Associated TC3 Forum v1.0

[Dingus]

I used to race at Kinetix Indoor Carpet, then bought by Cedar Park Hobbies, then closed.

I have been racing Mod Truck at Discount Hobbies in Georgetown and the track in Killeen.

Race once in a while at Hobbytown South's Parking lot track (built huge for nitro, boring for electric).

We are getting a new onroad parking lot track with Cedar Park hobbies soon.

Georgetown is moving a bit and rebuilding their track to run at nights I hope.

[Crazy Canuck]

Man, Im getting really frustrated with my TC3. It keeps bending hingepins very slightly, and throwing off all my settings.

All of you with the little ears on thye chassis for droop screws, do you find they dont lose a droop setting as fast?

Thanks

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I'm currently putting together my FT TC3. I'm currently at the shock towers....THIS IS FUN!!! :D

[jkerr0043]

Originally posted by Crazy Canuck
Man, Im getting really frustrated with my TC3. It keeps bending hingepins very slightly, and throwing off all my settings.



I think Lundsford may make Ti pins. Either that or Hardcore. Ti ones shouldn't bend. Are you using the stock ones?

[Crazy Canuck]

BRP. I dont want to use Ti pins, because it wrecks the arm mounts if you do that.

[dusterk]

hey guys, I need a good pinion size for stock spur with a 13turn mod moter.

Thanks
Dusty

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

So, I'm done building my car, and I have a question. I got those 10-spoke yokomo wheels, and I had to drill holes in the wheel, to fit over the drive trian thing. The real question is that there is no room to screw the hex on the wheels. How can I solve this? I am using pliers to screw them on, but I don't think it will hold. I don't want to get new wheels, so I wanna know how to fix it...

[Crazy Canuck]

dusterk, check the manual. Those gears are a good starting point, but they tend to be a little high, maybe try 1 tooth lower.

xxx/tc3, there isn't really a way to screw the nuts on on wheels like that except with pliers. If you have a full size lathe, you can put your nut driver on it, and shave the end so its narrower and will slide in. The alternative would be to either get some BRP TC3 locking wheel nuts, which are much smaller, or to use the pliers, and a little bit of loctite.

[jkerr0043]

I like using the HPI dish wheels. You don't have to worry about the pliers problem, they seem to go onto the hubs more easily, and the black ones look great. Has any one ever noticed that on the Yokomo wheels, they tend to fit really tight? By the way, here's the latest body for my TC3. I just finished it last night.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

That's exactly what I'm talking about! I'm afraid I will have to buy the wabash wheels. It sucks when you buy something, and it doesn't fit. I had to drill the holes larger than what they were.... :)

[jkerr0043]

whatever you do don't buy the ofna dish wheels. the lock nuts fit down into a recess and it's hard to get needle nose in there to tighten them up, let alone a nut driver.

[Crazy Canuck]

Just use pliers and a bit of loctite

And I second not using OFNA wheels. They really are junk. I recommend Speedmind. Stay away from Proline, they rub on the ballcups.

[Racin Rev]

I have the ofna wheels and while I won't buy another set I am to poor to not use the set I have. I have two different sizes for nuts. the larger is no problem and the shorter doesn't reach. I solved the problem by putting the nut on upside down.

[Grizzbob]

I still don't get that one, I've heard that about people having trouble getting a wrench in there with the OFNA wheels, but I've never had a problem with that(maybe it's the wrenches I use, I have a cheap set from Popular Mechanics that seems to fit in the recess just fine so I can crank the nuts down good). Abotu using Yokomo wheels, you can get them to fit eaier, just ream out the little hole a bit more. I do it with ALL Yok wheels now, just remember, you don't have to worry too much about that hole, as long as the hex fits right(that's what keeps the wheel properly centered). The reason for the fit being so much tighter on a TC3 is because the threaded part of the axle has a larger diameter than any of Yokomo's, so it's naturally a VERY tight fit...:)

[redneck]

i had that wheel nut problem with shumacher rims
i had to file a associated wheel wrench down to fit in the rims but it striped fast.
i made three wrenches that way now i just use surgical clamps (forceps) and i have no more problems

[BrianCio]

I was driving and hit a bike with the side of the Tc3. I usually drive this car like a rally car and its fine. please help me, the green esc box's green light went out. I have giggled the wires and got it running once but now not even giggling wires or "bumping" the car will get my poor green light back on. Any ideas on how to see whats wrong? does it need to be "reset"? How do i do that? RTR is great but, it makes it harder when something breaks since i have no idea whats going on.

Thanks!!!

[cedric4]

Ok, here is what my LRP Runner plus reverse user guide says to setup:Check that speed control is not connected to the drive battery; remove the motor pinion or ensure in some other way that the wheels of the model are free to rotate; switch the transmitter on; set the transmitter throttle stick to neutral; connect the speed control to the battery; hld the setup button pressed in for at least 2 seconds using the plastic screwdriver supplied; the setup LED flashes green and the unit automatically stores the neutral position; move the transmitter stick first to full throttle forward and then to full throttle reverse; release the trhottle stick and leave it at neutral; press the setup button again to store these settings; the setup LED now glows green constantly; your Runnwer plus reverse is now completely setup and ready to run. I would try this after you made sure all the wires are tight and no breaks in them. Good luck

[BrianCio]

You are the man. Wires scraped the ground and shredded a piece shorting the system. It's fixed. Thanks!

[ole]

what parts break easily with the tc3? what parts should i stock or hop ups should i buy to make it durable? i'm planning to buy a factory team kit this week? can i use other brand of spur gears? is it true that the parts are very brittle?

[jkerr0043]

I use Robinson gears and make sure you have at least one spare on hand at all times. Have a set of front and rear arms, some ball studs maybe. I also upgraded to the RPM rod ends. I really don't like the stock ones. They seem a little skimpy to me.

[ole]

Originally posted by ole
what parts break easily with the tc3? what parts should i stock or hop ups should i buy to make it durable? i'm planning to buy a factory team kit this week? can i use other brand of spur gears? is it true that the parts are very brittle?

[Dingus]

Oddly, the car seems fragile on light hits and not the big ones.

Just get a good bumper (RPM wide or Penguin wide) and a set of RPM nerf wings for the rear. While it is still possible to break front arms with this, I have not.

I have had my FTTC3 for almost a year. Still have the stock spur with no problems on asphault or carpet. Just keep it clean.

Some will say the graphite bits are more brittle, but I cant tell the difference. They are a little more expensive to replace.

One problem I have had is the steering knuckles strip where the ball stud threads in. I hear there are aluminum ones avail, but I just replace them as needed.

The rpm ballcups are a good idea, but make sure you pop them on and off a few times to loosen them or they could bind the suspension. Also, better to pop a ballcup off than break an arm.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I guess I'll just screw them on backwards. I'm disappointed that there is no easy fix for this.

I've got another question. What are the extra holes in the top gearbox covers for? The one in front of, and the one behind the shock tower..

Also, Does anyone here own the Tamiya Audi S4 body? Does it fit the TC3? Do you have any pics? Thanx... :)

[cedric4]

I don't have any extra holes in the top of the gearbox cover. There are 6 that accept the screws to bolt the 2 halves together, and 3 for the shock tower/brace. I am disappointed that those 3 go all the way thru. Is that what you mean?

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Nope. I have a hole in front of the front screw holding the shock tower, the two screws for the shock tower, and one right behind it.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Do you think I could put cross rc wheels on my car? I think they might work better... :(

[jkerr0043]

I know what hole you're talking about. I think it may be a mold flaw because it relly serves no purpose and I don't think all of the gear cases have them. It may have been something in the mold during a givin batch or something.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

So, should I be concerned about it? I don't know if I should thread a screw into the four holes, of what..

[jkerr0043]

Do you think running a front one way can increase punch out of the corners? I always thaught it was for large sweeping tracks with high grip, but since I moved to expert stock, I seem to not have the punch that a lot of the top guys have (I'm running the same equipment motor/battery, etc...)and they're all running one ways on a fairly tight parking lot track, even the guys running TC3's. And in the last month or so, the Tamiya's have been showing up and have been dominating at our track. Anyone else notice this?

[jkerr0043]

I haven't been concearned about the ones on my car and I've been running it for about 9 months now, an had no problems with them. Don't worry about them.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Ok. Thanx. do you know of my wheel situation?

[jkerr0043]

yeah, like I said earlier, just stick to the HPI wheels. You won't have to worry about it.

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by XXX/TC3 Racer
Nope. I have a hole in front of the front screw holding the shock tower, the two screws for the shock tower, and one right behind it.

Thats a new gearbox that they designed for the Nitro TC3. It fits both, its just the NTC3 has an extra mounting hole in the shock tower. Nothing to worry about.

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by jkerr0043
Do you think running a front one way can increase punch out of the corners? I always thaught it was for large sweeping tracks with high grip, but since I moved to expert stock, I seem to not have the punch that a lot of the top guys have (I'm running the same equipment motor/battery, etc...)and they're all running one ways on a fairly tight parking lot track, even the guys running TC3's. And in the last month or so, the Tamiya's have been showing up and have been dominating at our track. Anyone else notice this?

The oneway increases your speed in the middle of the corner. Its also very tricky to drive with.

[cedric4]

The only time I would worry about those "extra" holes is if they go all the way through. Then you could get crud down in the gears. If that is the case put a screw in them.

[cedric4]

I am not endorsing the motors or the seller, but I was cruising ebay and saw 4 orion pilot motors. The auctions close in about 7 hrs. There is 1 each 15t, 17t, 19t and 21 t (doubles all)new in box for $17.99 each. And a 13t which doesn't end for about 5 days unless you opt for the buy now feature also at $17.99. I don't know if these are good bad or indifferent, just thought I would let you guys know.

[Dingus]

I don't know much about these motors either, but I do know that the prices are VERY close to retail. Look on the Orion site.

[cedric4]

Ok guys next problem. Remember I am a newbie with a TC3 RTR. It comes with a 19 turn motor that best I can tell is not rebuildable. I cleaned it this afternoon. Just pulled brushes, sprayed everything with brake fluid and put a tiny bit of automotive motor oil on the bushings. (About a drop). I went out and ran it. It ran fine but if I stopped I had to push it a little to get it going again. Normal speed and noise when it was running. No sound when I tried to go from a stop. This is not a problem just practicing, but probably is if it still does it when I decide to try and race. Ideas?

[cedric4]

Sorry, motor cleaner. I was going to write brake CLEANER but it really was Trinity Buggy Blast.

[Dingus]

Make sure your brush shunts (wires) are free to move. If they cannot move a little, the brushes will throughout the run and slowly lose contact with the comm.


If you are gonna race, just get a decent stock motor or a better 19t like the Chameleon. The rtr motor is not really suited for anything but play. Nothin wrong with that, but you will be surprised with the difference in the top end.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I got that same 19 turn Spec modified stock chameleon motor for my FT TC3. I love it. Not too much power, and it makes the car very controlable and fun...

Does any of you run the 15 spoke Cross wheels? I wanted to know if they worked for the TC3. I need to know soon, because My Silvia comes to the LHs this weekend, and then I will place an order while I'm there. Do they have pre-mounted tires? What size should I get? Will they fit for the TC3? Thanx!
-A. Swift
Anthony.Swift@attbi.com

[cedric4]

Thanks Dingus. I'll check that. The outboard one is ok, but I'll have to pull the motor to get to the inboard one. I did not think of that as a cause, thought it would quit running or run erratically.

[cedric4]

Dingus, you recommend a Chameleon 19 as a replacement. I am planning on running stock class to start out. I believe that is supposed to be 27 turn. And my LHS says nobody would have a problem if I kept the present motor that came with the RTR, unless I started winning. Is there a 27 T that you would recommend, and should I stay with the 19 until it needs replacing. Anyone else have any input?

[Dingus]

I don't know your driving skills, but if you are relatively new to racing, then stay with the rtr motor until you feel confident enough to gain more speed.

The Chameleon would be a big jump at this point and a good stock motor will need regular maintenance.

Most any stock motor will work fine at first. There are many opinions on this matter though.

Make a friend with a lathe or find someone who will charge a small amount for a cut. If you want to keep costs down, then cut the motor and replace the brushes every 10 to 12 runs and use the stock for racing only. Repeat until you notice a drop in performance, then replace.

I use the Putnam tuned P2K2's, but the regulars are just fine as is the P2K. For long tracks, maybe the MVP or Green Machine, but I have known people who use them on tight tracks also, just don't overgear them.

See what everyone else is running, but jump on every fad until it is proven to be faster.

[Grizzbob]

Granted the original P2K may not be ideal in all situations, but I still recommend it for a first stock motor, as I do consider it the toughest stocker I know of, & they're still plenty powerful(they just lack some top end, but you can compensate some with gearing). They can tolerate a bad gearing, hot weather, all the usual abuse & still keep cranking out good power & torque(& on small, tight tracks it's still the motor to beat). It's about as close to a bulletproof motor(among competition stockers) as you'll find......:)

[jkerr0043]

I noticed on some of Barry Bakers setup sheets that he runs a locked front diff. I've heard of some of the guys running TC3's at my local tracks also doing this. How exactly do you lock the diff and what will it do to the handling? I'd think it would make the car push like crazy but maybe I'm wrong.

[PCC]

A locked diff will give whatever end it is installed in less traction. So, if you have it in the front then the car will push. If you have it in the rear then the car will have oversteer. The thing is that if the car has a lot of oversteer with regular diffs and you have tightened the front diff as much as you can and it still oversteers then a front locked diff might be the answer. I tend to run my diffs a bit on the loose side and compensate with the suspension settings but I still have a lot to learn about setting up the handling on my cars.

[Dingus]

The Barry Baker setup includes the rear tower on the front and softer front springs. It compensates for the push of the locked diff.

The Reedy Race did not allow one ways. So this was the answer. With the Baker setup, it is basically like a one way with brakes. A lot of people have come to like the way it drives this way because you can choose a variety of lines (brakes).

Many are locking the diff by simply tightening the current diff. Some are getting creative with other solutions like removing the bearings and ading card stock or shaved erasers instead of bearings. I hear there is a company that is going to produce a spool that will be completely locked.

The thing to remember is you need to run the rear tower on the front with the softer springs to make the locked diff work. I like it a lot. Still a little push on entry, but awesome mid and exit.

[jkerr0043]

Then why not just run a one way? One of the guys I talked to said he tried it and didn't like it because you HAD to use the brakes to get the rearend to kick around. Sounds kind of like drifting to me.

[WheelNut]

I finally got my new motor and ESC. The Hitec HFX esc, and a new speed gem pro motor, an 11turn double.

Lets just say this thing FLIES!!! Faster than its ever been, way more fun than it was before with the P2K. Mabye 2 times the top end. I'm running 23/78 gearing which works out to a 3.39 ratio, the AE recommended gearing is a 3.43 ratio. I had to use this since my LHS didnt have a 21t 48p pinion, but it didnt matter since I needed a new spur any ways. :) The car is much quieter now.

The ESC works well so far, it gets quite hot after a full run on 3000's. I just ice the esc and the motor though so it doesnt take long to cool it off. For its price ($120cdn-72usd) its a great deal. A 3 wire esc that is quite small. I can fit my receiver flat on the chassis now, its a perfect fit. Heres a picture.

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Sep/20029131772538500911676.jpg

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Sep/20029134297693190807570.jpg

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Sep/20029137583863810730668.jpg

http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Sep/20029134626170125825213.jpg

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by jkerr0043
Then why not just run a one way? One of the guys I talked to said he tried it and didn't like it because you HAD to use the brakes to get the rearend to kick around. Sounds kind of like drifting to me.

They outlawed Oneways because they had too many big pileups where one person hits the wall, then noone else can brake, they all spin out and hit each other.

The locked front diff would be the same as a oneway on power, but it wouldnt freewheel off power, which is why you need soft springs in the front, to compensate for the crappy turn in.

Dont bother with locking diffs, it doesnt work. Just stick with full time 4WD, and when you get really good, try a oneway.

[PCC]

I just missed out on a new Factory Team TC3 for $100!

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

NNNNOOOOOOO!!!!!!! I just bought a FT TC3 for 280.50, plus 10 dollars in shipping and handling. How did you miss out on that? Where was this deal?

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Come out to Vancouver, BC. I'll race you, =).

Trinity GT-1 9 Turn Double
LRP Quantum Competition
Sanyo 3000s
Audi TT Body

Should be fairly good competition.

[PCC]

My brother has been going out to the LHS for some night-time electric racing and I decided to stop by and check things out. Some kid I met out there had a built but never run FT in his backpack for sale. I didn't have the money in my pocket but told him I would in a few days. He sold it that night.

He emailed me that his buddy has a RTR Team for sale for $100 but I'm going to pass on it. I already ordered the FT chassis kit with all the other graphite impregnated parts and I should be picking that up on Tuesday. Yes, I already have the IRS chassis but the local races can be real hackfests so I want some protection from the tub chassis.

[UrbanCowboy]

I'm trying to piece together everything I need to run my TC3 Team kit. I'm looking to get a stock P2k motor and an Associated Ti Modified 12 Double Motor. What pinions do I need to get for these two motors if I use the stock spur gear that comes with the kit?

[cedric4]

urbancowboy The question these guys are going to ask is what kind of track are you running on.long short tight?

[UrbanCowboy]

I'm not too picky at this point, I just dont want things to overheat. None the less, I'll be running on a smooth parking lot surface on a track with a dozen or so turns and maybe one straightaway that's 30ft long. However, I'll also be zooming around w/o a track quite often as well.

Thanks Cedric4

[Grizzbob]

In that case, I'd suggest you not skimp on this & try to buy as many different pinions as you can afford, maybe starting from 18-26 teeth, & if you can afford more, then get them. You're going to want the bigger pinions for playing around with a lot of space, & for small tight tracks(which is what it sounds like you have) you'll need the smaller ones, especially with a mod motor..:)

[UrbanCowboy]

Well that's hardly helpful Grizzbob. Could you give me a little more useful information?

[Grizzbob]

I'm serious. For what you describe, you're going to need every pinion you can get if you want to avoid burning up a motor or two. There is NO SINGLE gear that'll magically work for all situations, it just doesn't work that way. you can believe me or not, it's up to you, only trying to give you what you need....

[UrbanCowboy]

Okay, lets try this a different way. Will the following setups work?

Stock Spur Gear

Trinity P2k Copper Head Pro with 28 tooth pinion
Associated Ti Modified 12 Double Motor with a 22 tooth pinion

[Dingus]

I agree with Grizzbob.

However, 28 seems too high for a tight track with a stock motor. Ask around and copy. For street play, just use what you would for racing as it doesn't really matter. I would use a different motor for play though. Like a beat up stocker. Motors are too delicate and expensive to have fun with anymore.

[UrbanCowboy]

If I was concerned about money, I wouldn't have gotten into this hobby :) Thanks for the posts guys :)

[FireFly980]

Originally posted by XXX/TC3 Racer
I guess I'll just screw them on backwards. I'm disappointed that there is no easy fix for this.

I've got another question. What are the extra holes in the top gearbox covers for? The one in front of, and the one behind the shock tower..

Also, Does anyone here own the Tamiya Audi S4 body? Does it fit the TC3? Do you have any pics? Thanx... :)

The 2 extra screw holes in the posts on top of the differential case are intended for use with the NTC3 and Associated now makes the differential cases to be interchangeable. Of course, it's only the new cases that have the 2 extra screw holes.
FYI, the hole closest to the center of the car goes all the way into the differential. I just put a small screw into the top of it to keep the gravel out when I'm racing on the parking lot!
If the Tamiya Audi S4 body is a 190mm touring car body, it should fit unless the holes are already in it for mounting. Even then, they can sometimes be made to fit.

[ole]

anybody has experience using GPM , MEGATECH and KINWALD aluminum arms , c-hubs , knuckle arms, pivot blocks and steering rack? what alum parts do you recommend?

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I'm gonna explain my whole situation. I wanted that audi soo bd, but I couldn't find it. So, I will buy it from Towerhobbies. I will take out the body and wheels, and either let my brother buy it from me, or sell it. I wanted to know if the body will have enough clearance on either side. Will I need to buy special wheels with 0mm offset? Will I be able to use the tamiya wheels for my FT TC3? Will I have to drill holes into those wheels too, to make them able to fit over the axle, and not be able to tighten the wheel nuts, or should I get the Cross 15-spoke wheels? Thanx!
-A. Swift
Anthony.Swift@attbi.com :D

[ole]

Originally posted by ole
anybody has experience using GPM , MEGATECH and KINWALD aluminum arms , c-hubs , knuckle arms, pivot blocks and steering rack? what alum parts do you recommend?

[Dingus]

The only part I have used from GPM is the center one way. The only other part I want is the servo/transponder mount from IRS.

From what I understand (and I admit, I have very little experience with alum upgrade stuff outside Factory Team items) the alum parts will either bend or transfer the shock of a wreck to another part of the car ie the next plastic part. Like breaking a main shaft when using a one way. Associated does not generally recommend alum because some of the plastic parts are designed to break to save other costlier parts. Like an arm instead of the tranny.

I can also see using the alum steering blocks as the plastics tend to strip or pull out on impact.

anyone else?

[EricF]

What is typically used to define the lanes on a carpet track? Wood, PVC, old fire hose? Any opinions on what works best?
What have you guys seen in your travels to different tracks or at your own track?

Eric

[Dingus]

I last raced with PVC. I did not like because every hit would put you slightly under the rounded part of the pipe. Because the cars are run so low, even a BRP Bumper would only do so much. The main part slips under and the foam and body take the impact. Especially hard on 1/12th scales.

I would think a light, flat plastic would be ideal.

[Grizzbob]

Yeah, for straight walls wood or PVC is ok, but for turns & curves, I prefer a flexible plastic, like what S&N's Trackside in Milwaukee uses, it can be firm enough for an effective barrier, but it has give to it so bodys & chassis don't get damaged when they hit. The first time I saw it in action was in a Tamiya TCS race(& most of us know how fragile Tamiya's highly detailed bodies can be), & I didn't see ONE broken body the entire weekend. I even hit them my share of times, but the body was almost totally undamaged after the event(a first time for that for me).....:D

[Crazy Canuck]

I like heavy wood board tracks. Even though when you hit them, you break sometimes, they force you to go slow and drive smoothly, stay off the walls. I like that, but some people don't.

[Crazy Canuck]

I figured out what it is about the TC3 that always bugs me: when you change your setup a little bit, it still feels just as fast, so its hard to judge if the changes help.

Last weekend, I ran at a race with open mod and Nitro. Mod was rubber, the gas guys ran foam. The strange thing was, myself, and all the electric guys were running with the gas cars. The straight was about 200' long, and hte track was about 50' wide, with 10-12 foot lanes.

Is that a small track?

[jkerr0043]

That's huge! Especially compaerd to the tracks I race. Ours are about half that size (or less) with 6-8 foot lanes. But on tracks like that, it's not uncommon for us (stock electric!) to be as fast or faster than the nitro classes. They have the advantage in the straight, but everywhere else on the track, the electrics are much smoother and faster.

[Allen T]

I have a RTR TC3 with the supplied 19 turn motor. I've been told that a good stock motor (27T) is probably just as fast.

I want to try either a P2K2 Pro Stock, or an Orion Core Stock.

Any suggestions/opinions on which is better?

Also, I don't race this car, just have fun with it. The 19T Associated motor has (I believe) a 24 tooth pinion.

Should I buy a set of Robinson 48 pitch pinions (6 pack, odd or even....16 to 26 and 15 to 25 tooth) to experiment with the gearing? Is 48 pitch right for the TC3?

Thanks in advance, and sorry for all the "rookie" questions!:D

Allen

[Crazy Canuck]

DOnt get a stock motor for bashing. Its designed to make as much speed as possible with no reagrd for life. If you have no intentions of racing, stay with the one youve got. It doesnt run very hot, and it has good power and runtime. MAybe get your LHS to cut the comm and replace the brushes.

[jkerr0043]

Both of those stock motors are race motors. (Personally I love my Orion Core motors!) If you're looking to get more speed out of it, maybe try one of the lower cost trinity modifieds like the speed gems motors. They're cheap and they're better for bashing. Try a 13 or 14 turn. It will be very fast but it won't burn up brushes like one of the good stocks or a high end modified. As far as gearing goes, 48 pitch is fine, Robinson gears are very good gears and if you can get a good deal on the even or odd set, I go for it. That way if you decide to go with one of the hotter speed gems motors, you have a selection. Just remember, the hotter the motor, the smaller the pinion. You don't want to over gear a modified.

[ole]

what parts do you usually stock for your tc3? what parts break easily? any comments about durability? i'm planning to buy one, a factory team. should i replace the plastic outdrives with aluminum or steel?

[jkerr0043]

I actually like the plastic outdrives better. I stock one ore two spare spur gears, front and rear arms, I have a full set of hinge pins, and try to keep a few turn buckles with rod ends already threaded on. (for a quick fix) I've been very lucky with my TC3. It's the must durable car I've ever had and It's take some hard licks

[Allen T]

Canuck and jkerr,

Thanks for the replies. I guess I'll stick with the 19T that's in there.

As far as Mod motors go, I can't go less than 19 turns with the LRP Runner Plus that came with it. I also heard from someone that a friend of his had a RTR TC3, and installed a Chameleon. Smoked the ESC quick. (I think he knew 2 people that this happened to)

I basically just want to have fun.

I'm just looking for some cheap speed, without burning something up:D

If anyone has a suggestion on a 19T or over motor that's good for bashing, I'm listenin'! Otherwise, I'll stick with the "stock" one that's in it.

I have some pics of a couple of bodies I painted, if anyone wants to check 'em out, let me know. (the only 2 bodies I've painted)

Thanks again, Allen

[jkerr0043]

Post the pics. I think we're all always interested in seeing other people cars. I'd stick to what you've got if you're not interested in upgrading your ESC. HOWEVER:D if you want to spend a little money on a higher end ESC that can handle the lower turn motors, I'd look at one of the Novaks. They can usually handle motors that will speed you up and they're pretty reasonable on their pricing. I wouldn't go with the Chamealeon 19 turn for the same reason as the hot stocks. They're basically a stock motor with a 19 turn armature and bearings. Just remember, don't get something that's too fast. You won't be able to handle it and it won't be any fun. (Besides the breakage may end up costly:eek:

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by ole
what parts do you usually stock for your tc3? what parts break easily? any comments about durability? i'm planning to buy one, a factory team. should i replace the plastic outdrives with aluminum or steel?

The BRP or RPM wide front bumper is a must have. I reccomend the BRP nerf wings, too.

If you plan to run mod, definitely replace the plastic outdrives with metal. If you dont have the diff set perfectly, you will melt the diff (trust me, its not fun, unless you want a solid axle, which you dont). I have melted at least 2 in this fashion.

Keep front C hubs, steering knuckles, a steering rack, hinge pins, and some arms in your box, and youre set.

[Allen T]

Here are the bodies I've painted:

The Celica is airbrushed with Pactra Candy Purple and Pearl Charcoal, with Orion graphics.

The Dodge is Tamiya spray-canned. Metallic Red and Camel Yellow.

[Allen T]

Here's the Dodge....I wanted a Bonneville Salt Flat type paint scheme. I like this one a lot. The masks are Parma.

[Timmy]

Nice bodies Allen. I have not hard of anyone fring there ESC with the Charmelon Motor. Mabye he didn't gear it down or maybe something in the drivetrian was binding. Well anyway you should get some type of stock motor. P2K , P2K2 , GM3 and go race in a stock class. I plan on doing it next year with my TC3.

Ole I would say to get some aluminum outdrives from what I have been hearing. The stock ones cann melt or something if you are running a low wind. I guess maybe a 12 or less. Um so far I have broke and a-arm , a-arm mounts , bent a hinge pin , Broke stock bumper. Hear is the deal don't crash into any solid thing. lol
I got the new RPM bumper and haven't broke anything since. I let you know how it holds up in a major crash. I don't plan on having one though.

What do you guys reccomend for replacement bearings. I think mine my be geting old. I tell you my motor story when I come home from school.

[Crazy Canuck]

You shouldnt have to replace your bearings, unless your Kinwald and you drive the wheels off your car. Just take them out and soak them in motor spray, then put a small drop of oil on each. Leave them overlight so the oil can work its way in around the seal, and youre set.

[crono man]

hey guys thinking of buying a tc3 racer just wanted to know what are the weak points of this car(hop ups that i should buy right away)..my friend has nitro tc3 and his main drive shaft wobbles like crazy,does the tc3 have the same problem? is there a cure for this?

thanks for any input:)

[Allen T]

Does anyone know if the 19T that comes in the RTR TC3 can be taken apart? Canuck suggested getting the comm cut, and new brushes.....But I don't think it comes apart. There are metal tabs holding the endbell on, NOT screws!

Allen

[FireFly980]

Originally posted by Allen T
Does anyone know if the 19T that comes in the RTR TC3 can be taken apart? Canuck suggested getting the comm cut, and new brushes.....But I don't think it comes apart. There are metal tabs holding the endbell on, NOT screws!

Allen

There are lathes that can cut the comm without removing it from the case, but you could also get the comm out of the case by just grabbing the motor and hitting the comm opposite the tabs, against a table and it bends the tabs out and the comm comes right out! Then, when you put it back, you just need to push the tabs back in!

FireFly

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by Allen T
Does anyone know if the 19T that comes in the RTR TC3 can be taken apart? Canuck suggested getting the comm cut, and new brushes.....But I don't think it comes apart. There are metal tabs holding the endbell on, NOT screws!

Allen

Bend the tabs with a flathead screwdriver. When you reinstall the endbell, use screws. You may have to get a timing ring, but thats not really a big deal.

[Allen T]

I'm going to check today with the LHS to find someone who cuts comms. I also need to get a motor with a removable endbell!

I'm stationed in Germany, so "LHS's" aren't that easy to find. I did, however, find a decent one.

Allen

[OGNI]

Hey guys!

I will buy a TC3 soon but I am not sure whether to take the Team
or the Factory Team edition. Do you think the Factory is worth the extra money?

Greetings,
OGNI:cool:

[jkerr0043]

I made mistak of buying the racer kit. NEVER AGAIN! IMO, there isn't that much of a difference in the price and you're usually going to end up getting the parts you didn't get with the team kit after the fact and end up spending a lot more money. For the money I've put into my TC3 to upgrade it, I could have probably baught a whole new car. If you plan to race and like having the upgrades etc... go all the way. You're wallet will regret it later if you don't.

[Crazy Canuck]

The factory is worth it if you plan to race. You really will end up getting most of the stuff that comes with it anyway.

[WheelNut]

I dont see anything else you'd need for the racer kit. The plastic shocks work fine, the turnbuckels dont really matter, you can replace at a very very low cost. And the CVD are plenty strong.

BTW-Crono man- The 2 drive shafts I've had on my TC3 have spun perfectally true.:D

[jkerr0043]

Originally posted by WheelNut
I dont see anything else you'd need for the racer kit. The plastic shocks work fine, the turnbuckels dont really matter, you can replace at a very very low cost. And the CVD are plenty strong.

BTW-Crono man- The 2 drive shafts I've had on my TC3 have spun perfectally true.:D

The three things I really am glad I upgraded were the threaded shocks, the ti turnbuckles and the teflon bearings. I've just always prefered having ti turnbuckles and it's so easy to fine tune the tweek out of your car with threaded bodies. And believe it or not, the difference between the stock and the telon sealed bearings is noticable. Oh and with todays stock motors, you've gotta have a heat sink on the motor.

[aeb3man_44]

I have the racer kit and it is a joy and it really works great, i don't think any of those upgrades really are neccisary to make your car a lot better, mine can compete with an ft, i don't care what they have on it

[LoGaN]

does anybody know about that dragon dummy cell for the tc3..if anybody knows were i can purchis it or find it on a website please post here.

[Crazy Canuck]

The plastic shocks wear out after a few months and lose performance. The aluminum ones are much more consistent, and much smoother.

The only problem Ive ever had with the driveshaft is when I put an overgeared 10x2 in my car, because I thought the track was going to be slipperier than it was, and the power and traction was just right to snap the shaft in half.

Basically the diff between the Racer and FT is if you and another driver drive equally well, you will win, because of the small differences.

[jkerr0043]

I'm not sure where you can get that dummie cell. Does anyone know if it's weighted like a real cell? I don't know if I'd like that. I use the battery position to adjust the handling sometimes.

[xxxkat]

I just bought a used TC-3 (team) its in great shape,had a few questions about radio gear,I ordered a Airtronics MX-3 FM radio,(great price)I know its new but anyone have one & if you do is it any good?Speed controler I have a Novak GT-7,it looks like it should be good,Servo I bought(today) a hitec HS-605 BB,do you think this servo will work?Or do I need this much torque?Specifications are:speed .16sec./60 deg. at 4.8 volts output torque 77oz. at 4.8 volts.Thanks for any help.

[jkerr0043]

I know the GT-7 is awesome. I've got one and it is very nice. Plus having different profiles for different types of racing is a big plus, especially when you run two different classes.

[OGNI]

I think I will buy the FT.

What springs do I need for getting a good setup on carpet
and concrete/outdoor tracks?Is there anything else you need?
Any options?

[Crazy Canuck]

Or carpet, you usually need stiff springs. For asphalt, softer, about the kit setting.

Start with this as a baseline setup:

F/R
Oil: 50/40
Springs: Gold/Silver (kit springs)
Camber: -1, -2
Droop: 6/4
Ride height: 5/5 or 7/7 for asphalt, so the chassis doenst bottom out
Shock mounting: Outside hole/Inside hole

Start with the batteries in the front slots. If you find the car pushes in the middle of the corner, move it to the back, it will make the car "swing" a bit more.

[OGNI]

Thanks for your input CC.
What of the nine different springs are the most common or do I need them all?What spare parts do you recommend?

Greetings
IH:cool:

[UrbanCowboy]

I just bought the whole set myself. Do the math. Buying them separate adds up fast.

[LoGaN]

so does any1 kno about the dumy cell

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

You can see it in this month's mag. It's on bary baker's tc3. It's called a dragon rc dummy cell spacer.

Today, I get a call from my LHS. The owner said I ca'nt get those cross 15-spoke mesh wheels I wanted, due to his distributers not carrying them. Now how do I get them? :rolleyes:

[Crazy Canuck]

Why not just get different rims? It doesnt really make a difference...

Getting the full set of springs is probably the cheapest way. The spare parts I always carry are steering blocks, C-Hubs, Arms, an extra BRP bumper, CVD bones, a couple of wheel nuts, and at least one diff. The other stuff I have, thats not really necssary, are shocks, ball cups, screws, tires, and any kind of hardware I replace, I keep the old ones just in case. If you really want to be prepared, carry a steering rack, they're usually hard to find, and you always break it when you least expect it.

On top of that Ive got a couple of extra motors, but thats not really car stuff.

[Crazy Canuck]

Oh yeah, hinge pins too, they like to bend at the wrong times.

[crono man]

thanks crazy canuck for the info well after much time checking out different tc cars i think im going to get the team tc3 car!!i always liked shaft driven cars(the only ones i owned):)

hope its a sturdy car im kind off a beginner in tc!
thanks again;)

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Because no one has them! I'm tiredd of seeing gumbys, axis, hpi 5-spokes, dishes, and the like. I wanna see my kind of rims. I can't find any rims that will fit the tc3 either. So, I want these to fit both categories...

[xxxkat]

To me the TC-3 is a tough car,does better in a head on than a brush against the wall but all sedans are the same in that one.At least if I do break something I can get parts.Crazy & crono you guys into hockey at all ?

[crono man]

nope, im into downhill mountain biking:D

[jkerr0043]

Originally posted by crono man
nope, im into downhill mountain biking:D

What do you ride? I ride a Giant DS2 w/ a Judy SL 100mm fork.

[xxxkat]

Well your in the right country,Canada's got it going on,More free riding,plus MBing is NOT a crime in Canada,you would think it was here in the states.Damm!

[Racin Rev]

that's because you live in the peoples republic of california. :D where the environmental wackos run the state.

[jkerr0043]

There's ton's of trainls down here in the San Diego area. I've got probably a dozen trails within 20 of my house

[xxxkat]

Well rub it in why dont ya,We have a few trails but they are NOT legal,if caught they will take your bike and you wont get it back. The us forest service took my last bike. The only good legal trails are about 1hr away. Bummer:mad:

[crono man]

JKERR0043-i ride a 2002kona stinky with a marzocchi z1 fork and hayes disc brakes its more of a freeriding machine but i use it for dh too:D

[jkerr0043]

Nice:D

I know all about the illegal trail deal. One of the best trails around is about ten minutes from my house. It starts legal, but keep heading north about tem miles and you end up on MCAS Miramar. (Yeah the one form Top Gun.) Not on the air strip though. There's a section about fifty square miles where there isn't anything out there but hills and brush. All fenced in. There's ton's of trails out there that you can see from the freeway but it's off limits. It's not uncommon to have a Jeep pull up and tell you to turn around if you get too close!

[jkerr0043]

By the way, here's a pic of what I ride, only mine has an upgraded fork.

[Timmy]

Um Nice Bikes guys. I have a BMX but always liked Mountian Bikes. I have a GT Mach One.

XXX/TC3 racer have you seen the HG rims. They are aluminum and look very nice. I would never get them to race but they sure look good for show. I think they are like maybe 60/set. I am not sure though.

Oh yea I had my TC3 clocked the other day with a P-94 12T Double and got 35.6mph. I was running 28/72 to get that speed. With a 20/72 I got about 29mph. I have a stock team kit and I am running a Novak Dually. I did buy the car used but everything seems alright. Is this a normal top speed for the car or may somthing be wrong. I have yet to find any problem with the car itself. I have been told FT bearings would get me another 5mph but they are $100. So what do you guys think it could be.

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by crono man
thanks crazy canuck for the info well after much time checking out different tc cars i think im going to get the team tc3 car!!i always liked shaft driven cars(the only ones i owned):)

hope its a sturdy car im kind off a beginner in tc!
thanks again;)

Youll like it, the problem with it is light hits break stuff, but heavy hits dont do anything. Its always the light taps where I rip an arm off.

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by xxxkat
Crazy & crono you guys into hockey at all ?

Im into hockey. I play houseleague though, no time for more, too much time playing RC.

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by XXX/TC3 Racer
Because no one has them! I'm tiredd of seeing gumbys, axis, hpi 5-spokes, dishes, and the like. I wanna see my kind of rims. I can't find any rims that will fit the tc3 either. So, I want these to fit both categories...

Go to www.magmarc.com, click on buy products, go to speedmind. They have a huge assortment of rim styles to choose from.

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by Timmy
Oh yea I had my TC3 clocked the other day with a P-94 12T Double and got 35.6mph. I was running 28/72 to get that speed. With a 20/72 I got about 29mph. I have a stock team kit and I am running a Novak Dually. I did buy the car used but everything seems alright. Is this a normal top speed for the car or may somthing be wrong. I have yet to find any problem with the car itself. I have been told FT bearings would get me another 5mph but they are $100. So what do you guys think it could be.

You dont need the FT bearings. If you really care about numbers, you might pick up 1-2 mph with them. If you want the most gain, take all the bearings out of the car, remove the seals, soak the bearings in motor spray, and relube them with one drop of oil each. Then reinstall them. You might pick up 2-5 mph depending on how dirty they were. THe only problem is, you would have to do that every couple of weeks, because without the seals, they get dirty faster.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Yeah, but I don't think they are worth it. You could scratch them too easily. I really want my cross... :(

[xxxkat]

For cleaning bearings on my RC cars I use a bearing cleaning system its made by AM system,Its a citrus base cleaner it comes in a tub with a lid & and a strainer,so you drop your bearings in, shake it up,let it sit overnight,clean bearings in the morning.They also include a good bearing oil.I found it at Big -5 (sporting goods store)It was $12 bucks.I bought a used tc-3 team and thats the first thing I did,took it all apart & cleaned the car,cleaning the bearings DID make a difference in the performance of my TC-3.To crazy,house is alot of fun ya get to pound on your friends & put them in their place.(hahahaha)

[jkerr0043]

I don't know about teflon bearings giving you that much extra speed. But you don't have to spend that much. Look @ tower hobbies. I think they have a Durtraxx set for around $40-50. That's what I used and they work great. That seems a litttle on the slow side but then again, I never judge my speed by MPH, I judge it by how I'm doing on the track.

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by XXX/TC3 Racer
Yeah, but I don't think they are worth it. You could scratch them too easily. I really want my cross... :(

If you want something trick, do this: Get some dish wheels, and some carbon fibre sticker paper, and you can make wheels that look like theyre carbon fibre.

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by xxxkat
house is alot of fun ya get to pound on your friends & put them in their place.(hahahaha)

Theere are only 2 guys from my school I play with, but one of thems a goalie, so I can take potshotsat him, hack him, etc, and he doesnt really care. Pretty funny when the ref thinks we're actually fighting.

[Crazy Canuck]

Anyone else ever snapped a driveshaft? I cracked it in half with a 10x2. I got on the throttle hard (I guess too hard) and the driveshaft came shooting out the side of the car.

[Crazy Canuck]

Anyone else ever snapped a driveshaft? I cracked it in half with a 10x2. I got on the throttle hard (I guess too hard) and the driveshaft came shooting out the side of the car.

[xxxkat]

Yea I did,had a 9x4 in it playing around on the street,bought a alum. shaft from Hardcore,no more problems.

[jkerr0043]

What digital servos does any one use?

[Crazy Canuck]

I dont use digital, I use a KO-2173FET.

Its really good, havent had any problems. Just be warned, if you do get KO, get a 6.0 volt servo, the 7.2 like to go "poof".

I would reccomend against Hitec, myself and many of my racer friends have had far too many bad experinces with them. They are cheap, and a lot of people will say theyre OK, but, for me, I would never buy another Hitec servo. All the ones Ive ever had have lost centre after a few months.

[jkerr0043]

I think I'm going to go with one of the Airtronics ones. Right now I'm using the POS that came with my M8. I looked it up and they sell that servo for like $15.00. It's got 50 oz of torque, and a slow transit time of .30 sec. The one I'm looking at has 130 oz & .08 sec! That's fast.

[Grizzbob]

Yeah, I really like Airtronics servos, I have one in each of my TC3's(one is a 94257 & the other is an older 94737, I think), & they've been just about bulletproof. I believe my 94257 is about 3 or 4 years old by now, & it hasn't missed a beat, still strong & fast & centers very nicely. Now for Canuck's question, no, I can't say I've ever broken a main driveshaft on either car, & I've also frequently used motors down to 11 & 10 turns. However, I have broken my fair share of CVD's, since I prefer to use the composite ones(& they make a good safeguard against breakage elsewhere in the drivetrain). Canuck, could you be using some Shiny CVD's instead of composite or aluminum?

[Crazy Canuck]

I use shiny in the front, composite in the rear. The only thing I can think of that might have done it is that the shaft wasnt quite true, it wobbled a bit.

That weekend was quite an experience. It was the first time Ive ever raced mod. Ive driven in practice before, but never raced. I melted one diff, and I sheared the head off the diff bolt on the other diff. What a day:p . Fortunately I put the two together to make one good one, plus I always carry a spare diff.

It was a rough asphalt track, and it ate my CS22s. Seriously, right down to the belt. Has anyone ever experienced that, or was I just unlucky? Maybe I just drive it too hard:D

[JimmyMac]

I still use my 94257 in one of my Touring Cars (my 414m2). It's been in my T3 as well as various touring cars since the late 90's. And it's still goin strong. I also have a digital 94757. Currently it's in my TC3 which I ran today. Nice as well. I would always stick with high dollar servos. With them I really feel that you get what you pay for.

Never broke a main shaft either. I also mainly use the composite CVD's as well. This was even with my 8x2. I think I've only broken 2 of them. But those were mainly crashes. Currently I'm running a 10x1 with no problems with my composites. I mainly stick with them because they don't warp like the aluminum ones.

[xxxkat]

Never had a aluminum shaft warp.

[jkerr0043]

Well I just ordered the 94755 digital from Tower. hopefully it'll be here by the end of the week for racing next week. I'm racing both Saturday and Sunday. (I love the first weekend of every month:)

It was a rough asphalt track, and it ate my CS22s. Seriously, right down to the belt. Has anyone ever experienced that, or was I just unlucky? Maybe I just drive it too hard

I did that to a set of CS32's about a month ago running a 19 turn. It was about 110F and the track temp was in the range of 160-170 on rough asphalt. A brand new set too.

[Crazy Canuck]

Good choice on the servo.

Thats gotta hurt with the tires, fortunately mine were worn anyway. I learned my lesson, Ill just keep my wornout carpet tires and use them outside.

[ole]

guys can i use rpm or losi ball cups for my factory team? which one's better? does anyone use megatech aluminum parts like aluminum arm mounts, knuckle arms and hub carriers? thanks.

[xxxkat]

I use RPM (short),no I dont use any aluminum parts on my suspenson,I race and I dont see a real need for them.If I hit something hard enough to break a suspenson part I dont think the aluminum part is going to help that much.(I may not break the aluminum part)I guess what Im trying to say is if you hit something hard enough,something will break,I would rather break a suspenson arm than mess up the chassis.You should also think about un-sprung weight and the effect on the suspenson.(if aluminum was the way to go,Associated would have put it the kits)

[jkerr0043]

That's the problem with any of the aluminum suspension or drive train parts. The shock from an impact will just go into the next plastic part, e.i. a diff or the chassis, or bulkheads. And those are usually more expensive and a lot more work to replace. They are cool looking, but that's about it.

[Crazy Canuck]

I saw in this month's caraction that Baker runs the XXXS steering blocks, and Ive heard they work well in other places too. Im rebuilding my car this week, Ill try running the XXXS parts. Im also gonna mill out the chassis a bit, Ill give a report on my findings soon. Im rebuilding Friday at the track, hopefully I can finish in time to get some track time in before the racing ends.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Talk about nifty. I thought that was clever. I think I should try it...If only I can get ahold of some..

I found a link to this nifty mod to do to your car...

http://rcvehicles.about.com/library/rc101/blrc101_tc3reartoe01b.htm

Is this worth doing?

I also wanted everyone to post pics of the wheels they use for their cars. I found someone to help me with my problem about the cross wheels. Thanx ShawnHPI. So, Please post pics of the wheels and the tires you use. I need advice on a great long lasting tire...

-A. Swift

[xxxkat]

To crazy canuck,remember Baker runs the rear tower up front and to do this you have to use the 2 hole arms,you can get his set up for this on Associated's web site.

[Timmy]

I don't have any pics of my tires but right now I am running HPI X-patterns on mine. They seem to me to last pertty long. Then agian this is the only new set of tires I have bought for mine. It came used with some HPI ones too. I forget what kind they were. I myself think the x-patterns work pertty well. I run mine on the street all the time with them and they also work fairly well for my weekly sunday parking lot racing. I have at least 40-50 runs on them I would say and they are not bald yet. It also depends how you drive too. I like to just slid around and do donuts for fun but it will cost ya money. My suggestion is to get a new set to race or even bash sometimes and keep your old set to mess around with till there no tire left. lol . Well good luck with what you get

Crazy - Do you know where I can see a car with those XXX-S steering blocks on. Sounds kinda interesting.

[Crazy Canuck]

The milling has nothing to do with the rear tower, new arms, and solid diff. Neither do the XXXS parts, its just a durability thing.

XXX/TC3, dont bother with the toe thing. It looks very fragile, and a whack of the boards would probably throw it way out of whack. Just stick with the 2 deg or 3 deg rear toe.

And about the wheels, I use Speedmind dish. For tires, its CS 22s. What kind of surface will you be running on? Asphalt likes to eat tires, so it might be advisable to get a very hard compound. Carpet is a bit easier, so you could probably get away with 4-5 months on a set of 27s.

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by Timmy
Crazy - Do you know where I can see a car with those XXX-S steering blocks on. Sounds kinda interesting.

Its in this months RCCA. Theyre not shown very well though. Ill post some pics after I swap mine.

[xxxkat]

For parking lot racing I use yokomo hot laps(the cheap ones)They hook up,last just as long as my sorexs & take offs do at half the cost,why spend the cash if you dont have to.Hey you guys know the trick for getting tires off your rims the easy way.Here goes,Pre-heat the oven to 450,turn oven off,place tires&rims on a baking sheet put the tires in to the oven(remember the oven IS TURNED OFF) set timer for 45min. when done tires will come right off.I have been doing this for about 10mo. now,it has allways worked for me.(I also race off-road on a track that eats tires)If ya want to try it cool,If ya dont cool,but DONT try to tell me it does not work.

[Crazy Canuck]

Although it may work to get the tires off, is there any rubber left on the rims after?

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I would think it would melt the rims to the wheels, and would burn like hell, not to mention the smell of burning plastic...I should try it!

[Scrad]

The easiest way is to just soak them in some acetone for about an hour and the glue gets all gel like and you pull the tires right off. The only thing is that the foams get ruined, but you get new foams when you get tires anyways so no big deal.

[xxxkat]

Ok,Why would I post something that does not work?Their is NO rubber left on the rim,Acetone easy?What are you "F"ing nuts,what do you do with the left over acetone?THAT IS TOXIC WASTE!!This is how it works,as the temp drops it crystallize the CA glue.(it allmost looks like sand)What you have to remember is the oven is OFF,the temp is droping!It DOES NOT melt the rim or tire.Damm,I was just trying to tell you guys an easier way of doing things.If you want to play with toxic chemicals thats your choice,not mine.(sorry for the rant) :cool:

[Scrad]

xxxkat, you must not have any women in your life. The main ingredient in nail polish remover is acetone. duhh Its not as toxic as you think. If it was so harmful for you do you think they would sell it at the hardware store? Plus I bet those nice fumes of baking your rims it good for you too .:D

[xxxkat]

Have a wife & kids older than you,the amount of acetone in nail polish is very small (less than 5%) ,as far as baking rims & smell their is none.If you think playing with acetone is a better way,thats cool,Read the warning lable on the acetone.And tell me its safer.I did not post to have you guys start trying to tell me that taking the tires off the rims "my way" wont work,As far as acetone NOT being toxic,OK if you say so.All I tried to do is tell you an easier way to do it,So do it any way you want.:cool:

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Dude, I wasn't hating. I said I'd try it. I just thought that the rim would melt, or sumthing. I tried this a time before, but the oven was at a much hotter temp. I never saiod it was stupid. geez...

[Dingus]

Don't playa hate.

[xxxkat]

Sorry dude.Not playing hate.Just did not dig comment about no women,I dont use nail polish,how would a guy know whats in that stuff.(I guess I could read the lable)But I did find out that its less than 5% acetone.Its all cool,I guess some of us should stay on our meds.

[Scrad]

I wasn't saying your way wouldn't work or anything. I've heard that is does. Like you said before I personally think it's easier to just soak my tires and peel them off rather than fire up the oven. But my point about the acetone is that you wouldn't think that a hardware store or cosmetic department would sell you some chemicals that will kill you and not have any precausion, like permit or such to buy it. If I had to wear a hazmat suit to use Acetone then I wouldn't use it.

The reason I knew about the Acetone in nail polish is because I was looking for the Acetone with my girlfriend with me and she said that nail polish remover was basically Acetone anyways.

[xxxkat]

We use it where I work,And with osha we damm near have to wear a hazmat suit,We had to take a class on work chemicals,Sorry about going on a rant.(sounded like my hazmat inst.)

[protocol_droid]

Most nail polish removers nowadays use ethyl acetate in place of acetone, FYI

[ole]

XXX-S PARTS on TC3


hey guys! whats that i saw on rc car action nov 2002. baker used xxxs steering blocks on his tc3. does the c-hubs fit also? do you need to dremel or modify parts to fit? how about the performance of the tc3 when i use these xxxs parts?

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

Read above. Crazy is gonna try it, and get back to us. Crazy, you are a crazy mofo with time and money. I envy you...

-A. Swift

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by XXX/TC3 Racer
Read above. Crazy is gonna try it, and get back to us. Crazy, you are a crazy mofo with time and money. I envy you...

What are you talking about? Im skipping the race this week to rebuild my car. Time my eye. I havent touched my car since a week ago. And my steering blocks are stripped anyway, and I somehow bent, not broke a rear hub carrier. So I would be spending the money on new parts anyway, might as well try them so long as they fit, which they do. I may have to Dremel something, big deal. Dremelling is free.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

What? I can't envy you???? At least you have a running car....

[protocol_droid]

I've done the xxxs modification and have a half a pack on the new setup. Visually, it seemed the shorter arms did increase the throw when turning the servo, but I didn't really notice too much increase in steering during driving...although I am using different tires now? There was no need to dremel. You may use the whole losi kit and mount it with no problems.

[Racin Rev]

On the topic of putting tires in the oven. I tried it with my hpi polycarbonite wheels. What a disaster! the wheels distorted badly. fortunately most wheels are not polycarbonite and should work (boiling is said to work also, but also not for polycarbonite.). As for burning the plastic, that won't happen. The melting point for many plastics is about 425 f. that is when the plastic is in a molten state. for that reason kat I would not do it quite like that because of the differing rates of cooling of ovens (I take your word that it works for you but would stop short of suggesting it for others). I would be more inclined to go no higher than 225-250f, though boiling combigns two elements that degrades CA, water and heat also it puts the heat on the surface in a more consistant and immediate way.

[Crazy Canuck]

Hmmm
Bad news. The Losi parts werent in stock, and I didnt do the Dremel work because when I tough about it, I figured it woudl just make the chassis too weak and there wouldnt be much benefit.

[xxxkat]

I have heard that it wont work with rims from duratrax.I have never had any problems taking tires off my rims this way.I just know that nothing is fool proof,what works for you might not work for me.And at the temp Im talking about nothing is really going to get to messed up anyway,the rims were junk anyway.As far as suggesting to others,I HAVE NEVER HAD A PROBLEM,all types of rims,why not sugest,I forgot we dont do that here do we.The bottom line is if you dont think it will work,THEN DONT DO IT.

[Scrad]

Does going smaller on the spur, like a 68 give more acceleration ? Or do I need to add teeth to the spur for more acceleration? I can't remember who dremeled out the motor slot, but whoever did that how much cooler did your motor run after that?

[jkerr0043]

Go larger on the spur or smaller on the pinion to get quicker acceleration. It gives you a "shorter" gear ratio meaning when you divide the spur by the pinion, the number is larger. The larger the number in the ratio, the quicker acceleration. I know that sounds backwards but I've always heard a larger ratio refered to as a "shorter" gear and a smaller ratio as a "taller" gear. Mostly in full size race cars though.

[ole]

Originally posted by ole
XXX-S PARTS on TC3


hey guys! whats that i saw on rc car action nov 2002. baker used xxxs steering blocks on his tc3. does the c-hubs fit also? do you need to dremel or modify parts to fit? how about the performance of the tc3 when i use these xxxs parts?

[Racin Rev]

Originally posted by xxxkat
I have heard that it wont work with rims from duratrax.I have never had any problems taking tires off my rims this way.I just know that nothing is fool proof,what works for you might not work for me.And at the temp Im talking about nothing is really going to get to messed up anyway,the rims were junk anyway.As far as suggesting to others,I HAVE NEVER HAD A PROBLEM,all types of rims,why not sugest,I forgot we dont do that here do we.The bottom line is if you dont think it will work,THEN DONT DO IT.

Read the post again, it WAS a suggestion. Also, no one denied that it worked for you. But if one wants to preserve the wheels one might not want to go that hot. I agree that nothing will burn or catch fire, that is what the comment about the melting point of plastics was about. I was agreeing.

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by Scrad
Does going smaller on the spur, like a 68 give more acceleration ? Or do I need to add teeth to the spur for more acceleration? I can't remember who dremeled out the motor slot, but whoever did that how much cooler did your motor run after that?

It was me who dremeled out the notor mount. It seems to help a bit. It might not though, I havent compared with a temp gun. It just seems a bit cooler, not much, though.

I basically drilled out about 5mm on either side, so its fairly close to the ribs on either side of the motor. Leave a bit of material there to maintain rigidity. I then roughly rounned off the edges all the way around the hole. Use an exacto knife, and scrape around to make every thing smoothly curved.

You can see a picture back on page 19 or so, it wont let me post it again.

[Scrad]

Thanks for the info. I might try cutting out the motor slot here in a month or two and test it with my temp gun to see if it really does help or not.

[xxxkat]

Well all I have to say is the TC-3 F ING ROCKS!!!! Just got back from the races,I took my team TC-3 and my xxxs today,ran them both same class.both cars are set up about the same(the xxxs has better radio eqp.)and I went 2 laps faster with the tc-3.(expert stock)aw maybe its just me.

[Grizzbob]

Well, both are great cars, though it could simply be the TC3 just suits you better. That's why I made the switch myself, I had Yokomo MR4-TC's before, & godd as they were I was just more comfortable with my TC3's.....:)

[xxxkat]

I think your right on that one,the tc-3 felt more planted,one of the differences that I did not think about was the bodies,Im running a proto form chrysler 300m on the tc-3 and on the xxxs a dodge stratus,do you think a different body would make a difference?The track is very tight with a small straight(80ft).Has anyone run the IRS chassis for the tc-3?

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by xxxkat
Has anyone run the IRS chassis for the tc-3?

From what Ive seen, they have a lot of flex. Thats good if you like that, its a preference thing, and it depends on the surface, too.

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by Grizzbob
Well, both are great cars, though it could simply be the TC3 just suits you better. That's why I made the switch myself, I had Yokomo MR4-TC's before, & godd as they were I was just more comfortable with my TC3's.....:)

You mean the Brokomo? How did you keep it in one piece?

The TC3 is great, its just too easy to drive, and that makes it a bit hard to set up, it always feels pretty dialed.

[Grizzbob]

I had to drive better, CC, but I managed...:D However, I got very tired of rebuilding the Yok's diffs so often & having to go through so much trouble just to get to them(I was probably rebuilding my diffs a minimum of once per month in stock, maybe every other week in mod). My TC3's, on the other hand, can go several months between rebuilds before they even hint at feeling rough...:)

[roberttatefan]

I'm driving a so called "Brokomo" hmmm.... seem to me i just won OctoberFast with it... and by the way... if you rebuild your diffs once a month you are doing somthing wrong, my diff has been like butter for over 2 months..... I'm not bad mouthing the TC3 by any means, its just that the Yokomo is a solid car, that on the race track is just as fast, but in the pits I can see your point. I am thinking about getting rid of the OctoberFast winning MR4-tc, so email me with q's, the email is roberttatefan@hotmail.com also, I am open for a trade for a Factory Team TC3, enjoy your post!:D

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by Grizzbob
I had to drive better, CC, but I managed...:D However, I got very tired of rebuilding the Yok's diffs so often & having to go through so much trouble just to get to them(I was probably rebuilding my diffs a minimum of once per month in stock, maybe every other week in mod). My TC3's, on the other hand, can go several months between rebuilds before they even hint at feeling rough...:)

The plastic diffs seem really touchy in mod. I had to check them and re tighten them every run after I melted one. I think they just needed a rebuild.

[PCC]

Originally posted by Crazy Canuck
From what Ive seen, they have a lot of flex. Thats good if you like that, its a preference thing, and it depends on the surface, too.

I bought my TC3 used and it came with the IRS chassis. I've since replaced it with the FT chassis kit and one of the things I did when got the new chassis was to compare flex. The IRS is more flexible than the FT chassis but you're talking about millimeters. The FT chassis will flex about 1mm laterally and a half millimeter in torsion (twist). The IRS will flex about 2mm laterally and about 1mm in torsion.

[Crazy Canuck]

Just out of curiosity, do you know how much the Pro 3 has? I know it was really flexible, but I dont know any hard numbers on it.

[jkerr0043]

You're not thinking of defecting are you?:eek:

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

If he does, we will all ram him with our TC3's, hile I sneak in, and take his TC3 from him. Then, while he is sleeping, we cover him in shock fluid, cover his hands in diff lube, and tickle him with a feather, so he smacks himself in the face. Not to mention, we torch his "Pro" 3...lol

-A. Swift

[Crazy Canuck]

Im was just saying that as a comparison of flex. I would never buy a Pro 3, if they cant even get their factory drivers to drive something that resembles it, it must be no good. Have you seen that "Pro 3" that Hara drives? I would bet that less than 5% is stock parts.

[jkerr0043]

I think Hara was test driving an HPI shaft drive when he raced the Hitec Parking lot Challenge down here a few months ago. None of us could really get a good look at it. I was pitted a couple of tables accross from him and he always had a body on it or a towel over it.

[Racin Rev]

I am sure that most of hara's car was stock, stock tc3 that is. :p :D :p

[cedric4]

Diff lube?

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I meant diff grease. Hey, it's a lube now, isnt it? I am lead to believe that it is a lubricant...I was speaking out of anger (and fear that we might lose another one...)

-A. Swift

[cedric4]

What do you use for diff lube, or grease? Is it just for the balls?How often do you change it?

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

I normally check the grinding, by freely spinning the wheels with my hand, and believe me, you'l feel it. I put it on the balls, and the gears...not too much though. Just enough to get a VERY thin coat of grease/lube on the gears...

-A. Swift

[Crazy Canuck]

Yeah, just a bit, too much makes drag. I use some stuff that I got pretty cheap,its green, in a little container.

[thijs]

hi,

I heard that the A- arms break very easy, but witch one break very easy:composite(standard on racer and team), graphite(standard on factory team) or both?:confused:

[xxxkat]

I dont think I would say easy,If you hit something hard enough any car will break an A arm or hubs.I think its more of how you hit.I have a xxxs also and I would have to say the associated is tougher as far as I see it.I have hit the boards and pipes and have had other cars hit my tc-3 very hard and have had no broken parts.My losi is a different story,its rear hubs are prone to break where the hinge pin is.

[ole]

Originally posted by ole
XXX-S PARTS on TC3


hey guys! whats that i saw on rc car action nov 2002. baker used xxxs steering blocks on his tc3. does the c-hubs fit also? do you need to dremel or modify parts to fit? how about the performance of the tc3 when i use these xxxs parts?


any comments guys?

[xxxkat]

If you race on a very tight track I might try them.It is used to give you more steering throw.No mods are needed,Its a so.cal trick(race track in so.cal)The track is very tight.And if you look at baker's tc-3 he is using a rear tower up front and the 2 hole A arms also.I dont know how much of a difference using the losi hubs & blocks with the stock tower & arms would make.But if you feel that your tc-3 needs more low speed steering I would say try it,but if your tc-3 has good low speed steering you dont need to waste the money,What you have to remember is MY car could be dialed for the way I drive,but YOU could drive MY car and think I had the worst set up you have ever driven.What works for the pros may not work for you or me.

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by thijs
hi,

I heard that the A- arms break very easy, but witch one break very easy:composite(standard on racer and team), graphite(standard on factory team) or both?:confused:

That was an old problem. The old arms were like toothpicks. They have since fixed the problem and new kits come with thick ones.

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by xxxkat
If you race on a very tight track I might try them.It is used to give you more steering throw.No mods are needed,Its a so.cal trick(race track in so.cal)The track is very tight.And if you look at baker's tc-3 he is using a rear tower up front and the 2 hole A arms also.I dont know how much of a difference using the losi hubs & blocks with the stock tower & arms would make.

The hubs have nothing to do with his screwy shock/arm setup. The Losi hubs have longer stubs coming off the back, so the throw is increased. It has absolutely nothing to do with the new arms and shock tower. THe throw is determined by the blocks, nothing else.

[UrbanCowboy]

So I bought an Orion Comm Stick today to use when cleaning up my motor. Can someone tell me how to use this thing? It's got a square side and a round side. Thanks guys, I've never dealt with motor cleaning/maintenance/rebuilds etc before.

[Crazy Canuck]

The square side is to clean the comm. You basically just scrub the comm through the brush hoods. The round side is for cleaning the brushes, rub it into the curved part of the brush until the brush looks relatively shiny

[xxxkat]

Oh duh...I never said you HAVE to use the arm/tower with the losi hubs,WHAT I posted was this is the set up that Baker has used,Have you used this screwy set up?Or is Barry Baker screwed up?As far as com sticks go they mess up your com,they get your com out of round,But hey go for it.The worst it can do is mess up your motor.

[Scrad]

I just got back from racing tonight. I ended up getting second in the main. Not to bad for my first time out this season and only 5 laps of practice. Now I just need to get rid of my little push and I think I could win.

[jkerr0043]

Scrad:
What class are you racing?

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by xxxkat
Oh duh...I never said you HAVE to use the arm/tower with the losi hubs,WHAT I posted was this is the set up that Baker has used,Have you used this screwy set up?Or is Barry Baker screwed up?As far as com sticks go they mess up your com,they get your com out of round,But hey go for it.The worst it can do is mess up your motor.

But the fact that he used that setup is irrelevant, and only serves to turn someone off trying the losi parts. What you were saying was the equivalent of saying "He was racing a TC3, but remember, he was using an M8". The two ideas are unrelated, having no effect on each other, therefore the comment served no purpose.

[Scrad]

I'm racing in the Pro Mod, because that's what everyone else races in. We don't have a stock class. Just Pro Mod and regular Mod. We only have about 7 cars a night and 4 of us are are equally fast.

Do you move the shock in for more traction on the shock tower?

[xxxkat]

Both items are to related, they both have to do with suspension geometry,TC-3 M 8 ?***?Now that was one of the worst analogys I have seen.Dude if your going to play hate,at least think about it.(front suspension,all the parts I had said baker used,gee they all seem to be conected to each other.)

[thijs]

thanx Crazy Canuc know i'm for sure i'm going to buy the tc3!:D

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by thijs
thanx Crazy Canuc know i'm for sure i'm going to buy the tc3!:D

Good call. You'll really like it.

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by xxxkat
Both items are to related, they both have to do with suspension geometry,TC-3 M 8 ?***?Now that was one of the worst analogys I have seen.Dude if your going to play hate,at least think about it.(front suspension,all the parts I had said baker used,gee they all seem to be conected to each other.)

Ok, forget the first analogy. Lets have a geometry lesson.

If the Losi block has a longer arm on the back of it, it will provide more throw than a block with a shorter arm, such as the TC3 block, assuming the initial toe angles are equal. This will be the same regardless of the angle of the shock, which is what Baker was adjusting with the shock tower, and new arms. The new arms have the same dimensions as the old ones, only with additional holes to screw the shock into to adjust shock travel and leverage. The ride height and compression of the shock is the same regardless of the angle at which the shock is mounted, thus, it has no effect on the net throw of the steering. If you still dont believe me, I can prove it with a diagram.

[xxxkat]

I never said that the arm/tower HAD anything to do with the throw of the steering,I might be dumb but Im not stupid.All I ever said was Baker used the arm/tower with the losi steering blocks.As far as a lesson goes,shock angle does has an effect on the compression of the shock.And longer steering arms also affects the caster & camber at full suspension compresion.And if you dont think so,you did change a suspension link(angle). :cool:

[Crazy Canuck]

The car is 190 mm stock. When he swapped the arms to the new ones, presumably the width was still 190 mm, because any less would decrease corner speed, therefore, the arms must be the same length.

[xxxkat]

You are right, The arms are the same length,the only thing that changes with the arms/tower is your shock geometry,thats why you need to run the 2 hole arms(thats the only difference from "old" to new,1 mounting hole)As for using the losi hubs,It is the same length(as we both had said).They have more of a sweep back angle,so that will also change the toe at full compresion.We are both saying the same thing.All I ever said was Baker has used all 3 (arms/tower/losi hubs).They will have an affect on how a car works in a turn.

[Dingus]

The main reason for the two hole arms is to be able to get the ride height below 5mm.

[xxxkat]

Yes that is right.I also understand that the reason Baker uses this set up is its closer to the tc-3 nitro front end geometry,And he can set up both cars close to the same.

[jkerr0043]

Does any one run a 19 turn spec mod class? I need to know what brushes to use. I ran that class for the first time time today and just fried the 4499 brushes I was running. One run and they were black. I checked around at the track and I got ten different answers. Any ideas?

[JimmyMac]

Are you sure it was not your gearing that fried the brushes?? You could try some Reedy 766 brushes. If you fry them, it must be your gearing. 766 brushes are the same compound as the 729 Quasar Brushes used in Mod motors, except that the 766 are "laydown" brushes.

[jkerr0043]

I don't think it's the gearing because I'm running the same gear as every one else, although when they told me it did seem a little much. I'm running an overall 7.2 ratio. (72/25) But that's what all the guys in my class are running and they're not having any problems. One guy told me he runs 767's on the postive and 766's on the neg side. Any one else try this combo?

[AssociatedRacer]

hey, jkerr0043, did u take off the pinion on the motor and see if anything is binding when u roll it?

[jkerr0043]

Yeah, the motor gets pulled out and cleaned after every run. That's how I know I was burning them up so bad, aside from the slight but noticable power less around the four minute mark. The only other thing I can think of is I started using the Trinity motor break in drops and I never did before. But they get sprayed out after break in so they shouldn't have anything to do with it unless I'm not getting the brushes completely clean and there's still some residue on the brush/comm.

[Crazy Canuck]

What brush springs are you using? The execessive brush wear was probably from springs that are too light

[jkerr0043]

Trinity Green on both sides. That's what came on the motor.

[Scrad]

Try running red or purple springs. I don't run Trinity motors so I can't really help you other than that.

[aeb3man_44]

hey, could anybody suggest mounted foams i should get for my tc3?

[Dingus]

Don't know what your surface is, but I always ran TRC Plaid in front and Purple in the rear for Ozite. For a little more steering, try purples all the way around. Also, use the 28mm size. No sense in using the 24mm's.

I do run in a 19t class fairly often. Actually, I use the Chameleon for Mod class also with pretty good results. I haven't had the problem with brushes and I have used a few different ones. I currently have the Putnam brushes in now, but they are a little tough on the comm. For offroad I have liked the Reedy Sonic's. They don't last as long, but are not too hard on the comm.

A few guys have switched to the Reedy based Matrix 19t available from Speedtech. I haven't yet, but they are only like $33. Cheaper than the Trinity.

[ole]

what gearing should i use for a 19turn motor?

[Dingus]

I gear the 19t just about the same as a stock motor. Maybe one or two teeth down at most.

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by aeb3man_44
hey, could anybody suggest mounted foams i should get for my tc3?

Speedmind. They make a variety of compounds, from 35 to 45. Try 42 in the front and 40 in the rear. If you want abit more grip, go for 40/37 or even 37/35

[Crazy Canuck]

Originally posted by jkerr0043
Trinity Green on both sides. That's what came on the motor.

Try Purple on + and Red on -, or if you cant find that, red/red.

The green springs are quite light

[TC3_racer_14]

yo, this is my first post and i am new to carpet racing, i need some foam tires and im not sure how to maintane them, do i need a tire truer or what, id appreciate some help thanks.

[jkerr0043]

I'm not very familiar with foam but i think if you want them to last and handle properly, you need to true them.

[XXX/TC3 Racer]

If you need a place to buy them..go here! This is were I found my cross 15-sppoke wheels. You can also buy them premounted, and in many different tire compounds. Yes, I am also talking about foams...

www.kthobbies.com

-A. Swift

[Crazy Canuck]

With foams, there are a few things you have to do. Make sure to stay off the wall as much as possible, otherwise the foams can chunk.

You dont need a truer. After you run them a couple of times, look at them and see if they're coned (more wear on the inside or outside). Adjust camber to achieve even tire wear. Dont worry if you have more on the right or left, just so long as the wear is even.

With foam, just remember to check diameter every run, foams lose diameter as you run them, and this will change your rollout. (gearing)

[TC3_racer_14]

alright thanks

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Do you guys think 72/30 gearing with 48 Pitch giving me a 6:1 gear ratio is too aggressive for stock? How likely will I overheat something?

Right now, I'm running 72/28, 6.43:1 and it is getting a bit warm after 5 min of run.

Thanks.

[Crazy Canuck]

Thats quite a high ratio. I use 26/72. Depending on the size of your track, though, it might be the way to go.

Are you using foam or rubber tires? Whats the diameter? If you know that, its very easy to get a good ratio.

[jkerr0043]

If you're using rubber tires, a 30 pinion is probably going to burn up most stock motors, plus you won't have much power coming out of the corners. Maybe if you were running oval but not on a road course. There's too much of an RPM range on road. The most I run is a 28 pinion and that's only on large tracks with sweeping corners. You'll find the car is actually slower if you're over geared because it will never reach max RPM before you have to slow down for a turn and therefore never reach max speed. Plus excess heat can slow down a motor badly.

[RCBuddha]

Hey all,

After a few months of racing Micro, I'm going to be making my return back to touring with my TC3. After looking over the threads, i'm interested in trying barry baker's setup. My question is: how did he make his front diff "blocked" or "open"? Also, does putting the rear shock tower on the front bulkhead really make a difference in handling?

Buddha

[AudiTT-Quattro]

Originally posted by Crazy Canuck
Thats quite a high ratio. I use 26/72. Depending on the size of your track, though, it might be the way to go.

Are you using foam or rubber tires? Whats the diameter? If you know that, its very easy to get a good ratio.

I usually bash with the stock foam tires that come with the TC3. I probably WON'T be using 72/30 for racing, but my friends want me to drag race them down 2 blocks and I thought the top speed will make up for the decreased acceleration.

What do you think? I'm still chicken to put in the 30T pinion.

Thanks.

[xxxkat]

I think what you refer to on bakers car is a one way diff.On the front tower (using the rear tower)I am using this set up right now,I LIKE the way it works(notice I said I)I have read on this post that alot of people DONT like this set up.I set my car up just like Bakers set up sheet.I think it makes my car more stable going in to a turn,High speed or low.I looked at it like this,If I did not like the way it works on my car its very easy to change it back and you now have a spare rear shock tower and some front arms.(if you run the rear tower up front you have to run the new two hole front arms)

[Dingus]

At the Reedy Race Baker ran a locked diff, not a one way.

The locked diff causes push in any car, so to compensate you need to put the rear tower on the front and soften up the spring and oil. The new arms are to allow the ride height below 6mm and to allow the shock angles to be the same as the rear.

I am running a similar setup (except with 3.5mm of droop all around) on a bumpy asphault and I like it a lot. Little push on turn in, but super fast mid and exit. If you get in trouble (sideways) just punch it and you're straight again.

Baker also used the losi front blocks with this setup to gain more steering because the Tamiya ha