Duratrax Evader ST Forum v2.0

[jdm3849]

now i have to take my anger out on someone RIGHT NOW!!!!

[Poolboy51]

What parts did you order?

[Poolboy51]

lol. Every Sunday, I have some excuse or somebody else does that keeps me from going racing.:mad: :mad: :rolleyes: :(

[popee]

A 13T in an evade? Go very low gearing, personally, in my losi XXT, i dont like to run anything hotter than a 15T, Evaders are supposed to be fun cheap cars, with a lower weiindmotor you will be replacing it and the brushes alot more.....

[Prinler]

Im getting a 15 triple or quad on the duratrax int. 12t What pinion you guys recomend for my p2k2 and my new 15 turn. Thanks :))))))

steveP again

[benjermaine]

maybe a 17 18 or 19 tooth pinion for 15t motor. you might could do a 20 or a 21 toother but dont let things get to hot. with the p2k you go up to a 25 26 or 27 but again just get as much speed as you can without sacrificing run time or letting things get to hot. At least thats what I would probably do. hope that helps:)

Ben

--aerodynamics are for people who dont--
--dont know how to use engines--

[benjermaine]

whoops guess i messed up on my signature with a double "dont" o well ill change it sooner or later

[jdm3849]

Prinler, a 21 or 22 tooth will be great for the p2k2
and for the 15 turn a 18 tooth will be great.

Benj., I never could get my sig. to work.

[Prinler]

Do brands matter? Bolink? AE? Robinson Racing? ECT? What would/ did you get?

[jdm3849]

Robinson racing is the best out there, The absolute series pinions are really quiet, the steel ones last longer but arnt as quiet as the absolute pinions and the aluminum ones (the absolutes are aluminum buy have a rubber coating to quiet them)
oh yea, get 48 pitch. It will cost about 8$ for 2 RRP pinions

[kitty]

Thanks to all the help I've received here and a few other forums, my choice is made - a Duratrax Evader ST! Unfortunately I forgot to call Tower earlier today about one of the ones in the scratch n' sniff section (or was that scratch n' dent?) because the email I sent to the address provided was returned. gah!

TeamMishap: thanks for the input. I'll take that to heart, coming from a guy with a nickname like yours :p

Darth Evader: I haven't looked at your site yet (still playing on the forums yaknow) but I'm looking forward to it. It'll be nice to see a site dedicated to this truck with information gleaned from the forum. Thanks!

Benjermaine: I have a bit of soldering experience, so hopefully I can help by adding to what the guys have said so far. I definitely recommend 60/40 solder at a medium gauge size. If it's too thick (more than 1.5mm), things can get pretty sloppy. As for tinning the wires, it wouldn't hurt to use a little dab of extra flux to help things along.

What you need to do is first heat the wire you will be soldering. Heating time depends on what wattage of iron/pencil you'll be using. I get by fine with 25 watts for gauges thicker than 12g. If you hold the tip of the soldering iron against the wire and touch the solder to either the opposite side of the wire or at least 1/4 of the circumfrence away, when the wire gets hot enough it will draw the solder right onto it. Depending on how much exposed wire you have to tin, if it's pretty short, hold the tip of the iron to the very end of the wire to avoid melting the plastic.

You'll know you did it right if the solder on the wire is nice and shiny. Dull solder is indicative of a poor connection and can break easier (also called cold joint soldering). Don't worry if it does that at first, though. You can re-heat it until you see the wire bundle draw the solder right into it.

This may sound complicated, but it's not. I have a habit of making things sound that way. Once you get the hang of tinning wires, the rest is all cake. It's good to practice on various pieces of wires with different gauges until you get a good feel for what you are doing. Plus, that way you'll have more confidence in your abilities and less likely to shake while soldering something important. Believe me, I've been there and once did some pretty sloppy cold-joint jobs until I practiced on leftover wires. Good luck to ya!

[Prinler]

YACK YACK YACK its all i do.


Any hoot Duratrax 12t, Speed gem 2 Jde 15 turn quad, and one 22 and one 18 pinion . $120 shipped... not bad. Does anyone know where i can get this cheeper?

[benjermaine]

stormer hobbies has some things way cheaper than tower and some things that arent cheaper. You might check there.

[pudder]

Originally posted by jdm3849
If your on a budget and want reverse, Duratrax intellispeed 12turn reverse esc, with trinity speed gem pro 17 turn double amber.
that will cost about 90$

If you are not on a budget and still want reverse, LRP super reverse, trinity p-94 14turn double.
That will cost you about 160$

If your on a budget and want forward only, duratrax streak esc, trinity speed gems pro 17 turn double amber.
that will cost about 70$

If you are not on a budget and want forward only, novak dually, trinity p-94 14turn double.
that will cost about 150$

JDM- Why get a 17t motor if the ESC can handle down to a 12 t. Get atleast a 15t tripple to go fast, I think all the speed gems cost the same price too.

[Prinler]

Word! exactly :)

[EDMONTON]

well ive narrowed my motor selection down to a p2k2 pro oo chameleon pro. Reason being is escs are expensive here in Canada, so im stuck with the stock one for a year. Is there a noticeable difference between the two.

What speed gem closely resembles the chameleon in terms of rpm and power.

cheers:D

[Prinler]

the p2k2 pro and the chameleon 2 pro are great motors . And for the evaders ESC it is rated to be flawless with a 20 turn. You can get down to a 17t but watch out for heat. The chameleon is suposed to be a great upgrade from the stock 20 turn. Yeah the photon is good but not as good as a name brand motor like a chameleon or p2k2 pro :) Goodluck. Oh and look for esc on ebay :)

Cheeep :)

[pudder]

The highest turn speed gems would most closely resemble the chameleon 2. It may be better to get the P2k 2 Pro if you are planning on racing it because if you buy the chameleon 2, it is under 27 turns, thus you would be thrown into the mod class if there is one. I race with the p2k 2 and lots of other guys around here too, I have to say that it is quite a popular motor around here.

Is there even any racetracks around where you live, I know there aren't any in RCCA track listings.

[Prinler]

Hey pudder what pinion do you use on p2k2 pro?

[pudder]

I don't run my Evader anymore, actually it has a future buyer. I did run I think a 21 or 20 tooth well in temperature for bashing though, 19-21 is a good range for my motor.

On my T3 I have to gear it lower than everyone else for some reason but still kick ass. :)

[EDMONTON]

hey pudder

yea we have a track but im the only truck registered in stock class so im racing with the mods. They all have speed gems and the lowest one is a 16t. The p2k2 appeals to me but I think I need the cham to at least keepup somewat. I know your going to tell me i should get a 17t but i really want one of the two. I make up for the slow photon with driving skill and the fact that I have my truck dialed to the track, but that still doesnt help u in the straights.

Tanx:p

[pudder]

That's alright, go for the chameleon 2 then.

So how are you doing in your points for stock? :p

[EDMONTON]

hey pudder

You can check outour track here in edmonton when I get the web address for u

later

[pudder]

The track's website here is boring, no pics right now, if there is racing this weekend I will take some pics from up on the drivers stand, I forgot to take pics yesterday when I was there. :p

[EDMONTON]

Here is our tracks web adress www.telusplanet.net/public/swp/
Sorry I dont know how to post a link.

We should be racing tonight if the rain lets up. To answer your question I dont know how many points I have cause they havent updated them I have only finished in two mains. My truck used to always break in the qualifiers till I started converting to losi xx parts. I havent broken anything other than servo horn since June. I swapped it for a t3 one and it seems to be holding up good. My motor should be here by noon. Hoping to have it in my truck for tonight. Everything else is ready to go.

I looked at your site it looks like a sweet track.

Cheers::cool:

[Peterbilt]

I was reading around and it seems as if when yall request replaceparts, yall do not have to prove yall actually own the truck. Is this true, or did i forget something ?I'm a possible Evader buyer (in 5 months)and if this is the case, I'll start requesting parts to save my ass before hand. (its mean to rip people off but hey, they are literally giving the parts away) :D

[EDMONTON]

Sorry to burst your bubble but they dont do that anymore. U have to send your parts in now. Even when you didnt they required the # on your esc. It used to be as easy as emailing your esc # and info and up to 6 parts required at a time and I would receive them here in Canada in 10 days. Gone are the good old days. Just try to find losi xx graphite parts when u break any. Ihave had luck with em. Plus they look cooler and say graphite on them. I pay just about the same as u would duracrap parts. Dont get me wrong, the evader is a good truck, they just need to find other material other than nylon.

Cheers:p

[Peterbilt]

there is no way the evader is made of nylon. the pede is made of nylon, and i have not broken ANYTHING.

[pudder]

I think you're made of nylon! :p j/k

Edmonton-just to correct you, the parts you are putting on your evader would be xxT, because the XX is a buggy, just dont want anyone to get the wrong parts.

[EDMONTON]

your right pudder it is xxt

I didnt build the evader so I cant be absolutely sure it is made of nylon but when every other brand of truck is hitting you or vise versa and yours is the only one that breaks EVERY TIME that tells me something. a truck going into a corner at 10 mph or whatever should not break when bumped. Im going to get hate mail over this but thats ok. Ive had the truck long enough to know what I know and there is no convincing me otherwise.

I too own a stampede and its my favorite basher truck, however they are not bullitproof and I have broken my share of "nylon" parts.

Hey pudder did u look at my local tracks website?

Its raining out so I think tonights race is canceled. BUMMER
:(

[Peterbilt]

Well, it looks like I'll have more cash available when i'm ready to buy. I'll be gettin a XXX-T MF Edition unless Duratrax cleans their act up with the parts.

[EDMONTON]

if you have the cash thats an awesome choice.
im going to save up for one this winter and give the evader to the wife or kids. I wouldnt want to get rid of it cause I know the truck well enough for tuning and repair and its an excellent beginner race truck. I could put a ton of money into it but id raher leave it for stock class racing and invest in a xxxt for mods for next season. Winters in Canada are long so ill have lots of time to do this.
Theres nothing like bringing home a new rc truck. Hope u get it.
Oh and if the wife is reading, bringing home a your newborn baby is better hehe

cheers
:D

[jdm3849]

Originally posted by pudder


JDM- Why get a 17t motor if the ESC can handle down to a 12 t. Get atleast a 15t tripple to go fast, I think all the speed gems cost the same price too.

Why? because if your on a budget you probobly have cheap batts and they wont work good with a lower turn mod. And if your using a 17 turn with a 12 turn limit esc it wont get as hot.
Word

[jdm3849]

Originally posted by pudder
The highest turn speed gems would most closely resemble the chameleon 2. It may be better to get the P2k 2 Pro if you are planning on racing it because if you buy the chameleon 2, it is under 27 turns, thus you would be thrown into the mod class if there is one. I race with the p2k 2 and lots of other guys around here too, I have to say that it is quite a popular motor around here.



Theres a thing called 19 turn spec class too ya know.

You'll be pleased with the chameleon,it has ball bearings so it wont wear out as quick as the P2K2.

A chameleon will most resemble a 17 turn sapphire (older ones, not pro's) Because there have been kids at my track with chameleons and they went the same speed as my 17turn, because the chameleons have a newer can design they will run better.

[pudder]

Originally posted by jdm3849


Why? because if your on a budget you probobly have cheap batts and they wont work good with a lower turn mod. And if your using a 17 turn with a 12 turn limit esc it wont get as hot.
Word

The ESC shouldn't be getting hot anyways 5 turns away from the limit if you have it geared right. In fact, if the driver has it geared right and is not putting strain on the ESC, you can even go lower turns than the ESC reccomendations, but I wouldnt try it.

[jdm3849]

Were not talking about me here, were talking about esc's.

[pudder]

Any better?

[Prinler]

OMFG! I just got my Dirt hawgs, New rims, Ca glue, and a P2K2 pro motor. I just got home and i glued my tires. Sodered on the leds hooked it up to a fresh charged battery and Im in aww. With a 18 tooth pinion ( the stock one ) IT HAULS! Much better then the 20 turn photon. I mean this is a large difference. 5-10 mph ... and im geared wrong lol. do you think if i put the 20/21 tooth pinion on it will go faster? Oh and seemed like i didnt get the 10 mins like i used to.

[pudder]

As long as your motor isnt burning you in atleast 3 seconds with holding your finger on it :p That is about what mine is after a long race, wait, you are bashing right? Well keep it so you havea nice balance of torque and speed, and so it is not hot. :)

[TeamMishap]

My name comes from bicycling mishaps not R/C :)~

Just wish I could remember what happened during the mishap...

[quadna71]

hi everyone,
okay, i finally got around to checking out the link that edmonton posted of his racetrack. is that pretty much a standard looking track? i don't mean to sound dubious or anything like that - i only got my first truck since i got down here in honduras and haven't seen an RC track before. so, how many times around the track is an average race? also, how many trucks on the track on a given race? and what about the drivers??? do we stand on that ramp they have set up to the right in his picture? i'm just trying to get an idea of how the thing works so when i get home i can start showing up at our local track and see how i compare. thanks ahead of time...
chris

[pudder]

It all deppends on the track, car, driver, showup of people ect, varies from track to track. On the offroad track here they can put atleast 6 or more trucks on at once and have enough room, but on the indoor carpet track here you will only see about 4 or 5 at the most on at one time for trucks.

[jdm3849]

Chris, you are racing against the time, not the other racers.

but here is the addy to the track up here in minnesota
www.twincityhobby.com

[EDMONTON]

The electrics race for 5 minutes and we only use about half the track. They ddivide it with pylons. The track is actualy catered to nitros, thats why we have some long straights. Ive driven the whole length of the track and an electric wouldnt make too many laps in 5 minutes. Our section is mainly the whoops and and tight sections. Thats why I cant wait to get a chameleon pro.

The drivers stand is about 12 to 15 feet high. I cant remember the exact height but it works awesome. We have have computer software that anounces races, drivers, marshals and everything. we start the computer at 6 p.m. and it times and decides everything. It greatly avoids delays. There will always be those who say just another minute im almost done fixing my truck but this computer software there is no waiting, the race starts when it starts.

cheers:p

[richeyrich12]

are there any other bodies that fit on the evader other than the one that comes with it

[sycotikskir]

I got a crowd pleazer body and it DOES NOT fit. The guy at the hobby shop said it should but it doesn't. I'm goin to have to rig up my own body posts if Iw ant it to work but it won;t work stock. Oh well i guess thats 20 bucks down the drain

[EDMONTON]

I think the crowd pleaser body is for the nitro xxx losi (xxxnt). I ordered the gmc body from pro-line meant for the xxxt. Ill let everyone know how it fits in about a week or two.

later:)

[JoeUSA 1]

just tested my evader with 14.4 volt and a 12/2 motor and it flys, going out tonight to see if i can get it clocked for speed.:D

[ameittunen]

what are some good tires for the evader? I need some for losse dirt and semi-packed dirt too. Did you know that duratrax is coming out with another evader but it is a buggy.

[Prinler]

The best tires i have found are the Dirt hawgs!!! They rip it up on any surface. Asfault, lose dirt, packed dirt. You name it! Oh and looks pimp on Blue rims :) IMO , 14.4 volts? HOLLY COW! No thanks. heh dont even want to get started in that idea. hehe brings me to this thought tho. My buddy Just got a E-MAX and he hooked it last night. This is his first car. We were running it out side his work where he had it shipped. It was only doing about 15 mph. for about 10 mins. When we got home i showed him how to charge his batteries and just general maintinance on the car. When they batteries were both charged we took it outside and they first thing he did was Floor it. Big mistake. It flipped over imidiatly on its back. and there went out jaws. Rignt on the floor. that truck just got up and WENT! turning is hard cause there seems to be a large delay from the time he turns the remote to the time it acually makes the turn. BUT OMFG! Nice. just to see how long i can make this.... when i told him to watch my car cause i had to go in the local bush, he acually jumped off my car at full speed! Jumped it like 3 feet in the air off my car... Anyone own one? He has some questions.


Oh For everyone here who owns an Evader :) With his Duel titan 550's :) im still faster by a few mph with my p2k2 pro with an 18 pinion :) BOOYAA!!!!

Sorry for the largest run on sentence and the mispelling.

stevep

[EDMONTON]

I would give the gladiators a try. They are still a soft compound tire, have foam inserts and have very aggressive treads. I had to use them cause my step pins didnt come in and thats all the lhs had for soft compound. Well, that night I spanked everyone for the first time at the track. They are running step pins and they laughed at me.The first heat was very hard packed cause it poured rain that morning the the sun came out. By the third qual. the track became VERYloose like it normaly is. The gladiators stayed consitant during every lap and qualifier. I was Pleasantly surprised. The only complaint is that they are taller than pin type tires but u can gear accordingly.

Cheers;)

[EDMONTON]

I think today I will start my evader/xxt project. I have a spare duratrax chassis and many parts still new in the package. My local lhs has ton of boxes of losi xxt stuff, including all the graphite upgrades. I have a few losi parts on my current evader but I want to put as much graphite stuff from xxt on the new one. The rest i will get in blue. Rod ends I can get from losi but rest ill have to get from duratrax. I want to use proline tire and wheels and body. Havent decided which servo to use. I have a bunch of fut s3003 but need something quicker.

Does anyone know if the losi xxt-cr upggrade would fit on the evader? I can get pretty much the back half of the truck in graphite(including arms and tower) and aluminum screws for 30$ canadian. Its about 50$ worth of duratrax parts but graphite instead. I know it will bolt up to the chassis just fine but my main concern is the tranny. Iplan on using the evader tranny .

Thanks:)

p.s Hey pudder are u hibernating or what
It cant be that cold in winterpeg

[pudder]

Ya, it is cold here the last few days :(, it is supposed to be getting better today though, luckily we had perfect weather for racing yesterday.

Edmonton-I have no clue if the XXT tranny would fit because the evader's is like a stealth, different format than the XXT.

You know what would be cool to do, buy XX buggy parts instead of XXT, make an Evader buggy with some Losi parts, I bet that would kick ass!

ps. I will be gone for next day or two. Going to do some painting and grandmas house, and I need money, plus I will be able to drivemy T3 around. :)

[EDMONTON]

It would be cool but i think that the chassis is too wide to build a buggy. Im not a 100% sure cause ive never built one. I think it will look cool with evry thing graphite from losi(cause it says graphite on em) and evrything available from duratrax in blue but not aluminim cause i want it light and i dont personaly care for aluminum. Im getting motor guard, ball cups, belcrank, bumper battery strap. Am I missing any in non aluminum? Thats gonna cost like 20$. I think thats cheap. I should be saving up for another rc instead but a well.

Later:p

[EDMONTON]

U should check these guys out. www.greathobbies.com they have an lhs here in alberta and they do mail order. They are the cheapest I can find on majority of stuff. They sell a p2k2 for 40$ canadian and the other lhs want 60$ and up. They have a toll free # cause they are primarely a mail order business.

Have fun at grannies

[sycotikskir]

hey I am thinking bout switching my evader toa buggy.... How much will it cost to go with all the evader parts. and how hard will it be??

[Tweeter400]

Is anyone competing is stock class with an evader?? Everyone says go with the T3, but budget doesnt really allow that.
How is the durability on these trucks is racing??
Thanks for any info, I am still new to racing!

[jep_rc]

Originally posted by sycotikskir
hey I am thinking bout switching my evader toa buggy.... How much will it cost to go with all the evader parts. and how hard will it be??

Syco -

You are better off waiting for the new Evader BX buggy kit, it will be cheaper in the long-run. Here is the link to the RTR kit description:

TowerHobbies EvaderBX Buggy (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXXJ48**&P=7)

If you search for " evbx " or " evader bx " at TowerHobbies, you will get hits for all the buggy parts, kits and prices.

Later,
Jep

[EDMONTON]

Yes theevader ie competitive in the stock class. Just get a p2k2 pro or p2k by trinity and 21 tooth pinion and you can be competitive. Get your evader dialed to the track and youll be winning some.

good luck:p

[racerdave]

Originally posted by richeyrich12
are there any other bodies that fit on the evader other than the one that comes with it
I recently was given a Losi electric truck {xxx?? graphite** and my evader body fits right on. The losi did not have a body that I could try on the evader. rd

[pudder]

EDMONTON-The chassis are the same width on buggies and trucks I believe, they are just shorter, but you could probably get away with that, the only thing is you would have to do something about mounting the body with the different hole mounting locations, and get new shocks for the front, and probably rear.

I have known about Great Hobbies for a while but after I pay taxes, and shipping on top, the thing would probably be just the same as the prices at my track's pro-shop, they have good prices, and will get in prettymuch anything that you want in under a week.

[sycotikskir]

Pudder are u saying that if Iw anted to make my truck a buggy i would just need to get new shocks and towers. and I could make it a buggy??

[EDMONTON]

I forgotabout shipping and handling but we dont pay pst in alberta only gst but I see what your saying, I didnt think of that. Its really nice cause they have a lhs by my house but I pay web prices

Later:D

[TeamMishap]

Do you guys use the Deans only for the battery to ESC connection and/or ESC to motor connection too?

[pudder]

Originally posted by sycotikskir
Pudder are u saying that if Iw anted to make my truck a buggy i would just need to get new shocks and towers. and I could make it a buggy??

No, you need new CVD's, suspension arms, shocks, shock towers, and someway to mount the buggy body. Oh, I forgot, turnbuckles too, it would probably be better to wait for the new buggy to come out anyways.

[pudder]

Originally posted by TeamMishap
Do you guys use the Deans only for the battery to ESC connection and/or ESC to motor connection too?

You can use them for both, but there is not really much point to do it to your motor, they look kinda dumb sitting there too, just hardwire the esc wires to your motor, you will also get a better flow.

[Orbit]

I just got some new tires and wheels for my Evader, and holy cow!! It's like a brand new truck!! I got some yellow Losi XXXT rims, and a set of Dirt hawgs for the back, and then I put the rear tires from my RC10GT on the front of the Evader. Man, talk about traction!! The truck is like twice as fast now! The original tires wore down pretty quick in the back, and they just didnt grab the terrain I have to drive in (loose gravel, sand, grass), but the new ones rock. If I turn to fast the truck flips! I highly reccommend Dirt Hawgs, they are great.
I also got a Trinity P2K as well, but I havent been able to run it yet because I thought the motor leads on the photon were just clipped on, but they're not and I dont have a soldering gun yet. Can I expect shorter run times with a 2400 batt with the Trinity even tho it's less turns than the photon? I'm really excited to find out how much better the performance will be with that motor. Anyone have that motor in their Evader that can fill me in?

I love this truck man, it's a great intro RC yet has great potential. I was out of the hobby for quite awhile, but I find myself bashing with the Duratrax over my GT. It's a blast!!

BTW, anyone know if there is an aftermarket transmission available for the Evader? Is there one for another vehicle that fits/works? Mine starting to "click" a lot and it's got me worried. I tightened up the Diff, and adjusted the slipper, but it still does it, although not as much.

Thanks!

[mpyacfo]

Where are some hop-ups for the Duratrax Evader? Can someone give me some sites? Like links? Thanks

[sycotikskir]

Hey I got a P2k Motor in my evader and it hauls butt now. I still haven;t gotten the new pinion yet tho. I am running with some old 1500's and it doesn't last too long and right now I don;t have the cash to buy some 2400's or 3000's.






and about the hop ups.


Just go to www.towerhobbies.com and type EVST in the search place. thatw ill bring up all the evader parts

[JoeUSA 1]

got 14 volts thru a 12 turn double and if i put wing on it i swear it would fly, unbelievably fast

[EDMONTON]

I recently put a p2k2 pro in mine and I wouldnt say its much faster on top but it definately as a lot more punch on take off and anywhere in the midrange. Im using a 21 toooth pinion. Its perfect cause the track I race on is mainly tight so I need torq and acceleration. It hasnt hurt my run time either for bashing.

cheers:D

[Prinler]

I run a p2k2 pro and It rocks. very speedy. Just got the pinions in the mail. Only problem is that my truck is broken. Broke front bulk head, bent shock poll, rear chasie brace front body mount, the list goes on. I wish duratrax would ship the parts. I wasthinkging about ordering some new parts via tower and having them overnighted. I NEED TO RUN MY TRUCK lol. Ok and a quick question. why is my run time cut in half with a higher turn motor? I thought the lower the shorter run time? not the opposite?

[pudder]

You are all having fun, that is good to see!

The stock tires are ***.

[EDMONTON]

I agree with pudder. Mine are as smooth as an ***.
:D

[EDMONTON]

What pinion are u using with your p2k2 pro? Is your motor getting too hot?

My run time seems to have decreased a little bit but I think thats cause the p2k2 has a locked timing of 24 degrees. It runs hot nomatter what pinion I use but yours should not get excecively hot.

[evader32]

Hey does any body no the amount of teeth on the evst top shaft thanks

[jep_rc]

Originally posted by evader32
Hey does any body no the amount of teeth on the evst top shaft thanks

Evader Top Shaft (DTXC9665) (key#83)
48 pitch, 18 teeth
5mm x 10mm bearings

Jep

[topkart23]

does anyone know where i can find an adapter so i can use either a hi-tech, or a JR stearing servo?

edit:

also, does anyone have two extra ball cups that i could have?

and does anyone make spur gears that will fit? all i can find on tower is the stock, and i know traxxas spur gears dont work

[EDMONTON]

I you convert your clutch to a tc3 unit u can then use spurs meant for associated trucks. The clutch has all the same dimensions except for spur gear mount. The tc3 unit is better anyway and parts are usually eiasier to get and u can run different size spurs.

cheers:p

[topkart23]

would a JR transmitter work with a futaba receiver?

[pudder]

I dont think JR and Futaba are compatible, I am not too sure on that one.

You can make any servo plug work in any reciever, you just need an exacto knife to trim off some of the plastic, I use futaba plugs in a JR reviever, I just had to trim a bit.

[WheelNut]

Ya I used a JR reciever with my mgnum junior radio, jsut make sure there the same frequencies.

[pudder]

Originally posted by sycotikskir
Pudder are u saying that if Iw anted to make my truck a buggy i would just need to get new shocks and towers. and I could make it a buggy??

No, you will need a shorter chassis, buggy arms, buggy front shocks, buggy towers, axles, turnbuckles, body, wing kit, and tires, I think that is about it. It would just be better off to buy a new one.

[kinggeorge72]

Is There anybody having trans. problems ?
Just got a new evader and the idler gear has play that allows it to shift and lose contact with the diff. Making a loud grinding noise. This problem started with the frist battery pack. With no adjustmeants to the slipper. All settings are factory settings, nothing has been changed.
Any suggestions ? Temp fixes ? Or others ?:

[pudder]

It sounds like your idler gear is stripped out, or one of them. Take it apart and take a look. IF you want a stronger idler, the AE T3 or B3 idler gear will fit, but you will need to drill out the center to fit the Evader bearings, and it is also one tooth smaller than the stock one, but a hell of a lot stronger.

[DrKicker]

Pudder,

This is a complete new truck and the idler gear has too much play in the trans case. We looked at the T3 idler and the fact that it is 1 tooth smaller actually enhances the problem we are having with this truck. The stock idler isn't stripped, but will be if we continue trying to run the truck. It's almost like it needs one more tooth on it to fit right and stay in place.

Has anyone had to send parts in for the Stress Tech warranty? The trans case is listed as a stress tech part, so I should be able to send it in. What is involved other than calling Duratrax for an RMA number?

[Orbit]

>This is a complete new truck and the idler gear has too much play in the trans case. We looked at the T3 idler and the fact that it is 1 tooth smaller actually enhances the problem we are having with this truck. The stock idler isn't stripped, but will be if we continue trying to run the truck. It's almost like it needs one more tooth on it to fit right and stay in place.

Has anyone had to send parts in for the Stress Tech warranty? The trans case is listed as a stress tech part, so I should be able to send it in. What is involved other than calling Duratrax for an RMA number?<

Drkicker

Just a thought, but have you checked the teeth on the diff? I had a similar problem, where the gearbox basically sounded like a "grinder" and the truck would slip and not move when given throttle from a stop, the kind of slipping where everything is rotating fine, but no movement...and it wasnt the slipper clutch either. In my case, the idler gear had some missing teeth, but replacing it didnt fix the problem. On close inspection, I noticed that the diff had about 5-6 teeth that had worn down. It wasnt very noticable at all, and in fact, I had to look very closey to tell. I replaced the diff gear and now all is A-ok. Since yours is brand new tho, I dunno what it could be, but you might want to check the diff teeth.

Anyhow, as far as sending parts in, Duratrax has EXCELLENT customer support. I've had my servo arm break, and I had to just send it in to them, and they sent me the replacement. But the also sent me the idler gear, and the diff gear without having me send mine in first. I also got a servo this way after the gears stripped out. They are really friendly and helpful. Just call the number on the parts listing dittos.

[TeamMishap]

Just converted my Evader to Deans Plugs. What a B****. Talk about some ugly soldering. Got it down after about 5 hookups. They do look nicer than the Tamiyas.

Chameleon Pro 2 is in the mail, as well as my Robinson Evens Pinion set. I'm stoked about the new HP I am about to enjoy. Any suggestions on the pinion to run it with?

I just designed my first body today. Gonna be a Pittsburgh Penguin or Colorado Avalanche motif. It'll be a while before I put it on Lexan...since I don't know crap about doing a body. Anyone know of a jpg or gif of a Evader compatible body that I could toy with my design on Paintbrush or something?

Catch ya all later

[pudder]

I plan it out in my head, I say "I want this" and then I paint it, of course I keep my paint jobs simple, one main color, and one or two others for little things like trim. :)

[guver]

Originally posted by JoeUSA 1
got 14 volts thru a 12 turn double and if i put wing on it i s
wear it would fly, unbelievably fast

Joe what speed control are you using?
How did you mount two packs in there?

I just put together an 8-cell evader with stock motor and it runs prewtty good, but all I have is the stock ESC. I didn't want to over do it and burn something up.

[pudder]

I thought the stock one could only handle 7 cells? All of mine couldnt even last 6 cells, well it stayed cool, and I never did anything to make them blow, but I think this is my third sprint POS esc that I have gone through and am going to have to attatch a little letter along with my ESC.

[JoeUSA 1]

the esc is the one for the e-maxx(evx), the second batt is velcro wrapped to the top of the batt strap, the mottor for now is 12/2:D

[pinky8u]

my servo got very weak after a mistake in the water. What servo should I get thats not that expensive. Alo what esc and motor do you guys use in your evader and list some good hop ups I should get.

[pudder]

Good hopups for any truck are little things like titanium shock shafts, titanium turnbuckles, titanium ballstuds, a nice servo, nice motor, proper tires & rims...

[pinky8u]

would a xl1 esc with a 17 turn speed gem motor be a good upgrade? and my evader turns a lot better to the left then the right, does it happen to every one? and if so how do I fix it.

[WheelNut]

No, the traxxas XL1 esc is no good. Go for a ESC made by Novak or LRP, those are the 2 biggest most popuar brands. Mabye an esc from LRP's F1 reversing series. I have the pro and its great. novak also makes some reversible ESC's. Check out their site Novak (http://www.teamnovak.com/)

These ESC's are more expensive than some, but there worth it!

[pinky8u]

thanks, and what motor do you guys use with what pinoin?

[pudder]

Traxxas XL-1 Blows ass dude, sorry to bash stuff, but it is the truth, g ofor novak or LRP like the others said.

[TeamMishap]

I am FINALLY proficient at soldering those Deans plugs on!

The Chameleon 2 Pro now resides proudly in the back of my Evader. Haven't got to rip on it yet. I left my danged charger at my parents when I last went to visit.

No longer going to paint a Penguins mobile. Going to now make a Colorado Avalanche Evader with FasGlitter and homemade internal decals. I'll bet anyone a dime...that's right, 10 cents, that you'll see me in RC Car Action Readers Rides in a few months. Be the first Evader to make it.

Wish me luck.

[pudder]

We'll see, I have wanted to submit some pics of my T3, havent gotten around to it, someday I will. :)

[TOMC2002]

does anyone know of anywhere in the uk where i can get and evader from?

[TeamMishap]

Holy smokes. My new motor is a nice upgrade. I can do lengthy wheelstands from a stop now. I still have the stock pinion on. Think I'll try some other sizes soon.

[pudder]

But be sure to set your slipper, you will quickly fry the gearbox if you are mashing the throttle with no slipper on.

[baneonrt]

Hello, just figured I'd join the discussion. My friend and I bought Evaders about a month ago. His green, mine blue. Here is a picture of mine without the body on and minus ESC.

http://steve.baneon.org/misc/evader/nobody1.jpg

A couple other pictures can be found in the same directory.

So far I've shattered a rear A-arm and bent a couple of hinge pins and both front king pins. So I replaced the A-arms with XXT Graphite pieces and am going to order the titanium hinge pins and king pins.

Next up is a better ESC and a P2K2 Pro motor. After that I'm just replacing stuff as it breaks.

Not a bad truck, just have to work the bugs out :)

Steve

[pudder]

A kid and his dad showed up at the track yesterday with an Evader, I helped them set it up a bit for the track and I looked at it a bit, I see duratrax sure has beefed up this truck!

[jep_rc]

Originally posted by TeamMishap
... Going to now make a Colorado Avalanche Evader with FasGlitter and homemade internal decals....

Hey TM - What product are you using to make the internal decals? Let us know how they work out and post some pics. Thanks.

[pudder]

Liquid mask would work good for that.

[TeamMishap]

I've read good stuff about xxx main's picture glue and Parma is now advertising Fascoat as being able to do the same. That'll work well for my logos I'm going to put on, but I'm not sure how I want to do the text. I certainly don't want to cut out all the little letters and paste them on.

My immortal Evader has been brought down to the realm of fragility. My wife was wanting to try it out with the Chameleon in it and WHAM! smack into the outside of the house. Busted the battery strap button clean off the servo brace. Now I'm forced to try out the Stress Tech guarantee. My wife busted it 10 minutes after I finalized a Tower order too. And they won't amend it to add the item. Ugh. A less than $2 part has me out for God only knows how long...well...I could try velcroing the battery in!

Later gators

[baneonrt]

I need to replace both the spur and pinion on my Evader due to small rocks getting caught in the spur teeth. Do any of the Robinson Racing machined plastic spur gears fit? I think I remember someone mentioning the T2 ones bolt on.

Also, what spur pinion combination would work best with a P2K2 Pro? What about a 14 or 15 turn modified motor? I'm going to get one for bashing and one for racing.

Thanks for the help...

Steve

[pudder]

If you have a little piece of aluminum you can easily make a quick battery hold down button, just take a piece, cut it to the shape of the original piece, but leave a nub on part of it, drill your mounting holes, and then bend the little nub up, drill a hole for a body clip, and mount it, I dont know if you understand this, maybe I could find a picture sometime.

[TeamMishap]

Here's the starting decal layout for the new bod.

[baneonrt]

Well, just got done installing CVD's in my Evader. An easy task but not cheap. Here's a breakdown of the parts I used. Maybe it could be done with less parts but I wasn't happy with any extra slop in the rear suspension. You could save cost by using the non Graphite version of the parts where applicable.

A-2164 Rear Outer Hinge Pins
A-2162 'CR' Rear Inner Hinge Pins
A-6100 E-clips 1/8"
A-2126 'CR' Rear Hub Carrier Set w/Spacers
A-9810 Graphite/Composite Rear Suspension Arms
A-6206 4-40 x 3/8" Cap-Head Screws
A-9941 Bearing Spacer/Wheel Washer Set
A-6903 3/16" x 3/8" Ball Bearing (need 2 packets)
And of course the XXT MIP CVD Kit

I also used a pair of small 1/8" x 1/4" thin plastic washers from Home Depot to take up the slop at the inner A-arm.

The only modification you have to make to the Evader parts is to drill out the inner A-arm mount to 1/8" to fit the new larger hinge pin.

If you don't use the XXT hinge pins along with the hub carriers and a-arms then you end up with quite a bit of extra slop in the suspension. The Evader uses 3mm hinge pins in the rear and the XXT uses 1/8" which is slightly larger.

I did the swap because when I shattered one of my rear a-arms I also bent one of the axles. Figured since it's broke it's time to upgrade :)

http://steve.baneon.org/misc/evader/cvd.jpg
Like my custom slicks? :)

Steve

[baneonrt]

Hehe, well, I had a brain fart last night when posting my CVD message. It can be done with way less parts of course. Simply get the rear hub carriers, rear outer hinge pins and the 3/16" x 3/8" bearings and then all you have to do is drill out the Evader a-arm outer hinge pin holes to 1/8".

Steve

[JoeUSA 1]

went bashing today, launched my rocket 14 volt evader over a cavilier wagon, it did a complete back flip and landed on all 4 wheels, so i did it again and again till i landed on the roof

[pudder]

Brake anything? That is too cool dude, do you have any pictures or vids?

[TeamMishap]

I killed my truck. Busted the rear chassis plate off at the right hinge pin. Gotta love stress tech.

How in the heck do you get the retaining pin off the bolt that holds the slipper? I wanted to look inside my transmission, but can't get that little POS (piece of s...) off to open up the case.

BTW is it bad to have metal shavings in between the slipper plates? I'm sure it's not good. LOL

[pudder]

No it is not good. I hate those pins too, but they are nessescary to have. It was the same on my t3, but after you get it in and out a few times it is much easier. I used pliers for my pins, if you look at it it is pretty simple.

[TeamMishap]

It LOOKS real simple. Doing it however is driving me nuts. I've tooled at it all day with no luck.

The Evader has Ti hinge pins. Going to put an order in for those for sure.

[JoeUSA 1]

the round plate attached to the shaft can be pride off, it slips over a pin, the pin can be accessed by turning the plastic outer ring till there is an opening to push the pin out

[guver]

Originally posted by pudder
I thought the stock one could only handle 7 cells? All of mine couldnt even last 6 cells, well it stayed cool, and I never did anything to make them blow, but I think this is my third sprint POS esc that I have gone through and am going to have to attatch a little letter along with my ESC.

Pudder I used stock esc with 8-cells and stock motor, also my other truck has stock esc with 6-cell and 17x2 motor
Sometimes with a full charged battery and when landing off a jump it just stops for about 5-10 seconds, then I wait and can go again, maybe that is my speed control cutting out???

Ps . both trucks will do that stopping thing sometimes and both are geared stock and go about 21 mph topped out on gravel.

[guver]

Originally posted by baneonrt
I need to replace both the spur and pinion on my Evader due to small rocks getting caught in the spur teeth. Do any of the Robinson Racing machined plastic spur gears fit? I think I remember someone mentioning the T2 ones bolt on.

Also, what spur pinion combination would work best with a P2K2 Pro? What about a 14 or 15 turn modified motor? I'm going to get one for bashing and one for racing.

Thanks for the help...

Steve
Hey bane, I bought a couple of six packs for pinions, but for the spurs I bought all dtxc gears-078t, 081t, 086t, 090t http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=spur+dtxc&FVPROFIL=++
the 90 tooth hits the gear cover just barely, and the 98 tooth I think would hit the ball cup. 78 tooth needs a large pinion to get proper mesh because the motor won't go close enough( thats for hi-speed runnin') You can prettymuch gear whatever ratio you want with those.

Ps. that was cool about that backflip--I got rid of my 8-cell and went back to 7 because it was so heavy and kept breaking stuff when landing .

[JoeUSA 1]

where can i post a video??

[pudder]

Hotmail is very dumb and will not let me download it, if i could, I could host them on my site for you for people to download

If yo uhave MSN messenger we could transfer through there.

[kitty]

Warning: Long post. But please read it.
Hey again, guys!
I did end up buying an Evader. I got a great deal on one from the Scratch & Dent sale at Tower Hobbies. Not such a great deal after all, however. :mad:
<rant>
The listing "rated" it as N-A, meaning new, nothing missing, yadda yadda. Below it said it included any needed parts. Fine and dandy...I got a few spare parts with it, but NO ESC! The truck and spares were inside the original box, but the only original packaging was the end pieces. Everything inside that box was left free to roll and rattle around in shipping.
I called their customer service line and was told that because it was a Scratch & Dent purchase, nothing could be done. I debated that because I was supposed to get an RTR with ESC. The woman also told me that it came with no warranty. Interesting, because the first gal I talked to before buying it said it did come with a full warranty.
Since I had absolutely no service from their customer service department, I resorted to emailing them. Three days later and NO response from them. I've been holding back from filling out the BizRate survey, but at this point I'm ready to give them both barrels in my response.
</rant>
Now, on to the questions...

I borrowed an ESC from a friend so that I could play with my truck. It ran fine except for a few problems. I understand that it is supposed to have some slip off the line, but it was slipping really bad. According to the very basic "manual" that came with the truck, as well as the included video (which was more pimpage for their other products than info on the truck), once it's broken in (they say after a few battery packs worth of play), you're supposed to tighten the diff by removing the shaft and tightening it with a hex wrench. It says to tighten it down snug, then back it off 1/8 turn. No way, dude. It slipped even worse!
I readjusted the clutch as well, but that didn't work, at least according to their instructions for doing so. When I tightened the nut while holding the wheels to keep them from turning, I couldn't tell when it was tight enough to back off the requesite number of turns. I removed the cheap plastic cover and took the clutch parts out and noticed an oily film on everything and the clutch disc had absolutely no wear at all. After I cleaned it all up (I figured that was why it was slipping so much) I put it all back together, but still couldn't adjust it properly because the damned spur gear would turn even though I kept the wheels from turning.
My conclusion was that the diff was slipping way too much to be able to properly adjust the clutch.
I took the truck to a LHS for advice. One guy who works there and a customer who hangs out there a lot (doesn't every LHS have at least one of those? heh) recommended tightening the diff all the way in. I was afraid to try that and chance stripping anything out inside but at that point I was ready to try anything to keep my truck from going 15 feet before any power was applied to the wheels. So I tightened it down snug and backed it off about 1/16 of a turn. Compromise, yaknow, in hopes of achieving some success. It will take off fairly well now, but still seems to slip quite a bit, makes that funky noise I now know well as being from slippage and doesn't seem to reach full speed.
While at the LHS I bought a Rooster reversible ESC so that I could give my friend his back. It sure seems to have more off the line punch than the borrowed Duratrax POS - the same one mine was supposed to come with - no wonder my friend changed his out.

Now if you have read this far down, and I hope you have, especially guys like pudder, do y'all have any suggestions, tips and tricks or the like to offer? I'm really frustrated with my truck, so much to the point that I've cried a few times. I bought this for my birthday and so I could bash around with my best friend who runs an E-Maxx (damn fine truck!). I'm on a low budget so I couldn't afford a Maxx, which is why I went with the Evader. I was hoping to be able to go out to a track with a few friends on my birthday this week, but right now I'm afraid to even try because I'm worried that maybe the friggin diff is DOA.

Please help. :confused:

[JoeUSA 1]

you bought at the scratch and **** sale.
the problem seems to be the gears inside the tranny, do to severe play in the tranny case the gears may be slipping or stripped. inspect the gears, usually the middle gear gives the problem, they are really cheap at tower

[jep_rc]

Hi Kitty,

Don't be discouraged, the Evader can be a very fun truck (I own two, one for my son). I am very surprised your LHS couldn't be of more help. It is possible that the truck was a return, and does have a blown diff from abuse.

First, tell us what do you *hear* when you try to accelerate? Does it bark, or squeal, or sound loud and crunchy? If so, then you either have a stripped tranny gear, or a fried diff gear. Don't panic, these aren't too hard to fix.

If it makes more of a low whine when slipping, you probably just need to tighten the slipper clutch a bit.

If you think it is a tranny gear, or diff, get someone to help you take it apart the first time, or study the manual's exploded views and go for it. The broken gear or gears will be obviously missing a tooth, check them all - be sure to take the diff all the way apart (into halves), as a common thing for newbies to do is let the diff slip so much that the center of the diff gear actually melts from heat, so you *have* to take it all the way apart to check.

The exploded view is available to download from Duratrax website if you need one. Good luck, let me know if you have more questions.

Jep

[jep_rc]

One other thing. When you do get the truck running right, it is very important to keep the diff and slipper adjusted properly. Follow the video and manual instructions *exactly*.

The slipper is supposed to slip a bit and *must* slip to protect the diff and tranny gear teeth. The diff *will* melt if allowed to slip for very long. If in doubt, tighten the diff all the way and leave it - it is better to have the diff a bit too tight than to allow it to slip.

The slipper clutch is *supposed* to slip, so adjust it and let it slip a little bit.

I can't emphasize the importance of the above rules enough when it comes to the Evader.

Jep

[pudder]

I did read your whole post, and do have some suggestions for you, but I have to say that is pretty harsh man, I would rather cry then get mad and throw my car against a wall (which I have done on a few occasions, got very frustrated) but I try to look at the good that may come out of some things.

ex. it looked like rain, so I didnt go racing, bad move, it was nice later that day, BUT on the plus, I did beat a game, and did some other cool things at home, but I would have rather been racing, but I did look at the positives.

Here is how I look at it for you... You did get a good deal on it right? Well besides the missing ESC and no warranty, that just doesnt sound like tower. BUT you did get a much better ESC than the stock one!

As for your diff, all Evaders do have a loose diff from the start, so I contacted DuraTrax and they gave me some ******** answer. They should set the diff slightly tighter from factory, because when it gets broken in, wear occurs, lessening the tension.

I also had diff issues, the slipper worked fine, but I found that I had to tighten the diff screw quite tight before the diff would stop slipping, almost as much as you did. In comparasion to my T3, I can have the diff very loose on my T3 while not having diff slipage, but I needed it much tighter with my Evader, I dont know why though, quite odd if you ask me. There is not really anything you can do about it, sadly.

Just a little tip for your stress level; if you begin to get frustrated, just leave your truck alone for a while, watch tv or something, go back to it next day. If the problem persists, come on here like you did, or phone up your LHS. :) I did this, and it works much better than kicking, punching, or throwing your truck. Crying is better, and there is nothing wrong with doing it (so I will not pun you), it is sometimes better than taking your emmotions out physically.

Just a little story for you kitty; I know one guy, one of my best rc buddies, he is 20 years of age, and has recently gone through very hard times, I dont hear of him killing things because of this, nope, he will cry.

Note to all: I am just trying to help a fellow rc'er out, emmotions are a natural thing, and people express them in a different way.

[TeamMishap]

Sorry you crapped out with the Tower scratch and dent. Plunk 'em hard on the Biz-Rate survey, but be factual. I've had great luck buying the new stuff with them. Thanks for the warning on the S&D stuff, I was pondering buying something there but won't now.

So you said the Rooster really juiced things up? I put a new Chameleon 2 motor in and this SOB is fast now. Didn't know if a quality ESC would help, but if it helped out that turd of a Photon, it'll really help a good motor.

If you bought your Evader with a credit card, you could always ask the credit card company how to dispute the charge. If they told you it was ESC-less, that's one thing. But they told you it had it and didn't. It sounds like you were misled. Nothing about being misled in the Tower S&D terms of sale.

Let us know how it turns out.

[CalmCyclone]

Mishap -

I bought an LRP IPC Super Sport ESC recently and tried it in my Evader. It really improved the performance of the truck. It's faster than before, and even with my cheap 1500mAh packs the runtime increased a bit.

Of course that was just a test and the crappy stock ESC is going back into the Evader when I finish my Matt Francis XXX-T.


CalmCyclone
R/C veteran, R/C racing newbie

[kitty]

JoeUSA 1, jep_rc, pudder, TeamMishap:
Thanks a bunch for your support and advice, guys :)
Right after I post this I will be calling Tower and this time I'm asking for a supervisor. As I mentioned, the listing was marked "N-A" meaning new, nothing missing. Below the listing it said "repair parts included." It was listed as a Duratrax EP ST/wESC, so at least I have that going for me. Good idea on the credit card part, Mishap (loved your PM about your nick, btw heh). If I can't get positive results from a phone call, I will seriously consider doing that. As for it being used, nope. I inspected it very closely. The little foamy donuts between stuff were totally unsoiled - a good indication to me that it hadn't been used. I also inspected it closely for scratches or any mars, but there were none.
When I spoke to one of their sales people early on, I asked a lot of questions and mentioned I figured someone dropped a palette of them or something. My best friend used to be a trucker so I know the rules on stuff like that when unloading. If something gets damaged, they write off the entire palette as damaged goods. Seeing that mine came with only the styrofoam end pieces, I figured it probably got stabbed by a forklift or something. There was a small hole in the side of the box. That could explain the missing packaging. When I mentioned that thought to the sales gal, she said that probably was the case but that they were new, as listed.

As for the slippage, I re-read through a lot of posts in this section and noticed one or two guys mentioned that they keep their diffs pretty tight because of that.
Now, about the noise it makes. You guys are totally cool when it comes to helping and describing what noises stuff makes hehehe
The noise sounds more of a whining noise. At first it sounded like something electrical was causing it but I had viewed the video about seven times, so I figured it was normal. But the slippage was way too much for my comfort. My best friend and another friend are coming over in a bit with their E-Maxxes. I'm gonna get out the riding lawn mower and drop it all the way down to make a little track in my back yard. My little Evader doesn't handle grass very well because it's so light and those pin spike tires just spin on grass higher than an inch or so. So I'm going to plow the field, so to speak, in hopes of making a temporary track for us to play on. No biggie on the grass - it's crap grass (no St Augustine or anything like that out back). If we had time, I'd move some dirt from my former raised garden and make a few jumps or some whoops.
At any rate, I'm not gonna sweat it if the gears are toast. The parts are way cheap and at least one LHS sells replacements. In addition to the Rooster reversible, I bought a few pinion and spur gears with help from my best friend and the guy at the LHS. We drove all the way across town to get there because their north location bites as far as help goes. You can pretty much guess which large conglomerate chain of hobby shops it is ;) The spurs and pinions are aftermarket parts and are tougher; they are supposed to fit. If the screw holes are too small, no problem - I have a Dremel :D As you probably can tell, I'm considerably more confident in what I'm doing now and my attitude has changed. Small parts like gears are cheap. I'm planning on getting a parts box and stocking up on spares, as well as some new wheels and tires (Clawz wheels and Dirt Hawg II tires - yes, I've been reading the forums for a while heh) Also on the agenda is a better motor. I've been pondering either a P2K2 Copperhead Pro or a Chameleon Pro (can't remember if it's a II or not). I won't be buying the motor from Tower because I want to wait until the LHS gets more in so I can browse through them and check the specs on them and pick the best one I can find. With tower, it's "like a box of chock-lits," yaknow?

All that said, I'm off to make that phone call and if I get the same attitude as before, it's off to BizRate for a scouring commentary and considerating calling my credit card provider.

Thanks SO much you guys! As I mentioned, I've been reading the forum for a while now. I've posted a few times, but like to read what's going on and have developed a sense of respect for a number of you guys. Pudder, you're so right - crying is much better than throwing things (though the latter can be cathartic sometimes too hehehe), but no way am I gonna throw my new Evader! I have a Nikko that I did that with and it was not fun fixing the steering "knuckle" on it (if that's what you can call their version of one). It's really nice to see that some of you guys have that "softer side" but are far from being wussies. Guys like y'all make great fathers. I know, because my daddy was like that. He cried a few times in his life, but was a tough SOB otherwise hehe

Have a great day, bro's! For me it's time to go take names and kick some butt and play with my new truckster. I bought it for my birthday and dangit, I plan to play with it on my b-day! Yup. Big 3-0 even heh

hugs!
k

[kitty]

Forgot a few things before...
Peak Performance PowerMaxx battery packs are pretty good for non-matched sets and are not overly expensive. I bought four pairs (cheaper in pairs), two sets for me and two for my best friend. He has already broken his in and gets great run times in his E-Maxx. We bought the 2400 mAH ones and they were only $10 more per pair than the others we were looking at ($40 a pair - not bad at all).
Also, the MRC Super Brain charger, though it doesn't have an internal fan and is kinda boxy, does a great job charging packs. It doesn't seem to need an internal fan because it stays cool even after four packs and the packs don't get really warm like they do on my best friend's Intellipeak Dual.
If any of you are looking for a good deal on battery packs, check out the ones we bought. Ten bucks more for a pair compared to a pair of lower-mAH Piranhas is worth it.

Later, guys!

[pudder]

Always glad to help out!

As far as motors go, the trinity motors are excellent, and I recently bought a Reedy MVP stocker. I think I might even like it better than my previous P2k 2's (and pro), but it does run at a higher temp, you will want to gear like 1 or 2 teeth lower than with the Trinity P2k 2 or p2k. :)

[JoeUSA 1]

the right three are mine

[TeamMishap]

Here's my plug for the Chameleon II Pro. No experience with the P2K2 though. I know the Chammy rips sod off the park lawn though.

Don't worry about the big 3-0. I've survived two years past it so far :) Bike accidents and all.

Ordering some of those PP 2400 pairs you were talking about. Minds well since I have to order damned hinge pins anyway

[jep_rc]

Kitty -

Good luck on your follow-up with Tower. I have found if you are firm yet polite, Tower customer service is usually very responsive and helpful. Try this approach first before you go off on them.

Everyone -
I just want to put my 2 cents in about Tower Scratch and Dent. Do not be afraid to try ordering from it, but use the 800 number to order by phone. The phone sales people have additional notes about each specific S&D item and can be very helpful in letting you know *exactly* what you are getting. I have gotten some great deals from S&D. I use an Intellipulse TwinPulse charger every weekend that I picked up from S&D for $29 bucks (it's $69 retail). It only had a scratch down the front.

Jep
Jep-R/C Products (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/)

[kitty]

Pudder & TeamMishap: Thanks for the input on motors!

JoeUSA: Nice collection! What kinda monster truck is that on the right and what body is on it? Looks nice! It must be great to have dirt to play on. We're still looking for places around here that are dirt but without huge rocks. I already wore out the soft pin spike rear tires on my truck hehehe (gawd help me I love power slides!) so I'll be ordering some Dirt Hawgs later tonight.

jep_rc: I'm glad you have had good luck with Tower's S&D stuff. The thing is, I did call them prior to ordering. The first gal was really nice and knew her stuff. The second one had the personality of a tree stump. First call to customer service was not pleasant. I know it's more like a guy to say something like this, but she sure seemed to be OTR or something. :eek:

I did reach some resolve with a supervisor at Tower. That is, after about 30 or so minutes of going back and forth. She tried to offer me a $10 "inconvenience credit" or go ahead and return the truck even though it was used. I saw no reason to return it, as I've already sunk more money into it. Plus, why pay $40 more for the same truck (non-S&D sale) just to have another one just like it, but with the crappy stock ESC? Screw that. She even tried to convince me that mine wasn't an RTR, but when she went back to look it up again, decided she couldn't BS her way out of that one. Then she tried to convince me that it should have come with a mechanical speed control. Errrr! Wrong-o, chicklet! To my knowledge, the Evader has never come with a MSC. It really tried my patience for sure. I was nice in spite of thinking "don't whizz on my shoes and tell me it's raining."

In the end, we settled on a $20 "inconvenience" credit. Oh well, it'll go towards some new tires and I got a $50 rent credit from my mum, so there are my new wheels and a few other goodies too hehehe I'm still trying to decide between the 6-spoke Clawz and the 3-spoke Talonz. I love the Talonz but I don't see how a 3-spoker is going to handle "my particular racing style" (read: I sometimes hit objects while sliding sideways). But they are guaranteed so I'm leaning towards the Talonz.

Now, about motors... I've narrowed it down to the Trinity line:
P2K Copperhead Pro, P2K2 Pro, or Chameleon 2 Pro. I figure why not pay the extra $3-4 for the pro versions. I've looked at the specs for each over and over again and the only real difference I can see is that the P2K Pro is rebuildable and the Chameleon 2 Pro is rebuildable and also has bearings instead of bushings. Oops, I forgot the Chameleon is a 19-turn and the other two are 27-turn.

Sooooo, input please! I trust you guys because y'all seem to have experience with such things and none of you get into whizzin' contests over whose vehicle/motor/top speed, etc is best. I see way too much of that in other forums.

Oh yeah, brushes...all three motors use lay-down brushes. I was reading a thread in another forum earlier about which brushes are better - copper or silver. Seems everyone is an expert, but one side says copper and the other says silver. I'd like to use brushes that won't cause me to need to have the comm turned once a month.

And lastly... yah I know my messages are novelettes heh Regarding the diff, I understand that running it without slip will cause the gears to wear faster. Which gears are the ones that wear the most? Replacements seem pretty cheap so I may say to heck with it and run it tight all the time. I hate slippage, especially after playing with my best friend's E-Maxx and doing wheelies with it. Dang that's fun! Do any of you know of alternative gear boxes that would work and suit my desires? I'm not too concerned with wearing out the 'bones because I'm also eyeing a set of MIP CVDs. I'm watching a thread on those because the concensus seems to be that the XXT ones are an exact fit.

Now if Duratrax had made these darned trucks with adjustable body mounts so we could use any body we want on them. I have plans to fab my own so I can put an HPI Baja body on mine. After a real girly paint job, that is ;)

Sorry this was so long of a post. I think y'all are getting used to them though hehehe Once I get things worked out, I'm sure they won't be so long, though.

Thanks again, guys!

ps - there must be a seriously short timeout on this board. I got the "gotta log in again" three times tonight and that was on shorter posts!

[jep_rc]

Hi Kitty,

Jeesh, I haven't done this much reading since high school English :) You packed a lot of questions in there. I will hit a few, and I am sure others will pick up where I left off.

Regarding motors: Get a good rebuildable stock if you want to race stock class. If not then get a good rebuildable mod motor with adjustable timing - you will have more flexibility and will be able to go *very* fast when you want to. There will be many opinions here. I run a Trinity Speed Gems Pro 2 Kobal 13T double in mine and love it. The P-94 style brushes seem to last a long time and the comm does not need cutting very often (if you keep the timing conservative, down near 5 degrees).

Regarding Diff and Slip: I am not sure I follow your question, because you only mention the diff slippage, but do not mention the actual slipper clutch. You do realize we are taking about two seperate parts - right? You adjust the diff by slipping out the right rear dogbone and tightening the hex screw in the outdrive. You adjust the slipper clutch by adjusting the lock-nut on the spur gear shaft (pop off the little plug from the gear cover).

You never want the diff itself to slip - never ever. You always want at least a little slip in the slipper clutch, but if you run only flat, on-road racing, you can get away with the slipper being pretty tight. If you do big jumps, set it to slip for a foot or two on hard acceleration. This will be even more important when you get a mod motor. It is not an issue with the gears wearing faster, it is that if you have no slip, you will break teeth off of gears on landing, and you will quickly get tired of watching others race while you tear apart your tranny.

Jep

PS. I just noticed you are from Austin - great city. I used to love hanging out on 6th street. A good friend of mine lives on Lake Travis.

[pudder]

Jep is right on the diff slipage. You NEVER want to let it slip, that is an rc no-no! That is what the slipper is for. I was on DuraTrax's site the other day and wow, do they ever have some sexy upgrades for the Evader! If I don't sell mine, I'll probably get it going again since it does only need one part.

Gears: The AE T3/B3 idler gear will fit in place of your Evader idler gear. though it is one tooth smaller than the Evader one, you may want to just buy the stock one again since I wasnt going too hard on mine because I was racing carpet.

Motors: If you are planning on racing, you should get one of the stock motors, I think the p2k 2 Pro is the trinity ticket. And you are smart for buying the pro, you get dyno results, broken in bushings, good brushes and trued comm.

Body Posts: I'm sure if you know how, you could easily rig up some long body posts for a new body. I have a little picture in my mind right now :)

Rims: Just a little something about the rims you want to get, for offroad, chrome rims aren't such a wise decision of you're going to beat on them. The chrome will flake off of the sides. A soloution? You could buy the white ones and die them a color or just leave them white. :)

[jep_rc]

Re Rims: I have found the Losi XXXT colored rims to be the best for the Evader for all around bashing and racing (especially off-road). They are light weight and very strong. These are my favorites.

I agree - chrome rims are sexy, but I haven't seen one yet that didn't chip or flake - especially on an off-road truck.

[pudder]

I have use chrome rims for onroad on my trucks, I still do get the odd chip. I even find them a bit weaker since I have cracked one somehow?!

My trophy winning T3 wearing some chrome rims. :)

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC00727_sm.JPG

[jep_rc]

Nice lookin ride Pudder!
Jep

[enemy_spike]

im going to put a D5 in my evader and put the new nitro chassis on it, for strength, but it will still need hop-ups which ones should i get??

[k_sw31]

kyle, the nitro chassis might not fit, cuz of the transverse mounted tranny, u could try it though.

[kitty]

Motors: I had it narrowed down to between the P2K2 and Chameleon, but after reading a few posts in the other Electric forum, I'm going to have to do more research. I won't be doing any "real" racing, so the only limitation I have is on the Rooster ESC. I'm going to check out the ones that use the P94 endbell and brushes.

Diff & Slip: jep, I'm glad you brought that up about clutch vs diff. I was referring to diff slippage. According to the directions, I'm supposed to tighten it down just snug, then back it off 1/8 of a turn, but 1/8 turn and mine slips (that annoying whine) for far more than the recommended 2'. Right now I'm playing mostly on asphalt (except for the trips through the grass), as I don't have any suitable dirt to drive on around here. I don't race on grass because the darned thing is way too low to get any traction whatsoever.

As for clutch slippage, I can't tell whether I'm adjusting it correctly or not. The instructions say to hold the left rear wheel while tightening it and do so until it's snug. The problem is, the friggin diff slips at the same time. I'm wondering if maybe mine came a bit too lose from the factory and now one of the diff gears is a bit too worn. Any suggestions as to which one that may be?

Wheels: I'd love to buy the white dyeable ones, but I can't find them anywhere. I'm looking at the RPM Talonz or Clawz. Tower only has them in chrome, though. I know my axle diameter is 3/16, so if anyone knows of what other cars/trucks use the same wheels, please let me know. So far, I've only found that the wheels that fit the Losi XXT will also fit my Evader. I just re-read the replies again and noticed that jep_rc mentioned that the XXXT wheels will fit. Sweet! That just expanded my choices heh

Notes to individuals:
jep_rc - I don't care much for the lake these days. Too damn many people out there, especially drunks in speedboats or on jet skis. But 6th street is great. I call it "Freak Show Alley" because the tourists love to go down there and gawk at those of us who are "decorated" heh
pudder - thanks for the mention about the idler gear retro-fit. How did you learn so much? You must keep a list of compatible parts or something. I want a copy if you do! ;) ps - Sweet looking little T3 you have there!

Special thanks to pudder, jep_rc, TeamMishap and JoeUSA for all your help and enduring my long posts. I think this one is much shorter. I hope. heh

[kitty]

Holy cow patties! That last post took me a few minutes to write and it didn't time out on me! They must have fixed whatever the problem was. Woo hoo!

[Prinler]

HEy guys... its been awhile... Alright.... one thing that i have found that helps more then anything at all is.... The losi Bumper... It fits perfectly.. and is cheep. Jep you got a link? I dont remember it. Any hoot . It has saved me more then 50 times where i know i would have broken yet another bulkhead... the front hinge brace is also one well worth it upgrade.... Now on the the questions... I hear weird noise comming from my dif. like if i turn one wheele by hand... it isnt smooth... almost like the barrings are all messed up.... When i losen it up it is smooth as silk. When i tighten it down so it barly moves it does the weird noise yet again. What is up?

Oh BTW I own 2 Scratched and dent evaders... both seems to have trani problems.

[jep_rc]

Pinler -

Here is the link. It is made by RPM. I bought mine at Tower Hobbies. It fits the Evader with no mods required - plug and play.

RPM XXT Cushioned Bumper (http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/losi/chassis.htm#Cushioned)

Jep

[pudder]

Originally posted by k_sw31
kyle, the nitro chassis might not fit, cuz of the transverse mounted tranny, u could try it though.

You may encounter many issues when trying to use this chassis. It would probably be better to get a sheet of aluminum and make templates for the screws, and make your chassis that way. Know what an easy way to get aluminum is?; You know those things called "road signs"? They are made out of I think it is 2-3mm aluminum, good stuff, just take a sign and cut your piece out. To take the flourescent tape off, I just heated up the sign with my heat gun and it makes the tape glue all runny, took a putty knife and scraped it on. I was left with some white sticky glue, which I just sanded off. :) It is a lot of work, but it is free, and when you live in the country like I do, it is easy to get away with. ;)

[Aluma]

if you're lookin for nice wheels go check out HPI's stuff. I have the
F5 gunmetal wheels on my evader...very nice, PLUS they widen the evader by 1-2 inches, and they're available in white, gold , silver and gunmetal. you can also use anything else that might fit the nitro rush.:cool:

[JoeUSA 1]

the big truck in the last picture is a USA-1, i own both, electric and nitro, as for the body, i dont know. my neighbor got with a truck on ebay and gave it to me for bashing because the USA body is to nice to bash with(chrome)

[k_sw31]

thats an, interesting method pudder. :D :rolleyes:

[Grubb]

I just installed a 17X1 speedgems 2 mod in my evader.....
It's like twice as fast now!!! I think I accually gained a little run time as well. The stock motor must not be very efficient, or the stock gearing is a little to tall.

[k_sw31]

i noticed that the 19x2 speed gem is just as fast or faster, has more torque, and better runtime. But the 17 is pretty good too.

[jep_rc]

An interesting note about the Photon. After I got my Kobal 13T, I decided to experiment with the Photon. Here is what I did:

1) Bought a ball bearing upgrade kit from RC_Boyz on eBay.
2) Carefully pry'd up the tabs, removed the end-bell, and replaced both bushings with bearings.
3) Took the dremel tool to the end-bell and made new indexing slots that increased the timing by about 5 more degrees (this was a bit tricky but do-able).
4) Re-cut the comm, assembled everything and pressed the tabs down tight.

This really livened up the old Photon, it actualy acts more like a real 19T motor now. Not going to win any A-Mains with it, but great for bashing.

Jep

[pudder]

Originally posted by Aluma
if you're lookin for nice wheels go check out HPI's stuff. I have the
F5 gunmetal wheels on my evader...very nice, PLUS they widen the evader by 1-2 inches, and they're available in white, gold , silver and gunmetal. you can also use anything else that might fit the nitro rush.:cool:

Are you talking about the Five spoke superstar HPI RIms. I have some of those on my T3 in the rear, really wide! I think the next rims I'll be getting for offroad will be next spring, probably will get those nice looking blue duratrax rims. :)

[enemy_spike]

Originally posted by pudder


Are you talking about the Five spoke superstar HPI RIms. I have some of those on my T3 in the rear, really wide! I think the next rims I'll be getting for offroad will be next spring, probably will get those nice looking blue duratrax rims. :)

DO NOT i reapeat DO NOT get durtrax rims, the ones on my evader are falling apart with the original motor in it :mad:

[jep_rc]

I tend to agree with Spike. The Duratrax rims seem to crack and chip easily. Again, I would recommend the XXX-T (triple-XT) rims, they hold up a lot better for me.

Jep

[enemy_spike]

im right im right wooohoo

[enemy_spike]

Originally posted by enemy_spike
im right im right wooohoo

im also a bit immature lol

[k_sw31]

that you are...

hey guys, here some pics of spike's evader in action :D

foregive our photography. ;)

[enemy_spike]

Originally posted by pudder


You may encounter many issues when trying to use this chassis. It would probably be better to get a sheet of aluminum and make templates for the screws, and make your chassis that way. Know what an easy way to get aluminum is?; You know those things called "road signs"? They are made out of I think it is 2-3mm aluminum, good stuff, just take a sign and cut your piece out. To take the flourescent tape off, I just heated up the sign with my heat gun and it makes the tape glue all runny, took a putty knife and scraped it on. I was left with some white sticky glue, which I just sanded off. :) It is a lot of work, but it is free, and when you live in the country like I do, it is easy to get away with. ;)

i should try that i have one in my room lol

[k_sw31]

.

[k_sw31]

look. from this to

[k_sw31]

this. ah, the power of cheese, i mean a 15x4. lol:p

[enemy_spike]

thats with a speed gems 15 turn quad in it

[enemy_spike]

pizza cutter
lol

[k_sw31]

theres this one too.

[Prinler]

I want to post some movies.... I took some on a Really nice Sony DV cam. Me And my buddies Emaxx. Had him in the middle of a dubble.. hehe jumping a E-Maxx woot. Anyway.. anyone know?

[TeamMishap]

Tower has these for $100. They look like a great ESC.

.0041 Ohm Resistance (lower than the Rooster)
2500Hz freq
No motor limit

Punchy amp outputs.

Is the Super Rooster worth $20 more? It handles up to 10 cells and has half the resistance at .002. I don't think I'll be using the dual motor ability in my Evader. LOL.

[CalmCyclone]

Mishap-

I'd recommend the DuraTrax IntelliSpeed 8T Pro ESC for $88 at Tower. I know, it's not a Novak or LRP, but it looks like it kicks butt over the two you listed.

I wish I'd have known about this one before I got my LRP IPC Super Sport for $75 - I'd have paid $13 more for a much better ESC.


CalmCyclone
R/C veteran, R/C racing newbie

[jep_rc]

Hi Cyclone and Mishap,

I have no personal experience with them at all, but there are a couple of posters on an ESC thread on HobbyTalk forum that have had problems with the Intellispeed ESC's - in particular the 8T one. I would approach with caution.

I would love to hear opinions from any users over here as well.

Here is a link to the HobbyTalk Thread:
ESC Upgrade (http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?s=&threadid=25296&highlight=IntelliSpeed)

Jep

[CalmCyclone]

lol!

One set-up button problem and one "almost every one has failed" problem. That must mean they're ALL bad!

Someone must have had a problem with their Novak ESC's set-up button. That other problem could be one bad shipment or box. Besides, it wasn't model-specific. They could've had problems with the cheapest model.

Mishap-
Try the 8T and see. If you have a problem, return it and get the Novak. Then come and post the horrible problems you had with the IntelliSpeed.


CalmCyclone
R/C veteran, R/C racing newbie

[Aluma]

C'mon, who'd be dumb enough to buy an intellispeed? They're just evader sprint ESC's with a nicer color and sticker.... and you all know how long sprints last... my evader's sprint esc lasted 6 runs on a old stock motor and 1500 pack.... If you want a good esc try AE or NOVAK.

i have a quantum sport esc on my evader now...NO problems...and i can use it for my micro if i ever ditch the evader. :D

[pudder]

Originally posted by k_sw31
look. from this to

Dude, that's hard on your diff...

[k_sw31]

how? Yes, i am pretty ignorant, at least about diffs any wyas

[TeamMishap]

I thought about the DTX Ispeed. It has a .0002 ohm resistance (per Duratrax), pumps high amps, but only has a 1000MHz freq whereas everyone else is 2500. I hadn't heard much about it, seems like no one here likes it. I'm still waivering on the ProReverse vs the SuperRooster. Once my claim comes in from the movers losing a bunch of my stuff I'm getting one or the other and a $17 cheapo Team Orion Rush 11 turn and getting stupid!

[pudder]

Those new DTX ESC's look alright, but after my experienceS with the sprint, I'm not toutching them. :(

I think I am gonna get my evader going again, all I need is a diff gear, think I am gonna race it for half a day this upcoming weekend.

[Prinler]

Hey Anyone Want to buy my other evader? I purchased it from tower. Then sent it back cause it was broken.... Bought another. Then they sent the old one back all fixed lol... any hoot anyone want my other green evader? hehe e-mail me :) hiimsteve@charter.net

[CalmCyclone]

Mishap-

The 8T Pro's frequency is adjustable all the way up to 15k+. It's not fixed like the others. No one here likes it because they've never tried it.

Give it a try. With the return policy you have NOTHING to lose.

And no ... I don't work for DuraTrax.


CalmCyclone
R/C veteran, R/C racing newbie

[jep_rc]

CalmCyclone -

I agree these new IntelliSpeed ESCs might be worth a try. They have received pretty good reviews from the R/C mags. I didn't mean to start a bunch of bashing with my post, I simply was referring to a couple of posters that apparently had problems (albeit exaggerated ones).

The forums tend to be one-sided in that you always hear the bad reports and experiences, but rarely the good ones.

In my prior post I invited any Intellispeed owners to post their experiences. I really would like to see some *facts* on these, as I have been interested in them for a while.

CalmCyclone - it isn't clear from your posts, do you own one, or know anyone who does?, or are you just recommending based on their published specs (which do look good for the $). Just curious. Thanks.

Jep

[CalmCyclone]

I'm going by the published specs, the great reviews they've received, and my own experience with the Evader and the included ESC.

Normal backyard bashing couldn't damage my Evader. Even jumps off of a picnic table onto the concrete patio didn't faze the truck. It took a full-speed head-on collision with a little girl on her bike to break something - and then it was just the front shock tower.

The ESC that came with the Evader has proven durable and reliable as well. I've had a Trinity P2k2 Pro stock motor and a Trinity Chameleon 2 Pro motor in my Evader (breaking them in before putting them in my XXX-T MFE), with no apparent damage to the ESC. The Photon Speed motor is still working great too.

I'm probably going to buy an 8T Pro in the next week or so.


CalmCyclone
R/C veteran, R/C racing newbie

[k_sw31]

pudder- can u please tell me how its hard on my diff? I thought it was part of a diff's natural action,

[Prinler]

Hey jep.... end your auction already man.... hehe I want my front hing pin brace :)

[jep_rc]

Originally posted by Prinler
Hey jep.... end your auction already man.... hehe I want my front hing pin brace :)

Hi Prinler -

Thanks for bidding. Only 5 hours left :D If you want one in a hurry, you can always pay full retail off the web-site ;)

I will post two more for auction after this one closes.

Jep
Jep-R/C Products (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/)

[jep_rc]

Originally posted by k_sw31
pudder- can u please tell me how its hard on my diff? I thought it was part of a diff's natural action,

Hi k-sw31,

The diff will naturally transfer power from one wheel to the other under normal driving conditions, but only during turns. Never in *normal* use is one wheel at a full stop while the other is at full throttle RPM's like in your photo. If you do this for too long, you will (at best) wear out the diff gear ball races prematurely or (at worst) melt the diff gear completely.

If you think about what the ball diff has to do to transfer the power to one wheel, you will see why. The plastic gear pushes against the balls which individually roll against the stationary outdrive, while causing the other outdrive to rotate. This creates a fair amount of friction against the ball races in the gear as the balls spin at high speed against the plastic. The worse case scenario is when one wheel is stationary and the other at full RPMs. The balls do not rotate at all when both wheels receive equal power.

Hope that makes sense.

Jep
Jep-R/C Products (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/)

[pudder]

Exactly, to simplify that, doing that a lot will help wear out your diff, and possibly melt you diff gear.

[k_sw31]

thanx, i'll be sure not to do that any more.

[TeamMishap]

Got the bed of my truck all painted. Just have to finalize the rest of the paint scheme and do it. Should look pretty good for a first and last time painting a body.

[k_sw31]

sorry about your diff dude :rolleyes:

[rookie12]

i like the blue too but it doesnt matter cuz im gettin a proline body
and im building my own track to race on and im only 13

[rookie12]

i like the blue too but it doesnt matter cuz im gettin a proline body
and im building my own track to race on and im only

[rookie12]

Originally posted by rc-dude
Well, soory if this has been asked before, I didn't feel like reading the whole thread. IS the chasis really got a lot of flex like r/c car action said? If so how much? Can you grab the front and back and bend the chasis? Another question, do you think that peo-lines chevy rustler body will fit it ok?







a body for a losi xxxt fits better

[rookie12]

Originally posted by ameittunen
here are some pics with my evader jumping with my new speed gem 19t double motor.






ok but whyd u do this inside did u break anything in ur house cuz im pretty sure u didnt mess the truck up
as u can tell im a kid im 13

[rookie12]

Originally posted by offroader
you just call Duratrax and tell them what broke and what hobby shop you got it at and they send the parts? Do they send them to your house or to the hobby shop?




do u know if the suspension is covered by the warranty cuz i broke my right front shock last night in my yard

[rookie12]

Originally posted by jdm3849
stop it!, your making me want to drive my evader!:D




not a good idea cuz the suspension will bottom out and possibly break the shock i learned that the hard way

[rookie12]

Originally posted by pudder
Hello,

Thank you for your recent e-mail.

There are no plans for stiffer plastic optional parts for the Evader at this point in time that I am aware of. There are some aluminum optional parts coming out for the Evader in the future, but I do not have a date for when they will be available. I can provide a list of what I know of currently.

DTXC6613 FRONT BRACE ALUMINUM BLUE EVST
DTXC6614 FRONT BRACE ALUMINUM PURP EVST
DTXC8071 HUB REAR ALUMINUM BLU (2) EVST
DTXC8072 HUB REAR ALUMINUM PRP (2) EVST
DTXC8221 KNUCKLE ARM ALU BLU (2) EVST
DTXC8222 KNUCKLE ARM ALU PRP (2) EVST
DTXC6294 BATTERY STRAP ALUM BLUE EVST
DTXC6295 BATTERY STRAP ALUM PURPLE EVST
DTXC8032 HUB CARRIERS ALUM BLU (2) EVST
DTXC8033 HUB CARRIERS ALUM PRP (2) EVST
DTXC9640 TRANS BRACE RE ALUM BLUE EVST
DTXC9641 TRANS BRACE RE ALUM PURPL EVST

We do not sell retail, however you could contact Tower Hobbies @ 1-800-637-6050, or (217)398-3636.
They have a full inventory of all our products, and can ship anywhere in the world.
They may be able to back order these for you as well.
If you prefer you can visit the web site
www.towerhobbies.com

Hope this answers your questions

Sincerely,
Phil
Product Support


This is weird because I swear the Product Developer Manager told me that they were thinking of making some hard plastic parts.

-mike






ok but does the one year warranty cover the suspension cuz i broke my right front shock last night

[k_sw31]

as u can tell im a kid im 13


Hey, so am i, welcome to the club.

[kitty]

rookie, look at the parts list that came with your truck. If you don't have one, there's a PDF file on the Duratrax site. It'll show which parts are covered under the Stress-Tech warranty. If I recall correctly, shocks are not covered, but only plastic parts.

On another subject, a lot of you guys keep mentioning a diff gear. Which gear in particular are y'all referring to? I am guessing the idler gear, as pudder mentioned in a previous post that the B3 gear will fit the Evader gear box, except it has one fewer teeth.

[jep_rc]

Kitty -

When we talk about the "diff gear", we are talking about the gear in between the outdrives that holds the 3/32" steel balls. On the exploded view it is:

DTXC7402 ....Differential Gear......18 x1pc

When we talk about the "idler gear", we are talking about:

DTXC8080 ...Idler Gear and Shaft.....17,89 x1pc

For a while, everyone was asking about replacement gears for the Evader tranny. I never found any direct replacements, but here is the info I gathered on pitch and numbers of teeth of top-shaft, idlers, and diff gears.

Evader Top Shaft (DTXC9665) (key#83)
48 pitch, 18 teeth
5mm x 10mm bearings

IDLER GEARS
Evader Idler Gear (DTXC8080) (key#17)
48 pitch, 29 teeth
5mm x 10mm bearings

B2 Nylon Idler Gear (ASC 9360)
48 pitch, 28 teeth
3/16 x 3/8 bearings

Traxxas Aluminum Idler Gear (1996X)
48 pitch, 30 teeth
5mm x 10mm bearings

HGI B2 precision Delrin Idler Gear (1527)
48 pitch, 28 teeth
3/16 x 3/8 bearings

DIFF GEARS
Evader Diff Gear (DTXC7402) (key#18)
48 pitch, 48 teeth
5mm x 9mm bearings

B2 Diff Gear (ASC 9365)
48 pitch, 48 teeth
5/32 x 5/16 bearings

RC10/T Diff Gear (ASC 6580)
48 pitch, 45 teeth

GT Diff Gear (ASC 7664)
48 pitch, 52 teeth

HGI RC10/T Alloy Diff Gear (1845)
48 pitch, 45 teeth

HGI XX Alloy Diff Gear (1846)
48 pitch, ?? teeth
5mm x 8mm bearings

HGI XXT Alloy Diff Gear (1847)
48 pitch, 46 teeth

HGI B2 Alloy Diff Gear (1848)
48 pitch, 49 teeth
5/32 x 5/16

HGI GT/T2 Alloy Diff Gear (1852)
48 pitch, 52 teeth

Jep
Jep-R/C Products (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/)

[Prinler]

oK I TOOK APART MY diff and it doesnt work anymore. I put it back togeather the same way i took it apart. Even looked at the exploded view. The parts i need were on my other ST. Everytihng is perfect and cle