Duratrax Evader ST Forum v1.0

[yoyou13]

It faces towards the back of the truck. Towards the servo.

[topkart23]

thanks.

i put it back togeather last night the correct way and ran it today :p i only ran 3 packs, since i had to cut the grass and i ran a tank thourough my traxxas n sport.

of course, i couldnt make it through the day not breaking anything :( i pulled the ball stud out of the rear bulk head ripping out the threads. i ended up just moving the stud into the top hole

[hambone]

Plastic - well I don't know what happened to the plastic but I think the newer trucks are better! I bout two about four months ago, and we (me and My son) broke lots of stuff front brace 3 times, front body mount three times two front bulkheads etc...

My youngest just bought his truck about two weeks ago, and got a purple one which they didn't have when I bought mine.

he hasn't broke a darn thing. yes he get into wrecks with us, hits fence, just like us. his seesm to be more durable. course it is warmer now too!

for what its worth.

[navspecwar]

whats the best aluminum upgrade? front brace?

[jdm3849]

if youve been breaking alot of front end peices then yes,its also the cheepest too.

[navspecwar]

i've only broken the servo horn, but everyone else has been breakin stuff on the front end, so that aounds like the best one. and here's why its necessary:

[jdm3849]

well your pretty lucky cause so far i have broken 17 parts,i barley drove it too,i would get the front brace just for the heck of it,but you could also get heatsink motor mount of light slipper

[navspecwar]

cr@p, i cant post it. anyway, go to the "What kinda bodies should i get" thread. you'll know it when you see it.

[hambone]

I would think front brace, we've broken three of them so far.
It the weakest part in my opinion on the front of the truck.

it would look the coolest too, Cool is GOOD!

[pudder]

yoyou13-that truck looks like mine, besides mine is all smashed up, and I have a metal battery holdown post.

-mike

[jdm3849]

Originally posted by hambone
I would think front brace, we've broken three of them so far.
It the weakest part in my opinion on the front of the truck.

it would look the coolest too, Cool is GOOD!

i think your thinking that aluminum piece is the one that goes over the servo,but its actually the peice that comes with the bulkhead,it connects the two front hinge pins,it goes inbetween the bumper and bulkhead.

[gabesnmt]

do they make a heavy duty piece that goes over the servo?

[sycotikskir]

Hey I was wondering whata good motor would be for my evader...I was thinking the p2k2. What is involved in switching motors??

[jdm3849]

not yet at least.

[jdm3849]

taking screws out and chaningint the pinion also,if the motor is under 17 turns you will need a new esc,ya that p2k2 is a really good motor but if you want a little less speed and more torque a p2k will do,if i were you i would get a chameleon 2 19 turn,it has a good combination of torque speed and run time

[sycotikskir]

thank you very much for the help. Thats just what I wnated to know

[navspecwar]

i heard that the evader ESC was 20T+. you sure its 17+?

[Aluma]

so when the windtunnel racing hopups gonna be available?

two weeks ago there was a post about it... but there's nothing on the site yet. :P

[jdm3849]

Originally posted by navspecwar
i heard that the evader ESC was 20T+. you sure its 17+?

the reccomended limit on the esc is 20, i ran it with a speed gems sappphire geared 19/88 and it got only slightly warm so it works good with that motor and anything above.

[sycotikskir]

I am ordering my Chameleon 2 19 turn motor tonite and I as wondering how i should figure out how to gear it or if I should just buy a couple different sizes. Any suggestions???

[jdm3849]

i think you will be happy with that motor, i would say get a 19 tooth pinion,btw it is 48 pitch,Robinson racing makes really quiet obsolete pinions

[sycotikskir]

ok I just wanna make sure I have everything straight... If I buy the Chameleon 2 with s 19 tooth pinion I will be able to use it with my other wise stock Evader???

[jdm3849]

Yes sir,also what batteries do you have? just curious

[Aluma]

whats a good size pinion for a MVP motor? how bout a P2k?

given the stock spur that is.... :D

[navspecwar]

i think ill wait till i get my futaba 330CR till i use my sapphire
;)

[pudder]

Aluma- I know about 20-24 would be good for a P2k. Be sure to get a selection of Robinson Racing steel pinions. They last forever.

The stock ESC has a 17 turn limit. I just fried another a week or so ago. :mad:

To make that "piece that goes over the servo", which is called the "servo brace" stronger, you can just make one out of aluminum and put it under the stock one, or get posts so you wouldnt have to use the stock one also. I broke the nub off mine, so I took a piece of aluminum, cut it to shape, drilled holes, and made a cut for the "nub" or mount of the battery brace, bent it erect, made a hole in it for the body clip, and put it on.

This may sound complicated, but well it works much much better and won't break.

-mike

[navspecwar]

man, there is somethin seriously wrong with my evader. its makin a funny clickin sound like the sounds it makes when you take up the play in the wheels (caused by the dogbones). it does that when im runnin it, even when the rear tires are off the ground. also, the slipper clutch will NOT tighten. i have it so tight to where the nut wont turn anymore, yet it wont grab and accelerate, even on concrete. btw, i just rebuilt the diff, no problems there (that was my first suspicion for the clickin sound). any ideas? im stuck AGAIN until i can get this gal-dern POS to work again:(

[sycotikskir]

i have three tower hobbies sport 1500 packs

[navspecwar]

fixed - thanks jdm3849

[theboy77]

My slipper clutch has the same problem.How did you fix it? Also,my transmission makes that light grinding sound which turns to a whine at high speeds.Anyone?

[pudder]

Take apart your gearbox and look at the gears for wear and tear.

-mike

[navspecwar]

yea, first thing is take apart the gearbox and check for broken stuff. then, put it back together (its a no-brainer, i know, but some people...), and make sure everything is adjusted properly. jdm told me this (the manual is a little vague here) - tighten the diff to where the hex wrench wont turn anymore. then back it off about 1/8 turn. then set your slipper clutch according to your track surface. anyway, i too have a question: for the most part, my slipper clutch works. however, when i hit a small bump (like a whoops section on an MX track), i can hear the diff slipping a little bit. is this ok, or do i need to loosen the slipper clutch a little more?

[offroader]

Hey guys...how are things in the Evader world? I just wanted to update you guys on how I'm making out since selling my Evader. I decided after all the problems I had with my Evader (broken parts and bad customer service) i would invest the extra money and purchase myself an E-Maxx. Well I took my new E-Maxx out earlier this afternoon and all I can say is WOW, this thing is a beast, I absolutely love it!! It is extremely fast and if it's not fast enough for you all you have to do is throw it in 2nd gear and it takes off. Going over jumps is a joke, it handles them so smoothly you don't even realize you hit one!

My faith in R/C has been restored, I wish I would have purchased this one to begin with!

I guess it's true what they say...you get what you pay for!

Paul

[sycotikskir]

I had been having a horrible time with the customer service @ Duratrax and then I decided I would send one more email to them and if they didn't do anything then I would sell my truck and get a different brand. Well I sent them an email and withing half an hour I received a reply. That was a thursday nite. and monday morning I had my parts. Since then I ahve been driving my evader a lot and have been having a great time with it. Nothing has broken yet.

[quadna71]

hi everyone!
i'm new to the board - just finished reading all (!!!) the posts to this thread over the past few days...i've learned alot from all of you. i've learned how to tighten up my ball diff (it was slipping badly), adjust my rear camber, and how to tune the esc. thanks to all that posted those comments in this thread.
my problem at this point is pulling apart my oem motor. the capacitors are soldered to the can - what do i do? should i just heat it up, suck up the solder, then resolder it after i'm done cleaning the insides? or can i configure the capacitors differently to make it easier to get at the insides in the future. i would use the power shot spray but i'm stationed overseas and nobody will ship it due to it's flammable properties. thus i have to pull apart all the time to clean.
this is my first new truck - the only other one i've had being an old RC10ce that i bought off of ebay a month ago. after getting used to driving that one for awhile i went out and bought my new evader - i love it!. haven't broken any of the commonly broken (knock on wood) front end parts yet either...and that's with a few highspeed head on collisions too. maybe people were right with thinking that the later productions had better plastic. also helps that it's 95 degrees outside everyday here in honduras.
anyways, back to my problem - any ideas? even a link to a site that could school me on the basics of the capacitor would be helpful. from what i've gathered (1) the capacitor is matched to your esc...and (2) it is there to absorb so to speak the peaks and lulls in the voltage going to the motor at any given time. again, bare with me since i am not very good with electronics.
my new trinity p2k2 pro stock motor and new deans connectors should be here any day now - next is different gearing. i'm leaning towards robinson's metal ones. maybe 88 for the spur and 18 or 19 (???) for the pinion. what do you think? yeah, i know - lots of questions for a first time post. only way to learn though, right? at least i read all the posts ahead of time - and trust me, that took awhile!!! especially here in honduras on a military connection :mad:
on another note - just wanted you minnesota guys (and gals) to know that i feel for you with all the weather stuff. born in the cities and was raised up 169 in hill city (just south of grand rapids and just north of quadna mountain resort - hence the name). stay cool and i'll talk at you later! thanks for any and all input and i look forwards to learning with all of you. later...

[quadna71]

oh yeah, one more thing...
when i do get my new motor, what is recommended for breaking it in? i heard running it off of two D cells until the batteries are dead is a good thing...what do you all think of that? thanks for any of the ideas.

p.s. the stock tires are decent in the dirt but i ran it through about 4 batteries (2400's - $34.99 for two at sheldon's hobbies.com woohhoooo) on the pavement before i realized that i had just built myself a set of slicks! :mad: now i have another set of knobbies on order - plus new rims - i'm putting the street hawgs from my rc10ce on the original rims for playing in the parking lots from now on.

[sycotikskir]

Well guys I found out that this truck is not good for getting huge air. I snapped my chassis in 2 today. I was jumping and landing on a hill and I went a lil nose up on the landing and snapped my chassis in half. It snapped right at the back of the battery. It looked worse than it is tho. I only have to replace the chassis.

[theboy77]

I set my toe-in for the front about 2 degees in today and gained 1-2 mph.Just tought I'd pass that along to my fellow novices.Also,a little motor cleaner spray on the slipper clutch gave it alot more grip to variate the setting.Now, a question. Does anyone know where to find any track bulding basics? Thanks.

[theboy77]

Does anyone have the specs for the Sprint ESC?:confused:

[jdm3849]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAMN7&P=7

i had run a 17 turn for a month with no problems so dont listen to them when they say 20 turn limit

[pudder]

Quadna71- If you are buying the Pro version of the P2k 2, you don't have to break it in. Here is how I have seen people do it:

Put comm drops on the comm.
Bushing lube on the bushings
Run down a 3 cell batt.

If you want, true the comm after. If you don't know what truing the comm is, it is taking off the worn metal in a lathe, getting a better flow going.

For offroad with a p2k 2, run a 88 spur with anywhere from 19-22 pinions, anyways that was what I found out. For onroad, you will want something like 23 pinion.

One thing I have to say is the blue hopups look killer on the Evader.

Offroader- I would like an Emaxx too, but I am staying in racetrucks for now. I wish there was an indoor emaxx class here.

-mike

[quadna71]

pudder,
thanks for the advice. i'll try the three steps you had listed (yeah, it is the p2k2 pro) but i'll have to skip the lathework. nothing like that around here. i'll have to stick with the factory gears for now too - i'm just getting around to ordering a few new sets in a day or so. i agree with you with the blue stuff. i put only the blue stickers on the green (can't help that part) body and just ordered blue wheels, a blue front bumper and blue motor guard. i think i may slowly start swapping out for the aluminum stuff. maybe one piece a month (that stuff's pricey!). i'll let you know how the motor runs...oh, and jdm3849 it was nice chatting on aol. if anyone's interested - my aol handle is quadna1

oh yeah, anyone have any ideas what i could use for a motor spray? it would have to be something that was nonflammable in order for me to get it shipped down to here :(
later...

[pudder]

The stock gearing will be okay for the P2k 2 Pro. If you look on the packaging, the Pro version says no break in needed because it was done before the Dyno, and then the comm trued.

All you have to do is slap it in your truck, though I found that the stock gearing was not enough for my liking. I ran a 25 pinion and stock spur for a while in carpet racing, and the tires were only the size of regualr road tires for trucks.

Pick up some Robinson Racing steel pinions, they will last forever.

-mike

[quadna71]

hi everyone,
yeah, me again. just wanted to post that i got my p2k2 pro in the mail today. all i can say is - woooohoooooo. i didn't realize electric cars could be so fast. it's hard to control at top speed on the asphalt. i'm seriously impressed! got it connected up with the deans connectors too. they were a pain in the ass for me to solder on but will be worth it in the end. my robinson's racing (thanks pudder) pinions will be here in a week or so and then i can really get down to dialing it in. just thought i'd boast a little - later...:p :p :p

now if i could only get my hands on a used lathe somewhere so i could keep it running like this...hmmm...... :rolleyes:

[jdm3849]

If you think that 27 turn is fast,you should drive my friends t3 with a 10 turn p-94,he also puts that in a clod. Its like driving a viper downhill on blackice!!

[navspecwar]

hmmm. viper..downhill..blackice. count me in:p

[guver]

Greetings Evader fans

Thanks to all you experienced r/c people for your help
I figured out why my diff kept slipping I think my slipper clutch was stuck since new and never did slip. (got it freed up and working good)

I figured out why my servo arm broke even when saver was backed off. It was stuck since new also (got it freed up too works good)

I guess my truck sat around and corroded some before I bought it. Oh well lots of fun, but still way too slow.

Time to build a track and upgrade to better motor and battery.

[quadna71]

me again,
this question is in regards to jdm3849's comment about his buddies T3. say i wanted to go faster - i mean much faster...are there any specific esc's i should shy away from? i've seen a ton mentioned for their positive points - but not many mentioned due to their negative aspects. i just want to be sure that whatever i get isn't going to give me problems down the road. i'll be picking up something soon to replace the oem sprint esc. it suffices, but i just want to rid myself of that irritating "reverse lag". so, i'm open to any thoughts you all might have on the subject (don't worry, i will go post this on the electric forum too - just want some fellow evst driver's perspectives). i guess while on the subject, i should ask about motor choices. i think i did a good job with the p2k2 pro, but anything with less turns is confusing to me. besides, i went with the trinity before due to a friend's recommendations. so let me know what your personal favorites are (and why) and i'll start checking them out. thanks :p

oh and pudder, i got a question for you. you said that there was no break in required for the p2k2 pro (which the directions confirmed) due to the fact that they break it in for you then turn the commutator. wouldn't turning the commutator require breaking it in again or is the whole concept of breaking in just to ensure the brushes smooth of to ride on the commutators in the first place? just trying to learn - thanks

p.s. still awaiting the arrival of my new tires, rims, pinions, and some other little stuff - man, i hate overseas shipping!!!!! :mad:

[quadna71]

have any of you tried to make your evst into something similar to a big truck? i'm curious as to what wheel/tire combo would fit the axles and not rub on the control arms. when i say big truck i'm meaning tires that are comparable to, say, stampedes, or thunderquakes...like that. anything that has 5" or more sized tires...have a great weekend - later...

[jdm3849]

I would stay away from the lrp ipc pro sport,my friend had it in his t3 with a ruby(16 turn) and it got extremely hot and would shut down,we used a 20 turn motor(came with t3) and the esc,s case melted partially. I am wondering if you want reverse? i would,and a good esc,but expensive is lrp pro reverse

[quadna71]

jdm3849,
yeah, i do want reverse since there is no racing down here. maybe i'll check into something that has reverse but is able to shut off that feature if and when i try my hand at racing.
i spent an hour or two on the net last night trying to find larger tires - best i could come up with were stampede tires. they use the 2.2" wheels also so there wouldn't be any modifications to make them fit. any other choices seem to require that i get different sized rims and/or hub adapters or even new axle stubs. the stampede tires are 4.75" diameter - 1.25" larger than the evst's oem tires. those combined with a pretty steep pinion may be fun - plus with all the rain we've been getting down here the grass is pretty tall and really slows down my evader in it's stock trim! i may order them tonight - but i want to find a new esc first and try to order that at the same time. hopefully i can find them both for sale at the site to save me shipping costs.
on another note, i baked my first steering servo last night - it started squealing and wouldn't go to the left. after disassembling it i saw that about three teeth had magically disappeared! so, in went the spare one that came with the radio that i ordered. i guess that i'll be looking into another one of those too. this time i'll try to find one that uses metal gears and has higher torque specs...don't want to be replacing that all the time. 'specially if i put on those larger tires from time to time :p
navspecwar, i have a question for you...that problem you had with the "clicking"??? what was the root of that one? i've been getting it intermittently. it comes out of nowhere, clicks for awhile, then just mysteriously goes away! i've disassembled the ball diff and gearbox (just for curiosity's sake) and didn't see anything wrong there. maybe i can get some pointers from jdm3849 since he seemed to be able to set you straight on that one (from what i could tell in your followup post). thanks.
talk to you all later...

[quadna71]

navspecwar,
disregard that last question - my idler gear just exploded! that explains where the clicking was coming from. it must have started after i put it together last time. well, time to shine up the truck and let it sit on the shelf until parts arrive :( wow, this stuff gets expensive in a hurry! later...

[navspecwar]

that s\_/cks, quadna:(. i figured out that the clicking sound that i got was little tiny rocks, not much bigger than a grain of sand that mysteriously appeared between the teeth of the spur gear. easily solved, but a pain nonetheless. anyway, what happened to the idler gear? did it just crack, or what? you got me worried.

[jdm3849]

all the teeth on the gear are smooth,he said that in the pede forum

[quadna71]

navspecwar,
the idler did "become one with the smoothness" but it was so chewed up at one spot that it is cracked - you can see the center of the gear where the shaft is! i don't think you have anything to worry about with your gear. maybe normal wear and tear and that's all. my problem may have been a bad combination of diff tension and slipper tension. not to mention that i rag it pretty hard somedays. some luck, eh? only a month into it and it's down for maintenance. jdm's egging me to get a stampede now. i have to admit, from what i hear they are some jumpin' machines! only problem is that if i order one of them it'll be here the same time as the the parts for my evst. hmm...can't justify that - not quite yet anyways. i'll let you know what happens when i get my parts in. as it stands right now i have three packages heading my way from tower. damn, i wish those people would cut me a deal on shipping! i'm not sure if this will work, but here goes nothing!

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid21/p81ba1f45cd466fa069bdce0fa74d0218/fdb418e3.jpg

cool, it did :p so, a word to the wise...sony's imagestation is great to use for posting pictures - free too! have a great memorial day everyone - later...

[TeamMishap]

I've read all thirty-three pages of this thread and still haven't come to a conclusion on what to ditch the POS 20T stock motor for.

I mostly just tool around the yard now but hope to race soon. What'd be the best choice for me considering my habits and not hurting battery consumption horribly.

BTW...aluminum front braces coming to Tower soon!!

[quadna71]

hey teammishap,
i'm just getting into this but the p2k2 pro is outstanding for an all around motor. it kicks ass over the factory photon! as far as less than 20 turned motors, i'd talk to some of the others for advice. keep in mind that if you go much lower than the 20 you'll start heating up the sprint esc. i think that some of the guys got it down as low as a 17 turn before it started getting pretty hot. good luck - later...

p.s. hey jdm3849, the hitech servo 645 is on order :p man, i'm going to be soooooo broke!!!

[quadna71]

hey teammishap,
i'm just getting into this but the p2k2 pro is outstanding for an all around motor. it kicks ass over the factory photon! as far as less than 20 turned motors, i'd talk to some of the others for advice. keep in mind that if you go much lower than the 20 you'll start heating up the sprint esc. i think that some of the guys got it down as low as a 17 turn before it started getting pretty hot. good luck - later...

p.s. hey jdm3849, the hitech servo 645 is on order :p man, i'm going to be soooooo broke!!!

[jdm3849]

oops,double post quadna71.
I have the aluminum front brace,it is kind of a rip off because it is so small,i thought it was going to be the piece over the bulkhead :-(
I wouldnt get the sapphire its mostly meant for monster trucks because of single-wind,a better motor would be the amethyst(sp)
i have used a 17 turn with the stock esc and it barely heated up so there is no problem with that unless you have high gearing.
for all around good time i would get a chameleon pro 2,it has good torque because of the p2k can. it will have good runtime because its 19 turn. some tracks also have 19turn spec classes so check that motor out.

edit: i said chameleon was 17 turn oops:D

[jdm3849]

quadna,did you order a new top piece that goes on the servo output gear so that it will fit the HITEC servo? because the stock one is meant for futaba

[quadna71]

hey jdm3849,
no, i didn't order any special pieces for the hi-tech servo. i was going on what the picture looked like and i thought it looked the same as the futaba i have now. i guess it's back to tower i go. do you think you could give me an idea where to look to get the piece you are talking about? i looked and didn't see what you meant and am a little confused. what you are saying is that the fluted surface of the servo's output rod is of a different size/diameter as the futaba's? hmm...that sucks. at least i have my current futaba one working well and will be able to wait the extra time for the part for it to arrive (once i order it, that is). in case you're curious, this is a rundown on what i have on order and am ANXIOUSLY waiting to get here...

duratrax wheels, front - blue
duratrax wheels, rear - blue
duratrax front/rear step spike tires
racetech comm cleaning stick
robinson racing 48 pitch pinion gear 24t (didn't know of the cool odd/even packs)
robinson racing 48 pitch pinion gear 18t (nope, still didn't know about the packs)
duratrax shock springs front hard green evst
duratrax shock springs rear hard green evst
duratrax antenna tube
duratrax bearing 3/16x3/8" (for my new blue front wheels)
duratrax differential gear evst
duratrax differential rebuild kit evst (had to order the gear separate)
duratrax idler gear and shaft evst
duratrax bumper front blue evst
aero-car super speed gear & differential lube
pro-line masher 2000 monster truck tires (4)
hi-tech 645mg metal gear steering servo

there, now you know why i'm so frustrated when it takes 2+ weeks to get stuff shipped here. talk to you later...

[jdm3849]

For the servos there are different amount of teeth on the out put gear so i think you will need a new piece,and for the wheels,you dont need new bearings if yop get new wheels they just pop out of the old ones.And if i were you i would have got a pack of 5 trinity antenna tubes for 1.60$,they bend alot easier and dont break as easily as duratrax ones,i broke my antenna tube 3 times on the first day,not to mention trinity ones come in different colors,havnt broke a trinity one yet

[quadna71]

jdm,
thanks again for all the great advice you keep sending my way - "i'm not worthy" http://www.stopstart.btinternet.co.uk/sm/notworthy.gif i'll have to look into the tooth issue with that servo. as far as the bearings for the front wheels go, i only got the extra set since i'm planning on keeping the old wheels operational. this way i won't have to pop them out constantly when i switch sets of wheels/tires and pinions when out playing. too late about those trinity tubes though. i guess i'll just break the 3 or 4 that come in the pack i ordered then order some trinity ones. thanks - later...

http://www.stopstart.fsnet.co.uk/smilie/wavey.gif

[jdm3849]

Those smiley's are cool,im gonna have to download some:D .but i dont really know all that much about stuff,ive been into rc only since october,thats whaen i got my first hobby quality rc (evader).
theres probobly people in hear with many more years of experience,its just that i post answers to questions A.S.A.P.:)

-peace

[hambone]

team mishap

My son fried his photon, we went with the P2kPro.
It smokes my other two evaders and damn near keeps up with my xxxnt until the starights

problem is like you we race in our backyard grass track. LHS sells motor brushes that will last 10 packs (meant for racing) he has ordered hardend serated brushes from trinity and is going to have them cut to the laydown style for us.

Anyway no Problems here with stock speed control or battery duration, all seems good he's just faster than the photons.

good luck

[UrbanCowboy]

Okay, so here's the deal. I was going to buy an E-MAXX tonight but a last minute change (long story) has lead me to look at Stadium Trucks. Right now I am leaning to the Evader. Anyway, I've been waiting for weeks to buy a RC truck so now I am really anxious to pick a stadium truck so I can start playing. I'm kind of disappointed at the speeds I see for these trucks. RC Car Action says the Duratrax goes 21 MPH. How fast can these really go with Hops and what would I want to look into? What other hops are priorities? I would appreciate some responses so I can make a decision and get something ordered. Thanks a lot!

[Aluma]

Hi guys...been a while...but i just went racing yesterday!

I'm running a OLD tuned MVP(run buncha times and never cut)...24Tpinion on 88T spur...quantum ESC...with the 2400's WOW:D WOW:D

What a difference....!!!!! I won the main! I did 9 laps on my local track! I could jump singles easily! This thing was flying over jumps!

some guys were all..."Hey is that a mod motor?"

I outlapped an associated buggy and doublelapped a factory team T3! maybe it was the drivers? :D

The only problem i had was that the motor got SUPER hot!

i guess i should go down 2 teeth on the pinion? maybe the 22 or 20 tooth pinion would be better?

[EDMONTON]

The evader is an excellent first truck. rtr is the biggest bang for the buck and you're different at the track.I even had guys with losi xxt and rc 10s drooling at my truck yesterday. As a beginner, it kicks ***. I have placed anywhere between second and fourth in the mains(if i can keep the bulkhead in one peice that is).Stay away from the first run evaders they had reliability issues.Everything i have changed however (many) has not broken again except bulkhead (9 times). I must be doing something wrong.By the way those main results are with the stock motor.

Here is what I would change first if I had the money

quicker servo
wheels (they are too brittle)
tires (rear dont hook up on anythingand wear fast)
aluminum parts that are available from duratrax
17 turn motor
19 tooth pinion(personal choice for medium length tracks):D
I still love my evader bone stock though

[oggydog]

I was wondering what servo do some of you guy's use in the Evader I have the servo saver as loose as I can get it and still strip out gears.I stripped out a futuba S3004 twice and a JR Z270.

[UrbanCowboy]

Can someone tell me if the people at Duramax have fixed the problems with the Evader Breaking way too easily? Bulkheads etc like I read in many posts? I'm interested in getting an Evader but being new to the hobby, I dont want a lot of fuss right off. Thanks

[EDMONTON]

im happy with my evader but if you can spare the extra money get a losi mf.

[quadna71]

urban cowboy - i've only had mine a month or so and haven't busted anything plastic yet. well, nothing aside from my idler gear. but i believe that was due to my settings on the ball diff and the slipper clutch. i did hear that the problems with the breakage has been taken care of now but who's to say that if you do break something the piece that duratrax sends isn't from the early production lines?? never know. all i know is that i ordered mine from tower so i'm assuming that all they have in stock is from the newer lines. i mean, i've had many head-ons at full speed (made me cringe) and didn't do anything other than scratch up the body. so, take a chance and get one! edmonton listed some good points too. the rear tires are pretty soft - mine wore out right away but i was doing alot of power slides on the pavement. also, the wheels are pretty rigid and are prone to chipping if you land on the edge just right. other than that - great truck right out of the box! later...


oh, and i'm still waiting on parts...
http://www.unique-hardware.co.uk/server-smilies/contrib/sarge/BoomSmilie_anim.gif USPS

[jimk72]

I have had mine almost 2 months and beat on it with huge jumps and summersalts, flips and crashes ans nothing even cracked. The one thing that amazed me is a kid ran his bike right over the top head on and I thought it was trashed but when I took the top of all that happend was a bent rear shaft on one of the shocks. I think the replacement was 2 or 3 dollars.
If it was this or an e-maxx I would go for the e-maxx but if you are hooked on stadium trucks why not get the evader and have extra money for hoppups or batteries or tires and a good peak charger like intelli peaks twin charger( peaks 2 at once).
Thats just my opinion!

[Anthen27]

I have a question, I have an Evader that is completely stock, I bought a 14 turn double speed gems motor today and a Novak dually no motor limit speed controller, What pinion should I use? 16 tooth? Is the stock pinion 18 or 20 tooth?

[Anthen27]

I have a question, I have an Evader that is completely stock, I bought a 14 turn double speed gems motor today and a Novak dually no motor limit speed controller, What pinion should I use? 16 tooth? Is the stock pinion 18 or 20 tooth? Is this setup going to destroy my transmission? Can I get metal gears for the tranny?I use no name Power Racing products 3000 mah Nimh packs? I also see everone breaks the front bulkhead, Is there an upgrade for that also?.....Thanks for your help guys, Have (6) 1/8 nitro cars, electric is all new to me............

[Mack22]

What spur and pinion gear would you reccomend if i am leaving everything else stock but getting a speed gems 17 turn double? I want a good balance of speed and torque. Pehaps a little more torque than speed.

[jdm3849]

I think the pinion is 20 teeth,i have counted over and over and still have come out with 20 teeth,tower says different though.
for a good balance of speed and torque for that 17 turn .motor i would get a 18 tooth pinion,if you want a little more speed get a 19 tooth.
metal rubbing on metal contact causes radio interference so there is no metal tranny gears. that 14 turn motor wont tear up the tranny,i know people that have put 10 turns in there. a good pinion would be a 17 tooth for that 14 turn motor and if not then just get a RRP six pack for like 12$ and you can fine tune how you want it.

[EDMONTON]

I have counted the teeth also and there are 20. The parts list says 18. I was told that 21 teeth was a good STARTING point for a 19 turn motor, does anyone else agree. Also would anyone recomend the speed gem over the chameleon.

[Mack22]

Any objections for an 18 tooth pinion with a speed gems 17 double?

[jdm3849]

Mack,i totally suggest the 18 tooth:D

Edmonton, actually i would suggest getting the chameleon 2,it will have more torque and rpm because of the p2k can design,it also has a better endbell that is less likely to melt. if you were to get either of these motors i would highly suggest a 20 tooth.

[pudder]

I am leaving this thread since I probably won't use my Evader much anymore. I had a good time helping people out with stuff, and thanks for those who helped me out. I am getting a FT T3 any day now.

Happy RC'ing.

-mike

[jdm3849]

I am going to be selling all my electric rc stuff. I m still going to stay here and help because its fun, I am aiming to get a triple-xnt sport,its a hefty 400$ for fuel,glow starter,fuel bottle,and kit. but it will be worth it!!!!!

[jdm3849]

the evader is pretty much the rolling chassis besides the sprint esc.
the evader has only the esc for electronics(case has cracks in it) and it has yellow bumper,blue aluminum front brace (still in package), hpi mesh mt black wheels on back only with dirt hawgs,blue battery strap. here is all of the spare parts-
1 black front bumper
1 set of suspension arms front
1 front body mount
2 gearbox sets
2 front braces
2 front bulkheads
4 shock bushings
2 front hub carriers
1 battery brace
that is a total of about 45$ in spare parts(less downtime)
some screws have little rust on them
i have replaced an unirversal dogbone pin with a part of a paperclip,could use a new pin(about 1$ for 2)
spurs teeth are worn down a little,could use a new one (3$)
and needs 1 new hub in the front left (strees tech part)
i did drill a little gap in the battery holders "flange" so the futaba mc330cr esc can fit
how much should i ask for this,there are people that want it already but i cant think of a price,thanks a kajillion

-Mike

edit: the evader does not come with the futaba mc330cr esc,only the sprint. The sprint is the only electronic it comes with

[quadna71]

okay - update on my evader. well, i got all the parts in finally. first two shipments yesterday and the tires and idler gears today. i ended up putting the masher 2000's on the back and the step spikes on the front. the hood has a sort of "raked" stance to it - you'd think it would handle like crap but i was really surprised! the thing works awesome on packed sand and grass. that was all i had to try it on at the time cause it started to pour about two batteries later. here are a few pictures to show you how it looks now. let me know what you think...don't worry though. the step spikes are only staying on there until i get the servo upgraded to handle the big meats in front. either way - i think it looks pretty sweet.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid22/pacc6c461d70d6ced73b7516d0999926f/fdab5378.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid22/p1b3bc3deb18a8c00b4334b74d8c28d00/fdab536d.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid22/pce7a359cc7fee7b16b82560ca61fd8d1/fdab5361.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid22/p4f3c5a3f3e9c8c5017fd1f343a322f30/fdab5348.jpg

i'm running the p2k2 pro, sprint esc, and a 15t pinion...still not enough power. now what? should i go for a 17 turn motor or try to find an even smaller pinion? what about the spur - can you get larger ones??? i put the stiffer springs on the front and found that it lands much nicer now too. i originally put the masher's on the front too but my stock servo can't handle them too well. hopefully my hitech will be here in another day or so and then i can try to find a way to mount it in there.

[jdm3849]

The larger pinion=faster
The smaller spur=faster

with my 17 turn i was running 19/88,and your supposed to have a bigger pinion when the number of winds go up,are you talking about speed power,or torque power

too bad you havnt been on when ive been on lately :-(

but i did find a buyer for the evader :-) 82$ with stinger motor

[quadna71]

hey jdm,
yeah, sorry about not being around...been trying to stay away from the messengers over the past week - personal reasons. but anyways, when i said that i want more power, i'm trying to find a happy medium. it lost lots of torque with the large mashers (which i was expecting) but i want to regain it somehow. i've got a 15 tooth pinion on it now and the stock spur. maybe i'll step up to a 94 or 96 tooth spur?.?.? i'm still having problems with my ball diff too. i just rebuilt it today and it seems that after every battery i have to tighten it up. i realize that you have to adjust it after rebuilding but it's almost as if it's loosening up. and i replaced the selflocking nut on the left side of the ball diff too! any thoughts on that? oh, and i'm really disappointed with the wheels that i got. they are just the replacement duratrax wheels. i've already got a few cracks, chips, and "cave ins" just from this morning. too brittle! oh well, still waiting on the hitech servo too. maybe in today's mail... i'll check back later to see if your around on aol. take it easy.

[oggydog]

Does anybody know if they make a servo saver spring that is not as stiff as the stock spring . I think that is why I keep stripping out servo's the spring is so stiff I can barely squeeze it between my fingures are they all like that or did I get the wrong spring with my truck?? Also broke (#8) servo horn twice...

[jdm3849]

I personally have never stripped the standard servo in the evader while it was in there(stripped it in my stampede though),spin that silver piece over the spring to the left,it will put less pressure on the spring making it easier to "slip" in a crash,if you cant loosen the servo saver anymore and it is already loosened to its max then i have no idea what to do,sorry:cool:

[jimk72]

quadna71, I see you got your mashers. I have the same problem with my mashers. I got my p2k2 and my 32 pitch 9 tooth yesterday, yes 9 tooth and my Optima still doesn't have the power I want. 9 tooth is the smallest I could find in 32 pitch. When I put my mashers on my Evader I will still have the same problem as you then. Do they make a motor for trucks that has a lower rpm and alot more power.
I wonder it the mashers are just too big for the trans.

As for the servos I use the one that came with my controller and I have never had any problems with any car I have ever had. They are the standard S3003 from Futaba.

[TeamMishap]

Anyone running MIP CVDs on their truck? If so, are you using the Losi XXTs or do they have an Evader specific CVD?

[jdm3849]

On all the forums i have been too there has been no one that has run cvd's in their evader,btw they dont make a cvd set specifically for the evader st.

[TeamMishap]

For those that don't already have this...

Ad #010R7 gets you $10 off a $50 order at Tower. Think I'm going to get that Chameleon 2 Pro now.

[guver]

Originally posted by oggydog
Does anybody know if they make a servo saver spring that is not as stiff as the stock spring . I think that is why I keep stripping out servo's the spring is so stiff I can barely squeeze it between my fingures are they all like that or did I get the wrong spring with my truck?? Also broke (#8) servo horn twice...
oogydog my servo arm broke because my servo saver was corroded together so that no matter how loose I had the spring adjusted, it wasn't working. My fix was to take it apart, and clean and lube it also sanded the ramps nice and smooth so it ramps up both ways very easily when the nut is all the way up (loose). Hope this might help you.

[oggydog]

guver
I took mine apart and cleaned it also I found a new spring I had to cut a little off of it but works great ,my problem no matter what I did the spring seemed to be to stiff so I used one off of a tower hobbies Nitro ST-15 Servo Saver Set cost 5.49 saves my servo gears and servo arm I think the spring I had was not the right one for my truck you even had to use pliers to squeeze it together Thanks for the help guver ...

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXWZ58

[jep_rc]

Hi Everyone, :)

I am new to this forum. I wanted to let Evader owners know that I have a new affordable Aluminum Pin Brace Set available for the Evader :) . Check out the Jep-R/C website if interested. Thanks!

www.geocities.com/jep_rc (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc)

[guver]

That looks like a nice pin brace set, Jep

I just got another evader and had to reverse the switch on my transmitter-- the wires are plugged in the same as my old truck.

How do I tell which is pos. on the motor? there is no + sign, but one side has a dot of red paint on it, It is the side with the white wire.

Could they have mixed up the leads on the motor?
If so would I be running with timing retarded instead of advanced?

Just found a broken servo arm also, are there any stronger than stock?

[jdm3849]

That motor isnt on retard timing,the wires are just colored coated so newbies know which wires on the motor to connect to the esc. The wires arnt meant to be used for only positive or negative wires. Just switch the wires from the esc to motor and flip that switch back,but you dont need to. I believe all the servo horns are the same strength,just get a colored one and its possible that it could be stronger.

the guy who was going to buy evader never sent the money so im gonna have to keep it. Also,tonight at 5:00 my time (central) i am going on vacation to montana and wyoming so i will not be on for a week(until next sunday) im gonna miss you guys:( :D

[Poolboy51]

Does anyone know of anybody thats making graphite parts for the evader? The aluminum will probabaly be too heavy. THANKS

[quadna71]

i haven't seen any graphite parts yet but i did just order the aluminum axle hubs for the rear. i was worried that all the popping off of the arms for adjusting the diff would start pulling the ball out of the plastic. i heard from someone that the weight of the aluminum was only slightly more than the plastic. guess it's all a matter of how critical or serious you are with your machine. me? i'm just in it for the "fun" factor for now...good luck with your search - later...

[jep_rc]

FYI - Evader owners. I have 5 aluminum Pin Brace sets up for auction on eBay here:
Jep-R/C Auction (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1742277724)

This brace set is stamped out of very lightweight aluminum, in order for both braces to fit on the stock pins - the weight will not be a factor, and they are still very strong, because most of the stress puts the brace in tension.

[jep_rc]

OK - I have a new flexible bumper design as well - please let me know what you think:

http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/photos102.html

Jep

[quadna71]

jep_rc,
the designs look great! what sort of material did you make the flexible bumper out of? also, if i bid on your braces at ebay, will you be able to ship via usps? i can't receive any ups or fed ex at my present location. if so, i'll be bidding first thing in the morning. later... :p

oops - i just saw that you are selling the bumpers - guess you probably don't want to give away your trade secrets! let me know about the shipping though....

[jep_rc]

Hi quadna -

The material is a heavy-duty black vinyl plastic. It is very durable, and has just enough give to flex on impact.

As a rule, I ship the brace set in a padded envelope via USPS first class mail, so that should not be a problem. Thanks !

Jep

[nitrodemon2500]

dont try to put the photon back in. i dont talk about things this way but if you do your going to be in last place. that sucker will take a dump if its old enough.

[yoyou13]

I was thinking about getting titanium turnbuckles for my evader. I was wondering, if the turnbuckle that I want to get is 3mm too long or too short will it still fit without aney problems, such as stripping.

Here is the link of the turnbuckles that i want to get. ).Tower (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXVG60&P=7) You can see that four of them are too short(by 3mm), and two of them are too long(by 3mm).

[Poolboy51]

Why wouldnt you just get these?:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXY770&P=0

[quadna71]

hi everyone,
i have a question similar to poolboy's from a little while back? how about those aftermarket parts? graphite or aluminum, it makes no matter to me. i had a rough day with my evst yesterday. broke the chassis clean in half, ripped a sway arm pin right out of the rear chassis brace, broke a hub, and bent an axle. on the positive side - it was the coolest wreck i have ever seen!!! :p anyways, where was i? oh yeah, parts. so, do they make a chassis out of aluminum or what? only things i've seen are suspension parts and such. i just would like to make the chassis stronger and i don't have access to a metal shop down here. otherwise i'd attempt to make on on my own. even some sort of reinforcements would be nice - to keep those stress cracks from appearing just forward of where the rear chassis connects to the chassis. any ideas? thanks - oh, and all this damage just HAD to happen an hour before mail arrived with my new 17 turn gem :( oh well, that's how it usually works out, right? okay. let me know what you all think. later...

hey jdm, how'd vacation go?

[jep_rc]

Hi Quadna71 -

All the comercial upgrades for the Evader can be found at Tower Hobbies by putting " EVST " in the search box - it will give a list of every part they stock. I really don't know of any other aftermarket parts for this truck yet (other than mine, of course), but many XXT parts do fit (not the chassis though).

My son broke his chassis in half right along where the rear plate attaches, and I actually repaired it quite easiliy using four small aluminum bars and some JB Weld. It is stronger than new now. I put the bars across the crack on the bottom and along the turned up edge sides of the chassis and put a screw and nut through each (four flat bars, each with two screws). I will try to draw a picture and post it.

Jep
http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/index.html

[jep_rc]

Here is the pic I referred to above:


Jep

[pudder]

.I'm gonna come back to this thread. :)

-mike

[yoyou13]

Originally posted by Poolboy51
Why wouldnt you just get these?:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXY770&P=0

Well if I was to buy the XXT turnbuckle set then two of the turnbuckles would be short by 8mm, but at least I would get the included bell crank rod in titanium, that dosent come with the XXX-NT kit. :)

[quadna71]

jep_rc,
i understand by the picture what you meant. i'm thinking that i'll just buy a replacement then reinforce it before i even install it. that oughta hold for awhile. i've tried the "evst" list on tower before - pretty long list but alas, no chassis other than oem replacements :( well, thanks for the time and i'll keep an eye out for the parts you sent me. later...

p.s. hey pudder, what made you come back? i mean, glad to have you but i thought you were shying away when you got your new "ride" ? just curious. either way - nice seeing you again.:p

[Poolboy51]

Pudder you left? I never knew that LOL. Mst have been when i was gone..... glad to have you back:)


Anyways.....
What do you think I should buy with my $150?
A) a novak millenium pro charger
B) a Intellipeak charger, a P2K2 Pro, and a new 3000 NIMH battery
C) a Intellipeak charger, P2K2 Pro, and some evader hop ups
????????:confused: ??????????
Thanks:)

[jdm3849]

It depends on what batteries you currently have,if you have 3000's or good matched 2400's I would say "C".

[Poolboy51]

I got a Radio Shack 3000. LOL!:o

[Anthen27]

Can anyone tell me which Proline body to use with the Evader? I am sick of the stock body............

[jep_rc]

Originally posted by Anthen27
Can anyone tell me which Proline body to use with the Evader? I am sick of the stock body............

Get this one:

#3102-00 2001 GMC Sierra fits Losi XXXT

or any that are specifically spec'd for the XXT, XXTcr, or XXXT

Jep
Jep-R/C Evader Hop-Ups
http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/index.html

[pudder]

Left just to see if you guys would notice. :p No, I just needed a break from the whole Evader thing since the last few bad experiences.

Anthen, any body for the Losi XXT or XXXT should fit the Evader.

BTW: My Evader is up for sale too.

-mike

[jdm3849]

Poolboy:"C"

[Poolboy51]

Thanks JDM

Does anyone know of an aftermarket part (any material(and other than jep RC's)) to help stop that bulkhead from breakin? That is something I would like to get first. Also what are the most helpful hop-ups to get?

Thanks:)

[jep_rc]

Originally posted by Poolboy51
Does anyone know of an aftermarket part (any material(and other than jep RC's))

Hi Poolboy - Well, Duratrax has an all aluminum bulkhead out if you want to spend $40 bucks and add a ton of weight to your car. I have seen one of these at my LHS, and they are exactly like the stock part, only machined out of a solid block of aluminum and anodized blue. or purple. They are *very* heavy. Here is a link to info:http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXBVG1&P=7

I am curious why you are not interested in my brace set? - I believe it is the best solution available today, and have many customers who are very happy with it (you might want to check out the Hobby Talk forum at the TeamRCV site). Anyway, if there are ways I can make my product better, I would love to hear suggestions. THanks

Jep

[pudder]

Does DuraTrax have any of the Graphite stuff out yet? It is good to see you guys getting around the flaws of this truck.

I think my hobby shop at my track and in the city are loosing buisness since I got my T3 :p

-mike

[quadna71]

well, this is what i think i'm going to do.
i cracked the chassis in a couple of spots (similar to the ones in jep_rc's artwork). when i get my new chassis in i'm planning on running a strip of 1/8" thick by 1 1/4" wide aluminum lengthways along the bottom of the chassis. it would start just aft of the front of the chassis and continue past the point where the rear chassis connects to the chassis and possible turn upwards at the back and follow the natural curve of the motor guard. i'd taper the front so as to keep drag to a minimum and hopefully since it is only 1/8" thick it won't affect my handling/ground clearance too much. this should eliminate all but the most minute of flexing between the chassis and the rear chassis plate (and hopefully the cracking too). as soon as i get it all fabbed up i'll post some pics of it so all can see and give ideas/rebuttals on it.
as far as poolboy51's question, i think jep_rc's brace might just do the trick. not that i doubt your touting jep_rc, just that i don't have it on yet. mail's slow as heck down here...but once i have it on i'll definately be posting on it. it should take care of the problems caused from hitting the front end slightly to the side - which rips out the pins. a head on collision won't be helped by the braces, but the soft flexible bumper that jep_rc's selling might take care of that - i'll let you know when i get that on too. sheesh, you'd think i was being paid by jep_rc for all the claiming i'm doing!!! :p
on another note, my new HPI rims are sweet looking! i got them on yesterday - maybe they'll be tougher (less prone to chipping) than the OEM rims.
hey, anyone know if duratrax is still sending replacement stress-tech parts sight unseen or if you have to send in the busted ones first? i have all the busted ones off (11 of them) but the "turnaround time) would kill me with the shipping delays to here :( thanks for all the help - again, i'll get some new pics up soon with all the stuff i've been doing to the money magnet :p
later...

[jep_rc]

Hi Quadna - First Class mail can be slow getting out of Sioux Falls as well, I am sure you will get the package next week if not tomorrow (Saturday) - please let me know if you do not see it by around Wednesday.

Regarding your chassis mod - I think you would be better off putting two narrower pieces of aluminum along each side of the chassis bottom (instead of one piece down the middle). This way, they won't interfere with ground clearance. They would attach at the rear to the existing rear-plate screws, as a matter of fact I would drill these all the way through and use long screws with nuts. Like this......

[pudder]

Here is my Evader now...

-mike

[Poolboy51]

Jep R/C-
I have nothing against yopur braces, I even think I might buy them, I just wanted to see if there was anything else out there to stop it from breaking.

does anyone know if duratrax makes an aluminum front top brace? I think that would make the front are rigid.

thanks

[pudder]

I think they do. Check Tower's site or email DuraTrax.

-mike

[jep_rc]

Actually I don't think they make an alloy top brace - if you mean the bracethat goes from the back of the bulkhead to the servo brace. I made an aluminum servo brace (the part on top of the servo with the nib for the battery bar. I also have a reinforced top brace - I used a piece of old epoxy printed circuit board. I'll see if I can get some pics.
Jep

TopBrace:

[jep_rc]

Here is the servo brace (sorry for the blurry pics).
Jep

[jep_rc]

... and here is a pic of a repair job I did on a chassis that broke clean in half - as you can see I don't go for beauty, but I race the heck out of my trucks.

Ouch

[pudder]

You guys know that is kinda sad that we have to do this stuff to our Evaders so they will stay together.

I will post a pic of my servo brace I made.

-mike

[pudder]

It is pretty cheesy, but it is all you need. Never even bent one bit and it took some nasty crashes. :)

-mike

[Aluma]

hi guys, i took out the stock photon motor and replaced it with a tuned MVP that i'd been using in my touring car....i also put on a 26t pinion... The motor got extremely HOT! I couldn't put my finger on it at all, so i put a 20T pinion and it was still HOT! i ran it three times(quals and a main.) the next day it wouldn't even move... so i put the photon back in with its stock pinion...ran it twice on an empty lot with no jumps and the third time it wouldnt move any more...the motor was still getting too hot.

Anyone got any ideas as to whats going on?

I've got a quantum esc and run good 2400's. Run the same on my touring car and never had a problem with motors or gearing.
I rebuilt it thinkin it was the diff or something but its perfect.
I guess i burnt out the motors, but that doesnt make sense cuz its the motor that came with it!


What pinion are you supposed to use with stock motors say a P2K or P2k2? what about a spec 19turn? what would be a good motor to buy if im racing stock class?

[jdm3849]

No graphite parts are out yet,duratrax hasnt even confirmed that they are going to make those parts.

[pudder]

There could be quite a few things causing the problem. I have heard a lot about Reedy motors getting hot easily, but never the Photon. I could gear my Photon to a 25 tooth pinion racing on carpet track, and it would maybe be a little bit warm.

Take your pinion off so that your drive train will move freely, roll the truck along a table or something, and feel and listen for binding. Blown bearings, bad gear mesh, and tightening your tires on too tight can cause resistance in the drive train. It could also be the first impression-bad gearing.

-mike

[jdm3849]

Jep-i was just in souix falls on wednsday at a truck stop:D

i run a mvp in my evader and it gets plenty hot but not too hot.
ive run a 10x1 in my evader and it got more hot and when i touched the motor mount on the edges that was even hot.

[jdm3849]

OK,The only servo i have right now is a hitec 645mg and the teeth spline on the output gear is too small,do they make a servo horn made for hitec servo's?or will it only accept futaba?

[pudder]

DuraTrax only has servo horns for Futaba, which really made me mad because when I had to use a JR servo I didn't get as much steering, but I think when I turned up the steering endpoint I got it back.

-mike

[jdm3849]

Thats sucks,So how did your servo fit? mine seems to slip when i turn it. I guess i could just go out and buy a cheap s3003

[pudder]

Man, you're spamming your crap in all of these threads. You gotta stop it.

-mike

[jdm3849]

mike a.k.a. pudder- did your servo seem to slip in the horn? mine does but i think i could tighten the screw all the way down,i havnt installed the servo but ive taken the horn off and spun the servo with that.

[Poolboy51]

Originally posted by pudder
Man, you're spamming your crap in all of these threads. You gotta stop it.

-mike

................what?:confused:

[TSR6]

Originally posted by Poolboy51


................what?:confused:

he's reffering to something that was removed last night.

[Poolboy51]

ooooooook! What was it? and WHO was it?:confused:

[quadna71]

hi everyone...bear with me - lots to say!

first, jep_rc,
i got the parts in today. for the record everybody - jep_rc's stuff is awesome. the braces are just the ticket to preventing ripping the pins right out with frontal collisions. also, the bumper seems to work well too. not like i've tried to make any head-on collisions, but it takes a pretty good beating with it.

jdm3849,
i'm still running the hitec 645 - i just used one of the horns that came in the box. it has the proper spline numbers for the servo. just take the 4-arm red one and hack off three of the arms. just make sure that you take off one thick arm and the two other thin ones. that way you'll be left with one thick one. i've been running it ever since and there is no flex at all! plus, the top hole on that thick arm is the proper height to align with your servo saver. lately though i've been experiencing some "glitches" with it's response. i'm chalking that up to my receiver though since i'm getting random losses in signal to the motor once in a while too. so, i hope you saved the red 4 arm horn from the box it came in. like you, i tried the evader's horns on the hitec at first and just ended stripping them (no matter how tight i cranked down the screw and washer too) if you don't have those parts anymore, tower lists them - along with a single 3/4 metal horn that would rule - too bad they've been out of stock with it for some time now.

i'm running a trinity gem now - the 17 turn double wound. i'm getting awesome speeds - the lowend punch is a little lacking though. to be expected with the double wound but is liveable. my gears are still the stock 88 spur and an 18 robinson pinion. i was thinking of stepping up to a different pitch gear set - anyone have good and/or bad thoughts on this? i have now idea what the gearing numbers would be so any advice would be appreciated. also, i ditched the sprint esc and have my tekin rebel doing the work - it runs like a champ and rarely even warms up.

any people seen any place that might have an aluminum chassis? i haven't seen one myself. also, where can you get the rear chassis section without the 3 degree camber. tower lists the duratrax part number but even the duratrax website won't recognize the part number - weird, eh? i have no lhs to turn to so i guess i'll just have to live with the 3 degrees until i return to the states (90 days left - woooohoooooooo). well, that's it from honduras - catch you all later! :p

[jdm3849]

I'll wait till i strip the normal horn and then ill try the one that came in the box,stay with the 48 pitch you have right now,if you go to 64 they will strip really easily,and going down to 36 will be an overkill because they are gears that go in big trucks such as the clod buster and those bigger gears are very noisy when their spinning

No company has made an aluminum chassis yet and there is no need to,it just will cost more money,get scuffed,and bend,also make the car heavier. And if it breaks it wont be under the warranty like the plasic one.
I believe that the only rear chassis plate they make is the stock one that comes with the kit.

[quadna71]

mike,
you're right about a metal chassis being a little overkill and heavier too. just that i don't have the luxery of getting my parts to me as fast as you do. it takes (on average) 25 to 30 days to get replacement stress-tech parts from duratrax from here. two weeks to get there and then another two weeks back. that just plain sucks if you ask me!! :( so i'm just kicking around new ideas. as far as the rear chassis section, this is what i was talking about at towerhobbies...
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXAME4&P=7
scroll down to the tech department's notes and read the "comments" line. that was what i was refering too. i heard that those kits lessen the amount of toe-in or possibly make it 0 degrees. just that if you try entering that part number at duratrax's site it comes up emptyhanded :confused: seems odd being that the number listed there on towerhobbies is a duratrax part number...what do you think? thanks for the advice on the gears - i'll just stick with the 48 pitch ones. oh, and when you go for the hitech horn that was in the box, don't bother trying the thin white single arm horn. it's the perfect size and all but it flexes bigtime - looked like it was as flexible as a ziptie when i had it installed!!! oh well, live and learn, right?

what's up with your folks? everytime i see you online lately it's them hogging up the machine!!! :D (just kidding) they must have lots of emailing to catch up on after the vacation. talk to you later...

[Poolboy51]

Whats good gearing for a P2K2?:confused: thanks

[pudder]

I think I used around 20 or so, I really don't remember.

-mike

[jdm3849]

21 teeth would be a good starting point,and if it isnt getting hot then go up by 1.

[EDMONTON]

21 tooth sounds good to me too!

I havent posted or replied in some time now so here goes.

I have a few usefull tips for those of u who are on an extremely tight budget like myself.
If your racing your evader with the stock photon, change to a 21 tooth pinion. you will still have enough torq, gain speed, and not have to loosen the slipper as much. The motor does however get hotter but is still whithin reason. Some people will disagree but I have tried and have seen for myself. Next take your photon out and clean the comm with a comm stick and clean the motor out with electronic spray cleaner. Go out and buy better brushes (sorry dont know what kind i bought) and much stiffer brush springs. Drill a 5/64 hole in the center using a steel drill bit. Only go 2 mm deep. reasemble and dont forget to relube the bushings with LIGHT bushing oil. Also ditch the bullet connectors and solder your motor to your esc. I swear its like it was a new truck. Now i dont have to go out and buy a p2k2 for a while cause I have to adjust my skills to the new speed. It had to have picked up at least 4 or 5 mph. Ihave always cleaned my motor and changed brushes but never has it worked like this, not even new. Ialso changed locations of the shocks. For the front top, mount on the outside hole. For the bottom, mount on the inside. For the rear top, mount on the very outside bottom. For the bottom rear, mount on the inside. You will have quicker steering response and it will handle jumps much better. The original setup is best suited for jumping ant hills. I dont know what Duratrax was thinking. Dont forget to adjust your ride height from there.
The only problem that I have encounterd is that the DURACRAP tires wont hook up. Imwaiting for my losi step pins to come. Iwill keep u posted as I continue my quest for budjet racing evader (for beginner class of course).

[evader32]

Hey guys I got my Evader About 4months ago and i'm getting preety good at driving. I only broke the servo arm, bulk head, and the front shock tower so I bought a losi xxt frt shok towr and its a perfect fit. I installed a lrp Quantom Pro and a caliber16turn
and she was clocked at 31mph. I was woundring if any one has tied or knows if you could put 1/8scale buggy tires on it thanks

[pudder]

EDMONTON-A good setup for offroad for shock mounting locations is:

middle holes on front tower
middle holes front arms
middle holes rear arms
bottom inside rear tower

-mike

[Anthen27]

I am running a speed gems 2 12 turn double w/ a 15 tooth pinion stock spur and the slipper is too loose tightened all the way! anyone else have this problem or anyone have fix for it? No holeshots? I took it apart and everthing looks fine? No excessive wear on the white nylon disc? Any suggestions?......

[guver]

Thanks for the tips guys,

I use the stock motors also, but use 23 and 25 tooth. The motor really doesn't get any hotter, but is way faster.

I keep having trouble with the end bell coming away from the can. Also when I take in to get the comm turned, It is already too far gone to turn. (after only 1 set of brushes)

[guver]

Anybody have the part number for a good replacement arm that lines up well? The stock colored ones aren't any stronger.

I'm getting tired of buying the servo-saver kit.

I did put the ball in the lower hole, and used a weaker spring, but it doesn't steer as far or as quick or as strong as stock.

[jdm3849]

Originally posted by Anthen27
I am running a speed gems 2 12 turn double w/ a 15 tooth pinion stock spur and the slipper is too loose tightened all the way! anyone else have this problem or anyone have fix for it? No holeshots? I took it apart and everthing looks fine? No excessive wear on the white nylon disc? Any suggestions?......

Are you sure its your slipper slipping?,it could be your differential. Does it make a loud noise when its slipping? If it does then its the diff. Pop the right dogbobone off of the out drive and tighten the screw all they way and back out about 1/8 of a turn. Tightening your slipper will also make it harder on the differential because more stress is being put on it.

[jdm3849]

Originally posted by guver
Anybody have the part number for a good replacement arm that lines up well? The stock colored ones aren't any stronger.

I'm getting tired of buying the servo-saver kit.

I did put the ball in the lower hole, and used a weaker spring, but it doesn't steer as far or as quick or as strong as stock.

It depends on which servo your using.

[pudder]

Buy a large servo horn for your servo, I used a long Futaba one, and it never broke. I hated the Duratrax one, they were crap.

-mike

[guver]

I am using the stock servo SX 100 I think it is a Futaba servo.

Will any futaba arm have the correct offset and length?
I have some, but they are very thin and bend easier than stock.

[guver]

I think I found some that will work, but they don't have the offset like the stock one.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?Q=1&I=LXD668&P=7

[pudder]

I used a servo horn like this. If you guys have dual rate, just turn it to full, or servo endpoint adjustment, I used a shorter JR horn for a while, finally fiddled with my radio, and had good turning again.

-mike

[Grease-Monkey]

Is it true I cant race my Evader in anything but stock class? Even if I get all new equiptment for it? THis would be stupid if the motor and ESC could handle it. I dont want to blow all my money getting new parts if I cant race it.

[pudder]

What do you mean? All Evaders are good for is basicly racing stock class, they have way too much flex to race mod, compared to other trucks on the market.

All you need to race stock is a stock motor.

[sycotikskir]

Hey iw as just at the LHS and picked up a P2k pro motor. Does it matter which wire solders to where? It doesn't have positive or negative symbols on the motor. for now I am goin to run the same size pinion as stock until i can get some cash and buy a couple and mess around with them. if you guys have and tips/suggestions please tell me. this is the first tiem i have put a motor in

[jdm3849]

You can race the evader mod,you can race a rubberized truck. The flex dosnt matter as long as your a good driver. What harm does flex do?

[jdm3849]

Originally posted by sycotikskir
Hey iw as just at the LHS and picked up a P2k pro motor. Does it matter which wire solders to where? It doesn't have positive or negative symbols on the motor. for now I am goin to run the same size pinion as stock until i can get some cash and buy a couple and mess around with them. if you guys have and tips/suggestions please tell me. this is the first tiem i have put a motor in

just make sure you put them on opposite sides of the motor,if the motor is only running backwards switch the bullet connectors and it will run great.

[sycotikskir]

i have the motor right ehre and on the tabs two side by side have the brushes soldered on the other two on the opposite side have nothing which tabs should i solder to?

[jdm3849]

Solder the leads onto the side that you have nothing on. Do you kinow what i mean by saying on the opposite sides right? there are 2 metal pieces on the endbell,each piece has one brush,solder one of the leads on each side with a brush. Its hard to explain without showing you.

[sycotikskir]

I got my p2k pro soldered and all i have to say is WOW that thing is so fast now. I need to get thoe pinions tho so I can get it faster. Also earlier today iw as jumping it ni mybackyard and had my evader 10-15 feet up there and didn't breaka thing on it. amzing what they can take now that i have the good plastic pieces. :) :) :) :)

[pudder]

What are you all talking about? The p2k, if you lookon the endbell on the black plastic has a little + symbol on one side of it. :)

Oh ya, solder the wires onto the tabs that the brushes are soldered to, it will give the best connection.

[jdm3849]

what are you talking about? He has already got the motor soldered.:p

[pudder]

I was just adding that he should solder the wires to the motor tabs that have the brush wires soldered onto them already, since there is two sets of tabs.

[EDMONTON]

can someone pleae tell me what shock oil comes in the evader. the guys at the local track told me that i need a heavier weight. I forgot to ask them which on to use. Its a dirt track and im thinking of using 50 weight. They said my truck is too bouncy.

THANKS:p

[DIRT DOG]

I just got My Evader Today I Got The Duratrax Intillspeed 8t Racing reverse ESC. AND A Trinty calirber 16t Moter I Had A Blast Driven IT Today. It is A Great Play Truck And Race Truck:D

[pudder]

EDMONTON-Here are a few things that you should look at before you hit the track.

-The dogbones and front a-arms should sit level with each other when your truck is sitting on a table or whatever, if you have to have a little bit of sag to do this, it will help your trucks handling a lot, I know it did for my T3.

I think the stock oil is around 25 wt. I know in the Indoor season when I raced mine I didn't have enough oil to fill up all my shocks, I best matched it with 25wt oil. You shouldn't have 50 wt for offroad, that is just too thick, and your suspension response will be slower.

Try adjusting your springs so your truck sits level like I said, and if that doesnt help, maybe try working with different oils.

[brazilnut]

First posting here. i bought an evader st a few months ago. I wanted something to learn on. So far i'm pretty happy with it. Even though the stock motor and esc weren't that great. now with a 17t single speed gems with a futaba mc330 esc, it really goes. What about some good shocks? Anybody got a suggestion?

[pudder]

The stock shocks are fine, there is nothing really wrong with them. If you wanted, you could get the annodized ones, or hard annodized, and titanium shock shafts are always nice to have too.

[DIRT DOG]

Can you guys tell me what is a good setup for stock racing class

[pudder]

Is it onroad or offroad? Offroad it is best to have the springs so the a-arms sit level with each other. The camber front and rear and toe in at 0 degrees, (except for rear toe in because it is fixed) have the front shocks on the tower and arms in the middle holes, and the rear shocks in middle holes on the arms and inside bottom on the tower.

Hope that helps.

[DIRT DOG]

Thanks Pudder

[EDMONTON]

pudder

I already have the arms and dogbones level. Maye Ill try a 30 weight or 40 first. I also have the ride height set. It seems to me the next step is to change oil. Thanks for your help Ill let you know.:cool:

[evader32]

Hey do any of you guys no what kind of tranny the evader has because it looks very similar to the stealth in my t3 i want to put an assotiated titainium top shaft because i striped mine twice now thanks

[Prinler]

Ok i know this has been said. Havent read it i just know it has. I want my evader to go faster then stock. What is the lowest turn motor for street and light off-road ( like corner dirt lots). I want to smoke my friends stock evader :) And what is the best priced ESC that will handle lower turns? with reverse?

[pudder]

Go to www.novak.com to take a look at esc's. If you really want to go fast, get a Trinity p-94 or a Corally handwound motor, they do come at a big price though! Go for around a 13 turn maybe, because if you decide to race, you will have a motor that is not too low of turn to get you around the track, and will be fast enough. I know over here, lots of the guys race with 13, 14, 15 turns mostly, but you have to have good batts for that.

Evader 32-The stealth tranny should fit, I know you can use the t3 idler in the evader one, but if you were thinking of switching to a whole stealth it won't work. For one, the output shafts are smaller on T3, and there is no tab for the motor gaurd. The topshaft should fit it, just look at the teeth count and the shaft sizes, and you should be able to go from there.

[evader32]

Thanks pudder and did you guys know that the front a rewar arms from the xxt fit on the evader !

[popee]

All these evaders look great, While its based on the XXT, i thought Id post my XXT, with the worlds most box-like body, looks great though

http://www.j00.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/truck1.JPG

[pinky8u]

hey, Im going camping tommorow. Anyone know what tires I should get?:confused:

[jdm3849]

Where are you gonna be camping? I would get dirt hawg 2's. There all around good.

[pinky8u]

Im going to lake casitas in california. and thanks for the info, I was going to go to the hobby shop right know.

THANKS!!!:)

[Prinler]

Man that lake blows! No fish and bad boating. and no shade so bad camping. Make a Trip up alittle farther and goto Lake Nosimiento or san antonio. Alittle farther but man are they awsome!!! and Lake lopez even. They got water slides! HEHE and lots of nice Jumps :)

[quadna71]

i'd go with the dirt hawgs in back but maybe stick to ribs in the front. my dirt hawgs don't seem to turn the best in the dirt. i started measuring my turns with full throttle - suprisingly, the original ribs turned the tightest. they beat out my masher 2000's (expected that one though), my dirt hawgs, and my newer proline ribs that i got. just my thoughts...oh, but the masher's rock on the back!!! they puff up at full rpm just like quarter mile drag racer's tires do!!! have fun.

p.s. not to boost jep_rc's ego, but his stuff rocks. i've been running with his bumper and front braces for a few weeks now - serious protection. head on collisions (all the time :() and all i get is a cool reverse bounce back. money well spent in my book. the plastic parts may be stress-tech covered but the time for shipping sucks. this way i don't break anymore parts :) later...

[sycotikskir]

hey guys I was just at the local hobby shop and got a new body for my truck. Its the Pro Line Crowd Pleazer. I haven;t gotten it cut out and painted yet but they said it should fit. I need to wait for the new chassis to come in. The darn thing snapped in half AGAIN! I guess hitting jobs at full throttle isn't oo great of an idea.

HAve u guys seen the article a while ago in R/c Car action were the guy jumped his station wagon??? I made that look like nothing. Worked great until i couldn't the the front end to lift in the air on the like 50th try and I snapped it in half. O well atleast replacements are free.


PS the P2k pro motor is amazing!

[Prinler]

My review so far. I recived my car today fedex. Opened it to find out the car is put togeather and all scratched up. The diff's barring shot, Slipper tightened down more then max and well so far i have ran head on into a curb and smacked the bulk head and WOW NOTHING HAPPENED go figure. Smacked the side of my wheele and broke the bead on my cones ( well the out side part )
Man i dont get this. Im not even jumping or anything. Maybe i should go buy a T3 These evaders dont stand up to much. Maybe it is cause i got some used one from tower. Think i should send it back? i asked for New and they game me broken. Oh shocks are bent too. ARG im venting sorry everyone. :)

Steve

[davebirt]

Dont stand up to much? LOL
I use mine almost exclusivly for AIR and 99% of the landings are in a paved lot. Most jumps are in the 3-4 foot range, and several of them have resulted in end over end tumbles. Only casualties so far are a few body clips.

[Prinler]

Oh man I just ran mine into the ground. Went 6 inch's and hit a curb. Broken Shocks broken the servo mounts off the body and broke the Bulk head and the part that holds the bulk head on the top to the chassie. Im pist. This is a POS tower sent me but still :) If mine breaks like that im gonna go ape on someone :) hehe No LHS so it will take weeks for shipping my parts :( Anyone have any extra aLuminum Bulk heads? heh

[pinky8u]

hey prinler, your right!!! NO DAM FISH!!!![/SIZE] I hate that lake,aagghhh. hey but the tires worked good. there was a lot of mud, and moist dirt. and were are some good tracks near orange?:confused:

[Prinler]

Orange? City of? ot County?

[pinky8u]

sorry,;) orange county, california close to LA

[Orbit]

Hello. I'm fairly new to the RC scene, and I've got a question about my Evader ST. I've had it for about two weeks now, and everything has been great with the truck and I've had no problems at all.

However, today while running the truck, I noticed that whenever I applied throttle, no matter how much, the rear of the truck makes a clicking noise. It didnt appear to affect performance at all, but it did get louder as I ran it. I've checked the diff screw, and tightened it all the way, then back 1/8 a turn like the manual says, and checked out the slipper clutch as well and everything seemed ok with that. When I took it out again to run it, it still had the clicking noise, only slightly louder. Again, performance seemed to be the same as always.

So, what gives? Did I blow out my diff? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

[jdm3849]

Dont worry,your diff. is fine,your slipper is fine too. I would guess that there is a small rock inbetween the spur and pinion.

[sycotikskir]

Hey have any of you guys tried to use any other bodies other than the stock body for their evaders??

[jdm3849]

I personally hav'nt but i know alot of people that have used matt francis's body.

[sycotikskir]

I bought a Crowd Pleazer body over the weekend but I have to wait until i get my new chassis before I can paint it and cut it out and all that stuff

[TeamMishap]

I must be a lucky Evader owner. I've had mine for maybe two months now and beat the s@*% out of it and can't break it. Yeah, I've lost some body clips, but none since going with the BRP Locking Body Clips and had my battery packs slide out from under the strap, but have yet to break anything. My brother-ln-law blew out a shock on his Traxxas Stampede this weekend and I didn't break squat.

Of course, by posting this, I'm due a cataclysmic crash.

Once my pay gets squared away I'm going to buy some stuff
- Chameleon 2 Pro or P2K2 Pro (don't know which yet)
- Robinson Pinion set
- Team Orion Stick Pack Discharger
- (2) 6cell 2400 battery packs - not ready to spend the big $ yet

Anyone have any suggestions on what else I might like?

[Prinler]

Dude Get on ebay now! lol I payed $30 shipped for 4 2400 batteries BRAND NEW!
Check it out! EVERYONE! a must have! This guy has 20 cases. 2000 packs of these so WATCH EBAY!

[Darth Evader]

Like many others here I am new to RC and new to the Evader and I have a few questions about the Evader and general issues. I have read through this entire thread, but I really haven't seen specific answers to these questions:

1). After 5 battery packs, I burned the knobs off of my rear tires by driving the Evader in my street and around a little league field diamond. What would be a good set of tires to replace the stocks...that would grab better and last longer?

2). After driving on the baseball diamond today my car is really dusty and dirty, especially around the rear end. What should I do to take care of the motor and gears at this point?...Should I spray rubbing alcohol on it and blow it out with compressed air?

3). How many runs can I expect the stock Photon motor to last for? Do I need to take it apart to clean it regularly?

4). When should I make the adjustments to the ball differential?...my vehicle hasn't started squeeling as the manual said it would. Should I adjust it now anyway?

5). I have a 2400 mAh battery and a Piranah Peak Power charger. The charger says that it is only good to 2000 mAh. Do you think I am going to damage the battery or the charger by using this combination? I am able to run the vehicle for about 20 minutes at full speed.

6). I bought a Futaba controller that came with 2 S3003 servos. One of the servos will not let me align the servo arm straight. It is either too far left or too far right. The other servo let me center the cervo arm properly so that I can use the servo trim adjusters on the controller. Is there anyway that I can adjust the servo itself?

Any help is appreciated.

[Prinler]

1: Dirt Hawgs or street hawgs!!! :)
2) get motor spray for the motor. That will help keep the motor free from dirt. as for the rest use compressed air.
3) it depends. If you use a com stick to clean the Com every once in awhile, Spray it out and keep the brushes in good shape then there really isnt any reson it should go out. Enless it overheats or soemthing generally goes wrong.
4) whe you first get your evader you should have tightened it alot. It comes very loose. You need to ajust it down quite a bit and let your slipper do the slipping.
5) as for the charger you should be ok. The 400 mAh difference wont hurt it to bad. The charger is only charging them at 2000 so in the end/ long run you might experience some problems. But for now. HAVE FUN! :) oh and breaks lots of parts :) j/k
6) Hell if i know. There isnt anything wrong with the stock servos so i dunno :)
Peace y'all
Steve P

[brazilnut]

HELLO FELLOW NEWBIES, I ALSO AM A RECENT MEMBER, AND THIS IS A VERY INFORMATIVE SITE. THERE ARE PEOPLE HERE WITH MUCH MORE EXPERIENCE THAN I, BUT I WILL STILL SHARE WHAT I HAVE LEARNED.
DARTH EVADER HAS SOME GOOD QUESTIONS. I WORE OUT THE STOCK TIRES QUICKLY (RUNNING ON PAVEMENT), AND HAVE REPLACED THEM WITH SOME PRO-LINE GLADIATORS, AND THEY HAVE BEEN VERY GOOD ON OR OFF ROAD. THE OLD TIRES ARE GLUED VERY WELL, SO I HAD TO BUY SOME NEW WHEELS, TOO.
KEEP A SMALL FAN ON YOUR CHARGER TO KEEP IT COOL AND YOU SHOULD HAVE NO PROBLEMS WITH YOUR 24OO BATTS.
THE STOCK MOTOR WILL DO FOR A WHILE, BUT THERE ARE MUCH BETTER REPLACEMENTS. A CHAMELEON 2 MOTOR IS GOOD IF YOU KEEP THE SAME ESC. (IT IS ONLY RATED FOR A 20T MOTOR). THE 19T CHAMELEON WILL WORK WITH IT, BUT WATCH FOR OVERHEATING. KEEP YOUR MOTOR CLEAN WITH MOTOR SPRAY, AND YOUR BEARINGS OILED. DRESS YOUR COMM. YOU CAN ALSO REBUILD THE MOTOR EASILY WITH REPLACEMENT BRUSHES, BEARINGS AND NEW ARMATURES. I AM RUNNING A SPEED GEMS 17T SINGLE, AND A FUTABA MC330 ESC.

[Darth Evader]

Thanks for the help both of you.

I am going to buy some new wheels for the front and rear. Can you tell me if the following choices will work with the Evader? Here is what I picked from Tower Hobbies:

-LXRD76 HPI MT Mesh Wheels Rear 2WD Truck Black

-LXRD73 HPI MT Mesh Wheels Front 2WD Truck Black

For tires I am thinking about getting the Dirt Hawgs because I will be mostly driving in grass, soil, and sometimes pavement. Should I change the front tires to something else besides ribs so that it will be easier to control when I am on pavement? What about putting Dirt Hawgs on the back and Road Hawgs on the front?

Also, why is this P2KPRO faster than the stock photon? I thought that the less turns, the more speed.

[pudder]

That is really too bad that these trucks have such breakable plastic. I bet anything that DuraTrax would make more money if they could actually make a good plastic instead of constantly replacing parts and shippiniong out, it would also save all the users headaches too.

I am glad I have switched to Team Associated, I have only broken one part on a bad landing, and have had crashes that would have totaled my Evader.

Just too bad, Evaders are very good on the track, if only they would hold up longer...

[jdm3849]

I am glad that I now have switched to a TEAM LOSI!! because they are the best!! And the evader is a replica of a losi!!!

[Prinler]

LXEV25 ok tower's site. This is a front bumper for the evader. Hope this helps.

[pudder]

Good Job JDM-What Losi did yo uget? I was going for either Losi or AE, picked AE because there seems to be parts for AE floating around everywhere around here, and my friend that lives in town has a T3 also. :)

[jdm3849]

I got a nitro because none of my friends have electrics,and there's many outdoor tracks around here. Oh yea its a X-NT.
IMO Losi and Associated are the best,I was either going to get a GT or the X-NT but because my LHS has more losi parts i decided to get that.

[Prinler]

TRAITORS!!!!! j/k

What do you guys think of a 13 turn tripple in an evader? Think i will kill myself? oh and what is good gearing for this.

[popee]

I just got a RC10GT sport with Dynamite 12S Engine , tuned pipe, K & N air filter, Fuel filters etc. Next upgrade.... ballraces Picture is below. Aint painted the shell yet, got silver blue and white and black, any ideas?

[Prinler]

This is the Evader Forums Why do you all keep posting about other cars! :( BOO BOO :) Sorry if im rude. Still hung over from my 21st B-Day party at the local pub.

[Prinler]

ok on a 15 turn motor what pinion do you use?

[popee]

Id go with somthinfg like a 15-18, im not a speed freak, i like my cars too alst and id rather finish races than crashing because i cant handle my car or the batterys dump. BTW I didnt know they had pubs in USA, only the UK lol :)

[Prinler]

O'Grady's pub down the street from me. Nice place. Ok my car comes with an 18 Pinion. so i should be ok? i was told something like 1 tooth per motor turn. so like a 15 would be a 15. + - a few teeth. I want speed so i can learn how to handle it :) While it is still under its one year replacement :) /wink/wink

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

this is sweet.. my friend placed an order for a RTR Evader.:)

[Darth Evader]

I now have 4 Dirt Hawgs on new rims and it drives soooo much better now! Thanks guys!

Here are some more questions:

1). I am noticing that my Evader is starting to sputter and at the same time the lights are going from green to red. What could be causing this?

2). When you guys say that I need to make sure that the bearings are lubricated...which bearings are you referring to?...the wheel bearings, the bearings in the crank-case? If it is the crank-case, how often will I need to take it apart?

3). Also