AE T3 Forum v1.0

[ttweedle]

I have seen a t3 rtr and they are pretty good, we have one that races at my track...Its only slightly slower than the others, with a 9 yr old driving it...It actually impressed me on how good an RTR can be...

[Lowrider170]

Is there any way to get a little more ground clearnce out of a t3 with out any high $ mods??

[warhawk51]

lowrider just drill a hole a little lower than the previos holes on the shox towerz and mount the shox in the hole

[JimmyMac]

More ground clearance? What?? hehe, well just add more spacers on the shocks. That's what they are there for (not for stiffness). If you want more clearance, uhhhh.... uhhhhh, do what they said and drill some holes. but I don't think you really need to do that. :D

Mike

[Lowrider170]

Thanx guys i am gonna try to see if i can talk to my dad and order a rtr t3. :D

[RustlerBoy]

Good idea. Hey, is the Hitec digial servo's any good? I need a njew servo because my Cirrus one kept stalling, so i m going to get a high quality one. Any suggestionss? I want to spend under 460, so i am thinking the Digitl Hitec servo would be the best one.

[ttweedle]

RB i don't think you can go wrong with one of those. They have a 2 year guarantee not to break strip or die. so If you have the cash flow for one, I would certainly get one...

[TimmyRC10T3]

I got a Hitec 645mg for my t3, it is not a digatalk one. I like it so far. Besides how can you go wrong with a 2 year warranty. That is what influened me to get one. I broke like 3 plastic gear servo's.

[RustlerBoy]

Cool. Hey my friend uis trading me a Losi LXT or Jr T for my old Stampede. I think thats a sweet deal.

[Arkady]

Picked up my T3 RTR last night, got home after dark but still had to take it out and run it on my street...

Out of the box the car is definitely RTR, with a few small problems which I'll mention in a moment. Pop the batteries in the car and controller (Jr. Lynx if yer interested) and away you go. It's built well, everything seemed to be assembled correctly. The car drove straight right out of the box.

Only problem so far is within 2 minutes I had popped the left turnbuckle cup off the the ball joint. I suspect it wasn't seated completely, but a few seconds of squeezing and I was set to run my only two charged packs to empty.

Seems fast enough, for asphalt, very little bounce landing from 1 to 3 ft drops. Control is smooth and forgiving, turning arc was a bit wide for my tastes but that's what adjustments are for.

More to come...

[RustlerBoy]

Cool. sounds good.

[warhawk51]

is 21 87 good gearing for a p2k in my truk?for draggin that is...basic kit

[JimmyMac]

21/87 is okay. You can try 20/87 as well. For a GM3 I'd recommend a 19. Ohh wait, you said Draggin Hmmm well it's not a high speed motor, but a quick one. Try 19/87.

Mike

[T/Losi]

How durable is the RTR T3?

[losi]

Tell me wut u guys think. Ok i am goin to get the RC10T3 team updated kit. I am going to put the Novak Fusion in it and i will buy the Speed Gem 2 12T motor. Is this a good match????:confused: :D

[TimmyPantano]

I have the Team Updated kit and a speed gem motor also. I have a 16 turn Triple speed gem though. It seems to be a good setup. You should go about 30-35mph with the motor. I do 26mph with my 16T. Don't forget to order a couple pinion gears so you can adjust for conditions. Good luck with your T3. Glad you didn't get a matt francis truck. They will be out of style in like 1 Month. The T3 will always be the truck to beat untill the T4 comes out

[losi]

I think i will get the T3 team built wut do u think. I have no time to build my trucks since i go to school so i think i will get this wut u guys think. Should I.

[ttweedle]

I would say an rtr is good, but it sure is fun to put a kit together. You can do it over a single weekend if you stick to it... And the knowledge of your truck is invaluable.

[losi]

I have built many trucks so i have some knowlegde about them. The RC10T3 team built is not the RTR version. The team built is the team updated kit that is already built but has the same upgrades like bearings,titanium turnbuckles, etc....... I am just makin sure u know cause it sounded like u thought it was thr RTR version.:D

[ttweedle]

Actually I just wasnt reading your post right. Hey good luck with it either way you go!

[losi]

Tell me wut u think of this set up. I am goin to buy the Novak Dually Dual ESC and the the Speed Gem 2 Zircon 9T Double Motor.
Of course it is goin to be put into my new T3 Team kit. How fast u think it will go with the stock gearing. Thanx


:confused:

[wojo65]

losi~
i wouldnt go with that low turn of a motor. From my experience with off-road electrics, the fastest isnt the best, i would go for maybe a 11-14 turn double. Maybe even a 15, if the engine revs to high on off road your tires will spin causing no traction and low acceleration. But if your not racing go for it!!! It would be a blast except for maybe a chance to really hurt the motor if you dont care for it but i think you would.:p

[losi]

Really all i am goin to do with it is ride it in the dirt and street. Not to much racin maybe once a month. I want something fast and to fool around with. Should i get the Novak Fusion instead and put a 12turn motor in it??????????

[losi]

After thinkin and lookin up some info i have decided wut i am getting. Ok i am goin to get the RC10T3 Team Updated Kit(comes with titanium turnbuckles right. It didnt say on the site i was lookin at) and i am goin to get the Novak Fusion ESC and a Speed Gem 2 Diamond 12T double motor. Gettin this for my B-day which is Nov 6th so i will have it pretty soon. Any building tips before i start building. Thanx:D

CANT WAIT:D :D :D :D

[losi]

Is it worh gettin a FT T3 and not a Team updated???:confused:

[JimmyMac]

I don't think it comes with the titanium turnbuckles. The FT might have all the Graphite, and a bunch of "eye candy" screws. But it's not really worth it if you are gonna bash around. (Graphite breaks easier). Now if you can make A-main every race and occassionally win, then the FT might be for you. If not, don't bother. Just my 2¢. I race with Team Kit. Get the RTR! I'm sure you won't beable to tell the difference in performance (with ball bearing upgrades). :p

Jimmy

[losi]

Na i hate the RTR cause it doesnt come with anything i like so i am goin to get the RC10T3 Team Updated Kit.

[losi]

Is there a difference between the team built and the team updated kit????????????

[RustlerBoy]

Yeah. The team built has dogbones and less expensive bearings, less expenisive tires, and blue shocks and painted body. I would pop for the Team updated, or the FT T3. The Team has all the good shocks, bearings, etc. The FT3 has graphite, titanium turnbuckles, and other stuff.

[losi]

I just ordered my T3 Team Updated Kit. Cant wait to get it.

[losi]

Ok i need some help.

Wut pinion gear should i use if i use the stock spur gear and i put a D3 6T single motor in my T3. Wut pinion gear do i use to make it go fast. Thanx

[RustlerBoy]

u is crazy!

[losi]

i GOT THE MOTOR ALREADY. i AM GOIN TO USE A 20 TOOTH PINION GEAR. iS THAT GOOD.

[TimmyPantano]

20 tooth is way to high. Most people use a 20 tooth for a stock motor. You need lower than 18 at least. Probably like a 16 tooth pinion gear. Unless you are just using it to drag race 20 tooth is way to high

[losi]

U BUT I WANT TO GO ABOUT 40 mph.

[T/Losi]

How durable is the T3 'Team Updated'?

[losi]

I think the Team Udated Kit is very durable. They only thing that i dont like thats not on it is Titanium turnbuckles which dont come with it. I ordered my T3 team updated kit yesterday and lots of people say it is very durable.

[RustlerBoy]

Yeah, its awsome. Its real durable

[TimmyPantano]

The kit is very strong. You may need to get a metal gear servo or a good servo saver. So far I a\have oly bought titanum turnbuckles and replaced 2 rear a-arm mounts on my truck. I have also added on road wheels because the grip great on road.

[JB1]

Originally posted by RC10DS99
hey.....raced my T3 last week and busted two of my standard servos in 2 days. so i upgraded to a metal gear servo. holds up good now.


Why didnt you just get a small servo saver? i have one, ive never broken a servo in my t3, which is amazing for me

[ttweedle]

The stock servo saver will work just fine, IF you alter it a bit. all you have to do is round off the part that sits in the "v" notch a bit. Then put some servo grease(very little) on the flats of the v notch. And there you go. You will have a servo saver that actually saves your servo! I did this after I stripped out my first servo. found the tip on the web somewhere. Cant remember where.

[>T3<]

Hey i changed my name from losi to >T3< happy. Well i just finished building my T3 Team updated kit. Now i am goin to order my ESC and motor. I am goin to get the Novak Fusion and the Speed Gem 2 Diamond 12T motor. Wut pinion gear should i get if i want more speed then torq???????????:confused: :confused: :D

[ttweedle]

>T3< if you want more top end and less torque, go with a taller (bigger) gear. the extra teeth will give you more top end, at the expense of torque. Just remember that over gearing can burn up your motor.

My .02 worth

Travis

[Spurdog28]

T3 Modifications for Carpet oval


Here is what I have so far. Does anybody have any suggestions or know where I can get custom LTO parts? LMK, Thanks!

<img src=http://www.pixhost.com/pixc/cmspurrier/t3-top.jpg>

<img src=http://www.pixhost.com/pixc/cmspurrier/t3-front.jpg>

[RustlerBoy]

Sweet trunck dood!

[KC10Chief]

Hey guys, I've been racing a GT for a while and usually do it on an outdoor track. However, winter time is coming around and I'm going to move to an indoor track for the winter. I was planning my buying a Factory Team T3, and a Cyclone TC2 speed control. I have a P2K motor, and some new 2400 and 2000 mah NiCD batteries. I don't have too much stuff for an electric setup though. I have a 5 dollar soldering iron and I SUCK at soldering, but I guess I'll learn. What's a good charger? I have a Vision Peak charger. I'd like to get something better. What other things would you guys recommend for electric that I probably wouldn't have with my GT stuff? Thanks! Matt

[Spurdog28]

First things first. You need a good charger to maintain your batteries. Battery maintenance is VERY important. I would recomend a Duratrax IntelliPeak Charger. Any model will work good. You should try Towerhobbies they have good prices and fast shipping. Then you want to look at how you are going to discharge your batteries. Just driving till your truck stops is not good enough, you need a discharger of some sort. The cheapest way to do it though is using light bulbs. Stop by the track and start poking your nose around you would be really surprised at how many people will help. That would be my two cents worth. If you need anymore help, just post. One more thing is inside it usually helps to have FM. Good Luck!

[KC10Chief]

Spurdog, thanks for the info! I have a JR XR3 radio that I use with my GT. I have an old RC10 Worlds car that I put a P2K motor and some new batteries in. The car is so old it weighs about as much as my T-Maxx. I've seen the guys using the light bulbs to discharge their batteries. I figure I'll just start out running stock motors. They don't look as fast as my GT, but I guess I can learn all the electric stuff cheaper by running stock. Anyways, thanks for the help! Any further ideas appreciated! Matt

[MW_Avatar]

its been a while since i was last here...last time i ran my T3FT was....in may of this year. My esc is still broken, and i have no money to repair it. Now that Christmas is coming up, ill get a chance to run it :D .


Isky

[RustlerBoy]

Gewt yourself some good batts, and a nice charger. Other than that, you are setup great. Get a few extras such as spurs, sprinngs, oil, etc. And a couple sets of tires, and you will be set. Have fun shoppin!

[ttweedle]

I just got done racing. I came in 2nd in Stock Truck. I ran a P2K2 today and tha thing was sooooo fast. I came in 1st in all three heats then choaked in the main for 2nd. Actually I got hacked in turn 2 when I slowed down to make the inside line, wound up in 6th due to a not so great turn marshall, then worked my way up to 2nd, tried a pass, and wiped out again. Ended 3 car lengths behind the leader... Kilruf Most of the fast guys ran Modifieds today so I didn't have to race them.... I pulled the fastest Stock lap times in every heat! This P2K2 has plenty of torque, and loads of topend...I was using 87/20 gearing. I love this thing... It almost clears the triple at my track. Well thats about it here...

Travis

[JimmyMac]

Congrats! Just curious, but what was your fastest lap times?Were they running mod Truck? OR Buggy? Hmmmm I'm not sure when I can make it there next time. I'll have to see. Well let me go post on Tarheel forum to bump it up. You did pretty good though!!

[ttweedle]

My fastest single lap time was a 32.185, and my fastest total time was 9 laps in 5.00.085 A little faster and I would have had a tenth lap! Now that I have 2 motors, I am going to use one as a practice motor and keep the other for strictly racing. I figure I will be pretty fast when I learn how to keep my speed through the hairpins. Or at least learn when/how hard to break for them. I went through 2.5 heats before I needed a turnmarshall for help. So in a month or so I will be looking for some chassis setups, I think...I am running a Stock setup, right from the book, right now.

Congrats on your race weekend, Kilruf.

[Grateful]

has anyone bought any hop ups for their tranny that significantly improved thier punch/performance? Any pro-tips that would help for punch? feedback from t3 vets only please.
Motor: Fantom Stock
current gearing: 84/18 (11.2:1)
Track conditions: Extreme RPM Raceway; tight track, one short straight. (i need step pins to lock up.)

[JimmyMac]

Get a P2K motor with some "H" brushes. 87/19 gearing. Possibly 87/20. Step pins yes. You could try a titanium top shaft. Also make sure you are running 3° anti squat as well. Opps... disregard all... I'm not a T3 vet... sorry.... :p

Jimmy

[JimmyMac]

Oh, and get a good ESC that has torque adjustment and or a stock setting.

[Grateful]

kilruf-
you race at ex. rpm too?
ps. no way in hell am i gonna buy a p2k and new speedo. get real.

[JimmyMac]

I am being real. What do the big boys run out there? Which motor? Run what they do. If it's the Fantoms, then run them. Is the Fantom you are referring to the MVP one? Depending on just how short your track is and how technical, you might even want to try out 87/17 gearing. But if you don't like my input, that's okay. I have yet to win with my T3. Just lots of 2nds and 3rds. Never finished worse than 4th. Of course I've just started racing again in September after a 3 year retirement from RC (used to race touring cars and I'm back in that as well). I dunno, Fantom MVP's don't work to well against a tuned P2K at one of the tracks I race. But like I said, if it's a tiny track, the P2K will have more low end torque than the MVP. The MVP is a mid motor between the P2K and GM3. Basically the same as what the new P2K2 is. You figure it out.

Jimmy

[dkangel]

You have probrably already been asked this before, but
does anyone have an idea on where I can find a downloadble
version of the owners manual? I purchased mine second hand, (mint condition, never raced) and have already done the rally conversion and customer painted my own Trans Am body for it.
Just want to have the Owners manual for reference. Any ideas?

[JimmyMac]

Wrong forum dude... this is the T3 forum... not TC3. hehe....:p

[TyceCCSU@aol.com]

Grateful,
I have similar track conditions as yourself and run the same tires and motor. From time to time I use a P2K, which is just as good as the fantom motors. A couple tips.

Fantom motor with Trinity 4999 brushes, and Trinity plarized brushes, red positive, green negative.

Your gearing is very similar to what I have, I run a 19/87. If your looking for more of top end, use the above set up for high end torque and change to a 19/87 pinion/spur. This set up will allow you to have the torque at high RPM, while being a hair faster down the straight. This set up will also power you through and out of turns. You'll blow the Losi's away out of the turn and into the turn, be careful though, the on throttle power will be get you lose. If you have a Cyclone 1 ECS is the #3 set up, or if you know someone with a pit wizzard use this set up...
Drive frequency = 15hz
Brake freq. = 3.5
Drag break freq. = 0
Min Drive = 1.5 (5.5 modified class)
Drag Brake Value = 0
Drag Brake Toggle = 0

this will eliminate the over powering sensation and will help with a proper throttle curve for the T3. It's very smooth with out robbing you of power.

Tranny upgrades?
To be honest, you can buy the HG titanuim upgrades but your actually adding weight to the truck. Another thing, when you engineer a part, expecially when it is mating to another, you want one to fail first. For example, the idler shaft is made from a realitivly low to medium carbon steel. However it connects to or rides on a bearing which is either heat treated for a tougher casing or made of a high carbon steel. Being that the bearing is much more expensive, you want the idler shaft to fail before the bearing does. I would leave the set up the way it is. Anything besides the plastic/carbon fiber tranny gears will increase wear in the bearings and put excessive heat and forces on the diff balls and diff screw, idler screw blah blah blah. One trick you can use that i do for carpet racing is to use the B3 idler shaft. this gives me an final tranny drive of 2.25 vs the truck tranny of 2.40. Since carpet has much more positive acceleration/traction you don't need the higher tranny ratio. and you accelerate a hell of a lot faster with the same gearing. My P2K is mild when coming off the track.

One more thing, the P2K is similar to the Fantom in many reguards, BUT, the P2k runs cooler which means it is much more efficient and will allow you to have more punch at the end of the race. Note the time sheets if your track has them....the guys with the nice equiptment usually have packs that get better through the race...same concept.

[TyceCCSU@aol.com]

For Oval aftermarket parts -

I'm designing a oval chassie for an engineering project as we speak. I haven't really looked into mass producing them but if you would like a prototype I will charge you only for the materials. Not sure what it's going to cost me. I would say around 100 or less. If I can find graphite at a cheap rate it'll be much cheaper. Also, for mounting of the front chassie brace and the grear end I'm going to use eithet billet aluminum or stainless steel. Let me know if your interested. Also, there is a company that will design them per diem. I'll find the link for you. Only one problem with that, you're going to come up with your own mounting posts. Thast why I'm going to offer the chassie as a whole until with hardware.

[ttweedle]

Hey, Kilruf

I am looking at buying a Modified motor. I want one that is good for the track here in Hope Mills. I won't be racing it. Just to mess around with. I was thinking a 12t triple? What do you think? I was looking at the speedGems motors, due to their price. I don't want to spend 55 dollars for a motor that won't be racing anytime soon. I just want something that will be fast/ torqy. BTW I traded a guy a Real Time 2 Discharge tray for 2 2400 Matched packs... Made by Integy all have 1.16v readings on em. Now I have 4- 2400 matched packs! I got enough for a whole race day! Well I want to get up to Goldsboro to go racing but it looks like it will be after the new year before I will be able to make it... I need to let my liitle girl get older before we start going on trips. Well thats about it. Take it easy and good luck this weekend!

Travis

[JimmyMac]

Remember the rule of thumb more winds more top end, less is more torque. I'd say a 14 double will do you good. BUT if you must have a 12t motor. Go for a double. Good deal on the batteries. Oh yeah, my dad is working on the computer power supply to power my charger and lathe. It works for the lathe, but working on the charging side. Have to add some resistors. Also, I blew a fuse in my Intellipeak AC power supply. So I'm gonna make it so you can change the fuses in it. Also the cheap plastic connector started to melt. So I changed them to Deans connectors as well. Welp, gotta go for now. Go to Tarheel forum and I'll post a pic of our small indoor track!

Jimmy

[oodlesonoodles2001]

ne 1 race with a JR XR2? how are thee for a T3?

[TyceCCSU@aol.com]

The JR XR2 or XR3 are great for Truck racing. In fact, the M8 has to many options that a dirt racer will never use. Most of the high end controllers have limiters and stagger adjustments which us dirt guys will never use.

[Grateful]

I have the xr2 for my t3 and i like it

[Rinkrat99]

Hey guys, I finally found the correct Forum!

I have the option after 10+ years of using a 4wd Kyosho Shadow and a 2wd Kyosho Big Brute to upgrade to a Stadium Truck and have narrowed it down to the T3 and XXXT.

I will reuse my Futaba Magnum Sport, Receiver and MC112B ESC plus motors, charger and batteries.

The Basic T3 goes for $134.99 plus another $30 for a full set of bearings.

The XXXT Spec is $154.99 plus $20 for a full the additional bearings not in the Xmission.

At this time, I have no intention of running races as we do not have a dirt track within 1 1/2hrs ride.

Most of the fun will be at work on pavement (new tires needed) and at home on a dirt road. I am very heavily leaning towards the T3 due to cost. Now realistically, what would you expect to break easily on the Basic truck which is supposidly the same as the Sport Truck except for Mech Spd control.

Do you really need the CVD's, Graphite, Titanium Turnbuckles etc.... for just having fun?

Parts seem to be readily available at about the same cost for each brand.

I guess it comes down to durability mainly.

Any advice pros/cons is welcomed

Thanks guys

PS - Does anyone have a valid reason as to why Losi XXXT seems to be the hot car at the big races and not AET3?

Thanks again
:D :rolleyes:

[JimmyMac]

Well you don't really need all that fancy stuff to play around in the backyard. Especially the Graphite parts because they are more brittle. So eliminate Graphite. Now the turnbuckles might be something different. You may or may not need the titanium ones. I don't have then and figure I don't really need them even though I race. But I don't go crashing into barriers every lap. I'd say just stick with the stock ones until you notice a pattern of breaking them. So save the money for a stock motor or cheap battery or something (could use it for the bearings). CVD's uhhh can't really say. I used to run dog bones back in the day (80's) But recently my cars came with CDV's or the like. Again, wait til you break one then see if you feel you need to change over.

Remember, you are just having fun. So don't blow your money on "eye candy." I'd suggest the RTR kit. But you already have radio gear. The only upgrade for backyard fun I would suggest, and you say you will get, is the bearings.

Welp, that's just my 2¢! Go have fun!

Jimmy

[oodlesonoodles2001]

the only thing i broke on this thing, was the rear 3-degree arm mount, but i have disitegrated the wheels, and tires, so u dont really until, like he said stuff breaks a lot

[JimmyMac]

Question for you T3 owners. Do any of you know if the Losi wheels/rims are a direct fitment to the T3? I'm talking about the fronts and rear wheels. I know Losi sells the prebuilt wheels and tires. And they seem to be the tire that hooks up here at Rosewood. Just curious if they fit without any modifications. Especially the fronts dealing with bearing sizes and all. Thanks..

Jimmy Mac

[firebladerunner]

the wheel offset is all wrong. they may fit but you would narrow the truck considerably definitly not worth the effort

[JimmyMac]

Damn, I guess I should switch to XXX-T until AE comes out with the T4... hehe

[Darryl149]

Hi all, I am wondering what speed/torque servo to get. What is everyone using? I have the factory team t3 and a JR xr3 fm radio.

Thanks for the help.

[JimmyMac]

One guy here uses a standard servo and has won every stock truck race since ohhh Sept I think at our local track. So I have yet to beat him... give me time though... hehe :D Me, I use an Airtronics 94257. Very fast and has plenty of torque. Might be over kill, but I used it in my touring car.. well I still do... hehe. I need the speed....

Jimmy Mac

[TyceCCSU@aol.com]

Futaba 9301 servo will out last your truck. I've had this servo for 5 year and it's still going strong. The specs are as follows; Metal gears, transit time of .11 and torque of

Definates for a Truck servo -

-Metal gear (stripping is the main cause of failure in truck servos)
-Torque rating of 90 N*M +
-Transit time of .25 or faster
-Ball bearing for smooth operation.

Click below to find out the exact specs you need/can afford.

http://www.futaba-rc.com/servos/futm0029.html

Darryl - I have the same transmitter also.

[Spurdog28]

Try a Hitec 605MG. All I can say is big big difference. and they are only about $50. To me it is the standard for everything I own (except my E-Maxx).

[MW_Avatar]

I wuz wondering if my novak fusion could handle a trinity p94 12 turn motor. Would my esc explode or somethin?


Isky

PS, although this is a slow response, buying new top shaft, aluminum cvd's and rrp's slipper clutch for the t3 will make your acceleration much faster, not to mention your top end. But faster acceleration can actualy hurt your lap times because it'll fling the dirt from under ur tires. If that happens, just get a 2 wind motor...if u race mod.

[Spurdog28]

check out www.teamnovak.com YOu should be able to get all of the info you need.

[Darryl149]

I found a deal on a hitec 645 it has 107oz of torque and a speed of .24 sec/60°. Sound good?

[RustlerBoy]

Get the Hitec digital servo at Tower for $55. It has 120 oz/in, and .18 speed. It also comes with an aluminum servo arm!

[JimmyMac]

Yuck... slow!!!!

[techab]

hey, i need a starting point for a carpet setup for a T3. Got TRC foams(green) front and rear. Got some 70 wt oil, stock p2k, 87/20 gearing, but I need to know what kinda springs would be a good starting point.
thanx.

[t3joker]

what motor do you think i should get i have the rtr so i have the runner and it olny can take stock motors so what stock motor should i get?or should i get a new esc and go motdefed?:confused:

[JimmyMac]

Are you racing or having fun(backyard bashing)?

[ttweedle]

Well I built me a Transponder mount last night for my T3. I took a piece of scrap lexan and cut it to fit on my front body mount and the front shock tower. Cut a hole in it for the transponder, then mounted it with a hot glue gun. Its pretty sturdy, but not permanent. Gonna see if it will hold up in a heat race, next time there is a race here in hopemills. We got rained out this past weekend. I would like to hear any other Transponder mount ideas from you guys. I don't really like having to cut a hole in my body for the transponder...


Travis

[RustlerBoy]

Kindof the same idea, but mount it to thwe antenna mount???

[TyceCCSU@aol.com]

A basic rule of thumb, the closer to the front of the car the better. Aviod placing it near any electronic device, expecially the reciever and antenna wire. I place mine right in the middle of my front windsheild, but as you stated you don;t want to do that. The glue you used from a glue gun will fail in no time at all, expecially under impact. If you want to make it a perminate structure use a medium thickness CA glue. Make sure the glue is no more than a year old though. CA glue bottles are pressuarized with O2 to help preserve them, once you open it you'll get about 6 months of good use out of it. After that, their structurial integrity decreases greatly.

Another Trick - Use one of two front body pins. Cut a hole in the lexan slightly larger than than the pody post (same size as the hole in your lexan body). Use a piece of Lexan about 2 in long or whatever your preference is. When you go to mount the body, place that lexan with the hole, over one of the boby mounts, place the transponder on the opposite end and face it towards the front end of the truck. Mount the body and place the clip on the body post. Your transponder will be as far foward as possible with out ever drilling a hole. The transponder will actually be touching the front of the lexan...can't get much closer than that unless you mounted it as a front bumper!!!!

[otherguy]

I just finished putting together my FT T3.

I am putting in it:
Novak Reactor
Hitce Lynx 3d w/spectra module
Novak xxtra receiver
Millinnium Pro Charger
P2k2 Motor
Proline Road Hawgs (front/rear)
Bow Ties (r)
Blades (f)
Edge (f)
Fuzzie T(r)
Have green and blue shock springs, using 30wt oil
Might be missing something, but I don't know.

Does anyone have any suggestions on gearing for a stock motor with the spur gear that came with it, think its an 87.

Let me know what you think or if there is something I should consider changing. The only thing on the list I have is the tires, other things will be on the way shortly.

[TyceCCSU@aol.com]

The gearing depend on your application. Are you racing off raod, carpet or backyard backing? Either way, 18, 19, and 20 tooth pinions are all good starting points fo the 87 spur gear. 19 for a smaller track, 20-21 for a large track like those found in Cali or Flordia. Hope that helps.

[otherguy]

I will be racing offroad, indoor and outdoor and then racing parking lot sometimes. I have a 16 and 20 tooth pinion because someone told me for the tracks around here that a 16 would be good. Just want to get second opinions. The tracks around here don't have long straight aways except for one.

[TyceCCSU@aol.com]

In my opinion, 16 is usually used for a Buggy or a Modified Truck. Who is this person that gave you this info? I've never found a track to use a 16 tooth pinion, maybe a 17 but not that low. Most hobby shops have a tendency to ungear you for the sake that you learn how to drive before you go fast. Contrary to that, I believe that you should gear a newbie at top performance. your set up will change drasticaly with a 2 tooth pinion change. If you set up at a 19 or 18 you should be fine, and possibly undergeared. Hope that helps

[otherguy]

I am not sure what he was thinking. He sold me both a 16 and 20 tooth, and i could swear that he told me the 16 was for racing and the 20 for playing around. I could of misunderstood i guess, but he wanted to give me both ends of the spectrum with the pinions. I will end up getting everything between 16-20 anyway, I was just looking for something to start out with. The only thing I can think of is that he gave the 16 to play around with to keep the top end speed down until I got used to driving it??

[TyceCCSU@aol.com]

No harm in undergearing you, but you'll find 18-22 pinions to suit most of your needs depending on the motor and if you travel from track to track. Good Luck

[RustlerBoy]

just got myt new hitec digi servo. It's awsome. I hope it will fit in my T3

[otherguy]

I have a Hitec 925 servo and it was a little long. The holes wouldn't match up with the spacers that you have to put on the side of the servo. I had to file off a little of the mount that the battery holder screw goes into. I had to file it lengthwise flat so I could push the servo back far enough for the holes to line up. Just something you might be aware of.

tyce: thanks for the help with gearing

[RustlerBoy]

Well, it fits perfect, and works great!

[RustlerBoy]

Well, my digi servo(HS5645) isnt working right, so i took it to the lhs, and they told me to use a reciever opack. It works great! It adds some weight, but it also increase the speed of the servo, torque, and runtime, so Its a great tradeoff. Its because my Fusion doesnt have that great of servo cappacity. Hey, how shuld i mount a transponder mount?

[tcritserjr]

I have a Team t3. with
+ lrp f1 pro reverse & a Runner.
+ 1500 batts
+ 3000 (radio shack special runs good if slow charged)
+ Futaba MG servo (the 80$ one..dont know the name)
I want to race on road at my local track and was wondering what kind of motor would give this puppy a good median between speed and batt life. Gearing and setup suggestions are welcome as well. Type of Tires..Durability? Traction? and Cost?

The track has two semi-straights and two sets of esses(S's).

Thanks for all your expert and beginners inputs!
:cool:

[RustlerBoy]

Hey, what are some good hopups if im gonna stock race? Ihave a Futaba 2PC, Novak Fusion, and an old p2k, with a 2400 matched pack. I want to get some better tires and some lighter parts for racing. HELOP!!

[firebladerunner]

as far tires goes start with what everybody else has at your track I have aprefference to pro-line tires but that is just me losi tire are excellent as well. for hop-ups to your truck I would get all the graphite components except the chassis itself and a titatnium or aluminum topshaft for the tranny (robinson or hg) aluminum cvds are great but they wear very fast same with light outdrives. here is another little tip go out and get asc #6220 front axles they will widen your truck and give you better steering beyond that the best you can do is keep your truck well setup ans maintained plus practice practice and when your done practice some more

[RustlerBoy]

ok, thansk for the help. Will a Cyclone 2 help at all?

[mtn bkr]

Hey all! Just got my T3 a few weeks ago to replace my old 10T. That T3 is definitely much easier to race than my old 10T was. Question here; anyone else have a problem losing the e-clips that go on the back of the front suspension arms? Both my buddy and I either lose just one or both after every race.

Rustlerboy, I saw in another post that you race at TRCR. For a tire recommendation at that track, I've found that the combination of a ribbed tire like the Pro-Line "Blade" for the front and Pro-Line "Holeshots" for the rear works well.

[TimmyPantano]

I seem to lose them all the time too. I don't know why the come off they just do I guess. I keep putting new ones on. I always check the spots they are after every run. I reccomend you do the same. It only takes like 10 seconds.

[RC Freak]

i had the same problem. it is because stuff rubs on them and pulls them out. i put a little shoo-goo on them and they only come out if something rips at them.

[firebladerunner]

drill a small hole in the toe in block and use a set screw to hold the pins in place then you don't have to worry bout the clips and it is much cleaner than shoo-goo

[mtn bkr]

Good idea Firebladerunner. I remember seeing an article in Car Action where some of the Losi drivers were doing that. I'll have to go pick up some set screws and get rid of those clips.

[RustlerBoy]

nkas guys. Will a C2 help at all? Thanks MTN BKR, what type bike u have? I just bought a Jamis Durango. Any other hopups?

[firebladerunner]

I would not go with a c2 your fusion should be more than good enough to race with. I still sometimes with an exlorer 2 in stock(you want the puch more than the smoothness a speedo like that might give no speedo can really give that much more puch there is only so much energy in a battery) and I have no problem winning. if you really want to spend that kind of money on something go for a lathe or a high end charger something that will help you save money in the long run by being able to rebuild your motors or keep your batteries better longer

[Rinkrat99]

I need some advice. I will buy the RC10T3 Basic plus kit on Thrs. Its a Christmas present to myself. I am choosing this low end kit for 2 reasons. Comes with a 20turn motor and I already have the ESC and Radio from previous stuff.

Now don't laugh but here is the old setup I plan to use for just having fun.

Futaba FP-2PBK AM radio
Futaba MC112B ESC (says 27t max but spec'd at 100A continuous)
Futaba FP-102GR Receiver
Futaba S148 servo rated 42 oz-in torque

STOP LAUGHING

Now I will add the 17 Bearings. I also want to upgrade to a better low end ESC but this may not be wise because it might be similar to the MC112B which works fine. Any suggestions on a replacement that will work with this Receiver/Radio combo?

Now for the Servo, will this work ok for now then I should start looking for deals on a better (Any Recc?) ones.

Thanks in advance!:D :rolleyes:

[RustlerBoy]

so some better batts and a good charger and motor, and light weigth rotating parts will help alot?

[RustlerBoy]

well, i just broke gears in my HS 605 servo, so i am going to get the metal gears for it, then save up for a Cyclone 2 so i can use my digital servo!

[thrustdiamond]

Hi everyone,
I have a updated team t3, and want to get foam tires just so I can have some fun on a tennis court. Does anyone know where I can get them? I can't find them at Towerhobbies. Someone mentioned Pro-line makes them.
Secondly, my shocks have leaked alot of their oil in a relatively short time. Can I just try filling them again, or do I need to change the O-rings and other stuff? By the way, does anyone know why AE doesn't use the rubber bladders in the shocks? I put together a traxxas bandit, and even though it's a cheaper car, the bladders seemed to be helpful.
Thanks for any help :)

[RustlerBoy]

Yes, proline makes foams for RC trucks. And yes, u need new o-rings. It is always a good idea tohave a few extra handy just in case!!

[RustlerBoy]

i made the transponder mount acroos the body mounts, and wow, it looks great. Thanks for comin up with that guys!

[RustlerBoy]

So, whats a good setu for a clay tarck with not many bumps??

[otherguy]

I would think that you could use softer springs on it would work. That is depending on how many jumps you have. The softer springs should give you a little better traction.

[RC Freak]

ttt

[otherguy]

what the heck is "ttt" , have not heard that

[RC Freak]

to the top as in to the top of the page

[RustlerBoy]

ok, thanjks

[RC Freak]

i just want to say i love my t3

[firebladerunner]

sorry about not posting sooner. absolutly lighter parts and better motors and batteries make a huge difference more than some speedo. double check your servo saver they tend to lockup on assc. cars take it apart clean it up and put a dab of black grease on it that should help to keep it from oxidizing and locking again. what setup do you have now and how do you think it could be improved. what are the fast guys running setup wise. keep me posted and I will help as much a possible

[RustlerBoy]

ok

[RC Freak]

are any of you runnig eather the titanium topshaft or the lightned slipper or the aluminum outdrives or the titanium idler gear. Just want to know b.c i just ordered them. i have just read bad things about the outdrives wearing out fast in the general forium.

[RustlerBoy]

sweet, u have to tell us how they work when u get them. The outdrives do where if you dont use pads in them somehow

[firebladerunner]

I don't think I would use the TI idler gear unless you run mod. I suspect it would add a lot of wear on the diff gear and could add friction witch you are trying to avoid. the outdrives will definitly wear in a hurry unless you can adapt some sort of blade drive system to them niftech makes a setup (I don't make any claims to how good it is though) the topshaft and slipper setup should be great though. I would only run that other stuff at a large trophy race or the like where you want every last bit speed you can get mip also makes aluminum cvds that also wear very quickly.for every ounce of rotating mass you can get rid of it is like losing about 2.5 ounces from the chassis so it makes a big difference

[RustlerBoy]

Yeah, reduce rotating mass 1st, its twic as good as reducing static weight

[RustlerBoy]

How many here have built there own tracks??

[dan7532]

I have a question. What is PTFE coating? I am talking about the shocks on the T3 "team" kit model. Are the "team" model shocks better than the "basic"? I am looking to see whether the 'team' or 'basic' model is a better buy.

[RustlerBoy]

Its a teflon coating. The team shocks are tons better than the regular

[oodlesonoodles2001]

after giving so much to me e-maxx its tome to give something to the T3, so today (sposed to be my x-mas gifts) i got a lrp f1 power reverse, a mt15 t and a new blazer sport radio. it was dark when i got out of the post office, so iv only run it at night so far, man that 1/2 throttle is fast, and tomorrow im goin to the track ill keep ya updated.

[RustlerBoy]

Sounds good. Tell us how it works at the track when your done

[JimmyMac]

Hey, my name is in the new Feb 2002 RC Car Action magazine! I just thought it was cool to be reading the new mag and seeing it there. Page 129 under Board Walk. AE T3 Forum. Hey...... that's this forum!!! :D LOL..... anyways, take it easy guys. Got a race tomorrow with my T3! :p

Jimmy Mac

[RustlerBoy]

sweet. I am racing tommorrow too!

[Rinkrat99]

Hey guys!

Just got my new T3 kit for xmas and have started building the kit. I am up to the Diff part and need some advice on how much Diff Lube to use? The manual specifies "liberal" does this mean a nice gooey mess?

I already found out that the allen keys especially the smallest was stripped quite easily.

The other question is regarding the motor plate. The kit comes with p/n 9245 but I purchased a 6604 which the hobby shop said was better because it is aluminum and the kit comes with a plastic one. Well 9245 is aluminum but a hair smaller than the 6604. What should I do go for the 6604 or return it and get somethign more worthwile for a hopup?

Thanks

[oodlesonoodles2001]

well i gotta tell ya, this thing is fast! so fast it actually ripped the bottom of the F1 off! dont worry tho it still works, but man i hitnk it gets about 10 feet off a 3-4 foot jump, and it keeps up wit my E-maxx!

[Trucks]

rinkrat, on the diff grease just put a small amount in the center of your hand and roll one of the diff balls around in it till it is covered with fine coat of grease then use a screw driver to pop the ball into place.

on the motor plate I would return it and use that money to buy some other goodies. best of luck

[Rinkrat99]

Trucks

Thanks for the info. Here is another one for ya. I am putting the Gearbox together but the manual does not mention the need for grease or other lubricants. I thought I read somewhere that dry graphite lube on the gears works great. Any ideas?

Thanks

[firebladerunner]

the gears are a self lubricating nylon and do not need anything else if you wish you could use some stuff put out by aero-car I think it is this pink paste looking type stuff and is quite slippery. just about anything else I have seen will gum up the gearbox and make a big mess plus put more drag on the tranny

[Trucks]

I agree with fireblade, but if there is any dought go with the manual then you won't go wrong.:p

[Rinkrat99]

Hey Guys Thanks for the insight.

My next problem I ran into was the insertion of the Drive Shaft Roll Pin into the Top Shaft Gear. The opening is a 5/32" but the pin is slightly oversized and had about an hours worth of trouble before I got it in. I actually broke a Craftsman needle nose plier trying to get that damn thing in the tiny little hole. I ended up using a pair of regular pliers and crunching ever so slightly the pin and then it went in firm and solid. What a pain! Any more of these thought provoking steps?

Thanks for the help.

Do you guys have ICQ? I would love to chat with you about this topic.

Thanks

[RustlerBoy]

any clue why my P2k is slow?

[firebladerunner]

what color are the comm and brushes?? how many runs on the motor how is it geared. my guess would be if it started fast and is now slow that it is time to have it rebuilt. if it has been slow from the start it is either geard wrong something is binding in the drivetrain or you got a bum motor.

check the brushes and comm and have your motor rebuilt (there is a guy up that way who runs axiom motor I would think he could do a good job for you I would hope the price would be reasonable to )

[RustlerBoy]

Ok. Im going on Thursday because its my b-day, so i think i will give me and my motor a present, a thourough rebuilding!

[ttweedle]

Hey Kilruf saw you got published! that cool! Well I haven't been around in a while due to the Army of One! I had to go to Fort Stewart, GA for a training exercise, the past 3 weeks before xmas.


Later

Travis

[JimmyMac]

Hey Travis what's up! I thought you got sent off or something. Anyways, I haven't been to HopeMills in awhile now. Been goin to Virginia to race Touring Cars and racing my T3 locally. Haven't been doin too good locally. I think I need to step it up some. They are getting quite competitive here! Don't know if you can make it, but they are having a Trophy race on the 26th. Top 5 places get a Trophy. Top 2 or 3 get cash. But you'd have to preregistor or you might not have a pit table (you'd have to pit outside in the cold hehe.) Just thought I'd let ya know. We are getting pretty good turnouts here. Come on out if you can! Also we are running every Saturday til Feb or March.

Rinkrat, some or alot of the T3 parts are hard to fit. Especially the roll pins and some of the hinge pins. The roll pins are meant to be tight. Oh yeah, did you get a new Craftmans needle nose for free? :D

RustlerBoy, what gearing are you running? Just curious. Do what Fireblade says. Is your track large or small? I ususally run 20-21 on the outdoor track here with 87 spur. Indoors I run 17/87-89. Lately been using the 89 spur for extra torque. Just some thoughts.... Also try some 4499 Trinity brushes or Reedy 767.

Jimmy Mac

[R/C_12]

Hey guys.

Im new and have a few questions. first, what does the Xtra-long chassis do? I got my car used and the chassis is all scratched up so i need to buy a new one. Ill mainly race on a outdoor track. What are the advantages/disadvantages to having the X-long chassis?

second. Im not sure if mine is the FT or not but it has these annoying little plastic nuts that go on the front wheels. I hate these and wish to get some metal ones. Does anyone else have these plastic ones?

Last, what are some xtra parts that i need to buy that will be handy at the track. in better words, what will break a lot on the truck?:) (ie. a-arms, chassis, etc.)

Thanks!

[Trucks]

r/c, I don't really suggest any arms or chassie they are pretty tuff, I would suggest extra tires, motors,and batteries.

as far as the xl chassie, gives the truck more traction,and more stable in high trackion tracks.

[RustlerBoy]

My track is indoor and is about mid size. I run 19-87 gearing. I would buy another motor, but i dont have 30 bucks, so i will just spend 10 to get it trued and everything. My grandpa just built me a discharger, so i am very happy too!

[R/C_12]

Thanks Trucks.

Do you have the plastic nuts too?

Also, Im having a problem with my steering. When i go through a fast bumpy section my tires get twisted. like you know how when your not turning your wheels are straight (adjusted with steering trim) but after a bumpy section i have to adjust the steering trim again because my wheels turn to one side, its very frustrating! any help on this would be great. :confused:

Thanks.

[Trucks]

I buy a bag of those plastic nuts, some times I go thru two or three before I get one that fits right. On some of my older trucks I have the metal nuts they work fine, but you'll brake something more important if you hit something hard.

the steering problem sounds like you have something binding in the steering linkage.:)

[saabcaptain]

I am building my first RC car, a FT RC10T3 with the stats listed below in my signature. I have gotten up to where I am about to build the diff. I do have some questions about the servo saver though...

1. The manual says to leave 1/32" of thread showing on the servo saver which I did. I see many posts recommend "full loose" etc. An suggestions on better setting than the manual?

2. Many people talk about greasing the servo saver with black grease. What black grease would I use (the one in the kit or should I buy more or a different type...) and exactly where on the the two towers of the servo saver would I put it? Please try to describe the pieces I would put the grease on since my understanding of the terminology for RC and the T3 is only just coming up to speed... and I have no idea how "stiff" the front arm turning should feel, it is really smooth but firm right now.

3. Since I am about to build the diff and tranny any suggestions on hazards to avoid? I saw some recent posts suggesting to coat the balls in the diff with black grease while in the palm of your hand while the manual seems to suggest a method that would use much more grease... anyone have other suggestions?

4. I saw the plastic motor cover which you cut the holes out of. Would it make sense to buy a hop up like an RPM part instead or is that just for looks?

Some comments on my build so far...

I trashed a ton of screws and ruined one A-arm because of the stock allen keys in this kit. Finally a friend into RC airplanes showed me my errors and I have since replaced all the screws I ruined ($8) and the A-arm ($10) and bought a set of Trinity hex drivers which are coming in a day or two to prevent this from ever happening again. Sure learned my lesson!

Can't wait to get this thing running but I am taking my time and trying to get the build as close to perfect as possible before flipping the switch.

Thanks so much,

Dave

FT RC10T3, Novak Explorer II, P2K2 Pro, 1500 generic packs, 20/87 and 21/87 pinion gearing, and no radio or servo yet...

[firebladerunner]

use the same black grease that came with the the car it is simply moly based wheel bearing grease. put a small dab between the two halves of the saver and the aluminum sleeve that it rides on. for the diff be careful there are two sets of balls in the diff the small one that go on the adjustment screw are the one that use the black grease one tip that works great it to place a small amount of grease in you hand line up the balls in the grease and then roll the balls onto the screw between the two washer. for the balls that go in the gear use the clear silicone grease. I place the balls in the gear dry then coat each diff ring with a thin laryer of grease and then put the two halves together. and adjust the diff according to the instructions. associated has good instructions for the most part so they are a good guide. I use the rpm gear cover but that is because I hate cutting out lexan there is nothing wrong with the stock cover if you are careful in cutting it out

[otherguy]

All you T3 owners. Have you had any problems with your servo saver? How tight are you making the spring, lets say you tighten it all the way down, how far do you then back it off. I heard somewhere that putting grease in between the two V pieces would help, anyone hear of that? Just wondering what it did.

[Trucks]

otherguy, YES! the v blocks have a tendency to lock together when tightened down, so I take sandpaper and round the v off so that its not a perfect fit. then add the black grease. I wait till I have the servo in before I tighten down the nut and only tighen it down enough to get the tires to turn all the way to the stops on each side.

fireblade is right about the clear diff lube (grease) that goes in (on the balls) that pop in the diff gear. I guess I didn't make that clear before.

for the small balls that go between the washers in the diff halfes, I mount one washer and put grease on it. then put on the second washer leaving some room between the washers full of grease. then taking a small screwdriver with just a dab of grease on it, pick up each ball and push it between the two washers. when they are all in, I may take a little grease and smear it on the out side.

SAABCAPTAIN, yea I have done that too the first couple of times, but the right tool always helps.
:)

[Rinkrat99]

Hey Guys!

Thanks for the info and advice on building the T3.

Trucks - I did wander into Sears with the broken Crafstman Needle Nose and they will replace it for free when they have them in stock. This particular pliers was a hobby style so it should not have been used with so much pressure.

I am finally nearing the end of the T3 build and ran into another minor problem with the rear Shocks. It seems that for one that the spring (Green) hits the turnbuckle and second the 4-40x1/2" screw which is securing the bottom shock to the rear shock mount is the wrong size (too small) for the opening. I can fix the screw size but is the spring supposed to touch the turnbuckle?

The shocks were a bear to build! I had a few burrs which I fixed with a razor blade. I still think I do not have enough oil in them but it does rebound about 1/4" to 3/8" like the manual states.

I am now working on the motor! The kit came with a Reedy DS Motor but the little paper that came with it is worthless! It shows soldering the caps between + and the can and - and the can but the can looks like it won't accept solder. The motor came with 2 caps and 2 screws with washers. I wonder if the screws are what the cap should be soldered to.?

Thanks

[Trucks]

rinkrat, I seem to remember having that problem too, when I checked I had gotten the right hub carrier on the left side and the the left on the right, if you look at them they are marked with an l for left and r for right.

you will have to take ginder or a file and ruff up the can at the spot that you want to attach the cap. that gives the solder something to hang on to. the screw are ment to mount the motor in the truck and will be on the other end of the motor.

[Rinkrat99]

Trucks,

I thought the same thing with Left and Right swapped. Well looking from the rear to the front, (Rear Hubs) the Driver side (Left) is marked L and the Passenger side (Right) is marked R. Same goes for the Suspension Arms. The only thing I noticed is the hub spacers. If I moved them to the other side of the hub carrier I would have the room I think. The kit came with a Reedy DS Racing Motor and a 18 tooth pinion. which indicates a 12 turn modifed based on Associated manual. I can't find this motor on the web anywhere to see what it is. It might be called a Dual Sport which is a 23 turn. It was supposed to be a 27turn Firehawk.

I also have a Speedworks 427 15t double, Speedworks 350 17turn double and a Kyosho 240ST 21turn single.

I also think I did a stupid thing when completly rewirng my ESC. I used 14 AWG (I don't see a problem with this vs 12 AWG), but the wire is more like electrical wirng with fewer strands which makes it less flexible vs a more stranded 14 AWG (more flex). I should have spent the $3 per red/black instead of Home Depots 17ft for $3 red/black.

There is always a tommorrow. BTW I built my own Nicd/NiMH battery charger and all I have to do is put it into a hobby box.

Happy New Year. Did you have an ICQ address?

:cool:

[Trucks]

rimkrat, it must be the spacers, I have all of my trucks spaced so that the carriers are all the way to the front for maxium traction, sence our track gets real slick in the summer.

the ds was listed on ae web site last year and I think I remember it as being a 23 turn. that would be about the right pinion for that motor to. What kit are you putting together that they would include a motor without it already be on he truck?

I have some batteries that I built with that same hard wire and they are a pain to use.

I'm emailing my icq # .:D

[saabcaptain]

To quickly access the servo saver what is the best method? Simply removing the front body mount and then top plate should provide full access right?

Also I noticed the comment about: "the v blocks have a tendency to lock together when tightened down, so I take sandpaper and round the v off so that its not a perfect fit. then add the black grease. I wait till I have the servo in before I tighten down the nut and only tighen it down enough to get the tires to turn all the way to the stops on each side."

Perhaps this will make sense to me when I install the servo (again this is my first RC car...) but how does tightening or loosening the servo saver nut allow or prevent full tire travel to the stop anyway? Also I assume you recommend greasing the servo saver near the end of the build to prevent a lot of mess... but how often do you regrease it?

Thanks again from someone with a lot of dumb questions...

Dave

[Rinkrat99]

Trucks,

The kit was a Basic Plus #7003. It came with Bushings which I will change out in the spring. I was having problems with Tower Hobbies Bearing kit made by Duratrax. It mentioned 17 bearings and then said I needed 2 additional packs of 1/4 x 3/8 for the axels. The hobby shop said the same thing but my axels are actually 3/16" so the 17 bearing kit would work fine.

Its snowing here so I really do not plan on using the truck outdoors till maybe 45+ degrees outside. The locla track here is ashphalt and it really is not for use with Trucks.

See ya

[RustlerBoy]

i hate the T3's steering saver!

[saabcaptain]

Also another mind numbing-ly stupid question about the build of my FT RC10T3... obviously the kit comes with the blue screws in a small bag that isn't labeled "Bag A, Bag B etc." so I haven't used them yet and am about to start the differential. It just kind of hit me that where I saw a screw with a "*" number it ment a blue screw from that bag didn't it? I didn't know the kit would come with the regular AND blue screws for those positions where either could be used ... I assume I should go back and replace the normal screws with the matching blue screws right (shouldn't be hard since it is only like 8 or so screws so far in easy to reach places...)?

Thanks,

Dave

[RC Freak]

1 RRP titanium top shaft
2 IRS lightned outdrives
3 RRP lightned sliper pads
(the three things listed above have made a huge difference in accereration. the blue outdrives hold up just as good as the stock, i put them throught hard start-stop test and put alot of presure on them. they are great. i wish i would have gotten these a year ago when i gt my t3
4 Progressive piggy back resivores, they alsomake a huge difference. my shocks are finally air free.
5 Novak C2 oh i just love it.
6 Trinity Tru Lathe 3. been paying a guy at the track 5 bucks each thime. i run ablout 8 packs a day throught my cars so it got a bit pricey not having a lathe. this is a great lathe and has a great price($170) compared to other lathes.
7 Racers edge 20 amp discharge w/ cut off. works verry well.

just wanted to tell ya how good these parts are

[Trucks]

saabcapain, now that i have found one of my old manuals I can give you the book names and the parts numbers.

the v blocks are the #9155s pictured in step two in bag b on page 5 in my book. and your right about quick access to the servo saver. you can tighten the nut (ring #9157) after you have it all assembled. when I was talking about full lock I ment that the servo would move the wheels all the way to the end of the range of movement with out the servo saver slipping.

i found that same bag when I built mine but I didn't borther to re place them. I guess when I descide to sell it I'll put them on the truck for the new look. lol.

[Rinkrat99]

Well the kits finally doen except for the body. I ran it in the garage tonight and it worked well. Can't go outside since its snowing heavily here. Last problem is that I am concerned with the gear mesh. Gotta go check the helpful hints I read somewhere.

:D

[ttweedle]

Hey, guys I finaly back and able to post on the boards again. Sometimes the U.S. Army decides that they are more important than my hobbies. :rolleyes: Any way Im back and we are having a race this weekend if the snow will hold off...:(

Travis

[ttweedle]

I just got the new Low Profile body for my FTT3. I'll let you know how it goes at the track. I got 4 matched 2400 packs and a rr lightned slipper for christmas myself, next is the light drives, aluminum MIP's, and the titanium top gear. That should lighten the drive train alot. I hope..

travis

[RustlerBoy]

sweet. I didnt get anything rc related for christmas. I got a ton of biking stuff. Maybe next year

[JimmyMac]

Damn hooking some money into that T3 huh Travis! I would do it, but I'm not too sure yet about the future of my T3. I race Touring cars alot. And I'll still race Trucks as long as I live down here. But we'll see. Sounds like some good hop ups for speed and acceleration! Let me know how they work out! Perhaps I'll invest in some....

Jimmy Mac

[gnations]

I just got back into RC Cars after about ten years. I started out back then with a Tamiya Hornet and then bought an rc10. The one with the gold chasis.

I just bought a t3 and am having a little bit of a problem. I just put in a mild modified motor Team Orion 17 turn and was trying some different pinions to see which one would work best. When the car starts moving it is making some loud noise in the rear end. It didn't sound like this when I was using a my Kyosho x-speed stock motor. I immediately took out the car on the bench to see what could be wrong. I didn't really notice anything out of whack. The diff turned freely, no grinding without the tires on. ANy suggestions out there or is this normal? Thanks

Grant

[JimmyMac]

Two things, your diff or your slipper clutch. If you properly tightened you diff the way the instructions said... (all the way tight then back off 1/8 a turn)... it should be just fine. Tighten the slipper and see if that's it. Also check your gear mesh. The pinion is not suppose to ride up onto the spur. There should be some play there. Good way to set it besides the paper meshing way is to select a pinion one tooth higher than what you plan on using. Put it on and mess the pinion gently right up to the spur with very very very little play. Basically just meshed right in there. Tighten the motor down and then take off the pinion. Replace with the one tooth smaller pinion that you wanted to use in the first place.. and..... Whoala!! Perfect gear mesh!! If it doesn't work... maybe you have the gas version? :) If you find out what's wrong. Let us know what it was! Hope this helped out some...

Jimmy Mac

[gmotrek]

I am nw to this board but I noticed you guys talking about getting the light outdrives. First of all if you run mod never run the lightened outdrives because of how fast you will wear them out. The first set I ever got was for my b3 and I severely groved them with in a month of racing. The problem is that aluminum is not a very good material to take surface wear. To get around this you need to use either a pin cushion of some sort or do what I did which was to install Niftech's flat swivel pins. The outdrives have wore very good with the new pins but when I started running the mod races again with them I wore them out fast still. I don't run them in my buggy now just because I haven't gotten another set. The truth is that they make a very small difference in acceleration because of the small radius arm. I have won a many stock A-mains without them but I am sure you are like me and want them more for the cool factor rather than the tiny performance improvement. Below is a list of what I use in my T3:

LRP IPC V7
Futaba 3pjs radio which I love
Hitec hi power 605 metal gear servo
Quarter flash green motor(equivalent to GM)
All the RRP available
RPM everything except front bumper, it can dig in on frontal landings
and I run matched 2000 sanyos

have fun

[Bodido]

Jimmy:

You must be snowed in like me. I was thinking about asking you what your setup was like, but I saw you were in the B last Saturday!?!?! What's up with that? I hope that's you getting slower and not everyone else getting faster. :) Just kidding. You guys have a really fast crowd there, so there's no shame in an OCCASIONAL B. ;) I may be in a lot of trouble on the 29th. Was the A main all Losi? Sounds like they ran it drier than before. What did you think? What tires were working? Holeshots I bet.

[ttweedle]

Well were really snowed in here in Fayetteville so I wont be doing any racing here. And the roads are too bad to go to Goldsboro also. So I guess I'll just wait for another week or so before I can race.

Kilruf

I wish they had a TC Track around here. I would like to get a nice TC. I like the way they look. But until I get more mobile with the family I have to race OffRoad only. I am going to be going TDY in May thru July. Should get about 4 grand for that. I think I will buy a TC or a Nitro Truck. Cant decide which...

oh well later.

Travis

[RustlerBoy]

Wnt to the track today. Its my b-day o!!! im 15. I fried a motor, took apart the tranney, and ran only 6 times in 3.5 hours whikle i wad there!

[JimmyMac]

Yeah the track was nice and dry! It was like racing TC in a parking lot. Just alot of dust on the car! Holeshots were the tire of they day. And AE 1 and 2 in the A-main!! AE is back on top with the brothers racing Rick and Steve. I wasn't racing my truck during this race either. I was my friends FT T3. But that's no excuse anyways hehe. Had my shocks and tranny on it.... :p Plus I ran that MVP I bought at Tidewater? Hampton RC. Used different springs and brushes. But didn't like that combo. Gonna try another combo. I like my P2K better. I did get some low laps times in the 20 range. But Steve and Rick were doin 19's. Yikes..... 15 laps are easy for them! I'm gonna have to smooth out my driving style. Oh yeah, you gonna make it to the 26th Trophy race? Competition is gonna be extremely high for that race! You need to come down before then and get some practice in! Well let me head out....... gotta do find something to do since work is closed... tooo bad.... hehe ;) See ya around!

Jimmy Mac

[saabcaptain]

Well my trinity drivers came today... FINALLY! I can resume my build of my FT T3 and hopefully in a week or so I'll be done... I am sure I'll have plenty of questions in the meantime.

Off to build the diff,

Dave

[RustlerBoy]

itll take u a week to build your T3? I built mine in 6 hours.

Hey, what mod motor would u guys reccomend? I have a Novak Fusion(12 turn limit) and i like the P-94s, retros, and speed gems

[RC Freak]

i run mostly cheap mods b/c they are just for play b/c i race stock truck. i have run a speed gems 17 turn, it has a lot of torcue. speed gems 12 turn, decient torque but mostly top end. Orion rush 13 turn i like it the most great torque and speed. A used d4 10 turn i ran it once with worn out brushes and springs and it needed a comn cutting. i cut it on my lathe and am woiting for the local hobby shop to get the brushes and springs in for it.

[ttweedle]

Kilruf that race is on 26 January? How much to race? What time should I arrive? Stock truck class only. What tires? Let me know I will start working on my wife now...LOL Hopefully she will go for it. I haven't raced in 2 months almost... I need to get my truck back in the mix. I hate spending all this money on it and not using it...I won't run it unless its on a track anymore. Motor maintenance is sorta a pain. lol But you gotta love it.

Travis

[RustlerBoy]

I read that the P-94 is supposed to yeild long run times, while increasing the time when u need to rebuild it,. It thats true?

[saabcaptain]

The FT T3 is my first real RC car so I am going slow in the build, also I am working a lot so I can only get to it here and there...

THAT SAID I have a question:

I just finished building the diff, tranny, clutch, MIP CVDs, and rear shock tower. The shocks are next.

At the completion of the diff I tightened it until just the moment it became very hard to turn (as if the spring bottomed up per the manual) and then backed off the 1/8 turn. The diff then turned very easily but still seemed rougher than if I backed off lets say another turn or so at which point rotating the diff was like glass. I kept the diff at the "tighter" setting which was 1/8 back from bottoming out. DID I DO IT RIGHT?

Next I built the entire tranny and mounted it to the body as described. It seemed quite smooth and pretty quiet. After mounting the MIP CVDs I noticed a lot more noise as I turn the axle and it sounds like a metal clicking but I think it is coming from where the CVD meets the outdrives not from the tranny. Is some metal clicking to be expect or did I do something wrong? It seems very smooth for what it is worth.

Any tips on building the shocks?

Thanks,

Dave

[chance]

Hey ttweedle, Rosewood is racing every Saturday in January. The Winter Bash is the 26th. KilRuf is not joking about how fast those guys are, just running the A would be a worthy goal for your first race at this track.

[chance]

ttweedle, there's a pic of the track in the club/track forum section.

[RustlerBoy]

What u gys think of p-94

[firebladerunner]

rustlerboy I do not like trinity products esp. the mod motors I would suggest a reedy ti based motor (it is a personal thing with trinity they really do make good enough stuff I just think that there is as good or better stuff out there that does not get the recognition that they deserve) I have no experience with the p-94 itself one way or the other

saabcaptain
make a quick trip the the hobby shop and get mip blue seals for the shocks and a tube of green slime. be very carful with the pistons make sure there is no flash on them. other than that just take your time and you will be fine. My t3 also makes a strange ticking noise like you described I doubt it is anything to worry about. plus you can set the diff as loose as possible as long it does not slip!!!!(run it a few time and then readjust the diff)

[JimmyMac]

Hey Travis, Chance... see you found a T3 forum eh? hehe. Anyways, the Race is $20. You should call up the track and registor now if you want a pit space. I think you need your card # as well. (919) 734-7754 is the number for Rosewood RC. Glenn is the guy incharge. Someone named Elwood might be there as well. Track opens around 11am. Registration ends around 2-2:30pm. Racing starts around 3pm. So get there early for practice and pit space (for normal races, pit space should be saved if you have registored.) Bring your P2K and some small pinions. I run a 17/89 and/or 17/87. I also run a MVP. You need torque at this track. I've heard that a box stock setup works good. Depending on track conditions, I'd bring your Step-pins. If the track was as good as it was last Saturday.. get some Holeshots. I think M3 compound is what you need (softer.) Bowties might work as well if you have M3 compound. Your edges up front should work. If you have extra dough, Try Losi Directionals up front (red compound.) Hmmm I think that's about it for now. Anymore questions, just let me know Travis! Take it easy!

Jimmy Mac

[spyderwrksN'=w=]

AE rc10t3 team w/
-rpm gear cover (blue)
-rpm 3 degree rear mounts (blue)
-rpm mini front bumper (black)
-full ball bearings

Tires
-Proline "Edge" Ribbed fronts (w/ rims)
-Proline "Bowtie"
-Proline "Step Pin" (w/ rims)
-Proline sand paddles (w/rims)

*12t mod motor
*Fantom stock motor
*Sanyo 2000 pack
*Novak Racer Ex esc
*Deans plugs on esc and batt.
im starting the pricing at like 155-160, i also have a JR PROPO XR2 but it will be sold seperate.I will consider what you can offer of course. email me (i won't check boards!) at
gratefuldead6565@aol.com

[ttweedle]

Kilruf, What card # are you talking about? Roar membership? or Credit Card #? Any way Seems like a good deal... Is it always 20 to race? BTW my wife bought me a TC3 RTR yesterday. Its pretty cool, but its raining so i have only ran it in the house/garage. I can't wait to put it on some pavement.

Thanks for the information. Later

Travis

[RustlerBoy]

im gonnaa get a 14 turn onyx and some parts for me P2K

[firebladerunner]

if you ever plan to race mod I would definitly save some extra money and get a handwound motor the quality is like night and day. although the machine wound ones are ok to play with. on that note I would get a peak machine wound unlikethe trinitys they made with the top of the can so you could buy just a new armature and basicly have a team type motor.

[JimmyMac]

Travis, # as in Visa, Master.. hehe. $20 for this race, but it's usually $12-15. Wow, what made your wife do that? Did you have to talk her into it? hehe. Sounds pretty cool. Did ya put in one of your Stock motors? Or ya gonna leave in the motor that came with it? TC3's are good cars even though I race a Yokomo and a new XXX-S.. hehe. Hope to see ya at Rosewood sometime!

Jimmy Mac

[thornegreb]

How come no one makes aluminum chassis, shock towers, etc for the t3?

[firebladerunner]

why would anyone want to aluminum has severel distinct disadvanteges when used as chassis and suspension components weight is not the least of witch

[thornegreb]

I dunno, seems like a lot of other trucks have aluminum parts available...maybe it looks nicer. Not everyone is about just going fast I guess.

[firebladerunner]

your right not everyone wants to go fast. however the t3 was made to go fast so lightweight(composite ) is the way to go. however hg does make a few item in aluminum for the t3 no shock towers though or other main chassis pieces

[WheelNut]

I am running a RTR T3 and I have to throw on a ton of shock pre-load spacer to get eh truck to bones lever like 3 thick traxxas ones, why is this? I know that this inst really bad for the truck but it seems under sprung or something???:confused:

[gnations]

For those of you who responded to my earlier question about the loud noise I was hearing in the rear end. I think it was that I had the pinion gear to tight to the spur gear. I readjusted it by using a piece of thin paper between the two and that seemed to fix the problem.

My next question is I just a got a new Reedy motor. It is a 13 turn double wind. The first pinion i used on it was a 19 and I wasn't very impressed with the acceleration or top speed. I like acceleration more than top speed so I dropped down to an 18 tooth pinion and that made a huge difference. I don't know too much about choosing the right pinion. I read in article one time that you should run your car a little while, put you finger on the motor and count to five. If you can hold your finger there all the way to five you can go up or down on the pinion size. Could anyone help me out by explaing this a little more. What pinion size do you recommend for a 13turn double wind motor. Mine is a Reedy Sonic 2. Last question has to do with tires. The track that I practice on ( I have never been in a real race yet) is tight track with one long straightaway. The track seems hardpacked most of the time with alot of dust. I have only seen one electric car at this track and he couldn't even control his car because he was sliding all over the place everytime he got any speed at all. Most of the people there dive these 1/8 scale cars. I had never seen one of these in person before and I couldn't believe what these guys were doing with their cars and how freaking fast those cars were. anayway, What kind of tires do you recommend for a track like this. I appreciate your help and your comment. I am knew to this and reading these boards have really helped me. thanks

[ttweedle]

Gnations most of the time race tracks will wet the track down, this will keep your truck from sliding all over the place. Its amazing the first time your drive on a moistened track surface.
At least I was...:)

Travis

[firebladerunner]

the gearing of motors when you don't have a dyno is not an exact science how ever you can go by a few guidlines I generally start by an educated guess. 5-7 teeth higher than the turn of the motor if it an rpm motor like reedy I would start with 5 with torquy motors like most trinity and gm can start with 7. after that it depends on how it runs on the track you have to balance torque and speed. if you want more acceleration go down if you want more top speed go up. it can take a little trial and error but you will get it. now for tires for the condtions you list I would say either pro-line bow-ties or losi t-bone tires. I found the losi tires hook up better on most tracks but don't count out the pro-lines. and use the sof compound m3 for pro-line and red for losi. stop by your track when there are people there I think you will most of them more than willing to help.

[gnations]

Thanks for the suggestions about the prolin bowties and t-bones. I have been to this track several times to just watch just to see what is what like and if the people that frequented there were friendly. Everyone there was cool and were more than willingly to involve me in their conversations and answer my questions. Like I said before, most of the people there race gas cars and 1/8 scale. I haven't been when there have been many electric cars. There was one guy there with a t-maxx that had bowties on all four tires who seemed to be hooking up the best.

Do I need to put bowties on all four tires or should I put the stock blades on the front? Thanks and I am anxious to see how it goes next time I go out to Houston.

[R/C_12]

what i did was held the right wheel and spun the left wheel, then it got kinda hard to turn. When i set the car on the ground and tried to push it, it would move...like the tires were locked up. How do i get it to loosen up again???

Thanks

[RustlerBoy]

Changed my mngd. I am going to go to the Rc show in feburary at the Puyallup fair instead. I can get awsome stuff for chap!

[firebladerunner]

I would just put the bowties on the rear and use the stock up front.

rc-12
I am not sure what your problem may be sound like either the diff is to tight or you have a frozen bearing somewhere. I would say check that

[Trucks]

gnations, I would sugget that you also get a set of proline step pins. if there is any dust on the rack you will need the smaller points to dig down thru the dust to the hard surface, where the bowties tend to ride in top of the dust a little more.

[TyceCCSU@aol.com]

RC 12,
It sounds like you have your diff installed backwards. Make sure the diff is on the right side of the truck, with the rear tires at your feet and front tires furthest away from you. To solve that, p rotate the left tire as you did before, notice if you turn in one direction the diff gets tighter, and in the other direction looser. The most simple solution is to tear the tranny down and rebuild. Check the bearings for free rotation, check to make sure the idler shaft pin didn't slip out of position so that a greater portion of it is locked into the tranny casing (had that happen before due to an over used pin with many miles on it!). The T3 manual is pretty through in describing how to rebuild/build the tranny. Go through it again and follow it to the "t". I only vary one thing, as do many other veteran racers, we don;t back off the diff 1/4 or an 1/8, we prety much lock it down. After rebiulding them for 10 years, you get a nack for how much you should torque the screw. Locking it down to a CERTAIN degree will actually allow you to not worrie about it until it's time to rebuild.

G-Nations,
The reason the other guys, such as the 1/8, T-Maxx, and gas guys are using bowties on the front, or any pinned tread, is for the mear reason that there cars are 4 wheel drive. They need to use those type of tires for positive traction, which they can even do then cornering under acceleration. 99% of the time, 2 wheel drive trucks need to use "ribbed" front tires to "cut" the dirt for a positive rate of turn. Something like Proline's "Blades M2 or M3" compound fair well on 99.9% of the tracks. Again, since your front wheels are not rotating, via a power source (4wd), you need a hard compound that will dig/cut/scrap/push into the track.

[TyceCCSU@aol.com]

I would agree with "Trucks", use the proline step pins. Most tracks, when racing, water the track before heats making the track a little eaiser to manuever. Tracks like that have a tendency to become "blue groove", that is there is a difinate line where the cars/trucks are going and push the lose dirt aside leaving the packed dirt/clay for the mains. Step pins are beautiful solution to this issue, you have an all around hard compound tire with long spikes to dig through the soft dirt/clay while on the other hand you can use the the Step-pins (the mini pins at the end of the larger pin) when the track becomes blue groove. In addition, bowties are really for loose dirt, the kind of dirt you would race on if it were just unearthed, it has that black color to it. Most race tracks have either clay or older dirt that is weathered and rarely replaced with fresh organic dirt/clay. For this reason, the top layer becomes lite and "dusty", yet when watered you get a good "bite/traction" from it. However, when the groove has been raced over the course of a day, with more than just Electric trucks, the track surface hardens, and you need a harder compund tire. The Proline step-pins come in either M2 or M3 compound, go for the harder compound which i think is the M2, some hobbie shops don;t carry them because the labels on the tires are identical and the only way to tell the compound type is through experience or the package label. Either one will suit you just fine, the harder will last longer and depending on your track may be the fine tuning adjustment you need.

[TyceCCSU@aol.com]

G-Nations,
The 5 second rule is great if your 12years old or don't have a clue. However, Associated recemends a 19 tooth pinion, you can venture higher, somewhere in the range of 21-22 tooth pinion would be the MAX!! Anything over than and your going to blow that bad boy. Also, if your trying to impress your buddies and take it out on the street, you can put any size pinion as long as your going straight and taking the corners at a reasonable speed. Contrary to belief, if you run your motor at full tilt for 5 mins it'll be hotter than if you stop and go. Well truth is, static friction is greater than dynamic friction so every time you hammer the throttle at low rpm or dead stop, your drawing high rpms to get the motor up to max speed. This results in high amp/current draw which is the primamry cause for heat. Anyway....if your racing on dirt, try a 19, 20, 21 tooth pinion and 87 spur combination. Leave the stock springs and brushes in and don;t fix the timing, keep it at the factory setting. If you buddie up with someone at the track with modified motor experience, let him show you how to tune a mod motor, it's an art!!

General rules of thumb for motors
-Larger pinion, more top speed, less torque
-Smaller pinion, less top speed, more torque
-If your motor is hot, it may be ok. Check the comm for burns, if it's badly damaged, gear down
-Same Gear ratio different spur/pinion combination - say you have a 87 spur, 19 pinion, 2.4 (T3 Tranny ratio), the final drive ratio would be (87/19)*2.4 = 11
Then you have a 78 spur, 17 pinion, 2.4 tranny ratio this is equal to (78/17)*2.4 = 11
Both are the same final output but they act much differently. smaller spur will spool up faster, meaning the motor will get up to speed faster. A larger spur gear will have more torque. These are fine tuning elements of gearing.

[gnations]

Thanks for all the advice. I got to wait on some parts to come in and then I will see how all this works out. I am looking forward to trying my car out on the track.

[RustlerBoy]

what type of parts are u waitong for?

[gnations]

I had to order a new spur gear because it got all ate up when I didn't get the gear mesh right. I also ordered me some new tires cause I wore the bowties the car came with out by running it out on the street. I am going to pick up some step pins and another set of bow ties. I think they will work best with my track.

I also picked up some shock rebuilding kits cause two of my shocks I cannot keep oil in them for some reason and I have tried rebuilding them several times and I ended up cutting a couple of the red/orange rubber rings. I am going to be away on business all week next week so it is going to be awhile before I get to mess with the car, probably not till next week. Hopefully the parts will be in by that time. I don't have a lhs and I have to order everything through towers or horizonhobby.

[RustlerBoy]

spur gears piss me off

[R/C_12]

TyceCCSU- Thanks, Im going to mess around with the tranny today and maybe a little at the track tomorrow. I think it was gear mesh since when i took the motor off it spins free (duh!:rolleyes: ) Any way.

Questions: 1) Anyone used the Pro-line "Gladiators"? HobbyTown was all out of step pins so i thought I'd use tire that was similar. Not sure if they will work good but atleast they will last an extreme amout of time. Once again the question was "anyone evr use pro-lines gladiator tires?"

2) Anyone used the SpeedGems 2 motor? is this a mod motor? what turn is it? I cant find any info on it. I looked at it saw it was rebuildable but i dont know anything about it! Thanks!

-Tyler:)

[R/C_12]

To The Top:D

[Trucks]

rc12, soeme of the guys at my traack run the gladators, if I remember right they worked well when the track was wet. it really doesn't matter how big the tread is on the tire, when the edge is worn off the spikes the tire tends not to work as well as because it doesn't cut into he dirt.

yes speed gems are mod motors, but there are many kinds. Someone might know if you can tell us what color the can is. or if it has screws in the end bell where you can disasemble it there might be scratched into the arm somewhere.

[R/C_12]

This thread started to take off and then all of the suddenit dies again. HMMMMMMMmmm:rolleyes:

-Tyler

PS: Thanks trucks I'll try to see what turns it is thanks for the information. By the way i fixed my rolling problem. The gear mesh was waaayyy to tight. I got the truck to roll really smooth now. These gladiator tires are like tractor tires compared the my edge fronts! :P

[TimmyRC10T3]

I am sorry to hear the thead is dying. I am going to try to post more here. At my track which is packed clay most of the guys run holeshots or step pins. I am also going to try a P2k 2 motor in my truck. What gearing do you guys think I should use. The track is 140X80. The website is www.americanraceway.com. Hopefully you can come in join us. Located in Englishtown, NJ

AE Rulz

[Calico Jack]

I just got into this hobby and have been running a P2K w/ a 22 pinion on an 87 spur. When I run a GM3 I use a 20 pinion. Both motors end up at about the same temperature after a run.
By the way, what is the difference between a P2k and a P2k2?

[Adam202]

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=68484 theres a link to my new used T3.
I plan on putting quite a bit of money into it. right now im running a 9 turn triple reedy fury modified millenium edition motor with novak tempest max esc, and 20 teeth pinion gear, right now it tops out at like 40 and takes no time to get there, im goign to get a 24 teeth pinion but with that motor it wears down my battery way to fast, whats a good motor that is pretty quick and makes batterys last?
Adam

[firebladerunner]

I would get a reedy TI motor probably a 12 dbl. you should have very close to the same speed but it will be a lot easier on batteries and brushes

[Adam202]

i also wanna get a stock motor, whats a good stock motor? i was thinking p2k2 but im not sure, i wanna race in a stock class so what would be good for that.
thxs
Adam

[RustlerBoy]

WELL JEEZ! of course the batteries run fown fast!@ The instruction manual says to run like a 18 tooth for a 9 turn! what would you expect from a 9 turn? to run 10 mins?


Stock motor. P2K is the best

[Adam202]

well GEEZ, did i say it would last long NO, and i boought it used and it came with that motor so settle down buddy. why do you think im going to get a few different motors.

[Adam202]

well soon i should have about 100 dollers more to put into my truck, i plan on getting rims-20$, body-20$, parts-20$ and a p2k2 pro-30$, i will have new pics up with that stuff, now hopefully the lady that wants my snowboard for 100$ will want it, we will see on monday, otherwise it will be up on ebay.

[RustlerBoy]

sorry, i didnt mean to be rude.

Im getting an RS4 rally!!!

[Adam202]

Its cool dont worry about it

[Rinkrat99]

Hey guys,

I need some advice on which Pinion to use on the following for having some fun on ashphalt then on a possibly frozen dirt road.

The motors will be

24 degree Stock
21t single
16t Double

Thanks

BTW - The manual recc a 20 for all three motors. Thats a bit wierd. Also, the packs are 6 cell 1500 mAH

[Adam202]

i was wondering if it does, its like 25-30 degrees farenhiet and i just timed my battery life, riding it hard and taking it easy some and i got 4 minutes. i thought that was pretty good for what im running. i cant get enough of this truck its so sweet.