Nitro MT and MT Racer Forum V2.0

[doesgo]

Sure it will, you'll just have to slide the engine over a little bit, most likely. What engine do you have, what tires are you running and what bell tooth count were you running before?

[doesgo]

But....why do you need a new bell, anyway? The melted shoes shouldn't have damaged the bell.

[hotbunz]

i got a new bell cuz the melted shoes melted on the inside of the bell and i couldnt scrape it off so i just bought a new one. and i had the 13 tooth bell before that and i am running the .15fe

[hotbunz]

o yea and how would i slide the engine over??

[doesgo]

Going to a 14t from a 13t won't be too much of a change, but you'll probably notice a little less low-end punch.

[doesgo]

o yea and how would i slide the engine over??
Oh crap, you're running the FE! You'll need to get the HPI motor mounts and use those rather than the screws that go right into the bottom of the engine block. If you use the separate mounts, you'll use the slots in your chassis which allow for lateral engine movement. With the factory setup there's no adjustment, I don't think.

The HPI mounts are really cheap and a good investment.

[NitroTXT1]

does anyone know of a threaded clutch set that will fit a .26? let me know...i need the info please

[hotbunz]

hey just wondering if anyone tried putting in the rdlogics exotic performance side pipe on

http://www.rdlogics.com/store/P_263.htm

if anyone has i just wanted to kno if the pipe is any good since it looks so cool

[buzzsaw46]

Hi guys,

I'm looking to breath new life into my old MT. While I'm happy with my trucks top end speed I would like to get some low end grunt. I have been out of the car thing for a few years and it looks like my NR CX-12 is a bit outdated;) recently I have been looking at some of the new big bore small block .18's and it seems like the Epic always comes out looking like the best way to go, Has anyone here had a chance to compare it to some of the other 18's head to head? I guess the ones I'm most interested in are the OS CV-RX .18 the Epic .18 and the HPI .18SS. Oh And has anyone tried one of the .18s on the paris pipe or will I need to look for a new pipe also?

Here is a pic of the old dog(started life as a RTR)

[doesgo]

I'd definitely go with the O.S. .18CV-R rather than the Epic. The Epic is okay, but it's not very torquey and only slightly higher hp than the .15 CV-R, which in my opinion isn't quite enough for the NMT. It's got good rpm and therefore speed, but I was never too pleased with its low-end grunt.

I haven't run an .18CV-R myself, but everything I've read about it indicates it's quite strong throughout the rpm range.

Or buy a low-end big-block engine. :) You can get a brand-new GS .21 off eBay for under $80. It's not exactly a mega-powered engine for a big-block, but it'll blow any small-block out of the water.

[buzzsaw46]

The big block does almost seem to be the way to go. Who makes the best conversion for the MT? I have seen Wolfpack and New Era's are there any others?

[RCNitroDude999]

Hey guys, im looking to buy some associated white dish wheels for the new tires on my mt2, but does anyone know which ones will fit?

[doesgo]

I didn't use a conversion kit with mine, so I can't answer which is better. I've heard lots of good things about Wolfpack, though.

[sHiMsTeR2004]

wait you can directly bold a big block engine to a nmt?

[buzzsaw46]

I think I remeber reading that doesgo had some mounts custom made by a machinest friend.

[RCNitroDude999]

So no one knows what aftermarket wheels will fit the mt's axles?

[KevinxB]

I'm looking at getting an MT2 for bashing. Are there any things that are good to upgrade or change right away? Any weak or likely-to-break parts? I read something on an earlier page about shimming diffs. Whats up with that? Any other tips? Thanks for any help.

[doesgo]

I think I remeber reading that doesgo had some mounts custom made by a machinest friend.

No, that was Mossdog. I just used some mounts that are for my GS Storm buggy and drilled holes in the appropriate places in the chassis. I used a Savage header, converted to slide-carb linkage....everything was pretty easy, really.

[doesgo]

So no one knows what aftermarket wheels will fit the mt's axles?
I've run RPM wheels designed for the back of the RC10GT on my NMT. Also, RPM makes 2.2" truck wheels specifically designed for NMTs in two or three different styles.

[Skandranon]

KevinxB I have a mt 1 that I use for bashing and its a great truck. The only thing is it has a very low ground clearance and that is a big problem for bashing. Even a week old uncut grass really slows it down cause the bottom is being pushed up by the grass. I would not recomend the truck for this reason for bashing. I have mine for sale and am planing on getting a MT, a savage or a tnx. I should have done that in the first place. I keep kicking myself.

[nerv]

I wonder if I can put a .18 from Tamiya TNX (FS-18R) on my nitro mt. the Engine is about $108 on tower, and it looks almost the same as the OS .18 cvr. (I know O.S. makes engines for tamiya cars)

[T3guy]

Hey guys my buddy and I are selling custom parts for the NMT. so far only chassis's, but if the interest is up there we would like to sell arms,shock towers, all that good stuff. the stuff we sell is aimed toward bashers, seeing as the chassis is 4 mm thick. it is race-able too though. shoot me an email at hulk_customs@hotmail.com if your interested. right now the price is at about $35-$40 not annodized. it will go up if we do annodize, and it will be offered in a green color. I will be able to get a pic of the chassis soon. thanks! -Andy

[T3guy]

the adress is hulk_customs. you cant see the _ because of the link.....

[Skandranon]

FS-18R is an os engine. I seem to find it on tower. I have been told it will smoke the other .18 os engine.

[T3guy]

nobody wants some cool custom stuff? We upraded to a t6 aluminum so the chassis is closer to $50 shipped now. really nice stuff here. 2.5 mm chassis's go on ebay for around that, AND you gotta pay shipping. this is a great deal some a great product!

[Skandranon]

nerv do you have the link to the tnx .18? I cant find it on tower.

T3guy I dont think that, relitly speaking, there are all that many people with the nmt anymore. You would probably be better off making parts for a newer truck. I know alot of people over on terra crusher . net are waiting for aftermarket parts for the tnx for instance.

[rshooch]

I'm looking at getting an MT2 for bashing. Are there any things that are good to upgrade or change right away? Any weak or likely-to-break parts? I read something on an earlier page about shimming diffs. Whats up with that? Any other tips? Thanks for any help.

hey whats up i just bought my mt2 yesterday it is great. on thing u might want to look into getting is some front stand ups part #85076 after my brake in i went up my drive way and when i hit the little bump were the concreat starts my left bottom screw that holds the stand up in stripped out. :( i was going myaby 5 mph not fast at all.... but when i checked the rest of them they were all lose so check ur screws b4 u start running it other than that i had no problems and jumped it about 15 times about. the jumps were about 2 feet high ( 2 concrete bocks and a 3 foot bord) not a problem from the jumps yet but it seems to be a good truck and it hauls azz :)

btw the gas tank screws were loose to so check ALL of ur screws..

[T3guy]

thanks for the tip skandranon. We picked the NMT's because we both had one so it was easy to cut parts for it.

[nerv]

the link for the tamiya FS-18SR: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGZA0&P=0

[nerv]

I just upgrade my NMT with a titanium front Bumber made by F4i, I don't think I will break anything in the frontend again. My previous MT2 bumber works well, but now, it's a beautiful titanium bumber (only $25).

[duanewho]

Hey guys, a few posts back Doesgo and I talked about using 1/8 buggy shocks on our MT's, just wanted to pass on this link. These are the shocks I bought and from the same guy, they are a really good deal. They are a bit long so the truck sits a little high, but would be perfect if you go with the MT2 susension arms. Just thought I would pass it on if anyone is looking for new shocks :)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=19168&item=5915854627&rd=1

[NitroTXT1]

yes the gs .21 is like a direct fit as well..but for those of us like me who want a little more power and tuneablility....we use something like a mach .26 again not the most expensive motor on the market but powerful....bought mine off ebay for $106 shipped...brandnew with box and had decals and instructions....I only need a clutch kit that can fit a .21 that is threaded shaft...does anyone know what i can use? because i really need the clutch kit...the rest is easy!

I forgot who asked but NMT can accept .21 with nice adjustable motor mount something like ofna or what i have which is the kyosho heat sink adjustable motor mounts $20...not to bad and then depending on the motor you will need to make spacers for the ps assembly to clear the chassis...with the mach u need that...I have already found the spacers to mount now all i need is to line the motor up correctly and then i need to drill holes and get my clutch kit.

[NitroTXT1]

oh yeah almost forgot...can someone help me find a threaded shaft clutch kit for the mach .26 please? I really need it...once aquired i can greenlight the remaining part of my NMT .26 project...should have some pics soon and then after i get money from my job i will get some nice titanium parts for the truck

[doesgo]

I put a Force .21 in my NMT that had a threaded crank, I just used an OFNA clutch nut for a GT LX buggy. It's a generic .21 threaded crank clutch nut, though. If you go to www.nitrohouse.com you might be able to find the Ultra GT LX parts list which will give you the part number. The nut is the only difference, effectively, between the threaded crank and SG crank. The same flywheel, clutch, springs, and bell fit either crank.

And to make life easy, toss the pullstarter and use a starter box! :)

[NitroTXT1]

yeah.....but right now i just want to get er running...eventhough i really wish i would've traded this motor for the truck instead of my hyper 8 port which already had a clutch setup...oh well...I would be willing to trade this engine straight up for a non ps ver. but i don't think i would get anyone to do that and that's too much of hassle..but thanks for the info now i can possibly get this car up soon.

BTW...how does the truck handle on the track with all the low end? I knew a guy who owned one a while back way before the new era conversion with a picco .21 and he said that it could easily keep up with 1/8th buggies....

[doesgo]

I don't see why it wouldn't keep up with 1/8 buggies as far as speed goes, but the buggies handle really, really well. After I get mine going again I might just give it a shot!

You probably knew this, but just in case.....you CAN use a starter box on a pullstart engine. The only downside of the pullstarter being on there is a tiny amount of weight and a tiny amount of drag from the one-way bearing. And the room it takes up, of course.

[MarNaDaKi]

I know that replacing the stock wheel on the MT/MT2 by those one
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/wheels/mtssdo.jpg
would make the car wider.

But I'm wondering if there are any other wheels by any manufacturer that have yet a greater offset :confused:

Anyone knows ?

[MarNaDaKi]

Tired of waiting for an answer on my previous question, I went ahead and installed 4 Super Star Universal wheels # 2140. It makes the truck wider to the exact same width as my t4.

Now another question :

For them having the MT2, are you popping shock caps like on the MT ?

[H-Trainer]

You probably overfilled your shocks. I'd recommend Tamiya Twin Cap shocks, long for the rear and medium for the front, they're top quality. Pictures on my website, under SNR Mods and SNR Pictures.

[MarNaDaKi]

You probably meant Kyosho Twin Cap shocks.

Don't forget that on the MT2, the shocks are longer than MT's. On the MT2, the front shocks are about the same length as the MT rear ones, while the rear are even longer.

Are there any substitute for the rear one on the MT2 ?

[dping28]

Anyone know of any good threaded shocks to replace the rear ones on an MT2? maybe a hair longer then stock? I dont want to wait for the HPI ones to come out some time in sept. :) plus dont exactly like the purple :) Thanks!

[mook]

Hi gents

I was looking through Tower Hobbies catalogue and the nitro racer mt caught my eye.It looks like a quality product and i think I will get one in the next month or so.But i have a few questions

1) is it a kit? I dont fancy rtr
2) does it have brakes
3) Can i drop a .21 motor in without to much hassle
4) if so, would a kyosho gs21r fit?

cheers

mook

[cduna]

Hey Dping
get the Cvds man that bad to the bone Sirio .18 is gonna twist up those dog bones then get the Giga :)

[Jetskiboy77]

Hi gents

I was looking through Tower Hobbies catalogue and the nitro racer mt caught my eye.It looks like a quality product and i think I will get one in the next month or so.But i have a few questions

1) is it a kit? I dont fancy rtr
2) does it have brakes
3) Can i drop a .21 motor in without to much hassle
4) if so, would a kyosho gs21r fit?

cheers

mook
I think the Nitro MT Racer is a great quality kit. So here are the answers to your ?s.

1) Yes it is. The racer is a kit with no radio or engine.

2) Yes it has brakes and they work well, and you can always upgrade to metal disks and fiber pads.

3) I dropped a .21 into mine. I dont know if you would consider it too much of a hassle. All I did was use the mounts from New Era Models (about 80$ I think), put those onto a Ofna Hyper 8 Port, and screwed it into the chassis and set up the side carb linkage. I also upgraded the diffs later on, which I didnt really need to do since I dont jump the truck or abuse the power in it.

(Go to this site to check it out: http://www.kedar.itgo.com/tipz.html) and go to the .21 conversion link.

4)I think that engine will fit just fine, but correct me if I am wrong.

[NitroTXT1]

The GS21 R should fit without much hassle at all because I had the older version and the holes lined up directly with the adjustable holes already in the chassis...but if u opt for a more powerful mill than u can do it your self or buy a new era models conversion...me myself I am doing it myself....all u need are motor mounts and just line up the holes and re-drill....XTM offers an exhaust kit that's a perfect fit...unfortunately i don't have the product #

[doesgo]

I used a Savage header to clear the shocks and after that pretty much any big-block pipe will work. The location of the pressure nipple is the biggest hassle with the pipe, but I'm successfully using a buggy pipe on mine.

[mook]

sounds good

I've got a kyosho landmax with a gs21r and in the coming months i am going to uprgade to a more powerful motor. If the gs21r fits, thenTopBanana.

thanks for info.

[doesgo]

Keep in mind you'll have to step up in the spring/shock department to deal with the additional weight of the big-block and I'd suggest running a 125cc OFNA buggy tank on the truck, too. I'm running GS Storm shocks, Storm engine mounts, Storm clutch and bell, and a Storm pipe on mine and so far, so good with a steel 49-tooth spur.

[T3guy]

Hey I just got my nitro mt racer, and I am wondering if these hop-ups are worth trading some stuff for...

solid nmt rear end
*locked diff
*hardend ring gear
*hardend pionion gear
*hardend outdrives
*1 pair of cvds ( I already got CVD's, but one is bent... :cool: )

anyone know how much this stuff is worth? thanks!
by the way I don't plan to race, just bash.

-Andy

[doesgo]

All but the locked diff is good stuff in my opinion, although not everyone agrees whether the hardened ring and pinion are worth the high price. I have stock RS4 on-road gears in my diffs, properly shimmed, and they've lasted for quite some time with 1+hp engines.

I'd check the prices you'd have to pay for that stuff on Tower Hobbies' website and then figure used stuff is usually worth 50%-70% of new, depending on condition of course.

[Jetskiboy77]

I think those hardened gears are good/bad. I wouldnt get the 38 tooth (I think thats the tooth count) but I would get the hardened 13 tooth because if you run the hardened 13 tooth and the stock 38 tooth and one of them strips its going to be the the 38 tooth. When that one stips the 13 tooth should be fine and it will only cost you about 5 dollars for a new 38 tooth one which is much better than 35$ or whatever the 38 tooth one costs. I have spent a lot of money on my truck and saw no point in spending the extra money on those gears. I dont know if any of you have seen my truck but I spent why too much money on it. I run a Hyper 8 Port and a 2 speed and have never stripped any gears, not the diffs nor the 2 plastic gears in the center or the clutchbell gears. For a while I even had the stock gears in there with 8 gallons on them and ran the .21, the only reason I changed them is because I didnt want any stock parts on my car. But if you get both the hardened gears for much cheaper then normally, shim them perfect, I think you will be fine.

[duanewho]

Hey doesgo, you mentioned running a 125cc Ofna tank in your truck, is that a drop in fit or did you have to cut the upper deck? If it is a drop in, do you know what exact tank that is, I want to get a bigger tank to go with my new 18ss but I also want to get an aluminum or titanium upper deck so I need something that fits the stock location. Thanks!

[doesgo]

You can use the stock front tank mount location but you have to remove that "finger" of the upper deck that goes behind the stock tank. I ran it with a stock upper deck at first and now with a Powerline upper deck. Other than that "finger" it fits great!

It's a tank out of an OFNA LX Pro buggy. It's got a sintered bronze filter in it, good baffles, rear pickup, and no primer.

Here is a pic and some links to more pice from when I first installed it:

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank6.jpg

Picture 2 (http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank1.jpg)

Picture 3 (http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank2.jpg)

Picture 4 (http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank3.jpg)

Picture 5 (http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank4.jpg)

Picture 6 (http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank5.jpg)

Picture 7 (http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank7.jpg)

Picture 8 (http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank8.jpg)

Picture 9 (http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank9.jpg)

Picture 10 (http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank10.jpg)

[duanewho]

Thanks for the pics, that looks like the same 125cc tank I have right now, I have it mounted pretty much the same way except with a wire rear mount instead of that aluminum post. Oh well, looks like I am going to do some cutting if i get a metal upper deck...
BTW, is your pipe and chassis powdercoated or painted? They look sweet!

[doesgo]

They're powdercoated. Thanks a lot!

Things have changed a lot now, though. I've got that pipe and engine in my RC10GT, I've stacked two stock NMT chassis together for strength, added the Powerline upper deck, installed a GS Racing .21 engine/flywheel/clutch/clutchbell, steel spur, Savage header, GS pipe, GS Storm shocks, and Masher 2000 tires. It's getting to be quite fun. :)

[storm]

ok guys i just got my hands on a hpi nitro rs4 mt..im looking for some upgrades for it ...and i was wondering how good of a motor does this have in it ...im kinda new to this ..my nephew got me into this with his etraxx that he just got .....thx :confused:

[rshooch]

hi im kinda new to this nitro stuff stuff dont laugh at me to hard lol.. any way i have a nmt 2 my clutch bell is 12 tooth what would i gain or what should i expext with a 14 tooth gear?? also my cluch bell busted.. the bell part just spins around but it will still catch the clutches to move the truck.. when i noticed that it was busted i stoped driving it but what i did notice is that the engine would stall out at idle could this also be the cause??

any other gear suggestions would help to im looking to get alittle better bottom end but i dont want to lose to much top end..

[josh222]

HI, I finished converting my SS into a MTSS and do these specs sound good? 3" of clearence 5" of flex

[storm]

ok guys i haveing problems with this 15fe ...it wont stay running for more then 5 mins at a time ....do these things over heat alot or something...if this is the case ...someone tell me a good way to keep this thing cool... :mad:

[rshooch]

sounds like to me that ur running to lean try richining it out a little and go from there. and make sure u have good air flow over the heat sink... just make sure that when u make ur adjustments to let it run for a few minutes. i would get in a hurry and not give the motor enought time to adjust to the air/fuel flow and ran into that problem to. hope this helps :)

[storm]

thx man ...i will see what happens...also was wondering if i might be able to fit a savage 25 {i think thats the one** :confused: ...in this to ...is it that much work...or if you know of a good motor thats gives good hp ...let me know ...thx again :)

[doesgo]

The easiest way to get more power that's reliable is drop in an O.S. .18CV-RX engine. Any small block will pretty much drop right in, but for the price, power, reliability, and quality, it's tough to beat O.S.

You'll need HPI motor mounts, but more-or-less everything else should bolt right on if you get the engine with a threaded crank.

You CAN put a Savage .25 in an NMT, but it's much more difficult.

[doesgo]

HI, I finished converting my SS into a MTSS and do these specs sound good? 3" of clearence 5" of flex

5" of flex? What do you mean by "flex"?

[doesgo]

hi im kinda new to this nitro stuff stuff dont laugh at me to hard lol.. any way i have a nmt 2 my clutch bell is 12 tooth what would i gain or what should i expext with a 14 tooth gear?? also my cluch bell busted.. the bell part just spins around but it will still catch the clutches to move the truck.. when i noticed that it was busted i stoped driving it but what i did notice is that the engine would stall out at idle could this also be the cause??

any other gear suggestions would help to im looking to get alittle better bottom end but i dont want to lose to much top end..

If you want more bottom end, you need to drop to an 11-tooth bell. The more teeth on the bell, the slower your acceleration rate will be but the higher your top speed will be, in theory.

I'm not really understanding what's going on with your clutch bell, sorry.

[josh222]

ok let me put it this way, i can put one wheel on a pop can and all the others are still on the ground :)

[doesgo]

Oh, I get it! That's definitely monster truck territory!

[josh222]

you think so? A pop can is about the biggest i can do, plus I made a ram bar so ruff stuff here i come

[storm]

The easiest way to get more power that's reliable is drop in an O.S. .18CV-RX engine. Any small block will pretty much drop right in, but for the price, power, reliability, and quality, it's tough to beat O.S.

You'll need HPI motor mounts, but more-or-less everything else should bolt right on if you get the engine with a threaded crank.

You CAN put a Savage .25 in an NMT, but it's much more difficult.
hey thx for the info does...i have been looking around for a new motor for this thing

[storm]

i want to see some picz of this truck

[doesgo]

No problem, Storm. Hope it helps. I must say, however, after yesterday I don't think I'll ever go back to a small-block in my NMT. The used GS .21 I got for $40 and dropped in my NMT is just WAY too fun! :)

Which truck do you want to see pics of? Josh222's?

[josh222]

I don't have a digy cam

[storm]

No problem, Storm. Hope it helps. I must say, however, after yesterday I don't think I'll ever go back to a small-block in my NMT. The used GS .21 I got for $40 and dropped in my NMT is just WAY too fun! :)

Which truck do you want to see pics of? Josh222's?
ya josh222's truck ...no cam josh...well you gotta get one then....lol....my mind is just going crazy trying to find more bang for the buck ....is there alot involved in droping a big block on one of these ....man does ..do me a favor ....please email me or something let me know whats al involved ...if you can ...im gonna have all winter to work on this and to get up grades ...when i get done i'll post some pics...thx again

[doesgo]

I'll try to get some pics of mine and explain what I did to get my .21 in there. Next couple days it should happen...

[Jetskiboy77]

For my Big Block Conversion I used these items:

Mounts (http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?session_id=rncdmunmgkobwargimrbxdotywwdcp tc&part_id=710)

Engine (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXESC3&P=ML)

Pipe (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBYG4&P=7
)

Ofna Slide Carb Linkage (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXARF2&P=7)

The Hyper 8 Port comes with a header. I also have the HPI 2 Speed transmission in there and have upgraded all the parts in the drivetrain. Everything drops right in, the conversion isnt very hard just take your time and make sure everything is in right. The $$$ is the hard part of this conversion, but you only have to do it once.

Another great site is this link for any info if you still have questions. Go to Tipz and click .21 Conversion.
Kedar (www.kedar.itgo.com/rc.html)

[storm]

:) hey does, jet....man you guys have been a big help ...thx for the site ...and i cant wait to see some pics does.. :)

[josh222]

I am gwetting a 18CVR, it has 1.6HP :eek: tested by RC driver and is a Torque Monster :D

[Jetskiboy77]

Just took pics for another thread, and found this pic that may show everything a little better.

[nitecrawler]

hello peeps

My nitro MT runs a Picco .15, and a 14 tooth bell. Its well quick, but bogs down a bit before it takes off. I've got a Nitro racing clutch, set on the middle hole, like most people. I was thinking of trying the third set set of holes - so the rev's go up more before the clutch engages. Anyone tried this setup?

Cheers

[doesgo]

I did that with my Fantom .15 and it worked GREAT! I'd definitely give it a shot. I think a 14-tooth bell might be a bit tall for it too, but cutting the clutch is free. :)

[doesgo]

....man does ..do me a favor ....please email me or something let me know whats al involved ...if you can ...im gonna have all winter to work on this and to get up grades ...when i get done i'll post some pics...thx again
Here are some pics I took this week. I used GS Storm buggy engine mounts, simply drilled holes in the chassis for the mount screws after lining everything up. The brake disc is very close to the clutch bell, but they don't hit. The slide carb linkage was pretty simple, and I removed the pullstart unit. If you have any questions just ask.

NMT with:
two stock chassis plates JB Welded together
Powerline aluminum upper deck
titanium turnbuckles
Gimpy steel spur
slipper clutch locked down
RS4 on-road gears in the diffs, all shimmed
GS .21 B01 engine, flywheel, 3-shoe clutch
14-tooth clutch bell
OFNA buggy air filter
Savage header
RB 086 pipe
GS Storm buggy shocks
OFNA LX Pro buggy fuel tank
Mossdog bumpers
RPM wheels
Pro-Line Masher 2000 tires

Here are the first three shots, all beat-up and dirty...

http://www.doesgo.com/rc/nmtbb1s.jpg

http://www.doesgo.com/rc/nmtbb2s.jpg

http://www.doesgo.com/rc/nmtbb3s.jpg

[doesgo]

And four more...

http://www.doesgo.com/rc/nmtbb4s.jpg

http://www.doesgo.com/rc/nmtbb5s.jpg

http://www.doesgo.com/rc/nmtbb6s.jpg

http://www.doesgo.com/rc/nmtbb7s.jpg

[josh222]

MY MTSS has the same shocks and tires but i have mine sitting at 3'' :)

[Jetskiboy77]

LoL mine and Doesgo`s trucks are so different. His is an awesome monster truck type with big tires and slipper clutch and big power and mine is an extremely lowered ( I think its called "slammed"?) stadium truck with street tires and 2 speed, but also big power. Gotta` love the big power. :p :p
Your yellow chassis is very cool looking too, its also nice because its different from all the purple.

Yay my 100th post :D :D :D

[josh222]

lol, mine is jacked to the sky with the mashers and some filed down suspention.
Yay my 1218post :p

[jc2stroke2]

what can i do about my spur gear it keeps striping can i get a metel one or what this isdriveing me crazy,thanks for the help,jc

[josh222]

how is your gear mesh set, sounds like you got it tight

[jc2stroke2]

its ok ive tried every thing and cant get it right the chassis aint bent or nothin

[Jetskiboy77]

Yay my 1218post :p


Damn you, :p I will catch up to you one day. (prob not)

[josh222]

I had a lold account before this one that had been on since 2001, with that one included i would have about 2000posts :D

[Jetskiboy77]

Im almost there :p :p

[josh222]

lol :)

[T3guy]

i stripped my spur gear for the first time the other day, and i cant get the sucker out to replace it? i have a slipper clutch. HELP?

lol it sounds stupid i just got the truck and i dont have a manual....

thanks

[fuzzy2133]

HPI has the manual on their site. you will have to go to the cars page and at the bottom there is a "Discontinued Kits" select the Nitro MT and near the top next to "catalog" there will be a link to "manual".

http://www.hpiracing.com/index2.htm

[racinlosi]

Well, I just got a Nitro MT! I traded my E-Maxx for it, and it's getting her this coming week/weekend! :D Here are some pics if it that I got:

www.3sportleague.com/images/IMG_0180.JPG
www.3sportleague.com/images/IMG_0181.JPG
www.3sportleague.com/images/IMG_0182.JPG
www.3sportleague.com/images/IMG_0183.JPG www.3sportleague.com/images/IMG_0184.JPG
www.3sportleague.com/images/IMG_0185.JPG
www.3sportleague.com/images/IMG_0186.JPG
www.3sportleague.com/images/IMG_0188.JPG

Enjoy! :D

[Jetskiboy77]

Uh oh, you have aluminum A-arms. J/p I have them and I love them and there great, contrary to what many people will say about them. Nice truck. What engine is that? Is that a OS .12 CVX in there?

[racinlosi]

haha, I don't care what people think about aluminum arms! I have them on my e-maxx(soon to be ex-owned maxx. Had to get the NMT :D ) and they worked fantastic! The only thing I might do to them is take off the purple seeing I don't like the purple anodized onto the arms.

You were close, here is the engine and all the stuff I am getting with it(quote from the "ex"-owner of it):

"O.S .15 CV-R
blue tube performance header
Dynamite tuned pipe
Aluminum front and rear a-arms
Aluminum front threaded shocks
3 Titanium tie rods(1 missing)
Aluminum front diff case...actually back..I moved them when I cleaned and re-built the diffs.
Aluminum hinge pin brace
Aluminum high flow air filter
RPM clawz wheels.
Futaba Magnum 2 ch radio."

Seems pretty good to me. I am going to get a .21 convertion for it sooner or later, MORE POWER!!! :D I would do a dual engine like Iced did, but I don't really want to make it(too hard for me IMO. Nor am I experianced enough for nitro). Any suggestions thoug for me and the NMT and what to do to it? I really don't want to read through 40+ pages, I do have a life. :rolleyes:

[Kenny T]

BL conversion!!! :D

[Kenny T]

After looking at the pics, I recommend you get an aluminium upper deck or a WPR shock tower brace.

[marctroy]

What are the differences between the Nitro MT and the MT2? I can get a good deal on a NIB MT and was wondering if it's worth spending more for the MT2.

[Kenny T]

The MT2 has longer shocks.
MT2 uses the RS4 3 radio box which means there is no upper deck, the NMT has a cheap, thin, flexy upper deck.
MT2 has fibre disk brake while the NMT has a plastic disk.
The MT2 has an upgraded slipper. The NMT does't have a slipper.
MT2 has the much better T-15 engine, 15FE for the NMT.
MT2 has better bumpers.
MT2 has 2.5mm chassis, 2mm for NMT.
MT2 has larger dogbones and drivecups.
Prepainted body for MT2
Rotostart for MT2, pullstart for NMT

I think that's all.

[prospec92]

Has anyone with an MT installed a Sirio .18 with pullstart (designed for the t-maxx) ?? I got a good deal on this engine and didn't realize the header design was for the T-maxx. I want to make it work but was wondering if anyone has any tips on this setup. There are a couple of choices for exhaust pipes: Fantom works pipe and the Sirio big bore pipe. Will this setup work or should I go with a different engine/pipe combo altogether?

[PaulH]

The MT2 has longer shocks.
MT2 uses the RS4 3 radio box which means there is no upper deck, the NMT has a cheap, thin, flexy upper deck.
MT2 has fibre disk brake while the NMT has a plastic disk.
The MT2 has an upgraded slipper. The NMT does't have a slipper.
MT2 has the much better T-15 engine, 15FE for the NMT.
MT2 has better bumpers.
MT2 has 2.5mm chassis, 2mm for NMT.
MT2 has larger dogbones and drivecups.
Prepainted body for MT2
Rotostart for MT2, pullstart for NMT

I think that's all.

If you compare the MT2 to the NMT Racer kit, they are very similar. The new radio tray, bumpers, and longer shocks are the only significant changes. The Racer came with MIP CVDs instead of dogbones, and did not come with an engine at all. I have an O.S. 15 CVR in mine that I start with a starter box.

[Kenny T]

I took the NMT Racer over the MT2. The front CVD's in mine are bent for some reason(I must have hit something because I don't think they'll go out of balance on their own.)

I want to get a 18CV-R(X) but I don't think I can get it so for the time being so it's going to stay brushless powered.

[racinlosi]

After looking at the pics, I recommend you get an aluminium upper deck or a WPR shock tower brace.


I will. I am wanting to get the 4 stroke convertion for it so I can have HUGE power in it and some(if not, more) better speed(if I can get it, I am doing some huge research on this). But right now, I am on a budget(having money on hand) for RC and I am trying to keep it to a minimum. Got to love High School! :D

[Kenny T]

I'm pretty sure you won't get more speed out of a 4 stroke conversion. The power and fuel economy will be there though. I read a report on a OS FS26 converted FW-04 and he said the speed of a 2 stroke wasn't there.

[doesgo]

By their very design, 2-strokes make more power than 4-strokes, since they go through the power stroke twice as often for a given rpm. Not only that, 2-strokes can rev higher than 4-strokes.

I think a 4-stroke RC would be cool to build and play with, but you really need to compensate for the lower specific output with more displacement, which means more size and weight.....it's a vicious cycle.

[fuzzy2133]

yes a 2 stroke will out rev a 4 stroke however the 4 stroke will have better torque than the 2 stroke. I was thinking that a 4 stroke with 2-speed tranny would be able to keep up. if you could get RB Innovations to make a super charger for it then things would get interesting. just my $0.02

[doesgo]

Good point. I think a supercharger would work a LOT better on a 4-stroke than a 2-stroke. Unfortunately racinlosi is on a budget. :(

[Jetskiboy77]

Superchargers do work much better on 4 strokes. And with the 4 stroke conversion, I think it would be better (and maybe cheaper) to just get the .21 conversion with a decent big block engine. Then you will have all the power you need.

[racinlosi]

Wow, never thought that the supercharger would work well on a 4 stroke! Or are you guys just kiddin' with me? After seeing the thread I created about a 4 stroke in a NMT, it might not be worth it after all. So I am thinking about gettiung a .21, or even a .28 in it*cough cough WASP .28!!!!*cough cough*. But a 4 stroke with a supercharger sounds VERY interesting. Anyone have any other thoughts or info about somthing like this?

[fuzzy2133]

a supercharger on a 4 stroke would be more effictive since ther is an exhaust and intake vlaves to help keep the packed air and fuel in the combustion chamber. the problem I see with getting a supercharger on will be with the carb being on the back side of the engine.

here is a pic of the OS FS-40 engine that has been discontinued.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXD66&P=0

once you can get the supercharger connected to the carb, have enough space under the body and get the exhaust routed you are home free. another + of 4 strokes is that you no longer need a tuned exhaust system, some tubing for a header, if you want a simple chamber to act as a muffler and that is all you need since the engine has an exhaust valve to seal the combustion chamber. :D

[racinlosi]

Seems like everything that has to do with a 4 stroke in a car will be discontintued or not practical!

Well, I was looking at neweramodels again, and got myself really confused! What is how do I tell which engines will fit one convertion or the other? Here are the two convertions for a .21-.28(no four stroke route for me at this moment, sorry guys! Maybe later on :D):

http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?session_id=xaekryoaxcruvicqkygknmdrrmpeqe cd&part_id=36

http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?session_id=xaekryoaxcruvicqkygknmdrrmpeqe cd&part_id=709


Also, could a pull start engine still be used on a starter box without modification? Or what would I need to do to get that to work?(I have the WASP .28 in mind) And what convertion kit would work with the WASP .28 pullstart(I know those links arn't right then)?

[fuzzy2133]

I am going to say that you should contact new era on the conversions. a pull start engine on a starter box will work however there may not be enough room on the engine mounts. just have the starter box wheel turn the same direction as when you use the pull start string.

[Kenny T]

One's for pilot shaft shaft engines, the other is for standard/threaded crankshaft engines. I've forgotten the names of the different types of crankshaft, I'm not sure if threaded is the same as standard.

Here's a link (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHGU0&P=ML) to the engine on tower hobbies. By looking at the picture you can tell what kind of crank it has. I'm sure you guys can figure out the rest.

Say you were beefing up an NMT Racer for a speed run (60-70/80mph), what would you guys do? I'm stumped on what to upgrade. I've got the HD final gears F&R and I'm planning on the wolfpack shocktower brace. I'll shim up the diffs to reduce teh play. Slipper will be locked or very tight.

[racinlosi]

This (http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?part_id=710&session_id=xaekryoaxcruvicqkygknmdrrmpeqecd)Is the convertion that the WASP .28 will work with(pulstart). I emailed them and that is the answer they gave me.

Also, should the answer to Kenny T also work with the Nitro MT, not hte Racer version? And what suggestions would you recomend for a the clutch and clutch bell for the NMT if I use the WASP .28?

[fuzzy2133]

if you are to do nothing other than go fast...

a very large CB and a small spur, and large tires. Savage 18 tooth CB with a 49 tooth spur and stock savage tires and rims will get you to about 60mph if your engine can spin to about 27200 rpm. both the clutch and slipper will need to be set just right. these this is just using info off tower and radio control zone RC calculator.

calculator link - http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/cars/calculator.asp

oh yea not to mention the tire diameter will increase when the tires balloon out and that changes your final drive ratio making the engine work even harder and you will then loose some top speed.

[Kenny T]

I'm not worried about reaching the speed, I know it can. The problem is lets say a gust of wind from in front pushes the front end up and makes the truck lift off the ground at 60mph. I know something's gotta break but what will? This is what I'm confused about. I don't mind if all the arms break because they're cheap.

What should I strengthen/upgrade?

racinlosi, it will work on either truck.

[H-Trainer]

Get the Wolfpack .21 conversion. It's not only a lot better, but even cheaper. http://www.wolfpackradicals.com/html/_21_big_crank_case.html

[Jetskiboy77]

I rememeber a while ago someone tried to make it go 60 and I think theres one on Wolfpacks site. I think they had a hard time doing that but many nicer engines have come out since then. And when the tires get bigger from balooning I think you gain a little more speed not loose any even tho the engine may have to work harder.

[doesgo]

It's all about rpm vs. gearing and power output vs. drag (drag within the drivetrain and aerodynamics). If you can increase your rpm capabilities, optimize your gearing, add power, or decrease drag, you'll go faster.

Keep in mind the significant differences between tires. Some are quite heavy and soft, which means they can expand (balloon) with speed, but they take more power to turn and their soft compound and width will add friction. I think the best thing would be some 1/8-scale buggy on-road tires and wheels because they're narrow (less wind drag and road friction), relatively hard (less road friction), and can handle high speeds, and then do your best to gear the truck to make the best use of its engine's power and rpm.

[racinlosi]

So, if I had an engine with all the clutch parts and stuff like that on it, and I got the WolfPack .21 convertion, would I just need to install and relink everything and I am ready to run then? Or is there anything special I need to do to the truck?

[doesgo]

You'll likely need to convert your throttle/brake servo linkage to a slide-carb setup, but that's no big deal. I'd suggest going to a 125cc fuel tank too, for longer run times.

Other than that, though, it's pretty simple. Strength and durability issues aside, of course.

[Jetskiboy77]

The weight of that engine puts a lot of weight on that side. With the bigger tank and more fuel you may have a very lopsided car. I dont think Im going to put tank in my truck, even with my Hyper 8 Port. I dont think its worth the wierd weight distributation. I also get pretty good run times with the racer tank.

[doesgo]

To each his own. I've got a 125cc and a big-block and while that side is a little heavier, I haven't noticed it being a problem, even on the track.

[Jetskiboy77]

Yeah thats true. That side on my NMT isnt too weighted, but in my RS4 3 I put in a racing engine with no pullstart and that side is really weighted. Makes no sense to me. :confused:

[racinlosi]

Yeah, if anything, just make it so your shocks have more preload on one side than the other. But it will still be off balenced in the air. But I won't be racing it so it should be fine.

Well, I got hte NMT today, and it looks awesome! I juse need a new body because the one I have now is a little thrashed. But I do have a question about it. What is the best/easiest way to get the Receiver Battery thing out? It seems like it's a hassel, or am I just missing something?

[Kenny T]

Take the radio box off, undo the removable zip tie. That's all I do.

[buzzsaw46]

HEHEHE I just charge them up on the truck;)

[racinlosi]

Yeah, that's why I am wanting to get a reciever pack now. :(

[fuzzy2133]

I love having a charging jack for the rx pack, makes life simple.

[Jetskiboy77]

Getting the rechargable bats. are the best thing especially when you have the charging jack. Just plug it in and charge, no taking anything off to get to it.

[buzzsaw46]

The new switch w/charge jack and Nicds where my first upgrade!! I hate dry cells in radios:mad:

[Scorpiosis]

what 2 speed will fit an mt2?

[Jetskiboy77]

You might me able to use the one from HPI for the original NMT and you may also be able to fit Wolfpack Radicals 2 Speed in there. Im not too sure I think itll fit because I have the slipper clutch from NMT2 in my NMT1 and it fits perfect

[Jetskiboy77]

Does anyone use the Carbon Graphite support pole from Wolf Pack Radicals? Im thinkin about getting it, but not sure if its worth it. It looks really good though.

[Kenny T]

The shock tower brace? I'm definitely getting it when I get a 18 CV-RX.

[Jetskiboy77]

lol I have a Hyper 8 Port in there, so I want all the chassis support I can get, although the aluminum upperdeck and thicker chassis are taking it just fine.

[RCNitroDude999]

Just wanting to see if anyone can help me here...I just installed a 2 speed in my friends mt2, but cant get the shift point right? Any know how far the adjustment screw should be turned out?

[Jetskiboy77]

2.5 turns I think. You know to screw the angled screw in untill it stops, and dont over tighten, then back it out about that many turns. It depeneds on what engine though, but you can use that as a starting point. What engine do you have in there? The more power the father it will have to be screwed in.

[RCNitroDude999]

picco omega .12

[Jetskiboy77]

So you may need to screw it in a little more. Just try 2.5 as a starting point and it will probaly shift too early. Then screw it in about 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn untill it shifts at the perfect spot.

[wrecked]

Hi, i am seriously considering selling my nitromt. its got some hopups like cvd's and aluminum shocks. it also has a newly rebuilt os 15-cvr. all eletronics would be included plus 2 bodys, a parts car and alot of extra parts. it also comes with a handheld starter which i bought for $50 the only reason why i want to sell it is because the diffs keep blowing out. i was just wondeing if anyone is interested in this deal. If have any questions contact me at skatecrownroyal@aol.com. im looking for around $200.

Thanks
Jason

[Interstate]

I think buying and selling has been banned on these boards, please re-read the rules.

[Jetskiboy77]

Theres a selling section I think. This belongs there.

[slaf]

Hi guys !

I just bought an used MT Racer. I'd like to know if OS .18CVR is too much power for the stock drivetrain ?

Does someone put some T-Maxx size tires on a NMT ?

[buzzsaw46]

The .18 CV-R will probably be hard on the diffs and rear drive shaft, Those are the parts my Novarossi CX.12 always broke but the .18 is in a whole new league of power. I just got an .18 CV-R for my NMT also but I doubt I will get a chance to run it anytime soon. Your slipper clutch should absorb some of the tranny breaking power.

Not sure I would want to run maxx sized tires on an NMT, it would just tear up the tranny that much quicker.

[fuzzy2133]

Go for it and let the rest of us know how it does. buzzsaw46 is right, it may put alot of stress in the drivetrain. Maxx tires on a NMT will cause more problems then it is worth. I know a few people around here run Pro-lines Masher 2000's.

Masher 2000 Link (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUM93&P=ML)

[slaf]

What do I need to bullet proof the drivetrain ?

If OS .18CVR is too much power, is OS .12CVR enough power ?

[fuzzy2133]

yes the .12CVR will have enough power. you might want to also consider the OS .12TR. I think the only difference is rear exhaust VS side exhaust. Have you checked out the Fantom Nitro Engine line?

[slaf]

I didn't check Fantom, I'm a big OS fan....:)

Do you know what will I need to bulletproof my diff for .18 ?

[doesgo]

I ran a .15CV-R in mine and wasn't quite satisfied with the power output, so it depends on what you like and what you want to do with your vehicle.

Now I've got a GS .21 B01 in mine and it's much more satisfying. :) I've a steel spur, Rush rear outdrives, and on-road diff gears in back, but otherwise the drivetrain is stock. I've had some problems with breaking rear dogbones, diff outdrives, and axle stubs. I bought the MT2 axle stubs, outdrives, and dogbones which are slightly beefier than the NMT stuff so I'm hoping that'll end my troubles.

The .18CV-R probably isn't any more powerful than my .21, but it'll probably be pushing the limits of stock parts.

[fuzzy2133]

as for the drivetrain I run a fantom .15 the only problem I ran into is tighten the slipper more than what the manual says or you will just melt the spur gear.

I can agree with being an OS fan. I got the TR in a RC10GT and it is as nice as the CVR.

[doesgo]

I didn't check Fantom, I'm a big OS fan....:)

Do you know what will I need to bulletproof my diff for .18 ?

Shim it properly and replace the stock gears with RS4 on-road gears. They're made differently and are stronger, yet they're interchangeable with NMT gears.

[doesgo]

fuzzy's advice with the spur is spot-on. I was melting spurs with my .15CV-R until I pretty much locked down the slipper. And then I got a steel spur and had no more problems. :)

[slaf]

Do you mean the diff bevel gears (A850a and A850b) + Final gears (A855a and A855b) ??

[doesgo]

The bevel gears. The final gears are specific to the NMT, I believe. I still run the shimmed stock final gears and have had no problems, although heavy-duty gears are available at quite a price.

[slaf]

What do you mean by on-road diff gear in the back ? Which gear is it ?

[Kenny T]

The diff gears from the RS4 3. The part numbers for each of the part numbers is 86014a(13t) and 86014b(10t).

[slaf]

I found this web site.... -> http://www.kedar.itgo.com/tipz.html#diff

[doesgo]

Kedar's website has tons of great NMT hop-up information, not just the diff upgrade stuff. Be sure to check it all out.

[Jetskiboy77]

Kedars site helpen me with like 90% of what to do with my NMT. The ball bearing conversions and the metal disk brakes are worth checking out. I did both those mods to my NMT and my RS4 3 and theyre great. Its definity worth your time to read through his sie. Doesgo, or anyone, do you know what happened to him? I havent seen his site updated or seen him post anywhere in a while.

[doesgo]

No, I haven't seen nor heard anything from him in quite some time. I wonder where he went?

[Jetskiboy77]

Does he even still own a NMT? I would think so because the site is still up. Wasnt he a lawyer or something? He probably really busy with that, too busy for us and NMTs. :(

[slaf]

How does a .21 NMT handle ? Is this too much power for a 1/10 ?

[Jetskiboy77]

Therre is a lot of extra power. It an still handle awesomly. My NMT isnt that much worse than my tourer. With a careful throttle finger and the right set up, your NMT can handle very nicely with a .21 in it.

[slaf]

I'm still checking for a descent .15 or .18 engine. I checked my diffs and they seem to be fine. Still have to do some cleanup and check the truck all around.

[cadiken]

Wow,
I'm a newbie to this site and have read this whole thread. Lots of info here. I've had my nmt for over two years now and have recently started upgrading it again. I put a 2 speed and a O.S. .18 CVRX ABC in it and now this thing moves something wicked. I run it mostly onroad at a track or offroad soft dirt small jumps (you guys would say almost jumps) but at the new speed the rails are unforgiving (I've torn up some suspension arms). Can someone tell me where is a good place to get a front bumper for the nmt or better yet, what bumper will fit with the least bit of modding? I emailed mossdog and received no reply. Looks as though he doesn't come around anymore. Any help would be great.

[Snipin_Willy]

It's been a long time since I last ran my NMT. Mainly because I didn't want to spend the $50-$60 to get it back into running order. But I finally dished out the money to towerhobbies for my parts to get it running. New glow starter with a meter on the end cap, dogbones to replace the bent ones (I bought the NMT2 dogbones from a LHS only to realize that they don't fit after I got home), 20% Sidewinder Fuel, new engine mount for my OS .15 CV-Rx that's been resting on my broken engine mount (Don't get grit in the screw hole threads, you'll break the heads off the screws and leave yourself without an engine mount for your MT), a few screws so I have enough, some replacement shock rods for the BigBores (green doesn't go with purple too well but the shocks do work well). I think that's about it. I'll be looking into some turn buckles soon and also an aluminum steering rack and a better steering servo.
To anyone who wants to stiffen up the chassis: get the chassis brace from wolfpack radicals. It does wonders.

And I have a WolfPack Radicals 2 speed for sale. It's brand new. Its been sitting in a box for many months and I just havn't installed it. Will trade it for a good steering rack + cash, or +other goodies.

Oh yea, almost forgot: my webshots with my NMT http://community.webshots.com/album/52586987tNSgDy
The pics aren't recent but still show my truck in the early days.

[cadiken]

I'll be looking into some turn buckles soon and also an aluminum steering rack and a better steering servo.



Glad to see someone come around. Good for you getting back into the nmt. It is not the best thing for bashing but it still rules the dirt track. Here is a link to a alum steering rack http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44015&item=5948758244&rd=1. Put some bearings in instead of the bushings and you've got a good, steady steering rack.

[Jetskiboy77]

Check this out: Titanium Bumper (http://f4iracing.extremevelocity.net/)

[cadiken]

Thanks for the link Jetskiboy. Titanium huh, I was thinking plastic because all I had seen was aluminum so you figure one crash and it would bend but titanium should stand up better. 2oz weight not bad I might just give this a try.

[Jetskiboy77]

A lot of the people that use it said its a very good part. I might order it too soon, but im trying to finish my RS4 3 first.

[Snipin_Willy]

I'm still thinking about getting one of mossdog's bumpers. Seems like to me the better spring action you can get from a bumper the less chance there is for it to bend. The Ti bumper from F4i will most likely take a harder hit than the aluminum will without bending. Mossdog's plastic bumper can take a good hit and will flew. But if it flexes too much, the plastic is going to brake alltogether, where as if the aluminum or the Ti bumper bend, you would try and bend it back close to the original shape and still have a bumper. Someone should buy all three and do some controlled stress test! :rolleyes:
This board needs more people; where is everyone? I know a year ago there where a bunch of people on the unofficial HPI forum, it seems empty now.

[doesgo]

I like my Mossdog bumpers, but they don't prevent all damage. No bumper will!

[da_genious]

Hi Guys,

I am an absolute newbie to this hobby, in fact I am so new I haven't even run-in the engine. I am looking for the best possible guidelines on how to run in the engine. I have bought a Nitro MT2 from Tower Hobbies. Also I would appreciate any advice on how to make initial changes to the stock car for it to last longer. All is highly appreciated.

[cadiken]

I am an absolute newbie to this hobby, in fact I am so new I haven't even run-in the engine. I am looking for the best possible guidelines on how to run in the engine. I have bought a Nitro MT2 from Tower Hobbies. Also I would appreciate any advice on how to make initial changes to the stock car for it to last longer. All is highly appreciated.

da_genious
Congrats;
If I were you I would run the car the way it is. Get used to it, learn to drive it, find good places to run it, and learn how to fix it when you crash. It will be a lot cheaper to repair in its stock configuration than with hopups. The only thing I would truly recommend is a failsafe. Now go break-in that engine.

Cadiken

[da_genious]

yeah I have already bought the failsafe. I just needed advice on how to run the engine in proper. I've even bought a temperature gun to make sure i do evertything right, (being the perfectionist that I am....!!) and good sites where I can get info on how run-in (break-in) a new engine??

Cheers for your help anyway

[doesgo]

Do you mean how to break in the engine? Gotcha. Here's a widely-accepted "heat cycle" method that most professionals and racers use:

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200s. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning.

[doesgo]

Oh, and when you stop the engine and let it cool down anytime you run the car, even after break-in, bring the piston to BDC (bottom-dead-center) within a couple seconds of shut-down. This will allow the sleeve to shrink properly as it cools which will help maintain the pinch that we need to make power.

[cadiken]

Does ne1 know the part number or have a link for the Ofna fuel tank that fits the NMT?

[doesgo]

It's OFNA #30280, at Tower it's here. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000295726&I=LXBM24&P=K)

Here are a couple shots of it installed on my NMT, let me know if you want more pics....

http://www.doesgo.com/rc/nmttank1.jpg

http://www.doesgo.com/rc/nmttank6.jpg

[cadiken]

Looks like you had to chisel out a little bit of your upper deck is that right? I have the Powerline Radio Tray so I wonder if I'll have to take a dremel to it?

[doesgo]

I've now got the Powerline upper deck as well. Yeah, you need to cut off that arm that comes over behind the stock tank, but it's no big deal. Takes about 30 seconds.

I hate to show this picture because my truck is so nasty/dirty/disgusting, but here it is anyway, after I put the Powerline upper deck, double-thick stock chassis, and big-block engine in it. Can't really see the upper deck too well, but you can see it's been installed.

http://www.doesgo.com/rc/nmtbb2s.jpg

[da_genious]

Cheers for that DOESGO, I'll try that and se what happens. I know quite a bit about car engines, as in the cars we go to work on......!! but these little nitro engines are a bit fiddly.......basic concept however is the same. Do I need to put a fuel filter on b4 breaking-in the engine? also whats the best oil to put in the shocks? or shall I change the shocks altogether?

[doesgo]

A fuel filter is ALWAYS a good idea whenever you run your car. The nice thing about the OFNA tank is it has a fuel filter built-in, but an in-line one is good insurance, and quite necessary if you're running the stock filterless tank.

Stock NMT shocks aren't too bad. I'd run them until you destry them, then switch to Associated or Kyosho or something. I switched to GS 1/8 buggy shocks on my NMT, but that's because my NMT has gotten heavier with the double-thick chassis, aluminum upper deck, big tank, and big-block engine.

[cadiken]

doesqo;
Dude, that thing gets some usage. I bet that truck hails a$$ with that big block in it. Do you have a top view of that truck? I want to see about how much you had to cut off.

[doesgo]

My big-block NMT does move along quite nicely, I must say. And yes, it's been through the ringer!

I don't have a top view on hand, but I can get one and post it later tonight. I basically cut off that entire little arm that goes over from the main portion to the rear of the stock fuel tank.

Here's a composite picture of some air (and a double front-flip) I got semi-recently with my NMT...actually landed on its wheels, too!

http://www.yourarmsoff.com/images/BruceComposite2.jpg

[cadiken]

doesqo;
I purchased the Ofna tank from my LHS yesterday and installed it last night so don't worry about the pictures, but thanks anyway. By the way helluva jump. Jumps like that require keeping a rake near by to rake up the parts after you land. Outstanding! I'm still waiting for my steel brakes to come and I have to replace my steel turnbuckles with the titanium ones that came in Monday and I'll be able to post a pic.

[doesgo]

Awesome! Did the installation go well? Sorry I didn't come through with the pics, I really thought I had one on my home PC but couldn't find one and didn't have time to take any. Glad you got it done anyway.

I came away from that jump posted above just fine after landing on the wheels, but the second attempt didn't fare as well. Similar double front flip, but landed on the back end on pavement and bent my double chassis and broke my fuel tank. :( Wish I had video of it!

[cadiken]

Install went fine. I cut the little arm going from the main chasis to where the fuel tank screws in and filed it round and beveled it (so it looks like it was brought that way) then drilled a couple of 1/8" holes in the bottom of the chasis, one in the area where I cut the little arm and the eye from the fuel tank rests and the other one where the fuel tank's original hole is on the remaining upper deck and I placed two support poles. One I got from the little arm that I cut and the other one was from the old steering assembly (I replaced it with the aluminum one). Screwed them in from the bottom and that gave me a great mounting place for the tank. Eventually I'll replace the black post with an aluminum purple anodized one just to keep it uniform throughout. Nice and clean install though. I'll see if I can take a picture tonight and post.

[cadiken]

Yep, I would love to see a video of that crash.

[jc2stroke2]

well im gonna keep my truck after all i bought 5 spurs and im gonna figure out the problem with the striped spur i built chassis stiffiners out of 1"x1/4" alluminum 2 of those one in front and one in backshould keep it straight new clutch and ball berings any body have this problem or just me oh im running a m16 megatech engine that shouldnt be a problem should it,jared

[doesgo]

What chassis and upper deck are you running, jc2stroke2? Do you have a slipper clutch?

I kept having slipper problems until I got a steel spur. Now, no more problems.

[jc2stroke2]

nope i dont have a slipper i been gonna get one but i cant decide if i want to keep the truck and the upper deck is stock but the front of it is allumin like the part that holds the front end[axel] in place do they make a steel spur with out slipper if not il take theplastic one to my buddys machine shop and let him make one mabey out of titanium think i could sell them?

[doesgo]

It'd be tough to make a steel/titanium version of the non-slipper spur, it's pretty oddly shaped. And running a steel spur without a slipper....what's going to absorb the shock loads when you land with the throttle open? You'll probably break dogbones constantly. That's the beauty of the slipper, it'll absorb most of that, saving your drivetrain.

As for selling non-slipper steel or titanium spurs, I doubt there'd be much of a market. That's usually one of the first things people do to upgrade their NMTs....add a slipper clutch.

[jc2stroke2]

yea i guess i didnt think about that?

[Jetskiboy77]

I put in the slipper from the NMT 2 into my second NMT. It fits perfect and looks good but I havent ran it yet. But it definitly fits and its made for the Savage so you might want to look into it. I alos think its cheaper then the NMT slipper.

[doesgo]

Yeah, the MT2 slipper is only $13 while the MT1 slipper is $29. And since the MT2 slipper uses the Savage spur, you have more tooth-count options and you could run an aftermarket steel gear, too.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFYP4&P=7

[PCC]

I'm glad to hear that HPI came out with an improved slipper clutch. The old one was designed for the electric touring cars so it really could not hold up to the power of a modern nitro engine.

[cadiken]

Sorry it took me a while to post this. Here are the pics of my NMT with the 125cc Ofna tank. This is an easy mod for anyone that needs more fuel. Thanks to doesqo for showing me his install and inspiring me to do mine.

View from side
http://www.geocities.com/cadiken/tank_view.jpg

Closeup from the front
http://www.geocities.com/cadiken/front_closeup.jpg

Closeup from the back
http://www.geocities.com/cadiken/rear_closeup.jpg

Bird's eye view
http://www.geocities.com/cadiken/closeup_top.jpg

[Jetskiboy77]

That came out really good, it looks nice and clean, like it was direct drop in.

[cadiken]

Thanks Jetskiboy;
I should have done that a long time ago. I can't wait to run it and see how much extra time I get. I'm still waiting for a couple of parts so I can put it back together (slim tuned pipe cuz my old one scrubs against the tank and steel brakes and pads. I ordered the steel brakes from New Era and they sent me purple alum turnbuckles and ball ends by mistake. Would be nice but I threw away the fiber brake cuz the steel was comming in so I have to wait.

[doesgo]

No problem, cadiken! Glad it worked out so well. 66% more runtime is really nice!

[jc2stroke2]

well i finished up my nmt last nite ihad a 21 off a savage with a cracked block i couldnt find parts to fix so i welded the crack andmade a custom mount that bolts to the chassis in 6 places insted of using two chasis put together i bolted 2 strips of 1/4x1" alluminum nder the motor and in front of the spur i got it runnin in the basment and my wife went nuts id like to post pics but cant seem to get them here i have easy share camera if any one has ideas or opinions id love to here them,jared

[doesgo]

If you want to e-mail the pics I can host 'em and post 'em. doesgo@slapmafro.com

[jc2stroke2]

ok ill try that ill take them after while thank you for the help oh hows you nmt run with the big block if mine works out ill get a better one for it im usein the hpi21 i got new and rolled the truck with out the body on and crcked the block it ran good till then and it runs good now no leaks [yet] ,jared

[doesgo]

Good luck with the welded block! Hope it works out.

I really like it with the big-block power. I was driving it quite a bit on my homemade track last fall and really enjoyed it. I was never satisfied with the power level of my NMT until I put the big-block in it. I had tried the stock FE, a Fantom .15 (fast, but not torquey), an O.S. .15CV-R (pretty good, not great), and an Epic .18 (fast, but not torquey), but this is the way to go. I suppose an O.S. .18CV-R would probably be a good balance between power and weight, but I had the big-block lying so I thought I'd try it.

The right side of the truck is rather heavy with the 125cc tank and the big-block, but it doesn't seem to be a big problem. I did switch to 1/8-scale buggy shocks though. The RC10GT shocks I had on there really had to be spaced up for ride height and they were simply overworked. It's much better and smoother with the big shocks.

http://www.doesgo.com/rc/nmtbb6s.jpg

http://www.doesgo.com/rc/nmtbb7s.jpg

[jc2stroke2]

The pics are on there way.Looks like yours is a little nicer than mine.Ineed turbuckels for mine it has those plastic links and i dont like them.The head on mine isbrome .Igot a new one for it but its 10deg here so it works good as a winter one,i sawed of the broke part and it lokks like crap but works thanks for the help with the pics jared

[doesgo]

Here are jc2stroke2's pictures:

http://www.doesgo.com/rc/jc1.jpg

http://www.doesgo.com/rc/jc2.jpg

http://www.doesgo.com/rc/jc3.jpg

http://www.doesgo.com/rc/jc4.jpg

[jc2stroke2]

well what do ya think ,will itwork i know it aint real pretty but i took it outtoday anditwill fly cant wait to tune it up and get some good fuel the stuff ihad was a year old oh will the nmt2 slipper work on this i found it a towwer for like 15bucks thanks ,jared

[fuzzy2133]

looks like a good weld as long as there is good penitration into the aluminum. I am all for being cheap sometimes and if it works I commend you.

[cadiken]

doesqo;
Does the heat from your pipe melt your fuel tank any?

jcstroke2;
Better turnbuckles is a good idea with that big block in there. They'll help keep you going in a straight line at high speeds and keep your wheels square with the ground or not (thay are adjustable).

[Jetskiboy77]

I really like it with the big-block power. I was driving it quite a bit on my homemade track last fall and really enjoyed it. I was never satisfied with the power level of my NMT until I put the big-block in it. I had tried the stock FE, a Fantom .15 (fast, but not torquey), an O.S. .15CV-R (pretty good, not great), and an Epic .18 (fast, but not torquey), but this is the way to go. I suppose an O.S. .18CV-R would probably be a good balance between power and weight, but I had the big-block lying so I thought I'd try it.

The right side of the truck is rather heavy with the 125cc tank and the big-block, but it doesn't seem to be a big problem. I did switch to 1/8-scale buggy shocks though. The RC10GT shocks I had on there really had to be spaced up for ride height and they were simply overworked. It's much better and smoother with the big shocks.

I think putting in the big block was the best thing I did for my NMT. The only reason I dont want to put in the 125cc tank is because I dont want to put anymore weight on the right side, and I get decent run times too.

[jc2stroke2]

Yea i need them turn buckels,(as for being cheap im the king).But the engine was junk with out welding so i was out nothing if it didnt work.I wanted to try a big block on the trruck ,but figuredi would try this one then if it worked i want to get a better one.No sense droppin 250 in it if i would find out that it doesent work.I ran it some more tonighti took off the braces and it worked fine.I think the moptor mount holds it fairly tight,it covers about half of the back of the chassis i tuned it up alittle better and it isout of control. anyone know about the nmt2slipper ,thanks ,jared

[doesgo]

cadiken: No, I've never had any issues with heat from the pipe being close to the tank.

jc2stroke2: I've been told that with minor mods that make themselves obvious, the MT2 slipper will work in the NMT just fine. I have one myself, but haven't taken the time to install it yet.

[Jetskiboy77]

Mine NMT 2 slipper dropped right into my NMT.

[jc2stroke2]

doesgo, do you have a savage i been lookin for the forum about the truckzilla do they have one or no nice to here about the slipper just ordered it ,As for the nmt will the difs handle the bb power i read the 21 is over 2hp and over 30k rpms ,jared

[doesgo]

Good to know, Jetskiboy77! I gotta get mine back up and running.

Actually I've got a couple Savages, jc2stroke2, but neither is a Truckzilla. I've heard some not-so-good things about them, or at least the big engines they use. I think the extended TVPs and big wheels/tires they use are fine, though.

[doesgo]

Oh, as for the NMT driveline, it depends no how you use your truck, how it's geared, and what tires you use. I've broken a couple rear dogbones, an axle stub, and a diff outdrive, but it's been good other than that. I'm switching to MT2 axles, outdrives, and dogbones soon so hopefully they'll be a little more durable.

As for the diffs, make sure they're shimmed right! If so, they'll probably last pretty well.

[jc2stroke2]

all right ill check the diffs im useing stock tires as far as the savge goes the motor is knew so no problems yet hopefully never,jared

[Jetskiboy77]

Oh, as for the NMT driveline, it depends no how you use your truck, how it's geared, and what tires you use. I've broken a couple rear dogbones, an axle stub, and a diff outdrive, but it's been good other than that. I'm switching to MT2 axles, outdrives, and dogbones soon so hopefully they'll be a little more durable.

As for the diffs, make sure they're shimmed right! If so, they'll probably last pretty well.

Thats very true. I have a Hyper .21 8 Port with regular diff gears and a two speed and street tires, and have only put a slight bend in one dog bone and stripped like 2 spurs. The NMT driveline can be very tough or weak depending on what tires and gears your run.

[jc2stroke2]

yea i got the regular dif gears,and stock tires and stock spur.ive geared up a couple teeth on the clutch.what gears do you recomend for reliablity.also f that gt i blew my buddys rustler away this afternoon,the spur gears holdin up to no problems yet,jared

[doesgo]

What diff gears? Get the machined on-road (RS4) gears, they're reported to be much better than the stock NMT diff gears.

[jc2stroke2]

ok ill break my stock one first then get them

[Jetskiboy77]

I have them in my rs4 3 and then when I built brand new diffs for my .21 NMT, I used them. Theyre pretty cheap and good to have. I used the same gears as the rs4 3, the hd 13 tooth gear, the hardened diff cups and center universal dogbones, and my driveline has been great.

[Jetskiboy77]

Ok heres my idea for my second NMT. Below is a pic of my .21 NMT and the one next to it I built out of all the stock parts that I saved when I completly modified every part on the .21 NMT. So bascaially the NMT on the left cost me almost nothing. That pic is kinda old, since then I put in a NMT2 Slipper Clutch, Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckles, and RPM Ends and the Fiber Brake disk I had lying around from when I put a metal disk and fiber pads in my .21 NMT. I also put in aluminum steering with the adjustable link using another turnbuckle and left over RPM ends, and also put ball bearings in the steering and the clutch bell. The shocks have been replaced with the Duratrax Evader Shocks since I used them on my .21 NMT, and they were cheap and worked absoulty perfectly. The only problem is, the engine in there is the .12R SS, or the stock HPI RS4 3 Type SS engine, that I put like 6 gallons through and is now fried. Heres where I need to decide what to do. This truck will be a strictly bashing truck, since down the block from my house is a wild life preserve where a lot of kids went and made nice sized Quad and Dirtbike jumps. Im thinking of putting in a OS .18 CVR, since I need a good cheap engine, this seems like the best of the best, not to mention its awesome power and reliability. I have a THS pipe to use and I was thinking of going non pullstart and SG crank shaft. Any thoughts or input? Should I just leave the truck on the shelf? This truck certaintly wont look like the .21 one, because im only putting on parts that wont easily break or that I saw increased the cars characteristics (most of those parts are on now though). Any input is welcomed and apprepicated. Ill try to get updated pics later.

[jc2stroke2]

i got a m16 id trade, with pipe,crb,clutch,and mount id part with if you wanted it ran fine good compresin no idea how much fuel though but it starts easy and ran fine,jared

[doesgo]

Jetski, I'd grab an O.S. .18CV-R non-pull threaded crank engine off Tower for $90 and throw together a fun basher!

[Jetskiboy77]

jc2stroke2- Thanks for the offer, but I need to order some stuff off Tower anyway, plus out of no where ive suddenly got a thing for the OS .18CVR, it just seems like too good a thing to pass up.

Dosego, thats what im thinking and sorry I forgot the pic, but my friend pulled up outside and told me to come out to see him so I completly forgot the pic.

Here it is:
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/938781/Img0200.jpg

[Jetskiboy77]

The truck is now a complete rolling chassis with electronics installed, all it needs is an engine and its ready to go. Im thinking 125cc tank though, and thoughts? Isnt there one for the NMT2 thats a direct drop in now? Heres one more pic:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/938781/Img0195.jpg

[doesgo]

Definitely worth resurrecting that truck!

There's the 100cc tank that comes with the 18SS MT2, but there's no drop-in 125cc tank. The OFNA buggy tank is the easiest way to go to 125cc.

[MT2 owns you]

no way you should sit it on the shelf! make it a basher. and jumps arent everthing. theres snow, sand, ...rocks...in case you had forgotten..

[cadiken]

Jetskiboy77: The O.S. .18CV-R is a good engine. I'm angry at the price though (I paid $170.00 for mine in October). The O.S. .18 TZ is stronger and was clocked doing 2.1bhp @31000rpm or 32000rpm. I just read that last night while I was looking at a .21 for my NMT. Can't go wrong with the 125cc Ofna.

[Jetskiboy77]

no way you should sit it on the shelf! make it a basher. and jumps arent everthing. theres snow, sand, ...rocks...in case you had forgotten..


The funny thing is that the snow outside my house is what inspired me to bring this truck back to go have fun with. The only problem with that is that I wouldnt want to break in a nice engine like this outside in the cold temps.

cadiken- Im sorry you paid that much for it, if it was that price now I wouldnt be considering it for this project. .21 NMTs are very fun and worth the money and effort to put one in. I love that I put a 8 Port Hyper in my other NMT.

Doesgo- (sry I mispelled your name in my last post) I am definitly going to try and bring this truck back, but it me not be by next week, it might take a while. I meant it was 100cc, I forgot that it wasnt 125cc, but I knew there was a direct drop in that was bigger than 75cc. Ill definitly throw that in when I can get a hold of it.

I was thinking of aluminum upperdeck and upgraded chassis, but im scared that they will bend. Any thoughts on if you think there strong enough? I have them both on my .21 NMT, and they have been perfect at withstanding .21 power, but its been an onroad truck for some time now so there hasnt been any jumps. Also, is there a non pullstart, threaded shaft, either carb, .18 CVR on Tower? Im sorry for the long posts, but im starting to get excited.

[cadiken]

Yeah, I know what you mean by paying too much. I purchased it from my lhs and that was the price. What all did you have to do to put in a .21 engine? Does it work with the NMT 2 speed clutchbell and spurs?

[doesgo]

What other options do you have besides the aftermarket aluminum chassis and upper deck, Jetski? From what I've seen, the Powerline stuff is the strongest out there.

Here's the non-pull, threaded-crank, rotary-carb .18CV-R from Tower: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGP5&P=7

[Jetskiboy77]

Thanks for the link Doesgo, and I dont have the aftermarket chassis and upperdeck, im thinking of getting them unless you people think it will bend. I dont want to spend too much money on this truck, I have already spent a lot on my .21 NMT and my rs4 3.
I will go with Powerline if I do, especially since the makers of Powerline are the people in one of my LHS's.


Cadiken- All I did was I bought the mounts for New Era, they werent very cheap, but the engine dropped right in with no modding, untill I changed the gears to the smallest ones avaible, then I had to dremel some of the A-arm away and some of the alumium center gear holder. The engine lines up perfect and you cans use the 2 speed, I know you can because I use the 2 speed. Ill post pics when I find them.

[Jetskiboy77]

My camrea isnt working very well right now, so I have to show you old pics. Any more questions instant message me, my AOL Screen Name is Jetskiboy77 or SecaM3 (I use this one more now), or just ask me here. Ill give you links to the parts I used if you want me to.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/938781/Img0254.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/938781/Img0256.jpg

[cadiken]

OK, now I'm curious. If I can get the New Era conversion kit and put a .21 to .28 engine in and still use the 2 speed clutchbell and clutch nut then I can do this and not skip a beat. So, if I got these;
http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?part_id=37
http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?part_id=1713
http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi?part_id=2032

Is this all I would need? I know this engine may be overkill but that price is too good to pass up. At least I think so. Is this a descent engine?

[Jetskiboy77]

Well are you getting that engine in SG shaft or threaded. The mounts you linked to are for a threaded shaft so make sure you get the threaded shaft configuration of that engine. Obviously You'll also need a manifold and pipe. That is my next engine choice once my Ofna Hyper 8 Port kicks the can. My 8 Port is SG shaft and my 2 speed works perfect and everything lines up perfect, so get a SG shaft if you want. If you have any more questions I will be on pretty late tonight so just ask.

[doesgo]

I'd get an SG shaft and the related mounts if possible, most big-block engines have the SG crank.

[cadiken]

Good looking out. I need a threaded crank shaft at least that is what I have. I'll have to call them when I'm ready to place my order and make sure I get the right one. I already have a new rear mount tuned pipe (1 piece savage 25 RD Logics) that should fit. I wonder how fast my NMT will be with this setup?

[cadiken]

Would I have to change my clutch setup if I get a SG shaft? What all would I need to change?

[doesgo]

No, your clutch setup should be interchangeable, you'll only need a different clutch nut. Wait, you're comparing a threaded crank big-block clutch setup to an SG crank big-block setup, right? Not small-block to big-block?

If you're comparing a big-block SG to a small-block threaded, that's apples to oranges.

[cadiken]

Small block big block
So if I have a small block threaded right now what will I need?

[Jetskiboy77]

If your going for a SG shaft engine like Doesgo suggested (which I also suggest) you'll need this SG Shaft Conversion Kit. (http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi session_id=mdydkppqoputvjnepymejduacgedlhuv&part_id=710) Then you will need a two shoe clutch to fit on that fly wheel. I used HPI's racing clutch since I already had it on my old small block, and it hooks up beautifully. The clutch and the pipe are the only things you will need that dont come with the conversion kit from New Era. If the Savage engine is on the same side as the NMT, which I think it is, then you can use that pipe.

If your going for the threaded shaft, which I dont suggest because like Doesgo suggested, most of the big blocks will be SG shaft, and if you ever need to replace that engine your looking at, you wont need anything else to fit a new engine in, then you will need this Threaded Shaft Conversion Kit. (http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?session_id=mdydkppqoputvjnepymejduacgedlh uv&part_id=37) Again, you will need a two shoe clutch, like the HPI racing clutch, and a pipe like the one you have.

Keep asking questions if you still have them so we can get this all straight before you order, because if you wait for the stuff to come, realize its wrong, and have to return it and wait for the right parts to come, that would just suck.

[Jetskiboy77]

Another suggestion I have if you havent already done it is to but bearings in the clutchbell now that your going big block. It seems like your going to use the 2 Speed, so you will need three of 5x8 bearings for the 2 speed (2 for the single speed clutch bell) and 2 flanged 5x8 bearings. For the 5x8 I used these Duratrax 5x8 bearings. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD109&P=7) If you use those you will need to order 2 sets, because it only comes with 2 bearings and then you will have one left over. For the flanged bearings I used these Duratrax flanged 5x8 bearings. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD111&P=7)

Not to change the subject, but for my project truck, I was thinking of using the graphite shock towers for the NMT2 and the same roll bar thats on my .21 NMT.

Roll bar (http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?session_id=mdydkppqoputvjnepymejduacgedlh uv&part_id=50)

Front Tower (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGWX5&P=Z)

Rear Tower (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGWX6&P=Z)

Also down the line I would get the all the HD cups for the NMT 2, which I put on my .21 NMT and my rs4 3 so I know they fit, and an aluminum gear carrier to make a very solid drivetrain with the NMT 2 slipper clutch in the middle of it.

Any thoughts on the shock towers? Im starting to get really excited about this project.

[cadiken]

Jetskiboy: Thanks for the info. On my NMT I already have all those things; bearings in clutch bell I put when I changed the steering and added the 2 speed. I run the racing clutch and the pipe is on the same side. So it looks like I only need the engine and conversion kit. Kooool!

I feel your excitement. I haven't been able to sleep well since I started upgrading my NMT for the third time.

[slaf]

Did HPI release any NMT Racer with plastic turnbuckles ?

I bought a NMT from a guy, he told me that it was a racer. The truck have slipper clutch, Racer wheels and rims, CVD's all around. Should I check anything else ?

[cadiken]

I believe the original NMT came with plastic rod things with ball ends (I don't want to call them turnbuckles). Racer has part numbers A071 and 93317 34mm and 61mm and I think they are steel turnbuckles at least they look like steel.