Team Losi XXXNT forum v3.0

[FastFreddy]

Originally posted by Got Speed


I'm really picky about keeping mine clean too, but it takes so long for me to clean it. To take half of the thing apart and scrub with toothbrushes, Q-tips, rags, cotton balls, ect everything down with denatured alchol, water, and simple green. Ive used an air brush twice and got it equally as clean in about 5 minutes. How do you clean yours?

I unplug the battery pack, put a cover over the carb and spray it well with alcohol. then if it is really dirty I will blow it off with an air compressor. When I have it apart for repair I will use "spray Nine" and rinse it with HOT water. The water evaporates quickly when hot.

[Nutter]

I think I'm about as fussy as they come when it comes to cleaning my RC's... I clean them all the way down to taking the shields off of all the bearings.. every time. :p


-Nutter

[Got Speed]

I really need to get an air compressor. It makes it sooo much easier to clean. I like to clean mine after every night of racing. It always drives better, lasts longer, and most importantly looks better :p .

Nutter: lol the shields off the bearings! :p I ususlly just rinse mine, scrub them, then spray with WD-40. lol

[banditwing]

Hey guys, got my Xnt back up and running nice and rich. A quick question on how to fill the shocks...

What I usually do is unscrew the bottom, fill with oil up to the threads, then place the bottom back on with the piston about 1/4 inch away from the bottom seals, then screw the seals in about 3 full turns, then push the shock shaft down until almost the bottom. Then tighten down, and see if I can bottom out the shock, if not, then I will go back and unscrew and bleed some more out. I finally tighten hand tight, then about 1/6-1/4 turn tighter. When I move the shock, no oil is escaping. The shock seems pretty filled, but there is still air. How can I get the air out? Or build them without air? Tell me the secret to filling shocks please!:D

[Crashbot2001]

Bandit, I could be wrong, I'm no shock expert, but I think there's supposed to be a little bit of air in them. I always leave a bit in them anyway. Never had any problems.. I fill them almost completely, then bleed some out until they will compress completely If you bleed oil out, air is going in so you end up with the same results.

hey guys, I keep mine pretty clean too. usually just an air compressor though. If I pull the engine for any reason, I'll usually clean it up real good while I have it out. Otherwise a good blasting with the air comp. at the end of the day usually does the trick.

[Got Speed]

Ive been trying to find the trick to filling shocks for quite a while now. So far the best way I have found with the losi shocks is to: Push the piston all the way up in the cap, then push the piston into the shock body until it stops, let it sit for about 10 minutes then come back and slowly screw the cap all the way in. This is how Ive done my shocks now for the past couple of oil changes and have gotten nearly perfect shocks.

[Clod_Killer]

Here's how I do shocks. I full them to the threads, install the cartridge and tighen till its all the way in, back off 1 turn, push the shaft in all the way, and quickly tighten with the shaft all the way in. They feel silky smooth every time.

[banditwing]

So I guess it's a "What works for you" kind of thing? I guess I have to experiment with them myself.

I love JB weld, I just fixed a broken suspension arm that broke at the hinge pin with it to use as a spare.:D

[Got Speed]

Im pretty sure there has got to be one or more ways to fill your shocks "perfect". I usually try something a little different every time I fill my shocks. Whatever works.

[banditwing]

I haven't gotten around to taking off the clutch/flywheel yet: But what type of shaft/ crank accepts the Losi clutch/flywheel assembly.

Also anyone know what type of shaft the mach .15 is?

My Mach has been running not to well latlely, so Im thinking of just buying a new engine.

Would this engine fit. Work ok? I know its onroad, but still...
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAGD0&P=7

What about this?http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXXA45&P=7

I could go either PS or no PS (Pullstart not Pilot shaft) but preferably with because I may have to wait to get a starter box. Or Hobbico torqmaster with a rubber car insert wheel.


What do you guys think of the CV. Everyone has been putting it down and saying go for the CVR, but It's less money, and the piston/sleeve is only $20, compared to $65 for cvr.


If I got a slide carb i'm pretty sure I would need a new linkage set, correct?

[winning edge designs]

4 play, to add to what has been said already....Imo, the Drake truck outhandles the GT by enough of a margin to make it a better choice hands down. I do think the inner camber link ball studs should have washers underneath to add durability and the slipper adjustmanet is Very important as well. Other then that the two are Very close in durability. I have seen both trucks break in races, so neither is unbreakable, after all they are both plastic trucks going 35mph into boards, ankles and other trucks sometimes? LOL.........You'll like the Drake edition a ton, it's an awesome truck,Jim

[winning edge designs]

4 play, to add to what has been said already....Imo, the Drake truck outhandles the GT by enough of a margin to make it a better choice hands down. I do think the inner camber link ball studs should have washers underneath to add durability and the slipper adjustmanet is Very important as well. Other then that the two are Very close in durability. I have seen both trucks break in races, so neither is unbreakable, after all they are both plastic trucks going 35mph into boards, ankles and other trucks sometimes? LOL.........You'll like the Drake edition a ton, it's an awesome truck,Jim

[winning edge designs]

4 play, to add to what has been said already....Imo, the Drake truck outhandles the GT by enough of a margin to make it a better choice hands down. I do think the inner camber link ball studs should have washers underneath to add durability and the slipper adjustmanet is Very important as well. Other then that the two are Very close in durability. I have seen both trucks break in races, so neither is unbreakable, after all they are both plastic trucks going 35mph into boards, ankles and other trucks sometimes? LOL.........You'll like the Drake edition a ton, it's an awesome truck,Jim

[winning edge designs]

4 play, to add to what has been said already....Imo, the Drake truck outhandles the GT by enough of a margin to make it a better choice hands down. I do think the inner camber link ball studs should have washers underneath to add durability and the slipper adjustmanet is Very important as well. Other then that the two are Very close in durability. I have seen both trucks break in races, so neither is unbreakable, after all they are both plastic trucks going 35mph into boards, ankles and other trucks sometimes? LOL.........You'll like the Drake edition a ton, it's an awesome truck,Jim

[winning edge designs]

4 play, to add to what has been said already....Imo, the Drake truck outhandles the GT by enough of a margin to make it a better choice hands down. I do think the inner camber link ball studs should have washers underneath to add durability and the slipper adjustmanet is Very important as well. Other then that the two are Very close in durability. I have seen both trucks break in races, so neither is unbreakable, after all they are both plastic trucks going 35mph into boards, ankles and other trucks sometimes? LOL.........You'll like the Drake edition a ton, it's an awesome truck,Jim

[winning edge designs]

4 play, to add to what has been said already....Imo, the Drake truck outhandles the GT by enough of a margin to make it a better choice hands down. I do think the inner camber link ball studs should have washers underneath to add durability and the slipper adjustmanet is Very important as well. Other then that the two are Very close in durability. I have seen both trucks break in races, so neither is unbreakable, after all they are both plastic trucks going 35mph into boards, ankles and other trucks sometimes? LOL.........You'll like the Drake edition a ton, it's an awesome truck,Jim

[winning edge designs]

4 play, to add to what has been said already....Imo, the Drake truck outhandles the GT by enough of a margin to make it a better choice hands down. I do think the inner camber link ball studs should have washers underneath to add durability and the slipper adjustmanet is Very important as well. Other then that the two are Very close in durability. I have seen both trucks break in races, so neither is unbreakable, after all they are both plastic trucks going 35mph into boards, ankles and other trucks sometimes? LOL.........You'll like the Drake edition a ton, it's an awesome truck,Jim

[winning edge designs]

4 play, to add to what has been said already....Imo, the Drake truck outhandles the GT by enough of a margin to make it a better choice hands down. I do think the inner camber link ball studs should have washers underneath to add durability and the slipper adjustmanet is Very important as well. Other then that the two are Very close in durability. I have seen both trucks break in races, so neither is unbreakable, after all they are both plastic trucks going 35mph into boards, ankles and other trucks sometimes? LOL.........You'll like the Drake edition a ton, it's an awesome truck,Jim

[winning edge designs]

4 play, to add to what has been said already....Imo, the Drake truck outhandles the GT by enough of a margin to make it a better choice hands down. I do think the inner camber link ball studs should have washers underneath to add durability and the slipper adjustmanet is Very important as well. Other then that the two are Very close in durability. I have seen both trucks break in races, so neither is unbreakable, after all they are both plastic trucks going 35mph into boards, ankles and other trucks sometimes? LOL.........You'll like the Drake edition a ton, it's an awesome truck,Jim

[winning edge designs]

4 play, to add to what has been said already....Imo, the Drake truck outhandles the GT by enough of a margin to make it a better choice hands down. I do think the inner camber link ball studs should have washers underneath to add durability and the slipper adjustmanet is Very important as well. Other then that the two are Very close in durability. I have seen both trucks break in races, so neither is unbreakable, after all they are both plastic trucks going 35mph into boards, ankles and other trucks sometimes? LOL.........You'll like the Drake edition a ton, it's an awesome truck,Jim

[winning edge designs]

4 play, to add to what has been said already....Imo, the Drake truck outhandles the GT by enough of a margin to make it a better choice hands down. I do think the inner camber link ball studs should have washers underneath to add durability and the slipper adjustmanet is Very important as well. Other then that the two are Very close in durability. I have seen both trucks break in races, so neither is unbreakable, after all they are both plastic trucks going 35mph into boards, ankles and other trucks sometimes? LOL.........You'll like the Drake edition a ton, it's an awesome truck,Jim

[winning edge designs]

4 play, to add to what has been said already....Imo, the Drake truck outhandles the GT by enough of a margin to make it a better choice hands down. I do think the inner camber link ball studs should have washers underneath to add durability and the slipper adjustmanet is Very important as well. Other then that the two are Very close in durability. I have seen both trucks break in races, so neither is unbreakable, after all they are both plastic trucks going 35mph into boards, ankles and other trucks sometimes? LOL.........You'll like the Drake edition a ton, it's an awesome truck,Jim

[winning edge designs]

4 play, to add to what has been said already....Imo, the Drake truck outhandles the GT by enough of a margin to make it a better choice hands down. I do think the inner camber link ball studs should have washers underneath to add durability and the slipper adjustmanet is Very important as well. Other then that the two are Very close in durability. I have seen both trucks break in races, so neither is unbreakable, after all they are both plastic trucks going 35mph into boards, ankles and other trucks sometimes? LOL.........You'll like the Drake edition a ton, it's an awesome truck,Jim

[groy]

Woah! Evacuation Com,

Evacuation Comple,

Evacuation Complete

[dkj-M3]

OK Jim we get the point. LOL:D :D :D :D :D

[Racin Rev]

Looks like the thread is showing a little instability again. :rolleyes:

[purplerides]

hey Jim , hopefully i'll be heading down to your neck of the woods for the gas nats. , are familiar with that track? , what tires do you expect will work for 1/10th scale and 1/8th scale , is it a hard pack or loamy track especially with that type of traffic on it.

[Crashbot2001]

Originally posted by banditwing
I haven't gotten around to taking off the clutch/flywheel yet: But what type of shaft/ crank accepts the Losi clutch/flywheel assembly.

Also anyone know what type of shaft the mach .15 is?

My Mach has been running not to well latlely, so Im thinking of just buying a new engine.

Would this engine fit. Work ok? I know its onroad, but still...
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAGD0&P=7

What about this?http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXXA45&P=7

I could go either PS or no PS (Pullstart not Pilot shaft) but preferably with because I may have to wait to get a starter box. Or Hobbico torqmaster with a rubber car insert wheel.


What do you guys think of the CV. Everyone has been putting it down and saying go for the CVR, but It's less money, and the piston/sleeve is only $20, compared to $65 for cvr.


If I got a slide carb i'm pretty sure I would need a new linkage set, correct?

Bandit, The engines you linked are both OS 12 CVRs, one with pull start, one without, both with slide carb. The CVRs are really good engines. Plenty of power and speed for most of us. but, Unless you are pretty good with throttle control and have a good throttle servo that is very smooth, I would avoid the slide carb version. Slide carbs respond a lot more like on/off switches than rotary carbs do. Tower offers the CVR with a rotary carb HERE (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXUJ72&P=C)

but it's more expensive. Way more expensinve if you add the pull start. You could probably learn to use the slide carb but it would take a while to get used to. You would need a new throttle linkage, but it would probably only be a few bucks.

On a side note, has anyone noticed that tower states the needle settings for the OS .12 CVRX with 10E low needle at 2-1/2 turns in from flush, while the non pull start, they state oly 1/2 turn in from flush.

I don;t think they should even put it on there, as obviously, typos can occur and cause someone who doesn't know better to have some serious problems. The engines come with manuals for a reason..lol

[Got Speed]

I have the slide carb in mine. It says onroad only because it is the slide carb version. If you normally use a rotary carb it will take some getting use to but I like mine alot. It's real snappy.:D

[winning edge designs]

Hahaha,Oops on the multi-post deal, sorry dudes.

Purplerides, I haven't raced at the Miami track myself yet. But I know a bunch of guys who have. They say M2 Crimefighters or Panthers (med or soft) in 1/8th and step pins in the main for truck, Ifmar pins maybe for qualifying? If it gets good enough. The surface is fairly decent pack, but a little slippery on top if not wet. We'll have to see what they do for the race.

In Oklahoma at the RC Pro Finals last week, thier track had a demanding layout and a loose surface, similar to most large gas races. After the rain, it was "hooked up" though! I think this track will be similar, but with an easier layout.............Jim

[GiantScale]

Iv been trying to make a educated decision & need some help. I like the losi, but my experiance with a older XXT has me worried. Horizon does not supply parts for older trucks:mad:

When will they discontinue parts for the XXXNT ???

The rc10gt is proven & no problem with parts..

Ill be damed if I have to put my XXXNT away like my XXT because I cant get parts! Whats the deal with horizon?

Anyway, XXXNT or rc10gt ??

Thanks

Mike

[Nutter]

GiantScale: I guess you somehow missed WED's 13 posts near the top of this page.......... :p

Originally posted by winning edge designs
4 play, to add to what has been said already....Imo, the Drake truck outhandles the GT by enough of a margin to make it a better choice hands down. I do think the inner camber link ball studs should have washers underneath to add durability and the slipper adjustmanet is Very important as well. Other then that the two are Very close in durability. I have seen both trucks break in races, so neither is unbreakable, after all they are both plastic trucks going 35mph into boards, ankles and other trucks sometimes? LOL.........You'll like the Drake edition a ton, it's an awesome truck,Jim

As for discontinued parts, you've got to remember that the XXT has been superceded for like 2 years now - racing RC's is like computers: when something's superceded, you can't expect it to be around forever as most people want the latest technology, so it's not viable for a company to keep manufacturing parts for an ever decreasing number of people.
I've got a XXT, but it's sitting here, unused for years.. it has some broken parts after I lent it to someone, but I'm not going to repair it. It has nothing to do with not being able to get the parts for it, I'm sure that I can if I look, but it's just old technology, it's not worth it. A lot (majority I'd say) of people are like that.

Having said that though, as Losi is bringing out a lot of RTR RC's now, you'll probably start to see the parts being made for much longer periods of time as bashers are less likely to upgrade to the latest & greatest than racers are, who are what Losi used to target nearly exclusively.


-Nutter

[banditwing]

If I get a carb restrictor, will that make it a little less snappy? Right now my Mach seems like a dog (not really, but I want a slide!).

Before I even put the slide in my xnt I'm getting an MX-3 and using the airtronics servo for my throttle. Maybe even get a restrictor too, not sure. If you use a restrictor, should you break it in with one?, or break it in without one and switch to it later on and retune your settings?

I run on a pretty high traction area(Grass, Med packed dirt), so with some step pins I don't think traction should be a prob:)

Your saying it's an on/off feel? Hmm, is Airtronics Base servo (90412 I think) a smooth servo? My cousin has it in his B3 as his steering and it's super smooth it seems. Will a restrictor soften the feel?

What I like about this is that it's low cost. I might even get an "early" christmas present for myself:D once my Mach stops chuggin.

Will the "Extra" snap reak havok on the tranny? I think I've finnaly ironed out the problems I've been having and learned how to build the transmission properly. (Oh and about that clicking problem, I looked inside, the gears were Slightly stripped as I and others suspected, but I decided there was enough gear left to have the tranny something to grasp. I rebuilt it with the diff washer on the right side and now the tranny seems solid and have had no problems so far. Although it spins with a little more resistance than before, it's not the end of the world.


Thanks for the help, sorry for so many questions and my boring post:rolleyes: :D

[banditwing]

Oh almost forgot, what type of crank does the losi clutch accept? If I get a CVR Slide, should I bump it up to a 19t clutch bell?

If I do get this engine, the next thing im getting is a temp gun. No way I'm ruining this engine too.:p

Thanks again

-Banditwing

[GiantScale]

Im having a hard time finding offroad nitro big race results.

Can anyone post some links to some of the latest championships etc..

Thanks

Mike

[dkj-M3]

CRCRC 7th. Annual Indoor Gas Championships (http://www.crcrc.com/results/20012002/0126.txt)

[jdm3849]

On sunday I was jumping all day long, we had 2 wooden ramps on top of eachother, it was about a 3 foot tall jump with a big "lip". I would come full speed down the street and cut into the yard, then i would hit the jump and get major air. I was jumping over four people standing up (one being 6'3"), I was getting about 9-10 feet in the air but only like 8' far. I jumped that big one about 10 times and my last jump I nose dived and I broke a front a-arm where it attaches to the hinge pin. Its weird but I broke the arm on the last tank of my gallon. So I need to know what I should get, graphite or plastic? And how much does a a-arm set of graphite and plastic cost? I kind of want graphite just so i can say I have graphite. ( I like how it says graphite on it too.)

[waterboy]

My local track was recently changed from a tight-lots of turns, jumps, and lower speeds into a very open layout with more straightaways and high speeds. I have been using an 18t clutch bell and 51t spur gear. Since the track allows for more top end speeds should I go up to a larger clutch bell(19t)? I run a picco .12 engine. I'm trying to get dialed in for a big race, thanks for your help

[RD Racing]

jdm3849,

If you are going to keep jumping this way then you will have better chance of a plastic a arm surviving than a graphite a arm.

Roy

[GiantScale]

I know who Adam Drake is, but Im a newbie & donk know who drives what.

Mike

[dkj-M3]

Most of (if not all) were losi in the A-main. At CRCRC Losi's outnumber Asso. 10/1

[purplerides]

Banditwing - going up to a 19t should help soften the bottom end , the CV-R should have plenty of power to pull that gear , just be aware of the motor temp. over gearing will cause excessive heat if your doing a lot of slow speed driving , but with the XXXNT it should be a problem with a 19t due to it's low tranny gear ratio.

The XXXNT will accept threaded crankshafts only , do not get a SG shaft motor it will not fit.

[dkj-M3]

what if you cut the SG shaft, will the clutch nut fit?

[purplerides]

no the thread is different

[morfracerX]

Hey losi folks, i am an old nxt driver and loved the truck. I will be getting a x^3NT soon and had a qustioin about somthing i heard about.

A few guys around my track where talking about the 3xnt having a bad rear shock tower and that it kept snaping during rac4es. i wanted to know if there was any truth to this and if so how do i fix this small problem?


Thanks guys.

[winning edge designs]

Morf, The old origional XXX-Nt kits had some tower problems, since the body mounts to the rear tower if you landed upside down on the rear of the truck, it snapped. Or at the very least cracked. They have since updated it as TeamLosi does when they find out about racers troubles. The new tower is braced in the upper webbing where it most commonly would break. It is still possible to break a new tower, but in most racers opinions, if you wreck bad enough to break the updated parts, you've got trouble,:). I have yet to break a new style tower in a year.

Bandit, the picco likes to rev, but i'd try one tooth higher if there aren't alot of jumps needing heavy acceleration. Such as just after a turn, etc. If one tooth works, Losi also makes a 20? hmmm. Maybe worth a try........Jim

[jcnmt]

sup man where you race at?

[banditwing]

Um, well I'm not getting a Picco, but I am getting an OS CVR and I also heard they like to rev. Looks like I'll keep it stock clutch bell, because my track will be short with maybe a short straightaway and some jumps that are quite close.

Thanks for the Help!

[morfracerX]

Thanks edge you just helped me make up my mind on my new truck.


I will be getting one off e-bay ( i'm cheap), how can i tellif it has the new shock tower or old? and if it has the old one can i just upgrade to the new one or will i have to do some more moding?


Thanks

[diesel757]

no moding, just take out a few screws and swop it with the new one

[Racin Rev]

morfracerX,
oooh, that green text is really hard to read, I suggest a switch to something more eye friendly. :)

[morfracerX]

why is it no one likes my MATRIX green text? o well seagreen will have to do. :D :D

[Racin Rev]

much nicer.

[purplerides]

morf - the new tower fits right on , same part # too , it was a running change during production .

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by banditwing
If I get a carb restrictor, will that make it a little less snappy? Right now my Mach seems like a dog (not really, but I want a slide!).

Before I even put the slide in my xnt I'm getting an MX-3 and using the airtronics servo for my throttle. Maybe even get a restrictor too, not sure. If you use a restrictor, should you break it in with one?, or break it in without one and switch to it later on and retune your settings?

I run on a pretty high traction area(Grass, Med packed dirt), so with some step pins I don't think traction should be a prob:)

Your saying it's an on/off feel? Hmm, is Airtronics Base servo (90412 I think) a smooth servo? My cousin has it in his B3 as his steering and it's super smooth it seems. Will a restrictor soften the feel?

What I like about this is that it's low cost. I might even get an "early" christmas present for myself:D once my Mach stops chuggin.

Will the "Extra" snap reak havok on the tranny? I think I've finnaly ironed out the problems I've been having and learned how to build the transmission properly. (Oh and about that clicking problem, I looked inside, the gears were Slightly stripped as I and others suspected, but I decided there was enough gear left to have the tranny something to grasp. I rebuilt it with the diff washer on the right side and now the tranny seems solid and have had no problems so far. Although it spins with a little more resistance than before, it's not the end of the world.


Thanks for the help, sorry for so many questions and my boring post:rolleyes: :D

Yes a cab restrictor will reduce the bottom end punch. There are different sizes that allow you to adjust the amount of power your getting.

If you use a restrictor I would put it in after break-in and
then retune it. Restrictors richen your needle setttings.

A 19 tooth will give better top end and take away bottom end. I wouldn't run a 19 when breaking it in though.

Step Pins sound good maybe pink compound if you can find it.

The slide carb will fell more like it's "on/off" if your used to a rotarty carb but wen you get used to it, it has a very quick response and is very smooth. It just takes a few runs to get the feel for it because it is alot more sensiteve to throttle inputs. BTW: Im using a standard servo on mine and don't think Im going to get a high speed servo because if the throttle was pulled open any faster I think I would be doing the wah wah wah down the track.:p Instead maybe get a high torque servo for your steering. Hitec makes an inexpensive one that is metal geared, 133 oz/in torque, and .14 transit time? It's the MG-645.

The extra power you will get won't damage your tranny. Yes, it will wear if out faster but it dosn't hurt it in any way to run that engine in it. As long as you have your diff and slipper andjusted right and built the tranny right they should last you quite a while. I completely forgot my break in of the diff :eek because I was concerned with breaking in my CV-R but since I built it right I didn't and don't have any problems. But when you get a new engine I would deffinatly get some kind of temp gauge too and watch it very carfully. I by accident got my CV-R up to 270 during break in :eek: :eek: :eek:! So I shut it off let it cool and retuned it. Once I finished the break in I got a reliable and strong engine.

[banditwing]

Hm I think the MG-645 has somewhere in the upper teens of transit time. Something like .18 or so. I was thinking the MG-625, which still has 100 oz of torq, but a .14 transit time I think. My track is short and technical so the extra speed might be helpful.

Well right now Im using a futaba MJ on with s3003 servos, there ok for steering but I really need something better if I want to be more agile. For throttle, my s3003 does not have enough torque for brake it seems. My buddy who got the RTR with the JR sevos has enough brake to lock his wheels even if you press them down and pull them along the ground.

My Throttle is reallllly glitchy, I don't know why, It is like even when the car is off too. I can't seem to hold it at a steadty half or low throttle. It always will glitch off to the side and either top end or low ness.

So thats why I need an MX3! :D

Thanks a lot for the help!

[Got Speed]

lol it's a nice radio. Ive got an XR-3 too bad they didn't have
MX-3s when I got my XR-3. oh well, lol. Either way with the 625 or 645 it's going to be alot better than a stock servo. The new radio should solve your twitching problem. As for the brake which side is the spring on and which hole on the servo arm is the brake linkage on? Im using a standard hitec servo and don't really have problems with it. Im using the far outside hole and the spring is on the outside halfway compressed. [/B][/QUOTE]

[drdirt]

dkj-m3.........I see that your from the buckeye, and I was wondering if you could give me some info on 2003 gas nats. A website or an address to write to would be ok. I would like to go to that show but I don't know the date or who to contact about it.
Thanks for your time, Jim Cogill

[dkj-M3]

CRCRC (http://www.crcrc.com/)

They're not working on that until they're finished with The 2002 N.O.R.R.C.A. Electric Off-Road Nationals in Oct., but it WILL take place in Jan. Go to the forum for updates.

Darrell (KJ)

[morfracerX]

You guys are going to get sick of me.

I just got done reading a few pages of a thread on rcca (GT vx XXXNT) the guys there kept saying that the 3xnt breaks alot. i was also talking to another bud of mine and he has a 3xnt, he said that the diffs have to be tuned all the timeor they will burn out/melt.

lie to me if you must but tell me somthing, i really want the xxxnt but i dont want it to be broken all the dam time.

[Dnmeistr]

Well the sport RTR is a weaker truck the plastics are just bad, but when you replace them if when you break with the regular Losi plastics they are much better and breakage won't be a problem, replacement parts are really cheap. Unless you nail something really hard then of course it will break and so will a GT. I bought a RTR and it seemed like every other time I took it out I broke something, the rear shock tower, one of the front arms, and rear hinge block. I replaced them with Losi plastic and have not broke since, the truck is sweet it handles like it is on rails. I am still on the original rear diff and have not had to replace the adjusting nut, just be careful and adjust it a little at a time when breaking it in and you wont strip the nut. Once the diff was broke in and tight I haven't had to readjust it and I am going on a gallon of fuel now. HTH

Dnmeistr

[morfracerX]

so the stock arms and towers on the rtr are nor losi brand parts?or are they just a cheaper build of plastic?

Right now it looks like i will get the RTR but the drake )sp) really lookes swwet) What iu think i'll end up doing is buying a used 3xnt off ebay or the buy and sale boards, one that has a motor. that way i will get the truck i want for a bit less.

[Dnmeistr]

The RTR has a cheaper build of plastic, not Losi brand, but they compensate for it by including an excellent radio XR2 and a descent motor :)

Dnmeistr

[Crashbot2001]

I have the XXXNT and I raceit every Sunday. So far I have broken One rear a-arm.. I also stripped the diff nut by overtightening. The diff nut was replaced with a new one from a hardware store, stainless stell 4-40 lock nut, 12 cents.. Bought a set of front and rear a-arms, replace the rear one that broke, and kept trucking. Nothing else has gone bad. Set the rear diff tighter than the slipper and you will never have a problem with it.

What I do with the diff is this:

Set the slipper at three turns out..

Tighten the diff a little at a time until the slipper will slip first.

The I set the slipper to between 4 and 6 turns out, depending on the surface I'm running on.

Check the diff after the first few minuites if it's new, byt setting the slipper at three turns out again, and making sure it slips first. Do this one more time after another few laps. This will ensure it is broken in and the setting will hold.

I re-check it once before each race day. I also check it If it tighten the slipper for some reason, but now when I check it, becasue it's already broken in, all I do is set the slipper where I want it, then check to make sure it's still slipping first.

Do this and you will NOT have a problem with your diff... I promise.. lol

The plastic that comes on thr RTR is cheaper, but not much. It is more flexible, and bends more than regular parts grade.. Thus, i think it's more forgiving to new users. I personally think it's harder to "Break" it than the regular parts, but whatever..

The GTs are probably a little more durable, but you sacrifice handling for that durability. The losi handles like it was on rails and lands jumpos like a wet sponge.. it just sticks to the track.. And the steering is phenomenal..

They are not as fragile as you might think. I went from running a fully RD aluminum.Carbon Fiber hopped up rustler to the XXXNT and, like I said, I have broken one rear arm in Four months.. That should tell you something.

Get the Losi, then when you spank your buddies and their GTs, say, yeah, this thing is always breaking!! lol

[dkj-M3]

Drake just said that they are working on a New Diff Nut.

[jdm3849]

The losi does not break alot! I ran it through 1 gallon so far and have only broke an a-arm. And that was nose diving from 10 feet in the air.

The plastic that comes with it is cheaper to build but it has more flex so it wont break as easily as the stiffezell(sp) or graphite.

The 3xnt is way better than the GT, its a known fact.

[Got Speed]

morracerx- I have broken nothing on my XXXN-T yet. All I have done is pop a ball cup during a race once. lol. The diff won't last at all if you don't know how to build it, but if you follow the directions you should have no problems at all. I built mine according to the directions and have a silky smooth diff(even though I forgot to break it in).

[winning edge designs]

Morf, two things. I'll try and post this as nice and fair as possible.
1st)The only way the diff will give a racer trouble is if they think they know better then all the TeamLosi engineers who have resolved any problem a long time ago. That is adjust both the diff and slipper according to instructions and make sure the slipper does the slipping and not the diff. Overtightening the diff isn't needed, but allowing the slipper to slip a little is. The other way is an honest mistake made by being in too much of a rush and not checking the adjustments!
2nd)Every truck breaks, i've seen Saxton "the Kings" GT truck break in gas truck races, in fact once at the start before the first turn. Really Bad Luck, yes, but still broken.
True Story: I once broke a rear hub after landing off a 4 foot table top at about 25mph on the right rear wheel. A racer carrying a GT to the track for practice told me," that's a problem with those". The same racer went out and ran about 3 laps, wiped out after the long straightaway hitting the pipe and broke a front castor block and popped off a ballcup. As he walked by myself and a friend of mine(who runs for associated) told him,"that's a problem with those"!.............Had to be there,LOL,Jim

[drdirt]

Way to go jim. That's tellin him.hehe I go thru that with my buddies that have the other car. Thing is, they all want to know how I get it to handle so good. It's all part of the fun. Hey Jim have you ever gone to the Indoor Gas Nationals in Columbus, Ohio? I don't know who to contact about an entry. Thanks, Jim

[dkj-M3]

Originally posted by dkj-M3
CRCRC (http://www.crcrc.com/)

They're not working on that until they're finished with The 2002 N.O.R.R.C.A. Electric Off-Road Nationals in Oct., but it WILL take place in Jan. Go to the forum for updates.

Darrell (KJ)

[LosiGTX]

I just bought a Drake XXNT and iam impressed except for one thing. I have not ran the truck yet but i am having problems with the disk brake. I like the idea, however that dam pins that screw into the transmission case keep coming out!. This would be terrable to happen if the truck was moving. I put thread lock and it seems to be working better, BUT DOES ANYONE ELSE KNOW OF A BETTER BRAKE SET I CAN PUT ON THIS THING?

One more thing to mention:

At the hobby shop the other day, i seen i all aluminum RC10 gt with every hop up imaginable. It also had fuel injection. A heat sensor went from the exaust manifold to a computer which was hooked up to tyhe fuel tank. Depending on the temperature of the engine, the computer decides how much fuel to send the engine. The computer is programmable, and he says it keeps his engine at the same temperature each day. It also allowed him run up to 15 min before he had to refuel. The fuel injection is soposedly not sold anymore, but has anyone herd of this before?

[drdirt]

a very large thank you, darrell. That's all the info I could use, and then some. The video was extra special. Thanks again, Jim Cogill
P.S. I hope to be there in Jan if they let me in. HEHE

[purplerides]

losigtx - i nor has any of my buddies have had that problem before i thinking it's jusy an isolated incident or you overtighten them and stripped out the tranny case , just tighten them until they bottom out and that's all.

[Got Speed]

LosiGTX- It could be because of overtightening, using the wrong size bolt, or because you used loctite on the plastic. Loctite will make plastic very brittle.

[DsWright]

DrDirt, hope to se you up there in Jan myself=)

and darrel, i'll see ya up there on sat.=)

Should have my .21 engine issues with the buggy solved by then, and hopefully have a better setup under my drake truck.

[drdirt]

The track that I saw on the video looks like it has a lot of bite. My xxxnt seems to like step pins. How would they work? Thanks, Jim

[winning edge designs]

Drdirt, Sorry, haven't gotten to race there yet, but I hear it's an awesome track! I'd look for a site for them.
I know the Jerry and the guys at the track in Oklahoma have an awesome facility too. The RC Pro race there was a blast, even with Mother nature trying to squelch all the fun!

LosiGTX, are you serious? A fuel injection system would require a fuel injector, Throttle position sensor, oxygen sensor, Manifold pressure or Mass air flow sensor as well as fuel pressure controls, like a regulator and electric pump, As well as all the needed wiring, etc., It would weigh a ton and be VERY expensive....Jim

[mgw40]

look at the O.S. website. They make a few Fuel Injected engines. They are for larger scale RC planes but still pretty cool. They don't have to be that complex. It would be nice to see some of this tech bleed down to rc cars.

[dkj-M3]

drdirt- Yes, it has a lot more bite than an outdoor track & no step-pins will have you doing donuts. the a-mainers run pink tapers in the rear & 8-ribs in the front. I run directionals everywhere, they are just more consistant to me.

dale- I'll see you there Sat. I just ordered a rotary carb for my evo II, now maybe I'll be able to control all that power:eek:

anybody else have a HPI Evo II Novarossi, let me know how you like it. It's crazy power for a .12 that is ROAR legal. I'm running the 20 tooth bell with a carb restrictor & it was running neck&neck with a 8th scale buggy. Get this, the temp was only 200 degrees.

[DsWright]

Darrel- This is why they need to make different spur gears for the XXX-NT, because you could gear that thing down a few teeth on the spur also and probably still have tons of acceleration. i have never found anything but a 51 tooth though=(

funny thing is in the adds for the XXX-NT they advertise quick spur gear changes=)

Drdirt- Darrel is right on, Pink tapers and 8 ribs or pink directionals in the front. Stock losi foam in front and trinity bomb one for the rear. You will have more traction than you know what to do with=) assuming you have a decent setup after that=) The guys running directionals have dremeled them down so they they are very rounded, smooth and low profile on the tread, and they hook nicely without making you oversteer to much. You will have a great time, but don't get yourself to excited yet, it's not till Jan. =)

[purplerides]

Dr.Dirt - i have raced there at there gas champs race for the last 5 years , they run a great program and there's loads of traction , pink tapers are what almost everyone uses in the rear , i liked the pink directioals up front best , i plan on making it 6 years this year , the only hiccup that might be thrown in there is that's about the same time my wife is due , (i think she planned it that way grr)...LOL , i'll send my entry in then just play it by ear , if she's hasn't had the baby or is close i'll just eat the entry no big deal , the entry forms usually come out sometime in dec.

[drdirt]

Thanks to all that are trying to help me out with the finer points. Apparently my new .15 CVR is not roar legal so I'll have to see what SANTA brings me. Been giving some thought to a RB .12. Someone said a wasp is just a picco but a RB is a nova rossi. I'm so confused, HEHE Who is gonna protest someone who will probably be in the ZZ main? Adam Drake is gonna be hawkin my pit lookin for the hot setup?? The hot setup is my aa batts from toshiba for 8 bucks a case. Hey I'm just goin to watch but I'll bring the xxxnt just for kicks. Purplerides the site is wwwcrcrc.com
Anybody know how much the entry fee is, and when do they start taking signups. This week we are going to newville to try out they're high traction dirt oval. Thanks again, Jim

[Got Speed]

drdirt- I am not sure who makes the Wasp engines but I think RB makes there own engines :confused: . Either way they look about the same in performance.

[dkj-M3]

Last year my 1st. I didn't race but I did practice (break) on the track. It was $50

[Nutter]

Originally posted by DsWright
Darrel- This is why they need to make different spur gears for the XXX-NT, because you could gear that thing down a few teeth on the spur also and probably still have tons of acceleration. i have never found anything but a 51 tooth though=(

funny thing is in the adds for the XXX-NT they advertise quick spur gear changes=)Well the GTX/NXT spur might fit, although they are quite a lot larger - the smallest being 74T I believe.


-Nutter

[cabbynate]

drdirt,
Try the Panther Steps sometime. Med-Soft. I think you will really like them. They have a fater step and pin that digs in and last a really long time.:)

[drdirt]

thanks, cabbynate. I have a couple pairs of them but I haven't gotten a chance to try them just yet. I think they might be ok on my regular sat nite dirt oval, but this weekend my son and I are going to try a blue groove oval near Harrisburg, Pa. I don't think they'll be too cool there however. Where did YOU get the Panthers from? We found a place on ebay, I think the e mail is larry@comsale.com They were pretty cheap and we got quick service. Maybe I can finally help YOU with something for a change. HEHE...........Jim

[cabbynate]

I use to get them from stormerhobbies.com but now I'm a team driver for them.:) All my hard work(play) paid off!!

[dkj-M3]

cabbynate- Congrats:cool:

[DsWright]

haha nutter i had looked at that, but going up 23 teeth on the spur would be a bad thing=) also it wouldn't fit for sheer circumferance=)

it just confuses the hell out of me that they don't make any other size spur gear?

[cabbynate]

dkj-M3,
Thanks!!!!:)

[LosiRacer89]

job and how did you do it did you need to like win a main or tq congrats! wish i could do that:D cause you don't have to pay for your stuffgood

[cabbynate]

Losieracer89,
No!!!!!!! I get everything 1/2 price. I'm not full yet.;)

[morfracerX]

WEll guys i found my XXX nt it's the rtr but it's hoped up some. it will come with a bucnh of this and that (sorry just got up and i'm to lazy to type) i send off the cash on wens and it should take 7-9 days to get here. i cant wait.

[jcnmt]

hey winning edge designs where do you race?

[LosiRacer89]

well..................... i would take 1/2 price any day!!!:D

[PJCruz]

Hey guys, it's me Pete. Been a while. Anyways, I have been messing with my Losi much lately. Got me a Maxx and been into that and my guitar again. Anyways, last weekend I entered a local race and entered in 2 classes, Gas truck and TMaxx. I ended up only running the Maxx (I had noone to sit in for me to marshall =( and noone to pit). I ended up winning B main in Maxx truck and blew up my OS in the starting gate for the A main. =( Turns out I should have sat the maxx and just run the Losi all day. It started up fine and ran hard during the pre-race deal.

Anyways, I was wondering which pipe I should keep for the Losi. If any of you have any experience with these I'd appreciate it. I have a Picco .12 side exhaust and currently have the stock Losi (rubber stinger) pipe on there. I also have an Associated Pipe (took off the maxx when I put a CVEC on the maxx), and a RB x12 pipe on my touring car (*which I plan on selling with a Mugen MT-12). Just wondering if you guys think if the Associ or RB pipes would work better in the picco for offroad?

Peace
Pete

[winning edge designs]

jcnmt, I race in central Florida mostly. I also get up into Georgia a couple times a year and know alot of those guys. Have you checked out our website yet at, jconcepts.net? :).....Where are you racing out of?...Jim

[winning edge designs]

mgw40, I went and checked out the F.I. engines they have available. The smallest engine right now is a 1.40 2 stroke, it retails for $999.00. They also have a less expensive 1.6 2 stroke for $800. The engines include a specially modified block,carb body and back plate. Along with a micro processor,rpm sensor,exhaust temp sensor and fuel injector. They are using the standard method of fuel feeding, which, imo, would make the F.I. a little erratic. Basically it electrically opens the carb needle(injector) based on engine rpm pre-set programming and exhaust temp. That is, high temp, raise fuel opening. Very primitive as far as modern F.I. is concerned, but still pretty cool!...............Jim

[dissymmetry]

sorry, double post ...

[dissymmetry]

Greetings all.

I hear talk of spur gears in some earlier posts. What sizes would you be looking for? I may be able to custom make some out of stainless or titanium if anyone is interested, let me know what sizes you want, how many teeth and I'll look into it. I'll trick bevel the edges as well. Stainless will be cheaper, it's much easier to mill than titanium is.

Along with my Alum wheels for XXX and RC-10 I've got some hot wheels I just made for the duratrax thunderquake too. I'm even making some that fit T-Maxx tires but are designed for the TQ.

I know I've posted it before, but if anyone wants something that you can't find let me know and I'll see if I can do it.

I'm working on 7075 aluminum front & rear shock towers, but the Losi design is almost impossible to recreate in aluminum without it costing about $100, I'm looking at a two-piece design to significantly lower the cost. Although, I don't know if I'll be able to make it competetive. Especially with graphite only at $15.

-Dissymmetry