Racing with a Rustler??? Maybe...

[BigBadTahoe]

I wanted to know if my rustler can keep up and race against the ae and losi St trucks? Those trucks are made for racing and the rustler is more like a basher or isn't it? Mine has a 13turn retro motor 13t esc, 20tooth pinion, rpm rims w/proline knobby tires, and a hitec MG servo. If I can't race with it what is the best racer and would it be a good idea to take like the motor and servo from the rustler and put them on the race truck? Sorry for so many questions.:( I just need advice.:)

[BTE214]

How's your driving?:p If your running a 13t you'll have to be in a pretty competitive class. Although I personally would recommending switching your gear into a losi or ae you could try it for a race.

[BigBadTahoe]

I'm pretty good but my track doesn't get that specific. What would be the next easier class after that? Are the Losi-AE balanced better or just lighter better suspension, what?

[FSU427P]

Losi and AE trucks are purpose-built racers. Before the trucks (and other cars) are released, they are extensively tested at race tracks around the world by team drivers and designers. This ensures that overall balance and performance can be maintained over a wide variety of tracks and track surfaces. That is also why these trucks have many different set up options out of the box. The Rustler can be raced as well, it will just take more racer savvy to get that truck up to speed, because the set-up options are less. There's no doubt that it can be done, I've seen many rustlers at the track that compete with no problem, however most of them run in the stock and sportsman modified classes. If your unsure about what you should do, try out the stock class first and see how you do with the rustler. You might be able to fine tune your truck with no problem at your track and win. If you feel that you are falling behind, and that your truck just isn't tunable enough, then you might want to think about investing in a competition truck, which if you buy used, can be reletively inexpensive. IMO, AE rules over all!!

[BigBadTahoe]

Thanks a lot for the info I understand what you mean about these other trucks being made for racing only. How do they usually classify you by how many turns your motor is? Would a 2400 keep it going through a standard race or would I have to get a 3000nimh? Sometimes they mix them and I could be racing nitros too! So I need something that will keep the power strong throughout the race.

[MyMonkey]

As far as the classes are concerned. At the local tracks they separate all gas and electrics (other than T and E maxxes that is). There are 3 classes for trucks. Sportsman (stock motor, buggy or truck), Stock Truck (stock motor, truck only) and MOd Truck, (Mod Trucks under 27 turn). The class you wil lbe in initially will probably be the sportsman so you should run stock. But if you wana run mod go fer it. The stock truck class here is for competitive drivers with stock motors. Good luck and if you race against gas then keep the mod in there.:p

And, as for batts. 2400's are ok fer Stock motors but if you run mods like 13 or lower turns you may need 3000's. NOt sure though.

[FSU427P]

I run a 13t in my T3 for modified races, and 2400s just get you to the end of the race. However I now use 3000nimh sanyo matched cells and runtime for a race is not a factor. I usually have to discharge the battery after the race. I use my old 2400's for practice now.

[BigBadTahoe]

I bought a Dynamite made 3300 pack today and they said my vision peak charger will charge it fine, is that true? Hopefully I will do pretty good its my first time racing at an actual computer counted track. I practice on my personal track but thats just for fun and practice. Oh and with the 3300 will I have to discharge it every time I run it and is there a limit of usuage I should set for myself?:confused:

[JonBoy]

I sugest you buy a decent stock motor and start with that, You or when I raced will need atleast 2 batts giving the other time to rest a min and then charge back up before next heat. Here it was 3 races. I would run the 3300 then the 2400 and back to the 3300 for the final race. I would also charge the packs and run them once before the racing day starts. As for the Rusty go for it. I wouldnt put alot of money into it chassis wise if you want to buy new motors raidio and stuff you could use on a racing ST go for it but dont be putting $100 into the rusty trying to bring it to the level of a T3 or something. You may find a T3 for less than that. Dont buy a basic t3 though get atleast a team. bearings are alot of $$