Team Losi XXXNT forum 4.0

[cabbynate]

xxxnt-user:
My truck also glitches when I ajust the carb and I have an M8 FM.
It's common. :)

[LosiGTX]

Is anyone out there experencing servo glitches?

I Have a Drake XXNT with Novarossi RS .12, using JR XR2 radio and Novak recievier (all brand new), and a Hitec Super Torq servo for steering. When first starting it up the, first two minites it doesn't even glith at all. But after that i might be only a bit away from the car and it turns on me. I installed rubber garmets on the servos, and have wrapped all rubbing linkages and springs with fuel tubbing. There is also no loose bolts. Has anyone else had this problem? Any suggestions? Could the spring which holds on the exaust mainfold be rubbing against the engine when its vibrating and cause glitching?

[dkj-M3]

I have a Novak xxtra that would lose it's settings due to vibration, I put a zip-tie around it. seems the 2 halfs of it was loose, I haven't had any problems since.

[purplerides]

glitches can be a pain in the butt , the best way is to do the process of elimination deal, change chrystals , change receiver , then one servo at a time , they all can cause the problem , chrystals and the reciever are the most fragile so it's most likely to be there. some times the reciever just has some dirt in it , and it's cleaned out it could be ok.

[Got Speed]

I stripped the coating off my antenna and broke a few of the wires. Now I get a little bit of glitching. Has anyoone else done this and tried to put a dab of solder on it? I might try it but I don't want things worse.

[LosiGTX]

yea iam using a novak XXL (xtra xtrta little) as well. Ill try the zip tie. Which way did you wrap it around - length wise or the other way?

[Got Speed]

Does anyone have an easy way to set camber and toe without an RPM or Hudy gauge?

[dkj-M3]

losigtx- the other way. I have the crystal-less RX

[Philly's Finest]

hey losi guys! i'm gettin myself a sport and i was wondering what were some good hop ups i could get? as far as durability or perfomance. i heard the MIP clutch was a good starter hop-up for the rc10gt kit when i was interested in that earlier. how about with the xxxnt?

[cabbynate]

Got Speed,
You can use a soda can to set camber. Just put the can up next to the tire on flat ground and look and see if the tire is flat next to the can. That would be Odg. As far as toe, That's a tuff one.
I eye-ball mine.

[Herpetologist]

What does everyone think of the Novarossi Top ct 12 engine for an xxxnt? Really need some opinions. Thanks,
Dustin

[winning edge designs]

Gotspeed, as was said earlier, the soda can method works great on a flat surface. Won't impess the buddies like a $130 Hudy set-up, but tires are WAY more important anyway!

Dustin, it's an excellent engine, I just hope your track has good traction, LOL!.............Pay attention to how the engine changes during longer runs, you may need to be a click on the rich side to keep it from leaning excessively during long runs....Jim

[Nutter]

Philly's Finest: The Sport doesn't really need any hop-ups from the start, but it might be worth your while to pick up some parts from your LHS while you're there getting your Sport. Suspension arms, diff gear, idler gear, and spur gear would all be good, and maybe front & rear bulkheads too. That should cover pretty much everything that you're likely to break for a while. For the suspension arms and bulkheads, get the Stiffezell plastic instead of the RTR plastic as this is the durable. For the gears, get the standard XXX-NT (not Sport) gears as they are more durable too apparently.


-Nutter

[purplerides]

Philly's finest - the stock losi clutch and the mip clutch are pretty much the same , in design i can't tell the differnce between the two , the stock GT clutch design is totally different so the mip is a good upgrade for that but not the losi, save your money buy tires instead.

[winning edge designs]

Philliesfinest, ditto what purple said. The stock Losi clutch is very good.

For hop-ups i'd pick up a couple pair of titanium ballstuds from TeamLosi and use them on the inner camber link locations. You also may want to pick up a drake pipe, i've recently tried one and noticed an improvment over my previous pipes. I tried Associated,Paris and Picco Pro pipes back to back and was surprised...........But, still, tires are the biggest thing to get,Jim

[DR.GT]

Purple rides and WED:

I agree that the stock losi clutch is good but I think the MIP is better. Why? At our track which has a long straight I have found that when I used the losi clutch when I went to neutral before braking (I use no drag brake) that the rear of my truck would slide out sometimes or grab. I changed to the MIP clutch and that did not happen. My theory is that the spring on the MIP is a little stronger and when you go to neutral that the shoes collapse quicker freeing the truck to coast better. This is really noticable on a slippery track. Other than that one drawback they are both good clutches.

As to pipes I use a Mugen #51601 with my MT.12/ slide/medium restrictor and I haven't found a gas truck out run it yet. The pipe just tames the slide a bit which is needed but all the torque/mid/top end is really still there.

:)

[winning edge designs]

Dr gt, When I need more bottom end(later, or tighter clutch) I shorten the stock losi clutch spring about 6-8 coils. Oddly enough on slippery tracks I have a pair of shoes I drilled and pressed in 3/32nd diff balls used with a stock spring. This allows the clutch to hit sooner, so the engine isn't as far up in the power band and helps add traction.......probably just a matter of preference...Jim

[purplerides]

Dang! me and Jim are up to the same tricks , with the clutch springs and weighting them.

DR.GT - it may be that they use a different tension spring or the material the shoes are made of , i had that problem at the end of the straight at my track it can get slick , i put a wide black stripe on the rear rim and watched it when i let off , when the truck got loose at the end of the straight i could see that the tire , though it didn't stop it was rolling slower then the truck was moving , i shorted the spring some and the problem went away.

[DR.GT]

Yep, you guys just tuned the losi clutch to your liking. Me, I was lazy and heard that the MIP would solve that problem and it did!

:)

[morfracerX]

ok guys my 3^xnt is on it's way, what is the "best looking" body for her? i have a body coming with her. but i want to paint my own (me and my brothers have the same paint on our rides)

thanks

[Got Speed]

Personally I like the Fury NT and the Crowd Pleazer bodys.

[morfracerX]

thats funny thats the body i ordered (crowed Pleazer)

Will NXT wheels (reims) fit on the xxxnt?

This is great all have to do is paing my truck grab a rx and go, losi has a set up for my truck on my track on thrir website.(hotrod hobbies)

[dissymmetry]

I read a short clip in a publication by AirAge about Nitro cars that said that slight increases in weight at the wheels helps with stability. Any of you hardcore racer guys want to test this out? Drop a lighter carb restrictor in than the one you use (assuming you use one at all) and add weight at the wheels or put heavier wheels and tires on.

I have done it to mine, but I'm not good enough of a driver to notice much change in the handling and all that. Nor am I anywhere near anything that resembles a real track without driving for an hour or two.

[OmegaTrac]

Hey,
The diff in my truck is going out. Can I have the Losi part number for the diff rebuild kit?


The diff got very tight and gritty so that means new diff.

[DR.GT]

I have shoe gooed 4 quarters into my battery box and turned the pivot block upside down on my truck. Added the extra 1* hubs as well. The XXXNT now has great rear traction on real slippery tracks and still has great turn in ability. The truck has not been really effected in the rough or jumps by this tuning. In fact, my son won 2 of 3 big races here in Western Canada with this setup. We also use the stock "Stiffizel" parts instead of graphite parts for a bit extra weight.

With a MT.12/slide/medium restrictor/ mugen/rossi pipe the truck still is the fasted I've seen out here and there are some pretty fast boys....

:)

[Got Speed]

morfracerx- Lol good choice. I visited so cal about a month ago when I first got my XXXN-T ADE to race it. I went by The Dirt, Extreme RPM, Pro Line, KZ speedway, Pegasus, Lake Perris, and Hot Rod hobbies. I didn't run on Hot Rod or Pro Line but I did see it and I think it's a real nice track. Your lucky, lol. I go to a nice track(Scottsdale RC Raceway where the Cactus Classic is held in AZ) but those tracks out there are sweet! BTW: you probably already know this but the setup given on Losi's web site is Brian Kinwalds setup for the track. The ideal setup for you will probably be slightly different so once you get familiar with the truck you may want to try messing with some of the adjustments to see what works best for youl.:) Oh, and please give us some pics once you paint your new body!:cool:

[morfracerX]

i will try and get thos pic, but my digiu cam has be3en acting an ass.

The set-up at HRH now is ok but i like the old one better, i will try and find some pics of it. the old track was hard on the trucks but very very fun

[morfracerX]

brothers gt's and my topless monster pirate

http://24.76.40.199/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=190
http://24.76.40.199/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=195

hate to link but there are to many pics there to post here and i'm lazy.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by morfracerX
i will try and get thos pic, but my digiu cam has be3en acting an ass.

The set-up at HRH now is ok but i like the old one better, i will try and find some pics of it. the old track was hard on the trucks but very very fun


Have they changed it since a month ago? That's about when I was there visiting.:D

[morfracerX]

.No that set-up i was talking about was the same as the one you had seen. i just talked with my brother a few hours ago and he told me that now there is a new layout. from what i understood from his rambling the track is a lot faster now with the back stright really in the back now.sounds kind of funny i cant wait to see it, it has been 3 weeks now(or 4?).

[winning edge designs]

Morf, I Gotta go with the TeamLosi Drake body(Fury NT),imho....Just being a freshie is cool, but it's probably the best looking gas truck body for it!...Did you buy a sport?...If you did that truck is a great deal for the cash! ...Jim

[OmegaTrac]

Jim: YGM!

[morfracerX]

Yes it's the sport, i got a great deal. it's almost rtr and i paid $165.i went with the crowds plezzer (sp). i also got some other stuff so my xxxnt cost me $220 RTR not bad imho..

[Got Speed]

Last week when I was racing I melted the diff gear! :eek: :o :mad: $15 for new balls and gear! Anyway, is the diff nut supposed to be on the left or right side of the truck looking at it from the front? Isn't it the left side? When I oppened the diff I forgot all about the balls on the bolt! :eek: :o :rolleyes: so about half of them fell out and landed on the ground somewhere. Should I try to run with only 4 or 5 of them since I don't have enough money right now(and Im not sure if the LHS has them) to get them? :confused: BTW: Racing is tommorow. :eek:

[Racin Rev]

Got Speed,
Unless you want to throw away a lot more money DO NOT run your diff unless it is set up perfectly. Find the money and buy the right parts or just watch others race.

[losifreak2004]

Jim - WOW....pickin up the slack? HAHA

Hello everyone! I'm back after a long hiatus....had to deal with plenty of other things. You'll be seeing me in some magazine articles in the next couple months!

If anyone has any questions, I'm here. Either leave them, e-mail me at awaldron@teamurc.com or IM me at Aaron Waldron 1.

Jim - What's your IM name now? Hit me up.

Aaron Waldron

[winning edge designs]

LF2004, i'm still wedjim on IM. Whats been going on, everything going ok?

Gotspeed, take that good advice. And remember when you biuld your new diff parts, set the diff just a little tighter then it might be in an electric truck. Not like a "posi", but more snug then may impress your buddies. Then set the slipper so it slips before the diff and you'll be good to go. Don't try and cheat this stuff or you'll be re-doing it alot! Recheck after running a half tank of fuel to be sure the slipper still slips first and snug the diff a little if it starts to feel "free"....Jim

[OmegaTrac]

Hey Jim. I added you to IM. If you add me I am omegatrac on IM. Did you get my email in the WED email? In case your wondering im Chris

[morfracerX]

This diff is looking to be a big problem for a few of you guys, what can i do when i first get heri to make sure my drivectran is tight?

What should i look for? the guy i bought it from is vcer very cool with me, so i know he wouldn't sale me junk. i just want to look for tell tell signs that the diff may be going?

[tarvymoto]

What's up guys? Well I made the move back to Jacksonville 2 weeks ago and I had a chance to hit the track this past Saturday....had a blast.

Jim do you have any info on the gas nats and qualifing races?I may be a bit late for it , is it in Oct or Nov. ?
Thanks ,Travis

Wus up Aaron? Thanks for the mail :D U DA MAN

[winning edge designs]

Chris, I sent a reply a little while ago. Did you get it?

Travy, I'm sending in my entry in the a.m., I hear they are getting full up quick. I also had to add $40 in late fee's, for a total os $130+! I actually was considering not going at all because of the money. Some friends have come thru to make it a little less painfull. It's getting easy to see why only the "hardcore" guys show up anymore. The race is the 29th of oct to the 3rd of nov...........Jim

[OmegaTrac]

Yeah, I got the email thanks.


Which pipe do you think I should run on my Picco .12? The AE pipe and header or should i buy the Drake header and pipe?

[Nutter]

Interesting little thing I did with my XXX-NT the other day..

My girlfriend gave me a sweet new cordless Dremel for an early birthday present, but I didn't have anything to really use it on at the time.. and my XXX-NT was just sitting there saying "shiney is cool.. I'm all dull looking"..... so naturally I took out the polishing bit & some brasso and went to work on the chassis - vola! One mirror finish.. very trick looking. :)

Well ok, ok.. it's a mirror finish where there aren't scratches from racing.. and as it's a 1.5 year old truck, there's a lot of scratches.. :p


-Nutter

[morfracerX]

lol@Nutter

W.E.D.

we wish you all the best of luck, you and all the other LOSI and :D AE guys luck.

[purplerides]

Travymoto Gas Nats. - the gas nats. schedule is as follows

Oct.29th open practice
Oct.30th controlled practice
Oct.31st 1/10th scale quals.
Nov.1st 1/8th quals.
Nov.2nd 1/10th Mains
Nov.3rd 1/8th Mains

if you go i'll see you there , i should be in town sometime on Monday ,i'm driving down and leaving here early Sun., you can get an entry form on sgrid in the conferences , the site takes a little getting used to getting around until you get used to it.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by winning edge designs
LF2004, i'm still wedjim on IM. Whats been going on, everything going ok?

Gotspeed, take that good advice. And remember when you biuld your new diff parts, set the diff just a little tighter then it might be in an electric truck. Not like a "posi", but more snug then may impress your buddies. Then set the slipper so it slips before the diff and you'll be good to go. Don't try and cheat this stuff or you'll be re-doing it alot! Recheck after running a half tank of fuel to be sure the slipper still slips first and snug the diff a little if it starts to feel "free"....Jim

ALright thanks. Until I stripped it I was checking it every run but I forgot and ran it with out that's when I stripped the gear. :rolleyes: Do you know about how much those thurst bearings are? Isn't the diff nut suppposed to be facing the exuast and the bolt head be facing the receiever side?

[dkj-M3]

yep

[Got Speed]

Thanks alot. Someone else told me the opposite at the track. :rolleyes:

[OmegaTrac]

Originally posted by OmegaTrac
Yeah, I got the email thanks.


Which pipe do you think I should run on my Picco .12? The AE pipe and header or should i buy the Drake header and pipe?


???

[Got Speed]

The performance is pretty much the same. The drake pipe and header are hard anodized. The drake header gives a lower CG. The AE header is more open where it bolts to the engine. You can open up the drake one with a dremel or file. I like the drake one better personnally.:)

[winning edge designs]

Omega, I've tried about 5 or 6 pipes. And I really like the Drake pipe best so far. It actually seems to have a broader power band and better low end on the 3 engines i've tried it on. (Note: i'm running 1/4 inch air gap between header and pipe also).

Got speed, Believe it or not, regardless of what some people say, the direction of the diff nut and bolt isn't important. Think about this, if you get into the gas hard in a corner and the inside tire unloads on a right turn, what happens. If the diff screw is on the right the threads are in a loosening direction. If you do the same in a left hand corner with the diff screw on the left and the inside tire unloads it is still in an unscrewing direction. Basically if your diff and most importantly the thrust are in good shape the diff wont' loosen up. Usually when a diff loosens up it was because of dry or worn thrust assembly...I like mine on the left side, it just seems easier to adjust for me and it's the same as my electric stuff....Jim

[jdm3849]

How much of a difference would it make if i had a big gap inbetween the pipe and header vs. a small gap? What would be the diffrence? BTW, its the sport

[Philly's Finest]

i'm looking for a good set-up starting point. I will be running on a street course, asphalt & smooth. i was wondering what springs suggestions you guys have and what wieght for the shock oil?

[CTurbo]

I run on asphalt with the standard setup but need more top speed to keep up with the rc10gt. They can get any clutch bell, spur combination. The losi trucks dont have any high gearing optios that I know of. I will need at least 55 mph to keep up.

[Philly's Finest]

if you need 55 out of the engine that came with the sport you might be asking too much. i would start looking for more horses in that case. what is the AE running?

on that note, what would clutchbell would i want for more speed? higher or lower? it has been a while since i have messed with gearing.

[Racin Rev]

More teeth on the clutch bell and fewer teeth on the spur gear will yield a higher top speed (at a cost to accelleration).

[jdm3849]

Originally posted by jdm3849
How much of a difference would it make if i had a big gap inbetween the pipe and header vs. a small gap? What would be the diffrence? BTW, its the sport

[Keemos]

It more noticeable with .21 than a .12 engine… but, shorter gaps should give you more bottom end speed and longer gaps should give you more torque.

[jdm3849]

Aren't bottom end and torque the same thing?

[Philly's Finest]

yeah it is.

[jdm3849]

So then hes saying it wont make a difference if you move the pipe?:confused:

[Keemos]

My bad... it should be high end speed with shorter gaps. Sorry!!!

[purplerides]

pipe gap

on some motors the effect is more drastic then others , so yes it can make a difference, depending on your motor/pipe combo, it cost nothing but new tie wraps so experimenting is worth it, .21's are much more sensitive to this then .12's.

keemos has it backwards though the shorter the gap the more top end the longer the gap the more bottom end.

[purplerides]

LOL keemos corrected himself as i was typeing.

[drdirt]

Hey purplerides, long time, how's it goin. I haven't made it down to vineland yet, still tryin to conquer the oval. Went out to newville a couple of weeks ago and had a good time. Crashed and broke but still had a good time. Are you thinkin about goin to the indoor gas nats in ohio this coming jan. I might go and try to make the z main. see ya, Jim C

[Got Speed]

Racing was last night for me. I almost didn't make it into the main because somebody ramed be and broke a rear shock tower ball stud. I have the ADE and I thought the turnbuckles, ball studs, and hingepins were lunsford ti. ?

My enging also tops out only 1/4 down the straightaway. I thinking about a different clutch bell but I don't want to strain the engine. Im running a .12 CV-R w/slide carb. Is anyone else running this engine with a 19T CB on a tight/open track?

Ive seen several people run their springs backwards. Orange in front red in back. This dosn't even make since to do. Does it actually work though?

[DR.GT]

Got Speed:

WOW! I race on a track that is about 700' running line (30sec. laps) with a 160' straight and my XXXNT with a MT.12/slide/mugen-rossi pipe just hits top end before the end of the straight. I use stock gearing 18/51 as well, and it'll run with the best of them on any size track. On a real tight track I'd probably even try a 17 tooth CB. Granted my track is not tight but somethings not setup right as your CV-R is a pretty strong motor with a good decent top end (at least mine was). What pipe are you using?

:)

[winning edge designs]

jdm, something I found interesting, since I'm the type who needs to know why, not just to do it. The distance between the header and pipe controls the exhaust timing. That is the exhaust in a 2 stroke engine has a very big effect on how well the intake charge(fuel and air) is brought into the combustion chamber. The longer the pipe/header combo the longer the pulse takes, but it'll be better at scavenging the cylinder(clearing spent exhaust). The shorter the combo is the quicker the pulse brings in the mix but it also shuts it down sooner. In theory a longer combo will have a wider powerband and the peak power will come in a little sooner.....All this aside, the real world test is on the track, tuning for the feel you like and your track,etc...Hope this helps,Jim

[purplerides]

Dr.Dirt - i plan on going to the Ohio race , but my wife is pregnant and is due around that time , the entry forms are usually out sometime in Dec. , i'll send mine in , but might have to be a no-show depending things here at home.

[cabbynate]

Got Speed,
If you run the springs Orange front/red in back, you will have more rear traction and less stearing. On some tracks that setup works great.

[CTurbo]

I am using an OS cvr .15 with the sport stock gearing and still need more top speed to keep up with the GTs. Do the gearing I need for my xxxnt doesn't exist.

[BIGBADBOWTIE]

Ok... has anyone here moved the pressure line from the stock location to the filler cap?? If so... what is involved. Did you drill a hole in the cap
in between that set screw and the edge of the cap and use a force fit like it is in the exhaust?(run on sentence) If not..what did ya do.

I have a terrible time restarting my car after a hard run. Its sucks 1/2 the tank out the pressure
line. I think thats where most of my fuel is going.

Please help....fuel is $$$$$ and I hate to see it run out the exhaust!

[Philly's Finest]

i'm looking for a good set-up starting point. I will be running on a street course, asphalt & smooth. i was wondering what springs suggestions you guys have and what wieght for the shock oil?

[DR.GT]

Philly:

Are you going to use foam tires?

:)

[Got Speed]

DR. GT- I am running the ADE pipe. It really isn't slow on the straight but once about 1/4 down the straight it's screaming and seems like it could do alot more.

cabbynate- Maybe it's their driving style, although I can't see there being that much of a difference between driver. The ideal tire is M3 Bowties out there but I am still running the step pins until they wear out. Even with step pins I didn't have hardly any if any problem with rear traction. I switched out my red front springs for pink and noticed a fair improvment in turn-in but with a little more roll. Ill probably try the orange in the front red in the back but I don't think I will get hardly any turn-in.

Also is anyone running a sway bar? I am thinking of running one in the front but I'm not sure of a good starting size?

Thanks

[dissymmetry]

I'm setting out to make spur gears. What sizes would you be interested in? And what material would you racers like best? I can make titanium, stainless or plastic.

[cabbynate]

Got Speed,
Your right, if you put the orange up front you will have less turn in and mors stability down the strights. Also you may want to try Panthers Step-Pins med-soft. They work great everywhere on the XXX-NT.

[cabbynate]

dissymmetry,
Keep in mind that there is not alot of room to go with a bigger spur on the NT. It may rub the rear arm. Otherwise, I think a good quality plastic would be best.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by cabbynate
Got Speed,
Your right, if you put the orange up front you will have less turn in and mors stability down the strights. Also you may want to try Panthers Step-Pins med-soft. They work great everywhere on the XXX-NT.

Yea, it's strange because I really don't have hardly any problem with rear stability or grip. But it needs more turn-in, that's why I was suprised when I saw some running that way.

I thought about going with panther step pins, because I have heard several people on here talk about how good they are but it seems everybody at my track is running M3 bowties, or M3 holeshots. Ill probably try the panther step pins if see some new one for a good deal on ebay but otherwise (unless I like the panthers better) Im going to go with the bowties. Work well and last alot longer than holeshots. I thought about maybe putting the red back up front(instead of pink) and just going with a thinner oil) I guess I should acheive the same turn-in affect with less roll. But I think Im going to try the sway bar first, as soon as I find a good size to start with. I've just need to learn how to jump right so I stop bottoming out. lol:p

[Got Speed]

I may try the larger clutch bell too. I can't seem to get enough speed for some of the jumps. Or maybe it's how Im lined up. I don't know. I kind of know one of the guys that is one of the best racers in the state, Ill ask him about that. lol :D :cool:

[dissymmetry]

Thanks for reminding me. I forgot about that, suck! So the only option then for gearing up is to change the pinion then, or am I mistaken? (Unless you want to grind some on your a-arms ... no thanks. It seems like Losi did everything else right but that.

[banditwing]

Yeah on my sport the right rear arm is allready a little grinded (by losi) to allow spur gear clearance when the arm is compressed. Wouldn't making a smaller spur give you better top end if I'm correct? (Thats what it was for my eletrics anyway).

Although to make a smaller spur I think you would have to grind away at the slipper plates and make a smaller slipper pad because the spur is almost the same size as the plates and there really isn't anyway to shrink the spur without shrinking the plates. That is what I think, it might be wrong though...lol


-Banditwing

[LosiXXX-NTRacer]

Can anyone Help?

I am having trouble with my airfilter popping off on my Losi XXX-NT Sport. Is anyone else having this same problem? I have tried various widths of zip ties and as to no prevail, nothing is holding.

Does anyone have any ideas? please help.

[ksmi]

the front wheels are not straight. i rolled my car on the concrete pretty hard and now they are turned right some. i tried adjusting the trim on my transmittor but i dont think i shoud set it at a 100. if anyone knows what the deal is, please help.

[Philly's Finest]

Originally posted by DR.GT
Are you going to use foam tires?


yes, unless it would make more sense not to.

[morfracerX]

Originally posted by ksmi
the front wheels are not straight. i rolled my car on the concrete pretty hard and now they are turned right some. i tried adjusting the trim on my transmittor but i dont think i shoud set it at a 100. if anyone knows what the deal is, please help.

Check and see if you bent one of you turn buckles or servo tierod.

[dkj-M3]

ksmi- check & see if your front axle is bent.

[Nutter]

Originally posted by Got Speed
I have the ADE and I thought the turnbuckles, ball studs, and hingepins were lunsford ti. ?I'm a little late, but no one's answered this that I saw.. no, only the turnbuckles are Lunsford ti, the hingepins and ball studs are still stock steel. Don't be fooled though, ti ball studs break just as easily as steel I've found - I only run ti ballstuds all-round on my NT because of their hex head (the Losi ones), which makes them SO much easier to remove to adjust camber lengths.

dssymmerty: I'd have to agree with everyone else here I think.. there's very little room go increase the size of the spur, and because of the size of the slipper pads & backplate, there's also very little room to decrease the spur size either.
I wouldn't make the spur any larger for the NT, and at most I think 2-3 teeth smaller would be the furthest you could go in the other direction.

Philly's Finest: Let's see now, try some of these, all of which should help add some to its on-road handling.. heavy springs (such as blue), somewhere around 80wt shock oil, 3-A front and rear camber links, put the washers under the front steering knuckles, no washers under the front camber link ball studs, less anti-squat (0-1° maybe), 2° rear hubs, and internal shock limiters front and rear.
I'm sure there's more that I'm missing, but that should cover a lot of it. I'm pretty sure that I'm correct with all of that, but if not, please correct me. :)

ksmi: I'd check to make sure that your servo horn is still on straight - it's the thing that connects directly to your servo. Basically remove the servo horn, set your steering trim at 0, reinstall the servo horn so that the wheels are pointing straight, and then adjust your steering trim to get the truck to drive straight (as the output shaft of servo's only have around ~24 teeth, you can never put the servo horn on perfect).


-Nutter

[DR.GT]

Philly's Finest:

First off get foams (the right hardness for the track) and then I'd slam the truck down as low as possible (spacers inside the shocks) and stiffen up the shock fluid to around 40-50W and smaller holed pistons. If you can get or make some sway bars that might really help also. If not then try leaning the shocks in on the towers as you go along to give a more linear effect. Just watch that you don't get the inside wheel lifting.

Remember though, 80% of being dialed in is the right tire combo.

Goodluck, let me know how it goes...

:)

[winning edge designs]

LosiXXXNTracer, Be sure whe you re-install the filter assembly that it and the carb neck are completely free from oil or dirt. I usually use electric motor cleaner to clean the two surfaces. Then re-install with the parts dry and tighten down a fresh medium thickness zip-tie. This work is all because the fuel we use is so darn slippery, no Zip tie could hold if it's oily!

Banditwing, a smaller spur would be similar to a larger clutch bell/pinion. but for now all I know of is the 51 for the XXX-NT?.....Jim

[Grifter]

I was wondering if you guys had a preference for Throttle Reurn Springs.

I dont if the position of the Throttle Servo makes one Spring work better then the other. I noticed the Duratrax Spring is shorter then Associated.

So what do you?

I want to get a Fail Sfae too, but not right now.

Thanks!

[winning edge designs]

grifter, I use the TeamLosi throttle return springs included in the kits. I attach it to the servo arm and the upper deck in a location that puts a slight load on the linkage at idle. Some racers wrap it around the engine and use a engine mount bolt to secure the tab. This works also, but seems to need closer maintenance since it usually rubs the engine, etc. I haven't used a fail safe after seeing people not be able to control thier trucks during a race. The system "glitches" can take away control in the slightest of "percieved radio interference". Even when you could never notice any trouble during a race some fail safes do and take away control....imo, wait until you notice problems from radio hits before spending the cash on one.........Jim

[banditwing]

Grifter, what seems to work well for me is to drill a little hole on the outside of the servo arm, the side that holds the brake linkage. I attach the spring here and on the little hook on the reciever cover. This gives me more leverage over my servo and enough tension to pull my servo back to idle rather than using the spring on the stock (rtr) position on the servo arm. (which could not pull the servo back to neutral).

-Banditwing

[banditwing]

Hey, I'm thinking of buying a new body for my xnt, and I was wondering what you guys reccamend.

So far I really like the look of the stock body itself (not the rtr paint scheme though...)
I also took a look at the Fury Nt body, and I think that is an awsome body and that is my #1 choice right now.
I looked at the crowd pleazer, I don't really like the look that much.
I also have heard that there is a Triton body? What others are there and what do you reccamend?



Oh and what do you guys think of the aluminum drive shafts, worth the $10, or are stock axles fine?

And one more; Im pretty sure I will buy a OS Cvr slide carb for $125, are there any other good reliable engine choices out there for the same price or cheaper? Or should I stick with good ol' OS.


Thanks

[LosiXXX-NTRacer]

Banditwing-
Yes u r correct there is a triton body for the XNT.
Here is the link...

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=LOS8025

[banditwing]

LosiXXX-NTRacer-Thanks

The Trition looks nice, but IMO I like the Fury the best and stock in a very close second, I think I might go with the fury, because then people will think I have a drake edition hehe...:D

[Racin Rev]

banditwing,

I would advise against the os with the slide carb. I have that combo and while I love the engine, if i had it to do all over again, I would have gone with the barrel carb. Even with the steering exponential diled down it is hard to keep the rear tires straight on the pavement. I fixed my problem with a combination of a carb restrictor and a too cool plug (os5). The restrictor with a hot plug (os8) was still almost too much, but the cool plug without the restrictor took too much off. It is faster than anyone else on the track but wimpy compared to what it was. I have heard that the barrel carb doesn't hit as hard when you roll the throttle so you could access all of the power.

Anyone else who wants to jump in, go for it.

[Got Speed]

I think Pro Line also makes a GMC sierra low profile body that looks pretty good.

For the price of the non pull, slide carb CV-R you can't get a better engine IMHO. There are better engines like the Wasp .12(from Team Orion), MT .12(Mugen same as Novarossi), XS-12(Collari), and the RB .12(whatever it's called, I don't know). They are all a little better but it's not going to make much difference at all for bashing or club level racing. The other like the ones I listed usually run about $260-$280. Some of them are only sold in rear exhaust so you would have to buy the rear exuast header. I race my CV-R agains many other CV-Rs and Mugens but have no trouble keeping up, it's really mostly driving until your racing in nationals and all.

[banditwing]

The reason why im getting a slide, is that for $125 it's pull start and a cvr. I will race a little, but when Im not i'll just run it really rich to take off the edge. I am on a budget, and I think this is a great deal. I don't really want to pay $40 more for a barrell carb non-pullstart. But are than any other engines that are the same price? (Or cheaper) and still have as good or better performance?

Can I have a link for the GMC body, i've seen the eletric version, but I can't find the nitro version?

Thanks

[purplerides]

grifter - i use a AE return spring , it's shorter and is the right lenght to mount from the carb.arm to a motor mount bolt , like losi used to do with the GTX , i don't like there new set-up from servo arm to upper plate , not that it won't work but what if the collar on throttle linkage falls off the linkage will fall out of the servo horn and go where ever it wants , the way i do it the throttle will close.

[Grifter]

Originally posted by purplerides
Grifter - i use a AE return spring , it's shorter and is the right lenght to mount from the carb.arm to a motor mount bolt , like losi used to do with the GTX , i don't like there new set-up from servo arm to upper plate , not that it won't work but what if the collar on throttle linkage falls off the linkage will fall out of the servo horn and go where ever it wants , the way i do it the throttle will close.

OK, thanks guys!

Looks like I'll be getting the AE Throttle Return Spring.

[Got Speed]

Grifter- Or you can take the losi spring and for a slide carb attach it to the carb arm and then back to the right(looking at the truck from the front)shock tower bolt. For rotary you can trim it and the rebend the loop and put it on the arm and down to the rear engine mount bolt. Sorry if this has already been said. I didn't look.

banditwing- Yea, Im running the slide non pull in mine and it's great. I race it and have no trouble keeping up with the others. It's just more expensive engines have more of an edge to them. I though the one for $125 was non-pull? And the pull start one was something like $40 more?

[OmegaTrac]

I also think that the Picco is a really great motor. But, when It comes time for a rebuild I dont know what I should do? Should I rebuild the picco or buy a new motor?

[Got Speed]

Yea, piccos are great too but like you said rebuilds are a bear(unless you get them squezzed, still you will have to get a rebuild sometime) and Ive heard many people have so much trouble tuning the carbs they swap the picco carb for a rossi. I don't know there good motors but they give equal performance and still cost more.

I am very pleased with my .12 CV-R. I don't think there is a better engine for the same or less price. O.S. has always made easily tuneable engine too. If I could have any engine I wanted I would probably go with the Wasp, Collari, Mugen, or RB though. Does anyone own one of those ofna 7 port engines? Those look awesome but too bad there illegal for racing.

[banditwing]

The OS cvrx 10c slide on road carb is $125 at tower. Im not sure what the non-pullstart is. I do know that a pullstart barrell is quite a bit more.

Here is the link to the one i'll be getting:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXXA45&P=7



I think that is an awsome deal, I hope to be able to get it in the near future, but the way it looks now I might have to wait until the spring, hope the price is still low.

[morfracerX]

dam, that looks like a good deal for an OS with a PS. if my motor dies soon i'll have to pick that up.

[Scrad]

Bandit, wait till just before Christmas. Tower always has really good deals before Christmas. I got a Ultima with a motor for $200 last year.

[banditwing]

I dunno if I can get it before christmas. Since the price has stayed the same for over a month now, I think it is the price to stay, so I think I will get it when I can. (Which doesn't look like it will be so soon). (Or I will wait till the price goes down again if it does rise).

I think that this is not a glitch in towers pricing either (which I thought at first) because the non pull start sg crank is $97!

[Scrad]

Trust me it will go down by Christmas. Wait another month or two.

[morfracerX]

The only time this happens is when there is a new motor coming out. anyone hear anyword on OS coming out with a new .12?

[Got Speed]

wow, when I got my engine a few months ago the pull start was like $30 more. Mabye not but I think it was. I also thought the sg shaft one was $125. Too bad an SG shaft won't work on an NT.

What is the best aftermarket cooling head for the .12 CV-R? I've been thinking about getting the hardcore mutant head but I'd like to hear what you guys are using.

[ortin man]

I finished building the AD xxxnt and had to post the results:D http://community.webshots.com/photo/48441132/52238867xYBFQD

[jdm3849]

Have you got a chance to run the drake with the bumper yet? Does it do any good? or do you think it looks stupid? would you suggest me getting one if im getting big air?

[Grifter]

Originally posted by jdm3849
Have you got a chance to run the drake with the bumper yet? Does it do any good? or do you think it looks stupid? would you suggest me getting one if im getting big air?

Oh it works!!

I have one on my Rustler and it has saved it from so many Crashes, and has never broke.

I think it looks cool too.

[banditwing]

I have one on my E-rustler also. I have broken two of them. (Of course those were high speed crashes into trees (Hey I couldn't see;) ) dead on, but if I did not have it I seriously do not doutbt that there would be bulkhead or even chassis damage. I could mail them to RPM and they will give me new ones guaranteed, but I already drilled some holes in them in an attempt to retro fit on my xnt. It has also saved numerous A-arms. I highly recamend it for the $7 that it is.


I am going to buy a rmp xxx series one, or see if I can retro fit it to an xnt either way I think RPM makes an excellent product.

[winning edge designs]

Banditwing, the probelm with light drivetrain parts in a gas truck is the lack of traction. Anytime you lighten driveline you make the truck harder to drive on anything less then ideal traction surfaces. I would stay away from aluminum axles, or trans shafts, etc. unless you race on a high bite track and have very good throttle control.

Gotspeed, check out nitro specialties, or broward precision(same company,partner) along with the req'd dots and coms. I use thier .12 and .21 heads and they run cool and look sweet at the same time!.........Jim

[Philly's Finest]

okay so i finally started breakin yesterday and at the end of the 3rd tank my engine siezed. The piston is stuck at the top. I was thinking of getting a new engine but for a few weeks. ***?

Anyway a buddy of mine told me that the piston is gonna need to be replaced. This is a brand new stock xnt sport. If it does need to be replaced would that be a warrenty issue?

And any idea's why this happened. I was breaking it in by the manual. My buddy helped me w/ break in. He said I should have ran 2 tanks through at idle, then the 3 at half. I just ran three then it got stock.

[ortin man]

Having the bumper is essential to the preservation of this fine vehicle. I think not to have one is to neglect protecting against the "Murphy Law";)

BTW- It would be nice to see some of you guys XXXNT's....

[morfracerX]

Philly's Finest

Man dont you dare come out yor pockets for another motor, that should not have heppend. Call up losi or e-mail them, in cases like this (if you bought it new from a hobby shop) they will replace the motor at no cost to you.

Also i have no idea why that would have happened, unless you ran it way to lean but if you used the break in settings i cant see how :confused: :confused: .



ortin man

i should have some pics of my truck up soon, all i have is some pics of the body i did (not that dam great not great at all).




http://24.76.40.199/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=287

[dkj-M3]

Philly's Finest- always keep the piston at the bottom when it's cooling/not running. turn the flywheel until it's at it's looses/no pressure point. Also check to see if it's flooded.

[banditwing]

Thanks W.E.D.!

Well, I managed to retro fit my Rustler RPM bumper to my XNT with a little bit of dremeling and hole drilling. Whats great is that the rustler mounting holes are still intact, so I can always put it back on my rustler if need be (yeah right haha:D ).


My Mach .15 is running horribly. The only way I can get it to start is 5 turns out on the low speed (Factory setting is 4). And it will bog down and stall so much. When I lean it out, I can't start it. If I start it rich then lean it, it will usually stall. I am getting really bad performance, wont idle well. AHH I think it is because my Piston and Sleeve are worn, but it's making me mad. Thing is I don't have enough money to get a new engine right now and there are many other things I could use before an engine.

[Racin Rev]

Philly's Finest,

dkj-M3 is right. Before you start calling everyone and being embarrassed do what he said.

In checking for flooding I would remove the glow plug and turn the engine over to see what comes out. My guess is a lot of fuel if it hasnt already drained out of your pipe. Also before you try to yank on the flywheel heat the head thoroughly with a blow dryer and then turn it. It will expand the sleeve and loosen the grip of the piston. In the cool weather you are experiencing you may need to preheat your head before starting until break in is completed.

BTW be aware that the "chicken coop" gas tank on the Losi is prone to causing engine flooding, though it works well when the engine is running. A trick that I have found to work is to use forcepts to clamp off the fuel line to shut the engine down (never block the stinger), then leave the forcepts on the fuel line until you are ready to start again.

Good luck.

[ortin man]

morfracerX- what a sweet body!!!!
:)

[morfracerX]

Ok just so I don't feel as bad, When you say "seized" what exactly do you mean? When I heard that I thought the worst, listen to these guys that hair dryer trick helped me out with a few motors. but if in fact the motor is DOA.....


Thanks ortin, I messed up in a few spots and got the wrong kind of yellow so it didn't turn out as I planed but hey what dose.

[Philly's Finest]

okay actually what happened was the flywheel got stuck at the end of the 2nd tank so I check and it was flooded. No biggie I thought and I let it drain and cool then went on to the 3rd tank.
Then I went to check the diff which was okay.

I was gonna start the on the 4th tank and nothing. Flywheel won't budge. So I removed the plug again and turned over but nothing came out. It was getting dark so I bought it in for the night. Took the furel out of the tank. Started to check things out to see why the flywheel wouldn't turn. Seems the pins had not been installed w/ lock-tite.

Now I firgured I might as well take the whole engine out and lock tite everything just to be safe. That's when I realized the piston is at the top. I tried oil to see if it would slide down on it's own. I'll try the blow dryer. Hopefully that will work.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by banditwing
Thanks W.E.D.!

Well, I managed to retro fit my Rustler RPM bumper to my XNT with a little bit of dremeling and hole drilling. Whats great is that the rustler mounting holes are still intact, so I can always put it back on my rustler if need be (yeah right haha:D ).


My Mach .15 is running horribly. The only way I can get it to start is 5 turns out on the low speed (Factory setting is 4). And it will bog down and stall so much. When I lean it out, I can't start it. If I start it rich then lean it, it will usually stall. I am getting really bad performance, wont idle well. AHH I think it is because my Piston and Sleeve are worn, but it's making me mad. Thing is I don't have enough money to get a new engine right now and there are many other things I could use before an engine.

Yes, it sounds like your piston and sleeve are worn. You can either get a new engine(wouldn't suggest a new mach .15 though, you could get a .12 CV-R for only a little more) or you could get your p/s squeezed by osrocket. He sells his service for about $25. He has abunch of auctions on ebay for the service. Search for Piston/Sleeve. If you don't want to buy a new engine just get back up and running that's the way to go. Ive never done it but Ive heard of many pleased people that say it lasts just as long as a new p/s and gives the same if not a little more performance.

[banditwing]

Got Speed, I was hoping to get the CVR slide I was talking about, but with more things coming up on my rc to-get list, I think I may just replace the piston and sleeve now ($30) and get a little better at tuning, and then when I can afford it buy a cvr (sometime next year/summer, when I can properly break it in when it's warm too).


Whats weird is the engine runs fairly ok when running, but it is a bear to get started. It takes at least 20-30 pulls on the pull starter to get it started, and thats after constantly readjusting the low speed to try and get the right fuel mixture. I might try taking out the head shim to get some more compression.

The XNT is extremly durable, I was doing some crazy jumps today, 10 feet high, 10 feet distance really getting some major air. I was landing upside down, face first, and a couple really flat ones where the whole chassis just bottomed out really hard. In fact it must have really slapped the ground hard at least 20 times. On my rustler there would have been something in the tranny going for sure. There was no landing ramp either! Nothing broke, engine didn't even stall (but it did other times). My RPM bumper really saved me a couple of a-arms though, probly maybe about 2-3 arms! Not bad for something that cost $7!

The way I installed the RPM Rustler bumper, it is more angled upright than the xxx series one, so it's more out of the way when you nose a jump, and it doesn't protrude as much.

-Banditwing

[winning edge designs]

philly'sfinest, it's possible that your engine is fine. Try removing the glow plug and turning the flywheel with a pair of needle nose. Use the chassis as leverage if needed. This problem can happen on .12's but is much more common to .21 engines. If you let it cool with the piston at top dead center it squeezes it in the sleeve.
If the engine just refuses to turn at all it must have gotten pretty hot and done some damage(note: I have yet to see one I couldn't get loose!). If this is the case contact Losi and they will likely repair the engine for you......Afterwards, As someone said earlier, always try and get the piston out of top dead center before allowing it to cool.........Jim

[Philly's Finest]

thank you all for your help!

the hair dryer worked. I got it to fall back to the bottom. finished break-in now.:D was racing some friends and grazed a fence. snapped the turnbuckle in half! it's cool though, I was gonna get lunsfurds anyways.

thanks again!

[Keiger]

Well my 12 cvrx form tower showed up today. Its not a glich in price I paid 124.00 for it.
Here is my question for you all. Will it fit in a Drake truck? I have heard that the pull start is to big to sit in there right?
I am really likeing the Losi, but have only had GT10s

[speedydave]

The Drake edition XXX-NT comes with a manifold that is only for non-pullstart engines, so your pullstart CVR(or any other pullstart engine, period) will not fit, unless you buy a new manifold.

[Got Speed]

Unless you really like the pull start I would suggest getting a bump starter or starter box instead of buying a pull start manifold.

[Keiger]

My problem is I get upside down quite a bit and kill the thing. So it is easier for me to just start it there instead of going back and restarting it with a box. Besides I like getting my work out by pullling on the starter 100 times up here at 8500 feet. LOL
Can I convert that new 12cvrx into a box starter????

[Got Speed]

Yes, you would have to get a non pull start back plate and cut the end of of the crank pin where the PS shaft slides on.

[Corey_25]

Whats a engine that will really make this truck rip that will fit the factory drake pipe and header? somthing easy to tune and in the $150 price range mabye

[dkj-M3]

Novarossi CX-12 if you can find it. One of the hobby shops near me is selling them for $135

[ortin man]

Corey_25 - I have the O.S. CVR max slide carb in my AD edition xxxnt. My rig is Quite new, engine has about 18 tanks and this baby is beginning to move like a rabbit dat heard a gun shot. I paid $133.00 for mine, you will not be disappointed.

[CTurbo]

Does anyone have experience with the OS cvr .15 on the xxx-nt. My racing club let us use any small block and the size and traction of our tracks require lots of power but the more common engines are OS TR .12 and Novarossi .12. My concern is rpm capability because our gearing selection limitation. I need your experience because I know what the spec. sheets says.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Corey_25
Whats a engine that will really make this truck rip that will fit the factory drake pipe and header? somthing easy to tune and in the $150 price range mabye

Mugen MT-12(same as novarossi except cheaper) is about that much more or less depending on where you buy it. It is a little better than the CV-R but not much. Im not sure if you can get them in side exhuast though. lol I looked at getting one when I bought an engine for My NT AD but never though aboutthe exuast, lol.

Id say either a CV-R or Mugen(or CX-12 same thing). Personally I like slide carbs.

Ydkj-M3-You can get a Novarossi for $135!?

[dkj-M3]

yep- I think they had like 3 more left.

Believers - Indoor offroad (gas and electric)
2996 Henkle Dr.
Lebanon, OH
45036
(513)934-0990

[kvn xxx-nt]

Originally posted by CTurbo
Does anyone have experience with the OS cvr .15 on the xxx-nt. My racing club let us use any small block and the size and traction of our tracks require lots of power but the more common engines are OS TR .12 and Novarossi .12. My concern is rpm capability because our gearing selection limitation. I need your experience because I know what the spec. sheets says. I run a .15 cv-r in my ade xxx-nt. When I take off it will go for about 15 feet then it wants wheelie and flip over. This is with a 18t clutch bell. Currently using a 20t clutch bell and it hauls but doesn't rev quite as fast. I need to try a 19t clutch bell to try and get it to rev faster and keep the front end on the ground. It is way faster then my brothers rc10 with a 12 cv-r.

[morfracerX]

hey KVN they let you race with that .15? you're lucky at hotrods you can only racee with .12's(unless it's a rtr .15)

[morfracerX]

97

[morfracerX]

98

[morfracerX]

99

[morfracerX]

THE XXXNT THREAD HAS JUST HIT THE 4K CLUB

[ortin man]

Does anyone know if losi make a two speed option for the xxxnt. I was wondering if any of you may have information or even tried this mod yet?

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by kvn xxx-nt
I run a .15 cv-r in my ade xxx-nt. When I take off it will go for about 15 feet then it wants wheelie and flip over. This is with a 18t clutch bell. Currently using a 20t clutch bell and it hauls but doesn't rev quite as fast. I need to try a 19t clutch bell to try and get it to rev faster and keep the front end on the ground. It is way faster then my brothers rc10 with a 12 cv-r.

Going with more teeth on the clutch bell is probably the best thing to do since you arn't losing any performance, just trading some bottom end for top end. If it still wheelies, or you don't want to try changing the gearing, you could also loosen the slipper 1/8th of a turn or more until it won't wheelie(but make sure it isn't too loose or else you may melt your spur gear), or you can add a carb restrictor(Id start with the smaller one first). LOL I wish I had enough power to wheelie with a track setup. But Im still pleased with my .12 CV-R.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by ortin man
Does anyone know if losi make a two speed option for the xxxnt. I was wondering if any of you may have information or even tried this mod yet?

No, nobody makes a two-speed conversion for the NT. I doubt they would be able to squeeze one in there. Im not sure how well it would work with a 2wd ST either.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Got Speed
Going with more teeth on the clutch bell is probably the best thing to do since you arn't losing any performance, just trading some bottom end for top end. If it still wheelies, or you don't want to try changing the gearing, you could also loosen the slipper 1/8th of a turn or more until it won't wheelie(but make sure it isn't too loose or else you may melt your spur gear), or you can add a carb restrictor(Id start with the smaller one first). LOL I wish I had enough power to wheelie with a track setup. But Im still pleased with my .12 CV-R.

Also, if your accelerating just as fast out of the corners as other people, accelerating fast enough for jumps, and not overheating or straining your engine, I would just stick with the 20T CB.

[winning edge designs]

Wow, i'm pulling wheelies and have plenty of power with a .12, can't imagine a .15. Must be lots of bite at your tracks?......Jim

[jcnmt]

sup guys? i just got my xxxnt limited edition this thing is sweet!:D

[DR.GT]

WED:

I've got a skookum MT.12/slide and yes sometimes detuning helps keep the front end down combined with the blue restrictor
but "One has to do what one has to do." I usually try to keep my slipper as tight as possible (without explosions) and my diff pretty tight. Thats with racing on a track with traction with a 160' straight.

.15's Nah!



:)

[morfracerX]

Ok guys my xxxnt came in today, i spent all day putting it back together (the guy i bought it from felt the need to dam near take it apart).

It looks more like my NXT then i ever thought it would, i hope to get somre driving time in this weekend. If not then then some time next week for sure. it's funny after i got everything all put together i forgot to put those two svrews in by the spur gear and had to tear the tank and center brace off. even worse, i dont have any 1/10 body clips all my 1/8 clips wont fit the holes lol.

[morfracerX]

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid36/p56849d5b2f9c01a43ce6c6ab36871c0e/fd26748b.jpg

i dont think i have the stock RTR pipe, mines is all black with no rubber tip and it says Losi on it.

[jdm3849]

I have the RTR pipe and it is all black with "TL" engraved in it, the stinger (tip) is aluminum just like the pipe.

[winning edge designs]

Dr Gt., Sounds like you're doing it right! We have some really big tracks here too. In fact, the gas truck racers have been complaining about tracks set-up for 1/8th scales. We've been running on a 220 foot plus straight, A lap time in the low 30's is exceptional in 1/8th, LOL!....I'm not sure how big the Miami tracks straight are, but i'll know in about a week and a half!...Jim

[jcnmt]

hey w.e.d. what track is that?you going to the roar race down there?

[winning edge designs]

jcnmt, the track is the "boggy Creek" track in kissimmee. Yes I am going to the Miami gas nationals to represent: Winning Edge Design/TeamLosi/Orion/Crono/Superior Hobbies/Rocket Science fuels and MBR racing...:).

Are you racing the nats?.....Jim

[jcnmt]

i might ihave to put the gt back together from the last race and i havent built my losi yet.i hope to at least go watch it. good luck!

[winning edge designs]

Thanks man, maybe i'll see you there. Just look for the older guy trying to keep up with the kids, but usually smiling anyway, haha.....Jim

[a_RC_a]

Do they make any of the sport models in the US. I've heard that the foreign ones break pretty easily. So would I be better off to buy the the sport rtr, sport arr, or reg. xxx-nt?

[Got Speed]

I would get a kit and add your engine and electronics. Even if you are new to the hobby. Buying everything will cost you more but you will get higher quality parts, a better engine of your choice, and nothing wrong with the RTR radio but you will be able to buy a radio most suited to your budget, style, ect.

[cabbynate]

Here is some good advice for all you racers.

NEVER go more than 3-4 race days without changing your wheel pins. You would really hate to lose a race do to a 10 cent wheel pin. (Trust me, I been there, done that.) ;)

[Philly's Finest]

a_RC_a: I got a RTR recently. I must say the thing is pretty durable. The front a-arms are pretty week but thats about it. If/When you get the sport just spend 7 bucks and get the extra arms and your set.

I have been abusing the hell out of my truck this weekend. I was jumping it off kicker downhill on concrete. Ran into some poles, fences, and walls. It was crazy and I'm really getting the mach to hook up now. All I broke was the arms and top front turnbuckles but thats not bad for that kind of abuse

[DR.GT]

I don't change my wheel pins that often but it can't hurt as you say. I go to my LHS and pick up some piano wire of the same thickness and cut to the length I need. Its much stronger than the stock pins.

:)

[cabbynate]

DR.GT,

You would not know what thickness that piano wire is do you?
That sounds like a VERY good idea.

[LasagnaCat]

We've been doing that with the piano wire for ages also, it's a heck of a lot cheaper too. Another alternative if you ever get stuck without extras is to find an allen wrench that fits the hole, same concept as the wire. Years ago I did the allen wrench thing at a track with no hobby shop/parts on site and that darn piece of wrench was still in the truck almost two years later when I sold it...

[Shady]

Originally posted by cabbynate
Here is some good advice for all you racers.

NEVER go more than 3-4 race days without changing your wheel pins. You would really hate to lose a race do to a 10 cent wheel pin. (Trust me, I been there, done that.) ;)

my trks over 2 years old and i have never broke a wheel pin, same ones for those 2 years to

[banditwing]

I'm with Got Speed on this one. I think that buying the Regular kit and your own engine and electronics is the best way to go-if you have the money.

Me, I didn't have enough $ to go splurg on a new engine, and $270 kit at the time. So I think a $209 arr is much better because it includes an ok engine and the same xnt. Now, I wish I got the kit, because EVERYTHING is the rtr plastic on the xnt, and I mean every part that could be plastic is the weak plastic. I agree with Philly's Finest though, the only part that you really need stiffezel is the front a-arms, I replaced mine with stiffezel after breaking two rtr plastic ones and im fine. (My RPM bumper also helped, but Stiffezel is much better than rtr plastic).

-Banditwing

[cabbynate]

Shady,
I break wheel pins a lot. I run on a high traction track & a lot of power so I will be looking to the piano wire and the allen wrenck thing sounds good too.

[morfracerX]

Well i ran her this weekend, yep, i ran her for a good 50 seconds before my flywheel came lose and i wnet home due to lack of tools where i was at.o well i will try and run sometime this week.


LasagnaCat
a good allen wrench can be your best friend, i have used them for everything from set pins pipe mounting kits and even my linkage set in a real bind.

Anyone have the RPM bumper part number? i went looking for one this weekend while i was at the track and the shop keeper said he didn't think RPM made one for the xxxnt yet.

[Shady]

cabbynate- i am not saying you shouldn't do that, i just stating that i never have had a problem with them, when mine break(if they ever do) i will prolly try that to, btw- i drive one hard packed tracks and a track with so much traction i hit half throttle and it yanks the front up, with a stock cv with a duratrax head

[Racer123091]

i recommend not getting the RPM bumper if you are going to race i used mine for about 30 seconds and then i took it off because if you do not land perfectly level then your front end will dip and dig up a ton of dirt, slowing you down, stick with the stock bumper

[a_RC_a]

What I was getting at before was. I heard that the Sport rtr breaks a signifigant amount more than the american made model. Is this just for a certain part? Or what?

[winning edge designs]

If you guys want hard wheel pins order A-6401 from your LHS. The part number includes about 8 or so rolled pins and 2 very strong solid ones. I think it is $2.00 or so and saves a bit of work.

I have broken off the rolled pins also, only when I get lazy and don't swap them out. You can usually spot a slight tweak in them if you look close before they're going to snap. And they will!!! The solid ones, never broke one, butthey fall out if you don't give em' a squeeze with a side cutter to mark them before installing.......Jim

[slodsm]

I have to disagree with the breakage of the RTR versus the kit. I have both. I race a fully graphite (no tthe AD version) XXX NT and about two months ago, I bought and RTR since I was trying to get my wife to drive some and see why I spend so much cash on these things. Well, I was a at a race a week later with both trucks and I broke my rear tie rod ends in a crash. Didn't have extras cause I use 1/8 scale ends and the LHS didn't have any. Well, I pulled out the RTR since it was there cause I had ran fast enough in one of the heats to make the main and I was not going to miss it. I ran the RTR truck through a 25 minute main and Placed second. Truck handled great, no flame outs, temp at the end of the race was 250 something. I would not bash it at all personaly, the RTR plastic is just a little more flexible and will not break as soon as graphite will because it is stiff.

[cabbynate]

Thanks for the input Jim.
I ended up getting a 3rd place finish over all in the Pro-Line summer points series over a rolled wheel pin. Had I have not broke the pin I would have had 2nd. I have some of the solid pins, I will try your trick with the side cutter and see how that works. ;)

[a_RC_a]

So you guys think that the rtr would be a good truck to bash. And that the plastic in the foreign made sport RTR would hold up?

[slodsm]

Originally posted by a_RC_a
So you guys think that the rtr would be a good truck to bash. And that the plastic in the foreign made sport RTR would hold up?



It would be a fine truck to bash and even race later on if you get interested in it. And the plastic is just fine, I have managed to break more on my Kit XXX NT than on my RTR, my wife hit a trash can wide open with it and broke an A arm and a turnbuckle, that is it. And when I play with it, I do stupid stuff with it and it holds up just fine.

[cabbynate]

Has anyone tried using the rear slipper pad for the XX-4 in place of the slipper pads on there NT? I did and I also used the spring from the electric xxx and things seem to be working well. I feel that the electric spring gives me more ajustment and the XX-4 rear slipper pad is a different material and seems to hold up longer/better than the stock ones on the XXX-NT.

[banditwing]

slodsm, I don't know about Graphite Front arms, but the stifezel holds up better than the RTR plastic IMO. The rest of the truck is fine, but I think the front arms rtr material are weak.

Racer123091, I think that the RPM bumper is a great addition but I see what you mean by it sticks out too much. What I have had good sucess with is modifying an Electric Rustler Wide RPM bumper to fit my xnt, it is anlged up more than the xxx series one so it is not in the way at all, but still provides good protection.

[cabbynate]

Racer123,
I did what banditwing did. Works great. It never digs in, just slides right through a nose down landing.:)

[banditwing]

Cool cabbynate, I feel honored that someone has tried my mod.:) lol

[winning edge designs]

cabbynate, the xx4 slipper pads in the grey color are a more aggressive material. You can run them slightly looser(tension) but still have very good forward acceleration. I think thier use was so the rear wouldn't slip as much as the front with the same spring holding the plates together on the xx4?....I will give them a try myself.....Jim

[Shady]

whats the part number for the pads, i need some new ones, so i will try them

[cabbynate]

Shady,
LOS3224 is the part number. I think they will last a lot longer and stay more consistent. Make sure to run the slipper loose to break the new pads in. (Then still run the slipper loose.);)

[Shady]

ok, i should have them by this weekend and run them sunday

[Ad racing]

I see the discussion on slipper's and was wondering, how many turns out are you guys running them ? I run on a slippery track with a little to much power os 12tr. I am currently running the slipper at 4 1/2 turns out, does anybody run more ? Thanks for any tips

[Got Speed]

Id like to know how many turns in from the nut touching the spring your guys slipper is. Because people put there slipper shaft in different amounts into the top shaft. I have mine with about 1 to 1 1/2 turn in. LMK what you guys use turned in from the nut touching the spring. Mine seems to be ok, but I don't want to be too loose or tight.

BTW: last night I got 4th in both qualifiers, and 9/10 in the main due to me missing the first half of the main because my slipper nut loosend right off nearly. LOL :p

[cabbynate]

Ad racing,
I don't think there is a base setting for the slipper. Hold the rigth wheel and the spur gear and try to turn the left wheel forward. It should turn with with some resistance and the slipper shaft should be turning to.

Got Speed,
The set up I run above with the XX-4 rear slipper pads and the XXX electric slipper spring works really well. You should give it a try.

[winning edge designs]

I think the manual says to start at 5 turns after setting the diff, etc. I know of some racers running 7 turns out though. I think it depends on how much tension a particular spring has, or how well we count our turns, haha. I would set the diff as tight as you can stand the feel of it after break in. Then set the slipper as tight as you can without making the diff slip while testing the adjustment. Then use a 1/2 turn looser if needed. Depending on track conditions. I usually use throttle epo on slippery tracks rather then loosen the slipper. since getting over decent size jumps is harder with it slipping more. I'm at -70 exp on my throttle!............Jim

[a_RC_a]

I heard you can't use a pull start engine on the Drake edition. Is this true? Are there any easy mods to make it accept a pull start?

[Ad racing]

Thanks winning edge, there are a couple of big jumps to clear, but i haven't had any problem over jumping them :-) (lack of throttle control) I've read quite a few of your posts and it looks like you have a pretty good grasp of what's going on. I'm going to try a little looser on the slipper this weekend.

[winning edge designs]

a rc a, You can use a pullstart, but you'll need the motor mount spacers(or mounts for pullstart) and a pullstart exhaust header(manifold).

ad racing, thanks. I'm still learning like most, but after 16 years of doing this and now with my two young boys racing I need to have alot of info myself,heh....Jim

[Philly's Finest]

anyone know how durable the AE turnbuckles are compared to the lunsfords?

i should be getting a pair for the front ones a bent up. plus i got them just to ad some color to my truck. i'll be getting the others next week & if they aren't as good i'll just get the lunsfords. lol, i using some paper thin tb's from my emt.

[a_RC_a]

What are the part numbers for the motor mount spacers and the header for a recoil engine. Also this is probably a very retarded question but since I'm new to nitro I'll go ahead and ask, Does the xxx-nt take a side exhuast, rear exhuast or what?

[cabbynate]

a_RC_a,
A-9336 for the engine spacers and A-9321 for the header. You will want to run standard side exhuast for that set-up.

[losixxxnt]

just wanted to see if the picture would work.

[Shady]

here is my nt, won the club race this past weekend at my home track

[Tstalion79]

Cool body, especially for a 1 color job. I just painted an xxx-nt body for Rick Hohwart. His schemes are so cool.

[Shady]

yeah, thats one of the reasons i was willing to paint it like that, easy to do and looks cool to

[winning edge designs]

philliesfinest, last I heard lunsford was manufacturing the Ti-turnbuckles for A/E and most others as well.


tstalion, what happened to Thunder Wessels?......Jim

[Tstalion79]

Thunder just left Orion a couple weeks ago and is no longer painting bodies for Rick. I just got the job last week and I just finished my first body for him that he is racing monday at the fuel nats (he's racing a xxxnt)

[Philly's Finest]

thanks w.e.d.

[Crashbot2001]

hey guys, i picked up a CVR .12 Pilot shaft version with the intentions of cutting the shaft dwon to put in my XXXNT. Problem is, the diameter of the shaft seems larger than it should be.. My flywheel won't even fit on it. What gives? Is there a way around this? do I need to get a different shaft for it or can I use a different flywheel clutch set-up?? Thanks!

[Tstalion79]

I know that an RC10GT flywheel and nut will fit, but i dont know if
it will fit a losi.

[winning edge designs]

Tstalion, thats cool for you. I had hoped they would let me in on that since I also paint bodies (Winning Edge Designs,etc.)and I drive for them. But I honestly probably couldn't handle more work now anyhow. Good luck and be careful how cheaply you do it. Trying to get work is a good thing, getting it at near your cost and not much profit isn't, :).

crashbot, A pilot shaft won't work without the correct pilot shaft flywheel and hardware, clutch,etc. You also have to be carefull about spacing of the flywheel, so it aligns with the cutout in the chassis, etc. It may be more costly then the correct style engine?.......Jim

[Tstalion79]

Winning edge- I actually paint for Rick at no charge. And yes, I know that I cant skimp on the job. I take great pride in my bodies, especially rick's, as they appear in RCCA quite often...

[cabbynate]

Hey Jim,
Do you know if there is an off-road track near Tampa? My sister may move there and that would give me a reason to go visit her.:)
Thanks,
Nate

[jcnmt]

yeah theres a track in tampa!one in bartow and one in seffner!

[winning edge designs]

stalion, he has you painting them for free huh? hmmmm. Actually it's a good way to get a foot in the door as they say. But i've stopped doing free jobs, since the ones I was painting free seemed to need the most bodies and it kept me from my paying customers. Now i take either merchandise in trade or less money from a select few racers.......Maybe that's why Rick didn't call me,LOL.

Cabbynate, yup, quite a few in central florida area within a 2 hour drive. Tampa has WCRCC west coast RC club, home of the Fl orida WinterChamps in February. There is also Minnreg in clearwater nearby, home of the next electric Ifmar worlds,several National events, both off-road and carpet. Clearwater also has Speedline hobbies(parking lot) but they are currently moving to a new location as yet unknown, but soon. We have Goar racing in Kissimmee at Boggy Creek, once a month, both gas and electric off-road, Bartow(as mentioned,:)) Superior Hobbies races in the parking lot first sunday of each month...........Daytona has an on-road and an off-road facility....Ocala has a very good off-road track.........there may be more, but I can't remember them all....:),Jim

[Tstalion79]

Well, he supplies the body. I just supply the man hours and paint (which is no more than a few dollars per body). I am happy to paint for free because he lists me as a sponsor, and that attracts many more customers. He is also a really good guy, and that is part of the reason for not charging him anything.

[cabbynate]

W.E.D,
Thanks for all the track info. I may move there to with all those tracks around. We do not have a gas off-road track here in Vegas and I'm tired of hearing one is comming. We will see.....

[winning edge designs]

tstalion, exactly, I don't blame you for doing it. There are a select few racers who I could justify painting for, for no charge myself. But I actually haven't had much luck with Pro drivers selling my work in the past. They have thousands of dollars in equipment to try and sell. Usually friends that are fast locally are better at it. In fact when a good friend of mine worked at Pro-line I was doing bodies for thier adds, as well as some bodies for TeamLosi, Schumacher, etc. That helped alot, but now there are so many painters it's tuff to make a decent amount on the time and effort it takes. I'm definatly not getting rich doing it, in fact I figured out my time investment vs profit last year. I ended up making about 8 dollars an hour......ouch. Some painters i've talked with say that's actually pretty good. Still pluggin' away, :). I have a site at jconcepts.net.

Cabbynate, that would be sweet. We have alot of fast racers here. Some with national titles, one who's been in the top 7 in 2w at the worlds, alot who are regulars in the A mains at on-road and off-road national events........Lately it's gotten alot less "serious" at club races though, thankfully, LOL. For a while we were using new tires every run for club events!........Alot more fun now...Jim

[tarvymoto]

Jim , it sounds like I need to show up at your track with a 6pak and few cigars:D . Seriously though , I've moved back to FL , so maybe we'll meet at a race sooner or later. BTW ...Jim has done some paint work for me and "the man can paint" so give him your next paint job!
Travis

[tarvymoto]

wow dbl post

[winning edge designs]

Cool, thanks Trav. I'll look for you after I get back from the nationals at some club races.......Jim

[drdirt]

Hi Kids; Where has the summer gone? Wow has time flown by, or what? You guys have helped me a lot before, so I just have one little question. I've been nuts for a month. Half way down the straight my truck starts missing is the only way to describe it. It just dies then wants to take off. At the end of the straight it's not wanting to slow down without slamming on the brakes. And the steering seems twitchy also. I changed engines and that one did it too. At half throttle it runs fine and steers ok till you go full throttle. Changed tank, lines, pipe and carbs to no avail. Could a receiver or crystals do that? Thanks again, Jim Cogill

[Tstalion79]

It is almost definately your radio. Get a nice FM radio. Also make sure that your linkages are set up right.

[Corey_25]

Anyone know an online hobbyshop where i can see a limited edition or a special edition?

[Corey_25]

Anyone know an online hobbyshop where i can see a limited edition or a special edition?

[Tstalion79]

It looks just like a regular XXX-NT but it has graphite where the plastic was.

[Corey_25]

oh...ic....so i'd probably be better off buying the xxx nt sport....its supposed to have a good radio system....but ive head people say am radio's suck.....is the xr2 a good radio.....or should i plan on upgrading.....?

[Tstalion79]

The XR2 has nice features, but yes, it is AM, and you really will have trouble racing with AM because when lots of other people are driving it gets twitchy on ya. Your best bet would be to get the bench built RTR truck. It has a great engine and an FM radio, the XR3.

[Corey_25]

where can i get a bench built rtr truck....i cant find one on the net?

[LasagnaCat]

They've been out for a while now. You might end up having to just nose around until you find someone that has one on a shelf somewhere or look around on eBay. One of our two NT's is a bench built that I picked up on eBay shipped for $305 new because the seller had a REALLY bad description and pictures. Just be sure that if you find one used or on eBay that it comes with the bench built box and/or authentication papers...

[drdirt]

horizon hobby should be able to help you out as they are the distributor for losi

[Scrad]

Last time I saw the bench built was at Stormerhobbies, but that was awhile ago.

[maxman142001]

Hey Got speed are you going to the State Champs. at SRS this weekend?

[Corey_25]

I found a benchbuilt xxx nt rtr and i think i would be better off going with the xxx nt sport since i will be doing alot of backyard bashing cause all the tracks around here are about 3 hrs away... oh well :(

[Tstalion79]

Good idea. The sport is also more durable because it uses more flexible, less brittle plastic parts. They arent the best for racing, but they are the perfect receipe for bashing.


On another note, can an XXX-NT accept a slide valve carb? Will i need extra parts?

[Shady]

it comes with everything you need and tells you how to in the manuel if you still have it

[kvn xxx-nt]

I need to get a new body for my xxx-nt. I have been searching for different ones. I could only find three different ones. The two from Losi, Triton and Fury. They other one was a proline crowd pleaser. Any body know of any others??:confused:

[a_RC_a]

What engine would be a good choice for easy tuning? An os cv-rx or what. I want to get one with a pull start.

[Tstalion79]

The .12 CV-RX would be your best bet. It is ridiculously easy to tune (like all os engines) and is very reliable, and also has some balls.

For bodies, I would get the Crowd Pleazer. It is very good looking as well as aerodynamic.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Tstalion79
Good idea. The sport is also more durable because it uses more flexible, less brittle plastic parts. They arent the best for racing, but they are the perfect receipe for bashing.


On another note, can an XXX-NT accept a slide valve carb? Will i need extra parts?

Yes, you can use a slide carb. I am using a slide carb CV-R in mine. If you have already cut the servo arm for use with a rotary you will need to get a new servo arm. You put the servo in the other way and then cut the center arm of the servo arm and adjust the linkages. Now it's set for slide carb. It says how to in the manual as well.

[gometro333]

I'm looking to buy a new truck, is the XXX-NT worth it?

[Corey_25]

If i want to swap out the mach .15....what would be a fast reliable engine...it dosnt have to be roar legal or anything can be a .12 or .15 i would like a .15 but i'll settle for a .12 if there arent alot oh high performance .15's

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by gometro333
I'm looking to buy a new truck, is the XXX-NT worth it?

ROFL! hehe, Yes it is. The GT and the XXXN-T are the best race trucks out there. Ive had both and by far prefer the XXXN-T.

[gometro333]

So should I go for the Sport? I race and bash.

[Got Speed]

Depends on how much money you are looking to spend.

The sport is great but if you plan on upgrading to an FM radio and a better engine then it's kind of useless.

Personally I went with the Adam Drake Edition and put a Slide valve CV-R in it and used my XR-3 radio.

With whichever of the three XXXN-Ts you go with you won't regret it.

Here are the differences:

Sport:

XR2 radio(best radio to come with a RTR truck, but it is still AM)
Mach .15 engine(ok performance, but being a sport engine it will wear more quickly than others)
Great well built truck, the same race-proven design as all other XXXN-T trucks.
Plastic parts(arms, towers, bulkheads, ect)

Standard version:

No radio or engine(so you can pick the engine and radio that most suits your needs)
All parts that were the softer plastic on the sport are now stiffzel. Which is a higher strength yet still somewhat flexible.

ADE:

No engine or radio like the standard version.
All parts that would have been plastic or stiffzel on the other two models are graphite.
Nearly all aluminum is hard anodized.
Hard anodized, threaded bodied, ti. nitrate shock shaft shocks.

They are all great trucks. Choose the one that will best suit you. :) :cool: Have fun!:D

[morfracerX]

thought i might lightin things up with a few pics of my 3xnt and my brothers GT

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid37/p99397b3107c747901861a4aad639ddfb/fd1d23cd.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid37/p4ee8dcd70621d324863557f9fc5533da/fd1d23d3.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid37/p2c66b1721632c98caf3b9d9703411994/fd1d23d4.jpg


http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid37/p7a04d845bb7b560369fac559a9828a52/fd1d23d2.jpg

That last truck in the line with the funny looking body is my old gt, i gave it to my younger brother but have it back now. anyone want a FT GT RTR? :D

[ryanbakewell52]

Hi its not actually ryan its his best mate Aaron. Just wondering you all seem to know what youre talkin about so i thought id ask you about a few problems we and another frweind have been habving with our nt's. We all bought them in the summer this year and were looking forward to some serious fun with them and maybe to start racing but we've had nothing but problems. I hve hand 3 nitro's before and ive lso got a ep tc3 which i race so i am not a novice but just cant stop having problems. First problem: after a couple of runs after break inm the engine ceased. When i took it apart for examination the bushing had shattered and flew up into the cylinder (nice hey?) i sent it back and they said it was running TOO RICH! have you ever heard of that no me neither or my local model shops. they fixed it for free anyway so i wasnt too bothered. Then i set about using it again and my god is the diff crap. We have ALL had a diff gear strip and at least two spur gears. We have also had the diff nut strip twice despite running the diff tight as per the manual and modelshop.
You can imaging im getting a bit sick of it now and it turns out that in 3 months or so ive only ever used in for about 1 hour!

Whats wrong with the diff what have i got to do to stop wrecking it. the slipper just seems to do nothing no matter where it is and the brake is non existant. One thing i can say is that since the engine was fixed it starts like a dream but only after i modified the fuel tank to stop it spitting fuel all over my trousers did anyone else have any of these problems?

In case you cant remeber them after al my babbling here they are in order of annoyance:

1. fuel spits from the pipe (fixed by cutting the pressure niple short inside the tank)

2.engine ceased (a factory fault but still annoying)

3.diff gear stripping

4. diff bolt stripping

5. expensive parts?

thanks to listening to my moan im sure you love em and so do i...when they work!!!!

:confused:

[KevanB]

Is the Os .12 cvx be a good choice for a reliable, good performing engine? I am on a budget and i cant aford a .12 cvrx yet.... Will it be fast enough, and have enough torque for racing and bashing?

[Tstalion79]

Dude, the reason that fuel is spitting from your pipe is that you are running WAY too rich. My guess is that your top end might be fine, but your bottom end is probably half a turn too rich. Give it a try and let us know how it went.

[ryanbakewell52]

No the engine runs fine its tuned perfectley it just spitts!!!! This is when we are trying to start it.


P.S. it does it with all 3 of our 'nt's' so it must