View Full Version : OFNA 1/8 Buggys v1.0
bond2000
07-11-2001, 12:37 AM
itjust goes i think that the carb maybe claged and would a os slide carb for the RG work good for mine,because i have one laying aroun here some where and will the worlds two body fit my worlds 1? :)
[ 07-10-2001: Message edited by: bond2000 ]
Lost Racer
07-11-2001, 11:31 AM
the low needle. I did a little explanation on that in the last post because normally the brass screw is for mid-range tuning. BUT thats on a 4 needle carb.
1. Idle Screw
2. Low end
3. High end
4. Mid range
the Ofna only has the first 3. SO yoeah without confusing you more ;) The lowend. :D
Lost Racer
07-11-2001, 01:14 PM
The Picco comp, I've run maybe 10 tanks through, thats including break in. I've only leaned it a little bit, and the engine just flys! I'm waiting for a replacement spur so I can race this saturday.
bond2000- I'm not sure if the Worlds 2 body will fit the ultra..It may? Anyone know? The only thing I can see that may happen is to mod the front maybe where the shock tower is. The GTLX body will fit. Not very well, but it fits. Ife you get the Worlds 2 body, get the Euro Version. Better cooling for your engine. Part number 36830. The U.S. version is #36831. They look identical with the exception of the euro version rear behind the window comes down more than the US one. And I think It looks better. If I remember I'll take pics tonight. Of all three bodies. GTLX, W2 Euro, and W2 U.S.
NickBurns
07-11-2001, 01:23 PM
LostRacer,
How does it compair to the p4? Thats the only engine I have experince with. How much faster?
Thanks
Nick
Lost Racer
07-11-2001, 01:39 PM
Nick- The P4 is a very DURABLE engine. Great torque. BUT in NO WAY compares to the picco comp. This engine by far outperforms power wise the P4. As far as longevity goes..I haven't had it long enough to say yet. I do use Odonnel fuel in it and After run after every run to keep it clean. The P4 is a good backup engine. But go to the picco if you can. :D
[ 07-11-2001: Message edited by: Lost Racer ]
NickBurns
07-11-2001, 06:39 PM
Would you get a p8 engine for 100 dollars? How much faster do you think it is then the p4, and how do you think it compares to like a higher end engine. Thanks
Nick
Lost Racer
07-11-2001, 06:50 PM
for $100 dollars? Sure I'd get it. I was looking at that engine originally, and the guys at my LHS guided me to the picco. They said cooler running and better power. Much better motor quality wise. If $100 is what you're looking to spend and you have a P8 available to you at that price, I'd say do it.
NickBurns
07-11-2001, 07:42 PM
I bought this engine off ebay, the guy said it was an on-road engine but I've never seen an onroad version of the p8. Take a look, it looks exactly the same as the one on ofnas website but the head is a different color. It is pretty large don't you think? Thanks
http://photos.netclubs.com/live/photos/photocenter/b/k/4/0/401hiqnlqmbk59niel6l94smn0/force2.jpg
http://photos.netclubs.com/live/photos/photocenter/b/k/4/0/401hiqnlqmbk59niel6l94smn0/force3.jpg
Nick
very low budget racer
07-11-2001, 08:00 PM
I saw it in the pics of the HODR I think one of them show'd it with a pic and it looks like that one. Tell us how it runs, how much green did you dump on it too?
Lost Racer
07-11-2001, 08:07 PM
wow. The head looks like an onroad engine. Maybe its an older model. Try it out and tell us what you think. Pretty kool though.
NickBurns
07-11-2001, 08:15 PM
I spent 110 dollars on it. I've got all the peices to my next car besides the CAR :). You can get some awsome deals on ebay, the trick is to find really new auctions with no bids and then email the bidder and give him an offer. I bought this engine for 110, Ofna 1 peice pipe for 18 dollars and a lynx hitech radio for 120 dollars. All brand new. I think I'm going to order a Mugen XR next week. Later guys.
Nick
bond2000
07-11-2001, 10:07 PM
I was wondering if the O.S. slide carb for the RG would increase performance any on my p4? :)
NickBurns
07-12-2001, 12:59 AM
Hey LostRacer,
How is that picco comp working. I am going to order an engine in about a week and that one looks to be the winner so far. How much gas have you run through it? Will I notice a big difference in acceleration and top end speed from my old p4??
Does anyone know where I can get a starter box for cheap? I bid on one on ebay but it looks kind of cheesy. Later
Nick
very low budget racer
07-12-2001, 07:56 AM
I spoke with my LHS (aka OFNA USA) they carry all the OFNA MBX parts in stock, and they say they have sucsessfully modified a chassis with front kick up and they told me how, all I need is a piece of graphite to make a custom front brace. Also, can I cut my own AL parts if I had a drill press and some time? Ocean State Job Lot (sells cheap stuff, but nice tools) has a drill press for 40 bux with a max RPM of like 2k I think, and .5 hp, I can just drill alot of holes to cut out a piece and use my dremel to smooth it out.
Lost Racer
07-12-2001, 11:03 AM
That sounds like a bit of work just for some kickup? :eek: :eek: You can buy a worlds 2 chassis for $50. And that has the kick up. Its really not all that important. Just learn to drive the car and you'll be fine.
Lost Racer
07-12-2001, 11:34 AM
bond2000- pics of my 3 bodies. Don't laugh they have been raced extensively...
http://www.fototime.com/{89064F3E-769E-11D5-8B31-0090271CF861**/picture.JPG The GTLX Body
http://www.fototime.com/{89064F3D-769E-11D5-8B31-0090271CF861**/picture.JPG Worlds 2 U.S. Style
http://www.fototime.com/{89064F3C-769E-11D5-8B31-0090271CF861**/picture.JPG Worlds 2 Euro Style. I have pics of the differences also on my site...Rc Pics (http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/pictures?userid={90BAE7A9-29C4-43F0-84E1-68162BEB20B7**&tio=0)
bond2000
07-12-2001, 01:32 PM
LOST I was wondering who sells the euro vesion? thanks :)
Lost Racer
07-12-2001, 01:54 PM
Nitrohouse does. Give them a call. (http://www.nitrohouse.com) I think I posted the part number earlier. :D
Lost Racer
07-13-2001, 02:36 PM
Anyone racing this weekend..Not me I'm still waiting for my SPUR GEAR!!!!!!!! http://www.plauder-smilies.de/sad/nervous.gif http://www.plauder-smilies.de/sad/nixweiss.gif
[ 07-13-2001: Message edited by: Lost Racer ]
[ 07-13-2001: Message edited by: Lost Racer ]
morfeeis
07-14-2001, 05:59 PM
hey lost how did you strip out a metel gear??
i have decided that i am going to start all over the way it looks now i will have to pay $500 plus to get my ofna running so i am going to put it up on e-bay and just buy a rtr kit so see u soon :D :D :D
BadReligion
07-14-2001, 08:40 PM
Does OFNA still make the Worlds 2? Its not on their updated web site and there is no emial to them that I can find. Just wondering cause I'm still deciding between the Worlds 2 and R2. Thanks :D
Want MBX-4
07-15-2001, 08:37 AM
How come u guys like nitrohouse so much? Its a direct copy of ofna.com. Same backround and sells the same cars,engines,tools and starter boxes.
Ofna website (http://ofna.com)
compare the sites...
nitro house website (http://nitrohouse.com) :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:
morfeeis
07-15-2001, 06:48 PM
well that just meant that they know ofna cars best :D
Want MBX-4
07-15-2001, 07:55 PM
Ha, Ha. It just shows Nitrohouse cant make a website.
machinehead
07-16-2001, 02:35 AM
How are all of you guys doing against the competition? It seems the general impression is that these are inferior to the Mugen and Kyosho but I don't think that's the case. What is so good about them? The Mugen seems to have a little beefier supports but other than that they all look about the same to me, just the Ofna is cheaper.
Dirty Pirate
07-16-2001, 03:02 AM
lost racer- gimme yer name dude, and ill check on that thing at work tomorrow. or just give us a call. im sure its either not in stock. or there was a mixup
-btw- this is mbx4rr racer- Want a Coke :) :p ;) :p :o
very low budget racer
07-16-2001, 01:31 PM
How much would ytou sell your buggy and the p4 engien for? I was gonna be getting the MBx R-2 and a p4 soon anyway.
Lost Racer
07-16-2001, 02:16 PM
VLBR- Gimme about a week to finish assessing my issues, and I'll let you know. I still have some minor parts to replace. :(
BTW- My P4 is no longer pullstart.
[ 07-16-2001: Message edited by: Lost Racer ]
bond2000
07-16-2001, 02:25 PM
I was wondering if any one know where i could get the rims for my ofna that look like the proline wabash rims for touring cars? Thanks
Lost Racer
07-16-2001, 02:36 PM
I think Mugen makes them. Don't know a part number though..sorry.
BadReligion
07-16-2001, 03:06 PM
Thanks Lost Racer :D
Lost Racer
07-16-2001, 03:07 PM
No Problem BR. :D
TeamCarnage
07-16-2001, 09:51 PM
A while back I was saying my P4 had 4 gals. thru it... I almost made it to 6. I was getting spanked pretty good by a pair of RBs and a comp O1. I needed a little extra punch over a pair of doubles I was having to single, so I leaned it out just a little, you know the rest of the story :( For my first 1/8th scale buggy I was happy with the P4. I ordered an OS RG. This is one of the engines allowed in the RTR class that I run in at my nearest track. I'd appreciate feedback from anybody whos had this engine
gedertr
07-16-2001, 11:24 PM
Hi everyone! I just ordered an Ultra GT LX RTR from Tower Hobbies. It's total only came to a little over $320! How can you beat that :cool: Too bad it's back ordered.
I was tired of bashing my RC10GT since I want to start racing it and my RC10T3 at a local track here in Western Michigan. Now I can go beat up on my friends T-maxx!
I already have the steel spur gear and Hitec 645MG servo so I should be able to have a lot of fun with my first 1/8 scalewith little downtime!
[ 07-17-2001: Message edited by: gedertr ]
Lost Racer
07-17-2001, 12:03 AM
Hmm where to begin on this one...How about here:
BadReligion- I Believe they still do. Check on the specs for it here. Ofna Cars (http://www.hongnor.com)
The Worlds II is the only KIT By Ofna right now. Everything else is RTR. The R2 would be a great deal too. Just remember to disassemble the car and put it back together using loctite. This will help you to learn the car and keep those bolts from falling out. :D ;)
Next:
Kris Valle- Ofna does NOT sell direct.
Nitrohouse is mail order mainly and carries just about anything you ask for, regardless of what the website shows. PLUS, They just happen toi be located in the same building as OFNA..hmm lets check addresses..Which you would think made it a bit easier to carry hard to get parts or order them. Oh yeah, On the websites comaprison, NITROHOUSE Had theirs that way first. Ofna just updated theirs like a month ago. So now it looks like that.
Machinehead- Against competition these buggies do very well. Like most belive its 90%driver 10%car. You're right when caomparing it to the mugen..It is beefier. But thats it! no other difference..well except that Kyosho and mughne both carry a few team drivers. When they have big races, 7 out of 10 cars are Mugen or Kyosho. The other 3 Ofna, Thunder Tiger, and newly added GS Racing. I'm not against Kyosho or Mugen. But at the same time I'm not spending 2x as much for parts for something that needs to be replaced.
Morfeeis- I think my engine moved, not positive, I really don't see any thing wrong that could've happened. But I am in the same boat as you as far as starting over.
I will be in about a week selling my rc equipment. Due to financial disaster, I will not be able to run anymnore http://www.plauder-smilies.de/confangry.gif at least for the time being.. I will however return here amongst Onfa'ers to help if possible.
Dirty Pirate- My Name..is Muerte! Nah just kidding. Its Tyrice. I'll give you a call. I'm gona need it to sell my buggy. Thanks.
Did I miss anyone?
NickBurns- I have that gasket. If you need it email me. My addy should be in my profile.
:D :D
[ 07-16-2001: Message edited by: Lost Racer ]
Lost Racer
07-17-2001, 11:34 AM
Hey TC- My friend has an RG and he loves it! Just don't be afraid to lean it a little. He's had his for about 6 months and has maybe leaned it once.then put it back to wahtever rich settings he had... :D SOrry to hear about your P4..That is a great engine.
gedertr-Looks like someones actually been reading the forum. :eek: Good start on the gtlx. Let us know how it goes.
Forgot, to add to my misfortune, my Ofna starterbox motor died on me yesterday. http://www.plauder-smilies.de/punch.gif http://www.plauder-smilies.de/peace.gif one more thing to subtract from my wallet..UGH!
[ 07-17-2001: Message edited by: Lost Racer ]
NickBurns
07-17-2001, 02:55 PM
I ordered a mugen XR today. All I need now is servos, this is what I have so far.
Engine: Ofna Delta 8 Port
Car: Mugen XR Works
Radio: Lynx Hitech 3d
Pipe: Ofna 1 peice
What do you guys suggest for servos. I don't really want to break the bank. I was thinking hitech 615 and 605 both MG's. Let me know
NickBurns
very low budget racer
07-17-2001, 03:51 PM
Hobbico CS-71bbmg, I have had 2, they are excellent servo's, or the Tower cs-71bbmg. Bet you'd never guess they are the same right? 132oz of torque @ .18 sec for normally 35 dollars. The fact that they are OEM servo's by futaba tells you they are of quality.
NUBlackshirts
07-17-2001, 06:48 PM
Hey, all. Been running my GT LX for a little while now and I love the performance. I just wondered if there is a replacement plate for the Force .21 to get rid of the pullstart? I looked at OFNA's site, but didn't see one listed (unless I just overlooked it). Anyone know? Thanks.
Lost Racer
07-17-2001, 07:03 PM
NUBlackshirts- Check out this thread...Backplate part number and URL (http://www.rccaraction.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=3&t=003779) Just remember to file down the little pin on the crankshaft. :D
NickBurns
07-17-2001, 07:46 PM
vlbr,
is this what your taking about. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXPB43&P=7
Is that enough speed for a steering servo.
Nick
very low budget racer
07-17-2001, 08:10 PM
I would think so, but if you think its slow @ 6v then get a longer servo arm, it has plenty of torque, more than enough for my old NQ on hard packed dirt with spiked tires.
NickBurns
07-17-2001, 08:47 PM
I guess I should state the question again, is it enough speed to race with and not have problems. I would spend the extra money on a faster servo, but I don't want to blow 50 bucks for a tenth of a second and not even notice a differece. Thanks
Nick
NickBurns
07-17-2001, 08:51 PM
Hey guys check this out. This would be pretty cool for just playing around.
http://www.kbkids.com/genProduct.html?WebID=00f4869f172800b4899f172800cd 749f1728001c719f1728&ctid=17
gedertr
07-17-2001, 11:35 PM
Nick...looks cool but expensive. If you want a jump for your RC car buy some wood and build one...it would be cheaper.
Hey, if Iever actually get my gt lx from Tower Hobbies What sort of prep work should I do??? I know enough to loctite the screws that thread into metal and double check the servo configuration etc., but what about the differentials? I've read about greasing and using silicone oil 3000 to 10000 wt. What should I use on the GT LX???
BadReligion
07-18-2001, 01:11 AM
I've got another question for you guys if you dont mind. With the worlds 2 do I also need to get some shock and/or diff oil? Or does it come with some. Is the worlds 2 hard to build? It would be my first 1/8th scale but I've built a Losi NXT, and a bunch of other Losi electrics so I know my way around a car pretty well. Thanks a lot! :p
machinehead
07-18-2001, 02:41 AM
I just bought mine about a month ago. It was not hard to build but the instuctions are terrible. Mine came with shock oil but only grease for the diffs, so you will need diff oil.
Scriber
07-18-2001, 10:31 AM
I ordered mine from tower this past friday...for $315!!! Too bad its back ordered.
Is Diff oil the same as Shock Oil? The Silicone oil from Ofna costs 9 bux!!! Is the shock oils from trinity the same thing?
windellmc
07-18-2001, 01:07 PM
I am looking to get into 1/8 scale without spending much to start. Is the GT LX at all competitive with the Mugen and Kyosho? If not how far behind is it? Would it be considered competitive for local racing? I am debating between a new GT LX and a used EB-4 or MP-6 and want to know how much I am giving up by going with the Ofna.
When I bought my MP, NitroHouse told me that they did OFNA's web site.
NickBurns
07-18-2001, 05:11 PM
I would get the used Mp-6 if it was in good condition. Its not better then the Worlds II, but its beter then the RTR ofnas.
Nick
NickBurns
07-18-2001, 08:20 PM
Hey LostRacer,
I got that ofna p8 engine today, it looks pretty cool. I wish my car was here so I could try it. It didn't come with that rubber gasket to connect the pipe. Do you still have that one around? I would pay you for shipping or whatever you needed. I also got the lynx3d radio today, not as cool as I though it would be, but its nice. I ordered a nice starter box and some servos today at tower. The thing that ***** is that my boss told me today that I have to go on a buisness trip to chicago for 3 weeks and i'm leaving sunday. So much for getting my car together. Later
Nick
machinehead
07-19-2001, 12:43 AM
I just put on some Excel tires today and man what a difference! The pin tires that came with my worlds II have no traction compared to these. What is everybody else using?
nitrocam3
07-19-2001, 01:01 AM
Hi, everyone and I can now finally talk 1/8th scale talk because, I just got a ofna ultra Gt pro kit that is used from a trade and I have one question, the kid put a .21 GS Kyosho motor in it with a pull start and well the pullstart is a peice of crap!!,can I just leave it off and let the shaft stick out there and just use my bump starter on it or should I leave it on, what do you think thanks for any info and I hope to post some pics.One last thing, what do you think about the 1/8th O.S.4-stroker motor I was thinking about getting one just for fun or maybe try to race it, Parts for these ofnas are also really hard to get, thanks again.nitrocam3 :D
NUBlackshirts
07-19-2001, 11:41 AM
THANKS LOST RACER! I found the back plate from that link and ordered it today. Once again you guys have been a great source of info. :)
Nitrocam3.... you will probably need to replace the pull start with a back plate. I am in the process of doing this with my P4.
gedertr
07-19-2001, 11:49 AM
Hey everyone! My GT LX was just shipped from tower yesterday! I should be getting it in a couple of days.
Can I and should I put silicon fluid in the diffs before I run??? What weights are recommended if I can??? :confused:
Lost Racer
07-19-2001, 01:38 PM
10beers- I did some looking around, but couldn't really find anything to help you out on stiffening the chassi. Maybe one of our GT LX vets out there has a mod or something they've done to to help stiffen their chassi..ANyone? :D I'm stumped here.
NickBurns
07-19-2001, 03:35 PM
I would think the GTLX/MBX would be just as good as any other buggy on the stiffness. You don't see any other buggies with an aluminum upper deck. Wouldn't this be better then just those rod stiffeners you see on other buggies. (Worlds II, Mugen,Kyosho). Are you sure its a chasis flex problem and not something else. Later
Nick
Lost Racer
07-19-2001, 04:18 PM
10beers- You said it snaps your clutch? care to clarify? Are the cluthc springs snapping? Or is your clutchbell being stripped? Whats up?
BadReligion
07-19-2001, 04:44 PM
Unfortunatly I dont have the $$$ to buy the car yet. But as soon as I do I will get the Worlds 2! I will be running an OS .21 RG non pull start. Adam Drake said he just got a new OFNA buggy called the 9.5 I dont know what it is but thats what he's running now instead of the W2.
very low budget racer
07-19-2001, 04:53 PM
I dont know about getting the MBX now, i figure the kit is $250, + $100 for the engine, +$40 servo's +$15battery box and +$20 new crystal for my radio, I am at over 400, with 450 I get a RTR TTR EB4, would the MBX be better?
Lost Racer
07-19-2001, 06:03 PM
VLBR- The MBX is RTR. The Worlds 2 is the only buggy KIT out by Ofna at this time. The R2 model comes ARR-almost ready to run. If thats what you were talking about. if thats the case, I'd start looking at what parts your LHS supports more. Do you already have your own radio and rx to go into it?
BadReligion- I heard something about the 9.5 a couple of months ago..But nothing really solid yet. Might want to find out when its hitting the retail market....
[ 07-19-2001: Message edited by: Lost Racer ]
very low budget racer
07-19-2001, 06:05 PM
My Track carries Mugen, my LHS carries OFNA parts, so I think I should be covered with the MBX R-2, but is the Eb4 a superior buggy to race? parts are cheap and I have always ordered parts for all my cars so I learn not to beat them up.
very low budget racer
07-19-2001, 06:11 PM
I think I might wait a while and get a MBX-RR or GS storm.
10beers
07-19-2001, 06:19 PM
WHATS UP IT;S ME AGAIN ABOUT THAT FLEX PROBLEM. THE CLUTCH NUT BROKE IN HALF THE BELL STRIPPED THE MAIN GEAR STRIPPED AND THE CLUTCH SHOES BURNED OFF. TRY PICKING UP A MUGEN OR A MP SERIES. AND TRY TO BEND IT IN HALF IT WILL FLEX JUST BIT. BUT DO THAT TO A LX/MBXFLEX MACHINE AND YA GET A TON. THE TRACK I RACE ON HAS HUGE JUMPS 20'TO 40'. IT BEATS ALL THE CARS ON IT MUGEN, KYOSHO, THUNDER TIGER, KRONO, HYPER 7? YA HYPER 7, I LIVE IN SOCAL. VERY CLOSE TO OFNA THEY DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO. I GUESS SOMBODY IS TRYING TO FIGURE OUT SOME KINDA BRACE FOR THEM BUT HAS'NT GOT TO IT YET. JUST TRYING TO FIND OUT IF SOMBODY ALL READY HAD A JUMP ON IT :D
Lost Racer
07-19-2001, 06:19 PM
Its not bad to order. I use it as a last resort. If I can pick it up at my LHS, then I'm good to go sooner. :D Its all personal preference. The EB4 I've heard is a great buggy. I've seen race just as well as the ofna's. They're both great buggy's. Write a list out of exactly what you'd need between the both of them to get running. And what you have and what you're willing to spend to get up and running. ANd make a decision from there. There is a board where the ytalk about the thunder tiger buggies also if you need more info..or maybe someone else here can give us some info...
BadReligion- I just got off the phone with Ace Hobbies..Kevin there says he doesn't see the 9.5 in the NEAR future. Personally I'd say xmas time. Oh and he said they'll send my spur tomorrow :mad: :D
10beers
07-19-2001, 06:21 PM
THE 9.5 KINA ***** IT'S STILL HONG NOR THE HYPER IS ALOT BETTER BUGGY JUST WAIT
Lost Racer
07-19-2001, 06:23 PM
HaoBao makes the hyper..A lot of people waiting for that one too. 10beers, do oyu know where i can get more info on the hyper?
very low budget racer
07-19-2001, 06:28 PM
www.twf8.ws (http://www.twf8.ws)
[ 07-19-2001: Message edited by: very low budget racer ]
10beers
07-19-2001, 06:28 PM
THERE'S ONLY TO SITES THAT I'VE FOUND TWF 1'8 BUGGY SITE AND THE HO BAO SITE. THE OFNA GUY'S ARE KEEPING IT HUSH HUSH, TILL IT GETS HERE. I'VE HOPEFULLY HAVE DIBS ON ONE. THINKS IT'S GONA BE LAT AUG.
10beers
07-19-2001, 06:32 PM
WHAT MOTORS YA'ALL RUNNUN
10beers
07-19-2001, 06:33 PM
WHAT MOTORS YA'ALL RUNNUN
Lost Racer
07-19-2001, 06:36 PM
Ofna\Picco Competition\ P4 for backup. :D
10beers
07-19-2001, 06:36 PM
HOW DO I GET RID OF THE NEW MEMBER CRAP
Lost Racer
07-19-2001, 06:43 PM
Certain amount of posts you have to hit..maybe?? or time frame? unsure. That Hyper 7 looks good.
BadReligion
07-19-2001, 06:52 PM
Well late Aug. - Xmas is fine with me. Its gunna be till the end of the year till I have enough $$$ to get one :rolleyes: Anyone know the price range will be for the Hyper 7 or 9.5? :confused:
BadReligion
07-19-2001, 06:57 PM
10beers- my went away after 30 posts
Ive got 1 more question. Does ofna distribute HONG-NOR or are they 2 toatally different companies? And whats Ho-Bao or whatever? Thanks :D
very low budget racer
07-19-2001, 07:01 PM
OFNA Distributes hong-nor and hobao.
Lost Racer
07-19-2001, 07:05 PM
Ofna is a Distributor for Hong Nor and HaoBao. I think they split up production of particular lines between the 2. HaoBao at one point produced a 1/10 scale nitro buggy. I don't remember who released it here though. I think it was called Pirate10. Don't quote me on that. :D
10beers
07-19-2001, 07:05 PM
THEY DISTRIBUTE FOR BOTH OF THEM.
I HEARD 400 OR SOMTHING FOR STOCK AND 500 SOMTHING FOR THE RACE VERSION
10beers
07-19-2001, 07:12 PM
OUTAHERE LATE! GONE SURFEN
TeamCarnage
07-19-2001, 10:40 PM
The OS RG is broke in and ready for the track! BIG difference between the P4 and this engine in terms of power.I'll let you guys know after Sun. race.Looking forward to no flame outs.
10Beers- I totally solved all chassis flex with a 5/32 alum. rod. It ties the rear and center diffs together and eliminates the stock brace. Cheap and effective!
NickB.. I live S.E. of Chicago in Indiana. Bring your gear and race. Every Sun at Duneland Hobby. Open practice during business hours. Hope you have time. This track is geared toward 1/8th scale buggies.
Lost Racer
07-20-2001, 12:04 AM
NickBurns-I still have it sitting in my tool box. Just email me your info and I'll send it. Don't worry about the shipping.
BadReligion-Congrats on your new purchase. What engine are you going to run? Like machinehead said, the instrucitons are horrible. Make sure you go over the pictures VERY well. So you don't miss anything. I don't know about MH, but I had a few screws left over that didn't seem to go anywhere... :D. Nothing really else. MH got it all.
Scriber- I haven't oticed much of difference in the shock oil my elf, just remember to gauge the viscosity(thickness).
windellmc- I'm a big believer in saying its mainly the driver and some of the car as far as competativeness(--is that a word? :confused: goes. I have a friend that races the Ofna HODR buggy and is keeping up really well with the Kyosho and Mugens. As old as that buggy is, that should give you an idea of what I mean. If you can set it up and have good control, you'll do well with just about any car you run out there. :D :D
Machinehead- I have a set of excels and Proline Dirty harry's. It really depends on the track. The pin tires are going to be better in some situations for control. Where as the excel tires will give you maximum grip on a wet or muddy track. Sometimes too much traction :eek: But it sounds like the excels work well where you race. Thats good. I keep mine on standby incase they wet the track down right before my heat.
nitrocam3- You can use a bumpstart on that motor if you want. But realize that leaving the pullstart off is going to get your buggy extra oily from the backplate. Oil seeps through from the engine. Meaning a dirtier buggy.
NUBlackshirts- Very cool. I hope the conversion goes well.
gedertr-Thats a good question gedertr. We had a few variations on here. In the middle of page 5, vetrider has a good setup. Mine is upthere as well. Nice little discussion on them. ;)
UPDATE The boss(my wife)says I don't have to sell my RC stuff!! WOO HOO! Fixed my starter box. Motor wasn't bad, connection from pressing it wasn't making the connection. Still waiting for spur... :(
gedertr
07-20-2001, 12:20 AM
TeamCarnage, where in Indiana? I live in Muskegon MI, but I have family in St. Joseph about 30 minutes north of the Indiana boarder. How long do you think it would take to get there from the boarder?
10beers
07-20-2001, 12:48 AM
HOW CAN YOU STIFFEN THE FRAME ON MBX. WHEN I HIT A BIG DOUBLE AND COME UP SHORT THE THING BENDS AND SNAPS THE CLUTCH. ANG BODY WITH GOOD IDEAS :eek:
gedertr
07-20-2001, 07:36 AM
Are the Kyosho Silicone transmission oils rated the same as the Ofna Silicone oils??? I am guessing that they will be different since there is no standardization for the weighting. If they are different, which brand were you all refering to back on page 5??
Lost Racer
07-20-2001, 11:15 AM
I've used Mugen and Ofna. I don't think the brand will make much difference. Although I heard shock oils there maybe a little.. But as far as diff oil goes you should be ok. Between the Mugen and Ofna, they've both worked the same for me.
TeamCarnage
07-20-2001, 11:49 AM
gedertr- Duneland Hobbies & Raceway is located in Hobart[URL=www.dunelandhobbies.com]Coming down 94 from the Mich border should be appx.35-40 mins.It would be worth the ride. The track on the web site has been changed. Let me know if you need more details. Nick
10beers
07-20-2001, 01:28 PM
TEAMCARNAGE HOW DID YA DO THAT BRACE WITH THE ALUM. TUBE. DDO YOU HAVE ANY PICS. :confused:
Scriber
07-20-2001, 07:11 PM
LostRacer: You are lucky that u have a good LHS. For the past couple of weeks i've been making trips to several hobby shops within a 50 mile radius and all of them **** ! 1st they never stock any parts...they just say to me "I can order u any part!" Big Friggin deal...i know how to pick up a phone too. 2nd they don't know crap about what they are talkin about. 1 LHS stared at me until i left. How come these ppl act so elitist?
TeamCarnage
07-20-2001, 11:21 PM
10Beers- remove the rear upper chassis brace. Get a SOLID piece of 5/32" alum rod.You'll use two holes used to mount the original brace. Measure and cut to length.I milled (ground)the two ends flat to sit on the 2 diffs. Drill appropiate size holes and install. Your chassis will flex no more. Big Dog racers prefer a small amount of flex to make the car more forgiving, I'm not in that caliber and figured to stiff is better than having it to limber.(insert punch line here)
Sorry I have no pix for you, I'm lucky to get on line ;)
TeamCarnage
07-20-2001, 11:25 PM
Scriber- It sounds like you need to move...OR open your own hobby shop!! :D
machinehead
07-21-2001, 03:00 AM
Just got back from the races... I am getting better, I will be killing Kyoshos and Mugens soon... Unfortunately I am also jinxed. My car loves to run great up until race time, then everything that can go wrong does.... errrr!
morfeeis
07-21-2001, 07:30 PM
well i sold the ofna and am noiw looking for a ready to run (lol) time i know a bit more then last time tho i already have one that i like i just hope the guy does not sell it before i get paid
it has the rg in it the right servo's and a good rx
anyone have the xr3 out there cause i got one off e-bay not to long ago but no paper work so i have no clue what the **** to do
thax
gedertr
07-21-2001, 10:38 PM
Hey out there all you ofna 1/8th buggy experts! I got my GT LX on Friday from Tower! After going through the instructions and giving the buggy a once over I set up the steering and throttle servos and linkages. Nothing too scary...just like 1/10th scale only a little bigger. I decided to wait on putting in the steel spur gear and hitec 645MG servo until after I broke in the engine.
I ran two tanks through at idle. Very boring, but I have had great success doing this on all the other engines I've worked on. Then I ran two tanks at very low speed in my driveway at 1/4 turn in from factory setting. I ran out of time so I will break it in the rest of the way tomorrow.
Questions: What is the weight of Shock oil that comes in the RTR??? I had the nut that holds the shock piston to the shock shaft inside the shock body come off the left rear shock and had to lose all the fluid to fix it (with lotite!). I will repeat with the other three tomorrow, but all I have is associated 30 wt and the hobby shop here is closed on Sundays. How will this work??? :confused:
TeamCarnage
07-22-2001, 08:10 AM
gedertr- No idea what the stock oil is. If one of your pistons got off, I'd rebuild all the shocks. I'm running Kyosho pistons(1.3-1.4 fr,rr.)with 35 wt. oil.I changed to Mugen springs too. (Black). This setup works well at my home track. When you coming down to race? Heavy rain made practice a wash last night. Looking forward to letting the RG rip today!What other cars do you have? Ive got a FTGT, my son races a hopped up TMaxx.He beats me often :rolleyes: Gotta go race! Later, Nick
morfeeis
07-22-2001, 05:24 PM
i'm back in the game guys and better then ever i picked this off of e-bay last nite
http://abacus.sj.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/28d40cae7cf01f20f34e30b86/i-1_B_L.JPG
http://abacus.sj.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/28d40cae7cf01f20f34e30b86/i-2_B_L.JPG
http://abacus.sj.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/28d40cae7cf01f20f34e30b86/i-3_B_L.JPG
anyone ever had the traxxas Torq .21
gedertr
07-23-2001, 12:48 AM
TeamCarnage: I don't think I'll be making it this year, but I'll try. My wife is having some tests done and may require surgery and I've got to help her and my 7 1/2 month old son. Not trying to bring you down or anything but that's life.
My first RC was a tub chassis team RC10GT I bought it in the fall of 97. I have made a lot of upgrades since this truck is truly my pride and joy. I will post pics in the GT forum as soon as I get it back together. Since I bought my GT I have inspired 7 of my friends and family to buy Nitro RC for a total of 12 rc cars...all different brands and models. I have pretty much helped break in, tune, and fix all of them.
On the electric side I am on my second RC10T3. I had to sell the first one. My new one is pretty much stock with novak electronics a p2k and Radio Shack batteries...yes...Radio shack.
Finished breaking in my GT LX today, for the most part anyway. I still need to tune it for performance. No further problems. Now I plan on doing a total tear down to loctite everything before getting more demanding.
I'll stop...I've already bored all of you I'm sure.
Lost Racer
07-23-2001, 02:51 PM
Nice Worlds 2 Morfeeis!
gedertr- Good job on the GTLX. I hope you have great fun with it. Good luck to your wife.
I'll be hanging up my radio for awhile. My wife is starting to complain about my racing. I don't understand women. She says I don't haveto sell it. But now she says I can't race it. I'm going to start rebuilding. Buying parts that are needed and fixing whatever's been put off. Simce I won't be racing. I can't break anything in the meantime. which means more money for spare parts. :D My friend and I are picking up a couple RC10GTs this week. :D can't wait to get started on that. I'll probably end up spending more money not racing than I would racing. :rolleyes: I'm praying my spur gear comes in today. Its been a long weekend. Ok. I'm done rambling.
[ 07-23-2001: Message edited by: Lost Racer ]
vetrider
07-23-2001, 06:04 PM
Again, Morfeeis! GREAT Car dude!!! :D :D :D
TeamCarnage
07-23-2001, 09:32 PM
gedertr-Hope all goes well with your wife.Family always comes 1st around here. I'm just glad my sons want to race as much as I
do :)I feel obligated to take them!
I raced the MBX after breaking in the OS RG the rest of the way. It was 92, with the humidity about the same. I leaned it out till it was running 200 and it made plenty of power. I finished 2nd. but more importantly, no flameouts.I LOVE OS engines. Later, Nick
Scriber
07-23-2001, 10:23 PM
I just got my gtlx today...it's gonna be a while b4 i get to run it. I swapped out the sucky radio system today and also a better steering servo. I still trying to get the diff oil but my LHS doesn't stock anything. It looks like a PITA to take the diff units out and apart though...sigh. I think i want some stiffer springs also.
How do i get the CA off of tires...i tried boiling it for 5 minutes but it didn't budge.
gedertr
07-23-2001, 10:50 PM
Hey guys, thanks for the kind words. It is appreciated.
It's been hot and humid here also. I use the MIP temp gage II and The max temp I hit on my 7th tank was around 230. And this was without making any changes to the factory set needle settings. Can't wait for the humidity and temps to decrease so I can tune the engine properly. Been working on rebuilding my RC10GT. There is a track about 25 miles south of here that races nitro on an oval and electrics on the main track. It's mostly for fun yet still competitive. I've only visited it once and now I want to take my GT and T3 there to race...just haven't found the time. I will use my Ofna primarily for a "fun" buggy for the construction sites.
Lost Racer
07-24-2001, 11:57 AM
gedertr- Have you tuned your mip gauge yet, to get an accurate reading? Put the heat element in a pot of water until it boils. I believe they said boiling point was 212F, then read what your temp gauge says, and plus or minus from that to get a more accurate reading.
Congrats on the second place finish TeamCarnage.
Scriber-Why do you want to take the tires off the rims? are they the offraod type? if so keep them and get a new set. It would make it easier for you just to have to change rims going from onroad to offroad. That is if you can afford it. :D I know I couldn't for a while. Good luck though. And have fun.
Lost Racer
07-24-2001, 02:07 PM
I know I know, the positioning of the moon. The altitude of the stars. If our moms are sleeping on their leftsides that evening :DLOL!! I understand.I forgot about the elevation thing. Mine is off by 30 when its under 200F. But above its off between 8 and 10. I test it against my friends temp gun. But other than that. It works great. Just make sure you have it secured, or else it will end up like my first one. I brought my buggy in to check the temp. And it was gone. Ripped off on the track somwhere. nowhere to be found :(my poor mip gauge.
Scriber
07-24-2001, 05:57 PM
I know i posted this in Nitro, but i'm desperate for some feedback...Today i ran mah gtlx for the 1st time. I ran 2 tanks at idle off ground w/cool down in between. Then i putted around for tank 3 at 5-10mph. During this time i had a problem...every time i gave it a 2 sec jab of gas it would die. Is this cuz the low speed is rich? Anyway...I set the low speed at around 3 turns clockwise which is sorta flush w/the fitting. This was better...although if i gased it for more than 2-3 secs it would die...what is the cause of this? Then for some reason i lost control...I think my radio is glitching. I have an old magnum JR. Should i get a PCM? Which 1 is cheap? Anyway, i lost control and hit a curb at around 15-20mph...it scratched up the bumper pretty good and the engine got knocked loose. I think the engine being loose was the reason for the high pitched whine when i grabbed it and tried to shut it off...i didn't have a rag and i dunno how to jam mah foot into the flywheel. I hope i didn't break the engine. I checked the plug and the element is still shiny except for a little gray in 1 part. Did I mess up mah engine?
:confused: :confused: :confused:
Lost Racer
07-24-2001, 07:02 PM
The whine was probably the mesh. Make sure your mesh is good between your spur and clutchbell. You should be able roll a piece of paper between them tightly without breaking the paper to ensure a proper mesh. As far as you'e radio goes, make sure you have fresh batteries. PCM radios are less prone to glitching. But they are not a necessity. An FM radio should just be just fine.
outch!!!
well it was rich so it wasn't probaibly too hot...
the plug wasn't munched that is good...
well at worst the connecting rod is broke & the piston & sleve is scored...
I dout that It usually trashes the plug.
if the con. rod is good then keep her going...
if you did damage it you may as well get your $$ worth if it still runs
I assume the engine still turns?
Lost Racer
07-24-2001, 07:22 PM
Anyone else running Torsens? Just a few questions for you? such as, what weight oil are you running in your rear diffs? and where do you get the oil the relube them(Torsen Diffs)? Or even a part number?
[ 07-24-2001: Message edited by: Lost Racer ]
morfeeis
07-24-2001, 08:01 PM
thanks guys but what about the traxxas Torq .21 anyone know anything about it
Lost Racer
07-24-2001, 08:11 PM
haven't heard anything spectacular on it..Are you getting a good deal on it?
Conrad
07-24-2001, 10:00 PM
I bought a very used gt lx with a cracked wing. I also read the the wing with the MBX is weak. Is ther a wing the can handle flips and general bashing better than the stock ofna wing?
morfeeis
07-24-2001, 10:52 PM
the alum wing should stand up to a good beating forgot who makes them makes them
lost i got it with the w2 so no one knows anything about them thata's ok i will tell you next weekend
gedertr
07-25-2001, 12:18 AM
I haven't checked my temp gauge against the boiling point of water yet (there are some inaccuracies in that also). It is a good idea though and I'll try it tonight. If it's off a couple of degrees it's not a big deal, but if it's off 10 or more degrees it will be helpful. The boiling point of water should be 212 degrees F. It may not be though. It is dependant on the elevation you are at, what pressure the atmosphere is at, what minerals and salts are in the water etc. However, unless you are at an extremely high altitude it shouldn't vary too much from that 212. :cool:
Volumex
07-25-2001, 12:29 AM
Hi, just got a used MBX.
Is there a past issue of RCCarAction that had a complete test of this car?
Which issue was?
Thanks in advance.
Lost Racer
07-25-2001, 11:21 AM
Conrad-You can use another brand. I'm Using Thunder Tiger wings. And they seem to be holding up pretty well. But I don't think the wing will be your biggest problem. The mounts for them seem to be the weakest links so far that I've seen.
Volumex- Not sure on the issue..I'm gonna have to go diggin for it.
Scriber
07-25-2001, 06:34 PM
Good news guys...I think my car is OK! I repositioned my engine after it was knocked loose in the crash and replaced the radio system. Now I'm almost glitch free. I got it to run. Although it seemed a little hot. The Main needle was at 3.5 turns and the Low was at 1.75. My concern is whether the low was too lean...this was my 5th tank of fuel...after basically idling and dying 2 dozen times for the previous 4 tanks. 1.5 turns for the low was the only way i could get it to not consistently die when i revved the engine for more than 2 secs. What is the needle ranges for the Ofna P4. I'm waiting to run it again until i recieve my temp gauge and diff oil tomorrow.
Also some ppl say to set the low needle flush w/the sleeve...according to my calculations that would be about 3 turns out or more??? Also, i see smoke but its not as if it's engulfed in it...it's a steady stream about a foot wide when i go through a corner.
Just introducing myself here.
I registered here because of this thread. I was directed here from HPI's forums after doing a search for information about the Ultra GT.
I have a friend who is selling to me an OFNA Ultra GT without electronics. It comes with either the P4 or P6 (he's not sure because he's out of town), a steering upgrade kit, two sets of tires and wheels (one set brand new), a broken front bumper, broken rear wing, broken wing mount, and some spares for $175. I'm picking it up next week when he comes back into town.
He says that he's only ran it a few times and, since he did not know where to run it on dirt, it has never seen dirt!
Kevin at Ace-Hobbies says that the P6 had problems and that the P4 is a good engine with a weak connecting rod. I thought the P6 was a P4 with a different sleeve and head?
I'm planning on getting a 925MG or a torquier steering servo and a 605BB for throttle/brake. I'm going to have to use an AM radio with it until I can afford the 3PJS that I've had my eye on.
I'm not a complete newbie when it comes to nitro powered RC cars, being the owner of four nitro powered cars, but this will be my first buggy (I have a HPI touring car, HPI NMT 4WD truck, Nitro Mini that I built from scratch, and a Kyosho PureTen Alpha POS rally car).
Lost Racer
07-25-2001, 08:20 PM
Welcome to the board PCC. Is that POS really part of the name of that rally car ;). I've had the P6. I still have my P4. The P4 is a great motor. If you go back a couple pages there is some info on the success some people have had with it. The P6 is a strong motor as well. You'll be fine with either motor you'll receive. The P4 may have a pullstart, and the P6 has 2 extra ports with a different head. Thats the difference. P6 has a bit more umph. I haven't heard anythng about a weak conrod on the P4.
Please ask away on questions, or even do a search, alot of things have been asked through these last pages. Good servo choices as well. Congrats on your buggy.
[ 07-25-2001: Message edited by: Lost Racer ]
TeamCarnage
07-25-2001, 11:25 PM
PCC-WELCOME! You found a wealth of info here. I had a P4.I ran almost 5 gals of 20%Blu Ttr thru it and was very happy, but i was pulled thru the straights by a P6 and you could hear the diff.I put in an OS because of my 1/10th scale experience.Theirs a good core of guys here to ask ?. Good Racing Nick
gedertr
07-25-2001, 11:38 PM
Checked my MIP temp gage yesterday. It hit 202 degrees in boiling water. I checked the water temp with a meat thermometer and it read 200 so I think I'm pretty close.
Many of you have or are currently running P4's. About where did you have the needles set at its optimal power output. I have yet to do any fine tuning but I am thinking of doing it this weekend. I have run a half dozen or so tanks through all at the factory setting.
I also noticed when I was cleaning it that there seemed to be some fuel spinning off of the flywheel which I am afraid is coming from the outer engine bearing. Have any of you noticed this or had any problems?
machinehead
07-26-2001, 01:55 AM
I just ordered one of those 6 port Collari Piccos today from Ace.... can't wait to see how it does! Will keep you guys posted.
Dirty Pirate
07-26-2001, 02:36 AM
i work at ace lol :) i have the 10 port collari picco.. supa fast.. the 6port should be just the same. :)
Scriber
07-26-2001, 10:25 AM
Gedertr- I have that fuel around my flywheel also...I even had it spit at me once when i was starting it.
Dirty Pirate, how's it going? I was at Ace yesterday buying that OFNA pinion gear and asking a lot of questions about the OFNA buggies. Remember me?
Lost Racer, no, the 'POS' was not part of the name but should be! Kevin at Ace said that the connecting rod was a weak point of that engine, but, I suppose, it would be a weak point of any engine.
Yes, I read through all ten pages of this post before registering. Lots of good info. Can't really ask too many questions until I actually have the buggy in my grubby little hands, though.
So, is the P6 a P4 with different head and sleeve or am I just imagining it?
Lost Racer
07-26-2001, 02:46 PM
Thats right. Same case, not sure on the shaft. I'll have to check that out..But the sleeve is different. thats it.
Really?? All 10? :eek: :eek: :D :D Whew! Soak it up! A lot of good info to start with.
[ 07-26-2001: Message edited by: Lost Racer ]
NUBlackshirts
07-26-2001, 06:45 PM
Have any of you guys running the GT LX replaced the four bolts holding the motor mounts with ones that don't stick out from the bottom of the chassis? I just think it's a little strange that OFNA countersunk the entire chassis except for these 4 bolts. It kind of defeats the purpose, doesn't it?
Lost Racer
07-26-2001, 06:50 PM
I replaced them with the flat bolts that use hex drivers. Learned you don't have to tighten them much for them to work. I ended up having to cuts slots in 2 to get them out. I do have to admit. They work very well. And I may be getting some more tomorrow hopefully. :D Just don't tell my wife.
ofna_Kdog
07-26-2001, 07:28 PM
Hey guys,
It's been a while since I've read /posted on this discussion....soooo here's my re-introduction. I live in the S.F. area, between hobby world and Ace, but way too far from Antioch. I got an Ultra GT LX from Tower last year...before the MBX and R2 and 7.5 were out. It was my 5th Rc car, but first 1/8 scale. It came with a P4 (not a bad engine) but I sold it a few months ago and got a P8. I also replace the airtronics rival radio with a futaba 2PEKA fm radio this week. I've replace the axels with ofna CVA's, yet the uprgrades seem to bend as easily as the stock ones. I have kyosho rims/tires for off road and durtraxx street tires for goofing around. I just got a new body and a wing so my car looks like new! Oh yeah, the ofna carb that comes with the P8 is horrible! Mine broke 2 times. The first time it came broken in the box, and the second was a month later. I trashed it and got a picco 9mm type 5 carb (yes they fit). With the new carb...the P8 is a whole new engine. the carb produces more bottom and mid range power while still keeping the insane top end that the engine produces. The first gallon i ran through it was Odonnel 20%, but since hobby world stopped selling i switched to Trinity 20%...and now i'm going through glow plugs once a week! what the **** ?! I'll get you guys some pics soon. I think i need to rebuild my shocks...b/c i still have the stock pistons...and my diffs still have the stock grease in them...(RTR setup) If you guys have any OFNA related Q's...feel free to ask. I know their engines' pros/cons pretty well.
morfeeis
07-26-2001, 08:46 PM
i have a few what do i need to do to this w2 before i hit the street or should i say dirt
by the way all of u guys or welcome to come by the rccarboard site and say hi
Scriber
07-26-2001, 09:29 PM
I just tore down the entire car(GTLX) to loctite everything and fill the diffs up w/oil. I'm glad i controlled myself and waited to run the car cuz all the diffs had only a thin layer of grease on them. Additionally, I bought a Steel Spur Gear cuz someone says that it didn't come w/one but sure enough it does! I also got a MIP Temp gauge so at least i'll know whether my engine is running too hot.
gedertr
07-27-2001, 12:29 AM
scriber -
I am pretty sure that it is fuel leaking out through the main crank bearing seal. It may be a typical thing for this engine, but I am not sure. If this "leak" allows air into the crankcase however it could cause a lean condition even though the carb is adjusted rich. I hope to run some more fuel through it this weekend and I will keep an eye on it.
machinehead
07-27-2001, 01:42 AM
Hey Dirty Pirate. That's funny you work at Ace. I have been oredering from you guys since I bought my Worlds II. Funny, that Collari 6 port engine I bought from Ace for 209.00, and I was watching one on ebay at the same time, it just sold for 255.00! What a crack up! Suckers... Ace is the place.
How do you like your MP?
Lost Racer
07-27-2001, 09:57 AM
Hey Scriber,
They must have just startd doing that. Prior to now th GTLX's came with plastic ones. Its never bad to have spare parts though. :D I just got my spur yesterday!! Woo Hoo!! I'm racing this weekend!
ofna_Kdog
07-27-2001, 02:12 PM
Scriber + Lost,
My GTLX i got a year ago came with metal gears....weird. What do you guys think of putting in 10,000 wt in the center....5000 in the front...and 2000 in the back?
very low budget racer
07-27-2001, 03:39 PM
Any of you guys have a working p4 that you are willing to sell to an engineless soul? I would hate to have to wait for an engine before I can run my Storm.
machinehead
07-27-2001, 06:45 PM
kdog, I asked Ofna and they told me to start with 10,000 in the center, 7,000 in the front and 3,000 in the rear. I guess it really depends on what kind of track you are going to run on. This was recomended for a tight track with medium traction.
Dirty Pirate
07-28-2001, 12:00 AM
Lost Racer. u never came in today. i hade the pipe and everything. i saw u posted last night that u would be in. what happend bro?
Dirty Pirate
07-28-2001, 12:18 AM
im gonna try to get down to the track tomorrow.. hopfully. i kinda wanna race ya kno.. ill prolly race novice cuz my car has been totally reworked, and havnt ran it since...
Scriber
07-28-2001, 02:41 AM
Ok i ran mah car today guys and according to my on board temp gauge it was running at 300F! I shut it down when i hit 300. I dun understand...My main needle was @ 2.75 turns out and Low was @ 1.75turns. Isn't that still rich? Why am i runnning so hot? When i accelerate i can still see a stream of smoke coming out. I couldn't get it to keep running w/the low any higher than 1.75 turns. HEELP! :confused:
ofna_Kdog
07-28-2001, 05:41 AM
Scriber...I had a similar problem before. Here's how I fixed it...
1. Replace all your fuel tubing. (Leaky fuel tubing creates bad backpressure, and then your engine will be running lean from not getting enough fuel)
Test your engine...if it's still hot....
2. Replace the glow plug with a "cold" plug...if you're not sure what type of plug you are running...they you should definetely replace it.
3. IF all else fails, your carb might be dirty/clogged. You can try to clear it by blowing into the fuel tubing really hard or using a dust-off type product or air compressor. IF that doesn't work you can take off the carb and clean it out.
Hope this helps you...Kdog.
ofna_Kdog
07-28-2001, 05:48 AM
Hey guys here's some pics of my GT LX. these pictures were taken with the new body, but not the new wing. This week I rebuilt all the shocks, and all three diffs. I cant' wait to take it out on the track!!
http://www.angelfire.com/mi/mikem/images/kenny01.jpg</img>
http://www.angelfire.com/mi/mikem/images/kenny11.jpg</img>
http://www.angelfire.com/mi/mikem/images/kenny13.jpg</img>
http://www.angelfire.com/mi/mikem/images/kenny22.jpg</img>
http://www.angelfire.com/mi/mikem/images/kenny24.jpg</img>
http://www.angelfire.com/mi/mikem/images/kenny26.jpg</img>
ofna_Kdog
07-28-2001, 05:49 AM
Hey guys...sorry i forgot angelfire is stupid...i'll upload the pics on my ftp site and re-post.
Killer87
07-28-2001, 11:54 AM
In a few hours I'm going to buy a GT LX and I have never had a gas car before. :eek: I know nothing whatsoever about tuning, needles, carbs, or anything that has to do with gas. :confused: Can you guys please HELP!!!! :) :) :)
Scriber
07-28-2001, 07:45 PM
Hey guys...update on my overheating problem. I richened the main needle a half turn to 3.25. The low richened a .25 turn to 2 turns. It is now running consistently between 250-280 degrees depending on how i run it. Is this still hot? Should i go w/a colder plug? I'm using the 1 that came w/it. What is considered a colder plug? How about a O.S. A5? I just finished breaking it in so i think the fuel lines are ok.
gedertr
07-28-2001, 11:46 PM
killer87 - The first thing you need with nitro is PATIENCE. Without any experience it may be kind of frustrating. If you have the time you may want to spend the time and read through all of the posts here in this ofna 1/8 scale forum. Follow the instructions in the kit for starters and feel free to aske more questions here.
Scriber - I just ran my GT LX for the third time today. I started to lean things out and I got it running pretty good. It acts rich with a full tank and leans out as the tank empties. I hit a little over 250. I would not try to go too much higher than 280 if possible. I am not sure about the glow plug. I am also using the one supplied in the kit. I am also running Blue Thunder 20%. I really need to rebuild my shocks...this thing kicks the rear all over! I am going to go check my needle settings now...
gedertr
07-29-2001, 12:18 AM
Checked my needle settings:
High speed needle was close to 3 turns
Low speed needle didn't seem to stop so since I did not want to damage it I stopped! The "stop" points were not as easy to find as my .12 OS engines! Oh well.
gomezextreme
07-29-2001, 12:58 AM
Hey yall i am also new at the forum but here goes.I live in Canada yeah i know we only get 3-4 good months of nitro runnin!Kinda cool in the winter though,hard on parts.Anyway i'm the proud owner of new Ofna Blazer sst.Now i now what your going to say or at least the local R/C guys say "oh yeah isnt that the cheap one!"Well im sorry to tell you but upon inspection i found this is one well made r\c!!!This thing is awesome.It also came with alot of goodies.Tuned pipe,airfilter,full bearings,nice blue anodizing!Kickin set of rubber.What a backyard basher.Just waiten for my new Ofna/picco .21.I,ll let you know what the test results are as soon as my patiant's heart arrives.Ohh yeah man the Canadian dollar double bites!! :p
BadReligion
07-29-2001, 02:46 PM
Hello again everyone! Ive got yet another Q for you guys with worlds 2's. In RCCA review it said to remove a rear brake disc. Is that really neccesary? Im still trying to decide between the R2 and Worlds 2 :p
morfeeis
07-29-2001, 09:25 PM
With my w2 I am going to go with the mp set up till I learn more about driving. It is a safer way to go then trying to learn both the shocks setup and the driving style at the same time (IMO)
by the way 4 more days till my w2 should get here
morfeeis
07-29-2001, 09:26 PM
by the way k dog those or some killer pic
i will host them for you just give me sec
morfeeis
07-29-2001, 10:00 PM
http://www.fototime.com/{1C980205-649A-47A3-98BC-11AB57688222**/picture.JPG
http://www.fototime.com/{93D3F30E-FA41-470D-9A00-5C48029CB7A4**/picture.JPG
http://www.fototime.com/{5CDB2B85-AA3B-4EF8-B90A-B51AF53861B9**/picture.JPG
http://www.fototime.com/{2A5E9882-5E4C-42DC-BECD-ABAE64153A8B**/picture.JPG
http://www.fototime.com/{B6DB9131-B4CC-4487-804D-75E03A76A3F5**/picture.JPG
http://www.fototime.com/{6728572B-E049-41E3-BE35-7B30D3FF2D00**/picture.JPG
Scriber
07-30-2001, 12:29 AM
Getdertr: Whaddya mean the stop points? Aren't u supposed to turn it clockwise until it stops and then turn out?
gedertr
07-30-2001, 12:38 AM
Yeah! That is what I meant! sorry for the confusion, but my problem is that It never felt like the low needle wanted to stop! If you over tighten it the tip of teh needle can be damaged. This is my first: .21 engine, slide carb, non-OS engine. I need to check it out a little closer, but I'm currently preppng my RC10GT and T3 for a local race this weekend. My first time out this year...SWEEEEET!
ofna_Kdog
07-30-2001, 02:31 AM
Thanks morph~ I owe you one. Here's some stationary pics too.
http://voicesbelmont.webjump.com/P1000312.jpg</img>
http://voicesbelmont.webjump.com/P1000310.jpg</img>
http://voicesbelmont.webjump.com/P1000312.jpg</img>
http://voicesbelmont.webjump.com/P1000314.jpg</img>
http://voicesbelmont.webjump.com/P1000315.jpg</img>
ofna_Kdog
07-30-2001, 02:39 AM
Hey guys...hobby world ran out of odonnel for a while, so i had to buy some trinity...i've run MC-9 mccoy plugs in my engine since I got it, and now that i've switched gases i've been killing a plug every quart! The plugs still light up, but they make the engine stall all of a sudden, and replacing the plug with a new one seems to be the only solution. Is it the trinity fuel or is it me? I always keep the temp below 260 on my buggy.
Lost Racer
07-30-2001, 11:16 AM
When you change fule you need to rebreak in the engine for about a tank. And you WILL need to re-tune. You shouldn't be going through plugs like that.
DP- Sorry I didn't make it out friday. Both people that were suppose to give me rides flaked. I apologize. The Torsen spur that was sent doesn't fit. My spur is all one piece with the end cap. I'm going to try to get a ride today to bring them in. Thanks though.
Dirty Pirate
07-30-2001, 11:31 AM
ahhhh! its one thing after another lol! bummer
very low budget racer
07-30-2001, 03:35 PM
DUDES I REALLY NEED A .21 ENGINE VERY BADLY, IF YOU HAVE ONE THAT WORKS EMAIL ME ASAP I NEED IT SHIPPED TODAY OR TOMORROW, I HAVE MY BUGGY WAITING HERE WITH ALL EQUPIPENT EXCEPT AN ENGINE AND I CANT AFFORD A NEW ENGINE AT THIS POINT.
ofna_Kdog
07-30-2001, 06:32 PM
Lost Racer...I've run almost half of the gallon through and i've re-tuned my engine (i do that every race) yet the plugs keep on dying. They'll start the engine with no problem...but then they'll stall. The engine's compression is fine, I took it apart and examined it. DO you think it could be Mc-9 plugs can't take trinity fuel?
Lost Racer
07-30-2001, 07:46 PM
the plugs should be fine with that fuel..is that a warmer plug? I'm not sure on the McCoys. I usually run OS A3cold and A5warm plugs in my buggy. Have you tried a different brand of plug?
machinehead
07-30-2001, 11:21 PM
I just came from nitrohouse... it looks like Ofna is coming out with a replacement for the worlds II. Its called the Hyper 7, check it out, it looks pretty cool.
Dirty Pirate
07-31-2001, 12:03 AM
actually the 9.5 is a replacement for the worlds 2. the hyper 7 is just an addon to there line up of a buggies :)
machinehead
07-31-2001, 02:22 AM
Do you know when it will be available?
ofna_Kdog
07-31-2001, 08:46 PM
Ahhh....too many buggies in such a short period....
Let's take a trip down memory lane.....
Last summer: Ofna sold the Ultra GT LX and Ultra Worlds II
This year: MBX was replaced by MBX r2 in like...a month? Now a hyper 7? and a 9.5? What is ofna trying to do? I think it's be wiser for them to invest into marketing ONE buggy and stand behind it. Like Kyosho is to 7.5.
machinehead
07-31-2001, 09:10 PM
Yeah, its a little frustrating. I just bought my Worlds II like a month ago and now its already old.... :confused:
morfeeis
08-01-2001, 11:32 AM
my w2 will be here this week and there is already a new buggy o wo is me
hey what happen to my last post???
i think they should do like the rc10gt and just put out upgrade kits
ANYONE KNOW WHAT IS GOING TO BE SO NEW ON THESE 2 BUGGIES THEY HAD TO BRING OUT A WHOLE NEW KIT
morfeeis
08-01-2001, 08:41 PM
there is www.ofna.com (http://www.ofna.com) and let me find the otherone
10beers
08-02-2001, 12:16 AM
you guys gota get with the times, they just keep getting better. you know the computer thing. :rolleyes:
ofna_Kdog
08-02-2001, 12:37 AM
What do you guys think about converting a buggy to a truck? How much would it cost?
guff20
08-02-2001, 12:50 AM
Hey dudes!COOL BUGGIES! :cool:
BY the way, how big are your wheel hub carriers(in mm). Any help would be appreaciated! :p
p.s. does ofna have a website with technical info on thier buggies( like pdfs of blowup diagrams)
see ya! :)
Hey all... Love the .21 T,but was wondering who's got a 1/8th buggy....
Its between a Chrono with a .21 Picco....
OR an OFNA MBX RTR....
OR an EB4 by TTR....
thanks....
morfeeis
08-02-2001, 10:53 PM
i got the w2 today and wow i cant wait till this friday to run it i need to redo the front shoick they feel almost dry
ofna_Kdog
08-03-2001, 05:26 PM
Hey guys, I am thinking of converting my GTLX into a monster truck...what do you think? How do I do it and how myhch $$?
machinehead
08-04-2001, 03:45 AM
Looked into it and it seemed like maor of a pain than just going out and buying a truck.
On another note... I got to try out my new Collari! This thing hauls! What a difference from my Hyper .21!
Now if I can just learn to drive...
Scriber
08-04-2001, 02:08 PM
I'm consistently running my P4 in the 250-270 range now. It seems as if the longer i run it on any given day...it gets hotter and hotter and i have to keep chasing the low end to bring the temp down.
morfeeis
08-04-2001, 09:45 PM
well i ran the w2 and what a rush. the power of that 21 is great. i had a hard time tuning it but i am getting the hang of it. i still need some help with what i will call the mid range power. it will rev up and when it comes down (say when slowing into a turn after a straight) it will stall out this sucked. i did some tunning and got it a bit better but it still does it a lot. another problem i saw was that it bogs down a lot so i leaned it at high end but then it would not start (lol) still working on that problem. i dont know if it is because of the high end or the traany that it bogs down but i had a real fun day with it till i ran out of gas. i only had a little left but i did not go to the LHS cause my brother gave me some nitro the night before (remind me to kill him) . after running out of my nitro i garbed the fuel he gave me and what do ya know dead as a doornail. the thing that put this so high on the suckass o meter was that i had just got it running better o well LHS opens at 11am so i will be back in the game tomorrow
i think i'm in love with this buggy my gt just sat there and looked at me i felt sorry for it sorry to say but it might be up on e-bay to pay for a rally car or a t-maxx
morfeeis
08-04-2001, 09:50 PM
do you guys think i need a temp gun or will my temp spit work??
by the way scriber that is what i had to do today this is nothing like .12's i just set my os and most of the time i am good for the day
and i take that back i would get a mp not a t-maxx
ofna_Kdog
08-05-2001, 03:05 AM
morfeeis,
what is the difference between the W2 and the GTLX anyway? I don't really see one! I was thinking about getting a new car or truck....and i was also thinking about getting an airplane....what do you think
morfeeis
08-05-2001, 03:35 AM
As far as I see it I wanted an airplane too but like I have said so many time I just get this picture of a $1000 fire ball falling out of the sky so I left that one alone.
The major difference between the w2 and the gt lx is the suspension, the chassis and some of the hop up's that the w2 comes with. A lot of ofna cars/trucks use the same platform. U Can turn any one of there 1/8 in to another with a few parts and a body.
machinehead
08-06-2001, 01:39 AM
Of you guys with the Worlds II, which of you have tried both suspensions, and which did you like better, the ball type or the C-hub type? I am currently using the ball type and was thinking of switching just to see if I can notice a difference.
TIA
Well, fellas, I got the used Ultra GT yesterday. It came with a P6 engine that was darned near seized. The bearings had so much gunk in it that it would barely turn. Broke out the WD40 and got the engine cleaned up. The buggy came with a K&N-type filter so I found fine dirt inside the engine. I'll need a new filter. Other than that the engine is in great shape and will be needing a piston/sleeve some time soon but it has enough compression to fire up still. Can someone post a picture of a P4 piston/sleeve for me? Preferrably one that has both side views?
The chassis was in good shape. The front bumper was broken as well as the rear wing mount. The front shock tower, front right dogbone, and radio tray were bent but I can straighten these up. The right rear shock came apart but there was a brand new set of shocks waiting for me to install after I build them. What shock oil weight should I use? I tore the center diff apart last night and filled it with 7000WT diff lube. Was this heavy enough? I will be rebuilding the front and rear diffs during the week and need to know what you recommend for these as well, as far as diff lube weights goes.
I plan on running it after I get some electronics in it then slowly fix it up a bit. I'm also thinking of getting the GTP body and body mounts to run this on the track. I might even get the Monster Blazer wheels and T-Maxx tires and a smaller clutchbell to make it a monster truck. Decsions, decisions...
Hey all....
Question for all of you...
I just got an MBX RTR and broke it in nice... Runs like a charm...
What hop-ups are available for this beast????
Thanks all...
gomezextreme
08-06-2001, 09:20 PM
Hey i also have a Blazer how can i fit TMax wheels on it?
morfeeis
08-07-2001, 01:44 AM
gome
u need to get special hubs for to put t-maxx tires on that truck be side the mp tires or bigger. that will also cause alot of stress on the motor and drive tran . e-mail the nice people at ace-hobbies.com or nitrohouse.com for better help
kkd
well right now all i can tell you is to get the ball set up for both the front and the rear (unless u have the r2) i have also read that the pistons in the ofna newer kits dont have enough damping for big jump bashing so u might want to look into getting some more pistons you might also wart to look in to getting some cva for the rear.
there is also those kick ass chrome wheels that ace hobbies that i will be getten soon :D :D :D
gomezextreme
08-07-2001, 10:17 AM
I love you guys lol This could get interesting love to upgrade! :D
ofna_Kdog
08-07-2001, 01:17 PM
PCC...7000 is kind of light for the center, I've heard a lot about putting in 10,000 to maximmize the amount of power you get to both front and rear from the engine. Try putting a mid-weight in the front, like 5000 and a light weight in the back like 1000 or 2000.
morfeeis
08-07-2001, 02:48 PM
hey i need help to anyone know why my buggy is bogging should i redo the diffs i have to get some dif oils when i get home.
think i will take kdogs set up for my first one
one thing i forgot to add about the boging is that once i get it reved up a few times it will take off from there in a snap but that first few times it will rev all the way up then putt putt off withsmoke blazeing out the pipe
lost racer good to see u back did ya get lost lol
Conrad
08-07-2001, 03:23 PM
What is the difference between GTLX, Worlds 1, and Worlds 2? Also, has anyone bought the Worlds 1 conversion for the GTLX?
Scriber
08-07-2001, 05:24 PM
Morfeeis: I think u have ur low too rich...try turning it clockwise.
morfeeis
08-07-2001, 08:40 PM
will try this weekend maybe tonite when i get home thanks :cool:
elscotto80
08-07-2001, 09:21 PM
My fellow OFNA drivers, I am sorry to tell you that I no longer own my GT LX, i have traded it for a 4-Tec Pro. I wish you all of luck with racing and what not.
Scott
Lost Racer
08-08-2001, 12:17 AM
I finally got the SPUR for my buggy..after a 2 hour drive to ace. Thanks DirtyPirate :D :p Still runs like new! I hadn't started it in 3 weeks. 2 bumps and it was off to the races! One problem now..The wife has started watching the finances more closely. No more ebay :( ;) for now anyway. hehe.
TeamCarnage
08-08-2001, 05:33 PM
el80- GoodLuck with your ON road car. Thanks for starting an informative thread.
Morfeeis- I'd check your clutch,the springs get weak causing annoying problems.
Scriber
08-09-2001, 10:11 AM
Does anyone know whether the Proline Crowd Pleazer body for the mp7.5 will fit a gtlx? I want a sleeker body where the engine heat sink is exposed. Or would a body for the Mugen mbx4 be better?
[ 08-09-2001: Message edited by: Scriber ]
Lost Racer
08-09-2001, 11:56 AM
See if the euro worlds 2 body will fit.
NickBurns
08-09-2001, 02:04 PM
Hey,
I just got back from being in chicago for 3 weeks, my car and all the parts were there waiting. I put the starter box together last night and I'm going to start on the car today. I'm going to take some picture when its all done and before I run it. Later
Nick
ofna_Kdog
08-09-2001, 04:04 PM
Worlds 1 conversion kit?? i'd like to get one of those!
ofna_Kdog
08-09-2001, 06:11 PM
Hey guys...look what I found on the OFNA webpage...this was posted under "How hot should my engine be?"
<table border="1" align="center">
<tr>
<td>
<hr>
Engine Temperature, How Hot and How to tell?
You tune the engine by measuring the engine’s temperature, and making the required adjustments to make the temperature correct. There are two ways to measure the engine’s temperature:
a) Temperature gage method: Get the engine up to running temperature, bring the car into the pits and immediately take a temperature reading. Place the temperature gage directly over the engine, pointed at the glow plug, and take a reading. It’s easier to do if you have a second person to take the readings for you. or you can have the on chassis units that are connected to the head of the car via a lead.
b) Spit method: Get the engine up to running temperature, then pull in as quickly as possible and put some spit on the engine’s cylinder head (quickly, so as to not burn your finger). The saliva should just slowly boil off (2 to 3 seconds). It should NOT dance around as if it were on a hot griddle, nor should it lay there and steam. In short, if your spittle will sizzle, it's too hot.
The best method is to get a temperature probe, there are several different types on the market, the kind that mount on the chassis of the car with a lead that connects to the head of the engine to monitor the temperature. Or there are the infra red hand held units that are more precise but far more costly.
If the engine is too rich, the engine temperature will be colder than desired (and vice versa). If the engine is too lean, the engine temperature will be hotter than desired. Go out on the track with the top end rich. If you’ve got the mixture set right, there will be heavy smoke from the engine on the straightaway. Run four or five full laps to get the engine up to running temperature before touching the carb. Bring the car in, and take a temperature reading. Start leaning out the top end by turning the adjusting screw only 1/12 turn at a time (picture a clock’s 12 even spaces). Take your time doing the adjusting - don’t be in a hurry. It may take a while. Your goal will be to get the car to just "punch clean" when you come onto the straightaway, which is what it will do when the mixture is set properly. For 1/8 scale cars, you’ll have the correct mixture when the temperature is about 200 degrees. The 1/10 scale cars run a little hotter, maybe around 250 degrees.
</td>
</tr>
</table>
I happen to feel that a temp of 200 degrees in a buggy is ridiculus! Does anyone else agree with me? ON a good day..i can run 250. Do you guys think the OFNA webmaster is on crack? Or maybe he's a computer geek who's never actually used the products he advertises..
morfeeis
08-09-2001, 07:14 PM
i use the spit gage so unless he say it should be at 5 seconds spit time i cant tell. but from what i have read all of you guys like it at 250 i have even seen some say 270-300 so i cant help you on this one :confused:
Scriber
08-09-2001, 10:11 PM
I think its just a way for them to avoid liabity if anything goes wrong with the engine. They can say that it wasn't used according to manufacturer suggestions.
I personally try to stay in the 250-70 range. I love mah temp probe...i dunno what i would do without it. I know tuning by temp isn't the best way to get the most performance but i don't race and i'd rather err on the safe side.
I just love jumping ramps. :D :D :D This is the best 330 dollars i've spent in a long time. Especially since i came back to r/c cuz i got burnt out racing my real car.
Lost Racer
08-10-2001, 11:03 AM
It all depends on the motor. You can only use the temp as a guide to help you tune. Remember if you still see a good amount of smoke and equally good pergfromance; you should be ok. :D
So, when is a P6 a P4?
The engine in my buggy has a large baby blue head on it. It's 2" across with flats milled on four sides and is about 1 3/4" tall. That's 50mm wide and 44mm tall for you metric folks. Does this imply that my engine is a P4 or a P6? The P4, from what I've seen, has a smaller head in a darker blue.
I stopped by Ace Hobbies and took a look at both the P4 and the P6 piston/sleeve sets. Looks like my engine is a P4 because it has the 4 port piston/sleeve. Strange?
The diffs have straight-cut gears in them as opposed to bevel gears. Which are better? I believe the newer kits have the bevels while the older ones have the straight gears, right?
I bought the steel spur gear, wing mount, wing, and two-stage air filter for the car and installed all of this stuff last night. While I had the center diff out I drained out the 7000WT and installed 50,000WT because I could not find my bottle of 10,000WT and my LHS was closed by this time. I realise that this is probably too heavy but, WTH, it's done. I'll be putting 5000WT in the rear diff tonight. I'll also be using the electronics from my HPI Nitro Mini in the buggy until I can afford to get proper servos and a PCM radio for it.
ofna_Kdog
08-10-2001, 02:56 PM
PCC it sounds like you have a P4 with a new head on it. I personally like bevel gears more, but it shouldn't make that much a diff. 50,000 wt?!! holy **** your tires are going to be spinnin!
Lost Racer
08-10-2001, 02:59 PM
P6 has a red head. And is 6-port as you stated before..The P4 has changed cosmetically from the older model. The older model has a larger blue head. Great engines will run forever just about :D
Oh, okay. I guess it's a P4, then.
I'll have to see how the 50,000WT works.
morfeeis
08-10-2001, 11:49 PM
TeamCarnage
I RAN IT TODAY AND IT JUST MIGHT BE THOSE SPRINGS(sorry) i got that trq tuned today it is way rich so i will have it for a while. but i leaned out the low end to see if that would help with the bogging but no luck there so i might tear down the motor and see if the clutch spring is bad.. by the way how do i tell if is bad or not
morfeeis
08-11-2001, 09:56 PM
where or all of u ???????? :confused: :confused: :confused: :( :( :(
ofna_Kdog
08-12-2001, 04:00 PM
Lock Tight all of the set screws that are on moving parts....universals...dogbones, axel carriers, whatever. If you don't, you'll be taking a trip to home depot to buy a bunch of new set screws. Parts that break the most: The Universals...they snap like twigs.
morfeeis
08-12-2001, 05:17 PM
lock tight all the metel parts just to be safe
Action Man
08-13-2001, 12:55 AM
Just ordered a Gt Lx rtr off of tower!! I can't wait for it to get here. What exactly needs to be lock-tightend end what are the most common parts to break?
FullAuto
08-13-2001, 10:50 AM
Hey Guys, I got an MBX-R2 buggy a month ago and installed a P4 in it and JR XR3 radio gear with a Z550 servo for the Throttle and a HiTech 5945 (I think thats the number) digital high torque servo for the steering. I am new to 1/8 scale buggies but not new to nitro RC. We have a smaller track with approx. 20 second lap times that I race on where I live but it is a new track and will expand as we grow in numbers. What I am wondering is this, does anyone have a good handle on suspension setups for this buggy? Ofna assembled and filled the shocks for me (it was an 80% kit) and I have no idea what fluid they used in them for a starting point. I have filled the diffs with 10,000 center, 5,000 front, and 3,000 rear and that seems to work pretty good for now plus I have a 3mm spacer in all 4 shocks. Ofna does not give any setup tips in their assembly manual like Kyosho and Mugen does and I don't know what piston they have in the shocks now. I am going to extend my wheelbase as much as the kit allows and see what that does, I think it has about 5-6mm of adjustment available. Anybody tried that before and does it help any? We have a fairly rough track built on natural turf with grass (>1/4 inch) and dirt, it is not groomed with lots of bumps in the corners :eek: of up to 2 inches tall I would guess.
It seems to be a prtty good buggy for those who might be looking to get one and I would definately recommend it to anyone except someone who is going to race Very seriously. For most hobby racers, the price and features, I think, fit the bill quite nicely and with a good motor I think it will compete with most people.
For Action Man, definately do all of the set screws on the outdrives from all of the differentials, I had 3 of mine loosen up during the shakedown run and that was only about 10 minutes. Also a friend of mine tore up the rear diff gears in about 20 minutes of easy laps, it looked to me like the side gears and planetary gears (spider gears) were separating under a load and skipping over each others teeth. This was in a brand new GT LX right out of the box. We found a similar problem with the front diff on his buggy which I fixed with a very thin washer under one side gear. I checked it by removing the cover (the one holding the ring gear) off the diff housing and then laying a straight edge across the gear stack in the housing. It had almost 2mm of clearance to the top of the diff case which allowed the gears to separate under a load and take off the top of the teeth, not good :( . Anyone else have a problem like this? The new set of gears we put in the rear diff seemed to cure the problem so I doubt it was the diff case size causing the problem.
Hows that for making a short story long? :D .....
FullAuto
squiddo
08-13-2001, 02:26 PM
After jumping my Ultra Worlds over a 6 ft mud puddle yesterday several times...
I had the misfortune of the engine sputtering
and it landing on the edge of puddle and flipping back into it :(
I soaked the carb and piston with gas... and tried to clean all mud out before it had time to dry... now the major clean up begins..
Any one got any tips or stuff I should look out for? :confused:
Guess I should get my P4 running better... it likes to run hot... but causes these kinda problems... :rolleyes:
TeamCarnage
08-13-2001, 08:36 PM
Morfeeis- I've had the springs break,but more than likely youll see a clutch shoe thats worn funny(from dragging on the clutch bell)I went to the heaviest Kyosho spring. I'd replace the shoes while its apart or at least scuff em up. I'm taking my clutch apart again and lightening them by drilling holes in each one. This gives you more bottom punch..as i'm told.
Anybody stripping ring gears in their fr/rr diffs? Stripped the front last week, thrashed liked heck to make the main, this weekend the rear bit the dust.I put the MBX away and ran the GT. At least I got to race! :) Had a ball..as usual!
Scriber
08-14-2001, 12:10 AM
I bent a rear wheel axle shaft today after landing a jump and the car cartwheeled a half dozen times. I'm gonna try to bang it back into shape so i won't have any down time.
Sector7G
08-14-2001, 12:29 AM
Wow this is one great big long OFNA topic. Awesome. I just got an Ultra MBX RTR Friday night. The P4 is the easiest engine I have ever had the pleasure of breaking in. It has started on the first pull every time. This is my first buggy, and my first .21 engine. This buggy has plenty of power. I can't imagine what it's like with a 2.7 hp Delta in it. I haven't even finished tuning the high speed, and it already screams. Much too fast for my backyard. Half throttle is faster than the top speed of my .15 CV-X T-Maxx.
Now, here's my problem. Everything is fine as long as I keep the tires on the ground just doing donuts and laps around the yard. Once I hit the backyard ramp though, my engine shifts and I lose the mesh between the pinion and spur. I am glad this buggy came with a steel spur, or I would have stripped it already. It did this 3 times in a row. The last time I reset the mesh, I took the washers out of the engine mount bolts hoping that the heads would grip the chassis a little better that way. Didn't work. Has anyone else had this problem? Does anyone know a solution? I really want to be able to jump this buggy. It looks so purty in the air. Please help if you can. Thanks.
RC cars are just like girlfriends. You spend a lot of time and money just to play with them for a little while.
Just a report.
I took the buggy out for the first time Saturday evening and fired it up. The pipe is loud! I've been told it's an old Paris pipe that is gawdaweful ugly but is supposed to be a really good torque pipe. Anyway, it seems that there is gunk in the carb that I will need to clean up.
I took the buggy to Delta RC yesterday and I found out that this is one tough buggy! I broke my other two cars that I brought within an hour of running both of them (HPI Racer 2 stripped the first gear hub and my NMT broke a suspension arm from rubbing a pipe that the buggy was going over!). I ended up running the buggy on the oval and, let me tell you, that pipe reminded me of an old hotrod with open pipes in the way it sounded. It ran really well be did not have the acceleration I was expecting from a .21. I will definitely take the carb apart to clean it out and try running it again. A problem I had was that the weather at Delta is way different from my home because I live near the coast and Delta is inland. Cold and humid vs hot and dry. The carb settings were all whacked when I got there and they're all whacked now for my home.
This buggy is tough as nails! I went over the pipes in the dirt track a few times, landed all wrong a few times, landed upside-down twice, went up the curb at the paved oval at least five times at over 25MPH AND I DID NOT BREAK A THING!. Truly amazing!
So, is the MBX suspension conversion worth it?
ofna_Kdog
08-14-2001, 06:10 PM
<h1><blink>EMERGENCY!!!!</blink></h2>
Does anyone know if I can put an Ultra Worlds II Chassis on an Ultra GT LX buggy????? I'm looking to replace the chassis and I was wondering if i could just put everythign on the Worlds II...or do i need to buy a blue annodized chassis?
ofna_Kdog
08-14-2001, 06:27 PM
PCC...OFNA carbs are notorious for being ....well...horrible!! Replace the carb with a picco and i guarantee you will be happy.
ofna_Kdog
08-14-2001, 06:58 PM
Sector....go get a power drill...use it to tighten your engine mounts. That's all i gotta say.
Squiddo
08-14-2001, 11:25 PM
http://members.home.net/squiddo/Ofna_Worlds_Muddy.JPG
morfeeis
08-14-2001, 11:30 PM
now thats what i like to see dirt lots and lots of dirt
Squiddo
08-14-2001, 11:34 PM
:D
Our track was muddy.. but I had to run.. Just had too ;)
That cleanup was easy... I still haven't bathed it since I jumped into that mud puddle.
NickBurns
08-15-2001, 11:05 AM
Hey guys,
I'm trying to get my ofna delta engine started but I'm having some trouble. The compresion in the engine is to great for the starterbox to turn it over. This ever happen to you guys, and how did you fix it. I've been told to loosen the plug, can anyone explain more.
Nick
TeamCarnage
08-15-2001, 06:27 PM
N.Burns- L.R. is on the right track.If the momentum from bdc isn't enough u can loosen the glow plug until theirs only a couple of threads holding it. It will let compression escape.Make sure your starter box is close to 100%. When it starts tighten the plug. Good Luck w/ your new powerplant.
ofna_Kdog
08-15-2001, 09:41 PM
Burns...i had the EXACT problem when i got my DElta Force. Try putting some after run or wd 40 in the glow plug hole...take the plug out completely...all the way...remove that sucker. Then turn it by hand a few times or if you're lucky you'll be able to run it on your starter box like that. You're going to have to do that for a while just to get the parts moving. After it gets easier...put the plug back in. good luck.
Lost Racer
08-16-2001, 12:12 AM
try turning the fly wheel so its BDC and bump it from there. It may take a couple tries..but that may work.
NickBurns
08-16-2001, 10:08 AM
THanks for the replies guys. I tried warming it up with a hair dryer and it turned over a few times. Its really eating my starter wheel though, it keeps hitting the chassis. I'm gonna try the things you guys said tonight. What is BDC? Also how long do you guys cover the pipe to prime the engine? Like 2 seconds while the engine is turning over? Thanks
Nick
Lost Racer
08-16-2001, 11:14 AM
BDC=Bottom Dead Center.
Primeing= Until you see fuel make it to the carb.
Good Luck. :D
Another way to tell if fuel has made it is by the sound. When dry it makes kind of low sound with the engine turning over on the box. When fuel makes it to the carb the sound makes a higher pitch and sounds like its going faster.
[ 08-16-2001: Message edited by: Lost Racer ]
Want MBX-4
08-16-2001, 02:42 PM
WAHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!! My MBX is running great! This is my first post here in the Ofna forum. I have a MBX R2 and I love it! It's got a Hyper 21, Futaba 3PDF. This car SCREAMS! I mean very very loud. I like it so much. What diff. oils do you run for like NO tire slippage and alot of speed? What about for raw power? What shock oil do you run and what springs do you run? Who makes the hopups such as 2-speed tranny and aluminum arms?
Thanks for all of your help :) Turtledad2@aol.com :)
OFNA makes the 2 speed... I just bought one last night and will be installing it tonight!!!! YEEEEHAAAAA!!!!
It was $78 US.....
Sweet...
sees ya..
Big Wig
08-16-2001, 04:12 PM
I've had my MBX R2 for awhile but don't have it running yet,... I've been too busy :mad:
I'm psyched today because I finally did something with it,... I painted the body! It looks pretty good! I'm no painting pro but I got some 3/16 wide tape and made some curvy lines then filled in the rest with liquid mask. This is the first time I've used liquid mask and the stuff works great! The body is orange, white and silver (KTM dirtbike colors of course) with orange being the main color (like most of my RC's).
I popped the shocks on, mounted the wing and put the wheels and tires on the buggy (haven't glued them yet) just to finally see what this thing looks like. This buggy rocks! It's only a couple of inches bigger than my GT but it looks massive.
Needless to say, I can't wait to finish this thing and go for a rip!
I have an Ofna Force P4 engine, Ofna Rx pack and Hitec 5945 and 5925 digital servos for steering and throttle (respectively). I even bought gold aluminum servo horns :D
I will be done with it soon! I'm just so busy at work I don't have as much time for RC stuff as I'd like.
I'll post again when this sucker is running ;)
Lost Racer
08-16-2001, 05:29 PM
Hey Big Wig,
Don't forget to loctite the set screws.... :D :D :D
Does anybody have plastic stand-offs for their radio tray? I do and the tray moves when I hit the brakes. Makes it so that the brakes hardly work. I stopped by Ace-Hobbies today and got a pair of aluminum stand-offs to see if this helps. If not then I'll have to make a brace and some other things to stiffen the chassis up a bit more.
Speaking of Ace-Hobbies, I can't say enough good things about them!
What's your impressions of the GS Storm? My brother wants a buggy, now, after seeing mines and he is looking at the Storm. J.R. says that parts are next to impossible to find for it. I'm trying to talk him into a Worlds II or MBX.
NickBurns
08-16-2001, 06:12 PM
Well i got my ofna p8 engien running a little bit today. I say it ran for a total for 2 minutes before my starter box batter wore out. Right now i'm in the middle of charging everything and putting a few more finishing touched on the buggy. I ran into 3 problems, 1 know how to fix.
1) When i was building i was like, oh i'll just locktie that later when I'm gonna run it. A week later I forget and the center CVA falls off.
2) It looks like there is fuel leaking? maybe right around the flywheel. Its like a little spot of fuel.
3) At 0 throttle the wheels are spinning some. How do I make it so that the clutch does not engage at 0 throttel. Idel screw?? Where is it and what way would I turn it.
Thanks a lot.
Nick
Lost Racer
08-16-2001, 07:36 PM
Idle screw-
Counter Clockwise=Close
Clockwise=Open
Location-Tiny screw right under the carb opening at the top, sticking out towards your pipe.
vetrider
08-16-2001, 08:10 PM
Nick, on the clutch problem, drilled a hole (red marked) in every clutch shoe of 3 m/m diameter to lighten the clutch shoe. This will engage the clutch a little later. This is from the TWF8 web sight. TWF8 (http://www.twf8.ws/new/vote.html)
http://home.hetnet.nl/~t-w-f/pics/tteb4le/tteb4le_154.jpg
That fuel leak at the front is hopefully coming from your carb cause if it's not, then the front main bearing is leaking and engine NO RUN GOOD! ;) If at all!!
Scriber
08-16-2001, 09:24 PM
If i'm correct if u turn the idle screw in(clockwise)...the idle will be higher.
Additionally, I have fuel around the fly wheel also...but my engine is running fine.
NickBurns
08-16-2001, 11:00 PM
Thanks a lot guys. The idle screw was making it idle high, the carb was being held open maybe 1/8 of the way by the idle screw. The engine seams to be running ok now I got it going for about another 3-4 minutes today. All my stuff is charging tonight and I'm pretty sure that I will get to completly break it in tomorrow. I'm sure i'll have some more questions tomorrow after something breaks or doesn't work :mad: . Talk to you later.
Nick
NickBurns
08-16-2001, 11:56 PM
I was reading that TWF8 page that was linked. It said to NEVER threadlock the wheel nuts that hold on the tires. Whenever I don't my wheels end up falling off after 5 minutes. What do you guys do?
Nick
Lost Racer
08-17-2001, 11:43 AM
Those nuts strip easily..I think thats why they say not to threadlock them. I just give mine a little torque at the end to hold them on.
ofna_Kdog
08-17-2001, 05:22 PM
yeha, don't even think about threadlocking those nuts on the tire mounts. If you do that...the locking compound leaks into the hub and makes it bind to the cva...definetly not good...i've done it.
poipoundah
08-18-2001, 05:36 AM
Can you show me your Ofna buggies? (Pics please)
[ 08-18-2001: Message edited by: poipoundah ]
morfeeis
08-18-2001, 03:21 PM
just look back you will see a lot of pic of all or buggies
but if not i have a few just in a rush so i might post later
gedertr
08-19-2001, 01:36 AM
Here's my collection! The GTLX is running pretty good. Tearing it down to put silicone oil in the diffs 3000 Front, 10000 Center, 7000 Rear.
http://www.printroom.com/_vti_bin/ViewImage.dll?userid=gedertr&album_id=34380&image_id=3&courtesy=1
What kind of bodies can I use on a GTP?
I am looking at touring, buggy, etc.
Lost Racer
08-20-2001, 10:51 AM
GTP has a couple bodies right now that I know of..The Maclaren and the Viper..heard rumors that the Kyosho Landmax bodies may fit...
I finally made it back ou to the racesx this weekend..Found out right before the beginning of the second qualifying heat that my ballend for my rear torque rod had snapped. That caused me some serious problems later on. With the chassis flex I now have, it assisted in 2 mounting screws constantly being lost from my rear gear box. Not a good thing. :mad: Bent my front shocktower for 4th time. I don't car what anyone says, aluminum can only be bent back so many times before its integrity can be hindered. I think 4 times is enough. After Bending back my shock tower, it cracked down by the gear box. I still ran it with and it survived , so I guess I've worn down its lifetime. :D VERY BAD glitching this weekend out at Delta for those who went. VERY BAD :mad: :mad: I replace my batteries in my buggy and Tx only to find out it did NOTHING! My Buggy took off and hit turn marshall. :( I felt really bad a bout it. He was ok though. But I finished the day. Not very well. But I did finish with out any actual breakages. I have to order some screws and ballends. Oh yeah, for Dirty Pirate-Sorry for stepping on your buggy so much :p :rolleyes: really, it was an accident ;) I'll be calling soon for parts.
Lots of fun though. Hope you guys had a good weekend.
Landmax bodies don't fit. They're narrower (more scale, which Tamiya and Kyosho are **** over) and the wheelwells are a lot smaller.
Lost Racer, I was experiencing glitching there a few weeks back. I wonder if it might be some locals playing games?
What flex are you talking about? On my Ultra GT, I took out the aluminum brace between the rear diff and the radio tray and installed a very long turnbuckle from a T-Maxx to link the rear diff and the center diff housing. I haven't run this combination, yet, but I think it works better than what was there before. Also, I took out the plastic radio tray stand-offs and replaced them with HPI aluminum ones which solved the problem with the radio tray moving when I hit the brakes or the throttle.
I'm seriously considering converting my suspension to the Ultra MBX suspension. Which suspension design is better? Which is lighter? Stronger? Thanks!
Lost Racer
08-20-2001, 04:53 PM
PCC On the worlds 2 there is a turnbuckle that goes from the gearbox down to the chassis. The cup on the end snapped, so there was no force between the gearbox and the chassis. So you could literally bend the rear end of the chassis up and down with little force. The last time I ran at delta and had that type of glitching my receiver fried :eek: I hope that doesn't happen again.
Dirty Pirate
08-20-2001, 08:51 PM
u and i both got spanked at delta.. man that glitching was killin me.. i cant beleive i got dumped into the B main.. i was like 8 laps ahead of the nearest racers... i should have been in A-main! darn it all.. and that glitching... dangit.. i just spent 30 bucks to get all the stuff to fix my rear wing mounts!! oh well 30 dollars aint too bad for how hard i was runnin.
btw at ace-hobbies we just got in the new OFNA hyper seven pro kits.. but its like 450 for rolling chassis! i would take a mugen before tha hyper.. and i was lookin thru the parts bags.. and the quality varies - like some stuff is machined real nice.. then others have real crappy finish.
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