View Full Version : Traxxas T-Maxx Forum v1.0
Well here is the exact link. Thanks to maxxthrasher on page 35. http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/description.asp?prod=DYN7636&pc=DYN7636S. If you have a new one, then the linkage should be alright as it is, I think. Other than that, it should be fine. Go rip!
dexters
07-23-2002, 09:32 PM
Thanks GTX...your the man!!! woooooohooooo
SixVi6
07-23-2002, 10:00 PM
Good god this thread is flying.
YGM GTX!
I'll ship this stuff tomorow if ya give me an address now. ohh forgot to mention the stock springs I have are a kind of maroon color. they were dyed by whomever I got them from in a trade.
:cool:
I too agree the maxxes are great fun. lots of wicked hop ups and unlimited choices of how you want to customize it. Although mine is slowly becoming a complete SuperMaxx. all I really have left is to pick out a suspension and get some Alum bulks but I won't go all aluminum.. I quite like the stock bulks and RPM arm setup I have now. Light weight and flexible enough to soak up crashes and the stock bulks will give in a horrible crash before anything else that is much more expensive gets thrashed.
R6905
07-23-2002, 10:13 PM
you guys are all at page 41 on this thread? im at 26 now.... something f'ed up this thing.... now it says that some people arent acctaul users...
Brandon
Maroon color is fine with me, LOL.
I will shoot you my addy in a second. Oh, there it went!
SixVi6
07-23-2002, 10:26 PM
R6905.. well there are settings on the board for how many posts are on one page.. yours is probabyl set different than everyone elses. but the not being actual users.. hmmm. thats a strange one. :confused:
GTX
hehe.. ok its all good. I'm sure you'll know when I get the 1/8 diffs.. expect pics here. then after I give the diffs a good once over and gather up the parts I'll let ya have them for the price I quoted.
R6905
07-23-2002, 10:33 PM
oh yeah... haha... my settings are 40 per page... lol
R6905
07-23-2002, 10:34 PM
go out into the "nitro monster trucks" part of the forum.. and click on this thread... where it says how many posts there are... there should be a link... now click on the top poster... i think its pat? click on him or her and it will say something like "not an activated account.." try it and tell me what happens
Brandon
All I see is that hot Asian chick in the corner.
Oh, down lower, my bad.
Those are users that had somehow not registered but were visiting. I guess an old feature or something.
R6905
07-23-2002, 10:39 PM
oh thats really weird.... haha
oh yeah... that asian chick is not bad...:D
Brandon
BrandonM7
07-24-2002, 11:19 AM
Anybody got any good, creative, and preferably cheap way of limiting down-travel?
Now that I have the Al bulks and arms, I seem to be popping the tops off my shocks like crazy, so I'm thinking they may be a little too short (actually my buddy suggested it - I didn't even think about that.) I was thinking that since I have fully Al suspension and factory shocks, the weight of the arms, plus the lack of flex of anything wasn't helping absord the shock, and was just hitting the shocks with a lot more load. Not sure which it is, but if I could limit the downtravel a bit, I could eliminate one of the variables and see how it does.
I'm sure I could rig it up with zip-ties to the shock tower (kinda like a ghetto limiting strap,) but has anyone come up with anything prettier, or more durable?
Thanks in advance.
MaxxThrasher
07-24-2002, 11:32 AM
:confused:
Why don't you just upgrade the shocks?
BrandonM7
07-24-2002, 11:36 AM
Because I've spent about a grand on this thing in the past two months, and my wife is about rip my nizzos off :D
Upgrade is certainly the future plan, I'm just trying to find a way to keep playing with it until I can clear another $100 purchase...
MaxxThrasher
07-24-2002, 12:35 PM
LOL, well I can certainly understand that! How about just draining about a 1/4 of an inch of oil out of them and adjusting them with clips?
R6905
07-24-2002, 12:35 PM
in the radio control 2002 monster truck issue (the one with the dominator on the front) they show you how to detail your truck... and one way was to make these limiting straps.... and they show you how using elastic.... its cheap and great looking. you might want to get the magazine... it sells for 5.99$
Brandon
BrandonM7
07-24-2002, 02:03 PM
Originally posted by R6905
in the radio control 2002 monster truck issue (the one with the dominator on the front) they show you how to detail your truck... and one way was to make these limiting straps.... and they show you how using elastic.... its cheap and great looking. you might want to get the magazine... it sells for 5.99$
Brandon
No kidding? I've actually got that magazine, just never noticed that in it -- thanks man!
R6905
07-24-2002, 02:45 PM
your welcome... i dont have a rc vehicle so all i do all day is read my rc magazines from cover to cover and over again and again... i think ive read this months magazines from cover to cover at least six times lol
Brandon
racer t-maxx 20
07-24-2002, 03:20 PM
Can some one post me a message at the thread hop up truck. so i can see if it work.
R6905
07-24-2002, 04:19 PM
um...i posted a message.... and i dont think there is anyway that it cant work....
Brandon
R6905
07-24-2002, 04:27 PM
does anyone know how to extend the length of your t-maxx? such as this one:? i think thats the sweetest looking t-maxx ever... lol.... i like how realistic the exaust pipe is....
Brandon
MaxxThrasher
07-24-2002, 04:29 PM
.21 conversion kit chassis.
BrandonM7
07-24-2002, 04:30 PM
Most of the .21 conversion kits do that. That looks kinda like the JTRacing kit (http://www.jtracingproducts.com/), but it's hard to tell just from a side shot.
R6905
07-24-2002, 04:31 PM
oh... like the one from xtm? or something else? i dont like the look of the xtm conversion kits... i dont like the color... i like that guys grey one.. and its pretty sweet looking
Brandon
BrandonM7
07-24-2002, 04:36 PM
The XTM is a dang good value, though - comes with a lot more than most, and costs less than most. You can remove anodized colors if you prefer natural finishes, just have to soak it in something (can't remember what...)
R6905
07-24-2002, 04:37 PM
oh ok thanks... probably just paint thinner....
Brandon
R6905
07-25-2002, 12:55 PM
Hey! go to my thread in the general forums section and vote...
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=90346
Brandon
french-fry
07-26-2002, 02:40 PM
Hey, I got myself a tmaxx about a week ago and have been having a blast, I was wondering what a good less than $50 hop-up would be? My truck is still totally stock and I just want to spend a little money on it.
nitrorush89
07-26-2002, 03:13 PM
hey french-fry why dont you get aluminum skid plats
MaxxThrasher
07-26-2002, 03:16 PM
Big Tube Header, runs about $25.00
http://www.hobbyshopnj.com/header.html
If you jump it, then I would suggest the Titanium turnbuckles for the rear. Traxxas Ti turnbuckles run about $16.00
Got Speed
07-26-2002, 03:31 PM
R6905- You use oven cleaner to get anodizing off. Like unscented EZ Off.
I like the XTM kit alot too. Im trying to sell my conversion to get it since it has CVDs and I like the red color. MIP CVDs would cost you nearly as much as the whole XTM conversion!
LouisB
07-26-2002, 03:33 PM
Which .12 or .15 racing engines perform well in the T-Maxx? I was thinking about the Fantom .12 or .15 and the RB concepts .12 how do these engines run in the T? I know they are great in racing trucks.
I'm looking at a new engine because my HB .18 is nearly dead after 3 weeks:(
MaxxThrasher
07-26-2002, 03:36 PM
Hey, whats the deal with these MIP CVDs? Why are they worth so much money and why does everyone seem to like them so much?
I bought the Dynamite CVDs for my Maxx and they work great. They were a lot cheaper, they come with a dust boot and they seem to hold up just fine to my abuse.
"JMO"
nitrorush89
07-26-2002, 03:52 PM
hey is the picco engine popluar on the t-maxx because i got one in my t-maxx and it works like crap
nitrorush89
07-26-2002, 04:00 PM
hello
BrandonM7
07-26-2002, 04:59 PM
The Picco is pretty popular, but not too much, mainly due to price. Most folks seem to dig the OS engines, because they're really a good balance between reliable, powerful, and a good price. Seems to be the popular consensus, at least.
I just run my stock TRX with a MIP stinger pipe/header. Only reason I use it is because the factory pipe melted, and I liked the fact that the MIP increased bottom end, and blows out the back so it keeps the truck clean.
It did make a big speed increase, but to tell the truth it was fast enough for me to break junk bone stock, so this just made me more dangerous :D
The T-Maxx is already a money-pit as it is (not meaning it's crappy, just meaning there are endless amounts of upgrades, and once you start buying them, you can't stop :D ,) and adding more power just makes you need that much more stuff, since most folks promptly start breaking drivetrain components when they hit the gas on their stout-ass CV-RX. As such, I'm kinda avoiding that route -- just making it tough enough to handle my bashing, and leaving it the same power.
If I want something faster later, I'll get a 1/8 scale buggy -- those things hawl ass!
SixVi6
07-26-2002, 10:28 PM
lol.. well my t-maxx is slowly becoming a 1/8 buggy. I've already got the SuperMaxx MP7.5 1/8 scale diff conversion on order and am now running a 1/8 MP7.5 flywheel, clutch, and clutchbell on my maxx. hopfully by monday I'll have an XTM 24.7 and within the next week of so the diffs will come in. by then I will have spent just as much as I would have spent to get a good 1/8 buggy. :rolleyes: oh well.. I still love the t-maxx. Its just that persuit of power that I got hooked on.
LouisB
07-27-2002, 12:16 PM
Would a RB concepts .12 engine perform better than OS CVRXs (.12 and .15)?
OS seems to be a popular choice but I can get the RB engines cheaper and from what I have seen they have very good power
Got Speed
07-27-2002, 01:45 PM
I would take an RB over an O.S. anyday but they are very picky with tuning.
SixVi6
07-27-2002, 01:48 PM
yes from what I hear the RB engines fly but all that I've heard are those that run TC's and such. For a t-maxx the pull start RB .12's are not as powerfull as the TC's non-pull start engines I've seen but I'm sure a pull start RB .12 will still move if you set it up right. The RB .12's are high reving engines so gear it down with a 16t-18t clutchbell on a lightweight t-maxx and it will fly. I was running an OS CVR-X on my lightweight smallblock t-maxx for a while with an 18t clutchbell and it moved. lots of upper and top end but it did lack the low end grunt of a .15.
There is a whole list of the RB .12 engines here at the RB website (http://www.rbproducts.com/rbww/engines2.11/index.html)
LouisB
07-27-2002, 03:18 PM
Thanks SixVi6, I was going to put a 18 tooth clutch bell on it anyway and I've already had a look at the RB site. I have seen a RB (the same version as I would put in my Maxx) in a FT RC10GT, it has heaps of low end (more than any other at the track)
I've seen this RB at absolute full throttle and it screams, it was at full throttle when his RX battery fell out and it went straight into a bush, it took ages to find someone brave enough to shove their hand into the bush to pull out the screaming car :D His engine starts easily and idles well (unlike my HB .18:rolleyes: )
I had a look at one in my LHS, it was the rotary carb, pull-start, standard shaft model (exactly what i need for my Maxx) I had a pull of the starter with no plug in it and it had awesome compression:D
I am going to run my Rossi C12 in my T when I get the rest of it. RB Maxx over at Maxxtraxx said it has more torque than any other .12 and it lifted the wheels of his Maxx, even with aluminum arms. I think he said that was with stock gearing. I am going to start with an 18 tooth clutch bell, that should be fine. I will let you guys know how that goes. I will put a CV-RX .15 in it after I get the money for it.
NItro-Smoke
07-28-2002, 04:01 PM
I want to get me a hitec digital servo! I have the 645 now but want a better one! Should I go with the 5925(128oz/.8speed) or the 5945(180oz/.13 speed) I know they both will serve my purpose but has anybody personally used either of these servos and how do you like them? Thanks
Scrad
07-28-2002, 07:19 PM
Anyone have pic's of how they have their slide carbs hooked up? I just got a Hyper for $70 bucks from a friend and wanted to see how you guys have them hooked up. Thanks...
speedydave
07-28-2002, 07:59 PM
Nitro Smoke, the 925MG is .08, not .8....I have 2 5925MG's in my Mugen XR Works, and I love them, but I think for the T-Maxx, the best bet would be the 945MG.
As for the slide carb conversion, you better buy a kit.
nitrorush89
07-29-2002, 06:29 PM
whats faster the t-maxx or the nitrorush:cool:
SixVi6
07-29-2002, 06:52 PM
yeah for a slide carb you will need a conversion kit.
JT racing has from what little I've heard a good slide carb kit.
check it here at renegade rc (http://www.renegaderc.com/Products/JT_Racing_Products.htm)
and now I have to post this vid of the Unlimited Engineerin's "Rody". Its his new racing truck that is actually a cross between a t-maxx and an 1/8 buggy. its NOT a t-maxx converion but there are hints that there may be something in the works. It will most likley though only be a new Kit being sold as a new truck. Anyways there is a wicked video of it riping around a track during R&D testing. its one impresive truck and it flies!!
More info form Unlimited Engineering on the "Rody" as it is called in its R&D pahse. (http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/RacerX.shtml)
Here is the Vid, its still in testing by Unlimited Engineeing. (http://pub13.ezboard.com/fmaxximumtraxxasfrm35.showMessage?topicID=5920.top ic)
Sorry there are no body off pics of the rody.
Got Speed
07-29-2002, 07:16 PM
The nitro rush and T-Maxx are pretty close in speed. I would really stay away from the nitro rush. There is quite a few problems with it and it's not a real good truck anyway.
I would deffinatly go with a T-Maxx over a rush. If you decide you don't want a Monster Truck but a stadium truck instead look around the GT and Losi forums
If you go with a stadium truck go for the GT. Otherwise, get a T-Maxx.
Got Speed
07-29-2002, 07:46 PM
Originally posted by Scrad
Anyone have pic's of how they have their slide carbs hooked up? I just got a Hyper for $70 bucks from a friend and wanted to see how you guys have them hooked up. Thanks...
I mounted the servo next to the fuel tank and bent the brake rod to go over the servo arm and to clear the tranny.
SixVi6
07-29-2002, 10:56 PM
hmm. interesting. I got my XTM 24.7 today and of course I had to pull it apart and compare it ot he Megatech .21 that I was running. they are very similiar engines and I have the pics. ya can also look at the nice crank porting I did on the megatech .21 crank. I used the Megatech .21 head and the megatech .21 carb on my XTM also so.. except for the XTM on the case.. its a sleeper. anyways as you will see from the pics.. the XTM's bore is just massive compared to a stock .21 and the sleve and crank are nicely ported. anyways.. here are the pics..
the XTM sleeper style on my t-maxx (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/247_01.jpg)
The sleve form the XTM and the sleve form the megatech .21 (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/247_02.jpg)
side by side apart, XTM and Megatech .21 (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/247_03.jpg)
side by side apart, XTM and Megatech .21 part II (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/247_04.jpg)
Carbs part I (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/247_05.jpg)
Carbs part II (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/247_06.jpg)
The Case's side by side.. (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/247_07.jpg)
all I need to break in the 24.7 is the steel spur gear for my slipper. the LHS had the stock plastic junk one in stock so I picked it up and quickly striped it because it too sensitive to heat and softened up. hopfully tomorow the steel one will be here and I'll be able to break in the 24.7.
TitansGT4
07-30-2002, 01:47 PM
What's the easiest way to make a fast, good handling, boulder bashing Tmaxx w/o upgrading to a .21? I have a Maxx suspension kit from pro-line, and it handles much better, but I want it to handle even better. In the article in RC Monster Trucks they took off 1 shock form each wheel, is this a good idea?
BrandonM7
07-30-2002, 02:24 PM
Well, it's gotten pretty dad-blame hot down here in GA, and having the MIP pipe running right next to it doesn't help -- it's gotten so hot that I really can't play with it for more than half a tank - if I richen it up enough to keep cool, it bogs and chokes and loads up, generally running like crap - if I keep it lean enough to run well, it's too hot for comfort after half a tank so I have to shut it down for a while. Having an all aluminum (heavy as crap) Maxx doesn't help, either.
So I'm hoping I can slap on a big 'ol head to help out a bit -- I do have to worry about it clearing the MIP rear exit pipe, but I'm not too opposed to bending the header a wee bit if I have to.
Suggestions? Thanks in advance.
nmtr13
07-30-2002, 07:46 PM
Im gonna have about 500-600 bucks(mabey more) when my bday come and i dont know if I should get a t-maxx or a mad force. I like the mad force because it has .21 and a 3-speed. But the t-maxx is very popular and parts are everywhere..
Which is better for climbing and for snow?
:confused:
HELP
What will you be doing more-
Jumping
high speed stuff
rock crawling
bashing
racing
muddin
all out stuff
Just name what you will be doing with the truck you get. Then we will tell you which one is good for you.
nmtr13
07-30-2002, 08:07 PM
jumping and bashing mostly..
nmtr13
07-30-2002, 08:08 PM
and sum high speed stuff
hmmmm..... anything else?
And does your local hobby shop stock parts?
TitansGT4
07-30-2002, 08:24 PM
I drive in grass and stuff lik that, and i do a lil bit of street racing
Titans- You should try to get an OS 15 CV-RX or a Fantom 15 and try to keep it as light as possible.
NMT- If you want to drive in grass, mud, climb, jump, and speed, get a modded T-Maxx and have us look at it or get a Mad Force. I would get the Mad Force if your LHS has parts for it.
nmtr13
07-30-2002, 08:49 PM
Ya my lhs has parts for the t-maxx but im not sure if they have parts for the mf. IM sure my other lhs has parts(bruckner).
Then I would go with the Mad Force if Bruckner stocks parts. The T-Maxx is for jumping, low cut grass, rocks, and other stuff. The Mad Force is for speed, .21 power, wheelies, mud, rocks, and other stuff. But, if you really like the T I am sure you would like it.
Got Speed
07-31-2002, 01:17 AM
I think you should get a Maxx. If you like the .21 so much upgrade to .21. I don't personnaly like the mad force because it is chain driven, kyosho, solid axel, two link suspension, completly external 3 speed, and there isn't very good parts support for either stock parts or upgrades.
Yes, but you can always slap in a 15 CV-RX or a Fantom 15 into a Maxx and have a great truck. I would get the T if I was in your position because I like all the parts available for it.
LouisB
07-31-2002, 01:20 PM
I've got a RB concept .12 in my maxx now:D :D :D
I haven't geared down yet (an 18t bell is on the way) but it has awesome acceleration and incredible top speed.
Fuel consumption is also much lower, my HB .18 did about 10 mins to a tank (not good for 15 min races) and the RB running rich (5 1/2 turns out) does about 20 mins to a tank:)
RB engines are SWEEEET:cool:
ultimaxxracer
07-31-2002, 01:49 PM
How can i make my t-maxx handle better. I've heard of just taking off the preload spacers but then the truck sits too low and the suspension is to softand i'm also wondering if anyone knows a way to get more run time out of a ported engine cause i only get about 5 mins in mine
Got Speed
07-31-2002, 02:03 PM
Get some RC Raven Dual Rate Springs. Then lower it some. You may want to change the oil too. Depending on what your running on and what you have in it now. New tires and offset wheels depending on where and how you running it.
Bigblock
07-31-2002, 10:59 PM
Need help. What is making my T-Max fuel foam when truck is
running? It foams so much the truck shuts off. What can I do
to solve this problem? Truck has the stock T-Max gas tank with
no primer, and an Ofna .21 engine.
SixVi6
07-31-2002, 11:12 PM
hmm... fuel foaming is a pretty uncomon problem. you can try isolating the tank from the chassis using some fuel tube or o rings and mounting the tank just tight enough that it compresses the fuel tube or o ring. I always do this on my RC's to limit the vibration and foaming. What kind of chassis are you running and What kind of fuel are you running? you could try another brand of fuel also.
Bigblock
07-31-2002, 11:18 PM
Running trinity monster 20%, and XTM Big block kit. Ofna sport .21
James414
07-31-2002, 11:49 PM
I am going to be getting one of these awesome trucks. I have been looking at the vid clips on the internet and the tape from DIY networks. the only question I have is when I look at the pics or vids I only see a clutch bell with a single gear and a single spur. How is the truck a two speeder?
SixVi6
07-31-2002, 11:54 PM
James.. the t-maxx has got a sealed 2 speed tranny. the only exposed gears are the clutchbell and spur gear.
BigBlock..
Nice setup I use that same fuel and don't have any serious problems with foaming. try isolating the tank like I said or possibly somehow you got somehitng into the tank or into the fuel to cause excessive foaming.
MaxxThrasher
08-01-2002, 08:58 AM
Originally posted by Bigblock
Need help. What is making my T-Max fuel foam when truck is
running? It foams so much the truck shuts off. What can I do
to solve this problem? Truck has the stock T-Max gas tank with
no primer, and an Ofna .21 engine.
The fuel is your problem. Trinity Monster is prone to foaming. Other fuels to use are; Blue Thunder, Byrons, O'Donnells, Trinity Platinum Race Blend or some others that someone else might mention.
Switching fuel will solve this problem, but also isolating the fuel tank from the chassis like SixVi6 mentioned will also help.
Good luck. :cool:
MaxxThrasher
08-01-2002, 09:22 AM
Originally posted by ultimaxxracer
How can i make my t-maxx handle better. I've heard of just taking off the preload spacers but then the truck sits too low and the suspension is to softand i'm also wondering if anyone knows a way to get more run time out of a ported engine cause i only get about 5 mins in mine
As Got Speed mentioned, Raven springs and offset wheels will do the trick.
MaxxThrasher
08-01-2002, 09:43 AM
Also, as far as getting better milage out of your ported engine.....your SOL. The porting is what is causing your short run times.
Scrad
08-01-2002, 05:19 PM
What is the factory carb settings for the Hyper, for those of you that have one? I got mine running and it was fast, but I was trying to get more bottom end and must have messed it up.
LEMMEDRIVEIT!!
08-01-2002, 07:17 PM
Hey every one i need a little help
Turns out that i finally conived my parents to get me a T-maxx for christmas!!! i'm so happy.
Besides the T, what do i need? i have batts and a charger from my 2 electric cars, adn i know that i need fuel.
Also, are there any before run or during modifications to the car that i should do? I know about the carb flip. I don't think i'll bother. i have enough time to take out the fuel tank to set it.
I was looking on previous posts and i saw the big tube header( i think that thats the name of it.) it looked nice. Is it a good product? should i get that and a pipe(please suggest one) to increase the performance? and is it easy to install?
And, what is porting. I'm sure u get a billion stupid questions, but i'm really not sure. everyone says that it comes pre ported or you need to get it ported before running. I heard that for some .21's that u need a porting job?
Last, what should i get alluminum ( i mean my first alluminum upgrades) i'm not looking to make the whole truck alluminum, but certan pieces liek the bulkhead. annything else?
Thanx everyone, also, just throw in some easy advice or things i should and shouldn;t do. Thanx.
G-Dog
OK......
That's really all you need since you already have R/C and wrench on them.
You won't need to do the carb flip anyways....
BTH(big tube header) is great, more power, also get an Associated pipe for mega power.
NO engine NEEDS porting, porting just increases power and top speed and such. It opens up the port more, hence the word 'porting'. Look for a guy at www.maxxtraxx.com named Jesse, his s/n is JessesPorting. I think they are $25 or so. It's a great upgrade.
As for aluminum, stick with the TRX, it's cheap for parts, at least for now keep it, port it, then if you still need more power, upgrade the engine. As for now, also get a new head for the TRX. Bulks in aluminum are not needed that badly, and something else will break, so I would get some RPM arms and leave the stock bulks like they are. SixVi6 runs this setup with his .21 T and it's fine, the bulks may break, but usually nothing else does and they only break in huge crashes.
MAKE SURE YOU BREAK IN THE ENGINE RIGHT. That helps. :D
RPM Stablemaxx wheels(there are different wheel styles, these are the offset wheels) are a must for a Maxx. It's either that or get a wider suspension, but I wouldn't do that, get the RPM arms. A good reverse lock out is also a wise upgrade. Hope this helps....oh, and one more thing....
Have fun man. That's what it is all about.
MaxxThrasher
08-01-2002, 08:30 PM
I 2nd that!:D Great job GTX! :cool:
As far as upgrades for Christmas, The Big Tube Header and a pipe would be great. I've heard that the Hardcore Mutant head cools the TRX down by at least 10 degrees, never tried one though. Other upgrades I would just wait until something breaks to get. Upgrade as you go. Just break the engine in right. Take your time and have lots of fun.
Congrats!
I really like the mutant heads. I may go with a TRX and port the crap out of it and get a mutant head. I may ask for the 15 CV-RX as a present though!!! :D j/k, I can't wait that long!:p
LEMMEDRIVEIT!!
08-01-2002, 10:37 PM
Hey
Thanx so much for the info. At least some people know what they are talking about
I might port the engine, but not for a few months, or do i have to do it before i run it? Also, if i want to send it to jesse to port it, what do i do? just take out the engine and send ti to him?
Thanx everyone, bye- i really appreciate the info
And byt he way, i also broke in my friends T-maxx. He says that it works fine now, so i should have no problem with breaking it in, also, what fuel should i use? see ya guys and thanx alot.
Use some good fuel like Trinity or O Donnel or something good. 20% is a good starter, although I use 15%.
You can port the engine whenever you want. Remember, it's like adding a cooling head or something. You can do it when you need it.
You just contact him. If you can't find him, tell us and we will get the contact info for him to you. You would send the engine or at least the piston and sleeve set, although I would send the whole engine.
SixVi6
08-02-2002, 12:02 AM
Right Here..
Jesse's Porting (http://porting.clanpages.com/)
He needs the entire engine with carb for porting because the third port needs to be opened up on the TRX case, the crank will get worked on, the sleve will get worked on, and the carbs inlet will get radiused as well. Its the whole deal all at once.
And keep aluminum arms and bulkneads off t-maxxes unless you have extremely deep pockets or are an incredible driver and never crash into anything. In the long run you will save money. which would you rather break in a horrible crash? A $60+ set of aluminum bulkheads and $100+ in aluminum arms along with a $50+ chassis? or just a $7 bulkhead and a couple stock arms or lifetime guarantee RPM arms. hehe.. I chose the stock bulks and RPM/stock arms.
Ohh I ran the 24.7 with the 1/8 clutch setup and extreme slipper. OMG! wheelies.. violent wheelies and titanium sparks as the rear skid whacked the ground. The 24.7 is an unbelieveable engine and blows my Hyper .21 away. hehe..
Poolboy51
08-03-2002, 01:48 AM
Kimbrough 32 P, 72 T spur gear
18T clutch bell
traxxas BB 5x10x4
MIP clutch kit TMAXX
MIP stinger kit TMAXX
MIP on-board Temp-Gauge 2
Pro-Line MAXX suspension kit
OS carb retainer .12 CV
Powerline purple head .15 CV/X
Associated air filter kit
ok How does that look?:confused:
the things I NEED on there are:
the traxxas clutch bell (any tooth)
the BB
any clutch
the carb retainer
the airfilter
I have $210 to spend so reccomend me some stuff. Thanks
Bigblock
08-03-2002, 10:11 AM
SIXvi6, MAXthasher,
I guy that lives across from me has a t-max with a HB engine. runing the same fuel. irun it in my REflex nt with no foaming at all. the truck can be sitting still with 3/4 tank and the hole tank will foam as soon as i start it.
can this be that the piston /sleeve is bad I pulled the engine out of my OFNA MBX thats about a 1 1/2 yrs old and set for
two months before being put in the t-max. the engine starts easy went cold. do's not make power till temp is at 300 to 315. then when it cuts off it get hard to start not getting fuel. used to have great power at a temp of 250 to 275 but as went up when was put in the t-max.
thank for your help!
MES
ultrapc40
08-03-2002, 03:58 PM
Any one know where i can find a good deal on a T maxx, i am intrest in buying.
please post any link you know
thanks
www.ebay.com
www.maxxtraxx.com
SixVi6
08-04-2002, 03:25 AM
Bigblock
Yes it sounds like the engine is worn out. 300+ deg and hard starts when its hot because fuel is not getting to engine is a sign of a worn piston and sleve but as far as the worn engine causing the foaming I'm not sure. Foaming is caused by vibration. If the engine was worn or something was letting go causing it to vibrate more or at just the right frequency it could cause excessive foaming. I had an HPI RS4 2 that suffered foaming problems with Monster HP fuel until I switched to BT. Later I got a new engine and ended up back with the Monster HP fuel and didn't have any problems with foaming at all. So it could be the worn engine.
hehe.. I ran the maxx today against another .21 maxx at a bash track. hehe.. My 24.7 wailed on the poor XTM kit duratrax .21 powered truck. It was fun. and you would not believe how much better a 1/8 scale clutch setup impreoves performance. I love my latest setup! Here is a pic of the MP7.5 flywheel, clutch and Slipper on my maxx (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/247_01.jpg)
Sounds like you are a tough competitor. I will have a rolling T-Maxx soon, whenever I get my diffs from you. I just ordered some wheels and tires, so now all I need to get is a screw set. Then I can work on the middle chassis. I need a tranny and some other stuff. I want to trade some of my RC10GT stuff for a tranny or something, maybe for all the misc. parts I need. I already have a T-Maxx clutch, I just need to get a clutch nut for my GT so I can run my GT clutch and an 18T clutch bell. I am also gonna dye the wheels black(they are red now) and get some front bulks. Hopefully I will have a running T-Maxx in a few months. I need to get a better job, lol.
MaxxThrasher
08-05-2002, 08:26 AM
I need to get a better job, lol.
LOL! :p Don't we all!
BTW, I'm the president and CEO of a small corporation. No matter how much better of job you get, it's never good enough! The more you make, the more you spend! :D
BlutoSigPi
08-05-2002, 10:26 AM
Hey guys...a maxx question. My maxx will run as long as the tank is full. When the take gets to about half way full it stalls and it won't start...even when it cools off. If I take the line off the pipe and blow into it to pressurize the tank I can hear some air leaking out a little bit...and the fuel line to the carb gets air bubbles and stuff in it. I'm assuming it's leaking at the bottom where the line attaches....but why does it only do it when the tank is half full? I've had the tank off and pressurized it and it didn't leak...but this when it's cold of course. Sorta stuck I guess. :(
MaxxThrasher
08-05-2002, 10:54 AM
You could have an air leak at the seam of the tank or somewhere else. Use some CA or silicone and patch the seam on the tank to see if this is the problem area. You might need to replace the fuel lines or the tank itself.
It could also be the typical TRX operation. The stock TRX carburator settings have been known to become leaner as the fuel drains from the tank, the engine starts to run hot and the it stalls. You can run the engine settings more on the rich side to remedy this or just replace the crappy TRX engine.
R6905
08-05-2002, 12:38 PM
i was reading this article in "hi torques rc car" (which is the worst magazine ever) and it was talking about how good this aluminum tank was.... the guy was like "this tank's price (99$!) is well worth it from all the tanks I have needed to replace..... why would you need to replace a tank? do they break? or does the fuel break them down or melt away at the plastic ones????
Brandon (keep in mind i dont have any good rc cars right now)
BlutoSigPi
08-05-2002, 12:56 PM
Originally posted by MaxxThrasher
or just replace the crappy TRX engine.
Yeah this engine is...well...I've had better.
MaxxThrasher
08-05-2002, 01:33 PM
Don't feel bad, we've all been there.:(
BrandonM7
08-05-2002, 05:07 PM
Originally posted by R6905
i was reading this article in "hi torques rc car" (which is the worst magazine ever) and it was talking about how good this aluminum tank was.... the guy was like "this tank's price (99$!) is well worth it from all the tanks I have needed to replace..... why would you need to replace a tank? do they break? or does the fuel break them down or melt away at the plastic ones????
Brandon (keep in mind i dont have any good rc cars right now)
They break when you flip over and bang them on the ground. I've never had one break while running with a body on, but if you run the truck naked, lots of weird stuff breaks when you flip it over at 30mph...
davenow
08-05-2002, 06:26 PM
The clutch doesnt seem to want to kick in till HIGH rpm, then it starts out real jerky and runs REALLY slow(walking speed)
My lhs blames the engine(too small not enough power) But I have heard of guys racing this exact setup, so I have a hard time believing that. The clutch shoes seem ok, and the slipper is tight.
Any thoughts???
What clutch bell setup are you running? Try 18 tooth, that would be good to start with. Also look into a BTH and the AE pipe. You would want to get a reverse lockout to get rid of the jerky tranny too. You can wait until later to get the ehuast hop-ups, but I would get an 18T bell and lockout first thing.
MaxxThrasher
08-05-2002, 06:51 PM
Sounds like your LHS is trying to take you for a ride. (Oh well see sir, this engine is too small. What you need is this .21 ane .21 conversion kit. That'll get you going....cha ching!)LOL!
Yeah, don't buy anything without going through us first, lol. :D :p
davenow
08-05-2002, 06:54 PM
Already has an 18T and an aftermarket pipe.
Any thoughts on why this thing doesnt want to kick in till higher rpms??? Why does it run so jerky when starting out, and why so slow(walking speed)
MaxxThrasher
08-05-2002, 07:00 PM
Maybe something in the driveline? Tranny or diff gears? Or maybe for somereason the clutch just isn't getting a bite?:confused:
Clutch nut tight?
davenow
08-05-2002, 07:03 PM
Clutch nut is tight, I had motor out(was going to put it in my losi xxx-nt and put the mach .15 in the maxx, cant different shaft lengths)
Anyway, I put it all back together tight, no difference whatsoever.
The spur gear spins freely this seems weird to me,
Anyone else think the tranny is screwed? I am going to the LHS tonight(10 min) and am picking up the forward only shaft for the tranny, will this most likely fix the tranny problem(if it is one)???
MaxxThrasher
08-05-2002, 07:05 PM
Lift your truck off the ground, hold one tire and spin the others. If they spin freely while your holding one tire still, something is wrong with your driveshafts or differentials.
The spur spins freely on a stock tranny!
The lockout will fix that. Did you mess with the shift point on the 2 speed? Did you get it used?
MaxxThrasher
08-05-2002, 07:06 PM
Sorry, thats not right...what I ment so say was.........
MaxxThrasher
08-05-2002, 07:07 PM
If one or more wheels don't seem like they are catching then something is wrong in the driveline.
davenow
08-05-2002, 07:12 PM
OK If I hold one back wheel snd spin the other, all wheels turn same direction(does this both sides)
If I hold one front wheel and spin the other, they all turn but back wheels spin opposite directions(and front wheel doesnt turn as much)
davenow
08-05-2002, 07:14 PM
yes used, but looks brand new(other than the aftermarket motor)
So we all agree that the .12 is plenty motor for the t maxx?
Have you seen one running one?
MaxxThrasher
08-05-2002, 07:15 PM
Sounds like everything is ok there. Spin both rear wheels and both front should instantly spin in the same direction.
Could be in the tranny.
davenow
08-05-2002, 07:15 PM
OK just took another look, Diffs seem to be working just fine, I am wanting to blame the trans or clutch at this point.
How can I check the trans and the clutch?
MaxxThrasher
08-05-2002, 07:17 PM
Yes people do run the .12 in the Maxx. Nothing wrong with the .12 being under powered for the Maxx enough to cause that.
I had a 12 CV-RX in my T-Maxx. It ran great. I would get the lockout and check the clutch shoes as well as the tranny shift points. I may not be able to shift into second gear and/or the clutch shoes could be worn.
davenow
08-05-2002, 07:19 PM
OK so I think we have ruled out the motor and diffs.
Just the clutch and trans left to blame.
I am gonna pick up some new clutch shoes and a spring tonight and a forward only kit for the trans Lets hope this fixes it!!!
BTW how does the tmaxx run with a .12 cvrx compared to the trx .15???
davenow
08-05-2002, 07:20 PM
Will get those parts and update you guys when they are in!!!
MaxxThrasher
08-05-2002, 07:21 PM
GOOD LUCK!:cool:
MaxxThrasher
08-05-2002, 07:24 PM
The jerky movements when starting out sounds typical to when your engine is idled up too high and it's trying to engage, but then he gives it full throttle and it just creeps so it sounds like the clutch or something is slipping. :confused:
Hope he gets it fixed! Hate it when that happens!:D
It may be the clutch inside the tranny. CV-RX's are screamin fast!
MaxxThrasher
08-05-2002, 07:43 PM
My .15 is doing .21 type damage to my Maxx.:( Just went through the 2nd stock tranny gears. Backed off my Slipper some (Had it strong man tight!) and that help some but hate driving my truck this way. Time for more upgrades!
Gonna buy some aluminum gears for the tranny. Already bought another primary shaft (keeps failing where the one-way bearing rides), gonna get Kippster's Diff cup and mod RRP gear, Spider gear set and some Dynamite Diff. bearings. Sending all the gears out to have TiN coated. Then putting them all in an Aluminum Diff. case (less tranny gears) and see how that holds. Grrrrrrr!:p
davenow
08-05-2002, 10:02 PM
So I think I am gonna chalk it all up to my inexperience with nitro...
Guy at LHS spent 5 min screwing with the high speed screw, and it runs great. Not as explosive off the line as I would like, but its fast, the top end is unreal.Could be the climate change form where this truck is from??
BUT I bought some goodies anyway...
8 Traxxas Aluminum shock caps
4 trinity blue springs(gonna try one on each corner)
50wt shock oil
spool
Last night I ordered the FULL proline suspension kit(cvd's and all)
I think I am done upgrading for awhile...Will now just upgrade as things break
Well why didn't you tell us it wasn't tuned right? LOL :D :p
davenow
08-05-2002, 10:31 PM
Where and how?
I want it to shift a bit earlier, since the motor winds out way before it shifts...
BlutoSigPi
08-06-2002, 02:48 PM
Originally posted by BlutoSigPi
Hey guys...a maxx question. My maxx will run as long as the tank is full. When the take gets to about half way full it stalls and it won't start...even when it cools off. If I take the line off the pipe and blow into it to pressurize the tank I can hear some air leaking out a little bit...and the fuel line to the carb gets air bubbles and stuff in it. I'm assuming it's leaking at the bottom where the line attaches....but why does it only do it when the tank is half full? I've had the tank off and pressurized it and it didn't leak...but this when it's cold of course. Sorta stuck I guess. :(
I think the carb is leaking...but mostly when it's hot. When it's cold it seals up a bit. lol. Junk. Has anyone run a OS .15 CV-RX? I was thinking of buying this engine.
That's a great engine, get it if you can't fix this one!
Davenow: Did you get a manual? There is a plug on the top of the tranny leading into a view of a gear. On that gear(after you spin it to find it) is a set screw and a screw. I believe you turn it tighter to get it to shift later, and left to get it to shift sooner. Look around for that one in a manual. I will look for it too.
SixVi6
08-07-2002, 01:39 AM
yes tunring the 2 speed adjustement tighter will make it shift later at a higher rpm.. loosen it up and it will shift sooner at a lower rpm. Only turn this screw a 1/4 turn at a time in any direction... if you go cranking on the screw and turning it more than that you will throw the shift point totally out of the useable range and it will take a good amount of time to get it back to the sweet shifting spot.
davebirt
08-07-2002, 01:45 PM
My T maxx came with all 3 servos replaced with Futaba S3003's
Which means my steering servo has 44 in/oz even at 6volts, And My maxx turns great!!
Seriously, why do ppl need 150+oz/in servos? Just to crank the wheels while sitting still?
Today for 30 bucks I picked up a Hobbico servo its 77 oz/in at 4.8 and 92 @6v.
If my truck is doing fine with 44, I will be all set with 77...(I also picked up a reciever pack)
Whats with the mega servos???
LouisB
08-07-2002, 01:53 PM
standard servos are OK (not great) but when you hop-up your maxx it gets heavy, and is much harder to turn. For maxximum performance get a good servo.
If you're going to be using a receiver pack with that servo it will operate at 6v, you should notice an increse in performance.
davebirt
08-07-2002, 02:02 PM
I am just thinking that if Im doing fine with the futaba servo which is 44, I will be 100% set with the hobbico that is 77.
And My hopups are all going to be done with weight in mind.
(no unessesary aluminum just becasue its pretty)
LouisB
08-07-2002, 03:24 PM
The best thing about high torque servos is that most of them are metal geared, you will probably strip your stock servo gears easily. The increase in torque will also make settering more rsponsive.
davebirt
08-07-2002, 04:35 PM
Yeah I hadnt thought about that. I would be the futaba would strip out easily(although it hasnt yet)
BUT the hobbico I got is metal geared so I should be all set
davebirt
08-07-2002, 04:37 PM
Would a high torque throttle servo help me stop faster? I was thinking a higher torque throttle servo would squeeze the disk harder
Am I way off?
LouisB
08-07-2002, 05:04 PM
It would make a difference, but most people are happy with a standard servo. You can set up the stock servo to do endos of flip over, with a high torque servo you'd just lock the wheels and flip:(
LEMMEDRIVEIT!!
08-07-2002, 07:23 PM
OKay now i have a problem. I recently posted and had a whole conversation about getting a T and what i should get etc etc.. BUt, now the mad force came out, and i love thatt, also, the ofna titan is coming out, and the AE monster truck will be coming out soon too. I just scared that i might regret it if i get the T fro christmas, and turns out that the MF, titan, or the AEMT will be better or come out with a lot of hopups. Also what speeds would i be getting with the Big tube header, an AE pipe, a fuel filter, a ported engine, and a better cooling head? and some good tuning? whats speeds? thanx everyone for so much info. Now y'all gotta convince me to Get a T.
R6905
08-07-2002, 07:29 PM
lemmedriveit: lets just say i know the feeling lol! im in the same position right now.. im looking to get my first rc truck and i think i want the t-maxx but i dont know with all the others coming out.
Brandon
LEMMEDRIVEIT!!
08-07-2002, 07:40 PM
R6905- thanx. At least someone is in the same position as me- the new AE MT doesn't look too hot. like a maximum MT. \
EVERONE ELSE- C'mon people- i need advice and convincing.
Poolboy51
08-08-2002, 02:58 AM
Just wait to to get the AE truck, the Ofna truck or the Madforce. If the Monster truck market resmebles anything like the computer market whatever kit you buy will be obsolete in a year.:rolleyes: Just wait till the new ones come out and jump right in. You cant spend the whole time waiting for new kits or you'll never have a truck. A very wise man once said to me, just jump right in, it will be better in the long run than if you waited.:)
LEMMEDRIVEIT!!
08-08-2002, 01:09 PM
Thanx for that advice. I do have until Christmas, so i have a long time to decide. The only problem is, is that i don't know if the MF, or titan will be a big hit, have no defaults, and gets alot fo after market parts( i don't really like th AE MT. EVEN though it may be fast , its not as big as the T, o the MF, or the titan. but thanx fro the info.)
Got Speed
08-08-2002, 01:46 PM
I wouldn't even look at the MF. I really don't like alot of it's "features" and it's expensive for no more than what your getting. The titan looks better than the T out of the box because it has a .21, some wider wheels, and 1/8 shocks. But it is a 1/8 so it needs that stuff to be a good mt. The AE MT looks pretty good. If I know AE when they release theres it will be better than all the MTs on the market but it may come with a price tag to match it. I would wait until the chicago hobby show to make up your mind, since AEs should be out then.
If I were you Id either get a T-Maxx or possibly the AE MT. Id have to see it first though.
davebirt
08-08-2002, 02:31 PM
But anyway, yeah gte the Maxx or the AE, simply because you WILL break things and I havent been in a single shop that doesnt have a TON of AE and traxxas parts.
Whereas with an Ofna, good luck finding any parts without mail order.
MaxxThrasher
08-08-2002, 03:20 PM
Ofna makes tons of parts for they're vehicles, why is it that there aren't many LHSs that carry Ofna parts? I mean, look in RCCA. There are about 12 pages of Ofna ads in there.
davebirt
08-08-2002, 03:39 PM
I just found this out, its still not public info yet but there will be a LHS in Mass. that will be carrying OFNA r/c cars/trucks and parts.
(should be before Xmas)
LEMMEDRIVEIT!!
08-08-2002, 05:16 PM
Now that you mention it, my LHS doesn't carry any OFNA parts. THe mad force is what i would really like, but the hefty price tag, absence of carrying of parts, and CHAIN drive put it down. I think that i'm going with the T for now, and wait for the AE MT to come out, but like you said, it will probably cost a poopload of money. Probably in the 400's. So, either the AE MT lets go of some more info, or i'm just gonna try to convincemy parents to let me get the T-maxx early. Also from everyone here- i need saying and reasons that i should get a gas car to convince my parents!
LEMMEDRIVEIT!!
08-08-2002, 08:08 PM
Hey thanx GTX, but i'm below the age limit to drink and stuff, but they are good anyway for a joke. Yeah, i just amde a deal with my mom, that if i stick with the T-maxx until christmas, maybe i could get it earlier, or get extra hopups parts. I would be reallly ticked off if traxxas, HPI, or someone made a new MT in lke a few months after christmas that is a great MT and is affordable. Well, like whoever said this before, but if u don't go know u might as well not go at all!
MaxxThrasher
08-08-2002, 08:48 PM
Trashed yet another primary tranny gear. Think this is the 4th. Took the time to disassemble the rear differential, noted some slop in that area. Just as I thought, the bearings are shot. Noticed the diff cup is showing bad wear also where the spider shaft sets. So to get it running again(for a short time no doubt) I need a new primary gear for the tranny and a set of bearings for the diff. I can hardly get a tank of fuel through this thing without breaking something anymore. I think I'll just let it set while I save up for the upgrades I need. Thinking about buying some Mini-Zs. Christmas is coming up and I've been thinking about getting about 3 or 4 Mini-Zs and building a table top track so me and my girls can race. It would cost about the same as fixing my Maxx. :(
LEMMEDRIVEIT: It doesn't matter what age you are. I know a very nice, beautiful Christian girl that all of a sudden started drinking and getting into the wrong crowd. She will be 17 soon, and she already has a problem with it. Just stick it out and play with your R/C's man, it's much more fun. You can drink all you want when you are older, just be wise about it.
Maxxthrasher: List all the hop-ups and specs of your T-Maxx so I can take a good look at it and maybe can find something for you. Maybe a better gear for the tranny and some other parts.
LEMMEDRIVEIT!!
08-08-2002, 11:01 PM
GTX- OK man- THanx for the advice
Maxxtrasher- Try going to www.unlimitedengineering.com I know there stuf is expensive, but they shoudl fix your problem just about forever
LEMMEDRIVEIT!!
08-08-2002, 11:07 PM
GTX- OK man- THanx for the advice
Maxxtrasher- Try going to www.unlimitedengineering.com I know there stuf is expensive, but they shoudl fix your problem just about forever
Everyone else- I made a long deal with my mom about the T, and if the deals works out, i will be able to get some upgrades. This is my list of upgrades that i put together for the T that i will try to get over time- tell me wht you think.
#1 A new engine(.15)
#2 fuel fitler
#3 air filter
#4 A better pipe and header
#5 foward only conversion
#6 alluminum treanny case and gears
#7 CVD's
#8 maybe better diffs
#9 alluminum or threaded shocks
#10 boost bottle
#11, fuel tank gaurd
#12 better transmitter
#13 Better servos
#14 for the TRX while i have it get a better cooling head for it and get it
ported
#15 Raven dualrate springs
#16 either the proline suspension kit or Stablemaxx offset wheels
#17maybe allumnum body posts
#18 RPM A-arms(the plastic ones)
#19Better brake kit
#20 Maybe steel spur, better gearing etc.
Anything else that i forgot would be appreciated. I'm not looking to make this truck all alluminum, i'm justall about speed, performance, and durablity of some light bashing. Any comments? also, please tell me what brands that i should get for the things that i didn't mention names for(like what shocks, what pipe, enigne, etc etc) Also, if you reccomend an engine( i was thinking of a Novarossi or a CV-RX) what i would need to run that certan kind of engine, how to maintain it, how to install it, what i need for it etc etc
Thanx everyone for all of the advice you've given me. I just hope that after i get the T a whole new line of awesome affordable monster trucks don't come out cause that would tick me off-
Garrett
Got Speed
08-09-2002, 12:29 AM
Originally posted by LEMMEDRIVEIT!!
GTX- OK man- THanx for the advice
Maxxtrasher- Try going to www.unlimitedengineering.com I know there stuf is expensive, but they shoudl fix your problem just about forever
Maxxtrasher!? ROFL Im gonna get one of their trannys eventually. I hear their bombproof!
BlutoSigPi
08-09-2002, 01:48 AM
Hey guys just a heads up. I bought a megatech m-16 to replace the TRX with and alli can say is wow. MUCH better acceleration...top end...everything. And it stays running..no more vapor lock. By the time you have your TRX ported and buy a new head for it you could throw in a few more bucks and pick up this engine. I must say so far I am impressed.
MaxxThrasher
08-09-2002, 08:47 AM
Bluto, good luck! A lot of us have been that route. Most of us have found that if the engine doesn't fail prematurely, the life of the engine just isn't very long. The old saying, you get what you pay for really holds true.
LEMME,
Thanx, but I'm well aware of UE's products and their prices. I don't think I have to go to that extreme.
GTX,
I'll list in a bit.
Got Speed,
Good luck! I've never bought any of their products to date, but I've heard nothing but good things about them. Just more then I'd like to spend on any one vehicle. Heck, including the truck I've already gone passed the $3,000 mark and I hardly have any hop up parts on the silly thing!
MaxxThrasher
08-09-2002, 09:36 AM
Let me tell you a little something about that. I was quite the lush when I was younger. Started drinking when I was about 14. Hard stuff too! Jack Daniels straight out of the bottle! Got to where I would go through a 1/5 every weekend. Switched to drinking beer for a while and only touched the hard stuff off and on. By the time I was 17-18 I was lying about my age and going into bars. The old run down scary looking honkytonk kind too! Been thrown out of many, chased by the police, arrested, been in many fights, have scars from punching my hand through plate glass windows. I've been stiched up many times after a night of drinking. Been dang lucky I made it home many times. In fact looking back, I'm dang lucky to be alive to tell you this. There were many times I woke up not knowing where I was or how I got home or where my car was. Luckily I've never crashed my car or even gotten pulled over while intoxicated.
I didn't always get so plasterd I couldn't see straight. Sometimes I would only have 1 or 2 beers, but then sometimes that's all it takes to get in trouble.
My point is, when I look back at that time in my life I ask myself a couple of questions.
Did I have fun? Yes
Do I have anything to show for the fun I had? NO, not unless you want to count the scars from being stitched up.
Was it worth it? NO
I could easily be dead many times over from all the stupid things I pulled.
I haven't drank anything in 8 years. I surely don't miss it and I dang sure don't miss the hangovers. Not to mention all the wasted money, time and ultimately wasted life.
DON'T DRINK!
Got Speed
08-09-2002, 12:48 PM
I completly agree! I have never drank(and never will) but I have seen many people who have and some of my aunts and uncles. It is completly not worth it. Not only do they do really stupid things, take the chance of killing themselves, take the chance they might kill someone else(either by accident or on purpose), get thrown in jail, smell real bad, most people see you like that and just want to get away from you they don't want anything to do with you at all.
One example I can remember is while I was in San Fransisco there was a drunk trying to walk up the sidewalk next to us and he fell flat on his face, then he started crawling up the sidewalk, then, he got up and fell flat on his face again, he was all bruised, dirty, and bloody. Now does that sound like fun!?:confused:
My .02 cents
MaxxThrasher
08-09-2002, 04:47 PM
GTX,
Here is my Maxx as it is.
Stock chassis: corner rounded edges and polished to a luster.
Stock radio and servos with Dynamite aluminum servo arms polished.
Dynamite aluminum servo mounts throttle/brake polished
Stock battery box
Stock receiver and box with neon green antenna tube
Stock gas tank: modified (no more plunger) with Dynamite aluminum gas cap polished
Dynamite Neon Green fuel tubing
Hardcore aluminum slide carb. bell crank polished
OS .15 CV RX slide carb. with motor saver air filter, big tube header and Dynamite tuned pipe polished, GS Neon Green coupler, polished stock motor mount, RRP vented fly wheel polished, Racers Edge 20T clutch bell, and MIP clutch shoes.
Stock transmission with RRP brake kit polished and RRP steel 72T spur gear
Dynamite aluminum bottom braces polished
Dynamite aluminum steering bell cranks with bearings
Dynamite CVD center drives
Duratrax aluminum skid plates front and rear polished
Front end assembly: Mostly stock except for Traxxas Titanium turnbuckles, Dynamite (Losi) aluminum threaded shocks, Dynamite CVDs, Dynamite bearings in the steering knuckles and RPM chrome Titan wheels with Pro-Line Maxx Masher tires.
Rear end assembly: Mostly stock except for Traxxas Titanium turnbuckles, Dynamite (Losi) aluminum threaded shocks, Dynamite CVDs, Dynamite bearings in the steering knuckles, Trinity aluminum body posts polished, RPM chrome Titan wheels and Pro-Line Maxx Masher tires.
That’s pretty much it. Now my problem areas are the transmission and rear differential. What I plan on doing is buying some GH aluminum tranny gears and sending them out to be Titanium Nitride coated along with the primary shaft, which I also have a problem with as the one-way bearing tends to eat it up.
As far as the rear differential goes, I plan to buy Integy’s aluminum diff. case, Megatech aluminum diff. collar, Dynamite bearings, Kippster’s diff. cup and modified RRP ring gear, and Kippster’s spider gear set and also having these gears along with the diff. cup sent out to be Titanium Nitride coated.
I think that will solve my problem at least until another one arises.
BlutoSigPi
08-09-2002, 06:21 PM
Originally posted by MaxxThrasher
Bluto, good luck! A lot of us have been that route. Most of us have found that if the engine doesn't fail prematurely, the life of the engine just isn't very long. The old saying, you get what you pay for really holds true.
Thanks for the tip bro. Just didn't feel like spending almost 170+tax for the OS. And by the time this engine fails I should have a TTR EK-4 Unlimited to pour my $ into. :D
Bigblock
08-10-2002, 12:31 AM
is any one here using 7.5 Diffs in there T-max. If so why and how well do they work. do you have to mod. the diff or housing for them to work.
Hmmm. Maxxthrasher I would just try an aluminum diff cup from Kippster and maybe some spider gears and get a Rix Gear lockout kit. They tested that lockout kit with two .21 engines. Are you really fond of reverse? I'm not. So I would try that first.
TitansGT4
08-10-2002, 10:53 AM
I've got an HPI .15 SS in my Maxx, and i added a 23 tooth clutch bell, do u think this is the right engine 4 the truck? Or should I buy the OS CV RX i was thinkin about?
TitansGT4
08-10-2002, 11:01 AM
I was also thinkin aboutt the Hot Bodies .18, that suposedly has alot of power, what do u guys think about that?
Well are you lookin for speed, torque, or a little of both?
LouisB
08-10-2002, 03:15 PM
Originally posted by TitansGT4
I was also thinkin aboutt the Hot Bodies .18, that suposedly has alot of power, what do u guys think about that?
It has quite a bit of power for a while, but after a gallon it starts to lose compression, idle badly and overheat:(
DO NOT GET THIS ENGINE
It may be cheap but you'd be better off getting an ABC engine.
I would go for an OS or a small block competition engine, like the RB Concepts C12 for example;)
From what I've seen (in a couple of hpi trucks) the SS engines like to rev high so I would go back to 20 or 18
TitansGT4
08-10-2002, 06:14 PM
Thanks, I just went out and bought an O.S CV-RX, im waiting 2 test it out, because now my reciever's busted lol.
TitansGT4
08-10-2002, 06:14 PM
.15 CV-RX*
TitansGT4
08-10-2002, 06:25 PM
w/ the CV-RX, i hav a 23 T clutch bell, i wanted more torque w/ the SS, do u think this is bad 4 an engine w/ that much torque?
SixVi6
08-10-2002, 07:45 PM
Bigblock..
I will be runnig 7.5 SuperMaxx diffs soon. I'm already running a 7.5 flywheel, clutch, and clutchbell. By next week for sure I'll have them. I'll also need a larger clutchbell for my maxx when I get the 7.5 diffs.
Poolboy51
08-10-2002, 10:45 PM
my parts for my Tmaxx same in today! It should be up and running in a few days.:) :cool:
LEMMEDRIVEIT!!
08-11-2002, 06:49 PM
YAY!!! there is a new T-maxx- with .21, wider stance, better tires, thicker chassis-----etc etc etc!!!!!!1 i am so poopin happy- i just need to know the price and stuff- i am definantley hopefuly gettin this for christmas, but if its stinky i won't which i doubt!!!!! TRaxxas just announced it- it will be released septemer7th
Bigblock
08-11-2002, 10:14 PM
what is a 7.5 supermaxx diff. do's 7.5 diffs go in t-maxx housing with no mods. if not what do you need too do. and what kind of shaft is on your engine sg. or phoit.
thanks,
LouisB
08-12-2002, 08:11 AM
Originally posted by LEMMEDRIVEIT!!
YAY!!! there is a new T-maxx- with .21, wider stance, better tires, thicker chassis-----etc etc etc!!!!!!1 i am so poopin happy- i just need to know the price and stuff- i am definantley hopefuly gettin this for christmas, but if its stinky i won't which i doubt!!!!! TRaxxas just announced it- it will be released septemer7th
It doesn't have a .21, it has a slide carb, rear exhaust .15
LEMMEDRIVEIT!!
08-12-2002, 11:20 AM
Yeah- i just found out- that really beeps me off- oh well- read myt other post in the nitro monster trucks forum- see ya
Yes, and the tranny should be able to hack it as long as you use the slipper.
davebirt
08-12-2002, 04:17 PM
I wont have the cash for the forward only kit for a few weeks, SO
CAN I just remove the servo? what can I do to lock it in forward with the servo removed?
Epinephrine
08-13-2002, 02:17 PM
Im getting a T-Maxx soon and probably a JR XR3. I was wanting to know, if I put in a XR3, does the tranny still auto shift or is that only if you have the TQ3? Also, what is a good JR servo for a T-Maxx steering that is under 125? I may be getting the Pro Line suspension but dont really wanna spend the 150 for the 3 sets of CVD's. Do the stock drive shafts hold up ok? Thanks
davenow
08-13-2002, 05:22 PM
OK
The transmission shift form 1 to 2 not the radio, so yes it will still shift
You dont have to use a JR servo with that radio, you can use any futaba compatable servo. I myself use a hobbico 94oz-in servo that I paid a whole 39.99 for, It works GREAT way better than the stock one
Look for any servo with 100 oz inch or higher, as I said, mine only has 94oz-in and it can crank the wheels side to side while sitting still.
R/Cbum4life
08-13-2002, 11:54 PM
Any one have any feelings about this new traxxas 2.5 engine? (check out www.t-maxx..com) Is it all show and no go or what? Should I put this in my truck as opposed to a o.s. cv-rx?
It probably has more power and it was designed mainly for the T-Maxx, so I would say yeah, it would be a better engine but it needs more stuff for it also. It's a big block .15 motor man.
R/Cbum4life
08-14-2002, 12:35 PM
When I said os cv-rx i was reffering to the .15. If its a big block does that mean you need a bigger chassis?
Yeah, I know you were referring to the .15. There are two kinds of .15 engines- small block and big block. The 15 CV-RX by O.S. is a small block .15. The TRX 2.5 is a BIG block .15. It's like a .21, but with .15 displacement, get it?
And no, you won't need a bigger chassis, just a different header and maybe pipe. But I want to get a whole new T-Maxx, maybe for X-Mas. I think I will need to get a slipper though, unless it already comes with a good one. Do the new T's come with slippers that hold up well?
MaxxThrasher
08-14-2002, 01:51 PM
I read the TRX 2.5 was concidered a small block engine and is ROAR legal.
LouisB
08-14-2002, 02:07 PM
I snapped my maxx in 2, its only held together by a single tie-rod LOL
Looks like another trip to the hobby shop:D
MaxxThrasher
08-14-2002, 02:11 PM
I did that to mine just 3 weeks after I got it. Broke the rear bulkheads and skid plate. The only thing that was holding mine together was the easy start wires.
From what I have heard it's a big block, but see for yourself at the Maxxtraxx Lounge!
MaxxThrasher
08-14-2002, 03:49 PM
Quoted by SteveP in the New Products Forum. That was as far as I needed to go as Steve's word is good enough for me.BTW - the new Traxxas "2.5" is a small-block engine, not a big block. They did it this way very intentionally. Now that engine will fit most other applications that accept a small-block engine. After having seen the engine run, I'm confident it's among the most powerful small-blocks in the world. It's not an "outlaw" engine either. They built it according to ROAR specs so that if a .15 small-block engine was ever written into the rules (as I feel it should be), it would autmatically be legal.
Well that's what I get for not lookin at Steve's posts, lol. :D:D :D
LouisB
08-14-2002, 05:25 PM
I only broke the front bulkheads, skid-plate, steering link and a couple of screws:) The chassis was mostly stock, I've been upgrading engine etc so it wont cost too much. I also busted the bodyshell, but i've been needing a new one for a while.
After stripping 3 stock spur gears in as many days (I know they're meant to be sacrificial but c'mon) i'm going to get the RRP steel gear+ slipper combo. Do you think that this will mean i'll keep breaking other parts, or should I be able to set it loose enough to allow enough give?
If you want to know I crashed into a friend's car (the car is fine) at WOT:eek:
StevePond
08-22-2002, 06:44 PM
Testing...
StevePond
08-22-2002, 06:44 PM
This thread is fixed :D BTW - the new TRX 2.5 is NOT a big block, and yes, it hauls ass. :p :D
Got Speed
08-22-2002, 07:03 PM
is it true that it revs to 33,000 at 1hp?
R6905
08-22-2002, 09:15 PM
got speed: if you have heard that, it is most likely a rumor, cause traxxas has not released it yet and on their website (as far as i know) it doesnt say that.
Brandon
MaxxThrasher
08-28-2002, 10:26 AM
Test...
MaxxThrasher
08-28-2002, 10:29 AM
Update...
I finally got some time to run to my LHS. Bought the needed bearings for my differential and the primary gear for my tranny, got them assembled and put back into my truck yesterday. Sure is nice to drive my truck again.:cool:
Help!!
I offered to fix my friend's T-maxx transmission, and now I can't figure it out. I have narrowed it down to the reversing mechanism, I think. Maybe the clutches are messed up. Any ideas? Hurry!
LouisB
08-28-2002, 05:54 PM
How should I set my RRP slipper clutch now it's broken in?
Thanks
All the way in, then about a 1/2 turn out.
MaxxThrasher
08-28-2002, 06:17 PM
Originally posted by Soya
Help!!
I offered to fix my friend's T-maxx transmission, and now I can't figure it out. I have narrowed it down to the reversing mechanism, I think. Maybe the clutches are messed up. Any ideas? Hurry!
What was the truck doing?
I don't know. He gave me the tranny at school. The spur turns, but not the diff output shafts:confused:
MaxxThrasher
08-28-2002, 07:59 PM
I don't think it's designed to until it's under a load. Have you taken the tranny apart?
crazyL
08-28-2002, 08:36 PM
yeah u need to reach a very high rpm which u cant get by hand turning to engage the transmittion
I spun the spur shaft in a drill (about 1400 rpm) Yes, I have taken it apart several times.:confused:
samaj
08-29-2002, 04:35 PM
I have just recently bought a T-maxx. I'am in the breaking in stage. What % nitro content is best for overall sport performance & long lasting engine. I need to know the Nitro & oil content.
Got Speed
08-29-2002, 04:46 PM
I like 20% for bashing and racing, good all around. I like Blue Thunder and Oddonel the most with trinity next.
MaxxThrasher
08-29-2002, 04:48 PM
20% Nitro-12% Lube. Some people go as high as 18% on the lube, but that decreases the Nitro performance.
Soya- Was the tranny in good working condition before it quit working or did this person buy the truck with tranny already in this condition? From what you are describing, sounds like the cluthes aren't engaging?:confused:
The night he got it he took it apart. He probably messed it up. I'm going to go work on it now. Wish me luck:(
MaxxThrasher
08-29-2002, 06:33 PM
Well if you don't already have one, download an exploded view of the tranny from the Traxxas site to make sure the tranny is assembled correctly. From your description it sounds like he went and wrenched on the clutch adjustment screws. :( The probably just need adjusting.
Yeah, I already have the diagram. I'll let him mess with it:o
MaxxThrasher
08-29-2002, 08:12 PM
Oh well, you can't say you didn't try. :D
LouisB
09-02-2002, 12:20 PM
Does anybody have any ideas on tires for climbing on smooth rocks (the beach type) I don't know how any tires could get a grip but i'd really like to know if there are any, it would be great if they also worked on grass :)
insanemods
09-02-2002, 02:00 PM
masher 2000 hook-up well on most any surface because they are so soft.I use them on my E-MAXX for climbing rock piles and seeing how far up I can get before I have too climb up and get it or the battery's dump......
OvalQueen
09-03-2002, 01:57 AM
The new T Maxx 2.5 is much more than expected, I broke mine in yesterday & it is fantastic.
Wheelies? Oh yea baby.
Heres a pic of "The One"
speedydave
09-03-2002, 03:22 AM
I know this has probably been asked before, but I don't have the time or patience to search almost 50 pages of info. I'm just curious as to what you Maxxers think is needed to make a bulletproof .21 T-Maxx(yeah yeah the 2.5 is great, blah blah...I like overkill, and the 2.5 isn't enough :rolleyes: ;) ). I also bash my bashers pretty hard(this would be a basher for sure). So far, I'm thinking:
XTM .21 conversion
PL suspension with CVD's
Ofna Hyper .21 engine(seen some run, they seem pretty reliable)
RRP FOC and primary output gear, brake, and slipper
SM 7.5 differentials(preferably the bulkless ones)
Hardcore Ti skids
Masher 2K's(already have 'em from my E-Maxx)
FM radio(my 3PDF has an extra spot, I have an extra receiver..bam!)
SM servo saver
Hitec 5945MG steering servo and 5625MG throttle servo
Hardcore titanium screw kit(or some other, hex head, complete screw kit)
Big Bore shocks, or something else all aluminum(suggestions?)
I can't really think of anything else right now...lol, should I just buy the parts separately, or buy the truck, and sell off the old parts? Also, what suggestions do you have for alternates to what I said, or suggestions for additional things? This is ONLY an idea in my head right now, I definitely don't have the money for this right now(maybe for Christmas :) )...I just want a fast, fun, durable truck, but my E-Maxx hasn't fit the bill lately. Thanks!
EDIT: Am I crazy? I think I am...that's the only thing that explains this! :D
fezzy
09-03-2002, 04:05 AM
Cool! Any more piccies? Preferrably without a top?
OvalQueen
09-03-2002, 11:17 AM
This pic shows the new cool exhaust set-up. This pipe makes it sound deep,but peppy :)
LouisB
09-03-2002, 11:39 AM
SWEET:D
How do you find the engine runs, reliability, idling wise???
oh yeah, what's the new EZ start like?
Thanks
OvalQueen
09-03-2002, 11:47 AM
Engine idles like a dream, not much needs to be adjusted but the idle set screw & the EZ start is way better. I will post a link to the full review as soon as I get it online :)
R6905
09-03-2002, 02:59 PM
ok, anybody that wants to upgrade their maxx into a "bullet proof" maxx.... tell me if you want a 5 notebook page list of 3000$ worth of upgrades for your maxx that i think are the best, it might take me a while to respond but i will try to give it to you if you want it
Brandon
LouisB
09-03-2002, 04:10 PM
Thanks, I already have a nice racing maxx with a RB engine but I was considering getting a nitro rustler (if they include this engine) and giving the XXX-NTs and GTs a beating (it can be done!):D
speedydave
09-03-2002, 06:07 PM
$3000? It'll cost that much? No thanks...and, I'm not looking for a 3 page suggestion...I also know someone who is selling a NICE Maxx, that all it really needs to be how I was saying is the .21 kit, engine, skids, and diffs. It's got a 15 cvr-x in it right now, plus a bunch of other stuff.
Well, obviously I was in over my head with this thing(I seem to be a lot :rolleyes: ), so, what would you suggest to help make the T-Maxx more durable and more powerful? I'd like to keep this under $1500 if possible.
insanemods
09-03-2002, 07:19 PM
Hey Speedydave,I have a .21 Maxx and I spent more time in building than I spent money.It took me about three weeks to finish and it has not wasted one part yet.I've been running it for about two months at my indoor dirt track....
1.No extended chasis
2.No special parts to order
3.No conversion kits
what I used was this......
1.GS .21 1.9hp p/s with header and gaskets(spring)
2.Two small pieces of aluminum block to mount motor on,any machine shop will have scrap laying around
3.Tap and die set--Big Lots store,,$9.95
4.Forward tranny-traxxas conversion gear and shaft-$12.00
5.Ofna hub adapters-$24.95
6.Ofna MT3 split wheels-$17.95
7.Mulcher tires-$22.00
8.Traxxas blue tuned pipe for Max,buy piano wire for pipe mount
Edit #2,make sure that the alum. blocks are tall enough so the bottom of the pull start does'nt hit the shock tower
9.CJ8 jeep body
I dont think I left anything out but if I did I'll send it to you later
speedydave
09-03-2002, 08:03 PM
Hmm...now this has me thinking. T-Maxx, Mad Force, or Monster GT(yeah yeah, all of them are new, but the Mad Force looks NIIIICE, there's a T-Maxx class at my track, though I already have a 1/8 buggy and a 1/10 gas truck, and I'm a big AE fan...). I guess I have some time to think though..
R/Cbum4life
09-04-2002, 09:04 PM
Hey speedydave that maxx your talking about maybe buying with the o.s. 15 in it if you buy it I might be interested in buying the engine off of you. Anybody else have that engine for sale or anything else better then the crappy stock .15? Can't justify the cost of a new engine and the stock one blows. my t is out of comission till i rebuild it or till i buy a new engine. Anyone know what is costs to rebuild and os?
speedydave
09-04-2002, 11:33 PM
$75? I'd buy a piston, sleeve, AND connecting rod for a rebuild..but that's just me.
Porsche
09-05-2002, 07:02 PM
My friend was out driveing his New TMAXX!!! he got it Monday!!! It is sweet!!! I my self own a Monster Pirate but this thing was nice. That .15 is fast!!! And you can get the front wheels up easy!!! I cop puleed up to us and we thought he was going to be mad. Instead he clocked it for us!!! It got up to 27 MPH on very loose gravel that you can not get good grip on !!! It was FUN!!!
OvalQueen- They are nice right!!! I know how you feel!!!
Chris
Porsche
Got Speed
09-05-2002, 07:50 PM
Originally posted by speedydave
I know this has probably been asked before, but I don't have the time or patience to search almost 50 pages of info. I'm just curious as to what you Maxxers think is needed to make a bulletproof .21 T-Maxx(yeah yeah the 2.5 is great, blah blah...I like overkill, and the 2.5 isn't enough :rolleyes: ;) ). I also bash my bashers pretty hard(this would be a basher for sure). So far, I'm thinking:
XTM .21 conversion
PL suspension with CVD's
Ofna Hyper .21 engine(seen some run, they seem pretty reliable)
RRP FOC and primary output gear, brake, and slipper
SM 7.5 differentials(preferably the bulkless ones)
Hardcore Ti skids
Masher 2K's(already have 'em from my E-Maxx)
FM radio(my 3PDF has an extra spot, I have an extra receiver..bam!)
SM servo saver
Hitec 5945MG steering servo and 5625MG throttle servo
Hardcore titanium screw kit(or some other, hex head, complete screw kit)
Big Bore shocks, or something else all aluminum(suggestions?)
I can't really think of anything else right now...lol, should I just buy the parts separately, or buy the truck, and sell off the old parts? Also, what suggestions do you have for alternates to what I said, or suggestions for additional things? This is ONLY an idea in my head right now, I definitely don't have the money for this right now(maybe for Christmas :) )...I just want a fast, fun, durable truck, but my E-Maxx hasn't fit the bill lately. Thanks!
EDIT: Am I crazy? I think I am...that's the only thing that explains this! :D
XTM converion comes with CVDs so you won't need to get them with the PL suspension. Or you could get the SM one but it's alot of $$$.
Hyper .21
Instead of the RRP FOC Id get the SM nylon FOC. About the same price but much lighter and equally if not stronger than steel.
SM 7.5 Diffs
I don't think a rear TI skid is really needed, but it wouldn't hurt if you have the money.
For bashing the M2Ks are great.
definatly the FM radio
I don't think the servo saver is really needed, and it's awful expensive for just a servo saver.
Good servo to use.
The screws really arn't needed either but hex heads are nice.
Definattly some aluminum shocks. Maybe 1/8th scale shocks, if not Losi shocks or Big Bores.
Id substitute the PL suspension and servo saver for a SM Racer X suspension.:D
Other than that sounds like a great setup.
speedydave
09-06-2002, 01:12 AM
SM suspension is expensive! And, I think the XTM .21 kit has CVD's for the standard arms, and the PL arms are longer, so I meant CVD's for those. I may buy this other T-Maxx for $200 if I catch it in time though...15 CVRX with slide carb and slide carb adapter, RRP FOC and primary output gear, RRP slipper, reinforced(doweled) sliders, big tube header, GT pipe, and some other stuff...it's in great condition, and I can also get some other stuff off the guy(like big bores for $60, f/r hardcore skids for $50, SM servo saver for $60)...It's really tempting ;) Thanks for all your help and suggestions!:)
Got Speed
09-06-2002, 03:17 PM
Does anyone have a stock T-Maxx chassis they would sell cheap?
RC_craver
09-09-2002, 03:47 PM
Hey guys, I got some $ in my pocket and was wondering what upgrades or hop-ups i should put into my T-maxx. No, it is not the newer one....i already have a custom roll cage, robinson racing high perofrmance steel flywheel, an inline fuel filter, upgraded front and rear rpm bumpers and the newest cvec pipe you can get for it. I am on a budget so try to keep everything under $100. I was thinking the pro-line suspension kit with the matching cved's or cvd's ( i am new at this give me a break). Also I do not uderstand the gear ratio thing, so could you help me out by telling me, if i wanted more acceleration, what i could put into it. Is a 1:4 gear ratio more acc then a 1:3 gear ratio and stuff like that. Thanks alot,
RC_CRaver
Well, in case any of you have been wondering what is up with me, I will tell you.
I am buying a .21 T-Maxx!!!!
Here is a link to pics-
http://pub10.ezboard.com/fthenewmonstertruckcommunityfrm1.showMessage?topic ID=58.topic
Here are the specs too:
It also has metal driveshafts ALL AROUND, alum. arms all around, alum knuckles and bulk in the rear. Has a Ti rear skid and polished front and rear. Also has a TTR .21 Pro and all the clutch components. BIG BORES!!!! Also has shock sox(YES!!) and a New Era .21 conversion. As for the wheels, they are purple stablemaxxes with Mashers. And for the steering, it has an XTM system on it and Ti turnbuckles all around. Sound sweet? That's because it is! It also comes with the TQ3 radio system and some nice servos.
tiek101
09-13-2002, 06:02 PM
Can anyone tell me the performance differences between the two?
FRANCISCO
09-16-2002, 02:15 PM
HI THERE, MY NAME IS FRANCISCO AND I HAVE A QUESTION, I HAVE A TRINITY PICCO REAR EXHAUST RACING ENGINE .15, DO YOU THINK THAT IT WILL BE A GOOD THING FOR MY T-MAXX ?????
THANK YOU
FRANCISCO
Got Speed
09-16-2002, 02:37 PM
Im sure it would give it alot more power, wheelies, ect but you may every once in a while strip tranny or diff gears, depending on how you drive it.
tiek101-The steel flywheel is heavier adn the aluminum is lighter which causes these differences:
alum: rougher idle, better acceleration
steel: smoother idle, slower acceleration
crono man
09-16-2002, 02:41 PM
anybody tried the dynamite headlock glow igniter instead of the stock blue wire setup?
is it worth it?
Got Speed
09-16-2002, 02:43 PM
Originally posted by GTX
Well, in case any of you have been wondering what is up with me, I will tell you.
I am buying a .21 T-Maxx!!!!
Here is a link to pics-
http://pub10.ezboard.com/fthenewmonstertruckcommunityfrm1.showMessage?topic ID=58.topic
Here are the specs too:
It also has metal driveshafts ALL AROUND, alum. arms all around, alum knuckles and bulk in the rear. Has a Ti rear skid and polished front and rear. Also has a TTR .21 Pro and all the clutch components. BIG BORES!!!! Also has shock sox(YES!!) and a New Era .21 conversion. As for the wheels, they are purple stablemaxxes with Mashers. And for the steering, it has an XTM system on it and Ti turnbuckles all around. Sound sweet? That's because it is! It also comes with the TQ3 radio system and some nice servos.
Sounds like a pretty good deal your getting. I guess you decided you want another maxx after all? lol :p
FRANCISCO
09-16-2002, 02:49 PM
THANK YOU GOT SPEED, ONE MORE THING, WHAT KIND OF UPGRADES DO YOU NEED TO DO IF ANY, TO JUMP WITH THE T=MAXX ??????
Got Speed
09-16-2002, 03:15 PM
Well, I don't think there are any nescesities, but I think aluminum shocks and offset wheels or suspension help alot. For racing bowtie tires if not masher 2000s hook up well on just about anything and give alot better grip than the stock tires. None are musts but they all help alot.
Scrad
09-16-2002, 04:31 PM
Is anyone interesting in buying a mostly stock T-Maxx??? It has a Proline suspension kit, a cv-hyper .15, RPM front and rear bumpers, dynamite rx pack, Duratrax tuned pipe or a ring pipe, and a custom made rear skid plate.
Let me know and shoot me a price if you would be interested.
SixVi6
09-16-2002, 08:23 PM
well I took a few pics of my maxx today. so I figured I'd post them. I've now got SM 1/8 7.5 diffs, 1/8 clutch, clutchbell, and lots more.
http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/maxx_46.jpg
and one more pic... (http://home.attbi.com/~exsells/maxx_47.jpg)
John
R/Cbum4life
09-17-2002, 10:41 PM
Scrad, i might be interested in buying the engine but not the rest of the truck. How much you want for it?
Scrad
09-18-2002, 08:59 AM
Well I don't really want to part it out, but I do have a friend that may want it but not the motor. So if he ends up buying it I'll let you know.
FRANCISCO
09-18-2002, 01:46 PM
SCRAD WOULD YOU SEND ME AN E=MAIL WITH THE PRICE OF YOUR T-MAXX ? THANK YOU SO MUCH.
MY E-MAIL IS URU1121@AOL.COM
THANKS AGAIN,
FRANCISCO
FRANCISCO
09-18-2002, 01:49 PM
HEY GUYS, I SAW A PICTURE OF A TWIN ENGINE T-MAXX !!!!!!!! WITH ALMOST 4 HP. ITS CRAZY!!!!!
WHO WANT SO SEE IT ?
FRANCISCO
09-18-2002, 01:54 PM
OK, HERE IS THE PIC OF THE T-MAXX TWIN ENGINE.
THIS IS ENSANE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
http://**************/ws/*******************************1767399451
FRANCISCO
09-18-2002, 01:58 PM
OOPS SORRY, THE PIC DIDNT WORK BUT ON E=BAY, GO AND LOOK THE ITEM NUMBER 1767399451 AND TELL ME WHAT YOU ALL THINK.
THANKS.
NewToNitro
09-19-2002, 02:08 PM
Hey im about to put my maxx up for sale in the next couple of weeks...I need some help on priceing. It doesnt have an engine. Im selling it Rolling chassis with the radio.
HOP UPS:
Pro-Line Suspension
Forward only conversion
4 bodies including the stock body...3 are painted 1 is still new in package
RPM Bumpers
RPM Skids
What would be a good asking price? Thanks in advance
racer13
09-20-2002, 01:12 AM
Hey, i'm looking for a t-maxx in your perspectives, ill trade you a xxx-s?? w/ extras..
But any whoo.. im going to be selling my electrics to buy a t-maxx.. im looking for the crappiest thing out there, i don't care much.. just want something cheap. Here's the list i have for what i'd put on it...
XTM .21 conversion "red"
Ofna hyper .21 w/ pullstart
Pro-line suspension
Big bore shocks w/ piggy back resovores
hardcore racing aluminum tranny
2 speed tranny " or 3 speed "
Robinson gears
titanium front/back shock towers
take out reverse
take out front wheel drive parts
paddle's for back
full role cage powercoated red
front/rear bumpers alumium or steel, whatever i want. =]
upgraded servo's
futaba 3pj "pcm"
alumium servo cover
aluminum receiver cover
bigger gas tank *if they make them..*
skid plates.
and a HOLE lotta skill to not crash it =P
Tell me if there is any thing else that i need to add to my list that might be helpful... :) and i know i wont be able to do this within a short period of time.. so its gonna take a while.
SixVi6
09-20-2002, 07:12 PM
Just curious as to why make it RWD? when I scattered the front diff in my maxx I ran mine RWD and it stank. It never got traction and was impossible to have any fun with.
Hardcore racing only makes tranny cases. so you will need some other trans internals because stock won't cut it and why not an XTM 24.7? IMO 24.7's are way more powerfull than a hyper. I've went from a hyper .21 to a 24.7 and the 24.7 wins hands down.
Also plan on getting proline CVD's for that proline suspension. the XTM CVD's work only with stock maxx arms.
John
racer13
09-21-2002, 01:03 AM
i was accually thinking of getting the Supermaxx suspension.. it has the thick alumium a-arms, etc etc.. comes with every thing, including the CVD's, and the 24.7 motor does sound bettter. i was also thinking of getting the Cvec pipe and the the cvec manafold kit on it.. i think it looks better and would keep my chassis less crowded and less dirt/grim on it..
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/pics/cvectm03.jpg
racer13
09-21-2002, 01:19 AM
Here's the supermaxx suspension.. and yeah.. i'll prolly keep the 4wd, but take out reverse.. i dont want to have to deal with the extra servo.. etc..
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/pics/ueextst3.jpg