Nitro MT and MT Racer Forum V2.0

[fordman]

dmrc, I think the flex you are seeing is in the stock radio tray b.c the chassis is pretty ridgid, and can testify that it IS able to take a beating off-road. Most of the guys on this forum and I run aluminum(or titanium) radio trays like this one from Powerline:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ51&P=7
it stiffens the chassis up, and improves braking

[dmrcflyr2]

Thanks Fordman. I am gradually going to install several after market items. Turnbuckles, maybe the 2-speed, racing clutch, etc. 2mm just seems a little on the thin side for an off-road vehicle. Perhaps this radio would provide enough additional support to offset the need for the HD chassis.

[slaf]

HI all !

I have a stock Nitro RS4 MT and I'd like to change the header, do you have any suggestion for me ?

Can I install TMaxx wheels on my MT ?

[doesgo]

The $27 New Jersey Big Tube Header is arguably the best header for a side-exhaust NMT, but the Duratrax header is nearly as good and far cheaper at $11 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAXN1&P=7)

No, T-Maxx wheels won't bolt directly onto an NMT, and even if you could, that's a ton of weight you're trying to spin without the help of gearing and/or a 2-speed. The largest I'd recommend going is Pro-Line Masher 2000s on regular 2.2" wheels.

[slaf]

I plan to change engine, is OS Max .15CVX is a good choice ? I heard that .15CVR produce too much power for the NMT drivetrain....IS this true ?

[doesgo]

No, there are many people running CV-Rs in their NMTs, including me. Get a slipper clutch, lock it down, shim your diffs, and you should be fine. There are other suggested upgrades (Rush outdrives, on-road RS4 diff gears, etc.) but the diff gear mesh and the slipper clutch are the most important ones.

[fordman]

I know you can't put on T-maxx tires, but I have seen guys running with 1/8 buggy rims/tires on their trucks. how do they do it? any suggestions?

Personally I like the duratrax header. it's bigger, cheaper, and nothing else on my truck is blue like the NJ header

[ALJR]

Originally posted by fordman
I know you can't put on T-maxx tires, but I have seen guys running with 1/8 buggy rims/tires on their trucks. how do they do it? any suggestions?

Personally I like the duratrax header. it's bigger, cheaper, and nothing else on my truck is blue like the NJ header

wolfpack radicals makes the 1/8 buggy tire conversion..

[doesgo]

The NJBT header comes in several colors (I've got a silver one myself), but if I were buying one I'd just get the Duratrax as well.

I think Wolfpack Radicals makes adapters to put 1/8 buggy wheels/tires on an NMT. ALJR (on this forum) has them.

[slaf]

Originally posted by doesgo
No, there are many people running CV-Rs in their NMTs, including me. Get a slipper clutch, lock it down, shim your diffs, and you should be fine. There are other suggested upgrades (Rush outdrives, on-road RS4 diff gears, etc.) but the diff gear mesh and the slipper clutch are the most important ones.

I can't install a slipper, I have a 2 speed :(

[slaf]

Can I install my RC10GT AE engine .15 SG Shaft into my NMT ?

I'm sorry guys to ask all those "stupid" questions, I know well my GT but I just got an used NMT ....

[doesgo]

With some creative parts sourcing I'm sure you could put an SG shaft engine into an NMT, but I've never done it personally. I don't see why it wouldn't work.

Are you putting a different engine into your GT?

[slaf]

Originally posted by doesgo
With some creative parts sourcing I'm sure you could put an SG shaft engine into an NMT, but I've never done it personally. I don't see why it wouldn't work.

Are you putting a different engine into your GT?

Yes, an OS .15CVR or Fantom .15....

I checked my NMT, and I'll need to buy engine mounts (do Nitro RS4 engine mounts will fit ?), and may be some other stuff to fit SG shaft.

[thetimboroni]

Do you guys have any suggestions on tuning during the winter time? Understandibly, all engines are different as far as that goes, but just whether it's better to run it lean or rich, and where to set the idle around.

Thanks,
TIM

[fuzzy2133]

in colder weather you want to run on the rich side to take advantage of the extra oxygen in the air and depending on the tempature a warmer plug.

[Shawn300]

hey guys im lookin into sg shaft engines too and i was wondering how you would install one and how they are different from threaded shaft engines. Id like to know how to assemble the flywheel n cluch n that kind of stuff. this may sound like a stupid ? but hey im still learning. Thanks.

[[HHR]iced-nmt]

Wow, I haven't posted on here for a while... Just figured I would post a pic of my truck I took a week ago. The Savage wheels and tires are just there for pics, normally Mashers are on there.

It's pretty much done, I just need some spurs as I am not satisfied with the current gearing - 18/44/18 in first, and 23/41/23 in 2nd. Anyways, enjoy:

Scroll down about half way. And yes, it'll be worth it, also the first post by me at the top of the page. Cool pic there too.

http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=564&start=720

[ALJR]

Originally posted by [HHR]iced-nmt
Wow, I haven't posted on here for a while... Just figured I would post a pic of my truck I took a week ago. The Savage wheels and tires are just there for pics, normally Mashers are on there.

It's pretty much done, I just need some spurs as I am not satisfied with the current gearing - 18/44/18 in first, and 23/41/23 in 2nd. Anyways, enjoy:

Scroll down about half way. And yes, it'll be worth it, also the first post by me at the top of the page. Cool pic there too.

http://forums.rcinfo.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=564&start=720

sweeet truck iced! what dogbones are you using (center, f/r?)?? thats allot of power for the stockers!

[fordman]

I can't seem to find those wolfpack 1/8 wheel adapters anywhere. my usual LHS doesn't stock parts from them.
any help would be appreciated

[doesgo]

www.wolfpackradicals.com

[[HHR]iced-nmt]

ALJR - The drivetrain is as follows:

I am not sure if I want to use 45/41 spurs or 47/43. I am leaning towards the 45/41 so that the drivetrain is a little happier. 18/23 is the CB.

The spurs are plastic, which is the weak link. From there, front and rear are Kyosho 1/8 dogbones. Nice and thick. Same length, as I am running an extended chassis. Which also happens to be widened and made of 4mm thick titanium :rolleyes: The center cups are Thunder Tiger and I am using two OFNA fiber rotors in the front.

The center tranny is a Wolfpack Radicals 2-Speed. The HPI one has trouble with 1hp engines, let alone a couple of 2.5hp engines (Claimed, lol, but I've run them in other trucks. The 2.5hp isn't that far off.)

The differential cups leading to the tranny are Kyosho 1/8s as well. The differential is fully HD. 13T HD pinion, 38T HD crown gear, shimmed very nicely with Rush outdrives and RS4 3 spider gears. I have them filled with 50,000wt Kyosho diff fluid. Diffs are sealed obviously.

The dogbones were the main problem. I wanted to use 1/8 outdrives and axles, so that I could use 1/8 dogbones as well. The outdrives were not a problem, but the axles were. I COULD fit 1/8 axles in there, but only on a single bearing. (I am running rear arms in all 4 corners along with C-Hubs and steering knuckles in all 4 corners as well, 4WS will come soon enough). I am not about to rely on a single bearing so I stuck to the stock NMT axles. I plan on replacing them every tank or two if lucky.

The dogbones are custom made on a lathe. Takes about 40 minutes to do each. I just had them finished today. They are 1/4" in the center, and 3.6mm where they go into the outdrives and axles. 1/4" would not fit through the C-Hubs. lol. They are made of solid steel, so they should hold up for a couple tanks as well. Again, I will have it geared so that at WOT the front end just lifts off about an inch or so, so that its is a bit easier on the drivetrain, and doesn't wheelie all the time.

That is about it I believe. The dogbones that I will have after these 3.6mm ones snap wil be 4mm. I just had too much filed off, so I got 3.6mm.

P.S. What's left stock? A couple M3 screws and the diff cases. If there were alloy ones I would have them.

[Locus]

Quick question for all of you Nitro MT and MT Racer guys out there. I've been considering purchasing one of the MT Racer kits for a long time now. I researched all the info about the regular Nitro MT and the MT Racer.

Now I have the MT 2 out there. Can anyone shed some light on this new truck and the major differences with the MT Racer. Which one would be better purchase the MT 2 or the MT Racer

Thanks, Locus

[Shawn300]

what are you going to be doing with it? like using it at the track or just for bashing?

[Locus]

Originally posted by Shawn300
what are you going to be doing with it? like using it at the track or just for bashing?

Probably both....got a trace about 1hr south of me.....considering racing some if they allow 4x4's to race.

Thanks, Locus

[Kenny T]

I'd take the NMT racer and buy a nice engine for it. The NMT racer is better spec'd than the NMT2, the NMT2 has a better engine than the NMT (not racer) and the NMT2 has a different shock mounting position. The NMT2 comes with a slipper but the NMT (not racer) doesn't. NMT2 has more shock travel, has better braking and has stronger gears and larger dogbones. The racer has CVD's, dunno about the brake though and I believe it has the weaker gears.

That's all I can see now, sorry if it's a bit hard to read but I was considering the same question, I've partially made a decision. I'd take the NMT racer.

[Shawn300]

i would probably get the nmt2 because from what i heard it is a lot more reliable then the mt and mtracer. The racer and nmt2 have the same brake but the drivetrain is stronger on the mt2. I would go with the mt2 if u want something that is going to last longer. You can always add a couple upgrades to get it as good as the racer.

[Kenny T]

These upgrades you talk of would cost a lot in AU$ so I take the NMT racer, If it weren't as expensive as it is then I'd take the NMT2.

[newnitrofan]

http://www.rcnitrotalk.com/gallery/data/500/2321Picture_012.jpg
http://www.rcnitrotalk.com/gallery/data/500/2321Picture_008.jpg
http://www.rcnitrotalk.com/gallery/data/500/2321Picture_007.jpg
http://www.rcnitrotalk.com/gallery/data/500/2321Picture_006.jpg

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Ok, I have a very sweet nmt,
and a week ago, i found a person who was looking to trade their fairly new stock savage 25 rtr for a 10th offroad. I told him what it includes and stuff and he wanted to trade, so we decided too.

He sent his engine back to hpi because the backplate came off and we decide to ship the truck when he has the engine.

I am getting second thoughts, should i trade or not?
Here are some pics of his truck and mine

My truck with extensive hop up list
http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=19339
My truck package
http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=19340

The savage package
http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=19341

should i? should i not?

Let me know!!!
I really need some help in this decision

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

o ya, you need to change the ****** to "r c p i c s"

[newnitrofan]

Well NMT I would really tell you one thing. Make him swear to you on all that is holy that everything works. I know your NMT from pics I have seen that is nothing short of sweet. That savage is nice but it is totally stock. On the other hand it is just a NMT not worth anything but about $200.00 maybe $250.00 if on ebay. So this may not be a bad deal. I totally got screwed on a savage ebay deal. Oh well what'cha gonna do. Let me know what you do. I am looking for a good savage engine right now.

[M16-A2]

I received the first order of 52 and 49T steel spur gears! My site has been updated with all the info, and please feel free to email me at gimps_2k2@yahoo.com with questions.
Price is $29.99 each and the gears are compatible with a slipper clutch or 2-speed.

http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/MetalSpur_Page.htm

I have been extremely busy lately with college so I probably won't be checking this thread very often (email will get you a much faster response).

[punkrockracer]

what are pros/cons of the nmt2, i gave this as a choice for my x-mas gift along wiht hyper7 pbs, mgt, and savage25....IF i get this..what do i need to watch out for? what will i have the most fun with? anything needed for bashing in the grass? also what is a good set of tires for it?

[Tim'sLosi]

This may have been discussed b4 BUT...Who makes the best chassis for the NMT? I want strength over lightweight.
Thanks! Tim

[AllenJO]

I have the Powerline chassis. 4mm thick. Available via Tower Hobbies.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

F4i motor sports makes the best chassis hands down!

Anyways, thank you for the kind words newnitrofan

[punkrockracer]

what are pros/cons of the nmt2, i gave this as a choice for my x-mas gift along wiht hyper7 pbs, mgt, and savage25....IF i get this..what do i need to watch out for? what will i have the most fun with? anything needed for bashing in the grass? also what is a good set of tires for it?

maybe if you read it again i will get a reply

[doesgo]

What type of operating do you like? Grass, dirt, bumpy stuff, pavement, jumping, racing...? Each vehicle has its strong and weak points, so to recommend one we need more info about how you run your R/C stuff.

[Landmax2B]

Has anyone used the Megatech Gearboxes (front and/or rear)?

[[HHR]iced-nmt]

I have the GPM units, which are the same thing as the Megatech ones.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Edit - this forum is NOT for selling or linking to your ebay auctions. There are forums where that is appropriate and this isn't it.

[NMT_RACER_BOY]

Ditto

[Kenny T]

I finally got a NMT racer, it came with a wasp .12 se ps exhaust. I bought HD final gears (13t and 38t). I think I'll also get alu steering thingos (the things that go on the pilot shaft) and some m2k's. :)

[RS4rally1124]

hey guys i got my nmt2. its great. i want to geta lightweight nmt. my whole idea is centered around lightweight performance instead of all aluminum. read the whole thing yall have some great trucks. ttyl

JT

[Turbo Tin Can]

I cant find thsi spur guard anywhere, help?

"lexan spurguard from hpi nmt"

[doesgo]

Just cut out a piece of spare Lexan and use the spur gear housing screws to hold it on. That's all the HPI guard is anyway, a barely-molded piece of Lexan. I've had a basic flat piece of Lexan as my spur gear cover for over a quart and it works fine.

Bruce

[ultralord]

I have a dynamite .12s motor in my NMT it currently has a pull start but i want convert it to a roto start. I need a back plate that will fit a dynamite motor.

any ideah?

[ultralord]

i ran a search for info on this but couldnt come up with anything.

how do you do this? is the a thread with instructions and pictures somewhere?

[doesgo]

Kedar has it on his site which is here under "Diff Modz": http://www.kedar.itgo.com/tipz.html

[PSD]

what would be a good engine for the nitro mt. i was think of a siro .18 or hpi .18 ss

[PSD]

what would be a good engine for the NMT. I was think of the hpi 18ss or siro 18

[Kenny T]

They might have a bit too much power for the NMT. The stock gears can take engines upto 0.7hp. You might have to upgrade to HD gears. They would be good choices though.

[doesgo]

I've had good luck with my .15 CV-R which, according to RC Nitro, puts out right around 1hp. The diff upgrades are recommended, however, including sealing the diffs after adding silicone diff lube, RS4 gears, and the proper shims.

I'm going to drop in an Epic .18 soon, I'll post the results when I get some.

Anyone know who makes the HPI .18 engine?

[Kenny T]

Where exactly do the shims go?(outdrive shaft or the shaft in the middle of the diff?) Got the part number for them?

I've got HD gears, I'm planning on HD outdrives m2k's and a 18 CV-RX.

[doesgo]

Go to Kedar's site at http://www.kedar.itgo.com/rc.html and then go to "Tipz" and then click on "Diff Modz" for the info you need. The shim you need is a Z694 washer that's listed as "M5 x 10 x 0.5mm". It goes under the pinion gear. You'll need to add o-rings to the diffs as well, two in the diff case and two on the 38-tooth gear. The o-rings are #6823 and are 4.5mm x 6.6mm.

The on-road diff gears to get are #86014, and the Rush outdrives are a good investment.

Again, go to Kedar's site and he explains it all very well.

You're getting a .18 CV-RX? I've never heard of such a beast, is it new? I thought they only made the CV-R in .12 and .15 sizes.

[Kenny T]

It is pretty new, it was in the new stuff section a while ago. Since I get Japanese RC mags all the stuff in there is about a month before the news gets to America.

Thanks for diff info. :)

I've idled 2 tanks through the engine. Can't wait to get it running. :)

[Kenny T]

I'm thinking of a 21 conversion on my NMT. I've found adjustable engine mounts cheap and I've upgraded the gears to HD.

Which engine do you guys think is suitable? Hyper 21, Hyper 21 (8P) or OS 21RG?

[doesgo]

The RG-X is the best quality engine and easiest to tune, in my opinion. The 8-port is more powerful, but the quality control isn't too good.

The pullstarter with the 8-port is a LOT smaller than the one on the RG-X, I'm not sure that'll come into play or not. When setting an RG-X into my NMT's chassis, the pullstart hits the upper deck where it connects to the rear shock tower. The 8-port's doesn't do that.

[Kenny T]

I think I'll go with the RG then. I'll probably take the PS off, I should have a box by then.

[The_Evil_Racer]

Is aneone selling their MT????? if so then im me @ RacinMunky or e-mail me

[PCC]

YGM!

[Jackyl]

Has anyone had any problems with cvd's in the front of the nitro mt? I have aluminum a-rms/c-hubs/nuckles on my mt. and when I went to intall the cvd's in the front they went in ok. but the left side cvd doesn't go in the outdrive enough to make a solid connection it keeps poping out. And now some of the outdrive is warn from the bone poping in and out.

I added shims to the pinion and that was it. I hate the fact that they use c-clips to hold the things together is there anyway that I can resolve the bones poping out of the outdrives?

Is there a diff that will work in the nitro mt that does not use the c-clips ?



Here is an older pic of my mt. Since then I have bought the aluminum c-hubs/ mip cvd's for the rear/ gpm trans to diff cvd's/and the hpi SS hinge pin set, I also took all the ball ends and replaced them will captured ends. I had it out last night but when the front left bone would pop out of the outdrive the motor would unload and rev out. so it wasn't much fun till I get that issue fixed.

http://www.rcsites.net/jackyl/Rs4%20Nitro%20MT/RS4NITROMT.jpg

[jimbonj]

Try the outdrives for the Nitro Rush. That will solve your problem.

HTH, Jim.

[Kenny T]

About the captured ball ends, size do they have to be?

[Jackyl]

The captured ball ends that I used are traxxas part #2742

here is a link to them on tower's page.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJG69&P=7


You will need 14 of these ends to do the front and rear and the steering assemlby. But let me tell you once it is all done it's night and day vs cup&ball. I also opted to go with 4-40 hex head screw also so that everything uses the same screws.

[TJNMT]

Well Well, It's been around 5 months since my last run with my NMT. Now getting back into things and need some advice.

Would the .15cvrx been an easy and cheap investment to make just for a backyard basher. I know the last time I was on here, that was the hype along with some fantom engine.

2nd, I knew of a member that resized old P/S for about 25 bucks, if he is still around I would like to get in contact with him to redo a .15FE.

3rd What is all the hype now days.

Thank You for any replies

[TJNMT]

opps forget to mention about my hop ups if need be.

I got the diff mods with the rings and such, slipper, bearings in the clucth, so on and so on.

Need to bring it back to life and do a complete cleaning on this puppy, Spring time is right around the corner.

[Kenny T]

Thanks for the info Jackyl.

TJNMT,
1. The OS 15 CVR-X is fine, I'm thinking of taking mine from the RS4 3 and putting it in the NMT or getting a 21.

2. osrocket (John Bohland). I've got his email somewhere but I can't be bothered looking. Tell me if you want it, I'll have a reason to look then.

3. OS 18 CV-R(X) (for me anyways)

Hop ups, I want masher 2000's, a metal roll bar, a alu upperdeck and a skidplate bumper for the time being. BTW I have a racer spec so there maybe things I haven't put in here.

[TJNMT]

Kenny,

Sweet sounds good. That his name, osrocket. I talked to him a long time ago but never got around that. If you would please email is addy, that would be great.

.15 sounds great, I;ll have a look around and find price for one.

.18 huh, must be crazy, I;ll have a look and try to get up to speed with the hobby.

Thanks for the info

[Kenny T]

I think you can get the 15 CV-R for $109 at a few places, I don't know if it's still that cheap though.

The 18 CV-R(X) is rated at 1.5hp, I dunno if it reaches that though. These are should be about 170, 200 max. I want one.

[Kenny T]

osrocket@neo.rr.com is his email, I couldn't be bothered emailing you because my comp (Pent 2 233Mhz) is slow.

[TJNMT]

Awesome,

Thanks for the info

[Jackyl]

I took some pics of my truck and just though you ppl would like to see it.

http://www.rcsites.net/jackyl/Rs4%20Nitro%20MT/Img_0557.jpg

http://www.rcsites.net/jackyl/Rs4%20Nitro%20MT/Img_0558.jpg

http://www.rcsites.net/jackyl/Rs4%20Nitro%20MT/Img_0559.jpg

http://www.rcsites.net/jackyl/Rs4%20Nitro%20MT/Img_0560.jpg

http://www.rcsites.net/jackyl/Rs4%20Nitro%20MT/Img_0561.jpg

I need to get nitro rush outdrives to fix my front cvd issues then I'll tune the engine again and it'll sit on the shelf waiting for spring. yeah right :>

[Kenny T]

I wish my truck ran. :(

[Jackyl]

Does anyone know if these (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWC17&P=7) are longer than these ? (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM665&P=7)

As I'm trying to get the cvd bones to sit in the outdrives but they are right on the edge right now with 2 shims on the wheel side of the hub and I'm using the alloy c-hubs from powerline. I can't find a size for the outrdrives to compare them.

thx.

[PCC]

The parts you linked to are exactly the same parts except the HD sets are chrome plated. The outdrives you want are these (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVJ90&P=7). They're from the Nitro Rush, are heat-treated and longer than what you listed.

[Kenny T]

I got my engine running:), problem was a loose flywheel.:(

[M16-A2]

I've found these fix the whole popping out issue on the NMT:

extended dogbones (http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/Dogbone_page.htm)


All the NMT bashers I run with also use these:

Gears (http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/MetalSpur_Page.htm)

[Jackyl]

the bone would be easier dealt with if you had 10mm shims and nitro rush outdrives that would come to about 8bucks vs' alot more for new bones and then your left with an extra set of bones that you have no need for.

[carguy_no1]

i have a new mt2 and it is an ok truck but i have found that the new .15 engine is extremely difficult to tune. i will tune it just about right during one run but the next time i fire it up it runs like crap. it also seems to go through glow plugs terribly quickly. i am at loose ends and willing to do anything to solve my problem. if anyone has any experience with a similar problem some tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated.

[newnitrofan]

Carguy you should honestly set your needle settings back to factory recommended settings and retune from there. How are you tuning your engine right now. Are you just turning screws and hoping for the best or are you using a temp gun to help you out???

[carguy_no1]

no, actually i am using a temp gun. this is not a new task for me. this is actually my seventh nitro truck and by far the hardest to tune. i mean i can get it to run but it never runs at its peak potential for more than one run.

[Kenny T]

I'm a nitro newb but you could thread lock the engine screws so they don't move from the vibrations. You are saying that the carby doesn't hold a tune aren't you?

[fordman]

I had the same problem with my 15 SS when I first got it. I just put some silicone sealant around the carb and backplate, and it solved my problem. oh, and I've learned that the fuel tubing my LHS sells is very low quality. I bought a 5 foot section, and it already had more cracks than a nudist beach. this could also be causing the problem.

[Jackyl]

Has anyone put a trx 2.5 in their nitro mt ? I just got a 2.5 and I want to put it into my mt. but the ips doesn't allow for this to happen I was just wondering if anyone knows of a way to make this happen as I think this would be a killer engine for this truck.

[B!!!]

I put one in, but it wasn't exactly easy and I probably wouldn't do it again. If you want to know the particulars let me know.

[B!!!]

Picture:
http://www.yourarmsoff.com/images/trxnmtleft.jpg

[Jackyl]

Hell yeah. let me know what you did to get that to work. I have the same setup that you do. my problem is what did you use for a clutchbell? that is really about it? I had a cv-r in my truck and now I have this and I think the 2.5 will be a bit more powerfull.

how do you like yours ?

[B!!!]

I assume you have the TRX flywheel and clutch on there (because nothing else will work...), right? And the problem you are having is finding a clutchbell that will work with the MT spur yet is short enough to fit on the crankshaft. I couldn't find one, so I stuck a HPI bell on then end of a dremel and grinded bell material off until it was short enough to fit on.

http://www.yourarmsoff.com/images/trxout2.jpg

Doing this is a pain in the arse!

I'm actually not too happy with the engine overall. Like you I had high hopes for massive amounts of power, however I haven't really seen it with this engine. And it likes to run hot. It does seem to wind out quite far and go pretty fast though! Of course, you may have completely different results than me.

Good luck!

[Jackyl]

That looks pretty much like the stock flywheel/clutchbell that is on that engine when it is in a traxxas tmaxx? and the engine mounts are the aluminum hpi engine mounts I can see that. But I have a 2 spd and I would like to try and use that again. but it ends up that the clutchbell isn't long enough. With your setup is the gear mesh ok? or it isn't perfect?

I know that there is a 2 spd clutchbell for the nitro 4-tec that I'm going to check out. because with this engine rpm's the 2spd would be benificiall.

Please more information though. Thank You.

[C0NTENDER]

Sorry for the splatter guys, but I thought some of you should know what's going on with the HPI challenge this year if you don't already know.


Thanks for the question. We've been doing the standard HPI Challenge series for several years now and everyone's had a great time. In order to keep getting the race coverage in the magazines we need the series to evolve to keep up with the hot trends in the industry. So this year we will shift our focus a little to emphasize the Savage trucks.

We're planning two Savage Slam events that will be fun events like the one we did last year... racing, Savage Bowling, concours, long jump contests, barbeque, prizes etc. The idea is to get together for a fun truckin' event with friends and family. We're shooting for one event on the west coast and one event on the east coast, both in the Summer so that the whole family can attend.

For the HPI Challenge, we're planning one event with the format basically the same as in previous years (nitro and electric sedans), with selected winners getting a free trip to the HPI Challenge World Finals in Europe. The race will probably be in the Summer, somewhere in the middle of America.

If your not happy about this, please go to
HPI Challange (http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34825)
if you wish to make you opinion known.

[B!!!]

Originally posted by Jackyl
That looks pretty much like the stock flywheel/clutchbell that is on that engine when it is in a traxxas tmaxx? and the engine mounts are the aluminum hpi engine mounts I can see that. But I have a 2 spd and I would like to try and use that again. but it ends up that the clutchbell isn't long enough. With your setup is the gear mesh ok? or it isn't perfect?

I know that there is a 2 spd clutchbell for the nitro 4-tec that I'm going to check out. because with this engine rpm's the 2spd would be benificiall.

Please more information though. Thank You.

That is actually a HPI clutchbell. The stock one uses a different pitch than HPI does, so it won't work. I believe Traxxas use a 32 pitch and HPI uses a 1M pitch. If Traxxas doesn't use the 1M pitch then I doubt their 2 speed clutchbell would work.

The flywheel is the Traxxas one, also the clutch inside is Traxxas too. The HPI clutchbell has a little wider diameter, but I haven't found that to be a problem.

The mounts are indeed aluminum HPI engine mounts. I didn't have anything else. I had to actually shave some material off of them to get the mesh right. I believe it was about 2 or 3 mm.

I have the Powerline 4mm aluminum chassis, and I had to mount the engine in the forward holes for the clutchbell to reach the spur. Because of this I had to relocate the brakes to the front of the spur housing, which actually worked pretty slick.

[Jackyl]

Ok, i'm following you so far. And basically you had it setup with the single speed, hense the single gear on the clutchbell. I have the 2spd was hoping to get that to work but if it will not then oh well. this is a race truck anyways and I was wanting to go to a single spur gear anyways. as for the brake in the front I saw that as it wouldn't work in the rear.

So then all I have to do is just get a trx 2.5 flywheel/clutch and then a hpi single speed clutchbell take matereial off the end of the bell or the inner diamter where the crank goes through? did you use bearings on the clutchbell? if so what ones if you had to make the ID larger to fit onto the 2.5's crankshaft. "ips"

[B!!!]

Yeah, HPI doesn't recommend the 2 speed if you are running in dirt, which we do, so I only have the single speed.

I had to use the TRX flywheel because I believe that's the only one that will fit on there properly, and the clutches, and the clutchnut. I could be wrong, but that's all I could find and my LHS wasn't much help.

The material that was removed was from the bell part of the clutchbell to make it shorter. I'm not sure how much... I just kept doing it until it didn't rub the flywheel any more.

I ended up using regular HPI needle bearings. They were the only HPI thing that worked on that engine!

[nitecrawler]

Anyone had experience of the MT versus the MT2?
Is it much better?
The front suspension setup, with the C-hubs inboard looks stronger. Can the MT2 setup be fitted to the original MT?

[Kenny T]

I'm pretty sure the MT2 set up can be put on the NMT.

[LearjetMinako]

Well, I'm getting out of the NMT bizz. What would be a good resale value for the NMT with the .15FE engine? The engine would need new sleeve & piston and a glow plug. The NMT is a bit bent out shape and would need some parts replaced to have the 4wd. But it does have Powerline's aluminum front suspension arms. And it will still run without the parts, just in 3wd with all four wheels (needs new front outdrive). I'll be selling it without radio equipment but will come with all the parts for it and the orginal box that it came in.

Main reason why I'm selling is that its disconutined and I kinda want a AE RC10GT or maybe a Novak ss5800 for my T3. Plus it doesn't have the durablity that I like.

[fordman]

I'd say around $180 because it would take about $120 to get it running right, and that puts the total for the buyer at $300. you could get a new one for lmost that much. so I say in the $180-200 range sounds right. I got mine for $150 2 years ago RTR off ebay. that guy got ripped off.

[doesgo]

This is just my opinion, but you're just not likely to get much for an NMT with no radio, a bad engine, and 3wd.

I'd suggest parting it out. Instead, you could get a used radio/receiver for around $25 and a decent used engine for about $50 most likely, then do the work of putting in a new outdrive and you'll be there. You'd still be hard-pressed to get more than $150 though.

NMTs just aren't a hot commodity and there are many out there for sale. The RC10GTs and Triple-XNTs are extremely popular, yet you can get a nice used one of those with a good, running engine for around $150.

That said, I do wish you the best of luck selling yours.

[LearjetMinako]

As is it is now, I was thinking maybe $100-140. I could throw in a OS .15CV-RX (just been cleaned) and possibly repair the damage to increase the price over $150 but under $200. The min. I will go for as is, about $100. Parts for repair should cost me anywhere around $5-40. I could add a Hitec radio (basic model) but there would be no servos, I would also have to find out whats wrong with it too.

[nitecrawler]

does anyone know of any 'dish' type wheels to fit an MT? There's loads of twigs n stuff where I run, and they keep getting stuck in my wheel spokes, stopping things dead, and breaking stuff.

[doesgo]

I've run RPM wheels designed for RC10GTs with 3/16" axles with no problems, so I imagine you could run some of Associated's dish wheels for the 3/16" axles.

[metred]

Does anyone have any info on a steel spur gear for the nitro MT, early version? My son keeps stripping his and i know the gear mesh is set right, although it does not have a slipper yet but that may be our next step! buy the way it has an OS 12.

[doesgo]

Yeah, there's a guy that makes them, he visits here quite often but I haven't seen him post lately. Gimpy is his screen name. I bought one from him and as long as you run a hardened clutch bell, it's awesome! If you don't run a hardened clutch bell the steel spur will eat up the bell in less than a tank.

[metred]

Thanks doesgo, ill keep an eye out for him, do you run a slipper on yours?

[doesgo]

Yeah, that's the first step in saving your spur gear. And you have to run one to run a steel spur anyway. Some people have good luck with plastic spurs after they install a slipper, and since you have to do that anyway maybe that's the way to start out. You might even find you don't need the steel one.

[Jackyl]

Yeah, are any of you guys running the nmt 2 slipper clutch on your nmt? Caaause. I read somewhere that you can do that and if that is true. The nmt uses the savage 52t spur and well you can buy metal spurs from rrp for the savage. so there is a metal spur for your nmt. the slipper kit from tower is 12.99. here is the information for the rrp kit.

http://www.robinsonracing.com/images/7052.jpg
Savage .21 Hardened Steel Spur/Clutchbell Combo $43.50 ea
Precision CNC machined from solid steel and hardened for the ultimate performance. 52T spur/14T clutchbell

Kills 2 birds with one stone.

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/r/rrpc7052.jpg 35.99 on tower! for clutchbell and spur 52t/14 or 48t/16t. I just don't know if the clutchbell will fit on say a traxxas 2.5?


And the other thing is I have a complete 2spd setup for a nitro mt "clutchbell/spurgears/ 1 new 52t in package" everything as I'm going to go this route and put the nmt slipper with the savage RRP kit on my nitro mt as this is my race truck. So tomorrow I should have some pics up of everything. oh and I also have a aluminum vented flywheel that I nolonger have a use for that will also go in this deal. I just wanted to give the NMT crowd first dibs on it. Package deal complete 2spd setup and an aluminum flywheel all in good shape. shoot me a price for everything! As I need to get this truck finished race season is comin' up quick and I have some 2wd trucks to dominate as that is what class I have been put in 1/10th scale 2wd stadium trucks. I was told by the guy at the hobby shop "Good Luck, you'll need it" ha .15 2wd rc10gt vs this (http://www.rcsites.net/jackyl/Rs4%20Nitro%20MT/Img_0582.jpg) I know this truck is going to hookup and moove as the gearing will be right and the suspension is totally dialed!

Sorry for the rambling I really like my hpi rs4 nitro mt truck and I back those who also like them!!

[nerv]

Hi, everyone, I just got an os t-1020 pipe and the HPI header for my nmt, but it seems this combination is good for speed not torque, right? Does anyone know about the t-1020 pipe?

[Kenny T]

Jackyl, tell us the races go, I'm very interested. How are the alu shock towers, they're on my list of hop ups after I'm done with the GT. BTW, what engine are you going to drop in it?

[Jackyl]

The shocktowers are awesome leaves alot of room for fine tuning if you need it. I am working on getting a trx 2.5 into this truck as it seems like it is a "right" engine for it. .15 that is higly ported with rear exhaust. and a wicked power band. I just want to know if this savage clutch/spur combo is going to work with the nmt slipper setup on the 1st gen nmt. As soon as I sell my 2psd stuff I'll being finding out if this combo works.

[Jackyl]

Here is the link (http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=163292) to the 2spd stuff for sale. I don't really know what to ask for it I know that the 2spd is 65.99 new/ flywheel 10bucks? clutchbell w/ ips shaft 12bucks? new 52t spur is 3.84. So if your interested shoot me an offer for the whole lot as I want to sell it all at once. I need to sell this to fund my nmt 2 slipper clutch /w savage combo for my nmt!

[Lapster]

Hey guys, I havent been here for a while... but hows it goin?

I was wondering if any of you knew where to buy a steel spur. I have had my picco for a while now and I stip spurs every time I run. Gear mesh is fine... I just want METAL!

[Kenny T]

I received the first order of 52 and 49T steel spur gears! My site has been updated with all the info, and please feel free to email me at gimps_2k2@yahoo.com with questions.
Price is $29.99 each and the gears are compatible with a slipper clutch or 2-speed.

http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/MetalSpur_Page.htm

I have been extremely busy lately with college so I probably won't be checking this thread very often (email will get you a much faster response).

That's the guy selling them, his post can be seen on page 32.

[Jackyl]

Has anyone used any other type of diffs in their nmt or nm2? Like you can use the ofna 8spyder gear diffs in the stock housing. Can you do the same with the stock nmt(2) diff housings? or that will not work?

I want to make sure that the diff can handle the power of a .25 or a .26 engine. The center drive can take it with the nmt2&savege upgrade and I have ujoint style center driveshafts but the diffs I feel are going to grenade in the housings.

What do you guys think?

[LearjetMinako]

Well, I finally decided on what to do with my NMT. I've decided to hold on to it a bit longer. With the 4wd, its a great truck for sand duning and wall crawling. I'll be fixing it up any ways. To tell you guys/gals the truth, I really didn't want to let go of it in the first place. Just penny pinching at the moment. :cool:

[Kenny T]

Jackyl, you could try a ball diff. I'm sure you can use the NMT stuff in the NMT2, there isn't a lot of difference between the two. The suspension and the upper deck change is the only change I've noticed along with the rotostarted T15 engine.

LearjetMinako, I found that RWD gave me almost no traction when running in sand(that's the only sort of terrain we have hear). I tried to jump it but it couldn't get any speed up and it woudn't go straight. After you fix up the car itself, look at getting a new engine. :)

[Jackyl]

I'm thinking more along the lines of a spyder diff. And modifying the nmt diff case to take them. Or even savage stock diffs. it's only making the pinion bearing holes larger, actually I think making all the bearing holes larger but the diff overall should fit in the nmt stock housing. I'm going to work at this one and see what I come up with because the nmt diffs blow monkey nuts.

[nerv]

Hi, everyone. Is any better chassis than the stock nmt chassis. I have to replace mine, so any suggestion. How about a GPM T6 3mm racing chassis? that one looks sweet, but don't know if it's realy that rigid.

[doesgo]

Hi, everyone. Is any better chassis than the stock nmt chassis. I have to replace mine, so any suggestion. How about a GPM T6 3mm racing chassis? that one looks sweet, but don't know if it's realy that rigid.
I pretty much detest anything made by GPM, but the Powerline 4mm chassis is a nice piece and isn't too expensive.

Or, do what I did and sandwich two stock chassis together with JB Weld, get a few longer screws, and have a VERY rigid 4mm setup! I was floored at how much stiffer it was than stock. Heavier, to be sure, but heavier and reliable is usually better than light and flexible.

[Kenny T]

Why is it that you detest GPM parts?

[Jackyl]

Hey doesgo, does this make you sick since you detest GPM Parts?

http://www.rcsites.net/jackyl/Rs4%20Nitro%20MT/Img_0583.jpg

[doesgo]

Hey doesgo, does this make you sick since you detest GPM Parts?

LOL! You got me, Jackyl! I've just known of far too many GPM parts that failed miserably on Savages (no experience with GPM parts on NMTs). Their warranty? They just say their stuff is for show, not for durability. That irks me greatly. As a result, I'll be nothing of theirs. To each their own, though!

[nerv]

Thanks for your suggestion doesgo, i'm going with powerline since it's 4mm thick. But Jackyl's GPM upperdeck looks sweet too. Damn, I don't know how much longer I can hold myself from buying that upperdeck.

[nerv]

By the way, I just installed an o.s. t-1020 pipe and HPI header on my 15fe (I will upgrade it to a T-15 soon). I didn't notice any difference in low-end, but the top speed increased for sure ( it takes a little while to get to the top speed). The problem is, when off-road, the car has little chance to get to its top speed, so it runs like under-powered. Does that mean the t-1020 is not a good pipe for nmt?

[doesgo]

Thanks for your suggestion doesgo, i'm going with powerline since it's 4mm thick. But Jackyl's GPM upperdeck looks sweet too. Damn, I don't know how much longer I can hold myself from buying that upperdeck.
If you like the GPM, get it! It's a chunk of aluminum, it'd be tough to make a bad one. :) Or get the Powerline one, it's a nice-looking chunk of aluminum too. $27. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ51&P=7

[Jackyl]

Hey guys what are you running for diffs? I'm trying to figure out what diff to replace the factory ones with. I really want to go with the savage stock diffs that way I can go to an ofna diff with ease. but the stock diff housings have to be modified to take larger diffs "the bearring holes need to be drilled out larger"

Basically any info would be great! As the diffs are the last weak link in the change to a .26 powered nmt!!! and once that is figured out then onto the nmt hybrid!

[Kenny T]

doesgo,I would buy powerline preoducts if I could get ahold of them here, the only non-hpi hop ups I've seen in Australia are GPM hop ups.

Anyone willing to buy it for me and ship it over here?

[LearjetMinako]

Ran the NMT for the first time this year and after being repaired and the engine cleaned. Got to say, it still impresses me with handling on-road as well as off-road. Friday, I'll hit the sand pit with Pro-line's sand paws on. The OS .15CV-RX still runs great, even thou it has 3 gallons through it already. Starts on the first pull when cold but becomes a pain when warmed up. Pulling the cord all day to get it to start isn't fun. So I thought about the HPI rotostart. Unfortunely none of my LHS around here carry one for the .12/.15 size engines but Compentition R/C carrys one for the 21/25 size at $50. A bit too much so I'm going to order from towerhobbies.

I really should be smacked in the head for even trying to think of selling my NMT. :p

[doesgo]

Why not just buy a cheap starter box? That way you can use it on the NMT as well as other vehicles you have now or in the future. I LOVE having a starter box!

[LearjetMinako]

I didn't even think about a starter box. I'll have to look at prices for those. But its kind of nice to stick a shaft into the engine recoil to get it going again then to take the car to the pits to restart it. But with a starter box, I can buy an engine without the recoil and gain some power and life out of the engine. Ahhh, decesions, decesions, decesions............. Let me think it over in my sleep.

Yes, even in my sleep I still have the brain ticking away at R/C's :D

[doesgo]

Oh, and consider yourself smacked. ;)

[Kenny T]

Get a starter box, I got one on saturday and am very pleased with it's performance. It cost me $AU125 (TTR universal starter box.)

[H-Trainer]

Jackyl, it doesn't matter how strong your spur and differential are, as I believe the weakest spot to be the final gears. SN VipeR is running both 13T and 38T HD steel and has broken them twice. No, not off-road, but on-road in his SNR. They don't seem to mash too well.
I am using a HD 13T with stock 38T, well-shimmed and lubricated. It's been holding up to my 1 hp engine on road, but I'm not sure if it can handle a .21 combined with a harsh throttle finger... not even talking about off-road yet.

But in fact, I'm not sure if these parts are different on the NMT2. So let me know how it goes with your conversion.

Greetings, H-Trainer

www.H-Trainer.ch.vu

[nerv]

Now, forgive me that I ask the same question you guys discussed over and over again. which engine is best for the nmt? I do find some interesting engines other than os 15cvr. such as the Megatech Q 1.6 Chianelli Series w/Header ( http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEUP4&P=0 ) and the Team Orion Wasp .18 Slide Carburetor Pull Start Engine ( I don't like the rotary carb one because the rotary carb looks almost identiycal to the 15fe ). The third one is the HPI T-15 which claimed has some attractive features such as ABC, aggressive porting, 6mm duel needle carb, and 1.2 hp. Ok, now, Since everybody has os cvr in theri nmt, I guess I will choose one from the three I listed. If any professional here have any good reasons that os cvr can beat all the three (including price), then I will go for os cvr. Thanks in advance.

[TJNMT]

I would pick the T-15 for nmt. as that is what I am going to be running in it. For the price, you can't beat that for the performance it gets.

[doesgo]

I've heard that's pretty darn weak for the NMT? Better than the FE, naturally, but still nothing to write home about.

I like the .15 CV-R, although it's a bit low on bottom-end torque for an NMT. At least mine was. I've been pretty happy with my Epic .18 so far, and I haven't even gotten it dialed in quite yet.

[nerv]

The EPIC one looks really nice, 1.8 hp? It will break my nmt into pieces lol. The only good thing about 15fe is it never break anything on my nmt( too weak to break anything). Doesgo, I guess you've already upgrade ur mt to bullet proof to handle that power, right? I heard about a very powerfull .18 engine for nmt, and I thought it was the WASP .18. Now I think it's the EPIC one. Tower sells EPIC .18 for 145, the T-15 for 70. errrr, I hope they sell T-15 for 120 so that I have a good reason to choose EPIC lol.

[doesgo]

I'm still running the Epic on the rich side so I haven't seen its full power, I'm still unsure if the NMT will withstand it.

I'm running a 15t bell, 49-tooth steel spur, the on-road diff gears in back, stock in front, doubled-up stock chassis, titanium turnbuckles...I think that's it for the strengthening stuff. A couple of the hinge pins are stainless, but most are still stock. Stock outdrives, axles, and dogbones. I've got Rush outdrives and another set of on-road diff gears to install, I just haven't gotten around to it. I've got a Powerline aluminum upper deck yet to install, too.

Oh, and the 125cc OFNA fuel tank is really nice for runtimes!

You can see it in action a little bit in the latest SlapMaFro video titled "Farm Bash 6" at www.slapmafro.com. It's the one at the end with the blue/white/silver/black body that gets friendly with the barn.

[doesgo]

Oh, and regarding the .15 CV-R....I'm sure it'd be great in a stadium truck, but I think it's just a bit weak down low for the NMT. It's okay, just not exactly impressive. But that's just me.

I got my Epic from Tower for $145, but they always have discounts if you buy a certain amount of stuff, so I ended up getting it for like $126 or something. Couldn't pass it up!

[nerv]

I saw it, I saw it. wooohooooo, did u build that crazy blue Monster Luncher, Doesgo? u should name it "To Heaven". Is ur mt the one with a yellow chassis and a yellow pipe? OMG, Now I believe it really flies, and now I know why u think cvr is a bit low on torque.

[doesgo]

Thanks Nerv! Yeah, I built the blue jump and the NMT with the yellow powdercoated chassis and pipe is mine. That jump sure sends it flying, doesn't it? Can be deadly, but it's really fun.

[Kenny T]

I sent my NMT Racer off the 6-7 foot quarter pipe at school, got about 5 foot of air and landed on the right rear wheel. Busted an outdrive, ripped off the thing that holds the radio tray on.

When fixing it I found that the input shaft or the little gear(forgot name) rubs against the diff(the black plastic part), there's a deep scratch al the way round the diff. Anyone else have the same problem? It's probably my fault though.

Is there a way to put an all chassis skidplate on the NMT?

[doesgo]

There are some impacts for which you can do little to prevent damage, but it sounds like adding some bumpers would help you quite a bit. Mossdog makes some nice ones that have prevented many broken a-arms for me and many other folks. Another, slighly more expensive option would be to buy a couple RPM front bumpers for an RC10GT or a Rustler and drill them out to match the differential screw pattern on the NMT and bolt them on. They're stiffer than the Mossdog bumpers....I'm not sure yet if that's a good thing or a bad thing. I did something like that on my RC10GT, I bolted a Rustler front bumper to the back because I got tired of breaking the stock battery holder. I haven't had a chance to bash with it yet, however.

As for the radio tray problem, I know what you're talking about! One of those landings on the barn roof tweaked the back end of my radio tray pretty bad. That's why the engine was revving when it was upside-down....the radio tray had been forced up in the rear which was pushing the throttle open. I had to keep the brakes on until the fuel lines were empty to keep it from overrevving.

To solve that, I'd suggest investing $27 in a Powerline aluminum upper deck. It screws onto the truck rather than being held on with pins and that hook arrangement, which should make it much more solid, and it'll do wonders for chassis rigidity.

Also, the Rush outdrives are not only longer (keeping your dogbones in place better) but I believe they're stronger than the stock NMT outdrives. They should be better able to withstand the punishment.

As for your diff, I'm not sure what would cause that. Never heard of that happening. Does it do that on the front and rear diff or just one of them?

The NMT doesn't really need a skid plate, since the entire chassis is flat like a 1/8 buggy. What would it protect? I think you'd be better off with a 4mm Powerline chassis or stacking two stock chassis together to obtain a 4mm chassis (2mm from each stock chassis plate). That adds an amazing amount of stiffness.

[nerv]

Hi KennyT, I have the same problem as you; there are some deep scratches on the diff case caused by the 13t gear. Did you add small washers behind the 13t gear like the updated Manuel instructed? I think that caused the problem. If you compare the old bevel gear and the updated version, you will find the updated version has a tip at the back which looks like a small add on washer. so if you add another washer at the back, you push the bevel gear so close to the diff that it will make scratch on the diff case. As long as your silicon oil in the diff case doesn’t leak out, I guess it's fine.

[SIRMAXX]

I purchased my NMT a few months ago off a guy in the area.

Took it all apart and replaced the stock final gears with the HD pinion and ring sets. Installed CVD's all over, titanium turnbuckles, alloy upper deck, slipper, alloy steering bellcranks and to top it all off.... A SIRIO .18... YUM YUM :)

Invested alot of time in setting up the diffs just right. Quite a few shims had to be added to get the right pinion depth, backlash and contact patch going. Once that was done, I installed the o-rings, 5000 wt oil (front and rear) and buttered up the gears with a layer of synthetic grease.

I have a question though. I'm having problems installing my alloy steering bellcranks. The center link hits the diff. Something doesn't seem right...

I would greatly appreciated someone posting a good pic of their alloy bellcrank set up or e-mail me.

sirmaxx@canada.com

[Kenny T]

doesgo, I've been meaning to get the powerline upperdeck, you know that. I wanted to get the Rush outdrives or the HD outdrives but the shop didn't have them.

I'm thinking about putting a stock chassis on as well, that'll make it 4.5mm. :D Did you get longer screws?

I haven't checked the front diff for the problem yet.

About the GT, wouldn't the aluminum rear bumper/battery holder be easier than modifying a rustler bumper?

nerv, I remember putting a few washers on it but nothing has leaked out so I'm not going to worry about it.

[Kenny T]

http://www.kedar.itgo.com/powerlinesteering.jpg

[SIRMAXX]

Thanks Kenny

[nerv]

yea, that looks exactly same scratches on my diff case too. When I finish building my mt I found the diff are not moving freely. After a few runs, it moves freely, but I found those scratches.

[doesgo]

I'm thinking about putting a stock chassis on as well, that'll make it 4.5mm. :D Did you get longer screws?

About the GT, wouldn't the aluminum rear bumper/battery holder be easier than modifying a rustler bumper?

Yes, I made a list of all the screws (and their lengths)that went through the chassis, then went to my LHS and bought screws that were as close to 2mm longer than stock as I could find. I found some that were quite a bit longer and just cut them down to the proper length. Easy to do on those self-tapping screws that go into plastic.

About the GT, I haven't seen an aluminum bumper/battery holder for the GT, only for the Losi Triple-XNT. Even if one existed for the GT I wouldn't buy it, however. The bumper was about $12 and it's nylon. An aluminum battery holder/bumper would likely cost much more and aluminum doesn't have the kind of durability I'm looking for. It's stiff so it'd transmit all the shock loads to a couple little screws that hold it on, while a nylon bumper can absorb the impacts. Aluminum has its place in R/C, but in my opinion those places are pretty limited. Plastic is usually plenty strong, cheap, light, and flexible.

But that's just me...

[nerv]

Hi, I just watched the RCX show at Irvine CA today. It was great, lots of crazy jumps, lots of sexy cars ( but I didn't see any MTs show, or Savage show, AE and Team Lossi's cars are allover the place). The highest jump I believe was made by kyosho's KanaiIII. Almost reached the ceiling, and two turns in the air, plus a four wheel landing. The AE's Monster GT sucks, it's too heavy for jumping. Team Lossi's BIG MOnster is much better (faster, jump higher, and never break)

[christopher1519]

What kind of battery pack and charger would you guys recommend for a beginner on a budget? I was thinking the Trinity 1150 mAh 5 cell hump pack but I have no idea on what kind of battery charger to buy.

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[fuzzy2133]

for just starting out a simple wall plug charger will work. charge it over night and you will be good to go

[christopher1519]

That what I thought but then I started reading all the battery info on the web and it sounded like I was going to ruin the battery that way. I guess that just the way the battery charger companies get you to buy their products.

Thanks for the help.

[LearjetMinako]

What you could do (is what I do) put the wall charger on a timer or use a peak battery charger to charge it. I use either the JR TX/RX wall charger which charges both transmitter and receiver pack at 50ma or the Dynamite Peak Plus at 1amp. So that would be about (1200/50=24) 24hours on the wall charger or 1.2hours on the peak charger. Make sure the battery is discharged all the way before charging or calculations could be off. Plus 50ma per hour overcharge isn't really going to hurt anything but the 1amp per hour will burn the battery pack up.

Heres a tip, always use hi-mah batteries in the transmitter. I use Radio Shack's Ni-Cads rated at 600mah. They only last 2 1/2hours, contunious running at the track and takes 12hours (overnight) to charge. And alk. batteries are also rated at 600mah for AA. Sad, isn't it. :p Besides, they are 10years old.

[fuzzy2133]

I was just thinking about using some sort of timer to shut off the charger. :cool:

[nerv]

Instead buying a 15cvr, I bought a Picco/Omega XT .12 for my MT. It may not have that much torque of 15cvr, but it's brand new for $86 on ebay, and IT'S PICCO. Oh yeah, I was keep dreaming smoking some GTs with my Omega-MT on the track these days.

[christopher1519]

dose anyone knowwhich of these is better:
this
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZJ57&P=K and this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVT96&P=K
or these
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTB51&P=K

[TJNMT]

I would choose the lunsford and rpm, reason being, the rpm cups and better than the hpi cups. but the as for the rods I'm pretty sure they are equal, but again the ball cups from rpm are no joke

[christopher1519]

thanks for the advise

[fuzzy2133]

you may want to get some ti ball studs with the RPM cups. My mt took a tumble and the stock ball studs broke clean away at the threads. I was in shock that the rpm cups are that strong.

[doesgo]

I just did the same thing Fuzzy, broke a stock ball stud right off, and it was still sitting in the RPM cup!

[Jackyl]

Well I got NMT2 slipper assembly and the RRP savage clutchbell and spur into my NMT. I also got a 3 shoe integy flywheel and 3 aluminum clutchpads for the trx 2.5. All I need now is an exhaust. I'll probably end up putting on a trx manifold with a phantom pipe.

HPI Says that the nmt2 slipper will not work with the nmt, That is B.S !!!! It works you just need to get a few things in addition to the nmt2 slipper assembly.

These are the things that you will need to do this conversion

1) HPI Nitro MT
2) HPI Slipper Clutch Set #87138 $12.99
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFYP4&P=X
3) RRP Savage Gear Kit #7052 $35.99
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFFK0&P=7
HPI CUP JOINT 7x19mm #86234
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFYV1&P=M

HPI Cup Joint 7x19mm D-Cut #86225
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=86225&FVPROFIL=++

HPI Screw Shaft M4x2x12mm Black Savage 21 (6) #86094
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLG8&P=7

[GWiles]

Maybe you guys can help -- the HPI Forum doesn't seem to hold much water and the posts are heavily moderated.

I have approx. 2 yr old FE. It ran great for me last year and didn't see much action over the winter here in PA. It started up for me great a few months ago, but after a few tanks became more difficult to get to start. I've had a grey ooze come out of the pipe. I mildly freaked and took the motor out, cleaned it outside and inside flooded everything out with after-run oil. She's still as difficult as to start as before. I've got it running but it takes a ton of priming before she'll think about firing over. I've put a new med. heat plug in as well.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

-->Garry

[Interstate]

Welcome to the forum!

How old is the fuel you are using? And what brand are you using? Where was it stored for the winter? How's the compression on the engine? And how much fuel has already been through it?

The fuel may need to be replaced because of age. Fresh fuel is always a good idea. The piston and sleeve might just be worn out. A 2 year old FE would have the ABN piston and sleeve, so your engine may have worn quicker than the newer ABC engines. A quick $30 piston and sleeve replacement would fix this.
~let us know!

[thedarkness]

Today i just bought a nitro mt racer for $199us brand new sealed in package.Is the a good price to pay for this truck? I see tower sells it for $279. What mods should i look into?I allready have graphite uper brace and graphite arms.I will be using this truck for racing only nothing else so im lot looking to bling it out.thanks for any advice.

[GWiles]

Welcome to the forum!

How old is the fuel you are using? And what brand are you using? Where was it stored for the winter? How's the compression on the engine? And how much fuel has already been through it?

The fuel may need to be replaced because of age. Fresh fuel is always a good idea. The piston and sleeve might just be worn out. A 2 year old FE would have the ABN piston and sleeve, so your engine may have worn quicker than the newer ABC engines. A quick $30 piston and sleeve replacement would fix this.
~let us know!
Interstate,

The fuel is less than a yr old -- Wildcat (orange). It was stored in a fairly dry basement w/the red sealer cap w/the regular cap on as well. I don't have a compression checker to tell what the compression is. I've run over a gallon through the FE since I've had it.

I know the FE is an ABN motor and that's why I was concerned with the grey/silver deposits in the fluid coming out of the exhaust pipe. I really haven't been able to get the motor to run since then. If I put a new piston/sleve in, I'd convert to ABC -- then the question becomes - do the conversion or put a buy a new engine Tower has the T-15 for $70. Is it worth it? What's the power difference between a converted FE to T-15?

I just found a local dirt track and want to race there, even though I really don't have a class (no 4x4 truck class) to race in, but I can run my truck as long as there's not much complaining.

Thanks!

-->Garry

[Interstate]

The FE and T-15 are pretty similar. The T-15 has a little bit more power, but I don't know much about it's reliability or durability.

Turn the flywheel over (glow plug installed) with one finger. If it turns over rather easily, you've lost compression. Otherwise, it's probobly still got a bit more in it left to go. Tear the engine apart (if you know you can reassemble it correctly) and check for internal wear. Lines on the crankshaft near the intake port are a bad sign. Vertical lines on the piston sleeve are a bad sign. Dirt is very bad. Metal chips are bad. you get the point...

[thedarkness]

What kind of header will fit on this? The stock one looks restrictive.

[Jackyl]

What are you guys running for aftermarket brakes? I have a trx 2.5 in my nmt, and the stock brakes do not slow it down! Is there a mod or something to get more breaking power? I would like to do a dual brake conversion to make it stop on a dime.

Just wondering what you guys are running.

[doesgo]

Go to Kedar's site (http://www.kedar.itgo.com/) for lots of hop-up info for the NMT, including a couple different brake upgrades. In my experience, HPI's single fiber disc brake and a decent servo (60+ in/oz) does the job.

[doesgo]

What kind of header will fit on this? The stock one looks restrictive.
HPI has one that works and is definitely far better than stock, I think it's this one: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBTB5&P=ML

The New Jersey Big Tube Header is said to be the best, but it's more expensive at around $25. Duratrax has one that's similar to the NJBTH but for about $14, but I can't seem to find it. I'm sure it's mentioned in this NMT thread somewhere.

Don't forget the pipe, too. I'd suggest the AE Factory Team RC10GT pipe, it does a great job. Here's the purple version: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX3428&P=7 but other colors are available and it seems to me there's one available for around $20, too. But again, I can't seem to find it.

[Kenny T]

Try a Tmaxx header or the tubular HPI header used on the RS4 3 SS. Get a aluminum upper deck and upgrade the shocktowers first. Then some masher 2000's and upgrade the drivetrain with Heavy duty gears, do the diffs up as well. Get some RPM ball cups and Titanium turnbuckles

Jackyl, http://www.kedar.itgo.com/tipz.html
Click on either Metal Brake Disk Conversion, Dual Brake or Quad Brake. I'm using the
fibre disk brake that came with the Racer and it works well. I have the metal brake conversion(hot bodies) on my RS4 3 and I think the fibre disk works better.

[Kenny T]

That's odd.

I didn't see doesgo's reply until I posted mine but the time is way apart. ???

[doesgo]

Sometimes if you don't refresh the view you don't get the latest posts to show up even when you click on a link in an e-mail. Funny we said pretty much the exact same thing!

[Kenny T]

Great minds think alike. :D

[TJNMT]

Interstate,

The fuel is less than a yr old -- Wildcat (orange). It was stored in a fairly dry basement w/the red sealer cap w/the regular cap on as well. I don't have a compression checker to tell what the compression is. I've run over a gallon through the FE since I've had it.

I know the FE is an ABN motor and that's why I was concerned with the grey/silver deposits in the fluid coming out of the exhaust pipe. I really haven't been able to get the motor to run since then. If I put a new piston/sleve in, I'd convert to ABC -- then the question becomes - do the conversion or put a buy a new engine Tower has the T-15 for $70. Is it worth it? What's the power difference between a converted FE to T-15?

I just found a local dirt track and want to race there, even though I really don't have a class (no 4x4 truck class) to race in, but I can run my truck as long as there's not much complaining.

Thanks!

-->Garry

That fuel should be good to go, but engine is proably shot. As for the T-15 it is 100% better than the FE and the price is awesome for that engine.
More power, 2 needle carb over the FE, More reliable. If you plan on just bashign around and running the track then go for it. It will suit pretty much anyboys wallet too.

[thedarkness]

Does anyone know where to get the titanium chassis for the nmt? I was reading specs on it and it wieghs twice the amount of stock and is 3mm thick. Im pretty sure i wont be bending this chassis anytime soon if i get it. Who else has one on theres.
p.s thanks for the header advice.

[Jackyl]

Well after a very long time, I was finally able to drive this truck, And all I have to say is DaMn, I've seen hybrids lift up a front tire and balloon it out but never a 4x4 1/10th truck before, Well mine did it. Because the 2.5 actually overpowered the rear diff and basically the front diff got all the power and then when I turned it lifted a tire and unloaded. It was sick!! Well since then I rebuilt the rear diff packed in a bit of bearing grease and it's all good now, hammer the throttle and either the truck sits and spins till the tires grab or the truck just stick and moooves!! But the nmt slipper mod went without a hitch, Great unit, even better if you go with the RRP hardened clutchbell and spur for the savage. and for 12.99 for the nmt 2 slipper kit and it comes with a 52t spur it's a steal!!!

But I have a few questions for you guys, First off who is running aluminum C-hubs? If you are, are you running the bearings in them? This is where my problem is, I have the Powerline C-hubs, and my truck fliped over and sheared off the 2 screws that hold the axle carrier in the c-hub, The bearings are good yet, and so are the aluminum peices it's just that The screws that came with the c-hubs are weird and I can't find them on any list, and I would hate to think that I have to order them. Just wondering if you guys had any problems like this. I'll just go to the hardware store and find a bolt that fits into the bearing and then just drill and tap the axle carriers to accept the new size bolt.

Here are some picks of my nmt in it's current state. These are with the foamies on it as I was trying to see how fast I could get it to go.

http://www.rcsites.net/jackyl/Rs4%20Nitro%20MT/Img_0733.jpg
http://www.rcsites.net/jackyl/Rs4%20Nitro%20MT/Img_0734.jpg

I do have this truck up for sale, But I know that it shouldn't be :D

I just want to get it finished and actually tune the engine good for one day just to see how it is, and I know that this can only be done on a track as This truck begs to tear up a track.

But let me know about the C-hubs guys.

[Viper17]

Just got done glueing up a new set of rims and tires for my NMT. The truck is completly stock and is undergoing a complete rebuild right now.When I get the money I am going to start making it aluminum and carbon graphite and get rid of the stock .15FE in the backround

[Viper17]

more pics The chrome wheel is what was on the truck before

[Viper17]

Heres another, sorry if the pics suck I really need to invest in a new camera

[duanewho]

I've been lurking forever, but thanks this thread my NMT is good to go!
I bought it off ebay a while back for about $130, lot of pleasant surprises when it arrived. Already had servos and a receiver to match the tx I already had, the previous owner had already replaced the clutch needle bearings with ball bearings, and had installed the SS ABC piston/sleeve and 2 needle carb. I tore it down, cleaned everything, and built it back up following all the tips and tricks I could find. I raided my spares box for some turnbuckles and steering bearings. Then my lhs had their annual spring clearance sale, so I got a high-torque mg servo, a failsafe, new pipe/header, and some other trinkets for about $100. All in all, pretty good deal all around and this thing is a blast! Thanks for all the great advice!

[duanewho]

One more pic :)

[Kenny T]

Since everyone's posting pics, Here's a picture of my HPI cars(my RS4 3 SS is missing from the picture).

Edit: picture doesn't work :(

[carguy_no1]

I have a HPI Nitro RS4 MT2 for sale. The truck is essentially stock, but in great condition. It was never abused and always properly maintained. The MT2 is an improved version of the Nitro MT. It has Yokohama Geolander tires mounted on chrome split five wheels. It also has the new updated HPI Nitro Star T-15 with ABC construction and Rotostart. All is controled by an Airtronics 2-channel AM pistol grip, with dual rate steering, charge jack, steering and throttle trims, and servo reversing. I also recently bought a two speed transmission for the truck that is not currently installed ($80). I am asking $300 plus shipping for everything. Contact me at carguy_no1@yahoo.com for more details and pictures.

[nerv]

HI, I was thinking add a bumper to my nmt cuz my driving style keeps breaking the A-arm. Can any one give me a link for where I can buy the RPM bumper? the new mt2's bumper looks cool, but alittle weak too. I wonder if the mt2's bumper can do the job. It looks like taking from savarge 21.

[fuzzy2133]

HPI has the MT2 instruction book on their site and it looks like it is a easy up grade to do. part numbers will be 85072 and 85073. the front a-arm mount will have to be changed and the diff case is still the same design so in theroy it should go together and work. However I could still be wrong.

[doesgo]

I'm not sure if he's still selling them, but if you can get ahold of Mossdog, he makes (or used to make) some good bumpers for the NMT. I've taken some nasty crashes without breaking anything since adding his bumpers.

[thedarkness]

Didnt check my slipper before i ran today and it was slipping real bad.I shut it down and tighened the slipper to full lock.I headed back outside start her up and it runs great then the slipper starts slipping real bad again,i stopped checked the slipper and it was still at full lock.Do i need a new slipper disk or can i just scuff this one up real good?
By the way im running a fantom fr-15(one with the nasty gold head).I also have cvd all the way around and gpm center universals.pro-line bowties on all for corners graphite upper tray graphite arms(i know there weaker but there still cheap to replace).I have stock shocks with blue springs on front and losi reds on the rear with 50wt oil all around with the 3 hole piston(firmist).This truck is only a week old so nothing is damaged(well a ball end but the stock ones are crap).
Doesgo do you still drive yours?or does your storm sut take most of your time?Well thanks for advice if anyone has it.

[doesgo]

My SUT, Storm, RC10GT, and Savage have been taking priority lately, but I do like to drive my NMT on occasion still. I got dirt in the Epic 18 that was in my NMT recently, however, so I'm "between engines" as they say.

As for your slipping situation, the pad might be shot, but I'd check the spur gear itself. I very well may have melted itself into two pieces. I've had that happen once or twice. I got a steel spur from Gimpy and a Duratrax hardened steel bell and I no longer have any spur gear problems! :) Costs about $50 for both gears, unfortunatly.

[nerv]

Thanks fuzzy and doesgo for the bumper information. I don't know how to contact Mosdog( I just saw his post somewhere in this forum), so I will try the mt2 bumper first(hope I won't break the bumper as often as the a-arms). Speaking of the mt2, HPI site has a nice video about the mt2 with a HPI .18. it tops out about 46 m/h ( not very impressive), but the jump is quite amazing.

[fuzzy2133]

thedarkness - I melted 2 spur gears with my '03 fr-15 before I finaly got the slipper tight enough. right now it is only 1/4 turn out from the coil binding.

[doesgo]

You can get to Mossdog's site at http://www.mossdog.freeservers.com/ and it indicates he's still selling his NMT bumpers.

[Skandranon]

I would like some options about what pipe to get the the 15fe engine. I just sent it out to a guy and he is resizeing the sleeve, moding it a bit and boreing out the carb. He said when hes done it will be far better than new. In any case I still have the stock pipe and dont know what to upgrade to. At this time I need something on the cheaper end. It doesnt have to be the best pipe possable but just better than stock. I am also thinking about upgradeing to a O.S. engine at some point in the future. So a pipe that will work on more than one engine would be nice.
Thanks!

[Kenny T]

Is it just mine or is the chassis really flexy? I put my NMT on my starter box and I have to push down on that roll bar thingo and on the the front where the switch is to start the engine up. It won't start if I put my hand just on the front.

[doesgo]

It's not just you, it IS really flexy! That plastic upper deck doesn't help much either.

Chassis options are to get a Powerline 4mm chassis, a F4i titanium chassis, or do what I did and just stack two stock chassis on top of one another. Very stiff! A bit heavy, but strong and cheap.

Adding an aluminum or titanium upper deck will do wonders for stiffness too.

[Kenny T]

I know about the options but I didn't think a chassis could flex that much.

I'm planning on a Powerline upper deck and F/R shocktowers, I might have to get a chassis too know that I see it's that bad.

Where can I get a hold of some F4i stuff?

[doesgo]

F4i Modelsport is at http://f4iracing.extremevelocity.net/

Check out their stuff before buying Powerline. Powerline is fine, but F4i's stuff seems of great quality and the prices are comparable.

I'd consider trying the upper deck and maybe shock towers first, then see if the chassis still needs stiffening. Just adding the upper deck will really stiffen things up.

[Viper17]

What is powerline's website?

[Skribble]

I was just talking to one of my LHS employees, and I was asking about the HB Lightning Stadium. Then he told me that HPI/HB customer service is terrible, and he told me about this part A192 (Gear Shaft 4x50 [black]). It's a $5.00 part listed on the HPI Racing website, and told me that's what basically makes the truck go, and he called HPI, and they said that part was discontinued. So the person with that broken part basically repacked his truck and sent it back to the manufacture .. No word on it yet.

I don't know what part that is on the truck, but does anyone else know about this?

[doesgo]

HPI does list it on their website and many other hobby stores also list it. No idea about it being discontinued, but I don't believe HPI would discontinue something without a suitable replacement being available. Especially since that gear shaft works on other cars besides the NMT.

I believe it's the shaft on which the slipper clutch/spur gear mount.

[M16-A2]

For anyone who may be interested I am down to the last 2 dozen or so steel spur gears for the NMT slipper clutch. If you'd be interested in picking one up I am lowering the price to $19.99 in order to clear out these last few gears.

For more info visit my website:
http://www.personal.psu.edu/users/s/l/slw265/Web_Page/MetalSpur_Page.htm

and if you want to pick one up you can email me at gimps_2k2@yahoo.com or go to my auction at:
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=gimpys_racing&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=25

[ExtremeMT]

Will you be making more in the future?

[M16-A2]

Will you be making more in the future?

Probably not. I'm going to be moving onto newer vehicles like the Savage and whatever HPI's next offering is. If you've ever wanted a steel gear for your NMT this is the time to get them, because once they're gone I can't say whether they'll ever be available again (the HD dogbones I used to make are gone forever now too).

[Skandranon]

How many do you have left? I need one but I cant afford it right now as I just spent alot on my truck.

[Kenny T]

There's always the other option of buying the NMT2 Slipper kit and using the Savage metal spur with a HPI hardened pinion.

[ExtremeMT]

interesting....and the MT2 slipper would work on my truck no problem?

I need a drivetrain that can with stand the power of a .21 8 port or Picco .26

[doesgo]

Regarding NMT shocks....

I dropped a Force 21 in my NMT last week and it works great, tons of fun, but the suspension is overburdened, especially in the rear. I had to use the stiffest blue HPI springs and even with those I used a ton of spacers to keep the chassis off the ground.

Well, tonight I tried a couple shocks off my GS Storm buggy and....they worked GREAT! Much more spring options, more fluid capacity, they're really smooth, etc. They do a much better job at holding the NMT off the ground. Can't wait to hit the track with these things installed!

Please excuse my disgustingly-dirty truck...

http://www.doesgo.com/rc/nmtshock1.jpg

http://www.doesgo.com/rc/nmtshock3.jpg

[Kenny T]

I know you can use the NMT2 slipper on the NMT but I think it requires a few parts, I know it needs new outdrives. The metal spur is made by RRP for the savage. Go back a few pages and find where Jackyl is doing the conversion, there's some info there.

[Skandranon]

Looks like you got your shocks miss matched. That cannt ride that well, can it?

[doesgo]

LOL! Yeah, I imagine it'd work pretty poorly as shown. I was just showing one buggy shock and one 1/10-scale shock at the same time at each end of the truck to show the difference between them. I'll be installing buggy shocks at all four corners.

[MrCrash]

Hey Guys(and gals). I am thinking of buying the MT2. Will I be dissappointed?

[nerv]

HI, the mt2 slipper clutch is perfect for the mt ( cuz I installed one on my mt), but you will need a special screw pin made by HPI to replace the outdrive stopping screw. It looks like half pin half screw. (it's indicated on the instruction of the mt2 slipper clutch kit).

[nerv]

The mt2 won't disapoint you, but it's quite expensive. and you have to do the same thing as you did to your mt: shim the diffs(especially the 13t). take a look at the videos made by HPI, the mt2 with the 18ss. it flies over three big trash cans with a backward flipp and a perfect landing.

[Kenny T]

Crash, didn't you have an MP-5 or some kyosho buggy? I'd rather have a 1/8th buggy rather than my NMT R but NMT/MT2's are great fun. I have a GT as well but for me the NMT R is more fun and more practical.

[MrCrash]

yes, I do. I am thinking of selling it, and buying the MT2, due to the rising cost of replacement parts, and due to fuel costs(it's getting expensive feeding two monsters). After dealing with the Inferno, I now just want something that is a bit easier to maintain, is easier to find parts and hop-ups for, and is cheaper to run overall. I also want something that I can actually run ;)

[Kenny T]

Dang, I want a 1/8th but I don't want to get rid of my NMT. Would you be interested in a trade for a GT?

[MrCrash]

Sorry, but no thanks :)

I got my Inferno running perfectly again, so I am gonna wait a while before buying the MT2.

[MTkid7]

Im selling a 10 month old MT w/ a .16 engine..250 shipped.. e-mail if interested.. insaneblader88@cox.net

[Skandranon]

I am getting a nmt rolling chassis, with almost all the aluminum upgrades. You can see it here :http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5904194771 .
I want to get the O.S. cv-r pullstart engine for it. Does this engine have enofe power for this truck? I dont realy want something too fast as I am still learning how to drive it. Also the $130 price is as high as I can go. I would like to hear you peeps thoughts on this.

[Viper17]

I have an MT and I keep breaking the front a-arms and want to know if going with aluminum a-arms would be a bad choice or should I stick with plastic. I don't race and I don't really bash too hard with the truck.

[Skandranon]

Have you tryed boiling the arms for 10 min before you install them?

[Viper17]

That is what I'm going to do once my LHS gets the plastic ones in but if they keep breaking I'm going to get the aluminum arms.

[LearjetMinako]

Skip buying the stock plastic arms and switch to aluminum ones. I've gone through 3 sets of plastics before getting the Power-line aluminum ones. And yes, I even boiled the arms for the recommended time and also longer on the second and third set. They just couldn't take the punishment. The only thing wrong that I see w/ aluminum arms so far (on my NMT), is that they are so much stonger, that the arm pins will bend if crash into something really good. They don't bend much and I always just bend them back when they get really bad. But it beats having the wheel drag if it breaks in a race where it will only be a little angled, but you can keep on racing. :D

[Kenny T]

How do you guys snap arms? I'm surprised how strong the arms on my NMT are.

I jumped my NMT R off a quarter pipe, it got about 7 foot the ground and the landed on the right rear wheel only. It bounced about a foot off the ground off that one wheel. The only thing I broke was an outdrive, ball cup popped off but that wasn't a problem. I was surprised the arm didn't break.

It is a Carbon Graphite arm BTW.

[Skandranon]

Well I got my cv-r(x) Yesterday. It pushes my nmt way faster than the fe ever could and I am still in break in. I havnt gotten my alumium chassis yet, I hope it pushes that as fast.

I havnt broken any arms yet, but the front end is all jacked up. One side sits diffrent than the other side. It twisted somewhere or something. It kinda dogtails too, one wheel is a bit off from the other. Stock I dont see a way to fix it. Cant wait to see my new baby!

[Viper17]

Kenny T, were did you get your carbon arms. I snap arms by hitting poles. I usually drive at a park nearby and there is a basketball court by my favorite hill to jump on. :)

[thedarkness]

The electrec carbon graphite mt arms fit the nitro mt they are waaaay stronger than the nylon ones

[Kenny T]

The arms came in the kit, I have an NMT racer.

[thedarkness]

the arms that come with the mt racer are nylon.You know that black brace piece that came on the suspesion arm tree, bend that.Its stiff but not too stiff.The carbon version of that part cannot be bent like that.Heres a link to the part in talking about they are super strong and cheap http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5907655763&rd=1

[doesgo]

I've found that good bumpers have prevented nearly all my plastic arm breakage. The aluminum might work fine, but like Learjet said they will move the load to other things, like the hinge pins and such, and the arms themselves can bend. Replacing aluminum arms is expensive!

Good point about the racing situation though, I'd rather race with a bent arm than a broken one!

[doesgo]

As for running a CV-R, I think a .15 CV-R can do the job reasonably well with a relatively stock NMT, but if you add things like a thicker chassis, aluminum upper deck, aluminum arms, etc. you're going to be running slower and slower. I'd suggest the .18 CV-R if you want to keep a small-block in there, Tower has them for just over your limit at $140.

I just dropped a mild .21 in my NMT and am very pleased with it overall. That's another option to consider, but it'll be much more expensive than $130 if you have to buy that engine plus a few hop-ups.

[PapaST]

Hey guys, I'm thinking of picking up a NMT2 and I was wondering if it comes with reverse? I tried reading up on them but couldln't find the answer. I did pick up that over 90% of Nitro vehicles do not have reverse. Is that because Nitro is considered a racers' class or is it because of the mechanics?

[Skandranon]

No reverse. Reason - no idea :p

[fsbelem]

Hi guys, i'm thinking about buying a MT2 (looking at a nitro rustler too, whitch is better) and I'd like to know if is posible to put a 2nd speed on it. It can share parts with others hpi cars? How fast can go a stock car? Thanks and sorry by bad english...

[dping28]

My LHS told me you can get a 2 speed for the MT2. Im debating if I want to get it. :) Just got mine past break in, added a Motor Saver air filter and a Fantom Tourqe Tuned Pipe. Now if I can just get it to do some wheelies so I can put on a wheelie bar ;)

[Skandranon]

Fsbelem, I have a MT and it rocks. The 4wd rules bashing. For that alone I would choose it over the rustler. I do belive they make a 2 speed, I know they do for the first one not sure about the MT2. HPI recomends that is you off-road (what else is there? :P) that you Not use the 2 speed. Gets dirty and jamed or so I guess.

Doesgo, how are those buggy shocks working out? I am thinking about putting a set on mine. The shocks are just too soft. I may try firmer springs first not sure yet. If they are working good what do they go too exacly so I can price them?

[doesgo]

From what I understand the Wolfpack 2-speed is much better than the HPI 2-speed, but I'm not sure if you can go off-road with it without hosing up the one-way bearing. Also, you lose you slipper clutch when you put in a 2-speed, I believe, so that's not a good thing.

I've only got the buggy shocks on the back right now (I had extra back buggy shocks but no spare fronts) and I like it much better. Smoother action and it seemed to soak up the bumps and jumps better. I just got some more front buggy shocks yesterday so I'll be putting those on and testing it out soon, hopefully next weekend.

The ones I'm running are off a GS Storm. You can buy them new from Stormer Hobbies (www.stormerhobbies.com) or get them off eBay. I just got a full set for $10.50. They're not the toughest things around, but they should work well on an NMT. The only real problems I've had so far is the shim under the piston is too thin and weak. I replaced it with a hardened steel washer and completely eliminated the problem.

[duanewho]

Doesgo, I am glad you tried the buggy shocks. I tore off a cap on the stockers, so I picked up some aluminum Ofna shocks on ebay for $35, and they rock. They are a little longer than stock, so the truck sits a little higher, but that is probably better for bashing. They should be perfect if I decide to go to the MT2 suspension arm setup.

[doesgo]

Cool, glad you like them too! My rear arms are just above level, which is fine with me, but I think my front end will sit too high. Maybe I'll check that out tonight though.

You're right, the MT2 shocks are longer, so the buggy shocks will probably be about perfect!

[cduna]

Sept Issue OF NITRO Magazine has a .18 MT !!! With all types of goodies 3 shoe clutch , 100 cc fuel tank , Front & Rear universal drive shafts and much more ... Will try and scan the image and post it .. Ok how the heck do i insert a image ?? I tried to upload the pic but its to big ...

[NitroTXT1]

I just got a NMT and have been wanting one for a very long time...I also wanted to put a .21 in it...well I had a mach .26 just sitting in a box and so i decided to throw together...i have a roller model setup but i need to aquire some spacers for the engine mounts,drill the screw holes,and correct this little problem i am having with the clutch bell....Does anyone know of a pilot sg shaft that will fit a .21 threaded shaft so that i can mount the clutch bell if so please LET ME KNOW

[SIRMAXX]

I'm running the Sirio 18 in my NMT, with cvd's in all four corners and in the center, WolfPack Radicals 2 speed & brace kit, GPM steering bellcranks/knuckles/c-hubs and 125cc OFNA tank.

The Sirio is insane to say the least. Its got the torque of a big block and the RPM of a small block. I have a good 4 big blocks as spares and no way am I installing them in my NMT. Sirio is all she'll ever need.

[NitroTXT1]

nice.... i would've bought a sirio for mine they had one yesterday but i didn't have $150 to buy it and then another $50 for the exhaust....and besides i like the torque of the bigblocks so I decided to just put it on there....the sirio does have much higher rpms though

[concise auto]

just bought an mtracer new and paid $330 for the kit,is that a good price or did i get robbed?also what upgrades should i do right away if any?i will be useing it on a supercross style track.thanx

[NitroTXT1]

I think you got robbed especially if it was the kit only....you can get an mt racer rtr for like $250-$270 but for the kit alone you could've gotten a better price......as for upgrades it has most of the ones offered for the mt if I remember correctly....only thing left to do is fine tune the suspesion..buy a wider front bumper so that the a-arms don't crack

[concise auto]

the racer is different than the rtr u might be confused,but the racer comes with the factory upgrades.

[dping28]

It figures I get the MT2 and they release a new UPGRADED version of it :)

[hotbunz]

hey i got a question i just recently melted the clutch shoes on my mt, so i went to my lhs to buy a new clutch bell, but they didnt have the 11,12, or 13 tooth clutch bells but they did have the 14 tooth clutchbell. will that one work on the mt?