Duratrax Evader ST Forum v1.0

[jdm3849]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXXJ49**&P=7 i hope that works,look at options at bottom of the page,do you know what rims those are?

[jdm3849]

sorry, ill try it again



http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXXJ49**&P=7

[pudder]

It said "Invalaid Stock Number" both links.

-mike

[jdm3849]

go to tower-type evader in search,then go to prebuilt or rtr evader then go to bottom of page at options their rpm ones but i dont know which type

[pudder]

They are all the chrome ones. Here...

RPMC8156-Chrome Talonz 3 spoke
RPMC8159-Chrome Talonz 3 spoke
RPMC8162-Chrome Clawz 6 spoke
RPMC8165-Chrome Clawz 6 spoke
RPMC8407-Chrome Slingshot
RPMC8409-Chrome Slingshot

I know all of them are correct, I think the last one is too. I don't know which ones ther are (front rear) but it should say on there. You can also visit www.rpmrcproducts.com for info on these rims too, though I dont think they have the product numbers on them.

-mike

[jdm3849]

thanks i always thought rpm rims were cool but i didnt know which ones fit

[offroader]

If you listened to my posts I said that THE MT MESH RIMS WILL WORK ON THE EVADER ST FOR THE FRONT WITH THE BEARINGS. All you have to do is buy the CORRECT rims, the front ones, and pop your bearings into them!

I tried the front ones the first time and they didn't fit...but they didn't fit...they were too big...and there was no adapter that came with them.

[jdm3849]

Everything is the best, the evader is dead last tho

that is quoted flippin fool he said tht in the "what do you think is the best truck out there" forum in the electric forum :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

[pudder]

They should fit. I think they only make one version of that rim for front and rear. I had trouble getting my bearings in, I had to tap them in with a screwdriver. All I did was set the bearing on the hole where it was supposed to be seated, took a socket for a little wratchet that was the size out the outside out the bearing, and took a large scrwedriver (because I had no hammer) and hit the socket, this forcing the bearing in.

It is best to get the most force out the outter part of the bearing because if you put it in the middle, you could put too much strain on it and damage or wreck your bearing. Only tap on the inside if you must, but go easy on it.

Never hit the sheild or seal on ANY bearing. If you di this, your sheild/seal will be damaged, and if it is metal sheilded (DuraTrax bearings), the bended sheild could hit the balls and damage or wreck them, also creating friction.

-mike

[jdm3849]

Everything is the best, the evader is dead last tho

that is quoted by flippin fool he said tht in the "what do you think is the best truck out there" forum in the electric forum

i cant get over that he said that, someone please hold me back:mad:

[pudder]

Ya, not to worry, he got kicked off, he said his computer is not even allowed on these pages anymore or something like that.

I talk to him almost every day on the net (MSN Messenger) and he doesn't usually make a big deal about my Evader, but him and his cousin, also a member of this board (Skelbow) they hate DTX for no aparrent reason at all and they are really stupid sometimes. Of course they are Traxxas thumpers. :mad:

-mike

[Buck]

that thread i started and alot of people just are taking it way to far i said nothing about saing which car sucks i said the best people like that guy make other people look bad

[pudder]

What are you talking about?

-mike

[ameittunen]

Guess what? I found out why the evader were braking, the reason is that when some of the parts were made, they missed a hydrating process. I think they siad it is when they boil them in water for about 2 hours. They also said that the replacement parts have been made correctly.

[jdm3849]

Originally posted by ameittunen
Guess what? I found out why the evader were braking, the reason is that when some of the parts were made, they missed a hydrating process. I think they siad it is when they boil them in water for about 2 hours. They also said that the replacement parts have been made correctly.

does that mean my whole truck is made of defective plastic?
if it does i think im goin to get a stampede with msc and motor for 76.00 for bashing.BTW,my 17 turn speed gems works great with my sprint with19/88 and it only gets warm:) .i tried it out cause i recently burned out my futaba mc330cr and am sending it back:mad:
sorry to ask but what is ameittunen,is it yur name or something

[offroader]

Pudder,

Those rims you listed from RPM...would the front ones come with the bearings in them or is that something you have to do on your own?

Thanks

[jdm3849]

with every wheel i know of you put the ones in your origional wheels into the new ones

[jdm3849]

(you take the old bearings and switch them into your new wheels)

[offroader]

Thanks jdm...i'm pretty dumb when it comes to this kind of stuff :(:( :(

[jdm3849]

Originally posted by offroader
Thanks jdm...i'm pretty dumb when it comes to this kind of stuff :(:( :(

thats ok,your not dumb everybody has to start out SOMEWHERE;)

[offroader]

is there a trick to getting the bearings out of the Evader Wheel?

[evaderstrules]

offroader, you take an allan wrench or small screwdriver, stick it through one bearing and push on the outer ring of the other bearing

this is what i am thinking of puting on my evader when i get it tell me what you think
proline speedhawgs
rpm rims
novak rooster speed control
trinity speed gems 16 turn triple motor
duratrax 2400 battery
also, what pinion should i use

[offroader]

offroader, you take an allan wrench or small screwdriver, stick it through one bearing and push on the outer ring of the other bearing

Thanks, I got it now...took some work, but I finally got the MT Mesh Front Wheels on and fitting properly. Thanks everyone for your help.

[pudder]

My trick is taking a small flathead scrwedriver, put it through the centre of the bearing, and onto the inned edje and pus gesntly untill it comes out, the last one, to take a small socket, sixe of the bearing, and tapt it out with a small hammer or screwdriver gently. You can use the socket to tap them in also.



Today at racing, my truck went over a barrier, I tried to turn around but a TC smoked my Evader to the other side of the track, and followed by another, then a 1/12 raped me up the ass to finish me off. After that, my rear end was twisted up, and the rear chassis plate was snapped, no big deal, I think any truck would have snapped if it was hit about 3 times at around 40mph.

No other problems besides that.

-mike

[offroader]

During my struggles to fit my new wheels on my Evader(everyone knows all about that i'm sure)...I emailed Duratrax through their "Car Support Product Support" email address and asked questions about taking the bearings out and what not...mostly the same questions I asked here.
Anyways, we exchanged a few emails back and forth and today I got an email saying that if I sent them my name and address they would send me new bearings at no charge just incase something went wrong.

I must say I was pleasently surprised and am very impressed that they would do something like that. Just thought I would share that with you guys.

Paul

[DanzST]

Believe it or not, I got the parts from both Duratrax and Tower today. So, if you don't get them in the next couple of days, I'd start hounding them.

[pudder]

If my Evader parts don't come by this weekend, I'm screwed. My LHS doesn't have the part, but expecting it in next week, and DuraTrax said my part should be here in 2-4 weeks, so I'll just hope it comes a week early. I guess for now I will have to attempt to repair it and hope it will hold through racing.

-mike

[offroader]

Hey guys it's me again...remember I'm new and don't know very much about anything...hehehe

I want to adjust the ride height on my Evader, I read in the manual that came with my truck that you can adjust the height through the threaded pre-load adjusters on the shock bodies...

1) what are the threaded pre-load adjusters and what do they look like?
2) what are the shock bodies and what do they look like?

I want to lower the front ride height because that will increase my steering right? I'm going to be racing indoors on concret.

Any help would be great and if there's anyway to include a picture or 2 of what those parts look like that would be awsome.

Thanks
Paul

[pudder]

Well you have to learn somewhere.

You want to have your ride height as low as you can. You wsee on the shock, there is a silver thing on top of the spring on the threaded shock, turn it to the highest point on the shock to soften up your suspension because if you have it hard, you will be sliding all over the place. You want to take the bottoms of the shock off the suspension arm and adjust it to the closest hole to the wheel, and on the top, to the highest hole closest to the side of the truck. Do this for all 4 of your shocks and you should have great handling.

I hope this helps, if you need any further assistance, just ask. I am at school right now and when I get home I could scan you a picture of the shock.

-mike

[offroader]

Thanks Mike, and if you could scan me a pic that would be awsome. Also is there anything else I should/could do to make it better for indoor racing?

Paul

[pudder]

Get some good onroad tires such as the Pro-Line Road Hawgs or Speed Hawgs. If you are racing on carpet, foam tires are usually a must. :)

-mike

[offroader]

ya i've got the road hawgs, the track is accually concrete.

Any chance of you posting a pic of that stuff for me, so i can make sure i'm doing things right?

[evaderstrules]

another way to lower your truck, is to take the pre-load thing all the way down and leave it there for a couple of days, then turn it all the way up and the shock will be shrunk for a while so your truck will be lower

[DanzST]

I just got the new bulkhead installed on my truck. I went outside and was running it on the street. I was taking it easy, just up and down the street. I was running up on the sidewalk and jumping it off, no big deal. I got up the "handicapped" part of the sidewalk for a bit of a ramp and when it landed the front shock tower folded. Just in case you didn't see before, I DIDN"T RUN INTO ANYTHING. I expected the truck to be a little more durable. If I tried one of the jumps like they do on their promotional video, I bet the truck would disintegrate. I definitely got a BAD truck (i.e bad plastic that they had). I hope they come out with aluminum upgrades SOON. Iwould like to run it more than once before it breaks.

-Dan

[pudder]

Gees man, that must suck the poop. I have a really good truck that is strong. I tried bigger jumps than on the ved and nothing happened.

I guess I will go scan that picture now...

-mike

[pudder]

Okay...

1-The preload collar adjustment thing, you turn this to adjust the spring tension on the threaded shock body...

2-...The threaded shock body where you turn preload collar(1) to adjust the spring tension. You want to have the preload collar at the top of the shock body (#4) so that your springs will be soft and you will get better handling.

3-Shock shaft, just thought you might want to know that.

4-Shock body

If you need any more help just ask me.

-mike

[pudder]

Here is the second picture, you see the preload collar (circled in blue) at the bottom, that is where you don't want it to be. In figure 1-1, it shows you want it at the top.

Hope this helps.

-mike

[offroader]

Thanks Mike, it helps alot

[offroader]

Hey Guys,

Just wondering if anyone has custom painted their own Evader Body? I'm in the process of masking mine right now and so far it looks pretty good and I'd like to see some pics of others if anyone has done one.

Paul (http://paulsrc.itgo.com)

[pudder]

I haven't done one yet, I'm gonna keep this body till the end because I like it. I might be painting another one sometime in the near future for a buggy because I am going to be getting a Kyosho Outrage and making it a buggy.

I have painted, uh... 3 bodies I think, here is one of them...

It is on a different truck though.

[pudder]

Another shot...

-mike

[pudder]

Here is different one...

-mike

[pudder]

Here is the first body I ever did. I was pretty proud.

-mike

[jdm3849]

man this thread is growing and growing,keep up the good work with all the help, thanks:cool:

-mike

[pudder]

Originally posted by pudder
Today at racing, my truck went over a barrier, I tried to turn around but a TC smoked my Evader to the other side of the track, and followed by another, then a 1/12 raped me up the ass to finish me off. After that, my rear end was twisted up, and the rear chassis plate was snapped, no big deal, I think any truck would have snapped if it was hit about 3 times at around 40mph.

No other problems besides that.

-mike

Well anyways, if I havent mentioned, I think I fixed my rear chassis plate.

I took a peice of aluminum and made 2 holes in the front of it, and took a peice of aluminum, made 4 holes in it, and bolted it on (2 screws on motor gaurd and other 2 on front). I just was out driving it and it held up in the cold so I am hoping it will hold atleast for a race or 2 this weekend and I should have my new part in for next week.

-mike

[Poolboy51]

What cars are those?

[pudder]

Black truck is a DUraTrax Maximum ST
Green Truck is a Kyosho Outrage and as is the blue one though wehn I got the blue body, by then the truck was heavily modified
-----
I know I'm not really supposed to do this but would anyone want to buy a 2 stick DuraTrax Real Race from me I'm looking for 25$ shipped OBO or trade for some decent batts or lots of other things.

-mike

[ashilli]

I am just now getting into the hobby and am trying to get a graps of some of the basics. I own a Duratax Evader and was wondering about its original plastic parts versus aluminum. I understand the greater strength is in the aluminum, but what about the weight? Is the difference significant and if so is it justified to obtain a sturdier truck?

BTW, how is everyones parts shipments coming? I bought my Evader on 1/26, ordered replacement parts 1/28, got them 2/1. It looks like Duratrax is catching up.

[jdm3849]

there really isnt much of a difference between weight in plastic and aluminum,so i would just wait till you break the part to replace it with aluminum,when you order it dont plan on getting it soon cause i ordered the blue aluminum braces on 11/23/01 and i am still waiting for them to get in stock @ tower hobbies

[ashilli]

I figured as much on the weight. Now what I am learning is that aluminum, rather than giving a little under stress, simply passes the energy of the imapct, or whatever, on to other, possibly weaker, always more expensive (LOL), parts. What I am now trying to find out is what parts should be aluminum over plastic and will not cause passed along damage.

[ashilli]

The Evader seems to be pretty impressive so far. My latest issue is run time. My battery pack wires seem to be exposed from rubbing against the battery retaining bar. Will this exposed wire cause a loss of power? Everything else seems to be in order. The charger tells me the pack is full (Intellipeak or whatever, by Duratrax). I also resoldered the motor wire back on over the capacitor, then realized and resoldered it in the right place. The capacitor connection now has alot of solder on it it, is this bad?

[jdm3849]

definately a aluminum battery strap,lol

[offroader]

Another dumb question,

How do I find out what frequency my radio is?

Paul

[nascarfreak88]

Green Body- A1 26.995
Yellow Body- A4 27.145
Blue Body- A2 27.045
Silver Body- A5 27.195
Red Body- A3 27.095
Purple Body- A6 27.255


hey look, 999 POST!!!!!:D

[pudder]

I raced today, had problems with my motor in last 2 races but had an absoloute blast. My truck stuck to the carpet w/o any traction compound, and my skills were up there, just not my motor.

My aluminum rear chassis plate fix worked great and my truck ran through it all except that damn motor, should have pics soon.

I also bought a Kyosho Outrage from a friend and once I get that going I might race it for a day.

-mike

[offroader]

Here's my latest paint job...it's an Evader Body. It didn't turn out quite like I had imagined it would but I don't think it's too bad...

[offroader]

Here's my truck with the original Evader Body and my new MT Mesh Wheels and Pro-Line Tires...I think it looks sweet with those Wheels on it...

[offroader]

Here's a pic of all my truck bodies...

From Right to Left: HPI F-350, HPI NMT-1, Duratrax Evader, Original Evader.

[DanzST]

Only because this string is getting so long, what did you have to do to get those wheels to fit on there properly? Both sets are rear wheels or what? I think the bodies look sweet indeed. Thanks for the help.

-Dan

[offroader]

what did you have to do to get those wheels to fit on there properly? Both sets are rear wheels or what?

No the ones on the front are front ones and the ones on the back are back ones. The front ones fit fine once you get the bearings out of the original wheels and put them in the new ones, thats what I was having so much trouble with before but I finally got it figured out(thanks to everyone on here) and they fit perfectly.

Paul

[MrB1973]

OK, time for me to throw my hat in the ring....so here goes:

I bought a used Evader from e-bay (along with an AE RC10T3, charger, batteries, etc) and I finally got the motor in, and I mounted the ESC and receiver and connected all the wired and everything ran...so I was happy. I even crashed a couple of times and nothing broke....so I was even happier.

But then this happened....I ran into a cement curb at pretty much full throttle, and the ESC dislodged from it's perch on the rear shock tower and the receiver went flying too. Both were mounted with double sided tape as recommended by my LHS. I understand what went wrong with the receiver...I rigged the mount becuase it did not fit into the channel, and I knew when I did it that it was going to be trouble, but I figured it would allow me to at least run a couple of packs and get going.

What bugs me though is the ESC...I noticed that the shock tower is cut out in an X pattern, so the back of the ESC only has about 30% or so of surface area contact. Did I mount it wrong, or is this what everyone else has experienced?

Any advice, tips or ridicule is equally welcome.

Thanks

:D

[Noff]

Mr B:

While you wont have contact to the entire shock tower, partial contact should be more than adequate. You were advised well by your LHS to use double sided tape.

A few throughts come to mind:
1) Did you clean off the mounting surface on both the shock tower and the ESC? These have to be "squeaky clean" for the tape to work correctly. I use alcohol (denatured or isopropyl) to clean off all the oil and dirt off of the surfaces I am mounting the double sided tape to. This is important to do to get the maximum "grip" out of the tape.

2) There ARE differences between different brands of double sided tape, sometimes HUGE differences. I use the Bolink stuff and been very happy with it. I am sure that many others here can also recommend something that they have been using in case you cannnot find the bolink stuff. 3M also makes some nice double sided tape. If you have a good automotive paint store nearby or a good home improvement store, You should be able to find 3M double sided tape.

3) Try mounting the receiver (RX) on its side.... (or is that what you did?)

I hope this helps.....

Noff

[MrB1973]

OK, I'm guilty of not cleaning the surfaces properly....I will correct that oversight immediately....but before I do, will nail polish remover work (just in case I don't have any alcohol)???

As for the receiver, I mounted it flat, but I tried to rig a platform to raise it above the rails of the chassis. I think this theory will work if I use a better material for the platform (I will not reveal the material of my original platform so as to maintain some level of dignity here on this forum ;) ) . I did read somewhere else in this thread about someone who cut the rails to make room, but I am hesitant to do that becuase I don't want to compromise structural integrity...any thoughts????

Thanks.

[jdm3849]

dont really know but when i got my futaba mc330cr i didnt want it to be in an ugly and a place where i got at it easier so i took a dremel hehe, and drilled out the battery "lip" and put some velcro (30 pound capacity) and it comes off easily (like taking off by hand not falling off) and theres no weakness by cutting it,also then i mounted my receiver on my shock tower so it wouldnt get wet as easily, i just used alchohol to clean the surface first

[jdm3849]

BTW,that was me that cut it and theres no extra flex or anything dont be worried to do it cause you wont be dissapointed

[MrB1973]

OK, turns out the receiver and ESC mounting is the least of my problems.....
Much like the rest of the folks here, I also broke my front bulkhead, body mount, bumper and suspension arms.

Now I have to hope that duratrax won't pee all over me because I bought it used off e-bay instead of at a store....I filled out the forms on-line and have started the prayer circle.

Thanks guys for the advice and assistance. As for the mounting of the reciever, I think I am going to try for a balsa wood riser, becuase I don't have a Dremel (or any other means) of cuttin the rail.

[Green-Evader-ST]

Anyone familiar with those concrete Skate parks? ment for skateboards or roller blades. Anyway, took my Evader out to one yesterday since it was empty. It was alot of fun jumping on the ramps and quarter pips. But was a little hard on my Evader, landing 4 feet to bottom out on concrete would be hard on any car. I broke the front body mount, front bumper and two of the rims (not too big a deal) but I also broke the chasis. I'm certain any car would have had similar damage and the chasis was only two small cracks at the open end of the battery compartment.

[MrB1973]

This is what Duratrax says about receiver mounting....



Install the receiver to the chassis. You can try to remove double-sided foam block used on the old chassis or use several layers of new (not included) double-sided foam tape to obtain the same elevation so that the receiver will clear the rails on the chassis. DO NOT cut the rails on the chassis for the receiver to fit, as this will drastically weaken the chassis.


Just thought I would pass it along.

[MrB1973]

I don't know if anyone else noticed this, or possible it was already posted but...

Pudder...pay attention to this, becuase you might be very intereseted...


Tower hobbies is listing replacement ALUMINUM Evader parts for late March delivery......


HTH

[pudder]

Huh, what am I paying attn to?

What do you mena Tower has replacement Evader parts in Alu, give me a link to it.

Anyways, I am very happy with my Evader.

DuraTrax is an awsome company, they replaced my ESC for free, got it back in about 2 weeks, and my replacement part from online in less than two weeks.

I wonder if Noff is Jeff Nosinger from DuraTrax? ;)

I mount my stuff with velcro, and the esc on the shock tower, of you look on the bottom there is a small flat part that is perfect to mount it. I hope t doesnt come off in a crash, or I will have to use additional zip-ties.

I have been busy for the last little while I havent been on here and I got a new truck too.

-mike

[ashilli]

offroader- what are those wheels, where did you get them and how much. They are bad*ss. Great paint jobs by the way.

[ashilli]

pudder- please tell me what your problem was with your ESC? I am having similiar ESC issues. Whenever I am running my truck it only seems to last a few minutes before it cuts out. Usually when i go from reverse straight to forward. Duratrax wants me to send them my whole truck. I told them no way, I waited to long to get it to have send it away again.

[pudder]

I think his rims are PRM Clawz 6 spoke.

I have no clue what was wrong with my esc, it was going fine, then started cutting out all the time and just quit for good, but they sent me a new one free. I also had a spare to use in the meanwhile.

When your battery gets low enough, I think the ESC will shut off for a few seconds, I don't know yet, nevver driven with the new one.

-mike

[offroader]

offroader- what are those wheels, where did you get them and how much. They are bad*ss. Great paint jobs by the way.

They are the HPI MT Mesh Wheels, I got them at my LHS. You can get them at TowerHobbies I think.

Paul

[ashilli]

My Evader does the same thing, even when the batteries are fresh. How did you get them to take care of the problem? Like I said before they want me to mail them my entire truck.

[MrB1973]

Pudder,
I was saying that they have the parts listed, but that they will not be in stock until late March.

If you go to tower hobbies and search on EVST, look around and you will see aluminum and titanium parts listed. Based on what I have read, this is what you have been pushing for, no?

Cool.

[Buck]

hi i shop at the same lhs i was woundering if you know if he has and more of those rims in na what is the $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ of them. Where did you get those tires and how much?
Nice paint job

[ashilli]

yeah, whats the price on the tires too. The ones shown on the rims on the HPI site are dirt hawg m2 truck tires and are 17.99 apiece. Are the ones you have any cheaper?

[pudder]

My esc did that with a full pack too.

I just packaged it up, sent it to DuraTrax with a brief note of what happened, and a copy of the reciept and they sent me a new one free, you only need to send the ESC, not anything else.

I was pushing for stiff plastic, or graphite parts because aluminum ones will be expensive, I will have to see how much they are.

-mike

[offroader]

Buck,

You live in London? There is indoor racing every Sunday if you are interested? I am going to be racing this Sunday for the first time :D :D

The rims where $14.99 a pair and the tires are Pro-Line Speed Hawgs and they where $24.99 a pair I believe. I'm pretty sure there where more in stock but if not just tell them to order you some. They send out their orders every Sunday and get them in the following Thursday. You can email them what you want them to order you here:

order@avfrc.com

If you're interested in coming out to race or even just to check it out let me know and I'll give you directions to get there...it really is pretty cool and I can't wait for Sunday to get here. :D :D :D

Paul

[ashilli]

offroader- it looks like you have the V-Groove tire on front and back, how does it run with that setup? Also can someone tell me why the truck comes with knobby tires in rear and grooves up front, is this a race setup? If so would the setup be best with dirt hawg M2's in back and V-Grooves up front?

[offroader]

I just got this email back in response to an email I sent about my replacment parts...

They wrote:

Dear Sir,

Thank you for your recent e-mail. We placed the order for your replacement parts. Unfortunately we do not have all of them in stock but they are due to arrive here by the end of the month and we will ship them out as soon as we get them. Please allow 7-10 business days for deliveries within the US and 4 to 6 weeks to Canada. Thank you for your patience and your business.

Tim

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I wrote back asking why it took so long...when I sent in my order for the replacement parts the web site AND TowerHobbies both said they had the parts in stock. Why did it take so long to put my order through?

Just thought I'd let you guys know what the latest news is.

Paul

[offroader]

it looks like you have the V-Groove tire on front and back, how does it run with that setup?

I'm not sure how it runs...my first test will be this Sunday when I race it for the first time. Do you not usually have V-Groove tires on the front and back? Those are just the tires the guy at my LHS said to use for racing inside on concrete.

Paul

[ashilli]

Anyone wanting a closer look at the rims check out www.hpiracing.com

[offroader]

Here's a pic of the rims that are on my truck...I personally think they're sweet!!

[ashilli]

I have never raced, but when I do it will be staight dirt. I assume by most setups I see that the norm is knobby on back and grooved up front.

[ashilli]

how did you paste that pic from their website?

[pudder]

Whoever told you to run dirt hawgs and v-treads on concrete is not too smart. Buy some good quality tires MEANT for that use like Pro-Line Road Hawgs. V-treads are usually crappy all the time unless modified, or are some good Pro-Line ones.

Spike in the rear and ribbed in the front for tires are for offroad racing.

Would anybody be able to come up for a weekend long race we are having, it is 2 days and upcoming in probably 2 or 3 weeks in Winnipeg on a carpet track, you are allowed to use slicks I think, but foam tires are reccomended.

-mike

[offroader]

Whoever told you to run dirt hawgs and v-treads on concrete is not too smart. Buy some good quality tires MEANT for that use like Pro-Line Road Hawgs. V-treads are usually crappy all the time unless modified, or are some good Pro-Line ones.

Pudder was that for me? Cause I'm not running Dirt Hawgs on concrete I'm running Pro-line Speed Hawgs on concrete.

Paul

[pudder]

Okay good, I though you meant Dirt Hawgs. :o Save the v-treads for the snow :D

I have my Kyosho Outrage to drive in the snwo, it is so fun.

-mike

[ashilli]

pudder- when you mailed off your ESC to Duratrax how long did it take to get your new one, how did you send it to them, how did they send it back? Is the ESC the only part you sent?

[pudder]

Yes, the ESC was the only part I sent off. I never had the switch on there either and they didn't care.

-mike

[ashilli]

How many of you out there are doing serious racing with your Evaders? Whats the competition like? Are you winning alot? How long have you been racing, with or without Evader?

[pudder]

I am racing, not really seroiusly. I am doing okay, last week I got like third last overall because I was having problems with my motor.

There was another Evader there and he did really good too.

-mike

[ashilli]

Is sending your stuff to Duratrax the only way to something fixed? They dont have licensed dealers that do warranty work? Like you would do with a mower or something.

[offroader]

I didn't send anything back to Duratrax, I simply filled out the online form found here http://www.duratrax.com/techsupport/evader-support.html and recieved an email saying they would fill my order once the parts where in stock (who knows when that will be). It says right on the web page that you don't have to send the parts back to them.

About the racing...I'm going to race my first race this Sunday :D :D

Paul

[DanzST]

Offroader-
I took your advice on the rims and went and picked a set of the white MT Mesh wheels at my LHS. The had a set of Team Losi "T-90" tires that I had to get. They are similar to the ones you have from Pro-line. As you said the rims fit without a problem. I'll get pics of my truck in soon. I bought a new body to go with it as well. One thing I noticed while testing the new tires out was that it was REAL sluggish, going straight, turning, you name it. Then I took a closer look at how the back was set up. Now that I have the new tires on, it appears that there is a lot of toe in on the rear wheels as well as camber. So about 2/3 of the tires isn't even touching the ground. It wasn't as obvious with the original tires. I'll have to adjust it all and give it another try tomorrow. Anyone had to make any similar adjustments? Any suggestions?

[offroader]

Dan,

Hmmmm...that's interesting about it being a bit sluggish. I haven't had it out yet with the new wheels on it, I'll be racing Sunday so I guess I'll find out then, hopefully it won't be too bad.

I would be very interested to know what ajustments you make to it and wether or not they work...maybe I could do the same before Sunday.

Thanks
Paul

[jdm3849]

i have rpm clawz that i hav picked up for the xxt, i have dirt hawgz on mine right now with stock rims and it works pefect on grass,dirt,street you name it...... i think its all in your head no offense;)

[DanzST]

Paul-
I took a look at the rearend and by design you can't adjust the "toe-in." Needless to say, I'm not adjusting it. I ran the truck tonight and the tires seemed to "settle" a bit and they as well as the truck performed great (thanks jdm 3849, my psychologist says I'm fine now). I kind of expected a bit more grip out of the tires though on the asphalt, they tend to slide a bit. How is everyone else's street tires handling? As for the sluggishness, not a bit of it tonight. I must have not had a full charge in the battery, but I could have sworn that I charged it right before I went out (again jdm3849, my doc says I'm fine, really). If I do this right there should be a picture of my truck with its new body, rims, and tires. I got tired of the full on dirt race truck look, so I tried the street machine look and yes there were minor modifications to get the body on there right, no big deal though.

-Dan

[DanzST]

I forgot to add, obviously the wheels are HPI MT Mesh, the tires are Team Losi "T-90s" the silver compound with foam inserts. They are like a V-groove street tread. The ST can spin the "H" out of them on the street.

-Dan

[jdm3849]

that looks sweet!!!!!!!,i always have wondered what a truck body like that would look like on an st.i am forgetting what my evader looks like cause i got bad grades and have been grounded from it for bout 3 weeks so please post pics of what it looks like on the inside lol.my tires kind of fold over when i turn hard on the street but its was ok until one of the tires came of and i landed on the rim and cracked it lol:D

[pudder]

I haven't been on for a while...

Ashilli- I had to send it to DuraTrax because it is not under the Stress Tech Warranty...

Offroader-You cannot simply just select the ESC from there, you need to send it in for them to repair/replace it. Only the ST (Stress Tech) parts are on the website.

Dan, that looks good. I am saving my Evader body for later use, and am starting to race now with a old crapy body that came with my Outrage that came from a Traxxas Blue Eagle, it has been on many a car and the body is about 9 or so years old, well since 1990.

I think Dan, you could also gear it up to make for the loss of gearing here. To explain this better, if you put smaller Diameter tires on, such as street tires, you will want to get a bigger pinion, probably 1-2 teeth larger. You could probably use some traction compound on your tires to make them stick to the track better.

(Sorry if I am wording different today, it has been to cause I was reading The Hobbit for about 4-5 hours last night)

If I go on the road with street tires, I could spin the **** out of them with the P2k 2, but since it is my racetruck, I don't do that to it, in the summer time I will bash it, right now, it is indoor, so the dirtyest it is gonna get is by dust collecting on it over the week.

I have my Outrage for beating around in the snow :D.

-mike

[offroader]

Dan,

Thanks for the update and I'll let you know how mine performs after tomarrows racing...by the way, that body looks pretty good on there, did you paint it yourself?

Paul

[EVADER*ST]

I was driving my evader after i put my new motor in it, and my friend was driving his traxxas rustler stock; and he hit me head on going about 20 and i was going like 40. Then my whole front end broke so i fixed it today went out and jumped some ramps, and i was getting like 4 feet in the air off this little ramp and my chassis crack a little then my fried stepped on it on accident and broke it in half. Im pissed!!!!

[jdm3849]

chassis=stress tech garuntee

[jdm3849]

BTW, what motor? i had a 17 turn & 7 cell 19/88 and ran into curb avoiding friends rustler broke bulkhead lol

[DanzST]

Paul (offroader)-
Yes, I did paint it myself. I used masking tape to get the stripes right. I'm still getting the hang of painting these type of bodies, I'm used to plastic. Have you "airbrushed" any bodies? That is what I would like to do from now on. How hard is it to airbrush? Is the equipment expensive? What paint do you use? Any help would be great.

-Dan

[nascarfreak88]

Hey DanzST, check out the Bodies, Painting, & Detailing Forum..... you can get your info there.................:)

[offroader]

Have you "airbrushed" any bodies? That is what I would like to do from now on. How hard is it to airbrush? Is the equipment expensive? What paint do you use?

Dan, I haven't used an airbrush, I paint all mine using Pactra paint in cans.

Paul

[offroader]

Well today was my first day of racing and well...I must say I'm very disapointed. During my first run (warm up), the first time I hit a barrier I cracked my Front Bulk Head on the side where the Front Suspension Arm attaches. I did a quick repair job using some super glue and a heat gun. About 45 minutes later when it was good and set I gave it another shot, this time I got about 3 or 4 laps around the track before I hit another barrier...this time I broke the Front Bulk Head in 3 places (see picture below), the Front Brace and chipped the corner off the Front Bumper. I wasn't going anywhere near full speed when I hit the second time and did all that damage...thats really ****** especially at my first race and before the race even started.

[jdm3849]

yea,thats happened to me two times except one of the times the whole bulkhead was in three seperate pieces,it would have been impossible to glue mine back together,i did that running into my curb with my 17 turn 19/88 and 7 cell trying to avopid my friends rusty the first day i got my replacement bulkhead

[offroader]

I'm going to attempt to glue it all back together so I can maybe race next Sunday as I'm sure I won't get my replacement parts by then.

Can you get anything else in Aluminum besides the Front Brace?

[jdm3849]

i have the aluminum braces on order in blue @ tower.......you can get trans. brace, battery strap,front a-arms,rear a-arms

[jdm3849]

oh and i THINK the hub carreiers

[offroader]

oh and i THINK the hub carreiers

I just noticed the left one on mine is broken...DAMN!!!

[jdm3849]

OUCH! if you get aluminum ones they'll be on backorder for a while cause i ordered my braces on 11/23/00 so good luck
-mike

[offroader]

What are the product #'s for the aluminum A-Arms?

[jdm3849]

this is @ tower
LXBDK4 DuraTrax Knuckle Arm Aluminum Blue (2) EVST 24.99
LXBDK5 DuraTrax Knuckle Arm Aluminum Purple (2) EVST 24.99

[jdm3849]

oops i thought that they were arms but i was wrong so scratch that

[Buck]

how much does it cost to race each week and is there any other frees ???????

[ashilli]

jdm3849- I noticed you made reference to a bumper. Is that the optional bumper you can order and if so how do you like it? Is it race regulation and do you have any pics? I saw where you posted on another board that your ride was pretty hopped up and I like to see what everyone else has done to their Evaders so I can get some ideas. Thanks.

[offroader]

how much does it cost to race each week and is there any other frees ???????

It's $10 to race and thats the only fee you have to pay. There is food available(hotdogs, hamburger, etc...) for about $1 or $2 as well.

If you're interested let me know and i'll get you directions and stuff like that.

Paul

[pudder]

I was supposed to get my blue bumper in today, but the race owner said tomorrow, so I guess I will get it next weekend, It is my own fault for breaking it, and I donubt I will even order a new one, might, if I have time. Some other guys at racing had bad luck, well only one guy, ge broke an a-arm and something else, I didn't really care because I was having so much fun. I never broke anything, and had a blast and didn't do all that bad either.

-mike

[jdm3849]

thanks for saying my ride is hopped up ashilli,i saw you at the rcv forum too.the yellow bumper i ordered from tower is the same as stock but yellow so yes it is useable for racing.i like it because it makes it look even more like a losi,hehe.i would love to post pics but i dont have a camera:mad: .btw it is the optional bumper


buck-at my track there is a regular fee of 5$ and if you practice all day it is 5$ too

[Buck]

did you get the unpainted evader body from avf if so how $$$$ much was it and where do you race you can e-mail it to me if you want at joshdenver@hotmail.com

[pudder]

Mine charge 15$ for the day, there is no practicing, just a little in the morning and at lunch time, basicly just for people to race, not screw around.

I don't even know what I got overall, I know I placed second in the main and I bet if I would have upped 1 tooth on the pinion i would have won. Oh well, I had a blast.

I see some nice T3's with all blue stuff, they make sexy I want that blue stuff on my Evader! :D

I wish I got some new pics of it...

There was a guy there and he had McDonald's stickers there and everyone was putting them on their vehicles.

-mike

[offroader]

Buck,

I got AVF to order the clear body for me, just let them know you want them to and they will with no problem. If it's easier for you just email them at: order@avfrc.com Just tell them what you want and the product #, they place orders every Sunday and they get the stuff the following Thursday.

I'll send you an email alittle later tonight with all the info for racing.

Paul

[EVADER*ST]

you read the story of what happend on page 9, but here are some pics of my broke ass car.

[offroader]

OUCH!!!

[DanzST]

Nascarfreak88-
Thanks for the information, I found a lot of useful info there. Redhouse, WV, where's that? I'm from Morgantown, WV and my wife is from Summersville, WV. We are in Chicago right now. Good to see "rednecks" know a bit about RC as well.

Evader*ST-
That has got to hurt!!!! Not to mention going to leave a real bad scar!! Get it fixed yet?

[pudder]

That is the next best thing compared to my rear chassis plate broken. If I were you, I would slap some aluminum plates for the meanwhile untill I get new part.

-mike

[RichieRich]

EVADER*ST - OUCH! According to Tower Hobbies, this type of "injury" has been fairly common. In 6 months, when you get your new chassis, hopefully Duratrax will have an upper chassis plate available to help strengthen the chassis.

[offroader]

According to Tower Hobbies, this type of "injury" has been fairly common. In 6 months, when you get your new chassis, hopefully Duratrax will have an upper chassis plate available to help strengthen the chassis.

I haven't heard of anyone else breaking the Chassis yet and Tower Hobbies says they have them In Stock, but it would be nice if they came out with an upper chassis plate or something to strengthen it.

I recieved an email from Hobby Services yesterday Feb 11 saying the back ordered parts are due in next week and they will ship them out as soon as they arrive, we'll have to wait and see what happens.

Paul

[nascarfreak88]

Originally posted by DanzST
Nascarfreak88-
Thanks for the information, I found a lot of useful info there. Redhouse, WV, where's that? I'm from Morgantown, WV and my wife is from Summersville, WV. We are in Chicago right now. Good to see "rednecks" know a bit about RC as well.

Evader*ST-
That has got to hurt!!!! Not to mention going to leave a real bad scar!! Get it fixed yet?
E-MAIL ME...............

HEY DOSE ANY ONE KNOW WHEN THESE THINGS ARE GOING TO BE IN STOCK ON TOWER!?!!?!?!?!?!?! IT BEEN OVER A MONTH!!

[pudder]

Could easily make a good alumium upper chassis plate that goes across the whole thing.

-mike

[evaderstrules]

EVADER*ST thats great looks like you will need some 2 second bondo.
duratrax really needs to make some graphite stuff like everything
here's what i am going to do to my car tell me what you think
speed gems 14 turn double
2400 battery
rpm rims 6 spoke
pro-line speed hawks
super rooster speed control
what pinion should I use

[offroader]

Does anyone know if the Losi chassis fits the Evader and if so whats the part # for it?

[pudder]

I don't know if it fits, it might. If no one replies by Sunday, I could find that out forsure for you as there is a guy with an XXt there.

-mike

[2nd Gear]

Well I know about this because the guy I sold my evader to wanted to use the upper brace for the xxt.The steering bellcrank system is different.Youll need the losi -upper brace-frnt bulkhead-bellcrank support-maybe the bell cranks them selves-the only thing I dont know is the rear arm mount.(shock towers are the same)So if you were to use the losi chassis xxt then you will basicly have a xxt w/ evader transmission when you get done.:confused:

[pudder]

Know what you do, buy tons of spare parts, problem solved, and if you break some, fix them so that they will still work and keep them for backup, it is smart, but luckily I have had much luck with this truck and not needing to do anything much wiht it.

-mike

[Poolboy51]

Wow! Big upgrade in performance since I replaced the defective parts that came with it! Only broke somthin because i was getting 4-5 feet of air, and I broke 1 piece, then recieved it in less than a week.

But now my electrinic are giving out (I think) My motor is getting rally hot and making a really gross chemical smell. My ESC is getting hot too. I'm not sure, but most of the time I don't get very good responses from the truck(eg. large turing radius, abnormal throttle, etc) I prolly just need to change the transmitter batts considering the light on the treansmitter has been blinking for a while. Oh well, we'll see tom0rrow. I have mid-winter break so I'll plenty of ime to work on my track and play with the car.:D :D

[MrB1973]

OK, for the longest time I lurked in here and chuckled to myself at all the people breaking their evaders. Then I bought one off e-bay. Then the laughing stopped. I first broke my front bulkhead and bumper thingy (no biggy on that one...) hitting a curb at an angle at full throttle. No big deal....clearly operator error which is ok, since like most people this is my first 'real' RC vehicle.

Then the laughing turned into disbelief today. I was cruising down a hill, across a street and apparently into a curb causing my beloved evader to somehow flip and snap the chassis, front bulkhead, servo brace and probably a bunch of other things I have yet to figure out. I don't really know how it happened since I could not see down the hill, but again, I think this one is clearly another case of operator error (or misuse).

In both cases I submitted a request through the duratrax website and I have recieved their automated confirmation e-mails, but no parts. The first time I bought replacement parts from Tower, but I don't think I can do that again without my wife killing me.
I guess now I REALLY have to get my T3 up and running....

Cheers!!!!

[jdm3849]

just got done running my evader,that was sure fun!!!!!!! i cant beleive the esc only gets warm with my 17 turn speed gems. I took a trip to my lhs today, i got the hpi rims,i dunno what there called,they remind me of spider webs or something. i also got a dynamite 1700,this thing gets good run times for the price,i ran into a metal pole avoiding my dog and it didnt break.im planing on getting a mnovak explorer in replacement for my burnt up futaba mc330cr,do you guys know if its any good?

[pudder]

Good to hear people having fun. I get my blue noseplate tomorrow. :D I also get to run with matched 2000's.

-mike

[Poolboy51]

You can e-mail Duratrax and a guy who works there.. Jeff Noffsinger... said he had some contacts at Tower and he credited the purchase to my dads credit card, so technicly, they were free!:cool: great service!:cool: :D


Two problems:
. Servo doesn't turn as far as it used to.
. the pinion came off, I attempted to fix it , and now everything amkes high pitched whizz.



I'm bidding on a Cyclone C2 on ebay fer $100 right now. and wanna get a stock or hot mod fer it. I'm gonna get some aluminum too.:cool: :D

[ameittunen]

i was driving at my friends house and i went off a jumps a couple of times. I got no more than a foot of air! It rolled forward (or also called a front flip) And i broke the front body mount and the chassis, and bent part of the servo saver, and i also found a hairline fracture on the blukhead where the swingarm pin goes into! I dont really care because i cant drive it at my house because all of the snow is melting and there is water all over and it is still to cold out for me.

[pudder]

Damn TC slammed me into a barrier, snapped steering arm knuckle and I CA'd it and won the b-main, it went great, I had to sit out my first 2 races though. I ordered some parts too.

-mike

[jdm3849]

ameittunen, you are not alone,tonight i was driving my evader and i got some air off of a root of a tree and when i landec the chassis snapped right where it connects to the back plate, someone by the name of rustler dude will come in and post a pic of my jaked up car because i broke it at his house and i dont have a digi camera but he does

[pudder]

You know what is a good plan, ordering extra parts from DuraTrax, just dont order multiple parts at once. One guy said he ordered extra chassis, stuff like that. :cool: ;)

-mike

[pudder]

Here is something of my own on the body I race with...

-mike

[evaderstrules]

why did you cover up the eagle
all you have to do is call duratrax and tell them you broke something every week and boom extra parts

[pudder]

I covered up the eagle because it is cheesey and I wanted a sticker there, I like the sticker better. :)

-mike

[Poolboy51]

Do they hand those out @ your local Mcdonald's or something? I want one of those:D

[pudder]

How come the newest posts arent showing up for me. :mad:

-mike

[pudder]

Okay, now the posts show up.

A guy came up from ND and had a roll of McDonald's stickers his friend that owrks at McDonalds gave him. He gave me like 100 of those things, so I have lots. If you want some I could spare like 5 or so. :D

-mike

[Poolboy51]

LUCKY! I wish I worked at Mcdonald's like TA03 DriveHard!:mad: j/k:D ;) :p

[pudder]

I don't. :p

I fixed a guys buggy that he was selling and he gave me a Mc Donalds burger.

-mike

[evaderstrules]

will ssomeone tell me if this is a good setup
rpm claws rims
pro-line speed hawgs tires
novak super rooster speed control
speed gems 2 onyx 14 turn double
duratrax 2400

[rustlerdude]

here's jdm3849's car is pretty much junk now

[Cheb44]

thats scary I just got an Evader because it seemed to be a good deal and I just moved to North Dakota and we have a lot of indoor racing but anyway I have had this thing 2 days and its already broke :mad:

well maybe its because I am driving it like my nitro trucks anyway how long does it normally take Duratrax to send there replacement parts??

[jdm3849]

7 buisness days if itsa in stock you live right nextdoor to me so its the same

[Cheb44]

cool thanks :)

[Poolboy51]

I get my parts in about 5-7 days:D

[2nd Gear]

Originally posted by rustlerdude
here's jdm3849's car is pretty much junk now

Hey if it is junk ILL take it!Ill send my address and hey Id give junk yard prices $50(complete):D

[ameittunen]

I ownder how long the new parts i get will last? Maybe 1 run teh way the others broke, If you have not already heard, I snapped my chassis in half, broke part of the bulkhead, and wrecked the servo saver and finally the front body mount! I was jumping my car at my friends house and it was being nose heavy, i mean it was doing front flips. So when it was upside down, I went to pick it up and thenb i noticed the body mounts are broken and i took of the body to see how extensive the damage was and i was about to put the body back on when i noticed that the chassis was almost broke into two! After the incident i realized i wasnt getting enough traction on the jump and figureeed out that i forgot to adjust the slipper so it was perfect for the jump! When i was at homw, i was taking off the front bumper cuz everybody was breaking bulkheads so i figured i would check it out and i was about to put it back on when i noticed a little crack where the hinge pin goes that connects the bulkhead to the swing! I will order the new parts from the online order form today.

[offroader]

Still waiting for my parts...got an email today saying the expect the back ordered parts in this week...we'll see!! :mad: :mad:

[offroader]

Front Bulkhead
Front Brace
Front Body Mount
Front Hub Carrier Set
Front Bumper

all the parts that broke :mad: :mad:

[evaderstrules]

hey all what parts have you broken and how did you break them?

[Poolboy51]

I got my servo brace, bulkhead, and shocktower pretty fast. I musta got lucky!:cool:

[offroader]

Hey guys, just wondering if anyone has put a different motor in their Evader...if so which one...and why?

[2nd Gear]

I had put a P2K2 pro in mine-Stock class of racing.LOVED IT!:cool:

[pudder]

Well I won my b-main, I'm sure I already said. Got damnslammed at practice by TC's and broke right steering knuckle arm. No biggie.

I have a Trinity P2k 2 in it and a 22? tooth pinion, course I race with foam tires, I also don't use my slipper.

-mike

[ameittunen]

i have a speed gems 19t double in mine, man is that fast! But now as fast as jdm's is though, i think. I have a 21 tooth pinion in that too.

[pudder]

I found the stock motor was way undergeared, I geared it up to 25 tooth! It was still fine and I lasted my 5 mins with a 1500!

I just hope my mother gets my part in today, though it would be quite amuzing to race my Outrage with all my good gear in it. :D

-mike

[offroader]

I just won an Auction on Ebay for a bunch of Evader stuff.

Here's what I got...

- Yellow Body

- Front suspension (shock tower, suspension arms, bulkhead, turnbuckles, steering blocks and linkage)

- Rear suspension (shock tower, suspension arms, gearbox w/ internals, universal axles, slipper clutch, rear chassis plate, motor guard, turnbuckles)

-Battery strap, bag with many extra screws, bearings, etc.

Also included new in packages are

- Front suspension arms
- Front bulkhead
- Front shock tower

My winning bid was $53.

Paul

[Poolboy51]

I saw that too. I didn't think it was worth it, though.

[offroader]

Oh well...I bet I get these parts before I get the ones I ordered from Duratrax :)

[pudder]

That sounds like a good buy, there is most of another truck there.

-mike

[jdm3849]

kinda late, i have a 17 turn with a 7-cell and 19/88 oh yea, its FAST! i recently put that motor into my rustler cause it dosnt break!

[offroader]

When you are replacing the front bulk head is the "bulkhead/chassis hinge pin" suppose to just slide out after you remove the 3mm set screw from the under side of the bulkhead or is there a trick to getting it out?

Thanks

[CoryL]

Hello, I'm looking for some off road hop up ideas. I saw lots of carpet stuff and not alot of dirtstuff. So far my truck has Losi yellow rear springs and a Reedy MVP motor all the rest is stock. My batteries are all used. I have one of each 2000, 1700, 1500 and a radio shack. do any of you do the off road thing? I'm getting back into racing after along vacation 3 years. and I'd like to be competative. any set up tips would be apreciated. T/Y Cory

[rcjeff]

Are these strong trucks? Last night and today ive been reading the whole forum because i want one but now that every is breaking everything, im not sure about it.

[pudder]

So I'm taking it you have an Evader?

Cory, just get the parts guy at your track to order Evader upgrades, I get mine for about 5$ taxes in, those are Canadian dollars. There will be more carpet stuff now because it is indoor season, except where there is no snow. I have a bunch of blue stuff, blue motor gaurd, blue skidplate and blue batt strap, and I am going to be getting blue ballcups and blue steering soon.

What do yo umean offroad and carpet stuff? All the difference yo uneed for offroad is tires and springs/oil, gearing.

Offroader, I haven't taken out that hingepin, but all the other ones I have taken out need a little tapping out, I use a small screwdriver then usually grab the rest with pliers and yank it out.

Today at racing, I had a lot of fun. There wasn't many people in the truck class so they put us all in one heat, and I usually got sec. last, third, around there. What didn't help me was that my idler gear is missing a tooth.

-mike

[pudder]

Originally posted by rcjeff
Are these strong trucks? Last night and today ive been reading the whole forum because i want one but now that every is breaking everything, im not sure about it.

I haven't broken much, and if I have for a good reason.

-mike

[rcjeff]

Well from what ive read, it sounds like ppl are breaking stuff faster than hell

[pudder]

The Evader is a good truck and all, but if I had the choice again, I would probably have gotten a T3. It is racier, and less flexible and has better parts support, don't get me wrong, I am not putting the Evader down, I am just saying the T3 is a better racetruck.

-mike

[DanzST]

Just like with anything that is new, there are bugs that need "worked out." I broke the front bulkhead and the front suspension arm from minor encounters. I still think the truck has potential and I continue to be happy with mine. They are supposoed to be coming out with the whole line of typical upgrades in the future. I just think Duratrax didn't anticipate the problems they are encountering. They are doing an "o.k." job of playing catch up to meet our demands. I think it will all smooth out in the future as far as parts support is concerned. I would still recommend this truck for the stuff it does come with stock.

Dan

[rcjeff]

It is very cheap and looks nice but i hate waiting for parts.

[Poolboy51]

Yeah. Just buy it now and you'll be able to race and they'll probably have all the hop-ups and bugs worked out in a few months. You can order parts direct from Duratarx for free of their website (http://www.duratrax.com) and they usually arrive in a week(Unless the part is out of stock:rolleyes: ). I just think Duratrax didn't expect to sell so many of these (I don't know why, though)

[pudder]

Or he could buy mine with some hop-ups. :D

n1tr0p1ec0@aol.com
pleco_racing@hotmail.com

[CoryL]

Yes, I have an evader. I used to race a little but I always got whooped on by the big money machines. I'm on a budget, thats why I got an evader. For the most part my truck is holding up ok. I did break the rear chassis plate and the rear trans. brace. You get what you pay for. With all those cool features like ball bearings,slipper, good shocks, etc they had to cut costs somewhere. I still enjoy my truck.

Does any one know the internal trans. ratio (2.40, 2.60, etc) of an Evader?
Also what is a good final ratio?
So much has changed since I last raced.

[Poolboy51]

lol. Pudder. I'm glad to see your optimistic about your evader. I might sell my evader, not because I have dreams that I win the A-main with a Losi or B3, but because the offroad terrain around my house is a bit to rough for an evader, or any stadium truck at that!

[pudder]

What are you saying? Everything is Team Ass. around here, much better parts support.

-mike

[Poolboy51]

Originally posted by Poolboy51
lol. Pudder. I'm glad to see your optimistic about your evader.
I was being sarcastic.:rolleyes: If that's not what you were talking about I'm sorry. If you were talking about the a-main dreams, etc. I wasn't trying to put Losi, AE or you down. I've just heard people buy AE's and Losi's because they think they'll be automatically put in the A-main or a Losi car will make them race better or something.:rolleyes: Anyways, you can buy a AE car or whatever you want. It'd just be a real shame.:(

[DanzST]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but when you get right down to it, these vehicles are all the same. You have a motor, battery, chassis, etc., in all the vehicles. Yes, durability is an issue, but we've covered that, the parts support will come around. I agree with Poolboy51, Duratrax just wasn't prepared. I think that it really boils down to who is at the controls. Mike, if you think you need to sell your Evader to get a "money machine" to be like everyone else, I think your selling yourself short. From what I've read in here about your racing, you don't do too bad with what you have. Maybe your just being outdriven, just food for thought. Maybe you ought to stick to what you have and show the other people you race, it's not the car, it's the driver, it has to be. Who cares if everything where you are is Team Assoc.? Why be like everyone else? That is SO boring. I personally think it is funny as hell when you write in here how you whopped on some guy/ girl with a truck that they sunk $500 into because they thought it would help them win. Just some thoughts, take it or leave it.

Dan

[pudder]

Oh, no I don't think stuff like that, I don't know firsure if I will sell it. I still have my other DuraTrax truck. I also want to try different trucks, I still have many years to go in this hobby, and well, why not experiment?

-mike

[DanzST]

See I agree with Poolboy51. I guess we were writing at the same time. I too, think it would be a shame.

[jdm3849]

ok, about seven days ago i ordered a new chassis off the internet from duratrax because i broke mine. i want to know if they e-mail you before they send it out because i havnt been e-mailed yet. i said that i didnt have the esc serial number so i dunno whats going on

[Poolboy51]

That's kinda the point I was trying to make (I probably didn't do it to good though:rolleyes: ). Some guy shook his head when I told him I wanted to race my Evader. He said they were ok in the novice but anything above that I would be toast. Wait till I come back! decked out in aluminum, my Tekin esc, MUHAHAHAHAHA!:D

[pudder]

I said my esc was in service before and they still sent out. I orderd some more parts last week and then they never emailed me, but i had the esc serial so I will say if it comes in.

-mike

[Poolboy51]

I guess me and Danzst were writing at the same time. I was agreeing with him.

Pudder-
You can try out new trucks. that'd be great! I just think it would be a waist of time/money/etc. to just sell it and buy another stadium truck. Your winning all those races! Just doesn't make sense why you would want to sell it.

Jdm-
They don't send you an e-mail, o when I got my parts it didn't get to me for some unknown reason.

[CoryL]

What all companies make hop ups for my truck?
You all talk about hop ups where ya getting them?
What about my gear ratio question?

pudder, I'm not looking to buy another truck. I just bought a used Losi xx. I'm hoping to race both. waiting for it to come in the mail.:rolleyes:

[Poolboy51]

Heres a list of hop-ups that are made for the Evader (that I know of):
Duratrax


That's the only hop-up maker currently for the duratrax Evader:mad: but I imagine that more companies will jump on the bandwagon. You can buy them @ Towerhobbies (http://www.towerhobbies.com) but you'll probably get them faster if you just order them through your LHS.

[offroader]

I ordered my replacement parts through Duratrax's website alittle over 2 weeks ago(maybe more) and I still haven't recieved them. When I emailed them they said they were do this week and would send them when they got them. I ordered the same parts through my LHS(so that I would have extra) last Sunday and recieved all the parts on Thursday...how can my LHS get the parts in less then a week but when I order my replacement parts they don't have them in stock and I have to wait so long?!?


Paul

[rcjeff]

Wouldnt it be a little easy for people to ripp off dtrx? Just say that the parts break?

[Poolboy51]

I think they have a limit per week or something

[rcjeff]

Oh, i was gonna say.....

I wish there were race tracks near me....

Well im deciding on trucks, even though i wont get one for a while. I want a Evader but everyone is talking about it breaking so much so that set me crooked.

T3's look good but damn, the reason i want electric is its cheap. By the time you get everything your talking about $350-$400.

With the evader and charger and batt's, your talking about $240 (Evader rtr, Power maxx 2400 batts, and a dtrx charger.)

[pudder]

Poolboy-There is another company that makes parts that fit the Evader, RPM, they arefor Losi though, if you could get XXT stuff then you'd be fine, I just order my upgrades at my track and usually he them in about a week.

Jeff-These are great trucks, don't worry about other things. I am selling my Evader, probably, if anyone gives me an offer, it is in buy sell trade forum incase you want to look, though it is just a rolling chassis and will need esc and radio, I could throw in a Traxxas Stinger.

-mike

[Poolboy51]

RPM does make WHEELS, but that's all. The wheels are made for the losi, so technicaly, they really DON'T make hop-ups especially for the evader, but you can use them.

[pudder]

That is what I meant.

I think I am going to keep my Evader, and just hop it up. :)

-mike

[Poolboy51]

I was thinking the same thing you were thinking a few months ago. I figured I should sleep on it before I sold it, and then they came out with the aluminum parts, so I'm gonna keep it! Sounds great Pudder.:cool:

[rcjeff]

Is the stock 20t a single, double, triple, or quad?

[pudder]

I threw out my label, but maybe the decal on my truck says...

20 turn single wound. I didn't like this motor all that much. I used it for racing for about 2-3 weeks and won a few races, but I really had to gear high for some reason. My P2k 2 is much better, even the old Integy Matrix is.

-mike

[Fliquer]

To anyone who has put a new stock motor on their Evader:

What motor should I replace the old one with?
What gears should i buy to get the best out of the new motor?
Will I need to upgrade the esc?
Anything else i should do?

I've broken only a couple parts on my Evader (few parts, broken many times). Mainly the front brace and front buckle (that ones a ***** to reinstall). I filled out the duratrax order form and got back the parts i needed by the end of the week. I told them the esc serial # (its on the esc DUH). I also went ahead and ordered some parts that werent even broken, in anticipation of breaking them. I live in North Carolina so its not like I live right next to duratrax (in illinois). I wonder why everyone else is not getting their parts...

[pudder]

Even in everyone's delay, I still got service in regular time. The ESC is fine, and will be fine unless you have a lower mod motor.

I would reccomend the Trinity P2k 2 stock motor for your Evader. I have one, and it has a really nice balance of torque and speed. I found the truck to be undergeared so go out and buy a selection of pinions. Right now I have from 20 to 24, and for offroad I will probably get 15-19. I would say maybe 21, 20, or 19, may aswell buy all of those 3 so you have a selection, I think it comes with a 20 tooth stock though. I ran outside for fun the other day with a 22 tooth on my p2k 2 and it was awsome.

BTW: T3 idler will fit in your Evader, just need to dril out the hole for its bearings, a guy at my track told me this. Just take the drillbit, and match it up to the Evader one, and then use that bit. :)

-mike

[Poolboy51]

which gear is the idler gear?:confused:

[2nd Gear]

I wouldnt drill it out.Just get the 3/16 x 3/8 bearings for it it works with the stock idler shaft.BUT you arent solving the problem.The stock topshaft isnt machined as nice as the assoc. topshaft.The million dollar question is what size bearing to use for this.:rolleyes:

[pudder]

Poolboy51-the idler is the middle gear in the gearbox.

2nd Gear-why spend money on new bearings, when you can just drill it out which will be free and takes about 2 mins.

-mike

[pudder]

My birthday is tomorrow, so just wanted to share some cake with you, it is from last year. :D :) ;) :cool: :p

-mike

[CoryL]

pudder,
Happy birthday.

I am running a Ready MVP which I am told it ryns higher RPM's then the P2K2. If I go with the a smaller pinion Like a 21 instead of a 22 will that increase my torq?

Thanks,
Cory

[jdm3849]

yes it will,i have an mvp too but it is not as good as a p2k in the evader because it doesnt have much torque

[pudder]

It might, doubt really noticeable though. Like I said, get a selection of them from like 18-23 or something.

Thanks for the birthday welcome.

-mike

[rcjeff]

What would be a good moter to throw in?

Can you tell me about pinions?
Smaller pinion, more accel, bigger pinion, more speed right?

Whats a good pinion/motor combo that will give a good accel and a good top speed?



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[pudder]

Jeff-read like the last 10 or so posts, they are on that topic.

I have for carpet racing, P2k 2 motor (excellent choice) the stock spur, and a 22 pinion. For offroad I would go down a tooth or two. Now I will be saying this about 5 times now, it is best to get a selection of pinions to choose from and just fiddle around with settings.

-mike

[2nd Gear]

With a P2K2 you should not go down a tooth or 2 for offroad.That is the combo I ran on my local track.Heck I could even go up to 24 tooth pinion.It depends on if you run good batts or not.Like pudder said get an asortment of pinions to help you find out the good set up where your racing.If your not racing your not getting full enjoyment from your vehicle.:p

[pudder]

Especially the Evader, it is a great race vehicle, though I have yet to try my hand at offroad, didn't have a truck for it last year.

-mike

[2nd Gear]

washtenaw rc raceway (http://www.rcpimp.com/video/washfeb23sta.rm) This is the track I run on but this is a A main so their isnt any evaders in there.It is a big video but it is cool for me to watch.we only have one more week of racing then she comes down.:mad: :(

[pudder]

Why is your track coming down? In the summer, we have offroad outdoor track, but since there is snow nothing outdoor in winter.

-mike

[2nd Gear]

Well aorund here in the metro detroit area onroad rules the summer.I do have a offroad track (indoors)to go to and i will be attending it but it will be time for onroad in a month or so.:confused:

[DanzST]

2nd Gear-
what car do you run for onroad racing? I'm getting an HPI Sport 2 in a couple days to try my hand at onroad racing this spring.

Dan

[pudder]

I fitted a Corvette body on my Evader, looks cool beans, except the rear windshield and roof are intented because the body posts are so low.

I also got a cool thing from Canadian Tire, kinda like a Menards store in the states. Anyways it has about a bagilion different things on it, like two top compartments where I put motors, connectors, body clips, servo arms, and some spare parts, a removeable parts tray that goes on the front with a clip thing, I keep motors and wire and all kinds of stuff, not ot mention my screws. Then there is two large bins, and I can keep lots of things in it like chargers, batts, radios, motor spray, paper towels. And on each bin top, there is a removable tray where I keep shock oil, screwdrivers and probably more stuff.

-mike

[2nd Gear]

Originally posted by DanzST
2nd Gear-
what car do you run for onroad racing? I'm getting an HPI Sport 2 in a couple days to try my hand at onroad racing this spring.

Dan I have a older hpi rally I use onroad with touring shocks.And a Nitro OB4.;)

[rcjeff]

Well ill get mine in may probably (my b-day)

Do you think the boiling problem will be fixed by may?

[pudder]

I believe some while back, someone replied about that and said the defective stuff should be fixed by now. :)

I haven't had a problem and I got mine in December.

-mike

[pudder]

Could check DuraTrax's site too or email them.

-mike

[Poolboy51]

Got my Tekin G-10 Pro esc today. Gonna put it in my Evader this weekend. After my auction (http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1708301113&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1015043537&indexURL=0&rd=1) ends I'm gonna get a P-94. Not sure which one yet though. Here I come 4-foot jump!:D :eek: :cool: :D

[Poolboy51]

The boiling problem should be done with. It seems like some parts turn out more un-breakable than others. I beleive they fixed it. I normally e-mail jnoff@duratrax.com about questions like this.

[Poolboy51]

Guess I don't know how to post a e-mail address.:rolleyes: :mad:

[pudder]

There you go to the LHS! J/K It should go fine as long as you land it fine. :)

Here I go tomorrow race weekend!

-mike

[2nd Gear]

Originally posted by Poolboy51
Got my Tekin G-10 Pro esc today. Gonna put it in my Evader this weekend. After my auction (http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1708301113&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1015043537&indexURL=0&rd=1) ends I'm gonna get a P-94. Not sure which one yet though. Here I come 4-foot jump!:D :eek: :cool: :D

Sounds more like a 10 foot fall to me!LOL:D :eek: :(

[Poolboy51]

lol. Don't you remember? We get free parts!!!!!!!!!:cool: :D I'm probably gonna get aluminum after I jump.:cool:

[pudder]

Oops, my bad. I want to see how my Evader will hold up offroad. :)

It is prettymuch ready for racing tomorrow. I will either be running a red Corvette body, blue Evader body or an old beater Traxxas body which I usually use. :) Which one should I enter in the concours. :D I think I want to go for the crappiest body there! :D So I will probably put the Traxxas one in. :) Wish me luck in getting last, too bad there isn't a prize for it.

-mike

[Poolboy51]

lol. buy a TRX Nitro Sport and paint white normal model spray paint (non-lexan) on the outside and then say it looks "rustic" when it starts chipping off like my friend. I have to say it's practically the ugliest body I've ever seen in my life:D :) I'll laugh if you don't lose. show us the losing body.:D

[jdm3849]

Originally posted by Poolboy51
lol. Don't you remember? We get free parts!!!!!!!!!:cool: :D I'm probably gonna get aluminum after I jump.:cool:


i ordered my blue aluminum braces back in NOVEMBER!

[ameittunen]

i am finally going to get my parts the beginning of this week.

[nascarfreak88]

ya my friend is going to get his truck next week, about time!!!, he ordered it back in late dec!!!

[Poolboy51]

he should have bought one off e-bay. I got mine for $180 all together (tax,S&H, etc.) which is a bit worse than Tower but I got it within a week of bidding (I just used BUY IT NOW). theres really cool shop on there called timshobbies that sells em' for CHEAP!:eek:

[nascarfreak88]

ya i know......

[pudder]

Wooh! Racing was great. I forgot my radio at home, so I had to sit out first race and wait for mother to bring it, and then I raced, I also race tomorrow because it is a weekend long thing. I won some good 12 guage wire, and a 30$ gift certificate for Kimborough stuff. :D I also never broke anything and my truck ran strong.

-mike