Traxxas T-Maxx Forum v1.0

[OFNA freak]

Just post questions or anything about the T-Maxx! :D

[blegris]

I think everyone is out driving and having fun with their T-Maxx, thats why there isn't anyone answering! :D

[ammoace]

I have a question. Why is my T engine so hard to tune after adding the MIP Stinger? I got it to run well the day I installed the new exhaust system but it hasn't run right since. It doesn't want to start and when it does start it cuts out when I try to drive it beyond 1/2 throttle. I know it has to do with mixture but man I just can't seem to find the correct settings. :mad:
AMMOACE
By the way, T-Maxx is AWESOME!

[ProjectTwin]

Ace, When you're done running, tip the truck up on it's rear, to allow any unburnt oil to drain out the Stinger tip, not down the header into the engine....Imagine trying to start with all that oil in the crankcase?

[ammoace]

Project Twin you are the MAN! I gave you 5 stars before and here is a great big smiley! :D

Thanks for your help, AGAIN,
AMMOACE

[ProjectTwin]

So....that was you Grrr... :p

:D

Jason

[SteveP]

Uhmmmm J, five stars was a good rating.... :D

[TRXboy]

Ok I have been asking this question for a while but maby you guys could help me-i want some alumnim skids-lower braces

so far i have rockhoundz skids and an RC alloys center skid
Now what lower-i like rix gear but im not shure.

[ProjectTwin]

Rix for sure...they're unbreakable!

Steve, as for the last post..can't we get a sarcasm script done up?

I even have the button ready...

LOL

Jason

[ 05-01-2001: Message edited by: ProjectTwin ]

[OFNA freak]

My T-Maxx fidgets when I acellerate(think I spelled it wrong) but I'm used to it so I'll leave it like that. :D

[jeepdude_1]

Hay guys, I put A cv 15 on my maxx should I go with A diffrent gear on my clutch bell and if so what???

[TRXboy]

Jeepdude- Try down gearing it to an 18 tooth cluch bell- much more responsive- you will need to pick up new bearings and ajust the shift point how ever.

Ofnafreak- How old is your T-maxx- Normaly with new T-maxx's the Tranny has to be broken in- after about a gallon it should stop- if it dosent- lean out the low end a little- the T-maxx Tranny works on rev's and if the engine dosent get enough rev's the internel cluch in the tranny sorta grips then slips until it gets to higher RPMS.

[chucksolo]

Has anyone else ever run PowerMaster Premium Blend 15% nitro 18% oil in their T-Maxx? I did today and it seems to run pretty good. I have the high speed needle 2.25 turns out and the engine runs pretty cool.

[Ultimaxx]

I have also ordered the Stinger kit for my T-maxx which way do you have to turn the needles to make it run good again? Rich or lean.

I use Klotz lubricants XP fuel 10 - 20% nitro with 75% syn and 25% cas and 20% oil. this is good in my T-maxx and I also have a mip clutch set-up on the heavy side and I use some blue thunder fuel??

I can't wait untill my parts get here. then I will have a better looking maxx
C-ya ppl :confused: :)

[BIG-J]

What's everyone using for engines? Do you like the choice you made and why?

Also, what is the lowest gearing available for the T-Maxx?

Finally, has anyone tried the 3-speed convertion? Like or Dislike? I'm surprised it hasn't had more hype is my reason behind asking.

-J

[ammoace]

Maxxattack650,
Just to get it to start after installation I had to lean it out a little. To get it to idle I had to mess with the low end needle and the idle screw.
I am still trying to fine tune it but my glow plug has died. Be real careful with the gasket. Mine was a little tweaked and probably should be replaced.
Hope that answers your question. Just remember that not all engines are created equal so you may or may not have to adjust yours as much as I have. Best of luck,
AMMOACE

[RC BLAZE]

Does anyone know were I can order the Stinger Kit for the Tmaxx that doesn't have a backorder on this part?

[nOnAnmE]

I finished Break in the truck Saturday night and it's works well. Sunday I installed the stinger pipe and everything mess up. The truck quits and bogs , i read some forums and i checked the low speed mexture
and never find to start then truck again. I put the original settings and was the same.


PLEASE HELLLLP MEEEE!!!! :confused:

[Smitty]

I know this has been asked before, but is there any other 125cc fuel tank that will fit the maxx? Because my LHS and Towerhobbies are backorderd for a while. Thanks.

[ammoace]

nOnAnmE,
Here are the steps I took to get my truck to run after adding the stinger. Some of what I list is going to be very basic info so just bare with me.
1. Make sure the the glow plug is working very well. I had to buy a new one.
2. I use an external glow igniter so if you do make sure it is Fully charged.
3. Make sure the reciever and transmitter batteries are fully charged or new.
4. Set the needle to the factory settings, good luck with the lowend needle if you haven't flipped the carb yet. :)
5. Prime the engine, hopefully you have removed the primer pump from the gas tank because it can be a major source of an air leak. If not and you want to then check the Jan 01 issue of RCCA mag.
6. With the throttle trim turned towards high (you are going to need three hands as it is), the plug hot and the engine primed crank the motor a couple seconds. If it doesn't fire then lean the high speed needle 1/8th of a turn. Repeat this if the engine seems to be getting close to starting. If you think it isn't helping you may have to enrichen the engine instead but I highly doubt it. I did these adjustments on a bench and on my home made Maxx stand so that the truck couldn't run off on me.
7. Once the engine fires play with the throttle until the engine warms up to normal operating temp.
8. Now that it is running set the throttle trim back to neutral. Start fine tuning the high end needle until it seems to run well on the stand. Don't worry about it being perfect as long as it isn't too lean.
9. After playing with the High end I bet you had to refuel, I did. Now get it running and warmed up to op temp again. Make sure the idle screw is adjusted correctly. Then with the engine running as close to idle as possible adjust the low end needle until it idles with the throttle trim set to normal. You will problably have to start the engine a few times before you get it to idle smoothly.
NOTE Make all adjustments to the low end needle very slowly giving the carb a chance to catch up. I noticed that when you adjust the low end needle there is a tiny bit of lag time before the engine reacts to the change. About a second or two should be enough time.
10. Happy trails because this should get the truck started and running enough for you to fine tune it to your operating conditions.
Hope this helped,
Jerry

Email me if you need more help.

[ 06-12-2001: Message edited by: ammoace ]

[nitroracer911]

FYI to anyone....

I took my baffle out of my T-Maxx a couple of nights ago. The monster had more power and top end... but I forgot to richen up the setting a little. I ran it lean all day Saturday... When you take that sucker out it lets the engine run and breath a little better which can result in higher temps...

whoops... I hope I did not damage my engine.

:rolleyes:

[Big Wig]

BIG-J,

I run an HPI Nitro Star SS .15 in my Maxx and it flat rips! With an 18t clutch bell it will smoke a stock Maxx with stock gearing big time and the thing just barks!

The only complaint I have with this engine is the idle screw is WAY too close to the carb venturi and it's impossible to get a wire tie around the air filter boot. I may switch to an OS carb.

I also took off my MIP Stinger and installed a C-Vek pipe. The engine is 10 times easier to tune now and is much more dependable. I am a beginner with nitro so I'm not saying there's anything wrong with the MIP product, it could just be my mediocre tuning skills ;)

[nitroracer911]

i have read on this forum that the stinger on a Max makes it a little more difficult to tune the engine :p

For that reason I think I am going to stick with the stock pipe.

[nitroracer911]

:p

[ammoace]

I don't think the MIP Stinger is flawed. The quality of the parts and their fit is great. It just catches a lot of people, myself included, off guard at the ammount of retuning of the engine it requires after installation. The Stinger itself works as advertised and the rear exhaust is cool. People like Project Twin has not had nay trouble with his, at least he didn't mention having any touble with it. If I had it to do all over again I would have gotten a C-Vec rear exhaust instead. But no matter what pipe you buy that isn't stock you most likely will have to re-tune the engine since you are changing the dynamics of how it operates.
Jerry

[nOnAnmE]

thanx ammoace.. everything is working again and with more power

:p

[ammoace]

I'm glad I could help. Too bad I had to learn the hardway. :D :D
Best of luck,
Jerry

[ammoace]

The stock TRX Pro .15, how did you blow one up?
Jerry

[RC10GTMark]

I find that stock .15 is impossible to keep tuned. Every day I drive my truck I have to retune it first.. pain in the but.

[ammoace]

Mark,
That usually is due to changing in weather conditions. Changing Humidity, tempature, and the included cheap Carb are most likely the reason for the need to re-tune your engine. I too have to re-tune when I run the truck about every third or fourth run. Vibration may have something to do with this as well but I can't be sure. But I doubt I have told you anything that you didn't already know. :D
Jerry

[CBlakeNS]

Ammoce---I blew it up racing at my lhs cause everyone was too lazy 2 wet the track and I was going to get the hose to do it and everyone held me back cause it would hold them up from starting and with the stock air filter it doesnt cut it and with all the dust it just blew it up!

[ammoace]

Bummer, have you changed to a better filter now?
Jerry

[CBlakeNS]

What engine is everyone running im running the stock engine although I blew up the first one hehe!

[CBlakeNS]

Yes I have a motor saver!

[CBlakeNS]

Its the best air filter ive seen!

[user_name?]

my dad justs got a t maxx, those things are awsome!!!!!!!!! he dosent let me drive it very much thow :( , but oh well i am guna buy one for me :D :D !!!!!!!!!! i want to know what are some parts that brake,like spur gears and such, because the only hobbie shop is 2 hours away, and where guna make a trip up there on tuesday. :)

[CBlakeNS]

The t maxx is unbelievably tough to break parts in it the only thing I would do is get lots of full and spur gears and glow plugs that is all I would do ive had my maxx about a year and the only thing that ive broke or blwon on it was 2 spur gears and my first trx engine!

[CBlakeNS]

Oh yea get a motor saver air filter!! There like 15 or 20 bucks and worth the money!

[ammoace]

I can't say this enough, RPM A-Arms are the first thing I would buy before the stock arms break. Then I would get an extra one-way bearing because they require a lot of cleaning. And third an extra set of Starter gears.
List of stuff to upgrade as time and money permits;
External (non-blue wire) glow igniter
After run oil
Motor saver engine filter
Ti turnbuckles
Ti Hindge pins
Ti Skid plates
Associated or Traxxas Aluminum teflon coated shocks
Center skid plate (aluminum or Ti)
Aluminum bulkheads
Aluminum diff cases
Steel dif gears
Lots of extra screws for the skid plates
45 - 50wt shock oil
Stiff springs
102oz/torque or stronger steering servo
Kinmbrough heavy duty servo saver
These are just to make a strong truck stronger and aren't neccesities. Also learn from your dad's misfortunes, if any, and see if he has any trouble with parts breaking.
Jerry

[CBlakeNS]

Any other questions guys?

[user_name?]

thanks alot guys!!! well i got my maxx and i love it :D :D :D :D
i am very inpresed with it it will climb allmost any thing it jumps awsome and it goes pretty fast for how heavy it is.

i am 15 and now i have 1000$ in to r\c :eek:
i have a ftgt and my maxx, and all the stuff to keep them running.

[foddermech]

lol Edwards. just $1000?? well don't worry, give it some time and you will have about twice that in rc10gt parts alone :) Anyhow, hi everyone, I just rigged up my t-maxx and am finishing in the break in. I'm in Michigan for a wedding this weekind so I think I'll just find a track and stop in saturday for a first shot at monster trucking. I've been racing an Associated ft gt for a few months and love it, but I gotta say this maxx is quickly winning my heart. I hope to see some regulated ROAR racing soon... (that might help keep the mod costs down :) Has anyone tried balooning there shocks yet, we run a wet track and I'd like to figure a good way to keep my shocks stroking longer...

[CBlakeNS]

Cool Edwards im almost at 1800 on my t maxx lol!!

[ammoace]

Well lets see I have about $200 invested in my T-Maxx not including the original purchase cost. I have only changed things like the A-Arms, MIP Stinger, and some other misc. parts. I like the look of aluminum but the plastic parts work well. Besides if it aint broke I can't afford to fix it. ;)
Jerry

[CBlakeNS]

LOL!! Alot of those parts I have I had to work very hard with my dad to earn!!

[nitrocam3]

I am kind of new to this forum but it seems like you guys already had a big discussion on the stinger pipe now I am doubting putting one on I already have I just got to install it.Other that the problems you guys have experienced what are the performance gains that you have gotten? Thanks and this forum is looking pretty good now all we need is some pics of your guys truck to spice it up a bit and bragg a little.Thanks for any info and I will also try to respond to any questions?nitrocam3 :D

[RC10GTMark]

Hey if your running the stock traxxas carb, slap an associated carb on there.

I put the new carb on the tmaxx today and I haven't had to retune it, AT ALL. It gave it loads more power too. You have to turn the carb away from the easy start and slightly bend the linkage but once you get it implace it works well.

I must modification IMHO

[ammoace]

nitrocam3
The only noticable advantage would be the low end grunt it can produce. Don't expect it to smoke tires off the line or ride a wheelie until it shifts into second gear but it does give a slight boost in low end performance. Is it enough to justify the $38.95? That is up to you to decide, for me no not really. I could have done the same thing with a simple clutch-bell change. Or a spur and Clutch-bell change. Smaller clutch-bell and larger spur should give the same low-end improvement. I think the 18 tooth clutch bell would produce the same effect but I have NOT tried it yet. Either way the stock pipe is junk and needed to be replaced. Mine leaked all the time and the baffle just needs to be thrown in the trash if you want any resemblance of efficiency.
These are just my thoughts and are untested as far as the changing of the gears are concerned.
Mark,
Yes the traxxas carb seems to be more of a hinderance then an asset. I have heard of people using OS carbs and the tuning problems go away just like what you have experienced by using an Associated carb. Just for the record the 10E or 10A is the OS carb I have heard of people using. Which carb are you using?
Jerry

[nitrocam3]

Thank you for the info.Does anyone have pics of your truck I know you guys have some sick rides and this would be the place too show it off, come on. :D nitrocam3

[ProjectTwin]

One thing I didn't see listed to get with the new T-Maxx is a fuel filter. Also, if you're going to buy MotorSavers...make sure you get the right diameter filter for your carb. Measure it first!

There are a couple of other things to help you with a stock T.

First, flip that carb! Flipping your carb does two things for you. One is moving that high-end needle towards the center of the truck, helping prevent it from a good roll-over or worse, a T-Bone! :eek: Second thing it'll do for you is give you acess to your low end needle.

Other than the filters, a good first upgrade would be an Associated pipe or the MIP Stinger. The stock plastic pipe can loosen and cause your engine to run like it's got a 1/2 pound or so of mud in it.. :(

...and above all......be patient!

;)

Jason

[chucksolo]

I think I have come up with a way to cool the engine down on my T-Maxx. I went to Radio Shack and bought a computer CPU cooling fan (12V) and wired it up to a 9v battery and slide switch and placed the fan on the roof of the body with servo tape as close to the engine heat sink as I could. The switch came with mounting screws so I cut a slot in the roof also and screwed the switch down to the roof. The fan worked great and cooled the engine down about 10 degrees (according to my MIP onboard temp guage). I believe it would have cooled down even more if I could move the stock air cleaner out of the way. Another problem is that the fan drains the 9v battery after about 30 minutes. If anyone has a way to get 12v to the fan, as lightly as possible, I am open to suggestions. Total cost was about 20 bucks.

[CBlakeNS]

Im not sure how you would get a 12 volt to the fan but get the moter saver air filer that has the extention and will get the air filter off your engine and it will cool it down!! Good luck!

[user_name?]

i have a problem boteming out off jumps what would be a good suspencion set up for the t maxx? what would diffrent shocks do? :confused:

[ammoace]

ProjectTwin,
I can't beleive I didn't mention getting a fuel filter. That actually was the very first hop-up that I bought for my truck. And yes it is a hop-up because it gives the engine a chance to survive. ;)
Edwards,
Get the Trinity Monster Springs in the listed in the July 2001 4x4 column. I would am going to get the Black extra heavy springs. Also try a heavier shock oil. I wouldn't go any thinner than 45wt. 45 - 55wt oil seems to be a real good setup for the T-Maxx. I have 70wt in my tool box but I am going to hold off on using in until I get 6 more Big Bore aluminum shocks. I am affraid the plastic shocks would pop a top under compression with that thick of oil inside after a hard landing. I have two of the Traxxas Big Bore xx-long teflon coated shocks on the front of my T-Maxx and as time and money permit the other six plastic shocks will be replaced in pairs. The reason I replaced two shocks instead of the entire set is that two of the plastic ones where leaking and I decided to upgrade them on an as needed basis. Necessity is the mother of invention, but so is boredom. ;)
Jerry

[CBlakeNS]

I have to replace my dag on clutch after today of driving..

[ammoace]

Your clutch burnt out after only one day of driving? How many tanks did you run in that day? I must be the luckiest Maxx owner of them all, I have not had to replace anything that I didn't break, except the ez-start gears.
Jerry

[CBlakeNS]

I think it is the burnt clutch shoes . . . I drove lots of tanks through it but ive had it for like 1 1/2 years though!

[ammoace]

Ohhhh, I thought it burnt out in only one day of driving. I guess a year and a half on one clutch is pretty darn good. :)
Jerry

[CBlakeNS]

Jerry---lol the t maxx has served me well!!!

[ammoace]

You know as much trouble it seems that I have had with it the truck actually has been awesome. I have had some trouble with it but nothing that really has earned the truck a bad reputation. To be totally honest I beat the living daylights out of the truck and it keeps on taking it. Any broken parts have been as a result of my pitiful driving or because I made the mistake of thinking "I wonder what happens if I do this?". :eek:
Jerry

[CBlakeNS]

I agree with you I mean I litterly beat my tmaxx as hard as I can drving it havent really broke any parts . . . and it hasnt cost me much at all if I did strip something or whatever! The worst thing was I blew of the engine!

[ammoace]

It is funny how a lot of Maxx owners don't drive, run, or race thier trucks. They usually use a simular term to "beat on" when describing how they "operate" thier trucks. I bought the truck because I was lead to beleive that it was "virtually indestructable". It isn't but it can really take some abuse. But then again Traxxas doesn't seem to be making junk these days. I would love to own a Stampede or Rustler someday to see for myself how good these trucks are. Oh, and the 1/6th scale buggy, if memory serves me correct it is called the "Monster Buggy" looks like it would be great to own and beat on.
Jerry

[CBlakeNS]

I would like to own a traxxas nitro sport or a stampede . . Ive heard they are great cars . . and if they are like the t maxx that is exactly what they are!!! Ive raced my tmaxx once . . but most tracks arent set up for the t maxx to race . . For a t maxx race track you need lots of jumps and not as many turns!!!

[ammoace]

Blake,
All things equal which would you choose, the T-Maxx or the E-Maxx? I think if I had to do it all over again I would have waited for the E-Maxx. But if I had I probably would be saying just the opposite. ;)
Jerry

[rims']

I'm hooked. my friend let me drive his brand new t-maxx! that was a BIG!!! mistake because i didnt want to give it back. i love that truck. i'm saving up for mine i dont care how long it takes i gotta get one!!!

[The Real Maxxter]

I loved my T-Maxx, but I love my E-Maxx even more. I'm not trying to bash on the T, it's awesome, I just like the way my E-Maxx drives a little better. MOSNTER TORQUE baby!

[Smitty]

Even though I love the sound of nitro, It's alot more work than a electric. I think I would've gotten an E-maxx instead of a T-maxx because its mounds of tourqe (for racing and bashing) and its almost unlimited power upgrades. Not going fast enough? Just buy new, lower turn motors.

[CBlakeNS]

Jerry,

I think I would be saying the opposite to if I had a e maxx but they only reason I wont ever get electric is because of the run time . . . I like nitro because you can get long run times!! . . .Warhawk--- Yes it is a great truck to bash around and even race . . . YOu will enjoy it!! Smitty--- I am gonna stick with nitro because like I said I like the long run times!! In the car action mag they did a shootout between the t maxx and the e maxx and if I remember correctly the e maxx had little more power but the t maxx was better overall!

Blake

[user_name?]

are traxxas big bore shocks any good? are they worth the money?and is 45 wt shock oil an ok wt for big bore shocks?

[CBlakeNS]

Edward

Yes, they are great shocks I would get 50 wt oil but that is my opinion . . . Go for them there awsome!!

[rims']

you t-maxx guys rule!!!!

[CBlakeNS]

Thanks dude...... YOu need to get one!! There addictive I have a little over 1 k in mine!!!

[CBlakeNS]

Finally a buddy of mine that live near me got a rc . . . its about time he has been waiting for like 3 years but he wanted electric I talked him into NITRO!! He got a 4 tec!

[ammoace]

What's up folks? I just got back in town so it is time to play catch up.
Edwards,
I run 45wt oil in all of my T-Maxx shocks. You might try to use thicker oil if you are thinking of trying for BIG air.
Well I need to get to work on my T-Maxx. I have parked it for a while due to a leaking exhaust gasket. I picked up a new one in San Antonio this week but forgot to buy fuel. Oh well, My LHS sells nitro, when he has it in stock, cheaper then what the LHS in SA sells it.

Like a bad dream, I just keep coming back to haunt this BB.
JerryL

[ammoace]

I pay about $15 a gallon for Nitro, Byrons 10%. What have you guys been paying for a gallon of Nitro? I just want to make sure that I am not paying more then I need to. I prefer the Trinty Monster Horsepower 10% but my LHS doesn't sell it by the gallon, just by the quart. I have been thinking about going to 20% for my T-Maxx. But I read, I think it was in the instructions for the T, that the nitro content you use to break in the engine should be the nitro content you use after breakin. T-Maxx is my first and probably my last Nitro vehicle so if this is correct or not let me know.
Thanks,
Jerry

[Smitty]

I believe its allright to switch fuels as long as you give the engine some time to adjust, like a mini break in. Different fuels work at different temps. and the piston/sleeve needs to adjust.
Oh yea I want to know if any of you guys race you t-maxx and if you've tried the RPM 2 stage pistons. How do they work in the
T-maxx? What other hop-ups mods have you made?(for racing)
Oh yea, 20% Blue Thunder Regular Formula costs $25 dolars a gallon at my LHS

[ 07-07-2001: Message edited by: Smitty ]

[CBlakeNS]

Jerry,

I run 20% nitro blue thunder and it cost me 26 bucks at one of my lhs that is real close to me like 10 minutes away . . . At the lhs farther and better then the one closer to me its a little cheaper I think . . . I hope that all made since!!!

Blake

[CBlakeNS]

Jerry,

Hopefully you had fun . . . . Have fun working on your tmaxx!

[user_name?]

i am haveing a littel engine trobbles, i started my motor to day and when i was runing it it would run fine until i got to the top end it would stall and some times die even after it was all wormed up, so whats wrong? :confused:

[CBlakeNS]

Would it rev up and shut down or would it bog and shut down if it revs up and shut down your running to lean richen it if it bogs down and shuts off you running to rich lean it a bit . . I think I got that right I always get confused ;-)!!


Lean= right

Rich= left

[user_name?]

[ 07-08-2001: Message edited by: Edwards ]

[StephenB]

Edward, sounds like your engine is too lean...i.e. too hot. Richen it up as CBlake said. Try turning the top-end needle to the left 1/2 a turn & see if it helps performance.

[ammoace]

Smitty,
Thanks for the advise on the mini break in. If I change nitro content I'll do just that. As far as hop ups for racing the RPM A-Arms would be the first ones that I would do. The Pro-Line Bow-ties might be a good change as well with some low-roll foam inserts. Keep in mind I don't race but in theory these hop ups should work well. Have you read the 3 Maxxed out Maxxs article? If not they have a maxx that they set-up for racing. Granted a lot more "racing" products for the Maxx trucks have come out. Panther Tires, Pro-Line, RPM, Hardcore, and others are producing a lot of race quality items for the Maxx trucks. As far as the two stage pistons I realy can't help there.
Hope I helped a little bit.
Jerry

[CBlakeNS]

Hey guys

My frend was wondering how supermaxx suspention was I told him all supermaxx stuff is AWSOME . . . He was like ok but still ask so I will copy and paste and e mail it to him just so he knows I was telling him the truth anywasy thanks

Blake

[ammoace]

Blake,
I think ProjectTwin is running thier suspension so he would be the one to ask. Shoot him a private message or an email. Then if you don't mind post his comments here good, bad or ugly. ;)
Jerry

[nitroracer911]

FYI....
I run my T with four of my friends who also have Maxxes. Last weekend we went through 4 spur gears (only $3 a pop). We finally figured out why. We were jumping them so hard it was shifting the engine ever so slightly. When there was not enough bite between the Spur and the clutch bell gear... it simply stripped out. Anywho... If you are doing serious bashing... check the space between the two gears after bashing around awhile.

This is what it's all about:

http://www.schoolplanet.com/images/t_maxx.jpg :cool:

[chucksolo]

Great picture NitroRacer911, it looks like a Traxxas ad!!! Is that a Nitro Rustler or a Sport? I run my Maxx and Nitro Rustler with a couple of Duratrax Quakes and Max Sts and we have a blast. There is nothing like 5 or 6 screaming MTs & Sts on a BMX track all trying to pass each other. Talk about RC fun!!!!!

[nitroracer911]

chucksolo...

That is a CEN 4WD Stadium truck on the far left.

There is one Maxx that did not make it into the picture.... Out of Four Maxxes... Two made it out alive... the other two took a jump that was unbelievable... little bit of damage to say the least.

;)

[chucksolo]

Wow, a CEN, I have heard and read good things about them. Looks like it will out drag and out handle the Maxxs though. How is it against the MTs? Anyway, looks like you guys have a blast.

[nitroracer911]

I am not sure about how it would hold up against other cars in its class. It does have a .16 CEN engine in it that has strong power and is very reliable. We bash them pretty hard and they just keep on going.
Here is how my friend treats his and it still runs great:
http://www.schoolplanet.com/images/last_run.jpg :eek:

[chucksolo]

The only other 4WD ST I can think of is the HPI NMT. I think the Shumacher is 2WD as are the LOSI, AE, and Traxxas NRustler. It looks like it is fun to drive.

[ammoace]

Ok you guys where is this picture you are talking about. I checked all four pages and didn't see one. Can you share this pic with me? I love looking at other peoples rides. Email it if you can't post it please. Ohh wait now I see where it is supposed to be. But a little red X is there now.
Later,
Jerry

[user_name?]

any one flip your carb? is it a good thing to do?

[nitroracer911]

Ammo.... errr ... Jerry

try and refresh the page... maybe that will work???? :confused:

[CBlakeNS]

Edward---Yes it is fine to do its a whole lot easier to get to your low end needle . . I did it take a few minutes and your done!! Go for it!! Anyways hows everyone doing?? Just got back from a 3 day vacation to water parks and all that good stuff . . . Just trying to catch up!!!

[ammoace]

It works now, man I hate computers. Or is it that they hate me? :p
Is that thing sitting in water? And to think I cringe when I oops and drive through a little mud puddle.
I have flipped my carb and it made tuning the carb a ton easier. I kicked myself for not doing it a long time ago. :)
Jerry

[user_name?]

ok thanks blake, so how many forums do you visit reguraly? i have seen you at the maxxtraxx to

[CBlakeNS]

Edward---Right now im on 4 forums . .Its alot to keep up with but I manage it! Im on the computer alot anyways so I go to each forum often!

[nitroracer911]

sorry for the late reply Jerry...

Yes... that picture (9 or 10 post above this one) IS sitting in water. The owner will not clean it nor put WD-40 on it either. It will just sit in his garage until we run next.

Pretty funny.... Last week we went to get it out of his garage and a family of SPIDERS had taking up homestead in the wheels and in the chasis... pretty discusting. The thing (CEN) started right up on the second pull. Took those spiders for a ride they will never forget... :D

I am happy to say he does not treat his T-Maxx like that. But I do give him a hard time about treating his CEN like that.

-later

[ 07-16-2001: Message edited by: nitroracer911 ]

[ammoace]

Well as long as it isn't my money that is getting soaked so be it.
Later,
Jerry

[ammoace]

Has anyone bent a header, on purpose, to re-route it? I was told to heat it up but not what to use to bend it. I want to make my MIP stinger header go on the outside of the body post so it doesn't block access to the ez-start anymore.
Just fishing for ideas,
Jerry

[ProjectTwin]

Actually, I bent one of mine, but didn't heat it, I just clamped the flange that bolts to the engine in a vice with flat jaws (no teeth) and inserted the end of a ratchet handle into the header. With a little pressure, it complied. The stock T headers are soft ayway, it doesn't take much to coax them into moving for you.

Jason

[ProjectTwin]

I just read page 4 of the forum...I saw the post about the Supermaxx Suspension. One word: outstanding! Supermaxx is the single best upgrade I've ever made to a vehicle. As a matter of fact, any T-Maxx (or Monster Pirate) I own, will be running Supermaxx parts. Arms are 7075 T-6, you have (on my early production parts) 24 different mounting posistions per shock...ALL of your arms, knuckles, towers and toe links are replaced by this kit....And the beauty of it is, you also get improved suspension geometry. Look on my site for a brief review of the Supermaxx stuff. I did that before I actually got the chance to take the Twin out and bash on it, but now that I've put a gallon through it, I need to update the review.

Here's a neat trick it has...

During the last 15 or so % of suspension travel (say, in a hard left turn), as the outside (right) front suspension compresses, in that last 15%, the wheel will toe out a hair, helping increase stability. I witnessed this on asphalt. The truck would lift the inside rear tire and then, as if on cue, the tire would "plop" back to the ground. I mangled a servosaver trying to flip the truck on asphalt.

If you look at the videos on my site, you'll see some speed runs I did here in Korea for Korea R/C Monthly. The last video under photo shoot shows the one time I managed to flip the truck with Supermaxx suspension. You'd never be able to push a stock T that hard with stock suspension at the same ride height. Incredible stuff.

Jason

[ammoace]

Thanks Jason for the info. I don't plan on using the stock T header though. I want to still use the MIP header. Hopefully it will bend just as easy as the stock header. Supermaxx needs to start paying you. ;)
Jerry

[ProjectTwin]

LOL@Jerry. They're terrific parts man...

The MIP header is actually very hard. Say..steel...lol. It'll take a bit of creative manipulation to work things out.

(Here I go again...)
On the Supermaxx towers, I had no clearance probs. :D


Jason

[CBlakeNS]

Hey guys,

Just got my motersaver (Finally) Its so awsome! I love it it was really worth the money!!Anyways . . Just tellin ya . . GET ONE!!

[ammoace]

Jason,
Well I clamped the header into my vise and then used a large screwdriver down the pipe end and with some effort the pipe bent. Unfortunately the flange got a little marred when it slipped. The good news is, you can only see the marks from the underside of the truck. I figure that after the engine heats and cools the header a couple of times the marks will no longer be visable.
But I wanted to say that the pipe fits a lot better on the outside of the posts and tucks in under the little flare on the body above the wheel well. Another plus is that I was able to lower the body down one notch/hole. I should take a picture of the body so you guys could see how beat up it is. It has a hole in the passenger side door and rocker panel from when I rotated the stock pipe to exhaust out the side. It has severe road rash on the roof, all four corners, and the hood. A hole wore through the rear drivers side corner of the bed, the hole where the tank and head pook through both have severe cracks, and the holes I made to allow air to get to the motor have had to be widened to due to cracks. Yet the chassis and other parts are relatively unscathed. Oh, I almost forgot to mention that more paint has chipped off then is left on the body.
Jerry

[crazy1]

Has any one tried one of the after market heads / heatsinks for the original T-Maxx engine? Do they realy keep the engine cooler?

[CBlakeNS]

Yes they cool the engine down a little but also a air filter extension if you have a aftermarket air filter the air filter extention will cool the engine down a little too.

[ammoace]

Well I got to run my T-Maxx after two months of it sitting on the bench. Man did I have fun running T all over the yard. Of course it took a full tank of gas to get it tuned again and then I ran another tank through it before I over heated. It is just too darn hot here so I have to wait for the sun to start going down or get up really early before it gets too hot. The neighborhood is safe nor more, T-Maxx is on a terror again. :D
Jerry

[ProjectTwin]

There's just something about nitro powered vehicles. They can run like crap, not run, be broken, and once you get it runnin again, it's all worth it.

Guys and their hobbies... :)

Jason

[CBlakeNS]

Jason ---I agree with you and Jerry---Glad you had fun and got it up and running!

[StephenB]

Agreed Jason---nothin's better than a day spent burning ~1/2 gallon of fuel through a nitro car or truck :)

[Zero Gravity]

4WS Any one know a relatively easy and inexpensive way to add four wheel stering to a T-Maxx?? Any ideas greatly appreciated.

[TRXboy]

I remeber a good year ago some guy put 4 wheel steering, it was way to tipsy and there was no servo saver strong enough to keep the rear wheels tracking strait when getting up to higher speeds, your better off sticking with the stock set up....Yes TRX does have a T... :p

[CBlakeNS]

Ahh my moms lap top the comp that I get online with is being sent away. This stinks I wont be back on for like a week and I will have lots of checking up to do . . . Anyways maybe she can get somebody localy to do whatever she is doing. Anyways just saying. Im not positive when its gonna get shipped away.

[ammoace]

There were pics of a 4WS T on the T-Maxx site where they post the owners rides and testimonials. But good luck finding it, the last time I was in that part of thier site it was massive. They also had a guys T-Maxx that he made an E-Maxx before the E-Maxx was released.
Later,
Jerry

[TRXboy]

Yes that would be sofasticantseeit with the e-maxx origenal.

[ammoace]

Well at least I'm not the only one that has seen the "project" E-Maxx. I think that the guy that made the 4WS version had two front suspensions and a servo mounted between the bumper mounts. I couldn't tell you how he ran the linkage though.
Jerry

[marto94]

Hello,I'm new to the forum and I read some posts about flipping the carb on the T-Maxx.If someone could tell me a little about this I would appreciate it a lot! I have had my Maxx about 1 year now and I don't get to run it much. I have a lot trouble with bubbles in the fuel line. Can removing the primer pump help this? I've read these pumps can cause a lot of cuss fits. Thanks guys....Marto

[CBlakeNS]

Marto-- To flip the carb I think all you have to do is undo the bolt under the carb and flip it and put the bolt back on . . .When I get bubbles in my ful line I just prime it then the should all come out.


BTw---A four wheel drive steering maxx would be cool . . . Ill just stick with 2 wheel sterring though!

[ammoace]

After you flip the carb you will have to move and retrofit the throttle/brake linkages. You will have to swap the throttle and brake linkage on the servo horn too. I also flipped the brake arm.
Jerry

[ammoace]

When I flipped mine I did't put it back in at the same angle as it came out. I mounted it so that the throttle arm is slightly forward making the carb look "twisted" in the mount. This made the linkage move smoothly and I didn't have any trouble with the filter. But if you don't want to adjust the carb the filter is made where it hooks up to the carb off center. Therefore you should be able to manipulate it in a way that allows the filter to be out of the way.
Jerry

[Nitro_Rustler_15]

I'm having trouble with the throttle linkage rubbing against the airfilter and getting stuck. Whenever I hit the throttle it passes the filter but when I let off the throttle it gets stuck open and I have to hit the brakes so it idles, it's really hard to run like this, should I flip that carb? Will that help? Thanks for the replies. :D

[nitroracer911]

When you flip the carb on a Maxx you might have to bend the throttle linkage a little to keep it away from the filter. I flipped mine last night and had to bend it a tad. If you do not want to bend it... go buy a filter that has a neck on it and it will get the big bulky part away from the movement.

[ 07-30-2001: Message edited by: nitroracer911 ]

[ammoace]

Where did everyone go? :confused:
Jerry

[nitroracer911]

T-Maxx is such a great ride no one needs any help with the thing!!! I never have ANY probs with my Maxx. My stadium truck is as good as a paper weight. It is always screwing up. I think I will buy another Maxx just so I have two... no reason...

[Smitty]

I got the AE engine for my maxx, but I still need the clutch shoes, bell, flywheel, etc which I', waitin on at the LHS. I'm also usin the AE pipe. I had to move slightly to the right and I had to make a custom brace but it works good (or at least it looks good). Need the clutch stuff to run though.

[ammoace]

NR911,
Must be nice to have a R/C vehicle and not have any complaints about it. :D Of course a lot of the problems some of us have are self induced.
Maxx on dudes and dudettes,
Jerry

[crazy1]

Will the tower hobbies / DuraTrax bearings 5x8 work to replace the bushings in the stearing bellcranks.

[ammoace]

As long as the actual dimensions are 5x8x2.5mm they should work just fine. If you can get sealed bearings I would suggest them. The bellcrank isn't exactly the easiest part to get to for maintenance purposes and putting in the sealed bearings means little to no maintenance required.
Just my thoughts,
Jerry

[kkd]

Who makes a 54T spur for the T??? PLastic or metal is fine..


thanks...

[CBlakeNS]

I have been gone for awhile do to some probs with the comp or actually my comp has been gone.

[Smitty]

Sorry I haven't posted here for a while. The AE enigne is a firebreather. It goes much fast than stock and gets there quicker to. But I cant pop wheelies. As said before I have a AE engine, AE pipe, and I bought a 18 tooth clutch bell. It launches quickly but It will rarely wheelie. Should I go for the big tube header (http://www.neweramodels.com/jpeg/trm241.jpg) ?

[ammoace]

Smitty,
The big pipe should help the engine breath easier for sure. Too bad the opening that is on the engine end of the pipe isn't any larger. That would really help the engine breath easier. :D Just a reminder that if you get this header you will have to re-tune your engine.
Jerry

[CBlakeNS]

TTT

[rims']

wow i gotta get a maxx

[ammoace]

Warhawk51,
I don't think that you will be disappointed if you get one. As long as you take your time with the break-in process and the tuning of the engine. If you haven't tried nitro before it can be a little frustrating. But in no time you will be ejoying the power, sound and awesome run times that Nitro can provide.
Later,
Jerry

[rims']

i went to the lhs today and saw an emaxx is it me or is it smaller than the t maxx??

[nitroracer911]

War.... same size. T looks larger cuz it's got more innards....

I BOUGHT A MIP STINGER PIPE FOR MY MAXX LAST NIGHT!!!!!

It sounds SOOOOOOO COOOOOL!!!!! :cool:

[rims']

well i went back and put a t-maxx and an e-maxx togather they are thew same size but the front shocks on thre e-maxx were lower making it appeer to be smaller

[draggerman11]

Well, I will be getting a T-maxx. Either when I get enough cash(All I got is 150$ now) or for Christmas. Now,I have driven one, very fun :D Does the Pro 15 have any carb restrictions? If so, can you take them off? And also, what tuned pipe do you reccomend for this beast? Do any of you guys have any experience with the Megatech .16 engine made for the T-maxx? Thanks guys!

[Spinner]

Have a look! (.15CV Stock head in there BTW)

http://www.sugarbowlrc.com/l.jpg

[TC3Racer]

the T-maxx is great! i have it pretty much all stock except for a dynamite tuned aluminum pipe and i re-built all 8 shocks with Losi 50WT. shock oil. the rebound is great now! i race it at my local track and its fun.

[OmegaTrac]

What are the benefits/disadvantages of taking the baffle out of the stock pipe?

[Mason Copeland]

get the mip stinger for the t dont mess with removing the baffle

[OmegaTrac]

whats the wed address for the MIP Stinger?

[ammoace]

I have the T-Maxx and removing the baffle allows the engine to "breath" easier. Thus allowing it to perform better. It is faster and has more low end at the same time since the stock pipe is pretty much a neutral pipe. Besides, when I took my pipe apart the little plastic cone was already starting to deform and wasn't really doing a decent job at decreasing the volume of the exhaust noise anyways. The convergence and divergence cones on the stock pipe try to give the engine good all around performance. Removing the baffle helps the pipe do it's job better. The MIP pipe takes away a little of the top end range and gives the truck more low end yank. The increase in low end is moderate at best. Some claim that by installing the MIP pipe they have gotten the T-Maxx to pop wheelies off the line. This has not been my experience but I tend to tune my engine so that it runs a tad rich trying to extend the life of the engine. The biggest benifit to adding the MIP pipe in my opinion isn't performance as much as adding to the cool factor. The noise level increases and so does the realism in the "Type" of noise enimating from it. It used to sound like a swarm of angry bees. Now it sounds like a swarm of angry bees on steriods. :D Some people that live two and a half blocks away from me came over because they heard the truck running and wanted to watch it run. An added bonus to this pipe is that the fuel residue in the exhaust gasses exit the rear of the truck instead of under it. This allows the rear half of the truck to stay a little bit cleaner. Which can translate to less time on the bench cleaning.
Jerry

[ammoace]

Hey T-Maxx lovers, where are you? Have all of the problems been answered? Have we all figured out how to make this sometimes difficult engine work? What is everyones most "Useful" hop-up? Is there any particular hop-up that just stands out above all the rest for your truck? The best hop-up that I have added is the RPM A-Arms. Next would have to be the Bulk head braces, and the only other hop-up would be the MIP Stinger kit. The next scheduled hop-up is changing the leaky stock shocks, 6 out of 8 shocks are stock and I am going to be replacing these with the Traxxas Big Bores. 2 shocks are already big bores so I need to match the other 6 to see any real benifit. Once the big bores are installed I will be getting a set of the Trinity Extra Heavy springs and a set of Trinity Heavy springs so that I can mix and match to fit the terrain conditions. I say terrain conditions instead of track conditions because my T-Maxx has never even seen a track yet.
Later,
Jerry

[draggerman11]

Well, I will be getting a T-maxx. Either when I get enough cash(All I got is 150$ now) or for Christmas. Now,I have driven one, very fun Does the Pro 15 have any carb restrictions? If so, can you take them off? And also, what tuned pipe do you reccomend for this beast? Do any of you guys have any experience with the Megatech .16 engine made for the T-maxx? Thanks guys!

[Pat]

IM gettina tmaxx tomorrow i cant WAIT. I love nitro and i hope it will be blast. What are some preliminary things i should do.

[ammoace]

There are no restrictors in the carb.
The first thing you need to do is check the shocks. Mine came only half filled in the front and one of the caps was loose causing it to leak when compressed. Also make sure that you go over the entire truck to make sure all the screws are tight. Some people remove the engine mounting screws and add thread lock but the screws on mine have never worked their way loose. Of course I have removed my engine many times since the original purchase and I always use thread lock on these, any metal to metal screws for that matter.
Buy a HIGH quality 10% - 20% fuel, Traxxas, Trinity, Byrons to run this engine. Pick up an extra glow plug too. FOLLOW the break in instructions to the letter. When in doubt call Traxxas, write your concerns here, or talk to your LHS. The breakin can make or break your engine. How well you do this procedure can determine how long the engine runs not to mention how well it runs.
If you have some experience with nitro you might consider removing the baffle out of the stock pipe.
As far as a good replacement pipe is concerned a lot of people will say the MIP Stinger kit. I have it but I don't swear by it. I liked the stock pipe other then the constant leaks it had after a few runs. DO NOT put any modifications on the engine until after the break in procedure is completed. The only exception to this would be to flip the carb around so that you can actually have easier access to the low end needle. If you do this you will also have to modifiy the throttle and brake linkage. The instructions for this procedure should be avaiable in this thread or in the Monster Truck Forum. A search of these two Forums should be helpfull to finding these instructions.
I hope I helped,
Jerry

[draggerman11]

Thanks Jerry. I have been researching the T for oh, a year now. So I know a thing or two(Most of what you said :p) Well, my 150 is gone. My lhs stole it, and left me with a Mini-z :D :D These things are fun! The dog loves it, loves chasing it ;) She seems to be gentle with the bighting the car though(Good thing! :eek: )

[Pat]

is bluethunder fuel a good quality fuel?

[ammoace]

I never used Blue Thunder so I can't testify to it's quality personally. Oil content is a major concern. Hobby Town USA sells it if memory serves me correctly along with a couple other fuels. Compare Blue Thunder's label against Trinity, Traxxas, and so on. Also purity of the ingrediants should be high. Byrons for example claims 99.9% purity for the Methanol they use.
Here is an example:
RACE CAR FUELS
Developed specifically for R/C Cars, RACE has a unique 60/40 blend of synthetic to castor. Available in both gallons and 1/2 gallons.
Gallons
3130032 10% RACE 1000 12%
3130026 15% RACE 1500 18%
3130037 16% RACE 1600 12%
Specified in certain IFMAR/EFRA Races
3130033 20% RACE 2000 12%
3130041 25% RACE 2500 11%
Specified in certain IFMAR/EFRA Races
3130034 30% RACE 3000 11%
1/2 Gallons
3130038 10% RACE 1000 12%
3130027 15% RACE 1500 18%
3130044 16% RACE 1600 12%
Specified in certain IFMAR/EFRA Races
3130039 20% RACE 2000 12%
3130043 25% RACE 2500 11%
3130040 30% RACE 3000 11%
Specified in certain IFMAR/EFRA Races
The first % is the Nitro content and the second % is the oil content.
No I am not connected in any way to Byrons nor do I promote it specifically. I use it because it is good and it is all my LHS swears by. I used 2 quarts of Trinity Monster Horsepower and I think, probably just my imagination, that my T-Maxx ran better with it. But Byrons is what my LHS carries so that is what I use.
Jerry

[Pat]

Well i got my tmaxx and broke it in and its a BLAST its sooo amazing.. The supension is really fun to watch as it goes down steps. Well i have a 3 day weekend and ill do some of everything.

[Coconut]

I think it a good idea to put a 1/4 inch piece of fuel tubing on the bottom outside of the shock shaft when using 40wt. and above oil to prevent the shock cap from popping off. This is for stock shocks.

[Gerwyn]

I just got my maxx today, and durin break-in it started to bog and jerk around a bit, then just died. re-started it, ran for a while, almost the whole tank, then it died again. i check my plug and it was toast, so i replaced it and contiued with break-in. anyway i've gone threw 3 plugs and maybe 2 tanks of fuel...help please :confused:

[ammoace]

If I am remembering correctly burning out glow plugs ussually means you are too lean. Fouling them out is a sign of being too rich. Please if I am wrong someone correct me. The plugs in my truck usually last for at least a full gallon. I burnt out my stock plug during break in. I then the second plug went south after a gallon or more of gas and the current plug, #3, is still going strong after a quart or so of fuel. Keep in mind that I purposly run my engine just a tiny touch rich. If it isn't trailing blue smoke just above idle it isn't my truck. :D At times I have ran it rich enough to imitate the mosquito patrol. :D :D
I have since learned that this is overkill so I run it a little leaner then that. ;)
Hope this helps,
Jerry

[Nitro_Rustler_15]

I fixed my problem with the airfilter but then I bought an RS4-2 and stole the radio outta the the T-maxx for racing season. Now I'm thinking of what I should get next for the Tmaxx I got the following in it:
Aluminum A-arms
aluminum bumpers
aluminum body mounts
aluminum braces.
All custom made. I think I have to get a better engine, I'm thinking the Megatech .16 dropin. Ne suggestions?

[DesertRacer]

Has anyone tried putting the K&B .18 in a T-Maxx? Opinion?

[CBlakeNS]

Nope havent tried that 18 . . . You guys---I wont be on as often anymore just on the weekeneds because we started school the 27 and im at school till 7 00 cause im playing school football so ill try to be on as much as I can talk to you guys later . . Have a good Labor Day Weekened.

P.S Drive your maxxs!

[Gerwyn]

man i'm just havin some bad luck with this maxx. i just went and picked up a few glow plugs, went to finish break-in, and i blew the piston rod, didn't even start, no i gotta wiat for parst unless my local hobby shop has one :mad:

[CBlakeNS]

Gerwyn---DOnt give up once you get it running you will LOVE IT!

[Gerwyn]

i didn't say i was givin up :) the 2 tanks i had it out for was sweet, even tho couldn't do much with it yet, it still rocked. i can forsee a very $$$$ time comin up :)

[ammoace]

Gerwin,
You aren't alone on the blown engine. I just fragged mine thanks to the air filter falling off and I didn't notice. Of course this was right after hammering a tree really really hard. The engine would have been fine without the filter had I not driven it through a sandy play ground so I could jump in an out of this huge hole some children dug.
Here is the list of broken parts that I found while taking the entire front end apart.
All hindge pins bent
Both bulkheads tweaked, not really broken
Front skidplate tweaked
All but screws bent except the ones that hold the steering to the skid, the ones that hold the shocks to the A-Arms and two of the ones that hold the bumper to the bumper mount.
Front dif support, the little hoop that supports the dif case at the input shaft
And of course the stupid engine. I guess now I get to get that O.S. CV-X that I wanted. :-) I'm suprised my wife doesn't blame for breaking it on purpose so that I can have a reason to hop it up. :D :D
Well time to surf the on-line stores to buy parts. I love to shop!
Jerry

[r2d2sat]

I have had my T-Maxx about a month now and have broken motor mounts, a-arms and a shock. but it still is awesome fun.
where can I get the motor saver filter I read about???

[Coconut]

Towerhobbies has them.

[ammoace]

How on earth did you break a motor mount? I've heard about a lot of different parts being broken but not the motor mounts.

So far I ordered two aluminum Diff supports and Bellcrank Kit/system from GPM from Hobby ETC. Now I need to find someone that sells the Trinity aluminum Bulkhead kit that is in the current issue of RCCA, Inside scoop. I prefer to have Ti hinge pins but I like the fact that the hinge pins are held in by set screws instead of the pesky e-clips. I am going to get the Hardcore Ti Front and Rear skidplates also. I am loving Stormer Hobbies because they carry Hardcore, Dynamite, Trinity, and Traxxas parts which are the three major ones that I am looking at. The only exception being the Bellcrank kit because it is complete with mounting hardware and bearings. And the Diff case supports because they were the only ones, that aren't red, that I could find.
Tower seems to be sold out of just about everything that I need right now.

I do need a suggestion on a replacement engine thought. I am looking at the Traxxas engine swap program because cost is an object. I really want an O.S. CVX-Hyper but if I get it then I have to replace all of the broken parts with stock parts instead of Titanium (Ti) and aluminum. One thing is for sure the hindge pins and pivot balls are going to be made of Ti instead of steel.
If any of you Editors/Admins are out there shoot me an Email with your suggestions too.
Jerry

[draggerman11]

Well, my neighboor got a Tmaxx :( Why am I sad you ask? Because now, I need to get a Monster Pirate to run his T over :D I'm still considering the T, but that is just if he doesnt hop his up. My T needs to be better than his(hehe), especially considering he thought the electric starter motor steered the wheels9Well, he's kind of ignorant in this area) He wont even tune his car! :eek: LOL. I've done everything for him :D so I think I'll be able to drive it today :D :D Anyways, have any of you guys used the Megatech .16? When I get mine, I am considering it very much. Thanks for listening to my rants :p

[ammoace]

Draggerman11,
Didn't RCCA do a review in one of the last two issues with that engine in one of the vehicles? If so I think the motor got favorable comments. I know one of the recent vehicle reviews had a larger then .15 but smaller then .21 engines and I am pretty sure it was a .16. I'm wondering if a .16 engine can outperform a mid to high end .15? But then I think you are wondering the same thing.
Later,
Jerry

[draggerman11]

They reviewed Duratraxes MT pro and ST pro with their .16 . Megatech makes a .16 that is supposed to drop right in to the Tmaxx(They made it especially for it). And yes I was wondering if it would outperform a mid to high end .15 . The engine is supposed to be really cheap( I'll find the price in a minute) Jerry, I found the specs on the Megatech .16 . It drops right in with no modifications, and, puts out 1 hp at 31,000 rpms. You can buy it here. (http://www.ahc1931.com/index.html)

EDIT: I forget to mention that it only costs $99.99 :eek:

[ 09-02-2001: Message edited by: draggerman11 ]

[draggerman11]

I have also decided to get the T, and drop in the Megatech and beat the pants off my friends. Isnt that cheap Jerry?

[DesertRacer]

Voting with the dollar

I saw the Monster Pirate pictures in the Monster Truck section. Looks like a buggy w/ big wheels. The tires look like they came off a piece of earth moving equipment. Haven’t seen a real truck that looks like this.

Ofna changes models so fast I wonder how long it will be supported and how easily it will be to get parts at a LHS (I'll be in California soon!). My weekends are valuable to me – don’t want to have to wait for weeks for a part. Think my 15-year-old Kyosho Burns has more technology and a better engine in it. Without the center differential it’s dubious that the vehicle will do well on the pavement. The Kyosho USA-1 Nitro Crusher (which is the 15 year old Burns design) looks better to me for this reason.

The T-Maxx has a great suspension, 3 differentials, two speed transmission, forward, reverse, lots and lots of part support for years, is built to be a truck, and looks great!

To beat the T-Maxx, a truck would have to have all the traits of the T-Maxx (above) and do them better.

These are the considerations that caused me to vote with my dollars this weekend. I bought a T-Maxx (mail order) plus I ordered a K&B18 for $69 (from K&B). Thought I’d try the K&B out as I always have good luck with them.

If someone would like to race buggies against my T-Maxx then I’ll just pull out my buggy. I have boats and planes that go way faster than a buggy. Speed isn't everything!

The two vehicles shouldn’t be compared. They aren’t the same. Additionally, it’s okay to have own a Monster Pirate and think that’s great. There’s plenty of room for diversity.

I’ll probably need help from you guys soon (big smile)!

If the K&B works out, I may have a new TRX .15 for sale. What’s its street value? On the other hand…might keep it as a spare and port it.

I think everyone is voting with the dollar(s). T-Maxx is the nitro truck of the year!

[ 09-03-2001: Message edited by: DesertRacer ]

[ammoace]

Street value for the TRX is about $79 since that is what it would cost to replace it using the Traxxas Engine swap program.
Jerry

[Pat]

wow i drove my tmaxx all weekend its awesome!! i flipped it jumped nose dived it anything nothing broke :) well its great i think i might be overheating it but i dont know it gets reallly hot!! like if i touch it i mean OUCH i dunno i did the spit thing it boiled loud and went away leaving my head amess well do you think i should get a temp guage or a new head or is it running at a ok temp

[Coconut]

One thing to keep in mind about OFNA;they have about the worst customer service out there. Its not just me either,but numerous racers have posted about this. One guy who was shorted on parts in a kits,said they even accused them of fraud. Most times the say they are sending the part rightout,butm you never get it. Just something to think about.

[Gerwyn]

i couldn't wait for my piston and sleeve, i threw in my inferno tr-15 engine, not quite as powerful, but i just had to drive it around. need a new chasis for TR15 anyway, might as well use the engine :)

[estill]

Has anyone tried the Megatech .16 yet? I've found it for around $90.

[DesertRacer]

I got it! Ran 3 tanks of fuel through it in the rain :) . Very please with all aspects.

Flipped the carb around this evening! Thanks for the tip! Put in a steel spur - the slipper pegs were fun :mad: .

[SixVi6]

My opinion on the t-maxx engines..

well as far as the K&B .18.. a couple perople on the MaxxTraxx board have bought that engine.. it runs over 300deg all the time.. that is too much displacement to put into such a small case but it can work.. you need a better carb, better head, and a good heat sink motor mount to help with temps.. also its an ABN sleve.. Nickel plated instead of Chrome or ABC sleve.. high temps will destroy an ABN sleve and piston really fast.. I'd stick with something better.

The megatech is a good engine. Makes good power and has decent longevity. I'd still rather have the total reliability of an OS engine or for a low buck powerplant...

The best I've run for the money is actually the TRX .. After a good case porting, rod knife edging, sleve porting and crank porting and polishing everyhitng they scream! the ports on the TRX are larger than the OS engines. I've been running ported TRX's for a since I picked up my T-maxx and it moves. I've beaten OS .15cv hyper, megatech powered, and Duratrax .16 t-maxxes with my TRX. also because everybody seems to hate the TRX you can get them really cheap..
Just my 2 cents on the latest t-maxx engines..

[DesertRacer]

Pat, did you cut ventalation a hole in the front window? Make sure your motor is tuned properly. Use a good fuel w/ lots of oil. Other than that?

[ammoace]

Pat,
When you tune your engine during breakin you shouldn't be doing anything but a big oval on a smooth surface like a parking lot. Error on the rich side when setting the needles. And everything desert racer said. Oh, the TRX from what I understand runs hot compared to some other engines. Something in the range of 250* to 260* is not uncommon. A temp gauge wouldn't be a bad investment to protect your engine. Also you might want to get a throttle return spring. I've heard that these things have repeatedly saved the lives of many Nitro powered R/C vehicles. :o
Later,
Jerry

[DesertRacer]

Sixvi6 – Thanks for the info on the engines. I ended up matching the case on the TRX 15 to the intake ports, didn’t touch the rod. The engine is more powerful now but it hasn’t been fully exploited. I’ve still got the stock pipe – a performance pipe is on the way. Porting sets an engine up but the pipe makes it happen.

Second gear is setup to shift when the engine hits near max rpms. The truck used to take perhaps 75 yards to do this. Now it shifts within 25 feet. At first I thought it was stuck in first gear because it shifts so fast and there is no pitch (engine exhaust noise) change! However, watching the frame and suspension closely there is an abrupt the reaction as the additional torque is applied. This was while I was running it on the street w/ .15% nitro. I’m totally satisfied with the speed and acceleration of the truck.

Still waiting on the K&B 18 engine I ordered. It’s always good to have a second engine. By the way, the K&B is ABC while the OS CV’s (not CV-R’s) are ABN. The main reason I’m not interested in the CV’s.

[rc_king1]

I currently have a cvec pipe on my trx engine. What is the best position for the diaphram if I want more take off? Thanks :confused:

[SixVi6]

Yeah the TRX is really not a bad engine at all. I could not believe it when I opened up the engine for the first time! all that port just blocked off by the case. if you go all out and do the rod and all it will really move out and the temps will decrease a lot becuase the engine runs cooler.. lol.. I thought my truck was not going into second also.. I had to do some adjusting of the 2 speed to get it back to where I want.
Here is a pic of My Maxx... (http://members.home.net/sixvi6-camaro/maxx_08.jpg) and another (http://members.home.net/sixvi6-camaro/maxx_14.jpg) of the TRX.. Its an old pic but its got a Trinity punk head, thats a stock header (but I usually run a Big Tube header), and an Associated Pipe. I've since de-annodized the head, stock header, and most everything on the truck so they are silver now. The other engie I have is an OS.12 with a duratrax SBC piston and sleve and an old odonell head oh and of course it ported too. lol..

[SixVi6]

ohh and..

I was told that it was an ABN sleve on the .18 but who knows for sure. what I do know is that HPI makes a .18, HotBodiesOnline has one, and K&B but they are all the same HPI FE motor with a larger bore piston and sleve. Here is a link to a large post on the whole .18 thing from HPI racing.
http://www.hpiracing.com/ubb/Forum9/HTML/023188.html

When you get it I'm curious as to how it runs. I know of only two people that have the K&B .18 so far from the MaxxTraxx board. so its too new to really say its bad or good.. but I do know it runs really hot.. we'll see..

John

[DesertRacer]

John,

Thanks for the link, that was informative. I can see the resemblance in the two motors (K&B/HPI) by looking at the carburetors. Now I’m confused by the K&B ad (Sept, RC Nitro Magazine, Pg 97) which say’s the K&B is an ABC. Hope I’m not disappointed…

Ran ½ gallon through my truck yesterday – it’s not new anymore. Rolled it front to rear and side-to-side about 30 times (smile)…jumping it quite a lot. After the first few big cartwheels, I learned to be total on the gas when exiting a jump. The T-Maxx will drop the nose in a heartbeat. Accidentally went off a hill with it when I was pulling it over to the side of the road to fuel it, while talking to my wife I was not paying attention…it cart wheeled while careening the 200 feet to the bottom then landed upside-down like a dead turtle. OMG (grin)! Tough Truck! It can ride wheelies too. My 8-year old son beat me with a 30-foot wheelie – beginners luck – he doesn’t know when to left off (smile). I got some long wheelie but couldn’t replicate it.

My engine is running hot as evidence by the burnt oil on the engine case fins near the exhaust and on the glow plug. Hum…. But she’s not flaming out or losing power. Wondering if I should worry about it? Should I buy a better head?

Are there any weak parts in the drive train? Like axles or gears that I should upgrade?

JerryL,
Saw your list of upgrade parts - Thanks. The plastic drivelines, are they good to go?

[ 09-09-2001: Message edited by: DesertRacer ]

[SixVi6]

Yeah thats why I'm confued on the whole .18 thing. three different companies and three different answers to just about every question asked of them but yet they are almost the same engine. I guess we'll find out.

The tranny grears shuld be ok.. go eazy on reverse though. I had this habbit of going into reverse then hammering it and doing doughnuts in reverse.. yeah it looked cool but even with the totally stock engine I broke the reverse primary gear. The forward primary gear will be ok with a .15 unless you get a super powerfull one and use a small 16t endbell. The axles are fine too but if you want you can buy some wooden dowel and eopxy to reinforce the axle in the center. lets see.. Here is a link on how to do that.. (http://www.maxxtraxx.com/tech/tech045.shtml)

ohh and a lot more tips and tricks here
Tech tips.. (http://www.maxxtraxx.com/tech/)

The TRX runs hot usually really hot. its because Traxxas decided not to open up the ports all the way in the case.. I don't know why.. but with a good case port and a better head it will run much cooler. I do know I guy that does porting on TRx's for I think $30 shipped. he's done excelent work and has a good turnaround time. The heat is not good for the engine because it decreases the longevity.. lol.. thats why the Traxxas TRX manual says to rebuild it every 2 gallons but I ran 4 gallons through my ported TRX before it needed a rebuild and I ran the piss out of it too.

I never had anything begin to break on my maxx until I started to do really stupid things like top speed into a right angle curb and a large rock.. oops.. ohhh and mega air jumps. most driving on a t-maxx should won't break anything. cartwheels and small jumps are no problem but now with the stuff I have its a tough truck. I've hit things at full speed and not had any damage. I rolled the ting into a curb and totaly mangled the head. the best bet is to drive it. if anything breaks then hunt around and replace it with something better. Thats what I've been doing. Thats is one of the fun things about the maxx trucks. There is a huge aftermarket and it makes it fun.. you probably will never see two maxes that look alike or have the exact same hop ups.

[DarkWraith]

Quick question... Sorry if it has been answered before.

How hot (generally) are you all running your engines? My buddies TMaxx runs real hot and we just can't seem to get it into the normal temp range and keep it running well.

Thanks in advance...

[Jay Meyers]

Hello All :D ,

I have had my T-Maxx for about 4 months, (Great truck) the problem I am having is when I get about 1/4 to 1/2 through a tank of fuel ,the engine will stall, I can usually get it re-started, but then it will run for a bit and stall again. I have played with the fuel mixtures and this problem still exists......Any suggestions :confused:

[ammoace]

DR,
Are you reffering to the Telescoping Driveshafts that the T-Maxx uses? CVDs are supposed to be better but my stock shafts have never failed me.
A word of warning for all of you fellow T-Maxx owners. A tree will defeat a T-Maxx hands down. Saplings on the other hand may at least show a little scar. :D
Tree 1, T-Maxx 0

Jerry

[DesertRacer]

JerryL,

Thanks for the info on the stock driveline. Don't want to put any unnecessary money into the truck.

Sixvi6,
Received the K&B motor. Haven't installed it as I'm waiting on a couple of parts. It's small compared to the stock motor. Looks too small...not robust enough. The carb is a single needle unit (no low speed mixture adjust and it can only be mounted in two directions. Wouldn't recomend the engine at this point. The instructions say it's ABC. Suspect your comments about the engine are 100% correct.

[ 09-14-2001: Message edited by: DesertRacer ]

[ammoace]

DesertRacer,
You are welcome. I would like to add a little foot note though. If you want to jump up to a .21 conversion you most likely have to go with the CVDs. Also make sure you clean the grooves of the stock drive shafts. Don't lube them as this may attract even more gunk. I find an air compressor set about 40psi and using a blow nozzle works really well at blowing the large crud away before you pull out the Q-tips or pipe cleaners. Just make sure you wear eye protection as compressed air tends to launch objects at rather unpredictable directions.
Jerry

[Gerwyn]

finally got my maxx runnin again with the stock engine, re-done the break-in, man does it rock, just gotta fine tune it now and it'll be ready to rock :) just gotta find a good place to run it now, the street is only fun for a while.

[ammoace]

The nice thing about the T-Maxx is that it can run just about anywhere. :D
Jerry

[SixVi6]

desertRacer.. I got a K&B .18 in a trade for one of my ported TRX's last week. the guy was getting 280deg temps durring a mega rich breakin and was just not wanting to deal with it. I happened to walk into teh LHS and see the guy asking if he could sell it there and get a stock TRX. anyways.. I have run it.. and yes OMG it does run really hot and tunning is a bit of a pain because of the single needle carb.. when I run it rich to keep the temps below the 300deg range it loads up with fuel at idle and dies.. if I lean it out and live the 300+ temps with mile driving it runs great but just too hot.. I was afraid to get really crazy with it because of teh ruinning temps.. I've since shelved the engine for now.. but I've talked to a couple others that have the K&B .18 engine and the New Era head is the one to buy for much better cooling. I ve talked to a couple people that say tunning is no longer a problem because the temps are way down from the stock FE head.. so in a couple weeks I'll probably order up the New Era .18 head and give it a shot. hopfully this engie will still be a good deal.

[DesertRacer]

SixVi6, Thanks for the info... Just packed up all my goodies and shipped them to the states. I don't leave for a month...miss my cars already.

[Pat]

i got a tmaxx and i have a temp guage one of the lazer ones it read betwet 250 to 300 depending on seetings which i hear are okay temps:)

[Coconut]

One thing I remeber about the use of sliders verus CVD's. Team Losi ,including Kinwald has been known to run them on rough tracks stating that they handle rough tracks withy runts much better than CVD's.

[JerryL]

As far as sliders vs CVDs is concerned the way I see it is if the sliders work, why spend the extra money on replacing them with CVDs?
Later,
Jerry

(Notice when they changed to this new software that all of my older posts reverted back to ammoace?) :D

[JerryL]

In order to expedite the repair process of my T-Maxx I have decided to just keep it stock. That way I can save money to purchase a TXT-1 instead of an E-Maxx. However an E-Maxx can always expect to find a welcome home sign for it at my house. :D
Jerry

[JerryL]

So where did all of the T-Maxxers go? I guess they have moved back to the Monster Truck Forum. :(
Later,
Jerry

[draggerman11]

Hey Jerry! Man, I want the TXT-1 too! But I want the T-Maxx to... hehe...:D

[JerryL]

I think Tamiya just made all of the other Manufactures of Electric monster trucks gasp and clutch their chests. :D The TXT-1 is trying to do what T-Maxx did, dominate the market of Electric Monster Trucks by including what should have always been in a Monster Truck. Great suspension, out of the box after market style parts, and little extras like two bodies. The E-Maxx has a little competition now, providing the TXT-1 proves to be as durable as it looks. :) I don't think it is much competition for the T-Maxx as they are not powered the same. My biggest problem is the price. I think it is a little high but reasonable. I was hoping that they would set the average street price at about $300 to $350 in order to keep it in the range of the E-Maxx.
Just my thoughts,
Jerry

[Other_cents]

It would be more reasonable to believe that Traxxas will drop their price on the E-Maxx now that they have some competition. If there are no shipping issues with the TXT-1 then I would not see why most hobby shops will carry both products to boost competition. The only thing that the E-Maxx has for it is the upgrade parts that are available for the Truck. The TXT-1 will take alittle while to catch up to the Maxxas, but at the price you quoted it should not take long. :D :D :D

[SixVi6]

I really want a TXT and still keep my e-maxx and t-maxx also.. I'm even thinking of getting one on e-bay since that is where people are getting them in the states at the moment.. .. but as I'm building the txt I will make a few changes.. use some angle stock and put my spare E-maxx tranny in there and mount the servo for the 2-speed.. and also put my extra set of titans and EVX in there too... so I guess it would be a TXTmaxx-1.. ohhh yeah... it should be one heck of a truck with that setup. it would make a nice addition to my growing monster truck family.

[SixVi6]

* * * * my small block maxx catching air * * * * (http://members.home.net/sixvi6-camaro/bashin_04.jpg)

here are links to my trucks after a fresh rebuild on the t-maxx after some umplesantness earlier in the week....

Yes I know the rear tires on the e-maxx are backwards.. I flip them when I run it on loose dirt.. and it throws up a bit of a rooster tail...

The T from the side next to the E (http://members.home.net/sixvi6-camaro/maxx_24.jpg)

The back of the T (http://members.home.net/sixvi6-camaro/maxx_25.jpg)

The Front of the E (http://members.home.net/sixvi6-camaro/maxx_26.jpg)

No top T-maxx setup (http://members.home.net/sixvi6-camaro/maxx_27.jpg)

No top E-maxx setup (http://members.home.net/sixvi6-camaro/maxx_28.jpg)

Right front T-maxx no top (http://members.home.net/sixvi6-camaro/maxx_29.jpg)

The night lights on the E-maxx (http://members.home.net/sixvi6-camaro/maxx_30.jpg)

Both the trucks again (http://members.home.net/sixvi6-camaro/maxx_31.jpg)

The T-maxx no top form the left front (http://members.home.net/sixvi6-camaro/maxx_32.jpg)

[JerryL]

As most of you know I had a little run it with a tree and then my engine got a little messed up after sucking in some sand. Well I got the Megatech 16 yesturday to replace the TRX 15 Pro. I heard here and at the hobby shop that this engine would drop right in without any modifications. Well I must have the worst luck because the bolt hole on my new engine don't line up to the ones on the stock engine mount. The mount isn't wide enough. They do seem to be space correctly but the distance from the left side to the right side bolt holes isn't wide enough. The mount isn't bent or warped either. Maybe this is because I have had my T-Maxx for almost a year and they have made a lot of running changes to the truck. Anyone have an opinion as to if they think it is the engine or the mount? Would buying a new engine mount fix this? Maybe upgrade the mount to the polished aluminum?
Thanks,
Jerry

[cucountry]

Hey all, i just got a full rollcage from rcraven for my tmaxx and i am thinking about replacing the stock pipe. I was wondering if anyone has one of these rollcage's with an MIP stinger or one of those dual pipes. I was also looking at the CVEC kit which lets the pipe be mounted in the rear of the truck. I know i could mount a new CVEC in place of my old pipe but i would like to go with something rear exhaust. If anyone has tried this please let me know what works and what doesnt.:confused:

[cucountry]

Im wanting to put a stinger kit on my tmaxx but ive seen some people says its harder to tune. Im wondering if that is with the stock engine or all engines. i have an O.S. CV-15 X on mine and im wondering if anyone has success with this combo. I just hate having all that damn oil get over my tmaxx from the stock pipes.

[SixVi6]

JerryL.. I;ve never heard of that problem.. you could try getting a new stock one or machined alum one. try lining the stock engine up next to the M16 and see exactly what the problem is. thats a strange one.. I've run a picco .15.. a couple OS engines and ported TRX's on my maxx and I only have two stock engine mounts that I've used on all of them and its never had a problem lining up to whichever motor I put it on so.. mabey it is the motor. I don't know.

cucountry.. well from seeing the RC ravens cage in person I do not think a out of the box rear exhaust will work. but I do have a really big pic that I have a link to that somebody made a rear exhaust.. HERE*** (http://home.columbus.rr.com/delosh/supermaxx/sm_ps_exhA.jpg) I think it is a modified stinger header.. bent to clear the rear shock tower.. a Traxxas rustler Coupler and a piece of pipe as an extension... it looks like he also did cut out one cross bar that sits right behind the head of the engine.. the pipe in this pic is a team associated pipe.. but any pipe will work the same.. a stinger should work with this cage if you cut out the cross bar thats behind the head of the engine.. I've never heard of problems running a stinger other than if the truck wheelies it can plug the exhaust with dirt or break the pipe if it hits hard enough. .. I hope this helps..

[cucountry]

Yeah, i just found out that i will have to cut off that rear cross bar to install my stinger but thats cool. Anyways im getting the associated shocks for my tmaxx and i was wondering if anyone could recommend a good weight of oil to use. Im thinking about 60 weight silicone. I also bought the red firm springs to use on the new shocks. I want a setup to keep it from tipping over as much. I added my rollcage and that added about 2 pounds of weight to the top half of my truck. any suggestions would help.

[SixVi6]

I run the AE shocks.. with 70wt trinity oil.. RRP 2 stage pistons purple dampening.. alum shock caps.. MIP blue seals.. and one RC ravens dual rate spring and one stock AE blue spring per corner. my truck handles great with this setup.

[JerryL]

Well I can't figure out how to measure the width from left to right to see if the holes are the same width apart or if the M-16 engine has wider apart holes then the TRX. I was going to use my drafting compase but it seems to be hiding real well. ;) I also emailed Megatech to see if this has been reported as a problem before or if this is a first.
Jerry

[JerryL]

Well just as I was about to give up looking for the compase I found it. And verdit is in. The Bolt holes on the New Megatech motor are wider, from center to center, left to right, then the mounting holes on my TRX Pro. :( Now I guess I need to figure out how I can return this motor and get a different one that will match up. The problem I have is I bought this motor at a LHS in San Antonio Texas which is 5 hours away from my house. :( And to top it off I can't get the little mounting bolts out of the holes in the new engine because the little built in washers are hanging up on the side of the engine. :mad: I am just having no luck with this thing lately.
In case I didn't mention it before, when I bought the engine I bought a lot of what I needed to get T-Maxx up and running again. But while putting the truck back together I found that the throttle servo case is busted and the chassis seems to be bent. I think the chassis is bent because while putting on the new bulkheads and other stuff they just didn't want to fit very well. In fact the shock towers mounting holes didn't want to line up with the bulkhead mounting holes. That is when I noticed that the little tabs on the front of the chassis are a little more tweaked then I thought. Now I have to buy a new chassis too. Buy the time I am done fixing this thing I probably could have bought a new one. :rolleyes:
Jerry

[JerryL]

I just transfered the compase measurements to a ruler and here is the results.
The TRX Pro bolt pattern width is 1 1/2"
The Megatech 16 pattern width is 1 5/8"

This means a meager 1/8th of an inch is holding me back from mounting this new monster engine. :mad:

BTW - the distance fore and aft is 7/8" on both engines.

Jerry

[SixVi6]

Jerry.. if you are looking for stock parts and do not mind buying from regular people instead of hobby shops.. try MaxxTraxx.com's Buy,Sell Trade baord (http://pub13.ezboard.com/fmaxximumtraxxasgeneralrcforsale) I've bought a lot of stuff from people there and many.. many people have stock parts that they sell for dirt cheap.. I've seen stock chasis go for $15-20.. and there is a Good/Bad trader (http://pub13.ezboard.com/fmaxximumtraxxasfrm75) forum too to check on the history of a person you are buying from.. I'm all over that board all the time as SixVi6 camaro...

sorry to hear about your problems though.. I have heard of some machining issues with the M16 but nothing like this.

[JerryL]

SixVi6,
Unfortunately the Megatech people still have not replied to me today but it is still early in the business day especially if they are out on the west coast. I have thought about buying used parts. But I am still a little wary about it. I know a lot of the folks on this board, at least what they let people see of them, and I trust 90% of the people here. I have not been to the "other" board unless someone links to it for pics and stuff. When I was a moderator here I didn't have a lot of time to surf the other BBs. Since the none payroll moderators seem to have all been fired I do have more time. ;)
My T-Maxx will run again, it just may take more time than I really would like. Besides I would still like to update/upgrade the truck while it is broke. I don't think I would buy a used chassis. Mine was bent and I didn't even know it until I tried to replace parts that were attached to it when it was bent with new parts. I doubt most would say thier chassis is straight when it isn't in order to make a quick buck, but they may do just that without even knowing it. My chassis is tweaked just enough to make adding parts to it a little harder then normal. So may someone elses.
Thanks for the tip and I will keep my eyes open for used parts.
Jerry

What other maching problems have you heard about?

[cucountry]

Hey guys, i just got my first tmaxx last week and i bought it from ebay but i didnt get a manual. I have a couple questions on a couple of things im not sure about. Im installing an 18tooth clutch bell and ive been told that i will probably need to reset the shift point for the tranny. If someone could please let me know how to do this it would be greatly appreciated. Also, i would like to lock out the reverse gears in the tranny and im not sure about how to do that either. And one last question, im installing an aluminum forward primary gear and i want to know if i can use silicone grease to lube the new gears in the tranny or should i use diff lube? :confused:

[draggerman11]

TTT! Jerry, that is terrible! I have designed a forced air induction unit for the T-Maxx. It is a matter of testing it, and I will hope to sell them around the area.

[JerryL]

Well Megatech got in touch with me. After a couple emails back and forth we, Megatech and I, decided it would be best if I just send my engine back and they will send me a new one. They said I could drill the holes out to make it fit but the tolerances would be too close for my comfort.

My opinion about Megatech's Customer Service is they may take a while to respond initially but they do have extensive knowledge of thier products. On a scale of one to ten I have to say they are a 7.

Talk with you folks later,
Jerry

[cucountry]

Does anyone know of any tracks in florida that race t-maxx's?:confused:

[T-Vette]

I know you said you didnt want a used chassi but you are more than welcome to mine. I will mail it to you for free if you like. I bought my T used by put a .21 right in it so if you would like it just give me an email.

[JerryL]

T-Vette,
Sure I would be happy to have your used chassis. I will email you right now, and Thanks a TON!
Jerry

[JerryL]

I just thought that I should clear up what I said about buying not really wanting a used chassis.

1. I have bought many used parts and a couple cars from people on this BB and have never been disatified with the parts.
2. I would buy used parts again from folks that are registered here on this BB without hesitation.
3. There is absolutely nothing wrong with buying used parts as long as you completely understand that they are used.

I hope that nobody thought that I didn't trust them or that I didn't think the opposite of what I wrote above.

Jerry

[JerryL]

Cucountry,
Have you tried the Regional Forum to ask about racing in Florida?
Jerry

[JerryL]

Just thought I would update you guys on my Megatech engine problem. It turns out that my engine was not drilled right. After many emails between Megatech and me, I ended up sending the engine to Megatech for an exchange. So I should have another new engine within a few days. Hopefully it will be here by Friday as I hate waiting for stuff in the mail. :D
Jerry

[JerryL]

I thought that I would share a pic of the Maintenance stand that I made, none were mass produced at the time I made mine.

It is made of 1"x4" Cedar Fence picket. It is a little crude but it works real well. I warm the engine while it is on this stand so there isn't any run aways. I am still working on a way to attach hold down clamps so that I can use it hands free. Right now I have to hold the truck on the stand while it is running so that it doesn't fall off and endanger anyone or anything. :o

Enjoy,
Jerry

[jeepdude_1]

Has any one tried the new gears from Hardcore that go in the trans ? :p :D :confused:

[TunaMaxx]

Originally posted by jeepdude_1
Has any one tried the new gears from Hardcore that go in the trans ? :p :D :confused:

I haven't used the Hardcore gears, but I did fill my tranny up with aluminum gears from Golden Horizons. I was tearing up