Team Losi XXXNT forum 4.0

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by AreCee
The Losi XXX-NT uses the standard shaft and you don't have to cut it like for an AE RC10GT. The short shaft will only have a couple of threads to screw the clutch nut onto. Get the standard shaft for a Losi you can always cut it if you change to AE.

Yes Im sorry about that. Get the standard crank instead of the short shaft if you can(short shafts come off alot easier). Thinking about the GT :rolleyes: lol

AreCee- Trinity makes The Bomb standard instert(which is a little firmer than the pro lines if you squeeze them, but pretty close) and they make The Bomb firm inserts which are alot firmer. Yea, the fronts stand up alot longer than the rears. When I can I get trinitys for the front too. When my pro line inserts broke down it didn't even feel even. Almost lumpy :eek: lol

Too bad trinity makes you pay $5 for foams! :eek:

[dkj-M3]

proline & losi foams don't last that long, I use the trinity bomb 1 grey foams, which last longer than my tires. when they do break down they are equivilent to the stock losi foam. the new TRC stock foams are pretty good & they are already trimmed down for you. foams are 4$ where I'm from. There is also a guy in OH. that makes his own foams, that I have heard good things about but haven't tried yet. Guys that use them say they last longer than the trinity's.

[DuckTape]

OMG your back Aaron, I saw an article on you in the RCCA last night in the Feb 03 on page 140. Is that your car on that page below the blue B3? It sure does look like it! I am happy to see you back and hope to hear of you more. BTW I am Travis, the kid that you were helping last night on my screen name ICDuMbPpL242!! Haha, see ya soon, Travis

P.S. GOOD LUCK MAN!!!

[OutKast]

NT body for sale if anyone is interested. thanks.
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=879004#post879004

[BlueBlaster01]

Here's a picture of the prototype Noss Machine aluminum front suspension arms!! They will be available to the public in a few DAYS!

[RiPPiNiTuP7]

Very nice! You should get a scale to compare the weight difference...I'm very curious :p

[AreCee]

dkj-M3;

Sorry you're correct. I'm using the Trinity Blue firm foams not the Pro-lines but they are still deteriorating faster than the tire can wear out unlike touring cars where the tire wears out before the foam.

[maxman142001]

DuckTape-The Trx 2.5 will fit. They are planning to come out with P/S and non P/S versions with standard shaft. I am pretty sure the 2.5 Rustler rear exhaust manifold will work.Dynoed at 1.33 hp it a power house.

[dkj-M3]

AreCee- the blue foam is is the bomb 1 extra firm, the grey is the regular firm(which is all I use for the rear/hard packed smooth track). Are you getting water in them or do you use a traction compound, that's the only reason they might be detiorating so fast, I don't use any sauce on my tires & I'll get about 8-10 races before they go flat.

[OldskoolGT]

That a-arm looks nice BlueBlaster.

How bout making a rear pivot block? I'd rather not give money to Trinity if I don't have too.

[dkj-M3]

BlueBlaster01- how bout making the front & rear(1st) hubs, not like the trinity ones but like the stock ones.

OldskoolGT- I have a titanium front pivot block shaped just like the trinity aluminium one's but its silver. the guy that makes them is working on the rear block.:D

[BlueBlaster01]

Well, right now we are either going to start work on rear suspension arms or a stock-style battery box.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Yeah, make rear suspension arms. And also make shocktowers.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Is Noss Machine a company? What's the site and are there any other aluminum parts for the XXX-NT?

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

And for the bashers, a roll-cage/handle like the one on the savage would be pretty good. I got more ideas. :)

[BlueBlaster01]

Yes, Noss Machine is a company. www.nossmachine.com So far its only the front suspension arms. They mainly produce ATV parts, but are getting into the R/C world.

[losifreak2004]

oldskoolgt - What's wrong with Trinity?

One bag thing that's been found with aluminum arms, is that they bend instead of breaking. That's a big investment to damage like that.

Aaron Waldron
Trinity Team Driver

[Crashbot2001]

BlueBlaster, what type of aluminum are they using? What kind of price are they gonna be selling for? Thanks.

[DaLoSiGuYWiTdAxXxNt]

Blueblaster, you think they'll be ready like next week? You said they'd cost like $25 - $35? Kewl, can't wait

[BlueBlaster01]

I'm not sure of the type of aluminum (I will find out), I'm only the "tester." I don't actually machine them etc...They will be in the $25-30 per pair. And about $50-60 per set (front/rear) when we do get the rear suspension arms done. I wish I had a scale that was sensitive enough to see the weight diffrence between stock/aluminum arms. I really can't tell a major diffrence by "feeling" the weight. I'll post another picture...

YES, they will be available within a week--probably in a few days.

[stefcold]

Because here up north (Canada) it's winter time, I have been rebuilding my XXX-NT from ground up. After a full season of racing everything was pretty beat up.

The engine (MACH .15) needs a rebuild, I had to finish the last race with a loaner. Anyhow when I was looking for the piston and sleeve at Horizon I found this:

DYN6582 ABC PISTON/CYL/ROD:MACH 15 $59.99
LOSR6569 PISTON/SLEEVE: MACH 15 $28.49

Looking at the P/S I've got, I would think that it isn't ABC, so I would like to know if some of you guys tried the Dynamite part instead of the Losi one.

Should I expect a big performance gain with the Dynamite replacement P/S considering it is ABC and will it last longer that the standard Losi P/S kit.

Thanks,

Stef...

[saabcaptain]

What a HELLISH day of building. :(

As most of you know over the weekend while building my DE XXX-NT I poked one of the brake posts through the tranny case and into the Monster Gear of the diff. Well today I picked up a new case, new Monster Gear, and new brake posts. I carefully measured and installed the brake posts into the new tranny case before I assembled everything else and it worked great. Then I took apart my busted diff, cleaned everything of lube and reassembled the diff from scratch with the new Monster Gear. No problem there. I then assembled the case which was no trouble, the slipper, the brake setup, I mounted the tranny to the chassis and the slipper/chassis brace to the upper chassis. TA DA! Done!

SOOOOO... then I go to start building the dogbones but as I am about to open the "D" bag I see it... I LEFT OUT A BEARING from diff! So I undo everything, unmount the tranny case from the chassis, undo the slipper, the brakes, take apart the case, and then CAREFULLY undo the diff without ruining it and install the missing bearing. Then back goes the diff, the case, the slipper, the brake, reinstall the case and brace to the chassis. TA DA! Done!

SOOOOO... then I go to start building the dogbones but as I am about to open the "D" bag I see it... When I reinstalled the diff (for the 3rd time since last week) I put it in the tranny case backwards and the diff screw was facing the left side not right side of the chassis. So I undo everything, unmount the tranny case from the chassis, undo the slipper, the brakes, take apart the case, and turn the diff around. Then back goes the case, the slipper, the brake, reinstall the case and brace to the chassis. TA DA! Done! FOR REAL!

Has anyone else had such a frustrating experience. Totally my fault and stupid beyond belief but at least I caught it before I ruined the tranny and diff. All the re-doing of the case has made the screws that hold the two halves of the case together not do it so tightly. The case is certianly tight, no real gap (ie. can slip paper, fingernail etc. between the halves) but if I squeeze it hard you can see it tighten (and a little of the white diff grease for the sealing comes out. Do you all think this is a problem, for now I think it is fine as I can't see how dust could get in but maybe I will run a strip of black electrical tape along the seam? Does that work?

Thanks for letting me vent...

[saabcaptain]

The 2 bearings that go into each of the rear hubs... which way are their teflon seals supposed to face...?

[OldskoolGT]

The teflon seals should face outward Saab.

I had a similar experience building my NT, screwing the brake posts into the diff. I didn't buy a new case though, just a new diff gear. You might lay a bead of silicone sealant at the case half to seal it up. Sometimes you don't want to screw the case together too tightly anyway.


Aaron,

Trinity is OK with me, but I think some of there stuff is overpriced (like that rear pivot block). I also feel that Trinity has held back brushless technology. If I owned Trinity though, I'd be doing the exact same thing. LOL.

[saabcaptain]

Thanks, I now have the build finished up to making up the shocks which I am going to do ala Adam Drake's "The Dirt" setup instead of the 40 wt all around the kit call for. Tommorow I will start mounting the engine which will be new for me as I am new to nitro.

Quick questions (maybe these will be answered by the engine manual and kit instructions which I'll be looking at tonight)...

1. What tools would make the mounting easier... flywheel wrench (one size fits all?) and what else?

2. What protects the engine from getting dirt into the piston area from above when the glow plug isn't in? I may not run this engine for the first time for 7-14 days and want to keep it clean while on the bench.

3. I bought Marvel Mystery oil for the engine. It appears the .12 CV-R has some oil in it from the factory as a little is able to be seen. Should I add MM oil to the engine before running it if I am going to have it sit 1-2 weeks on the chassis?

Thanks...

Dave

[mx416]

I have a tip for the XXX-NT battery box. Drill out the holes that hold the top cover on with a small drill bit, like 3/32". Then you can put in cap head screws, which are alot easier to get out than the tiny ones that come with the kit.

[OldskoolGT]

Saab,

Just to clear up what I said about the bearings, the seals face outwards, so the unshielded sides will face each other.


I've never needed a flywheel wrench. I just hold the flywheel with an adjustable wrench (aka ChannelLock pliers) while I tighten the flywheel nut.

Why not just leave the glow plug in to dirt out?

It won't hurt to have some extra MMO in the engine before you break it in. I always add some to engines before I start them up the first time.

[saabcaptain]

Why not leave the glow plug in... well because that is too obvious!

Thanks for the tip on the bearings in the hubs, I did'em correctly.

Tommorow: Shocks, Tires (Pink Tapers, Red Step Pins, Red Directionals, M3 Blades, Evil Twins all to mount on plain yellow rims), and Engine Mounting.

Thanks for all the continued help... :D

[T/Losi]

What are the weaknesses on the XXX-NT? I heard the ball cups break easy? Is there a way of fixing that? What is that Dynamite .12SPD engine that comes with it like?

Cheers

[Got Speed]

saabcaptain- No problems like that but it becomes frustrating when buiding my diff because I can never seem to get the nut threaded onto the bolt untill about the 50th time. :rolleyes: Other than that no real problems. I found it is much easier to get into your diff if you pull the top shaft out(lean it to the front and then pull it out) then you can lean the center gears to the front(and line up the teeth on the diff gear to the bottom center gear) and pull it out. DEFINATLY flush out the engine with marvel mystery or after run oil before starting it(down the glow plug hole and into the carb). If you feel comfortable opening the engine up you can look inside to make sure no burrs are left over from the machining process. If there are VERY carefully take an exacto knife and run it back and forth on the burr untill it comes off then flush it out with oil. Whatever you do, do not scratch the inside of the engine or get dirt or anything inside the engine. Channel lock pliers inside a rag always work well instead of the flywheel wrench. One thing you will need to look out for when mounting the engine is to make sure you have the engine mounts on right. :p The first time I built my XXXN-T kit it took me about 20mins to figure out why the engine wouldn't mount right. LOL :p


athowells- It comes with a mach .15 engine unless you managed to get a bench built version. Either of those engines are decsent sport engines(both can be raced) but they are on the lower end of power and speed. There is only one week spot on the XXXN-T that I know of. The ball studs on the rear snap very easily. Two things cure it. One titanium ball studs(pricey) or get captured ball ends and a 4-40 bolt.(what I am using) I have never had a ball cup break before. I have only broken two other parts on mine. A rear axel carrier(after slamming my rear wheel into the pipes) and a front suspension arm arm(after hitting some stupid guy or his car that were on the straightaway :rolleyes: )

[PJCruz]

Guys it's been a while. I had put the Losi on the back burner since getting a Maxx and racing the maxx my last time racing (I won the B main.. and had a run away in the gate of the A main..which threw my conrod =(

Anyways.. that track has closed down and a new one opens this weekend for practice about 30 min away and it's supposedly the largest track in Texas.. and the 3rd largest in the US. My maxx isn't fix 100% from that last race.. so I'm taking the Losi out to the new track tomorrow. It's a pretty wide open track...

I may take the stock pipe (I have the LImitied Edition "Built to Race" edition) OFF the truck and put a spare Associated pipe on there. I have a PIcco 12. Anyone try a picco 12 with an Assoc pipe on the NT? The stock pipe is the one with the rubber stinger and the aluminum pipe. Looks like a single chamber pipe.

Anyways.... race on!

Pete

[DuckTape]

Do you have any part numbers for the ti-ball ends, or for one of your set-ups? Thanks Travis

[saabcaptain]

MORE QUESTIONS! :D

I just finished the shocks and mounted the engine / pipe...

1. I am using a OS .12 CV-R with Rotary Carb. Should I use the air filter that came with the OS (3 stage oiled foam) or the filter that came with the DE XXX-NT (1 stage oiled foam, paper filter). Clearly the OS filter looks "cooler" and I have that on right now.

2. I setup the fuel lines as per the manual with an 11 inch line going from the tank to the pipe. My question is about the line from the tank to the fitting on the carb. Problem one is the fitting is in a postion that I think the fuel line will rub against the spur gear which is a *bad* thing. I suppose I can prevent it if I bend the line 90 degrees straight up from the fitting on the carb but then can I actually have the line touching the head of the engine, won't it melt? What am I doing wrong and how long should this line be in the first place?

3. I read in the back threads about some type of alternate setup of fuel lines to maintain pressure or something... is there a better way than the manual describes?

4. I used a rag to hold the flywheel when I tightened the clutch nut. Needless to say it was pretty easy and I was able to tighten it down to the point I thought my Trinity driver would break without much effort holding the flywheel. Did I do it right and tight enough as I figured with others using flywheel wrenches and other devices to hold the flywheel I might have been doing something wrong.

5. The tuned pipe and the u-shape exaust connector which are joined by the silicone are *almost* touching but there is a *slight* gap that can be felt... is this normal or should I push even harder to try to get them to touch under the silicone?

6. I am going to finish the truck and then not run it for 7-14 days. How many drops (do you use an eyedropper or something?) of Marvel Mystery Oil should I drop in the top of the engine and down the carb hole and then how many times should I rotate the flywheel. Should I then add more oil just before running the engine?

7. Last question: I am going to use Blue Thunder fuel since it is fairly popular and easily available. Should I buy a quarter of their "first run" fuel with higher oil content to break in my engine or should I just use the standard Blue Thunder fuel for everything?

THANKS!!!

Dave

[DuckTape]

Saabcaptain, here hope this helps.

1.) Not a clue, ask someone else

2.) I dont know, dont have the manual yet!

3.) If you read back you can find posts about maintaining presure, I think they said to move the presure line to the cap of the tank. (I think this also prevents "nitro fuel" to come out of the pipe and "Flood" the pipe.

4.) I dont have my car yet, wish I could help!

5.) The "u-shaped exhaust connector" is actually an exhaust header or manifold, and there shoud be a LITTLE seperation between them!

6.) Not familar with MMO. Sorry

7.) I asked aw team URC driver if it would actually be better on engine life and he said it will but it is not worth it because you will have a half of quart-3/4 of on sitting around after the break-in process.

Once again being stated, I hope I helped and I am sorry that I don't know more yet, peace out and good luck to you all, Travis

[xxxOS12CVRnt]

Saabcaptain....

1) Have a look at the Dynamite #2612 air filter (that # is for the
kit with oil). I've used K&N air filter oil with good results after
some really dusty bashing last year.

2) The tank to carb line can go between the carb and the head.

4) I used a Vise-Grip (TM) under moderate clamping pressure. The
clutch nut has to be really tight.

5) The header to pipe gap tunes the pipe. Start with a 1/2-3/4"
gap.

6) For 7-14 days more the factory oil should be OK. The danger
in adding oil is the possibility of hydo-lock-oil won't simply run
out of the cylinder like fuel.

7) Yes. Oil, and the smoke from it, are your friends.

The nitro thrill approaches!!!!

Gerry

[RCRACER2471]

Hey i got another question for all of you,

Is it possible to drill bigger holes in the battery box without damaging it and put bigger screws in. The other ones are just crap and are too small so it strips easily.

[DuckTape]

hey guys I have a question, does anyone know if the xxx-nt Drake Edition Kit has Titanium hingepins? I know it has turnbuckles but not hingepins. Thanks for the help


also does any one know what I should get to put the turnbuckles on? ball ends, rod ends, and what is a weak spot on the truck besides the ball ends, I need a part number for them! Thanks Travios

[mx416]

Originally posted by RCRACER2471
Hey i got another question for all of you,

Is it possible to drill bigger holes in the battery box without damaging it and put bigger screws in. The other ones are just crap and are too small so it strips easily.

I drilled my battery box out with a 3/32" drill bit. Now I use 4-40 cap head screws. There is still plenty of plastic around the holes, so I really don't think it weakened the box at all.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by DuckTape
Do you have any part numbers for the ti-ball ends, or for one of your set-ups? Thanks Travis

No, sorry I don't have any numbers for the ball ends(don't use them). They are losi titanium ball ends. The other way is to use traxxas ball/turnbuckle ends for the T-Maxx and a 3/32" bolt. It works well you will just have to run the inside setting on the axel carrier and the outside on the tower. That works the same as the stock setting(to my knowledge) which isn't usually moved. When I need the extra adjustment I will go with ti ball ends.

saabcaptain-

#1 I like the os filter on mine. I use 2 of the elements. The paper says three stage the picture shows 2. Only 2 fit properly and my second element has never gotten dirty.

#2 It won't melt it. That is where I have mine at with no problems.

#3 I heard something about that but I don't remember what the problem was. I have no problem with mine. The problem has probably been fixed.

#4 Did you use thread lock? If so it should be fine. I only had a problem with mine while breaking it in because there was not enough thread lock(don't overdo it though, less than a drop is needed. Just enough to go around the threads).

#5 No, they shouldn't be completly touching. You use the gap to tune the performance towards high end or low end. I would suggest starting with about a 3/4" gap and go from there once you feel comfortable with the car and tuning the stuff(but only change one thing at a time. Check your lap times afterwards to see if it helps or hurts(if you are racing), assuming no other conditions have changed(ie: track moisture).

#6 Put about 5-6 drops of oil in the top and about 10 in the carb. Put some in before running to flush out anything that may be in the engine. The oil in it is what is left over from the machining process. The engine shouldn't be run without some after run in it first.

#7 Use the fuel you plan on running in the engine normally for break-in.


DuckTape- The hingpins are steel unfortunatly. No other weakness unless you don't know how to adjust a diff. It is a little pickier than the AE but works great once adjusted right.

RCRACER2471- Like mx416 said. You can just drill it out and add a 3/32" 4-40 bolt in each hole.

[RCRACER2471]

thanx guyz just making sure!