Associated TC3 Forum v1.0

[BlueBoy]

How about changing some plastic items for the lighter graphite parts. If you want to lose weight on the left, just use graphite on that side, and the stock plastic parts on the right side. Try this with wishbones and chassis braces.
If that sounds a little hack to you, then just adjust the preload on the shocks until the tweak station levels.

[Crazy Canuck]

And dont run with the counterfeit transponder in your car. Use it only for simulating the weight of a transponder.

[TC3NME]

So if I put a sway bar in front it will prevent understeer? It says in the AE directions that a sway bar cancels the akerman set-up. Isn't the Akerman set-up a good thing to keep?
Do I need an assortment of springs or are the ones that came with the FT kit silver and copper good enough? You said softer springs, which ones? front or rear? Theres like 8 options.

[BlueBoy]

TC3NME:

In my experience an anti roll bar at the front will increase understeer. If you want more steering put a bar on the back. Just remember: When you put an anti roll bar on one end of the car, traction at that end is decreased.

For shock settings, the following works for me on carpet:
Front
Copper springs, 60wt oil
Back
Gold springs, 50 wt oil

Maybe get the blue, red and purple springs as well so you have something else to try.

[TC3NME]

If I was to put hard springs like white on the front and leave silver in back with a sway bar with 28mm in back and 24mm in front on sticky asphalt will I hook up better? I race bi-weekly at a home depot and to track is removed after race day and have only an hour to practice before the heats, I need to set it up with out running the car. The guys I run with come from out of town so I only see them on rece day and they are to busy setting up their car to help me. Thats why I'm posting here. Hopeing to learn a little RC magic:D

[BlueBoy]

Not too sure about using such hard springs as well as an anti roll bar, in fact I would steer clear of using very hard springs at one end and very soft at the other. It's a balance thing.

Also, a harder spring at the front will decrease traction at that end, and the roll bar would decrease traction at the rear, therfore you are not gaining anything. I would say to go the other way with springing at the front; go softer.

I would just try the anti roll bar at the rear and maybe go one step harder on the springs at the rear as well. If you have time, just make one change at a time, so you can track your progress.

[JimmyMac]

Sway bar up front reduces steering. Put the sway bar the rear. Also try to keep the tires the same size all the way around. I use a Blue Spring up front and a Silver in the Rear. Sway bars all around. 30wt all around too. Don't forget you also can change your rear arm mounts to get different rear toe or anti-sqaut. Or your front arm mounts to get different caster or kickup. Here is my setup for the parking lot track I race with foam tires....

FRONT
Caster 4°
Kickup 0°
Toe-Out 0-0.5°
Camber 1°
Ride Height 5mm
Bump Steer washer .100
Standard Sway Bar
Threaded Shocks #2 piston
30wt oil
Spring Blue
Rear Shock tower on front
Shock mount in middle
Camber link inner upper
Droop 5


REAR
Anti-Squat 2°
Toe-in 2°
Camber 1°
Ride Height 5-6mm
Standard Sway Bar
Short Wheel Base
Threaded Shocks #2 piston
30wt oil
Spring Silver
Shock mount in middle
Camber link inner upper on tower
Camber link outter on hub
Droop 4


Other
Tires TRC Purple Front/Magenta Rear
Oneway Front
Battery Front
Gearing depends on motor (stock or mod)

Try this setup if you can get the parts (another rear shock tower for the front, optional arm mounts, 4° Carrier Blocks, and sway bars.) If you don't have a Oneway don't worry, it might be easier for you to drive without one. Just don't forget to dial out your oversteer from your radio. Turn the Dual Rates down so that your wheels don't turn as much. This is the best way to tune the car for oversteer. If this doesn't help.. THEN you can tune the car.. springs, camber, caster, etc..... Anyways, hope this helps!

Jimmy Mac

[TC3NME]

Thanks everyone for the help. Thanks KilRuf I will try your set-up this saturday. I will only have the option of JACO orange/purple 24mm or 28mm tires. Which size should I use? I have the speed 6 body and 350Z bodies, which do you think is better?
How do I check and adjust for anti-squat and what squats, the rear? How do I adjust kick-up to a degree and what does that do? Droop how is that set to a degree and what is that for?

Why a rear shock tower on the front?

I have an RPM toe and camber gauge, are these useful? the toe gauge is not set for degrees how are you doing it?

Maybe I should invest in a Hudy station I think the advertisement mentioned those setting possibilities. Do I also need something like the trinity laser tweak board or will the Hudy balance my car and tell me where the weight is?

If you have not guessed I am still a newbie but a fast learner:D

Is the bar with "R+2+2" 2 deg. anti squat and 2 deg. toe-in?
Is "F-0" bar 0 deg. caster?

Also can someone post the sway bar installation instructions. I can not locate mine. Thank you.

[clemsnfan]

Maybe a silly newbie question but ,I'm just curious as to how fast a tricked out TC3 can go..are the speeds of an electric car comparable to a gas powered? Not sure whether I should get a gas powered or an electric. Thanks.

[jkerr0043]

Are the graphite parts going to be lighter than aluminum? It seems to me like they would be but I'm not too sure.

[BlueBoy]

Yes they would be. In fact, I think even the stock plastic parts would be lighter than aluminum replacements

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by clemsnfan
Maybe a silly newbie question but ,I'm just curious as to how fast a tricked out TC3 can go..are the speeds of an electric car comparable to a gas powered? Not sure whether I should get a gas powered or an electric. Thanks.

A TC3 with a lower turn motor and 6 cells is good for atleast 40 mph. Get an ESC that can handle 12 cells and you're good for atleast 60 mph. The Nitro TC3 with a halfway decent engine will pull 55 mph with no problems. I have a NTC3 with a 12 TR and the car is pretty fast (58 mph fast). It takes less money to make a nitro fast, but electrics have more potential when it comes to speed.

[JimmyMac]

TC3NME You are correct about the R+2+2. But for the front.. the F-0 means 0 kickup. With the stock car and Caster Blocks.. it also means 0 Caster. I run the F-0 with a 4° Block. As for Droop, best way it to read your directions. It descripes it there and how to set it. All TC3's come with a Droop guage (unless if you bought yours used.) :p

Tires hmmm I'd go with 28mm all around. Thats what TRC tires are. As for compound... I don't know what Orange is on the scale. Whichever is softer, they will go in the rear. If you don't, your car will spin and slide everywhere! Bodies... uhhh pick up a Stratus or 300M. I'm not too sure about the bodies that you have. Whichever has the biggest wing in the back.

I use the RPM camber gauge. Works great. The Hudy system would be nice if you want to spend the money on it. Sway bar installation is also in the TC3 manual. If you don't have one, try the AE site for a downloadable one. I can't remember if they have one or not.

Rear tower on the front is suppose to give you more steering. Hope this helps... well let me go. Gotta start setting up my TC3's for this weekend!

[dusterk]

hey guys. I cant seem to find these items at tower. Could someone give me the links to them please. Im also getting the brb front bumper. Which foam bumper should I get to go on ie. Trinity or RPM?

Thanks
Dusty

[TC3NME]

I got the Trinity blue foam bumper and BRP plastic bumper form tower. Use the mfg. #'s BRP is 6235 and Trinity is #7036b or look under 1/10 bumber.

[AssociatedRacer]

hey, my motor clamp broke at the 90degree angle where hte non-spring screw is. Should i buy the small motor clamp and get long heatsink, or should i buy the big motor clamp with the small heatsink?

[AssociatedRacer]

one more thing, anyone know where the cheapest place to get a FT Tc3 is?

[TC3NME]

If you want new without dealing with e-bay ultimate hobbies is 269.95 and tower hobbies will match that price and tower also has a 15.00 off deal they will apply which makes 255.00 plus shipping. Sometimes a local hobby shop will match towers price to equal the total including shipping which for me came out to 263.00 total. Look through rc car action find the lowest prices and tower will match and have almost everything. I saved over 300.00 on a 1000.00 order that way.

Be careful with those heat sinks. I had one fall off in a crash which caused me to lose the A main . I think the aluminum long with aluminum short will work best just make sure you use a small piece of servo tape to keep it on your motor.

Kilruf your set-up worked great but my servo failed me. It is a new 5945mg and would not go back to center it would only stay hard left or right. Everytime I centered it it would just do it again. Any ideas?

[Dingus]

TC3NME,

What esc are you running? You need one that puts out a decent amount of amps to power a high torque/speed servo like the 945 MG.

If not that, Hitec and www.rctech.net both have boards where you can post directly to Hitec support. Great servos from Hitec.

[JimmyMac]

Hmmm you got me on the Servo deal. I dunno. I use Airtronics 94257 and 94757. Never had problems with them. I ran that setup in my mod car but had to put the diff in the front instead of the oneway. I was swapping leads in the mod race yesterday. I took the lead with 30 secs left but then my ESC shut down!! ThermoHeat Protection! It protects you from winning the race!! LOL :D Damn... and you spend $150 on a good ESC and look what it does to ya! It was a GM V12XC by the way..... Ended up 3rd.

As for my stock TC3, I ran the setup alittle different. But I would have preferred my Mod setup. (Didn't have 4° Carriers and sway bars for the stock car.) I ran 2° kick up with my 2° Carriers. No sway bars. 40wt up front instead of 30wt. Everything else the same. Won the Stock class by 2 laps. :D I think it was the motor switch from my MVP to my GM3. It was a large track. Oh yeah, I did run the one-way in stock.

You can also try SpeedTechRC for cheap price on the FT TC3. They also sell spare and hop-up parts for the TC3. Plus they have tons of tires and bodies to choose from. They have good service. I also order from Tower as well. Anyways, let me head off... Take it easy!

[AssociatedRacer]

Originally posted by TC3NME

Kilruf your set-up worked great but my servo failed me. It is a new 5945mg and would not go back to center it would only stay hard left or right. Everytime I centered it it would just do it again. Any ideas?

Thats exactly what happen to me, except i got the hitec 5645. What fixed my problem was i loosened those nuts on the Steering rack, and i also tigheten the little rod that turbuckle connects to the servo... It slides smooth now...

o ya thnx for the tower hobbies thingy...

[TC3NME]

Dingus- I am using the LRP quantun Competition ESC. It is suposre to be good although I got one bad out of the box and AE sent me a new one. Thanks for the board I will check it out.

I think it is the servo because I put a futaba 9101 non digital in and it worked fine.

[AssociatedRacer]

Anyone know those Yok tires that people run at socal?

[Dingus]

Yeah, try the boards, they should be able to come up with something.

About the rack. You gotta keep that thing clean. I run the bearings dry because even the slightest amount of oil will attract dust/dirt and gunk it up. Check it by popping off the servo rod end and moving with your finger. Tighten the plastic nuts one at a time with the servo disconnected. It should move freely. I am of the mind that a little slop is better than a little tight.

Good luck, make sure to post what the problem was.

[JimmyMac]

Yeah, what Dingus said. I tighten one nut down until the rack is hard to move. Then I back off very little moving the rack each time until the rack moves freely with binding. Then I do the same with the other nut. The rack has to move nice and smoothly or the servo won't center properly. Anyone try those aluminum racks? Just wondering if those will take out the slop. Been thinking of getting one to try out.

[FactoryTeam]

I said that first and i didnt get any credit:(


j/k

Would bearings make a big differnece in the smoothness of the rack? Also, my car does not roll very smoothly... It makes a little bit of a "clicking noise". I think im going to rebuild the diffs...

[FactoryTeam]

o ya im TEAMLOSIRACER BTW, just thought i should point that out..

[atm92484_3]

FT, it may either be the motor or just the gears. The TC3's drivetrain needs to be broken in so the gears can wear to eachother. If your car has less than maybe half a dozen packs through it, I'd say the drivetrain still isn't fully broken in. Also, the diffs needing rebuilt would only account for the diff action not being smooth; not the whole drivetrain.

good luck

[Dingus]

For clicking, I would check the spur/pinion first. Make sure there is no debris stuck in between the teeth and then check to see if the spur is still round and has no worn spots (flat spots), then investigate from there into the transmission.

But run the car slowly off the ground to see if you can isolate the noise.

[FactoryTeam]

opps, forgot to mention this was pinion less. Also, theres a small line on the pinion, its like 1mm from the end of the pinion thats pointing hte end...

Also, is 1358 alot for a car fully ready to run, with body and everything?

[FactoryTeam]

o ya, does anyone know how much a non-graphite tc3 weighs, just as roller?

[atm92484_3]

$1358? Ya thats a lot, but it really depends on what you are getting. If there is a car along with all of the accessories, a few racing packs, some tools, top of the line radio, digital servo, tires, lathe, and other stuff like that, you could probably come pretty close to that price.

[FactoryTeam]

oooppss... i meant 1358g...

[jkerr0043]

Hey guys, I'm going to be driving up to So Cal sometime in the next few weeks for the first time. Anyone have a good TC3 setup sheet for that track w/ take off tires and a standard front diff? (I hate oneways!) I'll be running stock and I've only run the TC3 on parking lots. I have yet to race on road on a real track.

[jkerr0043]

One other thing, do they tech the cars there? And if they do, what rule book do they use? I weighed it @ 52.5 oz last week and I think some places have a 54 oz rule.

[FactoryTeam]

nah, they just make sure ur motor is a stock motor, only if it looks too fast though... There no regulation on weight either. O ya, the tires that everyone uses are Sorex 36r w/ HPI green inserts...

[Crazy Canuck]

Wow, 1358g is really low. The Roar rule is 1500 g. How did you get it so light?

[RodneyB]

You might get a clicking noise if the screw that holds the bottom of the steering blocks to the block carrier is too long (or overtightened?). It can rub on the CVD. I had that problem once and thought it was the diff/gears as well. Trimmed up the end of the screw with a dremel and the clicking was gone.

[FactoryTeam]

okay...thnx for the info

Teh gear im running is:
LRP 7.1
Super Micro Air rx
Hitec 5645
MVP Plus

Then i have a racer kit with graphite chassis and compenents(i got it like that from a guy that said it was bone stock, but it has a graphite chassis. Its very strange). The FT has alot more aluminum then the racer kit...so my car will get heavier when i get threaded shock bodies & alloy cvds

O ya did u know that 3000SMH are 20g lighter then 2400?

Im not even sure about ultra metal hydrides which they claim to be lighter

[HauntedMyst]

I am currently running an Orion Chrome Stock RS and have been happy with it. With my Fusion, I find I need to add a few teeth, like to 29 or 30 to run on our short twisty track. I also have a P2K2 Pro on an LRP V6. Anyone have a pinion recommendation for this kind of track with the P2K2?

[F1Junkie]

Hi -

This may have been said before but I'll say it again...

I use a motor shim on top of the bearings (bushings) before the final washer goes on. This enables you to tighten the nuts without having any binding. There is a little bit of play but I think this is better than any binding that might occur.

Hope this helps you out....

dave

:D :D :D

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by HauntedMyst
I am currently running an Orion Chrome Stock RS and have been happy with it. With my Fusion, I find I need to add a few teeth, like to 29 or 30 to run on our short twisty track. I also have a P2K2 Pro on an LRP V6. Anyone have a pinion recommendation for this kind of track with the P2K2?

I use a 26/72 on a twisty track, with my P2K2. If you can gear that high, though, you might want to try a 27 or 28.

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by FactoryTeam
okay...thnx for the info

Teh gear im running is:
LRP 7.1
Super Micro Air rx
Hitec 5645
MVP Plus

Then i have a racer kit with graphite chassis and compenents(i got it like that from a guy that said it was bone stock, but it has a graphite chassis. Its very strange). The FT has alot more aluminum then the racer kit...so my car will get heavier when i get threaded shock bodies & alloy cvds

O ya did u know that 3000SMH are 20g lighter then 2400?

Im not even sure about ultra metal hydrides which they claim to be lighter

The Ultra metals are slightly lighter than the SMH, 5 g I think?. The aluminum screws are lighter than the steel, but still, 1350 seems much too light. An XRay is about 1450, and its a really light car.

[HauntedMyst]

Thanks Crazy!

[FactoryTeam]

Actually, if you look in RCCA, youll see that the Xray is heavier then the FT Tc3. The reason being it has the huge aluminum stuff, i.e. bulkheads

[flomofo]

i just bought used ft tc3 and i want to race it at a track in roseville california near sacramento and it has the following things:

jr racing xr3 radio
ft kit (missing some stuff)
reedy ti motor i think its the double wind one
novak tc2 esc
jr racing basic 270 servo
hpi super radials on i think proline white gunby like wheels
and i have a HPI BMW M3 GTR body on order

thats all i got right now and im not sure what else i need , need to replace or what i should even look at as far as things like recievers so im open to all suggestions.

[flomofo]

and also was there any feature in rcca yet with the tc3 where a proffessional racer tells you his set up

[Racin Rev]

flomofo,
You can get setup info from www.teamassociated.com or from pro racer tony phali(e?)n at this thread:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?threadid=29&goto=newpost

I would suggest batteries and a charger. the 959 super brain is an economical charger as long as you don't abuse it.
a good 40 watt or better soldering iron,
good solder,
some pinion gears, (a couple above and below what you now have),
a new stock motor (the 19 turn it comes with is not radical enough for mod and illegal for stock. if you are new sitck with stock for now.)
a package of hub carriers,
the associated nut and bolt assortment,
some serious allan drivers (I use the associated ones, they are not cheap but they work.),
some wheels tires and inserts to replace the ones that you have now (find out what the fast guys on the track are running and copy them, you can use the ones you have for the time being but you will want to go with better tires soon.) ,
some springs of various stiffness.
shock oil when you have found a possible set up you like.

Well, that is a start. I am sure I left some things out but these should keep you buisy for a while.

[UrbanCowboy]

I just had a couple questions and would appreciate any responses.

First, I understand there is a wide range of turns available with motors. My question is, what exactly qualifies for Stock and what qualifies for Modified status? What would be the lowest turn you could run as stock?

I'm currently researching a touring car to race, but currently own an E-Maxx. With the large monster truck, a high tech servo is required. Is this as necessary with touring cars? I would appreciate any servo reccomendations. Thanks

[T9D]

All stock motors are 27 turns, have bushings instead of bearings, along with several other features. Mod motors are 10 turns and more, and motors with less than 10 turns are not allowed.

[UrbanCowboy]

Interesting. So if you're running in the Stock class, you're not going to be able to go very fast regardless. I want to go Electric to avoid the hassle of nitro, but I still want to go 30+mph. I would want to run Modified correct? Thanks a lot of the help. TD9, I appreciated your posts on the heatsinks as well. I never quite understood how they operate.

[rc-jockey]

flomofo,
your going to need a better servo than the stock JR 270, unless you like making HUGE sweeping turns I'd change it.
Checkout a
Hitec HS-925MG
free shipping here,
http://www.servocity.com/Products/Hitec_Servos_/HS-925MG_High_Speed/hs-925mg_high_speed.html

:D
Don't go digital this is all you'll need.

[Dingus]

I agree, get a better servo. I run a 925 MG as well, but I got it for a song.

If money is an issue, go with at least the 525MG or 625MG.

Also, if you plan to run stock, don't drop huge sums of money on batteries. 2400's are plenty, and 2000's will get you through a 5 minute heat. Matched packs are also nice. And stay away from stick packs. Learn to build them, it's not that difficult.

[UrbanCowboy]

I hate how they have these boards setup where you can't search only the Tc3 Forum. Would make things much easier. Anyway, I did read on here somewhere that you should have shocks of various stiffness for the TC3. I'm researching right now what I want to get and I have no clue about shock springs except that I see there is a wide range of strengths. I'm going to be doing street racing at the local hobby shop. They race in the back of the parking lot on semi-smooth concret. What shock springs should I consider? Thanks

[rc-jockey]

Shock springs are very inportant for steering and traction:
Stiffer springs help your suspension respond more quickly and decreases chassis roll, but because of their stiffness they will not absorb bumps as well.
Use stiffer springs in the front for more steering
Softer springs in the rear for more traction conditions.
Green 12.0 lb./in. softer
Silver 14.5
Blue 17.0
Gold 19.5
Red 22.0
Copper 25.0
Purple 30.0
Yellow 35.0
White 40.0 stiffer

I'm using Copper infront and blue in the rear for some what smooth parking lot. I'm going to try Silver in the rear as soon as I buy them.

[flomofo]

i have the 925 mg in my tmaxx is all that torque really necessary?

and i have two 2400 stick packs that i was going to zero resistance plugs on instead of making another battery since i already spent 60 bucks on them but i might make one extra pack of those ones you make yourself but i also want to keep it "streetable because im going to play around with it too not just race it

my reedy ti was already mostly soldered to a zero resistance plug and to the tc3 esc (although it looks messy the case got melted and looks burnt but o well) and the other thing i need info on is recievers because ive been sticking to r133's from jr racing with my xr3 radio

[fast-rc]

Is the tc3 better than the xxx-s. Why should I get the tc3 when its about the same price?

[jkerr0043]

fast-rc,
It depends on what type of racing you're doing and what technology you like. I have a TC3 and I love it. But it does have it's problems, just like any car does. The strong feature to me about the XXXS is the sealed drive train. Eventhough it's a belt drive. I bet nobody running a XXXS has gone through as many belts as I've gone through spur gears getting debris in the exposed gears. I tend to think of the XXXS as more of a parking lot racer that can take a track that may not be as clean as possible and the TC3 being more geared toward the prepared surface and indoor tracks. Just my 2 cents.:)

[rc-jockey]

Parts for the TC3 are everywhere and will be for a long time.

[UrbanCowboy]

What modifications would be required of the TC3 to make it a parking lot racer? Would less stiff springs do the trick?

[jkerr0043]

You don't really need to make any major mods to the TC3. I race on parking lots. The only thing I did to mine is put a small lexan sheild over the gap in the bottom of the chassis that makes room for the spur grear. That seems to be where the most rocks come from. I actually haven't tore up a spur since I did that. As far as springs and shock go, I run 30 wt oil all around w/ #2 pistons, blue springs up front and silver in the rear. -1 degree of camber all around, 0 toe in/out, 2 deg kick up and 2 deg caster, 3 deg reaqr toe in, and make sure the weight is evenly distributed on all four corners. This is a good set up for me on the fairly bumpy tracks I race on.

[JimmyMac]

I posted the parking lot setup I use on page 21. But you really don't need to do much. I've won with a box stock TC3 Racer Kit several times. All you need is driving experience. I'd just go with a basic setup then learn to drive. Once you get that down, then you can adjust setups to meet your driving style and needs. As far as parking lots, if it's fairly clean, you can get away with 64 pitch gears. But I had to switch back to 48 pitch due to pebbles stripping out my 64 pitch spurs. Hmmmm does anyone at the track have any good setups? Or do they not share them? :D Oh yeah, and I'd run a decent body too. I know many people here don't like them, but I run a Stratus. Why? It handles good. I'm sure other Touring car bodies work good too. But please make sure it has enough rear wing. Yeah Viper Bodies may look sweet. But they handle like crap! The car is very loose (rear end comes around too much and all tooo easy.) Why? Rear wing is small. So don't expect my setup or anyone elses to work if you don't use the right body.... (just my 2¢ that I wanted to add :p ) Enjoy!

[jkerr0043]

I agree about learning to drive. You could have the killer setup in the car, but if you can't point it in the right directions, it won't do any good. I also agree about the body. Personally I like the Protoform 300M but I'm thinking about trying the Yokomo Stratus. I've heard it's got a real agressive feel to it.

[cooljoe164]

Hey i put in a P2K pro motor into my TC3 and that thing pushed it to about 30 MPH with a 29 tooth pinion gear(spur being 72T). Now i want to go mod and go faster. I don't want any expensive hand-wound motor, just maybe a speed gem 2. I have a LRP F1 Super reverse ESC that can handle down to 12 turns and i am planning on getting Trinity Panasonic 3000 Ultra metal batteries.

What wind/turn motor should i put in this car? I also don't have a comm cutter and don't plan on using one because i don't race. Would a diamond 12X2 or a Trinity Speed Gem 2 Platinum 13T Triple Motor be better or are they too modified and the comm would have to be cut every few runs? Also, what gearing should i use with the motor(the spur is 72t)? Thanks for your help! :)

[RC10 GuyAZ]

Hey guys, i got a problem. The Ball stud on top of the front block carrier that screws through that and into the steering block seems to come loose after every race. I've been racing for quite some time but I cant seem to find a remedy for it. I've used silicone oil to try and lock it in there, since loc-tite cracks the graphite pieces according to RCCA. This problem is on both sides of the car so I know that the block isn't stripped out. Any ideas?

Also, I found a great motor that works sooo good in the TC3, the P2K2 PRO. You can gear it to run at ideal temperatures from a 25-28 tooth pinion with a 72 spur. I figured i'd share this with all of you because it took me a while to finally find a motor that works this well.

Patrick :cool:

[TC3NME]

Have you tried ATV black silicone adhesive. You mentioned oil, Is that the same?

The P2K2 PRO is a little high on the RPM side for my track. The P2K Pro works good on our short twisty track.

Hi-Tech said one of my mos-fets in side my 6945 were bad. I think I adjusted my EPA wrong.

[JimmyMac]

I had the ball stud problem on the front hub/carrier of my stock TC3. I found that some of the ball studs that come with my TC3 had different thread thicknesses. I also found that mine also only came with only one of the right kind. So one carrier was fine while the other came loose all the time. Super glue didn't hold long at all. I ended up just saying screw it and bought some aluminum ones. They ended up on my mod car. :D

As far as a cheap motor, hmmm I guess Speed Gems or Orion Rushes are fine. Just throw them out when you were em out. No need to "waste" money on an expensive motor if you don't plan on taking care of them. And why buy expensive excellent batteries like Ultra's? Just curious... Awesome batteries... low budget motor... don't make sense to me! :confused: LoL

As far as Bodies go, I also use a 300M as well. I like it too. And I've also been thinking of the Yokomo Stratus as well. Had one ordered, but it was out of stock. I like the head lights. :) Anyways.. L8Rz

[rc10gtteam11]

hey, is there a 2 speed trany for the tc3 i no that the nitro has one. but does the electric. If there is where can i get one. if there isn't why dont' they make one, hpi does? for the sport 2 and the pro 3. and the reason i want one is because my friend has a nitro and he keeps saying his is so fast. and i want to keep up with my tc3 and with a 2 speed i think i could. (he has a hpi nitro 3 ss) that has a 2 speed in it. and it's fast.

[flomofo]

my ft tc3 now has a c2 esc an xxl fm reciever reedi ti motor and jr steering servo and im planning to make a stick pack for it when i race every once in a while but im not sure what "equipment" i should eventually buy like a com lathe and "stuff" like that because the reedy ti motor i want to keep up since its a relly nice modified and not just a cheap stock i wouldnt mind abusing.

thanks in advance for replies

[flomofo]

o and ill try to post the performance of my new body im trying its a 190 mm bmw m3 gtr

[rc10tc3drivr]

does anyone know where i can order some front steering blocks that are alluminum rather than the stock ones

[jkerr0043]

You can get them from Megatech. They've got all the aluminum, delrin and graphite you could ever want to put on a TC3. You can build a whole car for the most part from their stuff.http://www.megatech.com/associatedtc3.html

[rc10gtteam11]

hey, is there a 2 speed trany for the tc3 i no that the nitro has one. but does the electric. If there is where can i get one. if there isn't why dont' they make one, hpi does? for the sport 2 and the pro 3. and the reason i want one is because my friend has a nitro and he keeps saying his is so fast. and i want to keep up with my tc3 and with a 2 speed i think i could. could someone please answer my ?, thankx

[jkerr0043]

I've never heard of a 2 speed for the TC3. That's not to say some off-the-wall company hasn't or won't make one. But something like that would probably be well advertised. Besides, if you're racing in any electric class, I'm sure they're not legal.

[jkerr0043]

It would be pretty hard for an electric TC3 to keep up with the Nitro in a straight line unless you're running one hell of a modified motor. But get the two together on a fairly technical track, a 19 turn spec motor equiped electric TC3 will definatly be able to hold it's own.

[cooljoe164]

I've decided on the Speed gem 2 Diamond 12X2 motor and a 3000nimh 7 cell battery pack in my TC3(my ESC can handle 7 cells and 12 turn motors). what pinion and spur gear should i use? According to Associated, is should use 22/72. What speed should i expect?

[cow on wheels]

y dont u jus email associated or trinity or sum1 like dat an saydat lots of peepel r after a 2 speed tranny an u can post this forum ting if enough peepel say dat dey wont it.
dat way dey mite take it into consideration.

[T9D]

Originally posted by cow on wheels
y dont u jus email associated or trinity or sum1 like dat an saydat lots of peepel r after a 2 speed tranny an u can post this forum ting if enough peepel say dat dey wont it.
dat way dey mite take it into consideration.

¿En ingles, por favor?

[Grizzbob]

Indeed, lets leave the ebonics & Leetspeak off this board, & use something that we can ALL understand(yes, I mean English, not Spanish, :p ).....:)

[cow on wheels]

I've decided on the Speed gem 2 Diamond 12X2 motor and a 3000nimh 7 cell battery pack in my TC3(my ESC can handle 7 cells and 12 turn motors). what pinion and spur gear should i use? According to Associated, is should use 22/72. What speed should i expect?

22/72 is too high for a 12 turn, u will hav lots of acceleration but not a great speed. for a 12 turn, run at least 25/72.
btw - wot batteries u usin?

[NewToNitro]

Ok im a nitro guy so take it easy on me :) I want to get into electric onroad.....but im on a tight budget. Im planning on getting the TC3 Racer(i see no point in paying for the team...i dont car about blue parts) Mrc 959 charger(unless someone has a better suggestion) Explorer 2 esc. P2k Pro motor and for batts i was wondering if the peak performance batts(made for the e-maxx 2 stick packs for 40bucks) would be good enough for stock class racing.


Im still a little nervous about all this electric mumbo jumbo. This comm cutting and peak chargeing crap sounds complicated. Plus im not a good at soldering...will i be ok? I can do this right LOL

[Crazy Canuck]

The racer is a good choice, the team and FT are for hardcore racers. IMHO, the team isnt worth it, it doesnt come with enough top end stuff, get either the racer or FT.

I reccomend looking used for electronics. Better to get a used top end speed control than a cheaper new one. I suggest the Cyclone, you should be able to get a used one for 70-80 bucks. Ask around at your local track.

The superbrain is a good charger, just make sure to get a small fan that you always have on it, it runs hot.

For racing, you need at least 4 packs. The peak E maxx ones are fine for the money. You wont have the best packs, but its not necessarily equipment that wins the race.

[Scrad]

NewtoNitro, you might want to look into some other batteries. I had one of the Peak batteries and it was a piece of crap. Which is suprising, because I really like Peak products.

[rc10gtteam11]

peak's emaxx 2 2400 for $40 is a peace of crap. i have a 8 turn and a 9 turn ready motors with a duratrax 8t esc. and i melted both so thanks for towerhobbies they took them back and gave me full credit towards my next buy. so i thought i would give peak one more chance and bought the powerflo 3000 NIMH. and they work great. You get what you pay for.

[TC3NME]

I have the ft tc3 and purchased the brp front bumper. I broke the graphite a-arm that came with the kit. I was told that the standard plastic arms are better because they flex more. Which is better and how about irrgang or megatech aluminum?

[flomofo]

i think i got my set up almost done i have:

used ft tc3
used c2 esc
used xxl fm reciever
hardcore racing aluminum servo holder with built in transponder holder
bmw m3 gtr 190mm body(black white and red like in catalog)
used redy ti (the double turn one)
peak performance 2400 battery packs (60 bucks?)

im just waiting now to save up for a novak pro millenium charger so i can take advantage of my esc's programability and so i can buy deans plugs for everything and buy a good soldering iron and battery pack for racing.

does this sound like a good enough setup for local racing? the only thing im not sure of is what tires i should buy for racing but i wil be buying the traxxas inch up wheels they look killer and the inch up is supposed to be beneficial i guess.

again thanks for the replies ;) :rolleyes:

[Grizzbob]

Ok, I'll address TC3NME first....it is true that the original plastic arms will stand a bit more abuse because they flex more, they won't make the car indestructable. And if you go for aluminum, they will keep from actually breaking fine, but they'll VERY likely bend fast(maybe the first time you hit something hard), & then your car won't handle well(the arms are important to keep the suspension geometry the way it was designed, that's also why many racers use the graphite arms, they hold their shape best of all, & are still pretty tough until they're hit hard enough to break them). So really, I'd try the original arms first if I were you & see if you like them. Now, for flomofo's questions, yes, that sounds like an EXCELLENT set up, you should be wanting for anything with that. As for tires, it'll greatly depend on the kind of track you'll run on, as well as how much you can afford(some tires will wear out considerably quicker than others, especially when running mod motors). However, I can say that a lot of guys have had good luck with tires from Sorex, Take Off, & Yokomo(I've been mostly using Sorex & Take Offs lately), but the compound will depend on the track's temperature. If you use the softest ones, & try to run them in hot weather, they might work for a minute or so but they'll heat up fast & soon they get too hot & lose traction(you'll feel the car get really loose real fast). However, a harder compound(usually the higher the number of the compound, the harder the tire) will work better in higher temps, so it becomes important to know how hot it is & have the right compound for the situation ready. To give you an idea, in the early spring races at a local asphalt track(when the temps can get down to the mid 50'sF) I'll use a Sorex 20R, but by now when the temps are around 85-95 F(& the track temp is even hotter), I'll have gone to tires like Sorex's 28R, 32R, & 36R's(I'll prefer to have the 36R's up front & some 28R's rear, or if it's REAL hot the 32R's in rear). I also like to have some others handy, like Yokomo's 137M for the front when I need VERY little steering & a few Take Offs, like their CS27s & CS32's(& I also like that you can buy the Take Offs with their own molded inserts included for the same price as other tires alone). The best thing you can do is talk to the guys at your track & see what compounds they like to use(which should be most easily available at the local shops) & go from there.....:)

[Racin Rev]

Newtonitro, I wouldn't worry about this peak charging thing all that much. that is mostly a NiCad issue and for guys who are absolutely running the edege of performance, you will have other things to worry about. A good charger like the 959 will handle these issues for you. Do a search on the various boards about the 959 as there are several threads which might be helpful. http://www.rctech.net/ has some good stuff. I have found that the 959 is prone to false peaking with NiMh's especially when the batteries are ageing a little. (or, i've heard when brand new). Keep an eye on charging time and if the charge takes less time than you think it should then charge a second time to be sure. I do this with almost all my batteries and since then have not had a problem with loosing a charge during a race (dumping).

As for soldering, it just takes time. there have been articles in the 'zines about this off and on do a search for back issues and download these,they will be helpful.

[Crazy Canuck]

I dont like the take off inserts very much. I find they make the tire too round. I use Pit Shimuzu 20 R or 24R for carpet, and 24R, 27R, and 32R outside. I find used carpet tires work very well outside.

[rc10gtteam11]

how can you gear a 10 turn to have lots fo top end like about 40-50 mph. but still have ok take off. and i dont' care to much about run time. i will be running a panasonic 3000 NIMH. thanks for your answers. :)

[Crazy Canuck]

If you want to figure out your maximum possible gearing for speed, do this:

1. Dyno your motor. Get the lowest torque reading on the powerband, weather its at 2000 RPM or 30000.

2. Use this equasion to find your absolute maximum gearing:
Given:
Min Torque (in some units, say Newton-mm)
Weight of car (Newtons = Mass in kilograms * 9.8)

Do this: Min torque / Weight = some number in mm. That should be your rollout. Then use the fast math site to work your rollout to a gearing.

[flomofo]

just wanted to thank you all who helped me out with my set up thx

[TC3NME]

are the IRS parts stronger than associated graphite? I bent the FT hindge pin when I broke my a-arm, are the lundsford titanium hindge pins stronger?

Is it possible that the arm broke because it was the weak link after I added the RPM ball cups?

I am running novice and it is oval racing until I win another A-Main. What is the best s/u for a touring car on a short 5 sec. outside asphalt oval coated with coke. Temp is 85-90 and track temp 100-110.

I run the FT with P2K Pro with 26 pinion and 72 spur, LRP quantum pro ESC, futaba pcm radio with 1024 reciever, Ballistic Batteries 3000HV matched 6-cell, 6945 digital hitech servo, I have run medium purple/orange 28mm tires in front and medium/soft pink 28mm in back.

My body choices are Proline speed six or 350Z body, I have the 2002 stratus body on order it seems to have a better wing option. I have beefed up protection with BRP.

Any more help is appreciated. My friends at the track only run touring and the oval guys are no help with my TC3.

[Crazy Canuck]

I dont knowmuch about oval, but here is my best shot. Look at the setup of someones oval car. See where the have the softest spring and where they have the stiffest spring. For that kind of surface, the springs you would want to try are Blue, Gold, Red, and Copper. Start with -2 camber in the right and +1.5-2 in the left.
Other than that I cant help you much. You could try emailing Gary Owen at Ascociated, at the Snowbirds he ran a TC3 on oval. See what his setup was, and copy it, but soften everything up a bit, because they were on carpet.

Edit: You may want to try a GM3 instead of the P2k, it has better top end, and the torque is higher in the powerband.

[flomofo]

another newbie question but, anyways , when i set my front shocks should i use the upright position or slanted diagonoly like stock im going to run on an asphalt track and i think some of you guys could help me with their position while the people at the track will hopefully recomend me some tires. its looks pretty clean from the pictures i saw too looks nice its in nor cal where i live near sacramento heres there web site with some pics.

think they did the 99 regionals there too.

http://www.speedworldraceway.com/Page.cfm?InfoID=1859:)

[Crazy Canuck]

Start with the shocks in the centre holes. This will allow you to stand up the shocks for a stiffer setting, or lay them down for softer.

[stormperson]

TC2NME: do not buy lungsford ti hingepings! the BRP ones are considerably better, i would know, i bent around 3 sets of the Ti hingepins, and only bent one or two of hte brp in that time. also the brp are a slightly larger diamiter, thus they fit snugger, but dont bind up.

and while u said u beefed up with BRP, does that mean front and rear bumpers and nerf wings? if not, do so now, espically with oval where you can get turned around and hit off the walls, you will save a fortune in arms.

also since you said you were running RPM ballcups, make sure they are not rubbing on the inside of the wheel (on the outside of the camber links, or on the inside of the steering links, since those places tend to rub).

[TC3NME]

thanks for the help. I have upgraded to all brp. I did make sure the rpm cups did not rub. You are right about oval it has also rubbed the foam off my tires from slide hitting the corner boards. I can not wait to actually tour. This flying in a circle is getting old!

[RodneyB]

I agree with stormperson. The titanium hinge pins may be lighter, but are not any stronger. I have also had better luck with the BRP pins. Also, the BRP pins are very cheap relative to the titanium pins. Always double check the pins if you break an A-arm to make sure the pins are not bent.

[Crazy Canuck]

Also, if you start to break a lot of stuff in one corner of the car, check the hingepin.

[BlueBoy]

Hi everyone. I replaced the front and rear transmission cases this week, went from the 'old' style graphite ones to the 'new' style graphite ones, the ones with the extra holes in for the N-TC3 bumper/shock mount. I did this because most of the threads were stripped.
The problem is that after changing the cases over the drivetrain is a LOT noisier than it was before.
Will it quieten down once its had a few runs, or does the mesh need altering at all for these new cases?

[Bloodember]

Hi everyone,
I bought the RTR TC3 last week and was wondering what would be good to upgrade on it? Also does it use 190 or 200mm bodies? Thanks

--bloodember--

[Dingus]

servo

[Bloodember]

Just the servo? What's wrong with the one that came with it? I don't see anything wrong with it. I also know I have to get another ESP, since I hear reverse is illegal in racing. Also most likely the engine, does that need upgrading? If so what should I get? Also like I said before, what else do I need to upgrade for better racing? Thanks

--bloodember--

[Dingus]

Fine, replace everything!

Just kidding. Yes, the servo. I can't fully explain the difference, so you have got to trust me on this one. It WILL dramatically improve the handling of the car, especially on high grip surfaces. Your car will turn faster and be much more precise. A std servo lacks the necessary torque and speed.

If you are gonna race anything other than novice, get a decent stock motor and a reasonable esc that can tune out reverse. I think some tracks will let you run the original motor and overlook the reverse thing.

190mm bodies. Stick with the old standbys for racing. Stratus, 300M, etc.

Ask around about the tire of choice at yopur local track and copy. Also, see if they are using tire sauce and copy.

Other than that, practice, practice, practice. Then worry about other upgrades. The better servo will allow you to learn faster.

Think about the Hitec 525MG or 625MG for economy or the 925MG if money is no object.

maybe rpm ballcups and ti rods, but only when the stock stuff breaks/wears out.

[Dingus]

Almost forgot,

If you are going to race, might want to get the spring set, and an assortment of shock oils. Camber gauge and droop gauge too.

Very useful are a good set of hex drivers.

Can't think of anything else at the moment.

[TC3NME]

try the protoform stratus 2.0 body it has a good wing option.

The 200mm bodies are for nitro.

if you get a hitech digital servo like the 6945 make sure it was made within 2002. I just had a bad one sent by tower and hitech said they had some problems last year. They just sent me a new one that works fine.

If you will be racing a different radio may be helpful because the one it came with has no dual rate option. I use it even in novice.

stock racing will require a 27 turn motor at most tracks. I am trying a gm3 until I get out of novice oval because it has higher RPMs but for a short twisty technical track the higher torque P2K pro seems to work better. On a long technical track maybe the balance of torque and RPM P2K2. Be careful to check the gear ratio when changing motors!

Good luck and have fun! This board has alot of help for your future racing needs :D

[Bloodember]

Ok, thanks! I'll look into a new servo. Also thanks about the size of body to use.

--bloodember--

[JimmyMac]

Yeah, I'd go with what everyone said on here. The Racer kit is a good kit to get someone into the hobby. But the radio it comes with ain't really up to spec for racing. Mainly the Dual Rate issue. A good cheap radio to get with Dual Rates is the Airtronics Blazer Sport (new ones have Dual Rate.) I'm seen them as low as $40 with a "mini" receiver and one cheap standard servo. Of course Airtronics is coming out with a brand new radio called the MX-3 that has 5 model memory (meaning you can store up to 5 different car settings.) It's nice, but it's gonna cost more than a Blazer, but cheaper than the highend M-8 (which I use.) If you are just looking into racing and not getting serious just yet, stick with your current radio.

I imagine that you'll be racing Stock Class. So a good motor for you to start with will be either an MVP Plus or P2K2 Pro. Of course goin to a race and seeing what the winners run could help since each track is different. I usually race with a GM3 regardless of track. But that's just me. :D

Servo's, follow what every here has to say. I use Airtronics Digital ones. But those are alittle too expensive for someone just getting into the hobby. About $100 a servo. Unless if you KNOW you are gonna stick with the hobby. Get a less expensive Hitec one. They work just as good.

Bodies play an important role in car handling. Stick with a Stratus or 300m body. Other Protoform bodies will do too like the Accords, Alfas, Vauxhall, and Volvo. Just don't trim the wing too small (or small at all, you want it big!) If you do trim it small, your car will spin out alot in the turns.

Esc, hmmm if you only plan on racing Stock class, there can be some cheap decisions here. I run a LRP Quantum Sport. It's tiny and does the job for my Touring Stock car. For mod I use a GM V12xc. Costs about twice that of the Quantum Sport. There are other more "beefier" ESC's than the sport though. I also run mine with a large capacitor. Blah blah blah, get a Novak.

Spring kit is a good hopup. But usually the Silver/Gold combo will work good with most parking lot tracks. Tell us more about the track you will race on. Or just ask the local people. I'm sure they will be more than willing to help. I hope! :D

Anyways, I think I've babbled too much. Thats what usually happens to me at night.. hehe... Take it easy!

[Bloodember]

KilRuf, thanks for the info. I already have a JR XR-2 that I use with my Nitro TC3, so I was going to use that with the Elec. TC3 as well. Just need to get a new Reciever for it. I hate the radio that it comes with. Thanks for all the help, if you have any more suggestions post away.

--bloodember--

[Bloodember]

Come on guys, theres nothing else that I should upgrade? What about the shocks? Should I get aluminum ones or stay with the composite ones?

--bloodember--

[Dingus]

Use the composite until they wear out, then upgrade. The racer/RTR is a good car. Not that much needs to be done.

If you are gonna go the upgrade route, might have been better to get the Factory Team version.

Get a one way when you get better at driving and feel like you need more steering/corner speed.

Don't go crazy with aluminum stuff, too much money for very little gain.

Probably a good idea to get the BRP front bumper and maybe nerf bars.

Have some spare arms ready in case. Also, the trinity foam bumper is nice.

[Bloodember]

Ok, thanks for the info.

--bloodember--

[jkerr0043]

although they're a little expensive, titainium turnbuckles and RPM rod ends are a must (especially in a novice class.) they're not going to break and novice drivers tend to like the walls. a lot of the aluminum parts are for show. aluminum battery strap? what's the point? it's just more weight. the best aluminum upgrade are the threaded shocks for the adjustability.

[Crazy Canuck]

Dont get the RPM ballcups right away. Wait until you learn to control the car to the point where you dont hit much, then get them. Better to have a ballcup pop off that break parts all the time.

[TC3NME]

Amen to that Crazy! I wish you would have said that a few pages back:D

[Grizzbob]

Indeed, I suspect that's what Associated had in mind with a number of the TC3's components, much like the composite CVD's. They're cheap & easy to replace(as well as nice & light for low rotational mass), so they can protect more vital & expensive parts of the drivetrain when you hit stuff.....:)

[Crazy Canuck]

The composite CVDs are a godsend, especially with the way oneways eat them.

[WheelNut]

I'm finally bringing my Tc3 back from the dead :D Now I have a good esc with no motor limit. And I'm wondering what kind of motor I shoudl get for just bashing in front of my house? I want to get a speed gem pro, but I dont think there out yet, so probably a Team orion core. Any one have any idea's on what turn to get?

I also ordered a Yokomo RX-7 body for it! :) that should eb really really nice looking! I'll post some pics here, mabye in 2 weeks...

[aeb3man_44]

go to www.sheldonshobbies.com they have a bunch of really cheap hand wounds starteng at 9.99 to 28.99, click on hot deals when you get there and then go to motors

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Dusted my TC3 off after sitting on the shelf for a year... upgraded the steal diffs to the new lightweight composite ones.... it comes with bushings.... what size ball bearings can I replace those with?

[Dingus]

It is supposed to use bushings instead of bearings.

The bearings will cause the diff to slip more easily.

Also, the bushing will only turn when there is diff action, so there is not much use for a bearing anyway.

[RC-ZOMBIES]

Dingus.. thanks... I'll leave the diff the way the are...

[FactoryTeam]

How many of you broke your team/racer kit type motor clamp? my snapped at the base(yes,i know i over tightened it). Is the Factory Team One worth upgrading to?

[Crazy Canuck]

Only get the big FT one if you are haveing problems with motor heat. Otherwise its just unnecessary weight.

[jkerr0043]

I like using the smaller racer clamp because then you can use the long heat sink and I think that heat sink works better then the FT motor clamp one. It's got a lot more surface area to disapate more heat.

[TC3NME]

The FT clamp falls off in a crash easier. Mine fell of twice and landed between the inner right rear wheel and a-arm. I now use a small piece of double stick tape to keep it on. My motor tends too get hot with asphalt racing in 100 deg. I need all the sink I can get :cool:

[speedydave]

Has anyone converted their TC3 to rally? Is it worth doing? Rallies look like so much fun...ah, thank God for digital cable and the Speed channel...which happens to be channel 69 over here where I am...LOL :D

[atm92484_3]

Actually dave, I just did a few weeks ago. The car doesn't handle as well as it does in its 190mm onroad form, but its still a blast. For the past 2 weeks, I was at Hilton Head Island. While there, I ran 15 packs through the car on the beach and I have to say it was sweet. Eventhough it couldn't go in the really soft or extreme offroad stuff, it was still pretty good on either dirty pavement (used onroad treaded tires) or slightly loose offroad surface, like the packed sand on the beach. IMO its defiently worth doing.

[TC3NME]

I replaced the right front arm after a bad crash and after I got it bsack together I seem to only have three wheel drive. The right wheel will start off spinning and then stop while the others continue under throttle. I checked the cvd and it is connected correctly. A funny thing is with the right front wheel off it seems to turn fine. Is it possible I damaged something in the diff? I made sure the tire was not rubbing. Maybe the spinning weight of the tire is causing it to stop.

I hope this explaination makes sense. It barely does to me?

[Crazy Canuck]

Reassemble the diff. It sounds like you may have lost something from it.

[tyler nesby]

i made a big mistake in selling my tc3. its my favorite touring car. even with a mod motor it handles great. im gonna buy another ft tc3 because i miss racing on road. i cant wait to get it :cool:

[Crazy Canuck]

Yeah, you can sell a TC3, but you always end up with another. The only problem with it is it handles so well, and is so easy to drive that it gets boring after a while.

[MPTech]

I bought a TC3 RTR last summer and really get a kick out of it. Now I would like to do some mild upgrading and would like some suggestions. I got the blue-anodized battery strap, motor mount, and heat sink (eye-candy & cooling aid). I just ordered the new P2K2 Pro yesterday. Do I need to change the pinion? (It's still a stock motor). I also have a question, I have a set of motor bearings I was considering putting in the P2k2 (I don't plan on sanctioned racing, just locally with friends). Should I leave well enuf alone? Any other recommendations? I don't necessarily want to blow a bunch of money unless it is reasonably priced and makes the car better.

Thanks! :D

[MPTech]

Sorry one more question. I've had this happen 3 times when racing on a parking lot. A rock got up in the chassis and lodged in the steering bell-crank. I once saw a picture of a lexan cover someone made to prevent this. Can anyone post it? Or is there a better solution?

Thanks again!

BTW, why aren't there more pictures of yout TC3s posted here!! I'd love to see them (especially some 'Vettes & Vipers!!!)

[atm92484_3]

This is a little extreme for parking lot racing, but here is an underbody I made for rallying. Hey you don't have to worry about rocks getting in. :)

Its hard to see in the pic, but it does cover the steering rack. The only thing I found that became jammed was sand (but that gets just about every place to begin with so...)

[rr31rr]

Heres the link to the steering rack cover.

http://www.rc10.com/pdf/tc3_rack_cover.PDF

I made one myself for my FT TC3 and it works pretty well heres a pic of it below.

PS Its looks CF because i put a CF decal over the lexan cover.

[Crazy Canuck]

I dont know what pinion you have with the TC3 RTR, but you should be using a 27-28 tooth pinion with the 72 tooth spur gear.

If you have no plans to race, definitely use the motor bearings. They will help the motor run much cooler and more efficiently.

[jkerr0043]

Here's a pic of mine. I like that steering rack cover. I'll be making one today. Another lexan shield you can make one for the slot in the rear of the chassis for the spur gear. I just put a little CA on it to hold it to the bottom of the chassis and it seem to be fine. I haven't stripped a spur yet since I did it.

[rr31rr]

Nice job on the paint scheme what body is that?

[jkerr0043]

That's the new Yokomo Stratus body. I ordered it from SpeedTechRC.com.

[rr31rr]

Just wondering but do you happen to have the template for that paint scheme?

[jkerr0043]

they were both parma masks. I used the "big flames" on the stratus and I can't remember the name on the other one but it was a Parma
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAGG0&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAGG0&P=7
Here's the links to them from Tower.

[jkerr0043]

oops. here's the link to the big flames mask
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXDB40&P=7

[rr31rr]

Does anyone here race in the So. Cal area.

[AssociatedRacer]

I occasionally race at SoCAl R/c Raceway

[XYZ]

I race at So Cal weekly...

[WheelNut]

atm-how'd you make that underbody??!! it looks awsome.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I want to hear what all of you started out with for your TC3's. I wanna know what you got, how much it costed, etc. Especially all of you FT drivers, since I will be getting this car soon. I don't have one yet, do to my 1:1 car. I want to know what kind of connectors(for batts), what kind of batteries, what kind of wheels and tires, what body, what charger, radio, etc. I also want to know if the 200mm kit is a good upgrade to get. Is it worth it? As always, PICTURES PLEASE!!! Thanx, and I look forward to reading these... :)

[AssociatedRacer]

I aquired my Racer in a trade, but now has made me go into onroad fulltime(i was offroad). For Gear, if your running AE, u just gotta run AE...:
radio-m8
batteries-reedy
charger-quasar pro
esc-Quantum, 7.1, or SR(quantum is the best to me)
body-Stratus is the norm
tires-depends where u run...


http://www.cichlidfish.com/webusers/web_pages/factoryteam/Dscn3753.jpg
http://www.cichlidfish.com/webusers/web_pages/factoryteam/Dscn3752.jpg

[Crazy Canuck]

Cyclone
XR2
3000 HV
P2K2
KO Propo BX 213 MH Charger

All the cyclones perform more or less the same, if you can get a good deal on one of the originals, go for it.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Hey teamlosiracer: I think you have your tires backwards! The tread should point to the front of the car. That way it channels the water away from the car, not into itself. I know you won't run the car through water, but I just thought I would say something incase you wanted to. This way you won't hydroplane!

[dusterk]

Hey guys. i raced for the first time yesterday. I got second but that was only with 3 guys:). Anyhow. My car just didnt seem to want to turn. Its a short track that my lhs has set up. Im running a green machine pro 3. with stock springs. I know I should change the springs but Im not sure what to. By the way this is a parking lot track. Should I mess with the camber and toe in settings too. Another question I have is when the front wheels are straight where is the servo arm. Should it be streight up at 12.00 or more like 1.00 position.

thanks
Dusty

[Crazy Canuck]

Anywhere between 12 and 1 is fine. Just make sure the servo saver (centre of the steering rack) is directly under the driveshaft.

Try putting in the R 2+2 piece to get 2 degrees of rear toe in. That should make the car turn a bit better.

[AssociatedRacer]

What track? also, wherever the servo is centered. Also make sure the rack has no binding. Take off the servo buckle, and see if it moves VERY smoothley...If its not, loosen one alot so ur sure it has no contact, then with the other tighten it all the way. Then start loosening it out little by little, checking each time till it rolls. When it starts rolling smoothly tighten the other one all the way and do the same thing...


I know, theyre the right way already, just the pic is old...

[atm92484_3]

Originally posted by WheelNut
atm-how'd you make that underbody??!! it looks awsome.

I just bought an 8"x10" sheet of lexan from Bolink (.02" thickness), pulled out the heatgun for covering airplanes, and I started heating and bending it until it fit the chassis the way I wanted to.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I actually found a underbody kit for the TC3. It was on a website, and it costed $24.95 or somthin' like that. I wish I had found were it was...Can anyone else tell me their setup? I need to know what connectors you used, how to solder a copasitor(sp?) to the ESC (If I need one), How to put the car together/ any tips. How do I put together a battery, etc. It is stupid questions, but I just need to know these things...

[AssociatedRacer]

<>

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Thanx for the pic TEAMLOSIRACER. I see you have come a long way with that car. I didn't mean to be rude earlier by pointing out the fact that you had the wheels on wrong, I just didn't think you knew, so I wanted to help out...Keep up the good work. The car looks great! :)

[AssociatedRacer]

oops 4got to mention thats not my car...just someone from the track...

[NoPepsiForYou]

I just ordered my TC3 from Tower today and I can't wait to get it:D Just wondering how long it takes to build it and/or any tips for building it.

[HauntedMyst]

2 to 4 hours depending on how quick you are. Aim for 4. Have a dremel tool hand so you can trim all the burrs properly. You may have to sand down the arms just slightly to make them free fitting. If you got the FT TC3, screw each of the holes with a steel screw, then insert the aluminum screw. It seems like double work, but you wont risk stripping any screws. When you assemble the steering rack, keep it loose. Other then that, the car pretty much falls together. Also, get some BRP front and rear bumpers and build it with them from the start, you will be happy you did.

[HauntedMyst]

Originally posted by MPTech
I bought a TC3 RTR last summer and really get a kick out of it. Now I would like to do some mild upgrading and would like some suggestions. I got the blue-anodized battery strap, motor mount, and heat sink (eye-candy & cooling aid). I just ordered the new P2K2 Pro yesterday. Do I need to change the pinion? (It's still a stock motor). I also have a question, I have a set of motor bearings I was considering putting in the P2k2 (I don't plan on sanctioned racing, just locally with friends). Should I leave well enuf alone? Any other recommendations? I don't necessarily want to blow a bunch of money unless it is reasonably priced and makes the car better.

Thanks! :D

The Speedo you got can handle a 18 turn I believe, why not go with a more powerful motor since you are just playing? Get a mild mold with bearings, like a 19 turn and you'll get more speed.

[Crazy Canuck]

No Pepsi,
Get a good set of hex wrenches before you start building. Youll end up with them anyway, because the keys will strip, so get them now.

[NoPepsiForYou]

Originally posted by Crazy Canuck
No Pepsi,
Get a good set of hex wrenches before you start building. Youll end up with them anyway, because the keys will strip, so get them now.

Yea I have been itching to get a nice set up Hex Wrenches but I never really have had the time. I will try to get some soon. But do you know what sizes I will need for the kit?

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Attention HauntedMyst, or other knowledge-filled people:

I have decided on the list of stuff I plan on ordering from Tower Hobbies when I get enough money. The list is as follows:

Associated Factory Team TC3....$289.99
Futaba 3PDF FM R113F w/2 S3003 Servos....$170.00
Associated MVP Stock Plus Rebuildable Motor....$39.99
Associated F1 Pro Reverse ESC....$99.99
MRC SuperBrain 959 Charger....$46.99
Trinity Zip Metal Hydrid 2500mAh Batts....#27.99
Trinity Sanyo 2400 6 Cell Racing Pack Batts....$39.99
W.S. Deans Silicone Wire 12-gauge 2' Red/Black....$5.69
W.S. Deans 2-Pin Ultra Plug Connectors....$2.99ea. (I put 2)
HPI Dodge Stratus 190mm Body....$18.99
Associated Factory Team Hex Driver 6pc. Kit....$41.99
DuraTrax Pit Tech Deluxe Car Stand-Blue....$10.99
TOTAL: $791.58

I know the list is missing the Wheels and Tires, but Tower Hobbies has a very uncomplete listing of items. I will get the Pro-Line Wabash Wheels, and the Fury Wheels for starters. I will upgrade to slicks later on.

I want to know what everyone has to say about this list. If anyone has any items from this list, please give me the ups and downs to the item. I want to know If it is a good, complete list, or not. Will I need to solder any compasitors onto my motor, or not? How about my ESC? Are there any other things I should put on my list? Any other information or building tips would be greatly appreciated, as this will be my first full TC setup. Thanx! :)

[TC3NME]

I have heard the superbrain has false peaks try to get the quasar pro because you can also cycle your batts. the charger is one of the most important investments you can make.

The batts. are ok but ballistic batts. have been better for me and if your track has no batt. limits get the sanyo 3000HV NiMH (more run time and longer lasting)

The MVP will require soldering of the capacitors and diode. I got the P2K Pro which only requires diode soldering. The MVP is a balance of torque and speed and is comparable to the P2K2 Pro which only requres diode soldering. My short track works better with a torquey motor.

The reverse ESC can not be used on most race tracks but for playing around it is good to have. I use the SR for racing.

If your racing you will want to up grade your servo to one with more torque.

I run soft foam tires on asphalt. My track allows them and the hook up causes less understeer.

I got the 3PJS which is overkill. I got it to use with the novak XXXtra crystalless reciever.

I also orderered everthing at once from tower but mine came out to over $1200.00.

I would recommend finding the lowest price on the items you want to order in the newest edition of car action and tower will match that price. They will honor june, july and aug. I saved over $100.00 that way! Also use the over 150.00 code on the home page to save an extra $15.00. Example: they matched 269.99 on the FT kit for me.

[AssociatedRacer]

hmmm...by the stuff ur getting, i see that ur not racing...then why get a ft tc3? with the stuff ur getting a tc3 racer kit should be fine...

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

TEAMLOSIRACER, I just have always wanted the best of the best. Ever since I saw the threaded shocks, and the blue stuff, graphite chassis, I knew I had to have one. Plus, I would upgrade, so why not just spend money on this, and save over $370 in upgrades had I gotton a team or racer kit.

No, I am not racing yet, but I might later. I could always use the LRP for my XXX buggy, since I have yet to get that running. Is soldering Copasitors and diodes hard? Do I need to do that to the ESC too? I have no idea what kind of soldering iron my dad has, but I need to know if I need any special solder, and what kind of Iron? I have never soldered a motor or ESC, so it is all new to me. How about breaking in the motor? All I have is a drill (my dads) and that's it. Can I break it in, or could I leave it? I guess I need motor spray. Anything else? Thanx guys :D

I feel stupid, since I have been in this hobby since I was 12. almost 5 yrs! WOW!:rolleyes: :p :(

[AssociatedRacer]

if u like the best, do urself a favor and ditch the ESC, Charger, and 2500 nimh batts

Get a LRP quantum competition
Reedy Quasar Pro
and 2400 sanyos or 3000 smh or umh and ull have the best

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I seriously was thinking about it, but then I will have no area to upgrade upon! I will be racing in my backyard or driveway. I will make a track, so I can race on it. Maybe later I will upgrade, and race for real. Plus, it would take me forever to save up for that kind of stuff, as if it won't already! :) :p

[WheelNut]

Pepsi-get a tap for the screwholes, there really cheap at any harware store you can get the tap and the handle for about $10. It works better than using a steel screw easier, and it doesnt stretch the plastic to make the screw theads.
JFYI

[Crazy Canuck]

The sizes are listed on the first page of the manual.

XXX/TC3, I forgot to mention this in my other post, but dont get the MVP. Soldering the capacitors is boring, plus the MVP runs really hot. Get a P2K2, it runs cooler, plus the capacitors are pre-installed.

[PCC]

I just bought my first TC3! I'm not sure which model it was to begin with.

What I got was a TC3 with Irrgang graphite chassis, blue titanium turnbuckles, composite CVD's, blue motor mount plate, plastic battery strap, and plastic shocks (these are the parts that identifies which model you have, right?).

Unfortunately, the car came without the motor clamp, motor cam, and motor heatsink (I have an ad posted in the "Wanted" section for these), but, for the price I got the car for, I'm not complaining. The chassis was brand new, never run, and I bought the whole car for less than the cost of the chassis alone.

[NoPepsiForYou]

I got the tc3 and started building it today. I got to building the differentials and I got one of them together but the second one I am having a problem getting them to screew together. Anybody have an idea on whats wrong with it. I have been fidleing with it for probably 2 hours and I am getting nowhere:(

[TC3NME]

press in on the nut as you turn and press the screw and make sure everything is lined up with a flush fit. Make sure it feels like the one you already have together.

[NoPepsiForYou]

Hehe thanks, that did just the trick.

But by next question is that one my first differential I had one one the balls fall out (I don't know for what part tho) and when I turn it one way it makes a clicking noise, the other one dosen't make that noise. I don't know if this will mess anything up or anything but I just wanted to make sure:(

Ohhhh yea and DUDE! those screws really do eat up hex wrenches, I need to go to a hardware store and get some more:rolleyes:

[jkerr0043]

you should deffinatley rebuild the diff that's making a clicking noise and make sure that all the ball are in the correct place

[NoPepsiForYou]

Yea I took it apart and put some more of that black stuff in there and it stoped. So I guess the horrer of making the differentials is over:p

[FireFly980]

I would still make sure that you have all of your balls in the right place! Since you mentioned the black grease, I would assume that you had an extra ball after the Thrust Ball assembly and hope you are not confusing that with the balls in the Differential Ring Gear! With the Differential Ring Gear, you sure don't want to use the Black Grease!
If I was you, I would take it all apart and put it back together because, if nothing else you need the practice so that you can rebuild it in the future when you need to!

[TC3NME]

Practice rebuilding and do not use too much grease! Is very good advice. Every one of those is balls has a purpose and
misplacement can have devestating effects.

[NoPepsiForYou]

hehe yea I put the black stuff on the small gear and the clear stuff on the big gear.

But I have worse luck with these things. I got all the way up to doing the shocks but then I reached another problem. I got all of the shocks together except I noticed that one of the spring cups wasen't going over the eyelet. Anybody have an idea on how to get this to work, I am just thinking of making it wider if anybody dosen't have any other ideas.

sorry for all of these questions, im just not the greatest builder ever:rolleyes:

[MPTech]

I'm just getting around to upgrading my RTR I bought last summer. Installed some Aluminum goodies a couple months ago and just got my P2K2 Pro last week (not installed yet). What other go fast goodies would you recommend? Does it need any bearings? (I thought it came with a full set, but I don't recall) Ti turnbuckles are next on my list.
I also bought HPI's 31mm street tires. I just installed them on one side to see how they would look and fit. As soon as I glue 'em up and install the P2K2, I'm hittin' the street!

Well, what do think of them? :D

[NWBasher]

RRP lightened outdrives, high voltage pack, and a Dean's connector. You might also opt for the full graphite components set.

[jkerr0043]

If you don't have bearings, they're a must, even before the Ti trunbuckles. If you're planning on racing a lot, I'd even go with the Teflon bearings. You can get a good set made by Duratrax for a lot less than the AE ones and they're just as good.

[Crazy Canuck]

The TC3 already has bearings, you dont need any more.....

Ti turnbuckles are good. Get a BRP wide front bumper.

[Nofri]

I'm choosing between a Corally C4 Andy Griffin and a Associated TC3 Racer. The TC3 Racer cost me 25 Euro's more, but thats a small difference.

I'm planning to race wit it at circuits, but wich one is better?

[Grizzbob]

Neither, both are great cars, & are capable of winning pretty much anywhere. The only thing you should worry about is how good the parts support is at your local hobby shops. After all, you wouldn't want to wait a couple of weeks for shipping just because you broke a suspension arm & the local shop doesn't stock them. If both cars you're considering has good support in your area, then just buy the one that you can get help setting up or whichever one tickles your fancy more..... :cool:

[NoPepsiForYou]

I have a few questions so just bare with me:p

Should I bother getting the heat sink stuff (motor clip and Battery Strap)

What tires would you suggest for an outdoor Asphalt track.

How do I get the car to go in a stright line at high speeds

What are some good hop-ups for performance.

[jkerr0043]

NoPepsi-
Motor heat sink, yes, aluminum battery strap, I wouldn't bother. It's just added weight for a lot of money. As far as tires go check with the guys you race with at your local track. I run either Take-Off or Sorex on outdoor asphault parkinglots. And getting the car to go straight, Make sure that you're alignments, i.e... toe in/out are correct and that your steering trim is straight. first, take off the servo arm and center the trim on your radio. Then make sure that you toe is correct and the both turnbuckles are about the same length. You should probably have either no toe in/out, or 1 degree of toe in. The toe in will help keep the car stable in the straights but may cause it to under steer a little. Don't go any more than one or two dgrees in either direction. After you set the toe, attach the servo arm to the servo making sure the servo is still centered. If you look in the instruction manual it will explain how to setup the servo arm to keep the wheels straight. It will be off center a few degrees. Then, once you're attached, drive the car on a leval surface away from you and use the trim on the radio to fine tune it. The TC3 has a little tourque steer in it from the way the drive train is set up and that may be what you're experiancing, but it would really only be noticable under hard acceleration.

[Dingus]

if your car is not going to center after a turn it could be that you need a stronger servo, but try everything else first.

If you go to race, definitely get a high speed/high torque metal gear servo.

[NoPepsiForYou]

hehe I defenetly don't need a stronger servo. But I think I figured out the straight away proplems. The only problem is that at my house I can't really go at top speed but I adjusted the toe in/out, chamber and the kickup.

I never thought to mess around with those but they were all out of place. And I am planning on getting some stuff for it and my buggy from tower once I get the money;)

[Nofri]

Originally posted by Grizzbob
Neither, both are great cars, & are capable of winning pretty much anywhere. The only thing you should worry about is how good the parts support is at your local hobby shops. After all, you wouldn't want to wait a couple of weeks for shipping just because you broke a suspension arm & the local shop doesn't stock them. If both cars you're considering has good support in your area, then just buy the one that you can get help setting up or whichever one tickles your fancy more..... :cool:
Not that great cars? Why's that? (and why arent they capable to win?)
Well, my local shop doesn't sell any of these two cars, but 30km further they sell both cars, and parts from Corally, not from Associated.... But at mij LHS they do sell alot of Tamiya, but I'm sure that I will not buy a Tamiya car (altough I have a F103RS from Tamiya and have good memories :D ) Unless somebody can talk me over with a very good reason :) )

And both are looking cool te me. I have seen an picture of HPI's prototype car, and it look very well, thats why i'm more interested in the TC3 :D

[Crazy Canuck]

He means they are both capable cars, neither is better than the other.

The reason for going to Tamiya would be that the cars are like rocks, they hardly ever break. But when you do break, its expensive to fix.

If you can get parts for the corally, go for it. Just pick up a few spares, like some arms, and maybe some hub carriers.

[Nofri]

Ooooow sorry my mistake, I read it wrong :D

lucky they are great car, sow i'm going for the C4 then(I think)

I'm not very good in understanding English, but what do you mean with the Hub Carrier? (i'm guessing something with the suspension....)

[Grizzbob]

A hub carrier is what the outer stub axle sits in(for lack of a better term), one hub carrier will usually have two bearings in it & the axle will pass through it. the hub carrier is usually also where you have some of the avaiable holes to change a camber link position(which can alter how much the camber changes as the suspension moves, if you want it to change at all). by the way, about Tamiyas, there is one that's definitely among the best(like the TC3, Losi XXXS, XRay T1, Corally C4, etc.), the TRF-414M2. The 414 series cars are every bit as good as the others I've mentioned, so don't discount them either(in fact, the guy who won the IFMAR OnRoad World Championship for Touring cars did it with a 414M2). Like I said, as long as you can get parts easily enough, just go with the one that strikes your fancy(& for the record, I have 2 TC3's & I do love them dearly).....:D

[Nofri]

Originally posted by Grizzbob
A hub carrier is what the outer stub axle sits in(for lack of a better term), one hub carrier will usually have two bearings in it & the axle will pass through it. the hub carrier is usually also where you have some of the avaiable holes to change a camber link position(which can alter how much the camber changes as the suspension moves, if you want it to change at all). by the way, about Tamiyas, there is one that's definitely among the best(like the TC3, Losi XXXS, XRay T1, Corally C4, etc.), the TRF-414M2. The 414 series cars are every bit as good as the others I've mentioned, so don't discount them either(in fact, the guy who won the IFMAR OnRoad World Championship for Touring cars did it with a 414M2). Like I said, as long as you can get parts easily enough, just go with the one that strikes your fancy(& for the record, I have 2 TC3's & I do love them dearly).....:D
Ah now i get it :)

If I had to choose between a C4 and the 414M2 I straight go for the 414M2 It looks better also! :p But its the price, the C4 cost 240 Euros and de 414M2 cost about the double (589 Euros)

[Crazy Canuck]

Also make sure to take into account that the 414MII comes with the double oneways, which if you race, will come in handy. On the Corally, you will probably end up spending an extra $60 US on a oneway. I think the corally has a centre one way, but dont quote me on that.

[ILiketheXXCR]

TC3 or Kyosho Alpha 2? their both shaft driven, and they look alike too?. Alpha 2 is more cheaper though. So why would people go for the Kyosho?:confused:

[Crazy Canuck]

The kyosho os a basher vehicle, equipped withe bushings, a heavy driveshaft, and just generally cheaper stuff. The TC3 is a racecar, designed for performance. The reason people buys kyoshos is cause they're cheap.

[jkerr0043]

If you're very budget minded and don't plan to race, you can get away with a Kyosho. If there are any plans to race in the future, the TC3 is really the best way to go.

[WheelNut]

I would just get the TC3. Associated has way better parts suport, and it undoubaly handles better. I think the Alpha has *gasp* friction shocks! But dont quote me on that....

[Grizzbob]

Hmm, sounds like the Alpha is Kyosho's equivalent to Tamiya's TL-01, built to be strong & fun, but not really equipped for serious racing without major modifications.....:cool:

[PCC]

Originally posted by PCC
Unfortunately, the car came without the motor clamp, motor cam, and motor heatsink (I have an ad posted in the "Wanted" section for these), but, for the price I got the car for, I'm not complaining.

I posted this a few days ago and no hits. Can someone help a brother out?

[dave rankin]

by changing the ride height with the preload spacers wont the tension of the shock springs also change?
or would the progressives be the only ones that would actually change?

[FireFly980]

Originally posted by PCC


I posted this a few days ago and no hits. Can someone help a brother out?

I didn't see a question there, so I imagine that is why nobody responded. Just go to the store and buy a motor clamp and cam. If you are going to be racing the TC3, you will break something sooner or later! So, you need to scope out a readily available supplier of parts so that you can keep on racing from week to week!

[aeb3man_44]

Are there any good spring combinations for bettter handling?
My tc3 is lower in the back then the front, is that because the rear spings are softer? What if i put the gold in the rear and silver in the front?:confused:

[Dingus]

The car will work well almost anywhere. It depends on your track and conditions. To start, copy someone else's setup, preferably someone whose car is working.

The back is lower than the front because of the preload spacers (or lack thereof). Use the spacers or the threaded shock bodies to adjust the ride height, then the tweak.

Use spring rates to adjust traction and response time. Generally speaking. Softer springs = more traction and slower response (to a point) Stiffer Springs = less traction and faster response (until traction is lost)

Do yourself a favor and buy the Tuning guide from Associated. $3.95 WELL spent.

[t3dude]

is anyone interested in tradeing my hopped up micro for a tc3?
if so email me at
tonynalli@yahoo.com

[NewToNitro]

:( :rolleyes:

[aeb3man_44]

NewToNitro, t3dude, please post that in the trading section, the tc3 forum has people who are into their tc3's and dont want to get rid of them

[NewToNitro]

Sorry......

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

PCC, I suggst you look on ebay for those parts, and If you can't find them, you'll be better off if you just order them...

[PCC]

My first post was referring to an ad I placed in the "Wanted" forum for those parts I need to get the car running. Yes, I have a pretty good, but small, LHS here and I've been resisting ordering these from them with the hope that I could save a few $ buying these parts from someone here. A few pages back someone was suggesting that you replace the Factory Team motor heatsink and motor cam hold-down with other pieces so I figured someone here would have those pieces available. Nevertheless, I may have found a friend who has upgraded his TC3 and he's willing to sell me his parts. I just have to wait until he returns from vacation.

[StevePond]

This thread appears to be working properly now. Please let me know if you have any other problems.

[BobHastings]

forum testing 1-2-3

[Crazy Canuck]

Thanks guys.

Heres a TC3 tip: dremel out the chassis around the motor, and you can add 5 mm of space to cool the motor on each side.

[dc racer]

Thanks SteveP

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I finally got the funding to get the FT TC3! Can anyone give me hints or building tips? It would be greatly appreciated... :(

[UrbanCowboy]

Can anyone tell me about how fast a TC3 will go with an 8T motor? I'm trying to compare to a stock motor. Thanks

[Crazy Canuck]

Well... Heres what I can tell you. On a 75 foot straight at my local track, a stock motor covers irt pretty fast. When I run a 13x2, Its down there before you have time to blink.

If your bashing, it would be much faster. I dont know how much, in mph, but much faster than with a stock. If your racing, it depends on the track, and 8T might be too much motor.

[Crazy Canuck]

I finally got around to taking some pics

[Crazy Canuck]

This is what I was talking about with the motor mount:

[Crazy Canuck]

Back view:

[UrbanCowboy]

Thanks Crazy. Any other responses anyone gives are also appreciated. Have a good one.

[WheelNut]

Any one knwo what the best castor setting is for running on a fairly smooth street? stock mabye? Or shoudl i go with more? I know that more will help me handle bumpy tracks better, but what exactally constitutes a bumpy track?

[bustedparts]

I am new to the tc3 seen and I need some setup tips!I am going to be running indoor this comming weekend and I was wondering what tires (Foam or rubber) should I run?Also the suspension is all messed up!I am going to go through it befor the weekend and I need to know what shock oil to run and color springs to run.I am putting the factory sway bars on it as well.The tc3 already has silver in the rear and gold in the front and I have no idea what weight oil it has in the shocks.I am buying some set up tools this week to aid in chassi set up but I need a idea were to start at.Thanks guys!

[JimmyMac]

<b> Carpet Tracks</b> Well first I'd see what the track allows. Some tracks won't let you run rubber tires on their carpet tracks (mostly east coast tracks). While other tracks (west coast) run rubbers. (Just an observation) As far as setup, run the carpet setup in the manual. It's a good starting point. In carpet, you usually run everything heavier (springs, oil....).

[UrbanCowboy]

Ok, The time has come. Can someone tell me where to get the best price on a new TC3 Team version?

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Doesn't anyone have building tips? I could use all the help I could get...

[WheelNut]

Building tips? Just read the TC3 manual well, and dont crank down on the srcews hard or they will strip! I dont know what else to say the TC3 is super simple and easy to build. imo.

I would think towerhobbies, would have a good price. Their pretty much the biggest on-line shop hobby shop in the world.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Thanx for the tips. I got the car new in the box on ebay, and I hope to get it soon. He lives in michigan, and I just sent the money order yesterday...

Shou