Duratrax Evader ST Forum v2.0

[pudder]

I just dont like it, I am not saying it sucks, I just dont like it.

[p.n.e]

Originally posted by TeamMishap
I like the fade idea. (Typing in my best Forrest Gump dialect) I like it alot. Problem is, I have NO CLUE how to do it. The only airbrushing I did was to put the FasGlitter on. Everything else was using an old-fashioned paintbrush. This point in the project, I don't want to ruin it. I do like the fade idea. Hmmm.

paint the whole door white first, then tape up everything cept the door, get your air brush with red and sort of come at it at an angle. say this is the door from top view | spray like this | \ and just use short light sprays till u get it just right. u can always sand it off and paint over it if u mess up :)

[p.n.e]

:confused: , sorry i just thought of something, are you painting it from the inside of the body? that makes it a bit different.. what i said was for painting from the outside (sorry, i never paint my bodies) if u want to paint from the inside u do the same but apply the red first and fade to clear, then when its dry use the white paint on the clear area. should work! :D

[p.n.e]

by the way, does anyone know how to get these E clips off?!?! i was doing some burn outs today and something went wrong, my evader wouldnt turn right anymore. even when i switched it off and tried to turn it with my hands it would go and then spring bak. ??! help?

[pudder]

I made my own special tool. :)

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by pudder
k_sw31-that is sick, not the good kind either :(

And this coming from a guy who steals street signs for scrap aluminum. :rolleyes: jkg:p

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by pudder
You may encounter many issues when trying to use this chassis. It would probably be better to get a sheet of aluminum and make templates for the screws, and make your chassis that way. Know what an easy way to get aluminum is?; You know those things called "road signs"? They are made out of I think it is 2-3mm aluminum, good stuff, just take a sign and cut your piece out. To take the flourescent tape off, I just heated up the sign with my heat gun and it makes the tape glue all runny, took a putty knife and scraped it on. I was left with some white sticky glue, which I just sanded off. :) It is a lot of work, but it is free, and when you live in the country like I do, it is easy to get away with. ;)

[pudder]

Ya, gotta get aluminum somewhere. As long as you're having fun with that thing of a body, dont let me ruin it be a stupid comment.

[p.n.e]

isnt that kind of dangerous? hope you didnt remove a vital sign...lol ;)

[pudder]

They were already knocked down.

[k_sw31]

right, pudder. ;)

evry things fine

[Prinler]

White or Blue! what one is - and + ? on the esc? i cant find any docs on this!!!! HELP hehe

[k_sw31]

i'm pretty sure white is pausitive and blue is negative.
The worst that can happen is your motor will spin backwards (i think)

[ronbeck]

prinler

blue is negative. what kind of esc is it?

and anyone had good luck with the intellispeed 16turn mld mod?
it's what they sent to replace my sprint esc.

[pudder]

Yup, white is + and blue -, usually it is the lighter color is positive and darker negative. :) The ESC has protection for that too if it is for your batt, but I believe that the motr wires are the ones blue and white.

[Archerboi]

I was thinking getting this truck, and was wondering did anyone put monster tread tires on it, I just want to use it to bash around. I know that you should drop a pinion size or 2. Thanks.

[pudder]

I dont know of anyone doing that to an Evader but stick with ST tires, you will get better reslts, if you must get some dirt hawgs, but that is as far as I would go for bashing tires.

[TeamMishap]

I give up. Here's the done deal. Still have the side window masks on.

Found I have a broken rim. RPM Slingshot rims and Dirt Hawg meats, here I come.

[TeamMishap]

Helps if I attach the pic, eh?

[ronbeck]

teamMishap
i like the paint job. i try much simpler schemes and they don't turn out that nice.

[p.n.e]

this might be a stupid question but what the heck, did any of you get this red ribbon with a clip in your evader box? i have one and dont have a clue what its for :confused:

[pudder]

I think it is for the radio antenna to put on ther to tell what frequency it is or soemthing, I have never seen one used thoug.

[p.n.e]

and btw, mishap, if u thought the door was too white, maybe u could put the word avalanches on it? like a sticker would be real easy. just a thought :rolleyes:

[p.n.e]

golly you're right pudder! fits on the end of the antenna.....looks *** as hell tho...:D never seen anyone with them b4 either

[kitty]

p.n.e - I use a dental pick to remove e-clips. You have to be careful when removing them or you'll spend a bit of time looking for them. I put a little piece of tape on the edge of mine before removing so they won't fly too far.

Two places I buy a few tools here and there are Widget Supply (http://www.widgetsupply.com) and Freedom Enterprises (http://freedomky.safeshopper.com). They both also sell stuff on that certain "auction" site whose URLs get automagically edited on this forum ;)

They both sell a lot of tools that are handy for pretty much any hobby, including inexpensive Dremel stuff (both brand name and generic).

[TeamMishap]

PNE - that same AVALANCHE idea came to me last night. Gonna run it along the bottom of the doors in red. May put a blue snowflake in the white near the top of the blue chevron.

Cripes, I'll never want to use the body now.

[p.n.e]

haha, i know what you mean, maybe put it in a glass showcase for a few weeks first? jk :D

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by kitty
p.n.e - I use a dental pick to remove e-clips. You have to be careful when removing them or you'll spend a bit of time looking for them. I put a little piece of tape on the edge of mine before removing so they won't fly too far.


Yea, they work great.

[pudder]

what I did for my eclip puller was took a flathead screwdriver and ground down the tip so it was like this: \/ except it had a tiny flat spot on the end, excellent for pulling eclips. :)

[enemy_spike]

hey does anyone here realize that this is the biggest thread in the electric off-road forum? that means the evader is hella popular:D

[p.n.e]

good truck, good value, theres no reason y it shouldnt be popular!:D

[k_sw31]

ya, they're fun to destroy, especialy when they're not your ;)

[k_sw31]

*yours

[k_sw31]

hey ronbeck, do you know of any off road track by redmond (me and spike are just outside of redmond)

[ronbeck]

k_sw31
the only one i know of is maxx land.
they have a site link on redmondhobbies.com

the only one i know.
i go to a local t-ball feild were they are putting in a soccer feild.
lots of dirt, gravel, and sand hills to go big on.
:o)

[k_sw31]

cool

[ronbeck]

k_sw31

hope it helps.:D

[k_sw31]

wait, i can't find the link, where is it?

[ronbeck]

whoops they took it off??
aera 52 link is an off road area too.
email redmond hobbies they may have info on maxxland.

[k_sw31]

i found it, cool, they're right in carnation, never new about them.

[pudder]

Originally posted by k_sw31
ya, they're fun to destroy, especialy when they're not your ;)

You DO know there is an edit button on here right? :rolleyes:

[p.n.e]

i didnt...thx!:D

[k_sw31]

yeah, i'm not htat dummmmmmmmm ;) jking

[enemy_spike]

actually you are pretty dumb:rolleyes:

[k_sw31]

well, smarter than you.

[hooked911]

I have a buddy that has an evader and he is wanting to know if anybody has part numbers for a graphite shock towers and idler gear?? any that will work will be fine. It does not have to be duratrax parts. Thanks

[wgnfrk]

hey peeps gotta a t3 rtr that im lookin to sell but i dont know what they are worth this is what i got:
t3 rtr bought new in july/with hitec radio
dynamite vision peak charger ac/dc
1 dynamite 1500 pack
1 team orion 2400 pack
has upgraded bearings in front and has a hitec 625 in it (steel gear)
black death comm drops come with and misc hardware and a rpm cover without screws. old servo goes with car
:confused:

[pudder]

Post in the for sale thread and say "make an offer"

[p.n.e]

does anyone here have p2k2 pro? is there a big difference between run times with a stock? what pinion should i use for max speed? max torque? what pitch is stock pinion?

[pudder]

I did race a p2k 2 pro for a long time in both my T3 and Evader, it was a very nice motor but it blew up on me a few weeks ago, I got a Reedy MVP for replacement and I like it better than the P2k it seems to have more torque and speed, but it may just be this particular motor, they are all different.

I would g ofor it and you will probably keep the stock gearing, but you would find that out by running it, you need to find the fine line between power and speed so that it will have good performance, good runtime, and won't heat up the motor too much.

[p.n.e]

pudder:

how long have you had the p2k2 before it blew up? was it unintentional or because of lack of matinence, etc? :confused:
also, will i need anything else along with the new motor? wire, soldering iron, connectors?

[pudder]

I have no clue why it blew up on me, I take good care of my stuff so I know it wasn't matenence, maybe something got into it, not too sure, I wouldn't worry about it if I were you.

You will need just solder and a soldering gun to install your new motor.

[p.n.e]

thanks a lot pudder, i sort of have a limited choice in motors because my lhs is a big trinity dealer, doesnt stock much else. but soldering iron my dad has, so off i got to the lhs tmr.

[ayk_driver]

is the motormount/heat sink good at keeping the motor kewl?

[pudder]

Is it like a separate heat sink thing? You really shouldnt need one because your motor shouldnt get to that hot point anyways.

[p.n.e]

I think he is referring to the hopup motor-mount that has 11 heat fins on it. By the looks of it, I dont think it would help heat much, the fins look really tiny by the pic, and doesn't increase the surface area by much. IMO its a pretty retarded idea, they could have make a heatsink/ motor guard that would be a lot more effective.

http://www.duratrax.com/caraccys/dtxc7980a-2.jpg

[pudder]

I like what associated did with the T3 and B3 cars; the motor mount IS part of the motor gaurd, and the rear chassis plate is also aluminum and bolted right to the motor mount/gaurd so it REALLY takes away heat good. Sadly to see they will be replacing the rear chassis plate and motor gaurd with plastic ones on the B4 and T4. :(

[k_sw31]

yeah, but it looks like the plastic ones give enuf clearance to use heatsinks i think.

[ayk_driver]

i have one for the t3/b3 but its to small :(

[sycotikskir]

is there a way i can make my evader have a brake instead of reverse? I think thatd be really nice to have

[pudder]

Your ESC (sprint) does have a little bit of brake, not much to be very effective though. Reversible ESC's really don't have brakes, unless you get a forward only.

[Aluma]

well, when i saw that "hopup heatsink" i figured it didnt work as well as the plate thats on it from the start. anodizing doesn't exactly help dissipate the heat, so i just sanded the plate to get more "open area" for cooling. just ran my evader again at the races and i switched to an cheapo radio and rx, boy i was glitchin BAD! it would get to the point where it would just spin and go this way, hit something and go another way.... some guys thought i was doing it on purpose :D awww heck, i had fun :D

but through it all, nothing broke, hitting pipes and jumping and cartwheels, everything! :D go go evader!

Hey pudder, do you use the original shocks? or did ya put on some GOOD ones? i got green springs up front and white outback, but they dont seem to make any difference. whats a good setup camber, toe,... this thing dont come with any racing setups.

[pudder]

Talking about my Evader? Well I kept the stock shocks, and springs. I dont even run my Evader anymore, but I ran it stock shocks, they worked great for me.

[p.n.e]

i got a ton of glitching today too, i was driving it in the basement, and was turning to avoid the wall when it full throttles on me, even when i was applying the brake. (straight into a chair) it is also starting to sputter on me when backing up. i reset the esc and all but no help. plus, i cant seem to get the evader to go in a straight line! is this unusual? anyone else have this problem? it was like this out of the box, i have adjusted the toe in to death and the trim too. It wasnt sloppy adjustments either, i was moving the trim about 1/10ths of a mm to adjust it. it still veers off to the left or the right after about 10-15 feet. i've checked the shock mountings and everything is the same on both sides.. help??


maybe i'll get a super rooster to replace the stock esc, its too dark to inspect the car at this hour so i'll check it over tommorow for damage.

[ronbeck]

had simillar prob with cuz's evader was a combo of the diff needing rebuild and needing new motor brushes.

also check transmitter beatteries.

[jep_rc]

p.n.e. -

I had a glitching problem with my Evader after I first got it. Couldn't figure it out for the longest time, then I realized it was the batteries in the transmitter going intermittent .

I finally figured it out when I noticed the transmitter LED flickering. I could bang the bottom of the transmitter and make it glitch every time. I fixed it by lightly sanding all the battery ends on the batteries, sanding the battery clips in the transmitter, and extending the battery springs so the batteries were trapped more tightly.

Jep

[p.n.e]

Jep-
The light isnt flickering and my batteries are high quality energizer niMHs, i charge them every few runs. maybe i'll try sanding the contacts like you said.

[enemy_spike]

it is probably your brushes, i noticed that the stock brushes wore out really fast comparedc to with other brushes :mad:

[k_sw31]

yeah, and you did use wd-40 to break in the brushes, i dont think tha helps.

[kitty]

Originally posted by Aluma
anodizing doesn't exactly help dissipate the heat
On the contrary, it does. In the anodising process, the metal is basically etched in an acid bath prior to the colour process. However, the amount of heat disspiated by anodising on something that small would be negligible.

Overall, for something that small, anodising is more eye candy than functional. I just ordered a snap-on heat sink that's meant for an RC boat motor. It was pretty cheap compared to some of the others I spotted on Tower's site. I'll let you guys know how well it works once I put it to the test. If it seems to help, I plan to buy a few more and have them re-anodised (they come in black). For the eye candy appeal, of course ;)

[guver]

anyone else bending kingpins on the evader? I have bent about 6 of them probably from jumping-ha ha. I cant seem to find any titanium yet to make new ones, how about it? does anyone know of any ti kingpins?

[ronbeck]

duratrax offers a set. #dtx8206.
my lhs some times has to order parts more then once for the evader. high demand,,,

[k_sw31]

yeah, you'd think the hobbytown would start carrying duratrax stuff too, they'd get a lot of bisnuiss (yes, its spelled wrong)

[ronbeck]

most hobby shops dont carry dtx becouse of graet planes dist.
:(
my lhs says it's easyer working with the mob.
:D

[pudder]

Originally posted by k_sw31
yeah, you'd think the hobbytown would start carrying duratrax stuff too, they'd get a lot of bisnuiss (yes, its spelled wrong)

First; it is spelled business. :)

Second; that is kind of weird that they aren't supporting DTX. I was in a hobbytown in the USA a while ago and they had upgrades for their vehicles, may have changed by now though since that was over a year ago.

In Canada we dont have hobbytown, which is sort of a good thing because here we mostly have small partnership businesses (if any of you know what that means) or family businesses for the hobby shops, better than Hobbytown I think because you get good service. :)

[k_sw31]

See, what i'm talking about, redmond hobbies, they carry the dtx parts, but from what I hear, they get sold out quite frequently. And the hobbytown, which is about 3 mins away, If they would carry dtx stuff, they could make a big profit too.

[kitty]

I feel your pain...

None of the hobby shops around here (greater Austin, TX area) sell Duratrax stuff. It's all Associated, Traxxas, and the occasional Ofna or Losi box on the shelves. One place sells a few outdated parts for Duratrax stuff (obsolete vehicles) but is going to get rid of all that. One place told me that Duratrax stuff just doesn't sell. I find that very hard to believe. So for me it's either Tower Hobbies or try to find parts that will retrofit with a little modifying.

::sigh::

[pudder]

You'd like my hobby shop then... they have bins full of Evader parts!, and as any good shop shoudl, a wall or two of AE stuff. :D

[p.n.e]

going to the lhs tmr, so i need fast advice. i was thinkin of gettin a p2k2 does the top speed decrease because im going to a 27T? and will it have enough power to wheelie? from what i've read on this thread i'm going to get either a speed gems 17 turn or a p2k2, either way i want some extra speed without have to buy a new esc. this is sort of confusing because there are two speed gems 17 T for sale.

one is Speedgem 2 Sapphire 17T Single
the other is Speedgem 2003 Pro Amber 17T Db

is there a difference between the two besides one is pro the other is not and one is double wind? i was thinking maybe one is older but they are both the same price.

p2k2- around a 21 tooth pinion
17T- a 19 tooth pinion

am i correct?

thanks guys

[kitty]

Hiya over here too, p.n.e. =)

Your overall speed should increase with a P2K2 over the stock motor. Remember reading that I bought a Green Machine 3 Pro? It's in the same category as the P2K2 (stock motor) and it's much faster than the stock Photon Speed.

If I recall correctly, the Speed Gems 17T double should have more torque, which is what you are looking for. The way I remember it all is lower winds = more speed, more strands (double, triple) gives more torque. I could be wrong though. I just noticed that it's nearly 4am.

Just in case you see this before you see my post on this subject on Hobbytalk, go with a smaller pinion for the P2K2 for more torque. For the Speed Gems 17T I suggest a 17t or 18t pinion or even 16t for that extra torque.

I just ordered a cheapie Peak Jaguar 17x2 (17 turn double) just to see how much torque I can squeeze out of it with a 16t pinion.

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by p.n.e
going to the lhs tmr, so i need fast advice. i was thinkin of gettin a p2k2 does the top speed decrease because im going to a 27T? and will it have enough power to wheelie? from what i've read on this thread i'm going to get either a speed gems 17 turn or a p2k2, either way i want some extra speed without have to buy a new esc. this is sort of confusing because there are two speed gems 17 T for sale.

one is Speedgem 2 Sapphire 17T Single
the other is Speedgem 2003 Pro Amber 17T Db

is there a difference between the two besides one is pro the other is not and one is double wind? i was thinking maybe one is older but they are both the same price.

p2k2- around a 21 tooth pinion
17T- a 19 tooth pinion

am i correct?

thanks guys

Well, i would get the speed gems pro 17 turn amber. Basically because you'd have just as much torque, well, maybe a little less, as a p2k2, But then you have a lot more rpms, giving you a higher top speed, plus the big brush benefits, bearings etc.

If you gonna get the speed gems 2, don't get the 17 single, get the 19 turn double, i own both, and, the 19 by 2 has more torque, rpms, and runtime than the 17 turn.

[p.n.e]

thanks very much k_sw31 and kitty.


k_sw1- would i see that much of a speed increase tho if i am going from 20 turn to 19 turn? i assume the speedgems is a much higher quality motor than the photon and that would be why, but just confirming. How much top speed did you gain?

Kitty-sorry to keep you up so late :o I think im going to buy that robinsons odd pack of pinions. 15 17 19 21 etc. that way i can experiment a little.

--edit--
after calling the lhs they said they didnt have a 17Turn double. plus after running my evader around in the basement today i noticed the esc was pretty warm, almost hot, i think i better not risk a 17 turn. I emailed duratrax and they said 20 limit.

so its down to this..
p2k2 pro
green machine 3 pro

am i missing something? do i need some 12 gauge wire?, a pair of bullet connectors? anything?
thx!

[k_sw31]

Well, i think you'd see about 5-10 mph speed increase with stock gearing, its really surprising how punchy those 19x2's are.

It's just a better built motor, plus, you haves bearings, adjustable timing, etc.

[TeamMishap]

For my Chameleon Pro 2, I converted to full Deans connectors with 12 gauge wire (didn't 12 ga the ESC, I'm not a great solderer) and got the Robinson's Pinion set. BTW the Robinson's pinions rust if you even think about moisture. Everything is nice and cool.

[p.n.e]

Originally posted by TeamMishap
BTW the Robinson's pinions rust if you even think about moisture.

rust? wouldnt a little bit of grease prevent that

[k_sw31]

i dunno, but i use the aluminum superlite pinions, they're hard coated, VERY light, and don't rust.

[kitty]

I'm not worried about rusting a pinion. They're cheap. Plus I clean the pinion/spur area out after every bash-fest to remove any schmutz that gets inside that cheap plastic cover.

I've been considering the aluminum ones you mentioned, though. For the money, they aren't that much more, they're lighter and darnit they're PURPLE! (my favourite colour).

Thanks for the tip on the SG 19x2. I've been eyeing that one lately, but for now I'm thinking about playing with what I have now and start saving up for an E-Maxx to bash with and, of course, do wheelies. I'll be making a wheelie bar for my baby bro's Maxx this week so he can replace his rear bumper and get a new body on his. He has scraped the bumper and ripped a few spots in the body he has on it now from doing wheelies (not to mention losing tons of clips). He wants a Hummer body and I don't want him to mess it up as much =)

[pudder]

BTW the Robinson's pinions rust if you even think about moisture. Everything is nice and cool. [/B]

I dont know how you get yours to rust, but I have been using robinson pinions for years, the steel ones, and even submerged in water and they keep on trucking.

[TeamMishap]

I guess I shouldn't be Jesusing my Evader. Trying to run it across the top of water isn't good for the iron oxide prone metals is it. I must admit, I'm not as tidy with my EVST as I should be.

[p.n.e]

a little saran wrap or a plastic bag with an elastic does wonders for water

[ayk_driver]

hey kitty did that clip on heat sink work on the motor u had?

[TeamMishap]

Saw on the DTX page they have swaybars for front and back. What are they? What do they replace? What do they do?

[enemy_spike]

well obviously the swaybars are just that, swaybars. DUH! but i dont think they rreplace anything and if they do it shouldnt matter(unless you have some hop-ups) and swaybars keep the truck from rolling, or swaying, i dont think you will really need them unless you have bigger tires (mashers/dirt hawgs)and a faster motor.

[enemy_spike]

Originally posted by p.n.e
a little saran wrap or a plastic bag with an elastic does wonders for water

what do you mean? do you mean around the battery and ESC? or what :confused:

[kitty]

Re: sway bars. I agree that they are unnecessary unless you've made some serious tweaks and are getting too much roll on turns. To me, they're just something they made to get more money out of us (like the $20+ motor mount heat sink). Don't even get me started on the wallet molestation they want for aluminum bulkheads.

I'm running Dirt Hawgs right now and the only problem I have is when the pavement is slightly damp and they hit a dry spot, making my truck roll over on its back. I'm using the wide offset HPI rims, better shock oil and a few minor tweaks and even with a better motor, I still have no use for sway bars.

Re: plastic wrapping components. The only part I can see wrapping in plastic would be the receiver. The ESC needs air to cool it; same goes for the motor. Evaders weren't meant to be submarines.

[pudder]

I agree that swaybars are prettymuch obsolete for trucks, for me anyways. For winter racing, we all race on a carpet track with our trucks with foams, insane grip, but if you have stiff springs, right there, your truck won't have any body roll anyways.

[p.n.e]

regarding saran wrapping, i do it when i drive thru puddles etc. i take a roll of saran wrap from dollar store or something and wrap the entire middle of the chassis, everything between the front and rear wheels. then a plastic baggy over the engine and a rubber band to keep it on. u have to be careful not to catch it on the moving parts, and to cover the esc and motor quite well but it kept my evader bone dry in pretty rainy weather. As for cooling, i wouldnt recommed it if it was hot out or if your esc and motor run pretty hot. i assume if its going to get wet chances are its raining out or its in the winter and you are running in snow. then you shouldnt have any problems with heat.

[pudder]

Just to let you know, running your motor in water won't kill it, I wouldnt submerge it, but getting it wet won't kill your stuff. :)

[Jeff82]

Ok, my first mistake was purchasing a used Evader, which has turned out to be a very used and abused vehicle. Anyway, after fixing the differential, replacing the idler gear, and properly setting the slipper clutch, I ran into a new problem. I suspect the ESC is shot. Often the truck will not accelerate at all when the battery is initially turned on. I can hear a some power going to the motor, but just not enough. Usually, after a few minutes it will take off. I figure I'm getting a top speed of about 12 mph at this point. After about five minutes of running the speed really slows down, then all power it lost (except to the steering servo). When I change batteries the car won't run at all.

I did check out and clean the motor, so I'm thinking this is an ESC that's dying. Does this sound like the case?

Secondly, I'm wondering what speed people are getting with the stock Evader on asphalt. Seems that 12 mph is pretty slow.

Thanks for your input,

--Jeff

[benjermaine]

with a novak dually esc(no motor limit) how fast and how long run time do yall think my evader will go....not many hopups on my car either...also what hopups do u guys think i should get for my car thanx alot!!

[benjermaine]

o wait hehe i forgot something.... with a p2k2 pro how fast with all that stuff from above....sorry lol

[benjermaine]

is that a orion rush motor i see in that picture mr. redbeck??

[ayk_driver]

im lookin' into a new motor and a clip on heat sink.... the 3 motors i like so far r the peak Jaguar 19 turn double...a team orion rush 19 double and a trinity speed gems 19 turn double... which is best for the evader and i wanna stay with the stock gearing...

also what is a good shock oil for stiffer suspension... i dont like how soft the evader is when stock...

one other thing.... does a clip on heat sink work on the evader? if so which wood be best for it cuz i dont like hot motors :(

thanx gals and guys!

[p.n.e]

jeff82 you are aware that the first 2 seconds immediatly after u turn on the esc and radio is the setup time for the esc right? dont pull the throttle right after you turn it on, wait about 4-5 seconds. when the batts are low the esc automatically stops the motor, its like some safety feature to keep your car from running away. did you try a new pack? maybe you arent charging it to full. stock should go 22 mph.

pudder, i just found that out yesterday too, im not sure if its for real or not, some guy said people submerge their motors in water when they are breaking them in. wouldnt the water short out the motor? or cause rust?

i also heard of people using aluminum idler gears, with a lot of grease. they say it shouldnt be a problem for the radio either. any thoughts on this?

[benjermaine]

yes i knew that and where did that come from..hehe....i didnt say that none of it worked...just said i was gettin new equip. but thanks for the reality check:p

[p.n.e]

ah..oops..sorry, i meant jeff82, must have looked down a post :o, completely ignore that. dually with a p2k2 should have a lot better runtime than stock. speed will also increase a bit

[kitty]

Stock ESC: In my opinion, it's crap. Mine poofered on me within six runs. I replaced it with a Rooster Reversible (there are cheaper and equally good ESCs out there if you don't want reverse - I lock mine out now anyway).

Motor Heat Sink: Though it has shorter "fins" on it, I bought one made for a Traxxas Blast boat (Tower # LXJD94 $3.89 - a lot cheaper than those fancy-schmancy blue ones). It was too wide to mount on my motor without blocking the vents, so I cut it in half. It'll just fit under the motor guard, but I'm planning on modifying that a little anyway heh

Shock Oil: Forget the stuff that your Evader came with. One of the first things I learned from the guys around here is to replace it with at least 30wt. Brand doesn't matter as long as it's silicone shock oil made for RC vehicles and not motor oil (I've read a few stories about guys trying to save money using it, believe it or not). With what I learned from the guys, I replaced my shock oil with 30wt and bought a set of white springs. I put the original springs back on the rear because I am doing a few tweaks so I can get the front end off the ground ;)

Water Bath Motor Break-In: I've read a bit about that. It's a common practice in Asia where a lot of guys race Auldey cars (Race Tin on up to 1:10 scale). It does something to the magnets in the motor. If you have a quality motor, in my opinion, you don't need to do that. Good brushes and a clean motor are better from the git-go.

Oh yeah, I got all my parts now. Tonight I'll be replacing the bent camber rod and kingpin (already replaced the shock end and front arm), soldering a Dean's connector on my new 17x2 Jaguar, and doing a few tweaks as per someone's suggestions. I apologise for not giving proper credit, but I can't remember exactly who made the suggestions (re: shortening the wheel base, etc to get the front end off the ground a little) and I have to get my fanny off the computer and get all that done. I will be getting an early start in the morning (errands) before we get back so we can have more daylight for bashing. It's a bit cooler here now (finally!) so I'm looking forward to some fun =)

See you guys on Friday!

[TeamMishap]

I busted up my Evader again! It was mid 40s here in KY yesterday. Figured I'd rip around on the street a bit, our curbs are perfect for good air. I full-bored my Ev into my garbage can. I discovered parts I never wanted to discover. Broke the front brace and the servo horn. Got it hackneyed back together with some CA I had leftover from gluing on my DirtHawgs and sure as scheisse it fixed it well enough to run until the parts get back from Tower. I wish you could sent DTX a picture of your busted stuff so they could cross ship replacement parts.

Ordered an electric airplane today. Just what I need another money pit to take me away from my studies.

[benjermaine]

haha ok i understand:cool:

[p.n.e]

kitty, let me know how your new jag runs :) 4 bucks for a heatsink sounds like a pretty darn good deal to me, do u have the link? good luck with your tweakin.
im takin the tranny apart today, sounds a bit noisy, what kinda grease should i put on it? i have some plain ol all season green machine grease, will that work?

[benjermaine]

good question but i have never really heard anybody specify a type of grease.....that grease should do the trick...just make sure u read on the bottle to make sure there nothing important u should know;)

[p.n.e]

other than its good down to -45 C, nope. :D winter here i come!

[k_sw31]

Could you imagine evst plastics at -45 degrees? As long as the truck doesn't touch any thing, its fine ;)

Edit, then again, the chassis could snap from the force of acceleration ;)

[benjermaine]

lol or from just looking at it they're so weak

[p.n.e]

haha, if it were actually -45 i dont think i'd be driving. (too hard to control the radio with mitts ya see);) still prayin for snow tho..so i can get some more interestin terrain to run on

[k_sw31]

Snow is fun terrain, easy to make jump, cushions landings...

[benjermaine]

yeah the closest we get to snow here in houston is if u were to drop a snow cone on the ground....;) and yes mitts would make driving kinda difficult hehe

[benjermaine]

http://www.**************/rcpitcrew.storefront/3daf63a5014d89182720424d3618062c/Product/View/LOSA9810 do u think that those arms for the xxx-t would work for the evader??

[benjermaine]

ok...so that didnt work well basically its the xxx-t rear graphite arms...alot of the xx and xxx-t products work for the evader so...what do yall think...what other parts for these 2 losi trucks work for the evader with no or minimal mods??

[p.n.e]

wheels, bodies, a ton of stuff fits. I'm thinkin of gettin a xxx-nt. have any of you seen the videos on www.rccaraction.com? :D gotta check out the mutant one and the xxxnt

[benjermaine]

alrighty then...lets have everybody tell us about all the neat modifications that you have done to your cars....no matter how pathetic they may be;)

[CalmCyclone]

benjermaine -

The Evader is basically a carbon-copy of the Losi XX-T. Any hop-ups for that truck will work on the Evader as well. Also, check out DuraTrax's Evader hop-ups (http://www.duratrax.com/caraccys/dtxc6182.html) - they have titanium and aluminum stuff.


CalmCyclone
R/C veteran, R/C racing newbie

[benjermaine]

ok sounds good....my new stuff should be gettin here next week some time....

dirt hawgs 2.2
clawz 6 spoke chrome xxt (for my evader's front and back)
associated ipc sport esc
speed gem 2 ruby 16t triple (POWER BABY)
light slipper plate (blue anodized)
30wt and 40wt shock oil
RPM losi xx cushioned front bumber
front hinge pin plate blue aluminum

total of 159.87 with a 15 dollar discount

btw...in what shocks should i put the different wieghts of oil???
wut are yalls setups that work good??:)

[p.n.e]

a stiff rear :D will give you more steering, a stiff front will have more traction. i would make the rear stiffer because theres more weight on it.

[TeamMishap]

Seems a lot of people have question about other companies pieces fitting the Evader. Anyone think a FAQ on this topic would be worthwhile? I could put one together, but I'd need a buttload of input from you guys...and gal (mustn't forget Kitty). I'd give proper props to all who assist.

Let me know.

[TeamMishap]

My body is finally finished.

[pudder]

May I say very well done! I don't think there is too much of any color, I like the good variety and layout of the body. It looks so nice, I think I would just feel like hanging it up in my room instead of driving with it. :)

[p.n.e]

gorgeous teammishap. on time for the hockey season too!

how much do you guys think a used superrooster would be? i got offered one for 60 bucks usd. also, would an aluminum idler for a traxxas rusty fit in the evader? thx

[ronbeck]

that's not to bad. new super roosters go $120-up.
and if it is bad $38 bucks throught novak will get you a reman one with 120 warrenty. how i got my rooster in a rustler for $20.

[kitty]

p.n.e. - I haven't had a chance to solder a set of Dean's on the Jag yet. I'm still in a miff over the last time I ran my truck (I posted my tale of woe over on the Evader forum on HT). I'll PM you soon with the link for the heatsink. I "loaned" the one I had to my baby bro to put on one of his Titan motors (E-Maxx) that lost an internal fan. With just that little no-frills heatsink on that motor, it was considerably cooler than the motor that has an internal cooling fan. I'm going to order five more of them - three for baby bro's Maxx (it'll fit two on each motor) and two for me to use. I'll have to do some Dremel surgery on mine so they won't block the air holes in my motors.

Posted by CalmCyclone
The Evader is basically a carbon-copy of the Losi XX-T. Any hop-ups for that truck will work on the Evader as well.

I have to disagree with you on that one. I've done quite a lot of reading about and studying my Evader. I've seen numerous references to it as being the Team Lossociated Evader and I can see why. I have to check my list, but the arms from one of the Losi trucks will fit the Evader, but you'd have to do some drilling and use larger hinge pins for them to fit. I've noted that some parts made for the B2 will fit the Evader as well. I call mine the bastard child of a B2 and a XX-T.

TeamMishap - Thanks for remembering me in that :) You're such a sweetie! There is a FAQ on the HobbyTalk board. I gleaned a number of items from it and keep a running list of everything I pick up anywhere. If you can't find it, let me know and I'll provide a link and when I get a chance to cull all the information I have together into something readable, I'll make it available to anyone who wants it. I have to give credit where credit is due: pudder and jep_rc contributed quite a lot of information to what I have collected. When I get into a hobby, I really get into it hehehe

ps to TeamMishap: Great job on the new body! Now just put in some heavier weight shock oil and put on some white springs and it'll match even better. Oh yeah, if you want some beefier ball cups, grab a set of the extra-long purple ones that RPM makes. I put them on my truckster and the other night when my front bulkhead decided to fall apart, they were the only things holding the suspension arm and wheel assembly on the truck. Amazingly they did not pop off.

[kitty]

Ron, thanks for mentioning that! I would love to get a Super Rooster, but the price is out of my range for right now. Heck, I like refurbs. The way I see it, they've fixed any problems on a returned unit so you're not only getting a "new" one, but you're getting one with less chance of having problems.

Here's my Tip of the Week:

Those foam rings that go between ball cups and ball studs and just about everywhere else you can put 'em are good, but I've one-upped them on that one. I wasn't happy with the quality (more like lack of) of the ones that came with my truck so I decided to make my own. I bought a cheapie set of hollow punches and used two different sizes to cut my own. I used a piece of antistatic packing foam (just the right thickness, too!). The stuff I used made popping noises while cutting it that sounded like playing with small bubble wrap. I have some other foam I can use in the future, but the piece of the other stuff I have is large enough to make a few hundred as it is and they make a perfect seal to keep dust out.

If anyone is interested in making their own foamies, you can get a decent cheap set of hollow punches through Harbor Freight (http://www.harborfreight.com). I bought mine through a different dealer, but when I was at HF last Wednesday, I looked over their set; it looks better made and is a few dollars cheaper than the set I bought. Dang I love that place hehehe

[p.n.e]

hey everyone. i noticed on trinitys site that they wrote all their motors are rated for 6 cell use? is there a motor i can use with say 10 cells? on the traxxas forums there is one guy who claims to have installed two drill motors in his emaxx and gotten over 50mph.

[benjermaine]

wow....drill motors.....50 MPH!!! thats a great idea and u know what....i got a couple of drills laying around somewhere...im gonna try that on my friends emax...getting his emax and letting me rip it apart is another question:p.....yeah i gotta go with the others...teamishap....nice body and very original. The hockey deal is a new one by my standards. To think...i have never put anything from another car onto my evader so far....i did buy a RPM cushioned front bumber for the xxt that people have claimed that works. Theres my 2 cents on the faq of "other" option parts for the evader lol j/k but anyways keep up the good work everyone...peace out

[p.n.e]

hey benjermaine are you using the stock esc with that speedgems? let me know how it turns out

[benjermaine]

o no no no...lol....i got myself a associated ipc sport (down to 14t limit i think) to go with it....the motor is like a 16t so i needed a better esc...dude my esc was fryed forever ago....but i get my stuff at the end of the week and it will take me a couple of days to do all the soldering and shock oil changing and hop-up swaping but ill let u all know how my stuff works;)

[p.n.e]

sounds good. i got a superrooster and a 2400 sanyo pack for 85 bux shipped. i guess its a pretty ok deal, if the super rooster works that is. then its gonna be a speedgems 15 quad or one of those crazy low turn motors.

[benjermaine]

trust me....man if that super roost works good u got an UNBELIEVABLE deal with that 2400 batt....yeah get a cheap speed gems motor then get one of the new D4 Flatline motors that are like REALLY nice. Get like a 6t or 7t lol omg ur truck would hydroplain...hehe... let me know how the ol' roost turns out...good luck!!!

[k_sw31]

Hell yes it would hydroplain. My t3 did it easy w/ a speed gem 2 13 by 3.

[p.n.e]

how bout those D5's, are they out yet? and what do u mean by hydroplane? i pictured the car flying around across the surface of my lake...:p .

has anyone put wd40 on their universals where it connects to axel? this black oily stuff formed, maybe it reacted with the metal somehow? its not dirt thats for sure.

[p.n.e]

whoa..just found out D4's go down to 6 turn and D5's 7 turn...mwahahahahah!!! where is that devil smiley face when i need one..:D some insane gearing and i'll give my friends .21 tmaxx a run for its money.

teammishap, what rims are those on your 'oh so spectacular' truck? I'm plannin on getting some dirt hawgs and rpm clawz. not sure if dirt hawgs in the front would make steering worse? ribs seem like the best but i dont want to have nice chromes in the rear and ugly white dishs in the front.

[kitty]

p.n.e. - I bet what happened with the WD40 is that it washed a bit of dirt out of the bearings. I clean mine occasionally by "washing" them in a jar with some motor spray in it, let them dry well and then put a drop of fresh bearing oil on both sides of each bearing, re-mount them in my wheels and give them a little spin to get the oil worked in.

About the RPM wheels and Hawgs...I've been running Dirt Hawg IIs on front and rear of mine. They get fantastic traction for backyard bashing, though I've heard they aren't that great on the front for some dirt tracks. I could swear that I've seen ribs that fit the 2.2x2" wheels. One quick note about RPM wheels: the ones made for the XXT fit right on, but you'll need to shim the insides of the front wheels. They have very minimal clearance at best to the steering knuckles. I'm pretty sure that the washers I bought were #8. They fit like a glove on the axle and give just enough space so the rims don't rub. There should be room for two washers, but if only one gives enough space on whatever you get, no problem. The ones I bought are the RPM Talonz and I mounted a set of medium compound street tires on them. Dang, it sure sits lower now hehehe The Hawgs are a little larger outside diametre than the stock tires and the street tires I bought are just slightly smaller.

[p.n.e]

i guess that wont be much of a problem, the stock rims were scraping the knuckles when i first got them.

[enemy_spike]

dang im out i just crashed my evader staright into my neighbors mailbox:( i broke about every part in the front of the car (front brace, front shock tower twice, fron left c-hub, lost part of the servo saver, and more) i think i might get a micro RS4 to pass the time while i wait for my car back, im sendin it in for stress tech. Such a great idea:) (stress tech)

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by p.n.e
where is that devil smiley face when i need one..:D

Here's a fewhttp://www.plauder-smilies.de/devil/firedevil.gif ;) http://www.plauder-smilies.de/devil/diablotin.gif http://www.plauder-smilies.de/devil/diablotin.gifhttp://www.plauder-smilies.de/devil/firedevil.gif

[benjermaine]

lol....sadistic smiley's....hey man sorry to hear about that mailbox affair u and ur car had. the micro rs4 is real popular and should be fun to drive around the kitchen....have fun:p

[benjermaine]

if u look on page 47 somewhere, baneonrt posted a picture and items/instructions on how to install graphite arms and mip cvds. I think i might start that as my next mod....baneonrt....if u could maybe possible please send me an email on some detailed intrustions/parts need to do just the graphite rear a arms and the cvd kit??? email at bensanders@houston.rr.com...thanks so much ;)

[ronbeck]

enemy_spike

are you going to get a rtr or kit? micro?
the rtr is worth the cash for the equipment.

the kit is good(if like me you try to collect esc?rx).
but some bobies have a tight clearence for reg size equp.

such as proline gmc or dodge truck.

[p.n.e]

snowed today! again! we had some a few weeks back but it melted in a few hours. so did this stuff, but i managed to get some good runs in it:D stupid thing gets stuck in my neighbours lawn tho, which is about 3 inchs of grass and snow. *sigh* i went over to home depot and picked up some cheap chain, made some quick snow chains with them and they work great! kicked a huge rooster tail of ice into my face tho :mad: speakin of roosters, the super rooster is here in 2 days :D :D :D as you can tell im extremely excited, heheh. any suggestions on what kinda motor to stick in? i would like a 6 or 7 turn but todays driving in the snow made me realize i cant control this itchy throttle finger at all, the only thing that saved me from ripping the tranny apart was a really loose slipper *whew*, anyways, thats all for now, l8er everyone.

[kitty]

Originally posted by enemy_spike
dang im out i just crashed my evader staright into my neighbors mailbox:( i broke about every part in the front of the car (front brace, front shock tower twice, fron left c-hub, lost part of the servo saver, and more) i think i might get a micro RS4 to pass the time while i wait for my car back, im sendin it in for stress tech. Such a great idea:) (stress tech)
You're sending the entire truck back? I don't think they will repair it for you. You're supposed to send the broken parts in and they send you new ones and you have to do the work. I'll be sending a whole bunch of parts to them as soon as I can get to the mail centre or post office. Ugh. Two top braces, two bulkheads, what's left of one front suspension arm, two body mounts, one ESC and a partridge in a pear tree. Oh wait, I doubt they'd replace a dead partridge. Or a dead parrot. Sorry, I'm in a weird mood.

p.n.e. - great that you made your own tire chains. I planned that if we ever get ice on the roads here (very rare occasion), I'm going to use an old set of tires with screws in them. Keep having fun, bro!

[ronbeck]

kitty

sent my whole truck in.
well minus motor gaurd. they put a new one on.
only down side is took to long to return to me.
i had tranny and tx/rx probs.
they fixed and returned it.
just don't ask abput the esc return. 3 months

[benjermaine]

lol we've all been there done that.....;)

[BrianCio]

My Evader is running real slow, about 4 mph now. I changed brushes, cleaned motor put new batteries in the controller and am lost. The truck is 3 weeks old. I have even tried 3 different battery packs. Please help before I endure $$$ of labor to fix the monster. :):mad:

[ronbeck]

brianCio


check your rear diff.
i had one that did that and the rear diff was way gone...

[p.n.e]

brain, make sure your slipper isnt too loose either, while taking out the diff, check your gears too. something might be up with the tranny. check your pinion and spur's contact also you should check everything for binding, maybe your front wheels are locked down too tight.

kitty, i came across a lot of ideas for snow tires. some guy put staple gun staples thru rubber bands and tied them to his tires. i wouldnt want to puncture my tires in anyway, so chains seemed like the best way. they run really well by the way, i dug out an inch of hard packed snow and the frozen dirt underneath :)

[thetimboroni]

I just bought the Evader as my first car and boy do I love it! The slip clutch is great and gives me awesome traction. The only thing was that the ESC glue came off, so I just tie wrapped it and it has yet to come back off. I rigged up the switch so I can turn it on from the bottom rather than reach up inside the body. I won't be hopping it up for a while, but hope to get street tires for it when I get the cash up, so I don't ware the back knub tires out on the road. It's a great car for new people!

[enemy_spike]

how exactly do you put chains on an R/C car??? Kitty im sendin my whole truck back cause im to damn lazy to put the parts on myself:D

[odojack]

I recieved my Evader 2 months ago and I have loved it since the second I layed eyes on it. I took it to my local race track and saw that everyone was racing Losi's so I had to go against the grain and get a cheaper car. Oh if you are wondering, the car can compete, don't let all of the ads fool ya. A good driver is a good driver driving a stock evader or a stock XX lossi. I heard so many bad things from the shops about how the car is such crap and how it always has parts breaking. Well I've got a E Maxx for the last 2 years and I've gone through big $$ in the amount of "great, quality" parts that it is made out of. I've probably invested more money in the EMaxx replacement parts than on the original truck. That's why I've convirted to 16 minute run times with my Evader and can now compete at the races in NJ. I can't find a place that will race E MAxxes. Oh Ya race Electric! Save your lungs and nose....

[p.n.e]

enemy, its not big chains, :D very small links. you can get it real cheap at homedepot, i think it was 20 cents a foot. used about 6 feet for the rear wheels, no point in making front wheels for a 2wd. it really gives the truck a lot tougher look tho, i will try to find the link for u with instructions.

btw, does anyone know how to solder? :) any tips, a how-to page for dummies?

so far i kno that you
1.clean the surfaces
2. flux and tin the surfaces
3.....solder them together without moving the joint.

im stuck on part 3, when i put the tinned wire and onto the tab, where do i heat the iron on? where do i apply the solder?

[p.n.e]

infact, those chains look so cool, i think i'll make them for the front too, just for show :cool:

[k_sw31]

Speaking of chains, I found some that work really good, but i only have a little bit, i might get a pic up.

PNE, if both surfaces are tinned properly, you shouldn't have to apply anymore solder, just place the iron on top of the wire, let the solder melt, let the solder bond or 'soldify' and your done.

[pudder]

For the person who asked about soldering, there is a little article here that will help you out. :)

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/soldering.htm

[p.n.e]

thanks pudder, you use a soldering gun? i've heard a lot of bad things about them.

k_sw31, you need a lot of chain, i had to make 2 trips to the hardware store cuz i underestimated. something like 2-3 feet for a single wheel. still trying to find that site.

[p.n.e]

http://rcvehicles.about.com/library/rc101/blrc101_chainsa.htm

heres that linkhttp://rcvehicles.about.com/library/rc101/blrc101_chainsa.htm

[pudder]

You have HEARD a lot of things. ;) Mine has never had any problems, and I know of a few other people with the guns that also like them better. I actually prefer them over the irons.

[benjermaine]

how do u remove bearings from the front tires...also...is there any other requirements to make the front rpm clawz rims for the xxt to fit the evader?? i mainly need to know how to remove bearings from the wheels....thanks:)

[k_sw31]

Take some pliers and just pop 'em out. You shant need any modifications.

[p.n.e]

(pudder) don't you find holding the gun sort of bulky? why do you perfer them over irons? just out of curiosity

[pudder]

Nope, I find them comfortable where as an iron, I cant always find a good way to hold it, and have had some bad experiences burning myself. I just work much better with the gun, but the drawback from the gun is that if oyu press too hard on the tio it will bend or break, but I never need to press that hard, I also like that they take less than 10 seconds to heat up and when I put it down I dont worry about accidently burning myself on it. :)

[TeamMishap]

My RPM Slingshots rub on the knuckle arms. Most folks have no problem with the RPMs. Guess I'm just lucky. Glad my truck's broke or I'd really be ticked about it. Give me time to figure out what to file down and how to do it.

[benjermaine]

yeah i tried that whole plier and pop em out thingy and so far all if done is made scratches on the bearings....soooo...do u think u could give me a better description maybe thanks for responding tho;)

[pudder]

I use a small flathead screwdriver. I make sure the tip fits through a bearing center, and put it and an angle through a bearing, and push in the inside of the bottom bearing, it should pop out, then i put the screwdriver on the remaining bearing and puch it out too. It is so simple to do, but dont push on the baring seals or you will damage them.

[benjermaine]

alright yeah that worked well....thankyou......my car is SO FAST...you wouldnt believe it probably goes 35 at least. im so excited and the tires are so tight looking. Im gonna try to get some pics up soon:) maybe some of it jumping......:p

[k_sw31]

What motor u running?

[JoeUSA 1]

do you all know that they now make a nitro evader?????

[benjermaine]

speed gems ruby 16t triple (more torque than a mo fo)..and an LRP sport esc (rated down to 14t motors)....dirt hawgs II with RPM Clawz rims for the XXT....aluminum slipper plate...alum. front brace...RPM cushioned bumper for the XXT and deans connectors (I highly recomend them....) thats more than u wanted to know probably but i just gotta tell the world!! j/k :p Its supposed to rain here in houston throughout the weekend and into early next week...THIS SUX MAJORLY...stupid weather.............:mad: :mad:

[k_sw31]

thats what enemy_spike needs, a hugeass bumper. ;)

[p.n.e]

yes!(nitro evader) its in the december issue of r/c car action. no pricing yet but it has a .18 engine and blue body.

[k_sw31]

Man, i wouldn't want one of those, even if the engine is made by os, (i think it is) i mean, enemy spike broke like 5 parts w/ a 15 turn quad! In one hit too.

[p.n.e]

ya good point. i think the only thing that is different is the aluminum chassis. the front looks exactly the same as electric. they didnt even use different tires for heavens sake. the body is lacking some creativity too IMO.

got the rooster in today and it runs just plain awesome. put in a sanyo 2400 pack and deans, soldered the motor directly onto the esc. much longer runtimes, it felt like a whole new truck. the only problem was that i wired the motor backwards, which normally wouldnt be a problem, but now smart braking feature only works for reverse full forward slams. ah well...i'll re solder them tommorow. has anyone tried soldering 12 gauge wire onto a motor tab with a 30 watt iron? its just darn impossible! i just ended up puttin the iron under a butane torch and heating it up that way. cant wait to take it outside.
:D

now, on motors, i am going to get a mild mod motor, somewhere around a 15 turn so i dont have to cut the comm as much. i think a lathe might be impossible to get, the lhs doesnt even carry them :( or maybe i'll get a 10 turn caliber and run it till it dies.

cya!

[kitty]

About RPM wheels: The ones made for the XXT will fit, but will either require some creative trimming on the inner edge, or, as I took the easy way out, shimming. I bought a pack of (I think) #8 washers and put two on the inside of each axle. There was still plenty of room left for the lock nut on the outside.

Speaking of RPM... right now I'm corresponding with a guy from RPM. I asked if they have plans to make any aftermarket parts for Duratrax vehicles, especially the Evader. I'm anxiously awaiting his response on that one for sure. Most definitely, though, and I may have mentioned this already, but the long RPM ball cups fit perfectly on my Evader and for dang sure hold much better than the originals did.

I soon will be replacing my rear camber links with 70mm ones. I noticed that there were a lot of threads showing on mine and also noted that the titanium set includes four 70mm links instead of two each of 60, 65 and 70mm. It didn't take long for me to figure out why ;)

Now, about comm lathes. I thought about getting one after reading about the benefits, but here's how I see it: I'm using motors that aren't very expensive, but I take very good care of them. I clean them after each bash-fest and use a comm stick on the comm and brushes. When the comm on mine gets too far gone, I'll just toss it and get a new armature. By the time I'll wear out enough comms/armatures that would equal the cost of a decent lathe and bits, I figure brushless motors will be much more affordable, thus making the lathe obsolete. Just my .02 on the subject. Your mileage may vary. :p

[TeamMishap]

High speed breakage - I noticed my Evader became very fragile after throwing my Chameleon on it. Seems the physics equation of mass x velocity = cost of repairs (or is that momentum), holds very true. Increased velocity = increased momentum = money in LHS's or Tower's pocketbook. Please take the quiz at the end of the post. Next weeks RC physics lesson: Evader high-speed trajectory.

Kitty - that was a beautiful cost-benefit analysis on the purchase of a comm lathe. Got me thinking. He!! with buying a Super Rooster, cheap low-turn burner, and a comm lathe. I'm going brushless!

[k_sw31]

P.N.E. look at the speed gems pro 15x2, thats the next brushed motor I'm getting.

All this talk about comm. lathes. I was looking at those a while back, and i was thinking, i was going to spen 180 dollars on a lathe, then i'd need to get a slave motor, power supply, etc. That was about the time when this brushless motor stuff started popping up. So I started to look at one of those. To make a long story short, I ended up buying a brushed motor/esc combo for 240 dollars. I am very happy with it, no matenence, etc. More power, speed, runtime (the thing gets 7 minutes of run time with 1500's ! :eek: and it pulls 65 amps and 5300 rpms a volt!) and loads of torque too!

check out these sites for more info

www.rumrunnerhobbies.com and
www.finedesignrc.com

just my 2 cents :D

[p.n.e]

after a lot of research i think the cheapest way to increase speed and torque is simply adding more cells, i think i'm gonna try 8 cells on a caliber and see how that goes. kitty, a new motor might be better than a new arm, the magnets get weaker over time, and it isnt that big a difference in cost.

[k_sw31]

Of course the more cells, the more wear and less runtime.

Edit, I guess the point i'm trying to make is this; if your gonna spend 200+ on a lathe, to maintain your motors that you'll eventually have to replaces anyways (plus they're susecptable to dirt) you might as well spend a bit more money and buy a brushless, No maintenence and sealed motors baby!

Ps, you only have to replace the bearings every ten years! (thats it)

[thetimboroni]

Will someone please let me know if it's ok to put a 14T modified motor in my Evader. I don't know if the ESC can handle it or not.

thetimboroni@hotmail.com

[pudder]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Of course the more cells, the more wear and less runtime.

Edit, I guess the point i'm trying to make is this; if your gonna spend 200+ on a lathe, to maintain your motors that you'll eventually have to replaces anyways (plus they're susecptable to dirt) you might as well spend a bit more money and buy a brushless, No maintenence and sealed motors baby!

Ps, you only have to replace the bearings every ten years! (thats it)

The only drawback I see in having a brushless, you can't race them... yet. :) When they start to become race legal, oh forsure I will get one!

[p.n.e]

im not concerned at all about runtime to pack. 1800 packs are 20 bucks canadian each at the lhs, so i would just charge 5 or 6 and go bashing. the only downside to brushless is that its major expensive, and with such torque and speed you're probably gonna be replacing more parts on your truck. btw k_sw31, what motor did you get? a hacker im thinking? i really considered brushless for a long time, but the reason i'm staying with brushed is cuz i plan on saving for a nitro too, and well frankly, i cant afford so many toys ;)


thetim, if its stock it wont be able to handle 14T. max is around a 17 or 18t. ;

[jep_rc]

Originally posted by TeamMishap
My RPM Slingshots rub on the knuckle arms. Most folks have no problem with the RPMs. Guess I'm just lucky. Glad my truck's broke or I'd really be ticked about it. Give me time to figure out what to file down and how to do it.
TM - my RPMs rubbed too. Run a bolt through, chuck it up in a drill, spin it, and hold sand paper to the inside lip that is rubbing the knuckles. This way you will remove an even amount of material all the way around and the wheel should keep it's balance. Kind of a poor man's lathe.

Jep

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by pudder
The only drawback I see in having a brushless, you can't race them... yet. :) When they start to become race legal, oh forsure I will get one!

Well, actually the novaks and the orions are race legal, thoug h not as powerful

[p.n.e]

really, thats interesting. but no matter, i bought a 9 turn sg pro today. what should i replace the pinion with? I'm gonna try stock for now and see how it goes. I'm still a bit in the dark about this timing business. right now its stock, which i asumme is 0 deg. the double mark on the can is aligned to 0. how do i change the timing? im guessing removing and rotating the endbell? what would be a good setting?

[kitty]

Jep, I like your method of removing material better in a way. Only thing is, removing material is modifying and will nullify the warranty. If I recall correctly, RPM guarantees theirs against breakage under certain conditions (even slamming into curbs).

I just realised something about your method. Unless you left out a part about using a nut on the drill side to tighten the wheel between it and the bolt head, wouldn't it be hard to get the tire to spin with the drill? I know you could just push the bolt in pretty snug, but I'd be afraid to bugger the inner bearing race.

p.n.e. - sounds like you've gone way beyond anything I'd try hehehe From what I've read about pinions, you'd need a smaller one for a 9T motor. Your top speed with the stock 20t pinion would be fantastic, but I think it would be at the risk of heat buildup in the motor and ESC. On the other hand, it is much cooler/colder (depending on where you live) these days... At any rate, have fun and post about it! I bought a 15t pinion to go with my 17x2 Jag motor, but I probably won't use one that small for now because the highs have been in the upper 60s, which is quite a change from the last time I was able to bash.

Now if Hobby Services will just get those replacement parts to me... does anyone here know about how long it takes to get replacements? Their site says that they send a postcard to let you know they got your broken stuff, but that's about it. Oh, and not to forget I'll need my danged charger back too. *sigh* We've had rain for the past week or so and the forecast calls for more this week. Ah well, it gives me time to solder some Deans on the Jag motor and maybe mod my Auldeys (Race Tins). Oh yeah, I'm also considering yanking my battery packs apart and putting bars in instead of the cheap "string" they used to assemble them. That should keep me busy and out of trouble. For now at least heh

[p.n.e]

thanks kitty! whew, i was really starting to sweat...a 20 tooth pinion with the 9 turn..yikes i thought it was kinda risky.but im hopin in the temperatures we've been getting, around 0 degrees celcius, 32 F, that the motor and esc should be ok. if not, its an hour drive back to the hobby store :mad:

btw, isnt stock a 18 tooth? or did i buy this nice hardened superlite pinion for nothing?

[TrinityEVADER]

ive had mine for about 5 months now and just last week i broke my front barce and bulkhead but that's fixed and is recently won 4 motors on ebay the p2k pro and the p2k2 pro and the green machine 3 pro and an mvp motor a great deal other than that my car is all stock i want to start racing wut do u guys think i would like some advice


thanx,......................chris:cool:

[TrinityEVADER]

great idea man, its a great place for all of us evader's to get together and talk

good thinkin':cool:

[k_sw31]

Since we were talking bout lathes earlier, heres a link that shows you how to restore performance to the comm. w/ out a lathe http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=753714#post753714

TrinityEVADER, I don't have much to offer on track driving (i'm just starting my self) except for this, its important to keep the right balance in your car, for example, in my t3, i ran it with the battery placed all the way in the back, the handling was terrible, it kept spinning out etc. So then i tried my battery all the way forward, everything worked great.

[p.n.e]

TrinityEVADER go to ur local track and watch the fast guys, what tires they using, their setup etc. ask around and try to dial your truck to the track.

[TrinityEVADER]

WHAT MOTORS SOULD I USE FOR...........

THESE ARE THE MOTORS I GOT:

(STOCK)PHOTON SPEED 20T
P2K COPPER HEAD PRO
P2K2 PRO
GREEN MACHINE 3 PRO
AND THE ASSOCIATED MVP STOCK PLUS

OFF - ROAD BASHING:

ON - ROAD SPEED AND BASHING(MESSIN' AROUND):

AND RACING (THE BEST MOTOR):

HIT ME UP ID LIKE THE ADVICE


CHRIS


:cool:

[Matt (aka R/C)]

has anyone had problems with the esc on their evader?im wondering if it's just me.and also what should my motor,esc and batteries be running at after a run???
the esc was about 92 degrees f the motor was 120 and the batts were about 97.thanks.(all the temps were using a very good thermometer that my dad owns)



Matt

[pudder]

Chris, I have driven with P2k, p2k 2 pro's, and MVP. I like the MVP the best out of all of those motors. Some people don't like them and say they get too hot but I have never had any problems and it had even better performance than my p2k 2 pro.

Lathe, sandpaper trick, I have tried thatbefore , good to get the crap off of your comm, but it won't even it out like a lathe, which is one of the main points of truing it.

[p.n.e]

ahh i took the new 9 turn for a spin today in the snow, and it melted the bottom right off my stick pack! :eek: in the snow too! well hope the pack isnt junk..it looks pretty miserable tho, the sanyo lettering is all gooey and blackened.

[k_sw31]

Well, i don't exactly wanna spend 200+ bucks on a lathe, besides, i noticed a lot more power and rpms, its a cheap way for more performance. :D

[benjermaine]

took my evst out today for about 8-10 batt. packs....WOW...it is so unbelieveably fast i would say maybe 35 mph....amazing preformance...u know wut sux tho....screws and camber links rusted cuz i been running it in the moist grass and semi wet streets so it rusted all over...o well. nothing a brillo pad cant fix:p

[jdm3849]

I'm coming back because there seems to be alot of action in here and I still have my evader but it's not running because I need a new battery and or motor. If I get an OK battery I'm gonna need another charger because I have a 15 min. one. I got rid of my peak charger with the stampede.

[TrinityEVADER]

how fast do u think the evader will go with any of those stock motors stock they go 21 and mine is straight stock....so how fast would you say

thanx, chris:cool:

[kitty]

p.n.e. - stock is 20t, sweetie. You didn't waste money. I wanna get a few of the purple aluminum ones hehehe

ronbeck - you must have missed my long post a few pages back on what all I broke. The short list of what I sent in: 2 bulkheads, one front arm, 2 top braces and my ESC. I didn't break the ESC. The motor leads were poorly soldered and one came loose. I'm betting that it shorted out the ESC. I already replaced the ESC with a Rooster so I'll probably use the Sprint on a weird mod design I have in mind.

Matt - Rule of thumb on motor heat is if you can touch it for three seconds without burning yourself, it's okay.

p.n.e. part II - ouchies! I'm planning on re-doing even my cheap battery packs by converting them to side by side. Everything I've read mentions the crappy connections in stick packs. Maybe that would help keep yours from melting in the future.

ben - What kinda setup are you running to get those speeds? (motor/ESC/gearing, etc)

jdm - welcome back!

Jeff (jep) - if you missed my long post and this lands on another page, I had a question for you about the drill trick on page 60. Oh yeah, and I got my package a few days ago. The braces look great!

<shameless plug for Jep>
everyone who doesn't already own a set should get some aluminum braces from Jep. Light weight, cheaper than the Duratrax brace (not as pretty but it'll probably get scratched anyway) and your front suspension and bulkhead will thank you at some point. I should have bought mine two bulkheads and one suspension arm ago heh
</shameless plug for Jep>

[kitty]

Originally posted by TrinityEVADER
how fast do u think the evader will go with any of those stock motors stock they go 21 and mine is straight stock....so how fast would you say
I can't tell you how fast they'll make your truck go, but you'll definitely keep the speeds up by cleaning and re-oiling your wheel bearings once in a while. Same goes for keeping motors cleaned maintained (motor spray, comm brush, clean brushes, re-oiling bearings on both ends).

Forgot earlier... benjermaine, you should dry your truck off after use if you get it all wet. It's always humid here and we bash mostly at night when the moisture settles and the grass gets wet, so I dry mine off all the time. You can keep the rust from spreading by making sure they are dry and using a little WD40 on them (spray it on an old rag and wipe 'em down). They shouldn't be rusting unless you get them wet a lot and never dry them off.

[p.n.e]

kitty, yup thats mines alrite..super light hardened alum and..purple. I think i'll be ok as long as i keep the timing at 0, it might not work that well at 15 degrees or something along those lines.


i tore apart the all my stick packs and am gonna rebuild them as a side by sides next weekend. i dont want to solder a battery bar on the bottom just to have a tab in the middle melt on me.. now that i am slightly more experienced in soldering, it should be a breeze :) side by side is really a better arrangement for the cells. i lost a lot of power thru that one bad tab without even knowing it.



looks like i am gonna need front tire chains too, today we got a good 3 inches of the white stuff and the turning was terrible..i could only do a U turn in a 20 foot circle on 1/4 throttle. plus i slammed it into a few things trying to stop when i brought it in. mainly a concrete flower planter :o

i tried that wd-40 trick to dry off my car.. it didnt work all that well and stunk up the whole house :( plus i had a really slimy greasy car to work with after that.

[ronbeck]

kitty
i never did get a new print esc. i had to whine and they sent me there mild mod 16turn intellispeed. had already gotten a ko-propo ksc-1000fr, and a refeb rooster. watch out they did send me a blast esc and said it's good to go.But after two runs with a 2400 orion rocket pack it melted under the use with the box photon speed motor. took almost three months to get the upgrade. have had alot of returns. customer service almost knew me by first name. :D

[Matt (aka R/C)]

Thanks for the answer kitty,(I already knew that rule,thanks anyways) but does anyone know how hot the esc should be????O and kitty it wasnt my wires coming apart, i checked all the soldering.



Matt

[jdm3849]

Just make sure that the esc doesn't burn you when ya' touch it.

With the stock gearing and a MVP I would say 24 mph.

[benjermaine]

kitty....my setup is a speed gems 16t triple....lrp sport esc(rated down to 14t) a 22 gear pinion with stock spur..rpm wheels with dirt hawgs and a few alum. parts....3000 mah batt. too. Fast set-up i do say...peace out

[TrinityEVADER]

With the stock gearing and a MVP I would say 24 mph. [/B][/QUOTE]

hey were you referring to me??????????:confused:

[jdm3849]

I recon I was :)

[TeamMishap]

I wrote to Duratrax about graphite parts and transmission gear compatibility. I told them I've read a few of you folks "exploded your gearboxes" with quality ESC/Low turn motors. They are VERY interested in this and would like some stories so they can improve the tranny.

Anyone have any tales along these lines to share or cut and paste from previous posts?

[p.n.e]

great job team mishap, maybe finally they can come up with some better parts in the tranny? what a relief

[kitty]

p.n.e., you poor silly thang you. You must have read what I said when you were super tired. I didn't say to use WD40 to dry off the car. I meant dry it off with a rag, towel or whatever and spray the WD40 on an old rag or something and wipe down the rusty axles to help protect them from rusting further.

Mishap, all they have to do is take a good long look at the B2/etc Stealth tranny. Word. Or at the very least go with something like a metal (a la HG style) diff gear and delrin idler.

Oh yeah. Update on correspondence with the guy from RPM. He said that they have no plans for Evader aftermarket parts. I have a feeling it has something to do with getting license to make replacements, eg Duratrax/Hobbico/Tower Hobbies (all the same from what I gather) wants full reign in that area. Perhaps now that Mishap has an ear over at DTX (I think someone else around here does too), they'd be receptive to other ideas for hop-ups and better replacement parts. For one, notice that some of their coloured stuff comes in blue, green and yellow, while the aluminum parts come in blue and purple? Yah, I love purple and green together, but get real. They need more consistency.

I've done a bit of marketing consultant work. They need to hire me hehehe Seriously, though. Heck, I'd be willing to toss ideas at them all day long if they'd "pay" me with products. Oh yeah!

[TeamMishap]

Everyone wants better pieces for the tranny.

They are looking for SPECIFIC instances of it failing. What'd you do to make it bust? What busted when you busted it?

[Aluma]

LOL...you want instances... I busted my tranny just trying to set the diff and slipper up! I didnt even use it much before I had to replace gears inside...I heard a weird brrrrr noise....DOH!! Took it apart and there were tiny pieces of plastic all over the place.

[ronbeck]

have had probs with idle gear. just turning to froth. lube and really small pieces of plastic. only running a orion rush 19t, 1500&2400 rocket packs through ko-propo ksc1000fr or rooster.

tried a 1700 sanyo 7 cell. idle gear went fast.

[TeamMishap]

Perfect examples folks. I'm cut/pasting them into a letter that'll I'll send once I get a few more.

[jep_rc]

Team Mishap - I hope DTX is really looking into the tranny. I have owned two Evaders for a long time (bought them used). One has never broken a single tranny part, the other constantly blew idler gears and I never found out why (both = 100% stock). I had replaced everything in the "bad" tranny including idler, diff, and topshaft. The car with the bad tranny eventually became a parts car for the good one because I got so frustrated. Here is a copy of a letter I wrote to Duratrax and their response (back in JUNE!). My truck was out of warranty, so returning it wasn't really an option.

- Jep

06/17/02 10:54AM
Hello,

I own a Duratrax Evader ST, Serial Number 0180597. I need help or suggestions on how to keep the idler gear from breaking on my truck. I have not had any other problems with the truck. I keep the differential tight and I keep the slipper very loose. I only run the truck on a dirt track that has small jumps. I have had to replace the idler gear (DTXC8080) 5 times in this truck (every weekend for the last five weeks).

I keep the diff tight.
I keep the slipper loose.
I have tried boiling the new gears before I put them in the tranny.

Please let me know what else I can do to stop the idler gear from breaking - this is very frustrating. I am to the point that I want to return the truck to my hobby shop because I am spending more time fixing it than I am racing it. Thank you for your help.

<<Hobby Services Reply>>
Thank you for your recent e-mail. The problem could be some binding, or a bent part in your gearbox that is causing the damage. If you believe your product to be defective and under warranty replacement, please ship it to:

Hobby Services
1610 Interstate Drive
Champaign IL 61822

[TrinityEVADER]

even though they will only boost my top end about 3 mph will i get better acceleration and be able to tell a difference
:rolleyes:

[p.n.e]

Originally posted by kitty
p.n.e., you poor silly thang you. You must have read what I said when you were super tired. I didn't say to use WD40 to dry off the car. I meant dry it off with a rag, towel or whatever and spray the WD40 on an old rag or something and wipe down the rusty axles to help protect them from rusting further.



oops..that must have been it :o i was using the stuff like motor spray...

[MrHorspwer]

Hey guys... got a couple questions here. I'm thinking of buying an Evader as a backyard/street basher(maybe a little more... my LHS just opened an indoor dirt track). I'm a touring car carpet racer now... that's all I've ever done, so I'm not into all this stadium truck stuff. I'm pretty **** about my equipment so none of it sees the street anymore. The Evader seems pretty complete so I though it'd be a good first step. So, on to my questions...

1.) How tough is it... what will I break first? How about "Stress-Tech Warranty"... do they actually replace parts?

2.) How good is the stock ESC? Tower says it's rated down to 12T motors. I have a Rooster that I really liked... which would be better?

3.) I run all stock motors in my TC... what would be my best choice for the Evader? I was thinking 15T Speed-Gems with my Rooster... or something more radical if the factory ESC can handle it:D

4.) Will the trans or anything else disinegrate with a low(er) turn motor?

5.) What kind of gearing does a 15T like? What kind for 12T?

6.) Any other good advice?

Thanks

[live4rock2000]

How do you like these!!!


http://www.plauder-smilies.de/rough/greenchainsaw.gif http://www.plauder-smilies.de/rough/itschy.gifhttp://www.plauder-smilies.de/rough/schuss.gifhttp://www.plauder-smilies.de/rough/hanged.gifhttp://www.plauder-smilies.de/rough/jesse1.gifhttp://www.plauder-smilies.de/rough/jesse1.gif

[jep_rc]

Originally posted by MrHorspwer
Hey guys... got a couple questions here....

1.) How tough is it... what will I break first? How about "Stress-Tech Warranty"... do they actually replace parts?
Depends on your driving skills - front bulkhead will bust if yu catch an arm on somethng solid (unless you have a Jep-R/C Pin brace, of course) Yes, they do replace the stress tech parts free during warranty, never had any problem with that.

2.) How good is the stock ESC? Tower says it's rated down to 12T motors. I have a Rooster that I really liked... which would be better?
No, Tower says stock ESC is good down to 20T - I just checked. Most of us have not had problems going down to 19T - some push it to 17T, but that's the absolute limit, unless you are planning to buy a new one anyway. If you are going to race, the ESC doesn't have reverse lock-out, so you'll need a new one anyways.

3.) I run all stock motors in my TC... what would be my best choice for the Evader? I was thinking 15T Speed-Gems with my Rooster... or something more radical if the factory ESC can handle it:D
I run a Speed Gems 2 Pro Kobal 13T Double with a Novak Fusion.

4.) Will the trans or anything else disinegrate with a low(er) turn motor?
Yes and no, seems like some have trouble, some don't.

5.) What kind of gearing does a 15T like? What kind for 12T?

6.) Any other good advice?
Check out the thread titled "Jerrit's Evader FAQ" on the HobbyTalk forums.

Jep

[MrHorspwer]

Thanks for the great info... the HobbyTalk link is now set in my favorites. I don't know what I was thinking about the ESC... I checked too. Makes sense... why would they put a low turn ESC in a starter vehicle with a 20T motor? That's why it suprised me so much... should've known. I guess I'd be installing my Rooster and running a 15T. For the money, the brace sounds like cheap insurance. I'll definatly be purchasing one if I get an Evader. Thanks again.
Mike

[p.n.e]

hey jep, how is that 13 turn treatin ya? franky i am a bit disappointed with my 9 turn crytonite. the torque is really lacking, a lot worse than the stock. havent really opened it up yet cuz of the 5 inches of snow on the road plus right now the pinion is stock. sounds crazy but its 32 degrees outside and my esc and motor are running really cool, the only problem is the batteries are overheating. (remember my melted 2400 pack?) i converted it to side by side and it still runs very hot. I'm gonna resist the urge to drive it anymore until i gear down

hopefully when i gear down to a 12 tooth or so it will have a lot more punch to it. i dont want to sacrifice a lot of top speed for torque though.. what timing do you have yours set to? i have mines around 18, dunno if thats a good number or not, i just hear a lot of people using it.

Mr.Horspwer, welcome to the thread! the speed gems 15 turn quad looks really nice, that was my second choice for a motor, but didnt really wanna solder on some caps. as for gearing, i've been told to stay around the number of turns in the motor. this isnt possible with some of the really low turns ex. my 9 turn, but you could go something like 15 or 16 tooth pinion with your speedgems 15. feel your motor after each run and if its not too hot you could go up a tooth if you like.
you might wanna check out the hobby talk forums as well, lot of helpful people, lot of them from here too.
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17034&perpage=20&pagenumber=44

[kitty]

Jeff, that's pretty much the attitude I get from Hobby Services. Luckily, when I called, I used the number on the front of my Evader manual and spoke to a Duratrax person. If you call the "regular" HS number, you usually get some minimum-wage slave who doesn't know piddly about RC stuff.

MrHorspwer, welcome to the forum! I'll reply to your questions the same way Jep did. I like that format for something like this :)

1.) How tough is it... what will I break first? How about "Stress-Tech Warranty"... do they actually replace parts?
It's pretty tough, but depends on how much abuse you give it. Any RC vehicle will break parts. Yes, they actually replace parts. Look at the list on the Duratrax site - they list all parts that are covered under that warranty.

2.) How good is the stock ESC? Tower says it's rated down to 12T motors. I have a Rooster that I really liked... which would be better?
Some have never had problems with the stock ESC. Others have had nothing but problems with them. I'm one of the latter. Mine poofed on me the first day out. The Novak Rooster is a great ESC (what I'm using now) and will let you run lower-wind motors without worry.

3.) I run all stock motors in my TC... what would be my best choice for the Evader? I was thinking 15T Speed-Gems with my Rooster... or something more radical if the factory ESC can handle it
If you plan on a mod motor, plan on a better ESC to go with it. My current motor is a Trinity Green Machine 3 Pro and I love it. I bought a cheapie Jaguar 17x2 to play with and I'm sure I'll have comments to post when I hook it up (as if I didn't frequently have comments anyway heh)

4.) Will the trans or anything else disinegrate with a low(er) turn motor?
What Jep said. Mine had a screwy top shaft, which now resides somewhere in the creek behind our house. That's where I threw it because I was pretty po'd at it. Many others have had idler gears that won't last. My idler has suffered some serious abuse and still looks like new, but I'm having to rebuild the diff.

5.) What kind of gearing does a 15T like? What kind for 12T?
The smallest pinion I've seen is a 15 tooth. I gear mine based on the torque of the motor.

6.) Any other good advice?
Definitely what Jep said. That FAQ has some great info in it. And though Jep is shameless in plugging his brace kit :D it's well worth the small investment. I can attest to what happens to bulkheads when you don't use a better front brace.

I'm thinking that there must be good and bad runs on parts wherever in China Duratrax has their stuff made. Maybe they have good days and bad days on the QC line, I don't know. The main parts to look out for breaking are the front bulkhead, front suspension arms (aka a-arms), front body mount (crappiest design I've ever seen) and the top brace. I've heard that they are now making a different top brace that includes an x-shaped cross pattern and I bet it's more structurally sound.

p.n.e. - it sounds like you have a bad cell or two in that pack or something. If it's still heating up, even in the snow, something's wrong. And definitely gear down a bit. Unless you're trying to top your own speed record on a straight, dry street, forget about using a pinion larger than 18t with a mod motor.

See you guys in a few days. I'm going out of town tomorrow and won't be back until late and probably will be too tired to log on. Take care, all!

[jdm3849]

TinityEvader, you will notice and improvement in torque also. It will all around have more power and you can take it completely apart to clean it. You MAY notice a change in runtime but it won't make you sad because the more power makes up for it.

[JoeUSA 1]

Who wants to see a video of my 14 volt evader doing a back flip over a station wagon??:)

[p.n.e]

Originally posted by JoeUSA 1
Who wants to see a video of my 14 volt evader doing a back flip over a station wagon??:)

got a video ?:D

[TeamMishap]

Got my Super Rooster and an 11x2 motor today. Any bets on what I break next?

[k_sw31]

My bet that you will strip an idler gear. ;)

[p.n.e]

my bet is you'll break whatever you hit ;) is that a speedgems pro you got?

[TeamMishap]

Nah, just got a cheapo $17 Orion Rush.

[TrinityEVADER]

yah i just put the green machine in today and man does it rip i was jumpin plywood to day mad air!!!!!!!! but yah i've only got (4) 1500's so my runtime is pretty short but its all good.

there isn't much get off on the green machine but the top end is great lots of rpm's, but no torque, but that's why it makes a good off roading motor, next im going to try out my p2k pro

thanks again for the response

late, chris:cool:

[ronbeck]

:mad: finnally know how frustrating the front bulk head is. broke my first yesterday at the end of 10 minute run. then broke the replacement less then two minutes into my run today!!!
broke in same spot both times left a-arm pin holder..


is the aluminum bulk head worth it???

jep dose your brace help with this???
thanks :rolleyes:

[pudder]

I would say the aluminum bulkhead would be worth it because it is such a big chunk of metal that even in a hard hit probably wouldn't even break it. It will weigh down your front end more so you may nosedive more off of jumps.

[kitty]

Mishap - What do we get if we win the bet on what you'll break next? My bet would be a front suspension arm if you have your slipper loose, or if the slipper is tight, a diff rebuild from burning the bearings heh

ronbeck, are you hitting poles or curbs on that side a lot? Though it seems weird that you'd break two bulkheads that close together in time, the last time one of my broke, it was during a power slide on my driveway. When I took everything apart and looked at the bulkhead, it had split from about 1/3 away from the suspension arm pin down to the pin. Only thing I could figure was that it was a faulty part to begin with.

That reminds me. Someone mentioned previously that the new top braces have an X design in them and are thicker. I just got my two replacements and both are the older design. That bites. And they have that same, sorta glossy, cheap look like the last ones did. Oh well, I guess I'll see how long these last. :/

Regarding the aluminum front brace - in my opinion, it's a must for any Evader. I just installed one on mine and last night my servo was acting up on me and I hit the "RC Killer" pole again (not my fault this time!), but nothing broke. Whew! But now I need to open my servo to check for stripped gears. I also rolled my truck a lot last night and nothing broke this time! One time it did at least a quadruple cartwheel, but no suspension arm breakage. The only thing I can figure is that the aluminum brace set I got from Jep does a great job and I finally got a decent bulkhead.

I mentioned this on the other forum (HT), but some guys here aren't on that one, so I thought I'd ask here. The consensus seems to be that the best setup for all-terrain bashing with the Evader is 30wt shock oil and white springs. I did the swap yesterday and last night I kept flipping my truck. Part of that could have been from the servo messing up, but when I was installing the springs, they sure felt stiffer than the yellow ones and my truck had less roll when turning. Does using the higher weight shock oil make the shocks stiffer or is that just a spring issue? I'm really wondering about the springs, though, because I could swear that the white ones are stiffer than the yellow ones. It wouldn't surprise me if someone at the factory in China goofed up a whole batch of stiffer springs and painted them white by accident, though.

[ronbeck]

the bulkhead i broke yesterday was my first. have had truck since june. and when i first got i couldn't go anywere and not clip the front on something, or full throtle crashes into cars.

today's i was trying to hill climb a crushed rock pill(like drive way gravel) and bam popped a little pile on the hill side and it was done.


same break right along the a-arm pin, with the brace cracking under the e-clip.

kitty you have the aluminum bulk and jeps braces??
thanks.

[pudder]

Kitty- having a thicker weight shock oil doesn't "stiffen" up suspension, it just gives it a slower response. A slower response because the oil is thicker, and won't flow through the shock pistons as easily as thinner oil, giving a slower response one may say, but not always a bad thing to have. :) The sprngs are the actual part that does the stiffening. What are white springs at anyways (hard, soft...?) and with the thicker oil you probably won't bottom out on jumps as easily as you would before.

[TeamMishap]

Have some work to do with the motor. Seems like my 19T Chameleon is faster. Suppose I'll actually have to read the instructions for the Super Roost and motor. Make sure I have all the capacitors and stuff that's supposed to be there. Reset the slipper and the diff for the higher RPMs. And readjust the wheel geometries (camber and the like) after the rim/tire change. What a mess!

LOL

[jdm3849]

Make sure you are using at least 2400's with the 11 turn or you could fry the batts, anything below 2400 isn't made to run that low of a mod, they cant handle the amp draw. My friend had started 2 batteries on fire running a 10x1 with 1700's.


The white springs are soft, yellow is medium, green is stiff.;)

[p.n.e]

jdm's right, my 1800 packs just dont have enough juice to power my 9 turn 2 wind sg pro. even in side by side configuration they get pretty toasty and i can only get 3 mins of runtime on them. all the while it feels like i'm running on half empty batteries. the 2400's are the only ones that will have enough power to throw some rooster tails or do a burnout, but even the sanyo 2400's are running pretty hot in sidebyside. hope it goes away when i gear down cuz i am running in pretty cold temps.:(

[ameittunen]

hi does anyone know if duratrax will replace parts after the one year warranty is up? cuz I am coming up on that one year warranty and I know that I will break some parts this winter in the cold. Just the other day I was driving around and went off a little jump and landed wrong and broke the rear chassis plate. Does anyone run a speedgems 2 19t with a 21 tooth pinion? I do and was wondering how fast u think it goes.
AaRoN

[kitty]

ronbeck, I have the stock bulkhead and a set of Jep's braces. I highly recommend them. I personally think the principle of having a slightly thinner brace on the front and one on the rear as well is better than the thicker front-only aluminum one that Duratrax makes. Though it doesn't have that eye candy thing going on, Jep's set is cheaper.

Aaron, I've heard of a few people managing to get replacements after the one-year warranty.

You guys are probably gonna laugh your butts off over this one. Late last night, I was thinking about my spring conundrum and remembered that I only replaced the front set (I wanted to get out and bash so I left the rears stock for the time being). I dug through my two boxes of parts and found the other set of springs. Reading the label, I discovered that I'd replaced the front springs with the new rear ones. Duuuuh. I think I qualify to vote in Florida now. I have to disassemble the front end again this week to check and possibly replace my steering servo, so I'll put the correct springs on the front this time, change the oil in the rear shocks and put the correct springs on them. Sheesh!

Oh yeah, I also tried out my new wheel/tire combination the other night (Road Hawg II street tires on RPM Talonz) but only about two minutes on the road, I decided I like my HPI offsets with Dirt Hawgs better. If anyone around here is interested in buying or trading for them, please let me know. I wanted to let you guys know first before I post in the sale/trade area. The front wheels are already modified to clear the steering arms. I posted in Jerrit's Evader FAQ on Hobby Talk, my method of removing a little bit of material from the inner part of the front rims to keep them from rubbing the steering arms.

Take care, guys! Goofy me is hitting the hay a bit earlier tonight for a change =)

[TeamMishap]

I think my Cham2 is smoking my 11 turn motor. I noticed increased pep of the Chameleon after putting in the Super Rooster, but I'm disappointed with the low-turn's performance. Thinking about breaking some of my 2400 6-cell stick packs to make a 8-cell pack or two to see how that works.

[p.n.e]

thought of that but didnt know what to charge the cells with...my charger can only handle 7 max

[pudder]

What charger do you have?