Team Losi XXXNT forum v3.0

[Nutter]

Any more information on this new flywheel? Also, how'd you end up assembling the DE's diff then, did you go with a spring or the washers?


-Nutter

[Nutter]

Originally posted by losifreak2004
I finished third last year behind Adam Drake and Vince Stolo, two national champions.I just checked out The Dirt's web site and found the results - Aaron actually won in total points (by a good 150 or so), but as there were 2 "throw out" rounds, Adam and Vince threw out two rounds that they got 0 in, but Aaron had to throw out two good rounds. I must say, well done Aaron, I hope you go as well this year!
http://www.thedirtracing.com/10thexptopten.htm

Aaron's more consistant than Drake.. ooooh ;)


-Nutter

[winning edge designs]

PJ,I was thinking the body and stickers were the most important parts?LOL............Jim

[PJCruz]

BUHQHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Dude, sorry that went totally over my head. Yeah, darn Losi sells bodies with NO DECALS so I have to improvise. =) I don't want to run my Limited Edition body... it's too purty!!! LOL!!!

Pete

[PJCruz]

BUHQHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Dude, sorry that went totally over my head. Yeah, darn Losi sells bodies with NO DECALS so I have to improvise. =) I don't want to run my Limited Edition body... it's too purty!!! LOL!!!

Today I bought another set of red Reptile rears (preglued) and another spur gear (spare). Now I have 2 sets of Reptiles, 1 set of Bowties, and one front Losi directionals. All in the Losi Red or Proline M3 compounds.

I was wondering on the brake link/pads how tight you guys have it. I reinstalled mine and it seems to "drag" on the pads yet.. when I hit the brake.. it's not stopping. It was ok before I took everything apart. I was thinking of putting in a piece of fuel tubing on the link on the outer brake pad to give it some "tightness." Any other suggestions? The instructions seem to say to leve the setscrews out a bit... and not in too far.

Thanks
Pete

[R/C_12]

Hi, I'm a newbie and looking to buy a XXX-NT. I've got my heart pretty much set on the XXX-NT SPORT with the XR2 and mach .15. Would this truck be competetive at the club level? Any complaints about this truck? anyone have one that they race?

Thanks, Tyler

[Racin Rev]

R/C_12

Be sure that you check with the track(s) in your area to be sure that the .15 will be allowed to compete. Most places won't let you do that at a high leval but some will allow them in the sportsman class. The rtr's seem more prone to breaking parts but if you have a decent supply of replacement graphite bits on hand or available, just replace them when they break. If you plan to move up soon you would be better off getting a kit and a better motor and a decent radio while you are at it.

I have the kit and am on my second season with it and all that i have broken so far is a ball cup and a clutch bearing which seized.

[cabbynate]

Losifreak,
You Cali boyz are spoiled!!!!!! You get all the good dirt!!!!!http://www.plauder-smilies.de/natur/flower.gif
Yep Aaron we had a blast!!!!! Heck, I just got home some 24hr after I left to go race. I'm wanting to race this hole series so we will see!!!!! So far so good.
C-YA!!!!!!http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxwave.gif
Cabby

[PJCruz]

Ok guys, I hate to sound lazy.. BUT on what side do each of the rear hubs (1 deg) go on? I have them marked as L and R and I noticed last night that my front steering knuckles are opposite what my 1 deg rear hubs are. The "indent" with the L or R is facing the FRONT of the truck.. and the smooth/flat otherside is facing the rear.

I have the Ready to Race/Bench Built truck and Adam Drake put mine together (so they say ;-) so I'm sure the front knuckles are correct. I want to get the 4 deg toe in the rear.

Thanks
Pete

[Nutter]

Aaron: well, that was my first guess (Adam missing them for big races), but that doesn't sound as cool! :p :D


-Nutter

[R/C_12]

9 cents?!? They should sell them for 2 bucks each!

Aaron: Oh, thats good, I'll need the extra CC's:D! Thanks for your help! I might be up at Hemet to practice hopefully this week if I can save enough money to buy the truck. I'm sure I can considering I have a F-T3, NRS4, Villian boat, and a rustler to sell;)

-Tyler

[Nutter]

Congrats Aaron! I think the key words there were "Once the mold machine is obtained" :p But.. damn! Tyres are like the most expensive thing when racing because you go through so many - you're onto a great thing!!!

I'm emailing the Assistant Director of parks & recreation in this city tomorow to ask about getting some land to build a track on, my fingers are crossed, although I'm not too hopeful. Havn't had a track to race at since I got here.. 2 months now without a race, talk about withdrawl symtons! :( The closest track is about an hour away, and is 1/8th only.. gurr.
Can anyone make any suggestions for things to say in the email? Please serious things, such as benifits to the community, etc (stuff to help sell the idea).


-Nutter

[cabbynate]

Aaron,
Sweet deal with Panther!!!! You gotta love that!!!
Yes, 20min mains are Way Long. I ended up 3rd so I can't complain but my throttle finger got numb!!! I guess I'm getting to old for this stuff!!!! (LOL):D Hay, how come you and I where the only smart ones out there with Goggles? Wind and dust make a bad combo!!! Don't they know that? O-Well, I had a great time and I will try to finish out the series.
C-YA!!!!
Nate
PS, I alo like the RTR spring. That diff setup when built right rocks!!!!

[lositeamdriver]

god aaron you guys get up early well we left vegas for there around 2:45 am on sat morn then we got home at midnight on sat night so i mean all most 24 hours with like 1 hour of sleep the hole time ao i sleep pretty dam good well good job dam shock used to bite me with the losi but it was my fault with ae so ill see you at prob all point series races! ttyl

bubba
panther tires are good!

[Nutter]

Yep, already got the family & something for kids to do things, but that ROAR insurance point is very important as I'm sure the council would be worried about that, thanks! And of course I'd be organising a club too, that's the second most important part of racing.. getting the track is obviously the most important. :p


-Nutter

[Nutter]

oh yea Aaron, now you're officially a Panther employee, here's some suggestions that I can pretty much guarantee will increase their sales a lot: Make their web site easier to read! Black? EEEW! Also, looking through their tire selection, I found a huge lack of information on a lot of them, and the photos were not very good either and quite hard to make out details of the tread from. It'd be awesome to see a "tire chart" much like Losi has on their web site.
I can see from one of their tire patterns that they used to make the tires for Losi "back in the day".. the one that looks sort of like the Proline "Fuzzie"s looks very very similar (nearly identical) to a Losi tire I used to run a looong time ago, probably around the '94 era.


-Nutter

[winning edge designs]

Aaron,congrats on the Panther deal! But when you mentioned price for the material at .09 per tire,you didn't factor in the $5,000 to $7,000 mold tool,heh heh. I think since most of the Panther line are a slightly modified versions of TeamLosi and Proline tires,they only need to sort out compounds to have a competitive tire line. But they did already win the Proline Tmaxx race,haha.


I found a tip that may help some on low bite tracks(sandy,hard). I used an exacto,very carefully and trimmed out a small hole in the inside center,near the lower edge of each clutch shoe(opposite the pin hole). Then used a little CA to hold a 3/32 diff ball in place(not a big deal since it's held more by centrifugal force,except for assembly). This added weight really helped with on power traction,since the clutch engaged sooner and the engine was loaded in it's lower power band. This way the truck gets moving pretty well before the power really comes on good. This tip may not work for low power engines,or tracks that have big jumps and small take off ramps.................This is the exact opposite of what I did in Georgia. Which was tightening the spring and removing material from each shoe. Worked great until the traction went away!!!!..........Jim

[DsWright]

Ok, hopefully some of you harcore racers can give me some tips on low bite dry dusty tracks.

I have a drake Edition XXX-NT, took it out to dirt country today, and even when they water the track it dries up VERY fast, within 15 min or less in some parts. Useing the step pin stock tires and stock drake setup, i couldn't find grip or steering ANYWHERE.

One problem i know i have is running a slide carb..... that will be fixed soon.

There is one large double on the track, but bottoming out is not a worry if i soften up the suspension.

What are some recommendations to try out? Im thinking of trying some losi red reptiles in the rear.

When i soften the suspension, what should i use a good basis? Should i go with softer oil and same pistons, or same oil (40wt) with larger piston holes? What are good spring/oil/piston combonations that work well for most people?

I know experimentation is always the best, but im just looking for a baseline to start with.

thanks

[cabbynate]

DsWright,
I run on a low bite track here in Vegas and I run the drake set-up with these changes: 32.5 wt up front, 35wt rear. 56 pistons all the way around. Red spings in the rear and 1 degree anti squat.
If you need even more rear traction you can try pink springs in the back as well. You are using the 1dg rear hubs right? The right hub on the right, left on left. (some people have gotten confused with this). Try it out. It should help. I even run it on high grip tracks with great results. http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[winning edge designs]

DS,when your experiencing low traction,front AND rear,it's usually from lack of weight transfer. Tire choice is more important than anything else,but if you're running the same tires,in good shape as everyone else,you need to try a few things. First i'd try added rear toe-in,if you're not already at 4 degrees per side(plus 1 hubs). Adding rear anti-squat can help,since it aids weight transfer,try one shim under the front of the rear arm pivot block. Lighter shock oil,maybe as much as 10wt lighter will speed weight transfer,which will you give more initial traction and get you into and out of the turns better. Then i'd try the clutch tuning method I talked about in my last post.
Keep in mind,stiffer springs add traction. Especially when traction is high, Not soft ones as some think. Softer springs only soften the trucks "reaction",or "feel",giving you time to react to loose conditions. So they will feel like there is more traction(easier to drive)........Believe it or not,you may want to try orange rear springs and red fronts. If you're not sure this is true,a quick test is to lay your rear shocks all the way in(softer more progressive rate) and see what it changes. Then try them all the way out. If your truck feels better all the way out,you need a "stiffer" spring,then lay them back in a hole,or two....................I run orange all around on my truck,btw.....Good luck,Jim

[DsWright]

do they make a 4-in-1 style clutch for the XXXnt similar to what they make for the RC10GT?

That would be ideal, being able to tune the clutch without heavily modifying it.

I may just get a replacement clutch and try weighting it.

Have you ever tried changing the clutch to leading edge instead of trailing without altering wieght?

Also, would you recommend some light dragbrake to help transfer wieght up front and give a little more steering off power, or is this a bad idea in loose conditions?

Thnx for your help guys

[PJCruz]

Thanks a ton Aaron. I think they are wrong.. I'll change them out.

Congrats on the tire deal... we can we expect these tires in our LHS??

Need any more team drivers? =) My local track is setting up a huge Nitro OPEN later this year... would be a good race to get some publicity.

Pete

[dkj-M3]

I made it to Dirt Country about 5:00 & stayed till dusk, I had the red & yellow xxx-t & the blue & silver xxx-nt with the black wheels. I ran the standard Drake NT set-up but with 2* rear hubs, bones slightly above level & Trinity bomb 1 gray foam in the rear. I must say that's the best my truck has ever ran, & this is when the track was dry. I could (almost) hang with King, one of the guys that runs the track, he's an A-mainer at CRCRC. I saw other guys running bow-ties, but I didn't try them, as my truck was dialed like 1-800-call-att. I would get a rotary carb, that might have been your only problem with traction, & drop the slide into an on-road car or use it for bashing. Next time your there see if King will let you run his truck to see how it hooks up or differs from yours or let him drive your truck to see what your missing. You can drive mine if you want. I won a B-main, but I'm not an A-mainer yet. But like I said, it's probably just slide carb.

After you left King took berm after the double at full throttle, no brake:eek:

[R/C_12]

Will the stock tired on the XXX-Nt be ok for THE DIRT? If not what tire is? What would be a good starting setup, mainly shocks and springs? I'm only looking to finish the sportsman race not to far behind second to last. ;)

Tyler

[DsWright]

I left little after you got there, around 545 or so, i had been there since 11am.

I had the purple with white flames XXXnt that couldn't stay on the track=) the only thing i broke all day was a ballcup from hitting the double at full speed a few to many times.

Gonna be alot more prepared next week, now that i have a good idea of what i need, and what i don't, i should have all i need to get some tuning time in before the race starts.

That is a hella fun track though, im gonna make every race there this year that i can.

hopefully i'll do alot better=)

[aaronb73]

This is repeat from my Drake thread on the nitro offroad forum:

I popped the differential nut on my second outing. I managed to find the details here about using two plain associated nuts in place of the one aluminum lock nut. I'll be trying that shortly, has anyone else had luck with this fix?

Also, I was asking around at the track if others had a diff slipping / losening problem. A few said the way to fix this is to flip the screw head side from being on the slipper side (right?) to the left side, basically backwards? Is this out in left field, "don't do it" territory or a good trick to keep it from coming apart?

[andy51289]

Buy a HG Aluminum diffnut. You'll never strip one again!

[winning edge designs]

I agree, a leading clutch will engage harder in my experience as well. That Aaron dude is schmart,haha!

aaronb73,alot of people are under the misconception that the side the diff bolt is out from matters for loosening up problems. I suppose they don't stop and consider that each outdrive spins in opposite directions during hard cornering. So no matter how it faces,if there is enough friction generated in the diff bolt,thrust bearing,etc,it will loosen. The key is to have the diff bolt,nut and thrust bearings all in good conditon. Using a new nut each time and keeping the thrust assembly well greased and clean are the best insurance. Otherwise the right outdrive can loosen the diff bolt from the right(unscrewing it from the nut),or the left outdrive will loosen the diffbolt from the left(unscrewing it from the nut),in a hard corner,with the inside wheel unloading on power..........Some use a steel mini locknut available at a very good hardware store rather then the aluminum one included in the kit. This is only usually needed for overzelous guys,with big arms,or very good tools with too large handles!haha.........Hope this helps,Jim

[R/C_12]

We will start it off with a couple of story then the questions:)! story, I was watching a A-main race at Socal raceway(electrics). One trucks Ti-rod popped off and the truck stopped. When the marshal picked it up he set it to the side. When he did this guy started yelling like a maniac telling him to "Fix the car, ITS A TI-ROD!!!". I can remember feeling pretty bad for the guy because thats a tough spot to be in...

Questions: 1] If something like a car breaks should I fix it? I mean if a wheel is hanging off and i dont know whats wrong should i try to find out and fix the problem? :confused:

2] If a car dies or is messed up, where do i set the car? do i just put it out of the racing line or take it off the track or hold or what!?

This is one of the main reasons ive been hesitant to race because turn marshaling :o , so clearing this up or giveing me some tips would really help.

-Tyler

[lositeamdriver]

Aaron i just sent in the resume to them so i dont know yet ill let you know what happens!

ygm

bubba

[tarvymoto]

If it is an obvious fix like popping a turnbuckle back on , then snap that puppy back on. If parts are broken , then there is nothing yo can do so just set the thing down out of the way till the race is over. Turnmarshals are not obligated to fix broken parts , but if the problem is something that is obvious to you and you can fix it then get it fixed.....unless this is your rival.In that case pull the car and sit on it while acting like you can't hear anything.:D

[PJCruz]

Thanks Aaron, I'll let my LHS know and check them out.

I'll hold on the resume for now.. I don't get a chance to race often enough to have that confidence. ALthough, honestly I can drive pretty well. Not super fast but pretty steady and consistent... but occassional mechanical failure (due to my lack of free time OUTSIDE THE TRACK/EVENT for upkeep on the car) keeps me from placing well. My last race I managed qualifying 4th in the B main after winning my 1st heat (I even beat a local SPONSORED DRIVER), but my 2nd heat I ended up killing my steering servo somewhere and didn't realize it till AFTER my turnmarshalling duties. Never made it to the last 2 heats (i.e. wife called me in =(

If I had a chance to hang around and fix the servo.. I might have done better. ANyways.. we'll see about my next race. =)

Originally posted by losifreak2004
[B]

PJ - The tires will be in stores as soon as your LHS orders them! Have them e-mail Panther through their site to set up their dealer account, and your track can have the grip of a Panther (yes, I'm FULLY aware that sounded horrible HAHAHAHA)

As far as needing another team driver, e-mail me a resume! How confident are you that you would put your truck in the A at that race? That's what we need right now, is some good local exposure.

[cabbynate]

R/C_12,
You don't need to fix a thing!!!!!! How can you marshal and fix a car you did not break at the same time? If some one tells you to fix it, you say I did not break it!!!!! Learn to drive bone head!!!:D
Well, maybe not the bone head thing but It is not your job to fix it. At some tracks they won't let you even leave your spot to give the car to one of his friends and his friend better not run across the track to get it either. Don't let a thing like marshaling stop you from racing. If you are 12 years old, you could be a pro driver by age 16!!!!! :)

Losifreak,
Are the Panther Steps-pins out yet? I looked for them at Hobby town and they did not have them. They had other Panther tires but not the steps.

Bubba,
You trying to get a tire sponsor??????
That would be pretty sweet!!!http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[Nutter]

You guys won't even snap a rod end back on that's popped off? Damn, you're mean! :p :D


-Nutter

[DsWright]

Yeah that's a little harsh=)

If your racing at a high level i could see why you wouldn't do it, but for just running a club level, that shouldn't be a big deal...

[DR.GT]

Losifreak:

Before you flame me for this you must first realize that many Clubs do not enforce the ROAR rules entirely. I understand what the rules say regarding fixing vehicles but you try to tell that to a young beginning driver who wants to have fun racing. Not everyone is at your level or wants to be. Being that strict at a Club level race is a sure way to chase young blood away from this sport. I've been racing for 12 years, am a Club Prez and know what I'm talking about. I'm very competitive ( ranked 3rd in Canada in 1/10 gas) but at our Club races (not our yearly Trophy Race) we try to keep everyone running and having fun as this is why most people join the sport.

As for Roar our Club tried it as a member club for 1 year and got nothing from the membership or monies spent by our racers that warrants us continuing with Roar. The politics are a sham! When and IF Roar finally does something for the grass roots racing and Clubs then maybe we'll consider it again.

I'm off the soap box now!

:)

[lositeamdriver]

ya nate i mean i would have qualified first in the b main at proline in pro gas so i mean i sent panther a resume so i have nothing to loose

[cabbynate]

It's not that I would not fix it. I most likely would. That is me. He should not feel presure to do it. If he is not comfortable with his ability to marshal yet, than he should not feel obligated to fix it. It sounds like he is nervous enough about marshaling. He dose not need to having to worry about fixing broker cars too.

[igozoom]

Man, you guys are hard core.

RC, I will give you my opinion. Just so you know, I am a 39 year old with a sweet spare tire working around my mid section, and a little disposible income. I drive worse than Tonya Harding huffing paint even though I have about the best vehicle and upgrades that money can buy. When I grow up, I wanna drive as well as Aaron and paint cars as well as W>E>D> Jim !

:D

At local club races, I always try to help out other drivers, if it's a tb that's popped off, or something that I can quickly resolve. I am always grateful when someone attempts to help me, even if they are unsuccessful.

The only exception is when some idiot flips a nitro truck over and refuses to let off of the throttle. I will then typically stand next to his vehicle, refraining from doing anything, while watching him making an ass of himself on the stand until he realizes that I don't do third degree burns from tires. ( Burned once by a Nitro truck at an odd angle, and once trying to shut down an electric with an esc on fire.)

I have been yelled at by drivers up on the stand for not moving my carcus quickly enough for their liking. My response is typically, " don't crash and it wont be an issue."

Hope this helps.

PS I would avoid t.m. ing for any A main events. They/(me sometimes but not often enough) are all a bunch of whiners. hehehe

[igozoom]

OK, need some advice. Putting together the new Drake. Have decided to go with the new graphite rear pivot block vs the Trinity. I am using the new Native Racing Battery box. The problem is that the rear hinge pins are not captured and can slide out. (uh oh !)

Any ideas as to how I can resolve/capture without compromising the rigidity of the block? All thoughts are welcome.

Thought of the Day - I love cats. They taste just like chicken !

[DsWright]

The graphite pivot block is the only piece i broke on my truck after running all day.

I wouldn't recommend using graphite there, im keeping everything else graphite in my DE, but the Pivot block takes to much abuse and isn't a very fast part to change IMO.

When mine broke it allowed my pin to contact my spur gear and damn near tore it off.

just my .02 worth=)

[winning edge designs]

OK,off of the XXX-NT subject a bit,but i'll post my opinion.

I decide what to do for each particular situation. First,is this persons race basically over if he pops off a ballcup?...Yes,unless he's racing some much slower cars. Second, Is there a decent battle for 1st,or second,that may come by and tie up while i'm,"quickly popping the ballcup back on?"(i've seen this "simple" act take quite a while in some cases). 3rd,if it's a major event,you lose a lap for fixing cars in some cases,no matter what the problem....ie:,antenna tube off,ballcup,body clip.....there are alot of quick fixes that could occur. But basically if a race car is in your hands,while the race is still running,that racers day is over.

Usually when a racer yells at a marshal,it's more about the adrenaline pump,then the actual problem.haha......imo,Jim

P.S.,i'll let you guys know how it goes in Aiken after the weekends RC PRo series race there...should be fun!

[XXXtacy]

Yep. That pivot block was the only part I seemed to break on a regular basis. Replaced it w/ the Kinwald piece, now it's not a problem.

Regarding the Native Racing battery box... I hadn't considered that problem... I was going to get one but now I'll be watching to see any ideas for a solution to the pin problem...maybe shorterning the pins a bit and tapping the hole for a setscrew? Cutting a groove with a dremel and putting an e-clip on?
Hmmmm.....

[Mach3]

I've got the XXX-NT Sport truck & are having some diff problems. I have 3 melt diff & need some help. I think it cause by me not breaking it in right, & the diff is becoming lose. How do you guys breakin the diff on your trucks & how do you know when the diff if tight? I tried following the manual but I'm must still be missing something. Also I got all new parts & am going to rebuilt the tran but I have a question. What type of grease do you use on the diff balls & on the thrust bearing set. I have been using Assoc. clear diff lube for the diff & Assoc. black grease for the thrust bearing set. Could this be causeing my problem. I also have a Losi XX buggy & a Assoc. TC3 & have never had this problem before so any help would be much appeciated.
Thanks In Advance Mach3

[igozoom]

Thanks all. Looks like I will go with the aluminum pivot block.

BTW, with the alum pivot block, the hinge pins are captured so that in effect solves my problem.

[cabbynate]

Igozoom,
The Trinity pivot block is a sound investment. I would rather change a rear arm over a pivot block any day!!!! Plus, Like you said, you need it to use tha Sweet *** battery box!!!!http://www.plauder-smilies.de/devil/evilgrin1.gif

Mach3,
I also use the AE diff lubs and have great success! Rember you have to run the slipper looser than the Diff. Don't go by what the book says about 4-5 turns out. The nut may be almost be at the end of the shaft when it is set right.

XXXtacy,
The Trinity block has set screws that will hold the hing pins in as long as they don't get loose. I loctite mine in.

[nitro-fury]

I just finised building my Drake truck. I was wondering what air filter would be best to use, a motor savor, stoke Drake filter or the stock O.S. CV-R filter.

[aaronb73]

I've personally been using the stock OS 102 air filter, seems to work well. The Drake foam/paper filter setup reminds me of the GT filter, which has been reported to work well. Haven't heard too many good things around here about those motor saver filters though.

Nice thing about the OS foam filters are they're cheap and you can pop the top one off when it's dirty and stick a new one in, the bottom two don't see much dirt at all.

If you haven't already invest in a good feul filter too, it's surprising to see how much crud tries to sneak in through the fuel.

[PJCruz]

Well, for the next race coming up on the 15th... the person who was going to work for me.. isn't able too.. and I can not find someone else to cover me. So no race for me. =(

I"m PO'D... but I'll get the next one (although it's a HS a little further away in Houston).

Question and a suggestion to you guys...

Question: Do any of you use the Novak XXtra receiver? I bought one to use with my Reflex NT since the rec box is SO SMALL but I'm not running the car much and there's no local track yet (later this year).. so I thought of putting it in the Losi truck so change frq's quickly and also allow me to use a personal transponder and a battery gauge for the longer mains in offroad (5 channels). Have any of you had any trouble *or heard of any trouble* with the rec losing it's frequecy due to hard landings and harsh offroading?

Suggestion: To clean your tires... check this out.. get a LARGE freezer-lock type bag (bought a bag at work for $1), put the tires in..and Simple Green like mad. You can then close the bag and manipulate the tires to clean them in the bag without getting your hands all nasty then just remove the tires and blow off and dispose the bag (or pour out the green and grime, rinse and save for next time).

I had a HARD time trying to "scrub" my front ribs clean.. caked on mud and all.. and after a couple of minutes with the bag method.. they are like new. After cleaning.. hitting the tires with some WD-40 apparently works well to soften up the rubber (ie traction juice ;-)

Peace
Pete

[Nutter]

DR.GT: Where abouts are you in Canada? I just moved near Toronto (Oakville) & now I'm looking for an off-road track.

PJ: Great idea about the bag for cleaning tires in! :p God I hate scrubbling them.. it just transfers the mud from the tires to my clothes, hehe. :p


-Nutter

[DR.GT]

Nutter:

I live in BC.

:)

[dkj-M3]

I use the Xxtra it's great except it started losing it's settings after about 3 months of bashing & racing. It only happens when I go full throttle. I've been using another Xxtra for about 2 months & haven't had a prob yet, but we'll see. Short story, I lost it WOT down the straight & into a wall:eek: . Thankfully another racer shut it off, I thought the whole front end was trashed, but nothing broke.:D

Does anyone know of a way to make it hold its settings? The dials don't stick as much as they used to.

[Nutter]

nitro-fury: I liked the stock Losi air filter, but when I was in Australia I couldn't get a replacement foam pre-filter, and the *only* thing the LHS had was a motor saver (aka motor destroyer), so I had to settle with that despite all the bad things I've heard about it. Of course being as poorly stocked as the LHS was, they didn't even have a motor saver filter to fit my OS carb, so I had to use one too small for the carb - it took a LOT of brute force to make it stretch over the carb. But because of the incredibly tight fit, it's yet to fall off, and it doesn't seem to let much through.

dj: umm.. a dab of shoe-goo on the dials? hehe :p Should be easy to remove for when you need to change channels.

DR.GT: doh! :( Oh well, I might be making a track here anyway.. waiting to hear back from the council about land to use (already had one reply from the Assistant Director for parks & recreation, reffering me to the Director). :)


-Nutter

[nitro-fury]

Pj where do you race at in Houston? I have raced once at M&M and plan on it again this Saturday. It seems like there are not too many 1/10 truck racers here.

[XXXtacy]

Originally posted by cabbynate
XXXtacy,
The Trinity block has set screws that will hold the hing pins in as long as they don't get loose. I loctite mine in.

Errrrr..... NO? I have the Trinity block- no setscrews on it at all? If I take my batt box off I can slide the pins right out the back-:confused:

Does anyone else's have setscrews? I've had mine over a year- was there a design change or something?

[cabbynate]

XXXtacy,
Are you sure that there is not small holes on the top of the rear of your block over the hing pin? If not, yes you will be able to slide the hing pins right out. If you have the holes, than a pair of 4-40 set screws will set you right up.

[Scrad]

Guy's I need a little more side bite out of my truck. I have the camber set at -1 all the way around. Should I add a little more negative camber. My track is super bumpy, because it's so new and there are small rocks and such. The track is also a little bit loose. I can kick up some nice rooster tails. Also what about caster? Mine is set at whatever the kit say's it's at. Other than that my truck is set up pretty much like Drake's setup. Any sugestion?

[andy51289]

Scrad: Make your camber links longer. ;)

[XXXtacy]

Originally posted by cabbynate
XXXtacy,
Are you sure that there is not small holes on the top of the rear of your block over the hing pin? If not, yes you will be able to slide the hing pins right out. If you have the holes, than a pair of 4-40 set screws will set you right up.

Yep, no holes. But I'll take care of that when I get my Native battery box:D

[DsWright]

Ok, stupid ?'s for ya.


I now have blue(#54), Orange(#56), and Red(#56) shock pistons...

My springs tell me the rate, but the pistons all look so close i can't tell which is smaller and which has larger holes=)
Can someone clarify this for me?

Also, can you mix shock oil? like say i mixed 50/50, 30 and 35 wieght oil, does that = 32.5 wieght? or do they not mix?

Also this new battery box people talk about, can i get apic anywhere? or an order link that shows me a pic and price?

[R/C_12]

I'm new and not to sure but I guess I will just make a stab in the dark:rolleyes: . Im sure you can't mix...I belive they will just seperate and you will end up with a progressive kinda thing(the 35wt will sink and the 30wt will rise) NOT SURE IF IM RIGHT but my 8th grade science knowledge tells me you cant do that...:p :D

-Tyler

[dkj-M3]

http://mivasecure.abac.com/remotecontrolhobby/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=RCH&Product_Code=NRI300BB&Category_Code=NRIhttp://mivasecure.abac.com/remotecontrolhobby/graphics/00000001/batterybox_l.jpg

[PJCruz]

Originally posted by nitro-fury
Pj where do you race at in Houston? I have raced once at M&M and plan on it again this Saturday. It seems like there are not too many 1/10 truck racers here.

I don't often race. But when I do I go to J's Action RC in Pasadena. It's like 10 min from my house. I haven't been to any other racetrack besides Issac's for onroad.. but he's shut his down. =( I am going NEXT WEEK AFterall, =) J's currently races every other weekend... of course it's the weekend that I work.. so I try to catch the "major events."

[PJCruz]

Guys, silly question. I just bought another set of Losi rear tires. I noticed that they have a lovely "brownish" color. I know from past experience that the color will come off leaving the true black rubber tire beneath. What is that funk?? Is it mold release compound? Or something else? Should I "remove it" before running the truck.. or will it make the tires stick better *they are preglued already*

Thanks
pete

[cabbynate]

DsWright,
Yea, you can mix the shock oil as long as they are bouth pure silicone. The pistons go the higher the no. the smaller the hole.

[Scrad]

Aaron, what toe would be best? Where you guys saying you run -4 deg on the pivot block and hub? I can't remember and I don't want to search back for it right now...

[aaronb73]

I think that's how the drake kit works, -3% on the pivot block, and -1% rear hubs for the -4% total.

Backend stays glued to the track... :)

[cabbynate]

Yep, aaronb73 is right.:)

[jcnmt]

lets see some pics of the xxx-nt!

[andy51289]

OK here are some pics of the Adam Drake edition that I JUST put together! It's our 3rd NT.

Edit: Just click on the link because the pics are too big to post on this board!

http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?selected=41428

[Scrad]

So on my regular kit version I have -3 right now correct?

[DR.GT]

Scrad:

yep!

:)

[soccer25]

I just got a adam drake kit and a dynamite ultra start Starter box (model dyn5700) and I was wondering if anyone knows if they make an adaptor to make it work with the drake truck. It comes with an adaptor for the GTX and the rc10gt. If they don't make a adaptor for the xxxnt any ideas on a box that will work.

[brknwheel]

That's a trick looking battery box. But what happens when you get hammered from behind? It looks like you could be asking to have a shorted battery pack.

[diesel757]

setting up your starter box can be a bit tricky. i'm using an ofna 1/8 starter box. had to do a few mods to get it to work right. as far as a bracket, i have no idea what your talking about. havent seen one that comes with one for a specific vehicle.

rob

[diesel757]

any one else having problems with the screws that hold on the rear pivot block falling out. just replaced it with graphite before last race. what about problems with screws in the bottom of the chassis stripping(the hex hole). well i droppped in a couple of drops of ca and replaced the screws with stainless.

[PJCruz]

I think this has been covered before....but here goes. I have a personal transponder that I'll use next weekend for the race.. and was wondering if anyone here has one and where you mounted it. I was thinking as far forward as possible but i can't find a comfy spot for it... and putting it IN the rec box is actually a tiny bit further back than the typical transponder mounted in the lower windshield.

I have the truck setup now and hopefully will get a chance to break in the new diff and new fuel this weekend... and then be ready for the Race!!!

Thanks
Pete

[DsWright]

Cruz, cut a small hole in the body and hang it from a body clip wherever you want.

I don't think there is a good place to put it on the chassis.

Diesel, get some good quality tools, ever since i bought a nice set, i haven't stripped a single screw, and that's with tightening them down hard.

If your screws are backing out of graphite, you may have stripped it, yuo need to always thread the holes in graphite before you install the screws in them. I would not recommend a graphite pivot block either, takes to much abuse for it and if it does brake, is a more time consuming fix than an arm or anything else. Last time i broke a graphite pivot block, the king pin on the bottom went up into my spur gear and tore it up also.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

sup guys i was drivin my car yesterday on my street and did dis kewl skid dat sent it into da curb and bent my cvd...has any of u bent a cvd b4?

http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[PJCruz]

Dswright, actually the personal transponder is a bit larger than a stamp and connects to my receiver into a 3rd channel. It's a lot lighter than a regular one as well. Advantage is I own it, it stays IN MY truck, and it will count my laps for me during warm ups and before the events so I can try new stuff (i.e. tires, toe in etc) and see if an improvement is made. It's really small. I just want to find a place where it will stay in place.. and yet as far forward as possible.

It's like $50 and worth it if you do any frequent racing. Also, each one is a unique serial # so once you have it.. the AMB software will know it's you each time as long as you registered for the race.

Pete

[Speedpro2]

I was going to buy a touring car first but then i changed my mind to buying a xxx-nt truck. I wanted to know if the xxx-nt was a 4wd or 2wd car?

[Nutter]

2WD..


-Nutter

[Nutter]

Aaron: oh yea, I've been wondering about this.. you say that the Panther soft compound is much softer than the Losi red compound.. how much shorter do their tires last then? It's not an issue for you obviously :p but it is for the rest of us!


-Nutter

[Alex-XXXNT]

Hey guys! Im new here and look foward to getting to know some of you. Ive gone through the posts, and must say...WOW!. There is so many helpful and knowledgeable people in here. I think I finally found the goldmine of RC help Ive been looking for.

I recently bought a XXX-NT RTR about 1.5 weeks ago and have enjoyed it a lot. It is my first Nitro car and I am exponentially learning all the ins and outs of their tedious ways. So far I have broke it in and ran about 5 more tanks. Needless to say, this think hawls some ass! Though, I have one problem that I think you guys will be able to help me with.

QUESTION:
In order to get my engine started, I almost always have to put a little nitro in my engine directly through the glow plug hole. This usually makes it fire up within 10 pulls. If I dont do this, I end up pulling that damn cord until a blister forms on my finger.
This is also a problem when I stall it after running it for a while. I end up having to put a little nitro in the hole to get it to fire up again. Sometimes it take a while to get it going again. Though, sometimes it will fire right back up again.

MY KINDEGARDEN DIAGNOSIS:
It seems to me that the reason it wont fire up right away is because there is no fuel getting to the engine. There is gas in the exhaust tube, but not the tube leading to the engine. I can only think that there is some sort of suction problem. I really dont know though, because Im way to new to all this.

What do you guys think? Thanks for the help!

[Nutter]

Hey Alex & welcome! :) That's easy to fix.. just put your finger over the stinger (where the exhaust comes out of) while you pull on the pull-starter a few times, until you can see that fuel has reached the carb. This is called priming the engine. The engine relies on back-pressure in the exhaust to push the fuel into the carb, via the pressure line that you can see running from the pipe to the fuel tank, and when the engine isn't running, there is no back-pressure; hence your problem where the fuel won't flow into the carb.

Oh, and thank you for reading before you posted, I sure wish more people would do that sometimes, hehe :p


-Nutter

[andy51289]

Alex- Where in NC do you live? Anyways you might have your fuel lines backwards. Also your low end needle (the one on the side) might need to be richend up (counter-clockwise.) If that doesn't work, then I don't know what will!

[Alex-XXXNT]

Thanks guys, I will try that next time I go out.

Andy -
I live in Raleigh. I see your in Charlotte. Sweet! Small world. How many others in the forum are form the NC area? Any from Raleigh? Raleigh sucks for RC tracks, how is Charlotte?

[andy51289]

Well there are a lot of guys form NC on teamtrinity.com's message board and the Starting Grid message board, but most of them are form the charlotte area. There arn't any offroad tracks in charlotte so all of us usually go to rock hill, sc and aiken, sc and King, Nc, and stokesdale, NC and the list goes on and on...check out www.ncorra.com for info on tracks around the area!

[Speedpro2]

Sup Its me again.
:D I want to know if the Special Edition kit of the XXX-NT has a engine. I need to know because i might buy that and get the XR-2 or buy a XXX-NT Sport RTR. Which is better to buy a XXX-NT Special Edition Kit or XXX-NT Sport RTR. And lastly does anybody know what the difference between them is besides an engine and a radio.

[Nutter]

Speedpro: I'm not sure which XXX-NT you mean. There are:
- The XXX-NT Ready to Race which is factory driver built and includes a Picco .12 engine and JR XR3 radio.
- The XXX-NT Adam Drake Edition which is a kit and includes no radio gear or engine.
- The XXX-NT Sport RTR includes a Mach .15 engine and JR XR2 radio (the AM version of the XR3, which is FM).

The XXX-NT Adam Drake Edition comes with pretty much all parts in graphite (very rigid, little flex), and nearly every hop-up already in the kit.
The standard XXX-NT kit and the XXX-NT Ready to Race come with rigid plastic parts, but not as rigid as the ADE's.
The XXX-NT Sport RTR comes with less rigid plastic parts (harder to break for newbies), a non-T6 aluminium chassis (not as hard, but it's still quite hard), and non-teflon sealed ball bearings (they're still sealed ball bearings though).

A .15 engine is not legal for racing while a .12 is, but most clubs will let .15's run in the novice (beginner) class.


-Nutter

[Speedpro2]

:D Thanks Nutter
Now that i you gave me all that information i can know which one to pick. You sound to be a very experienced driver so where do you think i can get a xxx-nt with the XR-2 and Mach .15 engine for the cheapest price. Also i want to know if there is an aftermarket company that has titanium or aluminum parts instead of plastic. Lastly i want to ask is what you recommend because you seem to know alot more than me. Thanks again Nutter. If you answer these questions for me i will be thankfull. :D :D :D Thanks

P.S. Where can i find the RTR with the XR-3 and Picco .12 engine and whats the lowest price for the sport RTR, Drake kit, XR-3 Picco RTR

[andy51289]

speedpro: One word: eBay. On eBay you can find any one of those kits brand new still in the box for cheaper than in stores!

[Nutter]

As andy said, eBay is your best bet for a cheap XXX-NT, as Horizon Hobby likes to fix their price in stores (both real stores and online stores), so there isn't much (if any) difference between where you get it from.
For aluminium parts, there aren't many as the XXX-NT is a racer, so pretty much everything that's available is with race performance in mind. There are aluminium front and rear pivot blocks, and front & rear hubs made by Trinity though, you'll find them as part of the Team Kinwald line.


-Nutter

[soccer25]

I got my ultra start starterbox to work that I was having problems making fit the xxxnt, but I am new to using a starter box and gas trucks and am having trouble getting it to turn my engine over. I have an OS CVR and have only been able to start the truck once. I have the fly wheel lined up as far as i can tell. In the directions for the engine it says that the engine will be tight at the top of the stroke, until the engine is warm and it just seems the box can not turn the engine past the top of the stroke. Any ideas on what i may be able to do or tips on using a starter box.

If this is the wrong place to post this question I'm sorry and where should i post it.

[TyroneShoelaces]

You could use a hair dryer to heat the engine up. I had to do that with my MT12 to get it started when it was new.

[DR.GT]

soccer25:

Loosen your glow plug 1/4 to 1/2 turn and try to start it. The flywheel should turn when the starter box engages.

let us know...:)

[cabbynate]

Dr.GT nailed it!!!!!
Just don't forget to tight-in it back up after it starts. http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[igozoom]

Need some help guys.

I am running the Trinity 1100 mah 5 cell hump packs. Last night I had one dump in the first heat (three minutes driving) and a second batt dump in the main ( 2 minutes driving). Both were charged by an Intellipeak digital charger prior to racing. I am charging at the lowest setting (.5 amps). The batts barely get warm when charging so I don't believe I am cooking them. DNF'ing twice using two different batts is discouraging.

Any ideas ? Losing two packs at 39 each is an expensive evening.

[igozoom]

Raced the Drake last night. Truck is incredible. I have encountered only one problem. The pipe mount set screw stripped. I am certain that I did not overtorque. :mad:

Has anyone else had this problem ? Any ideas on how I can resolve or do I just have to eat it for a another pipe.

[Mach3]

Hey Igozoom, I normal charge my recivier pack at 1 amp because I was told anymore than that could hurt the cells.What I suspect happen is the higher amp rate got the voltage up high at the start & your charger false peeked that why you got so little run time. My advice would be to get a charger that can charge at 1 or 1.5 amp to safely charge your recivier packs.
Later Mach3

[DsWright]

I would even go as low as .5 amps to get the best charge out of your NIMH packs......

[Speedpro2]

Hey does anybody know where i could buy seperate graphite parts for the triplex-nt. And does anybody know how much one of these stock parts of the sport rtr will last

[soccer25]

TyroneShoelaces, DR.GT, cabbynate:

Thanks for the info im going to give that a try today ill let you know how it turns out.

One other question sould the engine get easier to start after it is broke in.

Thanks again

[sprintr]

just run the stock plastic arms..they are cheaper,won`t break as quick and most people are not good enough to notice the difference....the stock arms on the sport will last longer than graphite arms

[Nutter]

Speedpro: You can get graphite parts online at Stormer Hobbies (http://www.stormerhobbies.com) and Horizon Hobby (http://www.horizonhobby.com).

soccer: Yes, it will be a lot easier to turn over once it's broken in, you won't need to loosen the glow plug or heat the engine with a hair drier.


-Nutter

[cabbynate]

Igozoom,
Just scrap the Drake pipe mount and use the mount from the standard XXXNT. They are stronger anyway.http://www.plauder-smilies.de/party/ylsuper.gif

[cabbynate]

Igozoom,
Also are you sure the charger only gose down to 4.5amps? I should go down to at least 1amp wich would be perfect to charge receiver packs.

[Speedpro2]

Thanks Sprintr and Nutter. I going to stick with the stock plastic parts and then switch over to the gaphite when the stock parts break. Whats the fastest speed anybody has run on their TripleX-NT. Sorry if i asking to many questions but I'm a newbie who just got into rc by my friend:p :p :p

[cabbynate]

Speedpro2,
That is a tuff question. The guys with the high proformance .12's are probably going 35-40mph. That is really fast for truck a with bad aerodynamics. Most tracks don't have a long enough stright to use that kind of topend anyway. http://www.plauder-smilies.de/yellows/a_smil08.gif

[Speedpro2]

My friend has a RC10GT RTR and I'm about to buy a XXX-NT RTR w/XR2 and Mach .15 Engine. Without being bias to one of these RTRs which one is a better choice to buy. MY friend said that the RC10GT is more durable than the XXX-NT. Also he said that the engine was way better than the Mach .15. Please help me out before i make a stupid decision. Please is you have both RTRs tell me which one is better. :confused:

[cabbynate]

Speedpro2,
R/C car Magazine just did a shootout with these two trucks and the XXXNT came out on top.

[Nutter]

Radio Control Nitro also just did a shootout between 10 different RTR nitro stadium trucks, and the XXX-NT Sport RTR came out #1. From what they said in the article, the NT's got the better engine too (about 5 MPH faster than the GT).


-Nutter

[soccer25]

Well i got my starter box to start my truck. Loosening the glow plug worked like a charm thanks for all the help.

Now i can finaly break in my engine

Thanks again

[PJCruz]

Guys, my next race is this coming weekend.. and unfortunately this weekend I didn't get to mess with my XXXNT at all. I was hoping to run a few tanks of the Trinity 20% fuel (switching from BT Race Formula 20%) and adjust/tighten the diff. That never happened...

I am working the whole week (off Thursday though ;-), and am debating whether I should run the trinity at the race or the BT. I have been getting decent results with the BT but the temps have been a bit high (about 260-280) on my Picco 12. I am sure I can get cooler temps with the picco with Trinity.. but is that something I want to mess with on RACE DAY?

My tuning ability isnt bad.. not a master.. but I pretty much know what I'm doing... I just don't want to be flaming out all over.. but I want to run the Trinity juice. PLUS, I have 2 NEW quarts AND the Trinity Nitro Kooler too.. and the BT I have a gallon (no kooler yet =).

Assuming I do NOT get a chance on Thursday to run a few tanks of Trinity, would you just run the BT on race day and save the trinity stuff for afterwards?? My temps were a bit high (see above), but the truck ran strong once warmed up and never "flamed out."

Thanks guys. This week I'm prepping my "bodies", mounting the transponder, and double checking all the fasteners and stuff. It's setup as Drake's dirt to start heat 1.

Pete

[DR.GT]

PJCruz:

Unless you can run about 3 tanks thru your engine before race day DON'T change fuel at the race. Its always good to go back to breakin settings for 2-3 tanks of the new fuel before fine tuning. This gives your engine a chance to adjust to the differences in fuel types and oil content mixtures and not harm it.
:)

[cabbynate]

PJ,
Also you may want to get those temps down some. 260-280 is on the high side. What % fuel are you using? Also what plug and Header/pipe combo are you using? You should be able to get great power at lower temps.

[DR.GT]

Hi guys:

Well the verdict is in for hard packed dusty slippery tracks. I'm running the AD setup with pink rear springs. I also put a .20 washer under the rear end of the pivot block on each side and added 4 quarters of weight in the battery box.

The truck has great rear traction now especially on slippery track conditions and even better on wet track conditions. I noticed a little bit of difference in jumping but nothing major to worry about at all and just a slight on power push coming out of the corners. I still had tons of steering.

I was able to get 2 more laps in on our 15 minute A main yesterday (3 races = 3 wins) and was able to drive the truck much more aggressively because of the rear traction.

:D

[PJCruz]

I'm running Blue Thunder 20% Race Formula with an MC59 Mccoy plug.. of course in the picco .12. I have the Ready to Race kit (built by Drake ;-), NOT the RTR currently available. So it's the silver pipe that comes with it, with the stock header. I DO have a Rb x12 silver pipe on my Reflex NT (which is just chillin' till a local track opens up). Hmm.....

Anyways.. I know most people get crazy a&& power from the picco at lower temps.. but mine is running fine.. I have it to idle about 10 seconds and still give a good launch... maybe my high end is a touch too lean..

I hope to get some "time" this week to run it some more.. maybe with the Trinity 20%

Pete

PS: Go Portugal!! ;-)

[andy51289]

Winnning Edge Designs: Good Job at the Pro Race!! Second in the A-main in 1/8 scale!!! I wish I could have been there......oh well.

[tHe cOokIe]

what engine do u recommend after the stock engine on the rtr sport "gets old" and i want more power?

.12's please. i will be racing.

[WHITESTER1]

Here's some footage of our new layout at my local offroad track. I was doing the filming... Big air off the table top triple. LOL There will be a whoop section going in the small straight just before the main straight. Didn't have time to put it in before the race this past Sunday.

Let me know what you guys think.


Click here for video (http://members.wnyip.net/whitester/videos/gastruck6092.wmv)

[andy51289]

THE COOKIE: You will need nothing but an OS .12 CV with a Thunder Tiger chrome piston and sleeve that is made to fit their .12 engine. I'm not sure if they make the piston and sleeve anymore....

[diesel757]

pjcruz- try switching fuels. i switched to trinity and noticed a little difference in temps(lower, like10-15deg). i also noticed a little more ease with tuning. now i am running sidewinder 25% and still running lower than i was with blue thunder. blue thunder seems to gunk up alot in the engine and pipe. alot of guys at my track run odonnel fuel with great results. :)

the cookie- i'm running a RB X-12 and boy does it ever have power. and that's with temps under 220 deg. but you still have to give it to O.S. the cv-r is an awesome engine as well.:D

andy51289- why would remove the os piston/sleeve and go with a TT? i don't see the point.:confused:

[andy51289]

diesel757: The stock piston and sleeve is made of nickel, and the TTR one is made of chrome. Chrome will last longer and make more power...

[cabbynate]

PJ,
It looks like everything you have is top notch so keep up the good work. When you change fuel you may see a differance in temp. If you can find one, maybe try a Mc Coy MC8 glow plug. Leave the carb settings alone and see what happens. I did it and my power went up and my temps went down 20 degreese. I also run a Picco .12.
:)

[winning edge designs]

Andy,Thanks alot!...I could have been in it in Gas truck as well,but bad luck kept me from making in into the show. Wanna hear about it?...ok.
I had the O-ring split on my over 1 year old tank in the first round and fall into the tank,:(. I flamed out 4 times and finished 3 laps down on the leader. In round two I had just moved into 2nd when an overzelous racer decided I shouldn't get past him and I ejected a rear dogbone on impact over a 20 foot table top. In round three i won my heat and TQed the round overall. In round 4 I got 2nd in my heat and was 6th or 7th over all I think. But it was too little too late. First in the B,DOUGH! Then ran out of gas while in 2nd in the B main from pushing the gas mileage too far!

In 1/8th I ran out of gas and lost a few laps myself,but other people had the trouble rather then me for a change. And since Mike B is from the west coast series races,I actually got 1st place trophy and Points in 8th,10th in truck!...................:),Jim

[PJCruz]

What the heck is a WHOOP section?? Heck, while I'm at it... what are tabletops.... My local track PROBABLY has them.. I just call em something else.. this way I can speak the same language.

Also, do any of you have a "motorcross" starting gate for your tracks? I think it rocks =)

Pete

[XXXtacy]

We use motocross style starts during heat races- but no gate.

[Kritter626]

whoops are rollers...one after another...from the side they look like a sine wave

table top is a jump that is flat and long on top...looks like a table

never seen a MX style starting gate...would be kind of wierd.

[PJCruz]

Originally posted by Kritter626
whoops are rollers...one after another...from the side they look like a sine wave

table top is a jump that is flat and long on top...looks like a table

never seen a MX style starting gate...would be kind of wierd.

AHHH.....Thanks Kritter. Yes, my track has those... except I was calling the whoops the "washboard" although they have removed a few of the "bumps" so there's more rhythym to it now.. before it was a mess. =)


Yeah, the gates are kool... when the announcer calls it, your pitman puts you in the gate.. and you can give it some throttle but the gate keeps you there... when they open the gate you're off.. NO false starts. =)

Thanks

Pete

[andy51289]

<HTML>
Yeah at Aiken we use MX style starting gates....it's pretty cool, but the starting gate is in front of the back straight and the gate itself is wider than the straight, so there is almost a for sure pileup if there is a full heat.

PJCruz: A tabletop looks like this: ______
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; / &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; \


and a Whoop de Whoop looks like this: ^^^^^^

</HTML>

[jcnmt]

hey andy!where do you race?i will be in NC the last week of june.i am wondering how far the track is from Maggie Valley.thanks man.

[Kritter626]

washboard is like a freshly tractor graded road in the desert...the kind that vibrates the crap out of an ordinary car or "washes" out the rear end while driving.

[andy51289]

Originally posted by Kritter626
washboard is like a freshly tractor graded road in the desert...the kind that vibrates the crap out of an ordinary car or "washes" out the rear end while driving.

LOL BOyd pond road in aiken. JIm you know what I'm talkin about!!!

[andy51289]

jcmnt- I race all over the region.....I'm not familiar with maggie valley. all I know is that its in the mountains.

[jcnmt]

hey do you know of any tracks in the moutains?THANKS

[andy51289]

no sorry I don't....

[WHITESTER1]

Hey Nutter, I sent you a PM did you receive it? The reason I ask is because my computer decided to act up when I sent the PM's.


I appologize to the rest of you, I know Nutter frequents this thread.

[Nutter]

Hey whitester.. oops! I did get them, but I was on my way to bed & didn't have time to reply.. and silly me forgot about it, hehe :p

Thanks for the reminder, sending a reply now. :)


-Nutter

[FastEddy]

What engine are you folks running, and why?

I’m trying to decide what to get.
I will be running on a short indoor track near sea level with a XXX-NT Drake.

Thanks.

[winning edge designs]

Andy,ys,there is 3 miles of "washboard" into the aiken track,LOL! Track is awesome for gas racing though even so!

Fast eddy,I'm running an O.S. CV-R. It has the best carb in the business and makes WAY more power then most tracks and drivers can handle. But it does it with smotth delivery and good drivability. Kind of strange that an engine with this much power let's you drive with control. Unlike some of the Novarossi based mugens,etc. I have run in the past.........Stick with a barrel carb also and it'll be like "butta"!.........Jim

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

i run an OS Cv-r...its a good engine...i dont race much but lots of people hav it and are happy wit it

http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[NItro-Smoke]

O.S CV-R Baby! this engine rocks, runs solid as a rock at a very low temp-220. I have raced a full 6 minutes and hit it with the temp gun at 210 and my truck was pullin the front wheels off the ground down the front stretch. Tons of power and I have about 2.5 gallons on it so far and no signs of slowing down.:D :D :D

[sprintr]

I have a CV-R in my truck right now..had a Novarossi but it hit to hard and was to hard for me to control..I ran a CZ-Z last week and that is a good motor for offroad but I wanted to try someting different.i stuck the CV-R in tonite and was practicing with it ..very smooth power(unlike the Novarossi)..I`ll let it in for next week and see how I like it during race conditions

[sprintr]

oh and if anyone wants a Novarossi C12 I have one to sell:D ..it has a new piston and sleeve with 8 tanks threw it...way to fast for this pipe busting hacker

[FastEddy]

Wow lots of OS fans. Gota love it… :p
.12 or .15?

[DR.GT]

sprintr:

I have a buddy looking for a C12 ( side exhaust). Is this engine just broken in, rebuilt & broken in, or....

email me at molsonindy@telus.net with the info and pics if you have them as he needs one bad!

thanks...:D

[tarvymoto]

If a track has alot of grip... the more horses an engine has the better. On a super hard pack - dusty track , even a CVR can be a handfull. Moral of the story is that if your track has some serious bite you can go for a ballsy italian engine:cool:

[DR.GT]

Tarvy:

Well said.....BUT...

If you've got a great Italian engine and its to much HP for the track" LEARN THROTTLE CONTROL". I'm a great fan of both OS CVR's and the Italian thorobloods and I fully believe that a great engine deserves a driver to accent it to its best potential. If you can give me the horses I'll do my best to try to find a way to get them down to the track with traction!

I hate it with a passion when I can't get to the end of the straightaway at least even with good equipment, there is no excuse other than BAD DRIVING!

I'm probably to competetive so I apologize to all, so sorry!

:)

[WHITESTER1]

I ran an OS.12 CV-R last season, great power, no problems. This season I am running the OS.12 TR so far, great power, no problems. You can't beat OS's reliability. They might not be the fastest engines made, but they are the MOST reliable. And the power made from both the TR and the CV-R are just about equal, and more than enough for most tracks.

[tarvymoto]

Dr. , I agree. My driving style is smooth and clean so I like as much power as I can get for my local tracks , wich are a little soft but very tacky. I run a Picco rear exhaust w/ a slide carb and a torgy pipe. However when I traveled to a track in a diferent state than where I live , I had my hands full. The track I visited was very hard pack/dusty and water was only applied once beore the begining of the race. Can you say SLICK. Setup had some influence in that circumstance because alot of the locals where getting around quit nicely.

I like alot of power but I don'recomend that everybody go out and buy the most powerful engive that they can find. The CVR is an engine that has plenty of horses but won't treat you like a cowboy at a rodeo.:D

[bullett1818]

I have gotten one step closer to getting The XXX NT Sport. I see now that Horizon Hobby Has the XXXNT SPORT in an ARR version which is the rtr less radio reciever and servos. and it's only 249.99. So im going to get the ARR version and just use my Traxxas TQ radio and servo's untill I can afford the JR XR3!!! WooHOOOO I cant wait!!!!!!!!!


-BULLETT-

[FastEddy]

Other threads are having the same issues.
I cant post, get a timeout message.

[FastEddy]

Just started to build my XXXNT-Drake. I’m just digging in to the transmission bag today. What a well-engineered kit. All the parts fit well and it seems nothing has been overlooked. I went searching for my shim bag in the toolbox then noticed that they included then for the steering, nice touch. No body flex on this ride, Beefy.

Steering servo placement seems a bit tight. I guess that Ill need to get the adjustment right the first time. It looks like a lot of work to get it in and out for the initial setup.

Any hints on what specks I should look for in choosing my servos?

[diesel757]

yeah I have a ton of e-mails also.

fast eddie, I use a Hitec 625 steering and a 645 for throttle. these servos can't be beat for the money. only around $45-$55. not too bad for metal gear hi-torque servos.

[winning edge designs]

Aaron,Do I need to start posting all my sponsors too now,LOL.........i'll need to cut and paste it? I'm sure they won't mind it? (just messin' with you).

............Had a rough go in gas truck in Aiken,but squeeked out a 10th overall. Won the 1/8th scale(after Mike Battaile from the west coast was excluded from collecting points in both....that guys fast!)......:),Jim

[bullett1818]

HEY Is it fixed!!?!?!? Kewl Lets get postin again!!! -BULLETT-

[jdm3849]

I think you have that backwards,should'nt you be using the 645 for steering(like me) and 625 for throttle?

[jcnmt]

how do you all get sponsered?:confused:

[Sike]

I had my XXXT MFE for a few months now and I'm loving it. I broke quite a few parts though after my last crash (http://community.webshots.com/album/35196712UUQmDp) (by the bottom of that page). I'm getting another gas and I want it offroad, so I turn to the XXXNT DE since I want a hopped up one already plus I had many tire/wheel combo. I might as well same some money on the way by buying a truck where my wheels fit.

I have some questions though....
I'm thinking of using the new OS .12TR rotary. rotary seems like thing for offroad control much easier. Also, do I need the standard shaft or SG?

The wheels from my XXXT do fit the XXXNT, right?

does that engine also runs good with mc coy 59 plugs? I have some new from my mt12 engine.

thanx in advance
Sike
>=]

[Nutter]

Originally posted by Sike
I'm thinking of using the new OS .12TR rotary. rotary seems like thing for offroad control much easier. Also, do I need the standard shaft or SG?Standard, and yes rotary is the way to go.

The wheels from my XXXT do fit the XXXNT, right?Yep - not only the wheels, but much the entire front end will too. The front arms, shock tower, bulkhead, bumper, carriers, knuckles, ... :)


-Nutter

[jdm3849]

I am going to be getting The Triple-XNT sport,what are some extra things i should buy? Like what glow plugs? If the shock oil weight is too light for bashing and jumping what weight should i get? etc...

also,what nitro fuel should i get? monster horsepower 20%?
and are dynamite locking metered rechargable glow igniters good?

[andy51289]

Hey jim what setup did you run at aiken???

[andy51289]

for 1/10 gas truck

[2canSAM21]

bullet1818

Man give these guys a call (507) 281-8321

I just picked up the Full RTR for $280.00 from them. This is one awesome truck. I had sold of my RC10gt FT fully hopped up because my new track wasn't going to have a Gas Class. Well after talking to the owner a little more he is ready to set the class up. I picked up the RTR kit and a few extra parts and this thing rocks. Handles WAY better then my 10gt and I have not broken anything yet. The 10gt was breaking something almost evertime it went out. So far I have added

Lunsford Ti TB/HP set
Rocket City Captured Ball Ends in the rear
Put a washer over the lower rear shock mount
and an Associated Tuned Pipe

Set it up like Drakes' "Dirt Hemet" setup and could never be happier. You made a great choice for a truck


On another note how many of you route the battery wire out of the side vs the front of the battery box? Also I have a bunch of RC10GT wheels that will fit the XXXnt but they make the truck wider. How much will this throw the trucks geometry off? Should I really be worried about it?

[losifreak2004]

Jim - Is it just me or did all those posts get deleted? I got an e-mail asking me to stop doing that also..... HAHAHA!

2cansam - The GT wheels are a bad idea...

I route my wires through the front of the battery box, through the shock tower, and zip-tie it to the tranny brace.

Glad to hear you like the truck!

jdm - After breaking in the engine, I reccomend McCoy MC59 glowplugs (grab a few). I have been running Trinity 20% for a while now, and it runs great!

A few spare arms, and a rear shock tower or two would be the first things to get. That Dynamite igniter will work just fine.

The stock setup should be fine for messing around the yard. For racing, run 40 wt. in the rear shocks.

Sike - Standard shaft. And yes, MC59's work great!

Again, glad to hear you liked it!

jcnmt - Go to big races, do well, and promote the product!

I've also heard kissing up does quite well, but I haven't tried it :p

Is that it?

Aaron Waldron
(Tempted to say it, but I can't)

[Sike]

thank you for the response guys.

When I first bought my Standard Shaft MT12 for my nitro 4tec, I had to cut almost half of its shaft, have you guys had to cut part of the shaft also for your XXXNT?

Which manifold have you guys used? on tower, they have three types, the last two is for high and low speed.

oh yea, it's good to know that a lot of parts are interchangeable, it save extra $$$ on the extra parts department. I have to buy 2 sets of hole shots. American Raceway in NJ seem have the majority of the guys running it there. Gonna start this racing thing now :)

TIA
Sike
>=]

[tarvymoto]

Sike , use the Trinity #8125 manifold for rear exhaust engines. You don't have to cut the shaft on a standard shaft engine for the NT

I've raced onroad at American Raceway during an HPI challenge where they raced offroad too. Losi Ifmar pins should work there too if the track is moist. NJ boys know how to through it down. Make a trip to Family Hobbies too if you get the chance. It's about 1.5 hours south of Englishtown.

[cabbynate]

Hey Aaron,
Is there any other place on the web where you can get Panthers tires other than their web site? Suggested retail on their site is kinda high. The step-pins look great and from what you said the med-soft sound sweet!!!
Other wise I think I can get HobbyTown to order me some.
C-YA!!!!!!!!
Nate. http://www.plauder-smilies.de/person/fro.gif

[Sike]

Tarvy. I'm from Toms River, Englishtown is 30 North of me. Family Hobbies in Vineland? for only 45 Mintues from Englishtown? How fast are you going? :)

I was gonna go to Family Hobbies since they're the only one with my XXXT transmission case but according to Mapquest, that's 2 hours away (85miles). The track seems really big on the picture... hope it's really what you see.

[tarvymoto]

Sike , maybe it is more like 1.5 hrs... I've never driven from one track to the other.

The Family Hobbies track is a bit smaller in person but it's still nice size. The jumps there are perfectly manicured and track is very well maintaned. There is also plenty of local fast guys which makes for great racing.

[losifreak2004]

Nate - I haven't found any mail order places yet that carry Panther...

Have your Hobbytown call 1-866-700-TIRE and set up a dealer account!

Aaron Waldron
Panther Tire Team Driver

[ryanbakewell52]

I i'm trying to decide on a good engine for my xxx-nt. I dont do proper racing but i will be racing with my friends and may get in to the real stuff.

Ive looked at os engines and this forum, and you guys seem to recomend te os cv-r. Is this the .15 or the .12.

Also what do you think about the trinity picco engine.

Thanks for your help

[diesel757]

picco's are not the easiest engine to tune. go with a os .12 so you will be roar legal. the .12 produces a little more rpms. this engine has plenty of low end. the os is probably the easiest enginee made to tune.

rob

[Sike]

we went to wildwood today so we might as well stopped there on the way home... it's somewhat the same size as American Raceway. we got lost so many times coz it's out of nowhere and the lady that worked there gave us the wrong direction. It's all good though. Nice small little track. I always thought it's big as the one on the pic in RCCA. (Photoshop effect?)

more on the XXNT, do you need to buy a linkage kit or something? I think it was on the Nitro mag issue that the one included it weak. is that true?

[PJCruz]

Today I had my 2nd race with my NT. Well, I did fair a bit better this time.. though still had some trouble.

I did switch to the Trinity 20% and so far I haven't noticed a major difference b/w it and the Blue Thunder 20% yet.. but with the other trouble I fought with all day.. I didn't get a chance to really dig into the Picco.

It took me forever to get the picco started... in fact I nearly wore down my starter box BEFORE the Drivers meeting (pre-1st heat). I had to do some inventive stuff to keep that box going the rest of the day. It also doesn't help the NT loves to chomp on starter wheels =) And the box had a full charge...
LESSON1: Loosen the plug when starting on the starter box and once it starts tighten it back down. Once I figured that out.. I mananged to use the box with one red light on the rest of the day (on the power panel).

My first heat come up and I got out thre. and ran about to warm up (although I had started up the picco the heat before to warm it up in the pits)... got out there and she was fine... Came back in, topped off and never finished my first lap.... BLEW MY DIFF,
LESSON2: DO NOT forget to readjust/tighten diff after a few tanks after rebuilding.
RESULT: Melted diff gear and balls. Hobby shop did NOT have the diff gear. A local had MORE LOSI parts than the shop.. and sold me the gear. More of the guys, helped me with the rebuild. Missed HEAT#2.. but made the main (and I did adjust/tighten diff this time).

I ended up in B main (18 trucks), and finished 3rd. No blow parts/gears, etc. However, for the main... my truck was ALL OVER. The track had gone dry/dusty and was blue groovin.. and I put on a new set of Losi red REptiles..
LESSON3: As the day wears on.. track dries out and blue grooves... make note next time and select appropriate rubber.

Some misc notes:
*I ran the Drake "Dirt" setup and really like it.. the truck holds it's line well at full throttle down the straight (little zig zaging) and takes the turns well on-throttle. I did notice on the jumps... the truck tends to "push off" harder with the rear which causes the nose to "dive" more. So in other words.. JUMP and give it gas??

* My picco while not a nightmare today ( had more trouble with the darn box)... seems to be running far too hot. Granted the temp today in Houston was over 90 with humidity of like a million BUT I figured I'd drop the temps when switching to Trinity MH from Blue Thunder. Temp stayed about the same *mid/upper 200's*. SO, I wonder if the "standard" settings on the picco are off (at least for mine). I am thinking 3 out on low, and 2 out on high end is not right. I may try 3 out on high (or 2 1/2) and 2 out on low and start there... idle and low end response is rough and temps are still miserable.

* Blue Groove: What are you guys using for this? Today I had Losi Reptiles and Proline Edge fronts.. and the main I was fishing out.. but in my heat warm up I was fine.. Proline Edge F/Proline Bowtie rears.. but track wasn't grooved yet..

Thanks dudes.

Pete

PS: I am wondering if selecting another pipe would help the picco response/tuning.. what are you guys running for pipes on your piccos?

[ryanbakewell52]

What sort of speeds will i get out of the xxx-nt with a o.s. cv-r .12
In it?

Thanks

[ryanbakewell52]

I am getting a bit fed up now, my xxx-nt it sitting next to me with no engine in it. I cant decide on an engine, ive got a number of engines in my head but dont know which ones. The:cv-r, cv-x, picco or mabye something completely different.

I want to go about 40mph (to beat my mates 1/8 scale buggie) but i wont be doing proper racing. I also dont want to spend loads.

Someone plese help me!

Ryan

[Nutter]

Go up a few teeth on the clutch bell if you want more speed, but it's unlikely that you'll be able to beat a 1/8th with a good engine - they're very powerful, and your friend can always go up a few teeth on their clutch bell too. Don't worry about who's the fastest in a drag race, race on a track against your friend - that way it'll be mostly who's the best driver.
Go with the CV-R, you won't be dissapointed by its performance, nor will you be frustrated by it as OS engines are easy to tune.


-Nutter

[nitro-fury]

Hey PJ I am glad to see you got your diff rebuilt for the mains. I am the one who had the Drake truck. I got 2nd in the first heat and fourth in the 2nd heat. Unfortunatly I had to leave to go to work and missed my A main. I was running the losi red compound step pins in the rear and getting decent traction all day. I just need some more practice drving this truck and hopefully I will be doing much better.

Chris

[losifreak2004]

ryanbakewell - Get the O.S. .12 CV-R. You won't be disappointed. It's fast, easy to tune, starts easy, durable, everything.

A truck will not outrun a 4WD buggy. Put a 17 tooth clutch bell on for drag racing (anything larger than the 18 will bog the engine down). This will allow the engine to rev faster and higher, and will be as fast as you can get it to go (your best shot at keeping up with your buddy's car)

If you are ever wide open long enough for the engine to pull through a 19 tooth clutch bell, you've been wide open too long and will probably blow up your engine.....

PJ - Do you have your pressure fitting mounted on the cap? Your engine should not still be that tight. Either it's not fully broken in, or the engine is hydrolocking. This is why loosening the glow plug helps.

It is important to recheck the diff every two minutes for the first ten minutes after a rebuild. After that, you should be fine.

When the track gets dry-dusty like that, try T-2000's or Panther Switches. If there isn't a fully developed groove, however, it's a safer bet to stay with step pins.

When jumping, accelerate up to the face of the jump, then let off. Get back on the gas once you are on the face of the jump (after the initial transition from flat ground to the takeoff) and roll off the throttle in the air.

Sike - Some people try to act fast and put fuel tubing on the linkage instead of the springs (like RCCA did). The truck doesn't come with springs for no reason.....

Aaron Waldron
Panther Tire Team Driver

[ryanbakewell52]

thanks alot. i think ill go with the .12 o.s. cv-r.

Thanks

[diesel757]

HAPPY FATHER'S DAY TO ALL!
(new dad, if you can't tell)

PJ try running losi red comp step pins, that what I've been running on our track(blue groove) with excellent results. I also run the stock losi front tires. I tried the prolines up front but the losi's suited me better. I just switched to sidewinder 25% fuel and my temps are still about the same as with the trinity. I run my low end quite fat and my top end a little lean. the track I run at is fairly technical with only one long straight(well not that long). my engine temps seemed to decrease running like this. the down side is that the engine will load up much faster and not idle as long sitting still. blurping the throttle takes care of that. well congrates on the 3rd place finish. oh yeah, what starter box are you using? had trouble with mine at first too.

[losifreak2004]

Running a fatter bottom end and a leaner top end is the way to go....it will help smooth out the initial hit, keep temperatures down, and still give you enough power. When tuned right, your truck shouldn't be able to idle for much more than 45 seconds (according to Regan LeBlanc).

If the track is blue-grooved with no dust on top, step-pins will skate right across the top. If the track has grooved but has not been swept, try Reptiles or Bow-Ties.

In my past experiences, the Pro-Line Edges have TOO much steering. The Losi Directionals are great on most tracks, but too edgy on swept blue groove. Also, try the Razor Pins on dusty blue groove tracks.

Aaron Waldron
Panther Tire Team Driver

[Racin Rev]

PJ
One thing you might try to prevent you from having to fool around with having to unscrew the glow plug is to refrain from filling your gas tank until just before starting it. I had this problem racing last week but never had a problem while out practicing. In the hot weather there is a tendency for the fuel to get pushed into the engine. if the tank is less full there is more "cushion." Another guy at our track fills his tank but clamps the fuel line with forcepts. With this technique the fuel isn't going anywhere.

[PJCruz]

Originally posted by nitro-fury
Hey PJ I am glad to see you got your diff rebuilt for the mains. I am the one who had the Drake truck. I got 2nd in the first heat and fourth in the 2nd heat. Unfortunatly I had to leave to go to work and missed my A main. I was running the losi red compound step pins in the rear and getting decent traction all day. I just need some more practice drving this truck and hopefully I will be doing much better.

Chris

Awesome! So someone else from J's is on here. Too bad you didn't make the main.. it was a really good one. I think they decided to go a full 10 minutes for it.. same with the buggies. I have a set of Step pINS (red) but they are "tweaked" and wobble, so I didnt use them.. I managed to get a diff gear from one of the other XXXNT drivers... he had MORE Losi parts in his pit box than J's had on the wall. I rebuilt the diff and was out in plenty of time for the main.. I even had some time for some minor engine tuning and "breaking in" the diff. Nice to talk to ya, on the web this time.

Pete

PS: We'll have to hook up some time on the track and maybe work together. The THRC want to make a racing series for "teams." That would be cool.

[PJCruz]

Originally posted by losifreak2004

PJ - Do you have your pressure fitting mounted on the cap? Your engine should not still be that tight. Either it's not fully broken in, or the engine is hydrolocking. This is why loosening the glow plug helps.
Well, it should be broken in now.. I just think my starter box was weak... I charged it a few days before the race and left it at that... I need to get one of those "peak chargers" for the 12v batteries.

When the track gets dry-dusty like that, try T-2000's or Panther Switches. If there isn't a fully developed groove, however, it's a safer bet to stay with step pins.
Yeah, it grooved really well and was turning a nice blue.. plus it was kicking up dust too... esp at the end of the heats.. and the late mains (plus is was well over 90 deg).
Thanks Aaron, I need to look into those Panther Tires =-)

Pete

[/B]

[PJCruz]

Thanks and Happy Father's Day to everyone else too. =) Thanks for the tip.. that's what I'll try next to get that picco tuned up. I now have TONS of Trinity 20% and got rid of my remaining BlueThunder.. so no excuses now. =)

LOh yeah, I have a OFNA Starter Box (the maaroon colored one with power panel, and 12v gel cel and two 550 motors).

Thanks
Pete
Originally posted by diesel757
HAPPY FATHER'S DAY TO ALL!
(new dad, if you can't tell)

PJ try running losi red comp step pins, that what I've been running on our track(blue groove) with excellent results. I also run the stock losi front tires. I tried the prolines up front but the losi's suited me better. I just switched to sidewinder 25% fuel and my temps are still about the same as with the trinity. I run my low end quite fat and my top end a little lean. the track I run at is fairly technical with only one long straight(well not that long). my engine temps seemed to decrease running like this. the down side is that the engine will load up much faster and not idle as long sitting still. blurping the throttle takes care of that. well congrates on the 3rd place finish. oh yeah, what starter box are you using? had trouble with mine at first too.

[losifreak2004]

PJ - No problem!

Thanks to all you other guys for ideas that didn't pop into my head LOL.

Aaron Waldron
Panther Tire Team Driver

[JoeyShreve]

I know you all have heard this a hundred times, so I will try to keep it short...(and yes I have read the archives and done my research)

I am looking to purchase a new nitro truck, Looking at either an XXX-nt or a monster truck (yet to be determined). I have been flying R/C airplanes and Heli's for years, and I use to own a TA RC10T2 as well as a nitro buggy.

I am thinking of getting back into nitro trucks, but have yet to decide on a monster truck or a stadium...(No, there is no where near me that I can race either - not that much in WV, at least not near me)

I basically want something fun to play around with, when it is too windy to fly or when I go traveling (easier to take small truck, then big plane - not to mention much easier to find a place to drive then fly)

I like the idea of getting a RTR, but I hate the AM radio's that they all come with. I also have never been a fan of pull cords.
(would like thoughts on the pull cord item) as well as the AM stuff. Is the XXX-NT a 27mhz or 75mhz AM? If it is 75mhz, I may concider it as an RTR. I can't stand anything on radio shack channels.

So to make a long story longer, if you had the spare cash to purchase something for fun (yes I know I just opened a can of worms) would you get a XXX-NT or a monster truck? I would like something other than "XXX-NT because it rules" or something to that effect. And yes I know the Nitro Mag just did a shootout and the XXX-NT came in first....but that still doesn't help as far as just to have fun and take places.

Thanks in advance for your help,

Joey

[russp]

a few questions for all you experts...

I have the sport xxxnt. I love it! It seems I have bent one of my stock outdrives...causing a lot of vibration and wobble when I pick my truck in the air and give it some gas. I'm sure it has some affect on its performance...but I'm not skilled enough (yet) to tell.

How much better are the cvd's? Which one do you recommend...the aluminum or the shiny? I would imagine lighter is better...but has anyone bent the aluminum cvd's?

Also, on MIP's site, I do not see cvd's for the XXXNT...only for XXT or XNT. Am I correct to assume these the ones I would need?

Grateful for your help,

russp

[ryanbakewell52]

Is there any differences in the proformance depending on what type of carb. you have. E.G. slide valve, or rotary

Ryan

[tarvymoto]

MIP CVD'd for XXXT/XXXNT are MIP #1201 for the shiny. I would not recomend aluminum for gas trucks.

[Nutter]

Joey: While the XXX-NT is good for bashing, I'd honestly go for a Tamiya Terra Crusher if that's all I'd be doing with it - it can tackle a lot more different types of terrain. I love my XXX-NT, but I'm a racer, not a basher (well, when I can get to the tracks "near" me I'll be back into racing.. moving internationally has that downside :p).

russp: CVD's aren't really a hop-up you should be looking at for a XXX-NT - they're only good for very smooth surfaces (which is not what most off-road surfaces are), you'll only see a decrease in performance with them on your XXX-NT.

ryan: You should use rotary carbs for off-road use, slide carbs are too hard to control on slick surfaces (too snappy a response, makes the tires break loose very easily).


-Nutter

[DR.GT]

Well I guess I'll dispute the CVD "Only for Smooth Track Theory"! I've been using them since 92 on about 95% of my vehicles over this time period, electric and gas. The other 5% is because the originals haven't needed to be replaced.
I race on rough track that would make the pro's wince if they had to drive on them as they are so babied with the off road pavement blue groove tracks. I don't really care who agrees with this but I've got 10 years experience with em in the rough and they work great!

CVD's offer more forward traction and regular universals usually a bit more side bite but that can be changed easily with running the wrong tires on a track.



:D

[Nutter]

Don't worry - I agree with you 110% about rough tracks - blue groove is just so wrong for an off-road track! The tracks I'm used to in Australia are so rough that going down the straight can launch your truck into cartwheels (very painful to see, but also so fun.. hehe). :p Now that is off-road racing! :D

If I had my way, every blue groove track would be bulldozed & the remains used for the new track (sure it's overkill, but the drivers have to make up for their prior sins of having a blue groove track). ;)

But back on the topic.. no pro's use CVD's (that I know of) for a reason (or so the little guy in the red suit on my shoulder tells me..). :)


-Nutter

[NovakXXXNT]

Hey everyone, try out this Fourm, http://pub7.ezboard.com/bstadiumracers we are just getting started but need more members, please check it out post a little "hello" in the Lobby. Here is a pic of My XXX-NT :)

http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL83/535002/796709/9492238.jpg

http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL83/535002/796709/9492236.jpg


You can check out more pics at www.PictureTrail.com then in the search box type NovakTMaxx

[2canSAM21]

I have the XXXnt Sport RTR and have a few questions. I am coming from the other side (rc10gt) and there are a few areas of the truck I am not fimiliar with


Shocks - How can you tell if you have built the Shocks right? I built them according to the manual and can push the shaft all the way in then it pushes itself out just a little on its own. No with the 10gt I knew this was right and meant the shock were built right but I am not sure about the Losi

Diff - I keep stripping the little locknut that holds the diff together. I tighten a little, work a little, tighten some more, and repeat until 2 things happen. One, when I hold the Passengers side wheel and spur and turn I make sure that the slipper is slipping first. Two that with the truck on the stand if I turn one of the back wheels the other back wheel turns in the oppisite direction. Now I am not stripping the nut during assembly but after a while running seems to strip. I have been through 4 locknuts in the past 3 1/2 weeks.



Thanks in advance for all the help

[rcdestroyer]

do you have to take the whole front end off or is there an easier way so get to the steering servo?

[russp]

Much respect Nutter, I have learned a lot over the past monts reading your posts...but can you explain how CVD's would decrease performace on the NT? and more specifically how the roughness of the track would determine whether to use the standard drives vs. CVD's

thanks
russp

[2canSAM21]

rcdestroyer - the only way i have found to get to the servo is to remove the front end, but since it is only 6 screws I don't complain too much. Maybe someone else knows of a trick or two.

[rcdestroyer]

ok thanks, i was just wondering because i dont like taking out little allens because im worried about dtripping them

[andy51289]

2cansam21- The Losi shocks are supposed to rebound a little when you compess them without the spring. About the Diff Nut, you really need an Hummad Ghuman (sp?) Steel Diff nut. Here's a link on tower hobbies where you can buy them: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXL637&P=7
There is a pack of two on ebay right now at a great price. Here's the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1742329148

Here's a pic of the diff nut for all you lazy bums that dont feel like clicking the link: http://www.gpmd.com/images/hgic2060.JPG

Once you buy one you'll never strip one again!!! I highly reccomend them for everyone!

[racerman333]

i have seen bits and peices on this thread about how to build the nt diff right. And now when i actually need to do it i cant find the right page. Could someone explain to me clearly how to build it both ways. THe diff spring way and the normal updated way. Thanks. What is the best grease to use????

also i saw some of these diff kits on ebay. What do you think? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1741886827

[BlackwoodKnives]

Hi Guys,

Great forum!!

I'm in the process of building an Adam Drake edition with my son. We purchased the kit and the radio but haven't yet decided on an engine. We are both new to Nitro and decided on the Drake edition for it's TOUGH parts and our learning curve behind the wheel!!
I would appreciate any recomendations as far as engines. Our goal is to first hone our driving skills THEN possibly race. I've been told that a pull start motor in this truck would be a sin, we already have a starter box given to us by a friend!!
Lastly, we've been offered a rear exhaust .12 motor at a good price, from what I've been told it may be a bit much for learning What is involved with adapting the exhaust?? Can we use the Drake exhaust??

Thanks


Neil

[Snobot1]

Hey guys- I've had my Drake for about a month, and its been running about 2 weeks. This truck is sweet. I'm new to RC, and even I can tell that this truck is special. Anyways, what are the specs (size) on the stock wheels that came with the kit?? I can't find the numbers anywhere. I want to get some Losi street tires, and I want a sweet set of rims to go with them. Any rim suggestions??

Thanks guys.

[rcdestroyer]

i think most truck tires are 2.2 in.


i have been having problems keeping the flywheel nut tight. i have locktighted it, taken the backplate off and tightened it and i dont know what else to do

[Snobot1]

rcdestroyer-

someone on this board asked if he could put gt tires on his xxxnt, and someone else told him it was a bad idea because it throws off the geometry of the truck. so if thats true, then i would like to know the exact dimensions of the stock xxxnt rims so i can keep everything the same..

thanks

[2canSAM21]

Snobot1 - It was I that asked about the 10gt Wheels, and while the Rims will not work, all 2.2" Truck Tires work on all rims. What my problem was it the 10gt rims would fit but the offset was not the same so the truck essentially became wider by about 2 inches front & rear. I just picked up a bunch of Losi rims and moved my tires over to them.

[fly boygt]

2cansam21 i was goin to ask the same question, how did you get all the rubber off ?, cause i am struggling tryting to do it, maybe you have an easier method, let me know thanks:)

[sean68]

i just bought a xxxnt sport. i can get it started but it keeps blowing lots of fuel into the pipe when i remove my finger after trying to prime it. the only way i can get it started is if i open the throttle almost all the way! HELP!!! thanks all!!

[andy51289]

sean68- try leaning out the low end needle..;)

[Yamaha]

I just bought a XXX-Nt drake edition with a Picco P12 powerplant and airatronics M8 with high speed bb servos. Its awsome. Hopeing to get it built soon and get it going on my local track!

[FastEddy]

Originally posted by Yamaha
I just bought a XXX-Nt drake edition with a Picco P12 powerplant and airatronics M8 with high speed bb servos. Its awsome. Hopeing to get it built soon and get it going on my local track!

Just got the exact setup except I went with the OS CV-R .12
Working the bugs out now and will hit the track next week,

Awsome is the right word. I have been playing with a T-Maxx for about 8 months now and the XXX a lot more fun for me.

What part of CA?

[racerman333]

i have seen bits and peices on this thread about how to build the nt diff right. And now when i actually need to do it i cant find the right page. Could someone explain to me clearly how to build it both ways. THe diff spring way and the normal updated way. Thanks. What is the best grease to use????

also i saw some of these diff kits on ebay. What do you think? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...item=1741886827

[ryanbakewell52]

What do u guys think of the drake edition?

[2canSAM21]

fly boygt - I have tried 2 different methods.

One I soak the wheel in acetone (get it @ Home Depot) for a couple of days. Then the tires come right off the rims with no problem. The acetone disolves the glue. This does kill the foams though. Rims and Tires seem fine.

Two is to preheat the oven to 350 and place the wheels on a baking sheet and bake for about 20-30 minutes. This heats up the glue and makes it very brittle, When you pull the wheels from the oven (using gloves of course, VERY HOT) the tires come right off. This method saves the foams. You can then use a hobby knife to "pick" the glue off.


Both methods have thier good and bad points. With the acetone you lose the foams, the stuff itself is dangerous and it can be too slow for some, but it completely removes the glue. Actually turns it to a jelly like form and then you just take a rag and wipe it off.

Baking will stink up the house( My wife did not complain too much) and you still have to pick the glue off, but it does save the foams.

I use a combo of the two. I bake the wheels and then pull out the foams, then I soak the tires and rims in acetone for 1 day. This allows me to keep my foams, tires and rims and have a completely clean bead on the tire. Mount the tires on some LOSI rims and you're done.


Sean68 - This is how I prime the tank and I have never had it flood or waste fuel. Open the fuel tank lid. While holding the lid open pinch the Pressue line closed. Then let go of the Tank lid. When it falls it will prime the tank for. I used to hold my finger over the stinger and give a pull or two but this method works much better for me. You might want to give it a try.


racerman333 This is a post I found a while back about the diff, I do recall seeing a post with a different setup. I think it was half facing the diff gear and half facing the diff nut, not too sure on that though I will see what I can find. I run the XXXnt Sport and am not at a level to recommend parts yet. BTW the post I quote below was on page 26 or 27 of the thread, might want to start looking there.


diff question
Thanks for the tips winning edge designs and purplerides! The recommendation on the diff assembly was also confirmed by Adam Drake. He responded to an email I sent him and replied with this description:

diff nut-(((((((((((( -diff gear

I'm about halfway through building the XXX-NT. VERY nice kit and it's going together really well. I am installing a RB Concepts C12 (rotary carb, side exhaust) and just ordered a MIP 3048 header. Still deciding on what pipe to run. Any suggestions? Thinking of the RB X12.

Also, the track I will run on is hard packed/sometimes slippery. Any suggestions on clutch set-ups, gearing, tires, fly wheel weight, etc. that may help with this overpowered beast?

Thanks again for the tips!
thanks to 2pt5MERCSonN2O


The above was in response to this post
2pt5MERCSonN2O,I always install the bevel washers all 12 facing outward,concave away from the nut carrier. Remember,seat the parts by working them while tightening the diff adjustment bolt. After getting it where you can barely turn the gear using two small screwdrivers to hold the outdrives,your in the ballpark. Assemble the rest of the truck and trans,then adjust the slipper nut until bottomed lightly. Try and spin the left rear tire,while holding the right rear and spur with a finger(carefull).It should be very tuff to do. If it is back off the slipper adjustment approx 5 turns and run the truck. After about one or two minutes of mid throttle running and making some tight turns,recheck that the slipper slips first. In fact I check every run that the slipper slips first at bigger races and for the mains.

The only other tips I would recommend is bevel the opening for the starter box wheel,where it contacts the flywheel . This will make life on your starter wheels rubber donut alot better! Use a small amount of assembly grease opn the tranny case at the joint area. This will help keep it free from dust during sandy or loose dirt racin'. And Lastly,if your running a rear exhaust engine check out the "Triton" body for the XXX-NT!...............hope this helps,Jim
thanks to winning edge designs

[Bobbyorr40]

HI I'm a first time buyer and i have a few questions to ask which car would be better the rc10gt rtr or the team losi triple-x-nt rtr. I've been told by many people that it's a great truck but is it the best for a beginner?:

[Snobot1]

2cansam-

thanks for the info about all tires fitting all rims. so can i only buy losi rims, or are there any other companies that make rims the same size as the losi's?


ryanbakewell-

i just started in RC and i got the drake. i love it. i ran it with a bunch of guys with gts and they were pretty impressed. they all wanted a turn running it. judging from thier impressions, the drake handles a lot better than their gt's.

[2canSAM21]

Snobot1 NP as for other rims I am not too sure. I know proline made some for the "XX" series but I do not know about the "XXX".

ryanbakewell52 - I do not have the Drake kit but the RTR sport and got the same kind of reception at the local track that Snobot1 did. Most of the guys there could not get over how well the truck drove or that it was a RTR. They all were impressed with it. Losi makes a heck of a product and the Drake is an awesome kit. I'll be picking it up after I get more fimilar with Nitro and passing the sport on to the wife. The drake has all the hops ups plus some for a song of a price.

[purplerides]

hey i'm back , moving sucks...LOL man it's a lot of work getting things the way you like them.

blackwood - you made a great choice of trucks , the drake truck comes with a exhaust header for side(standard exhaust motors) so to put a rear exhaust on you'd have to buy a rear exhaust header trinity makes one for trucks part#RC8125 , i don't like to tell people what to spend there hard earned money on , you should choose a motor with a barrel carb. , there are many good motors out there , the O.S.'s are easier to tune and aren't as finicky to atmospheric changes and are as fast as anything made. Pullstarts do tend to cause some problems on occasion , they are a source of possible air leaks the main problem that most people have is the oneway bearing slips and doesn't grab when tying to start , they claim they rob some horse power and they do raise the (cg) slightly , but you'd have to be a real good driver to notice the difference between a pullstart and non-pullstart.

as far as honeing your driver skills before you go racing , it's good to get the truck running and drive some before going to a track , but don't put it off for long , because no matter how much you practice driving around when you get on a track you going to be lost it's a total different thing so your going to be relearning all over again , i say get out to the track and go for it , plus at most tracks there's a wealth of knowledge that help a beginner out before he learns the hard way through trail and error.

just let the race director know your new to it all , so he don't put you in a heat where your going to get run over in by much faster people , they'll set you up in a beginner heat.

[purplerides]

snobot - proline used to make rims for the losi XXXNT but no longer do , i liked them better then the losi rims , because they had more support ribs inside and were truer , i've had some losi ones that had a wobble in them brand new.


sike - vineland should be closer then 2 hours from ya , i live in Shamong , kinda between both tracks , i race at Vineland all the time , Vineland is slightly larger then E-town , but the track layout in vineland is much faster then at E-town were the vehicle speeds are much slower , vineland also has a much better gas turnout if racing against a larger group interest you. both are good tracks , i use the same set-up and tires at both tracks , rear holeshot tires are the hot ticket with either trinity bomb1 or bomb 2 firm foams.

tarvymoto - when you coming back down?

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

snobot1 - those pro-line rims for losi trucks all fit...rpm makes sum good rims

http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

i think pro-lines xxx t is da one dat used to be for da xxx nt...dey'll fit

http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[purplerides]

proline stopped making rims for losi sales , they say sales were low due to the losi rim looking the same in appearence. you may still find some in a hobby shop that didn't sell out yet , but most are gone by now , the warehouses that i know of that my lhs deals with are out , proline has even taken them off there web site sometime in Dec. or Jan. i think it was.

[banditwing]

Hi guys, I currently have a Traxxas Eletric Rustler Kit that i built and have been satisfied with it. I use it for bashing and a little bit of racing. It's handling is ok, but it holds up very well.

I want to get a nitro vehicle because of the faster speeds, and the not having to charge batteries part.
I am thinking of buying a XXX-NT RTR

I will race and want a vehicle that performs. I also want this vehicle to be able to stand up to some backyard jumping (About 7 feet of air once in a while) and bashing when i am not racing. I know that the XXX-NT RTR is a race truck, but I wonder how it holds up for moderate bashing and if it will hold up.

Another question: Is the XXX-NT durable? Can the parts that break frequently be upgraded with stronger ones?

Do you think the XXX-NT will fufill my needs?

I know that's more than one:rolleyes: sorry.

Thanks in advance for answering my questions.:)

[Sike]

purplerides, here's a pic I got from when we went there. too bad they don't have practice on some other day (only practice is an hour from race). It's actually an hour and 45 min. it's quite a drive though.

btw, is the trinity header the only one for the XXXNT if you use a rear exhuast engine?

[purplerides]

i race at both tracks , i race at vineland every week and at E-town only several times a year , vineland is a much better track with tougher competition , and track is much better maintained , when Ron builds sections of the track he takes a lot into consideration passing opertunities is one of them , hence the track has many areas where you can alter your line and set someone up for a clean pass , the only thing i don't like about E-town is the track is very 1 lined , even if your considerably faster the the guy in front of you if he's on the driving line , he's very hard to get around cleanly , they are both good tracks you'll have fun at either , race at both of them and decide for yourself , i know an hour and 45 minutes is far but we have some guys that come down from N.Y. almost every week which is farther , and i drive almost 3 hours when i what to go race 1/8th scale so i know how driving that far can suck. i know that the practice deal sucks for those who want to , but he works on the track all week , and he don't want guys out there messing it up and he don't want guys that have time to pratice all week have unfair advantage over those who don't , i wish he did have practice during the week , i work rotating shiftwork and have a lot of time during the week. but that's the way he runs it , the track's has been there since 1982 , it held the first ever R.O.A.R. national in 1984 , so the track is successful he must be doing something right.

[purplerides]

no there are other header's out there that will work , but the trinity one is the only one that i know of that was designed for trucks , most of the other ones are adapted from touring cars and come out wider and interfear with some bodies.

[purplerides]

bandit - the XXXNT is very durable and is ok for bashing , but as with any vehicle it has it's limits there not unbreakable , i seen some guys abuse there trucks terribly on the track , if you just plain run into things at full speed breakage may occur , as far as jumping goes, they jump great and will handle pretty much any jump , when you land properly , it's when you don't land properly that it could break. especially if you land straight down on the battery pack but your not supposed to land that way.

[diesel757]

puplerides; can you give me the part number for the trinity header. I cut a notch out of mine and bent it down then welded it, but i would like a nice clean looking header in stead of the hack job I have.(accually it works well, just looks like crap)thanks rob

[purplerides]

Diesel - the trinity part #RC8125

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

purple - oh...thats y i couldnt find da rims on da pro-line site...yea my hobby store still has lots of dem

http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[ryanbakewell52]

Im after a drake edition but cant find anywhere that shipps to england. Does any no of anywhere other than horrizon hobby?

[tarvymoto]

Ryan , try www.stormerhobbies.com I'm pretty sure they ship internationaly. You can also try www.sheldonshobbies.com but in my experience Stormer has better service.

[tarvymoto]

Purplerides......I'm coming over sooon. maybe next weekend. Give me an email on what setup your running there travymoto@aol.com

[diesel757]

purple rides thanks for the parts number:D

[ryanbakewell52]

Whats a good starter box to use for the xxx-nt with a o.s. cv-r .12?

[ryanbakewell52]

could you guys tell me weather this engine fits in a xxx-nt

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXRT70&P=7

Its a picco buti need to know if it is the right one to get.

Thanks alot

Ryan

[racer13]

Yes. it would work just fine, since it's normal shaft. u would just have to get a different exaust since its the Picco round port.

[racer13]

you could get this one. it has the normal exaust port... the motor in the picture is the wrong one. so dont worry.


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXRT72&P=7

[ryanbakewell52]

Has any one ever ordered a xxx-nt off stromer hobbies from england. If so how much is shipping. Is any of u guys know anywhere cheaper that ship to england please let me know

Thanks

[ryanbakewell52]

Has anyone else got a picco .12 pull start out there?

[banditwing]

Thanks for the Info! Glad to hear that it can take some abuse.

[fly boygt]

hey all, i was looking at buying the drake kit, and was wondering what are some things i should cahnge?, or any recommmedations when building the kit. thanks:)

[diesel757]

banditwing, I think the xxxn-t is a great race truck, but for bashing it may not hold as well as you would like. If you looking to build a track to race on then i would would recommend it. If your looking for a truck that will take the punishment of wooden/backyard type ramps, then i would not strongly recommend it. It is still tough truck, but I know it can't stand up to the punishment my T-Maxx has been through. This truck does what it was designed to do very well, win races. As far bashing goes maybe someone else can give you there opinion from a bashers point of view. jm2c...rob;)

[diesel757]

flyboygt, I would recommend that you use captured ball ends on the rear tie rods. I would also look at getting a 4/40 tap, instead of the supplied tapping screw, to tap all the holes in those graphite peices. this my friend make the kit all that much easier to build. follow the directions closely on the diff break in proceedure....rob:)

[rc10tc3drivr]

do u guys use any different screws than the stock losi screws cause it seems like mine git stripped on the heads

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

rc10tc3drivr - da stock screws should work fine...but if u want u can buy a set to titanium screws...there is a set for the xxx-nt on hexcrews.com

http://www.plauder-smilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[Nutter]

Welcome back purplerides! I'd been wondering where you'd dissapeared to. :)

fly boygt: There isn't much to change on the DE kit as it's a top of the line kit.. as has been mentioned, captured rod ends are a good thing, also the Trinity Team Kinwald aluminium front/rear pivot blocks are good as they increase the durability significantly (I'd like to see you break one of those! :p). I also run Losi titanium ball studs on the front bulkhead & rear shock tower (well, I run them everywhere, but that's only because I love their hex heads, and hate the stock ball studs).

On my last trip to Walmart I found they had a really great set of 3 craft boxes... but the best thing is that 1 of the boxes is round with about 6 (or 8?) compartments - it's perfect for storing shock pistons, I just used a sharpie to write the piston # on the lid of each compartment (each has its own lid) - Now I don't have to worry about remembering the colour codes! :p One of the other craft boxes was also perfect for storing all my springs in, and I also wrote the spring rates on each compartment with a sharpie. Talk about organised.. I'd been looking for something to keep them all in. :p
It also gave me a chance to sort through all my pistons & springs - I have more #56 pistons than I have shocks on all 3 of my trucks, lol! :D And same with some of the springs, hehe (hey, I can't help it when the LHS has sales......).


-Nutter