Duratrax Evader ST Forum v2.0

[pudder]

How many amps would you charge a pack like this at?

[k_sw31]

The amp rate depends on the size of the cell, not the capacity or # of cells i'm pretty sure :cool:

Another way to build 8 cell battery packs and use the existing battery strap, is if you follow these (http://www.traxxas.com/support/howto/trx_trouble_build7cell_2.htm) instructions, and just add a cell on the other side you'll have 8 cells that will no only work with your battery strap but will also balance the chassis out, instead of having 2 cells on one side :)

[pudder]

I decided to do a review on the Evader ST a few days ago. If you want to see it:

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/Evader.htm

[TeamMishap]

That was a good article on the seventh cell, don't think it'd work for eight though. My way is by no means the best, just my first foray into building a pack.

Charge amperage is based on the mAh of the pack. Charging rule of thumb is generally double to 2.5x the mAh rating of the cells. 2000mAh cells = 4-6 amp charge.

[k_sw31]

Actually, it does work with 8 cells that way, I've tried it, and its really easy too :) :cool:

Actually, I'm sure that you charge depending on the size (mass) of the cell. For example. I have 1500 mah AA's for my micros, I charge those at 1.5 amps, If I charge them at any higher they get extremely hot, where I have 1500 mah sub c cells, and I charge them at 4.5 amps, which is about perfect.

Another example, is if you have 3300 cells, you should charge them at about 5.5-6 amps (thats the Ideal anyways) because 3300's are slightly bigger bigger than 2400's, which you'd want to charge at around 5 amps :)

[pudder]

Sounds good. I just ran a 10 cell pack in my Stampede, WOW power like you wouldn't believe it, with the Stock Stinger motor too! :D You guys should try as many cells as your ESC can handle, it is so much fun!

[k_sw31]

Hmmmm, My super rooster can handle 10 cells.......... :) :D :p

[p.n.e]

is there any way to get a non adjustable charger to charge at a higher rate? mines can only handle 7 cells max so it would charge a 10 cell pack at around 1 or 2 amps :mad:

[k_sw31]

no, you'd want it to charge the pack at around 4 amps, or a bit more :)

[p.n.e]

well..with a 5 cell pack it charges at 5 amps and gets the charger way too hot, at 6 cells its 3 amps, and at 7 cells which i put togeher today, it is half an amp :mad: :mad: 10 cells would be more like 1/8th of an amp

[k_sw31]

Your charger is veeeeeeeeeerrrrrrrry retarded ;) I keep telling you peoples, amp rate depends on size of the cell, not the capacity or # of cells :mad:

[p.n.e]

yea it is retarded, those numbers are right off the meter on it. :(

[k_sw31]

You should get a mrc super brain charger. They are a great deal for the money because they are good peak chargers and have adjustable amp rates.

The only thing you need to do with these chargers is place them over a room fan while charging because these chargers lack a cooling system except for some vents. Because of this the false peak a lot. Placing them on a room fan to keep them cool is a very simple, yet effective way to remedy this. :)

[p.n.e]

yea that was the charger i was looking but unlucky me the hobby store has 3 chargers, a hobbico 15 min charger, duratrax 15 min charger, and duratrax 15 min charger with meter. so i bought the best one they had

[joshb]

Hi Guys,

I'm thinking of racing my Evader ST. Can anyone recommend some good hop-ups for it? I have the standard RTR car and would really like to do some cool mods.

Any suggestions would be great :)

Thanks,

Josh.
:)

[pudder]

For racing, all I would reccomend for you to buy is tires suitable for the track you will be racing on. The stock tires are very soft, and the rear tires become slicks pretty quick on anything. Also, you may want to buy a different motor. Since it sounds like you are just starting out, a good racing stock motor such as the Trinity lineup, and Reedy MVP are some good choices.

BTW: if you are planning on getting a stock or different motor, you may want to buy a selection of pinion gears so you can suitably gear it.

[p.n.e]

have any of you visted novaks site lately? they have some info on their new brushless system and its rated at 6,400 RPM/Volt!!:eek:

[CHEVYMAN07]

How much flex does the chassis have. Would I notice on the track? And which would be good for racing and bashing. THe evader prebuilt or the team built te3 for 130? And can I switch the stock chassis with another, say the t3 or the xx-t? Thanks for your replys.:)

[k_sw31]

I would say the T3 would be much better for racing and bashing :) I would take my T3 over my friends evader any day, and he would do the same, the T3 is good for most applications, I have had good luck bashingmine! :)

[pudder]

Chevyman07- The T3 is better for racing since parts are almost always readily available at most tracks. With the Evader, it is not great for mod motors either since it has quite a bit of flex, and the gearbox isn't extremely durable. It is a good truck though.

[k_sw31]

One other thing about the t3-
Its tranny has absoloutly no problems handling super hot mod motors :)

[pudder]

I think AE has the best gearboxes.

[k_sw31]

Too true :D

Luckily I have a couple of spare stealth trannies laying around! ;) :p

[grewst]

There's no way to even compare a T3 to an evader,, The T3 wins hands downon all aspects. On the other hand the evader is a great basher (I have a 15T SG in it now, its fast enough). I think the evader could race stock or spec(19T) classes with some success.

[pudder]

For stock racing it is fine. I raced my Evader last winter on a carpet track, handled great.

[grewst]

I agree,, it handles great with a stock motor,, I have just had really really bad luck with the truck anytime I have put a hot modified motor in it,, so I set my trucks limit at 15T,, and it still gives me troubles from time to time(even with all the hop ups)

Hey guys get this(from someone that was about ready to smash the truck with a sledge hammer. ),, after my rebuild,, getting rid of all the old plastics I liked the way it has held up that I am getting another one for my son's B-day.

let's see if his new stock version has anything for my old highly modified version. lol,, well see.:rolleyes:

Grewst

[cburk]

I don't know how durable your Evaders are but from what I have seen it is pretty pathetic. Last weds at our track a guy was running an evader and tried to make one of the large double jumps. His truck wasn't quite fast enough and he landed with the middle of the chassis on the top of the second jump and freakin broke his truck in half, lol:D It was a sickening sound! Anyways at least he was cool about it and didn't get too upset. So far the only evaders I have seen were raced in our novice class. All the stock guys are running Losi's with a couple people running Associateds. If you want to check out our track www.planetrcraceway.com

Later,
Cburk:D

[TRF Drive Hard]

Hey guys... eek:eek: this is the first time i ever been to this thread/forum... im not much of an off roader... hense my screen name... but its winter now and i was thinkin of getting the Evader ST... i wanna jump through snow and all that yadda yadda... but i wanna keep it "street" any suggestions for tire and wheel set up?:cool:

ted

[kitty]

cburk, I bet the guy who broke his chassis was racing an Evader with the older style of chassis. Amazingly, I have yet to break mine (original parts run, even), but I'm okay if it does. I've been jumping mine a lot lately so it's only a matter of time. That's okay, though, because I have two spares (one original, one newer style).

Which of you guys run a Peak Jaguar 17x2 in your Evader? I can't remember. Anyway, about capacitors - the Peak site has piddly squat as for information on their motors and the package mine came in was devoid of any information either. I noticed that mine has one capacitor soldered between the + and - tabs on the motor, but no others. Do these motors have SMD caps under the endbell like Trinity motors do? The reason I ask is because I broke in the brushes on mine, but my truck does not go any faster than it does with the GM3 Pro in it. I was hoping for at least a slight difference so I'm wondering if I need a few more caps on the motor or something.

Now, for all you guys running more than six batteries - I think my Novak Rooster will handle up to 7 cells, but I have no idea about which motors will handle a 7-cell pack. I think the Trinity site says not to run over six cells with their motors, but now that I'm running this Jag 17x2, I'm game for trying it out, especially seeing that the motor does not seem to perform anywhere near my expectations.

As always, thanks in advance =)

[pudder]

Kitty, I wouldn't go more than 7 cell with a 17t motor, though I have known a few guys with 4x4 pedes runing double motors and with 8 cell packs. :eek:

Remember though, you will need to gear down for the xtra power.

Is the "capacitor" on your motor big, round and black with a silver line on it?


It took me bad landing the second time jumping 8 feet from a staircase on cement in -15 weather to break my chassis.

[guver]

Kitty' I use a peak jag 17x2 motor with a 7-cell --It only has the one cap that you mention, but I thought caps were only to reduce radio glitching (not for speed or power)

I'm not real pleased with the assembly on the motors (jag,rush) bolts loose, brushes seem to stick after 2 runs, comm was cut to .27" when new,ect. It is improved over the photon, but only cuz of the brgs. and removable end bell.

My capacitors break off all the time and I have no glitches. Can't say anything about your ESC, as I use stock ones.

[grewst]

Kitty,,
I thought the rooster could handle up to 10 cells???,, Is the capacitor one of those big huge ones??,, if so you should be ok,, check for sparking between the comm and brushes,,if there is alot of sparking add the extra capacitors.. That motor should be faster then the photon,, did you advance the timing???


BTW,, the last motor I accidentlly ran without capacitors,,, burned up with a nasty smell,,, lots of dark smoke,, melted wires,, deformed brush hoods,, and slightly melted endbell

[Prinler]

On a Stock Sprint ESC. ( i have 3) I put a 13 turnx2 SG and 12 cells. Zoom Zoom Zoom. I took it easy. Never cut out once. Not even that hot. Warm to the touch after 10 mins. the motor got just as warm as normal. Even when i tryed to blow it up.. it wouldnt.






Its only money you will get more :)

[pudder]

Well you are lucky. I have had nothing but bad luck with those things. Three of them have blown on me for no reason. :mad:

[p.n.e]

are you sure you werent dreaming? *regrets trading off esc*

[grewst]

My speedo and radio are the only things still left from the original truck.. The speedo only got hot once,, but it was my fault,, I had a motor way overgeared

[Prinler]

I have wired the esc backwards. Started Smookin like nuts. Still works like new. .

[Nemo]

Im taking mine apart to put in a new outdrive, but the pin thing in the way back of the shaft is very hard to get off. It is the thing you would take off last, after all of the screws. Does anyone know how to get this off, an easy way? I am just putting one of the littlehex screwdrivers it came with against it and hitting it with a hammer, it is very hard because is his covered in most places. Any help?

[pudder]

Needlenose pliers work too, when you cant do it thay way, try pushing it out with a hex driver or something.

[kitty]

pudder - the cap that's showing on the motor is the standard 1uf or whatever, not a shott.

Well, well, well. Last night my chassis finally broke. It took some major abuse to do it, but I managed hehe I had just done a funky landing off the jump and my truck cartwheeled about seven times, but landed on all fours. The next jump, it landed just flat, but when it hit the grass, it took a tumble. Baby bro and I looked at each other at the same time with the same curious look on our faces. Something looked kinda strange when my truck tumbled after hitting the grass. The reason was because the rear end had separated and the only thing holding the truck together were wires and zip ties. I laughed quite a bit, considering how much abuse it took for me to break the original chassis. No biggie, as like I mentioned in a previous post, I have two replacement chasses and it's time to do a full cleaning anyway.

I did get a little better performance out of the 17x2 Jaguar, but then I was using a 7-cell pack. Overall, it ran about the same speed as my GM3 Pro does with a 6-cell pack. I just don't get it. The motor is fully broken in now and I'm using the same 18t pinion as I was with the GM3. It just doesn't make sense to me how a 17x2 runs slower than a 27-turn stocker. Thoughts/suggestions, anyone?

grewst - as mentioned, just using the one little capacitor that came soldered on the motor. I forget which way to turn the endbell to change the timing. I may toy around with that some time this week. I feel a need to re-solder the leads anyway, as I goofed up the Dean's using an 80w iron. I do much better work with a 30-watter when it comes to Dean's plugs. I fixed the plug pretty well, but I misjudged on the positive wire length (I like to keep 'em short) and had to bend the negative lead over and it blocks one of the endbell screws. No biggie. A few seconds with an iron and it'll be off again. I actually like to solder. Go fig.

As for sparking, I get very little spark even at full throttle. The springs on the Jag motor are very stiff and I use comm drops.

Prinler - I have to say that you have some serious brass ones to put a hot mod motor on the stock ESC! Pretty funny stuff heh

To all - as much fun as I've had with my Evader, I've come to the conclusion that I'd rather have a MT. So after I put my truck back together with a new chassis and freshly cleaned parts, I'm seriously thinking about putting it up for sale. I'll be keeping my Rooster and GM3, put the stock ESC back in and include the Photon and Jag motors as well as a big box of replacement parts (I tend to buy at least one new part while waiting for replacements from Hobby Services). Baby bro suggested asking $150 because it'll include a huge array of extras, including a new set of RPM Monster Clawz with Pro-Line street tires that have seen pavement for a total of maybe three minutes. What do you guys think I should ask for it? If any of you guys are interested, please PM me because I'd rather sell it to one of you guys if possible. It's just one of those "community" things to me.

You guys take care =)

[pudder]

1.5 million Canadian since about 150 American dollars are worth that right now.

kitty-what MT are you thinking of getting?

Still, stick around here and talk if you do sell it. :)

[p.n.e]

:p cmon pudder, our moneys not THAT worthless..;)

kitty, something is wrong with that jag, it should give pretty impressive speed especially with a 7 cell pack. maybe you got a bad apple?


try running in advance timing. see the double tick on the endbell? it should be aligned with 0 degrees right now(which is marked on the can with the sticker). loosen the end bell screws a tiny bit and with the pinion side faceing you rotate the endbell using the double tick as the indicator. rotate it to the right (ccw) and set it somewhere around 15. then tighten and try it out. don't go over 20 or below 0. btw, the recommended number of caps for a motor is 3, shott's are only used with forward only esc's.

I'm guessing your looking at a stampede? maybe you could trade it. one guy offered to trade an older emaxx for my evader. like pudder said, you better stick around :rolleyes:

[ronbeck]

have you used the comm drops everytime??
that maybe the slow down. in rcca a few months ago
read that camm drops are for smothing out warn coms.
and if used on new, or fresh cut comms could slow it down.
like asphalt sealer it fills in the vallies to make it smooth.
:)

[Prinler]

I will admit im a complainer.... I bitch alot abotu everything. And one thing i say is its not fast enough. Its never "FAST" enough. And what i have come to find out is that a GOOD stock motor can some times be faster then a mod motor. I mean seriously your finding this out the hard way. a P2K tweeked right could prolly put out enough power to pust it faster then your 17x2. or even a 15. If you want to see this thing go. try 13 or lower. then you see a difference. Even with a 13 turn and 12 cells its slow. ( for me ) i run a rs4 Pro 2. 12x3 and its a d3.5 so its really fast. i get somewhere around 35-40 MPH out of it. When i need my fixx i get it there. When i need to smash things i get out my maxx. I have found that having one of each help :) Anyone else agree?
Sorry to ramble on.
Stevep

[pudder]

Kitty, If you are getting a Stampede, great choice. :) I love my pede :D

[trxstr1961]

Anyone in here want a evader??will let it go for 150. ran a total of 3 times, jusat dont like the way it keep breaking...

[TeamMishap]

Think I'll sell mine too. I'm really wanting an E-maxx.

[ronbeck]

what diff do you have in your pede??
got a rustler with the planetary diff.
it's $50-60 to upgrade to one of there ball diff sets:confused:

[Prinler]

Sheeesh am in in the buy sell trade forum? spooky

[pudder]

Ya, I have the gear diff. As much as I like the ball diffs and the pede, it is just way too expensive, and it is only a beater truck to me.

[Dirt Dog R/C]

The evader st isnt tuff. I got one today and was jumping it just 4 feet in the air and it broke.

[jdm3849]

I've seen them break before they even hit the ground. JK, but in my expirience (have first shipment) the evader has been a really brittle truck. I have broken a total of about 25 pieces.

bulkhead 4-5
front brace 3
servo brace 2
front shock tower 2
front bumper 1
front a-arms 2
chassis 2
ballcups on shocks 2
rear plate thing 1
hub carrier 1
front body mount 4
wheels (lol) 2

there are a few other small things, the new ones are supposed to be alot tougher.

i have jumped mine more than 17 feet far w/o breaking, and I also have jumped 5 feet far and broken something. My car just seems to break on the simple stuff. With my Losi I have jumped about 12 feet high in the air over 5 of my friends standing up and got about 15 feet far with no breakage about 10 times. thats perrty tough.

[Nemo]

Okay heres a hard one for you. A couple weeks ago I went to my cousins cos he just got a t3 and i wanted to show him a thing or two. I had a 14T onyx, a new esc, and everything else was pretty much stock. So right before we were going to the park we decided to drive one battery run in the alley. Im going along and go off a small jump, almost nothing at all, and my rear shock tower gets broken. Man that sucked. So for like a minute or two i just rove it around for fun just a tiny bit. Im going along, proll at 15 mph in a driveway and it like hit a crack or something, Im not sure really what, must have been something metal hidden from grass that was sticking out between the cracks of two cement things. And then i look at it and the real output shaft is broken in 2! It was cold out, so taht could have done something, but it just broke in two for no reason really, and its metal its not like its plastic. So then it sat on the shelf a while cos 2 days later my pede came in the mail. After switching the esc and motor to that I played with it for a week, then ordered the parts i needed for my evader. So they came in the mail and i was taking apart the tranny. This was tonight, and was my first time taking apart its tranny, i took apart the stampedes a couple days ago but still didnt know much about this. So when I opened it a bunch of the ball bearins shot out everywhere. Man it sucked, so i found all except one. I decided just to oil everything up and hope it would work. So i put everything back together and put in a motor, a reedy handout 20T and a futba Mc230 esc that came with the pede. And now it makes a really loud screaming noise, and wont go as fast as normal. Could this all have been from that one ball bearing? The worst part is right after i put everything back together i found it. Made me so mad. Well anyway I dont like the tranny for it it doesnt seem to handle mod motors well. But I wouldnt really know anyways Ive only had the two trucks. Im lookin to sell it and get a t3 or a xxxt, probably a t3 though. How much should i charge? its got pretty much no scratches. The tires on the back are basically slicks though. But after christmas it will probably have an aluminum bulkhead and hing pin =( I made my list too early before i knew i wanted to sell it or trade with money for a t3 or xxxt. oh well

[kitty]

pudder - I'm considering a number of different trucks, mostly Traxxas models - the Traxxas Stampede or Maxx, debating between electric and nitro right now) or possibly a Savage, though I'm leaning a lot towards a Traxxas. For electrics, the only thing I don't like about the E-Maxx is the danged controller. The total Tx wheel turn for a full turn on the truck is only about 1/16. That's a bit too tight for my taste. Plus, I can shift into second gear okay on the E-Maxx, but downshifting is a no-go unless I use my right hand. Just something about the button placement. We bash a bit at night, so I wouldn't be able to use a nitro due to the noise. Decisions, decisions. The Pede is looking better all the time.

No worries about me bailing on this forum. Some of you guys have become sorta friends of mine and I'll always have a certain fondness for the Evader. Plus, if I can't get as much as I'd like to for the Evader, I'll just keep it for offroad only or possibly do a short-chassis mod like one of you guys did (sorry, it's 2:25am and I can't remember which one of you did that).

Oh yeah, and there's nothing wrong with Canada...other than stupid politicians, but hey, we have our fair share of those too. I'm sure we'd be willing to trade Al Gore for that snob who thinks Canadians are so superior :D

Jon - hmm. The only sticker on my Jag is the label itself - no timing mark there. There is a notch in the can where the two tic marks are, but the two tic marks are like 1/4" apart. I have to disassemble everything to change the chassis anyway. Right now the rear end is all one piece by itself heh

Steve - The only time I've used comm drops is prior to break-in and every once in a while after a thorough cleaning.

Prinler - no kidding, bro. Looks like I started something heh At least I'm trying to sell mine with a boatload of extras ;)

Dirt Dog R/C - when you were jumping your truck, what were you jumping off of and on to? Just about any stadium truck is going to break something if you land wrong. My chassis (an original brittle one, even) only broke because I came off a jump wrong and it did like seven cartwheels. I'm surprised nothing else broke because I hit the jump at full speed. It's not always the truck's fault.

Nemo - where on the rear shock tower did it break? If you don't have the shocks tightened just right, the screw holes can enlarge pretty fast and it doesn't take that much stress to break the top off when it's like that. I've put my poor little truck through heck and back and it still has the original rear shock tower. I changed the front a while back, not because it was broken, but because I had a new one and just decided it was the thing to do at the time.

What do you mean by the "real output shaft?" And that noise you are hearing is because your diff gear is a Hitler (missing one ball). Okay, old joke there. Annnnnyway... What type of oil did you put in the tranny when you put it back together? I've learned from the pros around here that it's best to use silicone diff lube on the diff balls and good ol' HPI black grease on the thrust bearings. If you used too light of an oil, and ran it with a ball missing, I'd bet you trashed the diff gear.

It's not that much work to take the gear box apart again to put the missing ball back in, though I recommend you get a rebuild kit because you'll probably need one.

[Matt (aka R/C)]

IM bored.... ANyways, how many Canadians are here? IT seems like most of us are? I think ill go charge my batteries.


Matt

[Nemo]

Sorry, I mean rear output shaft, the one on the right. It was late when i wrote that. And yes the shock tower did break on the top, where it was connected to the shock, so that was probably it. I hope it isnt broken. All i drove it for was inside the living room a tiny bit to see if it worked. Yeah I suppose its not too much work, that was just my first time and you have to do a bunch of things just takes a while i guess, it will prolly be faster now that i know how to do it better. Thanks for the advice

[guver]

Kitty

I had that trouble with the jag and rush motors (17t,15t13t)
They would run fast for 3 runs, and then go very slow. Every time I cleaned the brushes and comm they would run fast again (like new) I finally got tired of that and put in some cheap race prep brushes and can get over 10-12 runs no problem.

Hope that will help--Oh also the connectors wont last either. Have to solder ones on.

[pudder]

To all the above statements, I have no ******* clue to what is going on here.

To the person with the loud Evader: Did you reset your gear mesh when changing the motors, you probably have it too tight, if you need more explanation on gear mesh, just ask me or the others in here.



Have any of you blown out your Evader shocks? I put mine on my Pede, and today doing some jumping, the whole bottom plastic piece blew out of the shock, the threads stripped, but I will just fix that with some plumbers tape.


Kitty-get the pede, it is a super fun truck to drive around with. I have yet to break something on it besides a servo. If you are to get one, get a metal gear servo, also some bearings with the RPM carriers. With those two things on the pede, it should be good to go forever.

Also, with the pede, instead of getting rid of the old tires, you can modify them for better performance in this article: http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/pmm2k.htm

[p.n.e]

kitty, thats odd...im going to take some pics of my endbell so you can see what i'm talking about

here is a picture of the photon speed motor's endbell. (too lazy to unscrew the speedgems) the double tick is the indicator, there is two double ticks on the endbell. on the can there should be a groove to indicate 0 degree's.




http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL99/807146/1455836/17010702.jpg

[jdm3849]

Pudder, those are the shock bushings and i have not popped one. But I do have spares just in case because they were garunteed anyways. I got 17t Amber speed gem pro motor today at my LHS. I set it to 20 degrees already but i need some motor leads still. I was not planning on getting this motor so I did'nt think about getting a pinion. I have a 15 tooth pinion lying around and I have a 85 tooth spur. Will that combo work good for temperary use? what size pinion should i get the next time I go to the store? Will my truck go pretty fast with 15/85 and a 7 cell? What runtime do you guys think I will get with the 7 cell sanyo 1700 and 15/85?


thanks

-Mike

[p.n.e]

it will go super fast with a 7 cell. you will notice a drop in runtime tho if you are used to the stock motor.

pudder-thanks a lot =P i blew out a shock today, and in the process of changing the shock oil i think i messed them all up. they dont rebound like their supposed to...and the plastic caps are so darn hard to work with :mad:

[Matt (aka R/C)]

ok guys, i broke my first part today, the upper brace (i think thats what it is called, correct me if im wrong). I need to make sure. and also what is the part called where 2 screws attach to it(at the front)???? Thanks for your help! i got a pic of the damage!

Matt

[jdm3849]

That is a Front Brace for the EVST, part number: DTXC6612.

The part which holds the hing pins in front together is also called a front brace. They come with the bulkhead. (the thing behind the bumper) I got the blue aluminum one from tower and have yet to break a part in front.

[Matt (aka R/C)]

Thanks for your help! I think im going to do a short term fix with some epoxy glue and maybe make a little custom part to strenghthen it.

Matt

[jep_rc]

Matt - you have the older style front brace - the new one is beefier with a heavy cross brace. You shouldn't have trouble if you buy a new one. Here is a link to some photos of Evader repairs I have done. One of them has a piece of circuit board glued to the top of a broken front brace.....

breakage pics (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/miscphotos.html)


Jep
Jep-R/C Products (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc)

[TeamMishap]

[TeamMishap]

I just got my replacement front brace from DTX. They are still shipping the old model. I was hoping for the beefier version.

Here's my homemade battery label that I'm putting on my 8 cell packs. Tore up my old low capacity stick packs and the cells are bare metal.

[p.n.e]

i got some extra 1800 packs today and made a 10 cell pack. let me tell you, this thing rips!! i've only tried it on the photon without a load but the rpms are way up! i'll have to compare it to my sg 9 turn but it was jaw dropping. the packs were not fully charged too. :p

[kitty]

guver - I think I'll try some cheapie brushes on the Jag motor. I may put some weaker springs on it, too, as the stock ones are super stiff (way stiffer than a Trinity purple spring). Thanks!

pudder - I know you can't keep up with this whole thread all the time, so I'll brief you about the shock caps on the Evader. Their design team is taking a long look at a design I submitted to them. Geez, it's late and I can't remember who it was I was working with here to create the design. At any rate, it's his and my design and they are checking into it.

You mentioned RPM bearing carriers. I've seen those mentioned on a number of other threads about the E-Pede. What exactly are you/they referring to? Is it the hub carriers or do they call it by a different name? I wish they'd all stick to the same names for like parts. Sheesh!

Jon - I was talking about the endbell on the Peak Jaguar 17x2 motor, sweetie. :) What ESC are you using for experimenting around with huge battery packs? Ten cells? Dang! Have you started making wings for your truck? :D

Matt - what did you hit to break the top brace (aka front brace)? Ouchies! And yours was one of the newer ones, I think. From the picture you posted, the ribs/webs/whatever you wanna call em, are wider. I'm still using one of the original braces on mine, though I have a spare that's of the new design.

Jeff - you probably have pictures to compare, but the pic Matt posted looks like the newer brace. I'm wondering if there was an "interim" brace that had wider ribs, but not the x-pattern part?

[TeamMishap]

Congrat's. Jep's XXT made the Feb 03 issue of Xtreme RC

[jep_rc]

Thanks for the tip TM - I'll have to run out and grab an issue ASAP.

Jep

[p.n.e]

the endbell markings should be the same on every motor unless i'm mistaken. All of them are marked the same way. I'm using the super rooster. dont expect it to take off anytime soon tho, with 10 cells this thing is heavy!

[Matt (aka R/C)]

I was jumping around on my ditch(It has a really steep slope with a nice lip on it) and it started to do a backflip(I have never had this happen before)! It under rotated and landed about a 55 degree angle downwards. when it hit i just thought "oops hope i didnt break anything!". And it was during the first minute or so of my pack. So there i am running with a broken front brace for about 9 minutes with 1500mah pack (what runtime do you guys get with ????mah?). then i bring it in and its kinda hanging forwards a little, im like "O CRAP, not good!" And thats how it was. In think im gunna epoxy it together for now and epoxy a little brace on it to for a little extra durability.

Matt

[Matt (aka R/C)]

I'll post a pic of my "repair" tomorrow! Night Guys!

matt

[Andy_7676]

check out this thread guys, i know all you Evader guys out there are forced to use 3rd party parts for you evader....

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=107531


i'm trying to build a comprehensive online database for all of us to use....

long post but worth the read if you alway find yourself looking for parts that fit your evader that are made by other conpanies....

[jep_rc]

Originally posted by kitty
Jeff - you probably have pictures to compare, but the pic Matt posted looks like the newer brace. I'm wondering if there was an "interim" brace that had wider ribs, but not the x-pattern part?
Kitty - it is hard to tell. You are right, the cross brace on Matt's looks a *little* thicker than the old one, but it is definitely not the new one - compare:

http://www.teamevader.com/images/shock_covers4.GIF

Jep

[kitty]

Jon - I took my Jag apart last night. That's the first time I've ever taken a motor apart so I was a bit nervous. Still, I figured it's a cheap motor and if I had any problems, I could call on you guys ;) To my dismay, I could not find a single timing mark anywhere on the stupid thing - nothing on the lablel or the can. The can has a cutaway and the endbell has two tic marks, but that's it. No information came in the package and Peak's web site is about as useful as their 2400 battery packs are. That's the reason I was asking whomever else around here has the Jaguar 17x2 how they set the timing on theirs.

Jeff - I remember seeing the pics of your top brace, as well as receiving a new one like it. I figure there was an interim version, as they did seem to make a few changes along the way. Matt's top brace has wider ribs than my old original style does. Oh well, it's not surprising. I still love those pink shock socks you have hehehe I need to get a set in purple and one in pink just for grins.

Andy - great idea! I posted in your thread, but nothing helpful yet

[jep_rc]

Re: top brace pics...

I should have put a disclaimer, the photo and the truck in the photo are not mine. I linked to a photo on the teamevader.com website because it was convenient and had a good shot of the "newest" top brace.

Jep

[TeamMishap]

Had some time to myself yesterday and decided to advance the timing on the Orion Rush 11x2 motor I got to tax my Super Rooster. Is it possible for a motor to be mislabeled? The endbell was locked to the can with metal tabs, there was only one bearing in it, there was no timing ring, and it looked like there were more than 11 winds. I ruined the darned thing prying the tabs open and with no timing ring, there was no way for it to lock the endbell down at anything other than the notched out 0 deg. Weird eh? I sent it back to Orion, maybe they'll send me a new one.

Will hold off on dismantling and playing with my Cham 2. Don't want to richard that up too and have to push my Evader around.

[p.n.e]

sounds like its got a fixed endbell. No motor with adjustable timing should have tabs holding it in place, only screws.. i never trusted orion in the first place ;)

[Eichbaum]

hallo leute
Very shortly i will either buy the envader ST or BX, now that i looked a little closer @ the ST i really like it, now i have no idea which 1 i should get.
They both have the same motor, so they should have the same speed, right ? here in mannheim i found out we have a track, im going 2 take a look @ it and then i quess i will have 2 d-side.
Or should i just get the ST because it can handel rougher tracks ?

[jep_rc]

Hallo Eichbaum,

If you plan on racing at the track, you should see what classes they run. My local track does not run 2WD buggies (BX) anymore because everyone has stadium trucks (ST). That may help you decide.

Jep

[pudder]

At my track, there is only about 4 people who race buggy sometime including me. I don't think buggies are as popular as ST's for racing, but check your track out and see what the showup is there for each class usually. :) You can expect a bit more speed and quicker acceleration from a buggy.

[TeamMishap]

The ST is a great truck. Not many great hop-ups for it yet, but those too will come. It's a great, inexpensive beginners truck, and it takes all the Scheiße you can give it. If you don't like RC, you didn't spend that much on the experiment.

Glückliche Feiertage

[Eichbaum]

i saw he hop-ip list on the duratrax HP, what do u mean by "great hop-ups" i dont really understand that .
plz help

[ronbeck]

contact team orion and see if they will excange it?
my 19x2 rush has a slot with maker for adjusting
the timing. it's on the negative side of the endbell.
but there are no specific markings like other motors.

hope this helps.:D peter

[Eichbaum]

i just read that some batteries need a "pulse charger"
Now i was wondering can i charge "normal" bats with a puls charger, or just the ones that need 1 ??

[jdm3849]

All of the batteries on the market can be used with pulse chargers. Even though it is better to charge NiMH's (3000's and 3300's) on a Linear charger they will be OK with a pulse charger.

About the BX vs. ST. The BX beats the ST in acceleration, the ST barely edges out the BX by about .4 MPH top speed. For racing I would say get and ST because they can deal with the rough parts of the track better. For bashing I would also choose the ST because it can handle the rough stuff and will not bottom out as easily. Not to mention you can put masher 2k's on it. (along with other fancy wheels)

[TeamMishap]

T Orion said to send it back and they'd send me a new one. I think the danged thing was mislabeled.

Hop-ups are upgrades (Steigungen) for original parts. When the original stuff breaks, you can "hop-up" to a better quality part. Hope this helps.

[TeamMishap]

My evader has even survived an encounter with an Eichbaum. It really is a pretty tough machine. I never broke mine until I put a much faster motor in it. I didn't handle the speed too well and wrecked a lot at top speed. No machine is built to survive utter stupidity.

[guver]

Maybe this will help a little.

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=98419&highlight=motor+and+timing

I have both motors and they are supposed to have bearings and adjustable timing. Jag has no timing label, and the Rush label is in the wrong spot.

[TeamMishap]

Here's my convertible 6 to 8 cell battery pack. I think I may have too much time on my hands now that finals are done.

[p.n.e]

hey i like those labels! how are you charging the two cells?

[Eichbaum]

teammishap, what kind of motor did u have in it, and how many turns does it have, dosn't the original motor have 20 ??

[pudder]

Well, if you are planning on a buggy, you should be safe to know you can get somewhat creative with DuraTrax Paddles. :D

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02260.JPG

[TeamMishap]

Figured I'd spice up my vanilla stick pack cells with a little creativity. If anyone is interested in the dimensions, let me know. They are simple to make.

How to charge the two? Good question. I'm supposedly getting a good charger for Xmas. As for now I just hook it up to my 6-7 cell charger and charge the whole eight cells. It actually voltmeters out to around 10V after charging.

Oaktree-The stock Evader motor is a 20 turn very mild modified Photon. Just putting a spec 19 turn Chameleon in it gave it all kinds of new life. My wife and I started destroying the Evader once we put the new motor in it. Never broke it once with the stock motor and horrible driving.

[kitty]

guver - thanks for the additional info, bro. While I had the Jag apart last week I decided to change the timing just a little bit to see what happened. It definitely picked up speed, that's for sure. I dusted baby bro's Maxx using the same type of packs, except he's running dual (of course heh) 7-cell packs. Not too bad then. I'll be converting my crappy old 2400 packs to 7-cell side-by-side packs soon so we'll see what kinda trouble I can get myself into. I PMd a guy on another BBS for details because he mentioned using a voltmeter to find the sweet spot in timing, especially on motors with misaligned labels or no timing marks. Hopefully he'll respond. If he does, I'll share the info here.

Mishap - nice config on the 8-cell pack. You just gave me a great idea for mine heh I think I'll go ahead and just re-do all my stick packs to side-by-siders and use the spares in either doubles like yours or even singles to make a 7-cell on the fly.

[grewst]

Kitty-Glad to hear that motor is finally running healthier.

I finally broke some parts since my evaders rebuild. I cased the landing off a 5 ft jump, snaped a rear suspension arm at the chassis plate, and bent my TI hinge pin :( well at least I can replace just those hinge pins;)

[TeamMishap]

You bent ti? Wow, I heard that breaks before bending. Must be an old wives tale.

[pudder]

It happens...

[grewst]

It bent just enough for the new arms to hang up. I could still use them, but its annoying

[TeamMishap]

Gonna get some generic 3000mAhs 10/$30, with money back guarantee. Here's the new label.

[k_sw31]

Cool :p

WHere are you gonna get 3000's for 30$ though :confused:

And ten of em too :)

[p.n.e]

i found sanyo 3000's for 5 bux.
http://www.tnrtechnical.com/sanyo.html
scroll down to sub c cells.. thats 55 for 10 cells...awesome deal

[pudder]

I dont like it.

[TeamMishap]

BYDusa . com has em'. They look generic, but sound good.

From their page:

High quality NiMH Sc size, 3000 mAh battery with solderable Tab.

Each cell checked before shipping.

High drain current up to 30 A, perfect for various battery packs such as power tools, backup powers, RC toys, and electric guns etc.

All Batteries are matched

[k_sw31]

Wholy crap they have some nice prices! :eek: :D


24 1800 mah AA's for 30$ :D
3000 mah sub c cells, 20 of em, for 60$!
:D

[grewst]

Thanks for the tip on the batts. Going to check it out later.
I need AA's bad.

[jdm3849]

Do you guys/gals think that I should get 3 2000's in mint condition in side by side formation with numbers for 53$ shipped with plugs?

Or should I get 2 2400's side by side with numbers and plugs for 55$ shipped?

Also there is the option of getting 2 2000's with tags and side by side formation with a 2400 (side by side,tags) for 60$ shipped.

I am thinking the more the better because i will be practicing and bashing.

thanks for the opinion

oh yea, I will be using a 17turn SG pro (which my 1700 works fine with already)

[Prinler]

Get the 2400's.... pay $15 a pack like i do for matched packs :)
EBAY
http://**************/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2565&item=3100897992&rd=1

3100897992

someone who won this auction could ez make there money back by selling 1/2 of them back on ebay lol

[Eichbaum]

ok guys this week i will order my envader st :)
well i need some help before i do, i dont quite understnad the special @ towerhobbies, o nthis page http://www.towerhobbies.com/products/duratrax/dtxd20.html
it is showen 4 160$ but when u look @ the ultimate combo list it is about 200$ , now *** is the diference between thos 2 specials ?? i have no clue !!!! plz help

just 2 bad i have 2 wait so long before i get it beacause it has 2 be shipped 2 germany :(
2morrow ( christmas ) i will get my digicam, then i'l post a pic of the 3 rc cars i have now that are not in use, one was in kuwait with my dad bac kin the 90's, so the all are dinosaurs :)
prettty funny to look @ them

thats all 4 now


cya

NicK

[p.n.e]

usually in the ultimate combo they try to sell u useless things like ca glue, a 4 way wrench, body paint, aa's, etc. with the evader all you need is a battery pack and charger. even comes with aa's, tires glued, prepainted body, etc.

[Prinler]

I would not purchase an Evader Retail. On Ebay you can purcase one for cheep. New or used. They are all over there. Just ask each if they wouldnt mind shipping to germany. I know i would if the pay was good.

[pudder]

Can you ship me to Germany too? I need to go find my family.

[jep_rc]

Hi fellow Evader Owners,

I have a preview of couple of new Evader Hop-Ups on the Jep-R/C page. These will be available January 10th, 2003. Let me know what you think. Thanks.

LINK:
Jep-R/C Products (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/products.html)

Jep

[TeamMishap]

Well, I had the BIG one. Busted the front bulkhead, hinge brace, and front shock tower. GD garbage can got me again.

Was playing at night, just cleaned the Chameleon and fixed a hung brush, and zapped up the 8 pack. Wasn't paying attention and BLAM. Found out my battery pack design was structurally sound. It held together just fine. I asked for some aluminum Evader schwag for Xmas. Maybe Santa brings me an aluminum bulkhead.

Merry Christmas everyone!

[pudder]

I just want to ask, how does the Chameleon 2 perform? I ordered one for my Pede. :)

[p.n.e]

the numbers on the dyno sound awesome for a 19 turn. i think the rpm's were similar to a sg 15 turn. Don't you just hate garbage cans? when i first let my friend drive my evader, boom, full speed into the neighbours empty can. sent it flying about 10 feet. :o

[TeamMishap]

Love this motor. I got the Pro model that was diamond trued etc. The chameleon is very noticibly faster than the Photon. That's when all my breakage started to happen. I had no experience when I got it, but I still love it's performance.

[pudder]

Well I don't think skill or durability will be an issue here. :) I ordered the Pro version of course. :)

I'm buying this motor for my Stampede. :)

[guver]

Eichbaum, that is a good deal, $159 - $15 coupon for later. The ultimate combo includes a cheap charger and cheap battery if you dont have them.

Mishap, I checked out that site, and cant see where the batteries are matched or what brand they might be or what numbers they might have if they are matched. Im really interested in buying some bulk cells, but those look a little strange to me. I thinking of getting a box of 24 gp 3300 for next year.

[guver]

Just broke another front bulkhead, I gotta get that kit from jep. How about incorporating the front brace into the bumper so it would be bolted to the bottom of the front bulkhead too?

Anybody tried those generic cells yet?

[pudder]

I dont like the sound of Generic Cells. :( You get what you pay for sometimes...

[TeamMishap]

The ad says they are matched, but you are right, I don't see any numbers posted. Customer service there has answered a few questions already. I'll ask em how they match 'em and what kind of cells they are.

[pudder]

Yes, all matched cells I have seen have had readings on them, and they should. For bashing these packs are fine I'm sure, but I would rather spend the extra cash to get some race proper batts from companies known like Reedy, Corally, Nuclear Power, Trinity, ect. :)

[p.n.e]

i have two packs of nuclear power batteries from great hobbies and they arent they best batteries i've used.. they say 1800 mah but seem more like 1300. the only good thing about them is that they're 20 bux a pack. when i buy backs i look for one thing and one thing only, sanyo cells. my sanyo 2400, 5 cell pack that i bought used, still has more punch than an 8 cell pack of nuke power 1800's. even after the abuse i've put them throught like melting the pack, discharging to 0 several times, over charging till the shrink wrap melts :o , their sanyo quailty still shines.

[pudder]

Get the higher end ones... They are the most popular around my track, the owner swears by them, and he knows what he is talking about. I wouldn't judge a company by lower batts like that though. :)

I got a Nuclear Power 3300 today, holy **** is it nice!

[p.n.e]

hmm, i'll have to try some of their nicer ones like u mentioned. i still need to get a charger capable of doing nimh's. just out of curiousity, how much was that 3300 pack? ones at my lhs go for around 100, which is more than an average charger... one other thing i dont like about nuke's are they use cardboard tubes instead of plastic shot gun ones.. is it the same on your 3300 pack?

[pudder]

Nope, mine is high quality pack, no cardboard or anything. I don't know pricing since it was a gift, but I'm sure more than 100$. I have a Tekin BC112A so I can charge nimh and nicd. :)

[TeamMishap]

I got a set of Peak 3000mAh packs, MRC 959 charger, blue ballcups, rear aluminum hubs, and an aluminum hinge pin brace. No front bulkhead :( My sister my have gotten me that though...or a speedo that I can return and get an aluminum bulkhead.

Merry Christmas!!

[Nemo]

I got a blue aluminum front bulkhead and a p94 13t double, and a pirhana 1800 7 cell, but that blew 2 fuses right after i plugged it in both times to my pirhana peak power charger! That makes me mad. I want that front and rear brace for the bulkhead from jep-rc. especcialy since the al front brace from duratrax in 11$.

[kitty]

Nemo, definitely get at least the front brace kit from Jep. I can personally attest to far fewer broken parts, especially front arms and bulkhead. You may also want to check into the RPM bumper that's made for the XXT. It screws right onto the Evader and has a bit of a "lip" that helps protect the front end better than the stock bumper that's more of a skid plate than anything.

pudder - please let me know how that Chameleon motor works in your Pede. I just bought the Pede kit for xmess and I'm upgrading it as I build it. I got a big list of hop-ups and upgrades from a few web sites and paid special attention to parts that make it even more durable.

Nothing new on my Evader, but two weeks and no broken parts. I'm not jumping it off anything these days, which accounts for some lack of breakage, but I've rolled it a number of times and not even a crack anywhere. Baby Bro got a Hummer body for his E-Maxx and has already broken it. I've looked it over and in my opinion I think it's a piece of crap. The material is too thin for that size of body and with all the square-ish corners on the cab, it's just waiting to break on the first roll-over. I also think it's pretty ugly to begin with. If they made one that's like the Hummers used by the military, with the sloped "back" on it, I think it would hold up better. Aaaannnyway...

Hope you all had a great holiday!

[pudder]

Kitty- Alright. I have asked lots of people on the Traxxas message board and they say it is an awsome motor. I sure hope I will still be able to pull wheelies with it though. :)

The only few upgrades I am planning on getting for my pede is RPM hub carriers, bearings, hitec 5625 MG servo, new body, and new motor.

My friend has the Humvee body he got for his stampede. In my opinion, I like it, and the plastic is actually quite thick compared to most other 1/10 bodies.

Kitty- be sure to buy a new body quick. The stock pede body lasted me only 4 packs before it was not usable anymore, traxxas has the worst lexan I have ever seen. I ordered the BoLink Chevy Truck body, I like it. :)

[spreckenzy]

i got my evader about two weeks ago and have already broken a knuckle arm, rear hub, hub carrier, bumper, rear suspension arm, and front hinge brace.

It was cold about 30 F and i was pretty hard on it so i was not surprised.

I replaced the parrts with aluminum parts where i could and since then i have had no breakage even after some hard crashes.

I like the evader i am so happy with it i bought one for my girlfriend so we can bash together. i is always more fun with a partner!

[pudder]

Hey, mind sharing a pic of your girl. ;)

[spreckenzy]

would if i could

do you like your pede is it durable?

i was between that and another evader but since i have alot of parts for the evst so it will be easy to repair since the parts are here at my house

[k_sw31]

The pede is hella durable :D

Its been around freezing here the whole day, and my pede has been run into stuff (i also have a 15x2 in it) like walls, etc. Not a part broken :D

[pudder]

Defiantly a really durable long lasting truck. Awsome handling too!

[kitty]

pudder - thanks for the info on the Chameleon. It probably has better "real" specs on it than my 17x2 Jag heh. I'll take a look at that 5625MG servo. I'm considering a Cirrus for mine, but if that has good specs and price, I'll definitely consider it. Thanks also for the tips on the stock Pede body. I may just slap a quick coat or two of paint on it so I can still see it down the street. Baby Bro did a quickie paint job on his Hummer body with rattle cans that still have plenty left in them so I'll just "borrow" his for the Pede body. His buddy tried to use fluorescent red on his Hummer but backed it with a dark purple and it came out a real mottled, funky orange-ish colour. All he had to do was read the friggin can where it says to back it with silver or something similar. They could have asked me, too; I read the painting forum stuff quite frequently so I can learn more for when I get a better airbrush.

I already have that Buggsy body that I was going to put on the Evader, but I'm going to try it out on the Pede. I spotted a really radical looking "lead sled" body, I think by Bolink or Parma, that I'm going to check the specs on. I think it would look pretty tight on the Pede. I'll be getting a "bashing body" soon, too, so I have one I don't mind scratching up when I decide to get really wild with the Pede. If the paint job on the Buggsy doesn't turn out at least somewhat decent by my self-imposed perfectionist standards, I'll use it.

spreckenzy - hey, welcome to the thread! It's nice to hear from a guy whose significant other likes RC stuff too. I'm glad to hear that you're having fun with your Evader - enough that you broke a few parts ;) The way I see it, if you don't break something, you're not really using it heh If you decide you want another, I'm going to sell mine with over $100 worth of extra parts. I'll be posting it in the FS/FT forum soon.

[pudder]

More pics on my site, as well as I do on my page for him http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/chris.htm We lenghened the chassis to best fit the body. :)

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02538.JPG

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02231.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02239.JPG
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02241.JPG

[jdm3849]

Nice hummer pudder.

Is there a way to fit a flatbed truck body on a ST like the T3? what would I need to get to make it fit? (looking at the silverado by pro-line made for the pede.

I would really like to get a body like the one on the speed freaks NMT tested in RCCA about a year ago(mercedes SUV/van)

[pudder]

It's not mine, it's my friends.

You would have to mount some aftermarket body posts to the truck to get flatbed bodies to work. Personally I think it might look a bit silly since it would have to be raised (the body) a lot and if you were racing it would be better to not do it... Your choice. If you looked at it I am sure that you could easuly adapt some.

[p.n.e]

is the stock chassis that wide? it looks pretty thin, never knew pedes looked like that with the lid off. kinda shaped like a savage:confused:

[spreckenzy]

kitty
yeah i think the process of breaking the evader is just as much fun as fixing the thing. and thanks for the welcome. i have read through all 79 pages of this thread before repying and have gotten alot of great info from all of the users especially the inventive pudder and yourself.

pudder cool pics on your website i couldnt get the vids to play though.

and i was wondering if anyone knows if i can get aluminum parts other than the ones offered by duratrax? i,e, suspension arms. and tell me if i am crazy for wanting this evader i have to be a total bulletproof bashing machine by being completely aluminum.

[pudder]

If you want stronger suspension arms, buy some Losi XXT arms. I think they are a direct fit to the Evader.

About the vids on my site, if they won't play directly from the site, right click on the link and select "save target as" and you can download it to your hard drive and view them from there. :)

[TeamMishap]

Seems everyone wants aluminum things that Duratrax isn't making. I want graphite stuff myself. It's an ongoing bizzatch that Evader drivers have.

I posted a while back about a guy the CNCd some aluminum A-arms, front brace, and servo brace. They looked nice. Duratrax should consider doing more parts.

[spreckenzy]

i was driving my evader today and the throttle wouldnt work. the servo worked and the battery was not dead so i cleaned the brushes on the motor and it seemed to fix the problem.

question is how often should the brushes be cleaned or changed?
are brushes brushes or are some of better quality?

[pudder]

You should change your brushes when they are a faint purple or blue (burnt) or when they are worn out.

[jep_rc]

Here are some pics of my son's Evader. I recently put on the new body, aluminum bumper, RPM Clawz rims, and Road Hawg tires. Ready for bashing when it warms up here...

Jeps Evader Picture 1 (http://sio.midco.net/jbriden/photos/Jeps_Evader_3.jpg)

Jeps Evader Picture 2 (http://sio.midco.net/jbriden/photos/Jep_Evader_1.jpg)

Jeps Evader Picture 3 (http://sio.midco.net/jbriden/photos/Jeps_Evader_2.jpg)

(I picked up the Ocean Minded and Waveline Surf stickers when we were on vacation in California. They gave me the inspiration for the body theme.)

I have some new photo links on the products page, click here...
Jep-R/C Products (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/products.html)

Jep

[guver]

Jep would you know how much your bumper, front braces weighs?

I'll be getting some when you get them in. thanks

[jep_rc]

guver,

I will post the weights here and on my website when I get the first production set back from the shop.

Jep

[Prinler]

The Bumper for the XXT has been out for a long time. ITs awsome.! and its made of plastic. They are like $5 if that. Well worth it :)
other then that. JepRC stuff is awsome

[Paul_D]

Jep - what body is that, and did you have to do any modification to get it to fit?

[pudder]

I am not sure if I am right, but I think that might be a Dahms body for Losi trucks, I though I saw one on their site before like that. :)

[jep_rc]

Paul-D,

That is a Losi XXT-CR body that I picked up cheap on eBay. It is an actual Losi manufactured body. Losi had a few versions of the XXT-CR body. It fits perfectly without modification. The mounting hole "dimples" are even in exactly the right locations. I haven't checked in a while, but I think Horizon Hobby still sells these.

Jep

[jep_rc]

By the way -

I submitted full resolution pics of the car to RC Car Action for their Reader's Rides. I hope I win a free subscription for my son, we both love that mag. (hint, hint, if anyone from the mag is reading the forums).

Jep

[quadna71]

hi everyone,
not sure if anyone remembers me...i was on here a bit back a few months ago. i see that the loyal "gurus" are still here too!!! i've moved back to the states since then and am working on gettinga new house. unfortunately that means that i'm going to have to part with my EVST. i'm looking to sell it and all that goes with it. after this house issue has panned out i'll look towards a nitro stadium to start up with again. if you're interested, check out my auction at ebay (#3104578804). i think it's a fair asking price considering all that i've included in it. if you think differently, let me know and maybe i'll adjust it accordingly. otherwise, happy bidding and i'll see everyone around!
chris

[quadna71]

sorry,
but someone just took it with the "buy it now" button. see you all later on the board!
chris

[pudder]

Jep RC and any other members- If any of you want to submit some of your good pictures of your Evaders to me, I have a Readers Rides section on my site.

For more details: http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/readers_rides.htm

[AznJunkie]

Hey people. I just got a used evader. I sold my AE GT and I real happy with the evader. I was wondering if anyone here is using or is going to use a brushless motor in their evader. I want to go with brushless, but I’m not sure if the evader can handle the brushless motor. I hear that the brushless motor has lots of torque. So if one has it please let me know.

TIA,
AznJunkie

[pudder]

To tell you the truth, I doubt that the Evader could handle a brushless.

[k_sw31]

Man your a funny one :p

Well, possibly if it was say a novak or an orion, with ferrite magnets :rolleyes: Possibly, my friend blew up his tranny with a 15 turn :(

[AznJunkie]

So what's the fastest turn motor I can put in the evader without blowing the tranny.

[pudder]

I wouldn't go much lower than the 17 turn, plus you can't go lower than 17t safely with the stock esc.

[p.n.e]

i think the biggest problem will be the torque. my evader has a 9 turn motor in it and its holding up fine, and i've heard of someone using a p94 in it too. brushless has a lot of torque tho, it might ruin the tranny. when i was testing out my paddles, i tried the stock photon on carpet with the slipper locked to see if it would wheelie, all i got was CRUNCH from the tranny :( thankfully it was ok but i think it was the teeth slipping over each other inside the tranny.. if the slipper is set right im sure it will be ok. ah..what am i doing..i just convinced myself to go bl..lol!

[AznJunkie]

LOL p.n.e go to the dark side of BL. :D I was thinking if I set the slipper right it would be ok too. Once I get enough money :rolleyes: I will go BL. Who cares if I blow the tranny, I can always replace that.

Thanks pudder. I was going to get a better esc if I stick with brush motor. I wanted to know the lowest turn motor that the evader will handle.

[Prinler]

P.N.E. goto HERE (http://www.finedesignrc.com/cars-trucks.asp) and if you have any questions CALL Chris. He will help you! :)

[Nemo]

Hey guys my evaders for sale if anyone wants it, its got new losi rims with losi t-2000 wheels run for about 1 lap perfect condition, stock tires and rims basically slicks but i put chains on them for the snow works great, has an aluminum from bulkhead which is 37.99 at tower, great condition, no radio or reciever, can come with futaba mc230 esc +photon motor+peak performance motor or not, either way, lookin for money or a t3/xxxt roller, if i can get a roller I will pay money with the evader too, my emails conormoe56@email.com email me for an offer, if any of you evader fans want another theres nothing wrong at all with this one! also body is in perfect condition and there are a few extra parts, 4 losi springs, 1 extra front shock, 1 extra front shock with bent shaft, cant think of what else, make an offer!

[PITBULL]

I've had plenty of problems with my Evader st. But, I have to take in the fact that this was my first RC car in years, first real hobby car. I've had to replace front hub carrier, servo gears twice, rear shock carrier, bumper, and that's about it. The more familiar I've gotten with the car, and better I've gotten in driving it, the less problems I've incountered.
I've made a few changes to the car: 22 gear... It's made the car a lot faster on the top end. Has anyone out there figured out anything as far as a good bumper that you can put on the front of the car.

[pudder]

Lots of guys are saying the RPM bumper for the XXT is really good. I think JEP_RC might also make one, I am not sure.

You can be sure that your servo will not strip if you buy a good metal gear servo. Check out www.hitecrcd.com they offer many good servos at cheap prices too.

[luvmyevader]

I am new to this forum, so please don't flame me if this has been posted b4.

My evader is about a year old, but from the time I took it out of the box, it makes a loud shriek from the diff or the slipper, when I punch it of the line or hit reverse.

I know the diff and slipper are not the best in the evader so I am looking for tips on the best setup for this truck.

thanks.

[pudder]

Try tightening up your differential first. If the noise stops you know that is your problem, if it didn't stop, try your slipper.

[p.n.e]

hey guys, i think im gonna sell the evader to start saving for a 1/8 nitro. how much do u think a rolling chassis should be priced for? I think i'd done all the mods i can to this thing except bl, and it wont go any faster.. I'm planning on getting a used 1/8 buggy.

[kitty]

Damn! I mentioned about a month ago that I may sell my Evader and it looks like this place has turned into the for sale area lately.

Jon, I don't mean you, though. All you did was ask what we thought a rolling chassis would be worth. Speaking of, what exactly do you mean by a rolling chassis? No electronics? Just curious.

luvmyevader, welcome to the Evader thread! If your Evader is about a year old, you have one of the original ones with the old style slipper set. If the noise you are hearing is only for the first foot or two off the line at full throttle, it probably is the slipper - just tighten it until it slips for only about two feet for whatever surface you are racing/bashing on. If it's really screechy, your diff may need just a little tightening. No worries there, though. I know that this thread has a lot of pages, but it's well worth reading back through all the posts. There is a lot of good information in there and you can gain a better perspective of the Evader from the earlier days to the current "version."

Pitbull - I can't remember if I've seen you here before or not, so welcome to you as well! Though I'm running a 17x2 motor in mine, I may bump up the pinion to a 20 or 21 tooth. The motor doesn't heat up at all right now, but I'm using a 18t pinion and it's been pretty cold at night when we bash. I could use a little better top end now that my best friend just got new Monster motors for his E-Maxx and is running 7-cell packs. Just keepin' up with the Jones' so to speak ;)

[TeamMishap]

I just realized I cracked my chassis. Never noticed it when I dismantled my front end. I think I've now busted everything but the rear shock tower and rear bulkhead. I'll order one from Tower with my aluminum stuff and have a free Stress-Tech spare around.

I somehow damaged a Team Orion 3000mAh pack I got for Xmas and I never had it in the truck yet. Split the bottom end out somehow. Just another side-by-side project to tool with.

How about them Buckeyes?!? If only I had the ballcups to put money on the game!

[spreckenzy]

well after i got my aluminum front/rear hubs, hinge plate, and hub carriers i went about a week and a half without any breakage!

then i took her out in the below freezing weather, did a half a dozen laps on my makeshift track then bottomed out on a eighteen inch jump and cracked the gearbox case.

crap!!!!!! sheesh!!!!!!
new parts on the way. broken parts to dtx then i will have a spare.

i hope all this breakage is due to the cold weather because i have broken seven parts in the first three weeks. only two of the parts were my fault.

[spreckenzy]

mishap
how long have you had your evader?

and do you think cold temps may play a role in the damage?

[pudder]

Cold temps do play a major issue with the Evaders soft plastic. I know that for a fact.

[what_up_kid18]

Originally posted by luvmyevader
I am new to this forum, so please don't flame me if this has been posted b4.

My evader is about a year old, but from the time I took it out of the box, it makes a loud shriek from the diff or the slipper, when I punch it of the line or hit reverse.

I know the diff and slipper are not the best in the evader so I am looking for tips on the best setup for this truck.

thanks.

The same thing happened to me. replace the diff gear. mine was stripped badly:(

[Nemo]

That happened to me and I did replace the diff gear but didnt solve it, I am gonna take the tranny apart again tonight though see whats the deal

[pudder]

Look closely at the teeth of your idler gear to make sure they arent stripped also. You might also want to look at your gearbox to make sure it is not cracked, which causes flex and can cause the gears to click.

[spreckenzy]

i cracked my gearbox and i does cause flex and it did make that clicking sound . check it out.

i want to run my evader but there is an inch of snow out there and the evst seems to be very brittle in cold temps.

are all rc vehicles so fragile in cold temps?

[what_up_kid18]

ive been running my evader through snow all this winter. it runs fine. make sure your tranny screws are tight and the gear mesh is good. also make the truck have maximum ride hieght:

1.adjust the shocks so the spring is at its tightest

2. put the shocks in the lowest hole in the front & rear shock towers.

this setup works for me and the Evader runs great, no problems.:D

[spreckenzy]

kid
have you broken many parts driving in the snow?
i been breaking parts like they are going out of stlyle

[p.n.e]

the only thing i've ever broken in the cold is the tranny brace which was my fault. i was coming down the driveway at full speed and when it flew ovre the section that connects to the road it landed sideways. :(

kitty a roller means no electronics, no radio, no motor. it just rolls around like a hot wheels hence the name. have you sold your evader yet? im surprised that i actually got so many interested people asking about mines. drop me a pm or email later and we can talk more about this! :)

[what_up_kid18]

i havent broken any parts in the snow.:D

the only parts that ive broken wre the front body post because of a head-on collision w/ my cousins stampede (that truck has 8 shocks! 2 on front, 6 in back.. awesome truck!) and the diff gear because of I dont know, but that was in September.

I havent replaced my body post yet though:(

[bohemus]

:) :)

Hello everyone, this is my first post as a new member and will certainly not be my last. I have been reading this forum for some time now, and am very impressed by the great information that I have been able to obtain. My wife recently purchased an evader on ebay(old chasis) in excellent shape as a christmas present.
I have been out of the remote control car arena for about 10 years now and have decided to pursue the hobby once again. Let me just say, this truck is quite impressive. There is a list of features I did not expect to touch for the price. I live in Ohio, and as you know the winters are nasty. However, I have yet to break this truck even through some nasty spills over 5-6 foot snow piles off a bicycle jump!
I have changed the stock photon out for a 15 turn double titanite speed gem pro.* (This really made a huge difference in speed). Additionally, I added a duratrax intellispeed 8t racing reverse speed control, proline dirt hawg tires, blue aluminum front brace, and plan on a new slipper soon.
There is a dirt -oval track nearby, and everyone races foam on the stadium trucks there (hard pack). Does anyone have a suggestion on what foam tires (premounted) work best on the evader. I am nearly ready to place another order to Tower!

Any help would be appreciated!!!!

[pudder]

Try JACO truck foams, go for something like a Green compound. I race these tires on carpet, they are really nice and I'm sure okay for a dirt oval, they are nice and wide, and green is pretty soft.

[what_up_kid18]

my truck w/ maximum ride height, waterproof chassis, and a team orion 17 turn motor.

[what_up_kid18]

my waterproof electronics:D

[what_up_kid18]

my broken body post:(

[k_sw31]

Screw a tupperware container on, I'd think it would work a lot better than scotch tape, c'mon! Atleast use duct tape! ;)

Like this-

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/ksw04.jpg

[bohemus]

Thanks pudder for the suggestion. Tower has the green
Jaco 1/10 Medium Standard Wheel 1.87" w/Foam Green, however I was unsure whether these would fit the evader. Furthermore, would you use the same bearings/ bearing spacer as the stock evader? The picture shows a very large diameter bearing house for the wheel bearings.

[what_up_kid18]

the side that is against the shock tower is held by double-sided tape (the thick white kind) and I reinforced it with scotch and electrical tape. It holds fine!:D

[k_sw31]

Lets see some snowy pics then :D

[p.n.e]

i thought that was an evader at first! :eek:

[what_up_kid18]

ill post some snowy pics once it actually snows again.;)

[pudder]

Originally posted by bohemus
Thanks pudder for the suggestion. Tower has the green
Jaco 1/10 Medium Standard Wheel 1.87" w/Foam Green, however I was unsure whether these would fit the evader. Furthermore, would you use the same bearings/ bearing spacer as the stock evader? The picture shows a very large diameter bearing house for the wheel bearings.

I don't know about the picture, but give me a link and I could tell you forsure if those are the right tires, but they should be, I think JACO only makes standard bearing truck rims, as well as pin wheels for the rear.

Mine are the standard bearings, I used my Evader bearings on them fine.

[what_up_kid18]

what truck is that?:confused:

[bohemus]

Pudder,

I found the following two green foam wheels on towers site:

green jaco 1 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCME7&P=7)

green jaco 2 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCMC7&P=7)

Let me know which one you are using!
Thanks!:D

[pudder]

The first link is 1/10 pancar tires, and the second link is for 1/10 touring car tires.

I can't acess my server for some reason so I will post the picture when I get it back.

Until then, hold tight.

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by what_up_kid18
what truck is that?:confused:

Stampede :)

[pudder]

I second the stampede!

[Prinler]

Geeze and no one has problems with shorting your batts out?

[pudder]

Why would you do that?

[TeamMishap]

Bohemus, where in Ohio are you from? Sounds like northern if you have bad winters and snow on the ground.

[pudder]

Bohemus- I got my site back, and I have the picture of my truck. It doesn't show the tires great. I hope this helps They also come in yellow rims too.

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02976.JPG

[bohemus]

I live in Mansfield, about 55 minutes from clevelan and 55 minutes from Columbus. We usually get quite cold temperatures here and many times when everyone else is getting rain, we get snow. I would not say that we are necessarily in the snow belt area/ though we have been plagued with some lake effect snows in the past.*


Pudder, I have scoured Tower's site and cannot find these tires! I have found some other sites (horizon, and stormer hobby) that feature green compound truck tires that hav LOS in the description. These are manufactured by TRC, however are on back-order right now. If I can't get these tires off tower, Ill probably go to the LHS and ask what they recommend. They have alot of people racing evaders on clay there. However, I have yet to actually take my truck to the track and have only been the Hobby store once*:cool:

[what_up_kid18]

hey k_sw31 youve got an awesome truck. My cousin has one with a p-94 in it and also has an 8-shock setup with 2 in front and 6 in back.
:D

That truck is FA S T !!!!! :D

[k_sw31]

Prinler-Heat shrink :)


kid- Yeah, I've heard of putting xtra shocks on, but, whats the point? (I run a 15x2 speed gems pro :))

[toolcity-racer]

I have just purchased a evader st for my brother and have purchased 3 chameleon 2 pro motors for a friendly race between brothers but i can't find the specs on the stock sprint esc. Can it handle a 19 turn motor or do i have to replace it before i send my brother the new truck . I t has not been delivered yet so i have time to make changes if i have to. And are there any upgrades you guys feel are required to make it less prone to break since this is my brother's first vehicle.
Also what bodies will fit this particular truck layout.

[pudder]

Bodies for Losi XXT and XXXT will fit directly.

[p.n.e]

the sprint can handle to around 18 turns. even 17 if you're careful. watch the temps tho.

[k_sw31]

Yeah but remeber, if you go under 20 it voids your warranty

[pudder]

Which is why you don't tell them... ;)

[TeamMishap]

Putting no loss connectors does too. What an "alteration" that is to the original equipment. I'm not complaining. I've got 80% totally new plastic thanks to my p### poor driving and Stress Tech

[PITBULL]

Check it.... I was messing around with my evader yesterday, tunning up some things, tightening the slipper cluth, and ball differential, trying to eliminate the slow acceleration and noise problem i was having. Well, this is where it gets good. So, After tightening the ball differential, and the slipper cluth, i put my car back together and turned it on to see if i still had the same zhzhzhzhzhzh sound. Well, i started off my accelerating fully and guess what happend........not only was my evader nearly sound-free, but also, my evader st popped a WHELLY. i sware to this. i have everything stock in my car still.. the only thing that is truely differnet than out of the box is my 22tooth gear. for this wheely thing to work for me so far, i have to be on the carpet. i got it to work on the gravel once, but wasnt really trying for a wheely. in it's nuetral stance, all i have to do is reverse for about 5 inches, then floor it frontwards, and it's wheelying, a good wheely too. So good that if i hold the acceleration for too long it rolls over. I've tried to make this happen in the past, but never any luck, i'm not sure exactly how to tell you how to do this, but just make sure your ball differential is tight(snug tight, not too tight), and your slipper clutch is the same. I cant believe the difference that it's made.
Also, I have my truck set to the lowest clearance in the front, with the spring shocks pretty stiff. In the rear the clearance is at its highest, and the spring shocks are a little on the boingy side(set mid way). let me know if you try this, and if so, does your evader hit wheelies, or does has it ever.

[p.n.e]

sounds like you're having fun, i've done wheelies before with the stock photon. its not good for the tranny tho, the slipper should be loosened to the point where it slips for about two feet on full throttle starts. the reverse slams will strip the gears, be warned.

[PITBULL]

Thanks for the info... I've had all the fun I need with the wheelies.. I just didn't think it was do-able with the evader. I've adjusted my slipper clutch, and it's all good.. I didn't think about the slamming it foward to reverse and gear stripage.. again thanks for the info..

[toolcity-racer]

thanks for the info on the esc guys !

[pudder]

Originally posted by TeamMishap
Putting no loss connectors does too. What an "alteration" that is to the original equipment. I'm not complaining. I've got 80% totally new plastic thanks to my p### poor driving and Stress Tech

I sent in a few of the DuraTrax ESC's with no loss connectors on before and they replaced it on my warranty for free. Sadly, they ust throw my connectors away, so when I sent in my last ESC, I took them off looking like I hard wired soldered things. I'm not letting them throw out my connectors!

[what_up_kid18]

Hey, k_sw31 I think you wanted to see some snow pics. It only snowed 2-3 inches but here ya go!:p

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by PITBULL
Check it.... I was messing around with my evader yesterday, tunning up some things, tightening the slipper cluth, and ball differential, trying to eliminate the slow acceleration and noise problem i was having. Well, this is where it gets good. So, After tightening the ball differential, and the slipper cluth, i put my car back together and turned it on to see if i still had the same zhzhzhzhzhzh sound. Well, i started off my accelerating fully and guess what happend........not only was my evader nearly sound-free, but also, my evader st popped a WHELLY. i sware to this. i have everything stock in my car still.. the only thing that is truely differnet than out of the box is my 22tooth gear. for this wheely thing to work for me so far, i have to be on the carpet. i got it to work on the gravel once, but wasnt really trying for a wheely. in it's nuetral stance, all i have to do is reverse for about 5 inches, then floor it frontwards, and it's wheelying, a good wheely too. So good that if i hold the acceleration for too long it rolls over. I've tried to make this happen in the past, but never any luck, i'm not sure exactly how to tell you how to do this, but just make sure your ball differential is tight(snug tight, not too tight), and your slipper clutch is the same. I cant believe the difference that it's made.
Also, I have my truck set to the lowest clearance in the front, with the spring shocks pretty stiff. In the rear the clearance is at its highest, and the spring shocks are a little on the boingy side(set mid way). let me know if you try this, and if so, does your evader hit wheelies, or does has it ever.

Hmmmmm, now you should see my stampede with a chameleon armature in a speed gems pro can :D

[k_sw31]

nice :D

[drumr racer]

Does the threadid shocks on the evader work 4 the Team Losi XXtcr, for off road?

[pudder]

Yes, they will work on the Losi Trucks.

[drumr racer]

How much are the thredid shock bodies.
Does anything else fit on a losi.
does all of the hop-ups 4 the st fit on the bx?
Thanks guys.!!!!!!!!:D

[p.n.e]

hope you didnt bury it in snow on purpose ;) did you water proff your servo?

[what_up_kid18]

Yes, I waterproofed my servo, and no, I didnt just bury it in the snow. I took a drive yesterday in the 2 inches that I had. There were tons of ice paches for me to do 360's and 180's. It was awsome.:D

[k_sw31]

Speaking of burying stuff (not on purpose) :D
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/ksw07.jpg

[what_up_kid18]

Nice pic!;)
Do you have an evader?

What other trucks do you have if any?

[k_sw31]

I dont have an evader my self, but I play around/destroy my friends

I have a T3 and a Pede, plus a micro :)

[kam]

How interchangeable are the Evader parts with Losi XXT parts??
The reason I'm asking is that my son broke his front chassis stiffener on his XXT, and I was wondering if one would work off of an evader. All the shops are backordered/out of stock, for the XXT part.

[pudder]

I don't get what you mean by chassis stiffener, if you mean top plate, the piece that goes atop the steering and to the front bulkhead, no it won't fit with the XXT. Basically the XXT arms, and shock towers are direct fits.

[kam]

Thanks, after posting I surfed around and found a pic of the Evader part and it's definately different. The XXt is hinged at the end of the plate.
I just brought home a sheet of aerospace plastic from work and fabbed a temporary replacement for him and it works like a charm.

[what_up_kid18]

Cool!;)

I have a micro too.:D

[AznJunkie]

Ok I finally broke, really bent, one thing one my evader today. After numerous cart wheels from bad landing, hitting garbage cars and a T3 head on several times, and running over/into speed bumps. I bent the shock shaft. This is one durable truck. I got it used and I though I would have broken lots of parts by now. It looks like the older one. So far so good. :D

Does anyone know if other shock shaft will fit the evader? :confused: I went to my lhs and they were out of shock shaft for the evader.

TIA,
AznJunkie

[pudder]

I am not sure if an associated one will fit... If they carry shock shafts that fit Losi truck shocks, get some of those, and for the proper shock too.

[AznJunkie]

Hum my lhs don't really carry losi stuff, but I will check. I won’t be able to get it until Monday. Hopefully they will have part.

[pudder]

If anything, take your shock shaft that you have now, and find one that matches in length.

[PITBULL]

I was just wondering how fast does everybodies Evader go?
Mine is all stock, I think I'm going to get a 18T motor soon, to increase my speed. Currently I'm at 25mph.. Thats not too bad, since the only speed modifications I've done was as 22tooth pinion gear.

[ginshun]

I don't really know the exact speed, since I haven't checked it, mine is stock other than a 25T pinion. Its pretty fast.

[guver]

I have timed 4 new evst. 3 of them went 15mph stock and 1 went 13 for some reason.

1 all stock with 8-cells went 25.
1 with 15t motor and 7-cell went 25.

both with stock gearing

Also have a street one with small street tires that i run at the parking lot is geared 30t by 81t but I havent timed it. It takes a while to get up to speed, but it is fast on the topend.

the evbx should be quite faster as it is lighter and geared higher, even though it has smaller tires.

[spreckenzy]

then why does the box say it goes 21.4 stock?

[jdm3849]

The EVST stock goes 21.4, so your right. The EVBX goes about 21MPH flat. Both tested by RCCA so I dont know how the heck someone got one that went 13 LMAO.

I would say that my Evader with a 7 cell sanyo and a 17T SG Pro go, ummmm.....slow. lol probobly like 27MPH, i am used to my X-NT so these electrics seem real slow. BTW, thats with 18/88 gearing.

[Nemo]

at least 35 with a 13T double p94 and Im not sure of the gearing. Lots of torque, stock spur I believe, and then like 16 tooth pinion

[ginshun]

Does anyone make aluminum a-arms and shock towers that fit on the evader st? I'd like to beef mine up a little.

[guver]

I didnt notice my box saying 21.4 mph. Was that the st or bx?

My stock out of the box speeds were with 6-cells, and on dirt/gravel. So I guess they might have done 20 or so with a good 7-cell and on road.

Oh wow I just ran my st for the first time in over a month, and hit a brick and broke my first a-arm. booohooo

Ginshun --there was some cnc aluminum stuff on e-bay awhile back, but I dont know if it sold or how much. I believe he only had one set.

[Aluma]

Well, I for one have a problem with "topspeed" measurements. On the race track, you'll find that nitro and electric are very equal.
I doesnt really matter which has a higher topspeed...who cares, you'll almost never find a track with a straight large enoug