Team Losi XXXNT forum v3.0

[FastFreddy]

Boca Bearings (http://www.bocabearings.com/) sells them. The 4-Pack is $17.95, #BWK43, (.0937x.1875x.0937). They offer Free Shipping in the USA and Canada.

[dissymmetry]

There's a reason why Losi's bearings are so expensive, they are just about the best bearings you can get. Don't just blindly get bearing that are the same size, I don't know if you'll be able to tell the difference between high quality ones and just plain bearings, but there is definitely a difference in how long they last and the amount of drag in them. Just something to consider.

[Scrad]

But the Losi bearings break and fall apart easy. I've went through about 5 of them so far.

[RD Racing]

Doesnt get any better than Boca Bearings.

My Drake Edition came with bearings. Did the standard XXXNT Kit come with bearings?

Roy

[FastFreddy]

Originally posted by RD Racing
Doesnt get any better than Boca Bearings.

My Drake Edition came with bearings. Did the standard XXXNT Kit come with bearings?

Roy

Everywhere but in the steering.

[rcboy618]

the drake ed. has higher versions of the losi bearings, the standard bearings is that weaved seal. the drake ed. bearings are blue seal, they last alot longer and are alot smoother.

[FastFreddy]

Originally posted by dissymmetry
Also, I'm looking for new stuff for these cars, any ideas or anything you've been looking for...
Is there something you've always wanted, looked for and no one has? Any ideas?

I would be into custom alloy wheels for my controllers. I have a JR XR2, an HPI TX-1 and a Hitec Challenger 200. Custom designs would be cool and it would be nice not to have plastic...especially the HPI one. FF

[Alex-XXXNT]

jdm3849 -

I did the same thing when I first got my RTR. Those little screws are freekin worthless. I used a pair of wire cutters to grasp the screw and slowly, turn by turn, unscrewed it. I then used my extra phillips head servo screws that came with the truck to put the battery lid back on. They worked great. I got that tip from another person in here 9cant remember who).

[Got Speed]

Ive ordered my XXX-NT ADE!:) I should be getting it here friday!
So I have a few more questions. :p

1-Is there any additional steps I should take while building it other than loctite all the metal to metal bolts?

2-Ive heard alot of horror stories about losi diffs on here. Is there anyway I can be sure of building my diff perfectly? I don't care how long it takes I just can't afford to have diffs stripping on me.

3-Will my .12 CV be plenty of engine for it? At least until I start getting to be a better driver?

4-Is there anything I need other than: Tools, CA glue, loctite, and an exacto knife to build it?

5- How does this paint scheme sound? Dark Candy Red in the front 3/4ths going back then changing to a dark blue in a diagonal torn look, with lighting starting in the front and going all the way down the body to either the rear or the spoiler then looking like a big spark or a big burst where they all come together?

Thanks! Got Nitro!?

[rcboy618]

1- not really
2- just build it according to the manual.
3- your cv will be a good motor. jason ayers made it to the a main in expert gas truck at the silver state running one. i made it to the spt gas truck at the hotrod hobbies shootout running one, ended up 4th(running one bald tires, not such a good choice).
4- nope
5- sounds good

[Juice]

Great truck you got there! I will tell you you will burn up a diff at least once!! everybody has! What I finally did is buy the RTR diff rebuild kit that uses the spring instead of the beveled washers. I noticed a tremendous improvement, the diff was much smoother as almost felt too loose but it was very tight. I ran the dog out of it Saturday night racing and it was flawless! So when and if you toast your diff try the spring kit version!

[Racin Rev]

got speed,
I have had my xxxnt for over a year and have yet to blow out a diff. I built according to the manual and made sure that the slipper was looser than the diff. No problems so far.

I have had problems with ball cups and clutch bearings.
I am using boca and now have no problems and aftermarket cups which has improved maintenance. One thing to look at is the legnth of the turnbuckles. in the regular kit the turnbuckles were too short and was snaping or bending the cups because there wasn't enough thread in the cup. problem was solved by buying slightly longer turnbuckles (Ti). So far, no problems.

Aaron
thanks for the help on the carb restrictor, I won the A main the next week and had much more control. It did require a lot of adjustment, but it is working well. :)

[Zigmund555]

Also put this in the main Nitro forum.

Just got the XXX-NT ADE.. put it all together. Also got a OS Max .12 CR (maybe the CR-V. can't remember.. I'm a newbie).

Anywho, can't get the engine mounted properly on the frame.. With the mounting blocks on the engine, out of the 4 holes in the chassis, only 2 line up in the outside holes.. 2 of the holes in the mounting block aren't even on the chassis, they're hanging over the side..

Any ideas? I believe I got the short-shaft, but it doesn't all line up properly.

Thanks..

[Zigmund555]

it's just the CV

[Zigmund555]

it's the CV.. sorry for any confusion.

[dissymmetry]

I'm also including titanium bearing standoffs like the original aluminum ones for the rear in the wheels package. Thought you might appreciate that.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Juice
Great truck you got there! I will tell you you will burn up a diff at least once!! everybody has! What I finally did is buy the RTR diff rebuild kit that uses the spring instead of the beveled washers. I noticed a tremendous improvement, the diff was much smoother as almost felt too loose but it was very tight. I ran the dog out of it Saturday night racing and it was flawless! So when and if you toast your diff try the spring kit version!

Do you have a link as to where I can buy one? Thanks



got speed,
I have had my xxxnt for over a year and have yet to blow out a diff. I built according to the manual and made sure that the slipper was looser than the diff. No problems so far.

I have had problems with ball cups and clutch bearings.
I am using boca and now have no problems and aftermarket cups which has improved maintenance. One thing to look at is the legnth of the turnbuckles. in the regular kit the turnbuckles were too short and was snaping or bending the cups because there wasn't enough thread in the cup. problem was solved by buying slightly longer turnbuckles (Ti). So far, no problems.

Aaron
thanks for the help on the carb restrictor, I won the A main the next week and had much more control. It did require a lot of adjustment, but it is working well.

Do you have the standard kit version diff? What engine are you running? Did you just build it buy the instructions? Thanks!

[losifreak2004]

Wow! Go to a two-day race, and this place filled up!

If you guys have any questions that haven't gotten answered, let me know. MUCH easier than trying to go back through the last three pages!

Aaron Waldron

[Zigmund555]

Aaron,

See my engine mounting problems, a few posts back.. any thoughts?

Also.. for everyone else.. trying to finish up putting the XXX-NT together..

any last minute things to check before I break in the engine?
1. Differential
2. Slipper
... anything else?

[KEVIN-RTR]

you guys have been a huge help getting me started and i've had a blast with this great car .... i've broken a few parts but replaced them easily ... buying the aluminum rear pivot block is the best advice i can give to a new buyers ... its a pain to replace and it did break quick ... no complaints about the car ... its been running great ...

question !!

i'm in Colorado and running at several different spots ... they all have the same dirt charactaristics ... hard ground with loose, light stuff on top ... the car throws off the loose stuff and spins on the hard ground ... my stock tires are about shot and my traction is really bad ... i'm looking for something with a better grip but i still want to keep the life span as long as possible .... any ideas?

[dkj-M3]

Ifmars or Step-pins should work. Silver compound should last longer, but I think Reds would have better grip.

Sombody correct me if i'm wrong.

[Got Speed]

KEVIN-RTR- I know how it is. I race too and I can't afford to buy the softest compound or smallest pins or whatever because it costs so much to replace them after a few runs. it's a trade off usually, better traction or longer wear. If youve got one you don't have the other. Something like dkj-M3 said is probably what your looking for.

[KEVIN-RTR]

thanks for the advice ... how do those compare to the stock that i got with the RTR? ... should i use the same front tires that i have now ... it doesn't seem to be as much of a problem on the front ... just the back sliding out really bad ...

[GT BABY]

iam having trouble choosin tires i cant choose between the directional and the razor rib my track for the most part is tackey the tires kinda klog up with mud and very few time its been dry and dust its loose packed except when they let it get dry then its hard plesae give me advice your help is aprecciated

[drdirt]

soft panther step pins are available from larrycomsale on ebay. same as m3 prolines for less. i just got three sets with paypal. quick sevice, nice guy. ...... jim

[dkj-M3]

KEVIN-RTR - I just looked at the sport kit & it doesn't have the normal Losi step-pin tread, so I don't know how they handle. For hard dirt with a lot of dust on top & when the track is watered I use silver step-pins, when there's just a little dust I use ifmars.

I run the stock directionals (with the 3 angled ribs) everywhere. silver's & reds, depends on, if I need more or less traction. It fits my driving style.

GT BABY - the directionals are less prone than the razors to getting caked, from my experiences.

Ask the fast guys what tires they run, someone once said find the right tires 1st, then start working on your set-up.

I'm #1 in the Z-main.

Peace

[Got Speed]

I have some silver 8 ribs and some Pro Line Edges. Im selling a truck but I want to keep the better ones for myself. Which ones should I keep. I run on hard packed dirt with loose stuff on top which is kep fairly wet.

[dkj-M3]

I would keep the Pro Line Edges, the 8-ribs seem to push more on dusty tracks.

[Zigmund555]

Question..

I got my engine (OS - CV) mounted.. but now it seems that the carb level is on the wrong side to line up with the servo arm. With the moving end of the servo toward the rear, it should be straight over to the engine (throttle linkage). However it's more toward the rear of the vehicle

Shouldn't throttle lever be a straight shot from the servo (like in the manual)?

If so, is there a way to rotate the tuning screws + air filter + throttle lever around 180 degrees to line it up properly?

[Crashbot2001]

Zigmund, yes, you can rotate the carb 180 degrees.

Look at the engine closely where the carb connects to the block of the engine.. (on the side where the throttle arm is right now)

You should see a small nut. Loosen it a few turns and you should be able to pull your entire carb assembly off the engine. Turn it 180 degrees, place it back on the engine, and re-tighten the little nut.

***Be sure to put some downward pressure on the carb while you re-tighten, pressing it firmly onto the engine. This will help ensure an air-tight seal.

Good Luck!

[Zigmund555]

Crashbot..

Thanks.. I'll give it a shot.. right now I've got stripped screws holding the engine in so I have to deal with those..

Real excited about running the truck though. Got it Saturday (first R/C) spend most of saturday, sunday, all of last night putting it together.

Mistakes.. lots of em, for some reason wound up installing some things backwards..

Concerns... hoping I put the diff and slipper together properly and it'll hold together.. After I finish assembly I'll check it out..

Another question for the board. You know the little pins on the rear axles that hold everything together, and fit into the groove in the rear wheels? Can I get one of those at a hobby shop, or is their a suitable replacement (one of them was lost). Would a thick piece of paperclip or wire work?

[DR.GT]

zigmund555:

You could use a length of paper clip but I went to the LHS and bought some piano wire the same thickness and just cut it to length as needed, its really strong stuff. As for you diff make sure its tight and the nut at the end of the slipper shaft should show about 3 threads thru it. You should be good to go then. After a couple of minutes just check the diff again to make sure it's still tight and hasen't backed off or "POOF" it'll be toast.

:)

[losifreak2004]

Zigmund and everyone else - Sorry I haven't posted anything since my last post, I have been getting errors when trying to send replies.

Kevin - The Panther Step Pins would be a world of difference over the stock RTR tires. You can buy any tire from www.panthertire.com On muddy/really sandy tracks, Med-Soft will work better.

I use Directionals at most tracks. I use Razor Pins when the track is hard packed and slightly dusty, and Panther Micro-ribs on blue groove.

Anything else?

Aaron Waldron

[lositeamdriver]

hey aaron if i ran Panther Tires on my associated would it make me win more? ..lol losi time....

[losifreak2004]

LOL Bubba...nothing will help your GT....

Lositeamdriver with a Losi truck? Imagine that!

Aaron Waldron

[KEVIN-RTR]

thanks for the help .... with the losi tires ... as far as the colors go ... how do they match up from hard to soft ... which color is which ?

[Got Speed]

I think they go pink, red, silver from softest to hardest.

[losifreak2004]

Kevin - Red is Losi's softest compound. Pink is slightly harder, and Silver is harder than Pink.

Aaron Waldron

[Got Speed]

Thanks for clearing me up on that! lol:p Do you know what tires the kit or ade comes with? Isn't it Red Step Pins and Silver Directionals?

[losifreak2004]

Yes

Aaron Waldron

[KEVIN-RTR]

don't know where i'd be without someone to answer questions ... thanks again ... i've never purchased tire ... when buying tires i assume they come in pairs ... will i need to get the foam inserts? ... how can i tell when its time to get new wheels? ... is there a specific way you can tell what kind of life is left?

[losifreak2004]

I can't think of tires that don't come with inserts anymore. When a wheel is bent, cracked, or the axle no longer fits snugly in the rim (or drive pin slot if damaged) it's time to get new wheels.

When the tire has no where near the traction it did when new, it's time to replace it. Normally, this is due to a severe loss in tread.

Aaron Waldron

[Ryche]

Hey guys.... welcome me to your forum.., I just bought another rc nitro car.. i need to stop that.. lol.. I got me an adam drake with a .12 cvr.. everything is brand new and i just put 2 tanks through the engine to start break in.. This car is sweet.. it has EVERYTHING.. it's so light, and looks pretty easy to setup ....

So tell me about this truck, what do i need to look out for, what do i need to change, how should i set it up... i'd like to know everything... What's up with the fuel tank and why is the pressure hole in the pipe so low...


im a forum freak, with a new toy.. heheheheh..



Ryche

[losifreak2004]

Welcome!

There's nothing wrong with the tank, it does exactly what it is supposed to do. And I'm not sure what you mean by the fitting on the tank being low...

You will be very happy with the truck in box stock form, but you have well over 100 pages of advice at your disposal!

Aaron Waldron

[Ryche]

HEHEH. .ya.. im already on page 42.. i just keep reading.. i did the same thing when i bought my NMT, and my 2 gt's.. i just kept reading. LOL..


What i meant about the hole being so low on the pipe was , that i have 3 other nitro's and it seems the pressure hole in the pipe is higher than the fuel level of the gas tank.. and that keeps the fuel from draining into the pipe.. i thought i had read where the hole on the pipe is too low and allows fuel to leak into the pipe..

is this true, or were my eyes just buggin from too much reading.. hehehhe


Ryche

[losifreak2004]

By wrapping 14 inches of fuel line around the top brace, it makes it very hard for fuel to back up into the pipe.

There is also an instruction on moving the pressure fitting on the tank to the cap, somewhere in this thread.

Aaron Waldron

PS My AIM screen name has again changed (LOL) It is now Aaron Waldron 1.

[Zigmund555]

Okay.. almost time to _finally_ start up the ADE.

Let me see if I can get the order down, let me know if anything seems out of place, ok? (You know for all the directions they give you for everything there is no "this is how you start it up")

Ok, I checked the glowplug.. works good.. new A3 from the lhs.. I'll look for the McCoy's in the future.

Should I put a few drops of after run oil in the carb? Should I after run oil the foam filter?

Add fuel, use starter for a few seconds to draw fuel into the carb. Use glowplug lighter to heat glowplug, use starter more to see if it runs..

"blip" throttle.. what's that just tap it a little, but not more than say 1/4 or 1/2 way? Let it idle..

This is my first breakin..

[KEVIN-RTR]

i broke mine in about a month ago and looked for advice from this forum and some others ... boy ... different advice all over the place ... i eventually just followed the instruction manual and common sense ... i raced motocross for a while and with 2 stroke engines i figured its the same thing ... except here you are also breaking in the diff ... breaking in a 2 stroke is all about heat, expanding and contracting ... people told me to idle a few tanks ... i didn't do it ... you'll break it in and have a weak engine ... i went 1/4 throttle to 1/2 always easy on it ... get it just to hot then let it cool all the way ... when cooling get the piston on the bottom of the stroke ... really short runs to start then gradually make them longer ... couple minutes at first then longer and hotter ... let that engine expand and contract until its finished ... i ran about 6 to 10 tanks through getting faster, hotter, and longer runs each time ... then i started leaning it out ... it worked great ... my buddy tried to start tuning too early and he had lots of problems ... it was very inconsistant ... i also followed the book on the diff ... adjusted it every other run ... not too tight ... it will strip ... just snug it up ... i ran in a parking lot just running an oval and never really hitting the gas in the turns ... i've got a screaming machine now and no diff probs ... i might have done it different than others, but it turned out great!

[Crashbot2001]

Zigmund, yes, you should apply some after run oil to your air filter element and massage it a bit to spread it well. Then squeeze out the excess.

A drop or two of after run oil down the carb AND down the glo plug hole will definately not hurt. You might even turn the engine over a few times afterwards to work the oil around inside.

I'll give you my advice on break in.

Check that your needle settings and idle screw are at the recommended settings(check engine manual)

Fill up the tank with fuel. I prefer to prime the carb AFTER I place the ignitor on. This helps keep me from flooding the engine by priming too much. With this said, place the glo ignitor on, cover the tip of the pipe and pull the starter once(or bump it once). Remove your finger from the pipe and repeat. It should start right up. If not, repeat the "finger over the pipe" process until it does. "blipping" the throttle is just that. Just a quick blip, of the throttle. about 1/4 if I were to estimate. Sometimes this does help a lot

Once you have it running:

I usually run three tanks of gas through it at idle with the truck on a stand. The goal here is to get the engine hot enough to begin mating parts without really making the engine "work"

With the rich break in settings on the needles, you may have to occasionally blip the throttle to keep it running. You could also increase the idle slightly to help this. You can do this while the engine s running.

Watch your temps. I like to break it in around 190-200 degrees. Any cooler and the parts are actually too cool to expand properly and you will cause premature wear. You can control the temp that the engine is idling at by leaning or richening the high speed needle. This too can be done as the engine is running.

I run for 1/2 tank then shut it off and let it cool for 20 mins. When you do this, move your piston so it is bottom dead center(BDC). To do this, move your flywheel by hand until you feel resisitance, then turn it the other way until you feel resistance. Halfway between those two points(about 2/3 to 3/4 turn apart) is BDC. This keeps the piston from getting stuck in the sleeve as the sleeve cools and contracts.

Once your engine has cooled (i let it cool until under 100 degrees), restart it and let it idle again for another 1/2 tank. I don't like to let a new engine run out of fuel so I usually top off the tank each time I start it. Just keep repeating this process 5 or 6 times.

Once this is done, the engine is pretty much broken in. you can begin to run your truck on the ground. I would stick to ashpalt for 1 or two tanks and try to avoid lng stretches of full throttle. wait three or four tanks before tuning the engine in for performance.

Well, that's what I do and I get pretty good life from my engines.. Some others here might have some other suggestions. Good Luck!

[tarvymoto]

The position of the hole shouldn't pose and probs. The only complaint I have about Losi pipes is that they don't come w/ a preasure fitting from the factory(and the rubber stinger on the stock NT pipe can cause probs if it goes too far into the pipe and you don't realize it .....you can't get your engine tuned) . On my Drake I just used a Dubro presure fitting and secured it w/ a dab of JB weld and Waalaa you have a nice set up.

[dissymmetry]

Hey, all. Your wheels are ready.

-Dissymmetry

[nightspd]

Mach .15 Engine.

I broken it in, but now I'm having a problem. whenever I open up the throttle all the way, the engine stalls. I've been richening up the high-speed needle, but it doesn't seem to be helping. Anyone have any suggestions?

Also, the brake...when I hit the brake, should it be locking up the axle, or should it just be slowing the car down?

Thanks

-= Chris

[db_racing]

I am having problems with my ballcups popping off at the shock tower. I replaced the ballcups with rod ends but they are shorter than the ballcups and the turnbuckles are now pulling out of the plastic rod end and/or ballcup at rear wheel. I've also tried all brand new cups and studs. Is there any other trick out there.....other than not crashing? Can I use a turnbuckle of a different length or is there some captured ends that have long thread lengths? db

[dkj-M3]

I need your input on which air compressor to get. I'll basically be using it to clean my nitro truck. So what brand & how much horsepower or psi do I need?

Thanks.

[Crashbot2001]

One like

This (http://**************/ws/*******************************2046185006)

[dkj-M3]

the link doesn't work

[nightspd]

Just plug the # at the end of the link into Ebay's search window.

2046185006

-= Chris

[Keemos]

I broken it in, but now I'm having a problem. whenever I open up the throttle all the way, the engine stalls. I've been richening up the high-speed needle, but it doesn't seem to be helping. Anyone have any suggestions?

nightspd - sounds like your engine is running too lean. If your engine idling fine and able to run a 1/4 speed but hesitates or stumbles when you fully open your throttle… then you are running too lean. Open up your high-speed setting about 1 or 2 hour (counter-clockwise). I would also check your glow plug… it could be fouled.

As far as braking, I set mine so it doesn't lock the axle. You will loose traction if you lockup your wheels.

Hope this helps

[Crashbot2001]

ok guys, I did it. Went to tighten my diff, just a hair, and the nut stripped! AARRGGHHH!!

Anyway, I'm gonna try to race Sunday, so I went ahead and bought all the parts to re-build it anyway.

I know how to tighten it(obviously not properly though).

I was going to tighten the slipper, back it out three turns, then tighten the diff until the slipper slips first. Then turn the slipper out to five turns. Will this be alright?

If I need to tighten the diff(and I will as it breaks in) how do I keep from overtightening again and stripping another nut?

Thanks in advance guys!

Crash

[Andy_7676]

has anyone successfully ran Duratrax Red Alert 10% in their xxx-nt?

I'm having 1 hell of a time keeping mine running. I mean it will stay running if I keep the glow starter on it, but as soon as I take it off, the engine stops within 1-2 seconds, sometimes it stops immediately.

any ideas? is it the fuel? I know my plug is ok...

my books says 4 turns out for the idle, but that seemas like alot since the bolt is out really far, large on should be out 2 1/2 turns, this sound right for factory?

I really messed my settings up....

[purplerides]

Andy - my first guess would be the glow plug , try a new one , i've seen it where the glow with the igniter on but the motor just won't run once you take it off , i've put a new plug in and runs fine , my second guess is your to rich and it needs the extra glow of the glow ingiter to keep it going.

[purplerides]

nightspd - it's hard to say without actually hearing it , tuning over the intrenet is tough , but it could be stalling for either lean or to rich , when in doubt always go richer if that doesn't work then go leaner , also did you change anything ie. glowplug? , if you did is it the same as before some times to cold of a plug will do that .12's normally like hot plugs.

[dissymmetry]

Anyone here live in Southern California? I'm wondering where you take your nitro car to run other than in Carson, yuck. Wouldn't want to park my real car anywhere in that city.

I know a guy who made a backyard track for his son's minibike, but they are tearing it out soon to remodel the house. Suck! Cool little track, when I get the video footage back, I'll be sure to let you all know, you can see how bad a driver I am, he he he. I need a new track to run on!

-Dissymmetry

[StevePond]

Just testing to see if I can get this thread jumpstarted.

[StevePond]

Testing II

[StevePond]

Seems to be working now.

[DR.GT]

Finally were up again....

:D

[bullett1818]

AIGHT Rock on Guys !!! -BULLETT-

[DsWright]

woohoo!

haven't been able to post in like a week, now if i could remeber what i wanted to post about.........

[groy]

Hey this forum is great, I've already learned alot my first time here. Just writing to say that I also just bought a Adam Drake kit and within days it will be here. I have a good amount of knowledge of Nitro cars and trucks so hopefully I'll be helping others as well as learing from them. For my first question whats the deal with the fuel tank leaking is it from the o-ring on the lid, does it leak in a rollover or what is the problem? Later

[FastFreddy]

Originally posted by Crashbot2001
ok guys, I did it. Went to tighten my diff, just a hair, and the nut stripped! AARRGGHHH!!

Anyway, I'm gonna try to race Sunday, so I went ahead and bought all the parts to re-build it anyway.

I know how to tighten it(obviously not properly though).

I was going to tighten the slipper, back it out three turns, then tighten the diff until the slipper slips first. Then turn the slipper out to five turns. Will this be alright?

If I need to tighten the diff(and I will as it breaks in) how do I keep from overtightening again and stripping another nut?

Thanks in advance guys!

Crash
I have been trying to post this for a week! Hope it helps! FF

Pretty much follow the directions Losi gives BUT realize this. It is not like screwing a bolt into a hole in a piece of wood. You would tighten it until snug and then go a turn or two further until it is "tight" by your standards. INSTEAD you do the diff test...Tighten the slipper down all the way until spring bottoms out, hold spur and rt wheel and try to turn left wheel forwards. If it doesn't turn with a good deal of force then it is alright for now. IF IT TURNS and you still have flesh on the finger holding the spur gear then lock the screw and right outdrive with a hex key and turn the left wheel backwards 1/8 of a turn ONLY. Here is where I goofed twice. I turned the wheel back until I felt it get "tight". WRONG!!! Check it again after 1/8 of a turn. If not correct go another 1/8. There is a spring in there that once it fully compresses this lock nut is DESIGNED to strip to protect the internals. Once you get the diff to where it does not slip you will need to check it with every tank for the first few tanks until the diff has fully broken-in. I think he said to check it 4 times with first two tanks, then twice with next two tanks. Also you will need to set the slipper after the diff. Turn it out three turns from fully compressed and check it. It should slip for the first 1.5-2.5 feet when you give the truck full throttle. He told me that if I couldn't tell when it was slipping to loosen it to the point at which it was OBVIOUSLY slipping and tighten from there until in that range. He also told me an interesting bit about how those alloy gears are extremely less efficient than the stock molded ones and should not be used. The molded ones have a better tolerance and are self-lubricating for longer life. We were on the phone for like 25 minutes...heck of a nice guy and very knowledgeable.

[RD Racing]

Here are a couple of pictures of my Adam Drake XXXNT. I have about 15 tanks through it, the last 12 or so being on a track in full throttle action. No problems whatsoever with the rear diff. I adjusted per the instructions and keep the slipper loosened as FF said.

Runs great!

Roy

http://www.rdracingproducts.com/Losi4.jpg

http://www.rdracingproducts.com/Losi5.jpg

[WFO]

I just finished building my xxx-nt drake !
This thing rules. bye bye GT.
I picked it up tues. at my lhs for $275 bucks and what a nice quality and fast build. This is my first losi (i've been an rc10 guy for 10 years) and i love it so far . Cant wait to drive it!

RD -- sweet truck ,is that a fantom motor in there ? if so what one and how is it?

[RD Racing]

WFO,

Yes it is a Fantom FR12 but to eliminate the low end blues of the Fantom I threw an OS 10E carb on it. It runs really good now. There are better engine out there, like the Mugen MT12, which I run in one of my Rustlers, but I had the Fantom sitting here and thought I would give it one more chance.

Roy

[KEVIN-RTR]

I'm looking to get rid of the pull start on my RTR ... i've got a starter box and that pull start just dangles and wobbles around and its getting to be a mess ... don't think i'll ever use it again ... anyone know what part would go in its place and how to go about installing it? Thanks for the help!

[WFO]

I dont know what kind of motor it is but, you need a non ps backplate.
You will have to cut off the little tab on the crankshaft .other than that ,it's a peice of cake.

[banditwing]

Man I've been trying to post forever!!

Ok, I totally rebuilt my diff with all new parts, and now it's working great. But the other day after my bashing sesion I go to check the diff tightness by turning the wheel with the spur held. Then the tranny clicks like I stripped a idler/diff gear. I got all pissed because I had everything adjusted right, then I come back 5 minutes later to check to see if it is still clicking and it's not.
What do you think?

I am confused, but Happy. I Think my spring in the diff is bottomed out and there is a little more pressure on it than that. I will leave it alone and then let it loosen on it's own. I do not think that the diff nut is stripped.

On another note, what is a good set of Hex Drivers to get. Im drooling over the Losi's, but I think that is a little to much for me. Maybe I might just get one losi and the rest of a cheaper brand. With the "Bondhaus" brand that I got off Horizon there is a little play between the driver and screw. Is this normal? If not could it be from the allen keys, or are the drivers just plain cheap?

Thanks

[FastFreddy]

By-the-way...I just got the diff nut/carrier assy from HG and it works great! It replaces that little nut and plastic carrier with a solid, threaded aluminum piece. I felt much more confident adjusting the diff than before. FF

[banditwing]

FF, Can I have a link?

Thanks

[FastFreddy]

Originally posted by banditwing
FF, Can I have a link?

Thanks Here you go...Tower also sells it, just search for LOSI there. (http://www.1hg.com/cw/item1.cfm)

[Crashbot2001]

Double Post

[Crashbot2001]

Man, Finally this thing is fixed..

Roy, Was wondering if you've been playing with the XXXNT...

F/F thanks for the help. I rebuilt the whole thing, tightened a few times before my first heat Sunday and hadf no problems with the diff all day. Checked it last night and it's still good to go.

BanditWig, the HG nut looks like it would work well, but just so you know, the diff nut is nothing more than a 4-40 lock nut. You can pick up a stainless steel one at a hardware store for about 12 cents and you'll never strip it again.

Here's the tower link for the HG however.

HG Diff Nut @ Tower (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXL637&P=7)

[FastFreddy]

What's platuing if I may ask??

[Crashbot2001]

Fast Freddy, story of my life. How I could possibly hit the T and the U without hitting the Y is beyond me... lol

[banditwing]

$10!!! You've got to be kidding me. I'll stick with my 10 extra nuts that I got for $2 thank you very much.:D

[Got Speed]

Sorry Double Post:eek: :)

[Got Speed]

Well I finnally got my Adam Drake in the mail. It's all built now but I need to order a new crank for my .12 CV.

Is there any thing nescesarry for this before I start racing? Like maybe a RTR diff spring,RPM bumper, or something like that?

Hey dissymmetry, Im going there next week just to race. Im going to The Dirt, Extreme RPM, Pro Line, Pegasus, and KZ speedway. What kind of setups do you guys that race there use
for each?

Oh, I also got a Dynamite starter box but I have no idea how to charge the batterys. I was thinking 8 volts @ 2 amps each?

Thanks

[FastFreddy]

Originally posted by banditwing
$10!!! You've got to be kidding me. I'll stick with my 10 extra nuts that I got for $2 thank you very much.:D

Yeah, it's a little much but I liked getting rid of that plastic carrier plus having all those threads. Just think...that nut would be $100 on a 1:1 car:D

[StevePond]

Thanks for the patience guys, fixed again for now and we're still looking into this.

[StevePond]

Hopefully it will stay open this time... :rolleyes:

[Nutter]

Testing.. testing.. 1.. 2.. 3.. :p

Got Speed: The RTR diff spring isn't necessary.. as I told you in the chat, the washers work fine if you adjust the diff according to the instructions exactly.
The RPM bumper looks totally useless actually - it protects the front bulkhead/kickup plate only from collisions - and hardly the arms at all, which is where 99.999% of damage occurs from collisions with.
I'm assuming that the Dynamite starter box has 2x7.2V battery packs? If so, charge them at about 4A on a peak charger (if you want something cheap that works, the MRC SuperBrain sounds good).

banditwing: What did it end up being? If it was the idler gear as you thought, that's almost certainly because you're running the slipper way too tight - it should be 4-5 FULL turns out from closed atleast; at this point that means there'll probably only be a single thread past the end of the locknut. It may sound loose, but that's correct.


-Nutter

[Crashbot2001]

Gluing Tires?

I've been having problems with my tires coming unglued. I've been using superglue(not the gel), with a good bit all the way around inside and outside edge of the rim. Seems after a few hours at the track, the rims are full of dirt and there's loose parts of tire where it's getting in. Is this a common problem or should I look to a different brand of glue?

Thanks

Crash

[rcboy618]

GOT SPEED- well for the dirt, proline, and kz the drake setup will work great. extreme same, and same goes for peagsus. peagsus doesnt hold races anymore but you can still go and practice. i also ran a different set up then adam's setup for the dirt proline, and kz. actually i ran a different setup then him on hotrods and extreme too. my setup made it less twitch and alot easiler to drive. you should head out to lake perris track too, its a good size track with dirt like proline, the dirt, and kz. its not that far from the dirt too.

[JEEL]

Just wondering where everyone's needle settings were during break in and where they are now? I begain breaking in my Mach .15 today, and the only way to get it started was with a lean setup

high speed needle = 2.0 turns out

low speed needle = 2.5 turns out

Even with the lean setup, I was still running very rich! Fuel was spitting out of the exhaust! Should I be concerned?

Weather was 80 degrees. Thanks.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by rcboy618
GOT SPEED- well for the dirt, proline, and kz the drake setup will work great. extreme same, and same goes for peagsus. peagsus doesnt hold races anymore but you can still go and practice. i also ran a different set up then adam's setup for the dirt proline, and kz. actually i ran a different setup then him on hotrods and extreme too. my setup made it less twitch and alot easiler to drive. you should head out to lake perris track too, its a good size track with dirt like proline, the dirt, and kz. its not that far from the dirt too.

Ill see if I can get to lake perris too. Is kz moving? If so, where? Should I run the stock step pin rear tires too?

[FastFreddy]

Originally posted by Crashbot2001
Gluing Tires?

I've been having problems with my tires coming unglued. I've been using superglue(not the gel), with a good bit all the way around inside and outside edge of the rim. Seems after a few hours at the track, the rims are full of dirt and there's loose parts of tire where it's getting in. Is this a common problem or should I look to a different brand of glue?

Thanks

Crash

Are you roughing up the groove in the rim with sandpaper and then cleaning the groove and the tire bead with alchohol to remove any mold release agent? If so then go get another glue. I use zap-a-gap and then I only glue each side in about four spots in case I want to reuse the rims. Otherwise if I did the whole way around forget it:) Hope I helped. FF

[Crashbot2001]

The original thread is stuck again! lol

Anyway, FF...

I have never prepped my rims for mounting tires. I will do so now though. Do you not get dirt inside the tires with gluing only the four spots on each side? It seems that I get dirt in mine if only a small spot doesn't have glue. Hate those two pound wheels.. lol

[StevePond]

I don't know how long this is going to last, but thanks everyone for your patience. We're working on a solution.

[FastFreddy]

Originally posted by Crashbot2001
Do you not get dirt inside the tires with gluing only the four spots on each side? It seems that I get dirt in mine if only a small spot doesn't have glue. Hate those two pound wheels.. lol

No...with the foam in there I haven't had a problem. I can rev the motor off the ground and I don't see gaps form around the rims. The four spots are around 1/4 to 1/2 inch each.

[FastFreddy]

Originally posted by SteveP
I don't know how long this is going to last, but thanks everyone for your patience. We're working on a solution.

Thanks for fixing it on the weekend...FF

[Got Speed]

Well here is my finished body(except for the front and side window)!:) I wish I wouldn't have done it so fast because I made a few mistakes, tell me if you can see them.:( Tell me what you think:confused:

rcboy618-If you don't mind, what kind of setup and steering servo are you using?

[Got Speed]

Well here is my finished body(except for the front and side window)!:) I wish I wouldn't have done it so fast because I made a few mistakes, tell me if you can see them.:( Tell me what you think:confused:

rcboy618-If you don't mind, what kind of setup and steering servo are you using?

[rcboy618]

the losi glue is very good, but its a little pricey.

got speed- kz is not moving. losi red steps are perfect for the dirt, kz, perris, proline and peagsus. also the panther steps are great too, they dont wear as quickly as losi does. med-soft or soft compound will do good. fronts should be either red or silver directionals. hope that helps.

well i ran a airtronics 94737 for throttle and a jr 8550 or airtronics 94358, there pricey but are great servos, with an M8. i will post you my setup alittle later when i find my setup book.

oh by the way, im SELLING my adam drake editon with os cv, trinity parts, new unpainted drake body, extra shock springs, and about 7 or 8 sets of tires that are desent to great shape. this truck has only been ran in 2 races, the norrca offroad nationals in hemet and the hotrodhobbies shootout. it has never been club raced or practiced on, i had another truck for that. i will let it go for $300.00

[stitch]

hey guys, ive been tryin all day but the thing wont start, it seems like the starter wheel cant make good contact with the flywheel, i tried dremeling the sides of the chassis hole, to give it a better chance of getting a connection, but nothing works. Is there any larger flywheel i can get or lower engine mounts? Or am i doin somethin wrong?
thanks guys

[banditwing]

My Slipper is 4- 1/4 turns out. I have all regular kit parts inside my diff now save the spring. I am not going to check because right now it is working fine. I almost definatly think that it was the diff/idler, but It seems it works ok. I could make the slipper slip before the diff easily enough when I held the spur and wheel and turned the other. The slipper would definatly slip before the diff. I was running it at almost 5 1/2 turns out, but It would take awhile to get going on a good grip surface (Grass) so I tightened it up a bit. It still slips before the diff so Im ok I think.

Thanks for the help.

[Crashbot2001]

Stitch, I've not had any problems with mine hitting the wheel. I have the ofna pink box with big motor.

It worked fine with the RTR engine and now with my OS12 CZ

I can't imagine why you would have so much trouble?

[WFO]

I ran my first 5 tanks through the new drake yesterday and it rules (i dont miss my gt and i been runnig AE for 10 years) the losi fits my driving style way better.
The power from my picco 12 is sweet. This trucks steering blows away the gt :D and the way it jumps is so sweet ...then lands like a wet sponge.

team losi rules!

we'll get to really scope it out at the races this thurs. night. there's usually more than 10 gt's and a couple losi's ,so we'll see if i can put a spankin' on em
;)

[Crashbot2001]

go get em.. Been hearing about a lot of guys around here goinf from Losi to GT. I don;t understand it myself.. I figure it improves my odds of winning! lol

[FastFreddy]

Originally posted by banditwing
My Slipper is 4- 1/4 turns out. I have all regular kit parts inside my diff now save the spring. I am not going to check because right now it is working fine. I almost definatly think that it was the diff/idler, but It seems it works ok. I could make the slipper slip before the diff easily enough when I held the spur and wheel and turned the other. The slipper would definatly slip before the diff. I was running it at almost 5 1/2 turns out, but It would take awhile to get going on a good grip surface (Grass) so I tightened it up a bit. It still slips before the diff so Im ok I think.

Thanks for the help.

Glad to hear you are up and running! So what do you think? I know you were pssd off before...was it all worth it now? :D

[rcboy618]

ive actually made the switch from losi to gt myself. the gt is just plan easier to drive, and whats easier makes you faster. around here alot of people run the losi. i still think the losi is probably a better built car then the gt, but im faster with the gt so im going to sale my drake ed.

**********
im SELLING my adam drake editon with os cv, trinity parts, new unpainted drake body, extra shock springs, and about 7 or 8 sets of tires that are desent to great shape. this truck has only been ran in 2 races, the norrca offroad nationals in hemet and the hotrodhobbies shootout. it has never been club raced or practiced on, i had another truck for that. i will let it go for $300.00

email me at ch0wmain@hotmail.com

**********

[banditwing]

Well, im still pssed about the tranny problems, a little.

I tried tightening my slipper about 1-2 turns, then trying it, and it clicks. I then loosen the slipper and now have it set at 5+ turns. It doesn't click. My guess is that the compound and diff gear are stripped just a little, so that if there is enough load on it it will click, but with the slipper that loose there isn't.

I might be able to make it to the LHS this week to pick up spare parts.:D

What I do not get is why it stripped. I totally rebuilt my entire diff except the outdrives. (One side the black anodizeng (or paint I dunno what it is) was worn away, but it was still flat, should I replace it? Or don't worry.) I changed the ilder to a fresh one. And have been jumping the truck, but not at WOT and no harsh landings. The slipper would always slip before the diff too. My locknut is not stripped, but very tight. (Maybe I'm on the verge of it being half stripped, should I replace?) One thing also is that my slipper shaft is bent. A while ago when my tranny wasn't smooth, I spun it in a drill, but the drill wouldn't lock down on the shaft right because it's that circle/flat spahe so It bent it a little. I took it out of the tranny and gear and tryed to bang it flat. The only part that looked bent was the part where the nut threads onto, so that shouldn't be a prob.

Maybe the tranny case is out of alignment because of all the stripping too? I have no idea but it might becasue of soft plastic.

Im baffled, but these are my suspects as to why it stripped, in order of likelyness:(sp)
1. Diff nut is stripped, not quite stripped but to the point where it is almost, and caused the same effect as one of my first problems.
2. Slipper shaft is bent and slighty out of alignment (It still turns freely though)
3. Slipper mysteriously froze up on a landing and stripped the gears.
4. Hard landing injured tranny, but they were all on dirt, relativly flat, and the only jump on pavment was about 6inches of air. (Landed that flat too).
5. Tranny case is out of alignment slightly
6. Bogus gears

Tell me what you think happened.

Thanks a lot guys.
:)

[dissymmetry]

Asking again ...

Originally posted by dissymmetry
Anyone here live in Southern California? I'm wondering where you take your nitro car to run other than in Carson, yuck. Wouldn't want to park my real car anywhere in that city.

I know a guy who made a backyard track for his son's minibike, but they are tearing it out soon to remodel the house. Suck! Cool little track, when I get the video footage back, I'll be sure to let you all know, you can see how bad a driver I am, he he he. I need a new track to run on!

-Dissymmetry

[Got Speed]

There is:

The Dirt in Hemet www.thedirtracing.com (this week there having part of the saturday series which starts at 11am but they open at 8am)

Pro Line in Banning

Extreme RPM in Grand Terrace www.extremerpmracing.com

Pegasus in Montclair www.pegasushobbies.com

Hot Rod in Saugus www.hotrodhobbies.com

KZ speedway in Sun Valley www.kzspeedway.com

Lake Perris Racetrack in Lake Perris? There website is no longer up. If anyone has info on this track I would appreciate it. :)

There are a few others but they arn't biggies. I don't think.

I am afraid when I lock my slipper Im going to strip the the top shaft. Has this happened to anyone else?

[tarvymoto]

Got Speed , the locknut would strip before the slipper shaft would.

[Got Speed]

How far is your's threaded in?

[Crashbot2001]

my buddies tranny was clicking like that. It turned out to be the plastic gear in the tranny with the two different size gears on it. Don;t know the proper name for it. He had just rebuilt too.. lol.. he wasn't happy. We suspect his slipper was a bit too tight and a pebble lodged between the Spur Gear and clutch bell. With the slipper too tight, it didn't slip fast enough to prevent the damage. That's our theory anyway!

[jdm3849]

Hi guy's, I just got back from my 3 week trip to wyoming, my truck ran flalwessly, except for my last run. I felt the batts running low so I just let it idle anjd all of a sudden the batts when completely dead and it went full throttle and hit a semi's tire. It made a lound snap noise and I ran over to it and the right front turnbuckle bent bad, so I bent it back and after I let the fuel run out I inspected it mor and the bulkhead has a crack in it where it connects to the upper deck. CA glue now holds it together. Why did it go full throttle? the batts have been dead before but it stopped on its own, it didnt just take off. How much does a graphite blk. head cost?

Alex-xnt, what part of the wire cutters did you use? the end (tip)?

[pureluc]

hey guys, I bought a rtr, I was wondering is the losi parts stronger than graphite. I hear graphite is brittle, and plastic flex's. I'm looking for durability thanks.....

[dkj-M3]

Ok it's working again

pureluc - I see your from Dayton too, well anyhoo, get the plastic it's 50% cheaper, plus if you hit something hard enough it'll break, whether it be plastic, graphite or titanium.

[DsWright]

Plastic is all you really need, on a club level you can't tell how much plastic flexes more than graphite....

But in the end it all comes down to how much you hit and how hard you hit it=) Once i became a better driver, i stopped breaking stuff. My first time racing i broke just about anything possible. Now i almost never break.

You should come out to dirtcountry and race with me and DKJ.

WWW.DCRCR.com

Great track, only 3 weekends left.

[dkj-M3]

Hey Dale, I got my name up in lights, HAHA

[banditwing]

Hey guys. Went to the track to get parts. I snapped a rear shocktower, JB weld didn't work so great, so I picked up a Graphite one. It was the only one they had, or I would have gotten stifezel. It was 11.50 for the graphite!!! I now have felt stifezel, graphite and RTR plastic. The RTR is soft, Stiffezel is definatly stiff enough for all you needs, even winning the worlds, graphite is rigid, and I think just as strong as the stifezel, but adds the cool factor with the GRAPHITE printed on it :D

I also picked up an associated factory team (gt) jk:) , but I did pick up the factory team drivers. I got the 1/16 size and man this thing is soooo much better than the bondhaus ones I have. It fits perfectly!! Next time I go I will also pick up a 3/36 as that is the one screw size that is used most commonly on the truck.

I definatly have a hunch that it is the compound gear (Plastic stepped Idler) that is messed up. But what is very weird is I just totally rebuilt my tranny the other day (Like 5 tankfuls ago), have been checking diff tightness constantly, and had the slipper 4 1/2 turns out. It seems wierd that it will strip that easily.

Ok thanks for helping

[DsWright]

There are small spacers inside the tranny that could have been misplaced, that would allow the gears to move around just enough to hit where they shouldn't. also it's possible something got into the tranny during rebuild. May not be as likely, but i have seen wierder things.

If you haven't torn it down yet, i would, and check your manual when you do it.

Could be wrong, but it's worth a shot=)

[dissymmetry]

Blah. All those tracks are out in the boonies from where I am! The only track I'm aware of is in Carson, but Like I said before, I'm not willing to park my real car anywhere in Carson.

Looks like it's time for me to start a new business venture, eh?

[RedWolf]

Come check out my chat and join, it is a kewl place to hang and chiil but also talk about RC cars... http://groups.msn.com/RedWolfsRCHangout

I need more people so can u help me out... Thanks Red Wolf

[banditwing]

Originally posted by DsWright
There are small spacers inside the tranny that could have been misplaced, that would allow the gears to move around just enough to hit where they shouldn't. also it's possible something got into the tranny during rebuild. May not be as likely, but i have seen wierder things.

If you haven't torn it down yet, i would, and check your manual when you do it.

Could be wrong, but it's worth a shot=)

Hmm, the spacer thing. I have one spacer behind the topshaft and every where it says in the manuel. But what is wierd is a washer that fits over the diff was over the diff when I first took apart my tranny, I don't remember what side it was on. So I was building it on one side for a bit, then recently I just took out the washer and built it with none, since there was no washer that was stated in the manuel.

Any of you have a diff washer/spacer that fits over the outdrives of the diff inside the tranny? Please tell me what side it should be on?

[Crashbot2001]

I didn't find any washer on the outdrives inside or outside the tranny case. Only washers there were the diff washers(plates?)

[jdm3849]

Originally posted by jdm3849
Hi guy's, I just got back from my 3 week trip to wyoming, my truck ran flalwessly, except for my last run. I felt the batts running low so I just let it idle anjd all of a sudden the batts when completely dead and it went full throttle and hit a semi's tire. It made a lound snap noise and I ran over to it and the right front turnbuckle bent bad, so I bent it back and after I let the fuel run out I inspected it mor and the bulkhead has a crack in it where it connects to the upper deck. CA glue now holds it together. Why did it go full throttle? the batts have been dead before but it stopped on its own, it didnt just take off. How much does a graphite blk. head cost?

Alex-xnt, what part of the wire cutters did you use? the end (tip)?

[Grifter]

Hey Guys,
I'm vey close to buying the TripleX-NT Sport and I had a couple Questions.

When I buy the Lunsford Turnbuckles, what else do I need. Do I need the RPM Rod Ends and Ball Studs?

Also, are there any otehr Bodies available for th TripleX-NT beside Pro-Line's Crowd Pleazer?

Thanks!

[FastFreddy]

http://www.teamlosi.com/tour/tourpics/bag.jpg

Found this pic of Bill G., Losi customer service, while taking their online tour and thought I would post it so you all could see who you are talking to! I called him one time for a diff question and we spent over 25 minutes on the phone! Very friendly and knowledgeable. Bandit...you might want to call him about that gear problem...guarantee he has heard it all:D

(909) 465-9728. Normal business hours for customer service are Monday-Friday 8:30 AM - 5:00 PM PST.

[Crashbot2001]

What a job.... I'd love to get paid to play with my RCs

[FastFreddy]

Originally posted by Crashbot2001
What a job.... I'd love to get paid to play with my RCs

Well, at 30 it's not too late! I'm 32 and my wife and I are considering opening an LHS in our area.

[ronvdp]

Banditwing, when I took mine apart it also had a single washer, at first I thought I had lost one but after speaking to Bill found out that it is supposed to be only one. I put mine in on the right side and it works flawlessly. I'm not sure if it is just an rtr thing but it was very loose without it. Hope that answers your question.

[Crashbot2001]

I've considered the same thing. Then I look at the folks who have hobby stores in the not-so -local area, and they're barely staying open. Just not enoug interest in my area I guess.

I have a diff question

Since I rebuilt my diff, I've noticed that the truck will tend to swing the back end around on turns more than it did prior to the rebuild. Do I have my diff too tight? Would loosening it help this problem? If not, what else could I try?

Thanks

[Keemos]

Grifter - I found out that installing Losi Rod Ends works just fine if not better than RPM with the Lunsford Turnbuckles. Plus you don't have to replace the ball studs.

[Grifter]

Great!

Thanks Keemos.

[Locus]

Quick opinion on road tires, I'm getting read to order up a new set of rims for some road fun. I wanted to see what road tires/rubber you guys are running when on asphalt???

[dkj-M3]

Pro-Line Road Hawg II 2.2 Truck (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXDU03&P=0) works pretty good off-road too, for an on-road tire

[FastFreddy]

Originally posted by Keemos
Grifter - I found out that installing Losi Rod Ends works just fine if not better than RPM with the Lunsford Turnbuckles. Plus you don't have to replace the ball studs.

You will have to buy new ends regardless if you upgrade to Lundsford, at least I did. The Losi rods must be bigger diameter 'cause the old Losi ends slipped right over the Lundsford rods when I tried to swap them over. I ended up getting RPM's, a set of short and a set of long. They snapped right onto my Losi ball studs. FF

[jdm3849]

Originally posted by jdm3849
Hi guy's, I just got back from my 3 week trip to wyoming, my truck ran flalwessly, except for my last run. I felt the batts running low so I just let it idle anjd all of a sudden the batts when completely dead and it went full throttle and hit a semi's tire. It made a lound snap noise and I ran over to it and the right front turnbuckle bent bad, so I bent it back and after I let the fuel run out I inspected it mor and the bulkhead has a crack in it where it connects to the upper deck. CA glue now holds it together. Why did it go full throttle? the batts have been dead before but it stopped on its own, it didnt just take off. How much does a graphite blk. head cost?

Alex-xnt, what part of the wire cutters did you use? the end (tip)?

[Crashbot2001]

jdm, low reciever batts are unpredictable. If you notce them getting low, charge them or replace them. Looks like you learned the hard way that new batss are cheaper than new parts! lol

[Got Speed]

Will the .12 CVR with 10A carb work well with my NT? I know it is the onroad version but will using it hurt anything? It also says the crank is 1mm larger will the clutch nut not fit it? should I get this or the rotary carb?

[banditwing]

Well went to the track, finnally got some hex drivers, 1/16 in AE's, and 3/32 in Trinity's. Both excelent quality IMHO.

Also I couldn't get the engine to start. Then I talked to the track owner, and he brought out a starter box (Man those are nice) to start my XNT. He got it going, but he raised the idle like crazy to do it. I was coasting at about 10 mph with drag brake on at neutral!! Im like why, I didn't see him touch the low speed needle even once. So once it stalls, he temps it and it is running at 234 while I only did 1 lap around the track, and it's not a huge track either. He says that I probly wore out the piston and sleeve allready. Im like oh no. I had not even a full gallon through (Including break in) and here is another problem. I was positive I was running it on the rich side. Except for maybe the last couple tanks, but that was fartin around with no full throttle going only about 15 max. I don't get it. I removed the glow plug to see if I did have any pinch left. It seems like there is a little pinch, but it is a little bit before and after TDC. I try again to get it started with a fresh glow plug (MC59), and it did start, and I was able to do a couple laps and it still idled for about 10 seconds.

I'm positive that I was running it a bit rich, save those last tanks, so why should I have so little pinch after only a gallon? The owner says I was running to lean, but I was pretty sure I wasn't. If I was I guess I learned an expensive lesson ($50):mad:


-Banditwing

[Got Speed]

It could have been your tuning, or you could have gotten dirt in it, or some of these "sport engines" IMO are like a hit or miss kind of thing, because sometimes there great and sometimes they just don't last long at all. When I had an AE .15(figures, lol) it only lasted about 3 quarts of fuel maybe as much as a gallon but I don't think so. I know I wasn't the best tuner then but I wasn't letting the thing get real hot or anything, and I was keeping dirt out.

BTW: I got a .12 CVR with 10C. That's what I was looking for originally but now I got it! yay:D :) :cool:

Does anyone have a Dynamite Ultra Start box? Little late now(Im going racing in So cal for the next couple days! :D ), but, I can't get mine to line up properly, does anyone else have this box or problem?

[KEVIN-RTR]

hey guys ... somehow during either running or repairing i got out of adjustment on my throttle/brake set up ... when i hit the brakes it totally shuts of the throttle and now i can't even get a good idle ... its just jacked up ... i'm trying to figure out the directions but i'm not getting it ... anyone know an easy way to either explain how to set it up or tell me how? thanks!

[DsWright]

Bandit- sounds to me like your engine has an air leak, or wasn't properly tuned (most likely). I would take it out to someone who actually knows how to tune. And get some help from them, trying to explain it in a way you will understand exactly what i mean over the net is tough=( But i\with only like a gallon on it there should be no way it's worn out. Take your finger under the truck (when it isn't running=) and see if you can turn the flywheel a full revolution wth one finger.... if it still has compression you will not be able to or it will be very difficilt.... only when this test is very easy to do is your engine worn out...

Kevin- your carb has a idle speed screw that is located on the front of the carb, you will see it as a small screw with a spring on it sticking out of the side of the carb( mine actually sets on my tranny brace). When you turn this screw in, it adjusts the barrel in the carb so it can only close so far. if you turn it out it allows the barrel to totally close and that is why your engine is stalling. Turn the screw in some and that will stop the barrel from totally closing.


Hope that helps guys....

Dale

[Scrad]

Got speed, I use the Dynamite box. It is a little hard to get lined up. I put 3 of those adjustment post in the back and only one on the left side of the truck. So I have to push a little bit back and then left to make sure it's all lined up. If you still can't get it to work out I can take a pic of how I have mine set up.

[drdirt]

scrad open the box and undo the spring loaded housing so the lid of the box sits flat exposing the wheel. get sharpie ready to make marks on lid. align wheel by turnind flywheel with finger while watching rubber wheel turn. toward the front of chassis on either side about where steering servo is, you should find drilled hole in chassis. carefully mark top of box thru hole with sharpie. that sets the front side to side and also fore and aft movement. drill box and install 3/4 inch bolt in lid so bolt sticks thru hole. then align rear of box with tall rubber stops located on either side of receiver batt box. and there you go it cant move side to side or fore and aft. reinstall spring load and turn switch back on and hurry up you can still make the d-main

[brknwheel]

Kevin..... if the advice DsWright gave you concerning engine adjustments doesn't seem to make it OK, check the clutch bearings. The clutch bell should turn easily when the motor is not running.

[hambone]

Anyone blow out the clutch bearings on their mach .15 besides me?

Warning: When it happens you'll need 2- New slipper plates, 2- slipper disks, a new spur gear, possibly a new bell crank, 2-new bearings, total cost $46 - $54! Yikes! :mad:

[Crashbot2001]

no, had no problems with them.. I switched engines but kept the stock flywhee; and clutch kit. No problems whatsoever

[dkj-M3]

I've blown mine but they were no where near new, I didn't break anything, just had to replace the bearing. Simple wear & tear maintenance.

[DsWright]

Running in a really dusty environment makes them go faster than normal.

But i run the same track that DKJ runs, which is well, very dusty at times. and i get at least 2 gallons out of my bearings.

I always keep a spare set in the plastic they came in in my box incase they start to stick, you usually get a warning before they blow as your engine starts to run very hot and you may hear that sound you get when your gear mesh is to tight (if you have ever meshed an electric to tight you know the sound i mean).

Another good sign is your enigne will stall suddenly every now and then, because of the side loads that clutchbearings have to endure, they may spin freely in your hand, but stick when in the clutchbell under load.

[banditwing]

Well, Changed the glow plug, fixed the problem. But now another, after a very hard crash borke an a-arm and broke my crystal. Works fine when engine is off, but when on I have no control.

I am now running it very rich, it's nice n' cool too. I might lean it out a bit. I think all my probs were from running it too lean, because I never really tried richening it up that much.
I still have some resistance, but I think that gallon that I ran pretty lean might have shortened it's life substantialy.

Thanks for the help guys.

[dkj-M3]

banditwing- check to see if you have any metal to metal contact, if somethings loose the vibration from the engine, might cause the glitch.

[DsWright]

Bandit- what do you do to your poor truck man lol Every other post of yours is " well my truck exploded today", or "when my engine seems to take on a green radioactive glow, is that normal?"

hehe just messing with ya man, but are you very hard on your truck? i have had almost no problems with mine, but then again the only time i run mine is at the track, i know bashing is rough on them

You have a temp probe for your truck? MIP has on onboard for about 30$, and some hand helds are about 70$. May seem expensive, but when you consider how much longer your engines last knowing they aren't overheating, they save money in the long run.

[banditwing]

Actually, I haven't had that many problems. Just the tranny basically.

Changed the crystal, it works fine. I will probly look into a temp gun, as some say the are more acurate. Right now I use the spit test!:p

[DsWright]

hehe don't take me the wrong way, just messing with ya:D

I wish i had bought a gun, i bought an mip for my XNT, and that was great when i only had one car, now that i have an 1/8scale also, i had to buy another MIP and im almost to the price of the gun.


For just 1 car MIP i think is fine, for 2 or more buy a gun, or like me you wish you had=)

The thing that really hurts is buying a 2nd starterbox lol, my 1/8th has a pullstart, but i hate them=)

[Crashbot2001]

Banditwig, Get the gun. Nice to have the ability to check the temp of more than one vehicle. Watch E-bay, I picked mine up for 50 bucks, and I even got the model with the cool red laser pointer thingy, though with objects as small as RC engines, you really can't use the red light to aim it and get accurate results. It is fun to play with though!

DSWright, I have the Ofna Pink box with big motor, and it starts my XXXNT and My OFNA MBX R2. The pegs are set for the XXXNT. Just can't pout any towards the back of the truck.

Then I pulled the body off the MBX and set the chassis were it would engage the flywheel properly and traced with a sharpie.. Now when I need to start the MBX I just sit it on the outline and press down. It does sometimes need a little wiggle, but I'm not ready for another box. I have enough stuff to keep charged! lol

[banditwing]

I probly will get a temp gun. With my buddies owning Nitro's I could put it to good use. But first there is some other stuff I must get. Reciever pack, Superbrain 959 to charge it, crystals....

Starter Boxes are sweet, but I think I am perfectly fine with my pull start for now. I need to build some muscle anyway:p

[LosiGTX]

Has anyoneone installed a RS .12 in their XXXNT?
Someone experienced with the Losi XNT please help me with this: I own an XXt, XXT CR, and GTX. When the motor in my GTX gave out, I bought a Nova Rossi Rs .12 engine. The engine was a huge carburator, but i was still told that it would fit on the GTX chassis. I did happen to bolt it in, however I had to remove the Flex plate (which is not a very good idea). I now want to buy the new XXXNT, however iam not sure if my brand new RS . 12 will fit. Comparing the two models, I see that there is potential for it to work becase the flex plate is farther away and lower than the one on my GTX. Has anyone out there installed an Nova Rossi RS. 12 on their XXXNT? Please respound!

[Sike]

Hey guys, Does anybody know the exact size for the engine mounting screw? I don't want to spend the $14 just for the screws.

-TIA!

[dkj-M3]

LosiGTX- I have the RS12 R2, it bolted right in like the instructions said. no problems, the idle screw doesn't even touch the transmission brace.

What do you mean by "Flex Plate"

[waterboy]

Does anyone have any suggestions on where to get the drake kit at the cheapest price? Any websites or # would be appreciated. My LHS doesn't support Losi, only associated.

[rcboy618]

ELITE HOBBIES in covina california. he has great deals on kits.

i also have a drake for sale. adam drake editon with os cv, trinity parts, new unpainted drake body, extra shock springs, and about 7 or 8 sets of tires. this truck has only been ran in 2 races, the norrca offroad nationals in hemet and the hotrodhobbies shootout. it has never been club raced or practiced on, i had another truck for that. i will let it go for $300.00 i have pics so if your interested please email me at ch0wmain@hotmail.com

i also have a xxx-nt roller plus bodies, extra parts, threaded shocks, and titanium turnbuckles. $150.00

[FastFreddy]

Before you buy a temp gun at your LHS, look on eBay under "Infrared thermometer". I bought a really nice one for $30.00 there...retailed for $175.00. Works like a charm and very accurate. FYI...FF

[LosiGTX]

Flex Plate is the small brace that keeps the back of the chasis from flexing say after landing a large jump, otherwise the chasis plate can snap, and it easily happens without the flex plate (the RC10 GT does not have a flex plate for its chasis is thicker and more durable). I would like to talk to u further about your engine setup so maybe you can send me ur e-mail or something. Mine is i3reakdance@aol.com. Do you have any pictures of ur truck with the engine installed? Please let me know.

[rcboy618]

actually the xnt chassis is thicker then the associated one.

the chassis wont actually snap without the stiffener bar, but it will strip the spur gear, just like the old tub chassis associated. reason why the new associated still strip spur gear is because the chassis has stiffeners on one side of the chassis and not the other, so when the chassis twist the spur gear strips. some racing buddy's and i are testing out some stiffeners for the other side of the chassis. so far it's been working. but why would you guys care right? =)

[Got Speed]

Scrad- If you could post a picture that would be great!:)

Well, I just got back from my trip to so cal!:D It was awesome! I ended up having to get an engine the day before I went because my other one wasn't working.:eek: So I got a .12 CV-R w/slide carb. I broke in the engine and didn't have any troubles with the diff or anything on the car(other than I glued my antenna inside the antenna tube, and I can't get it out :rolleyes: ) The Dirt was unbelieveable! Lots of elvation changes with jumps put in just the right spots. Pro Line was pretty big with alot of challenging jumps. I only entered one race while I was out there at extreme RPM. I couldn't believe it, I got 2nd place! :) :D :cool:

[Nutter]

Dare I ask how you glued your antenna inside the tube? :p hehe
Why'd you go with a slide carb for your new engine also? Most people use rotary carbs for offroad because they're easier to control.

It's great to hear that you got second place though! Congrats :)


-Nutter

[Got Speed]

LOL, the tube kept popping out so I glued it in, when I glued it more came out than I expected and got on the antenna.:rolleyes: now what to do:confused: :p

I like the slide carb alot more than the rotary carb. There is an offroad version of the slide carb you can get. IMO it gives quicker smoother throttle response. What do you mean easier to control?

Thanks

[banditwing]

Hey Guys, what do you think of the HiTech HS-625MG (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXUZ88&P=7) servo? Seems like a great deal. And definatly enough torq on 4.8v, not to mention 6.

Only thing I'm worried about is having to get another servo arm, or will the one included with the sport fit it ok? Im talking for steering.

[DsWright]

Im not a big fan of hitec servos, i have had some problems with them in the past, if you want a great servo, by an airtronics digital. They are around 110$ but it's like 120 oz/in of tourqe and a trasit time of .06 seconds.

This is what i run in my XXX-NT now and i love it.

[banditwing]

Haha, that's quite a bit over what I'm willing to spend. What was your expierience with them? I have heard rumors that the analog ones didn't center too well, but the digital ones were fine. I just want something a step up from my s3003, with about 80+ oz-in of torq, and an ok transit time, I think the transit time in my s3003 is ok on 6v. Also preferably metal geared, although I have yet to strip a plastic one. There I just jinxed myself:eek: Also something not expensive, like $45 and under. Thats why the hitechs caught my eye, I'd just be using it for bashing, but I am looking for more performance that my s3003.

Thanks for your reply

[LosiGTX]

I was wondering if you guys could list which engines you have in your XXXNT's. I want to know if anyone has installed a Nova Rossi Rs .12 engine without much difficulty. Iam not talking about the mugan .12, but the Nova Rossi rs .12 because they have a very large carburator and I had great difficulty installing one in my GTX but looking at the XXXNT it seems my engine just might fit but I want to hear from the people who know.

[Crashbot2001]

Originally posted by banditwing
Hey Guys, what do you think of the HiTech HS-625MG (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXUZ88&P=7) servo? Seems like a great deal. And definatly enough torq on 4.8v, not to mention 6.

Only thing I'm worried about is having to get another servo arm, or will the one included with the sport fit it ok? Im talking for steering.

Check out the Hitech HS-645MG, a little stronger, same price. Also, you might consider buying it here (http://www.servocity.com/Products/Hitec_Servos_/HS-645MG_Ultra_Torque/hs-645mg_ultra_torque.html) Free Priority Mail shipping, and same price as tower, plus you can specify the type of connector you want

If you don;t like that one, they also carry the 625 ...here (http://www.servocity.com/Products/Hitec_Servos_/HS-625MG_Ultra_Speed/hs-625mg_ultra_speed.html)

I too had a problem with centering.. I pulled the 645 out of my truck and it sat. I put it in my buggy(for lack of another servo to use) and there were no problems.. turned out it was the servo saver that was giving me the problem.. It was turning on the servo gear on hard impacts.. Piece o' YKW Servo Saver

[banditwing]

Did you have it in your XNT? Isn't the servo saver on the bellcrank? I think I need to buy a new servo arm that fit's Hitech servo's, right? Thanks, I think I might consider either the 625 or the 645. I think that 93 oz of torq should definatly be sufficiant, plus it has the extra speed, which is nice. When you say the 645 is stronger do you mean that it lasts longer, or just has more torq? I might get the 625mg and then maybe a cheap towerhobbies plastic geared with 70oz of torq for throttle/brake.

Thanks a lot for the help!:)

[Crashbot2001]

No, I didn;t have it on my XXXNT, I had it on my Nitro Rustler.. Should wourk fine on the XXXNT.

By stronger I meant the increased torque.. The 625 surely has enough torque for the XXXNT, and it's pretty quick too

I wouldn;t bother with the Throttle/Brake servo, unless you just want a new servo.. It doesn;t take much force to apply the throttle or the brake. Hi speed might be good, but I dunno..

[FastFreddy]

Thanks for the link to Servo City...looks like a good site! FF

[Crashbot2001]

No problem Freddy. they are great folks.. Good prices and fast, free shipping. Can't beat that. I think Roy from RD Racing Products gave me the link originally. they don;t advertise so spread the word.

[banditwing]

Thanks for the help, I think I will go with the HS-625, It should have enough torq. I will probly order off tower, as I need to get some crystals too.

Thanks

[Got Speed]

I just got a 645 MG and I like it alot more than the cirrus or one of those other cheap high torque servos, mainly because of the transit time. I race with it and I don't really think I need a $150 servo. It works great, and sure a real expensive top-of-the-line servo would be nice but I can't afford spend $150 on a servo especially when this one works so well for so little.

If the sport dosn't come with the other servo arms you will have to buy them. I think it is $4.50 for the throttle and steering servo mounts and arms.

[groy]

What aluminum part's if any do they have for the drake kit? I'm looking for bearing carriers and rear hub carriers, and any other's that you can think of. Thanks

[DsWright]

groy- Drake answered your ? on the trinity boards=) Trinity make a ton of stuff, look at the products on their site=)

[LosiGTX]

Losi XXXNT Help!
XXXNT Help!
Does anyone know if the RS .12 will fit into the XXNT? .

Hi I have a brand new Nova Rossi RS .12 engine that i took out of my GTX after a friend crashed it into a curb. I dont want to spend lots of $ to rebuild my GTX, but would rather buy the new Losi XXXNT. Does anyone know if the RS .12 will fit into the XXNT? When I installed it into my Losi GTX, I had to remove the transmission brace and was not very happy with doing that. Please help! I would like to go buy my XXXNT Adam Drake Edition this weekend if possible, but need to know if my engine will fit first!!! The guys at the local hobby shops cant give me a straight anser. Iam not talking about the Mugan or similar models but the RS .12 witht the large carburator.

[tarvymoto]

GTX , I have a RS 12 in my Drake. Fits fine.

[groy]

Thanks DsWright.

[DsWright]

Well even though they burned me in the past, i decided to give hitec servos another try....

I bought a digital 125 oz/in at 6v and transit of .08 sec @ 6v for about 85$ on servocity, not bad at all.

I just hope it can handle the abuse i usually put all my servos through......

This is almost identical specs to my airtronics digital that cost me about 120$..... But that airtronics has been through hell and back, without a problem or complaint.

It's gonna be steering my ofna 9.5 buggy, so if there is any way to break this servo, that will do it=) It already claimed 2 gear sets of my JR Z4750 i had in there till i got a digital.

[LosiGTX]

TARVYMOTO:

Are you running a slide or rotary Carb? Will the XXXNT accomodate slide carbs? Also what size crankshaft are you using? Thanks for the input!

[tarvymoto]

GTX , my RS 12 has a rotary carb and standard, uncut , threaded crankshaft. Slide carbs do work fine for an NT. I have a rear exhaust Picco w/ a slide carb in my other NT , which is the truck I drive for practice and club races.

[Got Speed]

LosiGTX- I am using a slide carb .12 CV-R. It comes with the linkages for either slide or rotary.

I just made a 5 cell reciever pack from 1.2V AA NiCads. I know they usually put out more than 6V when fully charged but is it alright to be putting 7V into the reciever?

[tarvymoto]

Gotspeed , you should be fine with anything 5 cells can throw at a RX

[Crashbot2001]

Have you guys seen the Mugen? Unbelievable whow much it resembles the XXXNT...

[RD Racing]

Yes I have.

The steering is different. The bell cranks are perpedicular to the lower and upper chassis and not angled with the caster kickup like the Losi. There are many othe differences but yes it is very similar.

Roy

[Crashbot2001]

Hey Roy, I need a bumper for my MBX!! lol

[pureluc]

Well, yesterday I got to work and I opened my trunk to show a buddy my xxx, and it was gone with 2 big boxes of parts and my thunderquake. The punks even took my fuel. The good thing is I have almost $2200 in reciepts, so insurance will cover after 500 deductable. I know who it is but cant prove anything...:mad: :mad:

[pureluc]

I found a ready to race for 450 and it looks new (they say on the phone anyway), is this worth it. It has radio xr3, and a o.s.p. motor. thanks

[Crashbot2001]

450? depends.. What motor? Any upgrades? you can get a new drake kit for 300, a CVR for 125, then you would just need electronics.. You can get an airtronics m-3 for about 130..

[winning edge designs]

Wow, all of a sudden i'm getting E mails from the thread again. Glad to see it's still going strong!............Jim

[Nutter]

Hey whaddya know, Jim's still alive after all! :D :p Weird that you're just starting to get emails again.

Roy: The difference in the steering is most likely because Losi has a patent on their steering design.


-Nutter

[Chase Marten]

i was just wondering,what is like the best .12 engine i can ut in the xxx-nt and a one that doesn' have much flaws? :confused:

[winning edge designs]

Hey nutter, whats up?

Chase, It all depends on your desire for speed vs. reliabilty, cost, etc. For the reliability part, nothing seems better then an O.S. For shear power and rpm, Novarossi or RB is the ticket(all Mugen,RB,HPI and others are Novarossi based or machined by them). I just changed out my CV-R for a C12 RB engine. The carb doesn't seem quite as good, but power is far superior, not even close. Maybe a bad thing on slippery tracks?..............Jim

[Chase Marten]

well what is better? like if u have a quiet pipe or a loud pipe? and does it make a difference? because i was lookin a getting a cvec... and i just want to kno what is the best for like acceleration and higher speeds.

[winning edge designs]

Chase, I thought you were asking about engines specifically.
If you wondering which pipe, you'll need to know if your planning to do much club racing. If you are the Cvec pipe isn't Roar legal if Roar is req'd by your track.
For sheer power noise level, etc. there are alot of potential pipes to have. For instance on a low traction track with a long straight i'd stick with a TeamLosi "drake" pipe, or an O'donnel pipe or a picco pro style pipe. These have the smoothest low end, imo. So you'd want to look for a pipe with a shallow taper at the inlet end (nearest the header).
For a high bite track, or with aggressive jumps to try and clear, short straights, etc. you'd want a pipe with a more aggressive taper at the inlet end(divergence cone). such as the Associated pipe, Fantom pipe, etc.............Then there is the length of the header, coupler and other variables.
I try to always error on the conservative side, since the differences aren't too important on the club level. It's more important that you can run consistant laps first, none are really "better"...........Jim

[Crashbot2001]

Woohoo! My second race experience..

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid31/p277d896987e20ec883d9c1374971302b/fd4b4697.jpg

Many faster motors there than my about dead CZ, but I was able to control myself and drive within my abilities. It paid off!
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid31/p8a176503d204907610c700369e4ce6bb/fd4b469b.jpg

What a blast!

[winning edge designs]

Truck looks good, 3rd place is pretty good for the second time at the track, good job!.......The new body on the drake truck is sweet too isn't it?.......Jim

[tarvymoto]

Jim , have you had a chance to paint many Drake NT bodies? I love'm

[groy]

Engine decision's? I want a side exhaust, rotary carb I would like it to be composite but it dont have to be. Lots o' HP and some real RPM. Quality and tuneable are a must. I have been looking into the Novarossi's, Trinity/Picco's, Fantom, Orion Wasp, Sirio, Collari and RB Concepts etc. So all these are getting me confused and some of them dont have what I want but after looking at them all I forgot which one's do and dont so someone might know off hand of one. This will go in the Adam drake kit of course so any help please please help me decide on a real choice engine price isnt a problem. I would like one that has made a name for itself threw quality and being durable, not just the new thing out. Thank's in advance to all for the help.

[rcboy618]

well the nova's, trinity's(orion's are the same motor, piccos), and rb have proven to be good motors. now fantom, sirio and collari are really new so no one has really won with these in gas trucks. i had a collari and it sucked ass, heard bad things about the sirios, and i have never heard anything about the fantoms yet. you should try the orion/trinity picco's. there great motors. and if you really want power you could also get them modified by people that does it for pros. conrad amezcua does it for people like adam drake, his son travis, ME, and alot others. there is a fee for a mod job on a motor unless your sponsored or get hooked up by them. i just recently bought the orion .12 wasp, i sent it to conrad, so when i get it back i'll fill you guys in on how it is. it should have tons of power because of the mod job that its getting. im also not running the stock carb, im going to be running the o.s. one, just because i know it will stay tuned and work.

[LosiGTX]

Just picked up the new drake kit yesterday. Built 70% of it today. This thing is gonna haul with my RS .12 strapped in it.

[Crashbot2001]

Groy, For reliability and tunability, the OS engines are hard to beat. The OS CVR is really an awesome engine. If has lots of RPMs, plenty of power, very easy to tune, very consistant, holds a tune very well, and you can get them for under $150.

[kdh77]

does the xxx-nt use a cut crank on the motor like assoc and traxxas or standard length?

[Got Speed]

It uses a standard crank. I have a CV-R and It's great! plenty of power and speed. The mugens, novarosis, piccos, collaris, orions, ect ... are a little faster and more powerful but it's really not a whole lot of difference.

[KEVIN-RTR]

whats up guys? i'm running into a new problem ... engine is running great, when it runs .... it starts starts running great ... and 20 or 30 seconds later it dies ... i've had it die full throttle, mid throttle, putting the breaks on, in the air ... it doesn't seem to be in a consistant spot ... its like the rpm dies and it bogs for 5 seconds and then dies ... any ideas for a cure?

[Got Speed]

Does it die when you hit the gas, at idle, when you get to around the mid throttle range? Is it difficult to start? How old is the engine? How does it sound before it stalls?

[KEVIN-RTR]

i have about 1 gallon of use in the engine ... it seems to happen right after i jump or run hard ... it will be screaming just fine then the rpm's go down to next to nothing in a split second and it bogs to a stop ... i was thinking maybe a fuel flow problem? i don't know ... its not hard to start ... it will start right up again ... it will just die in strange non consistant places in any rpm range ... its so strange cause i will re-tune the carb ... and the same problem is there ... its running great for 30 seconds then the rpm is down to nothing and its bogging hard and will not accelerate out of it and when i let off the gas it dies ...

[Got Speed]

I think your engine may be going out. Many "sport"(RTR) engines will run well for about a gallon then go out. I think you need a new piston and sleeve or a new engine. A new engine is probably a better idea because it will last longer.:(

[KEVIN-RTR]

so you think its a loss of compression that could be causing that?

[Got Speed]

yes, if you have any good engine to compare it to compare the compression

[groy]

Can someone give me some pro's and con's of both rear and side exhausts it will be going into the Adam Drake kit. Thanks.

[winning edge designs]

Tarvy, Ya, i've painted quite a few, in fact i'm bringing some painted bodies to Oklahoma with me as well.

Groy, the O.S. is the easiest as far trouble from tuning. The others can be as good, but don't seem to be quite as nailed down yet, or consitant. But they make a little more power then an O.S. does. The RB, Novarossi are very similar engines, both machined by novarossi. The Picco, Trinity, Orion engines are all picco made. The sirio is just too expensive, imo, and doesn't do anything much better to justify the high price, again, imo. I would say if your decent at tuning and crave the extra HP go with a Novarossi based or Picco based engine. If not stick with the O.S.

Kevin, i'd look very closely at fuel lines and tank seams. It sounds like your getting a BIG hit of air, leaning out then stalling. You could also be very lean, but that would usually take more then 30 seconds to show up. That symptom would be running great for a fe