View Full Version : Traxxas T-Maxx Forum v1.0
SixVi6
11-21-2001, 08:44 PM
The engine is a Megatech .21 3 port.. rated at 2.1hp.. I got it with a t-beyond conversion kit that I originally bought. Soon the head will be silver thanks to EZoff and I'll probably port it just to get whacky.
I have not chewed up any gears or anythign with the .21 but I'm running a SuperMaxx Forward trans so I know that won't break. I actually had problems when I ported the stock TRX and still had the stock tranny. I chewed up a couple stock fwd primary gears in the tranny but that was because I really do put teh truck through the ringer.. I have this need to go higher and higher.. lol.. well then I put the RRP primary gear in there and had no other problems with the tranny but before I went .21 I decided to just get the SuperMaxx forward only first to avoid any headaches. but a totally stock trans will probably give pretty quick under the power of a .21 especially if you operate the throttle like an on/off switch.
AS far as the Nitro MT's I like them because they are small and lightwieght and 4wd.. but they are lead glass unless you buy every driveline hop up available. I used to have an Electric MT (which is a totally different truck and shares nothing but the name) and it was quite tough after I bought just a few hop ups. jumping and all it was mean but then I bought an E-maxx and that was the end of the EMT.. lol..
So what did you upgrade first? Like what breaks the most and stuff?
R/Cbum4life
11-21-2001, 10:11 PM
It's ten o'clock now and I can't run my maxx and I still haven't finished breaking it in! It is really boring driving around in circles just to let you know. Tomorow is turkey day so I'll have to run it before I get stuck at granny's house all day. :D
SixVi6
11-21-2001, 10:33 PM
well upgrades.. I put the basics in first.. fuel filter and good air filter.. then I put a high torque cirrus 80mgbb servo in there and some skids. upgrades are up to you.. of course if you break something, most lot of time its better to get a good aftermarket part or poke around for something used that is better. stuff that breaks the most I can't say.. nothin on mine broke just running it around the house and nieghborhood.. the only time I broke it around the house is when I hit this landscaping rock at full speed.. it broke an a-arm.. I then put RPM arms on there and have not broken them since. Jumping them is when you really start to break them.. this is where people end up saying that they break a lot. but if you take anyhting that is 10lbs and throw it 10 ft into the air and it lands on its side on cement it will break. the stock shock caps pop off pretty eazy then you jump it so shocks are a nive hop up also arms, al skids and braces are good hop ups too. like I said the aftermarket is immense and anything you break and be replaced with something better and tougher also because there are soo many parts out there you are never more than a day away from getting the truck back in running order.
hehe.. well its too late to run my t-maxx at the house now.. but I can run my e-maxx at 2:00 am if I want to.. lol.. :) I'm never far from satisfying the urge to run a maxx.. hey why don't you take the t-maxx to grannys! lol
JerryL
11-21-2001, 10:37 PM
Which chassis is that? I think I have seen one like it for sale but I can't be sure. It may have been a readers ride or something.
Jerry
SixVi6
11-21-2001, 10:52 PM
Its a SuperMaxx chasis.. from MonsterMaxx.com.. its pricey but the absolute strongest and best that is ever made. the lower brace is keyed in several places across the T-7075 alum chassis.. its strong enough to do this..
* * Disclaimer* * * do not attempt this yes this pic is real but this is dangerous and it was done by the creator to show just how strong the Supermaxx chasis is.. (http://members.home.net/sixvi6-camaro/ToyotaOnChassis.JPG)
one more pic of the bare chassis..
http://members.home.net/sixvi6-camaro/sm_01.jpg
Yeah, I have seen that pic before. I also am fond of the Cirrus CS-80 because they have a clear case, metal gears, bb's, high torque and they are only $23!!!! Can't beat that!!! Well here is the specs on the truck I am trading for, let me know if you think it is a good deal:
His truck:
dynamite .12 spd with deep dished piston for perfromance front and rear aluminum bumpers from hardcore racing trinity anodized blue gas cap revers lockout kit rrp steel spur aluminum rear skid plat rrp disk brake jr z 250 trottle servo hitech stering servo dodge durango body with professional paint job and kool decalsthe futaba radio and the stock tmaxx radio and the other traxxas radio also has 3 extra upper a-arms and front and rear body postextra spur gears but you dont even need to use them cause the steel one will never wair down also has ans associated tuned pipe and it also has shock risers and theres other stuff
My truck(s):
RTR Losi GTX with O.S. 1 HP CV-R racing motor and parts truck. One has a CV-R and Python controller. The other truck is parts truck with a spare Python. The parts truck is pretty much stock except titanium turnbuckles, and has all the original stuff, manual and everything. It only needs a few clutch parts. The other truck, the racer, has the CV-R (with less than a gallon through) in it, Airtronics servos, starter box, and is RTR, just add fuel and 8 AA batteries!! The starter box has been professionally modified and has a P2K Pro and a Pilot 23 turn motors in it, as onlong with an adapter which lets you plug it in your car lighter adapter socket, no need for batteries or having to wait for them!! The pics in the pictures are about 2 months old and some of the hop ups are not shown in the pics and neither is the parts truck or CV-R or the spare Python, but I will have new pics, I just have not posted them yet. Email me for them or if you have Any questions please email me at ss4trunks@satx.rr.com. I am willing to trade for a T-Maxx that is RTR. Here are the full specs of my truck:
>MIP CVD's
>MIP 2n1 clutch
>MIP stinger kit
>new Pro-line Street hawgs front and back
>RPM ball cups new on truck
>many tires and rims
>titanium trunbuckles
>graphite upper a-arms
>HG front aluminum shock tower new in package
>2 new spur gears in package
>2 JR Pythons, 1 new
>Trinity Nitro reciever pack, re heat shrinked
>2 Airtronics servos
>O.S. CV-R Great shape and compression
>spare truck
>spare parts
>Ofna starter box with mod motors
>2 bodies
>four sub c cells for a glow igniter & glow starter included
The older pics are www.geocities.com/gstarwin/GTX.html
SixVi6
11-22-2001, 01:01 AM
I looks like a decent trade. since yours is ready to run I'd at least make sure the t-maxx is ready to run or almost ready to run and in good shape. any pics of it? the problem I can see is that .12 SPD is going to be pretty low on the torque but after it gets rollin it will move pretty good unless its got an 18t clutch bell on it then it won't be as bad. some of the stuff is dead weight too like the bumpers and alum gas cap in my opinion. with the .12 in there its best to make it light.
Yeah, it is RTR and he said it had plenty of power. I dunno, this is going to be my first T so I don't know how much power a TRX would have. In my opinion, I would just slap an O'Donnel head on there(if they fit, do they?) and then when I saved up enough money I would buy like a 15 Hyper or something good and powerful, but it has to be blue, I care about color. For the meantime, I just can't figure out what I would slap in there for a decent powerplant, considering I would upgrade to SuperMaxx after that.
kojak61
11-22-2001, 07:05 PM
Can anyone email me the entire instuction manual for the Tmaxx?
Thw whole thing? I am getting one but I don't want to scan that whole thing for free!!!!! Just buy a new one!!! When I get my T in the mail in the next week or so I will sell you a copy of it for $10 shipped. LMK Oh, SiXVi6, I never got your PM!!!! My inbox was full.
SixVi6
11-22-2001, 09:29 PM
no problem GTX.. I 'll just post it here.. engines I've had direct experience with..
-- the low buck engine king is the ported TRX .. I loved mine and ran one of two of them most of the time and if it broke it was eazy to get parts used from people online. I mean whole running engines for $25 cheap.
-- then the .18.. don't ask and don't bother.. ABN sleve and constant 280 deg temps is a bad thing. I had one it was a problem..
--On to my favs.. the OS engines.. the .15 CV hyper is probably the best engine for trouble free running but you will need a slide carb conversion to run it. I ran a regular .15 cv with I think an odonell head on it and it was great really eazy to tune and lasted forever so a hyper would probably be even better. The .12 CVR I had I ran with a smaller 18t bell on and it was nuts.. It was on loan to moe until my .21 conversion arrived and was "tired" from a hard racing season from what I was told.. tired or not it had lots of power and good top speed but was more pickey on the tunning. basically for a bashin worry free engine I like the OS .15 hyper.
Other engines people have been talking about for maxxes that I have no experience with...
--the Megatech M16.. its cheap but its hit or miss.. they either fail within a short time and run horribly or are great also lots of quality issues and differences from one engine to the next..
--the new Fantom engines I hear are excelent but are really new.. so I've not heard too much about them.
-- other people have tried .12 racing engines and such but they are pickey on tunning and usually most peole do not want to mess with tuning when really bashing their maxx.
most like the extra torque the .15's make but there are not a lot of good pull start .15s out that make over 1hp.. there are a few but most people like ease of tunning and reliability in a maxx truck rather than sheer hp and rpm.
Cool, I think I will go with the Hyper 15. I heard they make it pull wheelies, is this true? I bought a 15 Hyper for my GTX but I saw that it had the wrong arb on it so I returned it for a bunch of stuff(I bought it from Tower) and bought a CV-R used on eBay for $85. I had some tuning problems with it, it was running rich, so I leaned it out a little and as luck would have it I need a new glow plug!!! So I don't know if that will throw of the tuning I did, but I am going to the hobby shop tomorrow. I will let you guys know what's up then, and if I like it cuz I might buy another one considering they are only about $25 more. So they had plenty of power for you? I bet, although I have yet to make my GTX do wheelies!!!! I have it geared for more acceleration (which is called gearing it up I think) and it still won't do it. I think my problem is I need to tighten down the slipper clutch. Is that it? O, one more thing, Traxxas said going through mud and climbing hills alot can put strain on the clutch, is this true? If it is, then I will get an MIP clutch, because that's what I have in my GTX and it is really nice and I like it.
R/Cbum4life
11-22-2001, 11:30 PM
My t came with me today to grandma's. I inhaled my food and went out and ran it. I kinda of ruined the dinner for the rest of the family. (oops)I have a few questions and a few comments. When you guys go at slow speeds does the truck from a dead stop sometimes studder and kick in and out of gear? And if I wanted to extend the exhaust to go out the back with a large pvc clear see through tube would it mess the performance up to run it through lik 6 inches of tube? The brakes are really sweet on that beast too. I flipped it over forward even! The nieghbors already hate the noise
:p Would a tuned pipe make it even louder (that would be even better those stupid neighbors are gonna get over it:)
-Nicholas~~~~~~~~~_/)
SixVi6
11-23-2001, 01:57 AM
GTX.. to run a Hyper .15 you will need a slide carb kit. MaxxLite.com has an excelent slide carb kit and its inexpensive. Both the OS engines I had.. both the .15 cv and the .12 CVR were great. the .12 CVR was more touchy as far as tunning and what helped out in the acceleration department for the lack of torque in the .12 was putting an 18 tooth clutch bell on.. stock they have a 20t. Yeah to do wheelies in any RC you have to crank the slipper clutch all the way down. I run my .21 maxx and my e-maxx with the slipper cranked all the way down. Wheelies are just fun. Full on race engines like the RB .12's and .12 CVR's and such are great but they make power at higher RPM and they tend to run hot in the heavyweight t-maxx. Also mega high output .12's are a pain to tune. The .15 cv that I was running was the easiest starting and running and tunning engine I've had.
As far as the clutch.. I've used stock.. or stock that hasbeen lightned just a bit.. even on my .21.. I've had no problems at all but mud and such can get into the clutchbell and make it slip and wear it but it would take a while to do. I just take it out once in a while and clean it up and take sandpaper to the inside of the clutchbell to resurface it.
R/Cbum4life.. The shuddering is the internal clutches for the forward and reverse switching. its normal and won't hurt anything. running a PVC tube is said to change performance but when I ran mine like that I didn't notice a thing. A tunned pipe can make it louder. a CVEC pipe is louder and so is an MIP stinger.. I used to run the stock rc10 gt pipe because it gave a lot of torque and it was a about the same mabey a bit quieter than stock. lol.. if you want loud.. I got this dual exhaust thing.. the truck looses low end performance but it makes it incredibly loud. at the limit of radio range you can still hear the truck screaming. now that loud..
I hope everybody had a good thanksgiving.. mine was pretty good.
R/Cbum4life
11-23-2001, 11:13 AM
This is the greatest forum. I ask a question and can actually get an answer with in a day. Thats good stuff. The guy at my LHS is a nitro pro so i'll have to ask him about it. It doesn't seem like it would make much difference. Thanks for your pipe recomendations I am going to look into one of those!
Man, i haven't even used my stinger yet!!!! Dang, o well, actually, today I am going to the hobby shop to get a new glow plug and I am going to tighten down that slipper too!!! I will check back with you guys, maybe get a video of it. Do you guys know how to upload it to the PC? My dad and I have only figured out how to take pics, and to add to that, my dad is like the computer guru!!!:eek: :p
SixVi6
11-23-2001, 06:51 PM
lol.. I just got back from thrashing my T-maxx against my buddies HPI MT.. it was funny. at one point he wasted to try to push my t-maxx and we were nose to nose.. lol.. when I had the brake on he could not even move me then I gave it a little throttle and pushed him backwards. then I gave it full throttle and drove over him. I showed him the fine points of the .21 are while in some loose gravel. his stock MT can barely spin all four tires in the loose gravel.. but my t-maxx.. was throwing it all over the place my maxx was also pulling wheelies at will and creating general meyham, those geese will never be the same.. then his MT hit a tree and broke the control arm clean off the truck. funny I hit a few trees and landed some horrible jumps and it was fine. ok well the body is shot now but the maxx still goes. now he is beginning to understand why I sold my MT.. he says if there wern't trees everywhere his MT would keep going and going and not break at all, so tomorow I will find a construction site to test his MT and bash my maxx. I'll bring the digital comera to get some pics too. It should be fun..
Cool. I am going to take some pics tomorrow of my GTX, hopefully of some wheelies!!! :D Hey, the guy I am trading with, BTW we sealed the deal, said that the .12 SPD he has in there now quote"belive it or not that .12 smoke stock tmaxxes with the trx pro.15 my friend and i always race and iv smoked him just about everytime that engine akes it do willys if you put the other pinion gear that i included in the trade the deep dished piston helps it alot toif that engine wasnt enought power for that max i wuldnt have put it in there and the engine has only has about a half a gallon run in it when the tmaxx gets on a straight away and hits second gear it just screams and leans back it halls ass it does over 30 mph a stock tmaxx does 29.6 mph", so hopefully it will be great. I want to get it like on Friday so I can practice with it and hopefully race it with some of the other T-Maxxes. Hey SixVi6, do you know if those new heads from Hardcore (http://www.racinghardcore.com) fit teh Dynamite 12 SPD? Or if they don't do you know anyone that does custom anodizing and/or ports and polishes engines???? I really wanna open that SPD up!!!! Oh, and one more thing- I want to get my 9 year old bro in RC. My friend has a TC3 and he wants to sell it, he is selling it for a very low price, which I will not say here, and may even include a Cyclone and FM radio, and it's pretty much complete, just add batteries and charger. And after he wants to move up to nitro he can get that Trinity nitro conversion. Then if he wants to go off-road with me he can make it a rally car cuz it's shaft driven. I think it would really be a great first "real" RC. What do you think?
R/Cbum4life
11-23-2001, 11:40 PM
heres my two cents. I would personally reccomend the stampede. It is one of the greatest electric trucks out there. It is really strong and will keep him entertained. The tc3 aint going to be skying off of any jumps anytime soon and nitro is going to be costly. Consider the stampede it is totally worth it. Durable, cheap parts, fast, and it can go anywhere. Kinda of like the t's little brother.
Yeah, but he has ADHD (attention deficite somethin disorder and he doesn't like to build kits and his att. span is about 3 minutes long, but RC cars have always been cool with him) and I would let him drive my T-Maxx just like I let him drive my GTX. I know he likes it and he says he doesn't and he really likes tanks but those are really freaking expennsive. He has a temper too though, the last RC truck he had was a $50 toys r us truck that he hurled 20 feet in the air cuz he got pissed at it and he broke the front A-arm on the landing so I think it will go better as a TC. I would just put some long travel shocks on it anyway and he would still jump it. I may just get the TC3 and then trade it for the stampede. I liked the stampede being the little bro of the T R/C bum, that was good. I dunno, I will see if he likes it. What do you think SixVi6?
Hey guys, GREAT NEWS!!!! I found an emaxx that needs some parts, about $200 worth, icluding electronics but I already have a spare radio for it. It's PERFECT :D :D :D :D Great, now my bro will be SOOOO happy, but I will have to work very hard to fix it up. Anyone know what those EVX ESC's go for???? Oh, and what motors should I use? I know this is the T forum but this place is so comfy and supportive. I think I feel all warm and tingly inside!! ;) hehe, :p :cool:
SixVi6
11-24-2001, 02:21 PM
well EVX's new are really $$$$ I think the cheapest I've seen for a new EVX is $150. as far as motors I'm sure you could buy a used set of titans.. they are super low maintence just get a can of motor spray and spray them out once in a while there are no brushes to change or anything and they are fast and still give excelent run time. if you get lucky you might be able to pick up an EVX and titans for dirt cheap from somebody that has gone brushless. I was lucky and bought the EVX and titans for mine for $65 from of course, MaxxTraxx..
also too the good part is the suspension parts and some of the chassis parts are interchangeable from the E to the T making it easier to work on. I have both an E-maxx and T-maxx and love it. Just be carefull.. the E-maxx is seriously a powerfull truck. with 2400's in my E and all stock electronics it will wheelie in second gear from a standstill and in first gear if you go full throttle it will just flip itself onto its lid. the E-maxx in a short drag race will destroy a small block T-maxx but in the long run the t-maxx will have a higher top speed. They are a blast to race against eachoter.. I let my sister drive my e-maxx while I drive my t-maxx as its fun and drag races used to be close... but now with the .21 in my t-maxx the E is left in the dust.. lol.
I don't know if the new Hardcore head will work on the SPD .12 and as far as porting give Jesse a e-mail.. He's ported everything from stock TRX's to picco .21's and opened up a ton of engines.. here is a link to his page..
http://www.geocities.com/caulk_j/indexmain.htm
I just wanted to say that I just picked up an early T-Maxx used. The PO (previous owner) bought it because he was tired of waiting for the E-Maxx and got this one, broke in the engine, ran two or three tanks through it, and crashed it into a tree. After that he put it away. From what I understand he bought the parts to repair it but he has not given them to me, yet.
Parts I need to get this thing running:
air filter, fuel tank, front bulkhead, front shock tower, front bumper mounts, front bumper, and a transmitter (the receiver was in the box but no sign of the transmitter), EZ Start unit, and a body. Some of this stuff I should be able to get from the PO as he finds them. Not bad for $80, eh?
I spent last night cleaning it up and porting the engine. I might have a line on a transmitter. I will convert it to pullstart, and I will pick up a Motorsavers air filter as well as a fuel filter. The front shock tower has a pulltie holding it together for now but I plan on replacing that, too.
Hey thanks SixVi6, but now I have to get that E-Maxx running!!!!! I have a trade for some of the parts and a charger, so I am getting there. I am probably going to have to mow some lawns to get some of the extra money. I want to buy some cool blue or purple stablemaxx rims but he said he likes red(he doesn't know about this and would never see it coming anyway) so I don't know if I should buy some white ones and dye them or buy some chrome ones and use some of Tamiya's translucent paint!!! Anyways, you bought that T for just $80!!!! That was a good deal for you but he got totally ripped off!!!! He could have sold the tranny only for $80!!!!! What a deal!!! Anyways, hey SixVi6, you got any spare parts you could sell or possibly trade me???? I really need some diff gears and some tranny gears, oh, and I need a motor plate and some motors. What motors would you suggest that wouldn't blow my budget? I know the stock motors haul ass, so I thought those would be good, but I thought I would ask someone who has an E-Maxx. Oh, I almost forgot, are the front and rear diff interchangable? I also heard that the T and the E use different size shafts, is this true?
SixVi6
11-25-2001, 06:29 PM
$80!! thats a steal.. sheesh.. GTX is right the tranny is worth $80 used.. lol you could part it out as is and make money from it.
GTX.. if you are looking for e-maxx stuff I don't have anything left. I used the e-maxx electronics I bought n a Jugg that I used to have. I'm building another t-maxx from the leftover parts I have so I have no extra diff parts and no tranny parts at all.
as far as parts compatibility I've swapped slider drive shafts and axles from the t-maxx to my e-maxx w/o any problems and everyhitng suspension wise is compatable.. also the braces (aka ladder bars), skids, bulkheads, steering, diffs and gears, and most all screws are also all interchangeable from the E to the T and Yes the front and rear diffs are interchangeable.
Stock motors in teh e-maxx are the best for low maintence great run time and power. if you bought other motors such as the trinity maxx ones you would have to worry about the brushes and maintence of an open endbell motor. I run the stockers in my E and all I ever do is spray some motor cleaner in there once in a while and put a drop of oil on the brushes.
CCool, then I am getting the Titans. Man, that's such a cool name. Man, I hope I win that auction, I am gonna be working my butt off!!!! Well, I bet it is worth it though, I am going to have a blast with those things!!!!
JerryL
11-25-2001, 08:35 PM
Well guys I got an early Christmas present Last night. I now have the best of both worlds. A T-Maxx to satisfy my nirto monster truck craving and an E-Maxx to satisfy my electrifing desire to run stuff over. BTW I got the bright green body for my E-Maxx.
Jerry
SixVi6
11-25-2001, 10:22 PM
Yes that is so the way to go JerryL.. E-maxx and T-maxx. I have them both and love it. Its great because of the parts interchangeability and since the e-maxx is quiet even at night you can breat out a maxx and have a blast.
JerryL
11-26-2001, 12:24 AM
Well I had to choose between the TXT-1 and the E-Maxx.
The Pros and Cons that I considered was:
1. E-Maxx is RTR and $379. (No radio gear to buy, no ESC to buy and no motors to upgrade compared to the TXT-1.)
2. E-Maxx shares all suspension parts with the T-Maxx. (As you mentioned above.)
3. E-Maxx is FAST out of the box without any upgrades. (Enough said!)
4. Parts availability, I can't think of one single vehicle that can come close to a T/E-Maxx. (Well as I typed that the Clod does come to mind.)
5. The E-Maxx was just sitting there on the shelf calling my name. (Besides T-Maxx had been wanting to have a brother to play with and to help him trough this Tree phobia that he has.) ;)
Speaking of quite operation, I was running it this morning at the Hotel before most people were even awake. Well except the 5 adults and 1 kid that was OOOing and AHHHing. I must admit the run time using 1900s was longer then I expected. I am hoping that one of my family members heard my plees for another charge. One that will do AC/DC and two batteries at once. My Piranha Peak is screaming "UNCLE" after charging two batteries back to back.
One last note, I really, really HATE glueing tires to rims. :mad:
Jerry
R/Cbum4life
11-26-2001, 05:37 PM
How can I tell fi I running at the right temp? I have a bit of smoke coming at high speed which I heard was good but it seems like it runs really hot. Also it seems to run really good at high speed but after idling a while when I nail the gas again it takes a while then suddenly it kicks in and takes off like a rocket. Any suggestions or comments are welcome:confused:.
R/Cbum4life
11-26-2001, 05:38 PM
Sorry I can't resist but we HIT PAGE 8! yeah baby!
JerryL
11-27-2001, 12:41 AM
How can I tell fi I running at the right temp? I have a bit of smoke coming at high speed which I heard was good but it seems like it runs really hot. Also it seems to run really good at high speed but after idling a while when I nail the gas again it takes a while then suddenly it kicks in and takes off like a rocket. Any suggestions or comments are welcome.
Well if you are running a TRX it normally runs hot.
One way to test if the engine is running too hot is to drip one drop of water onto the head. If it stays for a few seconds then evaporates away the temp is fine. If it sizzles right away then your engine is running too hot.
Another way to test if the engine is running too hot is to buy a temp gauge.
Incidently, if you pull the truck up too you and the head is steaming without the application of moister you better shut it down fast or at the very least enrichen the highspeed needle a little as this is a good sign that the engine is running way too hot, usually due to running your engine way too lean. It happened to me so I can testify to this last point personally. :o And btw, it took a lot less time for the engine to come to "operating" temp.
The smoke is a sign of being too lean or too rich. The more smoke the richer the engine is running. The less smoke the leaner the engine is running. This really isn't a way to tell if your engine is running too hot or not. Although it can be a clue for you to use as a reason to check your engines temp, as you have.
And to answer your last question this is due to what I refer to as the engine is "Loading up." In other words after idling for even what you may think is a short time the engine is getting "boged" down by excess fuel there for "Loading up." You may want to check your lowspeed needle. But this is normal to an extent which is why racers rev the motor while holding the vehicle.
I really hope this helps answer your questions,
Jerry
R/Cbum4life
11-27-2001, 11:22 PM
Thanks for your help Jerry. Anthor thing that I need help with. I am looking into making some swaybars but I have no idea how to attach them to the arms or in the middle of the truck. If anyone has pictures of swaybars that they made or if you know of some places on the web that sells them or has pictures of them then post away. Thanks!
-Nicholas~~~~~~~~_/)
SixVi6
11-28-2001, 12:50 AM
I made some with some thick steel wire... I just zip tied them onto the arms and onto the bumper mounts. they worked great but got mangled pretty easily in a hard crashes and they were hard to bend back into shape so I took them off after a couple days.
There was a guy on Maxxtraxx who had one the other day. he also has them on ebay. I my self picked up a brand new team RC10GT, one of the older tub chassis, brand new, with O.S. CV Hyper non-pull for a great deal!!! It was a trade, I traded my friend for my Cybiko PDA and the MP3 Player it comes with. Great deal, especially for me, he also gave me two servos with it so I can take the extra transmitter and reciever coming with my T-Maxx (that will be here on Saturday or Monday) and run them both!!! It only needs a front turnbuckle and some other nick nack things but I need to get a cheap bearing set cuz it was just upgraded to team. So, I traded two stadium trucks and got another, isn't that wierd. Well anyways, I am not going to be able to run them until next weekend, AAAHHHHH! I am going to go nuts waiting to start these things up cuz I still need a body and a starter for the GT!!!! :D Anyone got a GT body or starter for cheap?
SixVi6
11-28-2001, 06:37 PM
well I just posting this pic because it looks wicked..
http://members.home.net/sixvi6-camaro/sm_04.jpg
ehh just noticed.. I have the rear SM center drive in.. but I need to hit the LHS and pick up the parts to convert to a dual disk brake and get my front center drive installed along with it. I think tomorow looks like a good day for a field trip with the T to the LHS..
Hey is there a hole on the bottom of your T? One that you can bump start it with? I want to know cuz I might buy a bump start for it.
SixVi6
11-28-2001, 10:33 PM
With a setup Like this... (http://www.tmaxxunlimited4.homestead.com/files/Dsc00087.jpg) or a cvec header or like my old setup..
http://members.home.net/sixvi6-camaro/maxx_32.jpg.. It is then easy to bump star them with an rc plane starter and a rubber car adapter wheel... A starter box though will never happen. the braces are in the way.
R/Cbum4life
11-29-2001, 04:05 PM
Hey what is a good starting point to put my high speed needle at. I just cant keep this thing running cool. Also how can I tell if my glow plug is bad? Please help!
MaxxThrasher
11-30-2001, 10:01 AM
What to do about ur high end needle??? I myself have crashed 2 high end needles and know that most people just flip the carburator around 180 degrees to help protect the needle (this puts the needle in the center of the truck) and to ease the adjustment of the low end needle. For some reason(as many times i've had my carb. off) i've never done this. Instead, i put a OS .15 high end needle on my TRX engine. The OS is more of a low profile needle and this has worked out just fine.
What i have done is just to take the glow plug out, put it on ur glow ignitor and if it glows bright with ease then its prob. just fine. If its dim or lights slowly, proib. needs replacing.
MaxxThrasher
11-30-2001, 10:16 AM
Does anyone have the specs. on the TRX Pro .15 Engine???
BHP
Bore
Stroke
Displacment
RPM Range
Sure would like to compare this to the OS and Megatech engines.
Spinner2
11-30-2001, 04:25 PM
I dont know about bore and stroke but the TRX Pro puts out about .45hp
I thought it would have more than that! Man, if it only has .45 and that Dynamite SPD has .50, then it would produce more HP. Why doesn't Traxxas make their TRX with more HP? Oh, and SixVi6, are you sure that the starter and the wheel and stuff works with the T and it will work with my Hyper, even if I have to flip the exhuast?
SixVi6
12-01-2001, 03:11 AM
well I cant say for sure but it works on the .21's. and I know of a couple people that use that method to start their non pull .15's.. . they make a pull start version Hyper.. that might be the way to go.
The TRX puts out nothing stock. .45 is on the high side runnign it lean and having crazy high temps imo.. the good part is that the reason they put out nothing and run hot is because the case ports are horrible. they do not line up to the ports on the sleve. I have a couple ported TRX's and the difference is insane. my full ported TRX (this includes a case port, sleve work, rod knife edges, crank work, and opening up and smoothing the carb throat) was insane. it would pull wheelies with stock gearing and was just as fast as my friends M16 powered Maxx.
Here is a link to a good article on case porting the TRX. (http://www.nitrorc.com/mods/engines/trx15mod.html)
MaxxThrasher
12-01-2001, 10:12 AM
Thanx 4 the info guys but i still would like to know the stroke and bore if anyone knows.
I also have made those mods on my TRX and am just trying to figure out if what i have done (which i believe is all u can do for this poor engine) makes the TRX just as good(or better) then opting for a M 16 or OS .15?? And could the M16 and OS be modified this way also making them even better???
Does anyone have problems with the crank bearings leaking on their TRX? MY leaks like crazy and my friends does too. Ever since we've bought them. Are there some better bearings out there to replace these or do all 2 stroke engines leak like this?
Yeah, I think they are all like that. I don't know where you can get better bearings from, but I would contact BocaBearings and ask them. I think I may trade my new RC10GT for a .21 conversion. Hey SixVi6, got any of those just layin around? Anyone else?
jeepdude_1
12-01-2001, 10:49 AM
I have 4 T-Maxxs with .21 on them, They are fun to go out and rip up the dirt but the one I have the most fun with is the stock one with an OS cvx .15 and A pipe. Even my Pirates arent as fun. You have to work A little harder to get it to do what you want but thats the fun part. I didint mean to change the sugject but I thought you might like to here this.:D :D :p
PS. The Maxx ROCKS !!!!!!!!!! :D
Hey SixVi6, can you tell me where that stuff is to bump start a T? I can find where you wrote it last and I need to get that stuff if I want to put my 15 Hyper in there. Oh, and my T will be here Wednesday!!!!!! I am so freaked!!!! :D :eek: :cool: :rolleyes: :p
James414
12-02-2001, 05:04 PM
I had the chance to see a T-Maxx run for the first time yesterday on DIY network, the title of the show is called Radio Controlled Hobbies. I think I have a new rig to purchase. That ride loks totally awesome. It looked as if it could go through or over anything. Great Truck
Okay, it's been a week and I've done a few things to the 'Maxx since I got it: The new parts I got from the seller were a front bulkhead set, fuel tank, Powerline aluminum shock tower and a Parma F350 body. I ported the block and crank, took out the Cheezy-Start, put in a pullstarter sideways (easy access from the side of the body), filled the diffs with automotive bearing grease, installed the Traxxas forward-only shaft, installed the wider plastic hexes (forgot who made them), and waterproofed the servos.
I was wondering what air filter I should run on the stock TRX-15 carb? Motorsavers does not make one the right size and I want one with a water shield.
MaxxThrasher
12-03-2001, 08:47 AM
How ever you came upon the conclusion that a Motor saver air filter would'nt fit your stock TRX carb. it totally false, They even have a nice one with a mud gaurd. I have Motor savers on mine and works just great!
SixVi6
12-05-2001, 07:44 PM
woohoo! I'm back.. it feels good.. I was on that stupid @home service and of course they shut it down.. now I'm back on AT&T's network and it feels good to have the internet again. lol.. It was a bad weekend for my maxx trucks. I crashed them both. Now both trucks are running one stock lower arm and the rest all Blue RPM arms. lol.. I took off the shocks, shock tower and pulled the lower hing pin and This (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/damage_03.jpg) happened. It just fell apart. yes.. I made myself a Three piece bulkhead (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/damage_02.jpg) in this crash. Its a first for me! lol..
I also got bored since the T-maxx was apart and ported my Megatech .21.. woo! it used to pull wheelies only when I leaned it out a bit and gave it a few tries.. now it wheelies at will.. no multiple tries and even when rich.. lol. ever wonder the size difference between a .15 and .21's piston and sleve? well click here (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/damage_01.jpg)
and now some other new pics..
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/sm_06.jpg
Yes I de-annod the .21's head (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/sm_07.jpg)
That pink head crap was just killin' me and my intake elbow is on its way.. I have the copper tube look but it works for now.
Finally I put the front SuperMaxx drive in (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/sm_08.jpg)
That looks tight. I still haven't got my T!!!! It should have been here today!!! Man I'm ticked!!!:mad:
NItro-Smoke
12-05-2001, 11:08 PM
Hey there nice Maxx!! what .21 conversion kit did you go with? There are so many its hard really to pick out one and which one is the best for the $$$!!
SixVi6
12-06-2001, 12:39 AM
The SuperMaxx chassis from Unlimited Engineering..
www.MonsterMaxx.com
Its the best out there and you pay for it but after you have supermaxx parts.. there is just to looking back. its T-7075 aluminum and is much stronger than any other chassis out there.
try looking for Unlimited Engineering SuperMaxx stuff at StormerHobbies.com or at MaxxTraxx.com's online mall for the best deals.
I got my T-Maxx!!!!!!!!! YEAH!!!!!! :D :D :D :D But,:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: The guy who sent it left out some stuff and some of the truck was broke, and now I had to open up a can of wup-ass on him and had my dad have a little talk with his mom and I am going to give here all the emails and she will see if he really owes that stuf to me, which he does. he really didn't know who he was trying to rip off!!!!!!:cool:
R/Cbum4life
12-06-2001, 09:59 PM
Hey gtx im sorry to here about your problems.That was the main reason I was scared to buy one off of e-bay. Where did you get yours from? How much did you pay? im just curious. This dumb guy on e-bay bought a set of rpm arms for $55! HA they saw him coming. You can get them cheaper than that from a LHS. I now have my cable net working to! THANK GOODNESS!!!!:) Im wondering if anybody has some rpm arms that they would want to sell to me. I'll pay up to $30 and pick up the shipping. Let me know.
-Nicholas~~~~~~~_/)
I traded for mine. I may have a trade for another one!!! :D
Pics of my T-Maxx and RC10GT!!! They aren't that good, and I only got one body shot. I should have got a shot of the front bulks, where he JB welded them!!
http://www.geocities.com/gstarwin/0001.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/gstarwin/0002.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/gstarwin/0003.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/gstarwin/0005.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/gstarwin/0006.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/gstarwin/0007.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/gstarwin/0009.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/gstarwin/0011.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/gstarwin/0012.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/gstarwin/0013.jpg
Also, here is the GTX I traded to him for the T:
http://www.geocities.com/gstarwin/DukesStuff001.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/gstarwin/DukesStuff002.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/gstarwin/DukesStuff003.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/gstarwin/DukesStuff004.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/gstarwin/DukesStuff005.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/gstarwin/GTX.html -lots of pics, let them load!
JerryL
12-09-2001, 09:58 PM
Well my T-Maxx is slowly but surely on it's way back to running order. It has been cleaned from bumper to bumper and if it wasn't for all of the scratches on the used parts it could almost pass for new. You know what? These monsters are a lot easier to clean when they are on the workbench in a hundred pieces. The new Megatech Motor and motor mount are sitting proudly on the new stock chassis. And the new Motorsaver air filter is mounted on the carb to help protect it. You wouldn't believe how many screws I had to replace from being bent or halfway stripped. It also is now sporting a new High Torque (110 oz-in) servo for steering and I used the 2055 stock servo for shifting instead of the 2018. Hopefully this will allow it to shift with more authority and more securely. Not that I had a problem in the past but "MORE POWER" is good. ;)
And as part of it's recovery process I am installing a new Toyota Tundra body onto it. I have already trimed the body and put liquid masking on it. I also used the "seran wrap" trick as the Parma body I bought doesn't come with protective film. I need to go find a pic of a Toyota Stadium or Baja truck and see how hard it would be to duplicate it onto my new T-Maxx body.
I still need to finish replacing the shocks with Big Bores. I have two on it now but want to get six more to finish the upgrade. These shocks are so awesomely smooth and easy to maintain it is just too cool. The only thing Traxxas could do to improve them is to make them threaded.
I still need to go buy some new fuel as I don't trust what I have now since it has been sitting in my garage for months. I don't want to toast a $130 motor because I was too cheap to buy a $15 gallon of new fuel. That would be a bad thing. :)
Jerry
Hey, you should put some of those pics up of the Tundra body, I want to see one of those. Who makes it, Parma?
JerryL
12-09-2001, 10:23 PM
Yes it is a Parma Body. I wanted something to set my T-Maxx apart from my E-Maxx visually. And what better way then to choose a body other then a F-350. But don't get me wrong I do prefer the F-350 bodies over Dodge, Chevy, and Toyota but I wanted to be a little different. That desire to be different is why I bought the Flouescent Green bodied E-Maxx instead of the other colors. Right now my Tundra body is just clear with purple seran wrap on it. So I guess it would be purple then wouldn't it? :D I will try to put some pics up but I don't have a working digital camera at home right now. So I try to remember to take it to work with me and use the camera there. I want to get a work in progress picture album as it will be the first time that I have "Airbrushed" a R/C body.
Jerry
R/Cbum4life
12-10-2001, 08:52 PM
Jerry whats this business about only liking ford anyways? The only real trucks are chevys and gmc's didnt anyone ever tell you that?;) Anyways GTX your links for all of your pictures aren't working. I just thought I would let you know. I finsished making someswaybars for my t and the difference is incredible!
-Nicholas~~~~~~_/)
Yes, I know I am correcting that.
JerryL
12-11-2001, 02:52 AM
Well I have a pic of the Tundra Body unpainted but with liquid mask and seran wrap on it.
Here it is:
Got Speed
12-11-2001, 09:27 PM
WOOOOHOOO I finally have one. :D
Can I put 70wt oil in my big bores? I am running on a medium speed track, which is semi rough.
What CVDs should I buy?
Does megatech make good quality aluminum parts?
What are the first upgrades I should make other than shocks, engine, and pipe
Thanx
JerryL
12-12-2001, 01:14 AM
WOOOOHOOO I finally have one.
Can I put 70wt oil in my big bores? I am running on a medium speed track, which is semi rough.
What CVDs should I buy?
Does megatech make good quality aluminum parts?
What are the first upgrades I should make other than shocks, engine, and pipe
Thanx
Congradulations on your new truck
Yes but 50wt is all that is needed unless you are going to do some extremely severe jumping . And I HIGHLY suggest buying the Aluminum Big Bores as some folks have reported that the plastic shock caps on the stock shocks will "pop" off. I have not had that problem and I jump my truck constantly.
MIP, I don't think anyone could argue against MIP as their reputation precedes them.
I have not heard anyone say a bad word about Megatech parts yets. I have thier M16 engine but have not ran it yet. I also have thier motor mount and the quality of craftmanship seems real good. But again, I have not ran my T-Maxx since putting these parts on my truck.
Take the stock pipe apart and remove the baffle after you break in the engine. Then remove the primer pump if so equiped. I think the new T-Maxx trucks are coming from Traxxas without the primer now anyways. Flip the carb around so that you can actually get to the low speed needle. Motorsaver three stage air filter is a good choice. A Metal geared coreless servo that puts out at least 100 in-oz of torque for the steering. It isn't a must have but it might come in handy. RPM A-Arms are AWESOME. Titanium Turnbuckles and hindge pins. The stock hindge pins bend like there is no tomorrow. At least that has been my experience. But what do you expect when my T-Maxx's favorite trick to perform seems to be cartwheels. :D
Hardcore Ti skids, front, center and rear as they don't bend. But until I hit a tree my stock skids had held up real well.
With that said, it has been my experience that the stock parts can take a beating. And they are usually lighter than aluminum parts which is a good thing when racing. You might want to check out the Megatech 4.5mm chassis. It is a full 2mm thicker than the stock chassis. And it is the thickest aluminum chassis I found other then the stock chassis for only about $10 to $20 bucks more.
The only thing else that I think is a must have is a ton of extra screws. Especially the ones that hold the skid plates on and shock towers on. The ones that hold the chassis to the bulkhead strip easy too but that may just be me.
Last but not least, there is a longer list of hop-ups on page one, two or three of this thread.
Hope this helps,
Jerry
R/Cbum4life
12-13-2001, 09:37 PM
Originally posted by JerryL
the plastic shock caps on the stock shocks will "pop" off.
Jerry
They don't pop off they explode! I blew a set on the back of my stampede within the first week. I am quite mean to my pede but the maxx is being treated a little nicer until I get used to it and until I can get some $ to replace the stock plastics on my maxx. I went al big bore on my stampede and it was one of the greatest differences I have seen in the truck. They are so nice and smooth:)
Thats all for now folks!
Hey guys, I just want this TRX I may buy ported for torque and a little top speed, but I don't want to run it 5 minutes on a full tank of gas, I want it to actually run a little while. Got any ideas on how to do this? I am going to put it in my T-Maxx, and it is an older model.
Wooohooo!! We hit page 9!!!!
My bad on the Motorsavers filter. I picked up a new one with the mud shield and it fit fine.
R/Cbum4life
12-15-2001, 08:08 PM
what are some good things to do to snowproof a t. let me know.
Waterballoon the reciever, and put some silicone on the end and wires so it closes it up water tight, put some of that on the cases on the servos where they join, put or make an extension on the air filter so it will stay on there and be higher up. Also waterballoon the batteries if you don't have a battery box. I think that is it.
R/Cbum4life
12-15-2001, 11:15 PM
Should I be worried about rust? I mainly am concerned about the bearings getting rusted and not working b/c they are mucho expensivo (is that spanish?) the screws and stuff I don't really care about. And how about the motor how possible is it that I'll get snow in the carb or something. Lastly how can I extend the air filter to get it higher up like you said. I know you wil all reccomend the motor saver filter but is that worth the ten bucks? Just for a piece of foam, the stock one seems to work fine for me. Oh before I forget do any of guys have signatures for this forum that actually work.
Thanks,
~Nicholas~~~~~~~~_/)
I have never run in snow before, but when my Kyosho Sandmaster (when I still had it) plunged into a creek, it was waterlogged and a few days later it ran fine, AND IT WAS A KYOSHO! So, I wouldn't think the bearings will rust if you just spray some WD-40, and then lube them. I believe GS racing makes an extension, but you can make your own if you want. I would check your LHS. The motor savers are good from what I have heard, and I would get the mud guard too. I would actually spray the whole thing down with WD-40 afterwards. If you got snow in the carb, it would probably kill the engine, and cause rust unless you put some WD-40 or after-run oil in it. My sandmaster did okay and that thing had been through a lot. It was my first gas RC. It ran out of range one time and climbed up a fence!!!! Hey, while your at it, can you check out my website? I just redesigned it. Thanks.
www.geocities.com/gstarwin
I think you will like it!!!
Poolboy51
12-16-2001, 03:32 AM
Does anyone know if you can put after-market engines on the original T-MAXX engine mounts and if so, which ones?
I think all small blocks fit. I think.
R/Cbum4life
12-16-2001, 12:24 PM
Not a bad website although I noticed you spelled hotmail wrong on your website so you might want to change that it says "hotmial." How should I make and extender?
Hey thanks I didn't notice that. Uh, I would say some rubber hose of somesort.
MaxxThrasher
12-16-2001, 02:23 PM
OS CV .15 and Megatech M-16 fit perfectly on the stock TRX engine mount.
" I drank what?"
TunaMaxx
12-16-2001, 03:01 PM
Hey GTX
Just one other little thing about your e-mail link on your site. You have the code like this:
<A HREF=mailto:GTXracer@hotmail.com">GTXracer@hotmial.com</A>
You know about the 'hotmail' but you need to add a quote before the 'mailto:' to make sure all browsers understand what you want them to do. Change the code to this:
<A HREF=<B><I>"</I></B>mailto:GTXracer@hotmail.com">GTXracer@hotmail.com</A>
Now some users won't get stumped by the link.
Thanks,
Tuna
JerryL
12-16-2001, 10:35 PM
IT IS ALIVE!!!!!!
My T-Maxx is on the prowl again! The MEGATECH M-16 has got to be the best, easiest starting engine on the Planet. Three pulls and weeeeeeee! And that is before breakin. Breakin went flawlessly for all four tanks. The low speed control compared to the TRX is incredible. I was never able to get my TRX to move the truck smoothly at real low speeds. After two tanks the M-16 was pulling the truck around at a crawl with no hurky jerky crap, and no stalling. It was cold out but I could hold my fingers on the head without them getting even warm for a full tank. The second tank had the same results heat wise and I had leaned it out just a little bit. The third tank got warmer as I leaned it out and by the time this tank was dry the head was too hot to hold my fingers there for more then 5 seconds. For the fourth tank I leaned it out again and the engine actually felt like it was getting to perfect operating temp.
It idles smooth, starts ten times easier then the TRX and seems pulls the truck around with ease.
Now I really must finish painting my Tundra body.
Later,
Jerry
Coconut
12-16-2001, 11:28 PM
The M16 is a good engine for the money. Just watch that plastic carb arm 'it breaks very easily. Might want to order one just to have. Some have changed for Traxxas arm but had to modify it. good luck
JerryL
12-16-2001, 11:41 PM
Good tip, I noticed that the arm was plastic but it never really registered. I of course flipped the carb and had to move the plastic arm a little so that the throttle servo could go to idle/close. It was when I was loosening the little nut that holds the arm tight when I noticed it wasn't metal. I wonder if they make a steel or aluminum replacement for it.
Later,
Jerry
MaxxThrasher
12-17-2001, 06:11 PM
Its soooo good to hear more replies on the M-16....keep em coming guys!
Is OS coming out with yet another .15 engine???
" I drank what?"
yep, the 15 CV-RX, I am geting that or the M16!!:D
draggerman11
12-17-2001, 06:40 PM
Maxx, it really isn't a new .15 . It is just the .15 CV-R , with a PullStart(Hence the "X" at the end).
SixVi6
12-17-2001, 07:06 PM
I've heard mixed reviews about the M16. It seems they are either great and run perfect or they fail during breakin. :eek: Also I've heard lots of complaints about the motor mount holes not being straight on the M16.. I had the same problem with the motor mount holes on my .21 Megatech engine too. so I guess its relativly common. at least that is an easy fix, Just strech the holes a bit with the dremel and its done. But if the megatech lives through breakin the they make a great low budget engine.
I'm just glad I now have the internet service back. darn @home crap! also the computers on my home network are now free from the virus it was wiping them out last week. so things are good again. I think now its time to put the dual disk brake setup on the T-maxx and paint its new body. they've been sitting for two weeks waiting for the computer issues to be resolved! sheesh..
draggerman11
12-17-2001, 07:14 PM
GTX, go in to the Wanted Forum, and ask. We want to keep this thread full of valuable information for the T-Maxx, right?
:)
Yeah, but I wanted to get one for the T, if anyone has one, email me,and I will edit my posts afterward, OK draggerman? ss4trunks@satx.rr.com.
draggerman11
12-17-2001, 07:24 PM
GTX, sounds good. Just do not make a habit of it, ok?:)
RC10GT-Maxx
12-17-2001, 09:49 PM
Does anybody know when the new os engine is coming out? The .15 cv-rx that is....should be a power house because the .15 cv-r is a power house....same engine but without a pull start. Also I'm about to get a maxx for christmas, what all should I do to it before I run it? I'm not all that new to nitro, i've got an rc10gt I run on a regular basis, and I can tune it right now....so what else should I know about the t-maxx....I hear of all this talk about flipping the carb, how many degrees flipping it? Completely? And also does anybody know if Ballistic Stupidity makes good parts or not? Thanks.
R/Cbum4life
12-17-2001, 10:33 PM
I don't see why it is so important to have to flip the carb I know it is hard to reach but once you get it set you shouldn't have to mess with it much right? If you have a long screwdriver you can get in there too! I have two questions 1. Whats with the dual disc break you were talking about? who makes it? how much? and how does it mount? do you then have 4 pads? If you could post some pic's once you get yours installed that would be cool. I'm in intrested in seeing that. 2.How much is the m-16 your all talking about?
thanks,
~Nicholas~~~~~~~~~~_/)
I think they are around $90.
SixVi6
12-17-2001, 11:58 PM
GTX.. Nope I don't have any extra small blocks that I can part with.
R/Cbum4life
The M16 is made by Megatech and is about $90-$100. Here is a link to Americas hobby center M16 (http://www.ahc1931.com/engine_Tmaxx.html)
The dual disk brake conversion is not a kit. It's all stock parts and a bit of dremel work. On stock chassis you have to grind away at some of it to get both disks to fit but on my SuperMaxx chassis and most aftermarket chassis the clearance is already there for this which makes it a relativly eazy deal. here is what It looks like. I just took this pic of my T-maxx.
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/sm_09.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/sm_10.jpg
You have to buy another disk brake and the brake parts bag. the dremel work comes from having to take the brass thing that presses against the caliper and grind it down until its almost even with the tranny case and assemble it and play with it because it has to be installed just right or else the disk can slip off the hex and jam stopping the truck really quickly. Hope this helps.
JerryL
12-18-2001, 03:13 AM
Well as the post subject stated, I have painted my Toyota Tundra body for my T/E-Maxx. I am still not done yet but this is the first time that I have ever painted a six color paint scheme. And it is the first time that I used liquid masking. Oh, and it is also my first time using an airbrush to paint a R/C body. Wow, that is a lot of firsts. Sure beats the old paint can method, at least for me. I just can't seem to keep having the paint run when I use a paint can versus using the airbrush. I still need to find some decals for letters that were too small to cut out of the liquid masking.
I will be taking the body into work so I can get some digital pictures. But if anybody has any ideas on where I can find some letters, 1/4" red ones and 1/2" Black ones, please let me know.
Later,
Jerry
R/Cbum4life
12-18-2001, 10:17 AM
SixVi6
That is pretty sweet! I might have to try that. Have you run it with that on yet? I can only imagine the braking power. I broke a tierod on the back end yesterday and was wondering if putting titanium on is the answer or is it better to leave these steel so you have some flex instead of breaking the bulkhead or the axle carrier (is that what that is called?) Let me know.
Peace
RC10GT-Maxx
12-18-2001, 04:58 PM
I'm going up to the hobby shop real soon...within half an hour...why you ask? To order in a t-maxx.
SixVi6
12-18-2001, 06:35 PM
R/Cbum4life .. Get the lunsford Ti ones they are a lot tougher and you should not have any problems breaking bulkheads or knuckles because of the turnbuckles being too strong. I have Lunsford Ti ones on my truck and have only broken one in a horrible crash. horrible meaning my .21 maxx with 22/64 gearing into a mailbox at top speed flipping and falling and flipping and crunching.. lol.. :eek:
The dual disk brake is almost too much. I have it adjusted like the single brake right now for maximum braking power and I can do forward flips just way too easily. :eek: I'm going to have to adjust the brake linkage a bit and just get used to the brakes.
SixVi6
12-18-2001, 10:02 PM
Ohh.. Ohh.. you guys got to check this out! A guy on MaxxTraxx just posted the first vids I've seen or heard of a 4 stroke t-maxx! soo cool.. I think I have a new project truck to build from the parts I have left from upgrading my t-maxx. a 4 stroke is not a lot faster than a small block but the sound and the sheer torque just looks like fun.. This may be the start of project 4 stroke for sure.
Four stroke t-maxx Vids! (http://www.gara.com/skypirates/TMaxx/Videos/four_stroke.htm)
R/Cbum4life
12-18-2001, 11:05 PM
The only ti I would get would be Lunsfurd don't worry. If I got with those I have to get different threaded ends right? I heard the stock ones can be drilled out but im not going to go through all that for those weak little things. Then I have also heard someone makes ballstuds and ballcups but then you wear out ball cups b/c those pop off all the time. I'm all confused on what to do but the guy at my LHS said get ti with the ball cups and ends but I dont want to be replacing those all the time. Last but not least I heard the Ti hinge pins can still be bent is this true? those look pretty strong to me. Help:confused:
R/Cbum4life
12-18-2001, 11:34 PM
Would you look at this: Tamiya thinks they are going to compete with traxxas and the big T. I think not. http://www.rccaraction.com/news/index.asp (http://)
SixVi6
12-18-2001, 11:43 PM
R/Cbum4life... Use the stock traxxas ball ends. It takes a bit of effort but the stock ones thread fine because they are made of a soft plastic. because they thread on so tight it also makes them good and strong. I actually broke a Ti turnbuckle in two and still reused the ends w/o any problems.
Check the bottom of this page for info on using the stock traxxas ends (http://www.lunsfordracing.com/superduty.htm) This is from the Lunsford racing site..
Ti hinge pins can get bent but only in hard crashes. Crashes that have damage like the last one I had... (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/damage_02.jpg) but for the most part they are much stronger than the stock ones and won't bend very easily.
R/Cbum4life
12-19-2001, 11:48 AM
Thanks for the help. Is that from the mailbox crash you broke the rpm piece even. That must take incredible skill. All of rpm's parts are guaranteed not to break right? So did you have to send that arm back in?
Got Speed
12-19-2001, 12:10 PM
That new tamiya monster truck looks almost excactly like the T-maxx.
SixVi6
12-19-2001, 06:46 PM
lol.. well the mailbox hit the t-maxx.. yeah.. it had this evil look in its eye and then jumped out in front! lol Well I guess its good reason to get better servos and radio gear. I have a decent steering servo but I'm still runnig the stock twitchy and slow throttle servo and a Kyosho Controller that I got with my first MiniZ. Its not the most responsive setup when going at warp speed in a heavy truck but it works.. all that stuff broke in the mailbox crash. I was going at full speed with my .21 t-maxx at high rpms using I think 22/65 gearing I don't remember exactly because I change gearing a lot and clipped the mailbox. I sent the arm back to RPM last week and will probably get the new one after the holidays. lol.. this is the second time I've broken an RPM arm and I've only broken RPM arms after I put the .21 on there. darn it.. the last time I had 22/54 gearing on a different chassis that was scary fast.
Ohh and every time I post I get this question.. "Where did you get a 54t spur from?"
my reply..
Click Here.. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXJJ11&P=7)
You will probably have to lengthen the motor mounst slots to get it to work and only try this gearing if you have a .21. or possibly a really high power smallblock and light weight with 1/8 scale buggy wheels and tires.
Ohh and I finally got to run the t-maxx in a bit of snow today. man it was a blast. too bad its only like an inch of snow. I'm hoping for snow over the weekend to really have some fun in.
SixVi6
12-19-2001, 07:23 PM
Darn it! I just put the paddles on the t-maxx for a bit more snow fun just to tear up the lawn and throw snow all over.. I got the truck started and idled it round the garage and drove out onto the driveway and it kept pulling to the left. I began to spin the wheels and the front wheels are hard to turn so I took the wheels off and the hexes and pins to take a peek at the bearings and noticed the sheild on the left outer bearing was really loose.. I poped it out and behold! ball bearings fell out all over the place.. lol.. Darn it! I guess its time for a rebuild with boca bearings.
R/Cbum4life
12-19-2001, 08:53 PM
At least you have snow. Michigan sucks always remember that!
SixVi6
12-19-2001, 09:08 PM
Yeah I'm in Chicago and we finally got just a little bit of snow today and I'm sure by tomorow it will be totally gone so I have to get out there and have some fun while I could.
JerryL
12-19-2001, 10:38 PM
Pic of my half finished Tundra T-Maxx Body.
JerryL
12-19-2001, 10:42 PM
Another pic
Again, please remember that it isn't finished yet. Only the painting has been done. I still need to put on the decals.
JerryL
12-19-2001, 10:44 PM
Last pic for now
OK, now that is next on my list!!!! I am definatley getting a Tundra body!!!!
JerryL
12-20-2001, 03:17 AM
Well I finished the detailing of the body for now. I will get some pics of the body tomorrow at work and try to get them posted here soon.
Glad you liked the body. I like it too, except the black strip that I painted on it makes the cab look out of proportion when it is on the Chassis. ***Note to self, don't paint a black trim strip on the lower edge of a very light colored body.***
Here is a list of the paints that I used.
FasRed - Flames
Faswhite - Flame, backing color
Fasblack - Trim, Pispots, letters on side
Fasfluorescent Yellow - Flames alone and mixed with red to make orange
Faspearl Silver - Main body color
Faschange Blue - Complementary color for base body color
The only thing that I am really not happy with is the skinny letters. I used a store bought stencile even though I had made my own. Big mistake as the purchased stenciles produced letters that were just way too skinny, especially compared to the stencile that I made.
More to come,
Jerry
R/Cbum4life
12-20-2001, 11:59 AM
Hey SixVi6 do you know what causes bearings to do that. I had the same problem with my stampede I ruined almost all of them. I was told it was b/c they are to small for the truck but there has to be something else to it.
RS4rally1124
12-20-2001, 01:46 PM
1 What is the biggest you can jump one of these?
I want one but i wonder if it is the right choice for jumping
2. is it allright to rnun the stock engine or should i upgrade right awand and to what?
3. Will the .16 or .18 be better for this truck? I wanted a .21 but after hearing how many problems people have i was wondering if the.18 would be a better decision.
RS4rally1124
12-20-2001, 02:09 PM
So can it jump?
is the .18 any good because noone likes the stock and the .21 is too big.
R/Cbum4life
12-20-2001, 03:26 PM
Hey now I need some help. The one way on my ezstart is all gummed up with crap I took it all apart and drilled the whole and all that. What do I use to clean the one way can I use WD-40 or do I need to stop being so cheap and get some nitro cleaner? let me know.
R/Cbum4life
12-20-2001, 04:31 PM
Can an ezstart be mounted on a m-16?
SixVi6
12-20-2001, 06:53 PM
whhoooww! Holy questions batman.. lol.
R/Cbum4life..
well the bearing problem I have right now I think is because of damage from a crash or jump. the wheel that had a bad bearing also had a bent axle. the inner ring of the bearing was cracked clean through. This allowed the sheild on the bearing and the little bearings inside to move around get dirt in there and eventually fail. I think I hit or crashed or landed bad on it hard enough to bend the axle and fracture the inner ring. Usually bearings fail from hard abrasives getting in there, like sand and rock dust and such. Good sealed bearings will stop it from happening but also good sealed ones will cost a good deal more than plain sheilded ones.
Yeah just use whatever you got. WD40.. Motor spray... it seemed to make no difference when I had my EZ start. but I don't know if the M16 can take the EZ start.
RS4rally1124..
The biggest you can jump one? a stock one the answer is as high as the TRX will take it.. just as long as you land it on rubber side down. A sick modded .21 Maxx.. The sky is the limit (http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/images/random/8.jpg) but again you have to land it right if you are going big air. Orange County T-maxx Clubs Video is the best I've seen of maxx truck big air.. (http://www.octmc.com/movies/octmc.wmv) 10.7megs its big but well worth it.
As far as engines. for a low buck deal case port the TRX. and smooth the sleve and pick up an Associated pipe and a big tube header. Lots of power there for a little cost. Also just about any .15of some kind is a good choice. high output .12's are OK but you will have to put a lower tooth clutch bell on to get back the low end power. If OS ever makes the .15CVR-X version that will be the one to buy because it will have the smooth and strong torque curve along with the high RPMS. A lower cost engine is the Megatech M16 but they are kinda hit or miss IMO. It seems they have some quality issues but when they are good they are really good. Lots of torque and power for little cost.
I'll probably get crap for it cause I always do whan I say this but .18's are not the way to go in a maxx. they are all ABN engines and with the extra displacement and weight of the maxx it will run really hot. the HPI .18 is not going to be made because of heat issues its so bad on the .18's. Also the 1.8hp claims are a joke.. I had one and after I put a good cooling head and carb it was decent but no where near 1.8+hp. I hope this helps..
John
JerryL
12-20-2001, 09:32 PM
My finished Tundra body:
JerryL
12-20-2001, 09:40 PM
Another pic
SixVi6
12-20-2001, 10:28 PM
I just love the pics on this page. (http://www.tmaxxunlimited4.homestead.com/rbc4.html)
I drool every time I see a c4 on a full SuperMaxx.. ahh.. I need to wipe the keyboard down.
R/Cbum4life
12-20-2001, 11:25 PM
Wow those are incredible. I want to see some pics of those in action. They are so pretty I dont think I would ever put a body on. I have a tip for you all I took the motor off my maxx and disconnected the throttle linkage. I put the spring back on the linkage on the wrong side and I took it out for a spin. I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't idle and then it struck me. Ah what a moron. When in doubt always put things back where they belong. (My mom says that alot too!)
SixVi6
12-20-2001, 11:57 PM
lol.. yeah everybody does stupid stuff once in a while. I remember once I rebuilt my truck and I assembled the rear section and realized when I tried to connect the driveshaft that I forgot to put the pinion into the diff case! duhh.. Yeah that was really stupid on my part.
I do have a vid of a couple SuperMaxxes with C4's running at Thunder at the beach III throwing up 5 foot rostertails of sand.. pretty crazy because thats almost 3hp in a Maxx. wheelies at any speed and restraint on the throttle trigger become the key to keeping the truck on all four from what I've heard.. drool.. I want a C4 but first I'm going to set up my truck with an exhaust like the ones that pic to see how it works and try out a bump start. If I can live with it I might just take a trip to my LHS and get a C4 in the spring.
R/Cbum4life
12-21-2001, 10:27 AM
Let see these vid's!
draggerman11
12-21-2001, 11:26 AM
T-Maxx is coming in 3 days!:D
I already have everything I need. 2 quarts of fuel(One quart Trinity 20%, one quart Traxxas 20%), battery, charger(One of my old time chargers), glow plug wrench, 500cc fuel bottle, after run oil, cleaner, Traxxas Tuned Pipe, MIP On Board Temperature Guage, and three extra glow plugs!:D
I have driven a few before, way too much fun! Owning, tuning, cleaning, and jumping will be that much more fun.
All have a happy T-Maxx, I mean Christmas day!
big2wons
12-21-2001, 02:38 PM
How do you get a t maxx to wheelie...
do you need a strong engine... i thought only 2 wheelers could wheelie, but my friend tells me he gets his maxx to do it..
SixVi6, let's see those VIDS!!! Email them to me, ss4trunks@satx.rr.com. About the wheelies, I think it is because there is more traction in the back, with the engine and gas tank, so I think that is it, and you would need a powerful motor, or get your stock one ported. I am going to port my TRX and put it in my RC10GT and put a 12 CV-RX in my T-Maxx.
SixVi6
12-21-2001, 06:10 PM
darn.. the original place the best C4 Supermaxx video was from is now gone. I'll see if I can throw it up on my webspace just for a few days. ITs not too long (.38 sec) but its pretty high quality so its a bit big.
Ohh.. Ohh it worked. The vid is of two full on SuperMaxx's with Everything you could get each powered by an RB C4 buggy engine.
EDIT * * *Sorry.. I have to take the vid off my Webspace.. I need my webspace for other stuff now..
R/Cbum4life
12-22-2001, 10:38 AM
awsome video!
Got Speed
12-23-2001, 07:16 PM
anyone have a link to rb concepts home page?
I just d/l the vid. I will watch it in a second here. Hey Got Speed, you got mail if you're the same guy who is trading me the 12 CV-RX. Yes, I will edit this once I see that he has read that part, don't worry! :p
SixVi6
12-23-2001, 09:03 PM
Got Speed.. Right here is the link to RB's site.
RB Concepts (http://www.rbproducts.com/rbww/index.htm)
OK guys, I need some help, really bad!
1). Is the spur on a T supposed to spin freely in both durections if you have a reverse lock-out? I haven't cracked open the tranny since I got it, and I don't know which conversion I have.
2). I don't know if I should sell my RC10GT and buy stuff for my T, cuz I always wanted a GT until the T came out, then I wanted it, now I got both!!! But my T needs some work and so does the GT. I have about $140 saved up right now, not including the money I get tonight for working, and I don't know if that will be enough to get it running. I got the GT in a trade from my friend for my PDA. Now there is nobody to run with!!! But, he is getting a job in January and going to buy a Nitro TC3. And my father will be starting school again, so he won't have time to help me as much, and that is doubled cuz I have two cars, and my little bro likes them but is too much of a gamer. So I am really confused here. I don't know what to do. I don't need much more for the T after this trade, and the GT won't need much more either, but I can't run them both, and I really love my T-Maxx, but like I said, it needs stuff still and I want to upgrade it. I only get about $40-$60 a week, so that is it, plus I have to tack out money for savings and what have you, so I get $80 out of every $100, so that is a very limited budget for two cars. What do you guys think I should do?
So do I sell the GT and hop the crap out of my T and put a little in savings, or do I just get my T running and then try to get my GT running?????:confused:
SixVi6
12-23-2001, 11:55 PM
Oops double post...
Here look at this instead..... (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/sm_11.jpg)
I got rid of all the yellow fuel lines and coupler that I had on there before (It was the only color my LHS had left when I needed to replace them before.) and finally got around to putting the 1/8 scale intake elbow on the truck to get rid of the copper elbow. Looks a lot better now. Now I just need to paint the new bod up
SixVi6
12-24-2001, 12:06 AM
I'm not sure on the reverse lockout. It depends on which lockout it has and if it eliminates the fwd and rev clutches all together or keeps the fwd one or what. I know on my SuperMaxx forward only the spur spins freelt in one direction and will not in the other.
as far as the GT/T-maxx thing I can't say for sure. It depends.. they are both really good and fun trucks. I've actually been thinking about picking up a GT again just to play with cause I miss the one I had. The t-maxx is a lot of fun and can travel over terrain that the GT can only dream of. Also you alreday had a Stadium truck mabey its time to move to something else for a while. To hop up a t-maxx can get expensive though. The 4WD layout and the overall size of the thing gets costly to but aftermarket parts. The aftermarket support for both trucks is great but the T-maxx does have larger aftermarket support. deffinetely because of the limited budget I'd only keep one or at least put one truck away until you have the resources to complete it or else you will never get either running. That is a tough choice.
Yes, this is actually my third stadium truck. I am sad to say that the GT will go up into storage for a while, :( but will be worth more in the future cuz it's old style tub chassis. :) ON TO the T-MAXX HOP-UPS!!!! HAHAHAHA!!!! OK, first up is a used Ballsitic Rx pack, $35, and I am probably going to buy some used Kahuna sidebars, 1 or two more bodies, a CPU for my new PC, and my parents are probably going to get me a set of blue chrome RPM Clawz stablemaxx rims!!!! WOOOHOOO!!! And that is not for X-Mas, that is just for watching my little bro and sis this weekend. Now I got $160 to blow on T-Maxx stuff!!!! WOWZERZ!!! Here comes the CV-RX in the mail, trading it for my Dynamite 12 SPD and new 15 CV hyper. This T is gonna be the baddest T-Maxx in San Antonio!!! oops, was I typing out loud, sorry! :p
R/Cbum4life
12-24-2001, 11:28 AM
Snow maxxing is one of the awsomest things I have ever done. I went out last night and we had about 3 to 4 inches of snow on the ground. Man was that awsome!!!!!!! Has anyone ever taken a drive shaft off and made the truck just front wheel or just rear wheel drive? Is this possibe or does the maxx have a middle differental? Im to lazy to tear it apart and find out. Thanks.
SixVi6
12-24-2001, 01:57 PM
R/Cbum4life.. Nope there is no diff in the tranny. its solid like a spool. you could take out the front center drive and to make it RWD and would handle horribly but you would be able to do doughnuts with ease which is fun for a little while. I tried it a while back. I got about an inch of snow here. I was hoping for a bit more but I'll take the inch. Probably get some pics of the truck too.
GTX... Cool you are stickin with the Maxx. And I see you are picking up stuff at maxxtraxx like mad. that buy, sell, trade board is just evil. I just try to stay off it. lol.. but now I'm trading my spare e-maxx tranny to Jasonagusta aka project twin. for a tamily F1 car. Now I'll have a good light fast car to whack my buddies unchallenged Bolink with.
Yeah, I saw that, i was surprised to see both you and Jason on there, I am checking it out right now. Oh, and that vid was tight!
Got Speed
12-24-2001, 09:45 PM
Thanx for the link.
GTX-I am the same guy thats trading you.
R/Cbum4life
12-26-2001, 11:14 AM
I was more along the lines thinking of just front wheel drive for the snow. Im curious to see how it runs! I hope you all had a good christmas.
I'm thinking of buying a 15CVR for my Maxx then making my own CVR-X out of it. Earlier this year I bought a 12CVR-X crank from someone who tried to run a 12CVR-X in his T-Maxx and found that it did not have enough torque. I have enough OS pullstarter parts laying around that I can have it built in ten minutes after arriving home with it. Yes, I've cross-referenced the cranks on the 12CVR and the 15CVR and they're the same.
Currently, I'm running a ported TRX-15 and it's not bad. With the Traxxas forward-only conversion, it won't wheelie, but it's pretty quick.
As for the spur gear spinning both ways freely with the forward-only conversion, mines doesn't.
I am going to run a 12 CV-RX, it's in the air now, and I am just going to gear it real low. When I get wnough money, I will convert it to a 15, then I will have a 15 pull-start and a 12 non-pull! Hehe.
SixVi6
12-27-2001, 06:28 PM
Yes... I got my bearings today! now I can have both my e-maxx and t-maxx running again without having to swap bearings from one truck to the other to run it.. lol Drool.. Boca Green Seal bearing kit. .. Ohh have to take the supermaxx C4 video off my webspace now. I need the space for a bunch of pics.
Cool.. I've heard of a few people that have converted their .15 CVR's to pull start doing the same thing but nobody with a t-maxx as of yet. Let us know how well it moves the t-maxx.
SixVi6
12-29-2001, 02:59 AM
whow! dang. I've been replacing the bearings in the t-maxx and so far have found two siezed bearings! one on the rear left knuckle and on on the pinion. totally siezed.. the rear of the truck is soooo smooth now. the tranny is now in pieces and the SuperMaxx forward only looks perfect still. no bad bearings in the tranny. I'm almost afraid to take the front apart because these bearings are so thrashed.
but on a good note. I'm getting a vintage Tamiya f1. I've always liked F1 cars and I'm trading an e-maxx tranny for it and even better I'm getting a bolink car too in another trade from a guy I work with! He has a RTR MP, a month old and never run Bolink, and just recently got a used and nicely hoped up t-maxx. lol... he's hooked on the maxx and giving up the bolink to me for a Ti HCR center skid, Astrocreep braces, and some wide offset wheel hexes. lol.. he bought the t-maxx after I whacked his MP with my .21 Maxx. He's even talking about selling the MP to build a SuperMaxx probably just to out do me. lol.. if he does sell it I might just buy it then put a new body on it painted with the words "truggy" on it because he hates when I call his MP a truggy. lol..
oh, so you and jasoninaugusta traded, cool. I wouldn't buy the MP. I would buy a SM suspension kit and a good engine, maybe a C4!!! LOL!!! Smoke em!
crazy1
12-30-2001, 11:16 PM
Has any one seen the new Robbinson Racing slipper for the T-Maxx. Will it's weight cause problems with getting up to speed fast? You know rotating mass and all that.
SixVi6
12-31-2001, 03:23 PM
It will slow the truck down a little but it shouldn't make a huge difference. I've was rinning a steel stock replacement spur gear which is heavier than the new RRP slipper setup and it did not make a huge difference.
I got my .12 CV-RX today!!! WOOHOOO!!!! It needes one part, but I will get that very soon!
draggerman11
12-31-2001, 04:04 PM
GTX, correct me if I am wrong, you are converting a .15 CV-R to a CV-RX, correct? If so, make sure you tell us how it runs, as I am very interested in buying one when O.S. releases it.
Yes, I am, I just got the 12 CV-RX so now all I need is the 15 CV-R, and I wanna find one used somewhere, maybe ebay, I will start saving up. It should only take me about 2 weeks to get the money, after I get my T-Maxx running, which won't be long now!!!
OK, I have everything on my T now and all I need is two more parts!!!! An OS universal nipple #12, and GAS!! Tonight I put what I had left, a few drops, into the carb, and pulled the pull starter and yeeeaaaaeeeeahhhhhnnnnttttttttt, and if fired off, then I quickly turned it off. CAN'T WAIT!!!!
SixVi6
01-04-2002, 07:59 PM
Cool Man... I've ben hard at work on my t-maxx too.. I finally finished replacing all the bearings wiht the bocas and replaced a rear buklhead. ohh and I broke an AL shock cap! how I don't know. one of the shocks was leaking and I could not find where it coming from. then I took the shock off and compressed it upsidedown and found it ther was a crack in the cap.. weird. also I painted the body that I've had laying around for months. all I have to do it reset the servo horns and trim and it will be good to go!
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/sm_14.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/sm_13.jpg
lol.. ok and now that thats done and I've got nothing else RC to take care of its time to clean the room.
Looks good, I just got my Kahuna racing bars, RRP blue stablemaxx clawz, and my Ballistic Rx pack. Now I am waiting for my new Hummer Urban body, Rix lower braces, Rix shock towers, center skid, and my CS-80 to come in the mail. Here is what I plan to get next:
Front aluminum skid
JT racing chassis, RRP arms, plowboys, or a 15 CV-RX
Airbrush
some good bulks
aluminum body posts
I will get some pics up, it looks really sweet now with the stablemaxxes on, all shiney and gorgeous!
chief lorenzo
01-05-2002, 04:45 PM
I can't get my t-maxx to start. The blue wire from the ez-start doesnt go anywhere, it looks like it should go to the glowplug but when i push it on there, it wont stay. also, the starter motor wasnt starting the engine, but the battery ran out. I really want to get it running tomorrow so i can break-in the engine and then drive it, but i dont know how else to do it?
ive followed the instructions, but they dont say anything about the glowplugs
Someone help so I can drive it tomorrow?? thanks people
The blue wire DOES go on the glow plug, it ignites it so the fuel can burn. Make sure your battery is charged and is it new?
chief lorenzo
01-05-2002, 05:42 PM
i gathered that's what it does, but i was just worried that it doesnt stay on the end of the glowplug. someone said to crimp it, so ill try that. The battery isnt very new, ive had it a few months, but it's only been used about 4 times, in an electric car, i guess it just wasnt fully charged. It was turning the engine over fine to start with, but then slowed down so i guess that's what it must be. Anyway thanks, and ill try again tomorrow, hopefully with more luck. I got it on thursday, but have been at work so today was my first opportunity to do anything. imagine the pain when i couldnt get out and drive it!!!! hehe
Thanks for your help
Your welcome, and that blue wire doesn't have to stay on the glow plug all the time, it can come off, the engine will still run.
Coconut
01-05-2002, 09:22 PM
The connector that goes on the plug has a slot. take needle nose and gently close it so its a tighter fit. You have to do this evry once in a while.
OK, SixVi6, I need some advice man, some REAL advice, and everyone else would be nice too( I will post this on Maxxtraxx too). I think I have sold my GT, and my T-maxx is almost running with the 12 CV-RX, but I don't know what I should spend the money on! Here is what I want:
Package #1-
RPM Arms
JT lightweight racing chassis
Front aluminum skid
Airbrush
Package#2
new radio like XR3
front aluminum skid or airbrush
What do you think, package#1 or package#2? I already have the 12 CV-RX, and I haven't even run that yet, so I think I will stick with it for a little while, this is actually hard!!!!
draggerman11
01-06-2002, 12:55 AM
Package one. The XR3 really is not needed, and in my oppinion, should be the last thing to go on the truck.
Hmm, I think that is a good choice, what do the rest of you think?
SixVi6
01-07-2002, 01:15 AM
Package 1 looks better to me. The stock radio gear is good for most everybody. Do you have better shocks on the t-maxx? that would be something else to add to that list. The stockers have this problem wiht the shock caps poping off whe you jump it.
Well, I WAS going to sell my RC10GT, but the economy sucks right now, so I will just keep it and earn the money, unless someone wants to offer me a killer deal on an XR3 or something. I got all my parts I needed for my T-Maxx last night at around 8, it was dark, picked up a new gallon of fuel, and started her up, and I ran her for about 5 minutes, warming her up a little, then I started to tune her and I thought I had gotten her tuned correctly, so I started to drive her around. I didn't get that far away from me because I accidentally left my transmitter on all day so the batteries were real low, but my Ballistic Rx pack was still strong when I finished! Oh, and the stock T-Maxx servo is actually real weak or something, doesn't turn the wheels good or I have a lot of play in my steering linkage, I will check that today. When I was driving it around with the 12 CV-RX, it sure would get in a hurry! I gave it full throttle when coming my direction in first gear, about 20 feet away and it was going pretty fast actually, and I didn't let it hit second gear, I didn't want it going that fast with my transmitter that low. So, after about an hour of driving, or one tank(can you beleive that!) the engine started to act up and get out of tune, and I couldn't figure out why, so I started to try to tune it more, but it just wouldn't quit idleing up! So I went inside to have my old man help me out a little and he got to looking at it, and he looks at the carb and sees that the big shaft, the whole shaft, was coming out! I don't know why, but I am in contact with the guy I got the engine from, he hadn't used that carb on the engine at all, so now I need a whole new carb is what it looks like! The guy, Got Speed, is helping me out, so if anyone ever deals with him, you can rest assured he will take care of you. I will take some pics of what happended and the carb, and some new pics of my T-Maxx. I still have to put my Kahuna racing bars and Rix Gear shock towers on, and I am waiting for my CS-80 servo, full center skid, and my Rix Gear lower braces to be shipped. My T-Maxx looks badass as it is, it just could use a new body, but I am sending out for a new Hummer Urban today, so that will take care of that. BTW, nice looking body SixVi6, I saw it on Maxxtraxx also. Lookin good. Everyone should post some pics of their maxx, broken or working.
OK, this is good, GUESS WHAT!!! My diff gears gave out yesterday!!!!! Man, that guy really trashed my T. it stripped the diff gears because of the crappy reverse lockout that is in it right now, so I am going to install new RRP diff gears and a Rix Gear reverse lockout. I don't know what happened, but I will get some pics of them sometime. I am also going to sell the CV-RX, too little torque for what I want to do, I thought it would be enough, but we will see. I need to not run it until I get that OS carb replaced! Here are some pics of my T:
I will post more in a few.
SixVi6
01-09-2002, 10:32 PM
The stock diff gears suck. they have no precision at all and the mesh rarely lines up. I got lucky, on the front of my t-maxx the stockers have a perfect mesh.. the stock rear one was another story though... The RRP ones are the way to go. I've yet to break the RRP set in the rear of my maxx. but I'm sure because of the .21, the plastic diff cup will be the next to go.
How many teeth are on the clutch bell. if its a stock 20t bell try an 18t instead. it help out a lot on the .12 cvrx but it will never have the torque of a .15.
My latest pic.. The new pan car and body in between the E-maxx and T-maxx.
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/bods_01.jpg
Hehe, nice pics, I am getting my pan car sometime this week or next week. Here is more pics-
Yeah, I fixxed my OS carb!!!! Yes! Now that lame Kyosho carb won't run my maxx so lean like it did!!!! I also tore down my T, it was way too dirty man, gotta clean that sucker up! I tore the diffs down, the rear is perfect! How about that! As for the front, well, you know, the 7 or 8 teeth missing. I am going to buy a used Rix lockout, and an RRP diff gear set, NIP, from Kippster on maxxtraxx. I told him I wanted both, but I will tell him that I looked at my back and they look like they have perfect mesh. I don't know how the fronts got like that! He must have bashed this thing hard! Well, I can tell you this, as soon as I get it tuned right, I am going to take it down to the pan car track, Chevron treads and all, put on my new hummer body, and waste some pan cars! This thing won't flip!!! I have some stablemaxxes on it, so it's wider now, so wider is better! I am running the stock 20 tooth, I think I will switch over. I have a smaller one, I think it's an 18, but I don't have the bearings! Does anyone have the bearings? I would buy them or trade for them. More pics-
Oh, and SixVi6, JasonInAgusta has been trying to contact you. Oh, and everyone, I am going to convert to Fantom motors, a 15 in my maxx, with 42K RPM with 1.25 HP and the 12 has I think around the same characteristics. Sorry, OS doesn't have the RPM or the HP I want! :p
MaxxThrasher
01-10-2002, 09:48 AM
Nice pics GTX, nice maxx. What brand shock tower is that, looks racey!
" I drank what?"
MaxxThrasher
01-10-2002, 10:02 AM
I know a few manufacturers are making these Aluminum transmissions but are they all Forward Only?
I know that RRP's trans. is but Elite,Hardcore and i think one other MFG. makes them and was wondering if anyone knows it these are Forward Only also???
" I drank what?"
Those are Rix Gear towers, they are really cool, I like them a lot. They are two peice and are very light too. I think they are $40 a set, I bought mine used, like I do most of my stuff, LOL!!!!
Those aluminum trannies are all forward only, I think. There was one in the newest edition of RCCA, empty at that, but it was a lot cheaper than the RRP one.
MaxxThrasher
01-10-2002, 06:05 PM
Hey thanx GTX on the shock towers, got a link?
I think thats the Elite Trans case ur talkin about. In the mag. its like $149.00. I think Stormer or someone online has them for $99.00 and yeah, there all just cases, not complete trannies.
I think there killer, i want one for my Maxx but i dont want Forward Only, are they convertable?
" I drank what?"
SixVi6
01-10-2002, 06:27 PM
actually the only alum tranny case that I know that is and was made only for a forward only and includes a forward only setup is the RRP one. thats why its so expensive.
All the rest of the tranny cases are just that.. tranny cases and are stock replacements. they should accept just about any forward only conversion without and problems except for the Unlimited Engineering 10mm forward only conversion the Unlimited 8mm conversion I've been told will work fine.
Ultimate hobbies has Al tranny cases for $100. these are the same ones that Hardcore sells for a lot more $$$. GPM makes one too that I'm assuming will also get sold under dynamite and megatech as well.
ultimate hobbies (http://www.ultimatehobbies.com/)
Rix Gear (http://www.rixgear.com)
I think it's www.rixgear.com, not sure, I can check if you want it that bad. I think all those tranny cases are forward only.
MaxxThrasher
01-10-2002, 06:39 PM
Thanx guys, your great! :D
" I drank what?"
Yeah, anytime. I noticed your in Houston. I am in San Antonio. Are there any good off-road tracks there?
MaxxThrasher
01-10-2002, 07:28 PM
Oh yeah, there are a lot of good tracks here,indoor and out. And for awsome T-Maxx action, we have lots of Moto cross tracks to play on too!
" I drank what?"
Cool, I wonder if there are any in Austin? I only know of two, and they are both outdoor onroad, and I am getting a pan car, so that will be cool. There is a BMX track down the road, so I will try there if they will let me, and the first time I hit a BMX'er, they will probably kick me out, they would never catch my T, I would just jupm out into the parking lot! :D
MaxxThrasher
01-10-2002, 07:41 PM
LMAO!!! Hey i used to race BMX back in the day. I thought we used to do some crazy stuff back then, but the crazy stuff they do today, there might be a BMXer that will jump out and follow that little maxx....hehe. I'm sure if the track isn't all chained up, you can play on it when theres not many or any people there. Thats what we do here, we never mess around when they are running their bikes. The few people that are there usually love to park it and just watch the maxx get some air. They love it! :( But then they always wanna try it...you know...hey let me drive your truck...:rolleyes:
Yeah, I know, the only person I let drive my RC's is my dad, and sometimes my little bro. I will carry some contracts with me, make them sign it(if that doesn't discourage them) and then they can drive the truck, hehe, they do whatever they want to it, but my contract will say that they buy whatever they break. I think I will have my T all fixed and up and running again in a about 2 weeks, that is when I can get those diff gears, so I don't need to save for them now. I have to save some moolah for my date at the Military Ball in two weeks, I am in JROTC. It's OK, I get tired of high ranking officers who think they can boss us little guys around, that all changed as soon as me and my friends came into the corps, hehe, they don't really mess with me, probably because of my size and build, and that of my friends, we are all built pretty big, about 6 ft and still growing, 150 lbs, and 140 of that is muscle, so we really don't get any problems from other guys, just chicks, really bugs me! My boss is a real female dog, to tell you the truth! Hope she isn't on this board! :p
MaxxThrasher
01-11-2002, 11:43 AM
Is your boss into RC?? LOL not good to dog ur boss when she might be watching! hehe
Got Speed
01-11-2002, 06:46 PM
When I get an engine for my maxx I am going to go to a BMX park and have some fun. Good time to get rid of those pothetic(sp) stock plastic arms and towers.
Hehe, I have those Rix towers, they are really cool and light, excellent quality. I just got my CS-80, full center skid, and Rix lower braces. Cool!
Got Speed
01-12-2002, 12:49 AM
My track just got finished building their new offroad track. Whew, it is a small figure 8 with a big jump right before a sharp turn :eek: , and a big distance to jump over the middle :eek: . I will try to get pics up. It opens tommow. I can't wait to see it. I have to wait awhile though to run my T-maxx because I need an engine.:(