I didnt know that about the Losi spring! I think I will try that for a change.

[losifreak2004]

The spring gives the diff more of a sweet spot. You don't have to be so perfect on the line that borders slipping and too tight.

Aaron Waldron

[Nutter]

Hey just wondering if anyone here's using that new Losi rear exhaust manifold? It's supposed to fit better than the Trinity one (if I remember correctly, some of you guys were bending your Trinity manifolds to fit better).

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=88900


-Nutter

[Epinephrine]

Sup all. I will be your newist member in about 4 days. Im getting the Losi XXX-NT Sport ARR, JR XR3 radio, replacement front arms, rear arms, and rear bulkhead, Dynamite nitro starter kit, fuel filter, Losi dish rims with Pro-Line Road Hawg tires, and some other stuff I cant think of. Cya in a few!

[Nutter]

Hey Epin, congrats on your decission & welcome to the XXX-NT family. :p
That sounds like it'll be a good setup to start with, from there you can collect more spares as you go, but those will keep you running for a while atleast. :) If you can afford it, have a look into the Trinity blue aluminium front & rear bulkheads as they add a lot of durability to the truck, also make sure that the front & rear arms that you buy are in the standard Losi plastic, not the RTR plastic (the standard plastic's harder to break apparently). Another part that you may need is a spare rear shock tower as they do break sometimes after a hard belly-up landing.

Enjoy! :D And remember we're here to help with anything that comes up.. there's some veeery knowledgable people here.


-Nutter

[jdm3849]

Ok, I went to my lhs today and got team associated pre-filter oil, How should I clean my pre-filter now? Can I clean the normal filter, not the pre-filter? BTW, it says the oil is for the rc10gt.

[Epinephrine]

Thanks for the warm welcome! Yes I made sure it was standard Losi plastic. I had heard about the softer RTR arms in the chat room. How much are those Trinity bulk heads? This may sound silly but where are the bulkheads on the XXXNT and what do they do lol? As I told you I ordered a rear bulk head and havent even seen it. Also, I was thinking in time of getting Lunsford Ti Turnbukles after I bend or break the steel ones, and also replacing the stock ball cups with RPM ones. I hear there harder to misshape in a crash, they worth the extra doah? It dosent matter much but I was wondering if the throttle and brake lincage is assembled in the ARR or if Losi leaves you to do it since they dont know if you have a radio with EPA's? LOL I probably just answered my own question. Cya!

[Nutter]

The bulkheads are the things that hold the front & rear arms to the chassis, and they're a pain to replace (which is why I say get them in aluminium.. much easier to replace a broken arm than a broken bulkhead).
Lunsford Ti turnbuckles are a good idea, but from the sound of the RTR turnbuckles, you probably won't need them for a while.
RPM ballcups are good, but I honestly don't have any problems with Losi ballcups (I do replace them fairly often though, especially after a crash). It'd be a good idea to get captured rod ends for the inside ends of the rear turnbuckles though, as they're a HUGE pain to put back on if they pop off (and of course they do this quite frequently, at the worst possible times).
I have no idea about the throttle/brake linkage in the ARR, but I'd think it would be mostly assembled, just a matter of putting the correct adapter for the servo you use into the servo horn.. never know though. ;)


-Nutter

[Epinephrine]

Im sorry but do you have any pictures of the captured rod ends? Im trying to visualise it but it isnt working. Oh and by chance do you ever goto the chat room? Maybe you could teach me more about the wonderful world of nitro! :D Cya!

[OmegaTrac]

Hey,
Welcome to the board Epine. You will not be disappointed with your purchase.

[Epinephrine]

Thanks for the welcome Omega!

Nutter- What companies besides Traxxas make captured shock ends and where are the Aluminum bulkheads on Trinities website. I have looked and looked and have yet to find.

[Got Speed]

Someone on here said they got there XXX-NT ADE for $289 from thier LHS. Whoever that was please tell me what the name and internet address the LHS is. Thanks alot.:)

Does it accept the standard short crank?

BTW if anyone has an engine that I could use for it please LMK!:) Thanks!:)

[FastFreddy]

Originally posted by Epinephrine
Thanks for the welcome Omega!

Nutter- What companies besides Traxxas make captured shock ends and where are the Aluminum bulkheads on Trinities website. I have looked and looked and have yet to find.

Hi Epi! Here (http://teamtrinity.com/accessories/tklist.html) is the link for the Trinity stuff by Kinwald. Dubro (http://www.shopatron.com/index.phtml) might have a nice captured ball end.

[cabbynate]

Losfreak:
Aaron, Thanks for all the help Saturday and for the tires!!!!!!http://www.plauder-smilies.de/yellows/wink3.gif
I was still a little loose in the main though. I ended up 4th over all so I can't complain.
http://www.plauder-smilies.de/yellows/rotaeye.gif
You did well also. Good job!!!
C-YA!!!!!
Nate

[Got Speed]

The NT ADE does accept short cranks dosn't it?

[Scrad]

You can use a short shaft, but you might have to put a smaller spacer behind the flywheel. I have a short shaft CV-R and I had to put that smaller washer in and it fits, but you only get a few threads of the crank, so make sure you put some loctite on it. If you don't have a engine yet get a regular shaft and save some headaches.

[lositeamdriver]

aaron i guess its on to the losi the ae doesnt cut it any more i would catch the field flame out catch up get to thrid flame then i gave up so im on to getting a nt and i sold the mars and getting the m8 agin and a new motor

[Epinephrine]

FastFreddy, thanks for the link. Unless I am blind or they are under a different name, the aluminum bulkheads are not listed under the XXXNT or the XXXT. I guess I will just have to call Trinity and see how much they are.

[FastFreddy]

Originally posted by Epinephrine
FastFreddy, thanks for the link. Unless I am blind or they are under a different name, the aluminum bulkheads are not listed under the XXXNT or the XXXT. I guess I will just have to call Trinity and see how much they are.

I think tk5056 is the rear bulkhead you are looking for.

[Epinephrine]

I found the XXX/XXXT front bulkhead, its $29. Does that fit the NT? And how about a aluminum front and rear suspension brace, that worth the $11 and will it fit the NT?

[Epinephrine]

O ok so the bulkhead on an NT is a pivot plate? Hehe, This just proves how much different a nitro is from electric. Thanks for helping.

[NItro-Smoke]

So if I use the RTR spring instead of the beveled washers, all I need to do is remove the washers and install the spring right! Do I need to add or remove any other washers as I put it back together?? Thanks for the Part # too!:D

[NItro-Smoke]

So if I use the RTR spring instead of the beveled washers, all I need to do is remove the washers and install the spring right! Do I need to add or remove any other washers as I put it back together?? Thanks for the Part # too!:D

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Scrad
You can use a short shaft, but you might have to put a smaller spacer behind the flywheel. I have a short shaft CV-R and I had to put that smaller washer in and it fits, but you only get a few threads of the crank, so make sure you put some loctite on it. If you don't have a engine yet get a regular shaft and save some headaches.

Well Im getting a .12 CV short shaft in a trade that has never been run. Will it work well enough or will I seriously regret it? What kind of headaches?

Also: Somebody said that they got their Adam Drake Ed for $280 or $290 at thier LHS. Could you please tell me the name and phone number or the name and city of the hobby store?

Thanks alot

:)

[rcdestroyer]

i have the os .12 cv in my xxxnt. it works really well. it is very controllable and powerfull

[FastFreddy]

Originally posted by NItro-Smoke
So if I use the RTR spring instead of the beveled washers, all I need to do is remove the washers and install the spring right! Do I need to add or remove any other washers as I put it back together?? Thanks for the Part # too!:D


Check out the sport instruction manuals picture here (http://www.teamlosi.com/ntsport/xxxntsport_index.htm) to see a diagram of how it goes together. I am not familiar with the way the bev washers went together.

[NItro-Smoke]

Fastfreddy, great help!!:D

[Nutter]

Epin: actually it's called the pivot block on both the XXXT and XXX-NT, the front bulkhead is the piece the camber links & front shock tower attach to (the entire front end of the XXXT and XXX-NT are identical).
All of the Trinity parts for the XXX-NT are under the 'Team Kinwald' brand, so if you're looking for them, don't look under Trinity. Stormer Hobbies has them all btw (http://www.stormerhobbies.com).

Got Speed: I remember that too (I'm the one who was :eek: & asked for the name & number to his LHS).. I'll have a look for it.


-Nutter

[FastFreddy]

Hey...Is this what you were looking for???
I threw a link onto his username in case you want to email him.


Originally posted by Fly BoyGT (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/member.php?s=&action=mailform&userid=18338)
Hey guys , ya the drake kit is the top of the line as said, i got mine through my local shop for $289.99, and am waiting on a motor right now, what tires should i use for a blue groove track?
:)

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by rcdestroyer
i have the os .12 cv in my xxxnt. it works really well. it is very controllable and powerfull

Are you using the short shaft?

FastFreddy- Thanks. I hope I can get one from them.

[rcdestroyer]

yes it is the short shaft version

[purplerides]

the trinity front bulkhead/pivot block is part #TK5009 , it fit all xxx series vehicles , the rear pivot block for the XXXNT is # TK5056.

[FastFreddy]

I have never broken one of these...except for the defective HPI Nitro MT rear one before they fixed the mold. Even then it had just started to split apart. Is this just a pretty part or does it really address a reliability issue? How many of you guys that race hardcore have it? TY, FF


Originally posted by purplerides
the trinity front bulkhead/pivot block is part #TK5009 , it fit all xxx series vehicles , the rear pivot block for the XXXNT is # TK5056.

[dkj-M3]

All the guys I race with including myself, at least have the rear trinity pivot block. I race every week & the stock one cracked after about 2 months of racing.

[banditwing]

With the ARR yes you do have to do work. You must remove the chassis upper brace, install the servo with those pesky servo mount thingies, then screw it back on. (About 5-10 minutes of work, more if your slow:p ;) )

You must also assemble the linkages. Not that hard, but I think the instruction manuel is incorrect for the parts that they give you. If you have RCCA, then look at the picture of the Sport in the review, or look at the ADE picture, you can see how it goes together. Right now I have mine with the two springs on the throttle linkage, and a spring from a pen on the brake linkage. (They didn't give me a throttle overide spring (Not the throttle return spring, the one that goes on the linkage).

You must also screw in the throttle servo mounts.

All together I would say a good 30-45 minutes of work if you take your time.

In the first two days I practically took apart almost every screw and piece in that truck. I am now saying that I bought a kit and built it myself, because technically that is what I did.:D

[banditwing]

Here is a pic, but I doubt you can see the springs:http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articles/xnt_sport2.asp

I can't get the pic to show!! How do you post it??

[FastFreddy]

http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/images/articles/losixntsport/2.jpg

You had the address for the page not just the pic.
Here's a couple of linkage pics if that's what you wanted to show?
http://www.teamlosi.com/RTRNT_pics/Radio05.jpg
http://www.teamlosi.com/RTRNT_pics/Radio06.jpg

[banditwing]

Thanks.

Yeah I did not have part #194, so I rigged it a different way now. Let's see how it works.... once I get my spare parts...

[Nutter]

Don't worry if you're not doing what the instructions said to do for the throttle/brake linkage.. I've found that it's one of those 'personal' things on the NT; just about everyone has their own way to connect it up. :p Fuel tubing is a fairly popular replacement for the springs on the throttle linkage (it behaves like a harder spring).


-Nutter

[rcdestroyer]

how did everyone set up their diff belleville washers in their truck? the manual says to put 6 facing 6 like this <<<<<<>>>>>>
there is also a slip of paper that says to put them all the same<<<<<<<<<<<. what is the difference? what is better?

[banditwing]

Delete

[dissymmetry]

I had the same problem when I first got started with my XXX-NT Sport. I stripped out the diff. nut after three tanks. The hobby stores weren't open when I stripped it and I didn't want to wait so I just ground down a 4-40 nut with NO Nylox on it. I've been running on that same nut for about two months now. I got the replacement nuts, but haven't needed to open the bag. Do you check the tightness of the diff each time you run? I've started getting lazy about it since it's gone so long wihtout any problems, but you really should check that before each run.

[Crashbot2001]

GotSpeed, I just finished putting a short shaft OS .12 CZ into my Losi and it went in no problems at all. You shouldn;t have any problems with a short shaft, but as someone else said, if you're buying a new engine, may as well just get the standard shaft.

Good Luck

Crash

[banditwing]

Wow am I an Idiot or what. I just took the wheel off and the place where the pin locks is stripped. I guess I had the nut on too loose. Thank you for the help!:D

[FastFreddy]

Same thing happened to me and I don't know why either. The diff gear and compound gear stripped. I thought the diff had melted. This happened after I ran it a short time with the nut stripped. I am gonna guess it was already like that when you rebuilt but it wasn't clearly visable. I almost missed the damage to the compound gear. I have tried to run the gear's operation through my mind and I can't imagine why they stripped like that. I know you are PO'd but I have heard these troubles with other diffs. It is known as the "learning curve". Keep your chin up:cool: FF

[FastFreddy]

Originally posted by banditwing
Wow am I an Idiot or what. I just took the wheel off and the place where the pin locks is stripped. I guess I had the nut on too loose. Thank you for the help!:D


COOL :cool: I hope that was it for you! Good luck!

[fly boygt]

YA everyone i am the one that got the truck for that price, my shop sells it for 299.99, i got it for 289.99 because i got a deal with the guy that runs it, he owed me big time, so you'll have to pay the 299.99 + shipping, so if you want to know where, let me know.:D

[FastFreddy]

These guyz (http://www.atomichobbies.com/teamlosi_drake.html) have it for $299.99 also.

[banditwing]

Well, it's not the wheel that is stripped. I looked at the wheels and thought that they might be stripped, but that's not the case. I'm watching the outdrives while I hold the spur and one wheel and turn, but it is still "Clicking" and something is slippping. The outdrives are not turning while the wheels aren't, so the wheels aren't stripped.

It might be a gear inside the tranny, but rather than loosing power, wouldn't it jam up from the teeth that were stripped???

My mini locknut is not stripped. I know that for a fact.

If a gear is stripped I will be verrrrrrry maddd. (I only ran it for a half tank on flat ground!!!!!) But I also noticed the clicking slightly while I was setting the diff. When I reassembled my tranny, i put assembly grease over the teeth, and then tried to turn the tranny while it was held together loosly. It felt like there was a slight "jam" at one point, but I inspected all the gears and there was no particles or anything there. I even blew it out with compressed air to be safe. It still continued to be there.

So far I have had quite a bit of problems with my sport that im not too happy about.:(

Please help.

Again.

[FastFreddy]

Originally posted by banditwing

It might be a gear inside the tranny, but rather than loosing power, wouldn't it jam up from the teeth that were stripped???

When I reassembled my tranny, i put assembly grease over the teeth, and then tried to turn the tranny while it was held together loosly. It felt like there was a slight "jam" at one point, but I inspected all the gears and there was no particles or anything there. I even blew it out with compressed air to be safe. It still continued to be there.

So far I have had quite a bit of problems with my sport that im not too happy about.:(

Please help.

Again.

Well sorry to say the diff gear and compound gear are stripped. The diff gear probably will have a "flat spot" on it now. I totally blew mine out when I tried to run on a track with it slipping. Like I said, I don't know why it does this but it must be related to when the diff slipped from the nut being stripped. I haven't ran mine since the rebuild but Iam hoping all will be okay now.
BTW, bandit. The gears are self-lubricating, don't put anything on the gears themselves. Just the diff and thrust areas. Extra grease will only add friction. I would recommend calling Bill at tech services and asking him why the gears would have stripped. I don't know why yet. He did tell me to replace the diff gear AND compound gear when I rebuilt. I thought I had melted the diff, not stripped it, though.
PS. Before you get too ticked off and throw the whole truck in the dumpster, email me and I will pay for shipping it to my house.
:D Just Kidding:D

[ronvdp]

Banditwing

I had the exact same symptoms after stripping the diff nut. I took apart the tranny and didn't notice anything but the