Nitro MT and MT Racer Forum V2.0

[Soloithz]

Fordman i dont think the difference will be noticeable. I have the same radio setup and everything in stock positions and it goes so far i can barely see the truck. Any farther and you wouldnt be able to tell the front from the back lol.

Also my 2 cents on the brakes. I think the stock setup is great on the NMT-R. I personally modified it so i'd have dual disk brakes and i can stop on a dime anywheres. You just have to adjust them well and scuff off any glazing from spattered fuel. My dual brake setup was posted on page 8 I think of this thread. Check it out if you want guys. Look for the "green machine" heh. Happy hauling.

[Soloithz]

I just did a quick mod on my nmt-r. I got some tubing from the hardware store and extended it from the carb venturi out through the roof and slapped on my hi flow filter. viola! ram air induction. I will post a pic later with some info on any improvements it made. My purpose in doing it was to get that big filter out of the way of airflow to my engine heatsink head. It did help with the cooling in that regard. Happy haulin!

[M16-A2]

Something like this:
http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/intake_page.htm

Did that about 16 months ago and yes it does help with temps, also gives the engine a deeper sound. (never had a chance to test if it increased power though)

http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/images/Intake04.jpg

[fordman]

I'm tired of watching my freind's t-maxx just run through grass without hardly bogging the motor down. if I get the masher 2000's and stiffen the shocks up, would I be better in the grass?

Also, is the aluminum gear mount a good hop-up? thanks for everyone's help

[M16-A2]

Mashers will get you through grass easily, provided you have an engine with a decent amount of power.
If you're running the FE I wouldn't count on it pulling Mashers and your NMT through grass at any great speed.

As for the gear mount I like it because it has an open top. This means I can adjust the slipper or 2-speed very easily right through the top of the mount!

[Soloithz]

i have the aluminum gearmount as well. Its great for removing and adjusting like m16 said. 2 drawbacks though: dirt gets in there MUCH easier and it has actualy chipped the metal teeth on my clutch bell on. Not enough to screw up the mesh or anything but the dirt gets grinded in there. The other thing is that if you have the slipper clutch, the rear brace that sits above it actually touched the slipper disc and inhibits its movement. It actually made mine feel like the tranny was locked up. The solution was to grind the metal down on the underside and add plastic washers underneath to give it clearance. Otherwise its a great thing!
I might add that 2 great tires for this truck are the proline dirt hawgs and even better; the proline gladiators with the harder rubber(m2 i think). The gladiators are awesome at carving sand and deep dirt. The hawgs are great for grass and all around packed dirt and dust. The hawgs give more ground clearance but the gladiators seem to allow for more torque cause of the less rotating mass.

[Soloithz]

Here are pics of my ram air intake. I figure getting the filter outside the truck will give it more intake than keeping it inside since the air will be rushing into it faster while the truck is in motion.

[Soloithz]

here is another with the body off

[M16-A2]

Just curious, in the event of a rollover how do you protect that filter from coming off? A hard rollover should rip that thing right off the top of the truck.

Personally I like to keep the filter on the inside, but locate it right where the cutout is in the front windshield. That way you still get the increased airflow without any chance of the filter being knocked off or otherwise messed with!

[fordman]

I was thinking about the roll-over factor too. and what fuel tank is that, what vehicle is it for? on mine it looks totaly different.
And how do you like your 15 SS soloithz?
I just put one in mine with a duratrax tube header, and a GT pipe, and with the 12 tooth clutch bell, it gets up and moves!

I think I'll take dirt protection over easy access any day. the gear mount looks really trick, but my truck gets packed with dirt at the track.

[Soloithz]

Ya know I didnt even even think of that. Yikes! I guess the key is not to roll over :) Well maybe I could cut out a round hole in the other side of the windshield and flush mount the filter there. Only thing is I'd have a gaping hole on the roof! Oh well.

The fuel tank is the stock racing tank. Its standard on the NMT-Racer version. Maybe you have the regular NMT?

I love the engine. I've overheated it several times but I havent lost any compression yet. Its definitely got torque. I wish the idle screw wasnt so darn close to the carb outlet. Its a pain to get the filer tube on.

[Soloithz]

By the way I'd like to recommend a great hop-up for this truck. The RRP lightweight flywheel I purchased made a instantly noticeable difference in acceleration. The engine seems to start quicker (less pulls on the cord). It spools up quicker I guess. The part is here Flywheel (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXTG77)

[Dino451]

I keep stripping out the lower screws on the front bearing hub. even on small love taps with a wall the screws strip out the plastic thread. This has been the weakest point on both my mt's and iam getting fed up. can anyone tell me if it is worth getting the aluminum ones from powerline, or i ve seen those made for the rs4 3 made by hotbodies(I think). Is it worth going for metal rather than plastic. I know it will strip and can never be used again, but i have bought atleast 25 dollars worth just on those hubs to replace them. Testimonies please i don't want to spend money for nothing.

[Cotharyus]

Very cool, even stock. I must say, now that I have a nitro, I wonder what I was thinking for the past 16 years that I didn't have one before. Not that I don't like my electrics still, but...wow. I have a couple of quick questions. First, I have a defect on my front shock tower. I was going to replace it, but wondered if I should replace it with an aluminum tower, or just get another stock part? Second, I noticed right off that when the radio is at full throttle (engine off, air filter off) the carb is not opened all the way. I've moved the linkage to the lower hole on the control arm on the engine, and it still doesn't quite open all the way up. Can I just screw the linkage out longer and trim the radio back for idle, or will trimming back reduce the servo travel on the other end? Any ideas?

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

muhahhaha my car

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

That's right boys... pilot shaft engine...

[gaus]

What is the best deal for a metal spur gear? I keep breaking the plastic stock one. I guess the plastic is lighter especially with the rotating mass but this is ridiculous. I have messed with the mesh, loose, tight, just right, and keep on breaking one of the teeth.

Also - how do you measure the proper tension on the slipper clutch for best acceleration/speed?

mystified,

gaus

[fordman]

A couple of people on this forum sell steel spur gears, just look at the first few pages.
the slipper tension depends on how powerful your engine is. and what kind of terrain you're running on. With the stock 15 FE I ran it about 1/2 turn from fully locked. since I've put in the 15 SS I've had to run it down to 1/4 turn out.
I'm not sure what to do on different terrain, since I mainly run in the dirt.

bought a new digital camera, should have pics an a week or so:D :D :) :)

[fordman]

A couple of things:
NMT_RACER_BOY that's a pretty sweet looking engine. How does it run? And where did you get those mounts?
next...
I broke the plastic "C" that goes into the servo saver on the throttle servo. Is there a cheap fix, because I can't find the part on Tower(although it's probably right under my nose), and I'm afraid that just a plain servo arm might pull the carb arm too far.
last...
how much taller are the masher 2000's compared to say gladiators or dirt hawgs? anyone have pics of them side by side?
I'm either ordering rims and tires, or springs and a body.

[M16-A2]

If you need a linkage replacement I'd go for the Ofna kit as it is a much easier kit to setup!

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXARF2&P=7

A lot of people, including myself, use this kit and love it.

[Soloithz]

That "c" servo saver you're talking about...Mine is metal. How did you end up with a plastic one? The metal one hasnt split. I cant see how a plastic one would work very well. Plastic gets stressed after bending too far. I have the Racer kit maybe thats why. That or they changed it in later versions of the kit? The part number for my metal saver is HPI #a396b. Tower doesn't have it. They just have the a396 servo parts tree which does not include the metal saver. Check this link out, it is a servo kit for the rs4 but the metal spring looks the same as mine. Maybe it will work. Servo Saver Kit (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDHL1&P=7)

[fordman]

thanks, I think I'm going with the OFNA one. the teeth on the saver I have now are looking a little worn.
I took out the front drive shaft to see what this truck would do in 2WD. OMG! It was a little hairy to say the least. I love the balls-out, steer with the throttle feel!

Also, when I cranked up the ride hight, the rear dogbones kept falling out. so, I took those round plastic thingy-ma-bobs that go on the shock shafts so they can't bottom out, and put them in the drive cups. Worked like a charm.


Monkeys ate my cheese salad.

[Cotharyus]

I'm sorry to hear about your cheese salad dude. Remember, the monkeys have no tails in Zambowanga.

I'll bet that thing is pretty nuts with just 2wd - did you try any dounuts like that? (not that mine won't do insane dounuts in 4wd).

[fordman]

donuts out the ying-yang, man. at half throttle, the tires ballooned up like mad, even on black-top. it was sweet:)
it was like I was Steve McQueen in "Bullitt", only I think I would rather have had the mustang.

[LearjetMinako]

Need recommendations on a better clutch assembly that does not use needle bearings. My clutch bell is worn out and I keep chewing through spur gears as if it was food. Can't keep the spur gear to last no more than 2 tanks full. Gear mesh is correct, just a worn out clutch bell. I'll be also looking at metal spur gears, 2-speed and 3-speed tranny (if I even can find a 3-speed tranny). My truck is down and out for the count.:(

[fordman]

I too was wondering about different clutch bells. I currently run the 12 tooth, and it gets the truck up to speed in a hurry, but not a whole lot of top end. What are the advantages of having regular bearings over needle bearings anyway? I hear people trash talk needle bearings, yet mine have never failed, and still spin true.

[LearjetMinako]

What it is about needle bearings, is that as they wear out, it allows the clutch bell to wiggle freely back and for and ends up scraping the flywheel. Thats what happened to mine. You can see what damage it caused even with washer added to it before this.

[fordman]

WOW! My flywheel has started getting a small groove worn into it, and I had no idea that's what was causing it! where do I get bearings for the clutch bell? now that I know, I don't want to do any more damage. Also what size cluch bell are you guys running?

[LearjetMinako]

I think I found a replacement for the clutch bell. I don't know yet that it will fit the current pilot shaft from HPI, but I'll give my LHS a call to see if they carry the part so I can see if it will work.

AE 32p 14t Clutch Bell (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVP66&P=0)
AE Flanged Clutch Bell BB (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2826&P=0)

[LearjetMinako]

I found a solution for the clutch bell wiggling. With the help from my LHS, all you have to do is place three 5x8 mm BB on the pilot shaft to stop it from wiggling. It almost might take another one, but I don't have one more. I'll be putting to the test tomorrow when I get my TC3 tuned in also.

[Knappster]

time for a nice body .....what bodies will fit besides the HPI?

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

my movie http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=131031

[M16-A2]

For more info on the clutch bell bearings you can check out my site:
http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/bearing_page.htm

I run Duratrax clutch bells which are a direct replacement. I also like to use 5x8 bearings as they last longer and provide a smoother rotation.

[fordman]

knappster, any body that will fit the GT will fit. I just ordered the HPI baja bug body for mine, cuz I think it looks funky. and every other truck body I see is a chevy, which i would rather see burn and shrivel up than to see it on my truck.

M16-A2, so I need two 5x8 and two flanged 5x8 bearings right?
Which clutch bell do you run most often, the 12 tooth just doesn't have it in the straights.

[M16-A2]

Clutch bell size will really depend on what engine you run. I run a Sirio 12 which has a lot of power and can pull a 15-18 tooth clutch bell depending on where I'm running.

Most engines will do better with a 13-15 tooth bell.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

how come everyone ignores my posts?

[fordman]

sorry, NMT_RACER_BOY , but I'm still on 56k, and my connection is crappy. it takes about 1 1/2 minutes to download page 11 on this forum, and that's on a good day. I love watching r/c movies, but it takes FOREVER and a day to download.
where did you get those red engine mounts anyway. I had to order the powerline ones for my 15 SS, but I'm tired of purple.
I thought about taking the anodizing off and using rustoleum on the chassis and upper deck. bright Green would look killer!!:)

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Those mounts are from Wolf pack radials...
they are adjustable and are AWESOME!!!

Once i get all my aluminum parts, i am having them all anodized green...

muhahahaha

[nmtr13]

If i get a clutch bell with more teeth my mt will go faster rite? but what will i lose? My flywheel also have a groove in it because of the clutch bell, but i dont have the needle bearing anymore.

[fordman]

the over-all speed of your truck will be faster, but it will take more time to get there. it's like going from 4.11 gears in your full scale truck to 3.56 gears. Off the line speed will suffer, but if you run a bunch on pavement, I would go up a tooth.
now do you have no bearings at all? or are you saying that you have bearings and it still rubs? If it's the previous, I wouldn't even fire it up with out getting something on there.

[nmtr13]

Of course i have bearings! But the groove have gotten there from when i WAS using the needle bearing. My clutch bell does move back and forth a bit...

[fordman]

I almost forgot my main reason I got on here.
A few question for you guys running the twin caps.
1.Which pistons do you use? I run mainly at a BMX track with lots of jumps
2. Which weight oil?
and last
3. what's the difference between top filling and bottom filling?
the manual says top filling is "pressurized", and bottom filling is "Unpressurized" what does this mean, and what method do you perfer?

has anyone cut away part of the front chassis to let the front arms have more down travel? I've noticed that it cuts into the rear of the front arms.

[nmtr13]

I was gonna make it into a monster truck by make a small shock tower mod and thats what stopped me. And even if you did cut that piece off, it would pretty dumb if the arms were that far down...

[Dino451]

I currently run a 15 t clutchbell, i was wondering if its ok to go up to 17t bell. I got more speed from the 15 over the 12, but i didn't really notice a accel drop. iam just thinking about going another two so the engine doesnt stay in the high rpms for a long time.

[fordman]

anyone on the twin cap set-up, before I get them together?

[1stPlace]

Does anyone know how to fit a second fuel tank into the NMT, i heard people mention this but where would u put it? and what tank would u use?

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

you could try to hook it up behind the rear shocktower
but this topic was very rarely talked about...
I don't see no point in doing so

[M16-A2]

A second tank fits easily on the rear shock tower. It will however throw off the truck when jumping as the extra weight changes the COG.

http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/images/dualtank06.jpg

[1stPlace]

nice pic.......

second tank was just a thought, I ordered all the Titanium parts for the NMT from F4i including the Heavy Duty Chassis and One Piece Upper Deck ........ I figure with the extra weight

I’m sick of bending and breaking chassis parts.

[RCCARBOY747]

hey guys
if you want a second tank you could mount it in the rear but it may get dameged.this is what I did.
1.remove radio tray,steering servo,and rx.
2.cut the tray so you have the middle hole for the pin to secure it and that hole next to it.
3.remount the servo buy cutting a hole where the battry was and mount it out of the side.
4.now mout the rx next to the th servo with a zip tie and the battry on the shock tower with one as well.
5.now put the tank in right next to the old one.you can use zip ties for a wihle but I opted to make a mount from aluminum.
6.buy a slider linkage and install.

now I know its alot of work but it looks cool when done and you dont have tubing runnig from the rear to the front.I'll get a pic as soon as I can for ya:D

[PCC]

All that work and all just to mount a second tank. When I had my NMT Racer I installed an OFNA 125cc tank where the stock tank is and it fit like a glove. Took all of about ten minutes to do, too.

[1stPlace]

Cool !! PCC I will look for that tank. Thanks for the info everyone.

[kakolitoy]

Any of you guys run or saw the HPI Sprint buggy RR runs @ your local track?

This buggy is quite a hit in Tokyo, I would like to know some feedbacks of this buggy in the U.S.

[jimbonj]

Originally posted by kakolitoy
Any of you guys run or saw the HPI Sprint buggy RR runs @ your local track?

This buggy is quite a hit in Tokyo, I would like to know some feedbacks of this buggy in the U.S.

Check in the Misc. Vehicles section. There's a thread for the Lightning.

HTH, Jim.

[1stPlace]

Excuse me if this is not the correct forum for this question, but does anyone know what u can use to strip the anodiz color of the aluminum parts?

[Knappster]

will THIS (http://www.pro-lineracing.com/flash/plhome.html) fit on the nmt

[wilson_bryant]

not to be rude or anything but which one???

[Knappster]

sry the link wasnt the rite one....the factory team GT crowd pleazer

[Mossdog]

The RC10 shells fit the NMT fine, I run one myself! Check out my webpage for lots of NMT pictures.

www.mossdog.freeservers.com

[Knappster]

cool thanks for the info

[Knappster]

im thinking about getting some on road tires.....what tires are the best and what r some tips for some good on-road setups..thanks

[fordman]

I like the looks of pro-line's speed hawg tires, and I've heard that the road rage tires are good too. personally I like running the dirt hawgs because they don't wear out too fast, and they drift pretty well.

I think I had my slipper too tight yesterday. I was jumping a plywood jump on the lot at work, and on one hard nose landing I sheared both front differential shafts where they exit the gearbox. how many turns out do you run the slipper? I have the 15 SS, and normally run the slipper 1/2 turn out for the dirt.

M16-A2, thanks for suggesting the Ofna throttle linkage, it works great!! my brakes are about 100 times better now since the servo can travel futher now.

[wilson_bryant]

well first off i would like to say that i love this truck. i went racing for the first time saturday and in the first race i was first but i broke a part :o . and in the second race i was second(did not finish also because engine stalled:mad:. there should have been a third race but the d@*m rain came.

after that race i have decieded to upgrade the part that broke to
Al. and get some turnbuckles. what i am wondering is if these (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTB51&P=0) are alright or should i get someting else.

thanks wilson


EDIT: what about these (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZJ57&P=0)

[Godspeed]

Originally posted by PCC
All that work and all just to mount a second tank. When I had my NMT Racer I installed an OFNA 125cc tank where the stock tank is and it fit like a glove. Took all of about ten minutes to do, too.

Hi there, is the OFNA 125cc tank the same as the HOBAO 125cc tank? Is that the tank that is used on the 1/8 buggies or on the OFNA MTs? Just wanna make sure i don't get the wrong stuff. Thanks a lot. Cheers. :)

[KOLOR KRAFT]

wilson the lunsford ones will work awsome i have raced mine for almost two years and still never bent them yet. dont forget the rpm caps too they are a must also. the mt is a very racy truck truck need some upgrades to stay competitive like shocks,towers and keep a eye on the diffs and should stay preety durable...
:) happy racing

[fordman]

wilson, why not get the lunsford ones, and use the 6 bucks you saved to buy RPM ball cups. the RPM ones hold a bunch tighter than the HPI ones.
turnbuckles: (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZJ57&P=7)
ball cups: (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRB09&P=0)

they're not purple, but it's a better deal.

[wilson_bryant]

well first off i dont like purple and i like my truck black.

someone mentoned shockes and towers. which shocks are the "best". and would powerline shock towers be alright.

thanks for all the help.

[PCC]

Originally posted by Godspeed
Hi there, is the OFNA 125cc tank the same as the HOBAO 125cc tank? Is that the tank that is used on the 1/8 buggies or on the OFNA MTs? Just wanna make sure i don't get the wrong stuff. Thanks a lot. Cheers. :) It's actually the Hong Nor one they put on their older design buggies like the Ultra MBX or Ultra GT.

[fordman]

don't know about shock towers, but I just finished installing the kyosho Twin cap shocks about a week ago, and have had no problems. they work great!! With the stockers, I was always having to refill shocks that the caps had blown off of.

tonight I am kicking myself in the twins. I had just replaced my throttle servo and was doing some parking lot runs. all of a sudden, I find myself going full throttle twards the inside corner
of the concrete barrier. I was just barly able to steer out of a head-on crash. it ripped both passenger wheels off, both arms, bent both CVD's, 2 diff cups, and dented my pipe and manifold.

I forgot to screw in the servo arm.:o :( :mad:
a big sigh was all I coud muster.

[Cotharyus]

Ouch, that sucks. If it's any consolation, I ripped of an A-arm last night myself on a chunk of concrete - started to run out of fuel (everyone's familiar with that whole leaning out sensation) in a turn, and I couldn't get off the throttle and on the brakes fast enough to keep it from plowing out of control into the the barrier. The only real comfort in the whole thing is that the A-arm is all that broke, and I had another set already to be boiled.

[Mossdog]

Originally posted by fordman
don't know about shock towers, but I just finished installing the kyosho Twin cap shocks about a week ago, and have had no problems. they work great!! With the stockers, I was always having to refill shocks that the caps had blown off of.

tonight I am kicking myself in the twins. I had just replaced my throttle servo and was doing some parking lot runs. all of a sudden, I find myself going full throttle twards the inside corner
of the concrete barrier. I was just barly able to steer out of a head-on crash. it ripped both passenger wheels off, both arms, bent both CVD's, 2 diff cups, and dented my pipe and manifold.

I forgot to screw in the servo arm.:o :( :mad:
a big sigh was all I coud muster.

OWCH! :eek:

[SST'99Pro]

Hello everyone!! Finally got my NMT :D . Great deal. Bought it without engine - my LHS makes me a real good price ;) .
But my couple of question is:
1- I ordered an OS15 CV-r non-pull and the cheap engine mounts that HPI makes ( i dont remember de name ):rolleyes: . Does this "combo" works whith the stock flywheel? and does it work on a starter box?
and my second is:
2-when i was assembling the kit i make a big mistake. Instead i use thread locK (loctite 242), i use CS tire glue in that little screws that olds the Cup Join t to the Center Gear shaft. Whell, the CS glue work "so good" that now i can't take of the F....... screws :D . I nee to take im out becouse i forget to put the little pin in the center gear shaft ( it was at 5 am so......):cool: . How can i make that little screws came out again??? Please help me becouse i'm stuck......
Thanks a lot guys. And now i finally can join he NMT clan hehe.
Thanks
Ricardo

[LearjetMinako]

The OS engine with the cheap engine mounts will work fine with the stock flywheel. As for the oops that you made, (I hate CA glue by the way) you need to buy a bottle of CA debonder. Almost any hobby store will carry it.

Good luck on trying to get the screw out.:D

[M16-A2]

If you have a solder iron you won't need debonder.

Just put the hot solder iron on the head of the screw and let it get hot. This should liquify the CA glue or at least turn it to a gel which will then allow you to easily remove the screw!

[megaman]

yeah guys, im new to the nmt clan too, (kindof) my bud bought one off of ebay, and it needed a piston and sleeve, and a radio system (which he bought). but now he forgot about it and already wants a new one (hes not the smartest). so now i have this nmt thats getting wasted!? what am i to do? so i want to use it but i dont want to shell out the cash for a new piston/sleeve, so i decide ill just use my other engine and engine mounts, but they dont fit. basically it took me this long to ask what engine mounts sstpro is talking about LOL. the engine is a pull start btw. thanks.

[LearjetMinako]

Here are the engine mounts that we were talking about.
Cheap Engine Mounts (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN373&P=7)
Purple Aluminum Mounts (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLR3&P=7)

Wolfpack Radicals offer some really nice ones. I personally never tried them, but heard that they are great.
Wolfpacks (http://wolfpackradicals.com/html/all_mounts.html)

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

i give thumbs up to the wolfpack mounts
they are DA BOMB!!!
i really like them

[M16-A2]

Wolfpack mounts are very nice. I've been running a set for 4 years now without a single problem.

[clemsnfan]

I recently purchased a NMT racer with a OS CV-RX .15. I broke the engine in, but now I do one full speed run and the engine stalls or sometimes the engine will stall after about 20 seconds of idle. I have fooled with the needle settings to death and the fuel system is fine. If someone could offer some help I would be very thankful. I wanna see what this thing can do!

[LearjetMinako]

The OS .15 CV-RX engine is a nice engine with the powerband that it offers. A little tip for that engine, ever once in a while retighten every screw on the engine (including the pull starter). They has a tendence to come loose.

As for that problem that you are having. It could be the engine is still trying to break in or the problem I had. Most of you probably won't believe me, but check the inlet nipple to carb and check for any blue hair balls that might of got inside. Try adjusting the idle screw to increase throttle at idle by a tad. As for why its stalling at high speed, I really can't say why.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

i have the same motor run it in a couple of laps and when you stop if the idle is high and then after about ten seconds it goes down and stalls then the low needle is to lean the screw should be almost flush maybe screwed in a touch. wiht it flush it should run along time unless you have a vacum leak somwhere!!!

when it is running take a spray bottle with water and squirt it around the motor and lower bearimg to see if it stalls if it stalls when squirting water then that is were your vacum leak is....

[clemsnfan]

The OS engine I bought is a slide carb but the supplied linkage is for rotary carb. Is there a replacement set that will fit the MT. I see that HPI makes one for the RS4 will that fit? I think this may be part of my problem, since the only way I could get the linkage to work was loosen the slide carb nut.

[fordman]

M16-A2 suggested this linkage to me and I am eternally grateful.
It'a much more versatile than the plasitic stocker, and it took me all of 15 minutes to install. it will work for either slide carbs or rotary carbs, plus it's purple.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXARF2

[Mossdog]

Like this.... I have the .15 CV-R (slide carb) in my NMT with the ofna linkage, works great! Lots of HPI truck pics at www.mossdog.freeservers.com :p

[gometro333]

Go enough throttle return springs there?

[Mossdog]

? :confused: ?

I just finished restoring my NMT with fresh CV-R rebuild and conrod, new plastics, new diffs and some more alloy components, cant wait till tomorrow to bash it with the Savage!

Powerline Aluminum Steering Assembly w/ball bearings
Powerline Rear shock tower braces
OS.15 CV-R
Powerline HD chassis
Big Ball Bearing Set
HPI HD Differentials w RTR 2 Bevel gears
HPI slipper clutch
HPI Racer tank
HPI SS Hinge pins
MIP Shiney CVDs Front (Bulletproofed)
Associated RC 10GT Tuned Pipe (purple)
Powerline Aluminum Steering Plate
Custom Fiber re-enforced Plastic Side Skirts/Spur gear protector
F4i Racing Titanium Shock Towers
HPI Fiber Brake Disk
Graphite Upper deck and Megatech Aluminum one piece upper deck
Powerline Front knuckles
Powerline Rear Hubs
MIP Shiney CVDs Rear (Bulletproofed)
HPI Ti-Turnbuckles
HITEC HS-645 MG steering servo
RPM ballcups
Duratrax ST Header(hand worked)
Custom Bumpers/Skidplates
Kyosho Twin Cap shocks
HPI Receiver Cover (L)
Motorsaver Air Filter
Dubro Purple Fuel Filter
HG Titanium Ballstuds
Racing clutch

[gometro333]

Holy crap thats awesome!! But what I would like to know is what size bearing you used for the steering assembly. There are several different sites that say different sizes, so what size do you and everyone use?

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

aluminum ones use 5X8 and stock plastic uses 4X8

[Mossdog]

Indeed, I used 5X8X3 unflanged bearings for the powerline steering assembly.

[gometro333]

Thats hot

[M16-A2]

If anyone would be interested I'm selling my Rad-Tech Stella aluminum rims. Rims have Proline Road Hawg tires mounted on them and have only been run once, so there are no scratches!
Asking price for rims and tires is $115, but I will consider any reasonable offer. Just PM or email me at gimps_2k2@yahoo.com

Here's a pic for those who haven't seen these rims yet:
http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/images/NMT_Stella05.jpg

[Cotharyus]

Moss - gotta give you props on those bumpers again - saved the front end of my truck again last night. I just moved and there's this metal stake in the yard I didn't see ...

anyhow, what I'm really after here is the cvd's you're using - where'd you get them, and what's it mean you "bulletproofed" them? I bent a front doggie last night, and I'm trying to find a one time replacement...

[clemsnfan]

Thanks for your help guys.

Hey Mossdog, are the custom plastic bumpers on your website still for sale? I am interested in buying a pair for my MT.

[jcats]

CUDOS on those bumpers, MossD!!!
They saved my MT on some nasty crashes!!!

Does anyone have an XXL 75Mhz/Ch80crystal/Futaba receiver
they can sell me?

jcats

[fordman]

Man mossdog, with that motor/pipe/header set-up, you must get hellacious low end. And you must run in some pretty filthy stuff to need two fuel filters, or it's just paranoia.:)

[CrAzY nMt]

OK i'm probably going to get yelled at for this one but what engine do you guys run and what engines do you think are the best for a NMT for only Bashing? I'm looking at .15's only and i like the O.S. CV-RX but i read a lot about them having idle problems and hard to tune. Plus my buddy has one that is a pain in the- to tune. I just would like your opinions.

I just dont have the time to read through all the pages of this thread haha.

Thanks
Chris

[kev-b]

Here's a pic of my NMT . . . .

http://www.kab.freeuk.com/images/nmt03s.jpg

Some more here. (http://www.kab.freeuk.com/nmt.htm)
Some of my other trucks here. (http://www.kab.freeuk.com/trucks.htm)

Kev.

[fordman]

I personally use the 15 SS. it has pretty good low-end, and it's farly cheap.

[ALJR]

any on in here interested in a nitro mt w/ extras?

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=134737

or a micro rx?

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=134219

[ALJR]

sorry.. i also have a .21 conversion kit:

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=133800

[fuzzy2133]

03' fantom .15 with 25% nitro. super sweet.

[kev-b]

I've noticed that when people put a slide-carb in their NMTs they end up with the linkage at an angle, ie not a linear push/pull on the carb. I turned my servo round and it puts the arm at a much better position for the carb.

http://www.kab.freeuk.com/images/nmtlnk1.jpg

Any reasons why nobody else has done this? Am I missing a fundamental thing?
Just curious. :confused:

Kev.

[Dino451]

What is the best off road setup for racing. I have kyosho tcp's all over. I have black, blue and purple hpi springs to choose from. I want to get a nice set up for track conditions. I want to know shock oil, piston setups and springs, and spacers. Pics would be nice to see shock postions. One big question, does anybody notice a difference if u change the wheelbase and shocks postion( u know in front of shock tower or behind) in racing conditions.

[gometro333]

Kev, its because most just loosen the screw on the carb and turn it a bit so that the linkage actually is straight, even from the stock servo position. But your way is also good because you don't need to turn the carb as much and you can make the linkages themselves shorter and less seceptable (spelling is probably wrong) to breakage or bending.

[M16-A2]

I've had my servo turned for a very long time, over 2 years. There is no noticeable benefit to it because the carb works just fine if you just turn the carb a few degrees, but I agree it seems more practical to have a straight push/pull on the carb.

[newnitrofan]

Heya everyone,

I really like my NMT but damnit I'm tired of not being able to run cool looking big tires on it. Has anyone tried to put any T/E Maxx tires on theirs. I like the pro line Mashers but there don't seem to be any real great looking Rims available in 2.2 wheel size. Also I'm kinda new to my NMT too and I really want to put some hop ups into it however of course money is lacking. Can you guys help with a first few things I could do to change the speed of it for Low Dollars. I want to make it go faster. I am running stock everything. No upgrades as of yet:mad:

[LearjetMinako]

Trying make a truck into a monster truck? Can it be done? Probably, but with problems. Just by adding larger tires, the NMT will be able to go faster, but will not take off from starting very good. A simple way to get any nitro to go faster is to change the clutchbell with a clutchbell that has more teeth.

[fuzzy2133]

Will wolf packs ofna rim adapters allow you to mount dominator rims and tires on the NMT?

[gometro333]

newnitrofan: Here's a crazy idea, if you wanna go faster upgrade from the stock 15 FE engine that comes with the kit. You can find cheap .15's all over the place and that will improve speed and power so you can get those big tires and be able to get off the starting line in under a minute. But some other things to consider are a racing clutch (2- or 3-shoe) and if your racing on road, a 2-speed tranny. Hope this helps.

[Soloithz]

Has anyone tried out that new supercharger from RB Innovations yet? Just curious as to the results of such a thing. It looks pretty cool. I just got my hyper-valve in also made by RB. I will put it on in a few days and see if it makes any difference. The website is www.rbinnovations.com

[Mossdog]

Originally posted by clemsnfan
Thanks for your help guys.

Hey Mossdog, are the custom plastic bumpers on your website still for sale? I am interested in buying a pair for my MT.

Yes I still have bumpers available, and thanks to all who commented on them, they do their job well!

www.mossdog.freeservers.com

As far a bigger tires on the NMT with a high output engine I personally wouldnt bother. I attribute 3 failed diffs to running the Mashers with the CV-R set up I had. I tried gearing it up a bit with 14 and 15 tooth clutchbells, but with the mashers I chewed up diffs alot. I even had a HD 13T final fail on me with that combination. The NMT is designed to bottom out as well, and with taller tires more stress is put on the suspension components.

[Cotharyus]

Originally posted by Soloithz
Has anyone tried out that new supercharger from RB Innovations yet? Just curious as to the results of such a thing. It looks pretty cool. I just got my hyper-valve in also made by RB. I will put it on in a few days and see if it makes any difference. The website is www.rbinnovations.com

I hate to tell you this, but unless the supercharger includes extensive engine modifications, there is basicly no way it can work. The problem here, but simply, is that the intake and exhaust ports on a 2-stroke are open at the same time, hence all you're doing is blowing air through the engine, I don't think you can actually build any presure in the cylinder, which is what supercharging an engine is all about - increasing the non-compressed presure in the cylinder to 1-bar++ before a compression stroke takes place. Now, this super charger thingy may be doing something different, and it may actually work, but if it's not creating high presure in the cylinder, then it's not a supercharger and needs to be renamed.

[Soloithz]

Hey guys I just broke my pullstarter for the 2nd time. I was looking at this HG product called the yank-eliminator. Its a shaft that you attach to a cordless drill for starting the engine. Has anyone used this on an NMT-R at all? It looks like might be a tad too big to fit through the turnbuckle and the cvd. My arm is sore!! I have to pull on this thing constantly to start it. I was on a good streak of 3 pulls per start for a week or so but not anymore. Any ideas guys? I'd rather not lunk around a starter box.

[CrAzY nMt]

The Yank Eliminator wont work. You'd need to pull off the turnbuckle every time to start it.

As for other ways to start it besides a starter box... i dont really know.

Also for those who have a Fantom racing single chamber pipe, how is it? I just ordered one and want to know what you think of it. Thanks

Chris

[LearjetMinako]

I don't know if this will work, but here the idea any how. Will the Traxxas Ez-Start system work in the NMT. I have thought about it so many times but never seen it done. It was just a idea.

Here is a question. How much did it cost for you guys to do a complete rebuild and overhaul to your NMT? I have so much drivetrain damage that it would be cheaper to buy another NMT and scrape the one I have now and use it for spare parts. For now, I'm getting my kicks from a old (first truck that I bought from this hobby) AE T3 for off-road racing.

[newnitrofan]

Hey everybody thanks for all the advice to my last post. I just decided to order the XTM .21 pro it's supposed to have like a shitload of horsepower. Main reason I bought it is cuz it was on sale for like$100.00 at hobbypeople.net. I can't wait to get it here and put it in. I also ordered the fully adjustable .21 mounts from wolfgang. Any other thoughts on what I should get?? OH I ordered a new pipe and header too just bought the xtm polished stuff.

[newnitrofan]

Has anyone bought any screws from rcscrewz.com. I'm interested to see if they are good quality or not.

[Mossdog]

Originally posted by LearjetMinako
I don't know if this will work, but here the idea any how. Will the Traxxas Ez-Start system work in the NMT. I have thought about it so many times but never seen it done. It was just a idea.

Here is a question. How much did it cost for you guys to do a complete rebuild and overhaul to your NMT? I have so much drivetrain damage that it would be cheaper to buy another NMT and scrape the one I have now and use it for spare parts. For now, I'm getting my kicks from a old (first truck that I bought from this hobby) AE T3 for off-road racing.

I sent all my failed drivetrain components to HPI, along with a NICE letter. The returned every failed component including the outdrives which the upgraded to Rush outdrives. Basically I got enough components back from them to build up 3 Diffs. They even replaced the HD final that failed. I did order RTR 3 bevel gears for the spiders, much improved over the stock pot metal ones for the NMT. So far so good, but I have condemned my NMT to on road and light offroading from now on. My Savage is my offroading machine. This way I wont have to constantly rebuild the NMT.

[Mossdog]

Originally posted by newnitrofan
Has anyone bought any screws from rcscrewz.com. I'm interested to see if they are good quality or not.


Here is what I am doing. Stainless Steel is well stainless steel. Locate a supplier of hardware in your city. I am using a company called Fabory (they supply industry with fasteners and such). Use your manual and write down all the hardware for your vehicle, bring it to them. The cost for me to do both my NMT and Savage in full stainless hardware is going to cost me LESS than the price of one of the Stainless hardware kits for sale around the Net.

[LearjetMinako]

So all I have to do is, send my damaged drivetrain parts to HPI co. and they will replace them. Is there any fees for this process, because my parts have been through two engines and seen alot of stress from hardcore racing. I have a output shaft connected to the rear diff that has a "L" shape carved in it. Most of the parts are damaged from wear and tear.

[M16-A2]

HPI has a reputation for sending out free parts if your's have been damaged. They may use some discretion if the parts are clearly worn from use and not from premature failure, but chances are they'll at least send you some parts for free!

It can't hurt to try if the parts are gone anyway. Just send a complimentary letter to them, maybe tell them how much you love their truck (sucking up never hurts) and then see what happens!

I have over the years received multiple free parts from HPI, this ranges from bodies to T-shirts and even a 2-speed for a NMT (which I didn't use cuz I run offroad but I appreciate it all the same).

[YucA]

Sup guys...been lurking in here for a few weeks now.

i used to have a Losi JRX Pro buggy, and an Outlaw rampage nitro truck back in the day.

My neighbors brother crashed his Nirto MT a few months ago, and it has been sitting there...

I took it off his hands for 100 bucks with everything!!!

Magnum sport radio, CV engine...=D

it does need a new shock in the front, and turn buckles and minor **** like that.

You guys think its a good deal?

[YucA]

like i said in the previous post, i need new front shocks.

Do you guys think its worth purchasing these?

Front: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXVZ59&P=7

Back: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXVZ60&P=7

or just buy the stock plastic ones for the front to replace?

also, any recommendations on an upgraded head/heatsink for an OS .15 cv ??

How about a tuned pipe and manifold??

[M16-A2]

I don't know what you're linking to there but it didn't work for me.

If you need new shocks definately go for Kyosho Twin Caps (medium for front, long for rear). They're pretty cheap and are aluminum construction which makes them extremely durable!

[YucA]

woops, sorry bout the dead links..

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ60&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ59&P=7

Do you have a link to the duratrax shocks?

BTW, thanks alot for the info.

[YucA]

* i meant to type kyosho instead of duratrax...:rolleyes:

[newnitrofan]

Ok in my last post I asked if anyone had any experience with rcscrewz.com. Well I ordered my screwz for my MT and my TypeSS. I honestly have to say that they don't come in the most enticing package nor do they actually let you know when anything ships. However I ordered my screwz on Thrusday and they are here Tuesday and they are top quality screwz and enough to do your entire kit. They will way surpass any OEM screw in durability any day. P.S. I don't work for the company either just thought I'd leave honest feedback about them. If anyone is considering purchasing it's not a bad way to spend $18.00

[Soloithz]

Hey guys need some advice. I am having trouble starting my NMT-R. I think I'm not priming it perfectly every time. I have the HPI rotostart and that works great as an alternative to the pullstarter. I have an even bigger problem getting it started if I let it idle and it stalls. It either floods or goes dry. What I have been doing is hooking a piece of tubing to the pressure inlet in the tank(primerless tank) and blowing into it with the throttle all the way open. I do this without looking into the venturi. I watch the fuel go through and basically guess as to how much is in there. I'd rather not have to remove the air filter and watch it spit out every time I want to start the truck. Any suggestions? What works for you guys?

[newnitrofan]

Hey everyone,

I am wondering anyone's experience with the HPI fiber disk. I have one laying around just haven't had a chance to use it. I am upgrading my stock .15 to a .21 claimed to have 2.6 Horsepower so I know I definitely need to upgrade the brake from stock. However I am wondering if the fiber disk will be enough or should I go to a vented rotor. Thanks for any help.

[Mossdog]

Originally posted by newnitrofan
Hey everyone,

I am wondering anyone's experience with the HPI fiber disk. I have one laying around just haven't had a chance to use it. I am upgrading my stock .15 to a .21 claimed to have 2.6 Horsepower so I know I definitely need to upgrade the brake from stock. However I am wondering if the fiber disk will be enough or should I go to a vented rotor. Thanks for any help.

I run the fiber brake on my NMT with the stock throttle servo. I can lock the brakes up at will. I personally dont see the need to go to a vented rotor and pads, possibly with the increased power of the .21 and added weight a stronger servo would definately improve the braking performance.

[CrAzY nMt]

Usually a good way to prime is by sticking your finger over the exhaust stinger and pulling your pull starter a few times. If you dont have a pull starter then probably give it a bump on a starter box, or the rotostart and then let your finger off of it and attatch your glow plug starter to start it.

And for starting it when it stalls, i'd just put the glow plug starter on and try starting it again. No priming, because usually theres fuel right there in the lines.

Hope this helps
Chris

[kev-b]

I converted my NMT to twin discs about 2 years ago and haven't had to touch it since (apart from routine cleaning etc).
The braking power is amazing, even when it had a standard sevo. It's even done a few endos when the surface has given enough traction.
http://www.kab.freeuk.com/images/nmtlnk1.jpg

If you're thinking of going .21 then I'd highly recommend it.

Kev.

[nitecrawler]

whats a roto start?

[brassmonkey1234]

Originally posted by newnitrofan
Hey everyone,

I am wondering anyone's experience with the HPI fiber disk. I have one laying around just haven't had a chance to use it. I am upgrading my stock .15 to a .21 claimed to have 2.6 Horsepower so I know I definitely need to upgrade the brake from stock. However I am wondering if the fiber disk will be enough or should I go to a vented rotor. Thanks for any help.

I hope you're upgrading more than the brakes...:rolleyes:

I strongly recomend HD diff gears, some kind of chassis stiffener and a buggy wing. W/O any of those expect major breakage and crappy handling.

BTW: one disc brake will not be enough, vented or not. Best go w/ 2.

[TJNMT]

Quick question,

Why is it that some people have there rear shocks in front of the tower and some have them in the back of the tower.

Is there a pro or con for this.
Personaly I run mine in back of the tower.

Thanks for any clear ups

[fuzzy2133]

I believe it is for the different wheel base when you turn the rear a-arm around for a shorter wheel base. a shorter wheel base makes the truck more responsive when you turn.

[Soloithz]

Putting the shocks in the rear of the tower is suppose to be for onroad and the front for offroad.

A rotostart is an electric starter for your ride. I just got one and it is great. HPI has one for the savage and for rs4 vehicles. One is for .21 engines and the other for .15 engines. Its light and uses a 7.2v stick battery. Basically its an electric drill. I highly recommend it as an alternative to the pullstart and starter box. It was $58 at the shop. well worth it.

[YucA]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAMK1&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAMK2&P=7

anyone know if these shocks will work on the Nitro MT??

Should i even bother trying?

[newnitrofan]

Hey everyone,

Thanks for all the advice. I'm going to try just the fiber brake disc for now and see how it works. I might need to upgrade the servo. AS far as chassis stiffening I thought about this already and have ordered the powerline upper aluminumn radio tray. I will be getting the HD chassis soon. I've kind of run out of budget for right now. I also ordered a slipper clutch which I felt would be vital. However right now I'm at odds with engine mounts. I have no idea which ones to get. I mean Powerline makes a set that will bolt in directly but am not sure this will hold it. I know I can always go with the wolfpack radicals .21 conversion engine mounts since they are adjustable. However in looking at the engine it looks like it will mount right in. Any suggestions for me??

[newnitrofan]

OH yeah, Just ordered bumpers from Mossdog. Thought these would be important too in case the thing gets away from me. Although I have been thinking of where I'm actually going to run this thing. I live in downtown Portland Oregon in a high rise and a concrete jungle. No where to run it in the immediate area.

[Mossdog]

Ahhh yes the concrete jungle. Well be creative, anywhere you see a ledge, jump off it! Make shift ramps can be made from inclines and such. A little creativity and you will find lots of places to run!

[jshiigi808]

can i use this engine for my mt Ofna Force p4 w/pull start engine and what else do i have to buy to run it cause i know i have to buy the converion kit and im planing on buying new eras one.

[jshiigi808]

or can i use this engine Hot Bodies .18 Engine but do i have to still buy the conversion kit or iy'll just bolt up, is this engine any good cause in planning on buying it from new era. oh yeah can my .15fe stock header fit on that engine to.

[TJNMT]

Originally posted by Soloithz
Putting the shocks in the rear of the tower is suppose to be for onroad and the front for offroad.

Damn that sucks I've been running the whole time with my shocks in the rear of the tower, I'll make the change to thr front of the tower this weekened. As for the wheelbase change I want a longer wheel base for more stable being off road how would I know which is which on the rear arms??

Thanks for all your help

[smacked]

Hey gimpy, remember me? I still have my NMT. I bought a metal spur from you awhile back. Well, justsaying hi, kbai.

[brassmonkey1234]

Screw new eras. Get the wolfpack radicals conversion. Only gripe is to not use his screws. They strip like nuts so don't even bother using his screws. You still need a wing so get that. HD gears will definetly be needed. With stockers, a few throttle mashes will fry them.


EDITED cause I quoted the wrong person.

[jshiigi808]

how bout this engine, Hot Bodies .18 Engine but do i have to still buy the conversion kit or iy'll just bolt up, is this engine any good cause in planning on buying it from new era. oh yeah can my .15fe stock header fit on that engine to.

[Mossdog]

Originally posted by jshiigi808
how bout this engine, Hot Bodies .18 Engine but do i have to still buy the conversion kit or iy'll just bolt up, is this engine any good cause in planning on buying it from new era. oh yeah can my .15fe stock header fit on that engine to.

From what I have read the HB.18 engine is not a good choice. I realize that its a cheap engine, but its basically a bored out 15FE. The 15FE has enough troubles keeping cool. Your stock header would fit but wont help performance any. Things to consider when upgrading your engine.....new flywheel collet, engine mounts (HPI cheap $5 ones work great) Header/tuned pipe and a racer clutch to get that power out to the wheels.

Search tower for the overdrive ST header. Its the same diameter as the NJ big tube header (Tmaxx header could fit inside it!) and its only 11 bucks!

www.mossdog.freeservers.com

[Soloithz]

Hey guys I posted a note a couple days ago about this new gadget I bought from rb innovations. Its this thing called a Hyper-valve. Here is the website again www.rbinnovations.com

Anyway I wanted to share my initial results with you all. It is supposed to boost fuel pressure to the tank. It was a pain readjusting the carb settings but I think i finally got it. It definitely does what they claim. The response is great now. My NMT feels more aggressive. I did though put on an 11t clutch bell and new clutch at same time. There is one drawback though. It boosts pressure almost too well because now I cant keep the idle down low enough to prevent the truck from rolling. There is a very fine line I have to tweak around. I still could readjust the idle stop screw also so maybe I am jumping the gun on that one. Perhaps with the increased pressure it does not need to be at 1.5mm but maybe a bit less. After the engine stops you have to lift the tank lid to let the pressure out otherwise it floods the carb too. If and when I get more results I shall share again. Happy trails!

[newnitrofan]

Hey guys,

Well just got my .21 motor and damnit it's cool. Well I ran into a snag though. I swear when I was looking at the pictures online when I ordered it that it was a pull start. Well it seriously isn't. From what I can gather there is a starter box needed. I'm seriously going to see if there is a pull start for it but i didn't look like it. So does anyone have any suggestions on a starter box? Think I jumped the gun a little bit when I bought the engine.

[jshiigi808]

can i use this engine for my mt Ofna Force p4 w/pull start engine and what else do i have to buy to run it cause i know i have to buy the converion kit and im planing on buying new eras one.

[Soloithz]

Originally posted by newnitrofan
Hey guys,

Well just got my .21 motor and damnit it's cool. Well I ran into a snag though. I swear when I was looking at the pictures online when I ordered it that it was a pull start. Well it seriously isn't. From what I can gather there is a starter box needed. I'm seriously going to see if there is a pull start for it but i didn't look like it. So does anyone have any suggestions on a starter box? Think I jumped the gun a little bit when I bought the engine.


If you have an NMT and the engine is HPI or OS or similar then I would suggest looking into a rotostart. Like the one hpi sells for the savage. It cost me $58 from the hobby shop. No sore arms or broken strings. Uses a 7.2v stick battery. Make sure you buy the one for the savage as its for a .21 size engine.

[rc10gtisthebest]

Quick Question,

I have a friend that wants to know if the 2-speed from a RS4 (org.) can be put in to the NMT?

If not, where can he get one?


Thanks,
Todd

Sorry for the question but I'm just not an HPI kinda Guy.;)

[CrAzY nMt]

No the rs4 2-speed will not work in the truck. I believe that the gearing is different and wont work well with a truck. But you may be able to change the gears, but i'm not sure.

Chris

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

the shaft is different and the oneway adapter is not there unless it is a HD RS4 2 2speed tranny.
Tell him to go and buy one at www.wolfpackradicals.com

[TJNMT]

Originally posted by kev-b
I've noticed that when people put a slide-carb in their NMTs they end up with the linkage at an angle, ie not a linear push/pull on the carb. I turned my servo round and it puts the arm at a much better position for the carb.

http://www.kab.freeuk.com/images/nmtlnk1.jpg

Any reasons why nobody else has done this? Am I missing a fundamental thing?
Just curious. :confused:

Kev.

Keb
quick question
I was wondering why some people put there throttle spring in front of the arm and some put the spring in the back of the arm.
Is there a difference in doing this either way??

The reason I ask is because I just bought the ofna kit for it and wondering which way to put the spring.


Please help me out or anybody else. Thank You

[newnitrofan]

Originally posted by Soloithz
If you have an NMT and the engine is HPI or OS or similar then I would suggest looking into a rotostart. Like the one hpi sells for the savage. It cost me $58 from the hobby shop. No sore arms or broken strings. Uses a 7.2v stick battery. Make sure you buy the one for the savage as its for a .21 size engine.

I think the problem with this is that my engine is an XTM. I am looking into whether this will work or not. I need to get the specs on savage engine and see how it all works. This is honestly my preferred method. I am also looking into my other option and seeing if XTM makes a pullstart, though I'd rather not have one.

[mr_zukinni]

i am getting a nmt off of the internet and it has a hpi nitro star ss in it i was wondering if that is a great motor power and speed wize

:confused:

[Mossdog]

I think the SS will be adequate in the NMT, I think its around .7HP. Decent for the truck. You can change the clutchbell to a 14 or 15T for more top end speed.

Check my webpage for lots of NMT pics and custom components! :D

www.mossdog.freeservers.com

[jeffr147]

using a dremel with sanding drum i attempted to make it easier for me to put the radio tray posts through my ti upper deck (which seemed much tighter holes than the plastic and graphite decks...) needless to say i got... i mean the dremel;) got carried away and took off too much of the posts resulting in a lot of slop in the tray and steering servo area. so i am wondering if any of you guys who have went to full upperdecks would be willing to send thiers to me (i promise i wont butcher them up like i did to mine...). i would greatly appreciate it! Thanks!

[kev-b]

TJNMT, it all depends on which way your carb dictates it. On my setup (as with all slide carbs) the servo arm needs to move beyond the 'closed throttle' position to allow the brakes to work, the spring lets this happen. It pushes in to close the carb.
On rotary carbs, depending on which way round it needs to be installed, it may need to be pulled to be closed, hence the spring on the other side.
So, if the servo pushes to close the carb, spring in front. If it pulls to close, spring behind.

:cool:

Kev.

[TJNMT]

Kev,

Thanks for the support and suggestions. yeah I still got the Fe but an OS is on it's way. SO I got the spring hooked up the right way.

Once again Thank you

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

which OS did you get?

[TJNMT]

I got the
cv-rx
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBHL2&P=K

[newnitrofan]

Hey Peoples,

I ultimately want to get a new tougher chassis. However I am kind of debating using the stock one for now. Has anyone had luck with putting a .21 motor in their NMT with a stock chassis and how did it do. Later everyone.

[YucA]

i would like to know if anyone has been able to get a better setup for the throttle linkage on the NMT with an engine using a rotary carb.

I know there has to be something that can be done. This stock setup sucks ass!!!!

Please reply or PM me if you know of anything. I dont mind modifiying parts to fit, ill do anything...as long as its better than this...

[newnitrofan]

Originally posted by YucA
i would like to know if anyone has been able to get a better setup for the throttle linkage on the NMT with an engine using a rotary carb.

I know there has to be something that can be done. This stock setup sucks ass!!!!

Please reply or PM me if you know of anything. I dont mind modifiying parts to fit, ill do anything...as long as its better than this...

What problems are you having. I mean yeah it's not the best but if you honestly set it up right you should have no problems at all. Let us know what you are experiencing.

[YucA]

ok here goes...

when i try to set the throttle linkage, i set everything up perfect, got the perfect size gap in the throttle on idle, but when i press reverse fully, it pulls the arm thats actually connected to the carb(what has the male end of the ball joint on the carb), making it slip so when it goes back to idle position, its accelerated.... I have tried everything, and it always slips when its being pulled.

[gometro333]

I had that same problem and I fixed it by using endpoint adjustment on my radio so that the linkage wouldn't pull far enough to make the carb slip. Other than that you try putting a slighty stronger TRS so that, again, the carb won't be forced into slipping. But ultimitley I would try to save up for a slide carb because of the linkage and the slightly better air flow through the carb.

[theShark]

Originally posted by brassmonkey1234
[B]I strongly recomend HD diff gears, some kind of chassis stiffener and a buggy wing.

this sounds interesting....what buggy wing are you using? and how do you mount it?

[gometro333]

Kedar's website has the best instructions I've seen....

http://www.kedar.itgo.com/tipz.html#wing

So uh....go there

[newnitrofan]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by YucA
[B]ok here goes...

That just sounds crazy I honestly only had my idle set up too high when I built mine. I'm wondering how the slide carb thing is going to work out for me. I am installing a .21 motor in mine real soon and I am of course going to get the ofna throttle linkage kit. I would suggest a slide carb too though.

[YucA]

well ill definetely keep in mind bout getting a slide carb, but i got other priorities before that, so ill just mess with it and set it up best i can...

New question...lol

About the shock towers...

I would love Ti towers, but they too damn pricey. Between Aluminum towers and graphite towers, which ones are better?

[gometro333]

Hmmm....graphite or aluminum....I'd go with....Titanium

[theShark]

Originally posted by gometro333
Kedar's website has the best instructions I've seen....

http://www.kedar.itgo.com/tipz.html#wing

So uh....go there

kickass...thanks

my snr turned nitro mt will end up being a buggy :rolleyes:

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Here is some pics with my new digital servo
And here is a MOVIE (http://www.******.net/media/electronics_proj_0001.wmv)

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

kinda low quality,
had to make it smaller and change the quality so i can post...
next time i am just going to upload them on the net

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Last pic

[fuzzy2133]

those KO servos have really good bang for the buck.

[newnitrofan]

Alright everyone I have a question. What is it with primers on fuel tanks and why does everyone not have one on their truck. I mean from reading through posts everone kind of seems to frown on them. I kind of wouldn't know what to do without mine. Can you guys shed some light on this subject for me.

[newnitrofan]

Originally posted by gometro333
Hmmm....graphite or aluminum....I'd go with....Titanium
Does anyone have an honest opinion on Aluminumn or Graphite. I was thinking of going with either for shock towers. Aluminumn seems like it would be plenty strong enough. Wouldn't choose aluminumn for bumpers cuz I know they would bend on the first hardcore crash.

[gometro333]

That was an honest answer....anyways, I seriously wouldn't go for graphite only because of the rigidness with it. I realize that aluminum would be just as stiff or whatever but all graphite/carbon fiber is....how do I say it?....brittle. It may be strong and light but one twist or turn in the wrong direction could be fatal. I would go with aluminum only because I don't like graphite. But seriously, why are you so quick to dismiss titanium?

[gometro333]

The idea behind the primer is to push fuel in the carb for easier starting but the same thing can be done by simply putting your finger over the tip of your tuned pipe and taking a few yanks on the pull starter. The reason people don't like them is because of leeks. The primer is the very first spot air will begin to leek. With every push on it your widening the hole it goes through just a tad with means more and more space for air to get in and thus losing the pressure in the fuel line and making your engine stall (or not start) because no fuel is getting to your engine. SO instead of buying new tanks, most take out the primer, slide an o-ring onto a short spare screw and close up the hole and just use the technique of covering the pipe tip and yankin' away. Hope this answers your question.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Originally posted by fuzzy2133
those KO servos have really good bang for the buck.
um...
good bang for the buck?
these babies cost $110

lol... :D

[Mossdog]

Originally posted by newnitrofan
Does anyone have an honest opinion on Aluminumn or Graphite. I was thinking of going with either for shock towers. Aluminumn seems like it would be plenty strong enough. Wouldn't choose aluminumn for bumpers cuz I know they would bend on the first hardcore crash.

I have the answer for your bumper dilemma! Check out my website.... www.mossdog.freeservers.com

Shock towers can take a beating in rollovers, I recommend the aluminum, or if you have the cash nothing beat Titanium shocktowers, I have them on my NMT and they are indestructible and give multiple shock mounting options.

As for tank primers, many people seal them up because they can cause airleaks. You can test your primer by submersing it under water. Use some fuel line and blow into the tank (plug the outlet obviously) Pump the primer up and down and watch for airbubbles. I have had 3 primer tanks between my NMT's and RS4 2 all of them leaked. I run the racer tank on the NMT and sealed up the RS4 tank. Hope that answers your question.

If you seal it up you can prime your engine by plugging the exhaust stinger with your finger and giving the pullstart a couple of tugs. Has the same effect as the primer!! :cool:

EDIT: OOPs didnt see your post Geo.......

[fuzzy2133]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
um...
good bang for the buck?
these babies cost $110

lol... :D

:D as long as you can say it with a smile that is all that matters.:D

[LT250R]

I need a better cluch bell then stock. Where can i find one?

[jeffr147]

Originally posted by jeffr147
using a dremel with sanding drum i attempted to make it easier for me to put the radio tray posts through my ti upper deck (which seemed much tighter holes than the plastic and graphite decks...) needless to say i got... i mean the dremel;) got carried away and took off too much of the posts resulting in a lot of slop in the tray and steering servo area. so i am wondering if any of you guys who have went to full upperdecks would be willing to send thiers to me (i promise i wont butcher them up like i did to mine...). i would greatly appreciate it! Thanks!

anyone, someone?

[newnitrofan]

Originally posted by gometro333
That was an honest answer....anyways, I seriously wouldn't go for graphite only because of the rigidness with it. I realize that aluminum would be just as stiff or whatever but all graphite/carbon fiber is....how do I say it?....brittle. It may be strong and light but one twist or turn in the wrong direction could be fatal. I would go with aluminum only because I don't like graphite. But seriously, why are you so quick to dismiss titanium?

Ok first everyone know's Titanium is like way stronger than aluminumn. I was just kinda wondering if aluminumn wouldn't hold up to a good beating or not. I mean pro line makes so many wonderful parts for the Mt that I know they have to be strong. I only dismiss titanium for myself just cause it's so expensive. I am trying to do a low buck .21 conversion. Well I thought low buck but #300.00 later here I am and my engine is still not mountable to my truck. I need to get some good engine mounts I will probably get wolfpack radicals kit for that. I also need a dam starter box or bump starter. My new engine has no pull cord. OH yeah Mossdog I just purchased bumpers from ya.

[newnitrofan]

Hey man,

I was noticing on ur page that in some pics that you had four zip ties on the top of the cooling head of your engine. How come?? I've seen this on a few other guys stuff but not much. Just curious I guess.

[LearjetMinako]

Zip ties placed on the engine cooling head, pervents the head from being scared up from a roll over.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

I am personally waiting for F4i's titanium bumpers

[PCC]

Larry's making titanium bumpers for the NMT, now??? And to think that he got started in this whole business when my brother complained to him that the NMT front shock tower was weak!

[YucA]

i few days age i asked if there was a better setup for rotary carbs for the MT. Didnt get much replies, and i thought i was stuck with the stock hpi linkage. Then someone posted a link to this site and i found this...

http://www.kedar.itgo.com/tipz.html#sliderotary

I ended up buying the Ofna linkage kit, and installed it on my ride. What a difference!! I recommend anybody with a rotary carb to spend 8 bucks for this thing...:D

[LearjetMinako]

Or you can do what I did and use left over aircraft parts to build a sliding throttle linkage.:D Either way, A sliding throttle link is a must for max braking and taking it easy on the throttle arm

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Originally posted by PCC
Larry's making titanium bumpers for the NMT, now??? And to think that he got started in this whole business when my brother complained to him that the NMT front shock tower was weak!

yup,
he says it's in the shop waiting for him to pick it up

[Knappster]

i need to replace the gear on my slipper clutch....i no the nmt 52T 2 speed gear will fit...but will the 49 work? if u have the part # that would b great

thanks

[PCC]

Yes, the 49T spur would work. I forgot what the smallest spur gear was that would fit that slipper clutch but I think it's like the 44T or 46T one. Look at WWW.HPIRACING.COM for the part numbers.

[Pa|2a|)oX]

Hey all!
I'm not sure if this has yet been discussed on these forums, but a buddy of mine, iced-nmt, is creating a Twin Hyper 21 8 Port NMT, the project is nearing completion with about 500$ CAD left to go. You can check it out here (http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=564&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0).

Here are some pics of the truck so far!

http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2482 http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2483 http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2484 http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2485

[PCC]

What kind of diffs are you using? What kind of driveline are you using? When my brother dropped a 21RG in his NMT he broke all kinds of things in the drivetrain and diffs. If I'm not mistaken, the Hyper 8 port makes more power than the RG. Two would be insane.

[newnitrofan]

I'm planning to drop a .21 in mine, I could only imagine two. I am already planning HD gears and good Cvd's. I could only imagine two.

[PCC]

The problem with HPI's expensive HD gears, when it comes to the power of a sport .21 is that the teeth chip off. The standard diff gears will just wear away really fast, even shimmed and reshimmed to try to keep the mesh. The HD outdrives will wear a groove or just plain snap in two (one side of the drivecup will break off). Use Nitro Rush outdrives as they're the strongest outdrives that will fit. MIP CVD's for the NMT are really thin if you compare them to what they have for 1/8 buggies or even the T-Maxx so they will snap on you. For .21 duties you're better off running stock dogbones as they're cheaper and tend to be stronger than the CVD bones.

[M16-A2]

Actually for .21's stock doggies aren't the best answer. There is an HD dogbone that is much stronger than the stock ones:

http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/Dogbone_page.htm

[newnitrofan]

The spur gear that is currently in my truck is my biggest concern honestly. Does anyone know anyone that still makes them?? And as far as diff's go Is there a heavy duty front one way that will work at all?? I've been kind of contemplating that too.

[[HHR]iced-nmt]

Originally posted by PCC
What kind of diffs are you using? What kind of driveline are you using? When my brother dropped a 21RG in his NMT he broke all kinds of things in the drivetrain and diffs. If I'm not mistaken, the Hyper 8 port makes more power than the RG. Two would be insane.

Not his, it's my truck :D

I'm using HPI's HD diffs. I'm also using some really thick Kyosho cups and doggies for the rest of the drivetrain. For now the WPR 2 speed will only have first gear, 2nd will be locked out. I still gotta buy some stuff, like cups that will allow brake rotors to fit on them, and then I gotta machine some adapters for them to fit on the 2 speed shaft. I might use some TT cups for the drivetrain going from the diffs to the wheels, there are still some possibilites. LOTS of information onthe www.hpiforums.com boards. 30+ pages worth.

Here is the link to the thread, originally it was supposed to be a twin XTM 24.7 NMT, but I ran the 8 Ports before, loved them, didn't like the way the 24.7s ran when I tested them, they just didn't last... So, guess what I stuck with... The 8 Ports.

Anyways, the link to the thread is:

http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=564

That's page one. Here are the latest pics:

http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2482
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2483
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2484
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2485
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2487
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2488
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2489
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2490
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2491
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2492
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2493
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2494
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2495
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2496

Enjoy :D

P.S. For now, first gear is 22/49. That is my starting point.

[TJNMT]

quick question,
Where is the cheapest place to get a heavy duty upper deck for my MT.
THe only place I shop at is Tower but I;m looking for soemthing cheaper at the moment.

Thank you for any replies

[[HHR]iced-nmt]

Look on E-Bay. You can probably find one for around 15-20$ new.

Tower usually has competitive prices, you won't find too much of a better deal on any official online shops. Look around on E-Bay or on other forums where people may be parting their NMTs or just selling some parts.

[[HHR]iced-nmt]

Originally posted by newnitrofan
The spur gear that is currently in my truck is my biggest concern honestly. Does anyone know anyone that still makes them?? And as far as diff's go Is there a heavy duty front one way that will work at all?? I've been kind of contemplating that too.

PM me with any questions, we've got LOTS of steel spurs here. 49 and 52T.


P.S. Sorry for double post, but the Edit button didn't seem to work on that one :confused: :confused: :confused:

[newnitrofan]

Cool, I'll get in contact with you in a couple of day's I need some damn money first

[[HHR]iced-nmt]

Cool. I can post all info here if it isn't against the rules. Haven't had time to read them yet, but I assume they are like most other - cannot advertise?

[PonderJ50]

your trim .21 NMT looks alot like the setup project twin has a forum about?? and he claims its his??????????

[Mossdog]

Hello ICED! :D I found some skirts for your project, will get them out next week sometime! Cant wait till that twin powered beast is running!!!!! Its come a long way from a simple sketch!!!!! I actually have skirts on my NMT currently.

[[HHR]iced-nmt]

Originally posted by PonderJ50
your trim .21 NMT looks alot like the setup project twin has a forum about?? and he claims its his??????????

Umm... His was a T-Maxx, a Monster Truck. Mine is the NMT, which is a stadium truck, which will also have 4 wheel steering, and I'm running rear arms in the front, along with rear shocks and shock tower in the front. I don't see how you got that this was his? It's a completely different truck. I've yet to see a twin anything ST, let alone a twin .21 ST.

Dale - :D :D Sounds great, I'll definitely need those :D Thanks.

[PonderJ50]

the thread you have about your truck the subject said project twin and i assumed tha it was project twins truck I just now looked and saw that it was your forum. Im very sorry I was just confused. now that Ive made myself look like a idiot ill go.

[[HHR]iced-nmt]

lol, don't worry about it bro. Stay here, no one is kicking you out.

[PonderJ50]

hey. I just got a full set of aluminum a-arms. and they came with a set of what lokks like some ball link ends that can hook on to the a-arm. does anyone know what these are for and if someone can send me a picture that shows how they work that would be appreciated.

[[HHR]iced-nmt]

That's for the sway bar set. They go on either side, depending on what you want the wheelbase to be. Where there are the countersunk holes in the arms, that's where they get screwed into.

[PonderJ50]

ok than I dont need them right now cause I dont have the sway bar set. do you think I should get it does it help very much. I do really like the new a-arms though they look real nice.

[[HHR]iced-nmt]

Depends, are you going off-road? A lot of people do run them off road, but if you do a lot of jumping, then it's better to leave them off. They are meant for on-road use so that when say you are making a hard left turn, the right suspension arm is raised. Withthe sway bar set, the left A-Arms is raised a bit too, to help stabalize the truck while turning. When on a track, it makes a difference, even when just bashing in the parking lot or on a dirt track. I'm getting a set for my truck, it's worth the ~15$.

[Soloithz]

Originally posted by Pa|2a|)oX
Hey all!
I'm not sure if this has yet been discussed on these forums, but a buddy of mine, iced-nmt, is creating a Twin Hyper 21 8 Port NMT, the project is nearing completion with about 500$ CAD left to go. You can check it out here (http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=564&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0).

Here are some pics of the truck so far!

http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2482 http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2483 http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2484 http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2485

Just curious...Where do you plan on putting the radio gear??? And all the linkages needed for 4 wheel steering?? A second tier on the deck maybe?

[[HHR]iced-nmt]

The steering servo is gonna be at approx. the same position as it is stock. I have servo mounts for the steering servo.

The throttle servo is gonna be to the right of the center gear box, like, front right. I have a linkage drawn out as a starting point, bought a couple sets of the OFNA linkage, plus have lots of stoppers and springs at home and all.

There is no upper deck, the chassis brace, along with the 4mm chassis, and soon to be torque rods are enough. Rear tower braces will also be there.

the Rx and Rx pack will be somewhere too. lol. Again, only approx. locations are in thought right now, but put it this way. hardly anyone thought a 2nd engine would fit on that chassis... And mine fit with ease. Innovation will take care of everything.

[newnitrofan]

I've been watching the twin engine project for some time now over various boards n'stuff. My one thought is how you are going to get both engines to actually be able to work out the transmission. I mean how's that gonna work. Probably a lot simpler than I'm thinking.

[[HHR]iced-nmt]

Originally posted by newnitrofan
I've been watching the twin engine project for some time now over various boards n'stuff. My one thought is how you are going to get both engines to actually be able to work out the transmission. I mean how's that gonna work. Probably a lot simpler than I'm thinking.

Wait a minute... Over various boards and stuff? I joined here last night, and the only other board I'm on is the www.hpiforums.com board. Can you show me anywhere else you've seen it?

Anyways. It's quite simple. 2 engines, 2 CBs, one spur.

I have the Powerline center alloy gearbox, so both sides are open, so the CB can cotnact the spur no problem.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Your Wrong!
2 engines 2 clutch bells and 2 spurs!
it's pretty bad when someone knows more then you about your project
:D :D :D


lol j/k

[newnitrofan]

Hey man, I originally stumbled onto your project like two weeks ago. Ok so not a while. I'm still new to all of this thread posting stuff. However I have gotten some really great info for my MT thru here. I actually caught your project on KolorKraft's website. Bout three weeks ago I think. If you look up Where I first saw ur project (http://www.kolor-kraft.com/forums/index.php?act=ST&f=7&t=12&) Think that should explain it I hope. I only learned about the unofficial hpi forums like two days ago. Well later.

[newnitrofan]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
Your Wrong!
2 engines 2 clutch bells and 2 spurs!
it's pretty bad when someone knows more then you about your project
:D :D :D


lol j/k

HEHE he did say two spur gears too didn't he, something about one of'em will be locked out.

[[HHR]iced-nmt]

newnitrofan - oh yeah, oops, lol, forgot I posted on a forum that I myself moderate... wow. lol.

Steven - Nope, actually I WILL be running only 1 gear. Like newnitrofan said, 2nd gear will be locked out. It won't even have a spur on it. The clutch shoes will be taken out, so... Only 1 gear, lol.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

ah...
that's pointless...
you would rather have a oneway to mount the gear then a slipper clutch?

[[HHR]iced-nmt]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
ah...
that's pointless...
you would rather have a oneway to mount the gear then a slipper clutch?

Thought about that too. Put it this way. Say I run a slipper, the only way that I can get the power to the ground is if I tighten it ALL the way down. So then say I start jumping. It'll pretty much defy the purpose of the slipper, because there wouldn't be enough slip to save any drivetrain parts.

Now say I have the one way. If the wheels spin faster than the engine, or, in this case, the CB/ Spur, then there is no resistance since it is on a one way bearing. Now, I start jumping, say I'm doing maybe 50mph. All I have to do is let off the throttle before it sets down, and as soon as it touches the ground, the wheels will in turn spin the drivetrain, but, the entire drivetrain will be free. There will be no resistance from the spur meshing with the CB, even if the clutch is engaged, since the truck is moving at just under 50mph, and the engine is maybe a bit past 1/4 throttle to just keep the nose up, which would be around 10000RPM. If this doesn't make sense tell me, it's early in the morning, so I'm not completely waken up.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

It makes perfect sense, but the oneway... :D

Whatever you prefer man,
but I still think you should get a slipper,
You don't have to crank it all the way down,
Just 1/8 turn from fully cranked.
That way, I am sure you can get all the power you need.

Even if the clutch is engaged when you land the jump with the slipper clutch, the clutch will slip when you land with no throttle.

[Insidious]

argh 20 pages, no doubt this will never be read...:(
anyway, my friend has a Nitro MT RTR. He hadn't used it for a long time, and when he ran it again the brakes werent working properly, so he took it to the hobby shop and got it fixed. Then he found out that the engine took like 50 pulls to get it started (i know this might be normal on an engine thtat hasnt been run for a while, but it still does the same thing a dozen starts later), and when he DID get it running, slightly touching the brake would instantly shut the engine down. If you so much as breathed on it the engine would die. The hobby store dude told him to screw in the little screw (i think its the idle speed one) and he also set the throttle trim all the way up on the radio, and now the car doesnt die when u hold brake, but if u hold it for 3-5 secs it dies. Also, when it starts, the car takes off at full speed without any input from the radio :confused: only to die at idle or low speed 2 minutes later. He's really pissed and now wants to sell the car:(

[YucA]

about the engine - If the sleeve and piston are still in good shape, tell him to get the manual for the engine, and adjust all the needles and screws to stock specs. This should atleast get the engine running. From there you can then tweak and fine tune the idle and top end... Wouldnt hurt to get a new glow plug either.

I have no idea about the radio problem. Sounds like he is getting signal from somewhere else, if it just does whatever it wants. New batteries, or different crystals might solve this. OR, it can also be that his reciever is ******... There are many thing that can go wrong in that area...

[[HHR]iced-nmt]

Steven - Tell me this, how much is your slipper cranked down with your TR12?

[Soloithz]

Originally posted by Insidious
argh 20 pages, no doubt this will never be read...:(
anyway, my friend has a Nitro MT RTR. He hadn't used it for a long time, and when he ran it again the brakes werent working properly, so he took it to the hobby shop and got it fixed. Then he found out that the engine took like 50 pulls to get it started (i know this might be normal on an engine thtat hasnt been run for a while, but it still does the same thing a dozen starts later), and when he DID get it running, slightly touching the brake would instantly shut the engine down. If you so much as breathed on it the engine would die. The hobby store dude told him to screw in the little screw (i think its the idle speed one) and he also set the throttle trim all the way up on the radio, and now the car doesnt die when u hold brake, but if u hold it for 3-5 secs it dies. Also, when it starts, the car takes off at full speed without any input from the radio :confused: only to die at idle or low speed 2 minutes later. He's really pissed and now wants to sell the car:(

If your engine shuts downs even with the slightest touch on the brakes then your idle adjustment screw(barrel stop screw)is set wrong. Check the servo linkage as well as it probably isnt setup right either. If you have to set the throttle trim to either extreme of the dial just to get it to work