Duratrax Evader ST Forum v2.0

[p.n.e]

pirana cx 15, its a 15 minute charger/discharger with a meter. i wanted to get a mrc superbrain but the lhs didnt have any. i swear their stock is at least 3-4 years old. they didnt have a tmaxx or emaxx, only a old stampede.:(

[JoeUSA 1]

delete

[JoeUSA 1]

this is what it's all about

[grewst]

Okay,, If you have read some of my posts from other forums,, you may know that my opinion of the evader is less then desirable..
In other words I personally think it is junk,,, The truck drives great when it is not broken ,, some of the parts i Have broken are (2 bulkheads,2pr front a arms, fr hubs, fr knuckles, striped sevo gears, 3 servo horns, transmission brace, 2 sets of hinge pins)


But,,,,,I have decided to give the truck some upgrades to see how sturdy it can be,,,before I give up on it. (actually I will be giving it to my son, so I want it to be a little more bullet proof,,if thats possible)

I just ordered the alum. front bulkhead,, Ti hinge pins, Diff rebuild, shock rebuild, higher torque servo w/MG

I just replaced the knuckles, f and r hubs, f and r a arms, rear plate..
can anyone think of something I missed??

BUT,,, I have one big question
Has anyone found a way to reduce the chassis flex in the rear end ?????
I thought about adding an alum brace of some sort. connecting the chassis and rear chassis plate(flat against the inside of the chassis connected with screws from underneath),, in an effort to reduce the flex. My only concern is that the batteries will not fit properly.. it was already a snug fit

any ideas????

[kitty]

grewst, if you've broken hinge pins, you need to work on your driving skills! Stop sign poles are for holding stop signs :D

As for rear chassis flex, it's made that way for a reason. You remove the flex and it puts strain on other parts (especially rear suspension arms, shock tower and transmission brace).

The original tranny brace on mine finally gave up on me last week. It was the original that came with the truck (early, brittle version) so I had a spare, knowing that I'd need to change it eventually. It had previously stripped a ball stud hole, but CA glue made it last a bit longer and when it broke, it did so on the opposite side.

Oh yeah... My batteries mount in pretty tight too. I cut the battery foam thingy on mine to mount part of it up front to 1) cushion the front of the battery; 2) put slightly more weight on the rear. I left a small sliver of it out to accomodate the wires on stick packs because they fit a bit too snug for my comfort. I took the leftover piece, cut it in half and mounted the bits on both sides of the battery tray to keep it centered. I also removed a bit of the foam from the underside of my battery strap because with most packs, it's a royal pain to get the retaining clip on otherwise.

[p.n.e]

they've put the nitro evader page up on duratrax! go check it out :) www.duratrax.com

[grewst]

What, I never said I broke the hinge pins,, They just got all bent up when everything else broke (2 broken fr bulkheads = 2 new sets of pins) Only one set of fr a arms and bulkhead were broke because of hitting anything,,, all kinds of other stuff has broken under normal driving

I was attempting to make this truck as sturdy as it can be.
I am sick of fixing stuff because it disintegrated, landing the doubles, or trying to hold a high speed corner.
I own an Evader st, a T3, and an RC10 champ buggy. They all get driven on the same track,,, the EVST is just always breaking,, The only problems I have with my other cars are the T3 keeps throwing the axle pin(shrink tube), RC10 has sloppy steering, but no breakage, yet. ( the AE's are older too).

I want to give this truck one last try before I sell it or something, so I am tryng to build it up(I am giving to my 11 yr old son for Christmas,, I give up on this truck personally).

Evader:
stock radio, stock esc, Paradox stock 27T motor, Hitech super torque servo w/ MG, Ti hinge pins, Ti turnbuckles, Ti hinge pin brace(hand machined), aluminum front brace, aluminum transmission brace, aluminum fr bumper(hand machined), aluminum fr hub carriers,all new plastic for everything(yes everything, and blue where I could), new bearings, new blades up front and new dirt hawgs in the rear..
And even after all these hop ups I wouldn't slap my super rooster, and 12t speed gem in and drive it

I was hoping somone had found a way to stiffen up the rear end to reduce chassis flex????

[kitty]

Sorry, grewst, but you did list hinge pins in the list of things you've broken. No biggie.

I fully understand your frustration with your Evader as I too have had major problems with mine. Much to my dismay, I found that the one I bought was one of the first ones made and thus had the brittle parts problem (the date of manufacture is on the bottom of the box). I've replaced two front bulkheads (one that was brand new, but brittle - apparently they sent me NOS [new old stock] replacements) two front suspension arms, both on the same side, a king pin, two body mounts, two top braces (both brittle replacements :mad:) and a lately a rear tranny mount.

The king pin and one suspension arm was definitely my fault for running into a pole next to my driveway. The driveway was a bit damp and I mis-judged going between two poles. The second suspension arm went bye-bye because the replacement bulkhead I had just installed was a brittle replacement that snapped from the center out to the hinge pin during a power slide. When that came loose, the suspension arm dropped and made a hole in the dirt, thus ripping the entire assembly off my truck. At least my new RPM ball cups didn't fail like the originals did.

I'm hoping that all the replacements I'm having to go through will deplete their stock of the old garbage so they'll send the better stuff to me. It is getting ridiculous so I do agree with you on some points. I've even referred to mine as a "Duratrash" a few times lately because I have spent more time repairing it than playing with it. I haven't given up complete hope yet, but will be buying an E-Pede for bashing and save the Evader for dirt only.

[guver]

It looks like dtx has beefed up the front bulkhead. My new one has some more ribs on it. Also the chassis, but I heard that b-4.

I filled my last one with epoxy--haven't broken it yet.

[jep_rc]

Guver - that's great news about the bulkhead. I tried filling with Epoxy but broke one anyway (before the Jep-R/C brace). I think filling with urethane or something with a little bit of flex would be better.

Jep

[k_sw31]

Shoe goo :)

[TeamMishap]

Hey Jep! Saw you in RCCA mag this month. Still hoping to see my Evader in there. Guess maybe you have to submit it before it has a chance of getting in the mag

[k_sw31]

What page?

[MrHorspwer]

Hey all... I finally got the Evader. Just in time for winter:rolleyes: Anyhow, I've already torn the thing down do mount up all my electronics... only to find my last servo to be stripped:mad: I've got nothing but time until I get another one. My question to all you... how do you have your ESC's mounted? I will be putting my Rooster in soon and need a place to mount it. Do I put it in place of the original... or will it get too hot due to lack of airflow? The ESC dosen't exactly fit on the side of the chassis... I could fashion a block to hold it above, but it would then hang over the lip of the chassis and I'd be afraid of landing damage. Any insight?

[k_sw31]

I found the best place to mount esc's on any off road vehicle is the rear shock tower. That way, it isn't sitting on the bottom of the chassis were it just soaks in water and debris, or anything that gets on the chassis, plus, there is a lot bor airflow around the esc, it works pretty good. :)

[grewst]

I mounted my rooster to the rear shock tower and heat was never an issue.

[guver]

yes jep and k thats a good idea. I was thinking the harder the better on filling the front bulkhead, I've only broken about 6 , so I'll see if I break the two I filled with epoxy.

I first thought ca glue , and then realized it doesn't dry--duhh??
Another tip I will try is to put two more small bolts thru the rear brace to the bottom outside corners of the trans brace where it flexes so much. Hopefully to keep the corners from breaking off. I think i've only broken 6 of them also.

How about someone address where to put the camber links on both ends (front,rear,inside,outside) and why and what difference it would make. I've noticed that the camber changes throughout the suspension travel when they are moved around. I like to keep my kingpins all the way down so they don't bend, and my rear camber links on the inside of the trans brace for srtength.

Dtx has been treating me good as far as replacements go. Also I ordered some long ball studs like on the evbx for the trans brace.

[guver]

I mounted my esc's (styock sprint) on their side so the wires are coming out the top clear in the left rear corner of the chassis. That way the airflow blows thru the cooling fins and I can still unbolt the trans brace. I was thinking mounting it as low as poss. and as back as far as poss. Then I put the switch on the rear of the esc just inside and above the chassis.

[k_sw31]

But see, the point of filling the bulkhead with epoxy is that so it doesn't break, right? I flexibility is the key for parst not to break, so if you fill it with rigid epoxy it will be more likly to break than if you use the somewhat flexible shoe goo. :)

[pudder]

Hey guys, sorry I havent been around to posting in a while. Yesterday I drove my Evader for the first time in months, I was playing tag with my friends pede and suprisingly I never broke a part and it was - degree weather! :) Sandpaws are great in snow ;)

[k_sw31]

Snow is fun, easy to build jumps, cushions landings... :D

[guver]

hmm never been in the snow with my evader -- Maybe I should add some paddle tires to my next order or make some chains or studs. Kinda afraid of ruining my esc or receiver though.

[k_sw31]

Just modify a couple of tupperware containers, its really easy :)

[p.n.e]

balloons or latex gloves work too, or just plastic sandwich baggies

[k_sw31]

The ballons and little sandwhich bags tore apart in just a few batteries for me, instead what I do is I have modified a reciever box for my T3 and when I wanna waterproff my dually, I put it in an oversized, slightly modified tupperware container, so it doesn't get too hot. :)

[jep_rc]

Originally posted by TeamMishap
Hey Jep! Saw you in RCCA mag this month. Still hoping to see my Evader in there. Guess maybe you have to submit it before it has a chance of getting in the mag

TM - which month? I had a forum post in Xtreme RC but I didn't see anything in December RCCA.

Jep

[k_sw31]

Ya, i didn't see it either.

[p.n.e]

me neither, flipped thru a couple times..

k_sw31 do you run with your body off? must be pretty agressive if u ripped a bag to shreds. i cant find a tupperware container small enuff. where would you mount it?

[kitty]

Has anyone considered using something like either that brush-on electrician's tape stuff or possibly Plasti-Dip for weather proofing stuff?

Where in the current RCCA is Jep supposed to be? Do you mean a pic of his truck/him or a letter? Do tell!

I was reading back a few pages because I thought I'd forgotten something and noticed a similarity in broken bulkheads with a few of us. One of you said it broke on the left side by the suspension arm. By left side do you mean looking at it from the front or from the rear (like you would from sitting inside a car)? The reason I ask is because my last bad one broke right at the suspension arm on the right side as viewing it from the front. Nothing else broke with it, though I did lose an e-clip. The corresponding link pin was just fine though.

I did hear back from a representative at Duratrax regarding a few issues. It was a very nice reply and he mentioned working with a few guys to figure out their tranny problems (sounds like someone from around here hehehe). I'll keep you guys updated on how the "conversation" goes. There's more, but I'm not saying anything right now because it's pending.

G'night, guys!

[ronbeck]

it was me kitty. when i referred to left i ment from inside the truck, okay the right side if your looking at the truck. both broke though the pin honlder for the front a-arn, right behind the e-clip(not lost one yet). :rolleyes:

[Freediver]

Has anyone upgraded their servo to a Hitec with metal gears? If so, what servo arm are you using and what, if any, modifications are required?:confused:

[TeamMishap]

They had his reply to a Losi/Evader tire compatibilty question. Can't get the page number right now. I'm writing a paper and snuck upstairs away from the kids. It was a little blurb in the Q&A section. Left hand page, bottom, left. My photographic memory doesn't work for page numbers. :)

Thanks for the reminder kitty. I'll send that tranny stuff in to DTX.

[k_sw31]

k_sw31 do you run with your body off? must be pretty agressive if u ripped a bag to shreds. i cant find a tupperware container small enuff. where would you mount it?

Well, frankly i dont have an evst, but I have a t3 which is close enough plus I hepl my friend work on (or destroy, whatever ;) ) his evader. What I do though is I modify the container properly, then I get some zip ties and slap it on the rear shock tower :) Then, i thorow the body (I move the tupperware container down enough) and drive. :) Oh yeha, i you are really nervous about water getting in, put some grease where the wires exit the container, preventing the entrance of water.

Teammishap, I didn't see anything :( Can you find a page number?

[jdm3849]

FreeDiver: I have a Hitec 645MG servo with 133oz/in. of torque in my evader currently, very soon it's going into my X-NT. Ther was a set of spare servo arms that came in the box with the servo. I took a red one with four sides and chopped 3 sides off and left one of the thick sides for the ballstud to go into. I took off three of the sides with a kitchen knife and then made the second hole from the top large enough for the ballstud to screw in snug. I made the hole with a drill that is really old and has gears that make the bit spin and you have to turn a lever to make it turn. Once I screwed the ballstud into the arm all I did was install it and I was set. Its hard to explain over the computer.

[jep_rc]

Hi Everyone -

Mishap is referring to an article in the December "Xtreme RC Cars" magazine. It is the regular feature where informative forum posts are used as a sort of Q&A article. I answered a question about which wheels fit the Evader and they published it! It was kind of cool seeng my Nym in the magazine. I don't feel like walking upstairs to get the mag and page number right now - maybe later.

BTW - I just emailed some pics (see the XX-T thread) to RCCA for their reader's ride section. I hope I win a free subscription. I'll let everyone know if they are published.

Still,
Jep

[TeamMishap]

Sorry Jep. I read all Xtreme RC Car, RC Car, and RCCA. I got confused. Been working my brain too hard and not playing with my Evader enough I guess.

So is the Readers Rides submission page working now? I've had no luck with it.

[grewst]

Freediver,,, you could get the losi xx-t servo saver set(some of the parts are interchangable),,, It comes with a hitech servo arm that is a direct fit,, all you will need is a nut to back the ballstud,,GL

[Freediver]

Grewst & jdm3849,,, thanks for the tips. I upgraded my servo to a Hitec 645 and an aluminum servo arm. Being that the Evader's servo arm is at an offset angle, this creates various problems (binding & bottoming out) when using a straight arm. I was aware that some of the parts on the Losi are compatible, but I never considered its servo saver set. Will check the LHS tomorrow. :cool:

[jep_rc]

Originally posted by TeamMishap
So is the Readers Rides submission page working now? I've had no luck with it.
I emailed the pics for submission to the magazine's Reader's Ride section. I have not tried posting them to the website section yet. I will let you know if it works for me when I do.

Jep

[pudder]

Since you were talking about steering... the T3's steering bellcranks are the same things as the Evaders, but they are a tiny bit shorter (height from chassis to top plate).

[kitty]

Peter - That's exactly where my last bulkhead broke. The new ball cups I have on mine were the only thing holding the entire arm/wheel assembly to the truck. RPM ball cups = very good hehehe Nothing else was broken. The suspension arm had pieces of the bulkhead still attached to it. I've had a few nasty rollovers since, but no broken parts. I think Jeff's brace kit has something to do with that ;)

The only other problem I'm having right now is that the inner camber link ball studs on my truck keep loosening and I just replaced the tranny brace. I don't get it. I'd like to find a way to get the studs to stay in because I'm having to re-tighten them after every bash fest. I'm thinking this is a job for pudder (The King of Improvisational RC Fixes). :D

Lately I've been in frequent contact with the guy from Duratrax. He apparently is fairly high up the corporate ladder and is a really super guy. I had made some suggestions for improvement to the Evader, a few of which have been passed on to the design team. Pretty cool, eh? hehehe Anyway, he is aware that some of the guys on a few RC forums were discussing issues in regards to the Evader's gear box. I remember a few accounts of stripped idler gears and one or two diff gears as well. They are very interested in knowing more about such because if there is a consistent problem, they want to find a way to fix it.

If any of you have had tranny problems, please let me know. I need specifics, such as spur/pinion and motor you are running, as well as what type of surface you usually race/bash on.. stuff like that. The more info I can give them the better.

[jep_rc]

Hi Kitty,

See my post on HobbyTalk for more discussion of the tranny.

Re: Ball studs. I noticed mine would get loose in really hot weather. A couple of the inner studs and one knuckle stud actually pulled completely out. I got frustrated and glued them in with JB Weld which solved the problem. Others have replaced them with long-shanked ball studs and a backing nut (where possible) - this is a good solution as well.

Jep
Jep-R/C Products

[TeamMishap]

I've already forwarded all the tranny problem posts from this forum to Duratrax.

[pudder]

Kitty- you could also use CA glue as a threadlock.

I am thinking about makinga snow oval in my yard when there is some more snow to pack down. Anyone want to come and race Evaders? :D I havent replaced a part on mine in so long, probably because I never drive it. :(

[p.n.e]

pudder i've tried :p the turning was absolutly horrible and when it hit a high patch of snow it would get stuck :( when i ran it on some firmer snow a lot of times it'd just dig itself into a hole. it really strains the diff too, a lot of times one wheel is completely stoped and the other is going full. i also messed up a rear shock cuz the oil was waaaay to thick in the colder temps, this was only like -10 C too...just wait till its -20

[pudder]

I have tried it before... I know it is good

Know what I do, I wait till we have some snow, then we will snowblow the yard a bit, and have a patch for my track, it will be all packed down, and I also shovel it so it is nice and hard. We have a small TRACTOR so it is possible to do these things. :)

[p.n.e]

pudder do you live on a farm or an acerage of some sort? (judging by ur videos) be sure to put a patch of ice somewhere in that track to make things a little interesting :D

[pudder]

I will be slipping around as it is. Since you brought it up, my yard is 8.5 acres.

[kitty]

Jeff- yup, I saw it all over on HT and copied everything to a text document and plan to attach it in my next email to him. Again, thanks!

pudder - thanks for the mention about using CA. I used some on my previous tranny mount when one of the ball studs stripped out. When the mount broke on me a few weeks ago (side opposite the glued-in stud), I had a heck of a time getting the bugger out. I do not know why I didn't think of gluing the studs into the new mount. It's just been one of those days. Thanks, bro!

Mishap - Are you in contact with anyone in particular over at Duratrax? If so, please let me know via PM =)

pudder again - "That ain't no yard. That's a small ranch!" hehehe

Some of you guys keep talking about this snow stuff. What exactly is snow? Just kidding, guys. The only time we see snow around here is on TV. :(

[p.n.e]

maybe for christmas i'll ship a box over to u kitty :p j/k its not that fun when u have to shovel a foot of it off your driveway:(

[pudder]

Get a snowblower! :D You would like to see my driveway... its about 200m! Maybe someday I will take a picture, but right now the sky is ugly grey so I am not in picture taking mood, plus my camera is dead. :(

I think I'm going to drive my Evader some more today. I am going into Winnipeg with my friend and we're going to pick up a new body for his rustler and we'll go to mcdonalds and eat with his employee discount.

Any of you guys ever wear sandals outside in the winter?? I found them to be very comfortable as long as you are in hard packed snow like on a driveway... remind me of little versions of my snowshoes I wear everyday. ;)

[TeamMishap]

I thought I was the only twit that did that. I used to go to class in Adidas Massage Sandals, shorts, and a T-shirt, rain, shine or snow, unless it was under 20 degrees. I'm thinking I have hyperthyroidism or something. I can't stand heat. LOL

[pudder]

Hmm.. I don't wear shorts, I dont know why, I just dont. I guess I am outside doing things too much, oh ya, the mosquitos too... :(

[pudder]

Hey guys, I am at my friends house in Winnipeg right now, and I just broke the rear end of my chassis off of my evader ! :D It was so sweet, I was bashing around the parking lot, and I saw some stiars, the top step being about 8 feet from ground level, so I took a good run, cleared them all and landed from 8 feet high! I then bashed around some more in the parking lot, then decided to go back to the steps for another jump...

Bad plan, I cleared all of the steps, but when I landed heard a loud crack and my chassis snapped just before where the battery inserts in the back! I just laughed and walked back to the house, man was that sweet! when I get home I will take some pictures since I dont have my camera with me at the moment.

[p.n.e]

yea i usually do that when i break stuff, or say to myself ooooh!! what a wipeout! heheh. then i try to run it more and see if it still works. its better than gettin mad and throwin it at the wall (i'd much rather make a ramp facing a wall then throw it) good luck fixin it up tho, some CA glue outta work, and some ducttape :D

[pudder]

i have a spare chassis at home

[p.n.e]

great! you'll be rollin in no time!

i have a question, on the futaba pistol radio, theres a small jack for charging batteries. what kinda adapter should i use to plug in this? how many volts and mah? i am charging 1800 mah nimh batteries. thx

[pudder]

I am not sure about that but I charge my batts on my charger at 1.5 amps.

[k_sw31]

I charge aa's (4) at 3 amps, I think it is a little much, but 1.5 amps takes too long, i think some where around 2 or 2.5 would be good.

[pudder]

3 amps is too much. Mine get at the right temperature when they are peaked at 1.5 amps, and it only takes as long as a regular pack to charge up to ful. (about 20 mins if batt is real dead for 8 cell pack)

[p.n.e]

what kinda voltage should the thing put out?

right now the adapters i have are

1. output 5.7V dc 500ma
2. output 9V dc 200ma
3. output 7.2 V DC 800 mA

the 3rd one is a dynamite nicd charger i used when i first got my car. maybe this charge rate is too high for nimh's?

[pudder]

PNE, I dont know if I can really help you there. All I can really say is that my TX pack peaks at just above 13 volts.

The pictures of my broken Evader are coming, I just made a picture archive on my site so I am uploading them all onto the server, it may take a little while. :)

[k_sw31]

now pudder, what takes skill is when you break the rear steel chassis plate on a T3 :) ;)

[MrHorspwer]

Well, it had to happen sometime... my first problem happened on the Evaders third run. First run was made with my Trinity Midnight 2... slowly as to wear in the diff. Second run was made with the 20T that came with the truck... after I had soldered on my deans connectors and broke in the brushes. Second run went well, no problems to report and the truck was quick. Before the third run I rechecked the diff, all good, and tightened the slipper a bit. I ran it through one very quick pack... it ran through a pack in about 2 minutes and had no punch. I figured the pack didn't peak well as it was a brand new pack. Wrong. I took the body off and my motor was smoking. Quickly removed the motor... very hot, burned fingers. The comm is a nice blue/purple color and the label had melted partially. Trying to figure out what went wrong now. The gear mesh on the pinion and spur was spot on, it wasn't too tight. Inspection revealed what appeared to be a warped spur gear... turns out the slipper was improperly installed, causing it to wobble. After the motor cooled down to the point where I could take the brushes out, I noticed both the brush lead eyelets were extremely loose... as in I could thread the screw out by hand. Any other ideas? The motor has cooled down now and I'm gonna try it on another run. Any idea if I can get a new motor from DuraTrax since this one is probibly trashed?

[k_sw31]

You should be able to, my friend got a new one when he sent his fried motor withy the car in :)

[pudder]

Originally posted by k_sw31
now pudder, what takes skill is when you break the rear steel chassis plate on a T3 :) ;)

Actually, the plates are aluminum. :)

[k_sw31]

Well, the factory team blue ones are, but the regular black one are steel :)

[pudder]

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02245.JPG

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02250.JPG

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02251.JPG

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02248.JPG

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02247.JPG

I hope you guys like. :)

[k_sw31]

WHoly Cr@P!!!!!!!! :eek: What a nice clean snap, Pudder, I commend you ;) Oh yeah, where'd you get thase paddle tires foe your buggy?

[pudder]

Hehe, I just stuck the buggy in every picture just so people would see it.

I got those tires at the hobby shop here, they are DuraTrax tires for buggies. I was also using paddles on my truck when I broke it but I was using pro-line truck ones.

[pudder]

Oh ya, I forgot to say, the black ones are aluminum. They would rust otherwise when they are scratched and get wet. I also know they are aluminum because my friends plate was so worn out, you could just tell. :)

[k_sw31]

I am pretty convinced they are steel, aluminum tends to bend right? Well, the plate literally snapped in 3 places, absolutly no sign of bending at all. :)

[kitty]

Jon - thanks for the offer! Too bad it would be just a wet box by the time it got here. It's supposed to be in the 70s again this week. At least it's better than the 80s we were having this past week. I have lived in places where it snows (Montana when I was very young and Iowa about five years ago), so I was just kidding about not knowing what snow is. I do like the stuff in spite of the shoveling.

pudder - ouch! Good to know that you have a spare chassis. That's a case in point as to why they have that warning about racing the truck at temperatures below 40°F. Ah well, from the pics it's the old chassis style anyway. At least you had fun doing it!

MrHorsepower - why not just replace the stock motor with an inexpensive aftermarket motor?

k_sw31 - if it broke, it likely was aluminum. Steel will bend and is a more malleable material. Some aluminum alloys will just snap, while some will bend, but if you try to bend them back they too will snap. Aluminum is less malleable than steel.

[pudder]

Something very interesting will be posted soon...

[MrHorspwer]

MrHorsepower - why not just replace the stock motor with an inexpensive aftermarket motor?

I planned from the beginning to replace it with a 15T Speed Gems Pro Titanite... but why throw away an *almost* perfectly new motor? Besides, I'm cheap and like hassleing manufacturers for free stuff:D Maybe I'll use the 20T for winter snow bashing;)

[grewst]

Kitty,,

I recently burned up an idler gear,, with the stock 20t,,, on a hard packed track with loose corners and very rough transitions.... while inspecting the transmition up close I also discovered that the plastic diff nut was so chewed up that it was pulling the locknut thru,, (another rebuild),,,, I will just bite my tongue as a send this post


Grewst

[baneonrt]

k_sw31,

Test it with a magnet. That'll tell you it's not steel. :)

Steve

[k_sw31]

Good thinking ;) :) Guess it was my bad, must be aluminum.

Pudder? What are you gonna post?

[sycotikskir]

Hey Pudder I have snapped three chassises (sp?) pretty much in the same palce as you did. I guess the evader isn't made for 20 foot high launches. If only I had a digital camera I could show you all the stuff it was doin. I just snapped my front a arm jumpin it in my backyard. I was clearing a good 50 feet of hill when I snapped it.

[grewst]

Ok,, I finally idler gear that burned up,, and the rest of the gearbox parts(yes I am replacing every single piece of the tranny,,diff gear,, bearings, top shaft,idler gear,, ball bearings bearing plates, slipper,and the gearbox)

My problem is that after I put it all together the rear axle gets hung up on the diff nut. I have taken it apart to make sure that something inside didn't move(ball bearings). Everything is were it was supposed to be so I tried again, and the same result. I took the tranny completely apart, and tried one more. The axle is still getting hung up on the diff nut.. any suggestions???

[Prinler]

Diff nut? the one that you wench down to tighten the diff? Maybe the wrong size?

[jep_rc]

Re: Grewst - diff nut.

Seems like someone else had this problem and they had accidentally switched the slipper spring and the diff spring. The diff spring is shorter and will compress farther so the axle doesn't hit. Also make sure you are getting the diff screw tightened all the way until the diff spring is fully compressed. Also make sure the plastic diff nut carier is in the right way (not backwards).

Jep

[pudder]

Long post... Taken from my site... Read it all please. :D

became inspired by this project when I broke my Evader's chassis after landing the rear end of my chassis on the edge of a step from an 8 foot jump... also buy another guy who has already done this, but not quite like I did mine.

I started looking at the truck one night, remembering this other truck that was made, and well that is where I got the idea to do this.

I started out by taking a battery and measuring the width of two cells on the chassis right behind the front brace since that is where I would place the battery. I then made my line across the chassis and cut it. After that I did some customizing to the rear chassis plate, and removing the rest of the broken chassis, I drilled 4 holes in the chassis and rear chassis plate. I had some spare screws lying over from project RC10 and nuts to finish, so I used those. At this point, the chassis still has lots of flex so I rigged up an aluminum brace, it doesn't help with the flex too much but it does make the overall look better and a nice spot to mount the battery on. For the antenna mount I couldn't use the stock one on the chassis so instead of borrowing one off of my other cars I drilled into the top plate and the chassis, then drilling another hole in the chassis to mount (see the picture for understanding better). For easy access, I glued a strip of velcro to the top plate, but sadly while drilling the antenna holes I somehow cut the wire and had to replace it. As usual, I just ziptied the ESC to the shock tower. Battery mounting was also easy, I just had to drill 2 holes on either side of the chassis and thread a ziptie through it.

For electronics I used my Novak Racer ESC, a stock 27t motor, nice low gearing, and JR XR3 radio. My first run was in my living room/kitchen with those narrow ribbed tires and losi step pins on the rear. My suspension was way too stiff and I kept flipping backwards from the power. I then softened the springs up, the truck now sat lower and swapped the step pins for some Pro-line Road Rage 2 tires. The truck was low enough so that it didn't flip backwards, and so I don't wear down those step pins too much.

Please check out the pictures below, and/or download the video.

video: http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/MOV02288.MPG

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02275.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02276.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02279.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02280.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02277.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02278.JPG

The video was taken inside because I was just by myself and it was already dark outside. :)

[Prinler]

Unable to get movies to work hommie.

[pudder]

It works for me, and my friend who downloaded it.

[grewst]

my rear axle is still hitting the diff nut,,,, all the parts for the tranny are new(yes all of it).

The diff nut is in the right way and the diff spring is new right out of the package last night. I even tightened the diff down so much that it snapped one of the thrust plates

[Prinler]

Sell it and buy a maxx. your to hard on your diff.

[grewst]

To hard on my diff??? do you read english???
I am trying to rebuild the tranny on my evader POS(not meaning to go there guys,, really) and the thrust plate snapped while I was wrenching on it trying to get the axle to clear the diff nut.. every single piece is new minus one thrust plate...

I have taken the tranny apart to service it a dozen times or more and it has never been a problem until now

[Prinler]

Can i read English? Whos the one with 2 working diffs.? oh yeah me. Not you Me :)

Anyway. Got a diggi cam? send us some pix. :)

[grewst]

sorry I can't do pics,, I initially rebuilt the the tranny because I stripped the idler gear,, and the gearbox itself was stripped(even after several coats of CA glue,,, I have had my evst for awhile and started with one of the earlier defective ones so I am replacing all the plastics anyways) if I put the idler gear in the old tranny it works fine,,, but its stripped,,, if I take the insides of the old tranny and put them in the new gearbox I still can't get it to clear the diff nut(could the problem be with the gearbox???)

I am becoming frustrated with my diff,,, I am sick of wrenching on my evader(the truck is 7 months old and has already spent more the half that time broken),,, any suggestions would be appreciated

[p.n.e]

isnt there a way to get a xxt gear box to fit? some creative dremeling maybe?

[k_sw31]

By a T3! ;) :) Best trannys in the world :)

[grewst]

there goes another thrust plate

Please don't get me started on the evader,,, I own a T3(I love it),,, as a matter of fact its about two weeks older then the EVST,, and it finally gave me my first problem,,, unlike my evader which seems to always be broken... enough said on that

[Prinler]

Project Kill it to death:

Today i took my evader. Poped in a speed gem 13 x 3 on the sprint ESC. What do you think happened?
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Next I charged up my packs. Soldered a Y spliter. Conected 2 packs. one of top of eachother. Duct taped the second one on. Plug it into the sprint esc. Went out side. And once again guess what happened.

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Isnt this fun?
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ok enuff ... i had 2 6 cell packs and a 13x3 on the stock esc. and i was unable to blow it up. I dont get it. The thing hauls butt too!!!
Not bad for an esc only rated for a 20 turns and 7 cells.

Anyone got any more ideals? 3 packs maybe?

[Prinler]

oh i forgot to mention. The esc barely got warm. You think this voids my warentee? :p haha

[jep_rc]

Originally posted by p.n.e
isnt there a way to get a xxt gear box to fit? some creative dremeling maybe? Where there is a will, there is always a way... The Associated Stealth trannys are a much closer fit, they may even be drop-in. The Evader is a copy of almost everything on the XXT except the tranny, which is a copy of the stealth. To mount the XXT tranny, you would have to retrofit an XXT rear plate and motor mount, as well as rig up a brace to the rear shock tower. I'll get out both my trucks and do a closer assesment. Note: XXXT tranny's (complete) have been going for $30.00 - $40.00 on eBay. I wonder if one of those could be spliced on. The way I look at it, if I have to get too crazy with 20 bucks here, 30 bucks there, I might as well sell the Evader and buy a XXT or XXXT (or T3, but I am partial to Losi).

Jep

[pudder]

I have already looked into dropping an associated tranny in... It is a direct fit and all but you can't do it. Why not? The outdrives on a T3 are much smaller than the Evaders, plus you wouldn't be able to properly mount the motor gaurd since the T3 has one adjoined with rear chassis plate and motor plate, and there is no tabs on it like the Evader for mounting the gaurd. So basicly, it is a no go on the T3 one.

As for the xxt, I have no clue.

[grewst]

Ok,, I was having trouble with my axle hitting my diff nut,, but I solved the problem.. I was actually following the diagram instructions that came with the evader. The instructions say to slide the screw thru the male outdrive and the nut goes in the female side.. I tried this so many times that I was ready to take a sledgehammer to the whole thing... Then I got the idea of looking at the instructions for the T3,,, They say to slide the screw thru the female side and the diff nut goes on the male side,,, and guess what it worked...
I am wondering was i still putting the diff together wrong?? Are the instuctions for the evader's diff wrong???

[pudder]

Probably.

[jep_rc]

Grewst - good catch! the diagrams in the manual and exploded view (available on Duratrax's site) are both wrong in my opinion. My truck has always had the head of the diff screw in the Right (female) outdrive (part 93 in the diagrams) and the diff nut goes in the Left (male) Outdrive (part 92). I think you have it together correctly now.

Jep

[k_sw31]

Boy ,I was thinking of buying an evader, but the horrific things I have heard go on here turn me away. ;) I think I will get a mad bull :)

[p.n.e]

the mad bull looks sweet! very cool.. too bad its kinda old.. otherwise i'd get one just to mess around with and put on the shelf for display :p

[pudder]

Ya, if I wanted another truck to bash with I'd get a traxxas stampede. :)

[k_sw31]

Ugh, don't bring back horrific memories of my rustler :(

The tranny's are CRAP!! Even worse than the evaders :( But the one good thing is the chassis and arms etc. are indestructibble :)
Hmmmm, if you could adapt a stealth tranny to one of those...:p

[p.n.e]

well winters just about here in canada and i dont wanna be sitting in the house all christmas break! any ideas for winterizing the evader? right now tire chains aint cuttin it cuz the chassis has so little clearance. the (tiny )wheels just scoop out snow until it digs itself into a hole. im thinkin a more agressive approach, like making aluminum plates to attach to the chains to act as paddles, and possibly ski's in the front? i even considered using some of my dads old chop saw blades for wheels, and just glueing some paddles to those..:p im gonna see if i can get a digi cam for christmas so i can get some pics of my evader up!

[grewst]

jep,,,, has your diff given you problems with it being put together like that,,, I just bought and built this one after frying my other diff,, I would hate for it to happen again

TY
grewst

[pudder]

pne- get some Sand Paw tires from proline, and as long as you are going a decent speed you should be able to get though just about anything. :)

[CanuckRacer]

Its cool to see a forum for the Evader. I've had mine for about 5 months now and absolutely love it. About 7-8 years ago I was previously into RC and bought a RC10 kit. I didn't really know enough and it didnt come out too well, though I was only 13!. This time around I decided to go with the prebuilt and I use an Airtronics CX2P w/ the servos and reciever it came with. I must say the knowledge I've gained from wrenching on my evader has helped me learn ALOT and I'm pretty sure my next kit I will put together myself. As for the bashing ability of the evader, I'd say its great. I live in the backwoods of Ontario, we have a huge lot and I have run it into trees, off huge jumps (long piece of plywood leaned onto a picnic table!) and the only thing I have broken to date is a front suspension arm from hitting a bump and veering straight into a rock! I'm surprised I didn't break more, just the arm and a chip off the front bumper. I think the evader is capable of racing modified, especially considering all the aluminum hop ups duratrax has released for it. My only mods so far are the blue EVST rims all the way around and a set of pro-line 'backyard basher' tires on all four corners. The increased tire size and raising the ride height gives my truck a mean stance and helps it run over ruts, tree roots, etc. I hope to race this January at the closest track to me, about an hour away. Gonna have to get a set of foams since the track is indoors during the winter season. Does anyone here have any tips on suspension setups/foam tire choices for running indoors? Sorry for the long post, nobody in my towns into r/c though! Only 300 people in the whole town :p

[grewst]

p.n.e ,,,,,,,,, cheack out the tread "Ice Racing" in the general forum,, they have some good ideas

[LkHse]

What is the best motor that would work with the Stock ESC for under 50$ im lookin in terms of speed here. I was lookin at the MVP stock Plus the P2K2 or a speed gem.

[jdm3849]

It's regulation that all stock motor's have to be sold for under 40$ at store's to keep stock racing cheap. I would suggest a Trinity chameleon pro 2 because it is around 35 and it's a 19 turn and can waste those stock motors because it has the same can but with bearings and a better armateur. It is not legal for stock racing but it is legal for spec racing. It also gets decent run times and has awesome torque. I have the MVP and it is good for mid-range tracks. I suggest getting a regular p2k for stock racing because it has the torque you need for a stadium truck and even if it does'nt have the rpm a p2k2 does you can gear up because of the excess torque, not to mention lower rpm motors have better runtime.

[LkHse]

Anyone else got any opinions?

[thetimboroni]

You said that he could use a 19t motor in there. The stock ESC I thought could only handle 20+ turn motors. If I'm wrong, just how low can this "sprint" ESC handle.

[p.n.e]

on paper it handles 20, but in reality it can do around 17 if you watch it carefulyl and make sure it doesnt overheat.

[Matt (aka R/C)]

Well... the esc. have i ever had problems with it:mad: im getting my 3rd one now an upgrading. to tell the truth i dont trust that thing its crazy! Now if only it would've worked...:confused:
Well thats life and anyways i love my truck!



Matt

[pudder]

Originally posted by LkHse
Anyone else got any opinions?

Reedy MVP, I ******* love my MVP :)

[MrHorspwer]

I picked up a Speeds Gems Pro 15 turn @ my LHS last night. I also got a 18t pinion to go with it. Does the pinion sound about right? I figured it was better to undergear it than over gear it, so I went down a tooth from the "# of turns + 4" gearing method. Another odd bit I found, my truck came with a 21t pinion... the Evader FAQ on HobbyTalk says it has an 18t pinion out of the box, as does the truck instructions. Is it just my truck, or was this a running production change for all trucks?

[pudder]

I think mine came with a 19 or 18 pinion, it was way too undergeared. Your gearing should be okay, maybe might want to get down a tooth or two depending on motor temp. You should be able to hold your finger on the motor for atleast 3-5 secs before it starts to feel really hot on your finger.

[jep_rc]

I bought my two Evaders used on eBay a long time ago. One had an 18T, one had 21T, I don't know if it was stock though, as I am not the original owner.

Jep

[TeamMishap]

Think I may just hook up my 11 turn motor to the stock ESC for s###s and grins since I got my Super Rooster. Maybe it'll catch fire.

Just got an email today that the first Evader to make it into Racers Rides will be in the January 2003 issue of Xtreme RC. Finally some respect for our humble RTR trucks

[minijosh]

i have been debating on either the duratrax or the rc10t3. you might be bias but why should i get the ep st? i am leaning towards it though. hook me up.

[CalmCyclone]

If you want to experiment with different ways to make your truck more durable, get the Evader. If you want a truck that's durable and competitive out of the box, get the T3. I'd recommend the T3 Team truck. You should be able to find it for around $180 or so for the kit.

[pudder]

They are both very good trucks, T3 and Evader. I do own both, except I have the T3 FT truck. I found the T3 to be more durable, especially the gearbox, but there is nothing wrong with the Evader. Check to see what your LHS stocks more of, Team Associated or Duratrax parts/cars, because from there you want to get the best parts selection and availability.

[k_sw31]

Well, comparing my T3 (team built) to my friend's evader, I would definatly go with a T3. Why, well, with my friends evader (toadily stock except for tires and speed control) He has stripped a transmission gear, and broken countless numbers of parts in the year or so that he has had it. ON the other hand, in my T3, i have been running much hotter motors such as speed gems 13x3's and even brushless :) I have to say, in about hte three or so years that i have had my T3, I have broken the same amount of parts as my friend has in one year. Bottom line is, the T3 is a lot more durable, i mean, go back a few pages and chekc out the break that pudder did. :eek: NOw on the other hane, i landed from 10 feet up on to asphalt, and the only thing that happend was my gear mesh got knockted tight :)

So, i would go with a T3 if i were you :)

I would get the team built at sheldonshobbies.com for only 125$$ :D

[p.n.e]

the early evaders had some issues but the one ones have some improvements. they strengthed the plastic in a lot of areas etc. i've have no problems with my evader and i've been running a 9 turn in it and taking it off jumps like crazy. if you get an evader you might have more money for hopups, etc. and most plastic is covered from breakage by their stress tech warantee for a year.

[pudder]

Originally posted by Matt (aka R/C)
Well... the esc. have i ever had problems with it:mad: im getting my 3rd one now an upgrading. to tell the truth i dont trust that thing its crazy

I hate the stock ESC's. I sent two or three in, running a stock 27 t motor, I blew another one a few months ago and am not bothering to send this one back since my warranty is up. They are just pieces...

[p.n.e]

glad i sold mines to get a super rooster:D

i have a question, i think one of the cells on my 2400 pack is bad because it gets extremely hot when running, if i take it out of the pack and make it 5 cell, will my 6-7 cell charger be able to charge it?

[pudder]

Yes, it would. Won't get the performance out of it like before since one cell is gone but yes it should work fine.

[p.n.e]

alrite thanx buddy. tried it out and the meter tells me its charging it at 5 amps now instead of 4. i dont notice that much of a performance loss (probably cuz of the higher amp rate)so everythings fine.

[pudder]

That is good. The max amp rate that you should be charging batts is 5 amps too, so it does sound like everything worked out. :)

[jdm3849]

Will a 7-cell flat pack fit in the evader? I was thinking there is a clearance issue under the shock tower where that little channel is, I just bought a trinity batt pack with 1700's for 34$ with good sanyo cells (not generics) and I went to the track and they had dynamites with the same sanyo's but 7-cell's for only 24.99! So I want to know if I get it will it fit?

[TeamMishap]

7 Cell flats work fine. I've got an old Duratrax 7 cell pack. It's faster (more volts) but shorter run time (higher volt pull on same amp "gas tank" rating) than my 6 cell 1500mAh Duratrax pack

[TeamMishap]

Anyone interested in two 3000mAh packs for $50?

Brand new at Tower. Is this price crazy or what?
Team Orion Super Duty Plus 3000 E-Maxx (2) LXCUH3

Think I know what I want for Xmas now. Feel free to buy a set or two for me ;)

[Prinler]

I put 2 6 cells packs in my evader... If you want 7 cell packs. If there 7 cells side x side... not hump pack or anythiung. you just take out the foam at one end. makes room for that extra cell.

[MrHorspwer]

Woo Hoo! I broke it! Well... I broke a body mount. Pretty awsome crash... tumbled the truck 3 or 4 times end over end in the street. All I broke was the body mount. Lucky me.

The truck has a seriously bad landing style off jumps... nose first. Every time the truck leaves the ground, it burys the nose. What can I do to change this? Can I move the silly sponge block from the battery tray? It seems to be glued down, is it? Would white springs & 35 wt oil help?

[sycotikskir]

IF your nose keeps diving in the air try punching the throttle in the air. that will bring the front end very nicely. Punching he throttle on the take off also will get the nose up. Just practice. U wnana try and get the truck level or u will snap chassises like me. I have snapped 3 of them already
Good luck

[p.n.e]

just get behind the foam from the back and poke it out with a pencil or something, then slide your battery to the back.

[jdm3849]

Team Mishap, I already got the battery before you replied but yes it does fit.

How much less runtime do you get? Some people say that you can barely tell the difference in runtime. What is the difference in power?

[TeamMishap]

It's not an amazing power boost, but you can feel it.

Drop in run time maybe 30-60 secs. It really isn't huge.

[MrHorspwer]

Wow, more broken parts for me. I guess my idea of snug and other peoples idea of snug are different. I was adjusting the diff, snugging it down and backing off 1/8 turn. It didn't feel right... I guess I overtightened it and broke the thrust washer and crushed the bearing holder. Oops. Completely my fault. Oh well. At least it'll give me some time to see the inner workings of the diff and lube the gearbox.

Speaking of lube... what should I use to lube the diff? I'm using silicone grease to lube the gearbox, can I use the same for the ball diff?

[pudder]

Yes you can, but I believe that a grease like Team Associated Black Grease is the best, and more reccomended. I have tried the silicone stuff and with the RPM's my diff was spinning, it basicly all flew out and the black grease hasnt.

[grewst]

I use Bullshot super bicycle bearing grease in my diff, it stays were it is supposed to and spins nice and smooth.:D

On another note,, I just heard from duratrax costomer support,, they told me that the instructions for the diff assembly are incorrect the locations for the diff nut and screw are reversed. I just thought this may save someone the same hassle I just went thru...

Grewst

[pudder]

Grewst, it is nice to see you are taking part in the discussion, well, unlike before. :)

[grewst]

Sorry to disapoint you pudder but I still think my evader is a POS,, anyhow,, if I own one I just thought I would listen to you guys that like it and maybe learn something to make it a better truck and if I knew of anything that may be of help to someone else to share that knowledge... peace


Grewst

[pudder]

I don't mind that you still think that, you just aren't all raging like before. :)

[p.n.e]

when are you gonna show us those pics of ur evader pudder? ;) :p

[pudder]

Originally posted by pudder
Long post... Taken from my site... Read it all please. :D

became inspired by this project when I broke my Evader's chassis after landing the rear end of my chassis on the edge of a step from an 8 foot jump... also buy another guy who has already done this, but not quite like I did mine.

I started looking at the truck one night, remembering this other truck that was made, and well that is where I got the idea to do this.

I started out by taking a battery and measuring the width of two cells on the chassis right behind the front brace since that is where I would place the battery. I then made my line across the chassis and cut it. After that I did some customizing to the rear chassis plate, and removing the rest of the broken chassis, I drilled 4 holes in the chassis and rear chassis plate. I had some spare screws lying over from project RC10 and nuts to finish, so I used those. At this point, the chassis still has lots of flex so I rigged up an aluminum brace, it doesn't help with the flex too much but it does make the overall look better and a nice spot to mount the battery on. For the antenna mount I couldn't use the stock one on the chassis so instead of borrowing one off of my other cars I drilled into the top plate and the chassis, then drilling another hole in the chassis to mount (see the picture for understanding better). For easy access, I glued a strip of velcro to the top plate, but sadly while drilling the antenna holes I somehow cut the wire and had to replace it. As usual, I just ziptied the ESC to the shock tower. Battery mounting was also easy, I just had to drill 2 holes on either side of the chassis and thread a ziptie through it.

For electronics I used my Novak Racer ESC, a stock 27t motor, nice low gearing, and JR XR3 radio. My first run was in my living room/kitchen with those narrow ribbed tires and losi step pins on the rear. My suspension was way too stiff and I kept flipping backwards from the power. I then softened the springs up, the truck now sat lower and swapped the step pins for some Pro-line Road Rage 2 tires. The truck was low enough so that it didn't flip backwards, and so I don't wear down those step pins too much.

Please check out the pictures below, and/or download the video.

video: http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/MOV02288.MPG

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02275.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02276.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02279.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02280.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02277.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02278.JPG

The video was taken inside because I was just by myself and it was already dark outside. :)

[kitty]

Dang. I take off for nearly a week and missed all the drama :D

pudder - you are a madman! I love it! I'm collecting enough spare parts that I may have to do something similar. The video came through fine for me. Nice pirouette wheelies hehehe You need to enable reverse in that sucker when you're in the garage though ;)

On the subject of retrofitting trannies, what about the B2 Stealth? I haven't seen one close up yet, but from the pictures I've seen, it looks very much like the one on the Evader. Just a thought, though I've priced the B2 Stealth and unless you could find a good used one, it'd be too expensive.

Differential...I'll have to look more closely at mine again. When I rebuilt it, I put it back together the way it came - with the nut on the left side (left if you're looking at it from the rear of the truck). The original "ear" thingy was worn, but the rebuild kit had a new one. I ripped through the original by overtightening everything. Though I've only had it out for one running (three packs before I broke a hub carrier), it sure was smooth. Now I'll have to see how much difference there is in length between the left and right outdrives.

Jon - Winter's almost here in Canada? Oh wait. You wrote that a week ago hehe It's in the 40s here right now and it's been dreary all day. Nothing like cold rain. Ugh.

CanuckRacer - Welcome to the Evader forum! It's really nice to see someone write something so positive about the Evader and I'm glad you're having a lot of fun with yours. I too have learned a lot from wrenching on mine so the thought of buying a kit in the future doesn't intimidate me in the least.

MrHorsepower - Interesting on the pinion. Mine came stock with a 20t. Maybe the assemblers ran out of 20s on a few occasions and just substituted what they had? heh Either that or they have played around with different sizes at various times. Good job on only breaking a body mount. Last week, while jumping off a GhettoRamp (TM) my truck did a few serious cartwheels. I broke a front carrier hub and a body mount. The body mounts are still crappy, but the hub was definitely my fault. You can move the battery foam to the front to put more weight to the rear, but here's what I did: I removed it and cut about 1/3 off and moved that to the front. I since have switched to 1/3 rear, 2/3 front for better landings. The foam is in there tight, but not glued in. You can poke it out from the back side if you use a rod of sorts (no sharp tip, like a screwdriver - it'll munch the foam). Just keep nudging it and it'll loosen. I did the same thing to my original diff - snapped a thrust washer and hosed the bearing carrier.

Mishap - Congrats, dude!! I'll have to hunt down and buy that issue (RCX isn't as widely available here yet).

[pudder]

kitty, I believe that the 2 and 3 series of AE cars use the same stealth tranny. :) Also, the original RC10 won't work either, it seems AE uses the "smaller" outdrives on all of their cars. :)

Glad to hear you liked the vid. But... I don't have any ESC's with reverse.

[p.n.e]

kitty, winter got here a few weeks ago and we got some snow, but for now its warming up a bit, and i think fall's holding on with all its might. at least the streets are dry :). the last few winters up here have been really mild, last years was so bad there wasnt enough runoff from snow for the farmers crops. a lot of people say its cuz of global warming? i sure hope not :confused:

pudder, i dont know how i could have missed that! doh! how are you getting it to turn when its up on the back wheels? or is it just spinning of of control :)

[kitty]

<rant>

I say not. Though I was pretty POd at mine a few weeks ago, I now have a much better understanding of a lot of aspects. To begin with, I started out with one of the brittle originals. Surprisingly, the vast majority of broken parts were on the front end; a few times it was my fault. Though I had to rebuild the diff on mine, that also was my fault, as I had tightened it way too much and trashed a thrust washer and the bearing carrier.

From all the work that I've done on my Evader, as well as through correspondence with an influential representative from Duratrax, I have learned quite a lot about this sweet little truck. There have been a number of changes to parts since the beginning. Some changes are very obvious (slipper set, top brace), while some have been nearly transparent (chassis and plastic compounds used).

One thing we all have to keep in mind is that the Evader is still relatively new to the market. As with many other market debuts, it should be anticipated that the early versions of models may, and likely will, have bugs. The newest batch of Evaders have parts that are far better than those on the original rendition. The design team at Duratrax is constantly working to make the truck even better. I know this because of my correspondence with the aforementioned representative.

There are other changes in the works that probably will make a lot of us even happier. Please do not ask me what they are, as I am bound by honour not to tell anyone. I can say, however, that an idea I submitted based upon a conversation I had with one of you guys is being seriously considered. I have suggested a few other changes that also are being carefully studied.

So keep your eyes on the forum, guys; some of you will likely see mention of changes to the Evader on the Duratrax web site before I'm even told about them. That is expected, as even if I were told about them, I could not say anything until sufficient supplies are produced for aftermarket parts to be available through Tower Hobbies and those who are lucky enough to have a LHS nearby that stocks DTX parts to have them in stock.

Once again, please keep in mind that the Evader is still relatively new to the market, improvements will come to the market as they are developed. I have to applaud the design team at Duratrax for their continued dedication to product improvements. Also keep in mind that the Evader is a stadium truck, not a nearly-indestructible monster truck like the E-Maxx and thus you shouldn't expect it to perform like the Maxx. If you want a monster truck, then by all means buy one. The gang at Duratrax is making a concerted effort to make the Evader as bulletproof as possible, because they are very well aware that a lot of the trucks are being driven on terrain other than their intended purpose. That is a good thing for a lot of us, who are the ones who drive our trucks on just about any surface we have available.

Thanks for "listening," guys.
kitty

</rant>

[k_sw31]

WEll, htat sounds interesting. One thought though.

In my opinion, putting a truck on the market like the evader, only to discover it has some major problems, says a lot about a company. I mean, that pretty much means that duratrax hardly tested it at all, just putting it out on the market as testing makes me weary of duratrax vehicles, if there way of making stuff is to let the customers spend their money on it, so then they make the changes. TO me, that shows that they dont put a lot of thinking into it.

BUt, maybe if they were to come out wiht a new evader (or make some significant revisions) I would consider getting one. (like new tranny, stronger parts..)

My 2 cents.

[pudder]

Losi had a batch of bad plastic in the new XXX4's.

[kitty]

Thank you for mentioning that, pudder. You beat me to it. I've read so many posts lately by people who are really POd with their XXX4s it's not even funny. Does that mean that Losi plopped a new vehicle on the market so they could make more money on replacement parts and upgrades? I doubt it. I'd bet it was an engineering goof, just like on the first Evaders.

[pudder]

Possibly, they were meaning t oget it out for the holidays? I doubt it since all of their other vehicles seem to be of fair quality.

That is what I like about the AE cars. Thay could have had the B4 out for Christmas, but they decided to test, tool and make sure they get everything right. :)

[grewst]

I do understand that the earlier trucks had problems with the plastics,, I believe that those trucks and there replacment parts should have been recalled by the manufacturers,,, understandablly as a corporation they could not do that. Yes they do have the Stress Tech guarentee,, but what about the broken parts that are not covered by the warrenty(hingepins,turnbuckles,kingpins,transmissi on brace)). I guess what I really didn't appreciate the most was when I returned the first two sets of broken parts under warrenty they replaced them with more plastic defective parts, when I contacted them about it all I got was excuses. I will have to admit that the product has improved over time and is alot sturdier then the original models. I have finally purged all the defective plastic from my truck and it does hold up well,, of course a few choice upgrades don't hurt

Grewst

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by pudder
Losi had a batch of bad plastic in the new XXX4's.

See, that why I dont liek Losi's either ;)

AE is the best (in my opinion) because they do for a fact rigoroulsy test their products. Example, over the summer, around july, we started getting teasers of AE's BFT (now the monster GT) You go to their website for it, and it would say something like "testing stages" now i kept track of it fairly frequently, and well, it was like that till a month ago. SAme with the B4, the prototype was exposed about a monthy or more ago. Here it is now and there isn't even a link on their website for it, and numerous reports say "in testing stages" etc... Quotes from AE's website on the B4 "PROTOTYPE SHOWN.
NOW IN TOOLING STAGE.
KIT WILL NOT BE RELEASED FOR MANY MONTHS."

WHere as I first heard of the XXX4 a month or two ago, and its already out. Losi should have tested the first off the shelf batch, instead of rushing them for christmas time.

Just my opinion, I'm not going to start a war over this ;)

[pudder]

KSW_31, if you do know the AE site, there is still a direct link to the page for the B4 from the B3 page.

[Aluma]

well, lets try this on for size.... I was way faster with my evader in mod truck than with my MF XXX-T....:P the evader soared evenly through the air and landed perfect everytime, the MF just leans over and lands on the front wheels most of the time. geez, I guess i gotta play with the settings a bunch more. MY evader is one of the good ones cuz i've never broken a part. too bad i sold it. :P

[k_sw31]

PUdder, I found the link ;)


Aluma- MOre reason why I dont like losi's (even though all you need to do is tweek the suspention to fix that) AEAEAEAEAEAEAE oh, um... ya :p

[grewst]

Kitty,,,

there is nothing wrong with the diff,, just with the manuals instructions,, if your looking at the illustration in the manual,, were it shows which outdrive the screw and diff nut(or T nut) go into are incorrect,,, it shows the screw going thru the outdrive the holds the bearings which is incorrect,,, basically if you diff assembly is together flip it over before adding the screw and nut,,, yes the nut should still be on the left side if looking at it from the rear... The R&D dept confirmed that the manual is incorrect on the diff assembly

on another topic,,, My evader had a 21 tooth pinion when I bought it

and other topic,,, does anyone know if the inner diameter of the outdrive on losi xxt is the same or very close to the evaders,, I have ripped up several diff nuts(yes I like my diff tight)I was thinking of buying an alloy one from HGI if it fits

Grewst

[pudder]

Yes because some guy put xxt CVD's on his evader.

[racer234]

cool (I thought I'd post something so this forum goes to the top of the list)

[grewst]

Originally posted by pudder
Yes because some guy put xxt CVD's on his evader.

Do you know if those were a direct fit?? if they are I would be interested it doing that??

[p.n.e]

what are you running that requires cvd's? the only thing i can think of is brushless..

[grewst]

when I'm bashing(which is about all I do with the evader) I like to jack the suspension up some,, every once in a while the stock universals bind.. It's not really a big deal,, Actually,, I just like the cvd's alot better then universals,, If duratrax sold them as a hop up I would already have a set

[jon o]

I have an evader st. What's a paradox????:confused:

[grewst]

I believe the paradox is the original P2K stock motor,, I actually have one in my evader right now and its fast,, not as fast as the photon but still fast.


Grewst

[jon o]

so my photon is faster than the paradox? cool.:cool: :D

[Prinler]

Woot
Just got a free Futaba mc330 13 turn limit reversable esc... slapped that into my evader and a 13 x 3 in my evader. its nice and speedy. geared with a 81 x 25 good on the street and even better in the dirt... wonder what 12 cells would do on a 13 turn motor. Anyone wanna try it and tell me the awnser?

[jon o]

well, it would run for a second, then a nice bit of smoke would puff up and you would have a brand new fried up esc.:D

[Matt (aka R/C)]

Just fooling with my Evader lately and since everyone's so intrested on the pinion, mine has a 20 tooth.


Matt

[Prinler]

I was looking to hop up the evader with some of the Graphite xxt parts.. Can someone list the main parts that should be purchased?
a arms? shock towers?

[pudder]

Front a arms, rear a arms, shock towers. That is all I can think of that people were upgrading.

[jdm3849]

Prinler, Your running 25/81 gearing?? Thats not good, if you gear down you will get better speed and runtime because it won't be overgeared. 16/88 is good for a 13 turn.


BTW, I just snapped another chassis tonight by landing upside down on my back shock tower which bent it back and forced my chassi to flex with it which is why it snapped. kinda hard to explain. Oh well, it was one of the old chassis anyways. Here comes my FT T3.

[kitty]

Oops. Just noticed the time! A belated Happy Thanksgiving to you all!

grewst - I had to re-read what you wrote a few times to be sure I had things correct. Not your fault; I had to be sure I had it pictured correctly in my mind. I'll have to flip my diff around before taking it out again (keeping the screw, nut and t-nut facing the same way as you mentioned). Thanks!

By diff nut, you do mean the locknut in the outdrive, correct? Weird that you've broken one, much less more. I figured the screw would break first. As long as the one you are looking at is 3mm, I don't foresee a problem other than it maybe having different threads (but I doubt that). HGI seems to make some pretty darned tough parts. Please give an update if you go that route :)

Prinler - if you go with the XXT arms, you'll have to drill the holes in the rear chassis plate and/or bulkhead, and the stock parts that connect to the outer pins to accept the slightly larger hinge pins. I have a list somewhere around here from someone who converted the rear of his Evader to use graphite XXT arms and CVD kit. I thought about doing that, but the total cost of parts alone was enough to make me forget it and just deal with the occasional broken suspension arm.

[TeamMishap]

My bro-in-law just got and crashed an Evader. I've never seen such carnage. Broke the front bumper, shock tower, bulkhead, front brace, tore up a shock, and his servo saver. It was so terrible, I just couldn't stop laughing.

His front brace was thick. Mine is thin with one big hole on the back side (looking down on it installed in the truck), his looked twice as thick with three holes where mine only had one. Is the one he has the new and improved one?

[grewst]

AAWW,, and you didn't post a pic??? he must have hit something really hard..

[kitty]

Mishap, if his is new, it should have the newer top brace with the "X" pattern and wider surface area.

Maybe his truck should have come with a warning label that says "Warning! This vehicle is not meant to be run full-speed into solid objects." :D

[pudder]

The other day I drove one of my trucks off of a real trucks hood, it did a nose plant into clay ground, and pounced back a foot. :D It wasn't my Evader though. :)

[k_sw31]

Smooth :cool: THough maybe not so smart. ;)

[TeamMishap]

He has the new brace then. Tower is still shipping the old ones. Hopefully when I send my busted one in DTX will send me the new and improved one.

He said he was chasing his dog and curbed his truck bad. It was rather funny. I'll have to tell him to use the Tower gift certificate I'm giving him for aluminum stuff. If you guys want to buy me aluminum stuff or the cheap 3000mAh battery two pack, you can visit my wishlist at ...

[pudder]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Smooth :cool: THough maybe not so smart. ;)

Ya, it was with my Pede though so I don't have to worry about breaking really.

[k_sw31]

Cept for the tranny :p

[pudder]

Nope, transmissions are good.

[jdm3849]

When there was a 10x1 P-94 in my stampede the tranny did'nt fare so well. LOL. When I had a 17x1 SG in it the tranny worked OK for most of the time. But the motor did manage to strip 1 gear.
Otherwise they are pretty durable.

[k_sw31]

Hmmmmm, in my rustler, I had all osrts of problems with my tranny :( THe again it wa smy first truck so i probably didnt keep it in the best of condition ;)

[GA Maxx]

right, im new to this forum, but not new to r/c, i have just finished, my pro 3 project which has all hop ups and all decent electrics.
Anyway, i would first of all like to say hi to everyone here

Are there any UK owners of this if so, where di you get yours?

The thing that attracted me to Duratrax is what you get for the money, or bang for the buck,. These trucks have everything and are cheap. This is also causing me concern. Why are the yso cheap, is something wrong or are they just real good value?
A truck with this sort of spec is nearly double without elecs, granted the elecs are nt teh greatest, but they certainjly arent the worst. So are they good or are thy really cheap for a reason. All 21 online reviews i have read dont thinks so, what do you think?

Im thinking of getting a Durtrax evader ST soon, for bashing around and jumping. Im used to racing with a low turn motor, so im thinking of putting a 10 turn motor in straight away. My question is:
Will the Drivetrain handle this? It seems specced out to me so i think it will but has anyone tried it?

What gearing do you recomend for a 10, or is a 10 too low to be geared correctly??

Im going to be running 3300 batteries in it, and a no limit esc too.

Are they durable. I know that there is a stress tech policy, does anyone know if i can send it to a distributor in the uk or do i have to ship it to the states?

My next question is are any hop ups essential? i mtrying to stay away from eye candy as ive spent $3,000 on a purple pro3 lo, but are any essential? im looking at backyard bashing jumping etc, so i think this car wil lfit my bill.

This will sound liek a newbie liek question, biut if i do put a 10 turn in it what sort of MPH will i be looking at?

Has anyone any pics of their ST???

Have any of you evader owners got msn?

Do some XXT Parts fit the evader?

im sorry if all this has been answered but i dont want to wade through 70 odd pages lol :)

thanks in advance, i cant wait to get my ST:D

[grewst]

Wade thru the 70 pages of this tread,,, most of your questions will be answered,,, I wouldn't stuff a 10T under the lid but thats just my opinion,, If you do plan to bash it, or race it regularly, I would recommend TI hinge pins and turnbuckles,, as well as beefing up the front end.

Grewst

[GA Maxx]

ok then ill read throug hit all:)

so am i better off wih an 11 or 12,

[GA Maxx]

hmm started reading inm onthe 7th page. lol

Pudder seems a real helpful guy

Im not too sure on the parts availability in the uk, and the uk is cold, so im getting worried about its durability

if its available in the uk i will have no doubt. i will harden the front suspension too. what springs fit? do Associated springs fit?

im gonna tighten up the balla diff and probabley sort out the servo maybre a 625mg:D

ive got top elecs already for it, so i could race this.

I think im going to make an order from tower of the aluminium bulkhead and some other titanium to beef it all along with stronger springs, but been in uk, this wil ltake time and money but im prepared to pay it

ive made a few emails regarding parts avaialablility in the uk

whats the aluminium bulkhead like?

any news on a stronger bulkhead has standard?

thanks

[pudder]

I like the stock springs. They are basicly like a green associated spring, medium tension. The shocks are Losi style, bottom loading and will take losi springs.

[GA Maxx]

im trying to avaoid breakage so want it as strong as possible and read i should stiffen it up

im going to be jumping this off around 4 foot jumps landing on a hard, so is stiffest susp the answer?

as im jumping what parts are prone to breakage? Evaders arent as cheap as yours around $250 in uk compared to the $169 on tower but im willign to pay

so far my lists is

no limit esc and a 12 turn
stiffer springs

im looking at hop ups too

I can get spares in teh uk too so its judt a matter of deciding what colour:)

Ah another question, can it handle a 12 turn? ]
thanks

[p.n.e]

X-treme Pro 3, welcome to the boards. Can't you get tower to ship it to the UK? 250 bux is pretty expensive. i only paid about 250 canadian for mines.

if you get a new evader you shouldnt have a problem with durability. there is a 1 year stress tech warantee on the plastic parts.

As for the tranny, i've run a 9 turn on mines for awhile and the tranny showed a 'tiny' bit of wear. Brushless has been tried in an evader and it seems like the tranny held up quite well. other things you can think about getting are different weights of shock oil to adjust for jumping. I havent heard of anyone getting the aluminum bulkhead yet, it is a bit overkill IMO.

Dan told me to gear my 9 turn at 15 tooth pinion, so i would gear a 12 turn similarly, maybe a 16 tooth?

As for color, we all know the blue ones are faster ;) :D :p

[pudder]

pne-where in Canada do you live anyways?

[Prinler]

Pro 3, Go to ebay. you will find alot of people selling NEW evaders for cheep... just ask if they will ship to the UK. i bet they will if you give them enuff money :) Anyway. I put some jepRC alum. Bulk head braces on my evader. That eliminated the bulkhead problem all togeather. Also poped in there a 13x2 geared at 81x25 works great. I have no problems with the trani. I would say YES to the 10 turn. prolly gear it a 21-23 tooth pinion. Replacing the rear tires are a must. They are POS and never buy the EVST replacment rims. They are POS rims. I have cracked mine in half.

Oh this truck is like a xxt. some parts will fit. XXT graphite A arms, shock towers ect... get those .. they will help to. I cant seem to find them anywhere for the life of me.
Goodluck

[GA Maxx]

lo ltower do ship to the uk but

1. Shipping is around $60
2. Mr Blair decides that we should be taxed on entry to the uk, and it will work out about $15 cheaper and ill have to wait around a month lol so its not worth it

the Durtrax evader is still laods cheaper than staduim trucks

The T3 team is around $300 with no elecs

I only get stuff i na big order or parts that areent available in the UK, so with my pro 3 i got loads from abroad:)

il lprobabley get around $400 once i have got the evader and buy some hop ups/spares as wel las soem parts for my other rc cars

this means i save on tax etc

il lgo for the 10 turn then:D

thanks so much your al lgreat helps

[grewst]

I have the aluminum bulkhead on my evader right now,,, I am still debating wheather I like it or not,,, when I jump the front end wants to sink, alot more then it ever did,, then again with that little bit of extra weight in the front,, the steering has become even more aggressive,, then it was (If they ever make graphite Suspension arms,, it would just about even the weight out again)

I put a 10T D3 into my truck,, and stripped 2 idler gears, and wore down the diff gear really good,, before I went back to the photon motor.

If your jumping I would recommend TI hinge pins or at least the inner rear hinge pins,, I have gone thru 4 sets of pins just to replace those

I beat my truck up all the time its my basher truck,, early on I was very upset with it,, but lately after having rebuilt the whole truck(adding some choice upgrades) it seems almost bulletproof,,, (some of you on this thread thought you'd never hear that from me, did you:D ),, lately I have done some insane crazy stuff to my Evader that should have put it in the trash can(wish I had a video cam)

Grewst

[GA Maxx]

well i think ill stick with a 12 turn motor lol

what upgrade parts ahve you got to make it bulelt proof?

[p.n.e]

X-treme Pro 3

if you get a 10 turn dont gear it with a 21-23 tooth. that is far too overgeared with the stock spur 88. i ran my 9 turn with a 20 tooth and it was way to overgeared. 30 seconds of running and the batts and motor were too warm. you want a 15 or 16 tooth.

If you do decide to get an aluminum bulkhead, try roughing it with the stock for awhile first. even if the bulkhead breaks its covered for free.

pudder-edmonton alberta

[GA Maxx]

stress tech doesnt apply to me im in uk, and i have to send part to states and then get it back so id just buy it

wow you guys are over gears, for a 9 im think of a 14/87

[jon o]

Hey- i just started rc in sept. i got an evader st. I want to race it on road. What should i do?? i am getting new tires from tower hobbies, but i dont know what kind of rims,tires,glue,foam inserts, etc. i was also thinking of getting the rpm XXT bumper for my car for extra protection. I think that they should make an aluminum hop up body for the evader st. What do you think i should do???:)

What can i do to my car to upgrade its speed and turning? I have only $160 to spend. Thanks!
-Jon
:cool:

[jon o]

Hey- i just started rc in sept. i got an evader st. I want to race it on road. What should i do?? i am getting new tires from tower hobbies, but i dont know what kind of rims,tires,glue,foam inserts, etc. i was also thinking of getting the rpm XXT bumper for my car for extra protection. I think that they should make an aluminum hop up body for the evader st. What do you think i should do???:)

What can i do to my car to upgrade its speed and turning? I have only $160 to spend. Thanks!
-Jon
:cool:

[jon o]

Hey- i just started rc in sept. i got an evader st. I want to race it on road. What should i do?? i am getting new tires from tower hobbies, but i dont know what kind of rims,tires,glue,foam inserts, etc. i was also thinking of getting the rpm XXT bumper for my car for extra protection. I think that they should make an aluminum hop up body for the evader st. What do you think i should do???:)

What can i do to my car to upgrade its speed and turning? I have only $160 to spend. Thanks!
-Jon
:cool:

[GA Maxx]

Originally posted by jon o
Hey- i just started rc in sept. i got an evader st. I want to race it on road. What should i do?? i am getting new tires from tower hobbies, but i dont know what kind of rims,tires,glue,foam inserts, etc. i was also thinking of getting the rpm XXT bumper for my car for extra protection. I think that they should make an aluminum hop up body for the evader st. What do you think i should do???:)

What can i do to my car to upgrade its speed and turning? I have only $160 to spend. Thanks!
-Jon
:cool:

Speed: new motor and a new ESC

turning: better servo and bellcrank adjustments

[grewst]

If your going to run your evader on road,, start with street tires, drop your ride hieght,, use thicker shock oil,, use stiffer springs,,, adjust your turnbuckles so they are shorter(causing less body roll),,you could use swaybars, at least in the rear,,, and if your still rolling the truck in the corners,,, try slowing down..

An aluminum body?? Now that would weight a ton.:(

Grewst

[p.n.e]

Originally posted by jon o
i was also thinking of getting the rpm XXT bumper for my car for extra protection. I think that they should make an aluminum hop up body for the evader st. What do you think i should do???:)


you will notice a big diff with road tires, how bout road hawgs? Also, read the instruction manual on the part about shock mounting locations as this will help quite a bit. I've never heard of an aluminum body, it'd have to be superthin to be light enuff, or super thick to withstand any crashes. why not wrap your body in aluminum foil if you want it so bad? :D ;)

[pudder]

Possibly reffering to an aluminum chassis.

[grewst]

An aluminum rear chassis plate would be nice,,, to help with the chassis flex,, It will never happen tho,,,, because of the design of the rear chassis with the suspension arm holders incorperated into the chassis,, it would not be cost affective

[k_sw31]

Now if duratrax would come out with a new evader, where it would be designed to have metal chassis plates in the front and rear liek the T3, and if they re-vamped the plastics a little bet, beefed them up, and if it was still about the same price, I would get an evader :) ;) :p

[TeamMishap]

Saw this on E-bay. Dude CNCs his own aluminum Evader parts. They look pretty cool. Wish I had the dough to bid on the set. I don't know if he is amenable to making individual pieces, but he was friendly enough in email.

If referring to auctions in this thread is verboten, I apologize, please let me know and I'll delete the link from my post. I thought you folks would enjoy this fellow Evader driver's creativity.

http://**************/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewItem&item=1923027500

[TeamMishap]

[pudder]

Nice Double Post!

I like that, though I wish it was blue. Those front suspension arms look easy to bend though, just my thoughts.

[TeamMishap]

I tried to delete one of them but it wouldn't let me. I didn't think the first one UL'd.

I could give a toot about the battery strap, I like the A-arms and the front brace. I like blue better too.

[pudder]

Blue is faster.

[k_sw31]

heh, those look pretty neat, now if he only anodized them in SCREAMING YELLOW oh, lol, the front a-arms do look somewhat flimsy, but hey, better than stock :p Hmmmmmm, if only I could get a CNC machine for christmas :) :D

[grewst]

Now if someone would do that in graphite,,,, I want the top plate and servo brace,,but in blue

[k_sw31]

Ha! Most people want 2 colors, black and blue, but not me! I'm more sophisticated than that!!!! I want neon yallow, black and blue!!!!!!!!! HAHAHAHHAHA!!!!!!!!! :p oh:p :p :p :p ;)

[enemy_spike]

yah well i would anodize it RED!!!!! Heeeeeeeey could you anodize red flames on black? (I dont know anything about anodizing so dont make fun of me)

[enemy_spike]

what parts from other vehicles will fit on the evader

[k_sw31]

I dont think you could anodize flames, but maybe you could do like a fade from red to black. I think its liek a coating process, like whn you chrome somehting, so it would be hard to do designs i'd imagine. I dont have a clue how to do it though.

Hmmm, new thread in GD coming on.

[pudder]

Something to do with acid, batteries, and some other stuff. I read something on it once but forgot it all now.

[k_sw31]

Ya, I just read some stuff about it. You need to get some sulfuric acid, a power supply, and a bunch of other stuff. It sounds like its basically the process that gets Aluminum oxide to form, and you can manipulate its color and it make the aluminum much more stronger. Hmmmmm, maybe I could do it as extra credit for science :p Like I should be trusted with sulferic acid!!!! :p j/k

[GA Maxx]

purple is better than blue see www.x-tremepro3.cjb.net

purple is faster than blue:)

[GA Maxx]

ive done andonizing a i made a silver coin red

[k_sw31]

NO, purple is only fast on HPI cars :p ;)

[pudder]

Ya, I agree, blue and HPI just dont mix.

[p.n.e]

well i got the webcam working and took some shots of the evader. here's a link
http://www.angelfire.com/ne2/pneboy/evader.html

shown is my evader with snow chains and recently made aluminum snow paddles, my custom leds, blue shock covers, and my cheapo 1800 pack held together with duct tape, and my melted 2400 pack i reconstructed, and my speed gems pro 9 turn. :p

sorry about the quality, its an old webcam i got for free for signing up for dsl and its my first time taking pics w/ it ;) :o

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by pudder
Ya, I agree, blue and HPI just dont mix.

TOo true :p

[GA Maxx]

now ive done my pro3 in purple see my site www.x-tremepro3.cjb.net

im bored of purple so im getting blu

[pudder]

xtreme pro 3- It would be best if you gave a link to the actual page instead of your homepage since lots of times I am lazy and don't feel like looking down a page.

You should also change web hosts, Angelfire really isn't good.

[GA Maxx]

lol ive got free webspace just waiting to be used, istarted writing a site but im doing exasm so it wont be finished till after xmas

il lfind a page with pics

[TeamMishap]

Forget who was asking about improvements and time losses with increased cells in a pack. Here's some info I found in RCCA Dec 02.

4 cells 5v 110.2 watts out 166.6 torque 28096 rpm
5 cells 6.25 162.4 watts 200.7 torque 34633 rpm
6 cells 7.5 227 watts 235.7 tq 43113 rpm

Using Team Orion 10