TLO1 Racing Forum v1.0

[maX energ]

hey!, i just decked out TL-01 drifters Tl-01 before...oh man its nice..
adjustable upper arms
tie rods
stainless steel suspresion shafts
on road tuned spring set
speed tuned gear set
carbon prop. shaft
stabilzers
light weight chassis
light weight king pins,
so now that he doesnt need all the stuff he replaced i want to ask him if i can use whats left behind to make ...get this... a FWD TL-01 hehe, all is the shafts out of the M-03 in the rear for the axels and not put the rear diff in, and some assorted other stuff....what are my chances..?!..

[TRF Drive Hard]

There are plenty of people who converted thier tl01 to fwd:rolleyes: no biggie there:p but hey, whatever floats your boat:D

[Scarab RC]

I've decided to purchase a TL-01 LA kit. It has more potential. I can either race it in the TL-01 Spec class, the GT3 class (with some upgrades), and the Rally class. Does anyone else on here actually race? Not necessarily at TCS but at their LHS. Just looking for some tips.

Scarab

[redneck]

hey Scarab RC

what kind of tips building, setup or driving
our team runs 7 tamiya cars in different classes
what do ya need tips on

[minijosh]

I used to go and watch the local boys with $$$$ race the nitros until I moved to England and got a great deal on my TL01. RTR for 100 pounds. About 140 bucks. Now the mods I have done are small but helpful, aluminum main shaft, oil filled shocks(sort of) different tires and wheels of course, lightened chassie, ball bearings( biggest improvement), and a new motor p2k2 pro( i would recommend this motor to everyone except the people I race against) my advantage. Everyone over here loves the p2k and i am just one step ahead of them. Evil laugh.

[Scarab RC]

Redneck,

Does your team race within the TCS rules at your LHS? The LHS I race at is one of the stops for the Tamiya TCS in 2003. RC Outfitters in Hanover, PA. They race year round with a TL-01 Spec class, GT3, 4wd Stock class (bring whatever you have and the more money you've spent the better you'll do), and the HPI Micro RS4 class. So, I'm going to start with the TL-01 Spec class races where the only hop-ups allowed are oil filled shocks and bearings to replace the bushings. So, do you guys race within the TL-01 Spec class? Any info will be great.

Scarab

[minijosh]

There is a Tamiya sponsered race track nearby me but I race with MR4tc, TC3's, Mission's, XXX-s's, street weapons, and lots of other cars. I can hold my own in the lower 2 classes but once I step up on the platform, experience comes into play and I have been racing for about 7 months now so I get beat-down nicely.

[redneck]

our team runs one tlo1 spec and a highly custom tlo1 in 4wheel mod off road (the only rally car in the class) it was just re done and will be running in touring car class but this car is highly modified for the tlo1 spec class the best place to start is modifing the bearings if you lower the friction in the bearings they will roll a lot smoother this is where the big difference in the tlo1 spec class is but it means maintaning the bearings is going to have to be done after every race day

if you need me to explain the bearing mods just let me know

[redneck]

it does not have to be like

the more money you've spent the better you'll do

all you need to do is get the car set up proper thats why i like spec classes don,t get me wrong i spend a lot of money on my cars but the best satisfaction comes from cheap speed like
bearing mods
motor breakin proceduers
gear box work
and set up

all these can be done for free or next to free

CHEAP SPEED IS WHAT IT IS ALL ABOUT

[redneck]

minijosh

the track you race on is it a tight track ( lots of tight Corners)
or a wide open track ( high speed very few tight corners )
each requires different setups if setup properly it can compensate for a bit of lack of experiance let me know about your track i will try to help you ( my son runs our tlo1 spec car in regular touring car class to now and well )

[SegaBowMan]

I just got a Futaba 2PHKA radio. It seems pretty good and the servo is quick. One problem though. HOW THE HECK DO YOU CHANGE THE CRYSTAL INSIDE THE RADIO? :mad: It's not in the instructions. It doesn't show where the crystal is.

[maX energ]

i think its on the front of the radio...maybe on the back...btw...i like that esc it comes with..i have on in my M-03...the TL-01's baby brother...o well my M-03 will be put to off road rally duty..and maybe instead of the FWD TL-01 project ill make it a rally car too..? any seggestions...

[Cychalen]

Originally posted by SegaBowMan
I just got a Futaba 2PHKA radio. It seems pretty good and the servo is quick. One problem though. HOW THE HECK DO YOU CHANGE THE CRYSTAL INSIDE THE RADIO? :mad: It's not in the instructions. It doesn't show where the crystal is.
The crystal in on the outside.

[Cychalen]

Forgot about the picture.

[tl01boi]

i have a tl01 and a rs4 pro 3 and to me i think the rs4 pro 3 is better *just my opinion* it has more options and i think its better because of the handling when i compare the handling of bost cars i think the pro 3 blows away from the tl01 but there just about the same speed i won many arces with my tlo1

[redneck]

hey tl01boi

you forgot to mention your pro 3 also cost 3 times what a tlo1 cost

[SegaBowMan]

Ok, I found the crystal. but, how do you take it out? is it in the instruction manual because I didn't see it. You take of the plate that has the radio frequency on it. Then there is the crystal. but you can't remove it by hand.

[redneck]

carefully with neadle noose pliers

[Saboteur]

The pro3 is a good car however you will have to get rid of that chassis flex for mod racing. I would have bought a tc3 racer kit over a pro3 IMO. Anyway I still like my tl01 kit and have finally decided to get an esc and motor for it. More upgrades for the future are some stuff from megatech, jaco or proline foam tires for carpet racing and maybe slicks. I wont really need the long arm suspension kit. Yes it does make the car a little wider but it really just changes the suspension setup so the handling is better. Some hpi wheels w/offset and spacers will get my car upto the 190mm specs. Hey max energ, I drove my stock tl01 like a rally car before and it handled pretty well. My test run was in CT over some loose and dry soils, grass,etc. Surprising it ran over everthing with ease and didnt get stuck. However when I get a faster motor and esc I will need to get some rally tires as the road tires may not get enough traction at the high speeds. You can get some sweet drifts and roosts with the stock tires in the loose stuff. Once again here is my tl01 at my webpage (in stockform) doing its thing in the snow http://thercfinatic11203.tripod.com

[Saboteur]

BTW, for you guys running stock motors in your TL-01, how fast are you going? I was thinking if I get a novak explorer2 and a p2kpro for the TL-01, I can maybe get close to 30mph. I will also get a 21t pinion, great compromise of top speed and acceleration.

[minijosh]

Funny thing about the track is that there is no set track. We throw down carpet over wooden floors(sometimes the wood is showing) at local community centers since it rains alot over here. The normal place just had its main wall condemmed and is getting rebuilt so the track are very short and curvey for now. I run the p2k2 pro, bearings, esc of course and a 23 tooth pinion.

[redneck]

minijosh

IF THE TRACK IS GOING TO BE THAT small of a track use the kit motor with a 19 tooth pinion you will kill everyone with consistant laps with that p2k2 and 23 tooth you must be running real hot
if you remove the shields from the bearings and flush the grease out of them relubracate with a good bearing oil (from trinity or others i just use 3 in 1 sewing machine oil ) leave the sheilds off and watch how much smoother your gear box will be just remember to clean and oil bearings after race day

on a real tight track take advantage of the kit motor when the biger motors cant stay on the track but you can you will see what im talking about (mubuchi motors wont fit in tc3 or a lot of higher end cars they can only slow down so much )

[RCBandit77]

DRIFTERS READ THIS....... If you are having trouble drifting, (like my tl-01) You should go Local radio shack and pick up and r/c car care kit. In there use the tire/body shine and put that on your slicks. It would make it really slippery so make sure you got the skills to handle it. Every application should last for t2 runs

[Matt (aka R/C)]

I just got my TLO1 yesterday with a 350Z! Looks good so far.

Matt

[SegaBowMan]

I just finished masking my body(Beams Integra). It took 2 hours! I used a mix of duct tape, masking tape, and decals. This is my first body and I'm already experimenting:D . I bought pactra Sprint white and Competition orange. The upper portion of the body will be white and the lower portion is orange. (This makes sense to me because all the body hardware is white and the decals are orange). Since I wanted the windows to be clear, I put the decals on the inside.:D I hope this works. I'll tell the painting results tomorrow evening.

[Burnout]

So whats up with your pics Mr TA03 Drive Hard? jk...I know how people forget sometimes.

I hope there are more versions of the LA kit, because if there aren't then everyone is going to have the Beams ITR kit! I would love to see Tamiya come out with a 3rd gen RX-7 body or atleast the RX-8.

[Subie555]

Hey guys,

Just replaced my pinion with a HPI 19T pinion(48 pitch) and guess what, it just doesn't mesh. The teeth on the pinion are too short.

I don't get it, aren't tamiya pinions 48 pitch aswell?

Any ideas?

Subie555

[TRF Drive Hard]

Tamiya pitch pinions are WAY different... in the tl01, its uses 42 pitch... ya i know, its weird... you can only use tamiya... especially 19, 21, 23 t's only for the tl01... not much you can do;)

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by Burnout
So whats up with your pics Mr TA03 Drive Hard? jk...I know how people forget sometimes.

I hope there are more versions of the LA kit, because if there aren't then everyone is going to have the Beams ITR kit! I would love to see Tamiya come out with a 3rd gen RX-7 body or atleast the RX-8.

I been busy with work... im trying to keep my average post up, but some how i lost over 200:confused: but anywhooo, i will try in a few days to get some pics;)

[Subie555]

Another question......

Has anyone tried the Robinson Racing brand pinions in their TL-01's, and how well do the gears mesh.

Thanks

Subie555

[redneck]

Subie555

you have to use tamiya pinions only

[Subie555]

Does Tamiya make steel pinions for the TL-01?

I really prefer steel over the aluminium.

Subie555

[Integra Type R]

after reading all of these posts, ive decided to get a tl01. anyone have one that they would like to sell to me?

e-mail: zahid5587@hotmail.com

thanx :D

[anthonyfa18]

how come tamiya does not make the Hyundai Tiburon 2003 or the Hyundai accent 2001 wrc. there are very cool cars and i would buy them.

here is the hyundai tiburon 2003

[anthonyfa18]

here is the accent 2001 wrc

[Scarab RC]

TA03 Drive Hard,

I'm getting the TL-01 LA AMG Mercedes.

Scarab

[minijosh]

i would buy the accent wrc car. just because it has a hyundia shell doesn't mean it is one underneath. smooth running tamiya keeping all 4 wheels in motion. i just got the new rc car mag and they teach you how to drift properly. not a bad article. and they test drive the tt01. this might be my next car. check it out.

[SegaBowMan]

are the 19,21, and 23 tooth pinions the only ones available from tamiya? Because if you get the adjustable motor mount you can use different pinions (Tamiya only). So I'm guessing that there are 16 and 17 and other pinions from tamiya in 42 pitch?

[TRF Drive Hard]

The lowest 42pitch is from 14t to 26t? if i recall right...:rolleyes:

[Scarab RC]

TL-01 race setup within TCS guidelines. Any ideas? One I've heard is to get the chassis as low to the ground as possible. How is this accomplished?

Scarab

[Subie555]

Scarab RC,

One way to lower your your car is to put a spacer inside the shock between the o-rings and the piston.

Another way is to use shorter springs.

Subie555

[TRF Drive Hard]

Try not to go to low... otherwise you'll scrap the bottom and that will cause your car to slow down... of course mine is at about 4mm...

[Integra Type R]

hwy, where can i get the adjustable motor mount? :confused:

[tl01boi]

go all tl01 owners haha the best way to get the best handling for your car is to use medium slicks in the front with hard foam in them and medium radials in teh back with soft foam this will make ur handling increase way better

[SegaBowMan]

Originally posted by SegaBowMan
I posted this link a few pages ago but I want to make sure new people will see it.

http://www.thundertechracing.com/motormnt.htm

Does anyone know the range of pinions allowed for this motor mount?

Integra Type R, Here you go.

[Burnout]

Alright, I am now planning to get one soon and I have a few questions. So please help me out guys!

So do the bodies come with the body posts and antenna holes drilled? Also are the wheel wells cut out? Back in day (as for Tamiya tourers) when I had a TA01 Mercedes Evo, Tom's Levin, and still have the Supra Blitz bod it had predrilled holes and cut wheel wells. All the other older Tamiya kits did have that feature. But somewhere I heard that 'certain' Tamya bodies don't have that anymore. And about the Beams ITR kit, the only difference in the chassis is the long arms...right? Right now I have my eye on the Castrol Mugen NSX or the Tom's Supra and just get the LA kit ASAP. BecauseI sure don't want those regular arms on for a long time! And the bodies, to my understanding some of them come prepainted with the kit? If so which one?

Sorry for all the newbie questions fellas and thanks for your help! Its funny how this entry level kit once modified will exceed the costs of a race oriented kit! But where is the fun in souping it up?!

I am now planning to ditch the 4tec. Don't get me wrong, its a great car but I rather be hopping it up rather than driving it. And we all know when it comes to hop ups it just does not exist! If Traxxas made some it would definitely be over priced like how the rest of their hop ups are.

I appreciate any suggestions about this, of course you guys are the TL0-1 experts.

[TRF Drive Hard]

You'll spend more buying a kit w/o the LSA... now is the kits mentioned above the prefered bodies? they have the Acura NSX "beams integra" kit that comes with the LSA... the only difference is that the kit does not supply the stablizer bars as does the LSA option kit does... and yes the bodies do come predrilled with body post holes and antenna... tower hobbies is currently carrying the beams integra (white or blue) and the mercedes LSA kit... i hope i answered it all:D

[aznTAMIYAdriver]

don't forget that the rsx *cough cough* comes with slightly shorter stiffer springs. tamiya bodies nowadays don't come with the wheel wells already cut & as far as i know, the only tl01 kit that comes with a painted body would be the wrx one

[Burnout]

Thanks guys! LSA? Okay, what I thought I knew was the only kit to have the long arms is the Beams ITR. I do remember seeing the 'LA' in the kit number when I was at Ultimate Hobbies (although not quite sure). So TA03 Drive Hard, you are saying that there are "2" versions? One with the sway bars and one without? Or you are saying that if I buy the LA upgrade it comes with the sway bars but the Beams ITR doesn't, right? Also, you mentioned the White or Blue bodies with the kit. Now there is a blue or white Integra and the Mercedes kits that comes with painted bodies and the long arm kit? This is certainly new to me. Thanks, its nice to know that I have more options now.

I apologize for all these questions, I just got a little confused. I am so hyped up I think I am probably going to get it tomorrow! So I do not want any regrets in getting the wrong kit when I had a chance to get the one that I really wanted.

Yeah too bad the painted WRX kit doesn't come with the long arms though.

[tl01_staniland]

hi
when i am playing with my TL01 the car keeps turning ever so slightly to the right.. i have tweeked my controler but it wont go any further to the right .....i have a 'Futaba attack 2er' any suggestions!

[Cychalen]

TL-01 comes with the the Beams Integra Type R (White). You can paint it in blue if you want.
TT-01 (Expert Built) comes with the Mugen Integra Type R already painted in white or blue.

[anthonyfa18]

i have Tamiya Beams Integra Type R(TL-01LA). when i need help i ask tamiya at the Customer Service page because when you want the right awnser. i will also will post the info on the Tamiya Beams Integra Type R(TL-01LA).



customer service (http://www.tamiyausa.com/customerservice/index.html)

Tamiya Beams Integra Type R(TL-01LA) (http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/rc/electric/110scale/tl01/58293.html)

[SegaBowMan]

tl01_stanilnad, take out the servo and take off the servo saver. Set the steering trims to the middle. Then place the tip of the servo saver parallel to the exact top of the servo and put the servo back in. The end.

none of the TL01 with LA kit painted bodies or sway bars. The body holes are there but you have to trim the body. On the box of the beams integra/RSX, it is painted white but you can paint it any color you want. The only problem is that the wing and mirrors that come with the kit are white. so if you paint it any other color than white, the wing and mirrors will clash, unless that doesn't bother you. You can always buy an unpainted wing and put it on the car. OH, and the seperate LA kit DOES come with sway bars but not the TL01 kit with LA.

[tl01_staniland]

:D

[Burnout]

Thanks for clearing things up for me guys. Yea I got a little confused.


I'm gonna try to gather some numbers to call and see if they have the Beams kit around my area. Oh yeah I can't wait!

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/rc/electric/110scale/tl01/images/58293/large_5.jpg


http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/rc/electric/110scale/tl01/images/58293/large_4.jpg


http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/rc/electric/110scale/tl01/images/58293/large_2.jpg


http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/rc/electric/110scale/tl01/images/58293/large_1.jpg




:D

[SegaBowMan]

tl01_staniland, I forgot to mention (or incase you didn't pick it up), When you set the steering trims to the middle, the radio has to be on and there has to be power going to the servo in order for it to return to zero position. Then you put on the servo saver.

one thing about the integra pictures is that they cut down the body posts. and the window tint you see is a decal that goes outside of the body. My car has only 1/3 the amount of decals on it because there are too many. the top of the body is white and the bottom is orange. They split right where the door handles are. I also put in a sunroof:D . At first, I thought it was going to look bad because the rims are gold but it actually looks good. all I need is a foam bumper because the space between the bumper and the front of the body is scary.

[Saboteur]

Upgrade to turnbuckles as the stock steering bellcranks are the cause of the front set of wheels not perfectly straight. I believe they arent the same length.

[SegaBowMan]

thats true but in the building instructions it says to measure it to 54mm. When I put it on the car, the wheels were not straight so I made them EQUALLY longer until they pointed straight. it was about 56mm instead of 54mm.

[Aluma]

hey guys, not sure if you've seen it, but on the tamiyausa.com website, there's an article on how to FULLY hopup your TL01! partnumbers and everything are included. :D

[minijosh]

how did you make them straight? mine look almost straight except for when I go straight. alot of fella's at my lhs have tried to tune my tl01 to go straight.

[Burnout]

I finally got it. Yep, drove Ultimate Hobbies and picked it up! Paid $91 including tax. While I was their for a short time I saw the Mercedes CLK with the LA also. It was weird, it costed $5 more than the Beams kit. The cheapest TLO1 was the Castrol NSX for $77. Although I could be different than the rest of you who have the Beams kit, but the Teg body is sweet and I like it more than the Mercedes one. If only they had other kits in LA form I would've gotten those better:eek: . Here are some pics of it! Yep, its not opened yet and I will probably build it on my next day off.

[Burnout]

hehe. First mod.....hmm...I really hate those wannabe shocks so I think I'll try to get the blue Tamiya ones. If I don't paint the body white then maybe go with red or british racing green. Since I have seen the white, blue, and yellow ones already might as well be different from the rest.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Hey congrats on the new kit, hope you'll enjoy it... btw, do you mean the tamiya trf shocks? those are the sweetest things:D

[fabolousRC]

I'm still waiting for my CLK-DTM 2002 kit..I checked with my hobby shop two days ago...still on order =(

[Burnout]

Thanks guys. Yeah they are the TRF shocks I guess. I never seen or touched them in real life but I bet they are beautiful. I'm not too good with Tamiya anymore so I will get lost knowing what is what.


And how much are you getting the CLK kit for fabolousRC? If you don't mind telling me.


I like it, everything seems so cheap to me already. Since I was into my E Maxx for so long and spend so much on it and now getting back in touring I realize everything costs cheaper! Me likey.
:D

[TRF Drive Hard]

Hehe, just remember, those trf shocks by themselves cost about 55 dollars;)

[TRF Drive Hard]

BTW, i just ordered my 4th set with the aluminum spring retainers along with the blue hard shock set:D

[fabolousRC]

Originally posted by Burnout
Thanks guys. Yeah they are the TRF shocks I guess. I never seen or touched them in real life but I bet they are beautiful. I'm not too good with Tamiya anymore so I will get lost knowing what is what.


And how much are you getting the CLK kit for fabolousRC? If you don't mind telling me.


I like it, everything seems so cheap to me already. Since I was into my E Maxx for so long and spend so much on it and now getting back in touring I realize everything costs cheaper! Me likey.
:D

My LHS quoted me for $100 which is pretty cheap considering you have to pay $20-50 shipping charges if you want to get one from HK (ebay)

[TRF Drive Hard]

Why pay from HK or ebay? why not just get it from tower hobbies and order other stuff... i always buy 150 dollar on the dot, then use a 15 dollar discount with free shipping... overall i pay about 145 dollars:D overall i saved about 23 dollars with the kits and other stuff;) i do this all the time:D

[fabolousRC]

Let's just say I don't have any privilidge of having a debit card anymore :(

[TRF Drive Hard]

Awwwwwwwww...:p dont worry buddy, i hear ya on that... im still paying off debts myself... but is it stopping me from buying rc stuff? heck nah:D

[fabolousRC]

exactly :D

That's why I ended up with almost 7 Tb chassis (including two TB evolutions) soon to be three TL01 chassis (crazy yes...nuts, maybe)...soon to be two TA04 chassis (one is a converted R from parts)..two TA03 (F and R...both double deck chassied)..and possibly a beat up TG10. (phew)

[TRF Drive Hard]

Thats all?:confused:?

[SARacer]

How competitive can a TL01 be using only Tamiya Hop-Ups and a 27 turn motor? Will it be able to keep up with the TC3s and TAO4s running 27 turn motors in a race?

What are the best hop ups to get in order of importance?

Thanks...

[Scarab RC]

My LHS is pretty cool. He said I could buy the TL-01 LA kit and he'd swap the body for whatever one I want. I think I may do the Corvette or Ferrari 360.

Scarab

[Scarab RC]

Is there a good online store to buy Tamiya parts and/or batteries?

Scarab

[Subie555]

Anyone using Deans plugs in their cars?

Are they worth the upgrade?

Subie555

[TRF Drive Hard]

Peformance wise...

-ball bearings
-esc
-oil filled shocks
-carbon prop shaft
-carbon gear shaft
-ball diffs
-04 light weight universals
-LSA
-speed tuned gears

im sure this has been posted many times here:rolleyes: :D

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by Scarab RC
Is there a good online store to buy Tamiya parts and/or batteries?

Scarab

www.towerhobbies.com carries parts for tamiya... but not tamiya batteries...

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by Subie555
Anyone using Deans plugs in their cars?

Are they worth the upgrade?

Subie555

I use deans more than anything else, although at times they can be a pain assembling, just gotta have the know how to do it;)

[fabolousRC]

Originally posted by TA03 Drive Hard
Thats all?:confused:?

Nope...that's not all of my tamiya collection...not including my kyosho collection (two ZX series and three Optima series), kyosho Subaru nitro alpha, a Subaru Tamiya QD, A beaten up Tamiya Porsche 959, and a Kyosho NSR500 (the older model not the hang-on one). :D :D :D

[TRF Drive Hard]

Impressive collection;) i too have quite a collection... all tamiya:D

[Burnout]

$55 for the TRF shocks? It better come in 4 and not 2! If 2 then that is ridiculous IMO!

And we all know that Tamiya plugs suck. I just threw away years and years worth of burnt out plugs, should've took a picture of them. And in some occassions it almost burned my fingers when unplugging them. Many people here are probably using Deans Ultras. I still use the regular Deans 4 pin plugs because its cheaper and more compact. I like them better than Ultras, I can tell you that I myself can't find a difference in performance between Ultras and 4 pins. The effort it takes to unplug them or soldering them feels the same to me too.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Ya the trf shock come in a set of 4;)

[SegaBowMan]

problem. it seems that my body is unbalanced. this is strange because tamiya bodies are pre drilled. The only thing I did differently was that I used these long, skinny hairpins that I put in the posts in order to hold up the body. When I first mounted the body it was fine but a few hours later I noticed the body leaning to the right rear.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Could be the suspension or the body post... check the body post ans see if its misaligned... sometimes i see that on my tl01s;)

[Cychalen]

The body post is flexible and gets bent easily. The body gets misaligned after I hit something hard enough.

[Tl01drifter]

a guy that works at my lhs has every tamiya made!!!

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well its a good thing i dont cut my body post... they save my body from the flips i do:D

[SegaBowMan]

It's still not sitting right. I don't know what it is. What do you guys use to keep the body from touching the chassis(the part that goes under the body unlike body pins which go on top;) )

[TRF Drive Hard]

Ah i think i know what you are saying... youhave no body clips underneath right? your body is then too low and that's why it looks lop sided... you need to add the clips underneath to keep it balanced... and if you want to lower your ride, add spacers inside the shocks;)

[SegaBowMan]

nope. I use hair clips. they are long, thin, and cheap. I put the body as high as it can go but it seems that the body is just twisted. Ah well, at least this body came with the kit. I'll try and use just clips but I don't think it will work

[tl01_staniland]

when i first got my tl01 ...when you pressed down on the car the car rised slowly...but now it pops up after u press the car down:mad:

[Tl01drifter]

Segabowman make sure your wires are not touching the body at all. and make sure ur clips are even

[tl01_staniland]

!!!

[Scarab RC]

I just bought my TL-01 LA AMG Mercedes last night. After I get back from racing my HPI Micro RS4 today I will be assembling it. I can't wait! I bought the oil filled shocks, a bearing set, and a Duratrax Sanyo 1900SCR battery pack. Other than that it is going to be kept stock because I'll be racing it in the TL-01 Spec class at my LHS and at the TCS. What weight oil are you racing guys using in your oil filled shocks?

Scarab

[minijosh]

I run 55 in mine but my shocks suck so that doesn't really help you out. What kind of shocks did you get?

[Cychalen]

Originally posted by Subie555
Anyone using Deans plugs in their cars?

Are they worth the upgrade?

Subie555
I use Deans plugs because those bullet plugs that come with the motor melted. My Tamiya plugs are ok but they do get hot when using a 11T motor. I replaced them also just in case.
I don't feel any improvement performance wise.

[Scarab RC]

The oil filled shocks for the TL-01. Part #50519.

Scarab

[anthonyfa18]

what is better for my TL-01LA ???


Tamiya Manta Ray Ball Differential (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGE35)
or
Tamiya TA03 Ball Differential (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGJ30)

help me !!!:confused:

[TRF Drive Hard]

Both will work fine, but the 03BD is better... the diff spur is thinner... so less rolling friction;)

[SegaBowMan]

I'm going to buy a charger soon. It's between the superbrain and the duratrax peak digital. I need help choosing. But if you have another suggestion for 50 dollars or less, I will take it into consideration but it has to be a peak.

I checked everything but the body still does not sit straight. So I just trimmed the wheel well a little bit more and it is sufficient. I just don't want the body to rub the tire. And now I have noticed that the front wheels are slightly uneven as well. so I will fix that too. All I need now is a battery and a charger and this car is going to fly.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well i highly recommend the intellipeak digital fron duratrax... i use it myself nd it works great... if you want something less than 50 the duratrax piranha digital is an alternative;)

[SegaBowMan]

ah...thats what I meant. piranha digital. thanks for the info. does it get hot? and how many batteries can you charge in a day without negative effects?

[TRF Drive Hard]

Im not really familiar with that charger, but im confident its a good one... im sure you can use it many times in a day... just allow 15min cooling periods in between charges;)

[fabolousRC]

Originally posted by SegaBowMan
ah...thats what I meant. piranha digital. thanks for the info. does it get hot? and how many batteries can you charge in a day without negative effects?

I'll pick the piranha digital over the intellipeak. I don't know how small the piranha digital compared to the intellipeak but the digital packs more feature compared to the intellipeak. plus the digital max charging rate is higher than the peak (5A to 4.5A) and trickle adjustable. I don't know how much the digital discharges, but the peak at 2A it is almost useless other than discharging your RX packs.

[maX energ]

speaking of chargers....im still using a Pro-tec super charger....AC/DC 702...its old but i still like it..haha btw i also need a reailtivly cheap peak charger. you say the piranha digital is good?...and what rate sould you charge 1900 batts at? im guessing 4.0 to 4.5. btw...buying off ebay be worth it?...cause most the things are about the sane as my hobby shop but some things more or less?...just wondering...p.s. we need a King Hauler Forum!! (off topic) lol

[SegaBowMan]

I think I will get either a vision peak or prophet plus

[Burnout]

Whats wrong with the SuperBrain? Thats what I have and its only $44. The LCD display is kewl.:D


http://www.megatech.com/images/tamiya_hopup.gif

http://www.megatech.com/images/products/Tlo1HopUps/MTC22183.jpg



I wanna get that Megatech foam bumper. But those neon parts doesn't fit my style! The purple stuff can be fixed with yellow can EZ Off though.

:cool:

[TRF Drive Hard]

Hey i have that bumper;)

[Burnout]

It would be cool to see that on your car, or to even see your TLO1 at all! Maybe your car isn't nice enough for you to show off? :eek:

[tl01boi]

who will win in a drag race tl01 with p2k pro stock motor or tc3 with p2kpro stock motor

[Burnout]

I would love to have these on my car, too bad its purple. If Megatech had their parts in blue that would be a dream come true.

http://www.megatech.com/images/products/Tlo1HopUps/MTC22173.jpg

http://www.megatech.com/images/products/Tlo1HopUps/MTC22177.jpg


http://www.megatech.com/images/products/Tlo1HopUps/MTC22192.jpg

[Scarab RC]

About chargers,

If anyone has any thoughts of racing a low end charger will not work. I have the Duratrax Intellipeak and a Park Pal (for charging small mah packs) and both of them won't do the job for high end NiMH battery packs. You need a charger that has linear charging; not pulse. You also need to have adjustable peak detection settings. A NiCD battery is far easier to charger as it is not so picky but that limits you to 2400 mah. Only NiMH packs go up to 3300 now. Just letting you guys know not to buy cheap chargers ($100 or less) if you have any plans to race. Don't waste money like I did. Go Novak or LRP Pulsar and get a good charger from the begining.

Scarab

[minijosh]

but I just sold out. I am buying a HPI Sprint kit on Friday and I will be retiring my TL01. Good times but it doesn't handle like the Yokomo that I drove. Don't get me wrong but I will keep it as my backup car. Friday will be my last day to race it I think. It is funny how many people are now joining this webpage just because Tamiya came out with the TL01 rtr. Can't people build kits? Why is it a mech speed control unlike the TT01? Can we get a faster motor just for kicks? It seems like everyone else is putting in a 19 turn motor just to say how fast their POS can go. Sure our car can go over 20 mph stock, you have a 19 turn in it stupid. I love crazy speed but my p2k2 pro is wicked by itself. Now that I can drive better, I am moving up in the ranks. Time to put on a new uniform.

[Scarab RC]

I only bought the TL-01 because my LHS races indoor asphalt and they run on TCS rules. I got it for the TL-01 Spec class. It's cheap and the only stuff you have to buy is the stock stuff you break. That's it.

Scarab

[SegaBowMan]

I went to the integy website and I found these. Do any of you use these? here you go (http://secure400.automatedshops.com/cgi-bin/ams/shopzone30.cgi/~wfp16353/st_prod.html?p_prodid=972&p_catid=9&sid=2dODWE0l2EyS8CU-28103218491.14)

I just saw these too but they are out of stock here you go (http://secure400.automatedshops.com/cgi-bin/ams/shopzone30.cgi/~wfp16353/st_prod.html?p_prodid=930&p_catid=9&sid=2dODWE0l2EyS8CU-28103218491.14)

[minijosh]

those look sweet but if you are running the tcs rules, you cannot have these. i might get me a pair. i wonder if they really work. hmmmm?

[SegaBowMan]

hey minijosh, when you say your getting the HPI Sprint "KIT", do you really mean a kit or the rtr?

[Saboteur]

tl01boi, you'd have to gear the cars the same, use the same tires, shock oil content, springs, battery pack, esc, and then see which one will be faster. The car that is lighter will accelerate faster than the heavier one and be more resposive, but both will have the same top speed.

[TRF Drive Hard]

I go to Integy ALL the time:D

[minijosh]

A full blown kit. They don't sell it here rtr for some reason plus I would rather put it together myself just so I know where everything goes.

[TRF Drive Hard]

The TSD's are great uni's... i also have those on my ta03, but i prefer the 04 lightweight uni's in my tl01;)

[SegaBowMan]

how much do those TA04 uni's cost? I am still looking for a charger but I like the pirannha digital and the MRC superbrain. I like the superbrain because everyone has one and it is slightly cheaper. The digital is also good and advanced like the superbrain. but the brain has heat problems. I think it has more accurate peak charge than the digital. but those heat problems are not good. So I like the pirannha digital more and probably what I'm getting unless i find a superior charger for around the same price. My body still does not sit right but there is enough clearance for the tire so I'm ok with it

[SegaBowMan]

also, i saw that someone used a TC3 foam bumper on their TL01. How do you attach it?

[TRF Drive Hard]

The lightweight 04 uni's are about 34 bucks a pair;)

[SegaBowMan]

is it ok to tape the on/off switch to the receiver?

[TRF Drive Hard]

Sure its ok... as long its attached good so it wont "pop" off;)

[SegaBowMan]

Thanks so much. I was reluctant to attach it to the side of the car as the instructions say because it could easily be pulled off or damaged. Also is it ok to run the servo wires close to the receiver? I did this so that all the wires won't be hanging everywhere but if it is a cause of interference, then I can change it.

[TRF Drive Hard]

You may wanna bundle up the wires closely together but not close to the reciever... bundling up the wires close with a zip tie will reduce electrical noise;)

[Burnout]

I also want those Integy TSD's. Damn them, I called them up to see if they sell it direct, but they don't! Those blue TA04 axles are cool, but I wonder why the guy that did the Xtreme Built article didn't use them on the front. Hm....

I also went hop up searching today. I was looking for some special screws and stuff for my TL01. Drove everywhere and all these freakin shops do not carrry what I wanted. And I live in a place where there are plenty of hobby shops. They let me down this time and for the VERY first time I am going to get stuff from Tower Hobbies. I know they are the best overall when it comes to getting your hobby stuff. They sure do have everything that I needed to hop up my car with.

Anyways, any tips for a first time Tower Hobbies shopper? I was thinking maybe there is a special discount for a first timer. And also this is going to be my very first time ordering anything online! I always drive somewhere and get it directly. Thanks.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well here's a tip to saving with tower hobbies... i always match my items to a max amount of 150 dollars... first, you need to be a tower member... this allows you to save on shipping, its free with orders above 150 dollars... secondly, look for discount codes every month, typically they have 15 dollars off on any purchases over 150 dollars... now if you shop right and do the 150 deal, you'll be saving $7.99 from shipping, and $15 off... and if i am correct, there is no tax if you are not in Illinois or Nevada... so that is about another 10-12 dollars in savings... the most you'd spend is about 130-140 dollars... i spend on a average 145-150 using that way;)

[Saboteur]

Now thats good spendin.:cool:

[SegaBowMan]

that is good spendin but all I need is a 50 dollar charger. I'll have to send a money order. all the superbrains are sold out.

[Burnout]

I see, to get some discount you gotta spend $150 and above. Too bad I'm not planning to spend anything near that amount! More like in the $60 range :( . I'm beginning to think you spend $150 at Tower quite often :eek: .

I finally got done with my car and I changed a few things while building it (just minor) if I remember I'll post a pic later on. I'm a chassis guy and I didn't think the TL01 was this cool. The long arm just makes it so much better compared to the pics I see with regular arms.

Well I been having a hard time but does anyone here know the part no. for the long arm sway bars?

SegaBowMan, you can try Ultimate Hobbies .com if you really want the Super Brain. Its exactly for $44.99 and they have LOTS of them in the glass counter. Like some say, they tend to false peak on Nimph batteries??? But for me I DO NOT plan on buying some expensive types, NiCds are good enough for me and the Super Brain does its job for them very well IMO. I'm no charger expert but I go by what the majority says also :D .

[Tl01drifter]

they did not take off shipping for me i spent 180$ with shipping but that is most likly because i am on the other side of the country

[Burnout]

Pic time! Yeah I know its bone stock but here it is. Oh yeah, almost all the screws have been replaced with HPI 3x10 black screws. They are pretty much the same as the OEM ones except that its black (duh) and the heads are slightly fatter (length and threads are exact). Everything fits perfectly except the body posts where the opening was a little small for the head to fit through. I also added the Tamiya 3x10 titanium screws. 4 on where the front bumper mounts and 4 for the rear fiber brace.

[Burnout]

e_e

[Burnout]

one more pic.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Pretty cool lookin for bone stock;) and ya i do spend 150 every few weeks:D its a religion, i have to do it:p i just got 3 sets of hpi rims with 3 sets of inserts and 3 sets of low profile treaded tires;)

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/h/hpic3771.jpg
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/h/hpic3796.jpg
http://www2.gpmd.com/image/h/hpic3801.jpg

The Corsa, the last image, is the best design of the bunch:cool:

[Burnout]

I wish I had that much dedication like you to spend $150+ every week! You must be in some kind of exclusive Tower Hobbies member :cool: .

As for those rims, I was going to the the sets you showed at the bottom (the Corsa). And the middle ones, I absolutely hate them, every time I see them it reminds me of that HPI Dash car...bleh!

I'm gonna get me these, still trying to decide the white or black ones. Maybe white to bring out some color of the chassis.

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/k/kyoc6409.jpg
Kyosho V One R.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Oh its NOT dedication:p i do it outta impulse!:D those kyosho rims are aight... hmm too many spokes, but if i were to get those, i prolly go with black, with a white painted body;)

[SegaBowMan]

How do you get a mail order form for omni models? I didn't see it on their website. (TA03 DRIVE HARD, since this is a general question, can you put it in the general forum?) I always thought that your name was TA03 hard drive. lol. get it? computers, hard drive

[Scarab RC]

I'm trying to create a TL-01 Spec class TCS Racing thread and it won't let me. Anyone know why? I hate having to wade through the bullcrap on this thread. Leave this thread to the newbies, sidewalk bashers, and non-racers. I want a thread where we talk TCS racing, rules, advantages, disadvantages, car tech and setup, and driving methods and techniques. I don't care about hopups because in the spec class you can't have any other than bearings and oil filled shocks. I care about matched battery packs, ESCs, and wet tires. Is there anyone else on this thread that actually racing at a TCS event or at their LHS with TCS rules? Are you interested in starting a new thread?

Scarab

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well as the thread title says... this is a place to talk about... whether its racing or bashing... you can still asl about TCS rules or set up... to start another thread soley for TCS purpose is only asking for questions like "what hop ups can i get for my tl01" or "i wanna make my tl01 faster" those are tried and trued questions answered over and over again:rolleyes: best to keep here within this thread;)

[Saboteur]

I agree. BTW nice ride burnout.

[SegaBowMan]

WOW. I just corrected a big mistake. A few pages ago I mentioned that my TL01 took a long time to for the shocks to rise. Well guess what. I didn't put the oil on the rubber tubing !! I was taking apart parts of the car that I didn't do or finish and when I got to the page with the shocks, I noticed the little oil sign. I'm glad I reread the manual. Now this thing goes down and up so easily:D and it dropped the ride height quite a bit. just in case anyone has missed it, this is your reminder/warning. I also cut off the 2mm for the adjusters(LA version). All I need now is a charger(superbrain) and a battery ( duratrax shark) and this baby will fly. The only thing I will regret is scratching the bottom of the chassis. Ah well, it's the top that counts;)

[SegaBowMan]

Do the tires REALLY need to be glued? they seem to stay in place

[Cychalen]

That's what I thought before I run it on pavement. I made a hard turn and saw one of the tires flying out. :D The tire will come out and the wheel will get damaged. :(

[minijosh]

If you are going to be painting a new shell, look at this website.
www.*******.com.
they helped me out with my new shell. the tips were really good and so were the free mask designs but I screwed up the paint myself.

[tl01_staniland]

I already have a TL01 but it is standard ..do u think i should build another TL01 and take my time adding mods as i go along or build a car from scratch like get chassis then all the seperate parts??:confused:

[SegaBowMan]

Well if you have one, then you can make a performance TL01 from scratch. lightweight chassis. LA kit. this and that. speed tuned gears. better stock motor.

This came to my attention. Between the MRC superbrain and duratrax piranha digital peak ... the digital is better because it comes with the connections in the front. This way you don't void the warranty if you use deans plugs. ;)

[TRF Drive Hard]

I would choose the duratrax over the superbrain...;)

[SegaBowMan]

agreed but I need to know how to mail order to omnimodels. they don't have a printable form on their website. and their shipping is less than Tower hobbies and since tower hobbies is my popular, my order may come late.

[Burnout]

Why don't you just give Omni Models a call? Its only a one time thing so maybe your parents shouldn't mind being it long distance?





I am now currently lowering the car. Since its still new the springs haven't settled yet. But hopefully my method should speed up the process :D . I really hate how high it sits and I tested it with full electrics and still sits high. Damn I hate the OEM fake shocks! And you guys maybe wondering why I remove the wheels is because the risk of flatspots. I am also too lazy to put spacers in the faux shocks.

[Cychalen]

I don't think that's the proper way to lower your car.:confused: But it is an interesting idea. :D

[Saboteur]

Maybe he is trying to set a speed record. BTW I dont think the body will fit anymore with all those batts. LOL:D

[Scarab RC]

I believe that Omni Models and Towerhobbies are the exact same thing.

Scarab

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by Cychalen
I don't think that's the proper way to lower your car.:confused: But it is an interesting idea. :D

That is exactly what i was thinkin:p at least you tried... here's a cheap tip trick to lower the suspension... cut a few coils to the desired length;) just make sure they are the same all around:cool:

[Saboteur]

Cool Idea TED. I never thought about that. :)

[TRF Drive Hard]

I'm pretty sure that idea was thought up already... sure beats scrounging up some old o rings or spacers:D

[Saboteur]

LOL.guess Im late then,hehe. I wouldnt want to cut the springs on my tl01 or the neo,however I wish the neo came with the threaded washers:( Whats a threaded shock without the threaded washers?

[TRF Drive Hard]

A Neo? A NEO 21!?! you have a NEO 21!?!?:confused:

[Aluma]

hey guys, seriously, if you're looking for a new set of tires to try out... try the medium compound medial pros. I have a set and the first time i ran them they had as much grip as my sorex 32r's!
As they wear they get even better and they last a long time aswell. :D Just ignore the weird looks people will give you for running such strange looking tires, and dont tell them you saved a couple of bucks for not having to buy inserts. ;)

[TRF Drive Hard]

Ya thats the rave i hear from HauntedMyst... he races up by Oakpark from where i am... he swears by these tires and holds true to them... and ya, the pattern on those tires are a bit um... hmm... ew lol:p

[Saboteur]

Well ted, its the neo tnt nitro sedan. I may buy the neo t21 electric sedan. Both are really nice and come with either a accord or alfa body, read or mid mount motor, pivot ball suspension and graphite parts I believe. A great buy for $110.00 .

[SegaBowMan]

wow. this thread flourished while I was out. anyway I tried to call Omnimodels today but they were closed. And they're open monday-friday so no weekend calls. I guess tower hobbies will do. umm, you think I will get something free?:D just kidding. but whoever posted the info about postal service shipping, thanks.

[TRF Drive Hard]

I want something free... is it a tl01?:confused:
















:p

[SegaBowMan]

I was at the traxxas boards earlier and they were talking about how tower hobbies screws up some orders. One guy ordered a nitro stampede and they sent him a maximum MT(I think) and it wasn't on the invoice so he kept it. lol. and since the stampede was on backorder he got that too. Anyway I forgot how much shipping is if you use the postal service shipping that they don't tell you about. Do you know TA03 Drive Hard?

[SegaBowMan]

mistake. ignore this post

[Subie555]

Motor Brushes..........

Which ones last the longest?

and how do you prolong their life?

I've tried the serrated one's and got about 2 weeks out of them.

By the way, I run my car 3-4 times a week.

Subie555

[tl01_staniland]

Originally posted by tl01_staniland
I already have a TL01 but it is standard ..do u think i should build another TL01 and take my time adding mods as i go along or build a car from scratch like get chassis then all the seperate parts??:confused: ...

[Burnout]

Hehe. Now my car has been sitting for over 24hrs straight. I really think it should drop just fine. And noway I'm gonna cut the springs! Wouldn't that be a little tacky :D Or maybe I should heat them better? :p . :D

[TRF Drive Hard]

Im pretty sure its not gonna have any effect... but cutting a few loops wont hurt... if not ghetto style:p why not jst get some touring springs? they are somewhat shorter, and there are multiple stiffness springs... white being super hard, blue being firm hard, yellow being medium hard, and red being soft hard...;)

[SegaBowMan]

Oh boy. I had to go out today and when I got back I was going to call tower hobbies. Thinking that they operated on pacific time, I ignored the task for about 20 min. When I called,them they were closed. I looked at the sales flyer and it says central time. MONKEY BALLS!!! :D anyway how about the postal service shipping tip. I don't remember who said it but I want to mail my order on monday and I need to know who much it is.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Any where between 3.99 to 7.99, depending on the item being sent out;)

[Burnout]

Damn. You are right. It really didn't do much at all...can't blame me for trying tho! But it could have fooled me but it did seem like to lower just a teeny wincy little bit :rolleyes: .

Buying springs for these wannabe shocks? I do like the stock springs. I like the color, reminds me of gunmetal color. Anyways very soon I'm going to replace the whole thing for some TRF's or someother aluminum Tamiya units. TRF's are on top of the list, if not then some silver ones I seen...probably the same ones off a tb01 evolution.
:D

[SegaBowMan]

I used tape to tie the servo wires together. Is this ok?

[Cychalen]

Burnout. I don't think it is a good idea to use those stock springs when you get a US$50+ fluorine coated TRF Damper Set. They deserve better.:p

SegaBowMan. I tie servo wires together too. Everything is ok.

[SegaBowMan]

what runtime am I looking at with a 1500 mah battery and a stock car? Also when breaking in the motor, can I use a 9 volt battery to power it?

[Cychalen]

According to Tamiya, you can get about 7 mins with a 1300mAh battery, so you will get about 8 mins with a 1500mAh.

[Burnout]

Yeah, you are right...good shocks deserve good springs and not those sorry excuse for shocks pogostick units :D. And to think I was thinking about using the stock springs on some sweet $50+ shocks :rolleyes: .

[SegaBowMan]

The ones that come with the LA version look good. I wouldn't change em till I started racing. This time I applied more grease to the tubing and it seems to last longer. But when I press down on the car, the bottom touches the ground. That's why I'm going to put duct tape on the bottom. My original intention was to put vinyl electrical tape but it didn't match the colors of my car(orange and white)

[Burnout]

Whoa, duct tape? I'm sorry but I don't quite understand. You mean you are going to put tape on the bottom of the chassis to protect it? I suggest you don't do that. It is not nessacery at all. Its just my suggestion.


I never really notice this but other TL0's do have different springs huh? Maybe the spring rates are also different?

And as for my project dumb drop, I think the spring rates did change. It did not bounced as much as before me thinks.:rolleyes:

And shocks? In my world it should be mandatory to include some real oiled filled units in any hobbyclass vehical!

[SegaBowMan]

yep. there are so many hop ups to buy. Is this the only 1/10 touring car that doesn't come with oil shocks

[maX energ]

how does the TL-01 compare to the TA02...the TA02 is like a bog brother...because....shaft drive 4WD thats somewhat similar to the tl01 and btw... a stock motored TA-02 with low friction aluminum dampers, ball bearings, ESC, and i decent driver against a TL-01 with...lightweight frame, adjustable tierods, upper arms, speed tuned gears, stock motor, bearings, CVA shocks, carbon shaft, sway bar (rear), ESC, 19T pinion, whict take the win? im guessing the TA-02 cause it has most of those hop ups anyway....the tl-01..fast in the striaghts and poo in the corners...my TA-02, decent straights and a DREAM in the corners...someone explain...thanks again!


~happy motoring!

[maX energ]

in the magizine Super Street...a real car tuner mag...they have lots about r/c cars now! like in the new issue with this trick supra on the cover it has a contest where if you send in the most horrible ticket youve gotten by "the man" then you can win a Tamiya Integra type-r..this is the TT-01 or the TL-01 correct?...o well i dont have a licence so im out of the race...haha and in the lost issue it has a few listings about 1/24, 1/12, 1/10, and large 1/5 scale cars and also those RELY small r/c cars whict i dont see a point it...nano? or something scale

[SegaBowMan]

the integra type r is the TL01 with the LA

[Grifter]

They do also sell the Integra Type-R with the XB TT-01 Chassis. So it could be either one.

[anthonyfa18]

what motor is good for my TL01LA?? i am looking for a 10t,11t or 13t:D :D :D

[maX energ]

btw....how do ya do the silver can motor trick...i hear you take needle nose pliars hold the comm and twist the shaft?....?! i hear gives you like mad acceleration? or speed...im guessing all it does it changing the timing of the motor?

[SegaBowMan]

oh. there are two different integra type r. The TL01 is the BEAMS RACING Integra type R and the TT01 is the MUGEN Integra type R.


You might as well get the 13T motor anthony. improve your car some, thundertech racing adjustable motor mount, then a 10t motor. You can use lower pinions this way.

[SegaBowMan]

They murdered this page. read carefully and you will see what I'm talking about. supposed beams integra lol (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCPV8&P=1)

[TRF Drive Hard]

Ya i saw that already... talk about super typo:p

[minijosh]

Honda doesn't make Ford? I thought they did. Silly me.

[Scarab RC]

I wish it came with a Mustang Cobra body. At least it wouldn't be an ugly Honda.

Scarab

[SegaBowMan]

uh oh we have an anti honda alert. call the rc police.:D This is Japan's Honda so... what do you have to say now.;) J/K but not about Honda:mad:

[TRF Drive Hard]

Before we begin the Honda/Ford bashing... take it somewhere else... this thread is strictly for TL01 topic, so stay on it... wanna go bash cars, go in the off topic... first and final warning...

[SegaBowMan]

Sorry. I wasn't serious at any point in that post.:D

About breaking in the motor. Can I use a 9 volt battery?

[TRF Drive Hard]

Im not mad or anything, just a heads up of what might become a nasty bashing here in this part of thread... tends to get ugly:p um not sure about using a 9v batt for motor break... you might wanna use a 4cell to break in the motor... you dont wanna wear out the brushes prematurely...;)

[SegaBowMan]

Originally posted by Crazy Canuck
You dont have to clean a TC3 every time you run it. Its a good idea if you race, but not otherwise. As for the steering arms, its a servo problem more than anything else. The wheels should not point straight, they should toe out about 2 degrees. That improves handling. Keep playing w/the trim, but with a standard servo, you will always have that problem.

Is it true that the wheels should toe out about 2 degrees?

[Tl01drifter]

any one know a good hobbie shop that has a online store. I know about tower but i would like to get some more places to shop

[SegaBowMan]

Sorry drifter but I only have experience with tower.

So how about my previous post guys? any suggestions? umm, who has a TL01 with an LA conversion or LA kit version?

[Burnout]

I would say towerhobbies as overall best place. You can't beat them in terms of the kits and parts they have. Then other big places I know are stormer hobbies and hobbypeople and thats it.

And my car, well there has to be something wrong with it. Probably a bad mold on the chassis. I test fitted the Supra and Beams body and all the wheels lined up the wheel wells except the right rear wheel :mad: . I do know how to build kits and have many years experience so I know its the the builders fault :D . I have tried switching arms and all that other stuff but nothing. And you guys probably also think the body itself could have been off in the factory drilled holes but it isn't. I know that because my Supra Blitz body fitted perfectly on the TA01 and TA02 chassis where on the TL01 it's way off! The Beams body sits a little better but still not very nice.

Oh well, seems like the best thing is to get another chassis :mad: . I'll post a pic if I remember and show you guys how bad the body sits.

[Cychalen]

I don't have a TL01 yet, but I would like to see what you are talking about.
Supra Blitz. The one with the headlight buckets? :eek:

[SegaBowMan]

I know EXACTLY what you are talking about. I told you guys that the right rear tire sits funny(BEAMS Integra). It's like the wheel sits too close to the main part of the body but every other wheel sits dead center. I've tried different body post positions but it hasn't helped. I just cut a little bit off the body but they way I have it sitting now, it doesn't matter. Thank you for posting this Burnout. :D I've also tried repositioning the body posts but that didn't help either.

[SegaBowMan]

ok go to this page and look at the 5th picture(the one that says right side) TL01 (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=68739&highlight=TL01)

It is the dark circle in the corner. right there is where the body comes too close.

[Burnout]

Wow, I thought I was the only one that had this problem! I guess you are too SegaBowMan. Sorry for the bad pic but trust me, in real life its worse than what it shows.

And yes, its with those with the headlight buckets, as you can see its been through many battles. Yeah I know I know, should've used an HPI body for bashing better :D .

[Burnout]

At one time I was going to drill out the lights so I could add some REAL lights in place. But...nah. :p

[SegaBowMan]

did u know that seeing that body on ur 4tec is what convinced me to jump into the hobby sooner? I really liked how it was painted and how low it sat on the chassis. also the new technique for LED's is that you don't paint behind the decal to make it light up the whole decal

[Burnout]

Thanks for the kind words! I knew one day I was going to get back into Tamiya. I wish I had kept other Tamiya touring bodies in the past :( . At one time I thought about drilling NEW holes so it could fit into my 4tec :eek: , but even though it is beatend I could never ever bring myself to do that. Now you can see my comparison on the Beams body:

[Burnout]

:(

[SegaBowMan]

exactly how my body is. what kind of digital camera are you using and how much did it cost?

[Burnout]

Its my brother's camera. I use it when he's not around :D. Its a Sony Cybershot 1.3 Mega Pixels with 6x precision digital zoom, it also says Mpeg Movie EX and model number DSC-P30. Hehe, I'm just reading what it says on it since I dunno squat about cameras :D . So all the adjustments and everything I have no clue how to do.

Back on topic, I found that my hobbyshop has some silver TRF? (seems like there is a blue and silver polished trf units) shocks for $44.99 a set of four. Gonna get those soon and then go on a $60 spending spree on Tower Hobbies :eek: . I just can't stand another day with my car sitting that high with fake shocks!

[SegaBowMan]

thats cool. you could go the other route and get two packages of the CVA mini shocks. about the same price

[SegaBowMan]

have you ever noticed that when you spin the wheels by hand that they wobble side to side?

[phatvw1]

The play is actually quite normal... mine has about 2-3 mm of play per wheel.

All I can say is WOW! I've been gone from this board 3 months because of a school project (Formula SAE racecar, ongoing) and my other hobby (rebuilding a 1987 Porsche 924S) and suddenly there are 900+ posts in the TL-01 section... I'm impressed.

[SegaBowMan]

I don't know what car this is but I wanted to try the feature.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Thats mounted on the ta03 chassis;)

[Ideal]

Originally posted by Crazy Canuck
As for the steering arms, its a servo problem more than anything else. The wheels should not point straight, they should toe out about 2 degrees. That improves handling. Keep playing w/the trim, but with a standard servo, you will always have that problem.

1) Q: How would changing your servo for a competition one change your wheel angles? A: It won't.

2) Toe-out means the front of the wheels (the part of the wheels nearest the bumper) point outwards, while the rear of your front wheels point inwards. Toe-out vs toe-in: Toe-in on your fronts will give you more of a straight line when you are going at high speed. Toe-out will allow you sharper during turns.
There is no definate saying that "toe-out in front gives you better handling"... thats just mumbojumbo on your part.
That's like all those kids who are on this board saying "I need new shock absorbers so I'll make my car go really fast" - top speed is constant to your motor/pinion/gear ratio, the handling however will improve with the new shocks.

[Ideal]

Originally posted by Aluma
the car understeers excessively and I keep going too wide and hit the pipes almost all the time! anyone know how to get better turn in? I have the hard rear swaybar and it helped minimally! do I toe out in front or toe in?

If you want the car to have more grip in front, less in rear, meaning then oversteer then:
25wt front soft springs
35wt rear stiff springs
rear toe-in
minimal front toe-out

This is not an actual set-up, this is just theory. I got this theory from the Tamiya manual of my Tamiya Jaguar XJR 12 pan-car. There is a rear t-plate, and if you make the rear end stiffer you get oversteer, and if you make it looser then you get understeer (have tried that out, and yes it is so). So by that logic: If the front shocks are more sensitive, while the rear shocks are like rocks, then you will get more responsive steering. Or that's what I think is the theory at least. Read some of the Tamiya guide books, they have these cute little tips on these things regarding setups. There are also other books on this.

[phatvw1]

Originally posted by Ideal
Toe-out means the front of the wheels (the part of the wheels nearest the bumper) point outwards, while the rear of your front wheels point inwards. Toe-out vs toe-in: Toe-in on your fronts will give you more of a straight line when you are going at high speed. Toe-out will allow you sharper during turns.
There is no definate saying that "toe-out in front gives you better handling"... thats just mumbojumbo on your part. Exactly... follow these principles:

Tight track - more toe out as it will give you the sharper turn-in, which many simply call "better handling". Too much, though, will bring on heavy oversteer and make the car slower through the turns.
High speed track - toe in as it will give more stability. This is simply due to the grip produced by the wheels transmitting lateral forces towards the centerline of the chassis, therefore it doesn't wander on the straights.

And the servo will make no difference in the amount of toe. To be able to adjust this setting, you need to replace the stock non-adjustable steering arms up front with turnbuckles.

[phatvw1]

Around page 11, I said that i was going to post a bic of the Opel V8 body for the TL-01... well, here it is. :D (the one on the right) The S2000 belongs to one of the first 'kids' I got addicted to R/C after I got my TL-01 a year ago. In a year, I have introduced 6 people to the 'addiction'... :D including my 9 year old cousin who now runs a Rustler.

[SegaBowMan]

two things.

1) I just put all purpose oil in the gear box where the shaft ends are hidden. will it have negative effects? it says on the back that it is used on small appliances and electric motor bearings up to 5 mph.

2) there is a small crack where the top of the shock screws into the chassis. will it get worse?

By the way, nice bodies:D

[phatvw1]

That crack may not be an enourmous problem if you don't bash your car into oblivion. See if you can fill the crack with some CA glue (medium since it doesn't run like the thin stuff) for extra strength.

[TRF Drive Hard]

All purpose oil is mainly used for house hold stuff... not rc stuff... if it says up to 5mph, then youre in for a disaster... your ball bearings will exceed the viscosity of that oil and will heat up tremendously causing the plastic to melt... and/or warp... best clean it off whiule you still can... i have done this on my motor and it wasnt pretty... the whole endbell melted into a blob to a point were the armature could not spin... btw, if youre not using ball bearings, but bushings instead, then say goodbye to your tranny:eek:

[SegaBowMan]

thanks for the info. can I skip cleaning it off by putting tamiya grease on top?

[TRF Drive Hard]

Well you do risk the aftermentioned above but you can i guess... but i would still clean it off... having all-purpose oil and ceramic grease might have a side affect... but i dunno, its 2 different things;)

[Ideal]

Originally posted by fabolousRC
I'll look into that for the TA03...the problem with the TL01 ball diff is that...I build that (****) from brand new kit!!. I did use a different lube instead of the one that Tamiya gives you with the ball diff kit. I think the next time I tore that rear end apart I'm just going to over-tightened the diff...I rather have a solid axle four wheeling rather than front wheel drive with no brakes. :D

I think you did not take care to assemble all the parts the right way. If you don't make sure that the parts are assembled according to the manual, then the diff won't work properly. If this is a Manta Ray ball diff then I got a pretty good idea... just take the thing apart and assemble it according to the instructions, make sure everything is assembled correctly.

[SegaBowMan]

umm... I put the oil on the wheel bushings too. do I have to clean that off even though I'm using the silver can motor?

[anthonyfa18]

is WD40 good for your gears?? because this guy i know put it and he said it is the best?

[Albertt]

Originally posted by phatvw1
...a school project (Formula SAE racecar, ongoing)...
What school do you attend. I was involved in Polytechnic University's FSAE car in 1997 and 1998.

[Albertt]

Originally posted by anthonyfa18
is WD40 good for your gears?? because this guy i know put it and he said it is the best?
I would not use WD40 or anything petroleum based on any of the plastic parts in the car.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Ya that stuff will detioriate (sp?) the plastic and crumble...:eek:

[SegaBowMan]

so to clean off the oil do I use warm water? paper towel?

[Cychalen]

Water and oil do not mix so you should use some dishwashing soap.

[SegaBowMan]

I found a can of pressurized air. will that work too?

[Ideal]

Originally posted by SegaBowMan
so to clean off the oil do I use warm water? paper towel?

I would think it would be enough just to use paper tissue. Twist it and pass it through the bushings cleaning those out, then just wipe off the axles. Use thick grease.
I like to replace the bushings with ballbearings when I build a kit, theres not really any point in running with bushings, but if you do then just use the regular tamiya grease on it.
I like to use the Tamiya ball diff grease on the gears (gears only, not bushings!) because it makes everything run so silent, gets rid of that whining noise you get sometimes.

[Burnout]

Sorry but I don't get whats going on here. SegaBowMan, what did you do to your car? Sounds like what ever you did is life threatening. Goodluck with your car and use common sense! (not like I'm saying that you didn't :D **

[Cychalen]

Now that you mention it, I guess it is not life threatening. :p

[Whacky]

Has anyone used his TL01 for serious rallying.
How does the TL01 handel (with proper hopups) compared to the TB01??
And wat hopups do you use (have BB's and Oil shoks installed).

Have a TL01 and TB01-onroad (almost EVO) and i hate to swap chassis on the TB01 so i might want to convert my TL01 to Rally.

[Subie555]

Mine was setup for rallying ever since I bought it and its been running good so far.

The motor seems a little exposed to the elements and you can't get more than about 18mm of clearance because the shocks hit the lower arms(but I guess the Long Span suspension would fix this).

Apart from that it's great.

My hop-ups are:

Tamiya Type-T 23x1
LRP ESC
Carbon Prop Shaft
CVA Shocks
Ball Diffs F/R
Turnbuckle Steering
Ball Bearings(of course!)
Tamiya Rally Blocks
Speed Tuned Gears
TG-10 Springs

I would think that the TB-01 is better for rallying even though I don't own one.

Hope this helps.

Subie555

[SegaBowMan]

I don't have any measuring tools so what is the ride height of the beams integra TL01?

And which holes do you put in the body pin (the one that holds the body up) ? if you count from the top including top one?

In the front I use 7th and in the back I use the 4th. Every time I press on the front shocks, the body touches the ground.

[SegaBowMan]

I was looking for this page earlier
www.lunsfordracing.com in case anyone needs to know

[mrcthunderking]

I Just finished building a Cobra-R TL-01 kit. It's the first TL-01 I've bought in about 6 or 7 years. I forgot how simple and fun this chassis was! The only hop-ups I have right now are Novak Explorer2 esc, full bearings, and some Tamiya aluminum hex adaptors I already had laying around. I plan on keeping it pretty much stock except for some low cost mods. I always had fun with my other 2 TL-01's until I spent a fortune in upgrades and there were better cars out of the box for a fraction of the cost (not a knock on the TL-01, just an observation I made after wasting a ton of money hehe).

Anyone have the megatech TL-01 aluminum heatsink motor mount? I don't plan on buying one, but was curious from the looks of the design if it really even worked well???

I'm currently selling my home and moving to an apartment in a small city. That is gonna foul up most of my off-road r/c's but it's giving me a chance to get back into onroad. I have no plans of racing, but I will have access to alot of nearby parking lots and that's why I picked up the new TL-01. I've had the pleasure of owning some of those other cars in the past.. TC3 etc, and even though they are super smooth and super nice, they are race cars, and I want a fun car... so I bought a FUN car! I have no regrets! :D

[TRF Drive Hard]

Hey welcome BACK to TL01:D i have the motor heatsink/motor mount from megatech... it works and its very sweet lookin;)

[mrcthunderking]

TA03 Drive Hard, would it be possible for you to post a close-up pic of the motor mount on the car?? I'd appreciate it!

-eric

[Burnout]

Yea, I have been waiting very impatiently for Mr. TA03 DH to post pics of his super duper highly modded TL01. I don't think he has a digital camera (if he did then he would be pic posting crazy, don't you just love those IMG attachment forums!). He said he was going to post pics of it but I guess it could be today, tomorrow, or even next year. :mad:

And since I always strive for originality it would be nice to see his car. Without looking at it I could build a car that looks like his! Can't let that happen!


:D

[kold]

hey burnout, which body is that? who makes it, and what size is it? i want one like it, except red.

[TRF Drive Hard]

Originally posted by mrcthunderking
TA03 Drive Hard, would it be possible for you to post a close-up pic of the motor mount on the car?? I'd appreciate it!

-eric

Here is one, but its not on my car...