Team Losi XXXNT forum 4.0

[pooldoc101]

i know if i race the truck it will suffer more abuse, dont want foreign plastic breaking all the time. Also the need for speed will cause me to buy hopup parts so maybe the drake edition is the best deal.

[rccarman5]

if u are planning to race all out, yes the drake will be the best choice considering it has all the parts for racing, threaded shocks, more ridgid chassis, tuned pipe, graphite parts, and his name all over the damn place but it's ok

[pooldoc101]

did the maqth and from stormer, the nt and same radio as rtr and picco .12 mt, is less than 100 more than rtr,much better.glad u told me about that.:eek:

[KE2ric]

pooldoc101,

The RTRs do use a different plastic, but this is not necessarily a bad thing. From my understanding, the RTR plastic is softer and more flexible so it is less prone to breaking. Supposedly, some of the factory drivers use the RTR plastic parts on their trucks because of the durability.

[rccarman5]

but graphite is the best;)

[winning edge designs]

New truck, well that's not going to happen. It is possible for an update, but it would be something that can be bought seperate and would bolt on i'd suspect. Some different rear arm and hub geometry, maybe something like that, not a whole new truck. The low prices means only that Horizon and the LHS are trying to move inventory and the Drake kits are selling WAY easier most likely......if they did it at all, not entirely new, imo, but who knows for sure beside TeamLosi....Nobody except some GT guys....;), Jim

[winning edge designs]

Speaking of which, has anybody seen pics of the All new Associated GT yet? I hear from insiders it isn't far off at all and will be released before the new 2wd!!!......Jim

[rccarman5]

is it supposed to be better than the xxnt? if so, D'oh

[pooldoc101]

Jim, i want to get into nitro truck racing, have raced 10scale electic cars before. Do you have any advice on equipment, ie type and brand of offroad truck. I want to get a losi but unsure of rtr,arr or nt or drake. Your input would be appreciated. Thanks

[slodsm]

Pooldoc, it really depends on what you want to spend. I have both kit and rtr, I bought an RTR to try to teach the wife how to drive one. Well, she lost interest before the end of the first gallon so I have it as a backup incase the race truck breaks. I raced it once bone stock (loose track) and found it more controllable on the loose track and made 2 second faster lap times. Now one has a CVR and the other has a picco and both are covered in graphite. I have no complaints about the rtr plastic though or the different chassis metal. I never bent or broke anything. Just upgraded. If you think you can control the picco off the bat, I would say go for the kit because that Trinity Picco is cheap and it rips. If you want some offroad practice first, go with the RTR and upgrade, it is pretty cheap still to go to another motor and full graphite chassis. less than 250 bucks and you will have a bag full of spare parts incase you break parts later and need them right then, like 5 minutes before a main. Also, the only bad thing I can think of about the rtr are the turnbuckles, I found them to be very weak and they tend to bend on light impact that dont' even phase the arms. I replaced them with TI very quickly. Other than that, thats all the info I can think of.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by castror7
rccarman5,

I just installed the $24.99 XTM .15 non pull start side exhaust in my Drake edition XXXNT and it works OK. I am using the Drake's manifold, and the Drake's tuned pipe. I used to have an RB Concept .12 rear exhaust non pull start, and it ran great for 6 months of awesome racing at The Dirt, but now the bearings are toast, although the compression is OK. Anyhow, you should not have any problems installing your XTM. However, you won't be able to catch the Drake. The dude is too fast, specially when Ryan Cavallieri is chasing him.

LOL, that track is awesome. Went there on vacation during labour day weekend. It's an awesome track and people.

How do you do out there?

[Got Speed]

Sorry

[Crashbot2001]

Originally posted by pooldoc101
i know if i race the truck it will suffer more abuse, dont want foreign plastic breaking all the time. Also the need for speed will cause me to buy hopup parts so maybe the drake edition is the best deal.

I found that when I started racing, I actually broke less parts. Tracks are more forgiving on parts than back yards and construction sites.

The RTR plastic is better for new racers.. More flex, less break.. The Graphite is great for better racers as it allows for more consistant tuning due to no flex, though it will brake on hits where the RTR plastic would not.. Just don;t hit stuff! lol

I started racing with an RTR.. First thing to go was the trunbuckles.. Junk... Then the engine.. Other than that, it is very race worthy out of the box. If you want graphite parts, just add them as you break stuff. It will take you a while to get to a full graphite truck.. I've been racing mine every other weekend for several months and a lot of the parts are still RTR.. Front shock tower lasts forever(not the rear though). I would also suggest the trinity aluminum rear pivot block. I go went through a lot of the stock plastic ones before I broke down and bought one.. It just takes way too much work to change that part out to have it break.. Almost not enough time between heats to fix it, so gotta have it hold up..

[Nitro Newbie]

do you guys have any info on dynamite or ops engines they looks like a pretty good bang for the buck

[slodsm]

Never had an ops but had a few dynamite .12's, not bad for the money. Not as fast as CVR's and don't last as long but they are less than half the price and rebuilds are like 20 bucks. I would reccomend them for a basher or light club racer that just mainly wants to play.

[Nitro Newbie]

Sounds like what i am going to be doing maybe 2 or 3 races on saturdays and play for the rest of the week. At the track i go to, we can race .15's unless they are changing the rules do you have any pics or hp stats on the .12's or 15's?

[slodsm]

I have no idea about the RPM stats of either and we all know hp stats are pretty much useless but the .12 is rated at .5 and the .15 is rated at .85, it is listed on horizon hobby as the mach .15, same motor as the Losi RTR comes with. I have no idea on the OPS motors. The .12 has netted me quicker lap times in tha past when I ran a friends because of the more controllable power band.

[winning edge designs]

Pooldoc, here's my take and remember opinions may vary. After 16 years of doing this i've learned alot thru my own stubborness and mistakes.

I would recommend a truck kit to start, you'll need a XXX-NT "Kit", or the "Drake kit" if you can spend the extra cash it's a very sweet deal. But a gas truck requires alot of patience, they aren't complicated for someone who has "some" mechanical ability though. You may consider a RTR, but imo, that is a contradiction difficult to understand. Since someone who can't biuld the kit will not likely be successful repairing, tuning or maintaining one? I would also go with a O.S. engine, CV, or CV-R if your a power junkie and have the extra money. FM radio if you don't already have one and a good steering servo also. I use a 357 steering and 737 throttle servo(airtronics). I have an Orion reciever pack, since they use leads long enough to not need a jumper and have proven the most reliable for me. Not sure if it's the welds they use during assembly or not, but they have lasted longer then other brands for me................I think Your set? Let me know if you need any help at all, ttyl, Jim

[banditwing]

I do not like the Mach .15 at all! It ran well for about a gallon, then everything was downhill from there. I also replaced the piston and sleeve. So with only about 1/4 gallon through this new piston and sleeve, it wont start! I know it's 30 degrees out and snowing, but i want to run my truck!!

It just wont start. I've changed the glow plug, glow driver is charged, warmed it up a hair dryer, everything. Thats it, Im saving up for either a trx 2.5 or an OS cvr in the spring. I've had it with this mach bullpoopy. ANd even when it was warm, it still would not run well! I had to have it super rich to run anything below 250 degrees.

[castror7]

Originally posted by Got Speed
LOL, that track is awesome. Went there on vacation during labour day weekend. It's an awesome track and people.

How do you do out there?

GotSpeed,

I am doing OK. I Have won a couple of times at The Dirt in expert class when the Drake and Cavallieri are not there. I go every Friday night after work. Have a lot of fun. I am a good driver now, so I don't need a super fast motor. My XXXNT Drake edition has been modified with Trinity machined rear hub carriers, machined rear pivot, machined front pivot, Trinity battery pack, and Hitech high speed high torque servos steering and throttle. As far as the motor, the XTM will do for now. When the XTM dies, I'll just throw it away and get an OS Max .12, port it, and keep on having fun.

castror7

[winning edge designs]

Banditwing, i've also noticed the cheaper sport motors need alot of heat to run well. I've run some as high as 280-300 degrees to get them running well. But they still weren't as reliable or as powerful as an O.S. CV even, nevermind the CV-R!............They will work and get a racers truck moving, etc. But I can't see why someone would buy an "off-brand" engine for $80 when an O.S. CV is $89? The CV-R is only $125........A few bucks more and your done messin' with engines constantly...imo,Jim

[winning edge designs]

I also forgot to mention if your a power junkie and money isn't as tight the Orion Wasp I just put in my truck is awesome, at $159 it should be,:).......But on a budget, the CV series can't be beat.....Jim

[castror7]

Originally posted by winning edge designs
I also forgot to mention if your a power junkie and money isn't as tight the Orion Wasp I just put in my truck is awesome, at $159 it should be,:).......But on a budget, the CV series can't be beat.....Jim

Winning Edge Design,

I agree with your assessment of OS's motors. BTW, I paid $24.99 for an XTM .15 non pull start. As soon as it dies, I'll throw it away and buy an OS Max .12 non pull start, port it, and keep on having fun.

castror7

[dkj-M3]

will two 2400 nicad packs last longer & be stronger than the gel cells that are used in a starter box? I'm tring to decide to buy a new box or just new motors & gell cell or just the new motors & hook-up the 2400's.

[banditwing]

Well, I guess I am a power junkie, but on a budget hehe. :P

I think I may just end up going with the tried and true os cvr .12. At $125 for a pullstart slide on tower, it looks like a great deal. Soon to come is a starter box after that, im sick of getting tenis elbow! haha

What I am looking at also is the TRX 2.5, if they ever make it in a standard crank. I know my track will not let me race with it, but I don't race that much either (3 times a year or so). Plus, if it stays at the $150 price, thats a pretty good deal for an engine that makes the NR do 50. I am also pretty sure that the purchase of the 2.5 includes the Traxxas lifetime engine replacement plan, where I can trade the worn out engine for new one at about a $60 cost.

[slodsm]

Originally posted by dkj-M3
will two 2400 nicad packs last longer & be stronger than the gel cells that are used in a starter box? I'm tring to decide to buy a new box or just new motors & gell cell or just the new motors & hook-up the 2400's.

They will not last longer but will be much stronger. It will make 14.4 volts instead of the 12 provided by the gel cell. A gell cell can go for weeks without a charge though and I think my nicads are getting weak about once a week during the summer when I am racing a lot.

[dkj-M3]

thanx, guess i'll stick to the gel

[winning edge designs]

dkjm3, I agree with the above post. I've tried nicad starter boxes and got frustrated with the constant recharging. That and the fact they usually only come with 540 or 550 style powered boxes........imo, not the hot ticket. Stick with a Big motor, gel cell or sealed lead acid style box....Jim

[Got Speed]

castror7- LOL just ok. Sounds pretty good to me. Do they hold any other big races other than the saturday series? I am thinking about coming out to enter something next year out there.

banditwing- The wasp is also pretty good. My track is now selling them at $135 the same I paid for my CV-R. You will need a rear exuast header too but it's a really good engine. Faster than the CV-R but maybe not so easy to tune or as reliable.

[castror7]

Originally posted by Got Speed
castror7- LOL just ok. Sounds pretty good to me. Do they hold any other big races other than the saturday series? I am thinking about coming out to enter something next year out there.

banditwing- The wasp is also pretty good. My track is now selling them at $135 the same I paid for my CV-R. You will need a rear exuast header too but it's a really good engine. Faster than the CV-R but maybe not so easy to tune or as reliable.

Got Speed,

dude, The Dirt hosts one of the biggest races each year. Towards the end of January, The Dirt hosts the Nitro Challenge, which is one of the hottest events of the year. All of the big names are there. I have been setting up right next to the Drake, the Easton, the Cavallieri, the Saxton, the Kinwald, etc....You can't lose. Show up, and you will be treated to the best of the best, specially Joey Christiensen, who runs the track, and he is the most awesome dude around. The Dirt Girls add class to the event. See you there.

castror7:D :D

[pooldoc101]

Jim, thanks for the advice, you have some valid points to consider,I was considering the rtr for several reasons,price first, you know its christmas and that is putting a pinch on the old wallet. My main question is that if I get the rtr, is it a truck that will be competetive? They'll most likely put me in a beginner class,I'm familiar with the system at tracks,I raced a 10L for years. I'm not intimidated by building a kit, I've built several cars . All of my RC stuff is gone, borrowed, given away ,lost. I'll be starting new and the rtr comes with most of the essentials. I figure I'll modify the truck as needed or wanted as I go(thats half the fun,isn't it?):) I did the math and an XXXnt kit, same radio as rtr, and a .12 engine(don't remember which one, iI think it was a picco)was about 95 dollars more than rtr. Which wasn't too much, but is it worth it? I can't afford fm or drake edition. Thats not including shipping. The local hobby shop sells the rtr for 299, ive seen it at 264 mail order. I guess what I really need to know is if the rtr is an inferior cheapy product that won't suit my needs. I'm sure if I got the NT I would spend just as much hopping it up, with the exception of the motor, well at least till I get better at driving it. I havent raced in 7 years and I know I'll be rusty, plus I 4raced oval, and turning right scares the heck out of me. But please let me know about the rtr,Thanks in advance.

[slodsm]

The RTR will be competitive in club racing. Esp in a novice class. Those races are won and lost by driver more than equipment. It does give you all the basice you will need to start and you can upgrade with all the better parts as you go. Everything is interchangeable. And Losi did not put out a poor quality product there either. It is fine.

[KE2ric]

Pooldoc,

Just my humble opinion here, but go for the kit version if you have the cash to spare. With the kit only costing $135, and a .12 CV-R only costing $109 (at tower hobbies), you can buy all the stuff seperately and not spend that much more than the RTR and you will end up with a far superior radio and engine. You will probably save money in the long run too.

Now having said that, I think the RTR is a fine truck and will drive as good as any other NT with the right setup. In fact I decided to get my own XXX-NT after driving a RTR version.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by castror7
Got Speed,

dude, The Dirt hosts one of the biggest races each year. Towards the end of January, The Dirt hosts the Nitro Challenge, which is one of the hottest events of the year. All of the big names are there. I have been setting up right next to the Drake, the Easton, the Cavallieri, the Saxton, the Kinwald, etc....You can't lose. Show up, and you will be treated to the best of the best, specially Joey Christiensen, who runs the track, and he is the most awesome dude around. The Dirt Girls add class to the event. See you there.

castror7:D :D

I thought that was being held at pegasus this year and last? :confused: LOL Dang if it were later in the year I would probably do it but being after Chrismas it will be hard. Ill start saving for next year. Id really like to attend. Do they have novice, sportsman, and expert, or just novice and expert? Right now Im making it into the A-Main out of 12 people average but Im usually getting about 4 of 6 in it. By next year I should be alot better. Maybe in the summer when i get a job I can start racing every week instead of every other week.

[castror7]

Originally posted by Got Speed
I thought that was being held at pegasus this year and last? :confused: LOL Dang if it were later in the year I would probably do it but being after Chrismas it will be hard. Ill start saving for next year. Id really like to attend. Do they have novice, sportsman, and expert, or just novice and expert? Right now Im making it into the A-Main out of 12 people average but Im usually getting about 4 of 6 in it. By next year I should be alot better. Maybe in the summer when i get a job I can start racing every week instead of every other week.


Got Speed,

Is there any serious racing in Phoenix?

castror7

[winning edge designs]

pooldoc, the above posts make sense to me as well.

I'd try and swing the extra money and biuld the kit, you'll know it much better that way. I do think the RTR uses "less expensive" bearings and plastic which is more flexible. Not always a bad thing, but for the $60 or so more (mail order) i'd go with the kit. I'd also go with the CV, not the CV-R, since gas and turning right will create a learning curve. More power and expense is not a good recipe for learning!

As far as mods go, we all love to do that, it's hard to fight the urge. Even though the stock kit needs nothing, we try and get a few itmes to seperate it from stock. Yet we all complain about the cost of racing while we're at the LHS dropping $120 on aluminum, etc., rather then tires and fuel for practice?.....I say spend what you can but be picky in what you modify, especially until you learn what items you really NEED, rather then want.......Have fun, Jim

[pooldoc101]

Thanks everybody for the advice! Jim youmight be a little late though i just ordered a CV=RX thru the mail, I hope I can handle the horses! I am going to get the kit NT, can you recomend a radio, I see a FM pistol grip for 99, which is the same price as the radio I planned to get. The same radio that comes with the rtr kit. Any advice will be appreciated

[banditwing]

I got an MX-3 lately, I like it a lot just by playing with it for a few moments, but I have not had a chance to actually test it in a truck yet, but it seems solid quality (Cept for the 3rd channel switch bein a little wiggly). You can get them for around $110. Mine was $140 including tax at my lhs for 2 servos. I probly could have gotten it cheaper online, but I like the friendlyness of the lhs.

Got a question with the mach .15. I've tried every needle setting from 2 turns out (Very lean for 30 degree weather) to 4 turns out (Very Rich) on the HS needle, and the engine still stalls when I accelerate above 1/3 throttle! I don't get it, i even let it warm up for over a minute!

Oh well, I guess I will go with a .12 CVR, since the Mach was a tuning experiment.

[BlueBlaster01]

Stripped Diff?

I went to tighten the diff up and it won't tighten? :( I followed the instructons exactly and tightend it every 4-5 tanks. (Only has 1/2 Gallon through) :rolleyes: So is it stripped or what? And If so what Parts will I need to fix it? Thanks

[winning edge designs]

pooldoc, You'll be ok with any FM radio that includes end point adjustments. Imo,The M8 is the "best", but it's overkill for about 75% of the racers that have one or two cars and that radio. End points are important though, since setting radio trim can help servo's live longer.

Blueblaster, yes, it sounds like it's stripped, or melted out. Time for dissassembly. After repair and biulding it "exaclty as the instructions say" again, set the slipper to slip before the diff. ?No matter how loose or tight the diff is, the slipper must slip first.

See you people when I return from our regionals this weekend...........Jim

[Dingus]

Another round:

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=dmong2&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=25

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by castror7
Got Speed,

Is there any serious racing in Phoenix?

castror7

Well the Cactus Classic is held there every spring. Electric only though. The normal racing isn't as serious as at the dirt but it's still fairly serious racing. I go on tuesdays. There are more people on saturdays but I can't make it on saturdays. :)

[KE2ric]

Hey NTers,

What kind of bearing goes in the clutch bell? In the instruction manual it appears that the clutch bell bearings are flanged, but the ones in the parts bag in my kit are not flanged and will not fit flush in the bell.

**Never mind. The bearings don't fit flush, but there doesnt seem to be a problem with everything fitting.

[BlueBlaster01]

I may sound like an idiot (first rc), butr how do you set the slipper so it slips before the diff? It also still drives and stuff? ON a scale of 1-10 how hard is it to "rebuild"the diff?

[rccarman5]

i have a question. does stormer bodies, come painted the way they advertise them, like the triton one? cuz for 17 bux, thats an awsome price.

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=LOS8025

[AreCee]

I doubt that it's painted since it says that paint masks are included. Losi bodies don't come with the decals, you'll need to purchase those separately for 3.95 at Stormer. Add that to the 17.95 for the body and it comes to 21.90 so you may want to consider Pro-Line's Crowd Pleaser body too.

Just to be sure give Stormer a call on the telephone.

[cabbynate]

rccarman5,
No.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by BlueBlaster01
I may sound like an idiot (first rc), butr how do you set the slipper so it slips before the diff? It also still drives and stuff? ON a scale of 1-10 how hard is it to "rebuild"the diff?

Hold your finger on the spur gear to keep it from moving and push the truck forward(or hold one wheel and turn the other). If the slipper shaft turns then the slipper is slipping before the diff. If it dosn't you need to tighten you diff. If the diff slips in the slightest bit you need to tighten it down. I put a huge glob of thread lock on mine so it won't loosen untill I need to rebuild.

[pooldoc101]

can aqnyone tell me the difference between the OS CV-R and the CV-RX ?

[Got Speed]

The CV-R is non pull start the CV-RX is pull start.

[pooldoc101]

thanks for the info!

[Nitro Newbie]

ive seen it at 264 mail order

where at?

[bubbastump]

hey all i bet you all have the same problem with the battery box breakin off. well i know how to fix that problem
goto
http://www.mdrcracing.com
they r in the process of designing a better box
look in the fourm

[FleaUDP]

Originally posted by bubbastump
hey all i bet you all have the same problem with the battery box breakin off. well i know how to fix that problem
goto
http://www.mdrcracing.com
they r in the process of designing a better box
look in the fourm

Yes he is right, we are in the process of designing a battery box thats unbreakable or free replacement.


And its not made out of Alum. Will be roar legal, and hold 4 and 5 cell packs.

Box should be done around xmas time or around that timeframe. We're also working on a few other upgrades to the Nt.

If you do want more info, yes visit my site, and in the forum section, you will find the info about the parts.

[rccarman5]

anyone have any special tips on building losi bottom shocks? i need all the tips i can get to make srue i build nice quite, nice operating shocks.

thanks

[Dingus]

Follow the directions.

Oil the shaft/cartridge and be VERY careful not to knick the o-rings when pushing the shaft through the cartridge.

Do not overtighten or undertighten the cartridge when bleeding.

Losi shocks are some of the easiest to assemble and bleed.

Good luck!

[rccarman5]

also, dont i have to hav like a few mm's of space between teh piston and cartridage wen i put i in? there was a reason i just forgot. xtremerc mag had it somewhere.

[Dingus]

You should put the piston on after you push the shaft through the cartridge, that way you don't have to push the threaded end through the o-rings, just the notch for the e-clips.

[mids1999]

I currently have a rc10gt
the really old tub chassis one with white plastic parts.
I am thinking about getting the xxx-nt but I have a few questions.

1. Will my picco .12 with the crank cut for the gt fit the xxx-nt?
or
will I have to get a new crank?

2. Should I buy the new Drake edition $320
or
Should I buy the standard edition for $150 and buy all the upgrades so that I have alot of spare parts?
I havent figured out the price of the upgrades yet.
If someone knows how much the upgrades would cost please let me know.

Thanks
Mike

[Locus]

Originally posted by Dingus
Another round:

http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=dmong2&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=25

Quick question about the Drake parts listed at Ebay......will these parts work as replacement parts on a XXXNT RTR?

[Herpetologist]

They will fit with no problem.
Dustin

[Got Speed]

mids1999- The picco should work. Depends on how short it is. Most of the time you can put a short shaft on with no problem as long as you use plenty of loctite to keep the crank nut from loosening.

[Got Speed]

mids1999-

1-The picco should work. Depends on how short it is. Most of the time you can put a short shaft on with no problem as long as you use plenty of loctite to keep the crank nut from loosening.

2-Depends on if you are racing or not. I have one and have absolutly no complaints. All praises.

3- All the drake parts will cost alot more than the difference in price between the two kits.

[mids1999]

Thanks for the info.

How many parts are different on the Drake Kit?

I am glad that I may be able to use the Picco. (I sure hope so)

I will be racing eventually.
My lhs and track (American Raceway in English Town, NJ)
may be going out of business if they can not find a buyer soon.

I may have to look into alternative tracks but I will be racing next season.

[rccarman5]

ok i'm so mad righ tnow, i was building my car, i was at the axles, adn they have us put the pin in for the yoke, it was so hard? i tried puting it in and i bent the axle side, or u know where the ball is? will TL send me a free one ? i mean dammit, they should bild those for us. i'm so mad. i got one done, but not the other, and i can't bend it bak because it will mess it up.

any suggestions on how to install them correctly and how i can get another one?

[rccarman5]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^

o and the turnbuckles. anyone have any tips on installing them. i can get them in perfectly, but it takes a little while, and i'm sure there is a method of completing them pretty fast. thanks.

[busades]

hey come on anyone ever try a .21, u got to go an the wild side, props out to the guy who did twin .12 that was cool. rpm isent everything with more tourqe u can gear it higher to get speed. anyone ever doen a .21 i want to do one, when i do lol it will be sick.

[winning edge designs]

rccarman5, I usually press them in with a small pair of channel locks I got at Home Depot. They go in easy once you figure out how they like being pressed in straight and slowly. Plus i've done about a thousand of them now....literally!
For the turnbuckles I use a tool I got from Racers edge(I think?). It is anodized red and holds both TeamLosi and Associated style ballcups while you thread them onto a turnbuckle with a lunsford wrench. Call the guys at Superior Hobbies about it, or check with them thru thier website at the usual w's superiorhobbies and a dot com,:).

No need for a .21 in my XXX-NT, I raced on a slick track this weekend and my Orion Wasp was a handful. Even on a hooked up track it's got a TON of Power and wheelies like mad! Try a decent .12 before bolting in an engine that will make the truck handle poorly and crash more often rather then being faster on ANY track....maybe a wide open parking lot, but that gets boring quickly, buzzing back and forth, imo......Jim

[busades]

guy im talken backyard bashen not racen. it will be fast cuz u can just change the gearing in it since its got more power! i want to do somen different. everyones got a .12 in their xxx-nt yet no one ive seen got a .21. im gona malso but a 1/8 buggy stearing survo to it can turn.

[dkj-M3]

well, I just got back from racing & a guy had a GT with a 21, had to put all robison racing metal gears in the tranny & keep'em oiled very often, he started it up but I didn't see him race it, It sounded like too much maintenance(sp?) to me. I'd just get a 8th scale buggy, for all out power & speed.

[busades]

i got the xxx-nt rtr already and ive broken a lot of parts. i just want it to go really fast lol and be different. i was gona put a novarossi .12 with 1.5 hp in it but i thought a .21 was too cool. too bad u cant get metal gears for its tranny. so u think i should stick with a .12 or go wild lol. im only 15 so if i got to rebuild my tranny after every week well its not worth it to me. i just want it to go faster lol and be different. like i want it to do around 55-70 mph lol, but still be able to accel. whats the best waty to get those break neck speeds, a .21?

[dkj-M3]

yeah that's cool. I did the same thing when I got my 1st car, i had it going as fast as my money would take it, then I got bored with it, & now I just race, I guess until i get bored with racing,LOL

I'LL NEVER GET TIRED OF RACING:D

[rcdestroyer]

anybody have suggestions on better steering, i have the Jr z270 servo in it and the stock directional tires

[igozoom]

While the jr 270's are satisfactory servo's for backyard bashing, there are many servos which have better transient time and more torque. I have run jr 4750's (80.00 ?)which are pretty decent. My latest "servo love" centers around a Futaba 9402 (95-110.00).

If you really want to get crazy, talk to W.E.D. He is using a steering servo with enough torque to turn his full size vehicle ! hehehe.

People are highly opinionated about servos. As an example, I had one bad experience with Hitec servos and will never use them again. Yet a number of very fast guys use them at the track with no problems whatsoever. Read everything you can and make up your own mind.

The only thing standing in the way of lightning fast transient time and 100+ torque oz. is the size of your checkbook ! :D

Finally, IMHO, there is no such thing as a great, fast, strong servo. You get what you pay for.

[BlueBlaster01]

I stripped my diff. nut. I'm just guessing I applied too much torque. Is there any place I can buy JUST the nut because if I order Losi parts I have to buy the entire adjuster assemblie? And that nut stripped pretty damn easy. Is there anything else I should replace(from the kit version) in my RTR transmission to make it more durable/perform better? I appreciate the help. -BlueBlaster01

[bogz]

I've noticed that some times my pull starter will only turn the engine over once and then spin free (instead of turning it over 10 or so times like it should)

Is there an adjustment for this?

Thanks in advance.

[slodsm]

Originally posted by BlueBlaster01
I stripped my diff. nut. I'm just guessing I applied too much torque. Is there any place I can buy JUST the nut because if I order Losi parts I have to buy the entire adjuster assemblie? And that nut stripped pretty damn easy. Is there anything else I should replace(from the kit version) in my RTR transmission to make it more durable/perform better? I appreciate the help. -BlueBlaster01

If you buy associated'd 4x40 steel nuts, you can replace just that. I am not sure of the part number, I threw away the top of the package but they ahould be available at your LHS.

[mids1999]

If anyone wants some Hammad Ghuman Long Titanium Ball Ends for testing check out their web site under the hot deals section.
They are number 7453.0
Heres a link (http://www.1hg.com/home/Indexnf.htm)

They describe them as being irregular during manufacturing and thus slightly off dimensionally.
But how bad can they be for under $4 per set of 4?

I ordered a few sets and I will report on my findings shortly after I recieve them.

I should have them in a day or two with standard shipping.
I am in NJ they are in NY.

[BlueBlaster01]

Originally posted by bogz
I've noticed that some times my pull starter will only turn the engine over once and then spin free (instead of turning it over 10 or so times like it should)

Is there an adjustment for this?

Thanks in advance.

Mine done this twice,so far after a 1/2 gallon of fuel. So What I do is I take off the pull starter and wipe it all down. (usually a coating of what I think is after run oil/nitro??) Then You remove the back plate and wipe all that up and put the piece that holds onto the connecting rod back on properly(Its got two slots, I like to move the crankshaft until the piston is all the way BDC (Bottom Dead Center) then put the slots vertical and put the slot on the con rod connecting pin. Then re-assemble. Make sure you put the Back Plate back on the right way to allow the piston clearance at BDC.

Sorry for not knowing the proper terms, I am new to this stuff aswell but not to 2 stroke engines....just not used to the VERY VERY simple design of these little engines.


Back to my question, should I bother changing from the RTR spring Style Diff set up to the washer set up from the kit?

[busades]

does the sirio tx-18 fit in the xxx-nt i want to do it lol.

[RCRACER2471]

i want the XNT RTR becaz of the radio and the setup of the car. Even though i know its for racing, i still wana get it for bashing. Do u think thats a good idea. I also heard about the engine being ok. If its not to good i just might buy the kit instead. What do u think?

[Anthen27]

I just ordered a Losi XXX NT from ultimate hobbies for a great price of $134.95 and a sirio .12 for it also, I have a few questions for you Losi experts ( I usally run 1/8 scale buggys and trucks), Has anyone used this Sirio .12 motor in the Losi XXX NT? Do I need a standard threaded crank or a SG style? Which carb throttle configuration rotary or slide? Also where can I get an exhaust header for a rear exhaust Sirio 12 to for the XXX NT?, Thanks...

[Bundus]

I picked up the RTR XXX-NT Sport on the weekend, I was gonna grab the Drake kit but after engine and radio it was totally out of my price range.

So anyways, i got her all broke in on Saturday, 7.5 tanks of fuel before the sun went down and got to cold to bare (10F or so). I then decided to wake up early on Sunday and continue the break in with a few more tanks and a higher speed and leaner setup (gotta get that temperature high enough for break in to be effective).

So anyways after I went though my first tank of gas it was getting a little tosty so I richened it up a bit to cool the engine. I then took off full throttle down the street, applied the breaks, whipped a 360 doughnut into the curb and shattered the left suspension arm. My fun for the day ended rather fast.

I picked up a new graphite suspension arm at my lhs for $15.00 (canadian) and will be mounting that tonight and maybe have a quick go with it out on the street lighted road.

Anyways, I am so confused about the differential and really what I am supposed to know and look for. I follow the directions as explained in the manual. Tighten the slipper nut, hold spur gear, hold one tire in place and turn the other one towards the rear of the car. Well, sounds simple enough.

The problem I am having is that I am not sure what to look for in a loose differential. If I hold the spur gear and right tire and spin the left it has some give to it sorta like that feeling of bending plastic right before it breaks. Ya know like it flexes but won't really turn. Now is that loose or tight or right on? How will I know if its loose? How would I know if its tight? What happens if loosen the slippernut more then the suggested 3x360?

I am a total noob and decided that if I wanted to get into RC I would start with whats concidered the best RTR out there. My roommate has an RC10GT+ and with how simple its mechanics are I begin to wonder if I should have got one as well.

Any verteran insite into my questions would be returned with the most of gratitude.

[Dingus]

It sounds like you have the diff a little too tight. It should turn a bit when it is about right. Make your adjustments in very small increments and don't overtighten anything.

Don't let the Losi diff slip under acceleration. That's what the slipper is for. That, but mainly so you don't break gears when landing big jumps.

You will have to experiment with the slipper or ask your bud with the GT. Neither car is that difficult to wrench. Both have their advantages and disadvantages.

[rccarman5]

what other glue can i use to glue my tires to the rim that i can find somewhere else than teh hobby store. i dont have a hobby store near by and would like to use some other glue to glue the tires. anything recommended. thanks.

[Dingus]

Tire glue is the same as any other CA or "Super" glue except that is is usually thinner and dries slower. This is to let it run through the bead and give you time to adjust. I have tried regular CA glue and was amazed at how much better and easier tire glue was to work with.

I would also highly recommend the Losi offroad tire glue set. You get the wide bands and the needle to get into the bead with out making a mess.

[BlueBlaster01]

Originally posted by Bundus
What happens if loosen the slippernut more then the suggested 3x360?



In my manual Losi suggests 5/360 degree turns.
:confused:

[ragamuffin]

Originally posted by Bundus
So anyways after I went though my first tank of gas it was getting a little tosty so I richened it up a bit to cool the engine. I then took off full throttle down the street, applied the breaks, whipped a 360 doughnut into the curb and shattered the left suspension arm. My fun for the day ended rather fast.

I picked up a new graphite suspension arm at my lhs for $15.00 (canadian) and will be mounting that tonight and maybe have a quick go with it out on the street lighted road.

Anyways, I am so confused about the differential and really what I am supposed to know and look for. I follow the directions as explained in the manual. Tighten the slipper nut, hold spur gear, hold one tire in place and turn the other one towards the rear of the car. Well, sounds simple enough.

The problem I am having is that I am not sure what to look for in a loose differential. If I hold the spur gear and right tire and spin the left it has some give to it sorta like that feeling of bending plastic right before it breaks. Ya know like it flexes but won't really turn. Now is that loose or tight or right on? How will I know if its loose? How would I know if its tight? What happens if loosen the slippernut more then the suggested 3x360?


So...still thinking of trying to stuff a .21 in your truck? Lmfao. :p

[Bundus]

And i quote...

...adjust your slipper back to its original adjustment by loosing the lock nut three full turns (360 x 3)

[Bundus]

Originally posted by ragamuffin
So...still thinking of trying to stuff a .21 in your truck? Lmfao. :p

not a chance in the world man. the mach .15 has tons of power when leaned just right (250F). I could only imagine what a CV-R would be like.

[busades]

ragamuffin na i think i will go for a sirio tx-18 like its the same power as a .21 but in a small block ;) but i not doing anything untill i talk to this guy at the shore first since hes doen losts of conversions so i will see if he thinks its doable or well u know not to hard on the trans and will work out ok.

[winning edge designs]

At our Regional race I decided to rebiuld my diff, since the outdrives had huge craters worn in them at the dogbone friction area. The diff had about 3 gallons on it and 1 year, approx. ......Anyway.......I ended up paying close attention to my final slipper adjustment point and noted it required almost 6 turns out from bottomed. CHECK this adjustment on your particular truck, they are not all the same, due to threaded rod differences, machining differences, ability to count turns, etc. The slipper must slip before the diff, and i'd recommend starting (after setting diff with slipper tight) at 5 turns from bottomed!

I set my Diff so it is a little tighter then i'd like it to end up at, run it in on the bench, then retighten as needed. Once set to a reasonable adjustment, (not like a posi, not like a dry gear diff) set the slipper to slip first. Regardless of how many tuns that takes!!!

My diff worked excellent in the 45 minute A main and still feels like butta' after it!...............Had to restart my engine 3 times and change the glow plug finally, but the diff was great,LOL......Jim

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by BlueBlaster01
Mine done this twice,so far after a 1/2 gallon of fuel. So What I do is I take off the pull starter and wipe it all down. (usually a coating of what I think is after run oil/nitro??) Then You remove the back plate and wipe all that up and put the piece that holds onto the connecting rod back on properly(Its got two slots, I like to move the crankshaft until the piston is all the way BDC (Bottom Dead Center) then put the slots vertical and put the slot on the con rod connecting pin. Then re-assemble. Make sure you put the Back Plate back on the right way to allow the piston clearance at BDC.

Sorry for not knowing the proper terms, I am new to this stuff aswell but not to 2 stroke engines....just not used to the VERY VERY simple design of these little engines.


Back to my question, should I bother changing from the RTR spring Style Diff set up to the washer set up from the kit?

I wouldn't bother switching to the washers. Some people switch from the washers to the spring. Some people switch from the spring to the washer. Ive heard both praised but I don't think there is much difference. I know you arn't losing any performance either way. As far as I know. :rolleyes:



busades- I don't think there is a sirio .18 is there?!:confused:

[dkj-M3]

it's being made for the t-maxx's

[Got Speed]

Oh and,

rcdestroyer- It depends on alot of things. Quicker steering? More bite? Or what. Are you racing? Ask around at the track if so what kind of oil and springs and all that stuff they are running. If you search for RC Car Tuning or something along those lines you will find some good guides on tuning your car to the track or backyard(if you have problems). lol :p

[igozoom]

Read your post about the Racer's Edge ball cup tool. I bought one yesterday. It is easily the best tool I have ever purchased for RC. I did 12 ball ends for my new xxx-4 in 5 minutes ! Then, changed the all the ball cups on my Drake, just because I could ! lol

Gone are the days when I shuddered at the thought of changing ball cups.

I am buying a second one today and sleeping with it under my pillow !

Thanks Jim.

Hey, what other slick tools are you hoarding ? Don't make me drive to a State Series race just to dig through your tool box while you're racing. :D

[Crashbot2001]

I've replaced all of my inside ball cups and balls with captured rod ends. I would like to do the same with the outside. The problem is that I have the lundsfor titanium rods, and with the captured ends, which are shorter than the ball cup ends, I'm a bit worried about the amount of rod threaded into the end. I run -1 degree camber front and back and that doesn't leave a lot of rod in the ends. Does someone make a captured end that has a longer shank for threading to the rod? If so, who, and where can I get them. Thanks!

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Crashbot2001
I've replaced all of my inside ball cups and balls with captured rod ends. I would like to do the same with the outside. The problem is that I have the lundsfor titanium rods, and with the captured ends, which are shorter than the ball cup ends, I'm a bit worried about the amount of rod threaded into the end. I run -1 degree camber front and back and that doesn't leave a lot of rod in the ends. Does someone make a captured end that has a longer shank for threading to the rod? If so, who, and where can I get them. Thanks!

I have the same problem. I bought the Traxxas rod ends which are about half the size of the ball cup. I am running them on the inside with the ball stud moved out on the outside and the captured end moved out on the tower.

I have seen the Rocket City ones at my track once but they havn't had them for a long time now. I do now know where to get them either. If anyone know Id appreciate it.

[Crashbot2001]

Got speed, i did the same thing. I had to move all my connections to the outside on the towers and the inside on the hubs and such. Not the ideal situation.. need longer ends... Someone help us out here!

[AreCee]

Try using the DuBro rod ends, they're longer and not as flexible as some people believe. I've been using those since the Ultima days back in the late 80's and never had one fail except once when a wheel rim cut through it.

[bogz]

Has anyone modified their RTR to use a Yank Eliminator?

How was your success? Pictures?

[Crashbot2001]

AreCee, I was looking at those. My only question was the durability, but sounds like you had no problems in that area.. Thanks a lot.

Got Speed, Tower has twelve packs of those ends HERE (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAPC5&P=7)

Also, I might check these out by great planes.. Looks like I might be able to die them to be colored.. not sure if they are as tough though.. Thye look the same...HERE (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK097&P=7)

[AreCee]

I switched to those DuBros after my first trip to the track with the xxx-nt and broke three ball studs off the rear tower. Now I'll admit that the truck was new then and I was landing poorly causing them to break. Since then I haven't had a single problem with the DuBro cap. balls even when landing a bit off.

I'm not sure about those Great Planes white ones. Those seem like they may be nylon and if they are will be somewhat more flexible. I'm not sure but that's what they look like to me.

[banditwing]

Im used to using the spring in my diff because I have the rtr, but when I build my kit, there are washers?

Is there really any performance advantages, or is it just a prefrence, because then i'll stick to the spring cause i know how to adjust it, and i dont want to accidentally break a locknut just by experiment.

[rccarman5]

W.E.D: do u have a part number on that turnbuckle tool? or a complete name? or can u give me a direct link with a picture on their website. i cannot find it anywhere.

[rccarman5]

o nevermind, i found it but how r u supposed to use it? what do u with it?

[LosiRacer911]

Well i have enjoyed driving and playing around with losi vehicles for 10 years, but i am afraid that i am selling my losi xxxnt because of bad experiences like transmission problems. it is time for an associated now!!Good luck to ya'll!!

[tarvymoto]

You'll have to change your name to : Associatedissoslow911:D

[BlueBlaster01]

help, Quick :cool:

I see a body I want for my XXX NT painted and everything....but its for a XXX-T will it fit?? I'd like to know as soon as possible, because the auction is a dutch auction:p Thanks!

[rccarman5]

i believe so. btw, do u have a link? i wold like to see it. thanks.

[BlueBlaster01]

Heres another one that the seller is selling
http://**************/ws/*******************************1925410000

Any of you bid on this one, they will die... :p Just Joking...
heres the one I want
http://**************/ws/*******************************1925407727
I like both, I dunno what to do!

umm, ok why do they have ebay blocked???

[speedydave]

As far as I know, it will not fit. The XXXNT body is wider and has a bulge on the left side for the pipe, and the shock tower(rear) clearance may be in a different spot.

[pooldoc101]

Has anyone heard anything about the JR XR3i, i want to get one but need feedback first. Thanks in advance for any info.

[dkj-M3]

Originally posted by BlueBlaster01
help, Quick :cool:

I see a body I want for my XXX NT painted and everything....but its for a XXX-T will it fit?? I'd like to know as soon as possible, because the auction is a dutch auction:p Thanks!


I've had both trucks & no it wont fit.

[dkj-M3]

Originally posted by Crashbot2001
I've replaced all of my inside ball cups and balls with captured rod ends. I would like to do the same with the outside. The problem is that I have the lundsfor titanium rods, and with the captured ends, which are shorter than the ball cup ends, I'm a bit worried about the amount of rod threaded into the end. I run -1 degree camber front and back and that doesn't leave a lot of rod in the ends. Does someone make a captured end that has a longer shank for threading to the rod? If so, who, and where can I get them. Thanks!


My hobby shop stocks the Parma ends now so thats what I use, they are the same length as the ball cups, just put washers on the outer & inner part & use a long enough 4/40 screw & a nut on the other side(by the batt box) to keep the screw from stripping out. It happens but not often.

[dkj-M3]

Originally posted by cabbynate
I use rocket city captured ball ends on the rear of my NT with super duty lunsfords. You can't get rocket city's but you can get them from www.nelsonhobby.com. They work great.
Go to linkage fittings and click on "Samples". You would need part # L601.


or use the above.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by banditwing
Im used to using the spring in my diff because I have the rtr, but when I build my kit, there are washers?

Is there really any performance advantages, or is it just a prefrence, because then i'll stick to the spring cause i know how to adjust it, and i dont want to accidentally break a locknut just by experiment.

It is all personal preference. The spring seems like it would work better but Im not tearing apart my tranny to find out.

Does anyone have a link to the parma ends? Or is there still a place to buy Rocket City ends?

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by dkj-M3
or use the above.

Ok thanks.

[Got Speed]

Do you have an exact link to it? I can't seem to find them on the site.

[AreCee]

Excuse me for having a senior moment. I just realized that the captured ball ends I'm using are not DuBro but they are Parma. I bought them 12 years ago so I forgot.

Anyway they still work which is the bottom line. Here's a link to Tower: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0091P?&C=CMA&V=PAR

[dkj-M3]

http://www.parmapse.com/rcitem.asp?n=12803

or

http://www.parmapse.com/rcitem.asp?n=12802

[Got Speed]

Thanks

[banditwing]

Ive got both the rtr pipe and the reg kit pipe, I would assume the kit pipe is better, but it has the rubber stinger?

-Thanks

[TC3_racer_14]

The kit pipe is better.

[T/Losi]

I am getting a XXX-NT RTR SPORT.
Does anyone know if there is a motor savers air filter available for it.
What is its durability like

Cheers

[banditwing]

I think any motor savers filter for .12-.15 should work:confused:

The sport is a good truck, although i didn't like the engine that much. If you can, i would suggest the kit for only $135 at ultimatehobbies.com

[rccarman5]

yes of course, but you will need a motor, radio, servos, 50 oz, at least for steering, gas, batterys, glow igniter, glue, fuel bottle, etc


my total has been about 350, that includes an engien, which i got for 24 dollars. teh xtm. ooo and if it's not pull start, you will need a starter box.

[TheLaxPlayer]

I too was planning on the rtr, but 135 is a great deal. Would this
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=JRT2121-27 be all the electronics i would need? What else if any electronics? Thanks

[rccarman5]

yes that is all the electronics. but dont forget the enigen, another 100 dollar AT LEAST!! so it can get quite expensive. i'm running a hitec lynx FM and it's just fine. FM couldn't get any better in nitro racing. also u wil need gas, glow plugs, wrenches, glue, and it all adds up. i spent 70 bux just on gas, engine, plugs, wrenches, bottles. thats when teh engien was 24 dollars

[banditwing]

Where did you get an engine for $25?

[TC3_racer_14]

do you guys know where the cheapest place is to buy a xxx-nt sport? all the places I have checked are selliign the xxx-nt sport for 339.99 plus tax. Do you know of any places that sell them for like 310.00 or less? thanks for the help.

[BlueBlaster01]

EBAY! I picked up mine for $300, shipped; with the buy it now option. There are some on there that have very low prices! I think I saw one for $299...

[rccarman5]

my xtm was on sale for 24.95 at hobby people. for thanksgiving. was the second one tehe waiting for the engien.

[rccarman5]

i have encountered a new problem, i wanted to install my xtm.15 engine, with rotary carb, non pull and when i try to install it, the idle screw seems to intefere with the tranny brace or engine brace, the metal thing? what should i do and has anyone encountered this problem? if so what did u do. remmeber this is a non pull start.

[dkj-M3]

use a dremel & grind part of the tranny brace away, or loosen the carb & rotate the carb a little, so that the idle screw isn't touching the tranny brace.

I remember seeing a tranny brace with the notch already dremeled away, maybe it was the rtr sport, or an after market brace, but I can't remember.

[rccarman5]

i didnt' want to cut anything, is it possible that i can place washers under the mount?

[dkj-M3]

yep, that should work, but then the flywheel might not be low enough, for the starter wheel.

[rccarman5]

thats a good point. anyone else, waht did u guy have to do so ur idle screw cleared?

[kcobra]

While it is not a must, I would strongly suggest you get an FM radio for nitro cars. Less interference than AM systems. I believe the Airtronics MX3 is about $130 with 2 servos.

[dkj-M3]

I agree, if you plan on racing, especially if it's indoor, don't get an AM radio. I race at 2 indoor tracks & guys with the am radios always have glitching problems.

[rccarman5]

i have the fm lynx for 70 bux, u can get a pretty nice radio

[Got Speed]

rccarman5- My .12CV-R almost doesn't clear it. I think your best bet is to rotate the carb a little bit.

[slodsm]

My carb is also rotated slightly on my CVR

[RCRACER2471]

Are HPI wheels compatible with Losi and also is there a mod of converting the 2wd in 4wd?

[banditwing]

My Rtr brace is slightly ground from the factory. You could do that, but as others said I think rotating the carb might be easier.

[Philly's Finest]

no there is no mod to go from 2wd to 4wd. if you need 4wd then get a hpi nmt or a monster truck. no hpi wheels will not fit directly on losi axels. you would need to buy adaptors & a set of new axels for the front to make hpi wheels fit.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by RCRACER2471
Are HPI wheels compatible with Losi and also is there a mod of converting the 2wd in 4wd?

HPI makes losi wheels(I think) but the wheels made for HPI vehicles arn't compatable.

There is pretty much no way you can turn a XXXN-T into 4wd. You wouldn't have anything left of a XXXN-T by the time you were done hardly.

You would have to move the fuel tank, servo, reposition the engine, reposition the throttle servo, custom upper deck, get a new manifold, custom front bulkhead, shock tower, arms, tranny, new steering design, redesign the rear tranny and make a center tranny, ect. It's a good idea, but by the time you did all that you would have $100s into modifying it and have a truck that weighs a ton and has a very high CG.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Philly's Finest
no there is no mod to go from 2wd to 4wd. if you need 4wd then get a hpi nmt or a monster truck. no hpi wheels will not fit directly on losi axels. you would need to buy adaptors & a set of new axels for the front to make hpi wheels fit.

Didn't see your post. :( :o :p :cool:

[RCRACER2471]

So u can only use losi wheels for the sport RTR?

[rccarman5]

dont rpm rims work?

[rccarman5]

are teh dynamite starter boxes any good? will they do the job adn can a gel cell be included in it?

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

I've had 2 Dynamite 5610's for use with (2) XXX-NT's and a XXX-NT Sport for 2 years with no complaints so far.

7.2 ah gel cell batteries fit snugly.....


G

[rccarman5]

why do u have two? can't u just use one for both cars?

[rccarman5]

also, what is their web site? thanks. i dont know if i should get a ofna or dynamite. just dynamite is cheaper, but i want to know if it'lll last. i was thinking of a ofna with the 12v high torque motors. that thing can turn over anything!. so....

[busades]

comon i want to see some xxx-nt s in this form, i will post mine when i get my o.s.

[rccarman5]

lol!!!

[kcobra]

I highly recommend the Ofna 1/10th scale box. I have had one for a few years now and it has never given me any trouble. I have the one with the dual motors. I always use my 30amp PS with is or a gel-cell and it is plenty powerfull for small-block engines. I even broke in a Novarossi .21 on it, although it was a strain for the box. I think the main problem people have with the dual motor boxes is they use dual 7.2v battery packs, which don't last long enough and people end up blaming the box/motors.

[slodsm]

You are right, they don't last near as long but I prefer a stick pack to a gel cell, just for the added volts. 12 vs 14.4 (closer to 15.2 with a good peak charger) will spina motor easier to me. I only crank mine on race days which is about 7 times total during the day and they last me fine lol. For a basher that plays a lot though, I can see where the problem would be.

[dkj-M3]

get the ofna, with a gel cell

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by rccarman5
dont rpm rims work?

I think RPM makes rims made for the XXXN-T you just have to make sure that is what it is for before buying it.

I had a Dynamite Ready Start it wasn't very adjustable or powerful so I sold it on ebay. The Ready start is alot better in terms of adjustability and can do pretty good with XXXN-Ts from what I hear but isn't powerful enough to break-in new high compression engines or .21s.( don't know though Ive never owned one it's just what Ive heard)

The Ofna dual motor boxs are pretty much the same as the Ready Start. The single motor boxs though have plenty of power to start just about anything. They don't strain or have alot of trouble starting higher compression engine like some dual motor boxs do. The ofna pink box is ideal for the XXXN-T being so narrow too even with the single 750 motor.

I havn't used my stick packs yet with my starter box. How long will they last? Ive been using a 24 ah battery that needs charging about every 2-3 months but I want to try the stick packs for the convenience if they will get well through the race night?

[bogz]

Has anyone set up their XXX-NT for running parking lot tracks or flat tracks?

I would think it wouldn't be that hard to do, but was curious if anyone else has done it.

I know that it isn't going to have the performance as a true street car, but I also think that it would be good fun (and less chance to break stuff :) )

I saw a picture of a guy that had his set up for dirt flat track, and it was pretty sweet...

Anyone else have pictures or setups?

Thanks.

[slodsm]

I use the el cheapo Duratrash 1500 sport packs on mine and I can get thorugh two race days with no problem if I have to. I have four packs though and peak them all the night before race day. I have never had to change, just have them in case.

[Got Speed]

Good Ive got two of those 1500 mah 7.2V made in mexico cheapy batterys to put in it. lol Ill have my other battery just in case though.

[rccarman5]

will the pink box work for my xxxnt? i'm just bashing around so... i like that heavy duty torqy motor.

[Got Speed]

yes it is ideal for the XXXN-T.

I think I saw a sale someone posted on here about a week ago with one for about $80. Or you can look at eba y.

[rccarman5]

ya i'm looking at ebay. i want the high torque motor. also, they have one but without battery or charger, where can i find a 12v gell cell and charger other than my lhs which is a little far from me?

[rccarman5]

also, were u talking about :


http://ofna.com/starters.html


teh pink one? that says it's for onroad.

[rccarman5]

wat are all the sizes i will need for my xxxnt? for teh chassis, engien, etc. thanks.

[pooldoc101]

How many pounds of torque and speed do you recomend for my steering servo,,,throttke?

[slodsm]

doc, a decetn servo at a decent price is a Hitec 605 BB. It makes 91 oz in at .13 seconds. I am currently using a Futaba 9402 that makes 111 oz in at .10 sec. WOW that thing is fast. The Hitec is enough to yank oit around for about 30 bucks but holy crap for 90 people are not kidding. You get what you pay for.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by pooldoc101
How many pounds of torque and speed do you recomend for my steering servo,,,throttke?

I would recomend something with 90 oz/in of torque or more. I am using the hitec 645mg with 133 oz/in torque .16 transit time. Works great for racing. You can get if for about $45.

rccarman5- Yea, that's the one. lol I don't know why it says onroad though!? :confused:

[rccarman5]

heck tats only for racing. but bashing around, a 25 bux servo will be plentiful.. to steer a tmaxx, u will need about 90 so... u see how much more torque u will have.

[rccarman5]

o and got speed:

my uncle said he would let me borrow his box becasue he rarly runs his car. he has a pink one too but for 8th scale, so i'll have to adjust it.

[Colt M4]

Anybody what are some cheap ways to make my XXX-NT go faster?

[Got Speed]

rccarman5- The least you can get away with is a standard servo. They are weak, slow, and strip the plastic gears easily if you hit something with the front wheels even with the servo saver. The plastic isn't that strong. Several hits and it will break. There is a $25 servo that has 133 oz/in of torque it is the Cirrus CS-60 I think. I have one but it is REALLY REALLY slow(slower than a standard servo). It is bigger than other servos too so I don't think it will fit. The 625 version of the hitec servo I mentioned has 90 oz/in torque but it is faster(not sure how much). The torque is more important for offroad. The difference in torque will probably be just as fast as the other one because it can handle more load.

Nice starter box I think you will like it.:)

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Colt M4
Anybody what are some cheap ways to make my XXX-NT go faster?

Better engine. Taller gearing. You run to tall of a gearing for what you do with it you will burn up your engine though.

[pooldoc101]

On a xxxnt, what voltage does the electric sytem run on, and if its 4.8, can you run it at 6volts?

[rccarman5]

6 volts or 4.8. when it says 4.8, thats wen u want to use rechargable AA's on ur 4 cell holder. but thats a bad idea. always run a rechargble 5 cell AA to achive teh 6 volts. rechargeables have lower voltage. 1.2 for a AA, 1.5 for alkaline AA

[rccarman5]

for you guys who have ur engines carb run low enough where the idle screw hits the engine brace::::


how did u guys setup ur throttle linkage? did u go under the servo horn, considering the lowered carb? becasue tahts what i did. so i wondering if anyone did this. and the brake linkage goes form on top. u just need to switch the order. i'm running an xtm .15. if anyone runs tat enigen with ROTARY CARB let me know. thanks

the reson y i caped rotary carb was because forgot to mention;)




o and if u run something like this ^^^^^ plese im me, i would liek to talk with you thanks.

AIM = radiocontrolhead

[Racin Rev]

pooldoc101

Regular batteries run at 1.25 volts when they are new. This applies to alkaline and regular. The alkaline batteries give you a little more run time before replacement, but cost more. The problem with regular batteries is that:
1 people tend to run them until they quit because they cannot be recharged. If this is done performance suffers as well as the possibility of a run away from a dead battery.
2 While they start out with good voltage the voltage drops consistently as the battery is used causing a loss in performance.
3 this gets expensive in a hurry.

The better way to go would be to buy a hump pack with 5 cells at 1.2 volts per (NiMH or NiCad, makes no difference). They have greater capacity than a regular battery, their voltage holds more consistently until they are almost completely drained, and they can be recharged countless times and always are fresh when you get to the track (if you remember to charge them).

Five regular batteries would give you 6.25 volts initially (though most people using reg. batteries only run 4 batteries @ 5 volts).

Five hump pack batteries would give you a consistent 6 volts.

I hope that helps :)

oh yes, you should be able to run 6 volts no problem.

[kcobra]

Hmm. I believe you are wrong. Alkaline's and heavy duty AA's are 1.5v, NOT 1.25. While I have never stuck a voltmeter on an alkaline AA to confirm this, the packaging on them clearly says 1.5v.

[rccarman5]

kobra, u are correct. as i was from the beginning. read my post.

[Racin Rev]

OOPS! that's right, what was I thinking! :) Oh well the rest of the info is correct.

[Got Speed]

If you can get the NiMhs get them. They don't build memory like NiCads, they keep up almost new performance untill about 5 minutes before they need charged. Most NiMhs are higher capacity too.

[pooldoc101]

Thanks for the info guys, where can I get nimh's, and do they take a different charger?

[rccarman5]

Originally posted by rccarman5
for you guys who have ur engines carb run low enough where the idle screw hits the engine brace::::


how did u guys setup ur throttle linkage? did u go under the servo horn, considering the lowered carb? becasue tahts what i did. so i wondering if anyone did this. and the brake linkage goes form on top. u just need to switch the order. i'm running an xtm .15. if anyone runs tat enigen with ROTARY CARB let me know. thanks

the reson y i caped rotary carb was because forgot to mention;)




o and if u run something like this ^^^^^ plese im me, i would liek to talk with you thanks.





can anyone help me out on tat?

AIM = radiocontrolhead

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by pooldoc101
Thanks for the info guys, where can I get nimh's, and do they take a different charger?

Trinity makes some nice preassembled packs. 5 cells will give you more power and speed but will wear you servos and reciever faster and be heavier. I am just running 4 cells. Works fine, not much difference.

rccarman5- I don't run that engine or a rotary carb. But i do find it best to run the linkages under the throttle arm.

[banditwing]

Busades, to continue on your idea...

I had a sport xnt (now stripped down for spare parts) and just bought myself a new xxx-nt (standard). So now I've got two fuel tanks! how about putting two fuel tanks on the xnt. This would be for around the house extended driving, but when i go to race I'd take the second tank off and use the stock configuration. About the only way I could see it working would be to put one fueltank in the stock location, and then the other ontop of the chassis brace, ontop of the servo. Its a perfect fit (almost), and I could tie it down with some serov tape or zipties. So what do you think? Also, how would I go about routing the fuel tubing, so that it would work the right way? Is there anything else I would need to do (other than maybe richening up the engine).

What do you think? Sounds hack? I bet it does :D

-Thanks

[rcdestroyer]

Anyone have any setup ideas to have better steerin through tight sections?¿

[rccarman5]

Originally posted by rcdestroyer
Anyone have any setup ideas to have better steerin through tight sections?¿


their website.

[Tstalion79]

RCDESTROYER- My track requires just that. Dial in a degree of toe out in the front (not toe in, make it so that the wheels are actually pointing outward. This will make it a tad bit less stable on the straightaway, but it will have a helluva lot more turn in and it will potentially go through turns faster. Also put some heavier weight oil in the rear.

[mids1999]

Could someone please help me with the correct part number for the exhaust manafold for a Trinity Picco .12 with the picco style side exhaust.
I am looking one made by losi.

Thanks
Mike

Btw: for some reason my hg parts have not shipped yet so no info so far on the discounted titanium balls yet.

[BIGBADBOWTIE]

Originally posted by pooldoc101
Thanks for the info guys, where can I get nimh's, and do they take a different charger?



You can also buy a rechargable alkaline battery. I bought 16 Grandcell batteries off of ebay for 24 dollars. Thats enuff to run my radio and car and allways have extra batteries charged. IMO its the only way to go.

Ray

PS that 16 batteries also came with 2 - 4 cell chargers.

[Racin Rev]

I used to use those rechargable alkaline when I first got into RC, and will not use them again. This is because:
1 They have a very short shelf life. I had a bunch of them and used them very little and in two years they were useless. they would neithere retain nor take a charge. I have had to throw every one out.
2 If you deep cycle them they will die (as in, throw them away) quickly. They are best used only slightly and then recharged right away.
3 The more they are recharged the less energy they store. This is noticable rather quickly.
4 Unless you get a deal on ebay they are not cheap. for a little more you can get a legitimate rechargable battery which will last a long time.

The caviot to this is that 16 batteries for $24 is a real good deal if you can find it.

Pooldoc, a special charger is required for NiCad NiMh batteries. The batteries are permenently attatched and to charge them you plug the power plug into the charger. NitroHouse.com usually carries battery packs for $19.95 (The cheapest I have found) or $24.95 with the charger.

[Crashbot2001]

Originally posted by Tstalion79
RCDESTROYER- My track requires just that. Dial in a degree of toe out in the front (not toe in, make it so that the wheels are actually pointing outward. This will make it a tad bit less stable on the straightaway, but it will have a helluva lot more turn in and it will potentially go through turns faster. Also put some heavier weight oil in the rear.

I have to do the same at my track. Some folks have taken to run step pins up front to get the front end to turn, but my small racing budget only allows for changes in settings, not tires.. lol.. I little toe-out goes a LONG way in making it turn...

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Racin Rev
I used to use those rechargable alkaline when I first got into RC, and will not use them again. This is because:
1 They have a very short shelf life. I had a bunch of them and used them very little and in two years they were useless. they would neithere retain nor take a charge. I have had to throw every one out.
2 If you deep cycle them they will die (as in, throw them away) quickly. They are best used only slightly and then recharged right away.
3 The more they are recharged the less energy they store. This is noticable rather quickly.
4 Unless you get a deal on ebay they are not cheap. for a little more you can get a legitimate rechargable battery which will last a long time.

The caviot to this is that 16 batteries for $24 is a real good deal if you can find it.

Pooldoc, a special charger is required for NiCad NiMh batteries. The batteries are permenently attatched and to charge them you plug the power plug into the charger. NitroHouse.com usually carries battery packs for $19.95 (The cheapest I have found) or $24.95 with the charger.

A special charger is not needed. Just buy the correct plug, and get a charger with the correct charge rate. IE a 4.8V battery for receiver will work with a 6V charger that charges at 800mah or so for a fast charge(do not let them sit for very long or else they will explode, the cheapo wall chargers don't cut off when the batt is fully charged) or 300mah for a 4 hour charge. The 1.2V NiCads I bought for my transmitter would go dead very fast but they worked great for my micro :confused: I am now using 8 NiCads I took out of a battery pack that came with my Hitec Flash 4 radio(plane radio). The individual nicads work fine with the receiver though. I am using the Futaba preassembled and shrink wrapped 4 cell pack for $15 at tower hobbies.

Use NiCads if you can.

[slodsm]

What kind of toe out settings are you racers using on the front of your trucks for sandy to blue groove tracks? And what type of gauge? and also for the rear toe in as well.

[BIGBADBOWTIE]

I have had mine all summer. I have charged them 30-40 times and they still last (in tha car) all weekend. I have seen them on ebay for as cheap as 9.99 for 8 batteries and a charger. How can you go wrong with that. Even if they only last a year. Thats DIRT cheap.

I will continue to buy them off ebay . I have had GREAT luck.

I was just passing on some info.

Ray

[pooldoc101]

MY transmitter already has rechargeable batterys[lynx3-d] they came with it and a charger too. What i'm asking about is receiver batterys,i have an xxxnt with a 4 battery pack[standard] tired of buying alkylines. What i want to know is do i need 4 batterys or 5 if i go to a rechargeable assembled pack?I see servos are rated for 2 voltages[4.8 and6] and the times and torgues for 6 are always better, what should i do?

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by pooldoc101
MY transmitter already has rechargeable batterys[lynx3-d] they came with it and a charger too. What i'm asking about is receiver batterys,i have an xxxnt with a 4 battery pack[standard] tired of buying alkylines. What i want to know is do i need 4 batterys or 5 if i go to a rechargeable assembled pack?I see servos are rated for 2 voltages[4.8 and6] and the times and torgues for 6 are always better, what should i do?

You can use either. I use 4. Similar performance to the 6 but it lasts longer and dosn't wear on the servos and receiver so much.

[slodsm]

I use 5. Some people don't seem to notice the difference but I do, or at least in my head I do. I have not worn out a servo using 6 volt packs yet and I should have stock in trinity for as many as I have had. Every time I buy a new car, I get one of those as quick and I get a fuel filter. rechargeable batteries seem to be the best investment I make into RC.

[RCRACER2471]

What do u think about the Megatech engine on the Sport RTR?? Is it worth it, if not then ill get the kit. What do u think ill probly use the same radio since im not made of money and a new engine. What do you think?

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by RCRACER2471
What do u think about the Megatech engine on the Sport RTR?? Is it worth it, if not then ill get the kit. What do u think ill probly use the same radio since im not made of money and a new engine. What do you think?

The Megatech engine is ok. Ive heard good and bad. 50% bad 50% good. For about the same price you can buy an
O.S. .12CV-R or there are some other high performance engine but they cost more. Which in my opinion is alot better. More power, more RPMs, more reliable, ect.

The radio is comes with is a nice radio but it's only drawback is that it is AM. Not a problem if you arn't racing. You can race with am but it does get a fair amount of interference whereas FM gets practicly none. It also depends on your budget.

[jdm3849]

If you were thinking that the Sport RTR comes with a Megatech engine, it does'nt. It comes with a Dynamite Mach .15

I have noticed that it closely resembles the megatech because my friend had one. Both of the carbs even have a "M" ingraced into them. The only difference by looking at a glance is that the heat sink head has some silver on it (megatech). But both heads have the same design.

[slodsm]

I am pretty sure that the Mach .15 engine is not a Megatech. I have heard that rumor but I bought a RTR truck for my wife and it is a dynamite motor. Internals are not like a M motor and the case is different as well. Very similar to a Dynamite .12 SPD though. And it is a decent running little motor for a while. I ran it once in a race when my picco in my truck was down and I was able to keep up. It was good for 2nd in the B main with stock tires, gears and servos. I have since converted it to all graphite and a CVR since she lost interest so I could have two trucks exactly the same in case one breaks I don't have to drive something unfamiliar from a heat to a main.

[rccarman5]

does anyone have tips on how to install the universals. like how to put those pins in their joints easier than messing it up like i did the first time. i ordered new parts and it has arrived, just how do u guys install them. thanks.

[dkj-M3]

did you use the little flat wrench that came with the kit. just put one of the pins in the hole, lay the wrench against the other side & push up, like it says in the manual. as you push it up & into the hole, the side should flex until it's in the groove that leads to the hole. & pop its in.

hope this helps.

[slodsm]

Are you guys referring to stock universals? That does not sound like my MIP shinies.

[rccarman5]

no i mean putting the pin in the universal joint in the axle, i'm talking aobu the step before the wrench thing

[dkj-M3]

can't help you, but I buy the ones that are already put together.

[Philly's Finest]

Originally posted by bogz
Has anyone set up their XXX-NT for running parking lot tracks or flat tracks?

i have only run my truck street and will have to when i begin racing this spring because we run in the parking lot out back of the shop. i haven't played around with different wt oils yet but i lower the truck & put the neon yellow springs up front.

right now my truck is out of comission sadly. i had stripped it down to clean it and apon reassembly i stripped my servo. i have switched radios so i'll just through some standard futaba's in there til race time.

[WHITESTER1]

I have searched the Losi website, and came to the conclusion, that either I am a complete idiot and cannot use the search feature, or the search doesn't work properly!!!!

So with saying that, can someone please give me the part # for the plastic 0 degree rear hubs.

Thanks in advance

[BlueBlaster01]

...Is there anyway possible to polish the chassis to a mirror shine? I know its aluminum, but is the sport rtr chassis anodized clear? Or what? I tried, it's not really working...I like shiney objects, I couldn't resist trying while I have it stripped down... Thanks

[dkj-M3]

A-4125 Front spindles, carriers & rear hubs

[WHITESTER1]

Yo d,
Those are the 0 degree? The stock plastic hubs are 1 degree. You gave me the 0 degrees right?

[busades]

whats the best way to lower a xx-nt for street racing:rolleyes: anyone got some photos of there street racing xxx-nt s

[Locus]

Just got my new graphite rear shock tower this week and was all read to set it up. I was screwing in the rod ends and the damn ball snapped off the end. Now I need to find out a way to get the broken off screw part out of the hole, any suggestions?

[rccarman5]

locus, tap it. take those reversable screw extractors. but make sure u get a strong one. those are pretty touch to get out. or.. if u have a rotary tool, drill a small hole in the center adn try to pry it off or somehting. thats why titaniums are good here.



also, if anyone knows what servo comes stock with the JR ProPo R-1 radio, i woul appricieate it. cant find it anywhere. and waht is it's ratings, torque adn speed. are those good servos. the one that ocmes with the top of the line Jr radios. thanks.

[BlueBlaster01]

You could try to find a small drill bit, thats smaller then the hole in the shock tower and drill it out....

[cabbynate]

0dg rear hubs= # A2228. ;)

[WHITESTER1]

Thanks!

[rcdestroyer]

Originally posted by BlueBlaster01
...Is there anyway possible to polish the chassis to a mirror shine? I know its aluminum, but is the sport rtr chassis anodized clear? Or what? I tried, it's not really working...I like shiney objects, I couldn't resist trying while I have it stripped down... Thanks

i polished my chassis to a mirrow finish with Mothers Aluminum Polish. just had to rub with the polish and buff it out for about 20 min.

[cabbynate]

No pro-blam-o!!!!http://www.handykult.de/plaudersmilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[dkj-M3]

those should be the 0* hubs but it does come with the other parts. the stock kit comes with the 0* hubs, but the drake kit comes with the 1* hubs.

but hey Whitester you should try & make it down before the Champs race. The new layout is off the chain. It's crazy lookin' but fun as a jet powered go-kart to run on.


\/

[Locus]

RCCARMAN5 - Thanks for the feedback. Do you or anyone else know where I can find titanium Rod Ends? Also would like to find a possible titanium screw set for my xxx-nt, any suggestions??

[purplerides]

whew haven't been on here in a while there's like 10 new pages , i clanced over them real quick.

rccarman5 on some motors you have to grind at little on the trans brace , i know i had to to fit the O.S. TR in , i tried turning the carb. so it wouldn't hit but it still hit some so i grinded the trans. brace , you want to grind it so it doesn't rub , but not to much as to weaken it more then necessary.

[pooldoc101]

What's the easiest way to get overspray off a lexan body?

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by rcdestroyer
i polished my chassis to a mirrow finish with Mothers Aluminum Polish. just had to rub with the polish and buff it out for about 20 min.

How well does it hold its shine? I want to polish some stuff on my GS Storm but none of the other polish I have tried work very well.

Locus- There isn't such a thing as a titanium rod end unless you get it made custom. Your better off without them because then you will break titanium pivot balls, bolts or whatever your using off. Plus it would put alot of stress on the turnbuckles even the Titanium.

[rcdestroyer]

i polished the chassis about a month ago, i just clean it with windex, it is just as shiny as it was the day i polished it.

[OutKast]

I'm looking into buying a new Tuned pipe and header coupler etc.. and cannot find any of information on which would be best. i have a mach .15 engine with pull start. and am looking for somthing with a power increase. and also for looks. my old lexan body cut my stinger almost in half before i noticed, and i think its time to replace the pipe. which would be best? thanks.:confused:

[Scrad]

I always found that nitro took off overspray very well. Also brake fluid works good on paint that has been dry for a very long time.

[mids1999]

rccarman5 The R1 Doesnt come with a servo.
You just get the radio, reciever, and 2 battery holders
One for the transmitter and one for the reciever.

I have had that radio for 3 years and love it.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by OutKast
I'm looking into buying a new Tuned pipe and header coupler etc.. and cannot find any of information on which would be best. i have a mach .15 engine with pull start. and am looking for somthing with a power increase. and also for looks. my old lexan body cut my stinger almost in half before i noticed, and i think its time to replace the pipe. which would be best? thanks.:confused:

If youre racing the drake pipe is very good so is the FT AE pipe. lol they are almost the same but the drake pipe is hard anodized. Besides who would want anything AE on their losi. lol :p :cool: But if you arn't racing the CVEC pipes are awesome. To keep the body from damaging the pipe glue some fuel tubing on the body in that area.

[OutKast]

I was looking into the drake tuned pipe, and header. But will it work well with a .15 engine? and the Mach .15 is a side exaust correct? With the Drake Pipe and Header, would i get much of a performance increase over my stock Tuned pipe and Header? thanks again.;) P.S. i do race....but just for fun...:D

[WHITESTER1]

Originally posted by dkj-M3
those should be the 0* hubs but it does come with the other parts. the stock kit comes with the 0* hubs, but the drake kit comes with the 1* hubs.

but hey Whitester you should try & make it down before the Champs race. The new layout is off the chain. It's crazy lookin' but fun as a jet powered go-kart to run on.


\/

I'll be down in January, for the warm-up race. That is great to hear about the new layout. I'm sure it is sweet. I'm preparing all my equipment now. I'm rolling down with quite a few people.

[gvnick]

Here is a question guys. Can I put a short crank engine (cut for RC10GT) into a XXXNT? If so does it take the normal XXXNT clutch setup or do I need something else.

[RCRACER2471]

Hey Everyone, Just ordered a Losi XNT last night at Ultimate Hobbies. The ordering process didnt look too secure. Has any one else ordered from here??? Or have ne problems?

[rccarman5]

no their site is not secure so i would have just called them. also.


does anyone know all the sizes i will need for my xxxnt? r they metric or inch? thanks.

[banditwing]

Yeah, I ordered over the phone. It took about 2 weeks to get here, and was $12 shipping. But the price on the kit was awsome.

[rccarman5]

i guess thats equivalent to stormer, took exactly 1 week, 7 dollar shipping, and .... so i guess the prices are the same. but... stormer does not have the xxxnt's anymore. so i was lucky to get my hands on one from them.

[purplerides]

gvnick - with the Losi you can use either a short crank or a long(standard) crank motor , with all of the stock Losi hardware , clutchnut , clutch , clutchbell etc. , as long as it isn't a SG shaft motor your good to go.