Team Losi XXXNT forum 4.0

[Locus]

Everyone got the titanim turnbuckle/hinge pin kit and wanted to check with everyone real quick on a few items.....
1) These will work with my plastic rod ends i currently have on the truck?
2) Any info on how to go about replacing the old one? They seem to be on very tight......any suggestions from experience in changing out turnbuckles?

-

Got Speed.... i just got the losi product list this week and they do make a titanium ball stud with hex (part #'s a-9945, a-9946 & a-9947)...just a fyi.

Thanks!

[rccarman5]

wats the point of a titanium bumper, the point is to absorb hit, not make a shock to the whole car. plastic is flexable, titanium is to a point.

[rccarman5]

i have a kwik klip igniter and i was wondering how long can i charge it for. it has a sayno 1700mah battery in. thank.s . i'm thinking overnight would be fine? i borrowed the starter from my uncle thinking it had some juice, idiot me, and tried to crank over my brand new xtm engine. it fired for the first 2 seconds because of the left over juice form teh battery, then i kept trying for the next 20 minutes. i tested it on my new plug, but i thought it burnt out. but i didn't check it on the new one.

[OutKast]

Originally posted by rccarman5
wats the point of a titanium bumper, the point is to absorb hit, not make a shock to the whole car. plastic is flexable, titanium is to a point.

I said an Aluminum bumper. One that would be more durable then the flimsy plastic one Losi makes. Im not talking about a big wide bumper like a T-maxx...that covers the whole front of the truck. just the skid plate type like on the NT, wiht maybe a small rail for protection? one that would take a little more abuse and protect my graphite suspension arms? does anyone know if such a product is made? if not i might just have to fabricate a few...lol

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by OutKast
I said an Aluminum bumper. One that would be more durable then the flimsy plastic one Losi makes. Im not talking about a big wide bumper like a T-maxx...that covers the whole front of the truck. just the skid plate type like on the NT, wiht maybe a small rail for protection? one that would take a little more abuse and protect my graphite suspension arms? does anyone know if such a product is made? if not i might just have to fabricate a few...lol

I saw someone at the track the other day with one. I didn't ask him where he got it but I would be intrested in one too. Mine gets scraped, cracked, ect pretty easily. Then again I would be intrested in the RPM one just as much because they gauruntee there's and it provides more protection(not many crashes are head-on but it is still some added protection).

rccarman5-It really dosn't take much, if any shock from the rest of the truck. Your suspension arms, carriers, and spindles will take the shock first because the wheels stick out much farther than the bumper. I leave my glow igniter on all night. If it is around 150mah charge it's fine.

Locus- Thanks I may try them. Right now I am using captured T-Maxx ends on the inside but because of that I need to run the inside setting on the rear axel carrier and the outside on the tower because of the length difference of the stock ball cup and captured end.

For anyone that owns trinity's rear axel carriers, how do you like them? I am thinking about getting a pair because I seem to get hit or hit something with my rear wheels more than with anything else. How well do they hold up? Any bending? Problems with broken ball studs?

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Got Speed
I saw someone at the track the other day with one. I didn't ask him where he got it but I would be intrested in one too. Mine gets scraped, cracked, ect pretty easily. Then again I would be intrested in the RPM one just as much because they gauruntee there's and it provides more protection(not many crashes are head-on but it is still some added protection).

rccarman5-It really dosn't take much, if any shock from the rest of the truck. Your suspension arms, carriers, and spindles will take the shock first because the wheels stick out much farther than the bumper. I leave my glow igniter on all night. If it is around 150mah charge it's fine.

Locus- Thanks I may try them. Right now I am using captured T-Maxx ends on the inside but because of that I need to run the inside setting on the rear axel carrier and the outside on the tower because of the length difference of the stock ball cup and captured end.

For anyone that owns trinity's rear axel carriers, how do you like them? I am thinking about getting a pair because I seem to get hit or hit something with my rear wheels more than with anything else. How well do they hold up? Any bending? Problems with broken ball studs?

Hmm, has anyone modified an aluminum bumper/skid and an RPM bumper to work together? Without being hack. lol :p

[kcobra]

Originally posted by grimlock3000
if i went with the 10c slide carb to save myself the trouble and weakening of my chassis brace, how much different would the engine perform? if is worth the mod to stick with the 10e rotary?

thanks to the person who told me about the xxx nt wide bumper from rpm. i an definitely going to pick that up.

Most people seem to say the slide carbs are to punchy for 2wd truck. They say it like an on off switch on the throttle instead of a smooth power band.

With that said, I will be going with the slide carb for next season's racing. I am a 1/8th scale guy, so I am used to the slide carbs in the .21's.

[bogz]

I've hit some things straight on, and my big RPM bumper takes the beating without breaking (or without breaking anything else)...

That being said, this bumper also doubles as an EXCELLENT carry handle for the truck :)

[dkj-M3]

Got speed- I used to run the trinity hubs until I had a bad crash, the ball stud came up out the aluminum & stripped the hub threads, I use the stock plastic ones now, with no problems, but I really don't crash that much. You tried the parma captured ends, they are strong & the threads are as long as the stock ball cups.

Don't make an aluminum bumper, if your tearing up the plastic one, it will tear up(bend the aluminum) & tweak your front set-up. I race in southwestern & middle Ohio, & there is a guy that makes them out of steel. a lot of my friends have them, they work well, & they wrap up & over the front bulk head, so no digging in. The only thing is they are not legal for big races, only club races.

Slide carbs are ok, but the Novarossi slide carbs come with a .21 size opening at the lip, which I think just makes them inconsistent on the dirt especially loose dirt.

[igozoom]

Guys, I need some help on some set up ideas.

Raced last night and my Drake was horrible. My driving was worse !

We run on a clay track with a lot of sand in the mix. As racing progresses, the sand separates from the mix and rises to the surface of the clay which is blue groove in many places. Also have a lot of pot holes. Normally, we wet the track to stay hooked up and run razor ribs and Step pins.

Yesterday, we decided to avoid watering and blow the track every other race for qualifiers and before every main. The track was so slippery in some places (like the straight), that I couldn't use more than 30 % throttle (squeezing very slowly), withought throwing the truck sideways down the straight. The Picco was just making too much power in the mid range.

Steps didn't work, studs didn't work. Ifmar pins didn't work. As info, running Drakes standard set up with the exception that I moved front shocks to inner hole at the top.

Front end pushes and back end is loose ! Don't make race sissy electric !

Any thoughts or guidance would be greatly appreciated.

[dkj-M3]

igozoom- here is something to try, I used to run on a track like that during the summer, with the drake set-up & was having the same problems. I never got to try this set-up on that track but it should give you plenty of rear traction, it pushes in the front but not as much as the drake setup. Let me know how it works out for you if you decide to try it.

______________Front____________Rear_____Comments
Spring-----------------pink-----------------grey
Piston-----------------black--------------- 56(red)
Oil-------------------- 25--------------------20
Inner Limit------------.120"------------none-----Rear unthread 2 turn
Outer Limit------------none-------------none
Shock Mount Upper------2----------------4
Shock Mount Lower----middle-----------inside
Shims------------------spindle lowered--hubs centered
Ride Height------------arms level-------Rear dog bones level
Sway bar---------------none-------------none
Camber Inner----------2/1 wash---------2
Camber Outer-----------B------------------B
Camber Setting--------(-1)-------------(-.5)
Toe----------------------(+1)-------------(+1 deg. hubs)
Caster/Anti-squat----stock------------2 deg.(stock)
Ackerman/Bump steer--1 wash at spindle
Diff/Drive axle--------Steel outdrives
Tire------------------(S)razor ribs---------(M3)Holeshot T
Foam-------------------Bomb1(Grey)---------Losi Firm
Servo Placement--------Forward
Motor/Gear-------------Novarossi(200*)-----18(always)
Clutch-----------------Stock (Sprung/Trailing)

Notes: Go up in oil wt. & springs if there are big jumps & it bottoms out real bad. Other than that this set-up is real easy to drive. Raising the rear ride height will add more rear traction. You might have to add the stock spring clamps to increase rear ride height.

[Locus]

Originally posted by Locus
Everyone got the titanim turnbuckle/hinge pin kit and wanted to check with everyone real quick on a few items.....
1) These will work with my plastic rod ends i currently have on the truck?
2) Any info on how to go about replacing the old one? They seem to be on very tight......any suggestions from experience in changing out turnbuckles?

-

Got Speed.... i just got the losi product list this week and they do make a titanium ball stud with hex (part #'s a-9945, a-9946 & a-9947)...just a fyi.

Thanks!

Come on now, I know some people out there have put these turnbuckles on their trucks....any advice (tools, etc) on how to take off the old ones and install the new titanium ones.

[OldskoolGT]

Locus,

I would just install new ball cups on your new turnbuckles. I'd also use RPM ball cups instead of Losi since the Losi ones appear to be somewhat brittle

[Got Speed]

grimlock3000- I am using a slide carb. It's great. I like the throttle response. Ive gotten used to it now. Try the slide, if it is just too touchy go back to the rotary.


dkj-M30- Im not really tearing them up. I havn't replaced one yet. I just notice that it get scraped up and is fairly brittle. I probably won't get a metal one or RPM bumper because of the weight.
The MF XXX-T has a red bumper, is there a blue bumper that is made?

Ill try a set of the parma ends if I can't find racer's edge ones anywhere(because of the color, lol).

Locus-Put a screwdriver or something behind the ball cup to pop it off with. You will need to buy the lunsford size ball cups because the lunsfords are larger diameter. RPM makes some. They make them in several different colors and they have a gaurentee on them that they won't break. If so they will replace them.

[jdm3849]

The blue front bumper for the XXX kinwald edition buggy will fit on the NT.

BTW the RPM bumper does not weigh that much, it is better at the track because if you land frot first it will bounce back because its so big and you will keep on going. With the stock one its seemed to dig into the ground and immeadiately stop the truck. Making it flip sometimes. It also works as a good pushbar for all those slow GT's. ;)

On my FT T3 I have lunsford turnbuckles and ball studs. They are attatched to RPM yellow ballcups.

I have broke RPM's mini bumper for the T3, any they would'nt replace it because they said it had been highly modidfied from it's origional state. LOL I did'nt do a thing to it.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by jdm3849
The blue front bumper for the XXX kinwald edition buggy will fit on the NT.

BTW the RPM bumper does not weigh that much, it is better at the track because if you land frot first it will bounce back because its so big and you will keep on going. With the stock one its seemed to dig into the ground and immeadiately stop the truck. Making it flip sometimes. It also works as a good pushbar for all those slow GT's. ;)

On my FT T3 I have lunsford turnbuckles and ball studs. They are attatched to RPM yellow ballcups.

I have broke RPM's mini bumper for the T3, any they would'nt replace it because they said it had been highly modidfied from it's origional state. LOL I did'nt do a thing to it.

I thought about the XXX bumper but I thought it would be too small. Are you sure it is the same size? If so great. lol

RPM dosn't make dyeable or colored bumpers do they?

[jdm3849]

RPM's mini bumper (which i had) comes in yellow,blue,black, and maybe purple but i don't think so.

The kinwald bumper is the same size as the stock NT one. All the XXX series cars have the same front end (bulkehad,arms,etc.) so it has to be the same size to make it fit.

[OutKast]

Hey, does anyone know if the Adam Drake header is available for a pull start? or just the non-pull start engine? and im looking into the Drake tuned pipe? will this work well with the Mach .15? thanks

[racer13]

does any one know the stock carb setting for the xxxnt sport mach .15?

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by OutKast
Hey, does anyone know if the Adam Drake header is available for a pull start? or just the non-pull start engine? and im looking into the Drake tuned pipe? will this work well with the Mach .15? thanks

There is a drake header on losis web site for a pull start engine. Yes the drake pipe will work well with the Mach .15. I don't know if there is any performance differences in the sport or drake pipe though.

jdm3849- Ok, does it throw the ballance off if you add it?

[rccarman5]

the drake manifold is intended for non pull. it sits lower is stead of high to clear the pull start. that header and pipe assembly is strictly for racing. the header sits lower to lowr it's overall CG. i have a kit xxxnt and i do not like the header since i have a non pull engine. if u look at it from the side, the header is al the way up wile at the coupling, it is bent. it looks funny so i might think on the drake manifold.

[rccarman5]

where can i find a nice servo with at least 70 oz-in of torque and at least .15 transit time for under 40 bux? or teh cheapest place possible

[Racin Rev]

add about ten bucks and you can have a high tec digital with metal gears and better numbers than you listed.

[gvnick]

Originally posted by Racin Rev
add about ten bucks and you can have a high tec digital with metal gears and better numbers than you listed.
I want it. You can email me at gvrick@cox.net

[rccarman5]

really? where. i was actually thinking oc 40 shipped

[banditwing]

Carb Settings for Mach .15

2.5 turns out on HSP
4 turns out on LSP
1mm open for idle

I think i might have figured out why my engine didn't run (the mach that is) since i just opened up the engine..........

[slodsm]

Originally posted by rccarman5
really? where. i was actually thinking oc 40 shipped Dude, racinrev is talking about brand new from towerhobbies. The Hitec 5625 is like .13 transit and I belive 120 or 130 oz in of tq. More than enough to throw a losi all over the track.

[Racin Rev]

here is a possible link

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUZ77&P=7

[jdm3849]

Got Speed: I never noticed a change in balance on my truck because of the bumper. If anything it will make the truck perform better because it just ricochet's off everything it hits. LOL


rccarman: There is the hitec HS-625MG servo that produces 90oz of torque and .15 transit time for 40 bucks even. You can get it at tower hobbies. I have the 645 version and it has 133oz of torque! good enough for me.

[Got Speed]

jdm3849-K thanks,

rccarman5- I am using the 645MG servo too. It's great no problems. Plenty fast and powerful for racing or bashing.

[winning edge designs]

Be advised, some of the servos we're comparing aren't apples and apples, more like apples and oranges. I've noticed some rate thier servos at 5.0v, some at 6.0v and some even higher. A servo that gives a .13 second (60 degree) transit time and 90 in.oz. of torque at 6.0 volts can't be compared to one that does it at 5.0 volts. I've also seen some rate thier servo throw times at different degrees. Some at 90, some at 60 degrees, etc......Pay close attention when shopping, you usually get what you pay for....Usually....... And even if customer service is outstanding, i'd honestly rather not find out how it is by having the best eqipment available..........,Jim

[Trevor280z]

hey yall, i just got a xxxnt for x-mas.. i love it so far(still buildin) i was screwing in the kick plate and stripped one of the hex nuts... how am i spose to get that out i tried puttin some lock-tite they gave me and lettin the allen wrench sit in there but that didnt do nothin.

[cabbynate]

Trevor280z,
If you have a Dremel tool, use a cut off wheel and cut a grove through the center of the screw. Then use a flat head screw driver that fits the slot you just made to remove the screw.http://www.handykult.de/plaudersmilies.de/happy/xyxthumbs.gif

[TheLaxPlayer]

For Christmas, I received a Losi XXX-NT Adam Drake Edition. I have NO spare pars, or anything r/c related, so I am starting from scratch. I was planning on this engine: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXXA45&P=N
and this radio:
http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...?prod=JRP212175
I know I would also need fuel, marvel myster oil, a glow plug ignitor, and batteries. Is there ANYTHING I am missing? Thanks.

[rccarman5]

wed, i was well aware of those conditions. but it's very important to pay very close attention to how they spec their servos.


and the tools i use is a small low end, idle screw screw driver, a big screwdriver for the top end, glow plug wrench(a must!), paper towels, starter box, gas, igniter, and ur wrenches, that should be about everything.

also, why did u use locktight on plastic? metal to metal contacts are the only connection u will need thread locking component on. especially the engine mounts. and be sure to use the blue stuff, if u use too much of the red, more than a little tick of a drop(and i mean LITTLE tick of a drop) you will have a hard time getting it out(tats for the red locking component)

[rccarman5]

o and after run oil

[Trevor280z]

i meant i put loctite on the head of my screw so i could get some extra grip

[rccarman5]

u idnt' really need to, it will just be easier to thread it in the hole.

[winning edge designs]

trevor, lock tite is made to cause friction between two metals. It gives a gentle(blue anyway) resistance to threads to avoid loosening from vibration. Red loctite is more aggressive for applications not being removed often. Niether will hold a stripped screw. A dremel will need to be used to cut a scredriver style removal point.....Jim

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by TheLaxPlayer
For Christmas, I received a Losi XXX-NT Adam Drake Edition. I have NO spare pars, or anything r/c related, so I am starting from scratch. I was planning on this engine: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXXA45&P=N
and this radio:
http://horizon.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...?prod=JRP212175
I know I would also need fuel, marvel myster oil, a glow plug ignitor, and batteries. Is there ANYTHING I am missing? Thanks.

Sorry your links arn't working. Tell us what engine and radio it is. hehe You got one good Christmas present :p . A fuel bottle, and glow plug wrench, are musts. If the engine is non pull start which is what the AD header only accepts you will need a starter box or bump starter. A good idea is a temp gauge. An onboard one is about $30-$35 an infrared one is about $80.

[grimlock3000]

you can copy and paste the part numbers out of the links into a search to get what the items are. the engine is the os cv-rx .12 with the 10c slide carb. the radio is the jr xr2.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by grimlock3000
you can copy and paste the part numbers out of the links into a search to get what the items are. the engine is the os cv-rx .12 with the 10c slide carb. the radio is the jr xr2.

Thanks

TheLaxPlayer- The .12 CV-RX is a great engine I am using it myself except I am using the non pull start, slide carb version. The Adam Drake Edition header will only work with non-pull start engines. So you will eiter have to get the non pull start version and a bump starter or a starter box(slightly more expensive overall but usually prefered for racing) or you will have to buy a pull start header(slightly cheaper can be a pain when the starter starts to slip usually prefered for bashing).

The JR XR2 is a good radio. Are you racing or bashing? I would asume racing since you have the ADE. If so the JR XR2 has plenty of features and is a nice radio but it's not the best if you plan to race. For bashing it's fine, it's raceable, but a JR XR3 or MX-3 is prefered as a racing budget radio.

[WheelNut]

I got a XXX-NT for christmas! So you guys should be seeing me here quite a bit from now on. :) I also received a parts package, tons of parts!! Its crazy!

So far I am very impressed with this trucks design. Very well thought out, looks much better than my dad's GT. The chassis is great too, 7075 aluminum, very nice. Very stiff. The only problem was that my front bulkhead hingepin brace had no holes in it! That was easy enough for me to fix luckily. Also My diff slips really easily. All the washers are stacked in the same direction. I have the slipper set to the point of where the nut has just over 1 thread showing, like over 4 turns out. I think that I over greased the diff rings and balls. That happened on my T3 and TC3 before, so I'll have to tear that down and check it out, unless you just have to break in the rings or something before the diff really catches.

I'll post some pics of the truck as soon as I finish the body. I'm painting it in the same scheme as the truck on the box, but I'm going to paint the silver area chrome instead. Should look great. :)

What wt. oil do you guys usually run in the front/rear?

PS-I'm going to be running the truck with a O.S. .12 CV-R, a Hitec 625mg steering servo, a standard airtronics servo for throttle/brake, and a MX-3 probably with XXL receiver.

TheLaxPlayer-Also buy a set of good allen drivers! I did not to long ago and the difference is very surprising! You wont strip screws anymore, and you get a incredable amount of grip. I have a set from dynamite. nice, red anodized, replacable tips, and knurled grips aluminum handles. For AE and Losi kits (And anyother standard hardware equiped kits) you will need .050'', 1/16'', 5/64'', and a 3/32''.

Dynamite driver set (http://www.greathobbies.com/frame_index.html)
One more driver size you'll need for the NT (http://www.greathobbies.com/frame_index.html)
btw-Those are Canadian prices

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by WheelNut
I got a XXX-NT for christmas! So you guys should be seeing me here quite a bit from now on. :) I also received a parts package, tons of parts!! Its crazy!

So far I am very impressed with this trucks design. Very well thought out, looks much better than my dad's GT. The chassis is great too, 7075 aluminum, very nice. Very stiff. The only problem was that my front bulkhead hingepin brace had no holes in it! That was easy enough for me to fix luckily. Also My diff slips really easily. All the washers are stacked in the same direction. I have the slipper set to the point of where the nut has just over 1 thread showing, like over 4 turns out. I think that I over greased the diff rings and balls. That happened on my T3 and TC3 before, so I'll have to tear that down and check it out, unless you just have to break in the rings or something before the diff really catches.

I'll post some pics of the truck as soon as I finish the body. I'm painting it in the same scheme as the truck on the box, but I'm going to paint the silver area chrome instead. Should look great. :)

What wt. oil do you guys usually run in the front/rear?

PS-I'm going to be running the truck with a O.S. .12 CV-R, a Hitec 625mg steering servo, a standard airtronics servo for throttle/brake, and a MX-3 probably with XXL receiver.

Did you get the standard kit or the Drake edition? Is your diff slipping or is you slipper slipping? If the slipper is slipping the slipper pads will move. If they don't move while you are turning one wheel with the other wheel and the spur gear held still then you need to tighten your diff alot. When doing that the slipper pads should always turn if they don't or if you feel any other slipping that isn't the slipper then you need to tighten your diff.

Are you racing or bashing? Either way try the 40wt rear 40 wt front to start with. If you are racing on a surface where you would rather get a little more front steering response and soak up smaller bumps better go lighter, if you want better rear traction and to soak up smaller bumps go lighter in the rear and vice versa.

Try the drake setup for starters.

So far this is the best setup at my track which is pretty loose right now and fairly dry with medium jumps, and open/tight
This is for my track, lol, not the magic setup(which dosn't exist) :p

30 wt front
30 wt rear
red springs front
pink springs rear
#2 upper shock setting front
#2 upper shock setting rear
middle lower shock setting front
middle lower shock setting rear
Arms level front
Arms level rear
0 front toe
4 rear toe
M3 Edges in front
M3 bowties in rear

everything else is the standard setup

Losi tires are generally for wet tracks Pro Line for dry


Very similar setup to what Im using. .12 CV-R slide carb, 645 mg servo, standard throttle brake, JR XR3, XXL reciever or 3ch Futaba.

[WheelNut]

Talk about a quick reply! :D

Cool. I'm going to run rotarty carb, I'm more familiar with them.

I have the standard kit. And the diff is slipping I can see the top shaft is spinning also. I've done that test tons of times so, its easy for me to tell now. :) I guess I'll just take it apart and expirement with how much grease you need to put on the rings. Mabye I should try the spring from the sport kit? To bad we couldnt just stick in a stealth diff. :p hehe

The stock kit includes 30wt oil right? I will try that first, but I wont be able to race until this spring. Me and a bunch of us RC guys in my area will be building a off road track, so I guess I'll worry about tuning later. And as for tires I have 3 full sets rims so I'll be able to get a big selection going pretty quick. :)

Oh somebody post some pics of their truck! We need some pics in this thread somewhere, I havent seen any yet! I'll post some in a few minutes actually.

[WheelNut]

Check out the link for the new kit pics!

http://www.pbase.com/traxxaskid/team_losi_xxxnt

[cabbynate]

Did you glue the front tires on. If you did you my have to much steering that way. Try the two stright ribs on the inside next time.

[grimlock3000]

hey wheelnut, are all the extra parts the the parts package from ultimate hobbies?

[BIGBADBOWTIE]

Has anyone tried the 360 degree MIP stinger exhaust for the XXXNT yet. I looked at one on ebay today and was curious of there performance.

Ray

[losixxxnt]

Wheelnut:
If you see the top shaft spinning then the the slipper is slipping not the diff.too much grease won't make the diff slip.The washers are better than the spring.

[Racin Rev]

winning edge designs,
Hey Jim, I know that this is a little off topic but, what would you reccomend for a decent but not hugely expensive airbrush? I am trying to move past cans and want to get something that I can grow with. :)

[WheelNut]

Losixxxnt-Oops I guess I mixed up my words. It is slipping though.

Grimlock3000-No its from StormerHobbies. The XXXNT sport parts support package.

Cabbynate-Yes I did glue the tires on this way. I did it like that on my dads GT also because there still wasnt enough steering. Espcially since the engine would pull the front up all the time. So I'll try this. If I get to much steering I can always get another set of tires adn glue them the other way.

[Tactic]

Hey all, I'm new here and had a question. I just replaced my Airtronics servo (absolute garbage) with a Metal Geared Hitec. However, I don't have the proper servo arm for it. Anyone know what will happen if I use the #23 arm instead of the #21 or whatever it is?? Thanks.

[slodsm]

It is the number of teeth on the output shaft. What will happen is it will strip and you will lose control. And Airtronics is by far not a garbage servo. You probably just had a sport model and they are meant for just that, throttle on a basher, not steering on a racer.

[Tactic]

Ok, I figured it was something to do with the output shaft. Although it may be one of Airtronics' lower line servos, I've had two die on me in the past two weeks. One broke while breaking in my motor and going in circles! The other broke after a mild crash. I've owned Futaba sport model servos that have taken 20x the abuse and never broken.

[WheelNut]

Dude! I finished the body today! Its pretty sweet. I didnt do taht great of a job masking it, and the chrome isnt to great. But that was my first attempt at using Laquer paints. They seem to work pretty well.

My copy of the kit box pic, sorta... :-) (http://www.pbase.com/image/9681297)

New kit and body-side (http://www.pbase.com/image/9681300)

A rear angle pic (http://www.pbase.com/image/9681298)

Overall body pic (http://www.pbase.com/image/9681296)

Chrome highlight (http://www.pbase.com/image/9681295)

Chassis rear anlge shot (http://www.pbase.com/image/9681293)

Chassis top view (http://www.pbase.com/image/9681294)

Note that I modified the battery box to use 4-40 cap head screw instead of those tiny stock button head screws.

Hope you like the pics!

Quick question, should I lube the gears in the tranny? If so what should I use?

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by WheelNut
Dude! I finished the body today! Its pretty sweet. I didnt do taht great of a job masking it, and the chrome isnt to great. But that was my first attempt at using Laquer paints. They seem to work pretty well.

My copy of the kit box pic, sorta... :-) (http://www.pbase.com/image/9681297)

New kit and body-side (http://www.pbase.com/image/9681300)

A rear angle pic (http://www.pbase.com/image/9681298)

Overall body pic (http://www.pbase.com/image/9681296)

Chrome highlight (http://www.pbase.com/image/9681295)

Chassis rear anlge shot (http://www.pbase.com/image/9681293)

Chassis top view (http://www.pbase.com/image/9681294)

Note that I modified the battery box to use 4-40 cap head screw instead of those tiny stock button head screws.

Hope you like the pics!

Quick question, should I lube the gears in the tranny? If so what should I use?

Nice job on the body. I am painting one right now. This masking tape I am using sure like to bleed though. :( lol Ill post pics when Im done. :)

Don't put anything in the tranny. It is made to be run dry. If you put anything in it all it will do is slow it down. You will need to put just a little WD-40 on the bearings though.

[winning edge designs]

Wheelnut, great pics, looks like a good job to me. The masking part can be done well if you use 3M(scotch brand) long mask. It is blue in color and a little expensive, but it's only the cheap $2.00 tape that bleeds under and can ruin an expensive body. Also always use your finger nail, or a flat dull tool to "burnish" the tape edges.

The tranny gears can benifit, imo, from a little diff lube. The clear silicone in the kit tube. Use it sparingly and then use the white assembly/thrust lube on the case halves to seal out dust, etc. The main problem with lubricating the gears is if dust gets in, any grease will cause the dirt to stick to the gears and accelerate wear..................After assembly of the case halves, wipe down any of the white grease that squiches out. This also lets you know you have enough to seal the tranny...Jim

[maxman142001]

Wheelnut- What engine do you plan on putting in it?

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Got Speed
Nice job on the body. I am painting one right now. This masking tape I am using sure like to bleed though. :( lol Ill post pics when Im done. :)

Don't put anything in the tranny. It is made to be run dry. If you put anything in it all it will do is slow it down. You will need to put just a little WD-40 on the bearings though.

My body turned out to be the worst I have ever painted. I ran out of parma mask and used 3m mask which bled like crazy! :mad:
Im still using spray cans too so the one color went on real bad and dried bad. I have another one like it that is good but it's getting beat up from racing it. I was hoping this would be a show body but not now. If anyone has a Drake Fury NT body they would like to sell. LMK

thanks

[Tactic]

Originally posted by WheelNut
Note that I modified the battery box to use 4-40 cap head screw instead of those tiny stock button head screws.


I did the same thing...so much better than those button head screws!

[slodsm]

Truck looks great wheel nut. I too want to know, what engine are you going to put in?

[WheelNut]

Thanks guys. I'm going to put in an O.S. of course! A .12 CV-R rotary carb. I'd get a .15 like my dad has but its $60 cdn more! $200 vs $260.

BTW-I did use good masking tape, 3M and Tamiya, I just didnt take the time to do it well. :p

[winning edge designs]

It's important to note that cheap tape will make the job harder to do well. But preperation and procedure is even more important. Since i've been airbrushing about 9 or 10 years i've learned a few things. First is good quality products and no skimping on them for best results. Second is Patience and lots of it. Keep all edges "burnished" with your fingernail, even between colors and preferably just before spraying each color. Spray the first color VERY lightly, called a "tack coat". Spray the second lightly as well, but it should show an indication of the color it will end up. The third coat will be almost final, true color. And the 4th and last coat will be a touch up for the areas that are lighter then the easy to reach spots..........Sounds tedious, but it works well. On my site at jconcepts dot net I have some of the work i've done, but only a fraction. The site is under construction as well so not 100%......Hope this helps, Jim

[pooldoc101]

Jim, I saw your sight and you are awesome.! Do you have a price list?

[winning edge designs]

pooldoc, I do but i'd rather not do business directly on another companies site. A plug here or there is different then discussing prices, etc. You can E mail me at wedjim@cfl.rr.com....Thanks for the props!...Jim

[nitrobdboy]

I'm having problems with the mach 15 it seems very sluggish, even adjusting the high speed either direction did not help, I was told not to mess with the low end. the quick start says that the low needle should be 4 turns, the manual says engines are 2 on the low, my ex-gt that I gave to my nephew leaves it in the dust while my xxx bogs then accelerates slowly, I've been told that 4 turns is way to rich. it also never gets the high pitch winding out sound that the gt gets either, should I of stayed with the ae gt?

[Anthen27]

Anyone know if MIP makes CVD's for the Losi XXX NT and if they do where I can get a set of MIP shiny CVD'S and Losi front graphite arms for a good price?

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by nitrobdboy
I'm having problems with the mach 15 it seems very sluggish, even adjusting the high speed either direction did not help, I was told not to mess with the low end. the quick start says that the low needle should be 4 turns, the manual says engines are 2 on the low, my ex-gt that I gave to my nephew leaves it in the dust while my xxx bogs then accelerates slowly, I've been told that 4 turns is way to rich. it also never gets the high pitch winding out sound that the gt gets either, should I of stayed with the ae gt?

4 turns is way too rich. Start with three and work you way down untill you get it dosn't bog anymore.

[nitrobdboy]

why does the rtr instructions say 4 turns on the low neddle?, I was told not to mess with this losi could of gave better instructions, and dynamite does not have any online info on the mach 15, dont want to fry a brand new engine

[slodsm]

Originally posted by Anthen27
Anyone know if MIP makes CVD's for the Losi XXX NT and if they do where I can get a set of MIP shiny CVD'S and Losi front graphite arms for a good price?

Stormer hobbies has the best prices I know of other than my LHS, and yes they make shiny CVD's for losi, they are awesome.

[Trevor280z]

hey i stripped out about 5 4-40 screws for the chassis, so i got me a set of husky allen wrenches. BIG DIFFERENCE. can someone give me an item number for a screw set? it would be a big help. 2 of the screws hold the trannsmission on.

[Herpetologist]

Not positive about numbers but I know racers edge makes a stainless steel set. You can also check out ebay. That is where I got my srew set from.
Dustin

[TheLaxPlayer]

Would anything bad happen if I dont glue my tires?

[busades]

as soon as u hit somen they will come off and your truck will go everywhere! alwayz glue em on, just look at tyco or whatevers cars when the they pop off they go everywhere, and not good for the .12 u r running

[nitrobdboy]

Originally posted by nitrobdboy
I'm having problems with the mach 15 it seems very sluggish, even adjusting the high speed either direction did not help, I was told not to mess with the low end. the quick start says that the low needle should be 4 turns, the manual says engines are 2 on the low, my ex-gt that I gave to my nephew leaves it in the dust while my xxx bogs then accelerates slowly, I've been told that 4 turns is way to rich. it also never gets the high pitch winding out sound that the gt gets either, should I of stayed with the ae gt?


Somebody with this engine please help why does it say that 4 turns on the low needle is where it should be, and im told I shouldn't mess with the low neddle adjustment leave it where it is preset at 4 turns

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by nitrobdboy
Somebody with this engine please help why does it say that 4 turns on the low needle is where it should be, and im told I shouldn't mess with the low neddle adjustment leave it where it is preset at 4 turns

I do not know why they say 4 turns. My Hyper .21 says 4 1/2 turns out but I have to run it at 1 3/4 turns about.

If you have an LHS or track it is best to ask someone to help you out. Most people are glad to help.

If not, start with 3 1/2 turns out. Then lean or richen in 1/8th turn increments untill you get the desired power and note from the engine. As long as you see plenty of blue smoke coming from the engine, and it has a fairly high pitched note then you are safe. I had the same problem with tuning when I was new to nitro but now it has become second nature. The more you do it the easier it will be. I highly recomend a temp gauge to use as a guide. You can get onboard ones(what I have) for as little as $30 or handheld IR guns for as little as $70. You can find pretty good deals on here too.

[pooldoc101]

When i pull on the throttle arm on my carb, it will pull out slightly and seems to be hold in by the boot only. Is this ok? This is a rotary carb on a OS cvrx

[banditwing]

I probably am not the best to ask, because I did fry my mach by running it too lean, but, I usually run it at 4, and it felt like it was running ok, if I leaned it out any more it wouldn't start, and would run too lean. So maybe check something else, try reseting to factory specs, 2.5 on hsp, 4 on lsp and see what happens. Otherwise, there is probly something else that is the prob.

[winning edge designs]

nitrobdboy, no matter which truck you have if the engine isn't set properly it would effect both the same way.

Instructions are great if you're way out of the ball park. But once your close and the engine runs half way decent the rest is up to tuning by ear and feel, etc., not the book. If the engine doesn't "clean out" at high speed throttle setting, ie: wide open. Then your carb is likely rich on the top end, same for low end setting. If it bogs at low speed then the low needle is off. The high needle will effect the bottom a bit, but the low needle won't effect the top end needle settings. For example, a rich bottom and normal or close top end setting would bog for a couple seconds, then become normal and get up to speed.

I would lean down the top 1/4 turn and make a run, if it gets better, turn it another 1/8, do another run. Make an 1/8th turn clockwise adjustment each time until it has some speed. (It is possible that the engine is too lean, but the symptom would be that it will run ok cold, then start running bad as it heats up)......Keep in mind you always want to make adjustments from too rich, to correct, never from too lean. Once an engine overheats setting it properly is a gamble at best...Hope this helps,Jim

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

pooldoc101-the idle speed screw (the one with the spring) fits into a machined slot in the throttle barrel on a rotary carb. If the screw has disengaged from the slot, the barrel will have a lot of axial (in and out) play. BTW, this makes the mixtures almost impossible to set.

nitrobdboy, banditwing-I found my son's Mach 15 in his XXXNT RTR to be very tolerant of a rich mixture-to the point that with the warm engine idling, a brisk pull on the trigger would get only a small RPM increase-just enough to move the truck. Making small changes in the "lean" direction, first on the LSN, eventually found good settings for both needles. I adjusted the LSN and HSN alternately as I recall.

The "book" needle settings are very rich; good break-in settings are leaner to avoid the cold break-in danger of snapping the connecting rod with a too tight liner to piston fit at low head temps.

[busades]

does anyone make any real hop-ups for this truck? like it is now very popular because of the rtr one and there are still not many upgrades, only the losi graphite (sp?) and some trinity parts, noting really to make it go faster just a new .12. I have an rtr, but ive upgraded it like crazy ever since i got it, because it breaks a lot from jumping, but there i not realy any good cool upgrades for it that i have found, anyone make parts for these? ( i like my truck to go fast and to me there is never a too fast of truck im swaping my .15 for a .12 rb 5 port turbo to make it fly, im more about backyard bashing with my neighbour with his tmaxx rather than racing) ( and o ya my xxx-nt already is faster lol but the tmaxx does put up a good fight lol) any ideas or parts iu can get, i have a lot of grapite on it so far and a few teamtrinity parts but i would like to know some more upgrades that are out there for this truck.:cool: ;) :p

[Philly's Finest]

There really aren't any. If your looking for cool aluminum then your gonna have to get another truck, maybe a AE or Maxx. This truck was designed for racing & a load of colored medal parts aren't gonna make you faster. Graphite = faster because of the wieght.

[grimlock3000]

Today I finally got my XXX-NT kit that I was supposed to have for Xmas. I thought the delivery was taking too long and kept checking with Ultimate Hobbies. Ultimate Hobbies would not give me the tracking number and kept telling me to wait for my kit to arrive soon. Come to find out, my kit was delivered to the wrong house by UPS. I had to get the kit from my neighbor who just called me after finding the box on his porch. There are less than 10 houses on my road so I have no idea how the UPS driver missed it.

I read the first 100 pages of this thread for information before ordering any of the parts. Here is what I have so far:

-XXX-NT kit
-OS .12 CV-R engine w/10C carb
-Hitec 625MG servo
-Lunsford turnbuckles
-RPM rod ends
-RPM front bumper

I went with the 10C carb so I could get an engine with a standard crankshaft. Everything in my price range with the rotary carb had a short crankshaft. The 10C carb might not have been the best idea, however it should save me from buying another crankshaft if the engine ends up in another kit. For just bashing around, I hope I will not have any issues with the power delivery of the 10C. The RPM and Lunsford hardware is for strength and reliability. The 625MG should have plenty of torque to get the truck around and will be the fastest servo I have ever owned. There is over a foot of snow on the ground so I will not start building anything for a while :)

First and foremost, I still need a radio! I think I am going to get a Futaba 2PH AM or a Hitec Aggressor FM. The Hitec has more feature and cost roughly double what the Futaba cost. Should I go with the Hitec Aggressor FM radio w/ EPA or do I only need the standard Futaba 2PH AM radio? The reason I ask is because it looks like I could get away with no EPA due to the linkage setup.

Next up, should I buy this:

http://www.ultimatehobbies.com//p534.html

It is a lot of parts for $80! Is it $80 worth of parts I will actually need though? Or should I just wait until I break something and then buy a replacement?

And finally, is there a cheaper alternative to the Trinity XXX-NT receiver pack? Pretty much anything that is 6V should work fine as long as it fits and has good capacity.

Thanks for everyone's help and information in this thread :D

[winning edge designs]

Grimlock, Congrats on a great truck! It sounds like you're putting together a great package. The 10C carb should be fine for high traction, and especially for "bashing". With snow on the ground it sounds like the best time to be biulding!!!
Rather then getting all those parts (a great deal if you have the money though) you could just get a rear pivot block, rear hub carriers, some titanium ballstuds(for inner camber) and another battery box and rear shock tower. If you're carefull with the diff and slipper settings they will last quite a while. I'd rather see you get an FM radio rather then $80 in parts. With an AM radio it's more likely you'll need them though? Since they are more likely to get interference hits. Listen to an AM radio station, then an FM back to back and you'll see what the radio hears and the differences......Good luck, Jim

[winning edge designs]

For reciever batteries I like the Orion stuff, it's a little cheaper, but not much. But at the same time it's the exact same thing under the stickers. Contact the guys at Superior Hobbies and see if they have what you need they have a website if you add the dots and coms to superiorhobbies......ttyl, Jim

[Trevor280z]

FM radios have way less interference. i think os engine carbs are all interchangeable so you can switch to a rotary carb. good choice on the engine and servo. dont know about that accessory pack i just got my xxxnt kit built and still breaking in the engine. im going to the baseball field to break it in so i dont wear the tires down. im sure it would be good to have all those parts handy but from what ive heard at my local track diffs and shocks are the main things. occasionall a cracked batter box but i got the native racing aluminum one for my receiver pack

[Trevor280z]

call ultimate hobbies.. dont order online

[banditwing]

Yeah I agree call ultimate hobbies, their site is not secure. If you are looking for an fm radio for cheap, go for the mx3. I have one, and it kicks major poopy. What I found out that was cool, is since I was getting more steering to the left than the right. I bumped up the epa on the r steering to 115% and now have equal steering travel! I really love this radio. Of course a r1 or m8 would be better, but for the price i really love my mx3. I got it for $130 w two sevos, but I have heard of as low as $90 with one servo at some places online. (Not sure where).

I would go for the mx3, its a great radio. And is that package of parts the rtr material, or stiffizel? If its the rtr material i wouldn't go for it. Although that is a lot of parts! haha

-Have fun with your great truck.

BTW, I finally finished puttin together my xnt kit, it is one sweet truck. And I have found that the kit is a lot better than the rtr.

-Banditwing

[busades]

sould i put in a sirio .12 or .15 or an rb concepts 5 port turbo .12 in my xxxnt, its for bashing mainly ;) i just want some crazy power

[Racin Rev]

grimlock3000,
Nitro house has the best prices around on reciever packs. www.nitrohouse.com I think.

[slodsm]

All those parts are definately a good deal for 80 bucks. And the receiver packs I use are trinity but I use the standard 2 on top 3 on bottom, look like this.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDJW9&P=0

I am not sure how much you can find one for but any pack that style fits like a champ.

[WheelNut]

I'm pretty sure the part support package is the RTR matieral. On mine it says the RTR support kit and seems to have all RTR parts. Including the turnbuckles which I will probably install on my kit since the look waaaaaay easier to adjust than the the crappy mini flats on the stock turnbuckes.

BTW-The mx-3 is a pretty sweet radio I got one a few days ago. And its really cool. Still havent had a chance to run it but I got ti all set-up in my micro for some racing, I cant wait to try it. My old Futaba magnum would glitch on a few corners at the track, so I want to see how much better Fm really is. For its price the MX-3 has the best bang for the buck out there.

[AreCee]

The parts in the Support Kit are the regular XXX-NT plastic and not the RTR kind. The RTR plastic parts has RTR stamped on them and the arms in the kit do not have RTR stamped (or moulded) on them. The only RTR parts I found were with the diff adjustment screw which came with a spring rather than the Belleville washers. You can't go wrong for $80 even if you never use some of the parts. So far I've gotten my money's worth from the parts that I did use. And you get another body but no decals.

[Locus]

Looking at buying the Losi Race Wrenches. Which do I need, the Metric or Standard? Or both?
-
Also I just got the Lunsford Turnbuckle Hinge Pin Set for Losi XXX-NT Part #4068. Which RPM Rod Ends do I need to go with these Lunsford Turnbuckles? I'm looking at the "Long Shank Rod Ends at TowerHobbies (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEV21&P=7)

Thanks!

[WheelNut]

For all Losi and Associated kits you need Standard wrenches. So thats what you'll need.

Those ball cups your looking at are the right ones. But you can use your stock ball cups, unless their not strong enough, or are worn out.

[kcobra]

When I bought my XXX-NT from ultimate, I decided to just order a second kit instead of the parts package. Seemed like you got more and you are covered on any breakage. Since most of the tracks around here do not have an on-site hobby shop, having a lot of spare parts is needed.

[maxman142001]

Adam Drakes NEW setup now avaliable at Team Losi website!:)

[rccarman5]

Originally posted by nitrobdboy
why does the rtr instructions say 4 turns on the low neddle?, I was told not to mess with this losi could of gave better instructions, and dynamite does not have any online info on the mach 15, dont want to fry a brand new engine

hell you wouldnt' believe this but this is the setting i was running on my xtm .15, this si wat the maual said. 5 1/2 turns out on the low. i couldn't get the damn thing started. the starter box wouln't turn it over because of the excess fuel. so when i would remove the plug, and turn it over to remove the fuel. i would have a fountain of fuel. so i just kept leaning it out untill it finally started. and it was around flush. so 4 is way too much. they expected the engien to start at 5 1/2 ha. ignore the manual.

[[-Ecko-]xxx-nt]

Im looking forward to buy the rtr kit but only have about 290$. does anyone know any hobby shops that have good prices for this kit. Thnx:cool:

[rccarman5]

try ultimate hobbies, stormer hobbies, or better yet, ebay. u can get a rtr kit for 300 bux.

[[-Ecko-]xxx-nt]

I checked on ebay and there is a hobby store in Tampa, Fl, selling it for 300 and I live in Miami. My bro is also getting one so the hobby shop gave us a disscount too. So I guess I'll be heading up to Tampa soon for the RTR and some vacation. Thnx alot:D

[rccarman5]

np, tats wat this message board is for.

also. any problems you may encounter. post away.

[RCRACER2471]

O.S .12CV-RX best engine thats a pull start for losi xnt? Dont like fantom. Any comments would be great !

[rccarman5]

fantoms look like fast powerful engiens.

also os engien sare very good. esecially the .12cv-rx

[winning edge designs]

rcracer2471, I would stay with the O.S. engines, I believe you'll have more power with it then a Fantom. The Fantom's are good Top end, but sluggish on the bottom, in my experience. If you want ultimate power and price isn't too much of an issue for a few dollars more i'd recommend the Orion Wasp pullstart .12. That will give you the power AND Rpm........Truth is almost any engine will do well if taken care of though........Jim

[Got Speed]

I am PISSED! :mad:

I was getting my XXXN-T ready for racing again on thursday and when I went to check the diff it was slipping like crazy. So I though no big deal :rolleyes: , I tightened it a little more, and a little more untill it was soooo tight it was imposible. I stripped it down and looked at it. When I did two or three of the thrust bearing balls fell out so I bought some more and put them in untill I had 9 again. When I put the diff back together I tightened it down nice and tight. When I tested it the diff still slipped. Again, I thought no biggie :rolleyes: . So I tightened it some more, still slipped, again and again I did this untill it was so tight there was no useable differential action. :mad: Even like this if I worked the wheels about 10 times the diff starts slipping again!
It was working just fine the week before when I raced. So I have no idea what made it so loose to begin with, and what's wrong now. I had no problems with the diff untill now other than when I first got the truck and I messed up. :mad: :mad: :mad: What gives! :confused: :eek: :mad:

[dkj-M3]

the fantom looks just like an HPI engine.

gotspeed- you sure the nut or the screw isn't stripped, I had that happen before it looked ok & would tighten but not enough.
Or maybe the locknuts nylon is wore out, that happens on my wheel nuts, they don't hold like they used to when wore out.

[winning edge designs]

dkj, I believe the HPi engines are made by Mugen, but the Fantoms are made by a company in Japan i'm told.


Got Speed, in my diff I use 8 thrust balls, not 9! It is possible you have too many, stopping the diff action. This will cause twisting of the diff outdrives to force the nut to loosen. (This is why which direction it faces doesn't matter except for access pref.)..........Jim

[winning edge designs]

There are a few different types of diff thrust assemblies available for Losi's. There are also two different size thrust ball bearing sizes. Make sure you have the right amount for the size and type your using....Jim

[Got Speed]

dkj-M3- Thanks for the help but it will tighten but it is too loose unless it is tightened really tight which it will do but I have no diff action.

WED- Thanks as well but, I was told it is better to use 9 balls because it keeps the diff from loosening as easily. I don't know, I did before the problem, but I will try with only 8. I am using the 5/64" balls the manual says to use on my drake, and I am using the RTR spring in it.

[rccarman5]

has anyone busted a stock sniftizel rear pivot block? mine broke today i think it was from my first time jumping? i thought nhothing was tat hard but it broke right at the steel hinge pin. wehre the set screw belongs. wehre can i get another set screw? not sure if my set screw is lost yet. but sormer doesn't sell it? where else. lhs doesn't sell losi parts.

[fulbore4x4]

Hey WED, are you still painting bodies? I may have a pair that will need to be painted!

[rccarman5]

anyone brake a pivot block? and where did u get ur parts, the set screw? thanks. i'm going to get the graphite, so it will not occur again.

[dkj-M3]

Happy New Year

rccarman5- don't get the plastic or the graphite block, it will keep breaking, get the trinity team kinwald aluminum rear pivot block, it's definately worth it.

Anyone coming to the big races at CRCRC in Columbus OH (http://www.crcrc.com/)? Drakes going to be there.

[rccarman5]

but why do they break so fast? i didn't do much to ruin it. just cart wheeled it a little. pretty cheap material. i guess i'll just get teh graphite since i have no money.

[grimlock3000]

I ordered some more items to complete my truck. I decided to pass on the parts package for now until I get everything up and running first. Or if I get some extra money soon I will order the parts package ;)

I ordered an Airtronics MX3 and the Trinity XXX NT receiver pack along with another RPM driver (1/16), a receiver lead cord (for charging), purple paint, CA glue and thread lock. I mainly wanted the radio and then bought some extras to get my order over $150 so I could use a $15 off coupon at Tower Hobbies. The coupon code is 010BT and still works fine even though it is no longer listed on the Tower's front page, I have no idea when it expires.

As an FYI, I found Orion 1100 capacity receiver packs at www.rcp1tcr3w.c0m for only $20.99 in case anyone needs a good deal. Replace the number with letters in that URL to get to the site since the text is blocked.

Now all I need is a glow plug starter, starter box, and charger. For a starter box I was looking at getting one of these with a 12v battery:

http://www.ofna.com/images/start-4.jpg

How is this for a charger? It should have the needed settings to peak charge TX and RX batteries:

http://www.duratrax.com/caraccys/dtxp4005a.jpg

I would not mind a cheap wall charger but I think a peak charger would make more sense for the long term.

And this for a glow starter:

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/g/gpmp2013.jpg
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJ801&P=7

I am open to any other ideas for the above three items. If something else will work a lot better at a reasonable increase in cost, I would buy it to save myself the hassle later on. After one more order, all I should need if fuel. And to have all the snow melt :D

[rccarman5]

you can get a starter box for 50 bux without batt or charger, check ultimates site, they have the associated one.

[grimlock3000]

do you think the single 700 series motor in the associated box is stronger than the two 500 series motors in the ofna box? thanks.

[Grifter]

I was just wondering what you guys thought: I know that a lot of you race your TripleX-NT's, but I'm sure some still bash with them.

When you're bashing, do you ever find yourself wanting more ground clearence? I have an Electric Rustler(dont really drive it anymore) and now just bought a Micro, but I'm still dying to get into Nitro. I still havent made up my mind about On or Off Road yet but I will when the time comes.

Well when I drive it sometimes I find myself wishing I didnt get a Stadium Truck. I want either a New T-Maxx or TripleX-NT Sport for a Nitro Off-Road. I've always liked the T-Maxx and was actually about to buy the TripleX-NT Sport.

I would mostly be bashing, which makes me lean towards the T, but the TripleX is such an amazing deal(I could get it Brand New for $290, not bragging, I'm just informing you on my situation).

So what do you think? I just relized that this has become a T-Max versus TripleX-NT Post. Sorry about that guys.

[dkj-M3]

if you just plan on bashing get the T-maxx you can't go wrong there, I saw one of the new ones in action & it's crazy fast. But if you plan on racing in the future get the losi, I pesonally would go with off road, because you are limited to smooth surfaces for on-road.

FYI - Some tracks do have a t-maxx class tho then you have the best of both worlds.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by grimlock3000
do you think the single 700 series motor in the associated box is stronger than the two 500 series motors in the ofna box? thanks.

The single motor is stronger and lasts longer.

I think the only possible problem with my diff could be the nut. Im going to get another one and try it. Still I can't figure out how it would just decide to loosen itself sitting on the shelf!?

[Grifter]

Originally posted by dkj-M3
if you just plan on bashing get the T-maxx you can't go wrong there, I saw one of the new ones in action & it's crazy fast. But if you plan on racing in the future get the losi, I pesonally would go with off road, because you are limited to smooth surfaces for on-road.

FYI - Some tracks do have a t-maxx class tho then you have the best of both worlds.

I dont think I will be racing, no tracks even remotely near me. I should find out how much I can get the T-Maxx for and then work from there. Another thing about the T-Maxx, besides the disgusting large aftermarket support, is its looks. I was looking at one at my LHS and it's just soo cool looking, I love it! And I heard the new 2.5 is awesome.

I still consider an On-Road because I like the looks also. Dont get me wrong, I'm not going for looks, but it's cool to see a Camaro SS body on a Nitro TC3, etc. But then when it snows, I can only imagine all the fun I'd have with a T-Maxx!!

[banditwing]

Grimlock, take a look at the dynamite peak prophet ac/dc at horizon hobby, only $40 can charge nimh and nicd, 1, 2, and 4 amp charge rate. I have one and it is awsome for the $40. the only prob i have with it is that the s p a d e fuse (or at least the one that they gave me) is weak. I picked up some radio shack 5 amp fuses and it fixed it right up. (A $.50 fix).

Grifter, I've got a rustler too and Im pretty sure I've seen you on the trx forums too. If your just going on some grass, then I think the xnt and rustler are great for that. But if your on terrain that your rustler is having trouble on then the xnt will also, because There is less ground clearance on the xnt. Of course you could always buy a set of mashers for the losi and change the clutch bell and you'd be fine in the ground clearance department.

But if your looking for a monster truck then the t is where it's at.

Happy New Years
-Banditiwng

[Got Speed]

Grifter- I would deffinatly suggest the T-Maxx then. Because of ground clearence, aftermarket support, speed, and all the good bashing features, plus if you find a track or move and want to race many tracks race Monster Trucks.

Grimlock- The MRC Superbrain 959 charger is $45 at tower and has alot of nice features for the money. BTW It is digital.

I went out and bought the diff hardware package so I will try the new bolt, washers, and nut. I switched to the RTR spring before but I think Im going to try the washers again.

[rccarman5]

grimer, tmaxx! i would have boughten it if i had the cash. but wanted to get the best deal possible so i bought a xxxnt kit for 150, 24 for xtm. 15, etc.

[winning edge designs]

Fulbore, Yes, I'm still painting bodies. I have slowed it down a little while I try and get an Auto Repair business going though. Not enough money in the R/C airbrushing business,:)....Let me know what you need and i'll give you a time frame.

"T maxx": As far as the T maxx goes, don't make the mistake I made and use a .21 for Power, LOL. I did nothing but repair that thing, but man was it stupid fast, haha.

Got speed, I use all the kit parts in my diffs and they are outlasting my outdrives and axles. I also think that using one extra thrust ball will cause binding in the thrust assembly......Try it stock and be sure to use the thin washer behind the bearing in between the thrust assembly and inner diff bearing.......Jim

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by winning edge designs
Fulbore, Yes, I'm still painting bodies. I have slowed it down a little while I try and get an Auto Repair business going though. Not enough money in the R/C airbrushing business,:)....Let me know what you need and i'll give you a time frame.

"T maxx": As far as the T maxx goes, don't make the mistake I made and use a .21 for Power, LOL. I did nothing but repair that thing, but man was it stupid fast, haha.

Got speed, I use all the kit parts in my diffs and they are outlasting my outdrives and axles. I also think that using one extra thrust ball will cause binding in the thrust assembly......Try it stock and be sure to use the thin washer behind the bearing in between the thrust assembly and inner diff bearing.......Jim

Well I have it fixed now. I think :rolleyes: . I will see tomorrow when I go to the track. It is still a little tighter than before but hopefully it will loosen up(not the diff, but get somewhat broken-in) some when I start driving on the track.

[Trevor280z]

personally i would go with the HPI savage for only $20 more than the t-maxx. its pull start so you dont have to worry about that sleezy-start traxxas gives you. At my local track(sugarbowl) there is a t-maxx class and i noticed that the 2.5 engine quits at unpredictable times. I can tell you right now its not reliable. If your into looks the savage fits all t-maxx bodies, wheels, and tires. plus it has just about the same amount of ground clearance.

[slodsm]

I agree with trevor, I only race losi and 1/8 scale but I have seen many a t maxx race and the 2.5 seems to be unreliable. if I were going monster truck, I would try a savage or a Ofna truck, they seem a little more reliable.

[Grifter]

Wow, thanks for all the input guys! I really appreciate it!

Banditwing: I am on the TRX Forum.

The Savage doesnt really do it for me, I dont know why. I also dont think I'd put a .21 in the T, too much money, and I'd like to have a nice, "reliable" Truck.

The thing that reels me into the TripleX is that price tag. I mean the Radio itself is almost that much. But I think I need to relize that the TripleX is a pretty much a Racing Truck even if I do get the Sport, so it would kinda be silly for me to get it and only drive it in my backyard. I'm assuming I can get the T-Maxx for about $350-400, I dont know for sure though.

Thanks again!

[jdm3849]

Ok, I am thinking about getting a new engine for my X-NT when I get it running again. I so far have 1 1/2 gallons through my Mach .15 which seems like alot compared to other peoples expiriences so I am not expecting it to last much longer. I have took good care of this motor so far by running it at 209 degrees and running it about once a day. So it could possibly last longer than I expect.

I am in the market for a good but cheap .15. there is the option of getting the .12 CV-RX. I want pullstart and nothing but pull start. No buts. 150$ or under is a good price, not really looking at the .15 CV-RX cause its out of my pricerange and when it comes to a rebuild it will be far more money than I can blow out of my pocket. Whatever you guys think is better between a slide or rotary carb would do. I also want my Losi pipe included with the sport rtr to be a direct fit. It does not have to be a really really reliable motor because I will eventually need to learn how to rebuild the motor and put in a new pistion/sleeve.

I was looking at the Fantom FR15 with p/s and rotary carb, looks like a good deal.

I also saw the OPS engine with rotary and pullstart, they claim they are selling for under 145. But I have yet to find a place that sells them :(

I know there is alot of motors out there-and thats the problem. (decisions,decisions) Please lead me to a good deal by giving the place to find it at and which one.

Thanks for listening to my non-sense. :D

-Mike

[grimlock3000]

grifter, sure, the xxx nt is designed for racing. however that does not mean that you can not have any fun with it. i am buying a xxx nt strictly for bashing purposes. i could have easily picked up a t-maxx or savage 21, but i wanted the xxx nt.

i went with the xxx nt because:

-i want to choose my radio and engine. i have no interest in spending almost $400 on a rtr that comes with a radio i do not want and a questionable engine. if they release the t-maxx as a kit, maybe i would have bought one long ago...

-i like to build my own vehicles. the first thing i would do with a t-maxx is probably tear down most of it and check it all out so i know it is put together right. i like to be familiar with anything i own so buidling from scratch is the best way.

-the xxx nt is will be far easier to maintain and repair. the t-maxx is very complex overall with an electric start, two speeds + reverse, eight shocks, three servos, and a lot of plastic drivetrain parts overall. over time, t-maxxes can end up costing a lot of money as parts wear down and break. a properly maintained stadium truck should not require as much maintenence.

-most of the t-maxx hop ups are just shiny bits, not parts that help the truck perform better. the xxx nt aftermarket is not flooeded with useless parts just for bragging rights.

-xxx nt is cheaper. the kits are pretty inexpensive and the rtr is a good deal too especially since it comes with a decent radio. as stated above, maintence should be easier and what there is to maintain should not cost too much.

just my two cents.

[OldskoolGT]

Grifter,

For just bashing, I would go for the T-Maxx or some other 4wd monster truck. The ground clearance of a ST is too low to go over many types of terrain. And honestly, the Losi truck is just too fragile for hardcore bashing or even softcore bashing.

[jdm3849]

I would get the X-NT, not fragile at all and with some masher 2000's it will have suffiecient ground clearance. Some people may beg to differ but I believe the X-NT is a better jumper. It is steady in the air and wil react good to throttle inputs. Even though it will bottom out harshly on the big jumps if you put the 2K's on it, your set. And.....with it being so much more simple than the T-maxx with all that 4wd crap there will be much less chance of driveline parts breaking. And when your talking about a rebuild for the maxx, that means big time. Just get the X-NT and you will be much happier. Many people agree that t-maxx's are money pits.

JMO that does'nt make sense

-Mike

[banditwing]

I bought a ARR and then a kit since they were such a great deal. I dissasembled the ARR and use the kit now (I built it). The closest offroad track is 60 minutes away, and I have only been there once (with my xnt). Most of the time I am running around in my backyard, and on the street and on my homeade track. (it's pretty good imo). I think it depends on what type of terrain you are looking at. If it's just grass, or some slightly rocky terrain, you will do fine with the xnt, even better with some mashers on the wheels. I have the mashers on my rustler, and the truck handles alright, but it is awsome at jumping, and bashing because of the xtra ground clearance.



A question for all you xnt guys:

If I just gave you a big pile of parts, not in any bags or anything, just every part for the xnt down to the very last washer, and a good set of hex drivers :p do you think you could build the thing perfectly from scracth without a manual? Or in other words, do you know exactly how your xnt goes together by heart?

I was just wondering how well you guys know the truck? hehe

-Banditwing

[dkj-M3]

i'm pretty sure i can, I use to take the manuel with me to all my races but I don't even bother with it any more. the xxx-nt is simple, the only thing I might have trouble with is the tranny. But I have a spare one.:D

[Got Speed]

jdm3849- The .12 CV-RX is a good engine. The Wasp .12 is too. With the wasp you will need a rear exuast header which is about $15. I personally don't like the Fantoms for many reasons. Mainly because there isn't a smooth powerband.

When if comes time to rebuild you can send you piston and sleeves into osrocket. He will squeeze them for you as long as it is not scratched up which is about $20 plus $5 shipping and the shipping it to him.

Here is the info:

Here is some of the information about the piston/sleeves renew
It only takes 2 to 5 days for me to turnaround,
Prices are as follows:
First one 20.00
Second,third,fourth,etc 15.00 each one
Packing/Shipping back to you 5.00 usps. Priority mail w/
delivery conformation,

So if you have only one it would be 20.00 plus 5.00 shipping 25.00
total> jb
And two of them would be 20.00 plus 15.00 and 5.00 shipping 40.00
total> thanks

IF YOU ARE NOT INCLUDING MONEY ORDER OR CASH WITH THE PARTS MAKE SURE
THAT YOU MARK DOWN PAYPAL PAYMENT NUMBER AND DATE< THANKS JB

Ship the piston/sleeves and you can leave the rod attached if you want
to, along with a money order or you can paypal
The osrocket@neo.rr.com account to:
John bohland
285 fox road
Lexington,ohio 44904

Thanks johnb

Eventually you will need to buy a new piston and sleeve anyway though. They arevery simple to put in. You just have to be careful about not scratching it or getting anything in it. You take the backplate off, then take the conrod off the crankpin, take the head off, pull out the sleeve(usually by very carefully putting a small flat blade screwdriver under the lip of the sleve), the take out the piston from the top.



Grifter- The losi can make a good basher but IMHO not as good as the T-Maxx. The losi won't make it over all the stuff the T-Maxx will, 4 wd is nice for mud bogging, rock climbing, ect. It can take the bashing well too. Racing can be as less or more hard on it than bashing depending on how good a racer you are and what you would bash on. If you plan on doing anything from speed runs down the street to mud bogging and rock climbing then you should get the T-Maxx imo. For running around in the yard or street the XXXN-T will have no problems but you can't throw the heavy stuff at like a T-Maxx. They are equally as durable for their size but the T-Maxx was designed for bashing as was the XXXN-T for racing. Not to say you can't race the T-Maxx or bash the XXXN-T. Now if that made any since please let me know. :p :rolleyes: lol


banditwing- Im sure I could put my truck back together with a pile of parts and tools. Ive completely stripped down my truck several times and reaseasembled it without directions. The diff makes me want to throw it agains the wall and pull my hair out though, lol. T
Too bad you can't run a stealth diff in the Losi. :p

[jdm3849]

Got Speed- Thanks for your reply, how much would a wasp .12 with pullstart and a header cost?

Have you heard anything about the OPS line of engines?
They are made in Italy but are selling for really cheap, but they do'nt come with carb's at the places I saw that were selling them. Do you think my mach .15 carb would fit on the OPS .15? I read a review on a X-NT sport where they replaced the mach with a OPS and they were stripping almost all the gears on the transmission? Idont see how it could have that much power. I would like to notice a large power increase over the mach .15. Can that guy only "squeeze" OS and other big name company pistions/sleeves?
I want this puppy to have some scoot but still be fairly cheap.


-Mike

[slodsm]

I could throw it together bandit wing lol, I tear mine down once a month and rebuild the diff and relube everything and every weekend after racing I do a partial tear down on the ones I raced that weekend just to clean up and store. I am pretty sure I know it like the back of my hand lol.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by jdm3849
Got Speed- Thanks for your reply, how much would a wasp .12 with pullstart and a header cost?

Have you heard anything about the OPS line of engines?
They are made in Italy but are selling for really cheap, but they do'nt come with carb's at the places I saw that were selling them. Do you think my mach .15 carb would fit on the OPS .15? I read a review on a X-NT sport where they replaced the mach with a OPS and they were stripping almost all the gears on the transmission? Idont see how it could have that much power. I would like to notice a large power increase over the mach .15. Can that guy only "squeeze" OS and other big name company pistions/sleeves?
I want this puppy to have some scoot but still be fairly cheap.


-Mike

I have seen ads for them but never actually seen one or heard anything about them. I don't really see how you could strip tranny gears all the time unless you don't adjust your diff right. Because people like Adam Drake, Brian Kinwald, Todd Hodge, ect are running mostly piccos which put out alot of power and they don't strip gears all the time. You would have to find out how large the opening is for the carb on the OPS and how large the car is on your mach .15. The Wasp .12 with pull start and header will probably run about $150ish.

osrocket can squeeze any .12-.25 piston and sleeve from what he says. I am about to give his service a try when I get the $25 for my Hyper .21

[cabbynate]

I think I could do that with all the Losi's.
(even the XX-4!!!:eek: ):D

[Grifter]

Well, all I can say is Thank You. You guys have been a great help, I really, really appreciate it!

grimlock: I pretty much thought the same thing that you did, but in the end the T-Maxx seems like it would fit me better.

There are going to be times when I take it out to some "tough" spots that really ask for 4WD and a lot ground clearence, and I know that the T-Maxx is up for it. And driving it in the Mudd and Snow would be an absolute blast!
Who knows, maybe in the future I'll get a TripleX-NT also.

Thanks again!

[banditwing]

Cool guys. I feel that I could put the truck back together completly except the only problem I might have would be the washers in the diff outrive, but I would eventually figure it out. I guess if you can build it without a manual, that is the test to see if you really know the truck that well (at least building wise).

As for my rustler, that thing is so simple, you could blindfold me and spin me in circles and make me use my bare hands and I could still assemble it right. Its a super easy truck, and super simple, the only thing is there needs to be many suspension mods to get it to handle anywhere as close to a losi or ae.

Thanks for the responses


I got a question about tuning, if my engine is stalling whenever I get off of full throttle and decelrate back down to idle, what do I adjust. I would think either my lsp is a bit too rich or the idle needs to be bumped up. Keep in mind that it does not do this while it's just idleing, only when I bring it back down to idle after acceleration to highspeed.

I have raised the idle, but then it gets to the point where the truck is creeping at idle, and i have also leaned the lsp, but then it is running hot, like 270. I have no idea what it could be, only that the engine is low on compression, but it has a fresh piston and sleeve only 1/2 gallon of fuel ago. I might have broken in the piston and sleeve a little to lean though. I mean I can easily start it when its cold, but when its hot it is hard to restart. Also it feels like there is not much compression, because I can easily rotate the flywheel with my hand. So do you think the cause is low compression? If it is I guess I should rebuild the engine then, but it's already been through one rebuild, and i would need to replace some other parts other than the piston and sleeve, so that would cost around $60 for a rebuild. So I guess it's finally time to fork it over for a new engine. (Os cvrxslide) What do you think?

I took a look at the pic of the parts package on stormer hobbies, and WOW that is a lot of parts!

It hasent been clear to me if the parts are rtr material or stiffizel? One person said there were the rtr turnbuckles, but another said that the parts were the stiffezel ones. What material are the parts???

-Wow that was a long post, thanks for reading it!

[dkj-M3]

it could be a number of things but it seems like a lack of compression or air leak, I really can't tell without seeing it tho. if you know someone near that knows how to tune, let them look at it.

[BlueBlaster01]

Anyone Interested in Aluminum Front Suspension Arms? We are working on a prototype model. They Will weigh VERY close to stock!! Post here if your interested!! - Aaron

[Herpetologist]

Very interested. Let's see a pic or two. Please don't anodize them in purple/blue e.t.c. They will look best in a chrome or black anodize. I would definately pick up a set. Make sure to include all turnbuckle settings and suspension settings. While your at it go for the rears too.
Dustin

[BlueBlaster01]

They would be bare aluminum. I will post pictures as soon as possible. We are still in early development stages. They will basically be stock replicas but made of Aluminum...Of Course they will be CNC Machined.
We want to see how well the front suspension arms sell, before me make rear arms. The front suspension arms break a lot easier then the rear arms.

ALSO, if the arms sell good. You'll be looking at a FULL line of alumimum products. Battery Boxes,Shock Towers...etc..

[rc4me2]

is it worth the extra bucks?

also...do the old GTX wheels fit on the xxx-nt
...is the front bearing diameter the same, not to mention the inside offset?

thanks

[rccarman5]

yes it is. but in my case, i picked up the xxxnt reg kit for 150 so i didn't have a choice but rip my self off. lol. but i would definatley. it's only good if u have a non pul start engien unless u want to change manifold because it will interfere with the pull starter.

[RCRACER2471]

rccarman5 i just got my losi xnt in the mail and im getting the O.S .12 CV-RX and was wondering what kind of header do i have to get for it to work.

For everyone in general I got my Losi today and i was wondering if there's anything i should look out for during the building process such as the transmission, suspension, and so on so i wont mess anything up. Any tips or comments would be great!!!!

[Got Speed]

My diff held up last night through the two qualifiers and the main. As soon as the other mains where done I started practicing. The second practice lap the car just stopped and reved up without moving. At least it didn't ruin my diff. :eek:

Anyway I got second place in the Main in the novice class.:)

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by RCRACER2471
rccarman5 i just got my losi xnt in the mail and im getting the O.S .12 CV-RX and was wondering what kind of header do i have to get for it to work.

For everyone in general I got my Losi today and i was wondering if there's anything i should look out for during the building process such as the transmission, suspension, and so on so i wont mess anything up. Any tips or comments would be great!!!!

Biggest thing to look out for is to make sure the slipper slips before the tranny. Prethread your screw holes.

[rccarman5]

Originally posted by RCRACER2471
rccarman5 i just got my losi xnt in the mail and im getting the O.S .12 CV-RX and was wondering what kind of header do i have to get for it to work.

For everyone in general I got my Losi today and i was wondering if there's anything i should look out for during the building process such as the transmission, suspension, and so on so i wont mess anything up. Any tips or comments would be great!!!!

yes as a matter of fact. the only thing you should look out for is you idle screw on ur engine, it will hit the transmission brace. u a little grinding is necesary. first build everything and see where i hits the brace. i used a dremel witha cone shape bit. another thing i had trouble with and had to buy a new set to acctually redo was the axles. they have you install the universal joints in the axels, i hammared the pins in when i only required a channel lock type pliar to push them in. make sure they line up with the hole when u push them in all the way. also, try not to strip the tools. they are very cheap quality. tat is if you are using the ktis. make sure u dont scratch the tips so much that they wear after a while. especialy the chassis bolts for teh tranny.

[rccarman5]

Originally posted by Got Speed
Biggest thing to look out for is to make sure the slipper slips before the tranny. Prethread your screw holes.

is tat for tat enigne? i have a xtm .15 and it's probably too slow for me to bewere for tat right? lol or all engiens?

[RCRACER2471]

What about gettin the header so that the pullstart works that u were talkin about

[rccarman5]

the anodized drake header is for non pull start only because it sits low. teh regular kit will accomadate a pull start becasue it sits high to clear for the pull starter. but can also be used with non pull start.


for non pull start and want the pipe ot sit low, get the drake manifold

if u have a pull start, get the kit manifold.

[Trevor280z]

Originally posted by RCRACER2471
rccarman5 i just got my losi xnt in the mail and im getting the O.S .12 CV-RX and was wondering what kind of header do i have to get for it to work.

For everyone in general I got my Losi today and i was wondering if there's anything i should look out for during the building process such as the transmission, suspension, and so on so i wont mess anything up. Any tips or comments would be great!!!!

get a good set of standard allen wrenches that go down to .050

[rccarman5]

yes you relaly need some nice sets of tools. the size u reallyneed is .050 and 1/16 becasue they are gonna break if u put a lot of torque on them, cuz their cheap. so ge those sizes. they are usaly like 10 for each.

[RCRACER2471]

Anything else about building that I should know??

[xxxntA-ron]

how fast do u think my xxxnt go with a megatech .16 engine?? thanks

[OldskoolGT]

RCRACER2471,

Use the included screw to tap certain holes per the instructions.

I would also drill out the screws holes that for the battery box cover so you can use a lager size screw there. I think the designers were smoking crack the day they spec'd those screws cause .050 screws don't work in plastic that hard.

Also, on the throttle linkage, I find there is no need for 2 springs. I just run one spring on the side that connects to the carb (just like all my other cars).

You might also want to pickup some titanium turnbuckles to build the kit with. I have found the stock turnbuckles to be very weak.

And finally, go to the Losi website and download the Drake setup and build your kit with that setup. Its the reccomended starting point for setting up the truck.

[rccarman5]

old skool i am for you on tat battery box thing. but isn't it possable? maybe if we shorten the screw. cuz 1/2 " is pretty long for tat size screw. /050. wat size screw did u use? also a little gasket would be nice. a little fine dust seems to always creep in those litle cracks.

[dkj-M3]

the 2nd spring on the throttle linkage is meant for radios with no end point adjustment, so it doesn't burn out the servo.

I used the screws that came with my servo on the batt box. & you should drill a hole on top of the batt box for the reciever pack or it will eventually slice through the wires or put fuel tubing around it through the opening.

[pooldoc101]

RC Racer, your cvrx fits in the truck fine, no trouble with the idle screw and the header in kit fits it. A set of tools is very helpful, and go very easy on the loctite, dont use too much! If you want to spend the money on hop ups , now is a good time to put them in , especially the ones that make you take the truck all apart to install, such as rear pivot blocks. As far as suspension arms and ballcups, i would wait to you break the kit ones before i upgraded. Good Luck and have fun!

[AreCee]

I just switched those .050 5/64 screws on the battery box with Dubro 5/64 cap head screws which use a 5/64 driver and are a bit stronger.

Be careful when installing the brake screws into the trans case side and don't screw the screw in too far or you'll break through into the trans and ruin the diff gear. Use the tapping screw as described in the manual.

The stock manifold and pipe work pretty good and allows the use of a pull start. But if you got a DE then you'll need to pick up another manifold to clear the pull start.

Good tools will always make the job easier.

[banditwing]

Yah AreCee, I did the same thing while building my xnt. Although I picked it up right after I finished the transmission and gave it a test spin.

[winning edge designs]

Someone mentioned aluminum arms for the 3X-NT and said they would weigh almost the same as stock. But then said they were patterned after the stock arms. ...Wouldn't they need to be machined much thinner to weight the same, or even close? Just thinking out loud.

Someone also mentioned the tranny brake holding screws. We found out very early in the production runs that the tranny case would only take so much heat from the brakes. This would never be any problem on the trucks intended surface. But, alot of racers test and tune and some "bash" on asphalt. This allows a much more aggressive brake end point setting to get full lock brakes and therefore Much more heat! The downside is a partly softened tranny case where the screws transfer heat to it from the brakes, which causes the screws to change angle. You'll notice, if this happens, by looking down at your brake disc while applied and seeing if it is fairly close to straight. When the tranny case has been overheated the disc may be at a fairly large angle, even as much as 10 degrees from normal........Bottom line, don't adjust the brakes so harsh for asphalt running....Jim

[rc4me2]

what about the wheels...
do xxx-nt's and the drake ed accept the same wheels as the old gtx (still got one, and it still hangs w/ them)

thanks

[winning edge designs]

rc4me, The wheels are different and only interchange between the XXXT and the XXX-NT platform. And if you're still hangin' with the drivers who have the newer truck you must drive pretty good! Keep it up, but don't forget you may be winnin', rather then hangin' with the XXX-NT?.............:), Jim

[fulbore4x4]

I bought this off of TexRacer...can't wait to take it out to play!

[BlueBlaster01]

Originally posted by winning edge designs
Someone mentioned aluminum arms for the 3X-NT and said they would weigh almost the same as stock. But then said they were patterned after the stock arms. ...Wouldn't they need to be machined much thinner to weight the same, or even close? Just thinking out loud.



Well, We've just begun the machining process. Not too sure yet if we can get them VERY close to stock. But They'll be ball park close.
One more thing, Am I the only one here that bashes the XXX NT? Everyone else seems to be racing... :confused:

[RCRACER2471]

No your not ther only one. I just got mine yesterady purposly for bashing and probly racing in the future. Im gona get a OS .12 CV-RX and Jr XR2 RAdio. That doesnt sounds like a total racing setup does it. Just remember that your not the only one!!! :)

[banditwing]

Well, I have the Stock Kit pipe and the rtr pipe, and so far I've only used the rtr pipe, but I was wondering what your opinions may be on the AE pipe (the one in the FT GT) and the Drake pipe?

-Thanks

[RCRACER2471]

Both are good pipes both have low end grunt but i would more with the Drake pipe. Besides you dont want to have a AE pipe in a team losi car especially when both teams race agains eachother.

[winning edge designs]

We've done alot of testing with pipes in 1/10th scale. In fact at the RC Pro Finals in Oklahoma we tested pipes for an entire day after the rain cleared up at the hotel. Doing timed tests for distance and noting power wheelies, etc.(a great measure of torque). We tried several pipes from Fantom, Associated FT GT pipe, the losi pipes all back to back, with minor carb tuning as needed for each to keep temps near 220. All were set at 1/8th inch gap between pipe and header (But no testing for header length was done). The best performing pipe we agreed was the Drake pipe, with the Fantom pipe a close second, then the FT GT pipe third (note that the "prototype" Fantom pipe had an illegal stinger...too large, since corrected). We suspected the length of the drake pipe helped more then the sharp angle of the other pipes divergence cones. So adjusting the pipe and header gap may give better results with the other pipes, but it could also be lengthened with the Drake pipe?................Jim

[winning edge designs]

Rcracer2471, IMO, it shouldn't matter what brand of truck you are running, no product should be discounted from possibly being better. Even the top level drivers use other products even if only for testing. And sometimes when needed to be sure they're gaining some kind of advantage and might win. Anyone who pays for thier equipment and isn't sponsored should use the best of each possible, if there is a proven best.
It's hard to explain the loyalty of customers who are paying for thier hobby equipment? Probably just as Chevy and Ford fans do...usually?
For example: I've seen racers on a blue groove track running a T3 who simply refused to run TeamLosi tires and finished poorly in qualifying. After getting a set of TL tires for the main they ended up running an A main time! I've also seen it the other way around, a TeamLosi owner who wouldn't use a Proline tire on a sandy track, etc...............Gotta try and keep the possiblities open for the best chance at the win!....imo.....:), Jim

[banditwing]

Hmm, thanks! I have heard something like the AE pipe has the best low end torq of all pipes because of the sharp divergent cone or something or is that just a marketing ploy to get me to buy AE stuff lol? Also, the blue of the pipe would go well with the body that I painted, but thats only a cosmetic thing. I'm just thinking in advance, cause I will probly experiment between the two pipes that i have before I go and buy a good pipe. Besides, I need an engine first lol.

Thanks for the info!

[nitrobdboy]

broke a rear pivot arm first lap on the track first time out, LHS didn't have a plastic one I hope the 29.00 aluminum one from trinity was not a waste of money.

[Got Speed]

nitrobdboy- The trinity pivot block will hold up fine. Are you running the RTR, kit, or drake?

Has anyone tried the panther micro rib tires? I couldn't turn down the $8 I got them for. They work great for me even though the ideal tire is the edge at my track.

How well do you guys that race do? How long have you been racing?

[winning edge designs]

nitrobdboy, the Aluminum pivot block is a good investment, even as overpriced as it is. I ran my truck without one for almost two years, but i'm running one now since it was free...;). Of course I had to sharpie off the blue anodizing...yuk......Jim

[OldskoolGT]

banditwing,

If you want a gimmicky pipe, check out the Paris Ribbed pipe. Those ribs are 100% marketing ploy IMHO.

I like the AE pipe on my GT, but not on my NT. AE and Losi parts should never be mixed together. Its just not right.

But seriously, I like the AE pipe. I shorten the header by 1/8 to get more top end power from that pipe.

[Trevor280z]

alright.. im on my last tank of breaking in my o.s. .12 cv. THe last couple of tanks i had to loosen up the glow plug for it to actually turn over. heres what get me. when i set it on the start box, i can see the flywheel spinning and but there isnt any kind of blow coming from the exhaust. and after about 15 seconds on the starter box my clutch nut starts to spin loose so i put some threadlock (team losi brand) on the threads of the crank and inside the clutch nut. ive charged up my starterbox twice but still no go

[winning edge designs]

Gotspeed, I've tried the panthers, but i'm not too thrilled by them, they are ok on some tracks. I've also tried the Edge's from Proline, but those are too aggressive for my style, causing a darty feel to steering just off center. In other words when you initially start to turn they "grab". But I do use the Edge's if the surface is really slippery and I need turn in. The tire I found best all around for me is the Razor pins from TeamLosi, or Razor ribs, silver for most tracks, red for lower bite hard tracks.

As far as my racing, I do ok, actually better since winning stopped being my only concern. Since i've gotten back to trying to have fun doing it, the wins come easier. I've been racing for over 16 years and with every brand available, even some that are out of business now.

OldSchool, I have a Paris Rib pipe, as well as a Picco "Pro" pipe, besides the ones I mentioned earlier. The Paris pipe felt good on the track, but it was too quiet. Wierd, but I like to hear my truck a little to know how well it's hooked up etc., but can't with the Paris pipe.

Trevor, it sounds like you have too much fuel in the engine, be careful not to bend the rod trying to force it to turn over. Lean it out a 1/4 turn and try again after clearing the engine by removing the plug. I usually break in my engines by running only "slightly" rich, rather then blubbering. The very fat break in procedure was done for 40's and 50's style cast iron sleeve engines. Breaking new style modern 2 cycle engines in this way, with them cold, can actually cause rapid wear from tight tolerances. These things expand as they heat to operating temp!........Hope this helps, Jim

[geerah]

i'm getting a xxx-nt and just wanted to know which engine would better suited for it. The .15 hpi ss, .12 hpi ss or the cvr. I'm looking for good top speed without sacraficing to the torque.

[Trevor280z]

im guessing thats the problem but i took the glow plug out and set it on the starter box and it would turn over. When i put the glow plug back in.. same problem. i dont get it

geerah.. look at the hp@rpm on those. for reliability and easy to tune get th o.s. but hpi puts that .12 ss in their cars which go 47 mph on 10% nitro(with a 2speed)

[winning edge designs]

geerah, i'd stick with the O.S., hard to beat for reliability and the price. If you must have more power try the Orion Wasp, those things are really fast.

Trevor, if there is too much fuel going into the chamber it will only be a problem with the glow plug in. With it out the fuel can escape............Jim

[Trevor280z]

im saying when i took the glow plug out that released any excess fuel that might have flooded it. when i put it back in i had the same problem

[banditwing]

Im not to concerned about mixing brands between losi and ae, it's not like im sponsored or anything (like that'l ever happen):rolleyes:

But my track that I have in my yard, and will be the track I race on most of the time, is very tight and technical, and I'm not quite finished building it. It is 4 lanes, and each lane is about 5 feet wide I would say. I put a lot of work into it so far, and it's coming out well. So I'm looking for mostly bottom end torq. Would I get that from the drake pipe? I heard that the AE is a bottom end pipe, But what would the drake pipe classify as?

For now I will probly just put a large gap between the header and pipe, and use the kit pipe.

-Thanks for the help

[Got Speed]

WED- I think I may try those. Im still kind of new to tire selection seeing as how I don't have the money to try different tires. But for me the fronts if they are a soft compound and a same tread pattern they all work relativly well. But there is no compromising on the Bowties at my track, lol.
Im doing ok in racing for the time Ive started racing(bashing before that), I think. Im placing the top of the novice class after about 8 races. How do you think that is? Good, Bad, Ok?

banditwing- I think the Drake pipe is very similar to the AE pipe. But I doubt you will notice the difference without timing your laps or unless you are a REALLY good driver.


As far as mixing brands, I really don't really care about that. If I need something I will buy whatever works best as long as it isn't at an unreasonably large difference in price. Otherwise I don't really care if it's ae, losi, or duratrax for that matter.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Trevor280z
im saying when i took the glow plug out that released any excess fuel that might have flooded it. when i put it back in i had the same problem

How tight are you tightening the clutch nut. You have to crank it down when you put the lock tite on and wait about an hour. Try and turn the engine over by hand with glow plug out. If it won't turn you have probably siezed the engine. If that dosn't work and you don't discover something else your best bet is to take it to your LHS and ask them to look at it. Because with uncommon problems and nothing to look at it makes it difficult.

Hope you get it fixed! :)

[freeflap]

Hi everyone!
I have the kit XXX NT from ultimate hobbies. I have an HPI 12R SS engine with ~1 gal use. I am another victim of the difficult diff and have rebuilt the diff, replacing the stock burned out plastic diff gear with an aluminum Robinson Gear. Now the diff is tight.
However, with acceleration, the truck doesn't get moving until I am at half throttle. Under full acceleration, it seems sluggish and doesn't want to hit top speed. The spur gear isn't moving either and the mesh is correct with the clutch bell. So, I have to think it's the clutch. I rebuilt the clutch assembly, roughed up the shoes with some fine sandpaper and cleaned it with denatured alcohol. It's better, but still not grabbing like it should. My old HPI RS4v2 with the same engine hooked up quickly and evenly so I don't think it's the engine.

Is this normal for a teflon shoe? Why teflon? Why would you make something that is supposed to be grippy out of the lowest coefficient of friction material? I only have three tanks of gas through the XXXNT. Will this improve? Any suggestions?
thanks

[AreCee]

I've been racing for a little over 15 years on and off and I completely agree with Jim (Winning Edge) that it's become more fun when I don't try to win. I still end up in either the A or B Main but I don't care if I win since I'm always shooting for a personal best and to have fun.

freeflap: if everything checks out OK then you may wish to add a little weight to the clutch shoes so they'll engage earlier. You can do this by drilling a small hole and fit a diff ball into that hole. You can also try a weaker spring. Be careful that the clutch doesn't engage so early as to bog down the engine.

[dkj-M3]

freeflap- did you check the slipper, sound like it might be slipping too much.

[nitrobdboy]

Originally posted by Got Speed
nitrobdboy- The trinity pivot block will hold up fine. Are you running the RTR, kit, or drake?

Has anyone tried the panther micro rib tires? I couldn't turn down the $8 I got them for. They work great for me even though the ideal tire is the edge at my track.

How well do you guys that race do? How long have you been racing?

RTR, I think it is a great truck, never been on a track with one till recently and could keep up with the guys with over powered engines that have been racing a while.

The one thing I need to figure out is how to get a better grip on the track when hitting the throttle, I was told that the stock tires are bad for that to get softer tires, what do you guys think?

[Anthen27]

I just built my XXX-NT with a new Sirio .12, Can't wait to break it in later today........

[maxman142001]

GotSpeed-Do you know Billy Fisher at SRS?

[winning edge designs]

Gotspeed, When you run the bowties do you notice alot of forward bite but not too much side bite? I have been to one or two tracks where they were the best, but at most gas style tracks it's all about TeamLosi Red compound Step-pins! They have about the same forward bite, but more side bite, so they feel more locked in. The exception, imo, would be if you're on a hard packed track, or a sandy dry track then the PL Steps will be great as well.


Freeflap, someone mentioned the slipper, i'd agree and have you look at it as well as the shoes. I have seen clutch shoes cause this problem, but usually only if there is oil or something similar in or on the clutch bell. If the shoes and bell insides are clean and dry, with some fine paper scuffing it should eliminate that possibility. Check that the slipper is as tight as it can be without it forcing the diff to slip. If the diff slips too easily you may need to snug it as well. Once you get a feel for the proper setting it's easy to duplicate each time you work on thses parts.........Hope this helps, Jim

[winning edge designs]

Forgot to mention, on a blue groove track, the other tires that are usually pretty awesome are the TeamLosi Reptiles and the T Bones, in Red compounds. For shorter mains like 10 minutes or so on a hard pack track I usually end up with Holeshots in M3....Jim

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by freeflap
Hi everyone!
I have the kit XXX NT from ultimate hobbies. I have an HPI 12R SS engine with ~1 gal use. I am another victim of the difficult diff and have rebuilt the diff, replacing the stock burned out plastic diff gear with an aluminum Robinson Gear. Now the diff is tight.
However, with acceleration, the truck doesn't get moving until I am at half throttle. Under full acceleration, it seems sluggish and doesn't want to hit top speed. The spur gear isn't moving either and the mesh is correct with the clutch bell. So, I have to think it's the clutch. I rebuilt the clutch assembly, roughed up the shoes with some fine sandpaper and cleaned it with denatured alcohol. It's better, but still not grabbing like it should. My old HPI RS4v2 with the same engine hooked up quickly and evenly so I don't think it's the engine.

Is this normal for a teflon shoe? Why teflon? Why would you make something that is supposed to be grippy out of the lowest coefficient of friction material? I only have three tanks of gas through the XXXNT. Will this improve? Any suggestions?
thanks

I think your slipper is too loose as well. You should tighten it down a little before trying anything else. Tighten it in 1/8th turn increments.


AreCee- Yea, isn't that what we are in the hobby for? To have fun not just to win. I think everyone kind of gets caught up with just winning and not having fun.


maxman142001- Yes I do know him. Do you know him from somewhere?


WED-I think Im getting alot of forward bite and a good deal of side bite not as much as Id like but enough. Some people are running holeshots. Most of the time those work good but they are too expensive for me and they Im not sure if they are really better than the bowties. Ive run the red step pins untill I got the bowties. They were very similar in handling to the bowties on my track. Most of the time the track is Hard packed and fairly dry. And has about medium traction. Both work well but either I don't have enough racing experience to tell an advantage or there isn't really one. I run bowties though because they are just as good as the step pins IMO(on my track). You race in ohio don't you?

[Got Speed]

nitrobdboy- What is your track like? Dry, Wet, Hard Packed, Loose, ect? The best thing to start with is what most of the other guys are running especially the people that are winning. As a general rule Losi tires are for wet tracks Pro Line tires are for dry tracks. If it is a high speed track and you get a lot of role you can move your shocks(especially the rears) to a more horizontal angle. There are alot of things you can do but it has to be adjusted to your track. Give us some info on it and/or ask the people winning at your track.


Originally posted by winning edge designs
Forgot to mention, on a blue groove track, the other tires that are usually pretty awesome are the TeamLosi Reptiles and the T Bones, in Red compounds. For shorter mains like 10 minutes or so on a hard pack track I usually end up with Holeshots in M3....Jim

Ive never run on a blue groove track before. Is there a huge difference in traction between the blue groove and the high traction track?

[jdm3849]

I don't think that it's the guys slipper that is adjusted wrong because he said that the spur is not moving, and in order to have the slipper to slip the spur has to move.

JMO

[maxman142001]

gotspeed-ya i know him from srs and Hobbybench. I guess he is sponsored by Ass. right now.:)

[Got Speed]

jdm3849- I didn't really catch that. But if his spur isn't moving then his truck isn't moving. freeflap what do you mean by not moving?


maxman142001- Do you race at SRS? Ive seen him at hobby bench too. Ive never really noticed if he races anything other than his white B3, do you know?

[winning edge designs]

Got Speed, a blue groove track is where there is a very hard surface and the tires and traction compound actually start to leave rubber on the clay. You can look at the correct line around the track and see a darker, or "Blue Groove", usually about 18-24 inches wide or more. I have raced on tracks with a blue groove in several different stages. The lowest traction being a little dusty and having decent traction. The best being so hooked up we ran slicks and I was pulling wheelies in Mod 4w drive!...2w and truck would flip over backwards if you were too heavy on the gas!

I prefer an old school style track, with roosts being kicked up and track deterioration being a factor........Step pin style tracks!....Jim

[freeflap]

thanks for the responses.
Yes, jdm3849, my spur gear and clutch bell are NOT moving. Hence, it is not the slipper.
If the slipper were too loose, the bell and spur would spin but the car wouldn't go. Also, my diff is correctly tightened so that's not it either.

When I apply the throttle, the engine revs up, but the clutch doesn't engage until ~1/2 throttle. The spur and bell are not moving at all below this point.
I have tried roughing up the shoe with fine sandpaper and cleaning with alcohol. If fuel spills onto the clutch, will that cause it to slip too much? Wouldn't running it hard "burn off" the oil on the clutch? Is there another option instead of the teflon shoes?

What I want to know is if anyone has had a similar experience when first breaking in the truck. thanks

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by winning edge designs
Got Speed, a blue groove track is where there is a very hard surface and the tires and traction compound actually start to leave rubber on the clay. You can look at the correct line around the track and see a darker, or "Blue Groove", usually about 18-24 inches wide or more. I have raced on tracks with a blue groove in several different stages. The lowest traction being a little dusty and having decent traction. The best being so hooked up we ran slicks and I was pulling wheelies in Mod 4w drive!...2w and truck would flip over backwards if you were too heavy on the gas!

I prefer an old school style track, with roosts being kicked up and track deterioration being a factor........Step pin style tracks!....Jim

Wow, I knew the blue groove was from the rubber being layed out on the ground but I didn't know it was like that. That's insane. lol.

I like that kind of track too but I like the hard packed stuff as well. Things like The Dirt in hemet california.


freeflap- Does the truck roll smoothly when you push it?

[rccarman5]

ok i'm having troubles here. i'm trying to find 4 screws for the rear battery box that wont take .050 size hex, it's too small. i want it to be 1/16th but i dont know what this is in fractions. (.078) i know it's 78/1000 but can tat reduce, it would just be wat i said earlier, help me out here someone, thanks.

[WheelNut]

Just drill the holes out using a 3/32'' drill bit and use regular 4-40 cap head screws. At a length of about 3/8''.

[rccarman5]

my question is, will it clear the top battery case? the screw head might be so big tat i will have to do some mod to the top case. but i got it. i can get a screw: 1/2", 5/64" hex key size, and it's the same size as the previous stock screw. just a reg socket head but with a larger hex key size.

[winning edge designs]

Freeflap, fuel in the clutch will not burn out before the shoes are worn out. In fact if your shoes have begun to melt from slipping they may actually be getting lighter. This will worsen your problem further, since the shoes will need more rpm to open the spring! If it takes 1/2 throttle to get the clutch engaged you definatly need to open that thing up and change out a couple parts. I'd install new shoes, clutch spring and look very carefully for binding on the flywheel, etc. Then roughen up the clutch bell surface and clean with electric motor spray or Orion nitro wash(my fave). This you set you up....Let us know.


Got Speed, I like loose fluff better, but all tracks are fun, I just love to race. The problem with high bite is everyone can lay down all the power they have and mistakes come easier because of it. Traffic is more trouble, etc. But I still say no matter what, let's race!

rccarman5, yes it will clear, the .050 tiny screws button head is about the same size as a 4/40 cap head screws head. Just stay away from a button head 4/40 and you'll be fine..........Jim

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by winning edge designs



Got Speed, I like loose fluff better, but all tracks are fun, I just love to race. The problem with high bite is everyone can lay down all the power they have and mistakes come easier because of it. Traffic is more trouble, etc. But I still say no matter what, let's race!



Yea, where there isn't any place you can nail the throttle. BTW: what engine are you running?

That's how I feel about it though. Whatever it is I just want to race!

[winning edge designs]

Gotspeed, Right now i'm running Orion Wasp, it's been awesome so far! I have run all of them except a novarossi. From a CV-R, CV, Hyper, RB, Picco, Wasp, Dynamite(Paris),etc. So far the Wasp is close in tuning with the O.S. but way more power. I still give the carb edge to O.S., but on decent tracks the Orion motor will smoke the O.S.!.......Jim

[rccarman5]

i found it. it's a socket cap head, with a 2-56 thread(same as the stock button) but uses a 5/64 key size. and it's 1/2" long. i can get them in packs of 50 and dont know wat to do with the rest?! lol. once i get them and anyone interested in some. let me know.

[Temjin006]

Hi

I just got a XXX-NT for christmas. I want to know what tires are good for street playing which will give me good traction and control. I dont want to use the stock tires cause i want to save them when I do go to an offroad track. I am think about getting some proline tires because my LHS has alot of proline.

[Racin Rev]

Originally posted by Temjin006
Hi

I just got a XXX-NT for christmas. I want to know what tires are good for street playing which will give me good traction and control. I dont want to use the stock tires cause i want to save them when I do go to an offroad track. I am think about getting some proline tires because my LHS has alot of proline.
go for it:)

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by winning edge designs
Gotspeed, Right now i'm running Orion Wasp, it's been awesome so far! I have run all of them except a novarossi. From a CV-R, CV, Hyper, RB, Picco, Wasp, Dynamite(Paris),etc. So far the Wasp is close in tuning with the O.S. but way more power. I still give the carb edge to O.S., but on decent tracks the Orion motor will smoke the O.S.!.......Jim

Cool. Do you race on one of the loose tracks like we were talking about? If so how do you put the power down?! I can't even put all my CV-Rs power down and it is still a pretty high traction track.

[RCRACER2471]

Are they any parts that i should invest in for the XNT that can helpful when my car is used for bashing??? Thanx.

[BlueBlaster01]

RPM bumper,Lunsford Titanitum Turn Buckles,RPM ends...

[maxman142001]

Gotspeed-Ya I have raced at SRS, but havent gone since school started. Planning to go this weekend with my new cv-r .12. Billy said he was going to race his GT over at Hot Rod in a couple of weeks.:)

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by maxman142001
Gotspeed-Ya I have raced at SRS, but havent gone since school started. Planning to go this weekend with my new cv-r .12. Billy said he was going to race his GT over at Hot Rod in a couple of weeks.:)

Cool, Ill be there this weekend too. What does your car look like? Mine is blue, red with silver lighting and red wheels. What class are you going to enter? Hot Rod? The one in Saugus CA or a different one?

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by maxman142001
Gotspeed-Ya I have raced at SRS, but havent gone since school started. Planning to go this weekend with my new cv-r .12. Billy said he was going to race his GT over at Hot Rod in a couple of weeks.:)

Cool, Ill be there this weekend too. What does your car look like? Id post a pic of mine but if I reduce them to 64k they aren't clear enough to bother with. Mine is blue, red with silver lighting and red wheels. What class are you going to enter? Hot Rod? The one in Saugus CA or a different one?

[RCRACER2471]

Hey i need your guyz help right away. Im still in the process of building my car and im trying to get the set screw into the two brake capiler mounting holes. And it seem to me that these things arent goin in two far considering i almost stipped my screw will the alen wrench the size of a tooth pick. Did u use any other methods of getting these two screw in. Because its not worth to replace two set screws because of my wrong doing. Any help or tips would be great!!! Thanx

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by RCRACER2471
Hey i need your guyz help right away. Im still in the process of building my car and im trying to get the set screw into the two brake capiler mounting holes. And it seem to me that these things arent goin in two far considering i almost stipped my screw will the alen wrench the size of a tooth pick. Did u use any other methods of getting these two screw in. Because its not worth to replace two set screws because of my wrong doing. Any help or tips would be great!!! Thanx

I am using a 3/32" cap head bolt in mine. Adjusts easier no pain with putting the nut on the end of the threaded shaft.

[banditwing]

Did you use the thread cutting screw? It doesn't go all the way in you know, you might actually have it corect and think that you are doing something wrong. Try going onto the next step to see if it is the right depth screwed in.

I just replaced the battery box screws with the 3/32 screws, and wow, its a lot easier to fasten now, and i dont have to worry about stripping screws!

[RCRACER2471]

Im using the thread cutting screw and the allen wrench you have to use is so small its stipping the set screw. Did any of you have problems with this or is it just me because i dont want to go any further until i know what im doin

[DsWright]

If you don't have a good set of hobby tools, stop what your doing and go buy a set. i bought a dynamite set for about 20$ that has .050, 3-32,5-64,1-16 those are the 4 sizes you need for the XXX-NT.

Once i bought a good set of tools i have not stripped even one screw.

After you get some good quality tools you will thank yourself, the allen wrenches that came with my kit went right into the garbage, still in the plastic=)

[winning edge designs]

Got speed, I travel a little, or did alot last year anyhow. Most tracks i've been to have good traction. The closest track is boggy creek near Kissimmee and it is hooked up! They are holding the first east coast R/C Pro points series race there, in Late February, for 03' season! Should be a blast!........On looser tracks i'm using Alot of negative exponential. In fact i'm at -70 from my last race with it!.................ttyl, Jim

[freeflap]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by winning edge designs
[B]Freeflap, fuel in the clutch will not burn out before the shoes are worn out. In fact if your shoes have begun to melt from slipping they may actually be getting lighter. This will worsen your problem further, since the shoes will need more rpm to open the spring! If it takes 1/2 throttle to get the clutch engaged you definatly need to open that thing up and change out a couple parts. I'd install new shoes, clutch spring and look very carefully for binding on the flywheel, etc. Then roughen up the clutch bell surface and clean with electric motor spray or Orion nitro wash(my fave). This you set you up....Let us know.

Thanks. That's what I wanted to know. Fortunately, I have the spare parts bag with the extra clutch shoe and spring. Will reclean and give it a shot this weekend. Does anyone recommend another clutch shoe option?

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by winning edge designs
Got speed, I travel a little, or did alot last year anyhow. Most tracks i've been to have good traction. The closest track is boggy creek near Kissimmee and it is hooked up! They are holding the first east coast R/C Pro points series race there, in Late February, for 03' season! Should be a blast!........On looser tracks i'm using Alot of negative exponential. In fact i'm at -70 from my last race with it!.................ttyl, Jim

That's cool. That's alot of exponential. Dang -70! lol:p

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by freeflap
[QUOTE]Originally posted by winning edge designs
[B]Freeflap, fuel in the clutch will not burn out before the shoes are worn out. In fact if your shoes have begun to melt from slipping they may actually be getting lighter. This will worsen your problem further, since the shoes will need more rpm to open the spring! If it takes 1/2 throttle to get the clutch engaged you definatly need to open that thing up and change out a couple parts. I'd install new shoes, clutch spring and look very carefully for binding on the flywheel, etc. Then roughen up the clutch bell surface and clean with electric motor spray or Orion nitro wash(my fave). This you set you up....Let us know.

Thanks. That's what I wanted to know. Fortunately, I have the spare parts bag with the extra clutch shoe and spring. Will reclean and give it a shot this weekend. Does anyone recommend another clutch shoe option?

Didn't see your post. Drake uses the MIP clutch. Why don't know probably because it is easier to adjust. I havn't had problems with my clutch setup neither do most people as long as you keep stuff out of it.

[Rc_madd]

Hello all,

I am selling my XXXNT with lots of extras here is the ebay item Number

3105926066

If you are intrested please email me to make a offer at
gr8seller@mtsinet.com

There is 9 pairs of tires Mip 360 stinger pipe (new in package) plus others

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by maxman142001
Gotspeed-Ya I have raced at SRS, but havent gone since school started. Planning to go this weekend with my new cv-r .12. Billy said he was going to race his GT over at Hot Rod in a couple of weeks.:)

Actually it looks like I won't be there saturday. Next saturday though. How about you?

[Locus]

I've been upgrading my XXX-NT RTR recently and it's looking good. Got majority graphite parts now with the lunsford hinge pin/turnbuckle and rpm ball cups.

The question I have is when reading my RTR manual, both turnbuckles in the front are 2-1/4" long, but the lunsford kit comes with (2) 2-1/4" and (2) 2-1/2". So what gives here? Which go where???

Also wanting some advice on a good racing pipe to give me a little more power? Any sugestions and websites with good prices?

Thanks!

[Got Speed]

The longer turnbuckles go in the rear.

The CVEC pipes are awesome because of their adjustability and their performance, but are not legal for racing.

[Locus]

Originally posted by Locus
I've been upgrading my XXX-NT RTR recently and it's looking good. Got majority graphite parts now with the lunsford hinge pin/turnbuckle and rpm ball cups.

The question I have is when reading my RTR manual, both turnbuckles in the front are 2-1/4" long, but the lunsford kit comes with (2) 2-1/4" and (2) 2-1/2". So what gives here? Which go where???

Also wanting some advice on a good racing pipe to give me a little more power? Any sugestions and websites with good prices?

Thanks!

Got Speed - The Lunsford set I bought has the following:

2 - 2 1/4" Turnbuckles
2 - 2 1/2" Turnbuckles
2 - 2 7/8" Turnbuckles

I believe that the 2 7/8" go in the rear, but which ones go where on the front??

[OutKast]

Hey, i bought some ti turnbuckles and ball cups, and am having some trouble putting the ball cups onto the turnbuckle. i know one side is threaded left, and the other right. its just i cant get the turnbuckle to thread into the ball cup straight. it always goes in crooked. i was wondering if anyone could give me some insight on this, since i dont really want to cross thread the plastic cups? and is there any way to adjust the turnbuckles properly with out buying a camber/toe gauge?

Also, i recently aquired a air filter from an adam drake kit. The paper kind, i was wondering if i need to oil it or not? or oil the pre foam? and since it is so small(compared to the rtr air filter) is it ok to use with my mach .15?

thanks.

[winning edge designs]

Locus, the shortest turnbuckles are for the steering links. The longest for the rear, so the middle length will be camber. They may be longer to engage more threads in the ball cup then stock, or because the team drivers use longer links and different camber ballstud holes.


Outkast, There is a tool made by racers edge I believe, that holds TeamLosi, RPM and A/E ballcups all in one. It can be done with a good pair of pliers and the turnbuckle wrench, but as you've found out it's an aquired ability, :). For camber I have an RPM gauge, but it's sometimes hard to find, LOL. In a pinch i've used a soda can or roll of tape, etc. Anything that is flat or even close just to compare right and left. Set it against the outside edge of the tires on the car. Look for the distance to have both upper and lower part of the tire touching the surface. If the top has a space about 1/8 inch you're at about 2-3 degrees, if it has 1/16th you're nearer to 1 degree, etc................Hope this helps, JIm

[maxman142001]

Gotspeed-My xxx-nt is the rtr with CV-R .12 has graphite colored body. I plan to race novice only. I am not sure either, may have to go up to Wickenburg and learn how to drive my 1989 Volvo 5-speed instead. Ya the one in Ca. Hot Rod Hobbies.

Hope to see you at the track

[AreCee]

OutKast: NEVER oil the paper element if you want the filter to last. Oil the foam pre-filter only and squeeze out the extra oil before slipping it over the paper. This is a real effective filter and works the same as on motorcycles and dune buggies.

[OutKast]

alright, i have the cups on my turnbuckles....lol not easy but there on. now its just the adjustments im having trouble with. would it be easier to do with out my tires on? just rims? because i just bought some rims and tires but havent glued them yet? does anyone know of a website that could help me on this? thnaks.

[team_luigis]

if anyone sell one
here is my email
hpi_team_costas@hotmail.com

[Trevor280z]

Originally posted by Got Speed
The longer turnbuckles go in the rear.

The CVEC pipes are awesome because of their adjustability and their performance, but are not legal for racing.

i disagree. cvecs are more of an onroad pipe even if you do set it at 5 or 1. Dynamites competition pipe is good, AE's is really good, and AD edition is good

[winning edge designs]

Outkast, it would be easier with only the rims on the truck, but can be done with the tires on as well. You'll only need to be carefull of tire distortion when doing it with the tires on. The way I do that is rolling the tire to a few different spots while testing the clearances.

If you want to save a bundle you can get the paper filters at auto parts stores for .59 cents each. They are short GM fuel filters for carbureted cars pre-85. The rubber neck and pre-filters only come from TeamLosi....Jim

[Got Speed]

maxman142001- Cool, hopefully Ill see you there next saturday. Ill enter the novice class too. How well do you drive?

Trevor280z- I like my drake pipe but the CVECs from what Ive seen of them especially 1/8th scales buggys are just insane. The difference it makes is unbelievable. At lease in 1/8th scale.

[Locus]

Anyone point me in the direction to locate a website that shows the following:

Tire Types - styles (ex. Losi Taper,Losi 8-rided, Proline, Panther)
- color (red & silver)
- when to race which tires

Shock Springs - colors (soft to stiff)

Thanks!

[Locus]

Originally posted by Locus
I've been upgrading my XXX-NT RTR recently and it's looking good. Got majority graphite parts now with the lunsford hinge pin/turnbuckle and rpm ball cups.

The question I have is when reading my RTR manual, both turnbuckles in the front are 2-1/4" long, but the lunsford kit comes with (2) 2-1/4" and (2) 2-1/2". So what gives here? Which go where???

Also wanting some advice on a good racing pipe to give me a little more power? Any sugestions and websites with good prices?

Thanks!

What about the Paris Racing Pipe???? Any good feedback on this pipe???

[OldskoolGT]

I think the Paris pipe is a bit soft on the bottom end, but the midrange and top is not bad. Might work OK for you since you have a .15 engine.

[winning edge designs]

Locua, TEamLosi has a tire chart, but it only shows thier tires and conditions for them...........Jim

[Racin Rev]

Originally posted by winning edge designs
Outkast, it would be easier with only the rims on the truck, but can be done with the tires on as well. You'll only need to be carefull of tire distortion when doing it with the tires on. The way I do that is rolling the tire to a few different spots while testing the clearances.

If you want to save a bundle you can get the paper filters at auto parts stores for .59 cents each. They are short GM fuel filters for carbureted cars pre-85. The rubber neck and pre-filters only come from TeamLosi....Jim

I use the automotive paper filters as well but I do have one caution. Be sure that the filter doesn't have a little plastic check valve stuck in it. some of them are sold that way. It comes out easily enough but the consequences of not removing it are dire. can you guess how i know this? :eek: :eek: :eek: After vapor locking for about 15 min and burning out the motors on the starter stand, and replacing 3 glow plugs and shortening the life of the motor, I finally pulled the filter off and turned it over and said "whats this?" OOps! :rolleyes:

for checking caster and toe I use a little gauge I bought at the hardware store. It has a flat bottom (with a magnet I could do without) It has degrees marked out around the gauge and a gravity activated dial which always points down. It is cheap and does what I need it to do.