Team Losi XXXNT forum 4.0

[winning edge designs]

Racin Rev, good point. That valve is to help keep fuel in the carb bowl of a 1:1 engines carb which helps avoid extended cranking in the a.m. Some of them come with the valve (a small black soft plastic insert with a flap/lid on it), some do not.

Oldskool, I agree on the paris pipe, but my main concern was it's too stinkin' quiet. It made my truck sound like it had a factory muffler, i'm looking for a Flowmaster style sound, LOL......Jim

[Locus]

Originally posted by winning edge designs
Locua, TEamLosi has a tire chart, but it only shows thier tires and conditions for them...........Jim

Winning Edge - Is there a website where I can see this chart?

[dkj-M3]

Team Losi Tire Guide (http://www.teamlosi.com/newprod/tirechart/tirechart.htm)

Panther tires (http://www.panthertire.com/sitemap.htm)

shocks - I believe it is:

white - soft
grey
yellow
pink
red
orange
silver - hard

thats off the top of my head so, correct me if i'm wrong.

[Locus]

Thanks to everyone who's given me feeback on my questions. I'll look over the turnbuckles tonight and make sure I have them set up correctly.

When adding the RPM ballcups to the turnbuckles what is the best way to ensure you build them correclty? Should I measure them/compare them to the factory ballcups/turnbuckles that came with the truck?

[OutKast]

for checking caster and toe I use a little gauge I bought at the hardware store. It has a flat bottom (with a magnet I could do without) It has degrees marked out around the gauge and a gravity activated dial which always points down. It is cheap and does what I need it to do. [/B][/QUOTE]

The guage your talking about, that you can get from your hardware store. do you know what it is used for originally? im looking for a cheap alternative that is availible where i live, you see i have only one LHS in my area and all they have is boat stuff...lol which sucks. and i would really like to have a guage that works. thanks.

[Trevor280z]

when i screw in my clutch nut..about 2 threads in the crank starts to turn with it and i have no way of stopping it. I dont really want to spend money on a crank locking tool. anyone have a secret to doing this?

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Trevor280z
when i screw in my clutch nut..about 2 threads in the crank starts to turn with it and i have no way of stopping it. I dont really want to spend money on a crank locking tool. anyone have a secret to doing this?

Hold the flywheel with pliers while you screw the clutch nut on further.

[winning edge designs]

Trevor, sometimes there are burrs on the clutch nut threads. I've seen some bad enough they needed to be tapped. Most can be convinced to thread on with a little cleaning using an exacto knife and some patience....Jim

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Trevor280z
when i screw in my clutch nut..about 2 threads in the crank starts to turn with it and i have no way of stopping it. I dont really want to spend money on a crank locking tool. anyone have a secret to doing this?

Is it actually stopping like WED said? Or is it just getting harder to turn?

[Racin Rev]

OutKast,
The item you are looking for is a magnetic protractor. The one I have came from Ace and has their name on it, though I am sure they are common. They are used for building (carpentry). I don't remember what it cost but not much.

I use new (straight) wheels to test the camber and then turn the car on its side so that the bottom wheel is flush with the table and measure the top. it is easy. doing rear toe on an 1/8 scale is a bit more challengeing, i hold the car straight up on the rear wheels and measure that way. It helps to have three hands. :p

You are lucky, I had to go down two flights of stars to look at it to tell what it is called. why you are lucky is that I came back instead of sitting down and tweeking a little (my wife hates it when i do that). :p ;) :p :eek:

[DsWright]

Another alternative to a piston locking tool is to force it to hydrolock....

Get an old glowplug and some after run oil, put the piston just short of TDC but on the part of the stroke on the way to it, fill the chamber with oil through the glowplug, then install the glowplug, it should give you enough resistance to screw on your clutchnut but it will also allow enough to flow through if you torque to hard on it to avoid engine dmg=)

Careful though if it rotates around to where the ehxaust port opens it can get messy=) but that is not to hard to avoid=)

[DsWright]

Also MIP offers inexpensive camber guages and toe guages for 1/10th offroad.

i use thier camber guage and toe guage both, spent less than 18$ on both=)

[OutKast]

Alright thanks alot, ill go and look for one of those soon. if not i guess ill just have to break down and order one online :mad: thanks again.

[Trevor280z]

still no luck.. i think my collet is bad now because when i hold the flywheel down with vicegrips the engine still turns over.. i blew through the clutch nut to clear out any debrice(sp) but im starting to think that the threadlocking compoud has done this.

[jdm3849]

I don't know trevor but good luck.

I broke a ballstud yesterday (3rd one). I set up my plastic kicker ramp in front of a ledge and i had to come at the jump at an angle and in mid-air it would turn and land sideways, no matter which way I turned the wheels in the air. After landing on my rear right wheel about 20 times it finnally snapped. Are the kit ballstuds different than the sport ones? Cause i have the sport ones and they seem really weak cause 2 out of 3 of them broke when putting them back in. They are only 4bux for 4 so i'll give them a try and if they don't work I will get Ti.

Do you guys think that the graphite parts are less prone to breaking than the stiffizel and RTR?

I am looking at the Fantom FR15 with rotary and pullstart. Looks like an awesome deal. And do you know if the ABSC fantom's will cost more than the ABC?

If I get a paper element air filter will it require more maitnence than the foam one that comes with the sport? I want an awesome looking filter, like chromed out and metal just for looks. Where can I get a good one that looks nice? How much will it be? Thanks!

BTW, this RPM big bumper is working great! I have landed on the nose so many times from trying to jump the bird feeder I lost count, I have rolled into trees and run into curbs, it keeps on workin.

A few days ago there was a bad occasion where my wheels met a clothes line pole and it snapped an arm, but luckily I had a spare so no worry. I was going fast and I expect nothing better.

[AreCee]

jdm3849 wrote: "Cause i have the sport ones and they seem really weak cause 2 out of 3 of them broke when putting them back in. They are only 4bux for 4 so i'll give them a try and if they don't work I will get Ti."

The Ti will recover from flexing better than the steel ball studs. Another trick is to use captured ball rod ends like those made by Parma.


"Do you guys think that the graphite parts are less prone to breaking than the stiffizel and RTR?"

Graphite is lighter and stiffer but more fragile than stiffzel. The RTR material is more flexible than stiffzel and will be more break resistant.

"I am looking at the Fantom FR15 with rotary and pullstart. Looks like an awesome deal. And do you know if the ABSC fantom's will cost more than the ABC?"

Look up the prices at http://www.stormerhobbies.com/ . The 2002 FR series used ABSC and the new 2003 FR series are ABC. The rotary carb only has two needles (Stormer is quoting incorrectly).

"If I get a paper element air filter will it require more maitnence than the foam one that comes with the sport? I want an awesome looking filter, like chromed out and metal just for looks. Where can I get a good one that looks nice? How much will it be? Thanks!"

It will require about the same maintenance since it has a foam pre-filter which needs to be cleaned and oiled. As for the style and price, look it up at different vendor's sites. Try Racer's Edge or Ofna for the chrome bling-bling.

[winning edge designs]

TRevor, if you have dried thread lock in there it will be tuff to get started. You'll need to soak the part in mineral spirits, or acetone for a few hours. Then add fresh loctite and thread it on while wet.

Outkast( and others), be carefull with piston locking tools and even "hydro-locking". It is much safer to hold the flywheel after snugging the parts with a flywheel wrench or pliers. Remember that when you use tools or methods as above you are applying full force of your twist to the connecting rod......that tiny peice of aluminum about an 1/8th inch thick, yup, that one......I've seen them destroyed by a piston locking tool and too much force.....Jim

[racer13]

i have broken about 15 parts of that stiffzel stuff that comes with the RTR'S.. only thing i've broken now (since replaced with graphite) is 1 a-arm. I say the graphite is much stronger, stiffer, and less prone to breaking.

[rccarman5]

ok i have a problem, i'm' running a xtm. 15 engien. and it's configuration requires me to rout my throttle linkage under the horn. will somone talk to me on some sort of instant messaging system so i can talk to u about it and hwo u got it to work by opening and closing like it sould. thanks.


AIM- radiocontrolhead

[Locus]

I recently bought a drake differential off of ebay to have as a second differential for my truck. I have the RTR now and I'm unsure as to how to build this diff with the washers instead of the spring on my RTR. Can someone either scan and email the info on the drake diff build out or type them out here so I can build this correclty. thanks!

[OutKast]

I just got my Race Guard Failsafe today, and need some help with installation. Im not sure what i need, or how to go abot installing it? And also how do i remove the the front hinge pin on the suspension arm? thanks alot for your time.

[Trevor280z]

i figured it out.. dont ask me how it got like this but the first 3 or so threads on my crank were reversed meaning going in the wrong direction.. i have no clue. but i had an extra crankshaft so my truck is in working order now

[RCRACER2471]

i have a weird question for you and its about the transmission. Im on transmission part of builing the car. Just before i mount it on the car i wanted to know if its ok when you spin the spur gear it freely rotates and stops in one position. Should it freely spin or is this normal???

[banditwing]

I'm pretty sure the drake differential is the same as the regular kit's differential, between the rtr diff and standard diff the only reall diffrence is the bellivile (sp?) washers. I believe you are supposed to put 12 of the washers all facing one way (in not sure if its facing in or out) and do everything the same way. I have one, but I haven't built it with washers, i built it with the rtr spring, so I'm sorry cant help you much there.

I have used the graphite and the stiffizel, and i can say that they are much stronger than my rtr material was for sure!! I say you should go either with graphite or stiffezel than the rtr stuff that breaks easily.

[RCRACER2471]

yea im not sure about the washers part of it. In the manual it said to put 6 one way and 6 the other way. And then in the bag that came with the parts it had a piece of paper saying that they should all be facing the same way. Which one is right???

[OldskoolGT]

The little piece of paper is right. All the washers should face the same way. Or better yet, use the AE GT diff spring.

[RCRACER2471]

K Thanx I bet that was the cause of the problem. So why in the maunal did they put 6 washers facing one way and 6 facing the other. And then they have it where on the piece of paper it tells to have them facing the same way. Im confused. :confused:

[Got Speed]

OutKast- I don't know about the fail safe but to get the hinge pin out you must take off one of the e-clips carefully with needle nose pliers or screwdriver(with something to catch it with). Then just push it out with a small screwdriver or allen wrench.

RCRACER2471- Don't know why the directions say two different things but I know that some people run them 6 one way 6 the other and some people run them facing out and some people run them facing in.

[rccarman5]

rcracer, they made the piece of paper becasue it's easier to do tat instead of reprint a whole new manul with just a few correction. there was another thing with a piece of paper, cant think of it now. but the paper is right because it would cost way too much to reprint the whole manual with just a little edit.

[RCRACER2471]

Got Speed, is it ok the way i have it or do i have to make all 12 washers facing the same way. Because i can tell thats gona be a big pain. Also is the slipper supossed to move smoothly. Im asking this again since no one answered. At one part when im turning it stops and then it goes agiain. My friend said this is normal where the gears are supossed to slip before they get into gear. Is this true?? Sorry for such long quesitons

[winning edge designs]

rcracer2471, the diff thrust spring washers face this way, Nut and retainer<<<<<<<<<<<< Outdrive, DIFF Gear.

The "adendum" is correct. They origionally thought it would be best to have twice as much adjustment range and 1/2 the pressure, similar to the associated diff spring. But later found the diff responded better to 1/2 the adjustment range and twice the pressure. When the washers face each other <>(15 in lbs), they do not add pressure as they do facing the same way<<(30 in lbs).
Besides that the adjustment range is approximately 1/8 turn now, versus 3/16ths or so the older method. But with twice the pressure, even as the parts seat in, if a customer isn't carefull about adjusting it, the diff will survive longer then with the old method.

The tranny gears may feel a little coarse and even tighten slightly when new, as they are rolled. After a few tanks they should free up and break, or seat in nicely........Jim

[Got Speed]

RCRACER2471- You can use it that way but it is much better with them all facing the same direction. I don't think it matter much about which way but Im not sure(I just know some people run them oposite of the directions. Like winning edge designs said they will feel a little rough but as long as the slipper slips and not the diff when turning the wheel fast(or hard) your fine.

WED- Do you let your diff strip out before you rebuild it? I wouldn't think it would be a good idea. How often do you rebuild yours?

[Trevor280z]

my starter box must not have enough torque. its the duratrax blue 1/10 scale. when i put my truck on it, the starter flywheel turn hits the regular flywheel but it doesnt turn it over. When i had my engine off i put it on there and i had to really press down to actually make the engine turn over. but thats starting to put a reversed mo-hawk in my starter fly. anyone know any good motors that would actaully do the job.. i was thinking the 1/8 scale motors from the duratrax 1/8 universal..

[winning edge designs]

Gotspeed, I always rebiuld my diff when it starts to feel crunchy, or gritty. Kind of a dry feeling, but long before it strips out or melts. I've gotten as much as 3 gallons on a diff now, just by allowing the slipper to do it's job. Also being carefull about the diff's adjustment and slippers as well.

Trevor, I like the bigger motors myself. Never had any luck with the 540 or even 550 twin type boxes. Worse in 1/8th scale btw.......Jim

[Trevor280z]

so a 750 i think it is would be good? what about my batteries.. i have 6 cell duratrax sharks 1500mah.

[winning edge designs]

trevor, I'm using a sealed lead acid battery I purchased from a local battery supplier, named Royal battery in Kissimmee Florida. There may be one near you as well, they are similar to motorcycle batteries. Even thought they make slightly lower voltage then 2- 6 cell R/C packs, they don't dump Nearly as fast.........Jim

[rccarman5]

gell cell is the only way to go. make sure u also pick up a charger.

[BlueBlaster01]

Heres the pictures, we have a few sets made. Still doing some testing though!

Noss Aluminum Front Suspension Arms (http://www.nossmachine.com/250r.htm)

http://www.nossmachine.com/rc1.jpg
http://www.nossmachine.com/rc2.jpg

AS I said before, we are still in the testing phase, so please don't call YET to order them! ;) They are extremely close weight wise, not even detectable on a postal scale!

[RiPPiNiTuP7]

Originally posted by BlueBlaster01
Heres the pictures, we have a few sets made. Still doing some testing though!

Noss Aluminum Front Suspension Arms (http://www.nossmachine.com/250r.htm)

http://www.nossmachine.com/rc1.jpg
http://www.nossmachine.com/rc2.jpg

AS I said before, we are still in the testing phase, so please don't call YET to order them! ;) They are extremely close weight wise, not even detectable on a postal scale!

I know the next thing I'm buying for my XXX-NT :D

[RCRACER2471]

how much do they go for??? Im interested!!

[BlueBlaster01]

We don't have a set price yet, they will be in the $25-35 range, maybe even less if there is a big enough demand.

[rccarman5]

those are so nice. owwwwwww the power of a cnc machine. so many things, so many nice things.:(

[RCRACER2471]

Hey Guyz, im in trouble and im almost done building my car too. Did any of you have a hard time screw the screw in the chassis, because the one especially in the back in the transmission are hard to turn in. I had to buy new alen wrenches because the ones that came with it broke. And then those broke. And soon im going to strip the screws. Did any you guys have an easier way of avoiding this. Its starting to become a real pain. Also can you use the same size screw and instead have them be phillips head. Thanx

[Philly's Finest]

Originally posted by jdm3849
I want an awesome looking filter, like chromed out and metal just for looks. Where can I get a good one that looks nice? How much will it be? Thanks!



Jim check out the K&N filters. I'm looking for the same thing as you and I'm thinking of picking one up. Acehardwarehobbies carry them but the site is down right now. Check them out.

[winning edge designs]

rcracer2471, have you used the gold 4/40 self tapping screw that comes in the kit? You can also use some white assembly/diff lube on the threads of each screw going into plastic parts.....In fact use both for well cut threads, then it'll go together like butta.

It may also help to get some higher quality allen tools, like the ones sold in Home Depot for $8-10, or the TeamLosi ones for $60 a set...?.......Jim

[BlueBlaster01]

So, what do you all think of the aluminum arms?

[winning edge designs]

In all honesty, i've never broken a stock set of front arms, they seem to be one of the more durable parts of the truck. And as with any modification, it will likely concentrate the crash in a different area, front pivot block, hub carrier, spindle, etc. The biggest problem i've ever had is an occasional ball cup...and a rear hub...once.
But as was already proven by the flood of aluminum parts for the T maxx people will buy em' and people will make em'. (Of course ALL those T maxx arms and towers,etc. are obsoleted by the new geometry now) ................Jim

[speedydave]

Originally posted by winning edge designs
(Of course ALL those T maxx arms and towers,etc. are obsoleted by the new geometry now) ................Jim

Except the SuperMaxx stuff! :D

[winning edge designs]

Are those the 1/8th scales with T maxx tires?.....A guy had a Native racing modified T maxx today running a .12 and maxy's fuel and he beat up on a couple of those .21 powered monsters...I guess the driving still has alot to do with it, but they looked like they were having alot of fun........Jim

[rccarman5]

rc racer, make sure that ur threading the screws in perpendicular and straight, also, if u rounded the edges up from previous use, it'll be hard for those screws to fit, and yes, my kit's bottom chassis screw(tranny) were a little tigh talso. but do apply some white greese to help it out. i also suggest u pick up one of those r/c tools, made by trinity, losi, etc. i think the best tool size to get is just a 1/16 since there are so many. and the most used. so i ordered one from stormer. my next will be a .050 since those driver do get expensive.

[grimlock3000]

i had some free time tonight so i sat down to check out my kit. i went right for the chassis and noticed rather quickly that my chassis is bent! :( when laying on a flat surface, it bows up in the middle ever so slightly. i took some pictures of it at rest and then after i applied some pressure to show the change. this animated gif tells the story:

http://users.clinic.net/~grimlock/chassis.gif

if the image does not animate, you can get the file here and view it with an image viewer:

http://users.clinic.net/~grimlock/chassis.gif

i tried this on multiple surfaces to verify it is the chassis. is this something i should be worried about or will everything sort itself out when i build the kit and be fine?

here is my total list of stuff so far. i have about half of the items currently, the rest is sitting in a shopping cart at tower waiting for me to purchase:

http://users.clinic.net/~grimlock/list.jpg

am i missing anything other than fuel??? should i change any items for something else? will the kit turnbuckle wrench worth with the lunsford turnbuckles?

everything to build this kit really added up faster than i expected it to. luckily my cost is minimal since the kit itself was and xmas present and i got a few hundred dollars from ebay by selling stuff i was not using anymore. i want to make sure i have the right stuff so when the snow melts i can be outside tossing up some mud :D

[rccarman5]

damn ur running a nice setup, i really like ur radio. also, a 500 cc spout would be better. it wastes rear guick, especiallya fast revving motro like urs.

[grimlock3000]

My last kit was an electric, I went cheap on it and was almost never satisfied. I wanted to upgrade everything before i had the kit for a week. In the end, I just sold everything after getting some nitro experience. This time around, I figured I would get all the neat stuff from the start since I would end up buying it anyway.

Unfortunately, I kept underestimating the total cost of the parts I was planning what to buy. If i could go back in time, I would likely have a much cheaper setup to start with (standard turnbuckles, AM radio, pull start engine, AA batteries for the recevier pack). Then I would have upgraded pieces here and there. Heck, for what I am spending on the above list, I could have purchased a T-Maxx 2.5 AND a RS4 3 RTR :eek:

I will get a 500cc fuel bottle, a 250cc did seem a bit small but I was not sure. Is there any place online that sells fuel by the gallon? One quart is not enough and four gallons is way too much for me.

[rccarman5]

ur lhs sould sell fuel to the gallon? mine does. quart would never be enough for me. also, did u pay full 270 for the xxxnt kit? cuz then ur budget must have been pretty hihg. i paid 160 at stormer on sale.

[grimlock3000]

The kit was $135 from Ultimate Hobbies.

I will see about getting some fuel locally next time I head to that area of the state. Usually I avoid the local places for a variey of reasons (basically I dislike driving 90 minutes to a shop that decided to close for the day or does not even want to help order parts for me).

[OldskoolGT]

Grimlock,

I was just looking at my chassis from my parts car, and it appears to be close to being flat, not nearly as bent as yours. All chassis get tweaked over time, so I wouldn't worry about it if the non-flatness is not too much. The forces acting on the car will actually bend the chassis the other way, so perhaps the problem will straighten itself out.

The reason fuel is not often sold by the gallon online is due to the hazmat costs for shipping 1 gallon of fuel ($20). If you have to pay the hazmat fee, you might as well get a case of fuel instead of 1 gallon.

[dkj-M3]

Grimlock- just make sure you call that shop before you go & tell'em to hold your fuel, b/c your coming from 90min away.

[Got Speed]

grimlock3000- If you can I would go with the pink ofna starter box. It will last you forever whereas the 1/10th scalw won't. A hitex 645 servo for steering instead of the 625 because of the extra torque(same price)

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by winning edge designs
Are those the 1/8th scales with T maxx tires?.....A guy had a Native racing modified T maxx today running a .12 and maxy's fuel and he beat up on a couple of those .21 powered monsters...I guess the driving still has alot to do with it, but they looked like they were having alot of fun........Jim

No, they are still T-maxxs. Unlimited Engineering makes Supermaxx parts. They are lightweight, extremely high quality, strong, parts. That make a SuperMaxx lol :p . They tottaly redesigned the suspension on them too.

[Locus]

Does anyone know anything about this engine?

Duratrax Torq .16

Good or Bad? Any feeback would great, Thanks!

Todd

[Trevor280z]

um.. it bogs a lot, its hard to keep it tuned, the one way bearing goes out a lot, i cant think of anything else

[banditwing]

My chassis was bent slightly. I tried bending it back, but man that 7075 is tough!!! Well with the upper chassis brace and tranny brace on, it flattened out. It wasnt to badly bent though, but on a flat surface it had some rock to it.

[Shady]

i just got a RB X12 and i need to get a manifold for it, all i have had is os that have the bolt on ones, whats the part number for the manifold that is held on with the springs? thanxs in advance

[dkj-M3]

Shady- A-9347 rear exaust header

[RCRACER2471]

What are good replacemnet tires for my truck?? I was thinkin about the Pro Line Dirt Works for off road. Do these fit and if they do, has anyone ever used them. I want a 2 pairs for on road tires and off road. For street i was thinkin the road hawg II. What do u think??

Winningedgedesigns, i did use the tapping screw and they were stil hard to screw in. Is there any kind of allen wrench sets that are like make of titanium or somethin so they wont keep breaking

[banditwing]

You need a hex driver. Try losi, associated, mip, thorp, dynamite, and trinity. I have a trinity and ae, both good hex drivers. All are around $7-13. I have heard good things about the dynamite ($7) and i think rpm has one that is cheap too...

I would stay away from the dirt hawgs, arent they that thing that supposedly is good offroad and on? For grass running, or general bashing offroad, dirt paws are good. I have them, and have a long wear. The TL smasher tire is also supposed to be good i think. I only say stay away from dirt hawgs because my friend has them, and after a few runs, they lose thier traction and you either have to buff them up or something, but on anything offroad there isnt much grip.

Or just get some good old step pins for offroad. I think gold compound is the hardest compound, im not sure.

-Banditwing

[winning edge designs]

gotspeed, I got ya.

rcracer2471, Go with the brand name drivers, in 1/16th and you should be ok with the other size allen keys for now. But you should still use white grease on the threads the first time you screw into any plastic, even with a good tool and a tapping bolt.

If you need some sweet tires TemLosi makes a ton of the best tires around! The LST T-90 is an on-road only tire, part #A7690R for red or S for silver. They have dual purpose tires now as well, called smashers as posted by the famous banditwing.:). They are part number A7680R in red and S for silver. Otherwise i'd stick with good ole reliable high bite step-pins!...Jim

[OutKast]

i bought a Adam Drake tuned pipe for my Mach .15. when i install it will i need to tune my engine? if so what exactly do i need to tune? thanks.

[kcobra]

Grimlock: Here's a few suggestions on your list:

- Ditch the after-run oil and filter oil. Go get a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil for a couple bucks from Autozone and use it for after-run oil and filter oil. Just as good as the over-priced hobby stuff, which is half the time Marvel Mystery Oil, but much cheaper.

- Make sure you get the cheapest price at Tower for that CV-R. I just ordered the same engine tonight and Tower list 3 different prices in various places on their website ($100 - $124)! The cheapest is $100.69 with stock number LXUJ73.

- Consider getting a temp gun instead of the MIP temp guage. If you get into gas more heavily, you will end up buying one anyways.

- You can charge the gell cell that goes in your starter box with a normal automobile battery charger.

- Order the 3 pack of #8 glow plugs. You save a couple bucks and you will need them eventually.

- Get the larger fuel bottle, as others have said.

- Ditch the Associated locking adhesive. Go get some Locktite Blue threadlock at Walmart for < $2.

Hope that helps some.

[grimlock3000]

- Ditch the after-run oil and filter oil. Go get a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil for a couple bucks from Autozone and use it for after-run oil and filter oil. Just as good as the over-priced hobby stuff, which is half the time Marvel Mystery Oil, but much cheaper.

simple enough, i always wondered what exactly people did with that stuff :)

- Make sure you get the cheapest price at Tower for that CV-R. I just ordered the same engine tonight and Tower list 3 different prices in various places on their website ($100 - $124)! The cheapest is $100.69 with stock number LXUJ73.

$100.69 is what i paid for the engine, looks like i am all set here.

- Consider getting a temp gun instead of the MIP temp guage. If you get into gas more heavily, you will end up buying one anyways.

i will check ebay for a cheap raytek temp gun. a temp gun would be useful for more than just rc anyway.

- You can charge the gell cell that goes in your starter box with a normal automobile battery charger.

i do not have an auto battery charger. looks like i am going to stick with the cheap rc one for now.

- Order the 3 pack of #8 glow plugs. You save a couple bucks and you will need them eventually.

what about mccoy mc59 plugs? i am seeing those are very popular (and cheaper).

- Get the larger fuel bottle, as others have said.

ok. is there such a thing as a bad fuel bottle as long as it is the right size?

- Ditch the Associated locking adhesive. Go get some Locktite Blue threadlock at Walmart for < $2.

the associated locking adhesive is something i already have. i still have some loctite blue i use for household stuff as well. if the associated stuff any better/worse than loctite? i mainly bought it because it was pretty cheap and i needed to get an order over $150 to use a tower coupon.

If you can I would go with the pink ofna starter box. It will last you forever whereas the 1/10th scalw won't. A hitex 645 servo for steering instead of the 625 because of the extra torque(same price)

unfortunately the pink starter box cost more and is quite a bit larger so it has two strikes against it :( i thought the 94 oz torque would be plenty so i went for the speed of the 625 servo. is it not enough torque to whip around the tires on demand?

[kcobra]

Originally posted by grimlock3000

i will check ebay for a cheap raytek temp gun. a temp gun would be useful for more than just rc anyway.

what about mccoy mc59 plugs? i am seeing those are very popular (and cheaper).

ok. is there such a thing as a bad fuel bottle as long as it is the right size?

the associated locking adhesive is something i already have. i still have some loctite blue i use for household stuff as well. if the associated stuff any better/worse than loctite? i mainly bought it because it was pretty cheap and i needed to get an order over $150 to use a tower coupon.


Ebay is a good idea on the Raytek temp gun. IMO, you should go with the ST20 gun instead of the Mini-Temp. I had a mini-temp die after a couple uses. Ofcourse, others may disagree. Also, RadioShack has a new temp gun for $50. No idea if it is good or not.

I think the McCoy plugs are great. I used to get approximately a month out of one, racing every weekend. One thing to remember is use 2 shims with McCoy plugs in OS engines. The McCoy's are longer than OS plugs and OS engines are designed for OS plug length.

I guess the only bad fuel bottle would be one that leaked. They are pretty much all the same though. Just get whichever is cheapest and big.

I couldn't comment on whether the Associated thread lock is better than the normal Loctite thread lock. I have just always used the normal blue stuff. My guess would be Associated's thead lock is just repackage automobile stuff.

[capnkirk52]

Hello all, this is my first time posting so, sorry if i screw up...

I bought a XXX-NT off of EBAY (big mistake) and I got it and started it up and everything and the tranny was just slipping and would occasionally go somewhere but it would never really hook up. So I took the tranny apart and every plastic gear in there was totally stripped out and the steel or aluminum gear (whatever it is) had a big gash all the way around it... needless to say I was pissed... so i ordered all the parts to fix it and once it was done i took it out and ran it and the same thing happened... Then today i was reading on here about how guys had to loosen their slippers up because the tranny would slip before the slipper... I just ordered a new XXX-NT sport RTR so should I loosen the slipper before i drive it and if so, how much do i loosen it??? what else do i need to do before i take it out???

one more thing... i was also reading that you can get either more top end or more bottom end torque by moving the pipe farther/closer to the header??? is that true, what is the standard length.

Any help would be appreciate
Thanks...

[Got Speed]

grimlock3000- MC 59s are good plugs. The #8 is OSs hottest plug to my knowledge(BTW: the #8 is what you get with the .12 CV-R) mine lasted break-in and about 8 races.

Any fuel bottle will work. A 500cc will just last longer.

AE or loctite threadlock will work equally as well.

I think it was stormer hobbies had the 1/8 pink ofna box for $80. Not sure if they still do though. It is about the same size as all the other 1/10 scale boxs just that the motor sticks out the side a little. Most dual motor boxs will struggle with new .12s and .15s and be really hard to start any sort of .21 new or old. The dual motors burn up if you put to much strain on them.

Unless you are going to run oval the more torque is a better idea. With alot of force on it it won't turn the wheels as fast as the 645.

[Racin Rev]

capnkirk52,
Too bad you didn't post sooner, you might have saved money. Ebay is a mixed bag. I hope you gave the seller a chance to make it right. If he didn't then slam him to the curb on the evaluation section. It is the only way to keep them honest.

More bottom end can be had by lengthening the pipe (making it farther) this is what you want for off road (usually).

I am not sure about your tranny. it almost seems like a bearing is shot and shifting a shaft, but a close inspection may reveal the problem.

As for the slipper, the slipper should slip before the diff does. Every RTR that I have seen is not adjusted right from the factory. Read the instructions from the truck and it will tell you what to do but the diff should be fairly tight.


Got Speed,
The OS #8 is the medium plug (though I can't imagine what the hotter one does) I believe that the order from hot to cold is A3, 8, A5. I know this makes no sense but I didn't name them. RCCA had an article on this a couple of months back. Heat ranges for plugs is consistent only relative to one's own brand.

[banditwing]

I have the radio shack temp gun, although I bought it when it was on sale for only $30. Its nice, and does the job that i need fine. But it is not as accurate as the rayteks or real rc temp guns (i guess thats what you call it) :rolleyes: :)

Also there is a 3:1 spot size compared to the 6:1 spot size on Rayteks.

[OutKast]

I ran my NT today, and was having problems with the throttle. I took off my Air filter and i guess the carb isnt closing all the way. so when my car is at idle, it moves forward. However i didnt change any thing on my car since the last time i ran it. and i didnt change my thtottle trim on my receiver? i didnt change feul, from 15% to 20%. any help on this scenario would be helpfull, thanks.

[Got Speed]

Racin Rev- hmm didn't know about an A5. Just looked at their website. There is an R5 plug too. I really like the 8 in my CV-R though. I am using an A3 right now though(didn't have enough money to get the 8 when I needed it lol). You change the heat of the plug for different reasons such as the nitro percentage you are using but the 8 seems to give me a good idle, lasts a long time, and isn't too hot.

banditwing- Do you know if they are still on sale? Im looking for one with a good price to replace my onboard gauge.

OutKast- The carb shouldn't close all the way. Put your trim to neutral, readjust the linkages so you still get full throttle and idle position and brakes. If the wheels turn when it is off the ground it's ok as long as the car dosn't move when sitting on the ground. Now when you start it next time turn the idle screw(screw on the engine with a spring under it) in to raise the idle or open the screw to lower the idle. Don't make any adjustments untill it is up to running temp. If it stalls when you lower the idle(and dosn't "load up") then you need to check to make sure the clutch spring and clutch is in good working order. If it "loads up" try leaning the low end needle(not the tall brass one, most likely on the side of the carb).

[banditwing]

Got Speed- I'm not sure if they are on sale now. When I got mine that was the beggining of December. I recently went into a radio shack (but it was an overpriced one) and they had it on sale for $50. (But then again all radio shacks are overpriced :rolleyes:)

It may be diffrent in the part of the country that you are in. I only got the Radio shack because it was $30 :D compared to $65 for a raytek. If it's $50 at your store, just skip it and go to a Raytek or other name brand infrared temp gun.

(For $30 the Radio Shack temp gun is a good deal, but for $50 I dont think it's worth it IMO).
-Banditwing

[winning edge designs]

outkast, you'll want to start out with about a 1/4 turn richer top end needle setting. This way you always start rich and lean it to proper settings. You never want to get it too hot, then try and adjust it, it just never works as well..................Jim

[OutKast]

Im new to Nitro, used to race electric....lol So i need to Make it richer 1/4 turn then lean it out until it doesnt move anymore? which screw do i turn and which way? the brass one? or the one on the carb itself? thanks again.

[grimlock3000]

thanks got speed, i will go with the 645mg servo. i think i can sell my 625mg for what it cost so i am not too worried about switching to the 645mg.

i have been unable to find a single bad comment about the ofna pink box. all i find are comments like, 'this could start my car" and "three years of use and it is still running perfect" i might as well spend the extra $15 for it :) does one of the rear wheels of the xxx nt hit the motor sticking out of the pink starter box?

thanks for everyone's help again!

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by grimlock3000
thanks got speed, i will go with the 645mg servo. i think i can sell my 625mg for what it cost so i am not too worried about switching to the 645mg.

i have been unable to find a single bad comment about the ofna pink box. all i find are comments like, 'this could start my car" and "three years of use and it is still running perfect" i might as well spend the extra $15 for it :) does one of the rear wheels of the xxx nt hit the motor sticking out of the pink starter box?

thanks for everyone's help again!

Yes, the right wheel touches the motor.

Have you used the servo yet?

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by OutKast
Im new to Nitro, used to race electric....lol So i need to Make it richer 1/4 turn then lean it out until it doesnt move anymore? which screw do i turn and which way? the brass one? or the one on the carb itself? thanks again.

He is saying that when you start the car, start it with the high speed needle(tall brass one) 1/4 turn richer(counterclockwise) then once up to running temperature lean untill it dosn't bog anymore. That will pretty much protect you from overheating but a temp gauge or gun is really nice. As for the throttle I tried answering it in my above post. Tell us how it work out.

[grimlock3000]

I take it the wheel hitting on the motor does not get in the way enough to cause a problem starting the truck? (I am such a n00b)

The 625MG servo was new, someone bought it on eBay for $37.99 so I really did not lose much.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by grimlock3000
I take it the wheel hitting on the motor does not get in the way enough to cause a problem starting the truck? (I am such a n00b)

The 625MG servo was new, someone bought it on eBay for $37.99 so I really did not lose much.

Oh, ok. The wheel dosn't cause any problems with starting. The motor starts the engine by turning the flywheel. Once the engine is running the wheels won't move or will move a little depending on how high your idle is.

[grimlock3000]

oh, yeah, i know the wheels do not turn when you start a nitro :) i was more worried about the motor getting in the way so much it would prevent the chassis from moving down and be hard to get the flywheel onto the starter wheel.

[RushingG]

I just bought a new xxx-nt sport......I need some help in how to break in the engine cause i dont want to screw it up in any way...Thank you

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by grimlock3000
oh, yeah, i know the wheels do not turn when you start a nitro :) i was more worried about the motor getting in the way so much it would prevent the chassis from moving down and be hard to get the flywheel onto the starter wheel.

LOL, ok. :)

RushingG- I suggest getting a temp gun or onboard gauge first. Start by idling one tank through it leaned to 190-210. Run the next one slowly(with short bursts of throttle) on the ground about 200-215 for 2 minutes(repeat this 3 times). Now run it faster(with a little longer bursts of throttle about the same temperature for 3 times). Lastly run a tank through it the way you will be driving it. With a temperature from 200-235.
You are not supposed to tune to temperature. Just use what I gave as a guide(for example: if you are on your first tank your engine should not be running 240F). This method of break-in has produced very good results for me and many other people. Your engine will last longer and be faster breaking in like this as opposed to the break-in just idling it.

[OutKast]

LOL ok i get it now. i was kinda confused, ok alot confused. So i set my radio EPA to zero. Then adjust my throttle linkages to the stock setting right. So that the Carb opens full and closes all most shut. And before i start my car, turn the little brass screw counterclockwise 1/4 turn, and then lean it out until the tires move, but not when on the ground? thanks for the help. i just want to make it work right the first time.

[CTurbo]

Does anyone know if the Adam Drake Edition has Titanium ballstuds? They seems to be hevier than some Ti ballstuds I have.

[winning edge designs]

outkast, I'd recommend studying the manual, over and over until you have it almost completely memorized. I thought everyone did this, like me, LOL.

Set your radio throttle "trim" to the middle. Then correct the linkage if needed to factory adjustments. The high speed needle is the 3/4 inch long brass tube, with a screw head on the top of it. Turn it 1/4 turn out, or counterclockwise. Then run the truck, you'll be able to lean it clockwise a click or two at a time(1 or 2 hours on a clock) until it makes decent top speed. Check the temp once it seems to be reasonably fast and make sure it isn't over 220-230 or so. Most racers try and stay under 220, so small climate changes won't bring it up too hot. If it's too mcuh and you're getting frustrated, get some help at the local track. There are usually a couple decent guys who will give you a hand for a few minutes. As long as you don't want $100 in free parts and 3 hours of thier time, ;)!

Cturbo, no Titanium ballstuds. Those deals are $8.00 a pair. $64 worth on the truck!...............Jim

[OutKast]

Alright thanks for the advice. Is this because i changed from 15% to 20% fuel? I cant take it to my track until summer, you see i live in Ontario Canada, and we have just over a foot of snow right now...lol i run my truck in the snow on mild days
(-10 to -15) so i think ill wait until summer before attempting this... thanks though.

[Got Speed]

CTurbo- Steel, unfortunatly. I havn't had any problems with ball studs except the inner studs on the tower(particularly behind the engine). You can just buy those or get captured ball ends.

OutKast- No that won't cause it. That will just make your engine run faster and hotter. Do like WED said, or if you need more help post here again. And yes it is a very good idea to get someone to show you first hand how to do it too. The screw with the spring is the idle screw(clockwise raises the idle and vise versa), the tall brass needle is the high speed needle(which controls the amount of fuel the engine gets(and how much the low speed needle gets) which is often times called the master needle, and there is the low speed needle. The high speed needle make the biggest impact on performance. Adjust it first to get the engine running relativly well at a good temperature(200-230 is ideal) then adjust the low speed needle for best acceleration, and lastly adjust the idle screw so that the engine is as low as it can be still with a smooth, consistent idle.

[Got Speed]

Oh, I forgot: :)

WED- How many gallons do you get from your wasp? Which version are you using? What is the range of temp you run it at?

Im considering getting one this summer(lol already thinking of then) but I can't afford too if it will wear faster than my CV-R. Ive heard they aren't hard to tune either. Is that right. I don't mind something more difficult to tune but I don't want something like all the storys about the piccos. :p

[OutKast]

So the reason that it moves when idleing, is because of my mixture? or because my Linkage isnt proper?(ie carb too far open) i had help tuning it after break in and it has been perfect until now. its cold now but i didnt think that it would cause the car to move when idleing? i really only run it in the winter for the sake of running it...i use after run oil but i still dont like letting it sit for almost 6 months...lol thanks again.

[Philly's Finest]

It moves on it's own because of the idle speed. There are two ways to adjust this. If it hauls ass when as soon as it's on the ground you'll probably need to adjust the idle screw on the carb. But most likely you can take care of it with your radio.

I think you said you bought the rtr so you should be using the xr2. You can adjust the idle by the button on the square box to the right of the wheel when looking at the transmiter. You'll probably want to go negative since you want to turn it down.

Most of the time in nitro you have too adjust the engine to the climate conditions. So if there is a change in temp or humidity since the last time you ran that's probably why it changed.

[bogz]

If the car is properly set up, adjusting the trim on the radio SHOULD NOT lower your idle...

That's what the idle screw is for.

Ideally, when you let off the gas, and hit the brakes, you should not notice a change in RPM (or very little change). All the trim on the radio does is adjust the throw at rest.


But I do agree that if your car is moving when at 'idle', your idle is too high.

[Got Speed]

OutKast- Turn on your car(don't start it) and radio then give it full throttle. Then let it go to neutral(not brakes). Note how far open the carb is with the air filter off. Now give it full brakes. If it shuts any further you need to adjust the linkages so that at neutral the carb is all the way shut. If everything checks out there you should just raise the idle by turning the idle screw(screw with the spring under it) in a little at a time untill you get the desired idle. Next time you run it stop the car in front of you and listen to it. If it stays steady for a, or several seconds then drops in rpm you need to lean your low end.

Locus- It is powerful, a real pain to tune, illegal for racing, other than that it is a fast engine.

[Shady]

Jim i noticed you had been to the track in Fl that the first rc pro race is gonna be at, and i was wondering if you could suggest a few things for me
I just got a RB X12 and was gonna use it for this race, what pipe would be best for that track and what clutchbell(s) will i be needing, also what is a good starting setup for the track

[winning edge designs]

Gotspeed, I'm using the side exhaust version, rotary carb, non pull of course. It has about a gallon on it so far, but some here who've run one longer say 3 or 4 gallons no problem, maybe longer. I'm surprised how good it holds a tune, probably only a shade less reliable then the O.S. carb, but alot more power then my CV-R had. Definatly good enough you won't need a carb when you get the engine, which is most important to me. Who wants to buy an engine for $150 or so ,then a $50 carb? Speaking of which, I have an RB C12 with an O.S. carb for sale, less then a gallon on it, know anybody? :).

Outkast, another possiblity is since the engine was tuned in summer and now it's very cold and dry out, you may need to re-tune. The cold dense winter air has most likely leaned out your carb, allowing it to race the engine too high. This means two things. One, the engine was too rich at idle, or at least slightly. Two, the carb will need to be a little richer low speed and the idle a little lower. Don't use the radio, since this will cause stalling when you use the brakes.

Shady, I tried a bunch of pipes and i've settled on the Drake pipe as actually being the best...not one of, but the best, imo. Until something revolutionary comes out, or the rules change, it tests as THE pipe to run. For gearing i'd run an 18 or 19 on the boggy creek track. I also use some ballast in the clutch shoes to engage the clutch a touch earlier. The bite isn't too bad, but it gets some sandy spots, so the clutch tuning helps, but isn't absolutely needed. The good thing is the track is high speed now, so the clutch is only a factor in those sandy low speed turns, which helps alot...............See you there, Jim

[OutKast]

I think i may have found my problem. On the stock xxx nt sport, with the mach .15 and slide carb, the throttle linkage has two springs on the z bend wire right? mine only has one. i know in the kit manual it shows to springs and i cant remember if it was on there or not? I attached a picture to help explain what i mean. thanks.

P.S. Sorry for the quality its the only way it fits.

[Shady]

thanx Jim

[BlueBlaster01]

JUst a quick question. My "foam things" are getting nasty looking, are they just there for looks or whatever? (could I just take them off? Or should I buy new ones?)

[speedydave]

Those are there so the ball studs don't get scratched from all that dirt that's on your foam donuts.

[winning edge designs]

Blueblaster, he's right, those foam ballstud savers are used to keep "some" of the dirt from getting to the wear area in the cup and ballstud. They don't do a very good job on dry dusty tracks, but work great for wet tracks. They also need replacement every time you notice they are looking shaby. Unfortunately this involves popping off ball cups, which may make them pop off easier after a few times..........Kind of a snowball thing, :). I stopped running them, since my ballcups and studs still wore even with them on and because of how they looked after a month or so............Jim

[BlueBlaster01]

Thanks for the help. I'll just remove them. If I have any ball stud/cup wearing problems. I'll just have to upgrade....what a shame. :p

[speedydave]

Yeah, that's true. They start looking really bad. I only run them on my electric stuff, anyway.

[dkj-M3]

OutKast- the extra spring is for radios with no end-point adjustments. It takes up the slack, so it doesn't stress out the servo when it goes pass the servos range.

[Got Speed]

winning edge designs- Great. Im considering a new engine in the summer. I was thinking either the wasp or sirio. Yea, I don't mind if it is harder to tune as long as it isn't like a picco. :p If they get 3-4 gallons on them thats good too. That's what most of the guys at my track are getting on their CV-Rs. Sorry don't know anyone looking for an engine right now.

[JIP2587]

hey WED

Just curious as to how much you want for the engine?

JIP

[OutKast]

So there is only supposed to be one spring on the linkage? In the kit manual it doesnt say anything about only needing one if you have EPA. Infact in the same paragraph it mentions making sure both of the springs are the same length and then adjusting them later with end point adjustments. Im just trying to clear this up. Thanks.

[RCRACER2471]

The extra spring is just there in case you dont have EPA. In which some radios dont. For me i have it so i only need one spring to be used since i have EPA with my XR2 radio.

[AreCee]

OutKast:

Just thought that I'd point out that you have a ROTARY carb in that thing and not a SLIDE carb. And you don't need the second spring with an adjustable radio but you do need the spring between the servo arm and the carb lever which is held in place by the collar.

[OutKast]

Alright thanks for that, and i meant to say say rotary carb...lol i guees ill just have to wait until it gets warmer and lower my idle and tune it proper. thanks all.

[saabcaptain]

Switching from electric to nitro... need help!

I am thinking of getting out of my MFE XXX-T truck as the hassle of electric (endless batteries, motors that need constant maintenance with special tools, ie. com cutting etc., battery charges etc. and high level of competition) is just getting to be a hassle and overwhelming. My local track has a great deal of 1/10 scale nitro stadium truck races and hobby folks and so I am thinking of switching to a Drake XXX-NT.

Let me just state straight off my goal is to be able to go once every one or two weeks to the track and race for fun without much more hassle than basic maitenance on the truck (ie. cleaning, replacing broken parts) and motor (basic cleaning with oil etc.) The appeal here is not needing the latest batteries, motors and the sizeable work required to use them properly. I do have money to goof with so even though for someone like me it doesn't matter I likely intend to get the Drake Edition XXX-NT just because I like "the nicest."

If I go and buy the Drake XXX-NT today what else do I need (I have an excellent set of tools and paint and trimming setup for lexan bodies) to get up and running?

1. Engine? What is best in the .12 range?
2. Fuel and bottle? What type?
3. Glow Plug? Any special type?
4. Starter box versus a pull start?
5. What type of maintenance oils and cleaning stuff for nitro?

I obviously have the radio stuff and some high power metal gear servos. Thanks for the help, a new nitro guy is coming...

Dave

[DuckTape]

Here you go, hope I helped

1.) Ask some-one else.
2.) I use Trinity Platinum 20% manufacturer part number MH0020T, and an Ofna 500cc Spout Bottle with auto stop. manufacturer part number RC4449
3.) Ask some-one else. I know u can use a McCoy plug but now which one. (Can some one else answer this for me two?)
4.) Havn't heard much on this, but I want to know too.
5.) Duratrax Air filter Oil manufacturer part number 160, Trinity After burn oil manufacturer part number: RC8104, Trinity Nitro Blast Cleaner 17 oz. Manufacturer part number: RC4449. I cant think of anything else.

Travis

[DuckTape]

As it states above what sterter box and spare glow plugs should I get? And also, how is the pull start on the xxx-nt? Is it reliable or does it break down alot? Is it worth it to get and OFNA starter box? Or should I just keep the pull start. I also do NOT want a bump start, and I am on a budget so do I really need a starter box? Thanks ALOT Travis

[JIP2587]

I don't have any experience with the pull start on a xxx-nt, however several of my friends had pull starts on their gas vehicles. I have never seen or used a pull starter that worked as well and reliably (one ways wear out alot on pull starts) as the dynamite starter box i use for my OS Cv-r equiped xxx-nt. Given the choice I'd definatly go for the starter box.....you won't regret it. As for glow plugs use whats recomended in the manual or ask your lhs.

James

[DuckTape]

Hi yall, I am planning on getting the Trinity Reciever pack for the xxx-nt, and I want to know exactly how to set it up so I can use it and turn it on and off from the car, and charge it with out removeing it from the car. I know Dnmeistr told RedWolf a while back how to do it but I cant find it. Also is there A more simple way because if I remember it correctly, it was a really long thing to do. THANKS!!! Travis

[DuckTape]

Does any one know of any manufacturers that make screw sets to upgrade the allen screws and nuts to hex driven ones? Thanks alot Travis

[Racin Rev]

saabcaptain,

As for engines you cannot do better than a OS CVR. It is fast and absolutely the most forgiving in the carb adjustment department. WED (Winning Edge Designs) runs an Orion Wasp and likes it so far. He is fairly knowledgeable on these and was an OS proponent, so this might be worth a look.

You want 20% nitro fuel. I run Byron and I like it but I wouldn’t by any means say it is the best. It is what my lhs carries and it works well for me.

The OS plugs are very good albeit expensive. The Mc Coy is also a good plug and somewhat less expensive. The OS #8 is standard with the CV R, and it moves out nicely with it but I have gone a little cooler to keep the tail end where it belongs.

Definitely you want a starter box. I have heard good things about the OFNA with the single big motor.

Nitro is way more grungy than electric. I like simple green for the body and the pan grunge. You should also get a container of Marvel Mystery oil for use as after run oil and for your foam air filter. I run the paper filter with the oiled foam filter around it and have had good luck. I did abandon the supplied foam element for a custom made unit though. the dirt was getting around the foam and making the top and bottom of the paper element dirty so I cut one out of foam and extend it beyond the bottom and it covers the top. Works great, looks ugly (it is square).

WED Jim, I went looking for this new motor that you are trying and I had to go back 7 pages to find it. I remember when this was such a quiet forum :p Too bad Aaron doesn’t come here anymore. The guys turn pro and they don't know you any more. :rolleyes: ;)

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

From the model airplane side of your LHS (gasp), an airplane-style switch harness allows you to charge the pack from the 3rd connector without disconnecting anything on the car.

BTW, cover that 3rd connector when running the truck, or it will soon die from "nitro crud" fouling the sockets.

[saabcaptain]

Thanks for the replies guys... it looks like by early Feb I will have the DE XXX-NT kit. I intend to over a few days over a month period build it up, sell my MFE XXX-T, get a starter box, engine etc.

Questions: I will likely go with an OS CV-R 1.2 engine, but the price for the CV-RX isn't that bad but how overkill is it for me since my goal is "fun" racing and my driving skills are average? If the CV-RX is so powerful I have to keep my EPA turned way down to prevent crashing then I suppose I will go with the OS CV-R.

I am excited guys, I intend to build up this mean machine over the next 2 - 2 1/2 months and then by spring be ready to go. If I do it earlier that's ok because we have indoor nitro racing in my area of Chicagoland...

[[-Ecko-]xxx-nt]

I finally got the xxx-nt Sport rtr and I noticed that it said the carb was pre ajusted. I bought the one on display at my LHS and noticed that maybe they could have been messing around with the high speed needle and the low speed needle. I dont know where its set to but wondering is there like a limit to where the srew just stop and you cant screw it in no more?:confused: Srry Im jus a newbie at nitro rc.

[Trevor280z]

the cv-r and cv-rx are the same motors just one has a pullstart. both 1bhp. if you think thats to much power then buy a nice cheap .12 CV (redhead) its got plenty of torque

[DuckTape]

Yes there is a spot where you just cant tighten the screw down any more. There is a site that explains the high, low, and idle needles, but I cant rememer it off the top of my head. Does any one else know it besides me? Thanks Travis & hope I helped

[[-Ecko-]xxx-nt]

Thnx for the reply. I just found out that the low speed needle is fine but the high speed needle is at a point where I dont know:confused:

[banditwing]

To reset the carb for the mach .15, just in case, you screw the high speed needle all the way in, and unscrew it 2.5 turns. Just screw it in till it bottoms out, no more, or you will damage the needle and you will need a new needle or possibly carb or high speed needle sleeve even. Do the same with the lowspeed but unscrew it 4 full turns. Then with the barrel all the way shut (the lever pushed towards the pull start mechanism) take off the air filter and adjust the idle screw, so that when the carb is pushed shut, that there is around a 1mm gap open in the carb.

For the high speed and the low speed by screwing them in clockwise leans the mixture, and unscrewing them richens the mixture. For the idle screw screwing it in clockwise raises the idle speed (bigger opening in carb when shut) and unscrewing it lowers the idle speed (smaller opening in the carb when shut).

Hope this helps.:)

[saabcaptain]

Thanks again guys... I ORDERED my DE XXX-NT and it should be here in a few days. Likely I will put it together really slowly so I will run it in early March for the first time. Question:

1. I intend to use an OS CV-R engine in this thing. I WILL buy a starter box so I don't want the pull start. What engine style should I get in this setup as I saw the following at Tower:

LXAGD0 O.S. .12 CV-R (P) w/10C Slide-Valve Carb 89.68
LXUJ72 O.S. .12 CV-R w/10E Rotary Off-Road Carb 124.99
LXUJ73 O.S. .12 CV-R w/10C Slide On-Road Carb 100.69
LXUU27 O.S. .12 CV-R (S) w/10ER Rotary Carb 91.59

Which would be the way to go for the DE XXX-NT kit with a starter box for 1/10 off-road? Thanks...

I am gonna pick up that Nitro Basics book at the LHS tommorow, do a slow build on the chassis / engine (which I hope to have both by the end of the week) and then pick up the starter box, glow plugs, batteries etc. over a month or so. Needless to say I will keep sending you all questions!

[[-Ecko-]xxx-nt]

Just took it outside and ran about 2 tanks. It ran great but the third tank when I went to pull the pull starter it didnt have any sort of resistince at all and it would not start. Dunno what should I do:confused:

Thnx for the tip though Bandit.

[BlueBlaster01]

Let me guess--its a mach .15? Mine does the same thing after a few tanks...its a pain in the *****. You have to take off the pull start,back plate and clean the one way bearing.

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

saabcaptain "..........indoor nitro racing in my area of Chicagoland....."

Can you specify the location???

Thanks!

[Locus]

Bought a spare gearbox off ebay that came off a new Drake kit. I'm putting it together but have one question. When putting the bearing in their locations I noticed I'm one short but I have a plactic piece the same size as the 3/16" x 3/8" bearings. I've attached a pic, where in the gearbox does this plactic bearing go??

[dkj-M3]

it goes in the compound gear(same color) & holds the brake shaft

[saabcaptain]

Sure I will run my XXX-NT indoors at Leisure Hours Raceway in Crest Hill, IL which is a SW suburb. Check out... http://www.leisurehours.com/raceway.aspx

[Locus]

Originally posted by dkj-M3
it goes in the compound gear(same color) & holds the brake shaft

DKJ-M3 - thanks for the information. back to building the new diff and gearbox!

[winning edge designs]

I'd go with a starter box, especially considering the engine will make up almost half the difference in cost. An $80 starter box will make it so you can get an engine for $30-50 less with no pullstart. The starter cords work fine if you tug with your wrist tand not like your starting a lawnmower. But when a problem arises you'll have a sore arm in no time.


.......As far as brands, the Ofna box is hard to beat for the money, I mean $79 with the battery? :) Call or E mail Superior Hobbies, they have a website under the same name......Jim

[Ducati998]

HI! I have been racing onraod for a long time already. Now I'm deciding to get a offroad racing truck, which would be they XXX-Nt Adam Drake edition. But before I do I want to ask some question first. I was just wondering does anyone know if Losi will come out with a new truck? Also will they ever discontinue the XXX-NT? In case some of you think this is a dumb question, the reason I want to know, because I don't want to buy this truck and then they come out with new truck. Your help is very apperciate. Also if anyone have comment about this truck please feel free to reply. Thank in advance.

[Juice]

Well guys, its been a while since I posted here! But anyways whats the secret on NOT busting your battery box every other run??? I dont bash my truck, just normal racing but I can bust that batt box all the time! I dont think I land on my butt no more than the others--its getting expensive:D

[Locus]

Originally posted by Juice
Well guys, its been a while since I posted here! But anyways whats the secret on NOT busting your battery box every other run??? I dont bash my truck, just normal racing but I can bust that batt box all the time! I dont think I land on my butt no more than the others--its getting expensive:D

Juice - I saw this on ebay the other day. I've never used it but it might be what you are looking for to protect the battery box.

http://**************/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=19168&item=3107556123

[Locus]

Juice - Just go to ebay and put in item # 3107556123 to pull up the URL that I tried to post above.

[DuckTape]

Originally posted by DuckTape
Hi yall, I am planning on getting the Trinity Reciever pack for the xxx-nt, and I want to know exactly how to set it up so I can use it and turn it on and off from the car, and charge it with out removeing it from the car. I know Dnmeistr told RedWolf a while back how to do it but I cant find it. Also is there A more simple way because if I remember it correctly, it was a really long thing to do. THANKS!!! Travis

Any one? Please, I dont have the car yet but am ordering it soon, and I need to know!!! Thanks Travis

[saabcaptain]

Sorry to ask again but I think it got buried in the older posts...

Which of the following OS CV-R engine versions is appropriate for the DE XXX-NT assuming a starter box of course and cost no object...

LXAGD0 O.S. .12 CV-R (P) w/10C Slide-Valve Carb 89.68
LXUJ72 O.S. .12 CV-R w/10E Rotary Off-Road Carb 124.99
LXUJ73 O.S. .12 CV-R w/10C Slide On-Road Carb 100.69
LXUU27 O.S. .12 CV-R (S) w/10ER Rotary Carb 91.59

The only things I know is that the "On-Road" Carb is likely not an option. But what is the difference between Slide-Valve, Rotary Off-Road, and Rotary Carb? I would use the stock DE pipe.

Thanks....

[WheelNut]

The LXUJ72 O.S. .12 CV-R w/10E Rotary Off-Road Carb 124.99
would be the best fit, though the LXUU27 O.S. .12 CV-R (S) w/10ER Rotary Carb 91.59 would also work. But the shaft is really short so there isnt very many threads in the clutch nut, making it easier for it to fall off. So you'll have to load it with the strongest thread lock you can find. But you can always use the first engine there, its more expensive but the clutch nut will be more secure.

[Juice]

Thanks there Locus!! Seems like a neat idea, has anyone actually bought that and how was the quaility of it?? Seems like anyone could form a little metal like that and make it work

[kcobra]

Originally posted by saabcaptain
Sorry to ask again but I think it got buried in the older posts...

Which of the following OS CV-R engine versions is appropriate for the DE XXX-NT assuming a starter box of course and cost no object...

LXAGD0 O.S. .12 CV-R (P) w/10C Slide-Valve Carb 89.68
LXUJ72 O.S. .12 CV-R w/10E Rotary Off-Road Carb 124.99
LXUJ73 O.S. .12 CV-R w/10C Slide On-Road Carb 100.69
LXUU27 O.S. .12 CV-R (S) w/10ER Rotary Carb 91.59

The only things I know is that the "On-Road" Carb is likely not an option. But what is the difference between Slide-Valve, Rotary Off-Road, and Rotary Carb? I would use the stock DE pipe.

Thanks....

You don't want:
LXAGD0 O.S. .12 CV-R (P): This has a pilot shaft on the end of the crank. If you have ever seen a typical .21 engine, they all have pilot shafts that the clutch bell spins on. The XXX-NT uses it's own flywheel nut assembly that has the pilot shaft built in.

LXUU27 O.S. .12 CV-R (S): This is the version for the RC10GT.

You want:
LXUJ72 O.S. .12 CV-R w/10E Rotary: This is the regular crank shaft version with the rotary carb. More people recommend this for gas trucks, as the power band is supposed to be smoother than the slide carb.

LXUJ73 O.S. .12 CV-R w/10C Slide: You can also use this one instead of the one above. It is the same engine except for the different carb. People say the slide carb is more like an on/off switch (i.e. no power/full power) than the rotary carb. I chose this one because it is cheaper and I am used to slide carbs with my .21's.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by saabcaptain
Sorry to ask again but I think it got buried in the older posts...

Which of the following OS CV-R engine versions is appropriate for the DE XXX-NT assuming a starter box of course and cost no object...

LXAGD0 O.S. .12 CV-R (P) w/10C Slide-Valve Carb 89.68
LXUJ72 O.S. .12 CV-R w/10E Rotary Off-Road Carb 124.99
LXUJ73 O.S. .12 CV-R w/10C Slide On-Road Carb 100.69
LXUU27 O.S. .12 CV-R (S) w/10ER Rotary Carb 91.59

The only things I know is that the "On-Road" Carb is likely not an option. But what is the difference between Slide-Valve, Rotary Off-Road, and Rotary Carb? I would use the stock DE pipe.

Thanks....

In one of your other posts I saw you asked about a good starter box. The Ofna pink box is what I use. It's great a ton more power than my old dynamite box I used to have and it has mounting posistions for just about any car, truck, buggy or anything that can be started on a box. It is a little more than the dual motor boxs but worth every penny. Lots of power, lasts practicly forever, starts almost all cars, only a little more than others.


Wow! Lots of posts since last time I looked several days ago.

:)

[banditwing]

Ducktape- I'm not sure what your saying, but whats the easiest thing (I sometimes do if I'm lazy) is just unconnect the servo lead from the reciever pack to the switch, and then plug it into your charging jack. Mine has the servo lead conector adapter, I dont know about yours. If it doesnt you could easily make one out of some wire and an old servo switch and a tamiya connector. You want to charge it at .5 amp if you can, I charge mine at 1amp though, because thats as low as my chager can go. (Can you say limbo? :D)

I usually take the battery out of the box when I have time, because it does get quite dirty in there for some reason (It's supposed to be sealed :rolleyes: :p ) So I usually take it out, clean the batteries and the box too. BTW I am using rechargable nicds in the 4 aa holder, im eventually going to get a reciver pack, but it works the same way with charging them.


I don't know how you are breaking the battery boxes!! My xnt landed right it's my butt from a 7 foot jump (hight) and didn't break the box. (Although i snapped a ballstud and pivot block). It might be that I was using the rtr material box then.. and had a chance to flex a bit..... I bet you I just jinxed myself:eek:

[clw]

Anyone tried both and can offer some insight? Wondering how they compare on a hard base, dry, with sand on the hard base? In other words a slick track!!!

[saabcaptain]

Well I suppose then to go with the DE XXX-NT I will use: LXUJ72 O.S. .12 CV-R w/10E Rotary Off-Road Carb $124.99 from Tower Hobbies. I am gonna really need a smoother powerband and the EPA on my radio working overtime as being a pretty new driver in general and total rookie at Nitro trucks I have a feeling I will need to keep things "under control."

Here is the worlds STUPIDEST question:

If I order the engine today and mount it in the next few weeks to the brand new DE chassis but DON'T run it for 2 or 2 1/2 months will that hurt it? Looking back through my RCCA mags they have big elaborate schemes for taking apart and storing an engine during winter and show the results of only 2 months sitting in the form of oxidized metal and damage. I assume if the engine has NEVER run and has no internal lubricatants or moisture to damage it, there is no problem with my scenario right?

Thanks again...

[rccarman5]

i've encountered a few problems and wanted to know if anyone else have encountered them:

when i wanted to rebuild my diff, when i opened the tranny case, the greeese had turned black, i'm def sure this is a sign of dirt enteing? could it be from the outdrives becaus i dont realy see any seal but the lip on the outdrive. and the monstor diff had some plastic on teh holes, like it was bunched up at the balls or something. has this ever happened to anyone?

also, the top spurgear shaft, why is it lopsided? wen it rolls, i can see the spur gear move left and right? but it doesn't move forward? if i get the all alluminum cnc machined one from losi, will it cure my prob? also wehre can i get one.

thanks

[Got Speed]

clw-If it is loose then step pins are a better choice. The T-Bones are for wet, hard surfaces, high traction, sometimes even blue groove tracks.


saabcaptain- It has a really smooth powerband but you will need to practice being smooth with the throttle finger. It's especially hard with a slide carb(lol) but it gets you around the track faster and you will crash less(in other words your car shouldn't sound like WA wa WA wa WA lol). When you first get it you should make sure there arn't any burs left over from the machining process in the engine. If so, VERY CAREFULLY take an exacto knife an try to get them off without scratching the engine. You don't need to do this(and shouldn't if you arn't comfortable taking your engine apart) but it is a good thing to make sure that there isn't anything wrong because it will either ruin your engine, or decrease its life. If it does get messed up from that I think O.S. covers it under warranty. At least when you get it you should pull out the glow plug and put about 10 drops of after run oil in and about 10 drops in the carb. Then turn the engine over about 6 or 7 times. Maybe do this after about another month just to be sure. When you start it up 90% of the time any burrs(if there are any) will be washed out.

[saabcaptain]

Actually I looked at my work schedule and there are several Thursdays I normally work that I can actually get off early and go to the evening practice sessions at my track so I can use that time to tune the engine and "goof" with the car. I was worried my only free time would be weekends which are all race days only and the weather outdoors is way too cool.

BTW: What is a good range of temperatures (not the engine but the weather) to run these engines at without too much worry... 60-100F?

[clw]

Step pins sound like a better match for the conditions of this track.
Thanks

[rc4me2]

correction about rotary vs slide

slides are usually used on-road...but not b/c of an on/off switch...think about it...would an onroad racer want throttle control like that?...no
slides are more precise in their fuel delivery, especially in the upper-rpm range, where it'll most often be used on asphalt, not dirt
if anything, the rotary is more "on/off" than the slide, but ive got a cv-r w/ a rotary and i wouldnt say that at all

i used to run a slide in my truck...just make sure you keep that boot sealed or little dust particles will get in there and really screw you up

[rccarman5]

Originally posted by rccarman5
i've encountered a few problems and wanted to know if anyone else have encountered them:

when i wanted to rebuild my diff, when i opened the tranny case, the greeese had turned black, i'm def sure this is a sign of dirt enteing? could it be from the outdrives becaus i dont realy see any seal but the lip on the outdrive. and the monstor diff had some plastic on teh holes, like it was bunched up at the balls or something. has this ever happened to anyone?

also, the top spurgear shaft, why is it lopsided? wen it rolls, i can see the spur gear move left and right? but it doesn't move forward? if i get the all alluminum cnc machined one from losi, will it cure my prob? also wehre can i get one.

thanks

ttt

[slaf]

Hi all

Can someone tell me this....

What's the pitch and the number of tooth of the idler gear (A-3087) on the XXX-NT tranny ?

Thank:) :

[banditwing]

Slaf- I'm 99% sure its 48 pitch, since my traxxas spur mates with it perfectly. 35 teeth on the larger part, and 26 teeth on the smaller part. Its a stepped compound idler gear. :)

rccarman5- How much have you ran your truck? In really dusty and dirty conditions? When i rebuilt mine, the grease is usually grayish clear.
You said about the diff, it might have been if you ran your diff too hard and too loose and it overheated and slightly melted the gear.

You might have bent the topshaft. You could get the aluminum one, or just a stock replacement.

[JIP2587]

Twas a very sad day at the track today:(

Apparently my fuel tank lid did not seal well at all. Due to the lack of seal, which I hadn't noticed, there was no exaust pressure actually going to the engine, it all went out the top. This made my cv-r run leaner and leaner as the tank ran through, eventually blowing the engine. Is this a common problem with losi? Losi won't do anything for me will they?


How much would be a reasonable asking price for the following should I decide to sell it:

1) Losi XXX-NT (Only run once, no engine)
2) Dynamite Starter box
3) Glow starter
4) Futaba T2PC radio with 2 servo's and reciever
5) Trinity reciever pack
6) Ofna Fuel bottle

[Trevor280z]

my truck:
http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/eeecc8b/bc/My+Photos/LOSI.jpg?bcVeIL.ANX8Hxt3w

http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/eeecc8b/bc/My+Photos/LOSI+2.jpg?bcVeIL.Ai9OJogFV

[winning edge designs]

JIP2587, I have heard of fuel tanks splitting after quite a few months of use or in very weird crashes. I have also heard of engines leaning out and getting so hot they shut off. But this is the first i've heard of a gas tank lid blowing an engine. It's more likely that the engine wasn't properly broken in or it came apart from being adjusted too lean. Not to say your making this up, but you may have overlooked the other possible causes. The change from pressurized to not, in an otherwise properly tuned engine, would allow it to heat up more then normal, but should'nt cause failure..............I would replace the engine and try again with someone who has more gas engine experience. Since selling the truck would likely only bring you back about 50 cents on the dollar if you're lucky........Jim

[JIP2587]

Hey WED,

Thanks for the reply man, Chances are I'll buy a new engine and get it runnin again. I was just curious as to what I'd get for it. As for the part about the tank.....the truck has me totally baffled and that was what I was told by the most experienced racer at our track. All of my tunning knowledge(I'm not a noob i do know how to tune, and have a temp gun to help:D ) has not helped me at all, and no matter what I or anyone else tried the engine didn't want to run. I'm also certain that the engine was broken in properly, as I followed the directions in the "getting started in nitro" book by rc car action. I'm pretty certain theres a different problem somewhere. If you have any ideas as to what the problem might have been please tell me so I can avoid this later on.
It always had a thick blue smoke cloud and ran around 200 degrees, so I don't think it was to lean, but next time I'll run a bit richer just in case.

Anyways thanks for the help
James

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by saabcaptain
Actually I looked at my work schedule and there are several Thursdays I normally work that I can actually get off early and go to the evening practice sessions at my track so I can use that time to tune the engine and "goof" with the car. I was worried my only free time would be weekends which are all race days only and the weather outdoors is way too cool.

BTW: What is a good range of temperatures (not the engine but the weather) to run these engines at without too much worry... 60-100F?

You can usually get alot of help (if you need any) at the track with whatever it might be. You can learn alot by watching, listening, and talking to the other people too.

At 60 degrees the engine probably won't even start. 100 is about right after you start it. It should run about 200-230. No more than 250.

[losixxxnt]

Originally posted by Got Speed
You can usually get alot of help (if you need any) at the track with whatever it might be. You can learn alot by watching, listening, and talking to the other people too.

At 60 degrees the engine probably won't even start. 100 is about right after you start it. It should run about 200-230. No more than 250.

You apparently have never raced at CRCRC The temp in there never gets above 50.The engine should start at any temperature with a little needle tweaking.

[winning edge designs]

JIP2587, Ok, I wasn't sure if you had any tuning experience or not.
There are dozens of possible causes of an engine getting too lean or just giving a difficult time running. But there are only 3 things the engine really needs to run. Compression, fuel and spark(glow). Things like an air leak, wether from a backplate, crank front bearing, cylinder head or glow plug can cause erratic running. Faulty fuel system, like small cracks that may not be noticable in the fuel tubing, or tank. Clogging fuel feed lines, or pressure lines can also make things run erratically. I've even seen carbs with broken off high speed needles, where the tip floats in between the seat and outer screw end. Another thing to look for that's common is a carb that isn't pushed down fully before tightening the lock screw, which leaves the O-ring unseated and causes an air leak.
If the engine was at 200 degrees fuel system leaning from a tank lid wasn't the cause of the failure for sure. I've run my race engines as high as 300 degrees. This isn't common though, since it doesn't leave room for error, or a problem, but the engines can handle it, contrary to popular belief.

Can you take pics of the engine parts and post them? The parts will tell the tale, even if the engine literally blew up when it failed.......Jim

[rccarman5]

i haven't ran it in dusty conditions at all. just i think there is some leak somewhere. but dont know where??. maybe my top gear cuz of the lopsidedness. or it can be the sealat teh bearing. also, i just stripped my diff nut. o well.

[saabcaptain]

Originally posted by Got Speed
At 60 degrees the engine probably won't even start. 100 is about right after you start it. It should run about 200-230. No more than 250.

As I stated on my orginal post I was talking about AIR temperature, not the temp of the engine itself. What is a reasonable air temp to run the engine at... when it is 60 - 100 outside? 50?

Thanks!

[saabcaptain]

I am placing orders so give me some quick suggestions...

1. Starter Box for XXX-NT, OS CV-R combo? There are SO, SO many and often the prices vary from $60-100 with little or no difference apparently. Also a company like OFNA has about 5 of these that same applicable to off-road 1/10 with major differences. I will run it off of 2 stick packs.

2. Glow plug driver / Ni-Cad charger / integrated? I have no idea where to begin here!

3. After run drops? From who...?

4. I just bought a RX pack from Trinity. I am getting a charger for it because my current junk charger only does 6-7 cell packs. How do you charge the RX pack... I only see the RX plug on it... I am sure there is some easy answer.

5. The XXX-NT has a throttle return but I see for $30 you can buy a radio fail safe... is this a good idea?

6. LAST QUESTION... what tools for the engine should I get to make things easier. I see mention of flywheel wrenches etc.

Thanks.

[Racin Rev]

saabcaptain

I have heard good things about the Ofna box with the single large motor inside. It seems to have a lot more cranking power and more durability. My twin motor unit is currently running on cheapo stock motors because the stock units burned out.

Stick packs will give you more voltage. They are lighter and more compact than a gel cell. the gel cell will crank longer than the sticks, and are cheaper. Either will do what you want.

I like the glow driver with the gauge in it which uses the c cell batteries. I always carry two c cells NImH charged. If for some reason the driver gives out I can just change the battery. If you go with the one with the sub c cells you might want to have two as an electric guy you know the hazzards of discharging a cell and immediatly trying to recharge it. I don't like integrated. It is just too much drain at a time. With that said I know guys who use them successfully, but I like the redundancy.

Marvel mystery oil. cheap and effective.

Just buy a rx charger they are inexpensive (if you know how you could convert one of the many chargers that you have in a box for electric appliances which have long since been discarded). The plug of the rx pack mates with the plug of the charger. that is how it is done.

Don't know anything about fail safes. never needed one. The only problems I have had have been taken care of by the return spring.

I don't have anything special for the engine. I usually do what WED does I use a channel lock wrapped in a towel to hold the flywheel and that works just fine without straining the internals. Do seal for leaks though, use ox sensor safe permatex. You already know to buy good tools.

[AreCee]

Saabcaptain and Ducttape:
You have several choices to charge the Rx pack while it's in the car. First and best choice if you use an on/off switch is to get a switch harness that has a charge plug built in. Get a female servo connector that is wired and use that with your charger at .5 to 1 amp which is good for the Trinity pack.

2. Skip the switch and just use an aileron servo extension between the Rx and battery. Charge the pack using the same setup as above (female connector to the charger).

3. Un plug the battery and plug in the same adapter as above and charge.

Hint: You still need to get a charge adapter to connect the charger to the battery.

Saabcaptain:
1. I have the Ofna 1/10 scale box with the two 550 motors and power panel for four years and it still works great with two 1700mah packs for power. It lasts for the whole race/practice day with no problem and I run the glow ignitor off the power panel. Nice part is that I have my charger with so even if it goes flat I can recharge in about a half hour.

2. I like using the glow driver off the power panel of my starter box. It lights first time, every time. (I also have a Dynamite rechargable ignitor but replaced the battery with a 2000mah sub C).

3. After run oil; Marvel Mystery oil works or buy some after run at the LHS.

4. See above.

5. The throttle return spring pulls the throttle closed if you lose battery power to the servo. A failsafe requires electricity to work so it will return the throttle to idle if the radio signal is interupted but won't work if the battery fails. Bad news is that neither works if the servo jams at WOT.

6. A channel lock pliers works pretty good to hold the flywheel while tightening or loosening the clutch nut. A snap ring pliers is very useful to install and remove the clutch clip without damaging it. A glow plug wrench or an 8mm socket and driver will remove and install the plug. You could buy a flywheel wrench but the channel locks have served me well for over 20 years, I don't like using any piston locking tools for fear of damaging the con rod, wrist pin or crankshaft.


Temperature at Leisure Hours is about 35 or 40 last Sunday and no one had problems with their engines. The pit area is heated to about 65.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by losixxxnt
You apparently have never raced at CRCRC The temp in there never gets above 50.The engine should start at any temperature with a little needle tweaking.

This time of year at my track the temp is about 60-70 and many times it is very difficult to get it to start without cranking it over or heating it to about 70, 80 at best.

saabcaptain-

Thought you were talking about engine temp. Mine is run between 60-135 air temp.

1. Ofna pink box. Powerful, adjustable, compact for it's class, not to much more than others, lasts forever.

2. Sub C cell NiMh with voltage meter works best.

3. Marvel mystery oil

4. Any standard reciever pack charger will work.

5. A throttle return spring should always be used. A fail safe is ok but only if there is interference which in most cases won't cause your car to go wild but will cause it to just start twitching or stop responding correctly to your radio input. Good thing to have but not a must like the TRS.

6. Channel lock pliers in a towel. Cheap and effective.

[grimlock3000]

what size 12v batteries will fit in the ofna pink box? hobbico sells a 4.5ah 12v battery and a 7ah 12v battery, one is much wider than the other. also, does the ofna box come with mounts for two 7.2v stick packs?

also, how important is a voltmeter on the glow plug starters? do the batteries drain fast enough for it to be important to always know what the voltage is?

thanks.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by grimlock3000
what size 12v batteries will fit in the ofna pink box? hobbico sells a 4.5ah 12v battery and a 7ah 12v battery, one is much wider than the other. also, does the ofna box come with mounts for two 7.2v stick packs?

also, how important is a voltmeter on the glow plug starters? do the batteries drain fast enough for it to be important to always know what the voltage is?

thanks.

It will hold a 12V 7ah gell cell battery like you listed. Or it will hold two 6 cell packs. It dosn't have mounts for them though. You can try velcro.

It's just a nice feature to have to be able to see how much charge is left. Ive had several nights where my glow heater went dead so I had a spare battery with me. I usually just test mine by putting it on a glow plug(screwed in to a glow plug wrench) to see how fast it heats up.

[Locus]

I'm building a new gearbox and running in to one problem....I don't have the 4-40 thread cutting screw. Can anyone tell me where to find this item or something similiar at a hardware store??

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Locus
I'm building a new gearbox and running in to one problem....I don't have the 4-40 thread cutting screw. Can anyone tell me where to find this item or something similiar at a hardware store??

It is a 4-40 gold screw. It looks like the others except it is gold. If you don't have it I don't know if you can get it at a hardware store being so small.

[DuckTape]

Originally posted by saabcaptain
I am placing orders so give me some quick suggestions...

1. Starter Box for XXX-NT, OS CV-R combo? There are SO, SO many and often the prices vary from $60-100 with little or no difference apparently. Also a company like OFNA has about 5 of these that same applicable to off-road 1/10 with major differences. I will run it off of 2 stick packs.

2. Glow plug driver / Ni-Cad charger / integrated? I have no idea where to begin here!

3. After run drops? From who...?

4. I just bought a RX pack from Trinity. I am getting a charger for it because my current junk charger only does 6-7 cell packs. How do you charge the RX pack... I only see the RX plug on it... I am sure there is some easy answer.

5. The XXX-NT has a throttle return but I see for $30 you can buy a radio fail safe... is this a good idea?

6. LAST QUESTION... what tools for the engine should I get to make things easier. I see mention of flywheel wrenches etc.

Thanks.

1.) I would get the Ofna 1/10 Starter Box w/Accessories and get this charger: Hobbico 12 Volt Charger

2.) It comes with the starter box (pretty sure double check though)

3.) Trinity After Burn Oil

4.) Go to page 133 and look for Dnmeister's quote to RedWolf's. VERY HELPFUL!!!

5.) NO experiance with any fail saif but I would probably get it for the precaution and where do u get that?

6.) Stock tools ar "ok", I probably would get better ones but I already had them so I wouldn't reccomend and from me but others may and I am interested in this answer too.

HOPE I HELPED!!! Travis

[saabcaptain]

Thanks for all the help guys. I am on the road now (pilot) but will be back on Thursday and hopefully my DE XXX-NT and OS .12 CV-R will be there, I can wait to wrench on it. I will look to buy a OFNA starter box, try to find an RX charging adapter, and get the stuff everyone else mentioned. No rush, the soonest I can start to break in the truck is Feb 13th so I have about 3 weeks to get the truck together and the accessories ready...

I am sure I will have more questions!

[winning edge designs]

"5. The XXX-NT has a throttle return but I see for $30 you can buy a radio fail safe... is this a good idea?"

I would run a throttle return spring wether you use a failsafe or not. The failsafe won't help with a loss of radio power from reciever battery failure, or servo failure either. Plus the return spring is a required item at any of the tracks that have seen what happens when a truck or buggy goes out of control!

"6. LAST QUESTION... what tools for the engine should I get to make things easier. I see mention of flywheel wrenches etc."


I would look into the New tool from TeamLosi, or Thorps tools. They are pricey, but Very strong and will last quite a while. You can also get an Ofna Flywheel wrench and glow plug combination wrench for less then the allen tools will cost.......Jim

[AreCee]

Locus:

You can buy a 4-40 tap and handle at the hardware store or LHS which is easier to use than the gold screw but don't go in too deep, put some tape on the tap to indicate where to stop.

[Juice]

Has anyone tried running without a clutch spring?? I have heard of people doing it and the power is so much more control-able comming out of turns and all! Im about to try this myself, just wanted to see if any others are doing it?

[MotoMaxx]

Has anyone tried one of those Native Racing upper plates? I was wondering if they are worth the money or not. Looks like a nice set-up...

[Juice]

You have a link and/or a pict of that plate??:D

[pooldoc101]

Ive seen those upper plates and they look real nice, but havent heard of anyone using them. The only concern I would have is the weight, I would be real interested in putting them on a scale and checking it out.

[pooldoc101]

Native Racing Inc.Rc Racing Products

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Juice
Has anyone tried running without a clutch spring?? I have heard of people doing it and the power is so much more control-able comming out of turns and all! Im about to try this myself, just wanted to see if any others are doing it?

The only reason I could imagine it being more controlable is because these engines don't reach peak torque between 20K and 30K rpms. The torque builds the more the rpms build, once it reaches the peak it drops. If it can't build up enough rpms because of the load there won't be much torque either. Do you have problems with it spinning around? If so I would start by adjusting your slipper.

[winning edge designs]

Juice, some of us have run without a clutch spring here. It makes the clutch engage more progressively, so it doesn't "snap" into the drivetrain as it overpowers the spring. The only problem is you need to test and trim the clutch shoes as needed to get it to also remain idling, as well as use a slightly higher idle. There is a chance of easier stalling during pit stops, etc as well. I only use this until now secret trick on VERY slippery tracks. Most tracks have enough traction it's not worth the risk of stalling during a race.


Motomaxx, the Native racing upper plates are trick, they work well. Thier main improvement is easier access to servo and fuel tank without complete dissassembly. I tested a prototype for the manufacturer, but I run the stock parts since TeamLosi is my main sponsor...........Try it out, I think you'll dig it!....Native racing makes alot of good parts, even a battery box in aluminum.....Jim

[pooldoc101]

Jim, is that top plate heavier than stock?

[winning edge designs]

pooldoc, ya, aluminum is always heavier then composites, but not by as much as I thought in this application. The extra screws and spacers are the main difference and it's only about an ounce or so. It's alot better for access to individual components though and not intended to reduce wieght, so it serves it intended purpose...Jim

[pooldoc101]

Thanks for the info Jim, does anyone have any recomendations for setting up my truck for dirt[clay] oval? My truck is basically stock, with a os cvrx powerplant.

[Juice]

Thanks for the info Jim! I may give it a try once to see how it reacts...

[Got Speed]

WED- Like the AE clutch. It does not have a spring. The idle is pretty bad so most people get a MIP clutch for it. So I guess you can run without a spring but you must trim it some? Did you ever say anything about being sponsored? That's pretty cool. No wonder you travel around to the major races. LOL
Do you go to the individual state champs?

[Crashbot2001]

I love to see hop ups for the XXX-nt, but that top plate is overkill. I have never damaged the top plate I have. Only problems I have ever had is screw holes becoming stripped because it's so old! LOL Someone has yet to designed what I feel is a good battery box for the thing. Let's see that!

[MotoMaxx]

Hey, thx W.E.D. for the info, I just may get that thing, easier access is my main reason the extra weight shouldn't be a problem, I would think though that the extra bit of weight in the front would help drop the front down for the turns... Just a thought

Hey Crashbot, have you seen the native box, it looks real nice though it limits your battery choice to a 3-2, I think you could get an Ofna brick pack to work too...Just MTC

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

The native racing top plate was made for easier access for the servo and tank

[rccarman5]

prevents chassis flex

[JIP2587]

Sorry WED I don't have a digital camera to take pics. If you could tell me a couple of things to look for I can probably tell you what you need to know.
The engine is sitting on my desk, apart. Anyway thanks for the help.

(Man this post grows fast, gone a day or 2 and theres 2 new pages:D )

James

[RCRACER2471]

Hey guyz,

You think it would be possible to switch the screws from allen wrench to phillips. I really hate stripping my screws and finding out i have to buy new ones.
Thanx

[banditwing]

If you have a good hex driver, you will be much happier with the hex than the philips. THe screws will last a long time if you have a good hex driver. I suggest investing in one. Of course there must be some phillips head screws in the same size, but it would be just as much to buy a good hex driver.

[saabcaptain]

1. I have gotten to the build point on my DE XXX-NT for the diff and tranny. Do any of you have any build suggestions beyond what the manual calls for. Is using AE grease better than the Losi stuff etc.?

2. Also many, many people have tried to point me in the right direction on how to hook up my new 3x2 trinity 1150 ni-hm receiver pack but I am still confused. Can anyone explain exactly what I need to A) charge the pack via a Tamiya connector and B) to hook the pack up to my Futaba receiver? I have a on-off switch that came with my Futaba radio, I assume I can hook the pack up to that direction, then the switch hooks to the receiver right? Is there a seperate adapter I can order somewhere for a Tamiya hookup for charging from my Dynamite Prophet Plus charger, or a Y-harness that has the Tamiya plug accessabile while it is still plugged into the receiver allowing me to charge the pack while still in the car?

3. Are two Hitec 625MG servos for steering and throttle pretty good?

Thanks,

Dave

[DuckTape]

W.E.D. and any other EXPERIENCED DRIVER/RACER Can you please give me a list of the accessories that you would buy if you would get the XXX-NT Sport RTR with the Msch .15 and Jr XR-2 radio? Thanks alot Travis..

ps, I want ot know like after run oil, nitro, starter box atc.. like what type and manufacturers part number if you can...

[banditwing]

Try the Dynamite Gas Car starter pack. It was $40 at my lhs, and includes 2 extra glow plugs, a glow plug wrench, fuel bottle, extra fuel tubing and rechargable glow ignitor with charger. (With a gauge yipee). :)

That is about it excpet for air filter oil, after run oil, and fuel.

And pick up some mc59s or similar os plug for spares.

You do not need a starter box with a pullstart, but it does make your engine easier to start, because it does the starting for you.

Oh, and a temp guage of some sort if you can afford it. It is a good investment, but not necesarry. THe radio shack one was on sale for $30 a while ago, i dont know what it is now.

Thats about it, except for 12 AAs (8 for transmitter) (4 for reciver pack).

-Banditwing

[banditwing]

Grr tripple post..

[banditwing]

Grr tripple post

[AreCee]

Saabcaptain;

It sounds like you need to take a trip to the LHS with your charger and have them make up a patch cord. Or go to the LHS and buy an unwired Tamiya connector to fit the one on the charger (male or female? I don't know since I use alligator clips with my charger) and a female Futaba servo extention. Solder the black and red wires from the Futaba to the Tamiya pins. Insert the pins into the Tamiya shell. Now you have a jumper cable to go from your charger to the RX pack with or without a charger hook up on the switch. Just unplug the battery pack from the switch harness and plug it into the charger jumper you just made.

OK! (I still like the idea of letting your LHS make it for you.) :p

Or show up at Leisure Hours on Sunday morning and I'll show you the set up I made.

Dave

[winning edge designs]

Rcracer2471, do you live in the U.S.? Most people hate the phillips screws and do everything to remove them and use hex heads. Get a couple good allen drivers like thos on the TeamLosi website, well worth the cash.


saabcaptain, the A/E and TeamLosi clear grease is the same, silicone grease. The black A/E and white Losi "assembly lube" are close, but a little different. The black A/E grease is a little thicker if you prefer. I use the TeamLosi greases with no problem at all, so does the rest of the team.
There is a 3way switch you can use made by Hitec/Futaba/Airtronics, etc that allows you to charge the pack with it connected and connect it to the reciever, battery, etc. They cost about $8-10 but are worth it if you can't solder an extra lead on the battery side of the switch yourself. I use a jumper to my charger with the opposite end on it, available from radio manufacturers as well. Call superior Hobbies for you're needs, they race and will be able to help you out.4078349299. They have a website as well, just use thier name and the other stuff.


Ducktape, I use Maxy's fuel out of miami Florida. They have a website under the same name. I also use Marvel Mystery oil for after run. I use associated air filter oil on my pre-filter and the stock TeamLosi filter assembly. I use a Dynamite starter box in 1/10th scale, the large motor type, avoid the dual 540/550 motor style if possible..............Hope this helps, Jim

[saabcaptain]

I went to Leisure Hours tonight and picked up a splitter for my RX pack with a switch and 2 leads. I also got a Tamiya style plug adapter for one of the 2 leads, so I should be able to charge the pack and in the car too! The shop had them but they were actually hard to find since it seems most make their own. For me I am only and average solderer so I didn't want to make a mess of the small wire connections.

Tommorow I build the diff and tranny and on Sunday before the Super Bowl I'll do the shocks (got some 30 wt to match the 30/40 of the DE Dirt setup.) Next weekend is the engine and radios and the weekend after that I'll be at Leisure breaking it in!

Thanks for the help guys...

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by saabcaptain
1. I have gotten to the build point on my DE XXX-NT for the diff and tranny. Do any of you have any build suggestions beyond what the manual calls for. Is using AE grease better than the Losi stuff etc.?

2. Also many, many people have tried to point me in the right direction on how to hook up my new 3x2 trinity 1150 ni-hm receiver pack but I am still confused. Can anyone explain exactly what I need to A) charge the pack via a Tamiya connector and B) to hook the pack up to my Futaba receiver? I have a on-off switch that came with my Futaba radio, I assume I can hook the pack up to that direction, then the switch hooks to the receiver right? Is there a seperate adapter I can order somewhere for a Tamiya hookup for charging from my Dynamite Prophet Plus charger, or a Y-harness that has the Tamiya plug accessabile while it is still plugged into the receiver allowing me to charge the pack while still in the car?

3. Are two Hitec 625MG servos for steering and throttle pretty good?

Thanks,

Dave

The most important thing about the diff is to make sure the slipper slips before the diff. Hold the spur gear and one wheel while turning the other wheel fast for about a half turn in the other hand. If the diff slips at all it is too loose. I took me a long time before I got the hang of adjusting it to maximum performance. No trick to making it perfect, you just kind of have to get used to it. But as long as you keep it tight enough so that the diff won't slip you are safe from stripping it out.

Sorry can't help you on the batterys.

I would go with a 625 for throttle and a 645 for steering. I think there is a new hitec digital servo for like $10 more than the 645. May want to check.

[AreCee]

Saabcaptain;

Take a look at the JR Z590M servo for your steering. It cost $39.95 msrp and has metal gears, 85oz. and .15 sec @6V. Not a bad deal. That Hitec for $10 more Got Speed mentioned is the digital version on the 625/645 but they're just OK servos. I never did like how the 625 never centered right and I had to send it back when the motor fried. I do use their HS5925 digital to steer my XXX-NT and it seems to work well but it's $90. I'm also using a JR Z8450 in my TC3 which really rocks but that one cost $115.

Like I said the JR Z590M looks like a bargain.

[RCRACER2471]

Got Speed, Ya i live in the U.S and i just dont like the screws. I could get the hex head tools for it but there pretty expensive from what ive seen. I might just get the two smaller size the .050" and the other one. I cant remember. Those are the first to break. The cheapest tool kit i could find is for $30 at my local LHS. www.hobbyetc.com

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

The hitec 5925 is a good steering servo. I have one in both of my xxx-nts. It costs $69 at hobby people.

[DuckTape]

Can anyone give me a part number for a single motor version strter box? WED? Thanks and will a vision peak plus with an adapter to banana plugs work to charge the gel cell battery in it? Thanks Travis

[saabcaptain]

Well the tranny went together well but I am having a pain of a time putting the brake lever on, the posts won't stay straight and screwed in until I get the locknuts on and I stripped one and don't have an extra... I am gonna go pick up a bag of 4-40 locknuts tommorow and continue. I dread having to do a tranny rebuild because to get to the diff might take forever with having to undue the brake, all the pins etc. I did my best to setup the diff as per the manual where when holding the two outdrives you can't turn the wheel, and I did my best with setting the slipper to 5 turns out from tight. I will adjust once the truck is together and then have someone with a XXX-NT at the track look it over before I run it the first time.

[winning edge designs]

Ducktape, try out Dynamite part #DYN5610C. It's $99 on thier website but Superiorhobbies dot com may be able to do better on it or something very similar.


Saab captain, the new tranny cases have a notch for the roll pin to sneak thru, so it shouldn't be too bad. Luckily if biult and adjusted correctly the diff will last at least a couple months. My last diff lasted until the outdirves wore out very badly. Even then it felt good but the nothed outdrives had to come out for the A main at our regionals.

Sounds like you're headed in the right direction asking an experienced tuner to help with the settings. Some people are too proud to ask for help, but then they'll come post how they fried things.......?.......Let us know if you have any questions, Jim

[saabcaptain]

Problem with my DE XXX-NT build. I am having a terrible time with the threaded posts that the brake is built up on. There are two posts that screw into 2 holes in the right side of the tranny case. I can only get the posts to go slightly in the holes no matter what I do and even when they feel firm, but the time I build up the rest of the brake setup including the lever arm and the locking nuts the posts start to wobble and then come out. No doubt on the truck when running they would come out from vibration. The problem almost seems that the holes in the tranny case are A) not deep enough and B) seem stripped somehow. If I use a wrench to get the post in fairly tight I can build up the brake as per the manual but the act of putting on the locking nuts induces enough force the post gets loose or angled. Any tips on this, I am concerned my only soultion is to get a new tranny case as this is either flawed or I stripped it or something. As of right now my build is stopped because of this.

Also someone mentioned a "new" tranny case with a slot for the various locking pins... how can I tell if I have this "new" case, what am I looking for? I assume I have it since I have the DE XXX-NT.

Thanks any help would be greatly appreciated.

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

When I built my trans, I threaded the setscrews in far enough to break the plastic out in the bottom of the holes. Trust me, if the locking portion of the locknuts does not engage the end of the setscrew with all of the parts in place, the brake WILL come apart while running!

For the re-assembly, I have a method. My only means to get my hand sketch into an electronic format is a 244kb(!) scanned image, which I'd be happy to e-mail to you.

[saabcaptain]

Sure go ahead and send me the scan... my email is (remove the obvious spam buster) dcorsi@get.rid.of.this.fake.part.ATTBI.COM

Thanks!

Dave

[saabcaptain]

Ah hell, just when I couldn't be brain dead enough I finally got the posts to screw in all the way and did what you did, went through the case with the lower post and straight into my main Diff gear damaging it. End result is I have to take the diff apart, get a new case, a new diff gear, and rebuild the diff. Off to a great start huh? The build was going fine until this but it shouldn't be a huge deal to fix, just time consuming. Next time I will insert the brake posts when the case is still apart to confirm I am not breaking through the case itself.

What do you guys use to wash all the diff grease off when you do a rebuild, I used to use some form of Nitro Blast before but I recently read that harms plastic...?

Dave

[pooldoc101]

Hey guys, I just ran a motor I bought used today, it's a OS-CVR that had a hole drilled by carb for a boost bottle. I sealed the hole with hi temp sealer[it wasn't ox safe] and it ran a little while then revved real hi, upon inspection I found the hole was empty! Do you think it was because the sealer wasn't ox safe? Does anyone know what size screw would fit in it? I plan to thread a screw into it , and use ox safe sealer this time, or do you think sealer alone would work. I don't want to spend a lot on this as I have a motor coming from a reputable source[WED], but would like to salvage this cvr as I think it has potential. Also does anyone have the needle settings, including the idle settings? Any help would be appreciated, I've learned a lesson from this,don't buy stuff from people you don't know if you can trust[the guy never told me about the hole!]

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

I have my doubts that even a high-temp sealer would be enough to permanently close a hole in the 'case. The inside of the crankcase is under fairly high pressure on the power portion of the downstroke of the piston (until the intake port(s) open).

You could use hi-temp sealer as the threadlock on a short cap head screw of the correct thread that was threaded into the hole-the trick there is to find out the thread diameter and pitch.

I'm imagining a fairly large hole in a fairly small space that will not allow you to drill the hole out and rethread it to a known size.

[RCRACER2471]

There seems to be more people asking questions than answering. Thats for sure...:(

[AreCee]

Originally posted by DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt
The hitec 5925 is a good steering servo. I have one in both of my xxx-nts. It costs $69 at hobby people.

Are you sure? I just check Hobby People's site and they have both the 5925 and 5945 for $99.99, the 5625 for $52.99 and the 5645 for $59.99! I got mine from Tower like I said $89.95. Just blew a JR 4750 today, must have gotten some fuel inside. So I replaced it with my spare Hitec 625MG.

[AreCee]

Saabcaptain;

Don't feel dumb. You made a very common mistake by screwing the brake post in too far. Pick up the new parts and do as you figured out, assemble the screw while the case is apart.

You won't need to go into the case much for service as WED mentioned. The diff is adjusted externally from the diff screw in the outdrive so don't worry too much for now.

At least Leisure Hours has just about every part you need for the Losi (except pink Taper Pins that are on order).

[OutKast]

Quick question, I was playing around with my needles today, and my truck seems to be running better. But how do i know when it is at peak performance. im just running it in a parking lot and its kind of hard to tell any changes? i want to know what it is supposed to run like at peak performance. thanks. oh and its with my new drake tuned pipe :D

[OldskoolGT]

Pooldoc,

You might try plugging the hole with JB Weld. That stuff is great. IMHO, the best thing to do would be thread a screw in the hole, and seal it up with JB Weld.

[saabcaptain]

I have a MINT pair of Pink Losi Tapers (which are *the* tire for Lesiure Hours apparently) mounted on red truck rims. Now having just sold a basher XXX-T for a DE XXX-NT I want to remove these tires which I never did run and put them on yellow rims. If I soak the rims and tires in acetone I know the glue will come off and the rim remain in good shape but will it ruin the tires? If it will ruin the tires either I will run the off color rims on my XXX-NT or get different tires for now as Pink Tapers are sold out pretty much everywhere.

Question: How do M3 Evil Twins compare to Pink Tapers? Would the T-2000 be superior to the Evil Twins? What are the Leisure guys running for fronts? I have the Losi Red Directionals that came with the kit, plus I have a mint set of M3 Blades I could use in a similar fashion to the Pink Tapers, I would just want to remount them.

Off to work for a few days but when I get back on Wednesday I should have a new Monster Gear, a new tranny case, plus a new OFNA "pink" starter box with 750 motor and power panel for glow plugs... that and some more yellow rims waiting for me. I think my tire box for starters will look like: Fronts: Losi R Directionals, PL M3 Blades and Rears: Losi P Taper Pins, PL M3 Evil Twins, Losi R Step Pins, and Losi (what color should I get for Leisure's "dusty" days?) T-2000's.

[offroadcrazy01]

does any know how internal shock limiters work and do they make a big diffence

[AreCee]

Saab;

Leave those tires on the red wheels, soaking in acetone works only to save the wheels for reuse because the tire will be ruined. When you go to the track you'll see that fashion statements are left outside the door and it's OK to mix wheel colors. Bottom line on tires at Leisure is Losi Taper Pin pink with the Pro-Line firm blue foam in back. Fronts are more or less open; Losi red or pink directionals and sometimes 8 rib. Pro-Line Evil Twin in M3 and firm foam have less traction then the Tapers on the dry "blue groove" but work only OK when the track is wet. Pro-Line fronts are your choise but stick to the M3 compounds. The T 2000 are OK when the track is dry.

[triple x]

I have a xxx-nt drake edition I am debating on an engine. here are my choice's 1) trinity p15 standard exhaust 2) trinity xp12 standard exhaust 3) os 12cvr w/10c slide carb. I am not competing professionally, so beside the price there is no restriction on my engine choice

[offroadcrazy01]

the os cv-r is easy to tune and very fast

[saabcaptain]

ArcCee... thanks for all the help. Maybe in a couple of weeks Pink Tapers will be back in stock because it will be at least 10-14 days till I can start breaking in the truck anyway. Hope to have it finished but not run by Sunday. If the tires don't come in look for the XXX-NT with yellow fronts and red rears... that'll be me with my Tapers. :D

Any word on when Losi is going have these things, I checked a zillion online sites and of course LHH, and nobody has any nor a time frame when they will get 'em?

What's a good day for gas racing, Saturday or Sunday (1/10 ST)? What about a practice night that has enough people to help if I bust my truck? Finally is getting extra Adam Drake wheels worth it (same price) because it looks like the black printing is going to come right off if exposed to dirt, fuel etc.

Thanks

[Got Speed]

offroadcrazy01- The limit down travel on the shock. Most of the time the stock setup for limiters is suffecient.

triple x- Tower Hobbies has the CV-R with 10C carb for $88 right now. Nothing else can beat that. The other engines have higher performance but nothing even close to that in price. The CV-R is completly raceable(I race it myself) but the slide carb makes it less controlable for racing. For bashing I think it is the best choice. Inexpensive, easy to tune, wear along time.

[gopack]

Fellow xxx-nt'ers,

I just bought a starter box for my xxx-nt, a dynamite starter box for 1/10 off-road or 1/8 on-road. I put on the adaptor labeled Losi, but when I put my truck on it, the wheel doesn't match up with the engine. I'm sure I put it together correctly! This is the right starter box for the xxx-nt, right?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[Racin Rev]

gopack

more info would be helpful

what kind of starter box

what does this misalignment look like?

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by gopack
Fellow xxx-nt'ers,

I just bought a starter box for my xxx-nt, a dynamite starter box for 1/10 off-road or 1/8 on-road. I put on the adaptor labeled Losi, but when I put my truck on it, the wheel doesn't match up with the engine. I'm sure I put it together correctly! This is the right starter box for the xxx-nt, right?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

It is black isn't it?

I traded someone for one of those boxs during the summer before I got my NT. When I got it the truck didn't line up right either. I looked for some other mounts but didn't find any. I ended up selling it and getting an ofna pink box. I think the one labeled losi is made for the old losi GTX or something like that. It would be a real pain to make it work that is why I sold mine.

[gopack]

Yeah, it's black. What a total bummer.

[DuckTape]

Will the traxxas 2.5 with the ez-start fit in the Drake Edition Kit? And if it doesnt, what good motor like that will....???? thanks alot.. Travis

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

It might, I'm not sure. I'd rather go with a stronger engine like a sirio or rossi. The cvr's are also good engines.

[T/Losi]

Is there a MotorSaver Air Filter available for the XXX-NT RTR Sport Engine. If so, what is the part number.

Cheers

[triple x]

Originally posted by Got Speed
offroadcrazy01- The limit down travel on the shock. Most of the time the stock setup for limiters is suffecient.

triple x- Tower Hobbies has the CV-R with 10C carb for $88 right now. Nothing else can beat that. The other engines have higher performance but nothing even close to that in price. The CV-R is completly raceable(I race it myself) but the slide carb makes it less controlable for racing. For bashing I think it is the best choice. Inexpensive, easy to tune, wear along time.

could you send me the link for $88 for the .12cvr. I saw it there for a $100. could u send me the stock # to get that price. I was thinking of using the 15cvr with pilot shaft because they have it on sale at tower. I don't mind drilling new hole for the engine mount, but is there a clutch that I can use for the pilot shaft engine on the xxx-nt

[AreCee]

Saabcaptain;

I'm at LHH on Sunday, they open at 8 and racing starts at 10:30 usually finishing around 4.

Gas practice is on Wed. and Thurs. evenings as well as Saturday and Sunday prior to racing. There is always someone there to help you if you ask for help.

The Adam Drake wheels differ from the regular wheel only that they have Drake's name on them. The cost is the same and I'll bet they're as wobbly as the rest. Remember to get the Pro-line firm blue truck tire foams for those pink tapers.

[AreCee]

Originally posted by triple x
could you send me the link for $88 for the .12cvr. I saw it there for a $100. could u send me the stock # to get that price. I was thinking of using the 15cvr with pilot shaft because they have it on sale at tower. I don't mind drilling new hole for the engine mount, but is there a clutch that I can use for the pilot shaft engine on the xxx-nt

I'm sure that the pilot shaft won't work with the Losi clutch, too long and the wrong threading.

You could try to use a HPI single speed clutch and flywheel. You'll need to buy a SG clutch nut to use that shaft. The combo may not even line up with the spur gear so you may need to butcher, I mean modify, the chassis which will probably weaken it.

Good luck trying to save a few bucks because I think it will cost you more in the long run than buying the right engine. Take a look at the Dynamite engines, for only $80. A few of the racers I know use them and they spank trucks with engines that cost twice as much. (Reason: you don't need a ton of power on a short technical track. You need control and consistancy which is why many racers use less powerful engines with carb restrictors in them.)

[Got Speed]

tripplex- Now it is down to $86.89 here:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LR0371&P=1

I think you would have a lot of trouble trying to get that engine working in there right. It's more power than you will ever use. If you are racing they are illegal for racing.

[saabcaptain]

ArcCee what do you run up front, like I said I will likely have M3 Blades and Red Directionals which should be ok. What foams up front? The M3 Blades come with the softest foam I have ever seen and I don't think it will be good. Anyone use Trinity Bomb 1 Firm, many have recommended that... but if most use the Proline Blue Firm I won't buck the trend.

I think on Thursday I am going to run by the LHH store and pick up foams and anything else I need and Sunday I'll be at the track to watch. Then the next week hopefully I will have the truck ready to break-in.

Hope to see you there, name is Dave.

[triple x]

Originally posted by Got Speed
tripplex- Now it is down to $86.89 here:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LR0371&P=1

that 12cvr p is the same pilot shaft like the 15cvr p at the previous link. I would still have to drill hole to mount the engine and find some type of clutch and pinion gear that will match up with the stock spur. even though I might not use the extra pwr in the 15cvr it would be good to have it there especially for that price they have now. 3 of my friend have stadium truck, one have a rustler and the other 2 have xxx-nt with the mach 15 engine no radio. I was going to get the same one but I didn't want there of us to have the same look plus I wanted to choose my engine thats why I went with the drake edition. I am looking for an engine that is fast than the mach 15

I think you would have a lot of trouble trying to get that engine working in there right. It's more power than you will ever use. If you are racing they are illegal for racing.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by saabcaptain
ArcCee what do you run up front, like I said I will likely have M3 Blades and Red Directionals which should be ok. What foams up front? The M3 Blades come with the softest foam I have ever seen and I don't think it will be good. Anyone use Trinity Bomb 1 Firm, many have recommended that... but if most use the Proline Blue Firm I won't buck the trend.

I think on Thursday I am going to run by the LHH store and pick up foams and anything else I need and Sunday I'll be at the track to watch. Then the next week hopefully I will have the truck ready to break-in.

Hope to see you there, name is Dave.

I don't use pro line foams at all anymore. You can get about 1 race on them before they start to break down. I use trinity bomb standard inserts. Firm may be better for your track I don't know. But pro line's inserts are junk IMO.

[Got Speed]

quote:
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Originally posted by tripple x

quote:
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Originally posted by Got Speed
tripplex- Now it is down to $86.89 here:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LR0371&P=1

that 12cvr p is the same pilot shaft like the 15cvr p at the previous link. I would still have to drill hole to mount the engine and find some type of clutch and pinion gear that will match up with the stock spur. even though I might not use the extra pwr in the 15cvr it would be good to have it there especially for that price they have now. 3 of my friend have stadium truck, one have a rustler and the other 2 have xxx-nt with the mach 15 engine no radio. I was going to get the same one but I didn't want there of us to have the same look plus I wanted to choose my engine thats why I went with the drake edition. I am looking for an engine that is fast than the mach 15

I think you would have a lot of trouble trying to get that engine working in there right. It's more power than you will ever use. If you are racing they are illegal for racing.



Sorry I didn't notice that was a pilot shaft version. The orion wasp is slightly harder to tune and a little more expensive but puts out more power and rpms than the CV-R. For bashing I would still take the CV-R though. Get the short shaft version or the standard crank(it will have to be cut) with a rotary carb or slide carb whichever you prefer(for racing get the rotary carb though).

[AreCee]

Originally posted by Got Speed
quote:
Get the short shaft version or the standard crank(it will have to be cut) with a rotary carb or slide carb whichever you prefer(for racing get the rotary carb though).

The Losi XXX-NT uses the standard shaft and you don't have to cut it like for an AE RC10GT. The short shaft will only have a couple of threads to screw the clutch nut onto. Get the standard shaft for a Losi you can always cut it if you change to AE.

[AreCee]

Originally posted by Got Speed
I don't use pro line foams at all anymore. You can get about 1 race on them before they start to break down. I use trinity bomb standard inserts. Firm may be better for your track I don't know. But pro line's inserts are junk IMO.

You're not kidding about them breaking down. I barely get four weeks worth of racing before they're shot, but only one race (yikes). The firm foam works really good at our track, is the Trinity bomb equivalent in firmness. Losi firm inserts are too soft. The track is slick clay in the beginning of the day and goes to blue groove with a little dusting toward the mains. You can be real loose just by selecting the wrong tire.

[AreCee]

Originally posted by saabcaptain
ArcCee what do you run up front, like I said I will likely have M3 Blades and Red Directionals which should be ok. What foams up front? The M3 Blades come with the softest foam I have ever seen and I don't think it will be good. Anyone use Trinity Bomb 1 Firm, many have recommended that... but if most use the Proline Blue Firm I won't buck the trend.

I think on Thursday I am going to run by the LHH store and pick up foams and anything else I need and Sunday I'll be at the track to watch. Then the next week hopefully I will have the truck ready to break-in.

Hope to see you there, name is Dave.

It seems like the fronts are more tolerent of the track than the rears. Your tires are fine with the supplied inserts. I'm going to try the Trinity bomb in the next set of pink tapers I get. ;)

[losifreak2004]

Oh man...I can't begin to fathom the idea of catching up on all these posts..good to see new faces!

I will do my best to post here more often, school and other things permitting. This weekend is the Dirt Nitro Challenge in Hemet, but I will try to post on Saturday (1/8th scale qualifying day).

Nice to see everyone again! Leave your questions for me, e-mail them to awaldron@teamurc.com, or IM me at AaronWaldron1

Aaron Waldron