AE T3 Forum v1.0

[Adam202]

well i got some Pro-line blade m3 tires in the front, they get such better traction than the stryker 2s on pavement, well i took my old stryker 2s and since there is snow and ice on top of the snow it can hold my truck up, so i studded my stryker2's with small screws and wow it is so fun, i can get quite a bit of traction. i wish i had a video its so fun, theres hills and you can drive all over them on ice. hopefully i will be able to get a video tommrow. only prob is my front tires slide and when i hit it wide open they push i wanna stud some front tires too.
Adam

[RustlerBoy]

i got a Reedy fury 12 turn. i have a 2400 matched pack and three 1500 batts. I need some 4-5 minute long runtimes though with the least amount of money. I looked at the Peak Performance 2400 e-maxx batteries which are 40 for two of them. Anyone 6tried them?

[firebladerunner]

I like peak stuff although I don't have those pack I would think any decent 2400 pack will give plenty of run time as long as you are geared right

[Adam202]

I fried my F*cking speed control today, Tempest Max esc, i wrapped up my electronics, im thinking the wires were yanked on by me to hard and one got loose and started melting my wires, or it got wet. smoke started pouring out when i unwrapped it and tryed it again. im never riding in snow again. this sux, i need a 55 doller charger and a speed control.

[RustlerBoy]

I found an Integy 2400 that is matched, has 420 seconds of runtime, and has n average voltage of 1.17 for 35 bucks. It only needs to be build. Sounds any good? I like the stats it has, but is it what i would need for stock racing and occasional mod running?

[TimmyRC10T3]

If you are going to be racing stock get 2400's. If you are going to race modified get 3000's. I forget who makes the but they are for the E-Maxx. They are 2400's teo for like 50.00 bucks. I hear they work good.

Does anyone have aluminum screws on the truck and how do they like them.

[Adam202]

i was thinking on getting the Lpr F1 pro reverse speed control, its no turn limit, it has reverse and its 100$ on towershobbies. anybody know if this is any good?, im sure it is but just checking, this sux, i spent the last of my money making my truck sweet and the expensivest part breaks.

[TimmyRC10T3]

I have the LRP reverse but the 54.99 one. I have had it about 2 1/2 years and haven't hadany major problems with it. The other day I jump of a 6 foot cliff and landed on my roof. The heatsink fell off but I put it back on. If you can put a tierap around the esc. I think you will be fine with any LRP or Novak speed controller.

[TimmyRC10T3]

I have the LRP reverse but the 54.99 one. I have had it about 2 1/2 years and haven't hadany major problems with it. The other day I jump of a 6 foot cliff and landed on my roof. The heatsink fell off but I put it back on. If you can put a tiewrap around the esc. I think you will be fine with any LRP or Novak speed controller.

[RustlerBoy]

I found a Team Orion matched 3000 for 40 bucks. I race stock, but want to get some long runtimes for a mod, so i can choose between a 3000, the Trinity 2500, or the matched 2400 with 420 secs of run time. I cant spend more than 40 though

[Adam202]

i got good news, im sending in my Novak tempest max and there givign me a new one for 43 dollers. i think thats way more worth it than buying a brand new one.

[DaMaXXer]

Hey anyone trying to buy a T3. I have a like brand new T3 Team updated kit almost RTR email me at Nitrokid116@aol.com if interested

[RustlerBoy]

went to the track. Bought a Trinity stock metal hdride battery for 30 bucks!!!!

[T3Todd]

I'm running a FT T3 ( I think I'm the only one at PNT hobbys racing one, everyone else is racing losi stuff).. I decided to lube my gears. I raced last Friday and had a lot of fun, but now I have what sounds like a lot of dirt in my tranny. Is this dirt or could it be my differential being run to loose?? I've tightened once about 2 weeks ago and things were fine. If it is dirt, is there any way of preventing it from entering my tranny?? Or is it just normal to have to rebuild ones tranny after every race?? Should I run my tranny dry?? Will this help keep dirt out of my gears, keeping my tranny smooth??

Please help..

Todd..

[Calico Jack]

Todd,

You should run the gears in your tranny dry. try this link for a good rebuild procedure.
[URL=http://www.gj.net/~geerhed/CopyOfNitroindFrame1Speed_Secret.htm]

[T3Todd]

It turns out that I decided to just rebuild the tranny. I cleaned everything with motor spray and just oiled my bearing. I do have sealed bearings, they came with the kit. I believe that the noise was either coming from the diff being a little too loose or a little dirt inbetween the plactic holes that the out drives come through. But everything is great now. I ran the truck at the track yesterday and the thing flew. It was even quieter than it was with lub in the tranny. Very Very smooth action. I'm sure I'm going to give all the guys that run Losi (which is everyone at my track) a run for thier money.

Thanks again,
Todd

[RustlerBoy]

the only thing i would ever put on my gears would probably be aero car diff lube, and still, i probably would run them bone dry, just because it says too!

[EnerGie]

I have a FT T3 with
Tekin 420 ESC
Jr radio control system
Trinity D4 10 turn motor

[Porsche]

Sounds nice energie. I need to know if any one knows of a T3 screw kit that includes all screws. I bought a Blue t3 associated kit, but it does not have all the screws. I was also wondering if any one has tried those blue bearings on e-bay.
Hope everyone has great racing!!!!
Christopher Owens:D

[WheelNut]

there probably missing some for strength since steel screw are way stronger they had to use em in some places.

Does any body know if any one makes a heat sink/finned motor plate for the T3 or a clip on heat sink sink that fits???? Or if there are any companies that make a heat sink battery strap?

[Rinkrat99]

Hi all!

I am having difficulties setting up my slipper and diff.

I am running a 15x2 motor with 16t pinion. The tranny still has the bushings but when I need to go into the gearbox I have the bearings for replacement.

PROBLEM: I am running on a dirt street using bowties. From a standing position, the car spins the tires and pulls way to the left. I loosened my slipper an 1/8 turn from the initial manual spec. What should I do to get this to run straight from the start?

Loosen the Slipper?
Tighten/Loosen the Diff?

Thanks

[RustlerBoy]

what do u guyz use to carry your side x side packs and your saddle packs, becauae they will short in your box

[GoFaster]

Here is my setup:


T3 Team updated(almost 2 yrs old) with:
Graphite chassis
graphite shock towers
graphite supension arms
RPM bumpers(great)blue
RPM blue gear cover
LRP 7.1 ESC
Airtronics 94257 servo
AE silver springs
(2) 2400 packs
(2) 2000 packs(best)
(2) 1500 packs(bashing)
cheapo Dynamite Vision Peak charger
cheapo Futaba Magnum Junior radio/receiver
(3) p2k's
midnight 2 stock
D4 15Td
several sets of tires/rims

Hopefully I can get a new charger and Radio soon.

[Porsche]

RustlerBoy
I use boxes from wal-mart to hold my batt. They have divides. They are in the tool section. You can fit 6 batt in a box. They are aout $4 for 2 boxes. They work great!!!
Thanks foryour time,
Christopher Owens:D

[gnations]

I busted my servo this past weekend. The servo I busted was the standard servo that comes with Futaba radios. I have read about a good Hitec High Torque servo that isn;t too expensive. Does any know which one i am talking about or can offer me any suggestions on which servo I should buy. Also, will I need to buy an attachment in order to plug in a different brand servo into a futaba receiver. Thanks

Nations

[RustlerBoy]

I run the hitec mg servo. I also have futaba gear. Just switch the plug and there u go!

[oodlesonoodles2001]

sorry look down.

[oodlesonoodles2001]

hey, been a while scince i posted here, but my T3 is bein wierd, i popped a new spur in last weekend, and checked the mesh and all, its all perfect, turn on the truck get about 1-2 runs and then half the spur is missing! i think it may be the pinion, but the slipper is tightened down, and the diff is rebuilt and set correctly, so im gonna try a new pinion/spur, what gearing for my 15 Turn? BTW: i want it to get some speed but not sacrafice too much acceleration. I also dont want to overload the ESC (LRP F1 Super Reverse).

[RustlerBoy]

!8 or 19 tooth, depending on the capacity of your battery. 19 for high capacity, 18 for lower

[Porsche]

I am putting a Fantom 14*3 on my T3. I was wondering what my minion adn spur should be. I need the acceleration more than top speed. The track has alot fo turns!!!
Thanks for your time,
Christopher Owens:D

[Rinkrat99]

Well I guess noone here had any input to this message
*******************
Traction problem
Hi all!

I am having difficulties setting up my slipper and diff.

I am running a 15x2 motor with 16t pinion. The tranny still has the bushings but when I need to go into the gearbox I have the bearings for replacement.

PROBLEM: I am running on a dirt street using bowties. From a standing position, the car spins the tires and pulls way to the left. I loosened my slipper an 1/8 turn from the initial manual spec. What should I do to get this to run straight from the start?

Loosen the Slipper?
Tighten/Loosen the Diff?
*********************
Well I rebuilt the diff and discovered I was missing the Diff Spring. I bought a new one but now the 2-52 diff bolt does not seem long enough to screw the two halves together with the spring in place. Any suggestions?

Thanks

[Porsche]

Rinkrat99
I had the problem with my T3 Diff. IT was pulling to one side. I had to tighten my diff. On side was to loose. I do not know about your other problem but if I knew I would tell you!!
Thanks for all your time,
Christopher Owens

[Rinkrat99]

Well I found my missing Diff Spring. It was stuck in the outdrive hub. It compressed downward and then also outward to lodge it in there.

So I will rebuild tonight after a good cleaning and then check the operation.

[RustlerBoy]

Same with my diff. I hate it. It clicks whenever i turn on the road

[pudder]

I might be getting a T3, how do you all like yours?

-mike

[Poolboy51]

Tradin' in the ol' evader for a T3 aye? Maybe you might wanna get a 12th scale or onroad car for your carpet track.

[pudder]

Tracking me or something. :rolleyes: I don't want a pancar, they are too fast for me, I like trucks.

-mike

[Poolboy51]

Originally posted by pudder
Tracking me or something. :rolleyes:

LMAO:D :D I just saw your name on the newest post thing and I figured you posted in the "Evader" forum but you were in the T3 forum so I figured I might as well post something.

[TimmyRC10T3]

I think you are making a good decision pudder. I love my T3. I have a stock motor and it is still fun to drive. They go though grass well and are good one the street with the right tires. The are in my opinion the best Racing trucks made. They are very durable also. Besides haveing to get a metal gear servo and replacing 2 rear a-arm mounts the truck is great. I hope my new RPM a-arm mounts will help when racing starts. Hop-ups and parts are available almost every where and set-up help can be found easily. If you have the money get the FT T3. You will thank youaself later. Let us know what you get.

[Kyle_thiessen]

i like mt t3 just fine thx and ur making a good choice......

-Kyle

Nice one pudder............................

[Kyle_thiessen]

hey pudder dont get the 1/12 scale pan caar or the touring car for the carpet track, they suck a lot more than the gear box or a truck. Kuz u cant drive them out-side. At least not the pan car anyway.

-Kyle.............................................. .........

[RustlerBoy]

Puddr. U will lobve the T3, i guarantee it!

[pudder]

Sometimes if my friend here is a bit immature, just ignore that, I am NOT going to get a pancar, I want a truck, that is what I stick to.

Thanks for any of the comments all.

-mike

[Kyle_thiessen]

Hey rusteler u got a t3?? i do and i like it a lot and i think you r making the right choice in telling him that he will like it. Do u have a t3?? if so email me and we'll talk about them. hey mines FULLY LOADED TO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


-Kale


Kyle_thiessen01@hotmail.com

anyone else with a t3 u can mail me to and talk about it.....

[Poolboy51]

How is asking if you want a pan car immature?:confused:

[pudder]

Oh in many ways my friend. ;) I don't know.

Sorry.

-mike

[Kyle_thiessen]

hey poolboy hes talking about me not u im his friend hes talking about and i alraedy told him off for it...later...

[Poolboy51]

Pudder-
your right. He is immature.:rolleyes:

[Porsche]

I love my T3 and I have not even got to drive it yet. I just finished it this past week and am getting my cyclone in about a week so i will be ready to roll. I was hoping to have pic s by the end of this past week but I could not get the camera. It looks nice. IT is almost all blue!!! Get one they are lots of fun top hopo up!!!! And they look fun to drive!!! I will tell you how everything works out!!
Thanks for all your time,
Christopher Owens

[pudder]

He just got into the hobby a few days ago and doesnt even have his radio and ESC in yet, but welcome to this hobby, and have fun. Like I said, just take out the immaturity, and it's okay. :D J/K

-mike

[Poolboy51]

yeah. For a few posts there I thought I was talking to a couple of 5-year olds.:rolleyes: Oh well. I don't even own one so I probably won't post anymore on this thread (Unless of course someone says something about me:mad: )


SEE YA

PS
Have Fun

[pudder]

A COUPLE, c'mon, I don't act like that!

-mike

[Porsche]

pudder who is new to this hobby?//
Thanks
Chrisotpher Owens
Drive it like you stole it!!!!

[T3Todd]

Hi all.. Well, I finally broke a part on my T3. It only took 5 weeks or racing.. Man this is an awsome truck.

Question...
I Broke my rear suspension mount PN(9267). I replaced it with a new RPM suspension mount. In the instructions it says it maintains all the factory settings. Does this mean it already have the 1.5 degrees of anti-squat in it, or do you have to reinstall the washer????

Thanks,

Todd..

[pudder]

Kyle_thiessen is new to this hobby.

If it says factory settings, well it probably would be the same as the part w/o the washer in.

-mike

[Poolboy51]

Originally posted by pudder
A COUPLE, c'mon, I don't act like that!

-mike
I might give YOU 8 years old. re-read the posts and you might see why.

[Porsche]

T3todd
I got the blue ones at 3 degree and I want ahead and put the washers in. I do not know for sure but that is what I did. I will tell you how it drives thursday for my first day on the track. Hope everone has a great week!!!
Christopher Owens:D

[Porsche]

I need to know what ya';; like to run on the front and back. I have silver on back but I do not like them. What should I be running??
Thanks
Christopher owens:D

[TimmyRC10T3]

When I am bashing I use Gold Springs becuase they are stiff. The let my truck stay high after going over jumps and stuff. I run 30wt-40wt shock oil. When I start racing I am going to use the Green ones like everyone else. It all depends on what you are going to use your truck for. I like harder springs in the rear becuase mine seems like it sags sometimes.

[Porsche]

That is what is wrong with mine. It does sag and does not come back to its regular position arter wards. So should I use green on back. If so what color for the front???
Thanks for all your help,
Christopher owens:D

[Porsche]

I am using it to race on a dirt track that has a five foot jumt and a table top and a back straight away. Some other litle things around the track but those are the major things. ALso My front end is high off the ground. Is that because of my shocks??
Thanks
Chrisotpher owens:D

[pudder]

Chris-This may sound stupid if you havent already checked this, but are your front shocks on front, and rear on rear? Otherwise adjust the preload thing, I think there is a little thing at the top of the spring with a hex on it, and move that lower so it is higher and doesn't sag. It is okay to sag a bit if your on carpet track, but since you are on an offroad one, you will want to be a bit stiffer, like Timmy said, so your truck will keep high and not bottom out, but it is better to use a thinner shock oil so that you will bounch back up fine, and have quick response. :)

-mike

[RustlerBoy]

Hey, it could happen that u have your shocks backwards. Are you using the kits soft green springs? Did you put the rear springs in the front shocks? That coula happen. I have been known to ry stupid stuff, and i have triesd that before, but it seems to work well for my track in my backyard, but at the real track, thats a different story!

[T3Todd]

I Broke my rear suspension mount PN(9267). I replaced it with a new RPM suspension mount. The new mounts make the rear suspension arms fit tight. Really tight. They don't just flop up and down like the other ones did.. They kind of stick in one place. My truck does still rebound when pushed down, but should I sand the mounts down so my suspension arms move up and down freely or does it really matter..

Any help would be great...

Todd...

[TimmyRC10T3]

I broke my rear a-arm mounts a couple times too. I have a set of the RPM ones. I haven't put the on my truck yet. I would say for you to file them. Also how do you like them. Are the stronger then stock. I was thinking about puting them on before I go racing but not if there is going to be suspension problems with them.

[RustlerBoy]

Just try putting an 1/8th inch drill bit or file in it and spinning it a couple of times. That should remove most, if not all, of the binding.

Have fun!

[T3Todd]

I was racing awsome this weekend and half way through the A-main (My first one actually) I lost the screw out of one of my rear shocks taking me out of the race... I understand that's just the way it goes sometimes.

The question....

Is there anything I can do to keep this from taking me out of racing again?? Is there anyway I can use a longer bolt and use a locking nut on the back side, or would that mess something up?? Should I just lock-tight all my shock bolts from now on?? If I do that, how would I change shock postions without striping out my bolts from the lock-tight?? Anybody have any suggestions???

Thanks again for all your help with my questions.. I hope to one day contribute with some knowledge of my own...

[pudder]

It is okay, we all have to learn somewhere. I see on my friends T3, (I have Evader) he has what you said, a screw with a nut on the other side, all you have to do is set it up so it won't screw up.

-mike

[T3Todd]

So it won't screw up?? What does that mean?? Please give more detail..

[RustlerBoy]

I just put a bigger screw in there. Or just stick a screw throuhg the back, and put a nut on the fornt, theer u go.

[dan7532]

Sorry if I am changing the subject, but do proline dirt hawgs have good grip on regular off-road racetracks? I want to run a T3 on the racetrack and the pavement. Should I get two sets of tires (one set for the track, one for the street) or would it be simpler to get just one set that works for both?

[Adam202]

wel my b-day is coming up in about a month and this is what im getting.
DuraTrax Sanyo RC-2400 6 Cell Flat Standard 52.99
Associated Sonic 2 12T Double 59.99
DuraTrax IntelliPeak AC/DC Pulse Charger 54.99
Hitec/RCD HS-605MGJ Ultra Torque Servo MG Futaba 39.99
Associated 48P 87T Stealth Spur Gear 3.89
Associated Racing Pinion 19T 48P 5.79
Pro-Line Rear Velocity Dish 2.2 T2/3 7.19
Pro-Line Front Velocity Dish 2.2 T2/3 7.19
Associated Rebuild Kit New Shocks (4) 3.89
Associated Titanium Turnbuckle 10GT/T2/T3 26.99
Associated CVD Rebuild Kit T2/T3 7.99
Combined total- 270$
with everything i have for my truck including the list above its over 1000 invested.
My truck will be bad ass!, i should be getting my Tempest Max back from novak electronics soon. with what i got and what im getting id like to see a T3 better than mine!
Adam

[pudder]

Originally posted by dan7532
Sorry if I am changing the subject, but do proline dirt hawgs have good grip on regular off-road racetracks? I want to run a T3 on the racetrack and the pavement. Should I get two sets of tires (one set for the track, one for the street) or would it be simpler to get just one set that works for both?

They should have fair grip on and offroad but I would get a separate set for each. I don't know for offroad, but onroad the Pro-Line Road Hawg II's are killer, and look sexy.

-mike

[WheelNut]

gross you think your cars tires are sexy?! :eek: :D :p :confused: :rolleyes: :( ......

[pudder]

Look up sexy in the RC Zone rc terms thing, lol. Only sexy if there is a full set ;) but I cant find one. :(

-mike

[Porsche]

I was wondering what gearing I should use. I have a Fantom 14*3 mod and I need pinion and spur gear ratio. I will be thankfull for any help!!!
Thanks
Christopher Owens:D

[GoFaster]

Just a suggestion:

try 17 or 18 pinion with a 87t spur.

I use the 18 with a 15 turn with no problem.
:D

[pudder]

My friend loves his new T3 truck. We go drive it out in the snow all the time. Though the rear end is really light on it, anything we could do to make it stop spinning out so much? Lead weight?

-mike

[RustlerBoy]

I love drivinh in tye snow! Ir is so much fun and hones your driving skills!

[pudder]

My friend has a problem, he says that is truck doesnt look like it is steering fully. I don't really know what it is on his T3, but it should be about as much as my Evader. His radio dual rate is at the farthest. He hasa JR XR3. Some suggestions please.

-mike

[Adam202]

Well driving in snow is fun until you frie your speed control unless you wrap it up right, ive seen 3 Esc's get fried in the past 3 weeks from snow. mine my brothers and my friends. i say screw snow i like ice better, i got studded tires all the way around and its so sweet.
Adam

[RustlerBoy]

Ouch!

Try switching the acerman, or just make sure your servo will get full travel

[pudder]

That must suck. I never have done anything to protect my ESC in the snow. I am not going to use my racetruck in the snow anymore because it gets dirty and I need it clean for onroad racing. I just take my beater Kyosho truck out and only protet my reciever because it is the only one I have and need for racing.

-mike

[ScMc]

should i stick with the stock shocks that come with the pre-built or should i upgrade? thanks

[pudder]

They are the aluminum ones right, those are some of the best shocks around! Keep 'em!

-mike

[ScMc]

great thanks!

[pudder]

RCCA said the blue alu Ass. shocks are great and long lasting, and the gold ones are super and really long lasting. :D I have DuraTrax Evader, just like to help out this thread though, mine are bottom loading Losi style shocks.

-mike

[RustlerBoy]

The stock shocks should be fine. The bklue ones are the same as the anodized grey-green ones, just diff colors

[ScMc]

this post doesnt get much traffic LOL

[RustlerBoy]

Your right, the Evader topic just started, and it has more than the age old T3 forum!

[T3Todd]

Well, i'm out of the novice class now and am moving up to the stock class. I'm looking forward to the compitition. Maybe down the rode I'll be racing Mod truck, but I don't really think i'm financialy ready for that feat yet..

Here's the questions. Now that i'm in stock class i'm going to have to upgrade to some faster components (speed control, batteries, and probably have to by a com lathe)..

Which com lathe should I buy??? I know I shoud proabably get a diamond bit right off the bat, but I don't have a ton of money to play with.

I'm looking at the LRP 7.1 speed control, possibly the quantum, or maybe a Cyclone TC2. I don't know about the Cyclone because I don't have the money to spend on the darn computer thing you need to set the thing up, and I already have a charger so I don't need to buy the Novac Ionic charger that can also set the TC2 speed control up.


Well, i'm off to work again to make money so I can race my trucks on the weekends.. I look forward to the new challenges that stock class will bring.

Keep it smooth and in the groove,
Todd..

[pudder]

The LRP Quantnum (sp?) is super tiny, smaller than a reciever, it is cool, no heatsinks either and I think can go down to 5t motor. All of the Novak's are good.

Get some matched 2400's or 3000's.

-mike

[RustlerBoy]

speed control: Quantum or TC2
batteries: Trinity matched 2400 or 3000
Lathe: Trinity 3 or the Hudy lathes

[Furious!!]

I invite you to join a dedicated T3 forum I know of. None of this one thread per vehicle stuff.

randyrathbun.org/forum/ (http://randyrathbun.org/forum/)

[ttweedle]

T3 Todd, I have a FTT3, and I have a Novak Cyclone C2, you don't need anything special to run it. It has 3 different settings, stock, modified and drag break. I love it. I can run modified 12t doble, for 7 mins on hv3000's and this thing isn't even warm. As for a Comm lathe I would suggest a Hudy Advance. Its a good lathe. I use a carbide bit with mine and it cuts just as good as diamond, it will just wear out before a diamond will, but I can buy like 6 bits before I will have spent as much as for a diamond one. Any way for racing stock, just get the best batteries you can and around 2-3 good stock motors. I usually run 4 batts per motor. so If i practice with one I will change it out before racing. Anyway get bearings if you don't have em. And then practice as much as possible. Good Luck.


BTW the cyclone TC is for Touring Cars hence the TC designation...

Travis

[jtht3]

I am a new T3 owner, and could use some forum help. Following a hard front end bash, my transmission makes a pronounced whine. The noise increases and decreases with speed, and the wheels no longer spin freely when the rear end is elevated. The right rear wheel (inside) is also almost touching the bottom of the shock. Aside from becoming a more skilled driver and avoiding these mishaps, any advice on what this problem might be, and how to fix it?????? Thanks.:)

[RustlerBoy]

you mayt have crushed a bearing. Take it to the hobby shop, or tae your front end and rear end apart and clean and look at everything.

[Adam202]

look at how close your pinion and spur gear are, space them apart correctly and it should stop. thats what happends when i take a nasty landing and hit my motor.
Adam

[jtht3]

Thanks for the advice, I will follow up with a post when work is completed. Appreciate the direction.:) :) :)

[RustlerBoy]

Yeah, plz tell us what happenswhen u fix it

[Adam202]

well i was running my truck today, to my suprise with my friends peak charger with a shark 1500 pack i got 7 mins run time with my p2k pro and 17/87 gearing. i bent my rear tierod jumping today to, it was bent on each side of the threads., pretty bad too.
Adam

[Notnerb]

Whats the difference between a Team Kit Updated and a Team Built (besides CVDs)? Thanks.

[GoFaster]

From the top of my head:

Team built:
-the shocks are not hard anodized
-no bearings

[RustlerBoy]

body, shocks, bearings, CVD's, color fo things.

[Porsche]

I need to know what spur and pinion gear to use in my T3. I am running a Fantom 14*3. Please help!!!!
Thanks for all your time,
Christopher owens:D

[mtn bkr]

I checked out my T3 manual, and it recommends a 20 tooth pinion with a 14 turn motor. It really depends on where it's being driven though. Are you driving it on a track? I think that I'd give an 18 or 19 tooth pinion a shot to start off with.

[Porsche]

Thanks!!!
I am driving it ona track. It has one straight away and several turns and jumps.
Thanks for all your time and any sugestions on spur gears??/
thanks
Christopher Owens

[RustlerBoy]

Ie a 19 tooth then. U will get more power and acceleration out of the corners, and u will beable to clear the doubls if there r any

[RustlerBoy]

I am buying a new Integy 16x3 charger and a Trinity P-94 16 turn motor in 3 weeks!

[Crafty]

My T3 setup:

LRP Quantum Competition
Futaba S9402 Servo
Retro Pure Gold 12T Double
and half of my truck is upgraded to a FTT3

[TimmyRC10T3]

How many other people have broken the Top Plate on their T3's. Is there a better one to get then stock. Also how bout the rear a-arm mounts, These are the only parts I have only broken on this truck. Man I love AE.

[WheelNut]

I need some more speed out of my T3, I have a P2K now, I want a motor with decent run times, and good speed still. What turn do you think I shoudl go with?

[super_maxx]

i think 16 turn gem2 is your best bet

[TC3B3L3T3GT]

i run a 15t speed gem2
it works fine, but i broke my t3 jumping off a garage yesterday, and it was only the 8th or so jump, too. i need the aluminum shock caps, so they dont pop off so easily.

[banditwing]

How do you guy's like the T3? Is it still a top quality top technology race truck? Can it keep up with losi's? I want to get a T3 FT, but might wait for a FTT4 or get a MFE losi. I want an associated though. Do you think AE will offer a kit to upgrade to a T4 when it comes out?

Thanks

[losixxxdriver]

Hey all-
I am looking at buying a T3, BUT had a few questions. I had a Losi XXX-T, BOY DO THEY BREAK EASY!
I got out of nitro racing, and I am looking at electric now. I want something that would give me as much or close to the speed of a nitro(45+ mph). I was looking for some suggestions on what electronics to use? Can you please post your suggestions!
Heres what I had in my Losi:
Novak Rooster ESC
Trinity Chameleon 2 19 turn motor
Dynamite 2000 batts
Lynx AM Radio System(the $50 one, not the 3d)
Dynamite Mega Peak Charger
WITH THIS STUFF, IT WAS NOT EVEN CLOSE TO FAST ENOUGH!

Thanks,
Kyle

[Porsche]

I need to know what I need my gearing to be so I do not burn up my cyclone. I am running a 13x3 fantom mod motor. I need pinion and spur gearing. Please help. you can e-mail me at
Mech2003@worldnet.att.net


For LosiXXXDriver
With the post above this I only use Novak speed controls. I have a regular cyclone on my T3 nad a TC cyclone on my TC3. People usually have there own preferance on motors. i run fantoms just because that is the first one i ever had and I liked it. but then again I have only been in thsi hobby for 9 months. As for radio I have had ffive. I have a CX2P air, XR2, 2 futabas, and I now own a XR3. Now since I have three r/cs the XR3 is perfect. For a charger I like Indi. I would like to get the 16*5 but I am not rich so I only have a 16*2. But then again it is nice to get the stuff that you like and trust your self. So find what you like and have fun

[losixxxdriver]

Hey porsche-
Would you sell the JR XR2 Radio? I would give me $65 for the radio, reciever, and 2 servos, OR $38 for JUST the radio. LMK !
Thanks, Kyle

[Porsche]

I would but I already sold it. All I have left is the xr3. That is all I need. It has 3 model memory and I have 3 r/cs. That XR2 was great. 2 recievers and3 sets of crystals. Now I have my XR3 and I love it. You can find one on the boards.If you are just running 2 cars get a xr2 unless you can aford and xr3 then get it!!
Chris

[baileym]

Originally posted by TC3B3L3T3GT
i run a 15t speed gem2
it works fine, but i broke my t3 jumping off a garage yesterday, and it was only the 8th or so jump, too. i need the aluminum shock caps, so they dont pop off so easily.

You don't need aluminum shock caps, you need to stop jumping off a garage.

[pudder]

Go for the aluminum caps, or if you are really a jumper, get the progressive piggyback resovoirs.

-mike

[Mack22]

YOU JUMPED OFF YOU GARAGE. You can't really blame the hardware if YOU JUMPED OF THE GARAGE. :)

[pudder]

I dont have my T3 yet, I should any day now, hoping tomorrow. Anyways, what do you guys reccomend for upgrades? I am getting the Factory Team version if that helps too. I hear the RPM Rear A-Arm mounts are a good investment.

-mike

[aspiringrcracer710]

Really, the FT T3 in stock form is pretty good. If you want a good upgrade, Id try the Progressive piggybacks for the T3 if you have a rough track. If not, just stick to the FT T3 in stock form

[pudder]

I have my FT all put together and running, it is AWSOME. Glad to take part in this thread too. :)

-mike

[speedydave]

I haven't posted here in a while...but I guess I'll post again, hehe...Here's a pic of my truck's chassis, taken today...I need new tires...lol...and those springs were on my GT(pics in the GT forum too! :) ), and I had green rears on my T3, but my GT needed the greens, so my T3 should have silver fronts and green rears, but right now it doesn't..:( Enjoy!

[pudder]

For those of you who run a stock motor, what pinion do you generally use. I run on a medium sized track, and use a p2k 2 pro, I just need some suggestions.

-mike

[speedydave]

With my P2K I usually run a 20 tooth pinion...you may want to go down a tooth for the P2K2 though. I've never used a P2K2 though, so I'm not too sure...

[TimmyRC10T3]

Yea for your track I would use anywhere from a 19-22T pinion. I would say a 20T would work fairly well.

[pudder]

By the way, nice truck even though it looks like mine. :D What are the upgrades you have for yours?

Right now I just have the RPM blue ballcups, and RPM rear blue bumper, I want to get the gearcover next.

-mike

[earnhardtjr]

I currently race a Team GT at my local track. But I have started thinking about adding an electric truck to my fleet show I wont have as much down time in between races. If I add an electric truck I will go with an AE T3, but my question is what other items will I need, minus a radio. We race 5 minutes heats and mains for the electrics so what will I need (batteries, charger, ect). Also last weekend I did hear them mention that they run stock motors so what is a good direction to go with that. Thank you for your help and hopefully I can race ever twice every 45 minutes instead of once every 45 minutes.

Thanks
Guy

[MrB1973]

I am about to order a Hitec 645 servo from Tower...but I want to be sure it will fit in my T3 without much hassle....so will it?

I already bought a Futaba 9303 only to find out it would not fit in there.....so I don't want a repeat performance...

Also, on another note, and Pudder, I expect you to be very helpful with this one....does anyone know if the wheels from an Evader will fit on a T3?

TIA

:-D


B

[Porsche]

Hello everyone. I need to know what shocks to get. I was wondering if they made threaded one for the T3. I have every upgrade posible but shock, and nice cvds. SO I am tryint to get it finished
Thanks
Christopher

[speedydave]

Pudder, the truck started out as a Team T3, before the Factory Team kits were started(over 2 and a half years ago). It now has: steering bearings, titanium turnbuckles, RPM ball cups, RPM front bumper, RPM gear cover, and graphite front arms(I'm buying grapite as I break stuff, which isn't often any more :) ). I skipped the bland looks of the stock body, and went straight to a Pro-Line Chevy body, and I'm currently on my second body in 2 1/2 years...It's current electronics include an Airtronics 94737 servo, Novak Cyclone ESC, Novak XXL FM receiver, and Trinity/DudeMann P2K Pro motor. I run various matched packs, including 2000's, 2400's, and 3000 SMH Panasonics, and all but the SMH's are Trinity batteries.

[pudder]

Yes, Evader wheels are a direct fit to the T3.
No, Team Associated does not make threaded bodied shocks for the T3, but you could buy other brands that do.

eranhardtjr-You will need a decent peak charger, and some decent 2000, 2400, or 3000 mAh batteries to be competetive. Novak makes awsome speed controls, so I would suggest one of those. As far as chargers, look at Novak, MRC, or DuraTrax for those. I cannot supply costs for these either.

-mike

[super_maxx]

i have a Factory Team T3

Full bearings, graphite, RPM extras

transmision cover
front and rear bumper
lower shock cups


i have a 16t whats a good gearing

[pudder]

I only know for stock gearing.

Well here are the upgrades I have so far...

-rpm ballcups
-rpm rear bumper
-rpm rear a-arm mounts
-rpm motor cover

All of them are blue. I should also have some flying pictures soon if my friend gets them to me. I need a digital camera...

Today was my first day of offroad, and first day actually racing with the T3, needless to say, I was very impressed. I could do nice big jumps and not even land them perfect and the truck basicly got itself straight. I also had it prettymuch dialed in, good grip, awsome truck. :)

-mike

[super_maxx]

hey pudder


does this sound right 4 mins of a 1500amp max II with a gem 2 16 turn.



thank dominic

[pudder]

If you mean 1500mAh battery, yes I think that sounds about right. If you plan on racing, you will need something better for batteries. I am really not experienced in Mod motors, just stock, but that does sound about right.

-mike

[super_maxx]

thanks for the help:p :D

[super_maxx]

heres my car ft t3

[super_maxx]

more

[TimmyRC10T3]

For a 16T I would use either a 18,19 tooth pinion. You have a nice looking truck and that motor is nice. I have it for mine too. I have all the RPM stuff on my truck too. Do you guys think the ball cups are really that much better. T3 rule !!!!!!!

[pudder]

I have never used the stock ballcups, I bought RPM ones even before I had the truck! :D I am using an 18 tooth pinion now with a P2k 2 pro, and it is too high! Not that that has anything to do with you guys's trucks.

-mike

[super_maxx]

im run a 16 tooth pinion with a 16 t

[pudder]

I have some pictures to add, the first pics of my T3!

They were taken at the local track last weekend.

-mike

[pudder]

Second pic.

-mike

[pudder]

Here it is! :p

-mike

[pudder]

Since I am here, this is my new track layout for my track at home. What do you all think?

-mike

[pudder]

I keep forgetting to attatch it...

-mike

[super_maxx]

hey putter


that a nice truck:D :cool:

thanks

*SM*

[coasterfreak]

looks like a good track design. Can anyone help me here. my pinion only touches half of the spur. i have the non-toothed part of the pinion facing outward. After i put my motor back in my car, the spur got shredded and the whole rear end of the car was vibrating. Help me! :confused:

[pudder]

I think you need a new spur. Make sure to get a good gear mesh going, otherwise your truck can make lots of noise and not be as good. Sadly, I put the pinion about 1 mm too far on the shaft and it shredded a tiny bit of the spur, nothing bad, but now my truck is noisier.

-mike

[coasterfreak]

Thanks Pudder,
but before i run my T3 again (I got a kimbrough spur and shiny Cvds) i want to make sure i have the pinion on the right way. should the teeth be facing outward or inward?
:confused:

[pudder]

Inward. Make sure when you put the pinion on that it is not on too far that the spur will hit the setscrew. Check the play in the motor to make sure it won't hit, because I accidently did that once and my spur sounded funny for a while. Also, dont have the pinion too far towards the end of the shaft or it will melt your gear cover.

-mike

[KC10Chief]

Hey Guys. I'm going to buy a T3 to race this winter at an indoor track when it's too cold to race outside. I've been racing GT's for a few years now so driving fast isn't a problem. I want to go right into modified racing. It's been years since I've raced electric, so I just thought I'd see what you guys would recommend as far as motors, speed controls, battery packs, etc. I'm going to buy the Factory Team T3. Any mods I should know about? Thanks for any info! Matt

[super_maxx]

i think you best bet is all the rpm stuff(gear cover, front bumper, rear bumper and ball cups)

and for a esc : an novak C2

and for a motor: a 11 turn p-94

and for batterys: some 3000s and some 2400s

thanks

*SM*

[RustlerBoy]

Hey guys, greatto be back. GOt a few stumpers for ya!

My T3's rear wheels keep wobbling side to side, even when i tighten the screws down all the way. I just replaced the ball cups with RPM cups yesterday. It doesnt do it asd much, but it still does a little now. It keeps changing the camber 2 to 3 degrees ever time it moves. What is wronmg?

[speedydave]

Check to see if the ball studs, both inner and outer, are fully tightened down. Did you replace only the outer ball cups? If you did, check the inner ball cups too.

[speedydave]

Matt...I really don't think I'm the best person to recommend the stuff for you for electric, but all I can say is watch out! My 14x3 equipped T3 was crazier than my GT...way faster acceleration, about the same top speed...it's crazy(and fun! :D )

[RustlerBoy]

I replaced EVERY single ball cup on the car. I will check to see if the ball studs are tightened down though.

[coasterfreak]

are you sure your tires are glued on straight rustlerboy?

[coasterfreak]

i'm really sorry pudder, but i asked the question all wrong, and i can't understand our answer. should the non-toothed part be closer or farther from the motor?:o :confused:

[RustlerBoy]

well, it is the whole wheel that moves balc and forth wehen i miove it with my hand

[mtn bkr]

Are your axles shimmed correctly? Try pushing the wheel towards the tranny and then pulling it back away from the tranny. If it has quite a bit of movement, that might be the problem right there as well.

[pudder]

You need to have the teeth part towards the inside. The setscrew will be on the side away from the motor.

-mike

Originally posted by coasterfreak
i'm really sorry pudder, but i asked the question all wrong, and i can't understand our answer. should the non-toothed part be closer or farther from the motor?:o :confused:

[RustlerBoy]

Mtn Bkr, yes my axles are shimmed up right. I took it to Scott at the track, and he did it for me, but my wheel still moves.

[coasterfreak]

thanks again pudder :D

[aspiringrcracer710]

what is the first good hopup for a T3 RTR

[pudder]

Defiantly get the ball bearings, your truck will run so much faster and the parts will last longer.

-mike

[KC10Chief]

I have more wheels and tires than I know what to do with for my GT. I'm going to buy a T3 next week. Will my wheels from my FT GT mount onto a FT T3? Front and back. Thanks for any info! Matt

[pudder]

Yes your GT rims will fit.

-mike

[aspiringrcracer710]

Would the Crowd Pleazer T3 and GMC Sierra T3 from Pro-Line fit the T3 RTR?

[coasterfreak]

i'm pretty sure they have the same chassis pieces, so it should fit. even if it doesn't perfectly, it won't be much off.

[TimmyRC10T3]

Yea it will fit fine. The rtr T3 is the same chassis as the team. They all have the same dimesions. The quality of the parts is all that is different on the kits. The Factory Team Chassis is ghapite but is still the same size.

[aspiringrcracer710]

Cool. who here is headed to the Endless Summer Classic. If you are, do you know what the handout motor is supposed to be?

[pudder]

Any body for the T3 will fit any version of the T3.

-mike

[T3boy1126]

hey right now i have an old RC10T3 team kit and i have been out of the game for like two years and my car isn't in the greatest shape so i decided to sell it and i'm going to buy another T3 but i'm not sure which kit yet i can't decide between the factory team or the updated team kit is the factory team kit worth the extra money? any suggestions?
thanx
lata
-tom

[aspiringrcracer710]

Id go with the Factory Team. It has all of the things that the Team kit has, plus alot that it doesnt.

[pudder]

Go with the Factory Team, you will thank yourself later on.

-mike

[T3boy1126]

sounds like i'll be going with the factory team kit thanx alot for the help but i have another ? for you guys this new 3000 NiMH batteries are a toatly new for me (i've been out of the game for 2 years) and i have a feeling i'm gonna need a new charger too i plan on buying duratrax panasonic speed 3000 7 cell NiMH flat pack any suggestions on a charger i want something like in the middle not the "best" and not the "worst" any suggestions
thanx
-Tom

[pudder]

You might want to take a look at DuraTrax's chargers, they look very nice. My friend has the Multipeak one, it can charge 2 batts at a time, which is nice. The Novak chargers are also nice, but may be too much for your budget.

-mike

[pudder]

I just want to show you all my new aluminum bumper I made. It is the same as the stock one, just made out of aluminum. I think it is 2mm thick.

-mike

[pudder]

Mounted.

-mike

[T3boy1126]

i'm going to get the factory team kit soon but i'm going to need new electrics i'm planning on racing off-road tell me if you guys think this electric set-up is ok:

ESC:Novak atom
Futaba standard ball bearing servo
duratrax panasonic 3000 NiMH 7 cell flat pack
trinity D4 12t triple high tourque blank motor


any changes you guys think i should make before i place an order?
thanx tom

[aspiringrcracer710]

love that bumper man

[ladies_man]

Alrighty then, heres what I got
ft t3
lunsford turnbuckles
lrp ipc pro sport
speedgems diamond motor
three crappy 24s

heres what I want
good 24s

also do any of you guys know about a stronger transmission or diff for the t3. how about metal gears for the gearbox?

[WheelNut]

If your blowing gears in the trucks, your probably doing something wrong. Make sure everything is up to the instructions specs, the slippers loose, you dont need to lube teh gears, and the dif has to be tight enough so that it wont slip.

[draggin drew]

in a few weeks im getting the following

-AE Factory Team T3
-Hitec/RCD Lynx 2-Channel FM/1 HS-300BB Servo
-Associated IPC Pro Sport
-Associated Ti Modified 7 Double Motor
-Peak Performance RC2400 Club Sport Stick Pack
-Bolink 48P Pinion Set 12-19T

[KC10Chief]

You don't need to replace the gears in the tranny. It's just fine. If you're having tranny problems, you're doing something wrong. I have two GT's and have never had a problem with those trannies either. I have an old RC10 Worlds car that's about 10 years old. Origional gears in the tranny! Matt

[pudder]

If any of you want to see some pics of my T3, what I have upgraded on it, and such, check it out at http://www.geocities.com/pudder8891/t3_pics.htm

-mike

[aedriver15]

you you don't need to buy a 7 turn mod., you should do just fine with a 10 or 11, otherwise you run a chance of messing up your transmission. just my 2 cents though.

[oggydog]

This is my T3 team updated I just got It 2 weeks ago and it makes my Evader look like a turtle only upgrade so far is the RPM yellow gear cover really big improvement over the stock cover...

[pudder]

Looks nice

[MPTech]

My son has a T3 RTR (no laughing about an RTR, I am really impressed with how good it is for an RTR!! Puts his friend's Rustler to shame!!) Anyway, he wants to run the new Speed Gems Pro (17t double) with the stock ESC. I couldn't find specific info about the LRP Runner, but I did find that the Runner+ will handle an 18 turn with 7 cells. If he sticks to running 6 cells (2400 Mah) and doesn't attempt mud-boggin' (sarcasim), this should still be OK, right? Also, what pinion should he run with the 17-turn? (An AE spec sheet recommends 22/85 for a 17t). Should I take it down an additional tooth to be on the safe side?
If it matters, he's already running full bearings throughout.

Thanks for your help! :D

[aedriver15]

I'd think you'll be ok with running a 17 turn with the runner, and if your gonna be bashing with the t3 go down to a 20 on the pinion.

[Vipaz]

I recently purchased a T3 and I've found that after only a few minutes of operation, the ESC (Duratrax IntelliSpeed) shuts off and the red light turns on. I'm assuming that the thermal overload system is at work here, but I can't figure out why. When this happens, the heat sink is usually still cold. I've set the clutch to the setting suggested in the manual and the truck is bone stock. I'm not running the truck flat out constantly or always through tall grass or any of those types of conditions which might cause this. If anyone knows a solution to this problem, please let me know.


Cheers,
Al:cool:

[WheelNut]

I sort of doubt the runners ability to handle the 17t, it says it probably can, but it gets really hot just running a stock motor! I would recomend just getting a new ESC, one with no motor limit. In the future you'll want to go fast, like low turn mod.

[pudder]

Those LRP Runners arent great at all, spring for another ESC. There are a few tips to let you know how you are geared.

[Vipaz]

Strange, I guess some people can't read. Notice I said I have a Duratrax IntelliSpeed? It can handle up to 12T.


Cheers,
Al:cool:

[aedriver15]

my runner has never run hot and that was with a 19 turn, my friend used a 17 turn and it was fine w/his runner

[Vipaz]

Can someone please simply tell me how I might stop my truck from turning itself off??!! I don't need to hear an argument about a speed control I don't have nor has any relevance whatsoever to my question!


Cheers,
Al:cool:

[ultimaxxracer]

Hey aspiring racer I'm heading up to the endless summer classic at pegasus and I'm also wondering what the handout motor and tires are going to be. If you find out tell me.


MPTech:i also have a runner and I've ran a 16 speed gems on it and it was fine.

[MPTech]

Ultimaxxracer, GREAT, thanks! Do you happen to remember how yu had it geared?

[Vipaz]

I recently purchased a T3 and I've found that after only a few minutes of operation, the ESC (Duratrax IntelliSpeed) shuts off and the red light turns on. I'm assuming that the thermal overload system is at work here, but I can't figure out why. When this happens, the heat sink is usually still cold. I've set the clutch to the setting suggested in the manual and the truck is bone stock. I'm not running the truck flat out constantly or always through tall grass or any of those types of conditions which might cause this. If anyone knows a solution to this problem, please let me know.


Cheers,
Al
:cool:

[ultimaxxracer]

Mptech:I had a 20 toothe pinion and an 87 spur. Make sure that you let the esc cool down between runs.:cool:

[pudder]

I dont think any of those replies were towards you. Maybe You should read better! :p I think that you should send the ESC to duratrax On my DuraTrax Sprint I have had a problem like that but I think it was just a connection problem with mine.

If any of you want to see any vids or pics of my T3...

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/t3_pics.htm -pics
http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/movies.htm -movies

[Notnerb]

has anyone else had problems screwing the screws into their FT T3? i stripped my allen wrench a few times, and even snapped off the tip of an allen wrench inside a screw. is it the graphite, or is it because the screws have allen heads? and did anyone else have less dirt-catcher fuzzy things than required? other than these few things, this is a great truck. i love it.

[pudder]

When I used allen keys I had trouble with stripping things, but now I bought a set of high quality hex drivers I can even screw those ones that I stripped with allen keys. :)

[WheelNut]

Buy a 4-40 thread tap! Then tap all the holes and the screws go in increadibly easily. And yes you do want to buy a set of fairly good allen drivers, RPM makes ones that look like there good, I might buy some actually.

[Vipaz]

I was short a couple of those dust covers, too. What kind of drivers did you get, pudder? How much were they?


Cheers,
Al:cool:

[pudder]

I got the Racer's Edge ones and they were 65$ at my track's Pro-Shop.

[Notnerb]

and another thing. almost every time i see a FT T3 body, it has the "factory team" and "t3" stickers. the only stickers i got got were black and white "AE", "Pro-Line", and stickers for the chevy body. where can i get some "Factory Team" and "T3" stickers?

[pudder]

I was wondering why I don't have those either, I don't really care too much since I have lots of decals anyways.

[surfer]

i just told my lhs and they gave me a free set:D

[pudder]

Lucky You! :) I always get free decals from the hobby shop at my track. I also bought my truck from there so I wouldnt get free decals for T3.

[freestylerT3]

I'm gettin a new IPC Pro Sport that has no motor limit, Is a 10t to fast for a beginner racer? I,ve been using a 13t D and it is great. Which Radio is better the Futaba XR3 or Airtronics MX3?
Thnx.:)

[aedriver15]

futaba doesn't make the xr3, jr does. which is better-they're about the same,except the airtronics one has 5 model memory where the jr only has 3. Get the one that cost less. A 10 turn is very fast for a beginner, I'd recommend a 10 or 11 turn for a truck that is racing.

[pudder]

If your batts can last long enough to finish a race with a 10t go for it! I would buy the JR XR3, probably because it is so popular around here, very comfortable, and easy to use.

[pudder]

After a good day of winning all my races and having the best time ever...

[Vipaz]

Nice truck, Pudder. Factory Team, I presume? For the poor disillusioned folks out there who are scratching their heads in wonderment as to why their Basic+, Sport, Team Built or RTR T3 doesn't come with 'Factory Team' decals, here's the simple explanation: You have to buy the Factory Team truck to receive the appropriate decals which come with it. Odd how that works, isn't it? Say you have a Basic+ kit and it has Factory Team decals on it. Kinda weird isn't it? However insignificantly it matters, it's still misleading to others. Now, if you have a Factory Team T3 and decals which suggest otherwise (as far as I know, all Factory Team T3s should come with Factory Team decals), then if it really matters to you, you should send a nice little letter off to Assoc. explaining your problem and I'm sure they'd send you the appropriate decals and if they don't, tell them that if they don't send you the decals, you will violently commit suicide in an act of extreme rebellion (don't actually do that, simply threaten them with it) against the creators of high-strength polymers. Don't mind me, I'm just crazy.


Cheers,
Al:cool:

[pudder]

Yup, FT all the way. Just had to get the full blown racing machine. :)

[freestylerT3]

thanks also would you recommend 3000 or 2400 batts at a track that is short with lots of jumps or does it matter? also thnx for the reply im gettin another 13t and the ipc soon. still need to check controllers.

[pudder]

The batts don't really matter, but you have to have the right charger for the nimh in the 3000's.

[freestylerT3]

my friends motor glitches alittle he wants to know if he should get new brushes since he has already maintnanced it. He has only had it for 2 months.

[Vipaz]

The glitching is probably not to do with the motor, but rather the radio equipment. Check for frayed, worn or broken wires connecting to the receiver (esp. the antenna). The difference between the different milliamp (mAh) ratings on the batteries is merely run time. If you bought a new 2400 and a new 3000, the 3000 would simply last a bit longer. The voltage would stay the same, always 7.2 volts (don't believe anyone who tells you that a 3000 gives you more power than a 2400 - there is no difference in power between a 1500 and a 3000).


Cheers,
Al:cool:

[pudder]

If he has been running the same motor for 2 months, it is defiantly time for new brushes, usually. Check to see that they dont get hung up, and that the springs easily push them down on the comm, if the problem cosists, buy new brushes.

[freestylerT3]

his radio equipment is fine we already checked i just guess he'll change his brushes

[brittonlj77]

Hey all,
Been reading a while, but first post... I'm about to breakdown and get my first RC car (which I've been dying to do for about 15 years now) and doing some research...

After a few trips to the lhs and some googling and what-not, I've narrowed my choice down to the FT T3. My first impulse was the buggy, but I figured the extra clearance would be preferrable for recreational play.

I may be a newbie but I am really into tweaking and upgrading everything I own. It seems like a better deal to just get FT and be done with it. Hell, I'm a software developer... I have to dig in and see what makes everything work. Tweaking is in my nature.

Here's my questions (and there are a few):

1) Radio recommendations - My few requirements are that it be reliable, not too expensive, comfortable to hold and only needs to hold settings for one car. As far as built in features, I'll leave that to your insight.

I have a line on a used Lynx FM Std Edition with receiver and servo... is this a good radio (reliability, comfort, etc)?

2) Speed Control - I expect to do about 80% recreational driving and 20% racing (only one track in the city that I know of). I think reverse might be fun for the recreational bit, and I know a lot of the ESC's out there offer reverse/brakes and can disable reverse for racing... what's a good choice that would mate well with the t3? I expect to mainly use stock spec motors and cells. Also, what is the main drawback of having reverse? Price? Does it hurt forward functionality? What's the trade-off?

3) How much does an FT T3 kit go for these days? My local hobby shop sells them well below the recommended retail price... just wondering if that is normal or if they are just being really good to their customers.

4) Does anyone sell a wide front bumper for the t3? I didn't see one specificaly for the t3 at RPM's site... I'm sure I'm going to have my share of early accidents and want to protect my investment. Back when my friends first had rc cars (mostly Tamiya frogs, grasshoppers, hornets and a fox) everything had wide bumpers. Is it the weight? Bah..

5) Titanium screws - I've seen these in the magazines and web sites... sure they're expensive... yeah they may be overkill... but just HOW overkill would you say? I know the FT comes with aluminum screws and aluminum can be pretty soft (even with anodizing)... what's your experience with that? It just sounds like uber-bragging rights to me. ;) If I buy them I would most likely want them up front so I don't have to take it all apart and rebuild it with the new screws.

I really want to build up to more racing and my main concern is that I don't want to buy something that I will "outgrow" in 6 months (component wise, not the truck itself obviously). I'm not rich by any means, but I figure if I'm going to need a $100+ ESC or whatever in 6 months, why buy a $60 one now... hope this makes sense. What I guess it boils down to is I want good compromises. I want good value for what I spend considering what my current limited needs with some room for growth.

Anyway, thanks in advance.

[aedriver15]

be careful with those aluminum screws, you might want to tap the hole so you don't strip the aluminum ones out, the jr xr3(fm) is a good raidio, it sells for around 150. The lynx is good but for a little more the xr3 is better.

[pudder]

I agree with the JR XR3 radio, I race with a FT T3, great truck, and radio. It has almost all the features of the top of the line ones and probably one of the most comfortable I have held.

Don't worry about the aluminum screws, you will want to buy a set of good hex drivers if yo uare going to be tinkering lots, Racer's Edge, Hudy, AE, and Integy all have a lineup of wonderful aluminum handled hex drivers. I have the Racer's Edge ones, I like them the best because they have replaceable tips, rubber grips available separate, and a lifetime warranty. The rubber grips are a great bonus because it is hard to grip a metal hex driver with shock oil all over your hands.

You will also need a motor, I guess for starting out it is best to go with a stock, dont be fooled, stock motors can go quite fast. Trinity P2k Pro, and P2k 2 Pro are probably two of the most popular motors out right now, there is also Peak Hellfire and Orion motors too.

For ESC's Novak is the brand to go with. Check out www.teamnovak.com for specs and pricing. I would go with a forward only ESC, but since you are not going to be racing too much with your T3 (that is basicly all I do with mine) then you should go with one such as the Rooster or Rooster reversible. Go for something that has a low motor turn limit, and if you want to know why, just ask.

I hope you know how to solder because in this hobby it is a must. Check out http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/soldering.htm for that article.

Matenence-You NEED and MUST take proper care of your truck, if you do it will last a very long time. Check out http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/ht_index.htm to see some matenence tips and how to's that may help you out.

Seems like I have covered most of the basics, if you need anything else be sure to ask I am always happy and willing to answer questions, stupid or not. :)

[aedriver15]

other good stuff is the lrp v7.1 and a mvp plus stock motor, and if you decide to go mod I'd get the reedy ti 10-double.

[pudder]

Corally handwounds are also very insane.

[brittonlj77]

Thanks for the feedback.

Any thoughts on the drawbacks of having reverse in an ESC? I was just curious.

As far as that radio goes I think it might be a little beyond my needs, but then again I could be completely wrong. What extended features do you guys find especially useful in a radio? I know trimming is good, but even budget radios have that. What else?

Thanks!

[aspiringrcracer710]

I just scored a new stock motor and ESC!! Thing is, I need to hardwire the ESC to the motor (it already has connectors for the battery).

[pudder]

So what are you tryint to say? Do you need help, you never said anything besides what you need to do.

Drawbacks of reversing ESC's

They are bigger, in turn adds more weight. You also can't mount a shottkey diode on your motor which adds more accel I think and better braking, some of them also dont have brakes.

I would go for a forward only one, you may thank yourself later, maybe not, I could not tell you.

[aspiringrcracer710]

My question is this:

I wanna remove the LRP Runner Plus from my T3 RTR, and replace it with a Novak Explorer Sport (which I just got). The bullet connector wires run through the rear shock tower. How do I disconnect the motor from the ESC without having to undo the entire left rear suspension assembly

[pudder]

What do you mean? All you have to do is desconnect your bullet connectors and unsolder the motor wires, then install your new one, and your wires should be long enough to go through the shock tower to the motor.

[aspiringrcracer710]

DO you just take em apart with your hands or use pliers or use a blowtorch, or fire grenades at it, or drop it from an airplane (exhale, inhale), or give it to your neighbors cat or what?

[aedriver15]

you just pull them apart with your hands

[pudder]

Exactly, then look at my post to see what to do next. :) You will get a better connection by hard wiring those wires to your motor, I don't think I know anyone who still uses those pieces of crap.

[aspiringrcracer710]

Thanx guys. Now moving right along, anybody else got pics of their T3 they wanna show off?

[pudder]

I believe I have shown mine, if you havent seen...

http://midcanrc.mine.nu/pudder/t3_pics.htm

[WheelNut]

brittonlj77-I say go get a reversing esc! Having reverse is the best thing you can have while "bashing" its much more covient than having to go move your truck every 2 minutes.

I would recomend the LRP F1 pro reverse, I have one, its a great esc, no motor limit, fully proportinal foward/brakes/reverse. Also it has reverse lockout. And is very well priced for it specs.

About reversing esc's being bigger and heavier, that doesnt really matter to the average Joe, mabye if you were Brain Kinwald it might. Theres plenty of room in the T3 chassis to, so thats not a worry. You will never notice the wieght difference, your suspension and drive train make a waaaaaaaay bigger difference.

As for a radio I say the JR XR3 is good choice to, I dont have one, but trust me you'll get some more RC models eventually adn you will just have to buy naother reciver instead of having to buy another whoel radio system. Doing that is kinda brutal, I have 4 AM radios, I want get a LYNX 3D or the new Airtronitcs MX-3 soon though.....

[pudder]

I own more than the limit if the radio, but luckily I will only be driving 2 in the summer. I really only have 2 to drive in one season, right now I am working on getting it going, old RC10 graphite. :)

[aspiringrcracer710]

Ok, new question:

after disconnecting the ESC, how do you remove it from the chassis. I believe that the ESC is servo taped on

[pudder]

That is easy, pull it off with your hands if you can, or take a flathead screwdriver and SLOWLY pry it off or you could crack the case. You will have servo tape crap on your chassis now, just take some motor spray and keep picking at it or rub it with a cloth, it should easily come off.

[aspiringrcracer710]

thanx pudder, your a real help. You should be a moderator!

[pudder]

Nah, I like the privilages you get but not all the work that is on a board like this, being amember is just fine, I am a mod on my track's board anyways. :)

[freestylerT3]

the screw at the bottom of the shock that holds the shock to the arm keeps coming out. I lost three in one day. It is the only problem on my FT T3. Should i get a longer screw than it came with or what. I need to figure this out im racing next week.