OFNA 1/8 Buggys v1.0

[Vmax911]

Does anyone know how to adjust the tension on the built-in servo saver. I have a GT LX and just found out that my servo saver is too tight :mad: . Luckily servo horns are cheap and metal gears are tough!

[Vmax911]

Okay, I figures out that the servo saver is not adjustable. However, I was able to get it to move freely and actually work.

For my next question, do I need the anti-roll bar? The track I run on is pretty bumpy, would it be beneficial to take it off? Aren't they more for onroad anyways?

Thanks!!

[MightyTaco]

Big Wig - Just wrench 'em down!! I have to give my TC's wheel nuts all ive got to keep them on. :)

BTW - Big Wig is an awesome band! (i assume thats where ya got your name)

[Big Wig]

MightyTaco,

Yeah I ran my buggy all day on Saturday and I didn't throw a wheel... I torqued 'em down pretty good.

Actually, "Big Wig" was Tamyia's flagship car back around 1986 when I started raing. It was 4wd and mine had a Tekin ESC and a Thorp diff ... man, I miss that car ;)

[GT]

Vmax, I would lose the anti-roll bars on the bumpy track. If the track was really smooth, then I would keep them. Try running a tank with them on, and a tank with them off, and see which is better for you.

[Big Wig]

I have an MBX R2... is there a Rx box out there besides the stock one that I can fit into my car? I'd like something with a flip-top lid. I don't care if it holds the Rx pack... in fact I don't want it to, I'll keep the Rx pack right where it is; nice and low ;)

A Rx box that stays put when I open it and stays shut with a body clip sounds real attractive to me!

thanks
Jay

BTW - this thread seems to have died! Did everyone sell their Ofna buggies?

[cucountry]

Hey guys, im new to the buggy scene and i just bought a worlds II last night off ebay. I have a couple questions. What other brands of rims will fit this buggy. Im really curious about the Kyosho rims fitting as they are carried more from my LHS. What weight lube should i put in the diffs and shocks. I wont be racing this one, just using it for fun till i make up my mind on which one i want to race competitively. Also, what kind of reciever packs are good for this car? And is there a company that still makes bodys for the worlds II. I couldnt find one at tower hobbies.

[cucountry]

I havent gotten my buggy yet but i want to order the engine tommorrow. Does anyone know if the worlds II takes a standard shaft or a pilot shaft. Im going with the O.S. RG .

[MightyTaco]

The worlds 2 takes either. You have to buy a special nut if you get the sg style though. Good choice of engine :)

I have another q regarding fitting the rg in the worlds 2. It calls for a spacer behind the flywheel on the os engines because of the crank size. you cant just cut it because of the length of the non threaded section. What did you guys use? I noticed nothing was included in the kit and nothing came with the engine... Any help/tips? Thanks guys

[Vmax911]

Hey guys, I use an OS RG in my ofna. I think we went over the spacer thing a couple pages back. Basically, I mutilated a 7x19 bearing and used the inner race for the spacer. Works like a charm!

[1134]

VMaxx, do you race at the Vision Hobby races? If so what do you drive. I have the MP.

There is going to be a race on the 17th. This time they are going to give cash prizes.

[Vmax911]

I haven't raced at vision since '95 or so. Back then it was with my XX. Now I play with an Ofna GT LX buggy, but it seems no one races them around here. I go out and bash around the Payson track sometimes though.

[PsychoCat]

I'm currently trying to mount an Ofna Hyper .21 engine with pull start on my Worlds II buggy. My problem is that the included engine mounts don't work with this engine. Anybody here know what engine mounts will work?

I know this is a stupid question but I'm hoping to get a part number, and I don't have much time on-line to research this properly.

Thanks.

[MightyTaco]

are you sure they wont work? I thought the included mounts would work on any engine especially an ofna... What about them is not letting you mount up the hyper?

BigWig - Thats funny because "Big wig" is also a great ska band.

[PsychoCat]

MightyTaco - The part that prevents the engine mounts from working is the pull start. The back of the engine is slightly larger to accept the screws to hold on the pull start. That larger area prevents the engine from being able to slide forward far enough for the clutch bell to touch the main gear. I think the problem is just that I need engine mounts designed for a pull start engine.

[1134]

VMaxx, the race is going to be in Payson at 9am on the 17th. I think it is going to be $8 for the entry fee. There is going to be cash prizes for 1st and 2nd place for each class. Then they are going to race all the class winners together. I have heard that John is going to put up $100 to the winner. Hard to say if he is just trying to get people out, or is just confident that he will win.

PsychoCat, I am suprized that it doesn't work. I have a GTP (nearly the same chassis as the UW2) that came with a P4 pullstart. The engine mounts are the same as the UW2.

My first thought was to tell you to try the MP engine mounts, but the holes on the bottom aren't the same distance as the Ultras. There is a CNC mount listed for the UW2 #31190, but it is $44. Kind of expensive to try. Try calling NitroHouse and ask them what fits.

[Vmax911]

1134 - Are they going to have a 1/8 buggy class? Maybe I'll call in sick to work. :)

[1134]

It depends on how many show up for that class.

BTW, the 17th is a Saturday.

[rolo]

Any of you guys perfer using the ball pivot front suspension or the hub suspension on the worlds2. Im running the ball pivot and it seems to be ok. And i notice on the hyper7 and 9.5 they perfer running with the hub style. So what do you guys perfer?

Thanks

[cucountry]

I have the ball on mine and it runs just great. It just seems like a stronger set than the hub type.

[Jwelch]

Hey guys. If you've read the Nitro forum lately, you know I'm looking at the UW2. What do you guys think of it, personally? Any problems with durability or anything? I think it looks like a winner for the money, so I'll ask for it for X-mas if it gets a good response. Thanks!

[cucountry]

I really love mine, its very durable and very fast. The only problem is the stock is running very low on them. Ace hobbies is out of them now and im not sure who else has them at that low price so you better start looking like mad now and put some money down to hold one because they are definitely worth it especially for $200.

[cucountry]

Jwelch, i put my other one up for sale, its brand new and completely built but without a body but i will ship it for free to cover the difference. Its on ebay, item #1660609523. Check it out, im only asking what i paid for it and ace hobbies is now sold out of them at that price and tower hobbies is still asking $344.00 for them.

[Lowrider170]

How good is the Ultra GT lx RTR?All i want to do is just bash.And how strong is it?

[Vmax911]

I have a GT LX. It has held up very well. I've never broken any control arms, though I thought I should have a few times! It's been very good to me.

[Lowrider170]

How fast are thay are and are thay belt are shaft driven?

[Vmax911]

They are shaft driven. I'm not sure how fast they are. I didn't get mine RTR, but even with the O.S. RG it screams.

[1134]

In my UW2 manual is shows two different 2-speed transmissions, part #35001 and #35011.

They call the #35011 a shoes type. It uses two large shoes with 2 set screws for engaging the 2nd gear.

Does this still exist? Has anyone used it?

[MightyTaco]

PsychoCat- Oh that makes sense :) . You would think they would include a mount set for ps engines...

Anyone else notice that they forgot add a step in the instructions? They had you put two long flat head self tapping screws into the front gearbox from under the chassis, but not for the rear. I had two left over after building the kit and there are holes for them, so i put em in. Hmmm..

As for the diffs... Oh man, these things are a pain. Mine leak like crazy and i toasted a gear in the center diff already after 5 runs. Anyone figure out the perfect placement of shimms to get them working good?? Besides these diff problems, this w2 kit has been killer!!

[1134]

You could use some gasket sealer to help with the leaks.

[AnklBytr]

Ace has the Ofna Ultra MBX R2 for $180 and I want it!

However, I don't want to spend a TON right now 'cause I'm just getting back in to the hobbie.

How's this part list sound?

Airtronix Blazer Radio (only question is if it has a "out of range" safety)

Trying to decide on the Engine!
Ofna Super Force vs. OS 21RG

Help me if you can! I'd really appreciate the input!

Ankl

[Big Wig]

AnklBytr,

I have an MBX R2 and it's a pretty nice car... for $180, it's a GREAT car :D

The Blazer radio will be fine...
only question is if it has a "out of range" safety

You would need a PCM (big bucks) radio for this or you can buy a $30 fail safe

I would definitely buy the OS RG. I am a huge fan of OS engines. I plan to put the RG in my buggy.. I'm not real happy with the P4 I'm presently running but I admit I've never run an "Ofna super force". I just think you can't go wrong with the OS.

You should plan on getting a powerful servo for steering duty... I use a Hitec 5945. It's a digital servo with 180 in/oz of torque. You can get these for $79 at Nitrohouse. Others here may have some suggestions for a less expensive servo that will do a fine job.

You can get away with a "standard" servo for throttle/brake. I like something with 90 - 120 in/oz of torque but I'm temporarily running a $20 throttle servo in my buggy and it gets me by just fine.

If you buy the R2, plan on tearing down the diffs for inpection and possibly re-shimming. The diff gears are soft! I think I'm going to buy better/harder gears from Ofna soon!

I'm still in the process of getting my R2 to work the way I want it to but I'm getting close ;) I'm running 10,000wt diff oil in the center, 7000wt front and 5000wt rear... this works MUCH better than the grease the car comes with. I also went with 30wt shock oil front and 35wt rear and this helped a lot.

IMHO, for $180, there is no better way to get into 1/8 scale. The car doesn't need anything to work well, I just suggest the diff tear-down because I don't trust Ofna to assemble them... others here suggested the same to me when I bought mine.

BTW - I have a JR XR3 radio I'm thinking of selling... if you're interested, email me

good luck
Jay

[Vmax911]

I agree, OS is the way to go. Very reliable, easy to tune, and very forgiving. I have one in my GT LX, and it's great!

As far as a steering servo goes, I use a $35 tower hobbies brand "ultra torque" servo. 132 oz/in and a .18 sec transit time @6v. It's done really well at a very reasonable price.

Good luck, you'll love the 1/8 buggies!

[Rotorranch]

Definitely go through the diffs when you get the car! And you will probably want to take the shocks apart and Loc-tite the nut on the shaft that holds the piston on the shaft. The manufacturer failed to use thread lock on them, and will probably come apart, damaging the shaft and/or the seals if you don't Loc-tite them!

If you look through some of the other posts in this forum, you will find some pretty detailed info on these problems. It will prevent some headaches in the future! ;)

I'd also go with the O.S. RG. Great engine! :D

Rotor

[AnklBytr]

Thanks for the input!

I'm going to look to see if there's some replacement diff gears for the front/rear diffs after I get some time with the kit.

That OS-RG vs. SuperForce question still bugs me only because of the horse power/$$$ difference. When I had my last buggy (6 years ago) I had a OS RX-B and I'm hoping for some of the same "punch". Will I get close with the RG? I wont be racing but I still loved the POWER! However, if the general feel is that the OS is a more reliable longer-lasting engine with more available repair/replacement part options then I'll probably get it.

Is Ace-hobbies the place to buy?

Ankl

[AnklBytr]

BTW...BIG WIG,

Fling me an email @ wcarroll@carolina.rr.com regarding that JR radio.

[OFNAFREAK]

I have a BLAZER SST that I converted into a MONSTER BLAZER. I have a novarossi RB concept s7 europa engine and a two-speed in it. It hauls a$$. I love the power this thing has. I definitely recommend either version to anyone interested.

[BowtieZ72]

I just recently got into 1/8 scale buggies (Worlds II) and I love it. I just ran my 14th tank of fuel through it today. Im running the OFNA/Picco .21 2.1h.p. (#51221). I love it. I am partial to O.S. also, but for $128.00 I thought I would give it a try. I dont have anything to campare this to, but I couldnt imagine a 2.4hp or 2.8hp. engine. I have had absolutely no problems with it yet, the buggy or the engine. It fires right up and runs strong. Im using a Cirrus CS-80 servo for steering, it has like 129.0 oz torgue and is .24 sec on speed, I use a longer servo horn so Im sure it speeded it up a tad bit, plus I dont prefer a real fast steering servo, I find myself over correcting myself to easy with a fast servo. I also use a REX EFRA 9853 One-piece pipe. Im not sure, but I believe it is a low to mid pipe for tighter turns and shorter straights (not sure). If it is, I would love to see a high end pipe on it. It has great low to mid, but screams on the top end. Other than that, it is pretty much stock. I use a JR XR3 radio system to control it (along with my GT). Not counting the radio gear, Im into the buggy for $340.00 Not to bad I would say. The only thing I would like to improve on it for now is the shocks, but I just need to play around with some different weights of oil.

[AnklBytr]

Sounds like a heck of a deal. Did the Picco .21 pull start fit the Ofna kit stock or did you have to get special motor mounts?

Did you buy your stuff used? If not, tell me where you got the deals...you can email me directly if you prefer @ wcarroll@carolina.rr.com

[M 5]

Since this is 1/8, is the monster blazer good?
I'm about to trade thisfor my RC10GT...any comments on good/bad about this car?

[Rotorranch]

I would probably buy the MBX R2 again. You can't beat it for the money! We haven't had any more problems with the diffs. Ofna sent us some gears that are supposed to be better than the originals. I have installed 3 sets in the 4 cars I prep here. I also shimmed the bevel gears, using Kyosho BS-53 shim sets, to eliminate any excess free play. I use the stock Ofna shims under the small bevel gears, and one Kyosho shim behind each of the large bevel gears. This has seemed to do it for the diffs on all but one diff, which required only one shim behind one of the large bevel gears, but not the other.

After assembling the diff, put the diff into the case, and check the preload and backlash of the pinion gear to the ring gear. I have had to use 2 or 3 shims behind the pinion to get the excess freeplay out of the gears.

After these mods, we haven't had any more diff problems.

The MBX R2s we have are my sons cars. So far, we haven't had any other real problems with the cars, with the exception of the diffs. My son has 2 of them, and a customer has 2 others. We have broken 2 a arms, and a couple of front bumpers. We also had two shocks come apart, because the factory didn't use thread lock on the nut holding the piston to the shock shaft. One broke the shaft, one just took out the shock seals. Make sure you use thread lock on the nut in the shock.

We also have one car that wore out the outdrives and dogbone on the front/center diff. None of the other cars have had this problem. Guess it was just soft metal.

We have had no problems with the pivot ball suspension. It is harder to set up than the standard supension, but works great!

I have been a Kyosho racer for over 10 years, and still think the quality of the Kyosho cars are better than the Ofnas, but they are also quite a bit more expensive.


Rotor

[BowtieZ72]

Yes the engine fit the stock (included) engine mount that came in the kit. All the stuff was new, not used. The buggy itself came from Ace hobbies. The Picco engine came from a hobby shop in Tampa Florida, dont remember the name right now.

[winning edge designs]

Not sure if any of you have gotten a Hyper 7,or worked on them as comared to other OFna cars. I'm wondering if the pivot ball front end will fit,or can it be made to fit the Hyper 7. Also other parts,like diffs,cases etc. Do they interchange or are they completely new?.............Thanks,Jim

[highonnitro]

ok i dont understand one thing. all you guys with the ultra gtlx buggies say that you guys break your spur gears and that you need to buy a new steel one. WEll i bought a gtlx from my freind the other day and i noticed taht the spur gear was already steel and i asked him if he had switched it and he said no. he said it came with it so im kinda confused because by the sounds of it, it sounds like yours dont come with steel spur gears but mine did. oh well

[Vmax911]

My GT LX came with a steel spur gear as well. Ofna probably just upgraded the kit mid-production.

[OFNAFREAK]

I love the Monster Blazer. The only problems I have encountered were the gearing. I started off with an OFNA P4 engine and it didn't have the power to get it going very well. I reccomend either a good high power engine or to save money get a low spur gear to use with a more mild engine. Other than that I haven't had any problems and it goes any where I want.

[1134]

Winning Edge,

To understand which parts are interchangable, you need to understand that OFNA is not the manufacture of their cars, they are the distributer. They manufacturers are Hong Nor and Ho Bao.

Hong Nor makes the HODR, Ultras, Blazers, and the OFNA 9.5. I compaired the parts between the Ultra Worlds II and the 9.5 to see how different they were. They used a lot of common parts.

The Pirates, and the Hyper 7 are made by Ho Bao. From what I understand, the Hyper 7 doesn't use similar parts. It is difficult to tell, their website is still about 80% chineese on the english pages.

[winning edge designs]

1134,Thanks for the reply. From what you posted it is a similar set-up to what Traxxas has. Since Traxxas is the importer of a product they have manufactuered,assembled,etc over seas.

The main reason i'm wondering is I see so many parts available on E bay for other Ofna cars,but not the Hyper 7. And since i've broken A-arms,front steering knuckles and CVA's i'm wondering if I could save a couple dinero's. I may just go to the Kyosho car the Hyper 7 duplicates fairly well,since they liked it enough to copy it,maybe that would be the way to go. Just so much more money then any Ofna kit for a 7.5. But after being in contention 3 A mains in a row and having something break,makes me wonder,what if?.....Jim

[bump-n-run]

WED !!! Say it aint so. You preached so well on the Hyper 7 Pro and now you are considering a Kyosho 7.5? I still havent decided on which to buy, but if you are having so many problems maybe i will just go with the 7.5. I hear its a reliable car and there are lots of parts for it. What about the Mugen? Help me out man? I can afford either of them, but which would be the best for my money that would be reliable and have parts more available.

[winning edge designs]

bump and run,i'm not giving up on the car yet. It handles awesome,i'm just concerned and thinking out loud. I'll race it again in the upcoming Fl state series race,if it let's me down again the thinking may turn into action..........I will post after the race if it's here to stay or not.

MY biggest concern comes from talking to Ofna techs,who said they aren't having any trouble with arms breaking and that they had CNC front knuckles for the knuckle problem,or use Kyosho parts. Then after talking to someone else who called,I got a different story. They said front arms are breaking left and right and an improved arm is on the way. So i've decided if another arm breaks i'll know who to believe,and make a decision.

Basically,I know I can compete with almost any car,I chose the Ofna for it's looks and price.Turned out it handles very well,but I need to finish well too!..........i'll let you know,Jim

[bump-n-run]

Hey WED, when is that race? I wont be buying another buggy for a couple of weeks but im kinda leaning toward the Mugen XR if you're still having problems with the pro7. Tower has lowered the price on the Kyosho 7.5 to $449 and it seems to be dropping everywhere so if it gets down to around $400 i might go with it. You race down in the area to where im moving so my next question is how hard is it to get parts for the ofna down there. I know you said that you were running Mugen CVD's in your car, so are the Mugen or Kyosho parts easier to find?

[highonnitro]

hi, for all you gtlx owners with owners manuals, today i was using my buggy and i crashed into a wall and broke a plastic peice up front right behind the bumper, this peice has 2 holes at its ends that the hingepins for the front a arms go into, its got 2 other screw holes closer together which is meant for the screws that hold it to the front of the front differential gear box. well thisis the best i can describe it. just email me the part number at waleegator@aol.com. thanks, and also if you can, an estimate on how much itll cost, im guessing like $3.00. thanks

[bab00n14]

Hey what do you guys think about the Ofna Ultra MBX R2? i am wanting to get started in 1/8 scale but i am NOT going to race. i can find this car for 180 wihout engine or radio. i have a 3 channel FM to put in it so a radio is no prob. i would prolly put a ofna p4 pull start in it. how does this car compare to the GS Storm? Thanks for your help

[dubbs22]

i'll have mine on tuesday can't wait
:D

[bab00n14]

dubbs22

lemme know what you think of the car. thanks!
how much yu pay for it? what engine you put in it?

[winning edge designs]

From what i've seen at our local tracks,the MBX-R2 is more durable then the GS Storm,in fact the,Storm seems like the least durable of all 1/8th scales so far.

Stick with the MBX-R2 or Hyper 7,9.5 etc,the only variable there is wether you'll race or not. The MBX is up to that as well,but not so much as Ofna's newer kits.

I think,imo,that the best sport engine you can buy under $150 is the O.S. RG.............Jim

[dubbs22]

i'll go with a picco 01 or a rb worlds

[dubbs22]

o i forgot i piad 179.99 at ace

[winning edge designs]

dubbs,you paid $179 for a picco 01 or and RB worlds?....they are $250 engines?........How can I get that deal,:),Jim

[dubbs22]

i paid 179.00 for the kit . it came in today:D

[winning edge designs]

Oh,for the MBX-R2,still a great deal!...............Good luck with it!.....Jim

[agalanis]

What is the difference between the Ofna buggies?

I'm looking at the MBX R2 as a first 1/8 car.

Someone let me know.

:confused: :confused: :confused:

[dubbs22]

i was reading on the diffs . it looks like the gears in my diffs are steel and they used thread lock on my kit. there is no backlash on the ring and pinion.

[winning edge designs]

Agalanis,so far i've only owned two 1/8th buggies. A Mugen RR and a Hyper 7,so far I like the Hyper 7 alot better! That's not considering the lower prices either!

For a first 1/8th car,I can recommend any Ofna car. They sell for far less,but don't give up much performance wise,usually NOTHING at all and may have an advantage in some cases!...I do think the Kyosho is realistically the best car out,but WAY more money and not required for a first time buggy!.............Good luck,Jim

[agalanis]

Winning Edge

Thanks for the input, but I was specifically looking at what is the difference between the 3 Ofna buggies

MBX R2
Hyper 7
9.5

[winning edge designs]

The MBX is a sport buggy,very capable but somewhat limited suspension,due to pivot ball design,soft parts,etc.
The Hyper 7 is a more race oriented version,better included equipment,more options,better geometry,still considered by some soft suspension.Very tunable for racing.
The 9.5 is Ofna's Top O' the line buggy,stiffest available material from ofna,similar geometry as the Hyper7,but not interchangable parts.Even more options coming,Very tunable for racing.
Each Kit reflects it's intentions in the price category as well!Hope this helps,Jim

[agalanis]

Hmm sounds like the MBX R2 might be kind of not worth it.

Maybe just save up for the Kyosho 7.5 KE

Unless I'm missing something here. Any other comments?

[bab00n14]

Ok question for all of you ofna guys...
Should i get -
Ofna MBX RTR
or
Ofna MBX R2 and use my futaba 3 model radio and get a p4 engine
No racing for me, just bashing w my Losi XXX NT
thanks

[veronitro]

Get the MBX R2 and a O.S. RG instead of the force p4. I had a p4 and it is very easy to tune, but not up to par with the O.S. The RG is $129 and worth the extra $30 by a long shot. Good luck! P.S. Remember to fill those diff's with silicone oil and shim the front/rear large bevel gears.

[winning edge designs]

agalanis,I may have tripped up if I made you think the MBX isn't worth $200 somehow. The car is well worth the investment,especially if your not racing,or even at the club level racing it will be great. I only wanted you to know they have higher end cars available for a higher end price.It's more about what you want to spend and what you need it to be capable of doing....................All good cars,for thier intended use,Jim

[morfeeis]

(walks in looks around and starts to type)

agalanis

what buggy u get all depends on how you will use it and what parts you lhs has. if you will be racing at a track that has no ofna part the i would say go with what ever they stock parts for (there nothing that sucks more ass the ending the day cause the hobby shop is out of the part you need). on the other hand if you will just be racing around at a local track are bashing in the field then stick with what ever you like. IMO the ofna cars are some of the best 1/8 buggy bashers around and with the right driver (that wont be me) they are even better racers.

If you are going to spend the cash then I would say get the W2(worlds 2 ) I like the car better and it is ofna old pro buggy and has kick up which the other ofna buggies lack. This will help you in both bashing as well as racing. the mbx's are nothing more then the gtlx with Mugun shocks and a few other add on's.

as far as motors go i would go with the ofna picco sport this might be my next motor that are a rossi i saw on e-bay (both pullstarts) i had the RG and did not like it much it lacked it power well for me it did. if you can find an old os RX they will do just fine there hella fast and i have seen them on e-bay and very good prices

good luck and welcome to 1/8

[morfeeis]

for those that don't know i have a w2 and a ofna monster pirate

[dubbs22]

i have been working on my mbx for 2 days. i noticed that the suspension arm holders are a little flexible so i am having a friend who is a machinest make me a set from 7075-t6:D

[winning edge designs]

dubbs,you may be able to use the Mugen arm mounts,if anything i'm sure they'll fit with some dremel work?

BTW,my Hyper 7 has 8 degrees of "kick up" and comes with three sets of castor blocks,in different degrees as well.

I'll be racing it in our Fl state series this weekend,i'll post the results..........Jim

[dubbs22]

where's the race at .my budy does really nice work. if not i'll try the mugen or ofna's

[NITROntheBLOOD]

Hey acidpee how did ya make your rear diff a possi I would like to do that to my unltra mbx also

[winning edge designs]

dubbs,tha race is in Ocala sunday(O.R.C.C.C.),sat is practice......I won't be on to check the board until sunday night at the earliest,Jim

[morfeeis]

hey nitro i am not sure how he did it but my MP has a solid rear diff. this happened after the rear diff blew out so the guy that had it before me filled it with epoxy (lighter then cement and stronger) if u do this there is no way to go back short of buying a new diff

[TweakRacer]

Hi guys!
I've got dozens of all the latest and greatest in nitro on-road; but here's my first venture off-road. I've got a MP and a Worlds 2 (gotta love the $200 blow-out!). I'm in San Diego, so I'm lookin' for set-ups (for the Worlds 2; suspension choice, diff oils, shock oils/pistons, springs, suspension set-up, ride height, tires/inserts, brake bias [I couldn't fit the 4th rear brake], etc.) for Crystal Park Raceway, Hemet's Dirt, and (soon) SVM.

[dubbs22]

do you know of any other bodies that fit the mbx r2. my so called friend wanted to charge me a ton of cash [200] for those suspension arm holders it********upset me. so i went out and got my own milling machine. now i can make my own parts when i need them!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[PCC]

I fit a Pro-Line Crowd Pleazer body for the MP7.5 on my Ultra GT (same chassis, different suspension).

[winning edge designs]

Dubbs,as was posted the Prlone crowd pleazer bodies can fit,as well as the Hyper 7 body,which I think actually looks better then the PL bodies,imo. It will take a little "engineering" to make it happen though.
You got a milling machine,WOAH,how much did it set you back,i've been considering it myself.

AS far as the Ocala race I went to,we ended up taking to long thru the first round(almost 6 hours for 20 heats) and getting rained out before getting to gas in the 2nd round. We actually were the first classes on the track in the first round,but got shuffled back in case of rain for the second.They were right!......I ended up racing only 1 round of 1/8th scale and ended up qualifying 2nd,no mains.........I had gone to lighter front setup for more steering for the 2nd round too,car should have been much better on the tight 1/10th scale track. But we'll never know now,LOL......Jim

[Big Wig]

Has anyone replaced the diff gears in their MBX R2? When I bought my car I tore down the diffs and made sure they were shimmed right, then filled them up with silicone diff fluid. Well, with some hard running I still don't have much trouble smoking them so I'd like some harder gears.

I was told by a guy at my track that Ofna sells harder replacement gears... has anyone used these? How much would it cost me to do all 3 diffs? Is it worth it?

thanks
Jay

[dubbs22]

that milling machine set me back 1500 bucks

[winning edge designs]

Dubbs,thats not bad at all,fully manual,obviously. I've been looking into a fully auto cad mill and lathe,but you're looking at $80,000 and up each!.......:0,Jim

[Big Wig]

Whoa! Milling machine talk! You guys are speaking my language now!

[winning edge designs]

BigWig,i'm envious..........i'd be makin stuff all day if I had that around,LOL!..(no joke).

Is that beauty yours,or at work,which is almost as good if the boss is cool?.........Jim

[Big Wig]

winning edge designs,

It's mine... it's in my basement along with a 2 axis CNC mill, a manual mill, engine lathe and a Hardinge Chucker... and many other assorted goodies.

I like to make RC stuff in my spare time but I don't have much of that these days ;)

[winning edge designs]

New Hampshire is it?..........hmmm,that's a drive,hahaha.

I'd make time to bring something fresh to market,unlike most other companies,just making the same stuff everyone else has....Of course another problem is price control,some seem to have no need for much profit,while others are Very proud. Can you E mail me at,wedjim@cfl.rr.com. ...Jim

[TweakRacer]

Originally posted by TweakRacer
Hi guys!
I've got dozens of all the latest and greatest in nitro on-road; but here's my first venture off-road. I've got a MP and a Worlds 2 (gotta love the $200 blow-out!). I'm in San Diego, so I'm lookin' for set-ups (for the Worlds 2; suspension choice, diff oils, shock oils/pistons, springs, suspension set-up, ride height, tires/inserts, brake bias [I couldn't fit the 4th rear brake], etc.) for Crystal Park Raceway, Hemet's Dirt, and (soon) SVM.

???:confused:

[rcjon]

hi, anyone else think this message board is hard to browse? there are 800+ posts from us ofna buggy owners and its almost impossible to locate stuff. i think it should be broke up into sections. I have a ofna mbx. Its cool.

[rcjon]

Also does anyone know what body mounts I could use to put a Truck body on my mbx? Would I use blazzer sst body mounts?

And has anyone tried to put 2.2 rims on there mbx?

[mch]

Hi folks.
Got an MBX R2 for Christmas (what a wife!). So far it has been great fun.
Unfortunately, I didn't think to loctite the pull start mount screws when I got it and they vibrated out. I have been struggling with trying to re-assemble the pull start but as yet have not been able to. Hopefully one of you has the secret to this and will share it with a newbie like me. I have searched the board for an answer and didn't find one. I realize there probably is no secret but I thought I would ask before I pulled out what little hair I have left.
BTW the engine is a P4. I have run a qt. of Trinity 16% (thats all the LHS had day after chrstmas) through it and haven't really tried any tuning yet. I have since gotten some Blue Thunder 20% and will be switching to that. Just take it easy for a tank or so, right?
I have some diff oil(3000,5000,7000) and shock oil(30w,35w) coming so I will be going through those areas as soon as it arrives. Will it make a major difference in the handling or is it more subtle? The thing seems to handle pretty well out of the box so I am real interested in what is possible from it.
I have been reading this board for a while and y'all seem to be a good bunch and I have gotten a lot of good info. Thanks.

Later,
Matt

[mch]

Nevermind, I got it. I now know the pull start secret!! mwuuuuuhahahahaha!!! Actually it was persistence and a lot of luck. Coil the spring, attach to back of reel and cram it into housing without everything coming apart and putting your eye out, screw it to back of engine with loctite on screws. See it is easy! Actually I doubt I will ever be able to do that again and hopefully I will never have to.

Unfortunately it is now dark and 29 degrees outside. Oh well.

Matt

[winning edge designs]

Matt,sorry it took a while to get back and post. Those things are a bugger when the go B-O-I-N-G!!!.........:).

You found the tip,keep the re-coiled spring in check while feeding it back into the housing in reverse.I use needel nose to hold the flat in the center,1/2 way down,then slide it in after re-coiling it by hand........Tricky at the least!

I run the Hyper 7,but all 1/8th scales are very similar as far as diffs and shock oils!........You'll feel a BIG difference with the right oil in the shocks and diffs! I like 3k front,7k center and 1k rear. On high bite tracks I go to 5k front and 10k center.......Good luck,Jim

[Vmax911]

MCH-
Glad you got your buggy running. Just a comment on the shock oil. If the MBX has the same shocks as the GT LX (and I think they do), you may want to have some thicker oil. I was running 80 wt. in my shocks with the stock pistons. I have recently rebuilt them with Ofna O-ring pistons (seal much better) and 50 wt. oil. I haven't run this combination yet, but plan to when there's dirt out again (instead of snow). Good luck and have fun, 1/8th is a blast!

[mch]

vmax - I had already ordered the shock oil before I read this entire thread (whew!) and realized it was probably too thin. No big deal it has got to be better than the stock stuff. I'll be replacing the pistons soon enough and just go thicker then.

Thanks for the info, Matt

[bond2000]

I have a Worlds buggy and was wondering if it was out dated. thanks :)

[winning edge designs]

Bond,thats the beauty thing about racing cars,if ANY car meets your needs wether it's bashing or racing it isn't outdated. The only real factor is parts availability and parts are still available for the Worlds!.........Of course,if money is abundant a new car is always sweet!...............:),Jim

[mch]

Happy New Year!

I have run a little more than a qt. through my new MBX R2. I pulled the center diff apart this afternoon to investigate a tight spot I have noticed since I got it last week. Once I removed it from the buggy and spun it by hand it seemed tight and "notchy" to me. The front and rear diffs seem to spin considerably smoother.
I suspected a dry, loose gearset but found it to be greased but (too?) tight. I did notice a shim that I don't find in the manual. It was between the pin in the diff shaft and the o-ring on the diff shaft. When I re-assembled the diff the way I found it I could barely spin it with my fingers. I re-assembled it without the shim and it spins nice and smooth with no end to end play whatsoever. I am leaving it out unless someone here can convince me it should stay . It seems to me that the factory must have over shimmed this thing in response to the earlier issues with loose diffs.
How delicate is the O-ring that seals the two diff case halves? It looks like something you ought to keep a few around. I didn't even know they made 'em that thin.
One more question - How full do you fill the diffs with oil? The manual says 70%.

Thanks,
Matt

[winning edge designs]

Matt,some of the diffs seem to need the shim,others don't. Likely due to production tolerances,etc. I found that it needed to be run without the shim for the first two or three races and then rechecked. I added the shim after running in the parts it felt sweet.

I filled my diffs to the cross pin area,or just above. At first i tried overfilling,but fluid was forced out the grub screw when warming up the fluid during running.The O-rings are handy to have around and some silicone,like ultra Black from a parts store......,Jim

[SCOTTC]

ofna makes a body post kit you can buy,thats what i did whith mt gtlz...

[morfeeis]

hey rcjon i wish i could tell u where to find those rims . i have been looking for a pair myelf. i have seen one guy with them and he found them on e-bay if he leaves his doors ulocked i will have to take them form him LOL look out BT (EDIT)

[rcjon]

This guy named sabr sells them. Go here http://pub11.ezboard.com/frcmtnetworkmessageboardmtofnamonsterpirate.showMe ssage?topicID=4616.topic there only $80 for 4 and have offset

[BowtieZ72]

Hey Morph.. I guess I will have to keep my doors locked :D
I havent been doing much RC'ing. I need to take advantage of the snow and the Xmas present I got. I did take a friends T Maxx with me on my last trip snowmobiling, and I must say it went in the snow pretty damn good. I know, I know, No more T Maxx talk.
:D That is why I got rid of the 2 I had. I did get my new shock shafts yesterday for the Worlds 2, so I am ready to go tear up the neighborhood.

[MightyTaco]

Hey, you guys ever put kyosho springs on your worlds 2? I was looking at the kyosho blue springs wondering if they would fit and if they were harder or softer than our stock springs... they are suposed to be a soft spring, but i havent had a pair in my hand to determine if they are softer than the world stock ones.

[Rotorranch]

I have found on the MBX R2's here that they need one or two shims on the large bevel gears in the diffs. Like Winning Edge said, it seems to vary from diff to diff. Yours is the first one I have heard of coming from the factory with that shim installed.

Rotor

[gedertr]

I am looking for a good shock setup for my GTLX. I am having problems with the rear end kicking up badly on certain bumps and throwing me out of control.

I was looking at Kyosho front pistons 1.3 with associated 40 wt oil, Kyosho rear pistons 1.4 with 35 wt oil and ofna yellow springs all around.

Do any of you racers have good shock/spring set-ups for your GTLX/MBX??????????

[gedertr]

ttt

[winning edge designs]

gedertr,I would save your money on pistons and redrill the stock ones. you can purchase 1.3 and 1.4 mm drill bits,or #55-56,etc bits from any well stocked hardware store. Then use the oil that feels best,for instance in my Hyper7 I used a #56 bit and 30 wt oil all around. I also use the Ofna black springs all around,that come with the hyper 7 kit..........Jim

[gedertr]

Thank you. I will try this first. I like to order through Tower Hobbies. They sell the yellow and red ofna springs. Do you know which is stiffer?

[Nitro Power Kid]

For all you people, I have a World's 2 and got MIP springs to go with it. The techie guy at the shop recommended them and uses them on his Kyosho MP 7.5. They work really well but I don't know the part number... they're black though... and much stiffer...
Hope this helps
Oh yeah
I saw the ofna red/yellow springs at the shop and they both said the same thing on them and felt the same, so I went with the MIP's


:D:D:D Got Nitro? :D:D:D

[Vmax911]

The yellow are supposed to be a bit softer than stock, while the red are supposed to be a bit stiffer. I haven't tried either so I can't verify this.

[YZ167]

Hey guys i am new to this borad all though i have been reading it a little bit. But at any rate i have my Brand New Ofna MBX R2 sitting here. i put the susp and tires on tonight. I am going to be working alot this week but before i run it i just wanted to say the buggy looks very clean looking but how is this thing going to perform?
IT looks kinda heavy and the susp in the front looks like it sucks a little. I dunno this are just my opinions because i have a rc10gt as well but wanted to give 1/8 try and not spend to much money.I got a deal n a 1/2 on this getting it from ace for 180.00 =Þ
So let me know anything i should do before i drop an engine in and run it. I usual always go non pull start but i dont want to spend that much money yet any of you know if the kit comes set up for non pull or pull because i am going to get a pull start engine soon when i aint working.
Also how much touqe do i need to turn this wheels up front. I always wanted to get tose nice servos with 150-200 oz of tourqe. But how would 70-100 do? I found not badly priced servos with 100 oz of tourqe for 30.00 with .20 for speed. or 130 tq and .27 for speed for 33.00 as well LMK what u think i know they aint fast but they dont cost that much and until i know how much i am going to use i dont want to spend alot money as you cans see. Sorry for such a long post and i hope to get lots or replys back all INFO is helpfull
Thanks guys,
Jacob

[YZ167]

Anyone alive? Well i am planning on buying a Ofna Hpyer .21 pull start soon as well as a airtronics servo with 200 oz of tourqe. Does the buggy come set up for a non pull start engine or pull start. Come back all OFNA racers, you guys there or.....
Cya soon i hope
Jacob

[morfeeis]

i am here but most of the time i am at my home base RCCB (click my home pasge to see more info)

[Lost Racer1]

guess who's back..:D

[morfeeis]

hey LR what happen to your name?

[Lost Racer1]

when they ported the board over, they never sent me a confirmation code to re-activate my original account. I talk to SteveP and sent a eyeful of emails to the webmaster and SteveP, with no response. Well let me clarify, Steve walked me through some steps that I had already done. So I had to do a new one. :( oh well.

[phatcat]

i was going to buy a gs racing storm rtr but then i saw the ofna hyper 7 rtr in a review in rcca. i am really impressed with the hyper 7's ratings it got 4 very goods, the gs only got 3 verygoods and 1 good. do any of you guys own a hyper 7 rtr? how is it? should i get one instead of the gs racing storm? thanx

[Lost Racer1]

phatcat- I have a Hyper 7 Pro. The buggy is outstanding!!! I've never owned a GS Storm so I can't give you a fair comparison between the 2. But I can tell you this. A friend of mine that works at a hobbystore owned a gs storm pro. he bought a hyper 7 pro at a good deal. the NEXT day he posted his gs after running his Ofna. Nuff said :D ..i upgraded from an Ultra Worlds 2 by Ofna, also a good buggy. Differences between the pro and rtr hyper 7's other than rtr being concerned I belive is the carbon fiber pieces are substituted for the purple aluminum on the rtr. And the pro comes with black aluminum.

[winning edge designs]

phatcat, I have seen the GS cars in race trim,but haven't owned one. The few in this area are VERY rarely finishing races. Could be due to owner/operator error,but seems like weak bulkheads and molded parts,etc. I think the Hyper7 is the best bang for the buck available right now!................Jim

[winning edge designs]

One other thing though,A friend of mine just bought a fresh body for his Hyper 7.....The thing retailed for $45!!!!.....a BIT PRICEY for replacement body?....Jim,again.:).

[biglipps66]

Hey guys....

My Ofna P4 stocker runs quite nice... It came with my GT LX buggy.

Ive read ALOT about the Hyper 21......... Do you think it would be a good upgrade for me? I CRAVE speed.. i recently installed a 2 speed tranny, and my car is a SPEED DEMON hehe... but i like the new Hyper. And i figured i could get some money for my P4. Actually my bro was going to buy it and put it on a Ofna MP.

Suggestions! Sell the motor to bro and buy hyper :)???

[Dirt Racer]

Im back into 1/8 scale... again. I recently bought a Ultra Worlds 2 with RB power. Is there anywhere to race near San Diego other than Hemet? Back yard tracks, Guys running together, anything?

thanks

[Siro]

Hi there, i'm really abit stuck atm..... please look at my thread i posted in the nitro forum, its about the Ultra Worlds II

You can find the thread here (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=484473&t=4567)

Please if you can answer both the first and second posts i made.
thanks

[winning edge designs]

BL66,the Hyper .21 is a very powerful entry level engine,but if you're used to Serious Racing Engines it is not powerful at all. So basically it depends on what you realistically expect......If you've never owned an Italian engine,you probably won't be dissapointed!...:)....If you can swing it,the Picco 0-1 is a VERY strong engine,under $250!,probably the fastest under that price range,IMO....Jim

[biglipps66]

WED......... I have never owned anything over my stock Ofna P4.. I have mastered the tuning of that engine pretty much. I AM looking for something with MAD power... but the only thing that drives me away from the stronger engines is the pull start. Can you put a pull start on any engine :confused: Or only the ones that CAN accept them? I drive my car all over the place, and the last thing i want is a starter box to carry down the street with me you know.. I dont stand in one spot, i always move around. My engine doesnt ever stall on me (except when they run out of gas and i say Whoooooooops!! hehe), but i cant seem to like the starter box idea.

Although i did see 2.7bhp@43,000rpms and i was like "" :eek: WOA!! ""

[winning edge designs]

biglips,that will make for a small problem. As far as big HP engines go,no pullstarts. The high power engines just have too much compression and very tight clearances,etc. My starter box had trouble turning over my C4 when it was new. And i'm using the big motor type,way more torque then the twin 550 style boxes!......A pullstart just won't cut it at that level,kind of like pullstarting a CR250 honda?
As far as adding a pullstart,the crank and backing plate are special for pullstarts. So that wouldn't work,if the cord could handle it.

If you have to have the pullstart you can get decent power from the O.S. RG or the hyper .21........Jim

[biglipps66]

I think for now i will stick with a pullstart.. im just a backyard racer for now.. so im not worried about insane speed yet.

[MightyTaco]

Have you guys upgraded your W2 with any stock 9.5 parts? The new wing mounts and steering knuckls look pretty choice.

Another thing, anyone else have problems strippin out your front hubs? I keep ripping the screws right out of the aluminum!! I wonder if the knuckles from a kyosho 7.5 will fit. Anyone ever try?

Also, waterproof your electronics and take your buggy out on the hardpacked snow if you have it.. I was racing around with some friends on some hard snow/ice and it was a blast!! The stock W2 tires hooked up quite nicely.... A snow rally would be awesome!!

[PITSTAIN RC]

Heres a sneak peek of my 9.5 Pro

http://www.networktechniques.com/pitstain/images/95/DSC00049.JPG

http://www.networktechniques.com/pitstain/images/95/DSC00021.JPG

[Vmax911]

Hey Ofna Guys:

I recently decided to upgrade to an MBX2. However, the thing is almost exaclty the same as my GT LX. So I took some pieces that I need, and have a ton of brand new pieces left over (Chassis parts, shocks, pipe/header, carrying case, mounts, all three diffs and housings, bones, etc.) Let me know if you guys are looking for any spare parts. Please send me a PM so I don't clog up this thread any more than I have. :eek:

More on topic, do any of you guys drive these things in the snow? I'm dying to run my buggy, but it's so cold outside!

[biglipps66]

Bah.. Drive it in the snow. I drive mine in the snow!! Just watch electronics of course thats all. Ive driven my buggy in the rain, through sand and thick/slimy mud, and in the snow. Cant beat an AWD buggy hehe. Especially ones that have Torsen diffs!:D Those will be my next "buys"...

And ive heard to make sure the cooling head is not cold, or it could break the engine.

[eman88]

some one posted the item number for the flathead screws and concave washers so so the engine mount screws are flush on the bottom of the chassis.
Does anyone know what this number was?

And what shock oil do you guys recomend?
I have read 80 weight. This seems high but i dont know


Thanks

[Lost Racer1]

the model number is within these 23 pages somwhere? :D sorry..as far as shock oil goes. What pistons are you using? IF you're still running the stock pistons, I'd suggest getting the O-ring sealed ones.. the stock ones holes are much to large hence the thicker oil to accomodate..I'll see if I can find you that model number too.

Part #10111 Found it on page 14 :D I knew I had it there somewhere...;)

[Kamakazi]

I've broken my wing on my MBX, everyone I have check with has the Ofna wings backordered. Anyone on here have any experience using wings from other buggies and if so what brands? Are they anymore durable? It seems the Ofna wings don't like to be smacked around very much.

[eman88]

Thanks a ton for that part number. I found it once, then when i tried to find it again i searched pages 1-12 with no luck.

My stock wing cracked on both sides, when i hit a curb at WOT. I epoxied it and put a piece of lexan on the outside so hold it together. So far its sticking together.
Do you guys recomend CVDs if I will be jumping my ultra gt lx?
Thanks a ton
this post has been really informative, even though it took a few hours to read through. hehe

[eman88]

i found this on nitrohouse on the parts list.

10111 SCREW 5mm, ENGINE MOUNTS, SPECIAL 4 PCS 8.50


Is that the screws i want? Are they large enough to secure the engine, but small enough that they wont stick out of the chassis?

[Lost Racer1]

thats it eman.

Kamakazi- Try the thunder Tiger wing, I ran that for awile and it lasted much longer than the Ofna one. The main problem most a lot of people were complain about the wing mounts. Just be careful with those and you'll be fine.

FYI- I was Lost Racer...in pthe previous posts througout this thread.

[eman88]

so should i get these pistons

32039 O RING PISTONS, 4 PCS. 3.95
?
with maybe 45 weight shock oil all around?

[Lost Racer1]

the pistons yes. as far as shock oil goes..Its hard to recommend anything without running on your surface..Get like 45 or 50, and tune your suspension from there. You should be able to notice which way you need to go with the viscosity. If you're running at a track, find out what the other racers are you using. If you're just bashing in parks and stuff, it really doesn't matter too much..

[eman88]

ok thanks. i'm just bashing onroad, on grass, and jumping, probably about 6 feet off the ground.

I have read that the stock axles bend when i jump it. Is this true?

[MightyTaco]

only one way to find out.... :D

From personal experience though i havent bent one yet.

[Lost Racer1]

takes quite a bit to bend those axles..If you're running onroad use thicker shock oil to help stiffen your suspension. and maybe lower it a little so you don't roll too much..

[eman88]

so i think i will get these

32039 O RING PISTONS, 4 PCS. 3.95

and around 50 weight shock oil.

ok so i wont worry about bending axles on my ultra gt lx rtr


is this
10111 SCREW 5mm, ENGINE MOUNTS, SPECIAL 4 PCS 8.50
a different engine mount with different screws?
or just different screws?
thanks
you guys have been a huge help!

[Kamakazi]

Thanks for the info. Just happened to be a my LHS (yeah right). But bought a set of thunder tiger wings, seem to be more flexible than the Ofna's. Only $9.00 too. Just have to drill the holes in the right place.

[CBlakeNS]

Ok I have a MBX rtr and its stock... welll here is my prob.. Ok this is the prob--I drove it all around earlier and then I went to start it agian--Wouldnt fire so I put a new glow plug in re set the settings and did all that good stuff... Well when I went to prime it I put my finger over the pipe and pulled the pull start and no gas came up the line to the carb?? and i did it a couple of times and no gas is coming up--I was thinking it could be an air leak?? Anything else!! Thanks guys.

Blake

[Lost Racer1]

try changing your fuel line first.. how was the engine running before? Lean, rich? Are you checking your temps? Make sure your lines are attached as well, sometimes they can inadvertantly come off. Good luck

[eman88]

that happened to me. i couldnt prime the engine. i never found out why. i took it to the lhs and he primed it right away. i was wondering why it happened. I did find a gouge in the air line which i replaced. It didnt go all the way through though


do any of you guys know if this
10111 SCREW 5mm, ENGINE MOUNTS, SPECIAL 4 PCS 8.50
is a different engine mount with different screws?
or just different screws?
and could i just get flat head screws at the hardwear( arggg i cant spell today) store?
thanks

[Lost Racer1]

those screws are flathead with concave washers. However they will stick out about a millimeter beyond the chassis. At least mine did. And becareful tightening them. DO NOT OVERTORQUE!! You will be cutting slots in them later if you do. That price doesn't look like mounts , I think those are just screws. You can probably find them in a hardware store, but you'd have to look really well for the specific sizes. Or buy some that come close and cut them down to size. Just get the ofna ones. They work VERY well.
:D

[Vmax911]

Eman-

I went to the hardware store and bought some "counter-sunk" tpye screws. Basically, they just have a tapered head. Anyway, it cost less than a buck and has worked fine for me. Just look in your manual and wee what size screws they are, then just buy the same size.

[eman88]

ok thanks. i think i will just look at the hardwear (i keep forgetting how to spell that word!!!) store for the same size screws. In RCCA(the magizine) they said that those screws can be replaced with flat head screws, and concave washers.
i think 8 or 9 bucks is a little steep for 4 screws
thanks for all the help. i was just afraid because the heads of the screws are getting scraped up.

hehe im too cheap to spend that much for screws

[Vmax911]

hehe im too cheap to spend that much for screws

I hear ya', $8.50 +S&H is pretty pricey.

[nitro lover]

I have an MBX R2. Do parts from Mugens MBX models fit the ofna model? That would be cool, then I wouldn't have to worry about weather or not it was OFNA's week to provide customer service.

[Vmax911]

Sorry, but that won't work.

What do you need customer service for anyway, you've got us!? :D

[Lost Racer1]

Originally posted by Vmax911
Sorry, but that won't work.

What do you need customer service for anyway, you've got us!? :D

:D And 23 pages of answers :D

[nitro lover]

Thanks for the support! I guess I know where to look from know on. It is to bad there are so many threads to look through though.

[Lost Racer1]

I know there are a lot of pages. And I've had to go back through to find things as well. But if you're using Internet Exploder (no spelling error) there is a find feature you can use on each page to search out what you're looking for. Under the Edit feature at the top the is a find command. Go to one of the pages and put in a line or word or whatever you may be looking for that relates to the info you need. Trust me it works. :D I've used it numerous times. This also helps to eliminate duplicate posts.

[Lost Racer1]

The pillowballs from the Mugen MBX 4 should fit. As a matter of fact they fit better than Ofnas.I put the ofna ones on and my CVAs would pop out when I was on power and made a sharp turn. I put the mugen ones on and had no more problems. Now, this was on a Worlds 2. Not an MBX. But it looks like they use the same parts parts for that. You might want to cross reference some part numbers to be positive..

[nitro lover]

Thanks for the info! The people, or should I say kids, at the Mugen post weren't as friendly. Where do I find this Internet Exploder? Do you think the Mugen cvd's and universals would work? Maybe there are a lot more Ofna parts out there than I realize? It just scares me when I have used my pirate 10 like 6 times, have broken parts 2 separate times, and have been waiting almost 4 weeks for the last one I broke. All because apparently they didn't release the new parts for the new truck when they released the truck months ago. I don't want this to happen with my ultra once summer roles around. At least the weather has been to cold for my wimpy bones anyway.

[MotoMaxx]

I had a chance to check one of these out yesterday, Man what a nice car. Everything looks to be real high quality and it looks as if nothing was added that didn't have some reflection on on-track performance. THe gas tank is a real improvement from the Hyper7 and the receiver box was especially nice. Hong-Nor really did a good job on this one. I think Ofna is really putting the pressure on Mugen and especially on Kyosho. The only drawback I can see is the Directions, I've heard they are a little hard to follow, but experienced builders should have little or no problem there. I cannot wait to see how it performs on the track.

[Lost Racer1]

Yeah..I saw the answer you got in the Mugen thread..I had to hold my tongue on that one.. Internet Exploder=Internet Explorer:D I haven't seen too much of the Pirate 10 truck..Especially parts..I've only seen them available through mail order..Ho Bao makes that don't they? Try ordering through www.nitrohouse.com You'd want to call them, they're website doesn't do them justice.

[nitro lover]

Thanks! I'll give them a call. I have my MBX R2 just as it came out of the box, except that the shocks and tires are on. When I turn the wheels from lock to lock, they seem to be a little tighter coming off one side than the other. Not real tight just not quite as easy as the other side. Is there any reason for alarm? A high torque servo shouldn't have any trouble, right? Also, should I put a high end engine in it? I was even thinking a modified. Will the buggy handle it? Will I be able to handle it? I am just getting back into rc. I wasn't the greatest driver before. I figure I can always drive slow until my skills get better instead of buying one $200 engine and then a while later buying another $350 engine. What do you think? Any engine recommendations?

[Lost Racer1]

FIrst- Your steering is binding..check the pillowball tightness.They should be able to move freely. A high torque servo would work, but you'd be draining your batts a lot quicker. Try this..the 2 screws or large head set screws(whatever they're called) that hold the PB's in place, tighten them down all the way and loosen them from there maybe a 1/4 turn at a time. until you feel no slop but free movement. then you should be ok.

Two- As for engines, if you don't trust your driving enough yet fr a high end motor, get something like the hyper21. Thats suppose to be a pretty good starter. And they run for about $120 or so..Then when you get comfortable move up. Have fun!!!

[eman88]

i have a ultra gt lx rtr. recently the front wheels have started to wobble a LOT. they are shaking a ton. i cant figure out whats wrong. i havent hit anything. the wheel nuts are tight. What else could cause this?

[SCOTTC]

bad bearings??
loose set screw on out side drive hub?

[Lost Racer1]

I'd check the bearings, they're probably bad..make sure all of your screws are tight first so there is no slop. So you can be certain..

[nitro lover]

I do have a hyper 21 in my pirate 10. I was thinking that since I am waiting for parts for that, I might as well put the engine in my buggy and see what I think. I'll let you know what I decide to go with for an engine after I run it like that. You were right, the srews for the pillow blocks were a little tight. Thanks. Now for another question. Can I take the differentials out of the gear boxes without taking everything apart? Also, are the upper front suspension arms suppose to be loose on the upper arm shaft? I noticed the lower arms don't have as much side to side play in them as the uppers. Or are the shocks holding the lowers somewhat in place? Do they make cvd's for the rear of the buggy? What about universals instead of dog bones for the drive shafts from the center diff?

[Lost Racer1]

You can switch out the rear dogbones for cvds, the same ones as in the front..
Now for the diffs.. undo one side of the shocks to give your suspension some play. Then unscrew the four screws at the front of the gear box. and the 2 screws on the bottom and it should come out one side at a time.

[eman88]

i tightened up all my set screws, then i noticed that the wheel still wobbles a lot. i guess it is the bearing. Does the bearing need to be replaced, or cleaned? will i do any harm if i run it like this?
thanks

[SCOTTC]

replace the bearing and dont run it with bad bearings they will make the axles egg shaped and tear up the hub carreir..

[spowell940]

Just got a new MBX (First R/C endevour) and I'm about 3 thanks into the break-in. The question I have is the Rear Lower Arms aren't hardly level to the ground. The clearance is about 1/2 inch. If I make the level it is about 1 1/4 inches. Is this normal? Will the car rise when under power?

[SCOTTC]

you should have gotten some shock spacers with the car ,put them on the shocks and it will rais it up and stiffen the suspension up a little

[spowell940]

Thanks. Was wondering if that was going to do it. One thing I didn't think I'd be doing was cutting out the body to make it fit on the car. None of the RTR things I saw said anything about that. Usually you see "add fuel, batteries and go". Don't want to be a baby about this, but stuff isn't lining up, plus it is hardly something I'm good at nor equipped with the correct scissors and exacto knives, etc. Are all RTR like this? Do I cut out the windshield and side windows? Anything special round the engine? There is no indication of a cut-out near the engine.

[Lost Racer1]

Before you start painting you want to mark your holes, such as Mounting posts, the hole where the engine head will come through, and one above your fuel tank so your engine can get air and you can refuel easily..The rason the holes probably don't line up is because that body accomodate something like 3 ofna buggies..The GTLX bein the main one..But you can cut it to fit just about any of them. ..Good luck.:D

[slayers]

Hello,

I just got my MBX RTR from my boss (thanks boss :) )
Until now, I didn;t run the car yet. Is the mbx good quality and how about the durability ?
because I am new entry in 1/8 scale.
And what can I do for running this car without damage ? because I read the other post that says the gears are soft, etc, etc.
Any suggestion would be appreciated
:)

[spowell940]

I was thinking perhaps the body was for several different OFNA cars. Was is the best way to drill holes in the body? Can the plastic be patched/glued?

[Kamakazi]

spowell940
The first time I tried to trim a body as the instructions said to do it, was a nightmare, the force required to get a razor blade or exacto blade through this plastic will result in very serious cuts and stitches. The best way I have found is to use straight trim scissors (about $10.00 at the LHS) to cut within about 1/8" of the trim line, and then take a Dremel Tool with the Sanding drum and sand it to the line, works very well (Hopefully you have one, if not it's a great investment). you'll have to go back and debur the plastic after you're done. Holes for the motor and fuel tank can be done the same way, but you'll have to drill a hole first. In my opinion 1/8 buggy bodies are the most complex to trim due to all the corners and stuff.

[spowell940]

Yeah, I thought I'd take of a fingertip as well. I have a Dremel so I'll use that to finish off what I've started. Sort of butchered the holes for the post but I think it will work. I'll use the Dremel to cut the tank and glow plug holes. Do I cut out a big area around the engine or does enough air come in the front? Should I cut out all four windows? When I was using the exacto, I got a bit out of control and now I'm wondering how to patch Lexan. Will CA glue it back together?

On another subjet. I'm getting it ready for action. Was breaking it in in a parking lot a 1/4 throttle and somehow th e-clip on Rear Toe-In Cam came lose and then the cam fell out, never to be found my me. Luckily I spotted it and stopped running. Any ideas on the part number. Been through the manual 3-4 times and have found the picture but no #.

[Kamakazi]

On my MBX the cylinderhead sticks through the body so i had to make a big hole for it. I also cut out a hole in the front windsheild so I can fill the tank with the body on, it also allows air in to cool your engine. In my manual the rear toe in cam part number is #30351, you'll have to see if the number's any good as I have never had to buy one. I don't have any good ideas on how to patch the body, although if the cuts aren't too deep I wouldn't worry about them. Think about getting a body reamer sometime, they're kind of expensive for what they are ($20.00), but they make cutting body post holes and the holes to get to the engine mixture screws a heck of a lot easier.

You can never have enough tools:)

[spowell940]

Thanks. I'll be adding tools over time. Getting them all at once is like buying two cars. Are temp gauges a must have?

[Kamakazi]

The spit methods works pretty good. I have a Raytech temp gauge but it's hard to get an accurate reading, you have to move it around the glow plug area and take and average, or look for the high reading, but most of the time I use the spit method. If your spit will sit on the head for 3-4 seconds before disappearing then you're all right, If it sizzles off and burns your finger it's too lean. The MIP onboard gauge works pretty good, a friend of mine has one, very convient all you have to do is look, but it's definitely not cheap. By the way don't spit on your cylinder head, just moisten your finger and wipe it on.:) I think you'll have fun with your buggy once you get everything working right. I've got a ramp that I built thats about 20" high and I have been practicing launching my buggy off of it, I can get it to land 10 to 15 feet away and be 4-5 feet off the ground, only things broken so far are one wing and one turnbuckle. Takes some pratice to learn to control the attitude of the buggy, but it's a must have skill if you want to race.

[Vmax911]

Wow guys, I don't log on for a few days and you all go crazy with new posts! :D

Emann:
Which wheels are wobbling? If it's the rear you could have bent dogbones, that caused mine to wobble?!

[eman88]

vmaxx- the front wheels are wobbleing. so i shouldnt run with the bearings like this? Are they totally shot, or can i clean them out and have them work again.
I wont be running my gt lx for a while because the engine seized after less than a gallon. the engine wasnt even lean at all. it was rich if anything. my dad is calling ofna today about this.

[Draxx]

Hey gang... I made the plunge to 1/8th scale and bought an MBX r2.Quite a change from my 1/10th Losi GTX.

I will tell you, my first reaction upon opening the box...this thing is big!!One look at the tires and I was stoked.
My second reaction was something to the effect of "now what?". I know I need to loctite all the metal to metal connections, and can only make educated guesses based on the "instructions" on where to start.I assume it wouldnt hurt to pull the diffs and see if they are lubed(or fill them with silicone). Then finish building the beast.

I am going to read as many of the earlier posts as I can(quite a prolific board), but I would imagine stupid question will be coming from any time now.:p

[winning edge designs]

Kamakzi,spowell,I trim ALOT of bodies out each week(obviously) and I can tell you it takes some practice and patience to trim with an Exacto. It isn't necassery to cut "thru" the material,only to score a decent line into the surface. Once you've cut a line on your desired edge,you can flex the material and "peel" it off. I also cut the access holes in the body with the exacto. Simply trace a deep score in the body around the area you wish to remove. then use a dremel or body reamer to put a few holes at the edges of the cut out marks. Push or flex the lexan with your fingers and it will also peel out,but does take a little more effort then the body egdes do. Use more small holes around the edges if needed and clean up the edges with a dremel afterwards.

Eman88,if the bearings have worn enough to gain clearance,they'll need replacement. A slight gritty feel can be the start of bearing destruction,so it's important to clean and re lube bearings after any sandy or muddy running.


Draxx,the RTR kits comes with grease in the diffs,which will work for messin' around,but if your going to race the car,you'll want to use silicone diff oils. Usually 3-5000 front,7-10000 center and 1000 rear. Depending on track conditions. The more bite there is the heavier the diff fluid will need to be.....Most tracks will be 5000ft,7000center and 1000 rear. Use 3000 up front if you think you'd like more turn-in steering...................Jim

[Lost Racer1]

no such thing as stupid questions here :D Ask anything, just about:D

[Draxx]

Thanks...by the way, I got the 80 % built and bought the P4 engine separatly.Ace cut me alittle deal buying them together.
I did take out the rear diff to look at it and it was well lubed and seemed very tight.I know there has been some disscussion about needing shims.I assume I want to clean out the factory grease before adding Diff Fluid.

[Draxx]

Speaking of fluid.... anyone have a guess on the thickness of the stock shock oil??? It seems a tad thin. Just trying to find a good starting place.

[Lost Racer1]

depends on the type of suspension you want..If you plan on running mainly on concrete use thicker oil. If you're running offroad go lighter..You can start at about 50 and play with it from there.. It really depends on where you're running though.

[DaveU]

Just finished it last Sunday night. I was very happy how it went together, everything fit and went just as the instructions said. This is my first 1/8 gas car, besides a RC500 about 13 years ago ;-). Just sorry I didn't take any pictures before running it, but I was too anxious to see how it ran!
After some breakin time, I got a chance and can’t believe how well it handled and the breaks are amazing!
The only thing you see here that did not come in the box is the motor and the blue fuel lines.

I haven’t had it to the track yet, maybe tomorrow.

http://www.rebelann.com/images/9.5front.jpg

http://www.rebelann.com/images/9.5topright.jpg

http://www.rebelann.com/images/9.5topleft.jpg

http://www.rebelann.com/images/9.5lrightrear.jpg

http://www.rebelann.com/images/9.5leftrear.jpg

[NitroRookie]

What did the buggy come with in the box. Or what did you have to buy that didn't come with the buggy.

[DaveU]

It came with everything in the picture but the motor & blue fuel lines. The carbon fiber parts, polished pipe, tires & wheels, etc. were in the box.

Dave

[Draxx]

Hey gang, am alittle stuck and could use an answer... I put together my MBX r2 and have the Force engine installed. As soon as I pull the start cord, the crankshaft locks up. I have pulled the engine and figured out it has to do with the
flywheel installation.The instructions seemed to imply that I use the thick cast aluminum washer
(look like a prop washer) beind the flywheel.
When I tighten the clutch nut and put the bell on,
it apprears this thick washer binds against the front of the engine, locking it up.Any thoughts or help?? Thanks.

[Draxx]

Disregard the above message, I figured it out...3rd times a charm. I will say I am suprised how easily the Force fired up.About 3 pulls on initial start up. Now I just to break it in...much louder than a .12..I like it!!

[slayers]

Hello all,

I try to break in my force P4 engine. Fire up was so easy. Only 2-3 pull and go. I open master needle for 3 turns.
I have a question :
Is the force 21 sound very loud ? I didn't touch the throttle and clutch didn't engage. Is it normal for the sound ?

I have idle for 2 tanks. And when I checked the flywheel (turn by pullstart) it seems flywheel and clutch bell is moving left-right a little. Any idea about this ?

Thank you very much

[rrip20]

I got a set of MP cvd's and put them on the back of my GT LX but they seem to long. Are the MP arms longer than a GT lx. I thought the cvds were all the same.

[Draxx]

I also have a question ...I managed my first wreck and didnt mess around when I did it.I hit a pole(what was a pole doing there?) and broke my front suspension arm and tweaked the shock tower.I can replace the shock tower, but cant figure out how to get the broken arm off the
"pillow ball". I took out the large adjusting nut,
but can figure out how to get the arm to unscrew from the ball.Any sugestions?

[winning edge designs]

Draxx,there should be a large allen key in the kit box,that fits the hex end inside the balls outer edge. If not you'll need to pick up the right size tool at the LHS or hardware store. If the part is broken,then you'll need a new one and some good pliers to twist it out of the arms end like a screw........You should see threads around the part in the arm itself and it may be Very tight!. Take a good look at your chassis bottom also,they usually bend in very hard wrecks with poles,trees and cars :)........Jim

[Draxx]

Thanks Jim, I got it figured out. The arms took the brunt of it as well as the lower suspension rod and shock tower. The chassis looks fine, luckily.The parts are on order from Ace. Although it is embarrising to say it, I just learned my "throttle return spring" lesson.I had one on my
Losi, but hadnt put one on here yet as I was finishing engine break in still. Luckily I had
about 4 rich tanks through in before it went WOT so hopefully there was no engine damage.

Guess it is time for a spring or rubber band around the throttle.:rolleyes:

[slayers]

hello,

anyone can answer my problem above ? until now I'm affraid to run the engine now. The compression still good and easy to start
But the flywheel are wobbling left-right.

Thank you very much

[Draxx]

Slayers, as you can tell from my tale of woe above, Iam not exactly "Ace Buggy Guy", but I will take a couple stabs at it...

Is it possible your clutch nut is loose?? Or perhaps not seated on the brass cone firmly?

Do the clutch shoes engage the clucth bell when
you gas it alittle?

[slayers]

Thank you for reply,

Yes the clutch still engage properly when I push throttle a little.

When engine running, I didn't notice any wobbling. But when the engine stops and cold, I try to turn the flywheel by using pullstart and seems flywheel and clutch bell are wobbling left-right a little together.
I am affraid if crank is bind. But the engine still running good yet.

Draxx, is your p4 engine sound very loud ? mine is very loud (3 turns needle for break in) , but the clutch didn't engage, so I assume the rpm still low... is it right ?
Thanks :)

[Draxx]

Well, yes it is loud.At least compared to the .12 engine in my GTX.I also started breaking in at about 3 turns out on the high speed needle and flush with the brass base with the low end neddle on the side of the carburater.

[slayers]

Draxx,

If the clutch didn't engage when engine running, the rpm still low right ? Only when I push throttle a little, the clutch engage.
because I'm affraid of running high rpm when breakin in.
I have .15 engine and compared to force 21 is very noisy.

Also, your flywheel is in center position (no wobbling) when you slowly turn it with pullstart without glowplug ?

Thank you :D

[Draxx]

You want the engine to idle without the clutch shoes engaging.When you give it some gas and increase the rpm, the clutch shoes should engage
and the car move.Start the engine and give it
alittle gas...see if the shoes emgage.

This is my first .21 car, but I have run my .12 powered car with people with .21's and .21 engines are much louder.

As far as wobble goes, I havent noticed any wobble in my flywheel/or clutch bell when I pull start it.

[slayers]

I try to give a throttle up a little. and the clutch was engage and run.
So I think there's no problem with clutch. May be the crankshaft is bind ? :( or the bearing inside the engine is bad ?
:confused:

[Lost Racer1]

slayers, try taking off the clutch assembly to see if the shaft is straight. Does it leak oil from the front at all? Liek Draxx mention, check to make sure the flywheel is all the way on the brass cone after you've tightened the clutch down.

[slayers]

Lost Racer,
I looking around the front of flywheel, and there's no oil leak from there.
Also I try to spin clutch bell with spinning the spur gear, it seems ok and no wobbling.
But when I try to spin flywheel, it seems clutch bell and flywheel are wobling together but only a little. :(
Should I taking off clutch bell and flywheel ? and see what happen to crankshaft ?
My engine still new, only 2 tanks run for break in...

[Lost Racer1]

when all else fails..start from the beginning. Take them off and see if anything looks unusual..Does the clutchbell spin freely from the flywheel? Take them off and inspect the shaft..then put them back on and keep an eye on how they go on.. My friends shaft warped on his new MT 12 about 5 tanks in..So it is possible..

[slayers]

I checked the clutch bell, and it spin freely.
I don't know what happens, and this is a RTR version.
May be I should take off the clutch bell (like you said) and see what happens to the shaft. :(
Also, I remember for before I started the engine at first time. Seems the flywheel and clutch bell didn't wobbling. Just after I ran for 2 tanks, it began wobbling..

[Lost Racer1]

maybe your clutch nut loosened a little? Yeah take it off and check to be certain. Remember how you do it so you can put it back the same way...

[slayers]

My friend and me was stripped the piston while take off the clutch screw... :( :( :mad: so the engine is damaged now. From now, I must use special tools (pulley-puller) to remove flywheel.
I think about purchase new engine.
What are your suggestion for bashing purpose below $150 ?
I look at ace sell OS 21 RG for $ 139 (pullstart) and RB Concept 1003-Ce at same price.
Or may be another engine suggestion ? I just need great durability engine
Thank you.....

[Draxx]

If I understand you correectly, you stripped the threads on the crankshaft(which my have been bent). You can buy a new crankshaft for less than $30.00 I believe from Ace-hobbies.Part # 52081.

That is alot cheaper than a new motor(and your motor is basically new).If you are not comfortable changing the crank, perhaps a local r/c shop could do it for a small fee. Just a thought.

[slayers]

Draxx,

When I checked my engine again, piston is damaged. And I think I must replace my piston and sleeve together.
I think to buy new engine also piston kit for p4.
What do you think about Hyper 21, OS 21 RG or RB 21 Econo ?
What your suggestion Draxx, LostRacer ? :D
Thank you..

[Lost Racer1]

Can't go wrong with RB. IMO

[Draxx]

As .21's go, I dont have an opinion, this is my first. I like the O.S. products in the small block
engine.If Lost Racer has a suggestion, his might be better.

[10PM TYRANT]

hey guys check out what just showed up for my 9.5 pro

http://www.networktechniques.com/pitstain/images/95/DSC00135.JPG

[eman88]

what are you going to do with all those wings and other stuff??

[10PM TYRANT]

im gonna pimp em at the hobby shop

[Lost Racer1]

I've run, RB, and Ofna Force engines. I haven't expericed an OS yet. My friend loves his OS RZB. I've owned about 3 RB's from the lowest to the almost top. And have enjoyed them all..go with what what your familiar with

[Draxx]

Just wondering, I have noticed looking at parts lists for the MBX, that it shares most parts with
the Monster Blazer.Aside from the obvious large
wheels/tires and I assume body posts, what are the differences? I may consider switching my biggy over at some point.

[Vmax911]

Draxx, I think that's about it. The suspension/chassis are the same!

[Draxx]

That would make it preety simple to swap over than.Cool.

[Vmax911]

lets see...

[Vmax911]

I found these two pics from an auction page. It looks like the suspension is the same as a GT LX, whick is an MBX minus the pivot ball suspension.

[Draxx]

There you go...I cant find the part# for the Blazer body mounts,but that is no biggie to find.
Put some of the new mt3 rims and maxx rubber and maybe lower the gear ratio and you have a monster truck.I may do it eventually.I still dont have even an hour running on my buggy yet(still waiting on an upper front suspension arm and "screw bag" from Ace).

[Dirt Racer]

I used 1/2" Alum angle and standard body mounts. The angle is bolted to the shock bolts. Check out the pics...

[Draxx]

I was thinking of the long body posts by RPM for the t-maxx. I am sure something simple could be rigged up.

[Draxx]

I see that Ofna sell "red" and "yellow" springs sets.Which are firmer than the stock silver springs and which are the firmest? If anyone knows.

[Lost Racer1]

red-firm yellow-soft, silver may bbe the softest..Mine didn't last long enough for me to find out.:).

[tarvymoto]

Maybe you guys can help me decide on which to get : H7 Pro or 9.5 Pro. I'm in stuck trying to pick which one to get. I'll be using it primarily to race at local tracks , so I'd like the one that is most competitive out of the box. I read alot about the H7 Pro and it seems to be a worhty choice but , I've started to see the 9.5 online and in the mags. I'm about a week away from a desicion point and still can't deside:eek: :confused:
The price on both seems to be about the same(info taken from Bruckner's latest mag ad) . Any of you guys w/ 9.5's that are familliar w/ the H7 , what do you like better about the 9.5
Anyway as you can see I'm in a pickle

[winning edge designs]

Tarvy, I think they are both good buggies and parts are available for both now or will be very soon. I know the Hyper 7 can use alot of kyosho parts,which makes finding hop-up stuff easier. The 9.5 is said to be thier(ofna's) flagship buggy,so they obviuosly think it's the better for all out racing. I've been very competitive with my Hyper 7,barring a little bad luck,LOL,not the buggies fault!.......Jim

[tarvymoto]

I know the 9.5 comes w/ a pipe and header , but I don't think it has the torsion diff.
Jim have you tested w/ the torsion? Also a funny thing I noticed is that the 9.5 is about $20 less than the H7 Pro( at least at Bruckner. I'm callin Superior today to see if they have the 9.5.

[Lost Racer1]

Verify its the 9.5 Pro..

[tarvymoto]

It's the Pro . Look at Bruckner's add in the current RCNitro (NTC3cover). Ofcourse there price on the H7 Pro is $20 over priced.

[ccolehyper7]

I purchased a Ofna Hyper 7 rtr run and i wouldn't by Ofna again. It seems i figured out why the buggy wouldn't run. There setting that they give you in the manual won't even start the motor. thats a joke buy it's self. Then on about the 25 pull the pull starter breaks. Thats real nice after paying $470 you half to go pay $28 more dollers before i can even start it again. Thats before i even got to drive the damn thing. o yea there was i screw missing to. one that hold the pipe bracket on. I can handle the stuff about the buggy but what i will not deal with is that i have emailed them about 2 weeks ago and i have heard nothing back. Thats why i wouldn't buy Ofna again. I have had other r/c's (nitro 1/10 scale trucks) and the companies always took care of any problems i have had. HPI and Traxxas i know this is Ofna forum and i'm not looking for a fight just telling what i think.

[Draxx]

From reading earlier posts on this forum, I gather that people do much better calling Ofna.I agree...they should answer e-mails. But since they dont seem to, try calling them.

[hpiproracer]

Welp, I just joined the ranks of a 1/8th buggy owner (just picked up the Ofna MBX RTR). A few questions... I'm going to run the stock servos and such for now... but the radio will be out in short order. I have a JR XR3... and will most likely will pickup a Novak XXL receiver for the car. What steering servo should I replace the stock one with? I'm thinking something in the $50 range (hopefully) or $60 at the most. I'm going to bash the buggy for a short time while learning how to use it.
Hopefully... I will be able to start racing it soon (not competatively... Just to get a feel for the buggy). And we'll see from there. Basically, I'm looking for the servo suggestion, I've found out what diff oils I should try first... and will work on that later. I mounted the rear wing... but there is slop in it with only body clips holding it on. The car came with some cone shaped plastic washers... that I assumed went over the wing pings and then the body clips go through... but I can't get the washers low enough for the clips to fit in... any ideas?

[Draxx]

I cant help you much (I have had my MBX 3 weeks longer than you), but I would go to Tower Hobby's site and look at the Hitec brand servos. They
are inexpensive and work well. I picked up an "ultra torque" steering servo for my buggy. My stock Futaba servo worked, but not great.

As far as the wing goes, If you found washers for it in the box, you did better than me. I drilled the holes just barely big enough for the mounting pins and put the wing/clip on. It is holding tight.I will look again for the washers...

[CTRallyRacer2]

Ok... I looked up the stock servo information for the Ultra MBX RTR kit... and they are pretty much the same thing as a Futaba s3003 servo (junk). For the people that have upgraded their servos and noticed the best (bang for buck) upgrade... what servos did you get (steering & throttle/brake). I'd like inexpensive, but good performing ones. I will even take suggestions for other servos to look at.

Also, does anyone have any information on the MBX R2 upgrade for the MBX RTR buggy? I'd like to upgrade to the better buggy if it's worth it. And what is it's cost?