Team Losi XXXNT forum 4.0

[KELSON]

anybody interested in selling cheap xxx-nt rolling chassis?
can a engine with sg shaft be cut to fit xxx-nt?
email at: Mmaria492@aol.com

[KevanB]

will a .12 cv have enough power for racing? I cant afford a .12 cvr, but i can afford cv, will it be ok? Or should i just stick with a .12 cvr non-pull start and a starter box?

[Tstalion79]

Well you should try to get a non-pull start engine because it is easier in the long run. Get the dynamite .12 It rips. Its faster than the cv

[Shady]

a cv is a great race motor for tracks that aren't horsepower tracks, it is best if you get an O'donnell (sp) head for it

[Tstalion79]

the odonnel head just allows for it to cool better. just get a dynamite instead for half the price anyway.

[KevanB]

what is this dynamite engine you speak of?

[KevanB]

is it reliable, powerful, and a good engine? I havent had much luck with dynamite

[Shady]

the odonnell head does allow it to cool better makin it possibly to lean it out a little more to get more power, IMO its better than the dynimite

the dynimite is cheaper but it is not as relible and it doesn't have the power that a bone stock cv has, thats from personal use and from others that will agree with me

[KevanB]

ill just get the cvr non pull start, im getting a starter box for x-mas
its only 125 non ps!

[winning edge designs]

I agree, it sounds like your getting radio hits from vibrations in the truck at w.o.t. First a good FM radio will help avoid annoying glitching like you seem to be getting. Also check for linkage rubbing metal on metal, aluminum parts that may be loose, etc. Try a different channel, or you could get someone to let you try thier reciever or a spare, etc. Process of elimination is the only was sometimes. I have also seen a lean carb cause the "miss", but that shouldn't cause the thottle to stick on. If the problem only happens after it runs a few laps check for a too lean top needle setting though...............Good luck, Jim

[winning edge designs]

woah, a few posts over the weekend?! That reply was for dr dirt about 3 pages ago,haha.....Jim

[r/c junkie 287]

ok i just traded my team kit rtr rc10gt for the xxxnt sport with jrx2 radio and picco .15 it's nip is that a geat deal or what and abotu on average how fast will this go with that setup and is this a great truck as i think it is or am i just wrong cause i saw 1 with a picco .12 and it flew!

[Tstalion79]

You got a good deal. It should go about 30-35 mph. I had a picco .15

[r/c junkie 287]

is it possible to over gear a motor liek u can in a elec car?

[Tstalion79]

it wouldnt really damage the engine like it does an electric motor, but there is no benefit in doing so.

[morfracerX]

I was testiung my truck this weekend and was trying to fine tune the dff and sliper. I have the slipper 3 &3/4 turns out, i am going to reset the diff later tonight . What would be a good dif setting to start out with?

[Tstalion79]

You have to adjust the diff to your own track.

[jdm3849]

I keep mine as tight as possible so there is no chance of it slipping and melting the balls and ring.

[Tstalion79]

not to offend anybody, but that is not very smart. You should adjust your diff so the outside wheel always breaks loose in turns, especially off power.

[jdm3849]

Even the manual says that you should tighten the differential as much as possible. Any slippage in the diff. is not good. When you tighten the diff. all the way it isn't like it is on one axle and the wheels spin at the same speed at the same time.

[winning edge designs]

morf, I always set my diff the same. Tightened down until the screw bottoms lightly, then back off about 1/8th turn. Install it in the truck and tighten the slipper so you can check the feel of the diff slippage. It should be very difficult to slip and kind of bark when it does. It should make the spur dig into your fingers, then your in the ball park. The diff may not feel like a gear diff at this point, but it will "break in" and free up a little. At this point I re snug mine a touch, so it lasts a couple gallons of fuel. On high bite tracks, Set the slipper so it is difficult to slip, but doesn't force the diff to slip while testing on the bench. On lower traction tracks the slipper can run a little looser for added traction feel...Jim

[rc man37689]

how fast can the sport go in mph?

[banditwing]

around 37-38 mph

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by jdm3849
Even the manual says that you should tighten the differential as much as possible. Any slippage in the diff. is not good. When you tighten the diff. all the way it isn't like it is on one axle and the wheels spin at the same speed at the same time.

I do the same. Just tight enough so that it won't strip the diff nut. It still works fine, and I don't have trouble with having to readjust it inbetween heats which there isn't much time for. I won't run it loose because it will always strip garaunteed!:D

[BIGBADBOWTIE]

I keep my diff at tight as possible(with out stripping the nut)and still have the differential action.I am still on my original set of balls and gears. I just started my 4th gallon of fuel on this car. THis thing takes a beating and just wont quit!!

Ray

PS nothing else on the car is stock but the transmission :-).

[KevanB]

i need the part number for this part! it is the replacement head, that goes under the heat sink, over the head shim, in the MACH 15 ENGINE. i cant find my old pic, and i neeeeed this part for my truck to work! Please help!!

[KevanB]

btw it is the part which the glow plug threads INTO

[Racin Rev]

KevanB
Just take it down to Docktor's, I am sure that they can fix you up.

[KevanB]

yeah i went to there, they told me to call them and tell them the part number, which i cant find. Or to just bring the part in, ill do that, thanks for the help.

[winning edge designs]

Kevanb, your talking about the "head button". On better engines the head is two peices so the glow plug threads won't effect the whole head if they strip. I don't use that engine so I can't help you with those numbers, but someone on here must?.............Jim

[banditwing]

Here yah go KevanB

http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/description.asp?prod=LOSR6563&pc=LOSR6563

Im not sure of the exact part number, but it has to be along the LOSR6563 lines, because HH part numbers are slightly diffrent from the numbers in the back of the book. Such as ball studs: a-6000 in the book, but part number losa6000 at HH.

-Banditwing

[morfracerX]

Hey guys i have a motor problem, i went racing yesterday (well i went to the track).Anyway so the motor would rev up and idle ok but soon as the tires hit the ground where on the ground it would die out after a few second. this was a real pain cause the motor waited till i walked all the way to the track to die :D .

One other thing, the few times i was on the track my rear ends would slide and slide. I have 30 rearv 35 front and orange at all four.


Thanks

[winning edge designs]

Morf, the engine sounds like one of two things is happening. First is a possible clutch problem, if the tires hitting the ground shuts off the engine it may not be disengaging. The other possibility is your letting the engine load up at idle or the engine is too lean at idle. Both cause stalling after idling a few seconds. One will give a gurgling before stall if not kept from idling every second or two. The symptom of a lean condition would slowly idle higher and higher on it's own until stalling, usually.

For your traction troubles, as far as oil I like 35 rear and 30 front with 56 pistons(pink/redish) and I also run orange all around for springs. But one of the biggest things for rear traction is shock location and ride hieght. Try standing your rear shocks up one hole, I like outer hole or in one hole. If your already out that far, then raise the rear ride hieght. Some racers assume a lower ride hieght adds traction, but that isn't the case. A lower rear ride hieght will slow reaction and allow the tires to break loose since weight transfer will be less from a lower roll center. Similar to the shock angle effect. You can go overboard in either direction, so trial and error is best........Jim

[Tstalion79]

Wow, Jim you seem to know what you are talking about! are you good at driving too?

[ryanbakewell52]

Right i have been moaning quite often about my truck but now i think its time i got it sorted and se if its really as good as you people say it is. First ill just remid you what the problem is then ill try and remember what you all said to do.

Problems
biff bolt stripped
diff gear stripped
lost ball bearings
slipper set wrong

Solutions
According to you guys i should:

Tighten diffnut all the way without stripping it then back it off slightly. Right?

Then i should set the slipper so that it slips before the diff But where is that ?

I should also check the diff after every run


If anyone has got any setup suggestions i would be grateful for the engine or diff.

Im gonna get this dam thing going if it kills me (driving's another thing all togther!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[morfracerX]

GREAT!!!!!!!


It's raining cats and dogs out side (really it is i just say fluffly fly by my window) my track is under a few inches of water so i cant run tomorrow. i need a boat or hovercraft



Hey Ryan my manual say tighten the slipper all the way (wherever that is) then back out 2 1/2 times. I am going to try 3 1/4 next time I run cause I think its still to tight.

[Crashbot2001]

If you set the slipper at three turns out, then tighten the diff to where the slipper slips first, it should be tight enough.. then adjust the slipper to where you need it.

I run between 4.5 and 5 turns out most of the time. Just remember if you rebuild, you need to check every few minutes during the first tank.. That means setting the slipper to three turns again, make sure it's still slipping first(if not, tighten diff) then set it to running setting..

you should do this three or four times during the first tank.. After that, forget about it.. I might check once before each race day that the slipper is still slipping first, but that's it.

The first time I ran my Losi, I overtightend and stripped the nut. Then someone told me about setting the slipper at three and only tightening the diff unitl it doesn;t slip with the slipper set there.. No more diff problems in over three months.

[G-RIDE]

hey guys i was wondering if any one knows a pretty good xxx-nt web site because i cant seem to find one, :D :D :D

[Tstalion79]

ummm what do you mean by xxx-nt website

[winning edge designs]

Tstalion, like most RC racers, i'm likely not as good as I would like to think I am, LOL! I have won some state titles, point series races and a bunch(100's) of regular club races if that makes you a good driver. Seems like it's mostly about what competition is in a particular area or race though. Been racing for 16 years or so, that helps, plus i'm in the fullscale automotive field. I've biult race car chassis', engines and done frame up restorations,etc...in other words, i'm old and experienced, haha. I just try to help when I can and learn when I can.

G-ride, i'd try TeamLosi.com, they may also have some good links from there. There's also Tech Talk and the Orion website off the top of my head...........Jim

[KevanB]

heeeeeeeelp will this battery pack be a good one for the xxxnt and will it fit? Is dynamite a high quality manufacturer? Is this a good pack for the price, or should i get the trinity one?
link : http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/description.asp?prod=DYN1411&pc=DYN1411

[Scrad]

Yes that battery pack will fit. I personally love dynamite products.

[winning edge designs]

Kevan, I'm sure Dynamite stuff is as good as most others. Keep in mind they only assemble and shrink the batteries. Sanyo and Panasonic make the cells. I use Orion matched batteries and packs myself, they use Sanyo cells exclusively. The Trinity packs i've used in the past come with a very short lead wire, making an extension necassery. Not so with the Orion packs.................Jim

[KevanB]

cool, but im trying to order off of horizonhobby.com cuz im have to order a part off there to get my car running, so to minimize shipping costs :) . sowill i be better off with a dynamite or a orion?
Im going for bang for the buck!

[DustinAdams]

what are the best servos to use?

I was gonna get 2 hs-625mg servos, they have .13 speed and like 94oz of torq, would that be enuff to steer realy good?

[dkj-M3]

Airtronics 94357Z ERG-VR High Speed Servo Specs (http://www.airtronics.net/Servo_specs.htm)

[DustinAdams]

Ok here is what i made my mind up on so far

XXX-NT kit = 125$
MX3 Fm radio and receiver = 90$
HS-625mg hi speed servo = 40$ (steering)
Need throttle servo
Trinity P12 .12 = 130.00$
Trinity receiver pack 1100mah = 28$


or i was wondering if it would be cheaper to by the arr kit, and sell the engine

does the kit come with fuel hose, clutchbell and flywheel setup??

can someone point me into the direction of a nice cheap starter box and a nice pip

thanx, sorry about that other servo dk i think it is a lil to expinsive for me thanx for the suggestion tho

[morfracerX]

If you dont min ruuning a used truck, you could get a xxxnt off e-bay for around the cost of a new rtr truck but with far better parts and a way better motor.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by DustinAdams
what are the best servos to use?

I was gonna get 2 hs-625mg servos, they have .13 speed and like 94oz of torq, would that be enuff to steer realy good?

It would probably be better to get one hs-645 and one hs-625. The 45 for steering and the 25 for throttle and brake. I have a 45 in my steering and it works great especially considering it's only 1/3 the cost of an airtronics, jr, or futaba digital servo.

[KevanB]

do you REALLY need that much torque in a 10th stadium truck!??!?

[Tstalion79]

You should have probably 80+ oz for steering and 70+ oz for throttle.

[jdm3849]

Got Speed,

I saw in one of your posts that you have a hitec 645mg in your losi, I have a 645mg left over from when I had a stampede and was looking to put it in the losi for good steering. Right now I have a jr standard servo, but I was worried about my AA cells in my reciever box not lasting long enough? will I still get good life with alkalines and the high torque servo? Or should I just get some good rechargable AA NiMH's? I looked in the losi manual and it looked like I will need a new servo horn to put the hitec in place of the jr? How much will a new servo horn cost? One other reason I wan't the 645 in the truck is because I am going to be getting masher 2k's for better jumping capabilities. It will most likely look dumb but thats all I do with my truck is jump and hardcore bash :) I'm suprised how well it's held up being a racer, i've only broke 1 front a-arm in over a gallon.


Thanks, -Mike

( this was meant to be a PM to Got Speed but his message box is full)

[Herpetologist]

I just ordered MIP shiny cvd's for my xxxnt. I got them from Stormer. Although when I checked MIPs website for item #MIP1201, it doesn't say it is for the xxxnt. Will they still work? Stormer had them on their website as for the xxxnt. Thanks, Dustin

[DustinAdams]

hey what all does the kit need except electronics fuel and engine

does it need some fuel line? clutchbell? flywheel?
please help me

[Tstalion79]

You need:

.12 or .15 engine
Fuel
Radio, receiver, servos
Paint for body
Glue for tires (get the pro line medium)
Starter box if you dont get a pullstart engine

[winning edge designs]

Kevan, if your already ordering from Horizon I think they sell Orion also. If they don't the Dynamite will do fine i'm sure, no sense paying shipping twice.......Jim

[winning edge designs]

Herp, The cvd's are the same for the XXXT and XXX-NT...Jim

[jcnmt]

LOL:D

[banditwing]

Inspired by Thor Bob RC's custom dirt guards for his 1/8 rally project, I am thinking about making some of my own.

I will use some semi flexible material clear like plastic for the material, and I think it will be sufficient at keeping dirt out. But the problem is mounting them on the chassis. There is very limited room on the outside of the xnt chassis, plus I will need to drill holes in the chassis (no big deal). Im just debating if it is worth it, because there is not much room to mount stuff there. I might have to have the guard kind of loop around the radio box and the pull starter on the engine (wont be a prob when I get me a .12 cvr:D ). Im concerned that there will not be enough support for the guard.

-Im going to try and dry fit the parts, tell yah what happens, if you have any ideas please post.

jcnmt-Lol, I wish it was possible, HELLLLLOOOOOO 100+ hehe

[Tstalion79]

actually it would not add any top end at all really. It would just add torque, but the car would be terribel because it would weigh a ton, handle like junk, and have tons of non controllable power.

[winning edge designs]

I think it would be easier to mount up a .21 then two .12's for a total of .24? Everyone was hunting for traction today using a roar legal .12, but i guess for tractor pulls or testing diff settings it could be good,haha....have fun, thats what it's about!...Jim

[dkj-M3]

jdm3849- the servo horns & steering items come all together on a parts tree. $9 I think digital servo's are the ones that suc up power.

[busades]

how did u mount twin .12 holly **** do u ahve any other pics so i can get a closer look at it and has anyone ever tried a .21 i want to get a trinity picco .15 but i wanted to know if a .21 is possable or what is the most powerfull 12-18 small block

[Tstalion79]

dont get a .21 nor should you get a .18 or .15 Those engines may have good torque, but dont rev as high as a good .12 engine. Stick with a sirio .12 if you want gobs of power.

[banditwing]

Yeah, I think a .21 would be uncontrollable, and handle like crap. I hear the traxxas 2.5 is a sweet engine, I'm just waiting until they release a version with a standard crank. (If ever) Otherwise the.12 OS cvr is a good choice if you can not afford an itallian(sp?) mill.

[kvn xxx-nt]

Does anybody know of any good sites with information on setting up suppension. Stuff like changing camber, toe ride hight and shock positions? Also what would be a good set up for a tight indoor track with a slick hard clay surface?

[busades]

what is the most powerfull .12- .21 can i put in a xxx-nt (i will put a .21 if its a ok idea) what is the fastes i can get for it. Like people say go crazy wit a .21 or to go with a novarossi .12 and what is the best pipe for it

[Tstalion79]

First off, a 21 wont fit. Secondly, it will be too much power. Thirdly, get a sirio .12

[busades]

i know it wont fit i know i will have to make a custom chassi and a sirro doesent last long at all like 2 months then u need a new pisten sleave so wat is there to get a .21 or a .12 i herd a nova rossi is good

[banditwing]

I would say the TRX 2.5, that is if they ever begin to make a standard crank to fit the Losi. I don't think it's possible to fit a .21 in the xnt without modifying quite a bit I think.

Ah my custom dirt guards didn't do too well, It cracked in the middle when I tried to drill a hole in it. Im going to try to make another, and be more careful, but it looked cool.

[banditwing]

You'll also need to make a custom chassis brace to hold a larger fuel tank, your gonna use a lot of fuel with a .21, that is if your chassis works.:)

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by jdm3849
Got Speed,

I saw in one of your posts that you have a hitec 645mg in your losi, I have a 645mg left over from when I had a stampede and was looking to put it in the losi for good steering. Right now I have a jr standard servo, but I was worried about my AA cells in my reciever box not lasting long enough? will I still get good life with alkalines and the high torque servo? Or should I just get some good rechargable AA NiMH's? I looked in the losi manual and it looked like I will need a new servo horn to put the hitec in place of the jr? How much will a new servo horn cost? One other reason I wan't the 645 in the truck is because I am going to be getting masher 2k's for better jumping capabilities. It will most likely look dumb but thats all I do with my truck is jump and hardcore bash :) I'm suprised how well it's held up being a racer, i've only broke 1 front a-arm in over a gallon.


Thanks, -Mike

( this was meant to be a PM to Got Speed but his message box is full)

Sorry I didn't see your post sooner. Yes I do have one for my steering. Compared to a standard servo you don't get much less run time but you get a whole lot more performance. Mine is great. I am using a 4 cell futaba nicad pack. I hope to get a nice NiMih pack though.

I agree with you on the durability. Lol not a thing broken(except a diff gear, my fault, lol :rolleyes: ). So many people say don't get a losi because they are fragile. Racing offroad and havn't broken any parts, raced my GT(when I had it) on oval and a little offroad and broke an arm, tower, turnbuckles, ball ends, cups, and the shocks wore very fast. Oh well just my opinion. lol :)

kvn xxxn-t- http://www.gj.net/~geerhed/CarSetup.htm That is just one of several sites I have seen.

edit: spelling

[morfracerX]

Try this site for your rx packs. http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/

I got one from there abpu 6 months ago and the thing is still going strong (6v nimh for my dom/mp). i will be getting another one from there soon as the rx pack i got with my xnt is just crap and wont hold a charge past 3 runs. i just pluged the 6 volt igot from them up to test my servo (i lovre the smell of a new servo in the morning) anyway after 2 months without a charge it still has enough power for a full servo set up and test run. :D :D

[jdm3849]

Got Speed, I stripped a diff. nut too but I did'nt count that as breaking because it was completely my fault. Do I have to take off the whole upper deck to switch servo's?


Someone said not to get a .15-18 because they do not rev as high. They may not rev as high but they have more torque which will make it able to gear higher and they will go faster. RPM's don't even matter, the company only lables their boxes with the R's because they want people to be like wow, that has 39k RPM's!

[dkj-M3]

"Do I have to take off the whole upper deck to switch servo's?"

No just the screws holding it on the bottom of the chassi & the 2 at the front of the upper deck. pull up the upper deck & slide the servo out.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by jdm3849
Got Speed, I stripped a diff. nut too but I did'nt count that as breaking because it was completely my fault. Do I have to take off the whole upper deck to switch servo's?


Someone said not to get a .15-18 because they do not rev as high. They may not rev as high but they have more torque which will make it able to gear higher and they will go faster. RPM's don't even matter, the company only lables their boxes with the R's because they want people to be like wow, that has 39k RPM's!

Yes you do have to take the whole upper deck off. :( Unless it will safely flex enough to get the servo out. Im using graphite and need to take the whole thing off.

Personally I wouldn't get a .15 because that extra power can do more harm than good and many tracks won't allow a .15. If your looking for a new engine I would suggest something like: O.S. .12 CV-R or TR, Mugen MT-12, Orion Wasp, or something along those lines by RB or Collari, if your racing that is.

Well I finnally broke by havn't broke any parts yet record. I broke 3 ball studs tonght one right after a row. 1qual broke one after a nasty landing, relaced with extra ae(lol) ball stud, end of 2nd qual broke ball stud after landing a jump nearly perfectly, replaced with extra ae ball stud, Main broke ball stud for no reason running on a straight without a crash(go figure, ae, :p :rolleyes: ), really mad!
I know AE isn't bad and the first ball stud was a Losi anyway. Has anyone else had this problem? Should I go with Lunsford? Will RPM ball cups pop easier instead of ball studs snapping?

Thanks alot.

[Philly's Finest]

i'd like to modify the chassis brace to some how fit a larger capacity fuel tank. i won't even begin racing until the spring so i'm just bashing now. i'd get a new brace before the season starts back up.

i want to know if this is possible. if so what size/kind of tank do you think i could get in there? they only have maxx tanks at lhs so it's not like i can size different tanks up.

also would maxx tires fit losi rims? thinking of throwing some maxx tires on for jump and stuff.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Philly's Finest
i'd like to modify the chassis brace to some how fit a larger capacity fuel tank. i won't even begin racing until the spring so i'm just bashing now. i'd get a new brace before the season starts back up.

i want to know if this is possible. if so what size/kind of tank do you think i could get in there? they only have maxx tanks at lhs so it's not like i can size different tanks up.

also would maxx tires fit losi rims? thinking of throwing some maxx tires on for jump and stuff.

I seriously doubt you would be able to get a maxx tank to fit in there right. At least now without weaking the brace which in turn will weaken the the chassis.

Maxx rims have a hex style wheel. You may be able to put the maxx wheel hexs on your rear wheels but I don't know what you would do with the front unless you somehow cut up a rear axel to fit a front axel carrier.

[Got Speed]

You would also have to seriously change the gearing.

[Philly's Finest]

yeah i think it would be very difficult to get a maxx tank in. that's why i want to know if anyone knows of a different tank that might fit it but that is bigger than the losi tank.

hmm, maybe i ought to think about buying a used gt. the chassis is more open for a mod like this. plus i wouldn't be subjecting my xnt to such pain. and i can blow lots of cash on unecessary "blue" stuff.lol:D

[morfracerX]

Sonds like you've been bitten by the MT bug, well take a look at the monster pirate. it will cost around the same as a GT beat a t-maxx and wont snap a part for it's own mother.. here are a few on E-bay take a look.



1785830507

1786970150

1787808091


1785056037
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
GREAT FREAKING DEAL RIGHT HERE!!!

edit

well i tried to add links but the board killed that, anyway look them up on ebay.

[Got Speed]

Id just get a T-Maxx or a 1/8th scale buggy then. I don't bash my XXXN-T because I race it and don't want to put a ton of stress and wear it for when I do race, lol, whatever. :p

I bought a T-Maxx, converted it to .21, then sold it and got a GS Storm just to thrash they are both awesome but the T-Maxx is more for stuff like rock climbing and mud bogging where the 1/8th scale buggy can't be beat in durability and jumping.

[FrankT]

hello everyone,I just ordered the XXX-NT sport and was just wondering is this a good truck for just playing around in the yard or the park.I read nothing but good things about it,just curious of what real owners thought...
Thanks Frank

[Tstalion79]

Yeah its a great truck. Dont take it off big jumps though. It was designed to be run on a track mainly, not to be bashed.

Good luck with your new ride!

[FrankT]

so it will be ok ,for just messing around.I allready have a GS Storm thats why I wanted to try out a stadium truck .I heard they are fast and handle great.I was just worried that It would'nt be good for the ballfeild.the truck should be here in a coulple days.I guess I'm just trying to put my mind at ease that I ordered the right truck....
Thanks FRank

[winning edge designs]

Frank, you've got a great truck on your hands...or will soon,:)!

Get yourself a spare set of ballcups and have at it. The truck will take alot of abuse, but a hard crash may pop off or break a ball cup occasionally. In fact i've seen every brand and level of stadium truck break those things..........we need something more durable like 1/8th scale style ballcups?hmmmmmm....Jim

[banditwing]

I've put my XNT through things that my ruff and tuff top o' the line basher traxxas rustler could not survive:) I've jumped my XNT about 10-11 feet in the air and haven't broken much, you just need to land right. But Tstallion79 is right, don't go too crazy with them jumps, or the wear of the truck will be accelerated (just like any RC).

I would say pick up a new set of diff gears, and front arms. The xnt diff is pretty tricky to adjust without stripping, or at least for me. The front a-arms are mostly what will break if you have a head on collision, but if you don't hit stuff you should be fine.

-Banditwing

[dkj-M3]

http://www.remotecontrolhobby.com/img/prod/nativ/losi_xxxnt/losi_xxxnt_tp_r.jpg

Native racing (http://www.remotecontrolhobby.com/news.html)

[LosiGTX]

Nice. Where did u get that titanium deck and how much $$$$$$$$ ???

[Crashbot2001]

Make them out of CF and I will buy one.. No need for aluminum or ti there, just adding weight and it's high weight which will raise the Center of Gravity.. You should be able to make the exact same part out of 3mm Carbon Fiber, save weight, and it will be plenty strong...

[f155mph]

Just ordered a XXXNT for the bargain price of $135. What hop-up should I add to it?

Thanks

[dkj-M3]

trinity aluminium rear pivot block/titanium turnbuckles/GS storm steering servo captured ends for the rear inside camber links.

Did I forget anything guys? threaded shock bodies(not really a must have).

[jcrazyjj]

Hi

I am looking for a new nitro truck and i was wondering if u guys have any suggestions on what i could get on a budget of $300 plus or minus a few dollars. i need it to stand up to all kinds of abuse. thanx:D

[Shady]

go HERE (www.ultimatehobbies.com) losi nt on sale for GREAT price, then pick up a decent motor and stuff and your set

[jcrazyjj]

im looking for a RTR or similar such as an ATR so i dont have to buy accessories i want it to include a motor and radio system. ill by fuel bottle, glow starter and stuff :D

[winning edge designs]

jcrazy, TeamLosi has a RTR XXX-NT available $300 or about there.......Check at Superior Hobbies dot com. Or call them at 407.834.9299......Jim

LOSA0881
Product Name:
XXX-NT SPORT ARR W/ MACH.15
Price: $249.99

[banditwing]

Shady, Im so pissed that you showed that to me!!! I bought the rtr because it was the only thing I could afford. AHHH, I could have boughten that with a cvr for about the same price I payed my ARR!!! AHHHHHHH DAMN! I wanted stiffezel, Im not too happy with the way this rtr plastics been holding up!



On another note: Has anyone tried to make an alum shock tower for the xnt? I just made one out of some diamond plate alum, with a dremel, drill, and saw. Took me all of about an hour, and a few minor scratches on my hand. All in all it was very easy to make, How come I don't see many companies making it for losi? I mean my peice of alluminmum practically weighs the same as the plastic, more rigid, plus it's got a cool look to it.

[marvelousmatt]

Actually the aluminum weighs more than plastic and in a racing truck, you don't want that weight.

[Shady]

banditwing-lol, sorry man, i am gonna try to get a xxxs off of there if i can gget enough money in time, however i now need a new radio, my M8 kinda met our drivers stand a week ago

as far as AL peices, i don't run any, i tried native racing's battery box, gets to hot for my likings, the new center braces looks like (IMO) a big waste of $$$$$ for racers, to heavy and moves to many things around

[winning edge designs]

Banditwing, has the tower held up ok? I'm surprised it doesn't bend easily. Most aluminum towers, especially with any hieght past thier mounts usually bend at the shock mounting area. Plus they are heavier, not to mention the wieght is at the highest point in the truck.

I saw the Native Racing XXX-NT upper deck conversion prototype first hand at gas nats. It looks good, the company owner says they are still doing some final tweaking. It is supposed to make maintenance easier and will likely come both ways, aluminum or carbon/laminate material.....Jim

[lambert23]

Gonna start racing wanna stick a new servo in my xxx-nt rtr. I will be racing off road and on road anyone know a good one for under $100

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by lambert23
Gonna start racing wanna stick a new servo in my xxx-nt rtr. I will be racing off road and on road anyone know a good one for under $100

Im using a 645MG Hitec servo. Works great for the price. .18(I think) transit time and 123(I think) oz/in of torque. You can get them for about $45. For that price you could get a high speed servo for throttle too.

[AreCee]

Try a JR Z4750. At $85.00 it has 96oz or 98oz of torque and a transit time of .12 sec @ 6V.

[banditwing]

Well, Shady, you may now be my best friend. Since I do need some new tires, and I want a clear body to paint (I actually really like the stock xnt body) and I could always use some spare parts, I think I may pick up that kit.

I have not tried the alluminum shock tower yet in actuall use, but I have it mounted, it's very rigid, and still pretty rigid sideways too. I really don't see all the big fuss about wieght, The stock rtr shock tower wieghs .5 ounces (according to my letter scale) and my alum shock tower with the shock mounting screws on weighs .7 ounces. A big diff in .2 ounces of wieght. They weigh practically the same to me. The alluminum is about 1.8 mm thick. It's diamond plated so it looks hardcore. I really like the look and the work that I put into it. Maybe in a very close race or something the extra .2 ounces of wieght might affect your speed or handling just a tiny bit, but then again, that .2 ounces could be whether your tank is full or 5/6ths full, so In the jist of things, (specially me, i bash) I don't think it really makes a diffrence. (Although when I do race I will probly switch back to the stiffezel material in the new kit I am getting). I may sound like I am mad a bit, but really im not:), I am glad you pointed out the fact that it could bend like that.

I do see what you mean by wieght WED, escpecically if you had more than a few parts of alluminum.



Just by playing with it in my hand, I think that the shock tower will hold up well, but that is what playing is for.


-BTW THanks for the comments on my Shock tower!!!:)

[kvn xxx-nt]

I'm trying to set up my supension on my xxx-nt. It wants to nose dive after going off a jump. It runs smooth and stable the rest of the time. I'm using 35wt shock oil all around. Pink springs up front with a #55 piston. #2 upper shock mount and the middle on the bottom. In back red springs with #56 piston. #4 upper shock mount and the middle on the bottom.:mad:

[jdm3849]

Like Got Speed I am now also running the 645mg and it is strong. I think it is the best deal out there for the money and it is strong enough to turn Clod wheels. It has a .18 sec transit and 133oz. of torque, for that cheap you could also get a 615mg which is faster but does'nt have as much torque for the throttle.

[Racin Rev]

kvn xxx-nt,

I am guessing that you are a victom of pilot error. That is, you are letting off of the throttle or applying the brake, or have drag brake dialed in on your truck. This will cause the front end to nose down. Goose the throttle a little and it should bring the nose back up.

[hdcchrome]

What engine? Has anyone tried .15 (if so which one).

I am looking for a rear exhaust engine (what do you suggest?)

Anyone tried the OS TR?

http://www.dewa.com/animated/35.gif

[kvn xxx-nt]

I have the .15 cvr rotary carb in my ade xxx-nt. It has alot of power. To much sometimes for the local indoor track. Have a hard time keeping the front end down.:D

[Dingus]

Super cheap XXX-NT Drake Edition replacement parts or UPGRADES

Follow the link...

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=dmong2&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=25

[Got Speed]

Dingus- WOW those parts are cheap. Thanks for the link.

jdm3849- That was the other servo I was thinking of but I couldn't think of the name. Do you run it(the 615mg)? If so does it make a big difference from the standard servo?

kvn xxx-nt- Don't you have traction problems with a .15? Or do you have a blue-groove track?

I know I couldn't do well with that much power. I couldn't put the power down. I have problems with traction with my .12 CV-R as it is.

[kvn xxx-nt]

Local track is hard packed clay. Running holeshots and slipper about 5 1/2 turns. Running motor a little rich and easing into the throttle helps keep traction and font end on the ground.

[jdm3849]

Wow, someone actually asked me a question!!!! :)

No I don't have that 615 servo but I was choosing inbetween that and the 645 a while back so I knew the stats, I do know someone with on but it did'nt make a big enough difference to make up for the money.:)

[Shady]

Originally posted by banditwing
Well, Shady, you may now be my best friend. Since I do need some new tires, and I want a clear body to paint (I actually really like the stock xnt body) and I could always use some spare parts, I think I may pick up that kit.



LOL, from pissed to best friend, damn i'm good........:cool:

[kvn xxx-nt]

I'm running hitec 925 (107 oz and .08ms)throttle and 945 (153 oz and .12ms) steering. These are coreless and metal geared. About $90 each. These are kinda over kill, but I wanted something strong that I wouldn't end needing to upgrade latter.

[winning edge designs]

So Kvn, are you saying my futaba 9450 digital is overkill?...LOL. j/k.....Jim

[banditwing]

Hehe Shady, I wasn't Pissed at you, just at myself;). And BTW, I did order from Ultimate Hobbies over the phone. Got me the kit. Im so happy!! Thanks for that link!!! I can't believe they had it for $135. What I think I will do is save the kit until I can get an mx3 and trx 2.5, then build it into it, or at least until I get an mx3.


Now to think of a paint scheme....:D :D

Shady you rock!!

[Shady]

LOL its cool, as far as paint schemes, go for something wild and out of the ordinary, least thats what i plan on doing, gotta stand out somehow :D

[rcnitrofreak501]

I just got a xxx-nt like 2 weeks ago and already im thinkin about getting alummin shock towers and a-arms. I've been lookin around on sites and can't find any. Can you tell if they even make them and where?:D :confused:

[rcnitrofreak501]

I just got a xxx-nt like 2 weeks ago and already im thinkin about getting alummin shock towers and a-arms. I've been lookin around on sites and can't find any. Can you tell if they even make them and where?:D :confused:

[dkj-M3]

nope, nobody makes them, at least not yet.

[Dingus]

A lot of hits that would cause composite materials to break would also cause aluminum parts to bend.

That or the shock will transfer to the next part in the line and that part can sometimes cost a whole lot more. Think about it.

Keep extras in your toolbox.

[Got Speed]

I don't think alum. arms are made but I think shock towers are made. Im not sure though. Check out trinity's site at www.teamtrinity.com

Or talk to baditwing about how and of what he made his shock towers.

If it is the RTR version I would suggest getting some stiffzel or graphite parts. They are alot stronger. Alum isn't good for racing. Shock towers arn't really bad if they are lightweight but A-Arms I think would be very heavy.

I have big problem myself though. I can't stop breaking ball studs. I have used losi and ae ball studs they both break. I am not driving really badly not to say I am driving good, lol, but Im not crashing often. For example- Last week racing I broke 3 ball studs 1st heat broke one after the tripple(missed the third jump and plopped down but it was level), after second heat(crashed in a way where you could expect something to break), going straight on level ground and it broke for absolutly no reason.

Will ti. ball studs fix the problem? If not what will other than practice, because they arn't even breaking from bad driving for the most part. LOL and thanks for the help.:) :cool:

[Shady]

Check to make sure you are getting them all the way down when screwing them in if not they will snap right off, i use the long ones everywhere and havn't had problems with the studs unless i don't get it all the wayu in, if the are, then you got me on that one


Fail R/C Racing
BountyHunter Racing Engines

[Dingus]

Ball studs are a weak point on most of the Losi off-road cars. I have seen people break ti studs as well. I guess just keep extras and be sure to back then with a nut when you can.

I have a complete set of long ballstuds on auctions here

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=dmong2&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=25

No bids yet, you might get them for less than $2

Check my other auctions for other parts too.

I recently started racing my MFE and have not broken anything yet. It is still box stock, but I am careful about the big jumps and the walls. We have two tracks nearby and one is very bad about breaking parts. Jumps are just too big.

It is a good idea to keep spares and remember, you go faster on the ground than in the air!

[Shady]

Ball Suds weak?, i guess i drive to slow to notice that.....:D , i havn't seen anyone break a stud but like once or twice on a NT, i have done it a couple of times but that was due to not getting it screwed in all the way, and thats on a track with MONSTER jumps, however i do replace mine on a regular bases

Fail R/C Racing
BountyHunter Racing Engines

[hdcchrome]

http://**************/ws/*******************************1790216248

Stock up on parts like this and you will never be left in the DURT at the races.................NO, this is NOT my listing, just came across it for you.

:D

http://www.dewa.com/animated/new/1gear1.gif

[winning edge designs]

Most of the time when a ballstud breaks it was damaged and fatigued earlier, but holding on a while longer. Especially if it failed while "just driving level,and not hitting anything". Try adding a washer under the inner ballstuds, it helps spread the load. The gold washers are best, plus they are thick enough to give you some material to grab if they do break off.......I broke a couple a while back, but haven't since switching to Titanium Losi ballstuds(the mip ones still break). I think whatever makes the Losi truck handle so well, also loads, or leverages the heck out of the upper camber rods, causing ballstud failures. TeamLosi has new shorter shank ballstuds available too, like on the sedan and XXX4.................Jim

[Dingus]

A washer is a good idea, because when they break off they are in for good.

Just remember adding or taking away ballstud height will change the rollcenter of the truck slightly. On the MFE, this change yields a big impact on handling.

I think the reason they break often is because of the location, they stand vertical and the losi graphite is so stiff.

They are easily hit at the front of the truck. Associated has theirs behind the tower and mounted horizontal.

The material has little or no give so all the force is transmitted to the weakest part of the ballstud, the threads.

Seems to make for a fast truck. I am much faster with the MFE than the T3.

[dkj-M3]

where at on the truck are the studs breaking? I used to have a problem with the one behind the engine on the rear shock tower, but I replaced it with a long 4/40 screw & GS storm steering servo captured ends. No more problems for me.

[adlawoo]

Just ordered my Losi XXXNT Kit and will have it probably next week. Just want to ask you guys some advice on building the Kit, the DO's and Don't s, also items needed before I should build the Kit Please, Many Thanks in advance...:D

[winning edge designs]

I haven't broken a front ballstud ever. It's always the rear inners when I've snapped one or seen it happen.
The shorter ballstuds used in the rear won't effect the roll centers, the front will because it changes the hieght.

For biulding tips, the best thing I could say, other then what the manual does, is the fastest biulders usually spend alot of time re-doing things at the track. Nobody wins a race on the work bench. Take your time and follow the manual to the letter! Don't assume you can find a better way then the team of engineers, Designers and chassis tuners that TeamLosi has....Run the kit set-up at least a few tanks, then maybe you can find something a little better for your home track, without Gil jr's help,:).........Have fun first, winning races is second....Make sure the slipper slips before the diff....your set!....Jim

[AreCee]

I had the same problem of snapping a couple inner rear ball studs as well. I replaced them with captured ball links (DuBro)which is working well for now. One of the Losi drivers I know uses the Ti studs and said he hasn't snapped one yet but he did break the regular steel ones. Probably because the Ti will flex more than steel due to its higher modulus of elasticity so it doesn't break as the more rigid steel does.

You can save your shock tower by carefully using a drill press and a drill bit slightly smaller then a 4-40 bolt. When you engage the broken shaft the dril will turn it so that it threads itself out the other side. But be careful not to damage the shock towers threads.

[dkj-M3]

I did break the steel ones, then switch to the titanium, that didn't break but caused the ball cup to keep popping off. that's when I switch to the captured ends.

[winning edge designs]

I tried the du-Bro captured 4/40 ends as well. But those seemed to bend and twist easily, to extremes from soft plastic. Not to mention when I finally broke one it was a done race, without much chance of a quick repair like popping on a new camber link, since you have to do much more surgery to R&R.

I wish some company would simply make 1/10th scale specific gas truck captured ball ends, beefy enough to take some real punishment. Possibly even using lunsford super duty turnbuckle threads as well.

The new ProLine T maxx ball ends just may be the ticket,imo.....Jim

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by dkj-M3
where at on the truck are the studs breaking? I used to have a problem with the one behind the engine on the rear shock tower, but I replaced it with a long 4/40 screw & GS storm steering servo captured ends. No more problems for me.

Oh ok, great. I don't know why I didn't think of that. I mainly break the one on the rear tower behind the engine as well but sometimes on the other side and once on the knuckle. Never in the front though. :)

[AreCee]

Well so far those DuBros held up to a day's worth of racing, qualifying and practice. We'll see how long those puppies will last. ;)

[crackerjack]

I just got a XXX-nt. What's everyone recommend for a good engine?

Thanks

[winning edge designs]

Cjack, There are alot of good engines, but in my experience and that of Most others, the O.S. engines are the bomb!...or rather almost bomb proof. Easiest carbs to adjust and they hold there setting very well. The second choice would be a picco based engine like the Orion Wasp, they seem to be making a bit more power then the O.S., but the O.S. carbs still the best........A combination to try may be an O.S. carb on another brand of engine if all out Power is your main concern. That can get expensive though, so it all depends on how much of a power junkie you are...........:),Jim

[Tstalion79]

sirio engines are the fastest, hands down

[Got Speed]

I think I am going to try the captured ends for tommorow night. Has anyone had problems with the bolt or shock tower breaking once switching?

I like my O.S. alot. If I would have had the extra money I probably would have gone with the wasp or the mugen. But the O.S. is great the Mugen and Wasp won't win you a race though. The O.S. is just right with the power the others are slightly overpowered. The extra power will make 0 difference on anything but a very high grip track. Even then it won't make a whole lot of difference. I just like how well my CV-R holds tune.:)

My .02 cents

[dkj-M3]

try & get the Parma captured-ends or the traxxas ones. the du-bros are ok but they do bend. I have seen one strip out, but that was from a real nasty wreak, & that was the only time.

My Novarossi's have been good to me, no problems, as long as you know how to tune'em(or any engine for that matter).

[Shady]

For motors i gotta go with OS like everyone else said, easiest motor to tune and not an over powering motor

for ends i like the Parma ones, i keep them on the inside rear ones


Fail R/C Racing
Bountyhunter Racing Engines

[Got Speed]

Ive heard the Racer's Edge ball ends are great too.

Id like to get a high performance cooling head for my CV-R. Ive seen the hardcore and the oddonell. Ive heard great things about the hardcore but not alot about oddonell. The hardcore is $50 but I found a great deal of only $15 for the oddonell.

[banditwing]

On my Rustler, I have the traxxas captured ball ends. A little harder to do maintence on, but They haven't came off, they bent the turbuckle though (crapy thin traxxas steel).

Im not sure if they are big enough to work on losi turnbuclkes, but I bet the tmaxx ones would if not the rustler ones. (Or are they the same?

On a diffrent note:

Im going to attempt to jump my pool tommorw. 16 feet wide, but only a 30 ft wind up! In fact more like 25. So I made a downhill ramp out of plywood to start, and used a very flexy board. I'll see if I can make it. (BTW the cover is on;) ):p

[winning edge designs]

Gotspeed, jump on that Odonnel head! They are very good, especially for $15 bucks!

Banditwing, should be no problem, i've jumped my XXX-NT over 25 feet in the air with a 30 foot takeoff area!.......Have fun, good thing the cover is on..just in case!....:),Jim

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by banditwing
On my Rustler, I have the traxxas captured ball ends. A little harder to do maintence on, but They haven't came off, they bent the turbuckle though (crapy thin traxxas steel).

Im not sure if they are big enough to work on losi turnbuclkes, but I bet the tmaxx ones would if not the rustler ones. (Or are they the same?

On a diffrent note:

Im going to attempt to jump my pool tommorw. 16 feet wide, but only a 30 ft wind up! In fact more like 25. So I made a downhill ramp out of plywood to start, and used a very flexy board. I'll see if I can make it. (BTW the cover is on;) ):p

[cabbynate]

I use rocket city captured ball ends on the rear of my NT with super duty lunsfords. You can't get rocket city's but you can get them from www.nelsonhobby.com. They work great.
Go to linkage fittings and click on "Samples". You would need part # L601.

[Got Speed]

Ok, do you just put a normal steel bolt in or do you need something stronger. Thanks :)

LOL I just noticed I didn't put anything in my last post! :p
Banditwing- The t-maxx are alot bigger than the rustler turnbuckles.

If you can get them try and take some pics of your jump. :D

[cabbynate]

Got Speed,
I just used 4-40 cap head screws and some washers. If you order them, call Nelson and tell Him you need the hardware too.
Some of it really helps. ;)

[Racin Rev]

i heard that rocket city discontinued those.

[banditwing]

Well, I started the XXX-nt up today, but I didn't have enough fuel for the big jump after I got it retuned to the colder weather:(.

I've been thinking about just trying to fit an eletric motor in my xnt, and I think it's pretty possible. I've got the 32p pinions to make it work too. I will make an e-xnt, or in otherwords an alumium chassied nitro trannied xxx-t :p

Also my aluminum shock tower held up fine, i did a few jumps, but nothing harsh, I will see how it does once I take some bigger jumps.

-Banditwing

[Crashbot2001]

The Traxxas Captured ends work fine. I have Lundsford Ti turnbuckles with Traxxas captured ends on all the inside connections, Losi ball cups on the outside. No problems whatsoever. The inside connections are almost impossible for a marshal to put back on for you if they pop off, so cpatured ends can help

[cabbynate]

Racin Rev,
They did, Nelson took over the Rocket City line. Not many people know this.

I run them on the inside and the outside of the rear linkage on my NT. Super Dutys, Trinity rear block and the Nelson Ball links make your rear end "all most indestructable".

[dkj-M3]

thanx nate, i've been looking for those.

[rccarman5]

xxxnt and the xxxnt sport. are they the same exact car just one includes radio, engine, pipe, etc? thanks.

[winning edge designs]

rccarman5, the "sport" version comes with slightly softer plastic made overseas. It actually has proven more durable to 90% of the racers i've talked with. As far as set-ups and parts exchange they are exactly the sameother then pullstart,non-pullstart etc and otherwise........Jim

[banditwing]

Hey, I was just checking up on the XXX-4 forum (Might be my next losi...) and on about the 5-7 page of the forum there is this talk about how crappy the stiffizel is and how you should upgrade to graphite. Im just wondering (Since I only have a graphite rear shock tower, and stiffizel arms (that broke, but they broke in the middle, not on the hingepin area)) how durable is the stiffizel compared to graphite or the rtr material? Because I get the feeling from this forum that the stiffizel is more resillent than graphite, and graphite is brittle, but in the XXX-4 forum it's the exact opposite!!!

So whats up with the stiffezel? Could the XXX-4 stuff just be a bad batch?

-Thanks
-Banditwing (Sorry for posting so many ??s)

[rccarman5]

Originally posted by winning edge designs
rccarman5, the "sport" version comes with slightly softer plastic made overseas. It actually has proven more durable to 90% of the racers i've talked with. As far as set-ups and parts exchange they are exactly the sameother then pullstart,non-pullstart etc and otherwise........Jim


winning, how would i know if i have the sport or xxnt? is there any signs or color of springs. anythign in particular. if u have aim, may i talk to u. i have some pictures i would like to show u. thanks.

[winning edge designs]

banditwing, unfortuantly, each material is better in different kinds of crashes. But both will break in hard wrecks, or at least could. I think for colder weather the graphite will hold up beter, but forwarmer weather the stiffezel may be better. Basically, no matter what I run, I try not to test the theory out,heh. the XXX4 had some brittle arms in the kits. Most who swap them after breaking them dont break them nearly as easily.

rccarman5, All XXX-Nt's come with hard anodized shock bodies, threade on the drake and unthreaded on the other kits. The sport isn't hard anodized and a different color. If you hold an arm up to the other material you can tell the difference as well. If both are ckean the RTR material has a slightly shiney'r look upon closer inspection............Jim

[rccarman5]

winning, can u please im me at radiocontrolhead. i really want to talk to u. i'm about to make a deal witht his guy and i want to make sure i have the xxnt. i dont want the sport. thanks. my aim is radiocontrolhead@msn.com . i have pics i would like to show you if u can tell me which kit it is.

[BlueBlaster01]

:( Engine Problem, 2 day old XXX NT Sport

The pull starter won't budge! ON another fourm someone told me to remove the pull starter and see if that was the problem. The pullstarter moves freely when off the engine. But when its on the engine it wont move at all.
I really don't know what to do...I have 6 tanks through this thing. The problem isn't the pull starter, I removed it and it works when it's off the engine. Something is with the engine, I don't know how or what the heck happened. The engine stalled out, so I went to restart it (piston WAS moving freely, I know this because I went to replace the glow plug after it stalled out). After a few pulls the pull starter suddenly didn't want to budge. The crankshaft won't move at all when I have the back plate removed. The piston IS not TDC, its towards the middle of the stroke. I haven't "really" taken apart the engine. Do you think Losi will cover the engine under warranty; considering I have about 6 tanks through it. I've had the truck for less then TWO days! This really has me very pissed off, I followed the instructions to the letter! This shouldn't have happened!

Thanks

[Philly's Finest]

i don't think it's a major problem. i had the same thing happen to me during break in & i have the sport also. i thought i was screwed but i wasn't. these engines have a tendacy to flood the engine esspecailly during break in. your piston is probably locked or stuck if it is not at the very bottom.

try using a hair dryer on the engine for a minute or so. this will heat up the engine & allow the piston to move a little more freely. then pull the pullstart cord. it should free up and then you can try and get the piston to stop at the very bottom.

this is the advise i got here and it worked for me. don't worry though because if this works once your engine is broken in you won't have as much trouble with it.i'm willing to bet the hair dryer thing will work. good luck & keep us posted.

[BlueBlaster01]

The hair dryer thing worked. :) THANK YOU SO MUCH! This may sound corny, but you made my thanksgiving even better, knowing I don't need to spend $130 on a new engine. Man, IM SOOOOOO HAPPY! What a lifesaver! I would have felt SICK if I found out that this was the only problem and I went out and got a new engine!:D Thank you

[Got Speed]

cabbynate-thanks I will try it hopefully it fixes my problem just fine.

BTW: which is better the oddonell head or the hardcore. For an .12 CV-R. If the oddonell isn't as good I won't get it even with the killer price.

[Philly's Finest]

no prob!

i know how you felt. i REALLY did not want to have to replace or wait to have it fixed either. i you should have any problems starting it again then try the hair dryer trick again. but i think you'll be good after break-in is completely finished.

[cabbynate]

Dkj-M3,
No prob, those thing are heven sent for us XXX-NT racers!!!:)
I had to do some serious looking to find them.

Got Speed,
It will. They are the strongest captured ball end you can get.

[igozoom]

Can anyone tell me the stock shock oil weight for the Drake Ed ? My purple stuff is all gone ! lol

[winning edge designs]

gotspeed, The Odonnel stuff, heads, fuel and other things are all among the best in the business. Steve Odonnel has been in the nitro engine business A Long, Long time. He probably showed most if not all of the hardcore guys the business, or at least they are better off if he did. I just looked at an Odonnel head in Superior Hobbies last night after reading your post and thinking of it. They list for $45 and sell for $39 in the store....Where was this $15 deal at?...........;),Jim

[winning edge designs]

igozoom, Not sure what comes in the kit, but I know adam usually uses 35-40 in back and 30 wt in front..........Jim

[tarvymoto]

Igo , I think that it's 40wt.

I have a question too. Do any of you guys no the name of that web site that sells the aluminum screws and counter sunk washers? I got it off this board many moons ago but have since lost it.

Thanks , Travis

[igozoom]

You couldn't tell me that at the track yesterday ? hehehe

Sorry about the hack on crack driving. Appreciate you taking the time to slow down and race with me. Man, I got to stop driving too deep into the turns. Sooner or later I will learn my lesson with you sliding under me. It was the pressure ! lol

[cabbynate]

W.E.D

WWW.nitrohouse.com. You have to look under "Blow out specials"
in the uper right corner. I may get one just to have they are so cheap!!!!! :D

[igozoom]

Long time no chat.

Will the OD heads fit the OS TR ?

[cabbynate]

Igozoom,
I am not sure on that one? W.E.D may know.
I have been puting most of my time into getting my XXX-4 in order. We don't have a big out door track any more so I don't get much nitro around here. I did end up with a 3rd place spot in the Pro-Line summer points series. Int 1/10 gas truck. Vegas needs a big out door track bad!!! I think one is on the way.

[banditwing]

Thanks WED! Well, since the only parts I seem to break are the front arms and rear pivot block, next time I get them i will get some graphite for the front (when it's cold) and the alluminum pivot for the rear. Because what I had noticed in the early to middle fall (70-50 degrees) that the stiffizel was holding up to more hits than the rtr stuff, but then one day when it was getting a little colder (Like 45 degrees) I landed in a bush (dont ask) and it was a pretty soft landing and I didn't think anything would break, but it turned out that the stiffizel was broken right in half, like it was brittle, unlike how the rtr stuff breaks at the hinge pin area.

(Just to add what WED said: The shock bodies are the exact same as the reg kit, but you can see that there is RTR molded on practically every plastic part (not easy to miss) and the chassis is sandblasted. You can also take a look at the bearings, they are metal shielded, not teflon sealed.)

-Thanks WED

-Banditwing

[winning edge designs]

Cabbynate, and others. I noticed the exhaust coupler/extenders for 1/8th scale on the site link. But they are getting $36! Robin Nelson sells his for about $18!!! The blowout deals look pretty good, btw though. I just may get a spare head, they do break occasionally.


The TR does take the same head, as long as your not using the turbo plug head on the new Turbo TR engine???;).


Banditwing, you're right on with the shocks, they do look the same i've found after some research. They are however made overseas and are "colored" in hard anodizing color, but not using the same process.......tricky stuff. Everyone should stick with the threaded shocks to be sure they're getting hard anodizing, it makes a difference on how long the shock bodies last. And how much they "should" cost..........ttyl, Jim

[rccarman5]

so how much would it be to get :

graphite shock towers (F) (R)
grpahite arms(F) (R)
graphite front nose piece,
grpahite bulkhead
and threaded anodized shock bodies.

[winning edge designs]

graphite shock towers (F) (R) $9.95 ft $11.50 rear
grpahite arms(F) (R) $11.95 ft pr $13.00 rear pr
graphite front nose piece, $15.95
grpahite bulkhead comes with nose piece and bulkhead together
threaded anod shock bodies. $19.95 pr

I wouldn't worry about having an all graphite truck, just replace the parts as needed from wear or breakage. If money is an issue. I ran my truck for over a year with stock stiffezel, it works awesome, better on rought tracks sometimes.........Jim

[igozoom]

RC....about 120.00 give or take 10.00 . If you need the exact figure, I am sure I could go through all of my spare stuff for prices.

IMHO, your money might be better spent buying the Drake for about 300 even, and using your current truck chassis as a back up. If that isn't in your budget, you can always do it as cash allows.

Go for the shocks first. Biggest enhancer for convenience sake. I break graphite just as easy as NT plastic. Can't speak for the RTR plastic though. It has been said that plastic (stiffzel?) lasts just as long as graphite if you just refrain from crashing ! lol

Interestingly, I have been amazed the the new hard anodized chassis plate. I drive my truck extrememly hard, and the plate still doesn't have a mark on it. Guess this supports W.E.D.'s comments about the importance of hard anodizing.

Good luck and let the shopping and X Mas lists begin !

[rccarman5]

what is the cheapest starter box i can get for my xxxnt.

[winning edge designs]

rccarman5, i'd guess the cheapest is the Ofna box, or one of the many they offer. I've seen an Ofna box with battery in Superior hobbies for about $80? I use an Ofna box for my 1/8th, but a duratrax for truck, only because they had a very good deal on those at the time. The main thing for me was having the fullsize starter motor and NOT using 540 or 550 cans! IMO, those things are "Gar-badge". Other then that, any brand will work, but the difference will show up when trying to break in a new engine.........Jim

[rccarman5]

is it possible to hook it up to a car battery, a 12v automotive battery.

[rccarman5]

also what does a endpoint adjustment on a radio do. i just figured out teh epa's but not the endpoint

[rccarman5]

excuse me i meant the dual rate.

[winning edge designs]

rccarman5, The end point adjustment sets where you need the servo's throw to stop, so it doesn't strain, or break the servo. For example, left steering epa may end up at 97%, but right may end up at 105% to get them right at the end of the throw both ways. Same for throttle settings. Dual rate adjusts the end point of both sides equally after end point is set. So on a track where you have too much steering, you can remove dual rate, to say for example, 80%. This will make the servo throw shorter and take away sensitivety, since the radio will read the entire wheel movement input, but use it to only move the steering to 80% of the maximum..............A little confusing, but try it at the track and you'll see what i'm saying...Jim


Btw, end point is critical for throttle adjustments, since carb damage can result as well as servo.

Last, Exponential is different in that it gives you maximum throw of the servo arm still, but brings it in at a different rate then is input. Negative expo will make the servo come on slower initially, then ramp up fast toward the end of it's movement. This can be used for throttle or steering. I use negative Expo on my throttle on slippery tracks, but haven't found it any good on steering, but that's my opinion.

[Philly's Finest]

rccarman

you can get an ofna universal starter box w/ one motor for 70 at http://www.nitrohouse.com/starter_boxes1.htm #10246

[rccarman5]

great info, i have the hitec lynx fm, and it has epa adjustments and endpoint andjument. the dual rate as u have told me and what i have understood is to the left of teh trigger, u can set it with ur thumb. but, where the epa is, there is another screw that has a endpoint adjustment. what is that? i have two endpoint? this is right above the trims.

[rccarman5]

what is the cheapest method i can start up a non pull start for my xxxnt. a rotary wheel? how much are they and where can i get one.

[Philly's Finest]

well if you have a cordless drill you might want to look into HG's yank eliminator. basically it's a bit the hooks up to your drill and starts it up. i have never owned one but i've heard they work well. i think they go for $30.

you could also look into buying a pullstart kit. not sure how much it would be but it could be as much or more than the yank. i would just get a bump box. pull starts can be a real pain in the ass.

[rccarman5]

ya but u see, to put a pull start on, i wil need a whole new crank, plate, pull start housing, etc. that would wind up to a new engine. i can't use the yank, it's only if u removed ur pull start. but there is this hand help motor with a wheel ant u manually place it on teh flywheel and let it turn over. just i dontknow what it's called so i can look it up.

[Got Speed]

It's bump starter for a plane that is used. I am starting my non pull CV-R with one. It cost about $20 for the starter and $5 for the wheel that attaches to it. You will need a 12V 7+ amp battery. I am using a large 12V 24amp battery on mine works well but can be a pain to break in and do the first start of the day with since it is tighter and the tighter it is the more lined up it has to be. Check www.towerhobbies.com If they don't have the wheel check horizon hobby under dynamite's listing.

[rccarman5]

i need to know what it says on starter because the information u gave me doens't cut it. i would like to know what it says on ur starter please. thanks.

[kcobra]

So is Ultimate Hobbies the cheapest place for the standard XXX-NT kit right now ($135)? Someone mentioned getting the XXX-NT kit for $125. Any ideas where? Also, any cheap leads on the Adam Drake edition XXX-NT?

Any cheap sources for a cheap .12 reliable ~1hp engine right now? Since the XXX-NT is pretty cheap now, I figured I would start buying my new gear for the upcoming season.

[rccarman5]

if anyone knows where u buy a kit for 125 please post.

[winning edge designs]

I haven't seen the XXX-NT race kit(non-drake) for any less then $229, local LHS price is $249........Your looking for one less the $135?

Kcobra, you do realize you used the word "cheap" 5 times in two sentences right? haha, just messin around.

I would check on E bay, it's quickly runing into a wholesale market on there. I have an 1/8th scale engine worth about $140 that hasn't creeped over $78 yet and it's brand new....
....Guess people need to feel like they're stealing something to make it worth buying it? Maybe that's why i'm always broke, I see something I want, I buy it, LOL, could also explain why my garage is full of R/C and motorcycle junk,:)........Jim

[rccarman5]

wat about go-pedding.

[Shady]

Jim-click HERE (http://www.ultimatehobbies.com//l124.html) ,xxxnt's for 134.95 and xxxs for 124.95

[rccarman5]

ya tats what that guy said about ultimate.

[Trevor280z]

hey shady how good is that sight? im a little skeptical since theres really not alot of info like tower or hobby people..

[rccarman5]

thats why i would rather buy it form the stormer hobbites. secure sight and everything

[Got Speed]

You can click the picture to find more info. At least that is what it says. That is an awesome price. They are a realiable site from what I have heard but I would call them to find out.

rccarman5- Mine is the Tower Power Starter.

Hmmm, If my dad would let me Id buy that XXX-S after Christmas. LOL.:p

[rccarman5]

is that form tower hobbies adn u put what kind of wheel on it? dynamite?

[kcobra]

It looks like Ultimate Hobbies does not have a secure billing site and they don't tell you the shipping cost when you place your order online. I will be calling them Monday to place my order.

[winning edge designs]

Wow, checked it out, looks like an unbelieveable deal! I know for a fast the local hobby stores are paying over $197 for those kits...hhhmmmmmmm............:/....Jim

[rccarman5]

i have a question about my xtm .15 engien, they say teh low end factory setting is 5 1/2 turns out. to they mean full 360degree turns or 180degree turns. because if i do 5 1/2 full 360deggree turns, the low needle pushed out too far for it to even hit the other needle when it's closed.

thanks.

[Nitro Newbie]

will the os .12 tr work in the xxx-nt ? cuz i was told it was an on road engine and i prolly shouldnt use it and if it isnt what style shaft should i use? and what webiste has them for the cheapest

[rccarman5]

who has order from stormer, and how fast will they ship their stuff otu to u? thanks.

[winning edge designs]

rccarman5, I think they have a mis print, I don't run that engine, but most are 1 and 1/2 to 2 turns out on the low needle, or close.

Nitro Newbie, the TR will work, but i'd use the CV-R myself. If you go with a TR get the threaded crank with barrel carb if available. You can use a slide, but not and SG crank. However the slide carb will make the "Peaky" on-road engine even worse then if it had a barrel carb.

rccarman5, call Superior and ask them about the items you need. Tell them Jim Myers sent you and they will hook you up if possible. They have great prices and are very well stocked. The main benifit though is they all race, gas electric, sedan and off-road, even 1/8th scale cars like the Vteq, etc. They have a team of guys in Cleveland for the turkey race as a matter of fact and the owner is a National Champion!...Can those other mailorder places give advice from experience?............Jim

[rccarman5]

no i already ordered from teh internet. right now they are closed. but i was wondering how fast do they ship it. next business day or what? i ordered my xxxnt for 149 so i should be getting it soon .

o and winning, thats 5 1/2 for rotary, and 10 turns for slide.

[Got Speed]

rccarman5- Yes the dynamite wheel. The starter is from tower hobbies but I think hobbico makes it for them because it is identical.

[Nitro Newbie]

so the tr is an on road engine?

[purplerides]

Nitro Newbie - the O.S. TR is a great offroad motor it has a very smooth power band and lots of low end grunt just get the barrel carb. and threaded crank , i use it and have been using it all season , i have about 4 1/2 gallons of fuel through it and it's still tight and hard to turn over by hand , i know of at least 8 people that use it offroad , the slide carb. version does make a nice onroad motor.

[winning edge designs]

Nitro newbie, purplerides has hit the nail pretty well on the head.

I however prefer the CV-R to the TR after running both. In fact i'm now running the Orion wasp and the Orion team are running the side exhaust version rather then rear on that engine as well. Mostly a matter of preference rather then one being "Better" then the other. IMO, if your experience is limited and the TR cost more money, why not just run the one more commonly used off-road and less expensive? Either way we definalty have alot of choices that are all good nowadays, this Orion engine screams!.....Jim

[Racer123091]

I have a CV-R in my XN-T with the associated pipe and it is perfect for the medium size track i run on (125x60 i think) It is very smooth and easy to tune and runs very well at about 235, I am very glad i got an O.S.

[tarvymoto]

Originally posted by rccarman5
who has order from stormer, and how fast will they ship their stuff otu to u? thanks.

Stormer is the real deal. Ask for Even...he know's his shiz and they ship the same day if you get the order in before 3pm central.

I've also had good luck w/ Superior when I've used them.

[rccarman5]

u mean even on saturdays?

[tarvymoto]

No , sorry ... they only ship on weekdays.

[rccarman5]

so i guess they're shipping my xxxnt on monday. whoo who, and i should be getting it thursday friday. but i need a starter box:(

[Got Speed]

Nitro Newbie- Personally I like the slide carb version. That is what I am running. I don't know if you can get the slide version of the TR with a standard crank though. About the wasp I ahve heard very good things about it too. If my track had the Wasp when I got my CV-R I probably would have got it even though I would have to buy a rear exuast header as well. It would still only be $15 more. They are both great. Like I said personally I prefer the slide carb.

[kcobra]

I ordered a couple XXX-S kits and a couple XXX-NT kits from Ultimate Hobbies today. The customer service at Ultimate was pretty decent. The guy was friendly on the phone, although he couldn't tell me what the shipping would be. He guessed at $20 but said it wasn't determined until it was actually picked up by UPS. We will see. Hopefully they won't jack up the shipping to make up for their good prices.

You may be asking why 2 kits for each car. I've kinda decided that it is as cheap or cheaper to buy a second kit than to stock up on the parts you may break or replace (i.e. body, tires, etc). This is especially true if the LHS is not at the same place as the race track.

[banditwing]

So anybody get thier XNT off of Ultimate yet? I live on the east coast, and it's been a week and 4 days since I ordered over the phone. I'm getting a bit worried since the guy said it would take a week.:(

[AreCee]

Ultimate usually ships out after they get your credit card verification which may take a couple days and then it's six days by ground UPS to the East coast.

They are pretty reliable in shipping out the orders and expect to pay about $10 per a one car kit order.

[Racin Rev]

I've said it before and will say it again, I would reccomend the barrel carb over the slide for off road. My xxxnt is just too jumpy with the slide carb. I was mostly able to solve the problem with a combination of cooler plug and/or carb restrictor. the restrictor caused me to loose some punch and the cool plug caused me to loose power accross the board, which is ok for a newbe but when things start to heat up, and when the track is expanded next year, i will be wanting my power back. the barrel just gives more control.

[rccarman5]

i have a xtm .15 that i never put in. how are these engiens on the xxxnt? i hope it's good.

[KE2ric]

banditwing,

You might want to give Ultimate a call and see if they have shipped your order yet. They did not ship my order until I called them about it because they had some problem sort of problem processing it.


And to all the experienced XXX-NTers in the group here, do you guys have any set up advice to offer? I just got my kit from Ultimate and look forward to putting this bad boy on the track to whoop some GT butt. I guess I am going to start with the stock setup first, and then try the Drake setup listed on the Losi website. Any advice here regarding the XXX-NT is welcome because I am new to stadium trucks.

[tarvymoto]

KE2ric , try the Drake set up....then if you have any part of the handling that needs work just ask someone on the board.

[anothermbdusted]

anyone interested in a new xxxnt then goto stormerhobbies they have them for $149.99 on a christmas blow out

[Got Speed]

lol, we were just talking about it. I am very tempted to buy a second as backup truck. What body does it come with though?

[anothermbdusted]

i dont know i just saw it and thought i might pass the info along thats all try to save someone a buck thats all

[Locus]

Wanted to ask around the group to see what everyone uses. I'm currently looking at the OFNA #10247, Ready to Run Universal Starter Box. I want a box that I can use on all cars/truck sizes. Any input from the group would be great! Thanks!

[TomC]

This is the real deal, I got mine. The body is the original one, tires are red step pins and directional. I figure about $350 or more in spare parts for my race truck for $125 + shipping. Didnt really need it but I found it hard to pass up.

[Locus]

Tom where did you get the XXXNT for $125???
-
Originally posted by TomC
This is the real deal, I got mine. The body is the original one, tires are red step pins and directional. I figure about $350 or more in spare parts for my race truck for $125 + shipping. Didnt really need it but I found it hard to pass up.

[TomC]

Ultimatehobbies.com - I believe they may be $134.95 now.

[banditwing]

Just got my kit from ultimate! I looked inside, wow, the kit includes alot more things than the rtr, and all of the stuff looks of much better quality. I can't wait to build it. My only gripe was that the tires were dirty:p I guess they ran my xnt before they shipped it eh? Hehe JK.

I already own an xnt, and have taken it completly apart (except for turnbuckles maybe), but are there any things that I need to watch out for when building a kit from the regular stiffezel material? Im pretty sure I know what to do, since I've built a few other kits and own the rtr, i'm just wondering if there might be any precautions I might need to take with the stiffezel.

Thanks, can't wait to build this sucker from scratch, and only $135!!!

[KE2ric]

banditwing,

Be sure to pre-tap the holes that use the flat head screws which use the 1/16" allen wrench. The plastic is so hard that even with a good quality allen wrench you may strip the screw without tapping the threads beforehand.

BTW, I think the "dirt" on the tires is a mold releasing agent. :)

[rccarman5]

i have a xtm .15 that i never put in. how are these engiens on the xxxnt? i hope it's good.

[kcobra]

Where can you order suspension arm reamers (i.e. the things you use to ever-so-slightly increase the diameter of your hinge-pin hole when the hinge pin fits to snug and causes binding)?

With all my other kits, I have just put tight suspension arms on and let them loosen up with use. I figured this time I might try and do it correctly.

[Got Speed]

rccarman5- They are ok. Not legal for racing. Find out if your track allows them if you are going to be rcaing. They arn't real powerful or fast but they get the job done, lol. They are a reliable sport engine from what I have heard.

kcobra- I have always taken a drill bit of the same diameter and drilled the excess out. Works great and no slop if you are careful.

[ross]

What type of crankshaft does a XXXNT use?

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by ross
What type of crankshaft does a XXXNT use?

It uses a standard crank. You can usually use a short shaft but you have to put plenty of loctite on.

[BlueBlaster01]

This REALLY blows. I wish I would have known that the types of plastic were diffrent when I bought my truck. In the past two days I've broken two parts! It may be from the cold weather but I'm not sure.(20*F)

I broke my front left a-arm yesterday, it cracked off at the hinge pin. Leaving the "mounting" part on the hinge pin. Today, after a little roll over, the rear hub piece that holds the ball stud broke off! :( I replaced the front suspension a-arms with Graphite Ones. What should I replace my rear hub/carrier with? Stock Losi Kit Plastic or Trinity/Dynamite Aluminum Rear Hub/Carrier? Here are some pictures of the broken parts.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid41/pc601705e95a31b0dfadfaf16333dad72/fcf9908c.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid41/p9429765c6ea5d74517889275c36d2433/fcf9908a.jpg

[driller]

***********Common Guys just listentoyourselves***********

*So is Ultimate Hobbies the cheapest place for the standard XXX-NT kit right now ($135)? Someone mentioned getting the XXX-NT kit for $125. Any ideas where? Also, any cheap leads on the Adam Drake edition XXX-NT?


*if anyone knows where u buy a kit for 125 please post

*I haven't seen the XXX-NT race kit(non-drake) for any less then $229, local LHS price is $249........Your looking for one less the $135?

*Kcobra, you do realize you used the word "cheap" 5 times in two sentences right? haha, just messin around.


*Wow, checked it out, looks like an unbelievable deal! I know for a fast the local hobby stores are paying over $197 for those kits...hhhmmmmmmm............:/....Jim

*This is the real deal, I got mine. The body is the original one, tires are red step pins and directional. I figure about $350 or more in spare parts for my race truck for $125 + shipping. Didn't really need it but I found it hard to pass up.

*anyone interested in a new xxxnt then goto stormerhobbies they have them for $149.99 on a Christmas blow out

*only gripe was that the tires were dirty I guess they ran my xnt before they shipped it eh? Hehe JK.

Sounds to me like *LOSI* will be cumming out with a new truck and we will all be buying obsolete parts just so they can try and compete it's the same thing *LOSI* always does to stay competitive!!! (going out of business) maybe don't get suckered boy's, good luck always :cool:
(IFITAN'TNITRODON'TDRINKIT)

[castror7]

rccarman5,

I just installed the $24.99 XTM .15 non pull start side exhaust in my Drake edition XXXNT and it works OK. I am using the Drake's manifold, and the Drake's tuned pipe. I used to have an RB Concept .12 rear exhaust non pull start, and it ran great for 6 months of awesome racing at The Dirt, but now the bearings are toast, although the compression is OK. Anyhow, you should not have any problems installing your XTM. However, you won't be able to catch the Drake. The dude is too fast, specially when Ryan Cavallieri is chasing him.

[Shady]

Originally posted by driller
***********Common Guys just listentoyourselves***********

*So is Ultimate Hobbies the cheapest place for the standard XXX-NT kit right now ($135)? Someone mentioned getting the XXX-NT kit for $125. Any ideas where? Also, any cheap leads on the Adam Drake edition XXX-NT?


*if anyone knows where u buy a kit for 125 please post

*I haven't seen the XXX-NT race kit(non-drake) for any less then $229, local LHS price is $249........Your looking for one less the $135?

*Kcobra, you do realize you used the word "cheap" 5 times in two sentences right? haha, just messin around.


*Wow, checked it out, looks like an unbelievable deal! I know for a fast the local hobby stores are paying over $197 for those kits...hhhmmmmmmm............:/....Jim

*This is the real deal, I got mine. The body is the original one, tires are red step pins and directional. I figure about $350 or more in spare parts for my race truck for $125 + shipping. Didn't really need it but I found it hard to pass up.

*anyone interested in a new xxxnt then goto stormerhobbies they have them for $149.99 on a Christmas blow out

*only gripe was that the tires were dirty I guess they ran my xnt before they shipped it eh? Hehe JK.

Sounds to me like *LOSI* will be cumming out with a new truck and we will all be buying obsolete parts just so they can try and compete it's the same thing *LOSI* always does to stay competitive!!! (going out of business) maybe don't get suckered boy's, good luck always :cool:
(IFITAN'TNITRODON'TDRINKIT)

The original kits are so cheap because of the drake coming out, same for the xxxs, the graphite car came out now they are trying to ditch the older kits and get the top kit, i mean who would buy the original kit at its regular price when the drake nt is a little more with tons of hop ups.....losi's new stuff is still a little while off



Fail R/C Racing
Bountyhunter Racing Engines

[dkj-M3]

Originally posted by driller
***********Common Guys just listentoyourselves***********

*So is Ultimate Hobbies the cheapest place for the standard XXX-NT kit right now ($135)? Someone mentioned getting the XXX-NT kit for $125. Any ideas where? Also, any cheap leads on the Adam Drake edition XXX-NT?


*if anyone knows where u buy a kit for 125 please post

*I haven't seen the XXX-NT race kit(non-drake) for any less then $229, local LHS price is $249........Your looking for one less the $135?

*Kcobra, you do realize you used the word "cheap" 5 times in two sentences right? haha, just messin around.


*Wow, checked it out, looks like an unbelievable deal! I know for a fast the lo