Nitro MT and MT Racer Forum V2.0

[newnitrofan]

Hey I've kind of been toying around with the super front one way diff for the NMT. Anyone do this. What about a carbide ball diff. I just don't think the stock or heavy duty stuff is gonna hold up too well. I have bought the 13 tooth Heavy Duty smaller gear. I am more concerned about the spider gears.

[PonderJ50]

if you run a one way than how do you use brakes? ive thought through the mechanics of it and the brakes would ho nothing cause the one way would just let you roll

[newnitrofan]

I wasn't sure how a front one way works. All I was looking at was the fact that they are much more well constructed than the stock hpi stuff is all.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

you can't use front oneway in both front and rear, use it on front if you run on hugh 1/8th buggy track...

newnitrofan, you can get "HD" spider gears...
The ones for NRS4 3s are machined not casted and they are suppose to be "tougher"

anyways,
here is some new pics...
http://www.******.net/media/113_1327.jpg

http://www.******.net/media/113_1329.jpg

http://www.******.net/media/113_1330.jpg

http://www.******.net/media/113_1331.jpg

http://www.******.net/media/113_1333.jpg

[Mossdog]

Yes the RTR 3 bevel gears are far superior to the stock cast pot metal ones they put in the NMT. A relatively cheap and WISE investment for any NMT owner. I was chewing up spiders when running masher 2K tires until I changed over to the RTR 3 bevels, no issues since. Nice.

[Kenny123]

Can I use a pilot shaft engine in the Nitro MT? If yes what will I need?

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

hehehe...
what kinda shaft do you think is in my nmt??? :D

You need adj. mounts and flywheel from wolfpack radicals
AND
a clutch nut and clutch kit from ofna if you want to run 2speed bell.

It is advisable to move your breaks to the front while you are doing this. :)

[newnitrofan]

Hey everyone,

I have been waiting on a big azz shipment to get my .21 project underway and the time has finally come. I have stripped my NMT down to chassis only. I am working on the slipper clutch right now. Well I took the old stock spur assembly and I need the bushings off of the old one for the new. Problem I am having is that when I try to loosen up the allen bolts on the outdrives I guess they won't budge. I have actually watched an allen wrench totally twist in shape as these things just won't turn. I am thinking of heating them up in the oven and getting them hot so the threadlock will release. Is this the right thing to do. Later

[fuzzy2133]

heat will do the trick most of the time. the last resort is to drill the screw out and save the part. or just get another one and save the time.

[Knappster]

i had the same problem...i twisted one allen wrench and snaped one.....i just used a hair dryer on high for like a minute and it came rite out

[newnitrofan]

Hey everyone some pics of what I did today. I have done a lot to it but I have a lot more to do. Can't wait to get it going. Later everyone. Yeah the pic quality sucks I know.

[newnitrofan]

Today I installed Proline shock towers, Lunsford Titanium turnbuckles with RPM Heavy Duty Ball Cups Pro line adjustable shocks, Upper Radio Tray, Slippre Clutch, Ofna Vented rotor disc brake. HPI Heavy Duty 13T Diff Gear and yes that took me all day damnit. Was a lot of fun though.

[Razornmt]

hey newnitro dude, get on aim sometime and im me @ razornmt ....

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

um... proline shocktowers?

you sure you don't mean powerline?

[newnitrofan]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
um... proline shocktowers?

you sure you don't mean powerline?

Ummm yes that's what I meant, I'm thinkin u know that but thanks for pointing it out. I was tired when I posted last night.

[newnitrofan]

Little did I read when I was ordering parts for my truck that it said 1/8th pipe and header set. Damnit if it doesn't fit at all. OH well that's what ebay's for. Later

[[HHR]iced-nmt]

Originally posted by newnitrofan
Little did I read when I was ordering parts for my truck that it said 1/8th pipe and header set. Damnit if it doesn't fit at all. OH well that's what ebay's for. Later

You are putting in a .21 though... .21s are made for 1/8s, whats the problem?

[newnitrofan]

Well something of the Header and tuned pipe configuration just didn't work out. Either the header was scraping the tire or the pipe wasn't just quite right. It all just seemed too big for what was there. It was just a dry fit however I am going to try it one more time when I get my motor mounts for sure.

[brassmonkey1234]

Originally posted by newnitrofan
Today I installed Proline shock towers, Lunsford Titanium turnbuckles with RPM Heavy Duty Ball Cups Pro line adjustable shocks, Upper Radio Tray, Slippre Clutch, Ofna Vented rotor disc brake. HPI Heavy Duty 13T Diff Gear and yes that took me all day damnit. Was a lot of fun though.

All day?! :p That woulda taken me around 2 hours. Was it the e-clips holding ya up? I hate thsoe... What kinda pipe did you get? Any .21 pipe should fit, maybe it wasn't all te way into the coupler?

[brassmonkey1234]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
you can't use front oneway in both front and rear, use it on front if you run on hugh 1/8th buggy track...

newnitrofan, you can get "HD" spider gears...
The ones for NRS4 3s are machined not casted and they are suppose to be "tougher"

anyways,
here is some new pics...
http://www.******.net/media/113_1327.jpg

http://www.******.net/media/113_1329.jpg

http://www.******.net/media/113_1330.jpg

http://www.******.net/media/113_1331.jpg

http://www.******.net/media/113_1333.jpg

Running striat from the engine ports? nice.

[newnitrofan]

Originally posted by brassmonkey1234
All day?! :p That woulda taken me around 2 hours. Was it the e-clips holding ya up? I hate thsoe... What kinda pipe did you get? Any .21 pipe should fit, maybe it wasn't all te way into the coupler?

Dude you would not believe me if I told you. OH well you asked, those rims I had on there weren't made to fit the MT at all. They have like way too wide of an offset to even work. I had to go and buy a dremel as I am way glad I did. I don't know what I have been doing without it all this time. Actually the stock hub adapters wouldn't quite fit into the drive part of the rim at all. I bought some miscellaneous parts from Ebay and luckily it included the perfect wheel adapters. Had to do some hackin on them but it worked. Also took me forever with the new turn buckles and ball cups I bought. The ball cups seemed to be too ong to make it all work so I had to cut them off some what. Newayz I got it all done though. OH yeah it was just a dry fit but it just seemed like it wasn't going to fit. Of course that was with the Masher 2K's on them. Later

[newnitrofan]

Hey just won some stuff off of ebay. I have no need for one of them. If anyone needs an aluminumn steering plate for the MT let me know. I bought the powerline whole assembly and have no need for this. I'd let it go like way cheep. PM me or email me for any interest.

[TJNMT]

sent ya a pM nitro dude

[newnitrofan]

Alright I made another dry fit and I think it's seroiously going to work. It just won't work with the masher's on it. OH well I'll figure something out.

[newnitrofan]

Pic number two

[Johnny5Rally]

I'm looking for a better engine for the SNR. One that has more power, but can't be too difficult to tune. So far I'm looking at the following:

OS .15 CV-RX w/10ER
HPI 15SS
EPIC .18 Slide Carb, SG Shaft, Pull Start
Fantom FR15 '03 Side Exhaust, Slide Carb, Pull Start

Of these four engines which will fit the SNR the easiest, i.e. least amount of modifications. It also shouldn't take more time to tune than actually run. Some have said that the HPI 15SS is a pain to tune, is it true? Any opinions would be appreciated.

Also which of the engines I mentioned above are compatible with the HPI/Hot Bodies Roto start backing plate? The pull start on the 15FE only lasted two pulls before I broke it, so whatever engine I get must be roto startable.

Thanks,
John

[[HHR]iced-nmt]

lol, this is a NMT forum, the SNR forum is just below...

Anyways, to answer your question - I would either go with the Fantom or the O.S. The Fantom will kill the O.S. in the high end, but, torque will be higher with the O.S., especially the .15CV-RX.

You want the roto-start to fit the engine? Umm, I haven't been to HPI's site in a while, but is it not only available for big blocks? And, isn't it MOSTLY compatible with Ho Bao (OFNA) engines?

The .15SS I wouldn't get. It really isn't all that great. Sure, for 100$ you can get a decent engine with lots of torque, but, I am one who would rather pay a little more, and get a lot more performance. (Or pay a lot more).

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Ti bumper from F4i

These will be available from F4i modelsport very soon

[PCC]

Originally posted by Johnny5Rally
Also which of the engines I mentioned above are compatible with the HPI/Hot Bodies Roto start backing plate? The pull start on the 15FE only lasted two pulls before I broke it, so whatever engine I get must be roto startable. The 15SS and FR15 for sure should be compatible. I would guess that the Epic 18 would be, too, but there's a possibility that it doesn't. Of the engines you listed I would have to say that the FR15 would be a good bet.

[doesgo]

I've got an O.S. .12 CV-R out of an RC10GT I'd like to put into an NMT (which I don't have yet). The engine has a cut crank for the GT.

Is there any way to get that to work in the NMT other than buying a new threaded crank for it?

[PCC]

Originally posted by doesgo
Is there any way to get that to work in the NMT other than buying a new threaded crank for it? Nope.

[nitecrawler]

New Picco motor and pipe is awesome!
Non-primer tank has solved stalling probs, and holds a bit more fuel.
Not much HPI stuff left tho'!

[nitecrawler]

dirty...i know

[Soloithz]

Originally posted by Johnny5Rally
I'm looking for a better engine for the SNR. One that has more power, but can't be too difficult to tune. So far I'm looking at the following:

OS .15 CV-RX w/10ER
HPI 15SS
EPIC .18 Slide Carb, SG Shaft, Pull Start
Fantom FR15 '03 Side Exhaust, Slide Carb, Pull Start

Of these four engines which will fit the SNR the easiest, i.e. least amount of modifications. It also shouldn't take more time to tune than actually run. Some have said that the HPI 15SS is a pain to tune, is it true? Any opinions would be appreciated.

Also which of the engines I mentioned above are compatible with the HPI/Hot Bodies Roto start backing plate? The pull start on the 15FE only lasted two pulls before I broke it, so whatever engine I get must be roto startable.

Thanks,
John



John the I have the 15ss engine and i think its got a great blend of power and torque. It is a pain to tune or so i think. It is my first nitro engine so it is more than likely me that is the problem. The rotostart will work with the 15ss, I have it myself. They make one for the 21 and 15 just get the right one. The HPI website says nothing of the .15 size rotostart so just go to your LHS and get it. One important thing, your engine has to be a pullstart for the rotostart to work because the backing plate is different or something, not a 100% sure though.

[Johnny5Rally]

I think I've narrowed it down to the O.S. and the fantom. For mostly off-road use which would be better, top-end or low end? Also has anyone tried the roto-start plate for the OS? PPC - have you used the HPI/Hot Bodies roto start plate on the Fantom? Also where is the best prices for the Fantom? I don't see it on tower hobbies.

Thanks again,
John

[doesgo]

For an NMT I personally would rather have the low end power than the high end because the 4WD can make use of it, but the FR15 I had in my NMT last year....man, just listening to that thing scream was sheer joy. My O.S. .12 CV-R is nice, but it doesn't sing like a Fantom.

Given a choice, however, I'd probably snap up one of the O.S. .15 CV-RX slide carb pullstart engines on Tower for $125. In my experience O.S. is a little easier to tune and holds its tune a little better.

Then again, they revised the Fantom for 2003, so maybe it's on par with the O.S. Come to think of it, I can't remember the last time I heard a bad word about a Fantom engine.

Sheldon's Hobbies has Fantoms, I think you're looking at about $140 for a pullstart .15 of the 2003 version. They still have the 2002 models for something like $115.

As for the RotoStart....I used one on a Force 25 and wasn't impressed. Maybe they're better on small blocks, but if your engine is tuned well a couple yanks on the pullstarter should bring it to life every time. Easier than carrying around a RotoStart motor. I'd go with a pullstarter and a starter box combo over a RotoStart anyday.

But that's just me....

[PCC]

Originally posted by Johnny5Rally
PPC - have you used the HPI/Hot Bodies roto start plate on the Fantom? Nope, but the same Janapese company that makes engines for HPI makes engines for Fantom as well as a few other companies.

[Johnny5Rally]

PCC - thank for the info. If the same company makes both, then why is the Fantom so much better than the HPI? You'd think HPI would want their 15SS to match the Fantom. :confused:

[LT250R]

could someone help me with find the best pipe for a nmt with .21 with out clearince prolbems. any help would be great. THANKS

P.S quick reply would a gerat help because i'm going to the lhs THANKS :D :D

[newnitrofan]

Originally posted by LT250R
could someone help me with find the best pipe for a nmt with .21 with out clearince prolbems. any help would be great. THANKS

P.S quick reply would a gerat help because i'm going to the lhs THANKS :D :D

First thing one would need to know is whether it is rear or side exhaust. Also you can get more clearance if you move your shocks from front side of the shock tower to the back.

[LT250R]

it is a rear exhaust and the shock are aready onthe back side of the shock tower so the should not cause a problem

[PCC]

Originally posted by Johnny5Rally
PCC - thank for the info. If the same company makes both, then why is the Fantom so much better than the HPI? You'd think HPI would want their 15SS to match the Fantom. :confused: The 15SS has been out for a long time. That engine has been available since before year 2000 (when I got into this hobby). Back then Fantom didn't have nitro engines.

Did you notice that Fantom has rear-exhaust engines and now HPI has one, too? The only rear-exhaust engines HPI ever sold until recently were all .21's. That same manufacturer only recently started to make rear-exhaust engines. I'm expecting more companies to come out with RE engines, like Tamiya and Yokomo.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

http://www.******.net/media/115_1569.jpg


Wall Paper Size

http://www.******.net/media/115_1571.jpg

[fuzzy2133]

NMT_RACER_BOY - I take it you had some free time on your hands lately? Thats pretty darn cool.

[thetimboroni]

Hey everyone,

I'm the "new guy" to this thread. I've been running an electric Evader for almost a year now, and I've finally decided to move on to nitro. My friend from school is selling me his MT this week, and man am I stoaked! He says he broke in the engine well, and all it needs is a screw to hold the manifold in, and the pin to allow it to be 4wd.

I've read all the post in 2.0 (too lazy to read all in the original MT thread) and it seems to me there are many good qualities to this truck, but also many hop-ups and mods to be done to it. My friend said he really didn't mod it except for he got a new clutch bell. I think I will start off by ordering the parts necessary, a few spur gears, and probably bearings for the clutch bell (by this time, I'll be out of cash for the time being...).

Anyways, just wanted to say hello and let everyone know I'll be hoping to enjoy my stay in these forums...

Any suggestions as to what else to buy to start off with would be appreciated.

TIM

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

just make sure you can trust him...
there are alot of kids in this world that will lie to make money

[thetimboroni]

*chuckles*

[nitecrawler]

trying something different...

[nitecrawler]

another...
anyone done a beetle body?

[newnitrofan]

Nite Crawler nice shell, I too am looking to do something a little different for my Mt as well. I am not sure what yet but I do hope it to be unique. That's a great paint job.

[thetimboroni]

Indeed a job done well on that body Nitecrawler. Keep up the good work!

[[HHR]iced-nmt]

Pics of mine:

http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2936
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2937
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2938
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2939
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2940
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2941
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2942
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2943
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2944
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2945
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2946
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2947
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2948
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2949
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2950
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2951
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2952
http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2953

The best pics:

Lots of stuff - http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2937
Bottom View, I love it... - http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2939
Sick empty chassis view - http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2944
Cluttered - http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2946
Good top shot - http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2950
Cool angle - http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/download.php?id=2948

[TJNMT]

Now that is so SICK.

after looking at all those pics, I;m amazed at your work.
See people like you keep inventing new and amazing projects. We need more people like you out in the work place.

All I Have to say is, can I test drive that work of art??

If not, it's ok but I would love to see a video of it in action when completed.

Nice and Sweet Work

[riki]

nitecrawler-
awesome car!
who makes those tires? Also what fuel tank is that? thanks

[sharky]

okay ive been having so much trouble with these spur gears. When i first bought the car i stripped the spur gear within a week. Then i went out and decided to get a slipper clutch and managed to strip the spur gear on that. Now im seeking a metal spur gear, preferably one that is stand alone (not requiring slipper clutch) if they make it, so i come to the masters to seek advice. Also what are some good inexpensive shocks for the rear of my nmt. i got some for a duratrax but i dont like them as much as the powerlines. is there anything else that is cheaper but good. thanks- sharky

[doesgo]

Depends on your definition of "inexpensive".

Associated's are pretty good at $22/pair.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCJE8&P=7

A lot of people swear by the Kyosho Twin Caps which are also $22 for the "regular" ones.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSC42&P=7

[sharky]

yeah those kyshos look like what im going to go with... unless i find somthing cheaper lol.. thanks... one more thing.. what about a new clutch bell... a 14 or 15 tooth anyone got some suggestions or links. Still need help with that metal spur gear lol

thanks- sharky

[doesgo]

Nobody produces a metal spur gear for the NMT to the best of my knowledge. Gimpy (on several different forums) used to convert a Duratrax (I think) metal spur to work on an NMT, but I don't recall for sure what the spur was off of, nor what work he did on it to make it fit.

As for what bell to use, it depends on what kind of driving you do, how fast you want to go, what engine you're running, and what size tires you have. I'm still trying to determine the proper bell for myself. I think I'm going to start out with a 14-tooth and see how it goes. My local off-road track is pretty long and wide-open, so I think I need a higher tooth count to get more speed.

[sharky]

well my local track is an offroad track with plenty of jumps and a descent 70 ft straight away and i run 2 sets of tires.. the standard dirt dawgs and a set of bowtie prolines(which i use the most).. engine wise i have the standard 15fe, a os cv-rx, and i just got a megatech .16 (megatech i know.. gimme a break it was only 100)... i plan to use the megatech most often. I guess i try a 14t clutch bell too thanks

[sharky]

which 14t clutch bell are u looking at?

will the hpi do fine or is there a wiser choice?

[[HHR]iced-nmt]

Originally posted by doesgo
Nobody produces a metal spur gear for the NMT to the best of my knowledge. Gimpy (on several different forums) used to convert a Duratrax (I think) metal spur to work on an NMT, but I don't recall for sure what the spur was off of, nor what work he did on it to make it fit.

As for what bell to use, it depends on what kind of driving you do, how fast you want to go, what engine you're running, and what size tires you have. I'm still trying to determine the proper bell for myself. I think I'm going to start out with a 14-tooth and see how it goes. My local off-road track is pretty long and wide-open, so I think I need a higher tooth count to get more speed.

lol, notice the steel spur on my NMT? We make em here at Kolor-Kraft Titanium.

I'm gonna be running something like 17/43/17 in first, and 23/37/23 in 2nd. How often do you get to say that?

We have 52T and 49T steel spurs.

[sharky]

anyone know of a 14t of 15t clutch bell that will fit the MT just fine?

[sharky]

ill go with a duratrax 14t i guess.. how much for the 52t ti or steel spur gear? thanks

[doesgo]

SharkyThere are many makers of clutchbells that will work, I just use HPI's bells. As for which tooth count is best, I just don't know at this point. I don't have any recent NMT experience. I'm putting one together right now and am learning just like you. I do know the Fantom FR15 I had last year needed some gearing to get going, so I ran an 11-tooth bell. The Megatech and O.S. should have more torque than the Fantom and should be able to pull a 14-tooth, I'd think. Maybe even a 15-tooth.

Iced Sorry man, I've been out of the NMT scene for several months, when I left Gimpy was the only one making them. Glad to hear Kolor Kraft is making them now!

[nitecrawler]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by riki
nitecrawler-
awesome car!
who makes those tires? Also what fuel tank is that? thanks [/QUO

Tyres: Team Losi 'Mashers'

Tank: Kyosho VR 1, bolts straight in, and a bit bigger than standard.

Also-Kyosho Twin Cap Shocks, excellent and best VFM

[newnitrofan]

Heya everyone, I have a Rossi engine that I just picked up which I'm proud to say. I am however in need of a header that works with a rear exhaust motor that is a pull start. It is really tight quarters between the pullstart box and the exhaust. HELP
OH yeah it's a .21 motor if that matters.

[bomber 1]

Hello i am looking into getting one of these cars and i was wondering if they are good? are they durable? are there any weekness? is it worth the money? and any info would be aprecieted. thanks

[doesgo]

You're going to get biased opinions here, so take them with a grain of salt. Of course you'll get that anywhere you ask a similar question about any vehicle.

I like the NMT because it's 4WD, simple to work on, reliable, light, there are a lot of hop-ups for it and my LHS has parts for it on hand.

I've really enjoyed my 1/8 buggy, two different RC10GTs, and my Losi Triple-XNT, but after going through all those, I'm sticking with my NMT and my Savage. Nothing but smiles here!

Weak points? The front a-arms are a weak point, but I like it that way. They're cheap and easy to replace and their weakness can prevent other, more expensive and difficult parts from breaking. Oh, and a slipper clutch is virtually a necessity.

If you get an NMT, I'd suggest getting the NMT Racer rather than the regular kit or RTR. It comes with some upgrades (turnbuckles, slipper clutch, and a couple other things) and no engine. The stock RTR and kit engine is rather weak and has a one-needle carb and is ABN. Get the Racer and add your own engine and have some fun.

Or wait a bit for the NMT2 that's coming out, hopefully soon!

[sharky]

okay i was on my way to buy a associate rc10gt tuned pipe (32 dolla) from towerhobbies when i noticed right next to it they had this.... a similar in shape and form but half the price. (only 18 dollas) im sure this pipe will fit but will it give me descent performance for what i am buying.. and the way i look at it anything is better than the plastic tuned pipe i got stock lol.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBMH0&P=7

i also found some duratrax tuned pipes for 16 but i think they sucked...
and also they are referring to rpm in this associated pipe while the others mention pressure nippples.. what exactly are they referring to????

and one more thing.. what do i need to get this associated pipe mounted on to my car

[newnitrofan]

Well sharky the way I see it you are not going to have good backpressure coming from the pipe. Honestly I would upgrade to a pipe that has a pressure nipple installed on it. What they are referring to is a pressure nipple that builds back pressure off of the pipe to keep fuel pressure going. This feature would actually be considered your vehicle's fuel pump. Either that or I would stick with the stock pipe until you are ready to upgrade. I have learned one thing about upgrading. Don't buy a part that is way cheaper just cause it fits your budget. Buy the part that you will actually want and that will actually fit. You will spend twice the amount of money buying something twice and will only regain a fraction of the cost of shipping and handling and all that. But that's just my two cents. For any type of pipe like that you will need some sort of muffler stay. I got mine from Kyosho and bent it to shape.

[doesgo]

As for the cheap vs spendy pipe, read The Cold War on Tuned Pipes (http://home.comcast.net/~keubstudios/truck/rccb/pipes/pipes.htm). It'll tell you why that pipe is for rpm and the other one isn't so much. That'll help you make an educated decision.

Regarding the pressure nipple thing, some pipes have a fitting installed in the pipe that you put a fuel line onto that runs to your fuel tank. Others, such as with the AE pipe you're considering, just have a hole into which you insert your line. AE has been doing it for years and it works fine, many other manufacturers do it as well. So there's just no actual fitting on the pipe, but the function is the same.

[YucA]

if you dont hate ebay, check it out the RC10GT pipes. they always have they for sale.

[sharky]

cool thanks what part do i need to get to mount that associated pipe onto my mt???

[doesgo]

A wire coat hanger. :D

[sharky]

seriously thats it?? lol

well then im going to get that pipe, a 14t hpi clutch bell, now im in the shocks.. those twin cap kyoshos are nice for 22 and 33 but i found these kyoshos that may not be metal but then again they are only 14 x 2 dollas and are basically just like the hpi sport racing shocks but again the price point is unbelievable lol

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXV830&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXV831&P=7

and they in assorted colors lol do u guys think its worth it??

[doesgo]

Yep, I've used a coat hanger wire to hang the pipe on my old NMT and my RC10GT. Worked great in both cases.

Yeah, those shocks have aluminum caps but plastic bodies. Personally, I'd pony up a few bucks more and get the aluminum Twin Caps for 22/33 or Associated RC10GT shocks for 22/22.

[thetimboroni]

Hey all,
I got my MT today! I ran him a little bit, he needs some tuning and he also needs 4wd! haha (I bought it from a friend who took out the center dogbone) It had some acceleration problems but I think that's why. I'm gonna order that dogbone w/ cup joint, an air cleaner (because he's stupid and says he didn't want to run it with one on there) and also a fuel line filter as well as some After Run Oil. I won't have much cash after that, but my next cash flow will probably go into a slipper clutch.
Anyways, just thought I'd let you know I got him and that everything seems to be in good condition except a few rusted dogbones.

TIM

[Mossdog]

Run without an airfilter? Thats just silly! You might have a dead engine on your hands if he ran it much without a filter. Does it seem like it has decent compression? You should be able to lift the back wheels off the ground by the pullstart without the piston going over top dead center. Good luck, restore that NMT! :)

Sharky, like doesgo says, definately get shocks with aluminum bodies and caps, you will regret getting plastic shock bodys when it pops a cap in a bad rollover, and believe me it WILL happen and you will be upset, for the extra money its well worth going full aluminum on the shocks!

[newnitrofan]

Originally posted by doesgo
As for the cheap vs spendy pipe, read The Cold War on Tuned Pipes (http://home.comcast.net/~keubstudios/truck/rccb/pipes/pipes.htm). It'll tell you why that pipe is for rpm and the other one isn't so much. That'll help you make an educated decision.

Regarding the pressure nipple thing, some pipes have a fitting installed in the pipe that you put a fuel line onto that runs to your fuel tank. Others, such as with the AE pipe you're considering, just have a hole into which you insert your line. AE has been doing it for years and it works fine, many other manufacturers do it as well. So there's just no actual fitting on the pipe, but the function is the same.

Hey sharky sorry for the bad advice. I wasn't trying to steer ya wrong at all. Just didn't seem like a great configuration to me is all.

[sharky]

its cool.. i already ordered a rc10gt pipe, those cheaper kyshos shocks.. i dont care lol... and a 14t clutch bell.. be here monday

[sharky]

thanks for all or help thought mossdog, doesgo, and newnitrofan.. i greatly appreciate it.. im starting to like my little mt a lot.. but my t maxx is still king of my castle

[newnitrofan]

I ordered a pullstart .21 Rossi it got here and well two things are going on. I need to find a ruler so that I can get the right measurement for some riser plates. With the wolfpack mounts intsalled I can still rock the engine back and forth quite a bit on each side. I know 6mm is a good guess but this just isn't working let me tell you. Also I need some good header suggestions cause the pullstart and the exhaust port are so close together. I have a standard header that is just too big to get in there. I am going to try grinding down the bottom of the header today. Also does anyone know if it will hurt if I grind down the actual exhaust port where the header would connect. I took off the pullstart assembly and tried to put on the header I do have and it's too small but only by just a hair. I don't think it will hurt it. However I will take all kinds of precautions necessary. Thanks

[thetimboroni]

I ran my MT a little bit this weekend and the engine seems to be running fine. I'm gonna take it apart and do some check ups that RC Action recommends for used engines. I've already experienced the spur gear problems though.... what is that, a flaw in the design or something? Anways... I'll be ordering that air filter, a fuel line filter, the center dog bone w/ cup joint (my friend took it out and lost it... FOOL!) so I ought to be running 4wd pretty soon and I'll get to see it's real potential!

TIM

[newnitrofan]

Ya know I have just had no luck with this project at all. Of course I probably should have kept the motor I had and not sold it on ebay. Well I picked up a Rossi motor. Got the wolfpack mounts and well darn it the engine mount holes on the actual engine case are actually long for the wolfpack mounts. I am just stumped as to what kind of mounts would work now. Anyone know???

[thetimboroni]

I've already blown out a spur gear so I'm wondering how much the metal ones for sale here are... I looked on the Kolor Kraft site but it's "coming soon" heh. Please let me know.

Thanks,
TIM

[apoc_metal]

hey all, i'm gonna buy some stuff for my NMT and I was wondering which Motor Savers filter to get to fit the 15FE...?

What is the deal with CVD's? Do they actually add to performance?
They seem to be all convenience factor (which is significant... but I'm not about to spend 120 bucks on drives.... 30x4 right?) Maybe I'll just put in some extra o rings to hold my doggies in :)

As for the spur gear, I haven't messed mine up yet, but it is showing visible wear... it's chewed up considerably... I don't run it that much... is it worth getting the steel gear? or maybe a delrin one lol... doesn't kimbrough sell one that would fit? those look real nice...
maybe i'll just replace this one.
word... For anyone whos new to the NMT someone should make a sticky post with this website... it's very helpful:

http://nitromt.iwarp.com/list.htm

it shows what upgrades to get... and in what priority order... very useful

[doesgo]

According to the link you just posted, the Motor Savers filter you should get is #MS0212.

As for CVDs, they add efficiency, which improves performance. I prefer to stick with the brutally simple and cheap dogbones. The MIPs aren't as bad you you say, however, they're $33/pair at Tower. They do replace your axles though, so it's not like they're just a glorified dogbone.

Do you have a spur gear cover in place under the chassis? That can really help protect it. Otherwise invest in the slipper clutch for the NMT, it can really save your gears.

[newnitrofan]

Originally posted by newnitrofan
Ya know I have just had no luck with this project at all. Of course I probably should have kept the motor I had and not sold it on ebay. Well I picked up a Rossi motor. Got the wolfpack mounts and well darn it the engine mount holes on the actual engine case are actually long for the wolfpack mounts. I am just stumped as to what kind of mounts would work now. Anyone know???

Hey there Tim contact [HHR]IcedNMT. He has metal spurs available no problem. Just told me he's gettin in a fresh shipment. You will also want to get a Duratraxx hardened clutchbell or you will be stripping Bell's left and right. You may also want to pick up a slipper clutch they are invaluable.

[newnitrofan]

Originally posted by apoc_metal
hey all, i'm gonna buy some stuff for my NMT and I was wondering which Motor Savers filter to get to fit the 15FE...?

What is the deal with CVD's? Do they actually add to performance?
They seem to be all convenience factor (which is significant... but I'm not about to spend 120 bucks on drives.... 30x4 right?) Maybe I'll just put in some extra o rings to hold my doggies in :)

As for the spur gear, I haven't messed mine up yet, but it is showing visible wear... it's chewed up considerably... I don't run it that much... is it worth getting the steel gear? or maybe a delrin one lol... doesn't kimbrough sell one that would fit? those look real nice...
maybe i'll just replace this one.
word... For anyone whos new to the NMT someone should make a sticky post with this website... it's very helpful:

http://nitromt.iwarp.com/list.htm


it shows what upgrades to get... and in what priority order... very useful


Honestly man I would seriously only upgrade parts as needed. Metal spur would be a great investment or get a slipper clutch. If u get a metal spur you will need a hardened clutch bell. The first CVD's I would buy would be for the center one's. You could also save a little money and buy the HPI one's. I've heard better things about it anyways. If you do offroading you will want some better aluminum shocks cuz the stock one's have a tendancy to fall off. Hope that helps. Most questions like this I got answered through lookin at the forum. Also you could get gimpy's lengthed doggies they won't pop out on ya. Just my thoughts. Later

[doesgo]

I know there's been some interest in putting a larger tank in an NMT, so here's what I did. It's a regular OFNA 125cc buggy tank (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=OFNC3280&P=K) and some radio tray posts (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXBZA7). All I had to do is cut off the rear ear of my upper deck that normally the fuel tank mounts to and drill one hole in the chassis. The tank fits great.

Keep in mind this mod may render your truck illegal in some classes, but in open classes and for bashing, it's great!

Here's one picture to give you and idea, and if you want more click on the links below.

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank6.jpg

Picture 1 (http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank1.jpg)
Picture 2 (http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank2.jpg)
Picture 3 (http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank3.jpg)
Picture 4 (http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank4.jpg)
Picture 5 (http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank5.jpg)
Picture 7 (http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank7.jpg)
Picture 8 (http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank8.jpg)
Picture 9 (http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank9.jpg)
Picture 10 (http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank10.jpg)

[thetimboroni]

Newnitrofan:
I already have a metal racing clutch on my truck so once I get the metal spur I should be ok. I thought about a slipper, but once I have all metal gears will that make much effect? I mean will I get a little better acceleration?

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

did you paint the chassis and the pipe yellow?

[apoc_metal]

Originally posted by newnitrofan
Hey there Tim contact [HHR]IcedNMT. He has metal spurs available no problem. Just told me he's gettin in a fresh shipment. You will also want to get a Duratraxx hardened clutchbell or you will be stripping Bell's left and right. You may also want to pick up a slipper clutch they are invaluable.

How much are gimpies dog-bones? I may do just that... :)


I know the filter is MS0212 but I can't find it on tower hobbies' website... I tried to measure my carb opening... but I dunno how accurate that is... i also can't find the motor savers website so I can't verify the number... or get any info...

anyone know any good online hobby shops to buy this stuff from?
cheap obviously?

[doesgo]

Originally posted by NMT_RACER_BOY
did you paint the chassis and the pipe yellow?
No, I powdercoated it.

[newnitrofan]

Tim I am thinking that a slipper clutch may not be needed for having metal spurs. I don't actually have any metal spurs yet but have plans to get them. They are pretty cheep and Farris is a really great guy. Also I was talking about a duratrax Hardened Clutch bell. If you run the stock clotch bell the metal spurs will eat up your clutch bells all the time. You need one like Boy that link didn't work out. Just click on where it says this. Those are Ofna bells. Duratrax makes one I don't feel like searching for the bell right now.

Guy that had the question about air filters for motor saver check out this LINK (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0091P?&C=GMJ&V=MSF) To Tower. Should find everything you need. Look up Gimpy's profile should have a link to his page. He has prices and all that. Not supposed to do any advertising on this site at all. They from what I know are 2MM longer than the stock doggies and you won't have the problem of them popping out all the time. Would have been a good investment for me but I won a lot of parts off of ebay and got all but the Rear MIP Universal with it. So for $6.00 in rebuild kits I'm in business.

Dosego that is a sweet looking truck. Never would have thought to powedercoat the chassis at all. I think it looks really cool. I do plan to strip all of the purple off of mine though. LaterThis (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=hardened+clutch+bell&FVPROFIL=++&search=Go)

[doesgo]

Thanks newnitrofan!

I just blew a slipper spur in my NMT tonight, I'm starting to think about a metal spur gear!

[apoc_metal]

Is it even worth buying a new head for my 15fe or should i just spring for an OS or something?

The header is pricey (like 40$!!) and a new motor is only 120 or maybe 160... which- considering how crappy the 15fe is ... isn't much

What do y'all think? I bet it makes a real difference... no?

As far as O.S's go... i hear the 15 is crap... but the 12 cv-r is nice (or something...)

Doesgo... what kinda engine do you have? That black head almost looks like a sirio... :)
I don't wanna waste money getting parts for this engine if buying a new one is wiser anyways... I was about to buy an airfilter for this one too...

[thetimboroni]

Does anyone know what throttle return spring will fit on the MT?

[doesgo]

Personally, I wouldn't bother spending any money on the .15FE. It's ABN, single-needle carb, and its head is too small. It'd cost way to much to alleviate these inherent problems.

"The header is pricey"...do you mean a larger cooling head? Again, don't spend money on the FE.

I replaced my FE with a 2002 version Fantom FR15 and was absolutely amazed by the difference! Pretty much any engine is a step up from the FE.

I've never heard any O.S. engine is crap. The CV engines are ABN construction so I'd stay away from them, but the CV-R engines are awesome, either the .12 or the .15. I've had two .12 CV-Rs in RC10GTs and am running a .15 CV-R in my NMT now. I love them. They start great, hold a tune like crazy, idle well, good power, etc. Tower has them on sale for great prices, too. Last I checked a Fantom .15 with pullstart is around $145, I think an O.S. CV-RX (pullstart) .15 is around $130, and the .12 CV-RX is a little cheaper (the X just stands for pullstart in the O.S. line).

I think I just answered your last question, my engine is a .15 CV-R non-pull. I've got five 125cc tanks through it now so I'm starting to lean it out a little. Runs really nice!

I'd wait on a better filter until you get an engine. No point in spending $15 on a new filter only to find out it doesn't fit the new engine.

[doesgo]

Originally posted by thetimboroni
Does anyone know what throttle return spring will fit on the MT?
I just bought a couple different springs at the hardware store that looked like they'd work. Sure enough, one did.

I think Losi sells a prepackaged throttle return spring. Yep, here it is: http://www.ehobbies.com/1002-9377.html

[apoc_metal]

Originally posted by doesgo
Personally, I wouldn't bother spending any money on the .15FE. It's ABN, single-needle carb, and its head is too small. It'd cost way to much to alleviate these inherent problems.

"The header is pricey"...do you mean a larger cooling head? Again, don't spend money on the FE.

I replaced my FE with a 2002 version Fantom FR15 and was absolutely amazed by the difference! Pretty much any engine is a step up from the FE.

I've never heard any O.S. engine is crap. The CV engines are ABN construction so I'd stay away from them, but the CV-R engines are awesome, either the .12 or the .15. I've had two .12 CV-Rs in RC10GTs and am running a .15 CV-R in my NMT now. I love them. They start great, hold a tune like crazy, idle well, good power, etc. Tower has them on sale for great prices, too. Last I checked a Fantom .15 with pullstart is around $145, I think an O.S. CV-RX (pullstart) .15 is around $130, and the .12 CV-RX is a little cheaper (the X just stands for pullstart in the O.S. line).

I think I just answered your last question, my engine is a .15 CV-R non-pull. I've got five 125cc tanks through it now so I'm starting to lean it out a little. Runs really nice!

I'd wait on a better filter until you get an engine. No point in spending $15 on a new filter only to find out it doesn't fit the new engine.

Hey, great! Thanks for answering my questions! Sounds like a good idea...

I guess I'll probably get an OS 15 CV-RX ... I had heard that instead of a redesigned engine it was merely a bored out 12... and that it was causing problems reliability wise (or something)... that could have been for the 15 cv though. I trust your judgment since you have one (haha). $130 is a pretty good price for such an improvement!

Should I wait to upgrade the engine til I upgrade other parts? (priority?) Or should I just jump for it...? I suppose I would need a header and pipe with it... which would hike up the price. The T-maxx header works with the O.S. right? I've heard good things about that... and I could just get an Associated GT pipe... (what do you think...?)

thanks for your help so far!

[doesgo]

I've just barely got my .15 CV-R broken in so I can't really comment on its reliability based on my own experience, but I know of several others who really like theirs.

Any regular side-exhaust header will work on the CV-R. Word is the New Jersey Big Tube Header is the best, but the Duratrax (I think that's the one) is a close second and cheap, at only about $11. I think there's some discussion in this forum about it a while ago.

As for upgrades to handle the power, I think a slipper clutch would be wise, as would a header and AE Factory Team pipe, but that's really about it. Some of Mossdog's bumpers would be a very wise investment as well, they can really save your arms and body when you land bad. I know they saved me and B!!! last night at the track! (watch the "Abuse" video at www.slapmafro.com)

You don't HAVE to get a header and pipe, but you'll be choking the engine if you don't, so you'll be down on power. The stock manifold and pipe choke any engine really, even the FE, so don't blame the CV-R for that need! Just adding an HPI header to my FE really helped wake it up some way back when I had a basically stock NMT.

[newnitrofan]

Originally posted by apoc_metal
Hey, great! Thanks for answering my questions! Sounds like a good idea...

I guess I'll probably get an OS 15 CV-RX ... I had heard that instead of a redesigned engine it was merely a bored out 12... and that it was causing problems reliability wise (or something)... that could have been for the 15 cv though. I trust your judgment since you have one (haha). $130 is a pretty good price for such an improvement!

Should I wait to upgrade the engine til I upgrade other parts? (priority?) Or should I just jump for it...? I suppose I would need a header and pipe with it... which would hike up the price. The T-maxx header works with the O.S. right? I've heard good things about that... and I could just get an Associated GT pipe... (what do you think...?)

thanks for your help so far!

Apoc only one thing I'd like to tell you from experience is when you put anything over 1 horsepower in the NMT is that you will need to upgrade drivetrain parts as well as diff gears. Seriously a set of gimpy's dogbones and upgraded diff gears at least in the front would be wise. But that 's just my .02

[riki]

nitecrawler,

I can't seem to find that gas tank on the tower hobbies website. A bit odd because they are the main distributer of kyosho products. Can you give me a link or a part number? Thanks.

[apoc_metal]

I've done some posting on the unofficial hpi forums too (hpiforums.com).. they're a friendly bunch over there as well... the consensus there seems to be that the new Fantom is even better than the OS!! 1.25 hp and 40k rpm... i hear it rips...

however, I don't think I'm ready to upgrade the motor yet. I don't really know how to drive it well as it is, and I should really just run it more before I sink more cash into a motor... I'll just get a motor savers (#1045 i think... the FE has a 10mm carb, right?) and prolly a new header, pipe, and a fuel filter...

I also am planning on getting a XXX soon (birthday is coming up!) so I don't wanna spend too much cash on the motor if I don't need it...

good call on the d-train parts though...!

[fuzzy2133]

the 03' fantom .15 has more than enough power to make the slipper move, even when you have maximum pressuer on it. I melted 2 spurs because the slipper was not tight enough.

I have not ran into any drive train probablem yet, maybe soon though.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Originally posted by apoc_metal
I've done some posting on the unofficial hpi forums too (hpiforums.com).. they're a friendly bunch over there as well... the consensus there seems to be that the new Fantom is even better than the OS!! 1.25 hp and 40k rpm... i hear it rips...

however, I don't think I'm ready to upgrade the motor yet. I don't really know how to drive it well as it is, and I should really just run it more before I sink more cash into a motor... I'll just get a motor savers (#1045 i think... the FE has a 10mm carb, right?) and prolly a new header, pipe, and a fuel filter...

I also am planning on getting a XXX soon (birthday is coming up!) so I don't wanna spend too much cash on the motor if I don't need it...

good call on the d-train parts though...!

hehe i have a nmt and gotten a XXX recently, i just love it!
The cleaness and quiteness of electric

[doesgo]

Originally posted by fuzzy2133
the 03' fantom .15 has more than enough power to make the slipper move, even when you have maximum pressuer on it. I melted 2 spurs because the slipper was not tight enough.
How tight do you recommend? I've got a .15 CV-R and melted the spur on the first tank, I'm wondering what a good starting point is for the slipper.

[TJNMT]

mine is set at a 1/4 turn out from totaly tighten and that is with a .15 cvrx

[doesgo]

Cool, thanks for that information. My Tower order will be arriving today with a couple spurs, can't wait to get back out there to do some bashing!

[PCC]

I would not recommend a slipper clutch on the NMT with any engine that makes over 1HP but if you insist on running it then lock the slipper down. It will still slip, but not as much and this will save the plastic spur from being melted from the heat that the slipping slipper clutch will generate.

[LearjetMinako]

The NMT isn't really met to handle an engine with 1+HP. Things will tare apart in front of eyes. Well anyhow, long time no post. My NMT is still down :( . Drivetrain parts are still broken and began to disassemble the thing. But here a question: Have any of you/gals seen the new NMT 2. I came across it while looking for a new 4x4 truck/buggy/monster truck. I came across at Tower Hobbies in the Nitro Truck RTR menu. check it out, the description isn't up yet but is it something new or just a change?

[doesgo]

The NMT2 looks pretty good to me! Hobby People is already discounting the NMT, I'm guessing it's because of the forthcoming NMT2, and Tower is showing limited quantities of the NMT I believe. My LHS already has the NMT2 wheels and tires in stock, can't wait to see an entire NMT2 in person.

You can find out more about it here: http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=140981

According to RCNitro, my .15 CV-R puts out something like 1.03hp, I'm very hopeful I can make it work reliably in my NMT. I've got filled diffs, upgraded gears, slipper...maybe I'll end up with Gimpy's dogbones and a steel spur?

[fuzzy2133]

right now my slipper is all the way tight and has been fine for 1/2 gallon. I am going to keep working with it and see if I can add some washers or something to get more squeeze on the slipper pad.

[Soloithz]

Hey guys just want some input on a new engine. I have the .15 ss and I think the piston/sleeve may need replacing. I get 2 "tight spots" instead of the usual one at the top of the stroke. If it needs replacing then am I better off getting a new engine? I was looking into an .18 size engine perhaps the Orion Wasp. This .15 ss was a pain to tune, or was it just me? She's been through a couple of overheats. One serious one as well (330 F). I got about a gallon and a half through it. Any suggestions? I'm looking for something easy to tune or keep tuned and similar power or a bit more. Not looking to upgrade the drivetrain if at all possible. Thanks

[doesgo]

O.S. .15 CV-RX for $109 at Tower.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBHL3&P=7

[nitecrawler]

Originally posted by riki
nitecrawler,

I can't seem to find that gas tank on the tower hobbies website. A bit odd because they are the main distributer of kyosho products. Can you give me a link or a part number? Thanks.
sorry for late reply.
don't know number, but it's the tank from a VR1

[nitecrawler]

pretty sure its tower p.no LXXG55

[newnitrofan]

Originally posted by Soloithz
Hey guys just want some input on a new engine. I have the .15 ss and I think the piston/sleeve may need replacing. I get 2 "tight spots" instead of the usual one at the top of the stroke. If it needs replacing then am I better off getting a new engine? I was looking into an .18 size engine perhaps the Orion Wasp. This .15 ss was a pain to tune, or was it just me? She's been through a couple of overheats. One serious one as well (330 F). I got about a gallon and a half through it. Any suggestions? I'm looking for something easy to tune or keep tuned and similar power or a bit more. Not looking to upgrade the drivetrain if at all possible. Thanks

Dude I would seriously tell you to look into like an Epic .18 or a Fantom engine. God wouldn't a Fantom .18 be sweet. The Fantom is cheep on rebuilds too. Good luck with that.

[apoc_metal]

I just won one on ebay for 3.75 :)
I am looking at a few pipes,
a few RC10 GT ones and a few Paris rippled ones
any suggestions there?

[1stPlace]

Does anyone no anything about the new HPI RTR Nitro RS4 MT 2 that Tower Hobbies is selling. Will F4I parts fit this Nitro MT 2 and is it 4WD?

[Kenny T]

the NMT2 will be 4wd, for more info look at the 2004 new mroducts forum.

Has anyone tried putting masher 2000's on this truck? :)

[doesgo]

On which truck? The NMT or NMT2? If the NMT, yes, there are tons of folks out there with M2Ks on them.

[Kenny T]

Either of the trucks, but they are very similar aren't they, just a new engine and a few touch ups.

Is it easy adjusting the gearing to fit m2k's, I know it's very hard to gear the m2k properly on the eMT.

[doesgo]

They seem similar, but there are a few changes and since the NMT2 isn't out yet nobody can say for sure if M2Ks will fit the new one or not. I expect they will.

It's pretty easy to gear for tires and the operating characteristics of the engine on the NMT. you can go from an eleven-tooth clutch bell all they way up to 15-tooth with just bolt-on parts, and you can even use a modified 2-speed clutch bell to get more teeth than that if you want monstrous top end (if your engine can pull that kind of gearing). There are also a couple different spur gears from which to choose, too.

[AllenJO]

Here's a press release that's buried on HPI's own website:

http://www.hpiracing.com/press/pr10401.htm

I've been running a Picco .15 (1.25hp) in my NMT for about a year and a half and haven't broken, bent, or stripped anything major. Had some trouble with the spider gears in the rear diffs but switching to the RS4 3 gear set, and sealing the diffs and filling them with silicone oil, solved that. I use a slipper set at 1/6 turn out. Have never melted or stripped a spur gear, or twisted a dogbone or CVD.

[Shawn300]

How durable is the rotostart system for the nitro MT?

[Shawn300]

the flywheel on the engine from http://www.hpiracing.com/press/pr10401.htm looks like it has the old one from 100000000 years ago that only worked on the FE engine. The updated one looks nicer but is there a difference between the performance of the two?

[Shawn300]

what do you guys think is the best gas tank for the MT besides the original primer button one?

[Soloithz]

Originally posted by Shawn300
How durable is the rotostart system for the nitro MT?

Shawn the rotostart is awesome its way better than that tiresome pullstart and its less luggage than a starter box. its only $50 or so, so its not expensive either. It uses a 7.2v stick battery for power. Supposedly if you have the rotostart you dont have to prime the carb which I have yet to experience only because I have had a bad piston and sleeve all this time. They have backplates that will work with the savage engines(.21-.25) and also a size that fits a .15 engine. You'd have to ask your LHS or HPI exactly what engines they will fit. Mine works with the HPI 15 ss. I have the backplate on order to fit my new Savage SS as well, cant wait!

[thetimboroni]

My birthday is coming up soon and I'm asking the parents for a Tower Hobbies gift certificate. I am wanting to drop a new engine in my MT. I've seen many posts here about people loving the O.S. CV-R .15 I am curious though if anyone has tried to put this in the MT.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDAK4&P=7

I know a guy who has the T-Maxx with this in it, and I'm really wanting one in my MT...heh.

If not, I'll probably just stick to the O.S. but I'd like some pipe suggestions. Associated pipes seem pretty good in my opinion but I'd just like some folks w/ experience to give me their opinion. (Also manifolds)

I'll be putting a slipper in my MT as well just because I've already lost a spur and this one I have now seems to be waring down quick. I think w/ a faster engine it will eat them up even more.

Thanks,
TIM

[Shawn300]

Originally posted by Soloithz
Shawn the rotostart is awesome its way better than that tiresome pullstart and its less luggage than a starter box. its only $50 or so, so its not expensive either. It uses a 7.2v stick battery for power. Supposedly if you have the rotostart you dont have to prime the carb which I have yet to experience only because I have had a bad piston and sleeve all this time. They have backplates that will work with the savage engines(.21-.25) and also a size that fits a .15 engine. You'd have to ask your LHS or HPI exactly what engines they will fit. Mine works with the HPI 15 ss. I have the backplate on order to fit my new Savage SS as well, cant wait!

Thanks soloithz , i have a fantom .12 02` but the backplate is the same as the FE, where can i get it and does it come with a 7.2stick?

[Shawn300]

Originally posted by Soloithz
Shawn the rotostart is awesome its way better than that tiresome pullstart and its less luggage than a starter box. its only $50 or so, so its not expensive either. It uses a 7.2v stick battery for power. Supposedly if you have the rotostart you dont have to prime the carb which I have yet to experience only because I have had a bad piston and sleeve all this time. They have backplates that will work with the savage engines(.21-.25) and also a size that fits a .15 engine. You'd have to ask your LHS or HPI exactly what engines they will fit. Mine works with the HPI 15 ss. I have the backplate on order to fit my new Savage SS as well, cant wait!

Thanks soloithz , i have a fantom .12 02` but the backplate is the same as the FE, where can i get it and does it come with a 7.2stick?

[Shawn300]

never mind that ? i asked about the rotostart, i found it ..hotbodies makes it for the mt specially and its on ebay jus type in HPI MT ROTOSTART

[RCRACER2471]

Originally posted by thetimboroni
My birthday is coming up soon and I'm asking the parents for a Tower Hobbies gift certificate. I am wanting to drop a new engine in my MT. I've seen many posts here about people loving the O.S. CV-R .15 I am curious though if anyone has tried to put this in the MT.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDAK4&P=7

I know a guy who has the T-Maxx with this in it, and I'm really wanting one in my MT...heh.

If not, I'll probably just stick to the O.S. but I'd like some pipe suggestions. Associated pipes seem pretty good in my opinion but I'd just like some folks w/ experience to give me their opinion. (Also manifolds)

I'll be putting a slipper in my MT as well just because I've already lost a spur and this one I have now seems to be waring down quick. I think w/ a faster engine it will eat them up even more.

Thanks,
TIM

The traxxas 2.5 wont work with the MT. Doesnt have the correct crankshaft in order for it to work. The O.S will do you just fine. There one of most reliable engines out there.....

[[HHR]iced-nmt]

http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=15492

lol, need I say more?

[[HHR]iced-nmt]

:mad: Wanted to have the pic right on the forum, sorry for double post ;)

http://www.******.net/media/100_1734.jpg

[doesgo]

Originally posted by RCRACER2471
The traxxas 2.5 wont work with the MT. Doesnt have the correct crankshaft in order for it to work. The O.S will do you just fine. There one of most reliable engines out there.....
The TRX 2.5 will go into an NMT, it's just not a direct bolt-in. I know of two people who've done it, one of them a good friend of mine.

That said, however, I'd MUCH rather go with an O.S. CV-R engine than a TRX 2.5.

[thetimboroni]

What do you guys think about the O.S. CV-RX rather than the CV-R? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBHL3&P=7

I'm thinking about getting that because it's cheaper, and then I could buy a nice tuned pipe w/ that cash.

TIM

[thetimboroni]

Also, if I get an O.S. what is a good manifold that will fit the MT? I'm looking at pictures of manifolds that turn 180 degrees ( Ex: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3429&P=7 ) and it seems to me that won't work on the MT if the exhaust hole is on the side of the engine... (I can't tell in the picture where the exhaust hole is so I could be wrong)

Anyways.. help w/ this would be appreciated because I'm sick of seeing my friend run his car and me having so many problems w/ my stock Nitro Star...haha

TIM

[doesgo]

The X just means it has a pullstart. So whether it be CV-R or CV-RX, both are awesome engines! I wouldn't hesitate to buy one.

[thetimboroni]

OH ok thanks... I knew that the CV-R didn't have a pull start but I didn't know if that was the only difference. Yea I'm definately gonna buy the CV-RX then...

THANKS
TIM

[thetimboroni]

doesgo:
I looked back a few posts when you mentioned the new tank size and I saw a picture of your manifold coming off of your O.S. engine... what manifold is that?

Thanks
TIM

[newnitrofan]

Well the engine I had planned for my NMT got stolen along with a bunch of other hop ups I had in a tool box that was in my truck in a locked building, Explain that one?? Newayz I am serioiusly scrapping the whole.21 thing for now and am going to run with a good sized .18 and see how I come out. I may go with the new Fantom .18. What do you guys think.

[doesgo]

Originally posted by thetimboroni
doesgo:
I looked back a few posts when you mentioned the new tank size and I saw a picture of your manifold coming off of your O.S. engine... what manifold is that?

Thanks
TIM
That header is a New Jersey Big Tube Header. Many people believe it's the best one out there for making good torque, but the less-expensive Duratrax header is nearly as good and about half the price. I think this is the one, but I'm not sure: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAXN1&P=7

I can't find a link to the NJBTH right now, sorry.

HPI also makes a side-exhaust header that'll work, but it's short and won't build as much torque as the Duratrax or NJBTH.

[Mossdog]

Yep thats the one Doesgo. I ran that header with the CV-R on my NMT on the GT pipe. Makes for real good low-end. One thing though. The casting and weld on the inside is quite nasty.(was on mine atleast). I used my rotary tool to clean up the inside of the header to de-burr it, and ported slightly to match the OS better. Crazy torque even with 14-15T bells on the 52spur. With the 14T and mashers I was spinning out of the hole, then I killed my diffs. :D

[Mossdog]

Yep thats the one Doesgo. I ran that header with the CV-R on my NMT on the GT pipe. Makes for real good low-end. One thing though. The casting and weld on the inside is quite nasty.(was on mine atleast). I used my rotary tool to clean up the inside of the header to de-burr it, and ported slightly to match the OS better. Crazy torque even with 14-15T bells on the 52spur. With the 14T and mashers I was spinning out of the hole, ended up finishing off my diffs......... :D

[Shawn300]

will this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPZ08&P=7 work on the fantom .12 02` s.e ps?

[jimbonj]

Originally posted by Shawn300
will this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPZ08&P=7 work on the fantom .12 02` s.e ps?

That one points in the wrong direction. Get the Duratrax header.

[Shawn300]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by jimbonj
That one points in the wrong direction. Get the Duratrax header. [/QUOTE
haha thanx jimbonj i should have noticed that one lol...] :rolleyes:

[Shawn300]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by jimbonj
That one points in the wrong direction. Get the Duratrax header. [/QUOTE
haha thanx jimbonj i should have noticed that one lol...] :rolleyes:

[thetimboroni]

What bumper will fit the MT... I've seen some guys use a Duratrax one, but not exactly sure which one it is...

Thanks,
TIM

[newnitrofan]

Dude for a great bumper get a hold of mossdog. www.mossdog.freeservers.com He makes very strong rigid plastic bumpers for the NMT pretty cheep or you could go with a powerline one. The powerline bumper is nice and all however in a crash it will bend and u will be out the money you paid for it ya know. I went with Mossdog's bumper. Later

[wilson_bryant]

for some reason my right rear mip cvd is not going all the way inside the diff. it didnt do this when it was new. could the stock arms have stretched or bent one way so it would not be in all the way???

thanks

[doesgo]

The end shouldn't be all the way inside the diff cups, it should be somewhere in the middle at ride height so it can slide in and out as the wheels travel up and down in relation to the truck.

[doesgo]

I agree about Mossdog's bumpers, they've saved many an a-arm on my NMT and my buddy's NMT as well, and probably saved other stuff, too! They're great bumpers.

[wilson_bryant]

i understand that it shouldnt be all the way inside the diff cup but the end dosnt even near 1/4 the way in and when driving it comes out and makes a grinding noise.

[newnitrofan]

If anyone is interested in a hopped up NMT roller pm or email me. Later

[zero sk8er]

Hey everyone im planning to replave the stock engine with this: O.S. .15 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBHL3&P=7)

If i buy that engine, what other parts will i need to buy?
Also can you guys recomend hop-ups to go with it? How fast can i expect my truck to be after i break it in?

[Shawn300]

hey do you have ne pics of ur nmt roller?

[Shawn300]

if you are putting it on the mt and its ur second engine go with that engine with the rotary carb version and you wont need to buy anything besides engine mounts

[zero sk8er]

Thanks can you post links to the engine mounts? And do you think i need to buy any hop ups to handle the power? My mt is stock.

[wilson_bryant]

i would get the MIP CVDs the stock dogbones twisted with my .15 CV-X. and a Slipper clutch. unless you like to buy spur gears. unless you have the racer verson then what i have listed you already have.

[zero sk8er]

Thanks heres what im getiing so far: MIP CVD's, slipper clutch, os cv-rx .15, and an HPI engine mount <<will this work?

[wilson_bryant]

do you mean these (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXN373&P=0) or these (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLR3&P=0) i am pretty sure that both will wok with your engine. i got the cheep ones and they work fine.

[zero sk8er]

I was planning on getting the mounts in the first link. I've just noticed that they don't come with screws to mount the engine. What screws would i need?

[Shawn300]

dont get those, ill post links in a couple hours or better quality ones , those are cheesy and might not hold out long to ur engine.

[Shawn300]

here is the web sites for the mounts mount 1 (http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/catalog2.cgi?got=yes&cat=140&car_id=10&man=all) and mount 2 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ61&P=7)

[zero sk8er]

Thanks shawn im going to get the powerlines in your second link, those look very nice.

[doesgo]

Originally posted by zero sk8er
Thanks heres what im getiing so far: MIP CVD's, slipper clutch, os cv-rx .15, and an HPI engine mount <<will this work?
Yes, that should work great. I've got a .15 CV-R in my NMT and other than spur gears I haven't had any durability issues relating to the drivetrain. I've melted two spurs in my slipper clutch, even with the slipper locked down. I need to look into that.

I'd also suggest HPI's racing clutch, racing pullstart flywheel, a Duratrax header, and an AE factory team RC10GT pipe. None are necessary, but each will make a nice performance improvement over stock parts.

[zero sk8er]

I'll check those parts out :cool: .

[zero sk8er]

Hey everyone i changed my engine choice from the cv-rx to the
cv-x. The reason is because I need the money to buy other hop-ups. Is this engine better than the stock engine? I've heard plenty of good things about the cv-rx, but i just don't have the money for it :(. Also do u need bigger fuel lines to fit a fuel filter? And one more thing can you guys point me to another good pipe thats under the ae team pipe price? Thanks i just noticed how expensive the total was after adding it all up, which is the reason i have to have everything cheap lol.

[Shawn300]

this pipe should work out okpipe (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBMH0&P=7). The engine ur talking about is the same as the stock one in terms of power and speed. The only difference is the cv-x is ABC construction i believe and the hpi is cheap crappy nickel.

[zero sk8er]

Ok thanks im going with the rpm tuned exhaust and the cv-x. Do you guys have any tips for removing screws with threadlock on them?

[Shawn300]

push down hard and turn.....:confused: ?

[[]-[][]D[] MT]

i'm gonna put a Traxxas 2.5 engine in my nmt. i have two questions about it though.
#1 how fast will it go?
#2 will it pop wheelies?

[wilson_bryant]

Personally i think the O.S. is alot better then the stock FE.

[zero sk8er]

Thanks everyone for all the help ;).

[Shawn300]

i really dont think you can do wheelies nomatter what u have in ur MT. Ive come to get the wheels to jus about lift off but i had to take out the front center drive shaft. Try it and let me know.

[nitro_mt_racer]

I'm going to have a local machine shop machine a 3/16" 6061-t6 aluminum chassis for my nitro mt racer. If anyone is interested in one please email me direct metz@wcoil.com. The more they make the less they'll cost, if I can get 10 or more they'll be less than $25 each.

[thetimboroni]

Hey all,
I just got my T-Hobbies order in today! I put the engine on today and put the slipper together. I can't wait to break it in tomorrow! I'll give you guys and update on how it runs... until then, here's a list of the stuff I've just installed on my MT:

O.S. .15 CV-RX Slide Carb.
Slipper Clutch Kit
Racing Clutch
Duratrax Manifold
Throttle Return Spring
Blue Hard Shock Springs

I plan to boil the A-arms for more give... I figure w/ more power from that engine then I will be needing it.

TIM

[doesgo]

Nice parts list! Have fun.

[doesgo]

Originally posted by []-[][]D[] MT
i'm gonna put a Traxxas 2.5 engine in my nmt. i have two questions about it though.
#1 how fast will it go?
#2 will it pop wheelies?

1) Faster than stock, but it'll be no rocketship.

2) No.

I've got a good friend who did this and he's not terribly happy. It's reasonably powerful, but I think he kind of wishes he had put in an O.S. .15 CV-R or '03 Fantom .15. His TRX isn't bad, but it runs a bit warmer than he'd like and the performance isn't what he expected.

It's not a direct bolt-in either, unlike the O.S. and Fantom.

[H-Trainer]

Hello

I have some speed charts for my SNR on my website. The part for the single-speed SNR with Dirt Hawgs does apply to the NMT as well. The speed calculationgs take the final ratio and tire size into account, but engine revs (32'000RPM) are given. Of course, no engine will rev that high with a tall gearing.

H-Trainer's RC Modeling Website - Speed Charts (http://www.h-trainer.ch.vu/hp_modifikationen_e.html)

Besides that, my upgrade list for my SNR is 80% the same as for an NMT.

[thetimboroni]

Is this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCKN6&P=7) just as good as this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3428&P=7). From the picture it seems like it will put out lots of torque. I do notice a slight difference in size, and I mean VERY slight.

THANKS
TIM

[Shawn300]

the black one is a little bit longer according to specs (1/8") so you might have just a little bit less backpressure.

[fuzzy2133]

unless you have a dyno you may not see any difference.

my 0.02

[Mossdog]

I would say there would be little difference, not noticable. Either will be nice with the CV-R, your gonna have a blast with that NMT thetimberoni. :cool:

[slaf]

Hi all !

I just bought an used HPI Nitro MT and I have few questions....


1) Do TMaxx wheels fit on a NMT ?

2) Any good .21 conversion kit recommanded ?


Thanks !

[Shawn300]

tmaxx wheels dont fit the MT, ive tried this. The .21 conversion is not reccommended but ive never heard anything about it being a bad thing, im sure you will be very happy with your results. LOTS AND LOTS OF POWA!

[Tim'sLosi]

Boil all the plastic suspension parts and buy the hardened steel diff gears...you'll need them!!!!!!!!!

[zero sk8er]

Hey everyone parts just came in a few days ago. I got a few questions.

1. Where do you put in the fuel filter?
2. My fuel tube is too small to fit snugly in my associated RPM exhaust. What should i do?
3. I got a receiver pack to replace my alkalines. It seems that the plug from the pack only fits into the receiver slot, but not to the switch. If i plug it into the receiver, that wouldn't work, so what should i do?

Thanks :cool:

[Shawn300]

Originally posted by zero sk8er
Hey everyone parts just came in a few days ago. I got a few questions.

1. Where do you put in the fuel filter?
2. My fuel tube is too small to fit snugly in my associated RPM exhaust. What should i do?
3. I got a receiver pack to replace my alkalines. It seems that the plug from the pack only fits into the receiver slot, but not to the switch. If i plug it into the receiver, that wouldn't work, so what should i do?

Thanks :cool:

you attach the fuel filter by cutting the fuel line that goes from ur tank to the engine and put it in between the two pieces. doesnt matter which way it goes.
The reciever pack is made to be plugged into the receiver, when u have a battery pack, you dont use the switch. (BEC). You can buy bigger diameter fuel tubing to put into the pipe, my friend did it but i dont know too much about the pipe part. Hope i could help ya out a lil.

[ALJR]

Originally posted by slaf
Hi all !

I just bought an used HPI Nitro MT and I have few questions....


1) Do TMaxx wheels fit on a NMT ?

2) Any good .21 conversion kit recommanded ?


Thanks !

1) no. if you want larger tires, try the proline 2.2" masher 2k's

2) wolfpack radicals makes the best motor mounts to do the conversion... the hpi savage flywheel also makes the instal easier, as it sits closer to the engine case. allowing you to run a two speen with little or no mods...

[zero sk8er]

Hey shawn thanks for the help. Well i finally got everything done, mounted my new exhaust and header, fuel filter, and slipper clutch. Now all i need is to mount the new engine, which is also my final problem. When i try to put it in, the engine mounts seem to be a little off to the right of the truck, and and is a little to the back. I think the problem is that the shaft is a bit longer than the stock shaft that the stock fe has?? Heres the link to the engine: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBZ30&P=7

Do i need to buy anything else, or modify anything to make it fit in? If you guys need me to explain a little more, just tell me, thanks.

[Shawn300]

if your engine sits too far back try adding a couple washers to the crankshaft before you put the flywheel on. When i bought my .12 fantom i had to use my rotozip and trim my crankshaft just a little bit. I imagine you would need to do the same seeing most engines come with a crankshaft thats a little bit longer than needed. Better too long than too short i guess.

[dmrcflyr2]

I have not had the time to scroll through this entire thread, but I just bought a Nitro MT from Hobby People for $179. I figured for that amount, what the heck? Any issues or problems with this truck that I should have known about before I purchased it? I think it is the original release, pre-updated .15FE engine. I do not plan on using that engine I have a rear exhaust XTM .18 to put in it.

Is there enough clearance behind the engine for the rear exhaust manifold? I really only need about 1/2-3/4 inch.

Any parts compatibility with the HPI Type 3 SS? I know this was the platform from which the Type 3 SS was designed from. I plan on using/abusing this truck for front yard/street bashing only.

Any feedback would be appreciated.

[doesgo]

You can move the rear shocks to the rear of the arms and shock tower, I think after doing so a rear-exhaust engine will work. Never done it myself, however.

Can't help you on the other question though.

[mooey1232003]

The Nitro MT at hobby people is the updated version with the purple heatsink.I bought mine there 3 weeks ago.

[dmrcflyr2]

mooey1232003,

Really? That is cool to know. I thought it was an older version. Why else would they be so inexpensive? You can't tell me just because it has a Ford body it is $10 cheaper than the Chevy. That would be silly.

So, how does the updated .15 FE run? Is it powerful, easy to tune, propel the truck at a high rate of speed? Maybe I will use it. It was just going to be a doorstop seeing as I have the XTM .18 to drop in. Of course I also have a 2.5... but I know HPI kits require short shaft only engines.

[newnitrofan]

The current NMT kit is so cheep because they are making room for the NMT2.

[PCC]

Originally posted by dmrcflyr2
I have not had the time to scroll through this entire thread, but I just bought a Nitro MT from Hobby People for $179. I figured for that amount, what the heck? Any issues or problems with this truck that I should have known about before I purchased it? I think it is the original release, pre-updated .15FE engine. I do not plan on using that engine I have a rear exhaust XTM .18 to put in it.

Is there enough clearance behind the engine for the rear exhaust manifold? I really only need about 1/2-3/4 inch.

Any parts compatibility with the HPI Type 3 SS? I know this was the platform from which the Type 3 SS was designed from. I plan on using/abusing this truck for front yard/street bashing only.

Any feedback would be appreciated. I personally feel that any engine over 1.5HP will cause the NMT to wear out faster than it should.

Yes, the two cars share parts: Both diffs and their housings, and the center drive. The two-speed for the NRS4-3 will drop right into a NMT but it will be geared really tall. The NRS4-3 planetary gears inside the diffs are stronger than the potmetal gears inside the NMT diffs unless they have revised this over the years. I believe that the outdrives on the NRS4-3 are about as good as the HD ones for the NMT but the ultimate outdrives for the NMT/NRS4-3 are the Nitro Rush ones.

[zero sk8er]

if your engine sits too far back try adding a couple washers to the crankshaft before you put the flywheel on. When i bought my .12 fantom i had to use my rotozip and trim my crankshaft just a little bit. I imagine you would need to do the same seeing most engines come with a crankshaft thats a little bit longer than needed. Better too long than too short i guess.
Do you think i can switch around the whole slipper clutch so i can make more room so the engine can sit a little farther up? If not i'll just, cut the crank shaft, because it sounds like the best idea. Thanks again.

[Shawn300]

Originally posted by dmrcflyr2
I have not had the time to scroll through this entire thread, but I just bought a Nitro MT from Hobby People for $179. I figured for that amount, what the heck? Any issues or problems with this truck that I should have known about before I purchased it? I think it is the original release, pre-updated .15FE engine. I do not plan on using that engine I have a rear exhaust XTM .18 to put in it.

Is there enough clearance behind the engine for the rear exhaust manifold? I really only need about 1/2-3/4 inch.

Any parts compatibility with the HPI Type 3 SS? I know this was the platform from which the Type 3 SS was designed from. I plan on using/abusing this truck for front yard/street bashing only.

Any feedback would be appreciated.

boil ur front a arms, they are a bit fragile. theres not too much parts compatibility besides the flywheel and header(side exhaust only). The brake is the same too.thats all i can think of, hope i helped u out a lil bit.

[dmrcflyr2]

I am still blown away by the price of this kit. Tower has it listed for $269 and I bought it from Hobby People for $80 less.

As far as parts compatibility I was thinking dog bone drive shafts, differential parts, outdrives, bearings, things like that.

Any more specific feedback regarding the engine? Is it the single needle carb? Is it easy to start? Good acceleration/top speed? To me the engine seems like the weakest link. It has a 'boxy' inefficient header.

I think due to the presence of a pullstart, a rear exhaust engine will fit in just fine.

[ALJR]

Originally posted by zero sk8er
Do you think i can switch around the whole slipper clutch so i can make more room so the engine can sit a little farther up? If not i'll just, cut the crank shaft, because it sounds like the best idea. Thanks again.

yes, you can flip around the slipper clutch to move the engine forward.. but why would you want to do this? are you running a .21 engine? there should be pleanty of room to fit any small block .15...

another thing you could do, rather than flipping around the center spur gear (and this option is great if you have a 2spd that can't be switched around). is use the hpi savage flywheel! the savage flywheel sits up against the engine, where as the nmt flywheel sticks out about 3/8"! this option is only good if your using pullstart motor mounts, as the savage flywheel has the same (or very close to it) diamater as the pullstart nmt flywheel...
this is how i fit an ofna force .25 w/ pullstart! in my nmt w/ a 2spd!!

[PCC]

I posted this yesterday.

Originally posted by PCC
Yes, the two cars share parts: Both diffs and their housings, and the center drive. The two-speed for the NRS4-3 will drop right into a NMT but it will be geared really tall. The NRS4-3 planetary gears inside the diffs are stronger than the potmetal gears inside the NMT diffs unless they have revised this over the years. I believe that the outdrives on the NRS4-3 are about as good as the HD ones for the NMT but the ultimate outdrives for the NMT/NRS4-3 are the Nitro Rush ones. And this was posted today.
Originally posted by Shawn300
theres not too much parts compatibility besides the flywheel and header(side exhaust only). The brake is the same too.thats all i can think of, hope i helped u out a lil bit. Kinda contradictory, eh?

[zero sk8er]

Originally posted by ALJR
yes, you can flip around the slipper clutch to move the engine forward.. but why would you want to do this? are you running a .21 engine? there should be pleanty of room to fit any small block .15...

another thing you could do, rather than flipping around the center spur gear (and this option is great if you have a 2spd that can't be switched around). is use the hpi savage flywheel! the savage flywheel sits up against the engine, where as the nmt flywheel sticks out about 3/8"! this option is only good if your using pullstart motor mounts, as the savage flywheel has the same (or very close to it) diamater as the pullstart nmt flywheel...
this is how i fit an ofna force .25 w/ pullstart! in my nmt w/ a 2spd!!

I need to move the engine forward because my new engine has a slightly longer crankshaft than the fe.

[ALJR]

Originally posted by zero sk8er
I need to move the engine forward because my new engine has a slightly longer crankshaft than the fe.

that shouldn't make a differance! put a couple of shims (thin washers) behind the flywheel.. that will move the flywheel and clutch bell out closer to the tip of the crank shaft.. or if you need to move it back, just remove some washers from behind the flywheel...

[zero sk8er]

Ok thanks ill try the washers idea.

[nitecrawler]

Hello MT'ers
how many teeth are you guys running?
I've got a Picco.15, which is much better than stock. Would 14 t be about right? And still use the middle hole on the clutch shoes?
Thanks

[doesgo]

Yes, I think those are great starting points.

[ALJR]

Originally posted by nitecrawler
Hello MT'ers
how many teeth are you guys running?


23 on the clutch bell and 39 for the spur!

to be exact, 19/23 cb and 43/39 spur, i have a 2spd in mine...

[doesgo]

Don't forget about the Force 25 part of your equation, ALJR! You might be misleading the folks just a bit! :D

[zero sk8er]

Ok i finally mounted the engine, im going to break it in tomorow because its night time right now. Well heres the questions. Is there a certain length of how much the fuel line goes in the pipe? Also is it ok if the flywheel rubs against the disk brake?

[ALJR]

Originally posted by doesgo
Don't forget about the Force 25 part of your equation, ALJR! You might be misleading the folks just a bit! :D


ohh ya... hehehe :D

[doesgo]

Hey ALJR, do you have a website depicting your truck and all the mods done to it? If not, would you mind taking the time to list it here? I'd love to know what needs to be done to an NMT to handle .25 power.

[ALJR]

Originally posted by doesgo
Hey ALJR, do you have a website depicting your truck and all the mods done to it? If not, would you mind taking the time to list it here? I'd love to know what needs to be done to an NMT to handle .25 power.

the drivetrain is stock! i just shimmed the fr/rr diffs perfect and packed them with automotive bearing grease...

ill see if i can get some pics up later today...

[doesgo]

Wow, I'm very impressed the truck is able to handle the power! Stock dogbones? What wheels/tires are you running? Chassis? Upper deck? What conversion kit did you use, assuming you used one?

I've got a Force 25 on the shelf right now that could use a home...

[ALJR]

here are a few pics for ya..

the body was free amd i painted it with left-over paint! so no comments on its quality :)

[ALJR]

another...

[doesgo]

Oh man, I'm dying for details! Very impressive machine.

What adapters did you use/make to put the buggy whees on there?

Did you make or buy that shock tower brace that goes from front to rear? I've been considering making something like that.

[ALJR]

another

[ALJR]

the top brace, 1/8 wheel adapters and motor mounts are from wolfpack radicals. i used a savage flywheel and header. this made it allot easier to fit the .25 in. the savage flywheel sits right up against the engine and the header has a tighter bend in it...

i am running mip cvd's all around (except in the left front where i broke one during a crash)...

there is also a 2spd installed, running 19/23 and 43/39 geraring.. this is as small as i could go witht he spur gears! any smaller and the engine would touch the rear center dogbone... if i could find larger clutch bell gears. i would be all set. but no one makes them larger than what i have... the clutch bell/2spd is fron a type ss!

the chassis and upper deck are from megatech (gpm, powerline, megatech, there all the same material... get which ever one you can get cheeper)....

here is a pic of the 2spd gear mesh.. its a tight fit w/ the .25 but every thing works great! you may also have to file a very little of the pull starter housing so it won't interfear with the hingpin

[ALJR]

last one...

[NitroCrackers]

does anyone have a stock plastic front and rear arms of the nitro mt? maby some old broken ones, it doesnt matter as long as its all there! please email me if you do so we can work sumtin out.
(im workin on a lil project here...):)