Associated TC3 Forum v1.0

[Crazy Canuck]

Dont bother with the Aluminum CVDs, they break just as often and are he same weight. Its a waste of money. The threaded shocks are worth it, though, esp for racing. Not so much for bashing, though.

[aeb3man_44]

i'm ordering the racer kit tonight i'll just go from there, thanks for telling me that:) is the racer kit tough?

[Crazy Canuck]

Most of it is solid, but get a BRP wide front bumber, that protects the A Arms. A Arms break quite easily without it.

[aeb3man_44]

i will be putting a tri sonic 14 turn motor, will it go fast?

[Darryl149]

Hi all I got myself a new TC3 for christmas I am wondering what servos you are using? I was looking at the hitec 645 it has a speed of .18 and 133oz of torque?

[Grizzbob]

That should work fine, though I tend to prefer Airtronics servos, I have 2 TC3's one has a 94257, & the other has a 94737(I think), both have speed in the .06-.16 range & torque from 70-110oz./in. It is important to have a strong one, & yours sounds good, so if the price is right, I'd say go for it....:)

[Grizzbob]

Oh, & aeb3man, yes a 14 turn motor will make it go fast(& you should make sure you have a good selection of pinions to make sure you don't overgear the motor & burn it up).....:cool:

[Crazy Canuck]

If you want a Hitec Servo, the 625 is a better coice for touring, .11 speed and 95 Oz-in of torque. Its more responsive, so I like it.

[aeb3man_44]

yeah i do have a good selection of pinions, hey guys im just using a futaba s3003 servo, i use it on all my cars i mean to power my 2 buggys

[Darryl149]

I am pretty new to racing (been bashing emaxx for quite a while) I thought maybe a little slower speed on the servo would give me a little more control with less oversteer? If not maybe I will go with something faster like the 625. I went and watched a couple of the indoor races and it seemed most of the beginner drivers would wobble down the straightaway over correcting.

[Crazy Canuck]

If thats a problem, use your radio to dial out servo speed. Dont buy something slower if for the same price you can have a fast one. You can also dial out servo travel to fix that.

[Darryl149]

Oh hey thanks I totally forgot about turning it down with the radio I will go ahead and get the faster servo. I have a JR XR3 that should work for adjusting it.

[chucksolo]

Well, I got my AE TC3 RTR for Christmas and have just run it for the first time. I have to say, that even with the stock 19 Turn motor, it moves pretty well. I plan on putting a Monsters of Touring 17 Turn in it and see how that works. The only thing about this car that I don't like is the Hitech Lynx Sport radio. The thing just feels cheesy to me. I like the Traxxas controllers much better and will probably get a different receiver in it so I can use my new Multiplex Profi radio with it. Also, the ball cup setup for the steering looks a little fragile. It just doesn't look as robust as the steering on my electric 4-Tec. I have heard that they are fragile. But so far, it seems like a great car.

[Crazy Canuck]

The ballcups are actually quite durable. If you find they are popping off too often, get some RPM captured ballcups, and replace them. Ive never had a problam on the steering, I find the camber rods are where I have the most problem.

[ttweedle]

Just got me a RTR TC3. I didn't want a RTR but I got it as a gift, so here it is. Any way I put Deans plugs on the ESC, and if I ever race it will put my good radio in it, have a Novak C2, Hitec lynx3d, Its in my FTT3 right now. I don't have any TC tracks around here, but I am looking. Its been raining for the past 2 days so I have only run it in my garage. Its pretty sweet. I like that it has all ball bearing in it.

Travis

[Darryl149]

Are the Pro-line vrage tires that come with the kit any good for carpet? I would just like to know before I glue them to the rims.

What about the traction compound? Does it make much of a difference for carpet racing?

[Grizzbob]

If you want to race on carpet, then don't bother mounting those V-Rage tires, they're not meant for that stuff, mostly just for running in the street. For carpet, I'd recommend tires like Pit Shimizu or Sorex in their 20R-28R compounds(& use a Yokomo firm molded insert, or HPI red, & there are a few others that also do a good job filling the tire). As for traction compound, yes, they DEFINITELY make a difference. It does wear off before you get halfway through a run, but by that time your tires should be up to proper temperature & work fine on their own. I mainly use traction compound to soften them up for long enough to get them up to temp., but I still rely on the tires themselves in the thick of a race.....:)

[Crazy Canuck]

You could also use CS 22s or 27s. For traction compound: CRC (green can) or Paradigm (Black can) are the ones to use if you dont mind the stink. Use Trinity if you want less odor. Make sure your track allows compound, though. Grizzbob's right, dont bother with the V rage tires.

[James414]

ttweedle, I see that you are from NC. Check out the regional boards and look for the Tarheel State Forum. Then just ask around about the TC tracks. I am sure that if you do the right talking then you and a few people could get together at one of the local malls and have a blast in the parking lot. I know me and a two friends of mine have a good time at the Plaza mall here in New Orleans. We have not been able to contact management about using some of the vacant space but security sure enjoys it when we come by. I am trying to convince the guy to get a TC so then it would be 5 of us, but so far he just likes to watch.

[Kraig]

If you guys are looking for a heck of a deal on the Sorex tires check out www.kthobbies.com 11 bucks for 20's or 24's or 28's.

Don't forget to check out the wheels and inserts as well.

I also found out that TQ Blue works good for rubber tires on carpet and it doesn't smell like paragon.

[Darryl149]

Ok picked up some new tires I got the Shimizu D20 for the back and the D25 for the front. Also got the HPI green foams, Just dyeing the rims now. (bright yellow) Hope to have this thing ready soon can't wait to try it out on the track.

Thanks for all the help so far i'm sure I will need more.

[aeb3man_44]

you guys i just got my tc3 done today and i love it! theres only one thing im concerned about one wheel turns more than the other and gives better handling when i turn it that way.How can i make them both even on each side?you guys should know;) ;)

[Lowrider170]

Anyone race a tc3 rtr almost stock but just change the motor how did it handle and all?

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Abe, I suggest you invest in a Hudy set board thing-a-majiger! I think it is called a hudy board. It sounds like one wheel has more tow in it than the other...

[staticx1134]

ok guys... i am just gonna start racing my tc3...what tires and how do i set up my car?? very new to the tc3!! o ya i am running on a track that is road hehe:D

[FireFly980]

staticx
I would suggest that you start out by buying the Associated "Complete Tuning Guide: TC3" for approximately $5.00.

[jackhammer74]

question for all TC3 gurus outhere, last week I was driving my TC3
in a big parking lot , when suddenly my radio when nuts and I lost control of the car, it crashed full speed into the back of a parked car's front tire, I checked the car up and down and the only damage I could spot was a busted front shock tower, now I've seen the replacement at my LHS it's only like 6 or 7 bucks,
but it's kinda flimsy, what's the best choice outhere, graphite, carbon fiber, aluminum? What do you guys recommend. Thanks

[Grizzbob]

Well, personally, I like the graphite one, it is stronger even though it's also more brittle. It can just take more punishment before it goes out.....:)

[speedydave]

Not to put down any of you TC3 guys, but I have to ask, if you(or other people) think the TC3 is so fragile, what are you doing to it?!?!? I took mine offroad today(I was bored...), with slicks, and onroad ride height. Jumped it off a triple, rolled it a LOT, nothing broke except that the wing fell off. I must ask, what kind of torture are you putting your cars through? Or is it just that I have an uncanny ability to make AE cars not break(and no, I'm not a great driver, can barely handle buggy stock, can't handle anything mod, tapped the boards a lot with my TC3)??

[aeb3man_44]

you guys i think the composite on the tc3 is very stiff what difference does it make? it tough too

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

O.K. I have thought about it. Then, at my LHS, they put a bunch of cars on display, and included the RTR TC3. I now don't know which to get. The FT TC3, or the RTR TC3. I keep telling myself that I should get the FT kit, but I am not so sure N-E-More. I want the FT car, but I don't know if it is worth it. If I got the RTR TC3, then which parts should I get for it, and what should I upgrade, besides the radio? Thanx! :)

[bluesy]

XXX/TC3.... I'd go for the FT.... For me there is nothing better than putting your newly built car on the driveway and driving it!!! RTR is better for those who are not mechanically inclined (or don't want to spend the time building).. Personally, that's a big part of why I'm in this crazy hobby.... wrenching... there is always something to fiddle with.

The preceding is my opinion and in no way intended to place undue influence on a potential purchase.

Whatever you decide to buy you'll have a ton of fun and your TC3 won't dissappoint you!!! :cool: :cool:

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Thanx. I too enjoy wrenching thoroughly. If I could, I would put people's cars together for free. I loved putting my XXX together, but Now, I must get a touring car. I might get the FT TC3, and use the same electrinics for the 2 cars I own. I want the Super Rooster for the brake light circuitry, and the reverse, but for the other electronics, I don't know. I might get two motors for the two different applications, but other than that, I don't know. Any ideas? :)

[Stern]

Just finished building my first TC3. I got the Team Kit. Couple Questions. Oh and since this thread is so long I didn't really read all of it so if these have been anwsered already I'm sorry.

1) I'm concerned about the rear A-arms. Where can one find some Nerf bars for the TC3? Or should I just swap the plastic out for the GPM Aluminum A-arms?
2) Does the Swaybar kit make much difference in cornering with the stock springs?
3) What about the 200mm conversion? Does it offer better cornering because of the wider wheel track? (I would assume it would as wider = better on Real cars).
4) Is there any advantage to using the One-way Front Diff?

And lastly for the serious TC3 racers; what is the number one Mod thats a must have (besides replacing the stock tires)?

[Crazy Canuck]

1) The rear A Arms seem to hold up ok, Ive only ever broken 1. If you really want Nerf Bars, BRP makes some. Dont go for aluminum, they will just bend, and youll be out a lot of $$.

2) The swaybars do make a difference, but only get them if you need to use them as a tuning tool. A swaybar will decrease grip on the end of the car you put it on ie if your car is loose, put one on the front

3) Theoretically it would give you less chance of a rollover, but if youre fliping a TC3, theres something else thats causeing it, a much bigger problem. The 200 mm conversion is really only if you want to use 200 mm bodies. It wont really improve handling.

4) Yes, it makes you corner much faster. The only trick is to be on the power the whole time, if you get off at all, the back end will get really light, and start to spin. Even on a technical track, it helps a lot.

Get the BRP wide front bumper if youre going to race. It will save you may front A Arms. Also, if you have the money, invest in threaded shocks and a clip on heatsink.

[Stern]

Thanks CC. Heat sink I have. I'll probably buy the swaybar kit anyway, just to play around with it and see what works for my driving style.

I seem to push the Front end alot in corners on Asphalt, even with stickied up tires. So it sounds like the One-Way diff will be a fix for that. BTW, I mostly run with the MVP Stock motor with 26/72 Gearing. So full throttle racing is what I'm going for. I like wide open tracks as opposed to tight technical courses.

Oh one other question: Has anyone set up a TC3 for Oval? If you did, did you have to do anything special to the suspension setup? Like Heavier springs or Oil on the Right side shocks (for left handed Ovals). I used to have a 10L Pan that I Ovaled about 9 years ago.

[Crazy Canuck]

If you add a front one way, look into the centre oneway as well. You put it on in front of the spur gear, and it makes the drivetrain smooth as silk. GPM used to make a metal one, see if you can find one.

[Stern]

Here's my TC3 Team Kit all dressed out in Racing Form.
Those are Yokomo Wheels with Yokomo Slicks and Inserts. They work great on the high bite Asphalt track I run on.

http://home1.gte.net/res03q4u/tc3-yokomocopy.jpg

Oh and the Body is an HPI Ford Mondeo.

[uncivil]

I got a new set of rear A Arms for my TC3 and I dont understand why they dont have the screw to adjust the droop that the stock ones have. Any suggestions?

[Grizzbob]

Uncivil, those are likely just some older arms that have been on the shelf for awhile, the droop screws were a running change that Associated made , but they still left lots of the old ones in circulation......:)

[Rick of England]

I'm gonna get:
TC3 Racer
BRP bumpers/nerf bars
threaded shox
pinions
clip on heatsink
kimbrough servo saver
swaybar kit
hex drive set
and perhaps a spare body. I've already got an Axis 2, this is my 'spare car' whcih I can run on a parking lot as well as on carpet. I'm gonna have fun spending 250 big ones at Bruckner. BTW, are Bruckner open all the time? Do they always have TC3's in stock?

[HauntedMyst]

Rick,
By the time you add the threaded shocks, the sway bars and clip on heat sink to the Racer, you'll have come with in a couple of bucks of paying for a FT TC3, so why not just get that in the first place?


I just got my FT TC3 and the manual wasn't included. I need some set up help. I'll be racing stock on a blown asphalt parking lot.

I need the following recommendations to start off with.

Piston # in Shock
Shock oil weight
Springs front and rear (I have them all)
Ride Hieght
Camber
Caster
Toe

Thanks all!

[aeb3man_44]

Rick going with the racer is a good choice because you get a body and wheels and tires unlike the ft and you'll also have 2 extra pairs of shocks with it good choce i have the racer and i think it's an excellent car and holds together well too

[uncivil]

Hauntedmyst we run on similar surfaces here is what I am using.

#2 piston in the shocks
70wt oil front & rear
red springs in the front blue in the rear
4.5 on the ride height front & rear
front -2 rear -2 on the camber
0 degree caster
3 degree toe
droop 6 in rear 4 in front
running med/med Yokahama tires & inserts

hope this helps

[Crazy Canuck]

I like to run 1 degree camber all around, maximum 1.5. I find too much speed gets scrubbed otherwise.

Red and blue springs are a good place to start, and to start, mount them in the outside holes. If you hear tire squealing, move them down a hole at a time.

You can download the manual at www.rc10.com if you dont have it.

[HauntedMyst]

Thanks uncivil!

It helps a lot.

[aeb3man_44]

what kind of motors are all you guys using right now in your tc3? im using a reedy mvp and mine hauls:cool: :D :) :p

[Crazy Canuck]

P2K2 when I race or a Xipp racing 13x2. Good stuff. My P2K2 really flies.

[uncivil]

P2K2 27 turn stock for racing. 25/72 pinion/spur

[RC10T3]

I run 45 wt oil around, yellow springs in the rear, white springs in the front, no swaybars, pink foams in front, purple foams in the rear. This setup seems to work really well, and for stock racing, I run Yokomo Sprint mediums, with medium inserts :-)

[chevy350smlblok]

I got a tc3 racer and its enogh for me!!! I think that you shouldnt get the ft unless you are familiar with the car, also the aluminum screws can be bi tch so get allen drivers!!!!

[aeb3man_44]

he's right i have the tc3 and it's alot a car for the money$ im impressed with it

[staticx1134]

hey guys i need help with my setup this is my track conditions......Short narrow track with many sharp turns can u guys help me out?? thanx o ya it is in a parking lot and it is in FL!!

[uncivil]

Well first of all what kind of problems are you having on the track? Is it smooth or bumpy? I will assume its asphault or is it concrete?

[staticx1134]

it is asphault

[uncivil]

ok what about the rest?

[staticx1134]

kinda bumpy and havent raced their much

[JP]

Run it stiff. At first, try front and rear gold springs, with 50 or 60 weight oil. I'm assuming, and guessing it's a stock race. So I would recommend about a 25-27 tooth pinion with stock spur. Medium inserts and medium stickiness tires. Try that for a start. Adjust according to traction and track size.

[Crazy Canuck]

My car is an absolute pig!! Its up at 1600 grams, I want it to be closer to 1500. What should I do? I was thinking of changing out my hardened steel outdrives for plastic. I have the graphite kit. Will aluminum screws make a difference?

[uncivil]

From what I am told is the aluminum stuff will actually make it heavier than the graphite stuff. Not really sure I use the graphite myself. But I couldnt tell ya what it weighs we dont weigh them at our track.

[civic]

I just bought a TC3 RTR (this thing rocks) I was wondering what motor can i get to replace the stock one without having to change all the other electronics. I just want to add a different motor and go----By the way does anyone know what's the speed on the TC3 RTR?

thanks civic

[uncivil]

I believe the lpr runner will take a 17turn motor max. and the speed all depends on how it is geared but I would guess with the 19 turn motor with the right gearing maybe 25-30 mph

[makaluch]

I'm new to this on-road stuff so pardon my stupidity...:(

Anyway, I tried to make a Rooster fit and it's just too big ! Am I doing something wrong or am I just an idiot ??!! I have an Atom and TC2 coming, but I was hoping to use the mellow stuff and an extra P2kPro just to get the feel of these cars.

I'm kinda lost as far as suspension setup goes. I've seen everything from 45 to 80 weights being used and all different color springs.

Any setup suggestions for just runnung cones in a fairly smooth unprepared parking lot ? I'll have a stock motor in at first...then I'll step up a little to a cheesy mod...Speed Gem 14D. From there, nobody knows !!!:D Thanks guys !!! >>>Mark

[uncivil]

I would see how the stock springs and oil work for you. Unless you are trying to race. Then ask some of the other guys if they let ya look at their setup sheets. We race on smooth parking lot that has been blown and had VHT applied. I have posted my setup for that type of surface. I also use paragon on the tires for a treatment.

[Crazy Canuck]

The stock suspension setup is a good way to go. When you drive, make a mental note of how the car feels (loose or tight), but more importantly, where is feels funny (On-power, off-power, neutral power). If you know that, you can get one of the good racers at your track to help you. Just tell them whats wrong and where its wrong.

[JP]

Originally posted by makaluch
I'm new to this on-road stuff so pardon my stupidity...:(

Anyway, I tried to make a Rooster fit and it's just too big ! Am I doing something wrong or am I just an idiot ??!! I have an Atom and TC2 coming, but I was hoping to use the mellow stuff and an extra P2kPro just to get the feel of these cars.

The Rooster is a big ESC and will definately have trouble mounting in the TC3, but your Atom or TC2 will do fine. In the mean time, mount the rooster loosely on the battery side or on the servo. But get one of those other ESC's in asap :)

[civic]

What kind of performance kind I expect out of my TC3---when I exchange the stock 19turn motor for a 17?


thanks civic

[Crazy Canuck]

Slightly faster than stock. Most of the gain would be because it is open endbell.

[civic]

Crazy Canuck what exactly do you mean by open in bell---I'm new to this RC car thing.

[civic]

Need a little help here----do different types of batteries give you more power and speed as oppose to others?


thanks civic

[uncivil]

Depends on what exactly you are asking. This is my understanding basicaly. The mah rating is the amount of energy the battery can contain. So given the exact same car setup a 2400 mah battery will give more runtime than say a 2000 mah battery. The nicad type battery is cheaper than the nimh also easier to maintain. The nimh is very sensitive to heat so they cannot be run as much or as hard as a nicad. There is also a bit more upkeep in the nicad is a little more forgiving as far as charging discharging etc. Also I may have this backward but the nicad will give more punch but tapers off more as the battery runs down and the nimh runs constand until the battery dumps. Now when you ask about speed voltage=speed. Up to a certain point the more voltage you have the more speed. So simply putting it a 7 cell battery will give more speed than a 6 cell batter with equal conditions. Each cell is 1.2 volts so multiply it out 6 cells is 7.2 and 7 cells is 8.4 so the 7 cell with = a faster car. That is with equal setups. I hope all this makes sense.

[civic]

Uncivil thanks for the info:)

[Crazy Canuck]

An open endbell motor is one where the brushes are replaceable, and the motor is rebuildable. If you look at your old motor, it is completely sealed, with no hardware at the top. An open endbell, such as the one you are thinking of buying, is easier to maintain, and to keep running at a high performance.

Sorry about the short reply earlier.

Uncivils right about the batteries. The only thing to add is that when a battery peaks, it is usually at 9-10 volts for 6 cell, and 10-11 volts for 7 cell. The 7.2 volts is the average voltage at the end of the run. Its not really important, unless youre adding fuses an diodes, its best to add ones rated for at least 16 volts.

[lodi guy]

is the tc3 rally conversion worth the money and does any one have the conversion on their tc3
i have a used tc3 and i live on a ranch so it is doing me no good as it is and the rally kit looked good. or should i just keep it the way it is and go to the race track on the weekends and race it



lodi guy

[makaluch]

Is the graphite suspension set worth the coin ?

Seems to me that less unsprung weight is always an advantage. I'd also be on a parking lot so wouldn't less weight be better with less traction ?

[Crazy Canuck]

Lodi Guy: The rally kit makes the car 200mm. The parts are harded to find to reaplace if you break them ie if you break a front A Arm, its hard to find the long one. Other than that, theres no reason not to get it. Make sure your track allows 200mm TCs, though.

The graphite arms by themselves are not worth it. The difference in weight is negligable, maybe 2 grams. The composite arms are 10% graphite anyway. If you want to make a big difference, get the full graphite conversion kit, that gives you shock towers, chassis, and arms, and some other stuff.

[Saboteur]

Man i though about both racing nitro and elec cars. But then since my track said they race both nitro and elec, i might get a tc3. And maybe the nitro conversion for it, or should i get a different nitro car instead? :confused:

[Crazy Canuck]

Dont get a Nitro conv. kit, get a Nitro TC3. Decide if you like nitro or elec. more, then choose.

[uncivil]

agreed you would spend more on the car that way also you wouldnt have the elec car anymore I would get the nitro kit if you want nitro and then the elec kit for elec recievers are cheaper than a new radio so use the same radio on both cars

[Saboteur]

yeah....i like nitro...but elec at the same time. Guess ill get a nitro since i already have an elec. Gonna get a job and save up big time till i get can what i want :)

[BlueBoy]

Has anyone noticed that if you swap the rear hub carriers/uprights/whatever round (put left upright on right wishbone etc) then you can get 0 degrees toe in?
They don't tell you that in the manual do they, its just "yeah, buy this bit, then this bit, then this bit..."

[Racin Rev]

is zero degree toe in to be desired?

[BlueBoy]

I find it helps on a tight carpet track.
Also, as long as you have a decent amount of grip it will make the car a bit faster on the straights because of the reduced scrubbing of the wheels.
It does make the back end a little loose but that suits my driving style.
Try it, it either works for you or it doesn't.

[King Nothing]

Hi,

Got a quick question. About how much space is there for the ESC? I'll be using a futuba reciever and standard sized servo. I want to use a novak dually, but I think it'll be too big. Thanks.

[nitrodemon]

does this forum include both the electric and nitro TC3 or just the electric?

[aeb3man_44]

just electric as you can see

[rcruv]

Originally posted by King Nothing
Hi,

Got a quick question. About how much space is there for the ESC? I'll be using a futuba reciever and standard sized servo. I want to use a novak dually, but I think it'll be too big. Thanks.

Novak dually doesn't fit but you can put the receiver on the servo as I did. :D
No problem.

Or you could stand up the receive between dually and servo.

[timberwolf211]

I understand about the receiver and ESC being to big. I have the same problem with my TC3. Since I am running a Traxxas receiver and a IPC pro sport ESC. After laying it out I decided to put the receiver on top of the servo too :D Maybe I will get the Novak xxl am receiver and might have enough room to fit both.But for now I will leave it the way I have it.

[uncivil]

I had to put my reciever on my servo as well only cause I was getting a bit of glitching.Just use a good servo tape to keep that thing from poping off in a crash.

[King Nothing]

So, for those of you that race, does putting the reciever on top of the servo or putting vertical affect cg much? Thanks.

[Crazy Canuck]

The reciever on the servo has no more effect than the transponder being in the windshield (ie nil). On a tight carpet course, there is not really a difference, except when I raced mod a couple of times. Then I could feel it a bit.

[cow on wheels]

k guys, i am gettin bak into the electric scene after being out of it for a few years and i will be gettin the tc3 "racer" this will be my second electric and my fifth rc car (my first elctric being a tamiya tlo1) and i wont to fit it with a LRP super sport digital speedo, a ko ps713 fet servo, dont know wot radio set yet, 17x2 or 16x2 motor and some 2400's and im thinking about the charger
does n e 1 have n e thing that they could recommend that i fit other than the tires?
n e thing else that i will need?
ne special things i got to do while building it?
ALL help will be appreciated
thanks

[uncivil]

Well Cow depends on what you want to do with it?? You want to race it or just play with it in a parking lot? Maybe install the rally kit and play in the dirt with it?

[rcruv]

BRP wide bumper and nerf wings. :D
They save lots of parts for you.

If you wanna race springs, oil, good tires, inserts, wheels.
And setup parts such as optional mounts, block carriers.

And lots of spare parts.

Make sure everything is free when you build it.

[cow on wheels]

at the moment im just gonna be bashing and eventually ill be taking it down to my local race trak on practice days, im not going into competition as my parents insist on me concentrate on my studies because ive got sum big sats exams coming up soon - lot of revising 2 do!
btw- wot nerf wings?

[uncivil]

Nerf wings are nice little things that mount on the chassis and protect the rear a-arms from damage. BRP also makes a good front as well as big rear bumper. For backyard lot bashing I would run it stock. Go down to the local track and see what the guys are running in their cars so you can set it up similar in the beginning. If you ever wanna race buy a ESC that will lockout reverse some tracks wont let you on with a reversing esc unless you can lock it out. And a good stock class motor to get used to the speed & power I use a 27turn P2K2 stock motor. You can get faster lower turn motors but use the stock class motor so if you ever race you are familiar with your equipment. I hope all this helps.

[Crazy Canuck]

Yeah, go for a competition stock motor. You can get speeds and punch equivalent to a 12-13 turn if you do it right. At my track this week, the TQ in stock had more laps than the TQ in Mod.

[jesse370]

The track I race at uses a great setup for the corner layout. If you hit it hard it will shift and not break alot of parts...Well the losi's still :D Now for outdoor I'm going to get the bumper and wings. Right now I'm on a mission to get my drivetrain to freespool for as long as possible..A few more lightweight driveline parts and highend bearings and I'll be set.

[cow on wheels]

wot torque steer?

an i have chnged my mind about the speedo - instead of the lrp, i hav decided 2 get the mtroniks digi sprint which can handle n e motor - an can u reccomend a good STIK pack of 2400 or 3000 cells which is a good cost (££)

[Northerner]

if your looking for some good stick pack batteries, then go to team associated's website and the reedy battery section. they have Reedy R3K 3000 nimh sport packs for $40....thats cheap. i bought 4 packs and love them!

http://www.teamassociated.com/shusting/CatalogHub/reedy/catrdy1.htm

[dugrant153]

I've got a problem. I recently lost a nylon wheel nut on my TC3 while it was running. So, I went to my LHS and looked for replacements.

The guy there gave me Low Profile 8-32 Locknuts from Trinity. Now, when I tried to put these on, they screwed in a bit, but at the tightest setting there was still play in the wheels (I could still move the wheel in and out a bit).

Any ideas? Also, silver nuts (for other touring cars) don't seem to screw on all that great.

Advice would be greatly appreciated.

[chizzler]

there should be a little play with the wheel, if too much, put some shims/washer between the 1/16" axle thingey on the cvd

[dugrant153]

Does play include sliding along the axle? Because that's the way I define that kind of wheel play.

[Scrad]

I'm getting some traction roll racing carpet and I was wondering if I should run an anti roll bar in the front of the rear of the car?

[Grizzbob]

Really, Scrad, I think it depends on how your car feels other than the traction rolling. If you feel you have enough steering & don't want to change it too much, then I'd go ahead & get one for both front & rear, that should help with the traction rolling without making your car steer any different......:)

[Racin Rev]

dugrant

something is wrong with this picture. either you have cross threaded the nuts or you have the wrong thread for the application. A visual inspection would likely tell you what the problem is.

[Scrad]

It seems like I have a little push going on, but if I run lighter springs it rolls over. So what do you suggest?

[Racin Rev]

Sounds like your ride height might be a little high. Where is your droop set?

[Archerboi]

My TC3 is getting a overhaul, and I am wondering what a good set up would be for the shocks. I just run in the street or parking lots, some bumpy, others smooth, small rocks at times. I currently have the stock set up. Thanks

[Scrad]

My droop is set at 6 and my ride height is at 4mm or less. I try to get it as low as possible.

[Crazy Canuck]

How much travel do you get? It sounds like you have too many internal spacers in you shocks.

[cow on wheels]

i have figured out a cheap and very effective way to solve all of your traction problems!

jus go around on the area that you will be racing on an spray it with coke!
it reely works and the traction is superb

btw - west london racing club use this technique the night before a big race and it helps a lot as i have found out.

[Porsche]

I need to know what gearing to use on my TC3. I am running a fantom 9*2.
Thanks for all your time,
Christopher Owens:D

[bay1219]

What is a good spur gear and pinion gear combo to go with to start?? I'm running a Team Fantom stock motor.

[aeb3man_44]

if its 24 degree i'd use a 28/72, it says to use that in the instrucions for the tc3

[Crazy Canuck]

Which stock motor? Fantom does a lot of them, and they vary in the gears you should use.

[bay1219]

I'm not sure. I bought the motor from a guy I know at my LHS. I bought it because he sold it to me for cheap ($10.00) and he just put a brand new set of brushes on it. It just needs a little cleaning up and it will look like new.

[bay1219]

Is there an easy way to change the spur gear without having to take off the top of the rear gearbox assembly?? From reading the manual, it seems like this is the only way.

[Crazy Canuck]

Yes, to change the spur you have to pull off the top of the rear transmission case and you also have to remove the small clamp in front of the spur. Make sure to re install the shaft when you put it back together, it'll save you a lot of headaches.

As for the motor, does it have any special markings on it? It should say "Green machine 1, 2 or 3", "MVP" or "P2K"

[{TC3}Cyrus]

I am interested but can't find reviews for them. Any info?

[chris_dono]

pulling to one side

anyone else had this problem ? I read somewhere that rebuilding the diffs might help, but I rebuilt them today and it hasn't helped much. It seems to be that the steering servo doesn't centre when returning from left or right....

Any ideas ?

Is there adjustment in the steering rack ?
Should I try another servo ?

I have a standard Acoms servo in there atm (that's the one that came with the radio)

Thanks for the help

Chris
:D:D

[JimmyMac]

Check to see if the steering rack is too tight. If it is, just loosen the two nuts (on top of the rack) about 1/8 a turn until it moves freely. Disconnect the servo linkage while doin this. See where anything binds up.

[cow on wheels]

its ur servo thats the problem - not enuff torque!
the acoms sevos only have 2.3 kg/cm of torque which is jus crap compared to the others - u should be aiming 2 hace at least 6 kg/cm of torque which no body uses.
i have a futaba ps713 servo with 9.5 kg/cm of torque and a speed of 0.06 seconds to do 60 degrees - the acoms has about 3. sumthing speed which is quite slow ----- i had the acoms radio set to start off with thats why i know this stuff and i now have a futaba system in my tc3

[SIR-CLIFF]

i was wondering if any of u have tried the kimbrough sero saver for a hitec servo and found it effective in your TC3?

was using a hitec 300bb (i know low torque) i stripped gears in one week

just odered a hitec 625mg (mo torque)

:confused:

[BlueBoy]

I put a servo saver in my TC3 about a month ago (99% sure it was the kimbrough medium sized one) but it didn't fit. The spring housing caught on the ribs in the chassis. I drilled two new holes in the chassis about an inch back (just in front of the arial hole) to mount the servo mounts in and now it fits great!
The servo saver itself works great - it seemed a little stiff at first but it does save the servo (funny, that) in the event of a nasty crash - and that's first hand experience talking there;)

[cow on wheels]

wots the actual point in a servo saver??
wots their actual perpose?
i no get it

[BlueBoy]

A servo saver is a spring loaded mechanism that absorbs the input from the wheels during a crash. If you have a bump that knocks the wheels it can sometimes strip the servo gears, but a servo saver, if you like, saves the servo.

[chris_dono]

pulling left - FIXED

I rebuilt the diffs, and reset the server to the centre.
I then checked the toe-in settings.
I checked the suspension for any binding and the rear right was binding, so I loosened it off a little and the same for the front left.

I also replaced the transmission cases, these needed doing due to me not reading the manual very well to start off with, and putting the diffs in without a bushing on one side.

I went out to test it today and it seems to be ok now

Thanks for the help guys :D
it's much appreciated

Chris
:D:D

[NitroRookie]

What do you think of the stuff in my TC3 list?

ASC3030 TC3 4WD Team Car
PAR10198P 1/10 Dodge Viper Pntd
TRI9213 Speedgem 2 Diamond 12T Double
ASC8255 Racing Pinion 18T 48P
HIT122751 Lynx 2ch FM Pistol 1/300
HITHS625MS Servo - Super Speed MG JR
ASCLRP8336 ESC F1 Pro w/Reverse
DTXC2125 Sanyo 3000 NiMh 6-Cell Pack
DTXP4150 Intellipeak Twin Pulse Charger

[BlueBoy]

Nice setup - I bet that thing flies!
Here's mine:

Factory Team TC3 kit
PROTOform Dodge Stratus
LRP Quantum Competition
Trinity P2K2 Pro stock motor
KO Propo PS2123 Digital FET servo
Reedy WC Zappers - Sanyo RC2400
KO Propo KR297F reciever
KO Propo Esprit II Vantage radio
Novak Millenium charger

[yokomomr4]

I have a Cyclone ESC and a P2K2 stock motor. I have SMH Trinity batteries and a JR XR2 motor. I have a Futaba 9304 servo and a racer kit with a Andy's Stratus body. Great for stock racing. TC3 all they way!!! :o

[aeb3man_44]

heres mine (very cheap)

tc3 racer with stratus body
futaba am 2pc,s3003 servo, and reciever
futaba mc230cr
reedy mvp
trinity blue bumper
proline green foams with dish wheels
everthing else stock

hey it feels like a mod!

[SIR-CLIFF]

http://communities.msn.com/SIRCLIFFsCRIB/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=1


Team TC3
Lexus IS200 body
Hpi wheels/V-rage tires
Lrp f1 pro esc
12t P-94 motor
Hitec 625mg servo
Lynx fm transmitter
Rpm wide front bumper

just finished building,spent half my income tax check!

[Crazy Canuck]

Does anyone know if Hardcore racing sells the mounts for their Titanium chassis and shock towers separately from the chassis and shock tower?

[Bryan_35]

Hello all,

Brand new TC3 owner here. (Actually it hasn't even arrived yet but I'm excited and getting ready for it.)

I have a gearing question.

I am racing on a concrete outdoor racing surface probably with the original Racer tires for now. I have a P2K Pro that was dynoed at 30,185 rpms. It is a twisty course with a long (20-30 ft.) backstretch.

Any ideas on a gear/pinion combo for this track? I need to know at least where to start with the TC3.

Thanks,

Bryan_35

[pkny]

why dont you ask the pplz who drive tc3's and race at that track? its hard to say without knowing the track looks like

[atm92484_3]

Bryan, check out the AE Gearing Chart. (http://www.rc10.com/racerhub/other/gearing.htm)

They reccomend a 28t pinion. This is what I'm using on my Team TC3 with the same motor and it works fine.

[Bryan_35]

Thanks,
Now I have a place to get started. If only the car will arrive!

Bryan_35

[Bryan_35]

OK I have the gearing taken care of.

Next question.

What kind of shock oil and springs should I run on outdoor concrete for the front and the rear?

Thanks,

Bryan_35

[atm92484_3]

It depends on the tires also, but I'd reccomend getting a bottle of 30wt, 50wt, and 60wt oil (40wt came with the kit), and the set of NTC3/TC3 springs and just playing with the settings. If you're running foams, I think you'll see the car runs better with a harder setting but with rubbers, the stock AE setting should be pretty close to what you want.

[Bryan_35]

Thanks,

I will be running rubber tires. I'm afraid the surface will be a bit too abrasive for foams. I don't want to be buying tires all the time.

[aeb3man_44]

what versions of tc3s are all you guys running?

racer tc3

[atm92484_3]

I have a Team TC3 with a Novak Dual Fusion esc and a P2k Pro motor.

Heres a pic of the body.

[JimmyMac]

Racer TC3 with threaded shocks and IRS chassis. And of course it free rolls when I spin it without a motor.

[low88gmc]

here is my setup for a tight indoor carpet.
front suspension
80wt oil, white springs, no bar, purple tire, 5mm ride hight(very important), 2 deg kickup, o deg caster block no bump, middle hole on tower
Rear suspension
70wt oil, purple springs, no bar, pink tire, 5mm ride hight, 0 degree anti-spuat, 2 degree toe in, middle hole on tower

This should be a good starting point, also have a one way

[ScoobEmaxx]

I am looking at getting a tc3 rtr as i have lil time to build kits. I have had an e-maxx for 2 months which is real good but need a car to bash about in car parks.
I never seen a tc3 and wondered how much ground clearance the rtr has.
i noticed the the LRP runner esc has a motor limit of 17t. Switching to a 17t motor is something i could do once i wear out the 19t but can anyone tell me how much faster the car will be with a 17t?
As the car is just for fun i think it will be fine for my needs.
Thanks for any help

[Crazy Canuck]

If you add the spacers, you could probably get the ride height to 8 or 9 mm.

The 17 turn will not be significantly faster than the 19t, though slightly.

[ScoobEmaxx]

Reason i ask about ground clearance is that i was originally going to get a rally car but i noticed that there is a rally kit for the tc3 and so that means i have the best of both worlds if i get the kit as well.
One more question please. Will any 190mm unpainted bodies fit the tc3 or is there only a selection to choose from?

[low88gmc]

The tc3 is a 190mm car, if you get the rally kit, you will then have a 200mm car, then buy the according body for your car

[BlueBoy]

Has anybody tried replacing the white stealth lube in the diffs with Factory Team Green Slime? I just rebuily my diff and put the Slime in by mistake, but it really seems smoother than the normal greese. Does anybody know if it will harm/wear my diffs more than the white greese?
Thanks

[low88gmc]

I was curious if anyone has any concrete setups, I have never ran outside off of carpet, will tell my setup secrets for carpet

[Bryan_35]

Hey guys,

Well my TC3 finally arrived! To celebrate I bought a new Tamiya 2001 Calsonic Skyline Body but there's a problem. The body comes with the body holes pre-drilled for the Tamiya cars and the holes don't match up with my TC3!

Is there any way I can buy some kind of body post that is bent or can be adapted to line the holes up, at least on the front of the car? I really don't want to have an extra set of body holes on this awesome body.

Thanks,

Bryan_35

[low88gmc]

Bryan

You could try to bend the post with a heat gun but I don't know that you would want to do that as the post might not be long enough. It would be something to try if it is really worth it to you. I would just get a stratus and call it a day. Off the subfect but I drove a real stratus and it kicks ass. Nice car in real life.

[low88gmc]

Bryan, I forgot but you could also try making an extension on the mounts out of aluminum by attaching the aluminum to the post with screws and screwing a post to aluminum with a nut and hole in the little plate, like an L shape and a hole on both end and run a support plate between the two post. E-mail me for intimate details.

[Mac]

I posted this in another area, but I think it is more appropriate here....

I am new to the touring/on-road scene...

I have an indoor carpet and outdoor oval and on-road course near my house. I would like to participate in as much as I can... If I get a TC3, can I use it on the carpet oval, asphalt oval, and road course? Would springs and tires be all I need to change?

Most guys around here run L3's on the carpet and asphalt oval.... Could I run a TC3?

[BlueBoy]

yeah you can run the TC3 on any sort of on road/carpet track as long as it's not too bumpy. The TC3 won't be as fast as the L3 though (with the same equipment) because of the 4WD.

[Mac]

The speed is not that important (I am not that good to worry about speed yet!)..... What kind of tires would you recommend for carpet? Asphalt?

[BlueBoy]

For carpet; either foams (sorry not sure what compound) or Schumacher Mini Pins, yellow or blue compound, but only if your track allows them, most tracks don't cause they can cut up the carpet apparently. I have had no problem with Pins, they give a lot more grip than foams in my opinion.
For asphault you want rubber slicks, but there are absolutely loads of differnet makes, Sorex, Proline, Pit Shimizu, Take Off etc etc that you should just go to the track and find out what the fast guys are running.

[Mac]

do you run foams on front and rear?

[BlueBoy]

I dont run foams at all, but the guys who do use them run them all round.

[Scrad]

You should use blue, double blues or purple and double purple compound from Jaco/Proline. And yes use them front and rear. As for shocks run 35 or 40 weight all around and use the springs that come with the kit. Try for 4mm of ground clearance and I think 6 for droop setting. I also run a sway bar on the rear, but you may not need it. I'd also get a few springs. All of this should get you started for carpet.

I was running green compound, but its to soft and the car would traction roll. If you have the money get the purple compound. (they are usually a few dollars more).

[Mac]

Ok, now remember, I am a newbie..... What is droop setting?

[rc-jockey]

Aluminum Main Drive Shaft is it worth it? $20 isn't a whole lot but if the stock factory works why bother?
eye candy :confused:

[Scrad]

If you have the manual it shows you how to set it when you are building. There is a little measuring tool for it too with the kit. But its how far the a-arms hang down (travel downward) from the chassis. Check it when the shocks are off.

[Crazy Canuck]

Droop is the amount of down travel the shocks have. If the rear have more down travel, that will give the car less steering on power, because more weight can be transferred to the rear tires. More down travel would give the car more on pwer steering, and the front is similar.

For now, stick with the factory setting. When you get better, you can use it to setup your car.

[Bryan_35]

low88gmc,

Thanks. I think I understand what you're describing. It shouldn't be too hard to put something like that together. I'll let you know how it works out.

Bryan_35

[dkangel]

O.k This may have been asked before but I am upgrading the stock 27 tunr motor that came with my team model and i am looking into a 19 turn motor.
Any suggestions? Nothing crazy, trying to keep the costs reasonable.
Also what pinion/spur would I use? Right now I have a 26/72
Being used outdoors on asphalt/concrete.

Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.. :) :D

[JimmyMac]

Reedy has a brand new very nice 19T motor. I beleive you can get it with and/or without bearings. Obvious choice is with bearings. Trinity also has the Chameleon and Chameleon 2. I think those are basically your only two choices. Maybe an Orion 19t if it's out. Fantom and other companies have 19T motors as well which are great. They are based off of Epic Cans. Same thing that the Chameleons are based off of. As far as gearing stick with what you ran it with for your stock motor. 26/72 I beleive. Thats assuming what the manual is saying. Hope this helps...

Jimmy Mac

[dkangel]

Thanks for the reply Jimmy,
I'll check those out...

[HauntedMyst]

These are my two new TC3 RX-7 skins for this weekend.

[HauntedMyst]

And this one

[Crazy Canuck]

Those look good, now you just have to keep the wheels clean:p

Heres a tip: If you use the clip on heatsink, attach it to your motor, and mark the area where the cooling vents in the motor are. Then dremel that part out, it really improves cooling.

[Porsche]

Ok guys I really need help. I just burned up My cyclone today due to my gearing. So I need to know what gearing to use with a 9*2 Fantom Mod. Now I have to redue the neg. wire and see if it still works. If not I have to send it off to get fixed!!!!
Thanks for all your time,
Chrisotpher Owens
Mech2003@worldnet.att.net:(

[FireFly980]

Originally posted by Crazy Canuck
Those look good, now you just have to keep the wheels clean:p

Heres a tip: If you use the clip on heatsink, attach it to your motor, and mark the area where the cooling vents in the motor are. Then dremel that part out, it really improves cooling.

Then why even use a heat sink? Also, doesn't dremeling out a heat vent on the heat sink weaken it? With all the air flow through a motor, I'm wondering if a heat sink is accomplishing anything. I would like some comments from some people with experience in this area! Thanks.
:cool:

[JimmyMac]

Just use the gearing recommended with in the Manual. And make sure your gear mess is not too tight or tooo loose. You shouldn't have any problems at all. I run an 8x2 with my GM V12xc with no problems at all. I run about one tooth higher than recommended because I race on a large track. Is your Cyclone hooked up like the manual says? Do you have a Cap and Skotchy Diode on it as well? Just some things to consider.

[Crazy Canuck]

I have to run a 25/72 with a P2K2. The track is really tight. I use the Shoticky (sp?) diode and capacitor, so thats not the problem.

I find the motor runs the same temp with or without the hatsink, but much cooler with the drilled heatsink.

[b3man]

does anybody have a ft tc3 that they would be willing to trade for a ftt3? i know this isnt the wanted forum but noone has helped, so i figured that i would come to the best group to help me get one. thank you

[James414]

I have a TC3 Racer that I have a 9 turn Speed gems in. THe problem that I am having is that I have a 17 turn motor that is able to move the car much faster than the 9 turn. I have the 72 spur mated to the 22 pinion on the nine and I have a 28 pinion to a 72 spur for the 17. I think it is the batteries I have 1500 sport packs. just looking to see whats up
.

[James414]

Another question? What is the best motor for the TC3? I would also like the names of a few very High torque motors?

[Dingus]

James,

Your combo of motor, batts, gearing is all dependent on the use.

Are you racing? There is no such thing as the best motor, just the best for each application and even then there will be differences in opinion and driving style.

From what you said, it sounds like you are overgearing both motors. The starting place for a 9 turn is a 19 tooth pinion and a 26 for a 17 turn. Also, what are the winds of each. A single wind will have much more torque than a triple.

1500 sport packs are really not enough for hot mods. Do they get very hot? Then you gotta think about maintenance for the mods. Cutting coms and replacing brushes etc.

I run a 25t pinion with a P2k2 and 3000 smh batts and that is plenty of speed for my track at least in stock class.

Finally, I would check out the tuning guide from associated for tips on gearing and everything else.

[James414]

the 9 turn is a speed gems 2 and it is a double wind, the 17 is a triple. I know that I am overgeared on the 9 turn but for the 17 the motor will not get hot until I run the third consecutive pack at full speed for all three packs. I think that is is the batteries plus the fact that the nine turn motor needs a comm cut very bad. I bought it used for 15.00.

by the way my application is just bashing around a parking lot with a friend of mine

I started the 17 turn motor on a 26 tooth pinion and the motor did not get hot for all four batteries, so i figured I could run a larger pinion.

Now the other thing that may be happening and it may als be the reason nothing seems to be getting hot is the current limiter on my ESC may be broken. I emailed Novak (I have a Dually) and they said that there should be a stop on the pot so that you can not spin it a full circle well mine can spin around and around. So that may be why everything is staying cool and running soooooo slooow.


How do the stock motors run?


ANd has anyone heard of a 96 mph TC3? A friend of mine saw a website that showed one and he can't remember the website and I can't find it

[Dingus]

If you are just bashing, then don't get a stock motor. In my opinion, they are mostly based on tradition. Bushings, 27 turns, 24 fixed degrees, not too efficient and won't last long.

Maybe try a mild mod with bearings. Lower winds = more torque lower turns = more speed.

Your motors should definitely be hot after each run. You must have something wrong. My stockers get quite hot after a 5 min heat even geared properly.

About gearing, it need to based on more than heat. Heat is one indicator the motor could be getting damaged. An overgeared motor will not run as fast because the motor does not have the torque to turn the taller ratio. It will also lack punch.

Maybe try a chameleon 19t single from trinity. It is a new spec class motor, but is faster and more torque than stock with ball bearings. Or maybe a Trinity Retro.

RCCA had the coverage of the 96 mph TC3...pretty crazy.

[JimmyMac]

Motors don't have to get hot. Depends on outside temp too. I ran my GM3 on our large track Sunday and it only got luke warm if that! Even my 8x2 was luke warm after the mains! My gearing? About equal to one tooth over manual recommendation. Track temp was between 80-98 during the course of the day. Also my whole drive train is quite smooth too. Take the motor out and it'll spin for several seconds. If you drive smooth, you'll be more efficient as will your electronics. Drive rough, and you'll over heat everything. Just my 2¢

Jimmy Mac

[James414]

It turns out that I did break the Current Limiter on the ESC. I have fine tuned it to get it to goo off and things are going much smoother. I still have to take it ot and get it fixed though so I know it will work right everytime.

[HauntedMyst]

After reading of their sucess here, I bought both the front and rear BRP racing bumpers and they have turn out to be a god send to the TC3. Before Bud's, some breaks, after Bud's, no breaks. However, they do add wieght to the car. At our track, we've lightened them just using a body reamer. They are made of Kydex which is pretty durable stuff. Just ream out an even pattern, making sure to leave enough material to absorb an impact.

[Porsche]

I have the front and need to buy the back. But it is alife saver in the front. Just think of losing contol in a turn and your front smashing into the wall. With out buds you would be without front a arms!! I am fixing to buy one for the rear. I can say that I am not as worried in the rear. Me and my friend were running our cars in the street. Well I started to stop my TC3 and he plowed my rearend over with the gas rally car( bigger and a lot heavier then my TC3). I knew something would be wrong but everything was perfect.
THANKS TO EVERYONE who helped with my gearing problem!!!!
Thanks
Christopher Owens

[HauntedMyst]

Here is the front:

[HauntedMyst]

and the rear:

[Dingus]

You can actually cut the original tc3 bumper down a bit to save on weight a bit as shown.

I do not use the rear bumper, but rather the nerf bars to protect the rear arms. The tc3 is very sturdy when hit hard, but seems to shatter like glass when barely tapped. So make sure you hit stuff hard if you're going to! lol

[Crazy Canuck]

Yeah, but cutting that bumper causes the buds bumper to break more easily.

HM, why are you using softer springs in the front than the back? Is it a preference thing, or what? Ive tried that, but with limited sucess.

Thanks

[Dingus]

I doubt it would make much difference. I run mine with the bumper cut and have easily survived many hard hits. Not sure with the holes reamed, but the material seems more likely to bend than break.

IMO, the original bumper portion that is cut is too flimsy to offer much support anyway. They usually end up broken and dragging after a while. That's why they get cut so often.

[Crazy Canuck]

It does actually make a difference, Ive tried it. The Buds bumper cracks around the remaining part of the plastic.

[HauntedMyst]

you can see I've taken a number of hits on the car and it hasn't busted yet. At $7 a piece, I look at it as a disposable product since it's easier to replace then the arms.


I tried this set up and it seems to work for me so far. Have you had better luck with the reds up front?

[Crazy Canuck]

I run on carpet, and I use purple in front and copper in the back.

I find with softer in the front there is way too much steering, its better to use a one-way to acheive the same effect.

Edit: sorry, I meant softer in the front.

[RcLaB1]

Please post things for sale in the "Buy/Sell/Trade forum. Thanks.

-Steve

[SR20]

Anyone put XXX-S caster block on TC3? The caster block on my TC3 breaks everyweek on the track, so I am really tired of it. But now, I put a set of XXX-S caster block on it and it works perfect. The car feels 100% more stable and lot more steering..

[rcpainter]

Who knows what a locked diff is and what does it do? I saw that B. Baker used it in South Africa. It's not a one-way or a regular diff. (source: AE site)

He also used rear shock towers on both ends of his car and different a-arms is there a reason?

Thanks

[Crazy Canuck]

A locked diff makes a solid axle (he probably used it on the rear). When combined with a front oneway, its like driving an 1/8 scale gas car. It gives unbelievable corner speed.

[rcpainter]

He used it in the front:confused: :confused:

[Dingus]

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?threadid=29&goto=newpost


Just scroll up a bit. There is some discussion about the shock towers and the locked front diff from Tony Phalen who got 3rd in Open Mod.

[SFGP.RACER]

I'm intrested in the TC3 and don't know too much or anything at all about electric cars..SO i wonder if you guys would be kinda nuff to help me understand...I have nitro....So not too sure to make the switch or have both....Batteries are the biggest thing that I'm not sure about do you need lots of cells aren't they expensive?? It would be great if you guys could help...?

[Crazy Canuck]

Assuming you have a radio, and all the tools etc, from your Nitro, all you would need is a charger and some batteries.

Chargers vary greatly, anywhere from 50-200 bucks. Some of the high end ones require a power supply, so thats even more, another 100 bucks

Batteries can be expensive, or cheap, depending on what you get. If you want to race, you should probably get 3000s, which are the high end cells right now. If you just want to bash, you would probably want to get some stick packs, which are much cheaper. You can get deals, like 2 good packs for 50 bucks, on bashing packs. The high end race cells usually go for $70-100 per pack.

[UrbanCowboy]

How fast can the T3 electric touring cars go. Also, if you have the info, could you tell me how fast the nitro counter parts go? Thanks

[Dingus]

96 mph.

http://www.rccaraction.com/articles/need_speed.asp

That's the record anyway. Typical speed will depend upon application and equipment. Expect low 30's with a stock motor in the top end.

A lot of tracks that run both nitro and electric will find the faster lap times with the electrics for various reasons.

Top end in a typical nitro tourer will be 40's to 50's with a 2 speed.

If you are deciding what to get you need to do a lot of research first. I would recommend electric first, but I am a little biased. If you want to race, you need to know what is more common in your area.

What are your intentions?

[atm92484_3]

Cowboy, Dingus pretty much hit that one on the head with the speeds. I have a Team TC3 with a P2k motor and a Team Nitro TC3 with a 12 TR engine. Like he said, the TC3 tops out at around 30 mph. However, I get pretty good run times (10 minutes + with 1500 packs). With the Nitro TC3, me and my friends clocked it at 58 mph; it was moving but you also need a decent sized area to run the car. A car moving 50 mph even covers a parking lot pretty fast.

[UrbanCowboy]

Oh don't worry about me. I researched RC vehicles for three weeks before I bought My E-MAXX. I just know that I am going to want to get into racing before too long so I'm starting to look into it. Thanks for the replies.

[AssociatedRacer]

I just got a Tc3...im excited!

[AssociatedRacer]

u guys mind if i make a new thread, this ones getting pretty long...

[Crazy Canuck]

This ones fine, just keep it...

When we get to the level of the RC10GT thread, we can start a new one.

[AssociatedRacer]

i was looking at the car yester, and i found out the front has toe out...I race offroad, and u would never have toe out in the front? same for onroad?

[Grizzbob]

Pretty much, toe out may allow it to turn into corners more aggressively, but it'll make it unstable on the straights. If I were you, I'd try to set the front toe to as close to 0 degrees as you can get it, that seems to be the most useable setting....:)

[AssociatedRacer]

alright thnx...i was thinking about getting this heatsink:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1738297101

what do u think about it?

O ya what heatsink does mark pavidis run?

[Crazy Canuck]

That one looks really good, its got vent holes. Go for it.

[T9D]

"vent holes", as you call them, are worse than solid aluminum. Air has worse thermal conductivity than aluminum, which is why heatsinks are used. They use the better thermally conducting aluminum or copper to conduct the heat into fins, where they can be cooled by greater amounts of air due to the larger surface area.

[AssociatedRacer]

I see, then why do all the team drivers at my track make air holes in their heatsinks? Which one do the factory team drivers use? All i know is they use the motor clamp such as in the Racer/Team kit, then use a heatsink that covers the rest of the motor. Does AE sell it?

[T9D]

They could be making air holes because they are misinformed. I believe the factory drivers use solid heatsinks.

[AssociatedRacer]

they do use solid, but the shave it where the motor vents are, which that motor has already done. All the air in the motor needs to be ventallated also...

[T9D]

The holes on the ebay one looked very big for just motor vents.. I'd wager the team drivers have sinks with custom holes exactly where the vents are, I'd say if they aren't ONLY where the motor vents are, they're less efficient.

[AssociatedRacer]

ya, i see your point...Do you know who sells those big solid aluminum ones? i think associated does, but i didnt find it on hobbypeople's sight, i think i might go check there..

[AssociatedRacer]

O ya, do any of u guys have AIM?>

[T9D]

Associated makes them, and you can buy them from Tower Hobbies

[AssociatedRacer]

can u find the link please? all i can find is those radial ones...

[T9D]

the radial ones are solid aluminum =/

[AssociatedRacer]

but there only like half of the motor. Also mark pavidis uses one where the fins are all the same length, i think..

[Crazy Canuck]

Ummm, you need vent holes for the vents in the motor to work. They are there for a reason. If I wrapped you completely in aluminum, would you be hotter, or colder? And would you want a hole for your mouth?

I certainly think so.

AE makes 2 kinds of heatsinks: one is a short version, for use with the long motor clamp, and one is a long version, for use with the short motor clamp (which is stock for Racer, Team, and RTR versions)

[Crazy Canuck]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXTG84&P=7

This is the one you want. Drill holes in it (or Dremel) where the motor vents are. Make them generous so the motor can be moved slightly, and so you can accomidate different motors.

[T9D]

If you wrapped me in an aluminum heatsink, I would be much colder than if you just, say, put it on my arms and legs. If heatsinks were worse than nothing, why would we use them? Open up your computer. Look at the processor. Is there a big "air hole" in the heatsink above the processor core? No, because the whole idea of a heatsink is that is cools BETTER than air alone.

[atm92484_3]

There also isn't air being pushed across the computers heatsinks while the computer drives around; there is only a small fan. Before you hack up a heatsink, consider this; wouldn't the manufacturers put airholes if they were needed?

jmo

[T9D]

There is quite a bit of air being pushed across the heatsink in high-end computers which put out a lot of heat. Computer cores put out FAR more heat than ANY motor. Associated does not put holes in their heatsinks, and other manufacturers may do it because misinformed people think that they make them cool better.

[Crazy Canuck]

Ok then, try it. Het a temp gun. Go to your local track, and make runs with no heatsink, with a heatsink, and with a drilled heatsink. Check the temp each time. I think you'll be quite surprised.

[T9D]

Not going to take the time/money to prove such a simple concept to a bunch of people I don't know. If you'd like to do it, that's fine by me.

[AssociatedRacer]

hey Crazy Canuck is that the heatsink all the factory people use?

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Hey guys... what is the sxact diffrences between racer, team and FT? can anyone say it specifcally?

[Dingus]

http://www.teamassociated.com/

click on Electric TC3 and scroll down

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

they have a chart thingy but it's really basic

[Dingus]

What kind of info are you looking for?

The designs are the same on all three cars. Really, only the materials and some equipment are different.

The graphite will make the car slightly more responsive and a little lighter.

The threaded shock bodies are very handy for adjusting.

The aluminum stuff looks pretty and is a little lighter. Just don't assemble the car with blue screws with the allen wrenches provided. They will strip very fast.

The RTR is great for novices, but not necessarily for novices who wish to race. The esc has reverse which is not allowed and the motor is technicnally a mod, even though it is slower (top end) than a "stock."

The factory team does not come with a body or tires/wheels. Those would get changed immediately anyway if racing.

All three versions will perform well if setup and driven well.

Anything else?

[Crazy Canuck]

TEAMLOSIRACER: I think so, but Im not sure.

The FT stuff, except the titanium turnbuckles, is mostly for racers. If your not racing, stick with the racer. I dont reccomend the Team, either go all out or hold back.

[TC3NME]

I am using purple orange foams on my TC3 24mm in front and 28mm in back what is the difference between these and other purple compound tires? Also are they better or worse on a tight asphalt track treated with coke? I also notice the inside wheel rubs the top inside, how can I fix this? I have only run 3 mains so far (one day!) and my car looks like it is a year old :D

My set up is a FT TC3 with these tires and all other parts that came with kit.
P2K Pro DYNO at 31,700
LRP Quantum Comp
HiTec servo 5945MG (stripped the futaba 9101 on the first lap)
Speed6 body (well, whats left of it:rolleyes: )
Ballistic Batteries 3000HV matched packs
Quasar Pro for charging
Futaba 3pjs pcm with 1024 reciever ( Please help with proper setting for this track set up, Keep in mind I cant drive!)

I just ordered BRP nerfs, front and rear bumpers, trinity blue foam bumper, 350Z body, RPM motor station, extra crystals, and futaba gear set.

Is there anything else I need besides driving skill. I will be racing only. I had only run a T-Maxx prior and am new to electric. Hopefully I started off right.:cool:

[Crazy Canuck]

Make sure you have the springs and shock oils on hand to tune your car.

[AssociatedRacer]

Anyone know good, long lasting, tires for Socal? thats where ill be racing, and do you guys know if the old setup at AE's website still works for socaL?TIA

[TC3NME]

I use Trinity Death Grip sauce. Would I get better results with 24mm all around?
Please define push when I pull the throttle my car pushes forward when I pull more it pushes faster :D
Why are you suprised about the foam?
Are rubber tires better?
I ordered the RPM ball cups because mine pop off in a crash, should I use them?
You mentioned springs and oil, which ones should I have on hand? Should I buy the complete assortment? How do I know which ones to use?

This car is is sick fast and barely controlable:p I ride the rail the whole time I do the oval:D

[Dingus]

Push is when you turn and the car does not. The wheels slip and push instead of gripping and turning. AKA understeer.

I personally think foams are better, but a lot of tracks just allow rubber unless carpet is involved and even then sometimes...

RPM ballcups are great, but you will have to modify them a bit. You will probably have to cut them to length for one. Also, if you use them on the steering you will need to shave a bit off the top of the cup that attaches to the rack so it clears the drive shaft.

Obviously, you need to do the same on the rear carriers so it will clear the wider wheels.

I would guess the rear tires are hooking up much more than the front due to the width and are causing the fronts to lose grip.

I would ask for setup help from someone at your track. Basically, just find a guy whose car looks good and copy his setup. Then make small adjustments to suit your driving. Make one change at a time, then test.

I have seen 28mm foams used for the most part, but I have never been to your track.

Whether rubber is better than foam, good luck finding a consensus on that one. However, one probably works better than the other on your track.

[JimmyMac]

I run Foams on the parking lot track here. I use TRC Purples up front and TRC Magenta's rear. Setup is Barry Bakers Reedy 2002 setup (except I use a oneway with the old a-arms). You could use that or the kit setup. Also if your car is oversteering, you can tune it out by adjusting the Dual Rates on your radio (if it has it.) Anyways I use it for both Mod and Stock class. For Stock it is the perfect setup here. The car is just planted and goes where I want when I want. I find that with this setup with rubbers, my car pushes pretty bad. With same compound foams all the way around, the car will be TOOO loose. With Magenta's in the rear, just perfect. They do/did rub on my RPM ball cups. But they have clearance now. Also with the oneway, if you let off to take a turn you'll spin out. You have to partially let off and then ease onto the throttle while taking the turn. Its a balancing act. But it will yeild faster lap times once you learn it. Anyways, just my experience with foams on asphalt.

[Dingus]

How have the foams held up on the asphault? Any chucking or tearing?

I kind of lean toward foams being used everywhere. Too much $$$ to experiment with rubber and inserts that just don't seem to last very long.

[AssociatedRacer]

how much does it cost for a pair of foams? i dont think my track allows them though, and how long do they last?

[Dingus]

I use TRC Plaid and Purple for carpet racing and they cost about $20 a pair from my LHS.

I don't true them down at all, so they are a bit tall to start with. The plaids will chuck at my track, but if you are careful and good at finding and gluing, they will last a while. Maybe 30 to 40 plus runs with traction compound on carpet? Guess I should keep track better. Seems like an eternity since I have bought tires. Plus they get better and better as they wear down.

Also, the chunks don't always make a huge diffference in handling. If they are properly glued back...almost zero difference. Chunks from the middle...not that noticeable. Chunks from the sidewall...definitely bad.

[TC3NME]

The purple - orange tires held up well to my torture. Our track racers notice they hold up better than others.

I fried my quantum somehow and now will not set. The lights just blink like it is Christmas:confused:. Associated said it would be covered under warranty. Lucky it has a lifetime warranty with guys like me buying them.

[JimmyMac]

For carpet I used Plaids and Purples, but that was with my XXX-S and Yokomo. Never tried the TC3 on carpet. Only time they'll chuck is if I mess up or someone else messes up into me. :p As far as asphalt, my foams don't chuck unless if it's a bad crash with another car. Wear? Hmmmm hard to say. Make sure you rotate from left to right after each heat. I've only run about 2 race days on them so far with plenty to go. (Last season I ran foams outdoors but shaved them down for indoor.) My rubber tires lasted about hmmmmm 6 full race days. Could possibly go for 10. If you took car of them. I dunno, you could break even (foams vs. rubbers) or you might not. Just depends on track conditions. I can't say what it good for yours. But here Foams are the way to go. (so far) ;)

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

If you have a push, I would think to soften the spring setup, put a sway bar in the front, and or get a much softer foam insert, to give the tire a little more roll. P.S. Do glue the tires o the rims. I forgot to do that once-can you say skattin' on jagged rims? hehehe :)

[jkerr0043]

I have a little weight problem. I could use to shave a couple of ounces off my car, mostly off the left side. My radio gear is pretty light and according to my trusty tweak station, I'm heavy on the left side of the car. I've got a racer kit but I've added Ti turnbuckles, aluminum screws, motor heat sink, threaded shocks, counterfeit transponder, and sway bars. Any ideas?