View Full Version : Associated TC3 Forum v1.0
gacjr0
04-18-2001, 07:41 PM
OK the "where are all the..." wasn't cutting it. How about a "TC3 forum" to post to?
I noticed that changeing the rear blocks (toe-in/squat) really messes with your ride height and droop settings. Be sure to check them when you change things around! I mean if you haven't already. I just noticed when I bought the optional blocks and started chaging squat, and the car went to crap. I was wondering why until I saw how whacky the rear ride height and droop were. All better now!
digex
04-18-2001, 10:34 PM
I'm ordering the Hudy gauges as soon as I can find them in stock. Hopefully that'll let me know what's going on with things.
rc51racerx
04-19-2001, 11:14 AM
I set my ride height and went with the stock setup, and cant get the car to bite into the carpet for anything. my brand new skyline body was viciously abused on its first time out. I have a big problem with the car pushing out and then sliding sideways into the piping. any ideas on a great setup for carpet racing? its a tight track, but you have to be fast to win the stock class. thanks
-John
gacjr0
04-19-2001, 02:36 PM
What tires are you using?
Are you using the manuals carpet setup?
Stiffer springs are good for tight/high bite carpet. I ended up with purple front 70 wt oil and copper rears with 60 wt oil.
Grizzbob
04-19-2001, 07:33 PM
Yeah, the tires are a HUGE part of your car's handling. If you're using the tires that come with the TC3, then I'd say that's your problem right there(they may be ok on asphalt, but they really aren't a serious racing tire). If you haven't already, I'd try some Sorex 28's in front & 24's in the rear, that should give you the traction you need...... :)
gacjr0
04-20-2001, 07:39 PM
mmmm Hardcore Titanium chassisis coming soon
I want the all Ti car:
Ti turnbuckles,hinge pins, ball ends, screws,chassis, motor, shaft. It would be a sight to see... :D
digex
04-22-2001, 09:23 AM
Those stock tires aren't even good on asphalt. The rubber seems to carmelize or something and it gets hard. It's like running around on a pair of rims with no rubber at all after a while. I've had good luck with HPI's slicks and also with foams. Also, a friend of mine who races all over the country said to try shimming the wheels out just a tiny bit and he says it will help immeasurably. I've never tried it, but you guys with setup issues might want to see if it works on your track. :cool:
Sprite@
04-22-2001, 06:57 PM
What do you all suggest for outdoor parking lot racing? I'm running Jaco/Proline medium compound capped tires and stock setup with no swaybars. My car is really lose in the rear and I can't lay the power down like the others. Also it doesn't seem to help much moving the battery front/rear, and i'm running 2000's with a P2K. Thanks a lot.
hslillie
04-23-2001, 07:59 PM
TC3 Ti with Reedy Ti purchased with the Visa Ti? :p
hslillie
04-24-2001, 03:02 PM
Has anyone used foam tires on asphalt with their TC3? I was thinking about using them but I am unsure which ones to start with. Just curious if it would work in the T/C class as well as it does on the pan cars and 12th scales? :confused:
Was just told that it is not ROAR legal to use foams in T/C - so never mind
:rolleyes:
[ 04-24-2001: Message edited by: Ketchup ]
Sprite@
04-24-2001, 03:07 PM
Thanks for the info ketchup. First I'm going to try moving the shocks inward, and then I'll shorten the wheelbase using the spacers behind the hubs. Lastly I'll try a swaybar and some different springs.
hslillie
04-24-2001, 03:54 PM
Sprite@ - let us know how it works for you and what changes helped
Yinco the Butcher
04-24-2001, 11:26 PM
does anyone know when the nitro version is coming out??? i'm restless 4 a nitro tc and i'm not sure i can wait any longer. the only cars i've ever owned are AE and i'd like to keep it that way. Thanks everyone. :confused:
Grizzbob
04-25-2001, 12:00 AM
It's impossible to say, because AE is doing it the way they should, making sure the car is completely ready to rock before they ship it. I know it can be frustrating, but I'd rather they take their time & get it right than get it now & have to deal with bugs & flaws for some time..... :)
KerryG
04-25-2001, 12:01 AM
Associated is currently testing the Nitro TC3 right now. We posted some information about it today on our site.
[ 07-05-2001: Message edited by: Administrator ]
hslillie
04-25-2001, 12:54 AM
Sprite - possibly try a sway bar on the front or lighter springs on the rear shocks and check with the drivers that seem hooked up as to what tires they are using.
glitch44
04-25-2001, 02:30 AM
Yinco,
Chris Lett was @ Crystal Park in SoCal testing the prototype today. He was testing a YokeGT4 for comparison. Both cars were HOOKED! No info on the release date. Rumor is 2-3 months. I'm very interested to see if the production car has any changes from the prototype. I'll keep you posted on any sightings.
Later
Sprite@
04-25-2001, 04:10 PM
I put the rear shocks in the inner-most holes and this seemed to help. I can now lay more power down when coming out of turns, it still is a bit loose but it is manageable. What should I do next? Add a swaybar? I only got to test it on the street, but I have another race next sunday so we can see how things go. Thanks for the help
[ 04-25-2001: Message edited by: Sprite@ ]
gacjr0
04-30-2001, 06:15 PM
ttt
hslillie
05-03-2001, 10:19 AM
Need to get the TC3 dialed for the race this weekend - first race weekend in something like two months and the first on asphalt, should be interesting :D
gacjr0
05-03-2001, 01:41 PM
I had a dream about boiling off some old tires so I could put new ones on. Should I? :rolleyes:
hslillie
05-03-2001, 02:04 PM
For a real fix boil them in acetone :D
Sorry too much caffine just having some fun - but whatever you do, do not use CA debonder that is way too easy....
gacjr0
05-03-2001, 05:47 PM
hahahahah
Boil in acetone!
funny
Too much to do before Saturday ahhhh!
doublet
05-03-2001, 06:18 PM
Hey can someone tell me what a good unprepared asphault setup would be? The asphault stays fairly cool temp. and Derek B. told me since foams are legal here to use double purple 28mm foams up front and purple in rear.
Yinco the Butcher
05-03-2001, 07:43 PM
I heard from my local hobby store that AE took their prototype to some convention to get some feedback and they are supposedly going w/ pillow ball suspension (i.e. mugen)
sprite, have you tried yokomo's sprint slicks?? I use their tires and inserts (soft/soft)and paragon sauce the tires hook up and their a decent price too! ;)
Sprite@
05-08-2001, 03:30 PM
Yinco - I use the Sprint Firm/Medium Inserts on my TA03 and they work great, great price too. The fact is the nuts on the TC3 wont fit inbetween the wheel wells, so I ordered some 138G's/medium insert with the new 6-spoke wheels. I also ordered some Trinity tc3 nuts and people say they fit so I'll see if it works. :eek: Thanks for the help.
gacjr0
05-09-2001, 12:56 AM
Drescher won the Reedy UK with his TC3 this weekend.
Yinco the Butcher
05-09-2001, 07:47 PM
Sprite, back when RCCA ran their first test of the TC3 they talked about the 8-32 wheel nuts limiting selection so they used 4mm nylon nuts (not the metal w/ nylon locking inserts) that are basically self-threading. Have you or anyone used the molded diffs from AE. How about IRS-Irrgang alum input shafts, I'm looking to shave weight but i'm worried about the breakage factor, thanks!!!
Who knows what evil lurks in the hearts of men? :mad:
gacjr0
05-10-2001, 11:03 AM
The molded diffs are great and you'll shave lots of weight. They are fairly durable, I bought them for few ruble. Stock shafts are small, IRS won't shave much weight at all.
Sprite@
05-10-2001, 03:09 PM
If the factory team TC3 comes with them, then yes I have them and they are holding up.
gacjr0
05-11-2001, 07:11 PM
All three come with them.
TC3 Rocks.
XtremLosi
05-16-2001, 09:55 PM
Alright guys what happened to this thread?? it just died!?
RCRacer6
05-17-2001, 11:30 AM
Hey does anyone on here have any setups for an asphalt track with a sealer on it. We are running stock and using foam tires. So far I have tried plaids front and pink rear. Here is the rest:
Fr 50 wt and coppers
RR 40 wt and reds
Front sway bar
Shaft one-way
Battery to the front
stock camber locations and shock mounting
Short wheelbase
Car was not bad with this setup although I thought I had to wait a little bit to get into a corner and could nail it coming onto the straightaway and not get loose.
Front and rears durometer about the same.
Thanks for any input Craig :)
Yinco the Butcher
05-18-2001, 12:18 AM
Say, how do you guys cycle your batteries???
I'm going racing soon and my only problem is that my packs start dumping right around 5 minutes. I'm buying new packs (2400s) and I use a novak digipeak plus with 10 bulb/ cutoff unit for discharge
Thanks Y'all ;)
say, has anyone heard anything new on the NTC3??? I've E-mailed AE but there's been no response.
[ 05-18-2001: Message edited by: Yinco the Butcher ]
Aussie_Man
05-18-2001, 04:38 AM
Whats is this NTC3? I just bought a TC3 Team kit and had my first onroad race. Qualifie 6 and finished 4th. Came 2nd in last final which was cool but had a DNF because of a wheel nut come of in second main.
asociatedman14
05-18-2001, 04:46 PM
rcracer6, i'm guessing you put suntan lotion on the tires right. well if none of yopu guys do it's the bigest help you can get for traction, those old stock tc3 wheels work almost as good as $$ exspensive tires.
all you do is rub suntan lotion into the wheel and wipe off. it's that simple
Drew :D :)
RCRacer6
05-18-2001, 09:57 PM
Drew, thanks for the advice. We have been using red dot and it has been working very well.
I am going to try moving my shocks to the middle hole on the shock towers.
Craig
XtremLosi
05-18-2001, 11:26 PM
By NTC3 he meant the nitro version of the TC3 that AE is working on. Can't wait to see it but I probably wont be buying one. I like electric too much.
James R.
05-28-2001, 11:56 PM
Post anything about the TC3 HERE!!!
:D :cool: :) ;) :eek:
Hawkeye
05-31-2001, 01:50 PM
It's pritty quick.
TC3Racer316
05-31-2001, 05:09 PM
I have a Green Machine 3 Pro in my TC3. I have the stock 72-tooth pinion. What pinion should I use? I was thinking a 27 tooth. It is a fairly large asphalt track.
Aussie_Man
06-01-2001, 06:11 AM
I run on a large track with a Chrome Stock and use a 30/69 pinion/spur. Plus I know poeple who use 13t motors with a 26 pinion, you be a fair bit undergeared. See what happens :cool:
twism86
06-02-2001, 10:37 PM
hey, i just got the racer kit and a BB busted, it was too tight on the rear diff and i tried to move it becuase it was in the wrong spot and it exploded, were can i get a single BB to replace it, also what motor,esc would you recomend, thanx
-twism
TC3Racer316
06-03-2001, 10:39 AM
Twism86, I would get a forward-only ESC, probably something racy, like a Cyclone TC2.
As for a motor, I would start out with a high-performance stock motor such as a P2K. Then work up to a hot modified motor. I run a Fusion in my TC3 and a P2K or Green Machine 3(depending on track).
Yinco the Butcher
06-05-2001, 02:15 AM
spy shots are up for the nitro TC3 on AE website
asociatedman14
06-12-2001, 09:57 AM
at my track we use 72-25 pinion and spur combo with the rage,gm3,mvp to look at the track go to www.speedlinehobbies.com. (http://www.speedlinehobbies.com.) if your looks like it is alot wider i would a maybe go with a 26 becuase u want these things to revv out or they wont perform good. if a 26 is not enough top end go with the 27 but be sure to check the motor often.
i hope i answered your question
Drew
TC3Racer
06-13-2001, 01:27 PM
In my TC3 i run a P2K pro stock motor. I have a 25 tooth pinion and a 68 tooth spur. am i under/over-geared at all? it doesnt seem like it. i like to get speed through the corners and a good exit speed. thats why i chose this gear set-up.
BTW.. here are some facts on the bodies for the TC3.
Chrysler 300m = Very aerodynamic highest top speed.
Dodge Stratus = Better for handling and turning, good speed through the corners.
Honda Accord = Good top speed and good for handling but not as good handling as the stratus and not as fast as the 300m. Has better handling than the 300m and higher top speed than the stratus.
Just some facts i thought that us TC3 racers could use.
Hawkeye
06-13-2001, 02:02 PM
I have a P2K Pro and use a 30t pinion with the standard spur. My p2K was dyno'd at 31,7?? rpm so it can handel anything.
tsracing
06-23-2001, 02:30 AM
igo thte team tc3 i upgrded it with a graphite chassi and blu screw kit and blue rear brces. i have a cyclone tc in it with the reedy mvp motor and a team orin 2400 max vds batts. but i cant run it cuzz i need cvds and axels. if andy one hs extras email me at asaca224@yahoo.com
Roush
07-02-2001, 10:18 PM
Well we have tried something different with our tc3's. We put the rally kit on then mounted the parma dirt oval body and some have narrowed up other dirt oval bodies to run them on dirt. We run open mod motors with a cap on 6cells. If you ever want to try something very fun try this class.
HauntedMyst
07-03-2001, 09:56 AM
Its probably an old arguement, but since I sold my Pro 2 and haven't been in TC's for a few months, please give me your Pro and Con's please. While it's nice to hear from everyone, I am really only interested in hearing from people ONLY IF YOU HAVE OWNED/RACED BOTH CARS My track went from being a Pro 2 haven to a TC3 track over the winter. Support is good for both.
Thanks all!
bond2000
07-05-2001, 08:15 PM
Hey i have a Team TC3 with: all but 8 screws are aluminum, RRP blue lightend out drives, novak xxl am reciver,special team novak black cyclone,a fantom stock motor,and 2000 mached bats and was wondering what a good short track seting wold be for pinnion/spur and suspension?
Thanks MR.Bond
[ 07-05-2001: Message edited by: bond2000 ]
[ 07-05-2001: Message edited by: bond2000 ]
RcMania24
08-02-2001, 03:05 AM
I just got a TC3 it is a great car. I have the racer kit version but will soon upgrade parts as i see needed since all i do is run it in my parking lot since theres no tracks around where i live. I do have a few ? for you. What kind of shock oil and springs would you recommend for a bumpy type parkinglot with a few smooth straits.? Also what kind of tires other than the stock ones do you use.? Also what kind of servo do you recommend.?
Thanks :eek:
[ 08-02-2001: Message edited by: RcMania24 ]
maxxxracer
08-03-2001, 11:44 PM
do u guys know if the racer kit comes with a pinion and spur gear?
Grizzbob
08-04-2001, 03:45 PM
Yes, I'm pretty sure the Racer kit comes with a spur & pinion(though I don't remember how many teeth they have, I always change them out for 64 pitch gears myself).... :)
maxxxracer
08-04-2001, 06:28 PM
oh ok. why do u change to 64pitch. they just break easier. Well i guess u do get more fine tuning options.
RcMania24
08-04-2001, 11:37 PM
The racer kit comes with a spur gear only its a 72tooth.also you may have some good gear options for 64 pitch but there a finer tooth.And may get striped easier.On ceartian conditions.
maxxxracer
08-04-2001, 11:47 PM
well, ok. I am getting a tc3 from a guy i know and he swithced over to 64 teeth too. I am wondering how many tooth pinion gear i need to get. I will tell u what spur I have in a day or 2 when i find out.
Grizzbob
08-05-2001, 01:51 AM
Yes, 64 pitch gears are more prone to stripping, but they can still work fine if you're very careful setting the gear mesh(I've been using them for many years, so I've gotten very comfortable with them), & I do love having very fine control over the ratio, it's much easier to find just the right one(which is critical with some of today's stock motors). However, I would not use them on any dirty surfaces, only well prepared ones, like carpet or cared-for asphalt.... :)
RcMania24
08-05-2001, 11:39 PM
Ya i run my TC3 in a parkinglot which has alot of pebbles and stuff thats why i mentioned to becareful about the gears. Im running a p2k pro with a 48 pitch 70 tooth spur and 25 tooth pinion which gives me a 7.00 gear ratio its good for the place i run.
maxxxracer
08-06-2001, 12:08 AM
I am buying a tc3 and the guy I am buying it from converted to 64 pitch gears. He's not including any pinions so I got some ones from robinson racing. I got 24, 27, 30, 34, and 38. I also got a p2k pro and F1 reversing esc from lrp. It fits my budget quite well.
RcMania24
08-07-2001, 04:10 AM
I run my car in a parkinglot which seems to have little pebbles and they get stuck in my steering rack and make it get stuck its getting very annoying plus i dont want to mess it up so i noticed they made a steering rack cover and i was wondering does anyone else use it and does it really help.
Thanks
maxxxracer
08-08-2001, 03:04 PM
I just ordered my tc3 from tower hobbies. Do u guys have any building tips or things I should know before building it?
Grizzbob
08-08-2001, 08:15 PM
Not really, Associated does an excellent job of telling & showing you how to assemble everything, just read the instructions thouroughly before you start to build it. Also, if you want to make the gears run smoother, go over them with an Exacto blade to make sure any flashing is gone, & try putting a couple of drops of teflon impregnated oil(there's one called White Lightning, available at bicycle shops) on the gears instead of grease, the teflon will stay on the gear teeth & help them run very smoothly & quietly..... :)
maxxxracer
08-08-2001, 08:56 PM
thanks for the advice.
Can someone help me? Whenever I rebuild my tc3's threaded shocks I get all the bubbles out but when I screw the cap on and pump the shock shaft I can feel more bubbles develop. Someone help me i want my shocks smooth!
Crazy Canuck
08-14-2001, 10:42 AM
I have a TC3, and I find the ball cups keep falling off. What should I do? Ive heard good things about the RPM ball cups, has anyone tried these?
maxxxracer
08-14-2001, 02:14 PM
Crazy, your ball cups are worn out. After a while the stretch from being taken off an on. RPM ballcups are the best, the blue ones look real trick.
Crazy Canuck
08-15-2001, 08:05 AM
OK, thanks. Ill have to pick up some RPMs then. Thanks
HauntedMyst
08-15-2001, 11:34 AM
I need a good set up for a TC3 on a short twisty track. So far it's box stock and works pretty well. I have the right tires for the track.
maxxxracer
08-15-2001, 01:53 PM
myst, from what i hear u only need slight modification from the stock setup to get a IFMAR champion setup. One of the guys I was talking to got a setup from adam drake i think and thats what he said. When I go to the track I will ask around. My local racers are AE team drivers so I'll ask them.
marvi
08-22-2001, 10:52 AM
i broke my brp nerf wings. is there any other brand for the tc3? also, is there a way to reinforce the nerf wings so theyll be stronger?
maxxxracer
08-22-2001, 04:19 PM
I've got a question, what is the purpose of nerf wings on a touring car. usualy they are to pick up the car and they stick outside the body. they dont do any of that on a tc.
marvi
08-22-2001, 10:24 PM
nerf wings protect the rear suspension arms, just as a wide front bumper protects the front arms. in offset crashes, the nerf wings get the hits, instead of the arms. in the case of the tc3, the nerf wings dont really stick out of the body.
rims'
08-23-2001, 03:32 AM
hey guys i plan on getting a rtr tc3 sometime before christmas. i will run on a flat parkinglot with no obstacles what cheap hop ups do you reccomend?
maxxxracer
08-23-2001, 04:00 AM
get a motor heatsink and a good stock motor. that comes out to be like 35 bucks. a stock motor will give u more power and still have good run times.
rims'
08-23-2001, 04:15 AM
well i have a p2k motor now will that work for a tc3? that is work good and be fast??
[ 08-23-2001: Message edited by: warhawk51 ]
maxxxracer
08-23-2001, 05:53 AM
yeah thats a good motor. use that one.
rims'
08-23-2001, 05:56 AM
cool thanx man
maxxxracer
08-23-2001, 11:13 AM
no prob. glad i could help. If ur looking for expensive hobbies, I would suggest a Novak Cyclone TC2 or LRP Quantom Pro (found a place where it is 150), and some realy good 2400 or 3000 cells. but that stuff is realy expensive.
tc3mike
08-24-2001, 04:24 PM
Have you seen the Nitro tc3? Lookin' pretty sweet!
check out the upper a-arm mounts, that's something trick.
My local track features a tc3 class (a.k.a. stock);
Hacking (a.k.a. nitro);
and deserted (a.k.a. oval)
The nitro tc3 will take over the nitro class and when a tc3 inspired pan car is released victory will be ours!!! HA HA HA HA HA!!! :o :cool:
Man that thing looks sweet. I wish they'd publish a release date. Even a month would be good.
maxxxracer
08-24-2001, 06:19 PM
ya it looks realy cool. Ive seen a bunch of pics of it. I dont know how the gas tank on the side will work though.
tc3mike
08-25-2001, 09:47 AM
Itt'l be fine . I don't think it will be too far, but where else could it be put?
maxxxracer
08-25-2001, 02:27 PM
I was thinking of puting it oever the drivesaft. U could make the tank realy low and a little wider. the only problem would be that u would have to have 2 fuel outlets cause of the hump in the middle. I have a fix. have the tank have a hole molded into it and slide the driveshaft through the hole. It would be a little bit of a pain but if ur a parinoid racer it would be nice. The real question do u see any race cars with fuel tanks off to the side. NO!
tc3mike
08-25-2001, 03:35 PM
it would be possible to split the drive shaft in two and kick the center out to the side with a universal joint. This would make more room for the tank
atm92484
08-25-2001, 05:36 PM
AE has been testing the Nitro TC3 for almost a year. I think they have done more than their share of the homework. If there was a problem with the tank posistion it would have arisen by now.
I can't wait for this racing season to start at this track I just found. They run indoor carpet all winter. I'm almost set on getting a FT TC3 to run. Its going to be a blast.
tc3mike
08-26-2001, 08:51 PM
Don't take chances, use BRP's side nerf wings and front bumper, you'll need 'em
maxxxracer
08-27-2001, 02:13 AM
hey atm if u get the ft tc3 chuck the heatsink and motor clamp and get a standard motor clamp and large heatsink. it disipates heat better.
Crazy Canuck
08-27-2001, 08:56 AM
My brother was driving at the track, and he touched the wall, and the front shock tower snapped in half. Has that happened to anyone else? BTW, it was a plastic piece
chizzler
08-27-2001, 05:10 PM
i have perfectly split the front shock in half several times now. all it takes is a hit where the impact is taken by the tires and usually head on. sometimes its an arm or sometimes its the tower....just luck! :D
rcracer_xxxt_futaba
08-28-2001, 03:02 AM
Hey everyone, I got my first touring car. Its the Racer kit. I finished the whole car in around 6 hrs and when It was done I was very pleased with its proformance. I have a Novak C2 (I took it from my losi XXX), a 3PDF that I use in my other 2 cars, a MPV geared 26/72 and a cheap traxxas servo. Now the V-rage tires work really good on asfault but on cement it slips around alot. I was wondering what you would recomend for partly dusty cement. What would be better team losi or AE tires?
Thanks.
Crazy Canuck
08-28-2001, 08:20 AM
I havent had much luck with the Porline slicks, but I got some 26 mm Sedan Hawgs, and they worked really well. Lots of bite, nad they lasted me a good 40-45 hours of running. If you want slicks, use Take offs or Pit shimuzu 27s, they are worth the extra bucks.
chizzler
08-28-2001, 09:09 AM
get some losi tires in the yellow compund
balapan
08-28-2001, 01:05 PM
I, too, use sedan hawg for parking lot racing, my tc3 with orion touring chrome 9X3 is glued to the track with them.
maxxxracer
08-28-2001, 01:32 PM
for dusty cement your not going to get any traction no matter what tires you use. I have not used the road hogs, but looking at the tread of them I would say to use them. Right now I am using v-rage tires on dusty asphalt, and I am all over the place. When I start racing (hopefully soon) I will get some slicks.
Can you guys recomend some slicks and some inserts for a big prepped ashalt track.
Grizzbob
08-28-2001, 08:52 PM
Maxxxracer, I've become quite fond of Sorex tires. They're available in a number of compounds to suit your track's condition(available grip, temperature, etc.). In a lot of heat(say track temps around 130-155 degrees F, which can be in ambient temps around 85-105 F), then try their 32R's, & maybe a pair of 36R's up front. In cooler temps, just go to the next softer compound till you have enough tracton for the surface(they come in 20R, 24R, 28R, 32R, & 36R, lower number means softer compound), & with all of them I like using Yokomo's firm molded inserts(fills out the tire pretty nicely, & seems to be about the right firmness for most situations)..... :)
rcracer_xxxt_futaba
08-29-2001, 01:11 AM
Does anyone have the 200mm conversion kit? I was thinking about getting it but dont if if there's going to be worth it. One of the resoncs I want ti is for the bodies. Does it help the car turn or handle better?
maxxxracer
08-29-2001, 03:42 AM
Gizzbob, thanks for the info. I have heard realy good things about sorex and yok inserts. Who knew, I always thought that pro-line was the way to go.
tc3mike
08-29-2001, 09:48 AM
The cure for dusty cement is to undust the cement
JonBoy
08-29-2001, 10:01 AM
I bought a used tc3 with rally kit. I use it for onroad only still using the road tires. what springs would you sugest? Also It came with a pretty new GM3 motor and its pretty fast. Would a Speed Gems 19T be much faster? I have one but am not up to making the swap yet. If the 19t would not be much different how low would you need to go to make it FLY??? The TC3 with the GM3 is by far my fastest RC car.
tc3mike
08-29-2001, 02:28 PM
Jon
If you are going to use the car on-road, leave the width at 200mm, but keep the rest, shocks, springs as stock as they can be. For a motor, go 12 turns if you are using good batteries, and around 16 turns if they were cheap. Also see whether your esc can accept a faster motor.
Maxx
Yes, those sorex tires are the ones to use at my track too, but the wear out too quick. The expence keeps racers from using them. Losi yellow compound also works good and is very durable
[ 08-29-2001: Message edited by: tc3mike ]
[ 08-29-2001: Message edited by: tc3mike ]
rcracer_xxxt_futaba
08-29-2001, 10:04 PM
Today I toltaly cleand the cement with a leaf blower and it didnt really do anything. I dont want to spend $7 on tire sause. So I think I'll try some Losi intermedite, yellow tires from my dad.
maxxxracer
08-29-2001, 11:05 PM
rcracer. that wont cut it. u need to go over it with a mop to get all the dust off. Use a wet broom. that is alot easier and will pick up alot of dust. Its that fine layer of dust that u cant see but ends up all over the inside of your body that you need to get off.
rcracer_xxxt_futaba
08-30-2001, 02:19 AM
I didnt use a leaf blower, I used a presure washer. It has as much power if not more and it didnt do anything. Tommorow I will go out with a big wet rag and wipe it all.
maxxxracer
08-30-2001, 02:32 PM
After using the rag you should see a differacne. Make shure to wipe your tires clean too.
After you wipe it with the rag, look at the rag and I bet you it will be jet black.
rcracer_xxxt_futaba
08-30-2001, 08:18 PM
I wiped a turn with a rag and water had the tires super clean and had no differnce, so I put some windex down and it bearly helped, it was either the battery bumped a little or it worked. It's not close to DUSTY asfault. I will try some differnt tires then goto some traction compund.
rcracer_xxxt_futaba
08-30-2001, 08:20 PM
Now that the cement will be clean, super clean, would super soft/sticky tires work good?
maxxxracer
08-30-2001, 08:53 PM
well, If you are running on cement you will have to put some rubber donw on the cement to get good traction because the cement is so slick. What I mean by rubber is to run around the are till it has a black coating on it like race tracks do. Or if you dont want to do that, I think you can get some spray stuff that works real well. NHRA uses it all the time after they clean off the track. But I dont know how or where you can get this.
rcracer_xxxt_futaba
09-01-2001, 07:09 PM
I just tryed my TC3 on some asfault and it is HOOKED! I got some tamyia corner markers and made a cool track. I could see wear in the tires after one run.
maxxxracer
09-01-2001, 07:21 PM
lol. I take it you prepped it.
rcracer_xxxt_futaba
09-01-2001, 07:32 PM
No, it wasn't preped at all. Starting to wear down and I just tryed it on some concrete and it was a little better.
maxxxracer
09-01-2001, 11:05 PM
oh. All i have been running on is asphalt right now, but I would think cuase cement is so slick that it would loose traction but i havnt tried it yet. anyway lets get the forum back to the tc3.
Crazy Canuck
09-02-2001, 07:51 AM
Back to the TC3... is the graphite conversion worth it? I saw it at my track yesterday for $90 cdn ($60 US). Is that worth it?
maxxxracer
09-02-2001, 01:05 PM
its lighter and stronger. I dont have it but i have had graphite parts, and they are much lighter. I would have to say they are only worth it if your are racing.
tc3mike
09-02-2001, 09:02 PM
Sure the graphite is good, but I would not replace the stock parts unless you have a broken part that does not need to be replaced in a hurry. Throw all of what I have said if your shop has a special price which will expire soon. But, this is all up to you. $60 american is a great price. :cool:
maxxxracer
09-02-2001, 09:31 PM
personaly if I break one part that can be grapite im getting the graphite kit because it is cheaper to get it all at once.
TeamSinDriver
09-04-2001, 09:52 PM
Any suggestions on how to set up the shocks for a 244' banked oval?
Xenious
09-06-2001, 11:04 PM
Question, am looking at getting a TC3 with the Rally conversion kit. Looking for a good rally body to go with it (either Peugeot 206 or Subaru WRC 2001) is the TC3 pretty good about fitting most other brands bodies? There were some from CEN I liked (I'm not much of a painter, so I was checking out the pre painted bodies available).
thanks
-jim :D
tc3mike
09-13-2001, 04:24 PM
this thread was towards the bottom, now it is at the top at this juncture in time. ;)
Grizzbob,
What's the part # for the Yokomo inserts you're using with the Sorex tires?
Grizzbob
09-15-2001, 01:58 AM
Well, I'm not certain(don't keep the numbers handy), but it might be something like ZS-097F. but again, I'm only guessing, you might look up Yokomo's site for parts lists to verify..... :)
Grizzbob
09-15-2001, 11:58 AM
Oh, I just found it on Yokomo's website, & the part number is: ZR-097F(its ZR rather than ZS)..... :)
balapan
09-16-2001, 12:44 AM
FYI, I won!!
yes, finally I've won stock class. Phewww!! it was a battle! among all 10 racers, there are only 2 TC3 :( 7 xxxs and only 1 hpi.
I use Orion Chrome Stock geared 25/72 and integy 2400 stick pack!
the other TC3 is my brother, you know him by the name RC4Fun in this board, he finished up 7th.
Anyway, the other big news is actually for the first time I use ball bearings in the steering rack, this surprisingly made a huge different! (at least it is for me)the steering is so smooth, the car handling becomes noticeably improves! is anyone use bearings in your steering rack? fyi, I didn't purposefully wanted to use bearings, it just so happen that the stock bushing is somehow stuck ( I assume it was dirt) and my brother just bought this bearings for me to use for the race (thanks bro!)
thought I just wanted to share this good news to all of you.. :D :D :cool:
TC3Racer316
09-16-2001, 01:14 AM
Yeah, I got the steering rack bearings on mine too. I have never won the A-main, but got several A-main 3rds, and B-main victories. BTW, I'm running an old 3000 stick pack and a Hitec Lynx AM radio. I just don't see the benefit in a computer radio.
[ 09-16-2001: Message edited by: TC3Racer316 ]
maxxxracer
09-16-2001, 02:57 AM
for nitro cars, the computer radios are a god sen. it makes your car perform sooo much better. For electric alot of the options dont really have an effect.
Rockstar
09-20-2001, 04:15 PM
I'm gonna get a TC3 racer kit with either the Accord or Mercedes body tomorrow. What upgrades are "must haves" that I should get right away. I'm thinking a heat sink and maybe the bearings for the steering rack.
Crazy Canuck
09-21-2001, 07:12 AM
Get A BRP wide Front Bumper, It saves you from breaking front A Arms all the time.
maxxxracer
09-21-2001, 06:37 PM
the heatsink is a must have.
tc3mike
09-26-2001, 07:49 PM
I already race a highly modified racer kit. I have done pretty well so far. Soon I will be albe to get a new factory team kit at a big discount . This means at about the same price as a racer kit. Should I take advantage of this chance or sit with my current car?
ttweedle
09-26-2001, 09:59 PM
I would go with the upgrade if you have the money. Even if you don't use it as soon as you get it. You will have it. Better to have and not need than need and not have.:cool:
raffaelli
09-28-2001, 08:05 AM
what do you think about upgrading the outdrives?
tc3mike
09-28-2001, 05:12 PM
Try the molded ones. You can buy a complete diff with the molded out drives for less than $20 from tower. I believe this is the best price offered for the diff
tc3mike
09-29-2001, 09:32 AM
If I were you, I would use Associated parts rather than aftermarket companies. When you buy Associated parts, you can be sure that the parts will fit and work properly
raffaelli
09-29-2001, 12:27 PM
Those are the lightweight ones? Don't they wear out?
tc3mike
09-29-2001, 03:25 PM
Oh yeah they are light. That is why they are so good. They will howerver, wear out a little faster than the metal versions. You can use cushions on the cvd crosspins to ease wear. I don't know who sells them (possibly niftech?). They will slow wear, but not stop it completely. You have to ask yourself, Do you want to go fast and win, or save money and go slower.
chizzler
09-29-2001, 03:30 PM
i would say dont worry so much about the outdrives, work on other aspects of the car....the standard outdrives are more than enough :)
Other_cents
09-30-2001, 10:17 PM
I just purchased a used TC3 Factory Team with alot of upgrade parts. It is sorta hooked up right now, but I dont understand why or what changes that could be made to make it better. That car currently is alittle loose in the rear. We run on an simi-prepared asphalt parking lot (they use sugar water to prepare the track).
The rear end also drags alittle on the ground. Should it do that? I am guessing that draging would cause the car to go slower and that the shocks should be adjusted so it does not. Let me know what springs I should use and what tire compound I should use.
raffaelli
09-30-2001, 10:26 PM
Thanks guys. I was think ing that I would get rid of the metal cvds and put the composite ones in. Lighter.
tc3mike
10-01-2001, 03:36 PM
If you are loose and the rear drags, raise the reat ride height. This will help out both.
Other_cents
10-01-2001, 04:00 PM
Does anyone know where I can find a TC3 instruction in PDF so I can work on my car? I got this used one and it did not have a book. This is probably the only way I will figure out what the rear drags are. :rolleyes: :rolleyes: Plus I will need it when I pull the car apart and do cleanup at the end of the season.
I also have special shocks that allow you to adjust the ride hight on the shock with the threaded adjustments. I might just use that to adjust the ride hight.
chizzler
10-01-2001, 04:19 PM
associated doesnt have them????
Other_cents
10-01-2001, 04:21 PM
I could not find them on the Team site. Maybe I am blind, but I really think their site is not user friendly at all (not like the HPI site).
VexVegaz
10-03-2001, 12:16 PM
you can get the tc3 manual in pdf form here (http://www.rc10.com/pdf/manuals/tc3manual_2001.pdf)
hope this helps
and also if anyone know of any rc rally cars sites, please let me know.
-USA Vex
KartMan
10-03-2001, 03:56 PM
Thanks for the manual link. As far as Rally Sites, try www.rcrally.com.
VexVegaz
10-03-2001, 04:29 PM
love the rally site
thanks for sharing.
-V
JonBoy
10-05-2001, 10:29 PM
I recently bought a USED TC3 with the rally kit on it. I have the parts to chande it back if I want but I am looking for a good on road setup. On road but common blacktop not to smooth. I am currently running it with the full rally kit but onroad tires. I dont know alot about setting the car up but I am looking for sugestion on what Rally/Non-Rally parts to leave on or take off the car. What spring or anything would be helpful. Please Email me at Bunnerrabbit@excite.com with any sugestions.
Other_cents
10-07-2001, 11:20 PM
Diff Issue:
I have a TC3 Factory Team that I purchased used. After the season is over I am going to take everything apart and do a full rebuild and clean up of everything (and hopefully the car will not be as noisy). Does anyone know what type of Diff came with the Factory Team? Is it the molded diff or the steel diff?
If it was the steel diff would it be a good idea to purchase the light weight diff instead of just purchasing just a rebuild kit? Would purchasing the gear that runs the drive shaft make the TC3 run any quieter or is that just the way the TC3 always runs?
chizzler
10-07-2001, 11:27 PM
you might want to try and replace the balls and rings in the diffs first, getting entirely new diffs is a little unnessecary unless the outdrives are badly worn(usually from using the steel cvds).
another thing you might want to check out is the spur, if thats a little chewed looking you might want to replace that.
those two are usually the main factors of a noisy tc3 ;)
Other_cents
10-08-2001, 09:55 AM
Ok, I will look at those. The main reason why I was asking is because the diff rebuild for the steel diff is 8.59, but the light weight diff that has everything in the kit is 17.59. It would be cheeper to just purchase the light weight diff if I find out that there is something wrong with the current diff.
It is very possible that I could just purchase the Diff Ring Gear/Drive Pinion Gear set for 6.69 which are the two gears in the diff and then just get the rebuild kit. The only thing left would be the Outdrives, but I don't really think they need to be replaced. The person I purchased this car from was still using the aluminum cvds on all but one tire (that one had a graphite one).
I will probably also purchase a spur while I am at it. One thing I am trying to do is to make the car more quite, but I want to make it more race worthy that it is now. Two of the A-arms wiggle a little, but the other two (one that I replace during the last race) are just fine.
Other questions:
1) Are there titanium hinge pins? Is it a good idea to upgrade (I had a bent one)?
2) Has anyone tried the titanium or laminate chassis made by hardcore racing?
3) Who makes the aluminum parts for the front and rear arm mounts? I have aluminum on the rear, but regular on the front. My screw holes are stripping also.
4) What do most people run for their steering servo? I was thinking about updating mine for a smoother turn (after updating the steering).
chizzler
10-08-2001, 10:40 AM
you dont have to change the gear on the diff, thats really shouldnt need changing.
i think part #3925 is the rebuild kit, it shoud be more than enough.
if you have the team kit you should already have the titanium hinge pins....they are silver
Other_cents
10-08-2001, 10:45 AM
The hing pins listed on the Associated site are steel (silver) pins. I have the factory team, but I bent one of the pins so I am guessing that the pin is not titanium.
After racing season when I take everything apart I will have a chance to see if there is anything wrong with the diff gears. It feels as though one of them is missing a tooth, but I am not really sure. I think the guy I purchased the car from was a serious thrasher.
chizzler
10-08-2001, 03:17 PM
oh ya, you're right, i was thinking titanium turnbuckles....:)
BTW, i would say just stay with the metal ones (the cheapo ones that are black in the racer kit)
reason is, they are $5 for the set, the silver steel are 20. yes, they bend easier, but if youre not crashing alot, you can get four packs of the black hinge pins, which should be more than enough, ive only bent two ever badly..........;)
Other_cents
10-08-2001, 03:44 PM
Well, I guess you can consider me in the crashing alot category. This weekend I cartwheeled my car off the course about 20 feet. That broke an A-arm, bent a hing pin, and broke a body mount screw. After I fixed the car (bent the pin back to normal) I started racing my Main and hit someone near the back right tire and flipped them (hey it put me in first place :D until my batteries died :( ).
I have not taken the car fully apart yet, but I am expecting to see 8 bent hing pins that way I have been driving.
EDIT: BRP makes hard polished steel pin set for $5. They might be alittle tougher than the products that Associated are using. Anyone use them?
T/Losi
10-11-2001, 07:15 PM
Does anyone have the TC3 RTR. If so, how good is it?
chizzler
10-11-2001, 07:41 PM
the tc3 rtr is basically a racer with electronics already installed for having fun. ;)
tc3mike
10-12-2001, 08:10 PM
I bought the BRP pins when I was at my last race. No probs. so far. I was surprised by the low price. If you use the black pins, chuck them in a dremel and use fine sandpaper to remove the coating and cut friction.
chizzler
10-13-2001, 12:36 PM
thats what i do with my black pins too, except with fine sandpaper. just alitlle bit so the pin dulls a bit, then wipe it down with wd40, seems to make it smoother than just putting the new pin in (thats my 50 cents ;))
Crazy Canuck
10-16-2001, 08:24 PM
I prefer the steel pins, its much easier to replace a hinge pin than an A-Arm and Chassis brace everytime I crash.
How often do you bang up a body enough to have to relace it. My brother and I have had the body for about 3 months and are replacing it this week.
Other_cents
10-17-2001, 12:55 PM
During racing the people say to replace the bodies every race or every other race. Some people are lucky to go three races with their bodies. It also depends on the body. It seams like certain bodies crack easier than others. I think the Stratus is the best lasting body since it does not crack as easy as most of the other ones.
I have used my body for two races and I am not planning on replacing it soon. It looks alright and has one crack in it, but nothing has split to where it is unusable. I think I cracked it when I cartwheeled the car off the course. :rolleyes:
jdowvw
10-17-2001, 01:06 PM
I am thinking of getting a TC3 and I was wondering what kind of speed you guys get out of yours?:confused?:confused:
rctazmanmc
10-17-2001, 02:48 PM
If people are replacing bodies after 1 or 2 races then WOW, either they do not know how to drive or the hackers are in their heats. I have not replaced my body on my tc3 yet and have 6 races with this body. Used to run 12th scale and would go a whole season without replacing body, repairs were made but now at $20 and up for body painted or need paining and supplies I run what I have till it pretty much falls apart. Winning right now is more important than looking pretty....
:p
Other_cents
10-17-2001, 03:06 PM
Yea these guys are the look pritty type of people. I did have one friend get hit from behind and it broke his body mounts on his XXX-s and ripped up his body really bad. He brought his other back out of retirement after that because he did not have the money for the new one.
Grizzbob
10-17-2001, 03:17 PM
I'm the same way, I try to run a body as long as I can, but how long it lasts varies & depends on where I run & who I run with. Some tracks are real meat grinders, & you can rip a new body in one day, while others make it easy to run incident-free & protect your bod for months(especially if they have a good barrier system)....Jdowvw, the speed one can get from their TC3 greatly varies & depends on what motor is installed, how it's geared, & how much room they have to run. Some on short tracks never go faster than 15mph, even though with a stock motor, they're capable of 25mph+, & with a mod motor(on a 6 cell battery) can easily see 40. But there are also people who cram as many cells(for extra voltage) as will fit on the chassis & the hottest motor they dare, & I've heard of one hitting 96mph set up that way.....:)
Other_cents
10-17-2001, 04:51 PM
Well, I cartwheelled my car off the course one day and I sliced someone else around a turn and put him on his back, but I try to stay away from everything else. We just have a lot of competitors out there. Most of the complain about the littlest things, but then turn around and do the exact same things to other people.
My body is trashed mainly because I just got the car and trying to fix the setup on it so it would drive properly. Also we race from 11:00 until 5:00 and the track temp changes so much that it is hard to drive.
Crazy Canuck
10-17-2001, 07:48 PM
I ran my body for 3 months of bi-weekly driving (3 hour sessions) and I just finished painting the new one. The old body has the following problems:
Front end held on with duct tape
All body holes cracked so far the clips literally slid through
Right rear door missing (seriously)
Crack in trunk running from left wheel well to middle of body.
TimmyPantano
10-22-2001, 10:00 PM
hey I have been thinking of asking for a TC3 for Christmas. I was wondering what battery and motor setups everone is using and how fast ( top speed) are you going. I was hoping to go about 35MPH+ ans was wondering what motor to get
TimmyPantano
10-23-2001, 06:57 AM
Also how hard is it to fit a stick pack in them. I have a rc10t3 and its fits in there. I have 2400 Trinity match stick packs I got from tower hobbies.
Crazy Canuck
10-23-2001, 07:09 AM
Stick packs fit in the TC3 quite nicely. I use a P2K Pro with 28/75 gearing and it goes about 30. You could get a mod, but 30 is quite good give it a try first. I use unmatched 2400s and matched 2000s.
tarheelquality
10-23-2001, 01:11 PM
I just finally got my tc3 I bought off of ebay over a month ago due to shipping problems. I am going to be racing it on a older parking lot track that is fairly fast due to being set up for gas cars and trucks to run. Any suggestions for set up? I am going to have to get a manual for the car to.
ChristopherKee
10-23-2001, 01:57 PM
You can download the manual from www.rc10.com. You can also download setup sheets from pro drivers. Just match the sheet with your track and you should be okay.
RC10T3
10-23-2001, 10:26 PM
yea, try a one-way if you find you arent as fast. Try hard springs, so you wont "float" around the sweepers.
tarheelquality
10-24-2001, 02:10 PM
Christopher,
I downloaded the manual and I have now run one pack through the car. It sticks great. I have a D4 14 turn in it and am disapointed in the speed so far but I am going to mes with the gearing. This truly is an innovative car still. The way the motor is held in place for one is really cool. Going to try to race it this weekend.
cwbysfan3
11-01-2001, 09:31 PM
Hello fellas, I thought I would post a pic of mine. I don't know if it is in the right place but here it is any way!!!!
diesel757
11-01-2001, 10:29 PM
cowboy fan where do you race? im just getting back into r/c after about eight years off things have deffinitely changed. THE SKINS #1(maybe one day)lol
TC3 Benjammin
11-02-2001, 05:09 PM
Question - I bought the Associated bearing spacers to make my TC3 200mm (I like the 200mm bodies better). Where do you install them? Thanks.
tc3mike
11-03-2001, 09:26 AM
I do not use the spacers, but I would guess that they would be inserted into the axle carriers behind the outside bearings.
FootFall
11-12-2001, 03:44 PM
Just thought I'd share. Here's my TC3.
Crazy Canuck
11-14-2001, 09:10 PM
I really like the body - who makes it?
I have a prob w/ my TC3 - the ball cups on the rear hub carriers keep rubbing the wheels. How should I solve this problem? I use RPM ballcups, if that makes a difference.
FootFall
11-15-2001, 06:07 PM
Hey Canuck,
If you're askin' about the body on mine, it's the 190mm HPI NSX with a little height modification done to the wing. My buddy did the paint as he was trying his hand at the airbrush for the first time in a while. (I gave him the NSX bod as a lab rat) :)
I've never heard of problems with the Ball-cups that you describe. If you find anything out let me know. I was considering putting RPM's on mine soon.
John (FootFall)
Crazy Canuck
11-15-2001, 06:56 PM
Yeah, the NSX is pretty sweet. Ill have to pick one up soon.
I fixed the ball cup thing, it was a bent pin in the hub carrier. The RPM ballcups are great, Ive never had one pop off. Pick some up, they're good and cheap.
tc3mike
11-15-2001, 07:36 PM
Has anyone had a problem using rpm cups on the servo in a tc3. Do you have a problem with them rubbing the servo as I have? How do you fix it?
maxxxracer
11-15-2001, 07:55 PM
here is mine that is fore sale
FootFall
11-16-2001, 02:10 PM
Wow Maxx, that's a sweet body.
As per the RPM cups: I've heard that they don't fit properly with certain turnbuckles. Is this true? I want to make sure that they'll work with my turnbuckles before I buy them. (I have the associated blue TB's)
Any one know?
John (FootFall)
Crazy Canuck
11-17-2001, 08:05 AM
Ive never heard of problems wit them fitting.
As for RPMs on the servo, you dont need them. the problem spots where the cups fall of are the camber links, I use them there and on the tie rods from the rack to the hubs.
proficar403
11-17-2001, 02:38 PM
Hey are any of you guys running delrin hopups? How do you like them in terms of weight and durability? have you ever broken any?
Right now i have delrin front arms. I bought them after giving up an a-arm every other race.
TC3 Benjammin
11-17-2001, 03:27 PM
Originally posted by tc3mike
Has anyone had a problem using rpm cups on the servo in a tc3. Do you have a problem with them rubbing the servo as I have? How do you fix it?
I put them on my steering linkage and it works fine. I left the stock ball end on the side that attaches to the steering rack. I added the RPM cup to the servo. I use Lunsford tb's.
ricderf78
11-20-2001, 08:05 PM
I need help with the spring setup. What color do I use? I lost the mains by 5sec. because of lose last turn. Right know I'm running yellows in front red in back.
Crazy Canuck
11-21-2001, 07:20 AM
What kind of a track do you run on? Carpet, Asphalt, concrete? Is it a tight tack, an open flowing track?
Without more info, all I can say is if you were loose, you probably want stiffer springs in the back.
ricderf78
11-21-2001, 01:55 PM
I running on a tight carpet. 100x30 track
Interceptor
11-21-2001, 03:41 PM
The RPM ball cups don't fit under the wider rear tires unless you file them alot. I finally had to replace the RPM with the stock ball cup on the rear end under the wheel. All the other ones on my car are the RPMs and they work great.
Crazy Canuck
11-21-2001, 05:44 PM
Yeah, go with stiffer springs, unless you have a rear swaybar, then take it off. You could also try adding a front swaybar if you cant find anything else that works. Also make sure your batterys are as far back in the chassis as possible.
ricderf78
11-21-2001, 10:20 PM
coll thanks alot I tried it and it worked great thanks.
primuswoostinkinhoo
11-25-2001, 07:51 PM
ive been swapping between my xxxs and my tce for about a month now. today i think ive made the decision to sell my xxxs i just had no luck with it. but with the tc3 i made the a main today and i didnt break a single part. its just a racer kit with no upgrades but it still outpreforms the xxxs in my opinion
rcguy49
11-27-2001, 01:02 AM
just wondering what would be the first hop up to do on a stock racer kit
Crazy Canuck
11-27-2001, 06:59 AM
BRP Wide Front and Rear Bumpers
Threaded Shocks, if you can afford them
If your motor gets to hot, get the wide clip-on heatsink.
Other than that, the TC3 is competitive right out of the box.
ricderf78
11-27-2001, 03:47 PM
Nerf wings help out a lot. No more spending time replacing rear a arms.
oside_james
11-27-2001, 08:18 PM
here's mine...you guys probably already seen it before but if you haven't...i just like showing it off even if you guys don't think it that dope.
james
oside_james
11-27-2001, 08:20 PM
i can never do this right...:rolleyes:
oside_james
11-27-2001, 08:20 PM
last two...
oside_james
11-27-2001, 08:21 PM
last one...
oside_james
11-27-2001, 08:27 PM
sorry about all of the separate posts. if anyone would be cool enough to tell me how to post multiple pics in one post i would really appreciate it! that's a sick body, uh? it's nothing great - or anything close to it (wow! a tc3!:rolleyes: ) - but i think all of the stickers help...what can i say except i was sticker happy:D once again, sorry if you have all ready seen the car. like i said, who hasn't seen a tc3? i just wanted to make sure it was in all of the right forums!
james
TC3 Benjammin
11-28-2001, 11:46 PM
That's pretty sweet, james! I really like that civic body. I have had my eye on a few different bodies (need a new one) and I think you made my mind up for me!
Is that an HPI or Protoform?
oside_james
11-29-2001, 12:10 AM
yeah, dude, that's right, it's an hpi body. some fruit at the hobby store was trying to get me to buy the associated body because he said it would fit the car while any other body wouldn't. the associated body was like $5 more, too! it's not that much but when you don't have unlimited funds, well, then it's kind of tight. anyhew, i knew that any 190mm body would work (except for some because of a lack for extended body mounts) , so i thought i'd give it a try...this is only my second body i've done and i know i'll get more elaborate as i progress. this one was painted, trimmed, and "stickered" all in under 2 hours! i was fast and sloppy, and i think it shows but most say i did real good. thanks for the comment!
james
losixxtpower
11-30-2001, 02:38 AM
What would everybody's favorite for receiver/controller/esc/motor/gearing setup be?
Crazy Canuck
11-30-2001, 07:09 AM
Originally posted by losixxtpower
What would everybody's favorite for receiver/controller/esc/motor/gearing setup be?
I use a P2K Pro, with 25/75 gearing. Works like a charm on a tight track. I use a Futaba Magnum sport, but I perfer my brother's XR2.
Cosmo
11-30-2001, 08:26 AM
For stock: LRP IPC SR esc, P2K2, 29/72 gearing
Modified: LRP IPC V7.1 esc, Orion Chrome Touring 8x2, 19/72 gearing
James414
12-01-2001, 02:32 AM
I am in the process of building a TC3 and have swaped out the bushings in the diff for bearings and was wondering if that was okay
Spurdog28
12-02-2001, 08:44 PM
Does anybody have any setups to race a TC3 on oval? We have a stock and modified class. I was thinking of trying to remove the drive shaft and freeing up the front end. I have about a 70' straight and 15' turns. Thanks for the info.
ricderf78
12-02-2001, 08:51 PM
On an oval you definiately want just the rear drive. other wise the front end will pull you through the corner. Try a 27 pinion and a stock 72 spur. slow out of corners but makes it up on top end.
rick
rc10tc3drivr
12-05-2001, 10:57 PM
has any one got the hardcore racing tc3 upgrades or heard anything about them. also does anyone make a aftermarket gear box
TC3 Benjammin
12-06-2001, 12:16 AM
Just got a new camera. Please bear w/ me, I don't quite know how to do this yet.
TC3 Benjammin
12-06-2001, 12:31 AM
Boy that resolution stinks. Hope this turns out better.
TC3 Benjammin
12-06-2001, 12:34 AM
That's much better. Sorry about the large pic, though. Need to work on my cropping.:)
TC3 Benjammin
12-06-2001, 12:38 AM
In case you're wondering, my TC3 is equipped as follows:
BRP front bumper and side nerf wings
LRP v6 ESC
Orion 11t motor
Integy matched 2400s
blue RPM ball cups
JR XR3 FM radio
blue screw set
Trinity front foam bumper
Proline Fury tires
HPI 5-star wheels (dyed black)
pretty fast little booger I must say!;)
TC3 Benjammin
12-07-2001, 12:46 AM
Anyone had experience with running "wet diffs"? By that I mean filling the transmission housings with silicone oil? I have heard that it makes the TC3 super quiet. You lose a little speed, but trade off for a TC thats quieter than the xxxs.
I love this car, but it's SO freakin' LOUD. I even use RRP absolute pinions and spurs.
ricderf78
12-07-2001, 12:57 AM
I love noise otherwise i just might fall asleep during practice...lol
James414
12-07-2001, 11:14 AM
Well I am to the point of building my shocks and I have them all at the same length but for some reason or another they appear to long. I have yet to put them on the chassis but the springs are what appear to be too short, everything is from a stock TC3 racer kit
tc3mike
12-08-2001, 07:21 PM
Build it as per the manual and all should be fine.
chucksolo
12-11-2001, 01:53 PM
I want to get the RTR model of the TC3 but want to know if it is easy to change out the motor on this car to a lower wind modified like a 15T Monsters of Touring or a 16 Turn Ruby Speed Gems. Don't try to talk me into buying the kit version. I do not want to build, period. Yes, I am capable of building one of these kits, I just DO NOT WANT TO. Any comments on changing the motor would be appreciated. Thanks.
TC3Racer
12-11-2001, 03:15 PM
chucksolo-
Yea the RTR TC3 is a good TC. Changing the motor is really easy as well. You only have to take of the metal motor clamp and swithc pinions on the motor as well as re-sauter the wires. Real easy. I'm not sure on what the motor limit is for the LRP Runner, but i'm sure a 16T will be fine.
chucksolo
12-11-2001, 03:40 PM
Thanks for the input. I wasn't aware that I had to solder anything though. I thouhgt the motor came with the connectors you can get with the GM3 Pro. What do you think of the GM3 Pro in this car for stock class. I have one of these that I put into my hopped up Traxxas 4-Tec for stock racing. I really like my 4-Tec, but I want the TC3 for the shaft drive. I get sick of taking small rocks out of my gears when I run in rough parking lots. I was also thinking about the OFNA OB4-International electric RTR, but the TC3 is cheaper and actually fared better in the shootout that RCCA conducted. The OB4 is also kinda hard to come by. The TC3 was on sale at Hobby People for $209.00 RTR.
I am about to get a TC3. it will be my first touring car. One thing i want to know, does the TC3 have enough ground clearance for me to drive it on my driveway and in my street?
Later
X
rc10tc3drivr
12-11-2001, 09:13 PM
yes u can raise and lower the ride hight
Crazy Canuck
12-12-2001, 06:17 PM
The TC3 comes with 5mm ride height, you might want to add more spacers, to bring it up to 7-8, so you dont scrape the chassis on the street.
Oyster
12-12-2001, 10:13 PM
Greetings! I am REALLY thinking about buying a FT TC3 before too long. I have been racing offroad for years, and this will be my first Touring car. It just looks like too much fun to pass up.
Since I'm getting into touring, I'd like to find a bunch of info on tires. Does anyone know where I can find this info? Thanks in advance.
- jon
kingkong
12-13-2001, 02:01 AM
So I just built my first kit. It's a TC3 racer w/stratus body. P2K2pro, super rooster, novak xxtra, 25/72 gearing, M8. I got into A-Main and lost only because my car is slow. Carpet road track with a nice long straight. I don't know why I'm not getting the speed other cars with almost identical setup get. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Crazy Canuck
12-13-2001, 06:59 AM
Kingkong, try going up to a 27 tooth pinion. It made a world of difference for me.
kingkong
12-14-2001, 02:02 PM
Thanks for the suggestion. After qualifying with a 24 tooth, I quick bought a 25 tooth and it seemed to help a little, so I see what you're saying about the 27. Only thing I don't understand is why everyone else at the track had great top speed with the 25/72. Do batteries make that much difference? And will the p2k2pro have enough umpf to still provide quick acceleration in the corners? Appreciate any input.:confused:
ricderf78
12-14-2001, 02:37 PM
The p2k will have enough umpf through the middle corners but if you want to try something different try the Green machine pro 3. It has umpf into the corners and out of the corners but it lacks the middle corners like the p2k.
kingkong
12-14-2001, 03:48 PM
Green Machine huh. So it will have the top end power and the out-of-corner punch I'm looking for?:D
Grizzbob
12-14-2001, 09:11 PM
Not quite. Green Machine 3's do have lots of top end, & their mid-range torque is ok(& torque at top end is great), they do NOT produce much torque at lower speeds. They were designed to stay at high speed, not accelerate to it, so they're at their best when used on big, sweeping tracks that require you to carry as much speed through corners as possible. If you need to slow down & accelerate out of them, then a P2K or P2K 2 would be a better choice. Personally, I like the P2K 2 now, its powerband is VERY similar to the MVP(a good cross between the low-speed torque of the P2K & the high speed of the GM3, without sacrificing overall power), so it's good on almost ANY track & it runs cooler & more efficiently than the MVP......:)
kingkong
12-17-2001, 11:03 AM
Right On! It sounds like I'm set. Got a 26 tooth pinion so i should have lot's more top end. Thanks for all the input!:cool:
James414
12-17-2001, 03:48 PM
Just wondering....... What kinda setup would I need to get a TC3 to do about 40+MPH I guess the info I am looking for is motor, battery, and gear ratio...
Any Ideas?
Just wondering what is the top speed that most get?
James414
12-17-2001, 04:05 PM
by the way I am just having fun in an open parking lot
chucksolo
12-17-2001, 04:22 PM
I would say to get 40 MPH you would need at least a 10 Turn motor. I really couldn't say about the gearing though.
James414
12-17-2001, 04:33 PM
10 turns, cool any particular multiple like single, double, triple and so on.
James414
12-17-2001, 04:41 PM
Do HPI rims fit on a TC3?
Grizzbob
12-17-2001, 07:18 PM
Yes, the TC3 can accept pretty much any wheels as long as they have 0 offset.....:)
kingkong
12-17-2001, 11:14 PM
James..TC3 comes with a 72 tooth, 48 pitch spur. I would buy a 29 or 30 tooth pinion with the 10 turn double and you should scream. On the web site they said someone went 70+ with 11 Double Sonic 2 motor geared 88/47 64 pitch. Some weird 10 cell battery setup though.
Crazy Canuck
12-18-2001, 06:04 PM
Whoa... back off on the gearing there. I use 27 with a P2k, and the motor gets hot. Look in the TC3 manual, and see what the reccomended gearing is. Then go no more than 1 tooth either way, you could smoke the motor.
XXX/TC3 Racer
12-18-2001, 11:35 PM
I am going to get the FT TC3 soon. I want to know your guys' thoughts on this, and anything you recommend, or any tips. Thanx....
Crazy Canuck
12-19-2001, 06:36 AM
Good choice, first of all. Get a BRP wide front and rear bumper. Dont install the swaybars until you try the car on a track, use them as tuning options. Have some extra A Arms and hub carriers. As soon as you break a plastic outdrive, replace them with metal.
Other than that have fun. Dont try to build too quickly, do it right.
XXX/TC3 Racer
12-19-2001, 05:34 PM
Thanx. The people on HPI said I don't need al that stuff, but I love the way the car looks, and how that stuff really works. The swaybars, the threaded shocks. I figure I would have gotton that stuff anyway, so why not just save myself 370.00 plue dollars, and go with the Ftkit?
I was wondering what the advantage of threaded shocks have over the other ones? I have a XXX Spec Buggy, and I am wondering if I should upgrade them or not...
What else should I get? Any tips on the building process, or other areas? Where can I get those Bumpers?
Grizzbob
12-19-2001, 06:15 PM
Well, the threaded shocks won't offer any performance advantage, but they are much more convienient to adjust your preload with(& can be useful when trying to get rid of chassis tweak) since you can make extremely fine adjustments. As for the BRP bumpers, I agree on the front one(I haven't tried the rear one), & you should be able to get any hobby shop to order them for you if they don't already stock them......:)
Crazy Canuck
12-20-2001, 06:51 AM
Use lots of lube in the diffs, and when youre putting on the top of the gearbox, tighten the screws slowly, they get hot from friction and strip
draggerman11
12-24-2001, 12:04 PM
TTT!
aeb3man_44
12-26-2001, 11:06 AM
hey im getting a tc3 team any good info about it?:cool::cool:
Crazy Canuck
12-27-2001, 08:50 AM
Good choice. Take your time, build it right.
aeb3man_44
12-27-2001, 11:51 AM
Do you think me getting a racer kit with 4 threaded shocks and the good mips is a better idea I mean then you'll have double the shocks and mips just better, and a better deal than getting the team, I was wondering because I might do that. I've never had a touring car nor a 4wd just 2wd buggys so i need some good advice from you guys.:D