Associated RC10T3 v1.0

[k_sw31]

Here's the stuff I made earlier, I dont need the huge bumper at all, but hey, it looks funny. On the other hand, I also made an aluminum battery strap. It looks pretty cool, now If i could only anodize it blue :)

[pudder]

Interesting....

I got a Traxxas Stampede to bash around with. :) Stock with a 2400 and ESC, it flies!

[Crashmaxx]

LOL, but I guess imitation is greatest form of flattery. So thanks for the compliment.:D

Yours looks good but you should smooth the edges and polish it up, then it will look really sweet.

[k_sw31]

I dont think I will use the bumper much, but the battery strap is really cool :cool:

Tomorrow I'll do some polishing etc. and really make it look snazzy ;) :p


Crashmaxx- How are you auctions on ebay doing??

[Crashmaxx]

Well, I am sorry, but I decieded not to get a GT.:( My dad convinced me I would be better off with a new engine for my buggy. I think you should put your GT on ebay, but I would take some better pics first. Spray some WD-40 on it, the tires mostly and get a lot of really good pics, put them all on the auction and make sure a lot of ppl can see it and you should get at least $200.

[k_sw31]

Thats fine. I have been meaning to put it up for auction, but i have been really lazy aobut it.

[jdm3849]

I am planning on getting a FT T3 tommorrow from my track for $70 with Lunsford rods and studs. It also has lots of RPM yellow stuff like bumpers, spring retainers etc. It comes with a body that has quite a few cracks in the front. This is a good deal right?? Pudder, do you know if the crappy sprint esc will fit in there good temperarily (sp)? It is missing a a battery bar and servo mounts, will mounts from a X-NT or Evader fit in the T3 (not permenantly)?
Do you still think its a good deal? It has holeshot's and edges on velocity wheels. May need a Diff. rebuild but it does'nt matter since I will only race a few times over the winter.

-Mike

[k_sw31]

WHOLY GOD THATS A GOOD DEAL!!!!!!!!! :eek: :eek: :D (in my opinion anyways)

IF that truck is in half decent shape, it sounds like a great deal. Consider that you'll only need to put around 30 $$ to fix it up (new servo mounts, etc.) Sounds like a great deal to me :)

Edit: Oh yea, for a battery strap, make an aluminum one your self if you have an accessible shop and some aluminum. It only takes an hour or less, looks great, and is a very functional heatsink. (check my pick above :D)

[ViperStrike]

You dont even need servo mounts
just use a good amount of servo tape.

Its called servo tape for a reason
:D

I've yet to see an ESC that didnt fit in a T3
you just have to turn them till they fit.

[k_sw31]

Through my micro rs4, I've learned that servo tape SUCKS to secure servos because if there's any leverage put on it, the tape breaks free. ITs really easy to make servo mounts also (with aluminun)


Pretty much any esc can fit if it cant fit on its side, then throw it on the shock tower :)

[ViperStrike]

the servo mount in the T3 does not allow any movement.
its a perfect fit.

[Crashmaxx]

k_sw31- Did you sell your GT yet? I am still thinking about a GT. I don't know if I should get a new engine for my Ultra MBX or get a GT. Your truck still looks good, but I am looking around.

[k_sw31]

Crashmaxx- My GT is still availible :) I have been thinking about doing an ebay auction, but i'm waiting for my dad to make a paypal account (i have been waiting 4 months for him to do that :rolleyes: )

[pudder]

JDM- Everything sounds fine, I say that is a hell of a deal, even if the body is crap. You will like the truck, it is extremely stong. Other servo mounts should work, though the ones that came with the T3 might be a bit lower profile, try them out though it should be fine. :) The sprint ESC will work too, and the chassis has lots of room for mounting things on.

[jdm3849]

I got the T3 yesterday, It is really cool. I got a battery strap from my friend and a motor cover. It was missing some e-clips so I bought those too. The body is such a mess, but the paint job is good. My friend gave me his RTR body just so I have one that won't fall to pieces. The evader mounts worked and so did the losi's. I did'nt have the right servo arm to fit on my hitec 645mg so I had to put a JR servo in there for a while. Even though the gearing is the same (externally) the AE seems to be much quicker off the line. I'm in love already :D . There is a short steep hill that goes down to a frozen through pond by my friends house, I bombed it and when I got to the ice I started spinning uncontrollobly (sp!) towards a large rock, well I hit it right on the nose and the RPM bumper got the kickup part broken off. How much will it cost for a new one? I still am happy because with my evader i would have broken at least 3-4 pieces. I am also not sure if it is a FT because the front nose plate thing that is metal is black, all the other stuff is blue though. I don't think the axels are blue either. But I am pretty sure the parts are graphite because they are more of a faded black look. Do you think it is just a team edition or something with almost all the hop ups? Or he downgraded the broken parts?

Thanks

-Mike

[k_sw31]

WAit, so you broke the front kick up plate off? I think tohse are only 10$$ I'd like to see a pick of that :)

[pudder]

No it is not FT. FT comes with blue motor plate, rear chassis plate and front kickup, also blue titanium turnbuckles.

[k_sw31]

Ya, i'd say it is the team edition, does it have bearing and cvd's?

[jdm3849]

I broke the kickup on the bumper off, not anything thats attatched to the chassis.

It does have a blue motor plate and blue rear chassis plate. The only thing that is not FT is the front metal piece. The screws are blue, shocks are FT, it has shiny cvd's. Oh yea, the other thing that is not FT is the turnbuckles and studs. They are lunsford! They are on RPM superduty ballcups.


don't have a digital camera

[k_sw31]

Must be a ft then, ho probably broke it and bought a black one or soemthing.

[jdm3849]

Probobly, it does have bearings I forgot to say. I bet your right because the front nose plate is all black with almost no scratches while the back is almost all silver underneath from rubbing the ground.

[pudder]

Who really knows what it is. I don't see why someone would buy lundsford turbbuckes and shiny CVD's when the FT comes with blue titanium and black CVD's. Either way it sounds good. :)

[k_sw31]

NOw its just as good or better than a FT :p

[GA Maxx]

just wasted my t3, caused loadsa damage, broke shock tower, shock shaft, 2 turnbuckles, bumper, a-arm, rear chassis brace, rear shock tower, front chassis brace, kick up plate so im afraid its bye bye associated
Hello duratrax

[jdm3849]

Duratrax? ha! I have an evader and a 5 mph crash would break more stuff on it than you just did. Did you get it run over by a car?

[k_sw31]

HOw'd ya do all that? Even I couldn't manage that much in one crash. (DURATRAX SUCKS COMPARED WITH AE)

[pudder]

Ya, I don't know why you hate AE, no offence to DuraTrax, but the Evader is much weaker than a T3.

[GA Maxx]

i think it was because the parts were old etc, but its not worth replacing it all, im getting an evader but that will probabley be finished in titanium:D

[jdm3849]

You will have to make custom parts if you want titanium, it will be a pain in the arse. I would just go losi if I were you! Their parts are much stronger and there is more availability of them. When you live in the UK you want a car that wont break because it will be harder to find parts than in america. Also, if your evader is going to be finished in "titanium" you must have alot of money, so why not get a good truck?

If i send my RPM bumper to RPM will I get a new one for free?

[ViperStrike]

If it broke then yes you should get a new one.

[GA Maxx]

Originally posted by jdm3849
You will have to make custom parts if you want titanium, it will be a pain in the arse. I would just go losi if I were you! Their parts are much stronger and there is more availability of them. When you live in the UK you want a car that wont break because it will be harder to find parts than in america. Also, if your evader is going to be finished in "titanium" you must have alot of money, so why not get a good truck?

If i send my RPM bumper to RPM will I get a new one for free?

a losi is nearere $450 usd here!!

parts are easy and cheap for duratrax

[jdm3849]

You pay for what you get.


Viper:OK, yes it did break

[ViperStrike]

I read the RPM warranty and the only thing it does not cover is normal wear. they said bashing it and doing all the crazy things we love to do IS covered.

I wish my real car has that coverage.
:D

[GA Maxx]

Originally posted by jdm3849
You pay for what you get.


Viper:OK, yes it did break

i mnot paying $450 to go up and down my road tho lol

[jdm3849]

LOL, I just read that too.

[jdm3849]

Is'nt that what a pro 3 is for?

Don't get the evader if your just driving up and down the street. Why do you need all those hop ups if your just driving on the road?? I saw your posts in the evader forum.

[GA Maxx]

my pro 3 is used in door on a carpet surface only, i wouldnt wanna wreck the chassis ( custom cut and imported from Sweden)

i know what you guys are saying and im hankful but im getting an Evader as i think it will suit me. If i dont liek it its only $250 il ljust get something else

[jdm3849]

I would get a Used one because it would be even cheaper, you said you were putting in new electronics and parts so it would'nt matter if they did'nt work. If ya naa mean.



HELP!!!!!
When I go to the LHS in a few minutes what should I ask for? I need a new servo arm for my hitec 645mg servo so I can put it in the T3. What do you think the price will be? What should I ask for?

[GA Maxx]

645mgs are around $40

ha finding a used one in the Uk are you kidding?

iev found 2 shops that have al lspares and have the evader in so im fine

[jdm3849]

No, I have a 645MG servo but I need to know which servo arm I need to make the servo work in my T3!!!!! Hurry someone

[k_sw31]

Um, just bring the servo in and ask them for a servo arm for it, double check it when they pick it out. I think high torque servos have bigger servo arm thingies, but i think they are all the same size, so just ask for a servo arm for a high torque high tec or something, the key thing is to bring it in ;)

[GA Maxx]

sorry im tired its 00:16 here and i got school @ 08:20 lol

[k_sw31]

Ha, I have to go to school at 6:50, gatting up at 5:50 :(

Hey guys, I stopped by my LHS tonight, i picked up a new pseed gems pro 15x2, i dont have time tonight, but i'll give it a run tomorow,what gearing should I use, i was thinking 16/87?

[ViperStrike]

For a 15x2 you should use a 20/87 gearing.
you could probably get away with even 21/87.
16/87 will give it lots of punch but little top end.
on the plus side you will get good run times.

[jdm3849]

16/87 sounds great! but if you want some more speed get a 17 or 18 tooth, you will loose run time though. I had a 17x1 with 19/88 and it only got a little hot sometimes. 20 or 21/87 is way too high, thats what racers use with their stock motors. Do not go above 18 teeth, 18 teeth might even be too high. (with a 87 tooth spur)

[GoFaster]

With a 15X2, I use a 18/87 ratio. I like it. Not too hot.

:D

[ViperStrike]

Oh yeah I forget your not racing :D
I use 16/85 for my 10x3

[jdm3849]

I did'nt have to have brung my servo to the hobby shop because the servo horns only came in 4 different sizes and all of them were included in the package for $2.50. Thanks for the Help

I just took off the wheels on my truck and I noticed they have dynamite red seal bearings. Are those better than stock?

I have noticed that my servo is'nt centering back to its position well after I have turned to the right, could I have my travel % up to high on my radio which is causing the servo to turn to far making the servo saver slip? Know what I mean? Well it does have 133 oz of torque so I could see that happening.

[k_sw31]

About htose dynamite bearings, I found the seals stay on well, but they get gummed up really easy, and they are pretty high resistence compared to stock.

I'll reply in about half an hour to give you an update on the 15x2, I at first try 16/87, then I'll try 18/87 and see what i like :)

[ViperStrike]

I really like Team Bluestar bearings
they are sealed.
compared with other bearings I've used they are excellent.

[pudder]

I have had no issue with the stock bearings. Racer's Edge also has some nice teflon sealed bearings, I have some on my RC10 Graphite.

As for gearing, experiment a little. I would start out with 16/87.

[k_sw31]

I just ran it :)

Results were good, I got excelllent runtime on duratrax 1500 batts, especially compared to my team orion chrome modified 15x2, which had less torque but more rpms :)

I found that 16/87 was a little low, with the battery all the way forward, It would lift the tires off the ground a couple of inches :)
I'll try 18/87, should be about good :)

what brushes are supposed to come with speed gems pros? I thought they just came with standard copper shunt plain brushes, but this one had silver shunt brushes that were serrated :confused:

PS, advancing the timing to 20 degrees helped a lot! ;)

[pudder]

Check on www.teamtrinity.com

[ViperStrike]

Advance timing is twisting the endbell counter clock-wise right?
I never seem to get good results doing that.

[k_sw31]

Thats what advancing the timing is :)

THe reason why it provides a big boost is because the factory settings were on 0, which provides a lot less power for some reasons, but you need to make sure you advance it the right amount (its usually about 6.3 mm or 20 degrees)

It does look like they use the brushes I got, i guess I was thinking they used simlilar brushes to the speed gems 2 motors, except they are p-94 size, but i guess thy're not ;)

[Railman]

Viper,
To advance timing, rotate the endbell the OPOSITE the direction of rotation at the end bell end.
Joe

[k_sw31]

WHat do you mean by that??? Like you rotate then endbell opposite of the direction that the armature spins? I thought you just put it counter-clockwise?

[pudder]

Originally posted by Railman
Viper,
To advance timing, rotate the endbell the OPOSITE the direction of rotation at the end bell end.
Joe

Ya, that's a bit confusing...

[k_sw31]

Ah, I love this speed gems pro :)

I've figured the right gearing is is about 17/87 to 19/87 :) I havent had any problems with it after about 7-8 runs :) Run time is great as is power, I'd recommend it to any one :)

[ViperStrike]

Yeah the Speed gems pros are surprisingly good for such a low price. I ran an 11x2 this season and did quite well with it.
I switched to an Integy the last week of the season.

[ViperStrike]

Oh one thing.
with mine I had to cut the comm after 8 runs.
it just died after that. once I put in new brushes and cut it, it was good as new.

[k_sw31]

ACK!! Well, I do agree it is a good motor :)

But.... I was just running it, doing some stunt driving, power sliding, flipping it etc. when is rolled over, I gassed it a little, just to see the tires balloon ;) And, well, it did what I think you call arching. A huge spark shot out from the com. :( what does this mean? Its seemed to run fine afterwards :confused:


Oh yeah, I took some red-anodized heat sinks and threw them on my battery strap, they look really cool :D

[ViperStrike]

yeah I'd say thats some serious ARC.
only problem with that is it blackens the brushes and comms and leads to having to replace the brushes and cutting the comm sooner. Oh and very important.
you should not use reverse if you have the timing advanced on a mod motor.
it causes excessive arcing.

[k_sw31]

Luckily I dont have reverse :)

SO, to prevent more arcing, should I set the timing back a bit, like, say, to about 15 degrees or so?

[ViperStrike]

Yeah I would
I read in RCCA that 20 was perfect for that motor but mine arced bad. I set it to 10 and it was fine.
just experiment with it a little.

[k_sw31]

Ya, I saw that too, I'll experiment with different settings tomorrow (for some odd reason we dont have school :rolleyes: )

I cant do it tonight because it was dark an hour ago and its 5:30 now! One of the only reasons why I dont like winter. :(

[ViperStrike]

It gets dark here at 4pm :(

[k_sw31]

HAHAHAHAHA! :p Oh, ya, It starts gettting dark here too soon, after I get home from school I barley have time to get 3 or so runs in :(

[ViperStrike]

Yeah thats why the winter is so depressing.
Its dark by the time I get home from work.
I might buy a rally car just so I can race this winter.
I dont think I can wait till May to run my T3 again.

[k_sw31]

Ya, the only good part about winter is snowmobiling :) The one time of the year when I can drive something that is faster than some cars (my dads new one has 150 hp (R1 engine!) it has been clocked at 135 mph! :eek: )

Of course, I'll get my BL controller back just when we get a record amount of snow and it actually stays on the ground! With my luck anyways :p

But I am thinking of picking up a tamiya mad bull to run, bash, destroy, etc. I could make use of that stock motor and msc! ;)

[pudder]

KS-You should get a crappy reciever and ESC, cover them in silicone, as well as waterproof the servo, you could like run the tthing underwater. How cool would that be!

[k_sw31]

I actually accidentally drove my micro rs4 into a small pond! Dont ask how, but i managed it ;) Amazingly, averything worked after words :)

See, thats my plan, use the msc, water proof the servos, dont give a crap about the stock motor, and waterproof an RX box. THen you add some paddle tires and you got something water-ready :D

[k_sw31]

Hey! I could try and make it hydroplane!!!!!

I was able to make my T3 do that with a 13x3 :)

[pudder]

Just a little note, motors dont react to water. :)

[trxstr1961]

thinking about getting a new/used t3 for christmas this yr. prob is, which one to get?? mainly for bashing tho, i do know i dont want the ft version, top plate breaks TOO EASY!

[ViperStrike]

If you just want to bash the RTR or Sport version are fine for that.
I see plenty of them on ebay.

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by pudder
Just a little note, motors dont react to water. :)

Well, as I have learned with the speed gems 2 motors, the chorrosian resulting from water causes extra resistence which makes more heat which melts the endbells :(


trxstr1961- Well, for what you get, the team built version is very cheap, only about 125$ at www.sheldonshobbies.com I started with one, the main things I upgraded were the hinge pins (to TI) and lots of rpm parts, One thing i noticed, is when I took what was left of a team editon front end and put it on my T3, I only broken one top plate since :) (i broke 4 before)

[k_sw31]

Uh oh, Lol, I was drving my T3 around today, I took it off a jump, in the air, it flipped over, and landed on the rear shock tower (i wasn't running my body) the leverage from the shock tower snapped the things that the shock tower mounts on. :) ONe more addition to my christmas list ;)


ONe question, since I am not racing (well, just on my backyard oval type thing), what will give me better durability, the graphite or composite chassis? (I will get the xl chassis) Is the graphite worth the 10 extra $$?

[k_sw31]

Here, see for your self :p

[pudder]

No it doesnt. I have never broken one, or have never seen anyone break the top plate and I have been in crashes with curbs, other trucks, lots of things and no broken parts.

[ViperStrike]

never seen that before :D

[k_sw31]

I'd have to agree with pudder on the issue of top plates. Its not the car, its the driver, the main reason why I've broken so many top plates is because that was My 3rd car, and when I first got it i broke about 3 right off the bat, cause I was such a bad driver ;) I now have only broken a few in the last 1 and 1/2 years, my driving is still improving too ! ;)



So should I get the graphite chassis or the regualar composite one?

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by ViperStrike
never seen that before :D


THats the second time i've done that too! :p ;)

[pottymouth]

Made a prototype inner body to keep the snow out:
http://homepage.mac.com/pottymouth/P1010142.jpg

Yes, it's ugly. I said it's a prototype! I made it out of a sign, only 96 cents!

http://homepage.mac.com/pottymouth/P1010144.jpg

That's velcro around the edge to hold it on. It's tight! When I find a minute or 5 I'll cut the tape, take it apart, scan it, trace it, and make a template for the other T3 snow bashers out there :) A hint, don't score and bend. It cracks. The trick is to use just a bit of heat and a straight edge.

[ViperStrike]

thats a great idea!

[k_sw31]

Lol :) That thing is cool :)

I think this winter i may adapt the old inner body from my rs4 MT to my t3 :D

Isnt that sorta heavy though?

[pottymouth]

yeah, i know :D It makes changing batteries a bit more difficult but it should be worth it!

[k_sw31]

A nice lexan one shouldn't weigh much :D

ANd it wont generate a ton of heat like it did on the rs4 mt's too :D

[k_sw31]

ITs amazing what you can do with some super glue and some shoo goo :D

I should be able to run my t3 by tomorrow :D

[k_sw31]

Hey guys, I got my T3 up and running a bit ago, enough to get 3 packs in :D

They shoo goo/super glue combo i used seemed to work really well, I had 4 or 5 really good tumbles, and everything seemed fine :)

[Crashmaxx]

I got a green machine 3 pro stock motor for my T3. Any recomendations on gearing? I won't be running it till the snow melts, but I want to get it ready.

[k_sw31]

I think a 20 or 21 tooth would be good :)

But you may want to go a little higher, i'm not sure :)

[pudder]

Look in your manual for gearing reccomendations. I would try at a 18 tooth since these motors are a lot more sensative to gearing than other stock motors. It is always to have it geared low to start so you don't accidently do damage if you accidently geared too high.

BTW: You amaze me how many things you can break on that poor truck of yours. :) I landed on the back shock tower upside down from about 4-5 feet high on a cement sidewalk, just ground down my shock tower a bit. :(

[k_sw31]

I amaze me too :) ;)

But, it's up and running again! :D

[pottymouth]

Well, the underbody worked great...for about 2 minutes. Then the car wouldn't stop. I hit the brakes and it went into reverse and wouldn't stop. I went forward and it wouldn't stop again so I drove it into a snow bank. It took a while to get the body off and then get the underbody off with the tires spinning full speed the whole time. When I got it off the inside was completely dry but there was smoke pouring off the sc. Yay. That's the second LRP F1 Reverse I've fried in this car. The first one lasted about 15 minutes. Overheating isn't impossible but I really doubt it. It's only about 30 something degrees outside and it's supposed to just shut off if it gets hot, not go up in smoke, right? Funny thing, the light on the SC works like it should. When I pull the trigger on the controller it gets brighter then goes out at max throttle. Reverse looks right too. It just doesn't ever stop.

I'm sick of this thing. My Futaba MC330CR works a helluva lot better so I'll just get another one of those. I suppose I'll just return the LRP again and try to sell the replacement on eBay or something. Do you think if I complain loud enough LRP might cover the shipping this time? What a PITA.

[k_sw31]

Well, it seems to work for fat people ;) Might as well give it a try ;)
IF I were you I'd sell it on ebay, then buy a NOVAK! Lol, I have never had a problem with any of my novak speed controlls :D

[pottymouth]

I swapped out the fried SC and put in my Futaba. Man is this thing fun! It was kickin snow and slush like 10 feet in the air. Stupid me was standing right behind it when I floored it and I got covered in slop : )

I ran 3 batteries thru it and it was still bone dry everywhere cept around the steering servo. I don't think it will be possible to keep the snow out of there but that servo's been waterproofed so it should be OK. I definately won't be snow bashing with any motor I care about. The snow likes to collect all over the rear. Also, the slipper got pretty loose towards the end. Some water may have gotten under the cover, or maybe it just loosened up naturally. I'm gonna take it all apart and see if water got in.

[k_sw31]

Snow is fun! :D Now all i need is some here ;)


Aw well, for now i'll just need to make use of paddle tires and gravel ;) :p :)

[pottymouth]

Here's the underbody info. (http://homepage.mac.com/pottymouth/t3_underbody/underbody.html) Maybe I should patent it or something :) Enjoy.

[k_sw31]

Hey dude thats pretty cool :cool:

Lemme know when copy right it so that way I can make one before hand ;) :p

[pudder]

Oh how I would love to rip out my T3 in what little snow we have... too bad I am saving it for strictly racing.

[ViperStrike]

I feel the same way pudder
I just put my T3 in storage.

:(

[pottymouth]

maybe y'all need another one. call it a parts car!

[ViperStrike]

I'm trying to get an RS4 rally
just for that purpose
I just cant find a used roller anywhere.

[k_sw31]

*Cough* Team built T3's are only 130$ at www.sheldonshobbies.com WHAT! ;) :p

Pottymouth- I just put on of those innner bodies together in about 20 minutes out of some really light tin (it was a no tresspassing sign too ;)) It is sort of wack because I did it really fast and I is sorta hack-job because I didn't pay attention to detail ;) It looks like it'll work good, all I need is some snow now ;)

[pudder]

I have a stampede to beat around, but I need a new ESC first, I blew my 2 the other day. :( Maybe I could get my cheapass duratrax one repaired in time for racing for a fee. :(

[k_sw31]

Just buy an MSC and waterproof the servo, they are only like 30$ too :)

[pudder]

That is not a problem, there is not enough snow to do anything harmful. Plus, the stampede, hands down, has got to be the best snow truck I have ever seen, I can go through anything and after a run, minimal crap will be sitting in the chassis. :) I hate cleaning my T3, all those stupid ribs in the chassis full of crap. Atleast carpet racing is clean. :D I just have to have a clean racetruck.

[GA Maxx]

hi, ive decided to scrap gettign a new truck and replace all the broke parts on t3 heres a list ive als oincluded new body and hop ups

AE#9120 B2 Front Cross Brace £1.75
AE#9210B B3 Blue Front Kick-Up £10.25
AE#9160 B2 Servo Saver & Bell Crank Pin £3.15
AE#9131 B2 Front Top Plate Graphite £8.19
AE#9220 B2 Front Bumper £2.65
2x AE#9215 B2 6-32x3/16 Screws £1.75
AE#9381 B2 Transmission Brace Graphite £6.15
AE#9241B B3 Blue Rear Chassis Plate £12.30
AE#9245B B2/B3 Blue Motor Mount £8.19
FASTM4BF Fastrax Aluminium M4 Locknuts-Blue(4) £2.99
AE#7221B Blue Inline Front Axles £7.69
AE#6375 Roll Pin For #6374 Stub Axle (6) £0.99

Fibre-Lyte Front Carbon fibre Shock mount £12.90
Fibre-Lyte Rear Carbon fibre Shock mount £11.70

Titanium Racing T3 CVD’s £30.99

PL1074 Masher 2k’s Pair
Masher 2000 Front or Rear(Truck) £14.70 a pair
PL3079 98 Dodge Ram (fits RC10 GT £19.99

£175 and the shocks and wheels
Also want

Shocks


£175 and the shocks and wheels


any ideas for shocks?
i want blue threaded or has anyone got the lpart # for teh Factory shocks?
thanks

[ViperStrike]

WOW you really killed it didnt you??

[k_sw31]

WHoly crap I got competition! :eek: :D ;) :p

For shocks I'd suggest you just buy the Factory Team ones, then use the slider things, not the clip on preloads or the threaded ones, the ones that have the screws in them are the best :) THey come with the shocks too, I'm not sure what the part # is though :confused:


Geez, for all that money you could buy a whole new T3 over here in the US! ;)

[k_sw31]

Oh yeah, also get the old school mashers for the back and and masher 2k's for the front, the older ones look better and toss more dirt around :D

Also for rims get the RPM blue clawz one's :)

[GA Maxx]

i am getting the blue rpms, talonz

i knwo its alot but dont worry
its a T3 basic and its wrecked, i may just buy a factory team:)
thanks

[GA Maxx]

i forgot to say ibe got $400 to spend on it and i already have top elecs

[GoFaster]

All of that money, and you are not going to race it??

Mashers?

Why waste your money?

Sounds like you just want to bash.

That carbon fiber stuff won't make any difference for bashing, except it will be more expensive to replace when you break it.

:confused:

Be sure to check your gearing after gettings those taller tires. You don't want to burn anything up.:D

[k_sw31]

Wow, what I could do with 400$ right now! :D

I have to agree with go faster, you dont need the carbon fiber stuff for bashing. I think just buying a factory team is cheaper.

ANd hey, if you have enough money, go brushless! :D


Crashmaxx- So are you still interested in my GT or should I auction it off on ebay?

[pudder]

Hey, I just found out that my Tekin 411 G works! My mommy sent in my crappy duratrax one for replacement, and I am going to get a Tekin 411 G2 soon!

[k_sw31]

Heh, I wanna get one of those old tekin esc's that can handle like 20 cells and run 3 packs in a series on one of those indestructible graupner 700 motors :D :p

[pudder]

I thought I blew my Tekin. I was running 10 cells in my stampede with the 20 turn motor. I have no clue why my Novak died since I went to hook up the 10 cell pack and it just didn't work. Oh well, things are looking up! :)

This is a picture of my T3 sitting under my Christmas tree!

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/DSC02780.JPG

[k_sw31]

Just a random picture, but hey, lol ;) :p


Pottymouth, I tested out your inner body thing, it works great :) Not a spec of dirt got in :) :)

[Crashmaxx]

opps, double post.

[Crashmaxx]

k_sw31-Sorry to leave you hanging with the GT. I traded my e-maxx for one from another guy. Not the best GT, but it came with a picco .15:D , so go ahead and put yours for auction.

And when you recommended gearing for the stock motor, what spur was that? I have an 87 in right now. And 18/87 sounds undergeared.

[GA Maxx]

who said im not racing??? il lbash and race it, ive also just ordered a 645 mg servo, and i think il lorder a new reciever for it. I dont really wan ta brushless casue they seem that they are only brilliant with more than 6 cells, and my charger only charges 8 maximum, and it was $230!!!!

ive got al lelecs already but im going to buy a GT7 which eats out my budget so ive got around $300 to spend now

[k_sw31]

Actually, brushless motors produce gobs of power on 6 cells alone :D MOre than any brushed motor :D

Crashmaxx- THats fine, I'll put it up on ebay soon then :) I'll put a buy it now for 220$ and see if I can get that much :)

I didn't reccomend to start at 18, that was pudder, I said around 20 or 21 teeth :)

[GA Maxx]

i think i mighjt just get a tc3 factory team klol it will work outc cheaper

[grewst]

I just got a Speed Gem Pro 11T Jet,, I was wondering what gearing I should run,, right now I have 16/87 on it, but it sounds undergeared,, any opinions

Also,, has anyone tried HGI's lower rear shock mounts,, I was wondering because they have 3 mounting holes,, for more tunability??

[ViperStrike]

I have the same motor
I ran it 17/87 and it was great.
at 18/87 it got too hot and turned a little purple.


Oh since someone is posting pictures ;)
here is the last body I painted before I packed my T3 away.

http://users.erols.com/thelastd/girlegirl.jpg

[k_sw31]

Niiiiiiice :)


Hehe, an hour or so ago I went swamp bogging with my T3 :D

Got my paddle tires and everything, I was driving around in my 3 inch creek :) Of course, by the time I was done, everything was covered in mud and sopping wet :D Luckily the inner body prevented a lot of crap from going in, but hey, how can It now when your halfway submerged in water? :D It was fun :) My electronics still work too :D

[Crashmaxx]

I only can wish my T3 looked that good. Oh well.:)

k_sw31-I wasn't nessasarily talking to you about the gearing. I will just start with 17/87 and go from there. I don't want to burn up another motor.:p

My BL controller came back today.:D They charged me $99 for a new one but that is half price so oh well. Now I don't know what to do, it is a shulze 18.61 controller and I can either sell it on ebay and pay my parents back the $99 I owe them now and pocket the rest(about $50) or get the $99 somewhere else and get a BASIC 5300 motor for $100 and run it in my T3. I'm not sure if it is worth it though.:confused: Its a lot of money and I like my GT7 pretty good, but I keep burning up motors and I always want more power!:eek: But I fried one controller already and my setup is pretty good, so I don't know. But hey, I guess I will probably go for it, if I don't like it, I will sell it on ebay then and put my GT7 back in. Otherwise I will sell the GT7 or maybe put it in my mirco, hmm.:)

[k_sw31]

WAIT-

Crashmaxx- I'll buy that controller (the schulze) off of you, e mail me at k_sw31@hotmail.com :)

I have looking to buy a schulze, cause the warrior's aren't the greatest BL controllers in the world ;)

Its an 18.61 right?

[pudder]

Keep it all! :D

ViperStrike- About those front rims, just curious where those are from, I have seen some like those at my track on some guys truck in the summer.

[k_sw31]

Pudder- SSSSSHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!! ;) :p be quiet ;)

I think those are the team orion revolver wheels aren't they?

They look good though :D

[ViperStrike]

Pudder-

They are Pro-Line Eliminator rims (or was it Exterminator)
they are for the T2.
as far as I know they are not made anymore but I could be wrong.
I got them off ebay for $4 a pair.

[Maxxmtpro]

Hello all im very new to the electric stadium truck thing
and have always ran nitro

The only elctric trucks ive had where radio shack trucks and once i beat them to the point were they dont run i would run them over with my Mt

i bought the RTR version of the t3 and need some questions answered for any of you guys who think you can answer them

how often will i have to replace the brushes on a stock motor???

how long will a motor last??? (im sure it depends on how you drive them so id say i drive them pretty hard)

i also bought a front kickup what im wondering is will that cover up where the mini bumper from RPM would go???

lol is their any way an electric stadium truck will ride a wheelie

Thank you for any reply
Dan

[k_sw31]

IF your used to nitro, consider going brushless :D

I would reccomend purchasing a Schulze 18.61 controller and a Lehner 5300, you can purchase both at www.finedesignrc.com/cars-trucks.asp (if you have the money, it'll run you about 275$ + shipping and tax.

But, that setup will give you more power than almost any small block nitro engine, plus, you can get over 8 minutes of run time on all but the cheapest batteries :D Also there is hardly any maintenence, only the bearings need to be replaced after 5-10 years of use :D :)

It is definatly worth the money, and the T3's tranny has no problems with the power :D

Again, the price is steep, but it's worth it, and keep in mind that a GT-7 and a D5 would be nearly the same price, but you have way more runtime and power, plus no maintence, a BL motor will simply out last a D5 forever :D

Edit: Brushless motors have mind-bending torque also :D, plenty enough to ride a wheelie in a T3 :D

[pudder]

Well then...

The front kickup is the little metal plate that goes from the front of the chassis to the front bulkhead, unless you are talking about hte front skidplate...

Brushes- well it all deppends on how you are running your truck. After every 4 or so packs, check the brushes by taking them out of the brush hoods. If they are about half a cm. short, they should be replaced. They should also be replaced if they are burnt, they will be blue and purple if they are burnt.

How long a motor will last deppends entirely on the owner. If you go hard on it and never properly clean it, it won't last very long, but if you maintain it, replace brushes, clean it and so on it can last years. I have a nice little article on basic motor care if you want to see it, just ask on here.

Well, other than that I don't think I can say much besides take care of your truck. The T3 is probably one of the most durable trucks on the market right now, and if you maintain it properly, it will last you years on end.

Wheelies- The way to make your truck pull wheelies is either have lots of cells in it for more power, or having a better motor.

[k_sw31]

Oh yeah, to hold wheelies with out BL-

Buy a monstermaxx 550, gear really low, and the more cells further back the better ;)

[pudder]

No man, Traxxas Titan's are the way to go! ;)

[k_sw31]

Nah, you can buy the 17x1's with the monster maxxs, plus you can replace brushes etc.



Or if your a wheelie freak- Get a hacker c50 8L brushless motor, you'll have so much torque you could gear 30/78 and still pop a wheelie at any speed! :) (maybe eggagerating (sp?) a tad :rolleyes: )

[aspiringrcracer710]

Would a Hitec 625MG servo fit in the T3?

[Maxxmtpro]

Lol thanks guys but i dont think i can afford a brushless motor and all that good stuff at the moment with x-mas ripping my wallet and stompping on it.

another question is how do you get your pictures on here im tryen hard to get my ntro pic on these forums but cant figure it out

any of you got the graphite chassis for the t3 looks light compared to the stock

[k_sw31]

To post a pic- you can do it two ways~
1. Make sure the file size is under 61440 bytes, then when you post, scroll down to the bottom of the dialog box and hit browse, locate where the file is saved hit ok then post.
2. Or you can have a place on the web host it, go to their site where it is posted, right click on it and say "copy image address"
when you go to post past the address in, this is the only way you can post multiple pics on a reply :)

I dont know about the hitec servo

For the chassis, if there was a difference, it wouldn't only be like, a gram or two, so, you wouldn't notice it. The only reason why you want it is for stiffness, unless there is a difference in durability?


PS, where is a place on the web where they can host my pics?

[ViperStrike]

Yes the 625 MG fits the T3, I have one in mine.

also I have the graphite chassis and yes it is lighter and stiffer
but it is more prone to break.
I would use it for racing only.

[pudder]

KS- I could host your pics if you want on my site, give you your own page and whatnot, just let me know since I basically have unlimited space for hosting things.

I have had trouble opening files in hotmail, but I will try outlook to open things next time.

Send me a pic or two and I'll see what I can do, I could probably get all of your pics up for you.

PM Me

[k_sw31]

ok, check you box in a few, e-mail and PM :)

[pudder]

I have the whole graphite kit since I own the FT T3, holdingthe truck as a rolling chassis in comparasion with a non graphite one I am sure that I could tell the difference, but for bashing I would go with the non graphite stuff since it is more flexable and is not supposed to break easier. Like said, graphite is just used for racing because it is stiffer and lighter, though I have never had a problem with it breaking since I have never broken a graphite part on my truck.

I just have the FT version because it comes with so many extras that the other models don't have, plus I am using it just as strictly a racing truck, well with the exception of taking it out for a spin at home once in the odd time.

[brittonlj77]

Brushless would be a no-brainer if they only allowed them at the track.

[ViperStrike]

My track allows them.
they are so fast its sick.
we have 3 brothers that all use them.
2 in E-maxx
they kill the T-maxxes

and 1 in a XXXT

the only reason he does not win is because he has to get used to the speed.

he crashes a whole lot.
once he gets it down we are toast.

[pudder]

Do they have a separate class for the brushless guys, because it really is not fair to put him in with the modified trucks.

If it is like this, you should speak up since it really isn't fair to the other drivers, and well, not really in the rules either. :(

[ViperStrike]

Nope the BL runs in the MOD class.
we have 2 that run with us.
neither of them have won an A main yet.
but that will change once they get the hang of it.

They also let BL E-Maxxes run in the Maxx class.
they kill the .21 T-Maxxes.

We are only about 30 guys so its hard to split the classes.
we run:

Mod Stadium trucks
Gas Stadium trucks
Maxx class trucks (gas or electric)

we might have 4WD buggies next season.

[pudder]

Well if the brushless guys start to overpower you all, you should talk to the track managers and see if they could arrange something. As for the maxx class, well they are same kind really, I couldn't care less! :p

[ViperStrike]

Yeah I plan to say something if it gets out of hand.
the only good thing is our track is so tight that all the extra power is a waste.
By the time they get up to speed they have to hit full brakes to avoid crashing.

You have some guys running a 16x2 and winning over the BL guys and others with 10x2 motors.
its a great track if your a good driver.

My buddy does great with a bone stock T3 and a Speed Gems 2 13x2.
he even uses the Hitec Sport the comes with the RTR kit.
only upgrade he has is an LRP F1 Pro Reverse.

[ViperStrike]

Oh funny if you look in RCCA (the most recent issue)
there is an Add for the Ofna Dominator.

thats the track I race on .
one of the RCCA editors lives near the track.

[pudder]

Oh well aren't you mr. special. :rolleyes:

[ViperStrike]

And aren't you a sarcastic little dude ;)

[k_sw31]

Were all special now aren't we? ;) BUt i'm the most special :D


Mmmmm, Fun :D I just hydroplaned my T3 :D I was taking it over a 3 inch deep puddle, and I was kinda sorta hydro planing, a 13 turn would do it :) But i think it cost me my dually :( Not pausitive though...

[ViperStrike]

Got to give you credit K_sw31, your a brave one.
I wouldn't do half the stuff you do to my T3.

[k_sw31]

Well, guess my dually is fried ;) Lucky for me novak has great customer service :) I'll let it dry over night :)


THank god I have a fusion lying around ;)

[Timmy]

Well guys I think I am going to have to start coming in this thread more often. Seems like k_sw31 really beats on his truck like I do. Viper that is a nice truck you have in the pics. Running near/on water is not a good idea but it sure is fun. I hope you can get your Dually fixed. Well anyway I tell you what my truck has.

Team T3 , Novak Dually , 12T P-94 , 17/90 , Futaba Magnum Sport , Titanum Buckles , Aluminum CVD's , Masher Tires , RPM Bumpers and A-arm Mounts , Hitec 645mg .

Truck runs pertty good. I am hoping to get for christmas or buy a MX-3 radio , Dirt Hawgs on plain dish rims , RPM Gear Cover.

Well here are some pics of it.

http://community.webshots.com/album/54282802kEzLJp
http://community.webshots.com/album/45970621FnZsYE
http://community.webshots.com/album/46317955yKWaSw

Hope to keep this forum going with you guys.

[k_sw31]

Nice pics man :)

[pudder]

The pictures never seemed to load for me...

KSW-too bad about the ESC, luckily you have an extra though, I have to wait till friday or saturday until I get mine.

[k_sw31]

I'll give it a try tonight, hope it works :)

[Crashmaxx]

k_sw31- I will let you know if I want to sell the controller. Somewhere around $170 shipped sound good to you? Its brand new replacement and thats a $20 savings, plus whatever shipping being saved, but if thats too much, then make me an offer. I want to get my T3 running with my stock motor before I deciede. If it goes good to great, I will stick with brushes, but if it stinks, bl here I come again.

[k_sw31]

Well, as long as the sell is on at www.finedesignrc.com I will pay 160$ for it, its 170$ now

But if the sale goes away then I'll give you 170$ for it :) :p

BUt I'll probably take it from you anyways, if your willing to sell it.

[Nemo]

What would you say is better, or different, about each? Whats the difference in the trannys, also, thanks

[T3King]

does anyone know what size screw fits in the spur? i lost one and need some more.

Also, i got some lunsford turnbuckles, and when i put them in, all the wheels are okay except the fron left one. Its crooked to where when i drive straight it somehow still veers to the right. Should i just take all the Turnbucks' out and start over?

[jdm3849]

They are both pretty much the same trucks in terms of performance. So far my T3 has had the same duarability as my X-NT. Even though one is nitro and one is electric the X-NT performs better handleing wise. Both of the tranny's are bullet proof unless you don't break in the losi diff and tighten it. (not sure if xxx's have monster diffs.) In about 2 gallons of running my losi I managed to break 3 things, the first one was a front a-arm from nose diving after jumping my friends standing up. The second one was when I ran into a F-350 at full speed (40) and it got wedged under the rear tire also, it did'nt actually break that time its just that the bulkhead got a little crack in it. The third one was when I hit a mound of dirt at a construction zone at full speed (bout 4 feet high) and landed upside down w/o the body on and landed on the front shock tower only and since there was a crack in the bulkhead it allowed the tower to flex all the way and touch the upper deck and that cause the kickup plate to break ( If i would have replaced the bulkhead when I first got the crack this would not have broke)

They are both the same to me just get whichever one the hobby shop carries the most of.

[ViperStrike]

T3King,

Just get associated spur gear screws.
4-40 x 3/16 socket cap screws

Item# 6568

[pudder]

I just like any Associated over Losi. I have seen them to be more durable. Some people say that Losi gives a smooth "seems slow goes fast" ride, I don't know how true that is but others say that the Associateds are better for more aggressive drivers. Personally, I don't care what people say, I am better suited to the T3.

[k_sw31]

Well, in general if prefer AE stuff because the prices are good, durability is great :D and there is a very good parts supply at hand, plus they suit me good :)

[jdm3849]

Have you guys ever had a Losi? heh.


People say that TC3's are good for aggressive drivers, never heard that for the T3.

[pudder]

I think I already said I dont want a Losi.

[T3King]

so anyone know how to fix my turnbuckle problem? also, how would i balance a front tire without a tire balancer?

[jdm3849]

Pudder I never asked if you wanted a Losi or told you to get a Losi, lol.

T3king- Are you sure you did'nt tighten the buckle too much?
I am not exactly sure how to balance a tire w/o a balancer but you could just spin the wheel while on its axel and put a little bit of weight on the side that is up when the wheel stops spinning.

[T3King]

well, when i go on the throttle, it starts to veer to the left, instead of going in a straight line.

[ViperStrike]

sounds like you just need to adjust your steering trim.

[pottymouth]

that reminds me...when I was driving on ice the other day I notice that my T3 ALWAYS wants to spin to the left. It drives plenty straight but as soon as the tires start losing grip it't always a spin to the left. I tried swapping tires just to see if that was it but it wasn't. I'm guessing it's just getting more power on the right side. Is that possible? Is that fixable?

[ViperStrike]

You might need to clean your Diff?
mine pulls to the right when I brake.

[pudder]

I have noticed all of my rc cars to do that, I don't think there is really much you can do about it but just try to keep going in a straight line.

[pottymouth]

Originally posted by pudder
...just try to keep going in a straight line.

donuts are fun too : )

[pudder]

IGA has good donuts. The one nearest me sells donuts for 35cents a piece. :)

[k_sw31]

Donuts are great :D Krispy Kremes are the best though! :) they're like, 5 for a dozen. :D

Of course, throw the correct tires on, and you have a ton of donuts :p

[pudder]

I don't think we have those in Canada...

[k_sw31]

Hahhahahhahahahhaha!!! :p your loss :p

[pudder]

Oh well, atleast now we have VCR's!

[k_sw31]

Well, today I found out the shoo goo can only stand so much when it is holding a chassis together :p

I was doing some good 15 foot jumps :) And on one of them, I clamped the brakes to hard in the air, causing a hard landing on the body :p I guess that put some leverage where I had the break, and it snapped :p I guess I'll have to pick up a new one :p :)

[Prinler]

Help! This is foolish. Why cant i get any gear mesh on my t3? had to put a smaller spur on to make it fit. How do i fix it?
Also what the heck is the gear ratio? what do people usually run on there t3's? right now i have all my evader parts on it. 13x2 and 81x22 Gets hot. 21 gets hot. would 18 be to low?

[k_sw31]

your geared waaaaay to high man. Gearing for a 13 turn should be around 16/87 :cool: I'm surprised you haven't smoked anything yet :eek:

[T3King]

when you say you put on the brake, do you mean the car stops, or slows down? I have a Novak Fusion with Forward/brake and when i put ont he brake, the car keeps going, it gradually slows down. is it supposed to stop?:(

[pudder]

You brobably have your brake set really lightly. If you reset it, you could probably have it so that the brake locks the wheels.

KS- maybe you should work on your brake control in the air on smaller jumps before you tackle the bigguns. ;)

[Prinler]

whats the ratio of the t3? the trani ratio?

[pudder]

I am not sure but if you go to www.rc10.com and click on T3, it should tell you somewhere there.

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by pudder


KS- maybe you should work on your brake control in the air on smaller jumps before you tackle the bigguns. ;)

Actually, I had about 10 strait perfect jumps :cool:


Prinler- The tranny ratio is 2.4:1, and the FDR is 11.6 with an 18/87 primary :)

[Prinler]

Maybe Duratrax spoiled me... These shocks are small arnt they? I mean they seem, well, cheep. I dont see when i get shocks they always seem to leak. Brand new ones with one run.. let it sit the weekend and they drain out. i dont get it

[k_sw31]

The duracrap shocks look bigger cuz they are threaded. Trust me, AE shocks are waaaaaaaaay better that the stuff on, say the evader. I have never had a prob. with all hte AE shocks I've had, my friend's evader bend 2 shock shafts in the first week he had them, plus they leaked :( THere mus be sometin wrong with your shocks, maybe they were built incorrectky :confused:

[k_sw31]

WHere did everyone go :confused:

[ViperStrike]

I've been sick :(
and hanging out in the HPI Savage forum

[jdm3849]

I think I just tweaked the gold shock shafts for the FT shocks. Never had that happen with my Evader threaded ones. LOL

[ViperStrike]

I've never had one problem with my shocks.
that included numerous high speed cart wheels and crashes.

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by jdm3849
I think I just tweaked the gold shock shafts for the FT shocks. Never had that happen with my Evader threaded ones. LOL


Geez! How do you tweek the unobtanium ones?!?! I have bairly tweaked the regs, and through all the stuff my truck has been through :p Heh, and my friend bent his driving around on his deck ;)

[RC10's]

does anyone know if RPM or another company besides associated makes a front hub carrier (A-arm) mount. I had a fight with a block of wood at 30mph and will be needing a new one :) thanks

[pudder]

Sorry for my absense. :p My computer has been down for the last few days...


The AE shocks are much better than the Evader ones. The only reason why ones shocks would be leaking is two things: the seals in the shock are torn or the shock cap is not on right. If the shocks are leaking from the top, you can solve that by putting plumbers tape around the threads on the shock body.

Guys, about the shock shafts, my friend bent a titanium one while racing one day, no clue how but he landed funny a few times.

Shock shafts will bend no matter what, titanium, unobtanium, regular, doesnt matter. Remember, they are just coated in titanium, unobtanium, chrome, ect... but are still steel underneath, well that goes for most shock shafts. The coatings are just on there to make them more smooth and longer lasting.

[Crashmaxx]

k_sw31- You still want the shculze 18.61? Do you have paypal yet? $170 and I will ship it out ASAP.;)

[k_sw31]

Crashmaxx- I'll talk to you after christmas; my parents are sorta nervous 'bout me buying stuff expensive before christmas, If I dont get one for christmas, I will take your :)



But, I will talk to my dad about it, I'll see if I can get it from you a bit sooner, since I have a hunch I'm not getting one :rolleyes: :p

[pudder]

Crashmaxx- just send it over to my place. ;)

[Crashmaxx]

k_sw31- Thats fine. Just let me know.

pudder- Show me the money.;)

[Prinler]

motor and controler? I want it!e-mail me

[pudder]

Can I trade you for my DVD player? I really like these VCR's a lot better. ;)

[k_sw31]

I'll top you all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have an empty barg's can :p

[Crashmaxx]

No motor, and no, I don't want a DVD player.

[brittonlj77]

Any of you guys catch that T3 replacement chassis made by the Durango mod guy from Germany? It's in the newest issue of that other RC Car magazine. ;)

It's sweet looking though and supposedly several ounces lighter. The main difference is that it requires the batteries to be in saddle-packs (which might be fine if you happen to have other cars that use saddlepacks).

Anyway, just curious if anyone else saw that and what they thought.

[k_sw31]

Which 'other' rc car mag?

Link :confused:

[pudder]

I want to go to Germany, visit whatever family I have there...

I think I'll stick with my FT chassis though. :)

[k_sw31]

Go for it pudder~ if you go to germany, head over to the Lehner factory, and kick some *****'s inline for me ;) :p

[Prinler]

t3 with brushless for a maxx? hmmm ... oh dreaming sorry lol

Mini bumper, gear cover, after market motor plate. What other extras would make my truck just that much more pimp :)

[Prinler]

Almost forgot. where does everyone mount there on off switch? And what do you use to mount it? the only thing that makes it stay is CA glue. servo tape, foam tape, tape sucks. but i dont want a permanant mark on the chasis. Any ideas?
Anyone got pix?

[Prinler]

mine before upgrades
http://www.angelfire.com/in2/cuttiemanpic/t3.jpg
Stupid angelfire

cut and paste it. :( doesnt like to be linked.

[ViperStrike]

I used servo tape on mine.
I had a problem of any hard landing, the switch would turn off.
to I eventually zip tied the switch to my battery lead.

[pottymouth]

I just servo taped it to the ESC. It never comes off. The ESC is velcroed to the chassis so I can swap it between my two cars.

[pudder]

I cut my switches off, I hate them.

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by RC10's
does anyone know if RPM or another company besides associated makes a front hub carrier (A-arm) mount. I had a fight with a block of wood at 30mph and will be needing a new one :) thanks

Well, if you are talking about front bulkhead, racers edge makes an aluminum one, or, HG makes the C hubs (if that is what you are talking about ;))


I just zip tie my switches on a really short lead, then just let them hang around :p


I do agree with pudder though, those little novak switches are annoying! :p

[pudder]

...plus they add weight...

:rolleyes:

[k_sw31]

Right :p ;)

[pudder]

I was loosing races at first, but then I took off my switch and I got first place in the season.

[k_sw31]

Heh, then Imagine how bad you'd do if you got an LRP with those huge switches :p

[Prinler]

What wt shock oil does everyone use?

[ViperStrike]

30 front
40 rear

[k_sw31]

Sounds good to me :)

[Prinler]

what would happen if i put 70 wt oil in both?
what would happen if someone out10 wt oil in?
explain the effects please

[ViperStrike]

well if you put 70wt your shocks would be rock hard and your truck would bounce a lot making it hard to drive.
if you where on a smooth surface it would make the truck more responsive.

10wt would make your truck bottom out and hook in turns.
you would have too much steering and the rear wheels would have less traction.

30wt all around is a good standard setup.

[jdm3849]

With 70wt the suspension will be very stiff and will react quicker to steering and throttle inputs. But will handle like crap. they will also rebound very slowly.

With 10wt it will react to inputs more slowly, will boottom out more but with tuning it will work ok. It will rebound more quickly also.

[k_sw31]

Well, with shock fluid, the higher the weight, the higher the viscocity, so the more 'sluggish' your shocks will be, because it will be harder for the pistons to travel through the oil. So basically, the higher the weight, the harder the suspension will be to compress, you generally use 70 wt oil for on road racing :)

[Prinler]

Would 70 wt shock oil. work ok in a maxx? was told in high inpact situations 70 would be good for off road. read it in rc car action somewhere

[jdm3849]

It would be even more stiff because there are 8 shocks and it will take more of an impact to get them going because the weight is more evenly spread out and there is less pressure on each individual shock.

With the traxxas shocks I have had bad luck with the caps blowing off with heavier weight oil's after a jump.

I have no experience with maxx's but i would say 40-45wt for jumping and bashing.

[pudder]

THis year for indoor racing I am using stock pistons and 80 wt all around. For offroad I used 45 in the front and 30 in the rear.

[pudder]

I know there is a company that makes these things, but why the hell buy when you can make. :)

Racing starts Jan 5'th, I'll let you know how they work. :)

[pudder]

Guess I need to attatch it :p

[pudder]

...

[k_sw31]

Cool :cool:

Feel free to send me some ;)

To lazy to make some myself :p

[pudder]

You can Buy you own for that matter!

I would make you some if I had some more aluminum!

[Rinkrat99]

I need some help with a Dog Bone problem. It seems that whenever i fully extend the travel of the springs, one of the dogbones slips out of the wheel hub and starts grinding. Both hubs have the rubber O-Ring to take up some of the slack. Any thoughtts on how to prevent the full travel or keep the dog-bone from sliding out? I know CVD's would be better.

Thanks

[pudder]

Keep your truck so that when you have everything including battery in, it sits so that the a-arms are level. That is how you should have it anyways. Another solooution is to get CVD's. :)

[Rinkrat99]

Hi Pudder

Thanks for the advice but the A-Arms are level. I think I am having too much travel after a bump. The car is lifting off the ground therefore the travel is fully extended and then the dog bone may become dislogged. Does this make sense? Can I add a second O-Ring into the Diff Hub? BTW the Tire hub is the one that the dog bone comes out of.

Thanks

[pudder]

Yes that makes sense. I think you should try putting an o ring in the wheel hub as well. Just keep experimenting around. :)

[pottymouth]

You sure this is the T3 we're talking about? The dogbones can't even come close to popping out on mine. How far does the suspension drop? Do you have aftermarket shocks or A-arms or something? What hole on the shock tower are you using?

[k_sw31]

One thing you might want to try is using some RS4 MT dog bones, I found they are a little longer, and cheaper, plus I just took them outta my MT and they work fine :)


But, it sounds like if you put an o ring or two in the diff outdrive ya should be fine :)

[Rinkrat99]

Thanks for the help. I added 1 each O-Ring to both hubs on the left side (problem side). I also leveled the Dog Bones per the manual. Here is a photo of the problem. Also, note the ring around the stub axle where it rubs against the arm's outer rib. 2 o-rings on the same axle actually make it worse. The setup is per the manual with no aftermarket items.

Any thoughts?

c:\DogBones.jpg

[Rinkrat99]

Thanks for the help. I added 1 each O-Ring to both hubs on the left side (problem side). I also leveled the Dog Bones per the manual. Here is a photo of the problem. Also, note the ring around the stub axle where it rubs against the arm's outer rib. 2 o-rings on the same axle actually make it worse. The setup is per the manual with no aftermarket items.

Any thoughts?

[brittonlj77]

So as a long time lurker here I FINALY got my FT T3 (for Christmas if you can't tell). :D

I've been wanting an RC Car like this for about 15 years, but now I actually have a little extra money to get into it (what extra money the spouse lets me keep that is). ;)

Anyway I have everything I need to get it going now that I have the truck except for the ESC and I think I'm going to go with the GT7 as it's pretty reasonably priced next to it's competition.

I wanted to share a quick bit about the luckiest thing that's ever happened to me (er... aside from finding my spouse of course...heh)... I had met this friend of mind about 6 months ago through another hobby (Mechwarrior, if you're familiar) and we got to talking about RC. I told him that I was saving up for my first truck and what parts I was considering. He told me about his T3 he had and all the sweet tools and gear he had bought.

The uncool part was that his car and m8 radio were all stolen from his house when it had been broken into, but they didn't have time to take the rest of his gear. We talked about the hobby a while and he said that just thinking about the stolen stuff made him never want to do RC again and asked if I wanted to buy the remaining stuff off of him cheap (since we'd gotten to be good friends).

I told him that I was definately interested, and he started listing off everything he had. To be brief it included:
Entigy 16x5 with Power supply
3 matched 2400 packs
4 different stock motors
a full set of MIP Thorp hex drivers
a Cobra stock com lathe
a brand new itb digital airtronics servo
Every RPM tool I can think of (wrenches, tire mounter, etc)
several small replacement pieces for the t3(e-clips, screws, etc)
RPM Rear arm mounts
soldering iron and stand
and several other things like shock oils and what-not.

All of it brand new. He'd only raced like 4 times.

In a sense, the motherload. When I stopped drooling enough , I asked how much he would sell the lot for he told me $100!!!! Now, I'm a rather mature 30 year old who's been around a while and I had no intention of ripping this guy off, but I didn't want to totaly screw myself either! Anyway, I told him to think about it for a week or so and when we got back together he still insisted on $100.

I know this guy pretty well and I think he just saw an aspiring RC'er in me like he had once been. I know he has a great job and when gets into a hobby he gets into a hobby!

It sucks when a good friend's misfortune becomes your fortune, but I think it really did make him feel good to be helping out someone in the process, especially a buddy.

Anyway, thanks for listening to my good natured bragging and hope you can remember how excited you were the first time you got your truck/car.

Now to start assembly! To bad I have to work today. :rolleyes:

[brittonlj77]

Questions:
Does anyone use any other wheels than the dish style for off-road?
Do they affect performance at all?
Is there a big weight difference or problem with dirt unbalancing the wheel, etc?

Also, any pointers on construction that the manual may not cover well? I've been reading the manual quite a bit and it seems well written but you guys have the hands-on experience.

Thanks again,
Britt