Nitro MT and MT Racer Forum V2.0

[slaf]

On mine they are the same plastic rods as the NMT. How can I be 100% sure that my truck is a Racer not a ordinary NMT ?

[Interstate]

There's no real difference, HPI simply put some of their aftermarket parts on, removed the engine components, and upped the price. There should be a carbon fiber upper deck, slipper, and I believe there was factory "turnbuckles" put on the racer.

[slaf]

I have plastic upper deck so I think that my truck is a normal NMT with addes Racer parts....

[Interstate]

Yeah, many people like to add some parts similar to those of the racer's and sell it as a racer then sell it for more.

[doesgo]

In theory a regular NMT upgraded to Racer specs should be worth the same, but for some reason people want it to really be an original Racer and will pay more for that.

[thedarkness]

there was no carbon fiber upper deck with the mt racer(I rember buying the carbon upper deck sepratly.The main differnces were the fuel tank the slipper the spring/oil(racer came with 50wt oil), it had mip cvds stock black wheels proline bowties in m3 compound and a slightly thicker chassis.I though the racers went pretty cheap I got one about a year ago for $180 shipped

[fuzzy2133]

thedarkness is correct and the turnbuckles were cheap steel ones sadly. I waited for them to go on sales before I got mine too.

[PCC]

The Racer has turnbuckles, slipper clutch, shiny CVDs, different tires and wheels. The stickers for the body are different, stating that it is an NMT Racer. The chassis is a little thicker than the original chassis, IIRC.

[slaf]

I have all this stuff except turnbuckles

[thedarkness]

i found with the turnbuckles I was busting allot of the balls they connect to, do yourself a favor and toss the cheap stock ball ends if you have them.I used xxx-nt lundsford balls never seemed to have a problem with them.Your also gonna want to get some extra spurs/slipper pads.Also the stock front arms do like to break you can help this by boiling the arms, or you can use the graphite arms from the electric mt,They are much much stronger than the stock arms and are around the same price.

[doesgo]

Will the MT2 bumpers fit on the NMT?

I just got done dropping the MT2 slipper into my NMT....worked like a charm! The only thing you need besides the MT2 slipper kit is those set screw shaft things rather than just the set screws as the NMT slipper used.

Now I'm debating pulling my diffs apart and upgrading to MT2 outdrives, axles and dogbones. I've got the parts, just not sure about the time...

[Jetskiboy77]

Doesgo- thats what I planned on doing to my project NMT drivetrain. Im going all HD NMT2 parts throughout. I was also thinking of having my dads friend making a one piece upperdeckand front and rear shock towers out of carbon fiber. I just need to find the sheets somewhere. And yes the NMT2 bumper will fit the original NMT. Go to the forum on HPI's website and go to 1/10 scale trucks and go to chassis and handling and then its towards the top of the page is a "NMT to NMT2 Conversion" and it shows you how to to the bumper and gives you the part numbers that you will need. Theres also a conversion to do the rs4 3 upperdeck if anyone is interested.

[Jetskiboy77]

Does anyone know where to get sheets of carbon fiber that are the same thickness as the shock towers?

[doesgo]

Thanks for the info, Jetski! I'll have to consider some MT2 bumpers.

By the way, I did the MT2 slipper clutch and put MT2 diff outdrives, dogbones, and axle stubs in my NMT and they all fit great and worked great when doing some bashing this weekend. I haven't upgraded the front end yet, but I soon will. I also replaced the GS21 with an O.S. 21RG and wow, that thing is awesome in the NMT! Definitely more torquey than the GS, although the max rpm is probably down a little. Sure makes for a fun truck!

[Jetskiboy77]

I knew they fit, even though Tower says they wont.

[cadiken]

Is it anywhere near as fast as your NMT with the hyper 21? Your hyper NMT is the one in the slapmafro video right? Man, that thing is fast!

[doesgo]

My NMT is in the SMF videos, but depending on which video you're watching it could be powered by the stock .15FE, a Fantom FR15, an O.S. .15CV-R, a GS .21B01, or an O.S. .21RG. No Hypers for me, I think that's Jetski.

Even so, yes, I'm very happy with the power of the RG in my NMT, especially since that RG is my oldest engine, it's been in four different vehicles, and has around five gallons through it!

[Jetskiboy77]

Cadiken- Im the one with the Hyper 8 Port.

[cadiken]

OK, thanks for clearing that up for me. The video was backwoods bash.
So which engine would you guys recommend the Hyper .21, O.S. .21 RG, Picco 21 small block T-Maxx, or the Associated .21 BX-RP?

[doesgo]

The NMT didn't make it into Backwoods Bash. We had a Revo (climbing rocks and roots, and jumping the trucks), Savage (fast-motion down the trail), RC10GT (yellow/black body on the trail and jumping the trucks), and a GS SUT (fast trail runs with the red body and triple backflip with the orange body).

I've not had too much luck with OFNA engines (neither the Hypers nor the Forces). As you know I love my RG, and the Associated .21 (from the MGT, I assume?) is like the RG in that it's decently powerful and very reliable but doesn't rev to the sky like the Hyper 8-port can. I wouldn't bother with the .21 small-block, you'll get nearly the same power for less money with an O.S. .18CV-R or lots more power (but it's more costly) with the .18TZ.

But that's just me...

[Jetskiboy77]

Id reccomend the OS .21 too, the hyper has a lot of low end power in a light NMT, and it revs very high, but can be hard to tune perfect once in a while. The OS may not have the same revs, but any .21 will be very powerful in a NMT, and the OS name in reliabilty are unbeaten IMO.

[cadiken]

Ahh, that RC10GT looked like an NMT. Had me fooled on that one. So that was the RC10GT you tore up at the end huh? Nice jumps in that video, good work.
The .21 small block (medium block) has these specs:

Claimed HP: 2.38
RPM: 32,000
Carb: Slide
Crank: SG for T-Maxx
Construction: ABC
Engine Size: .21
Type: Rear Exhaust
Too bad it only fits the TMax (I just found out the mount points are not standard) but this looks like a very powerful engine.

I found an O.S. RG for $109 so I might just get that. I want something that will give me good top end speed and not wind out so quick and lift the front off the ground when I hit the throttle hard.

I have the 18 CV-R right now and it runs fast but I can't get full throttle. When I open it up all the way it will either take off and stutter/die out after about 25 feet or take off fast then stutter/die out when the second gear kicks in. Oh yeah, the 18 CV-R won't lift the front of my NMT off the ground no matter how hard I try. When I give it half throttle it takes off and shifts great but if I'm giving it only half why can't I get the other half. If I can get the other half I wouldn't want another engine right now. I put a heat gun on it and I'm running between 190 to 233 degrees. I'm thinking about changing the manifold and pipe to see if that stops it from bogging down. Any suggestions?

[doesgo]

That's bizarre! Fuel delivery problem? Restricted line or filter or inlet into the carb? Seems like if that were the case it'd be running hotter though.

[cadiken]

Yeah, that's why I put the gun on it. All I can think of is air restriction. I have the old 15FE side exhaust on it. I didn't want to buy one because I had just brought one for a RB V12 series I had (another story). I still have the rear exhaust, no more RB engine though.I'm thinking it must be choking because it can't breathe. Is that possible?

I didn't see your post Jetskiboy until I refreshed my screen. I do appreciate you guys help. If I can't get full throttle out of the 18 CV-R I'd rather fight with the O.S. 21 if I must.

[doesgo]

You have that FE cast aluminum thing on there? Oh man, yeah I'd say that's choking it! That thing sucked on the weak FE, it's going to be TERRIBLE on an 18CV-R!

Want to try a New Jersey Big Tube Header on it? I've got one I ran for a little while but it's still in great shape. $15+shipping.

[Jetskiboy77]

Id take Dosego's advice and trash the FE cast aluminum manifold. Not only is it restrictive, but cast aluminum wont help draw heat away from the engine like a nice manifold would do. Id either take Dosego up on his deal for the NJ Big Tube hearder, since I have only heard good things about it for like 3 years now, or go get one new on your own somewhere.

To clear something up- The NMT will NOT wheelie by just throttle inputs. Maybe if you hit a small bump and the front raises up, and you can keep it up with the throttle. Ive never heard or seen of a NMT with any engine wheelie. The way the weight is distributed on the chassis, it makes it impossible to lift the front wheels. Ive personally never gotten it to wheelie, even with high grip on road tires, accleration gearing, and my Hyper .21. Granted, the Hyper may not have as much torque as other .21's, I still dont think its possible to get it to lift the front wheels off the ground very high. It peels out a lot instead of lifting the wheels. Ive maybe had a tiny bit (I mean tiny) of front wheel lifting, but its very hard to notice, certaintly not enough lift to loose steering or to call it a wheelie. This is just my thoughts and personal experiences, and talking with those who also own a NMT, I may be wrong and someone can get it to wheelie on command, but I dont think im wrong. Sorry for the unnecessary longness of this post. :)

[doesgo]

No unassisted wheelies here, either....

[doesgo]

Oh, and if you like, you can see my NMT in action during portions of our new video at www.slapmafro.com titled "Cold 2". It's the one with the blue/white/silver/black body and Masher 2000 tires.

[cadiken]

Thanks Doesqo for the offer but I couldn't wait for anything to ship. I'm like a kid on Christmas when there is something I need. I can wait on some stuff but when one of my toys is not working I can't sleep till I get it fixed. But thanks for the gesture.

NOW!
Wewhoo, problem solved!
Looks like I won't be getting a .21 engine for my NMT after all. I went to my lhs and brought a RG Logics side mount one piece pipe and that took care of the cut out problem. I was then able to tune the engine just right (I was rich on the lsn as well) and now I have so much power that when I gun it it spins in a circle. I get full throttle now and let me tell you, on a NMT an O.S. 18 CV-RX is sweet. I can just imagine a .21 on this thing. How do you guys control it with that big block?

[doesgo]

Awesome!

[jc2stroke2]

i was wondering?The crank bearings are sealed in a nitro engine arent they?,and if they are not can it suck air through there? Got a small leak and when i spray carb cleaner around the crank the engine dies so i assume the berings are toast from heat of welding block.A little advice on this would be appericieated,thanks,jared

[jc2stroke2]

Oh,by the way i have tmaxx shocks with black(stiffest) springs,and if you take off through the grass,slow down then pin the throtle my nmt flips over backwards.Cost me a motor saver filter ,cant find that damn thingfor nothin,never shoulda been runin with no bodt hehe

[fuzzy2133]

I am thinking if there is a air leak at the bearing it is probably from the case being warped from the accident or from welding. you could also be right that the heat damaged it somehow. the seal is usually is good enought to keep the air entering at a very very small amount at the most (would not cause the engine never to be too rich). over time oil does come out the bearing from in the crankcase.

that is my $0.02. please take with a grain of salt.

[doesgo]

I'm with fuzzy on this.

[jc2stroke2]

Carb seal problem,got it all fixed the o ring was gone from it and when i sprayed the front of engine some must have been going through there.Thank you though,my bearings are good i think there is no leakin from there,jc

[jc2stroke2]

but for the record the bearing is sealed right?

[cadiken]

Today is a good day heh JC?

[Jetskiboy77]

I think the bearing has to be sealed or air tight, otherwise youd have major over heating problems and tuning would be almost impossible. But then why do I remember HPI making oil catches for engines? The catch would collect the oil that leaked through the front bearing, which means it isnt air tight. I though I had the answer, and I just confused myself. I know the bearing does get lubricated from the oil in the engine case that came from the fuel. Ive never had oil leak onto my chassis so maybe it is sealed? We need an answer on this from someone that knows. Someone please help.

[Jetskiboy77]

Thanks Doesqo for the offer but I couldn't wait for anything to ship. I'm like a kid on Christmas when there is something I need. I can wait on some stuff but when one of my toys is not working I can't sleep till I get it fixed. But thanks for the gesture.

NOW!
Wewhoo, problem solved!
Looks like I won't be getting a .21 engine for my NMT after all. I went to my lhs and brought a RG Logics side mount one piece pipe and that took care of the cut out problem. I was then able to tune the engine just right (I was rich on the lsn as well) and now I have so much power that when I gun it it spins in a circle. I get full throttle now and let me tell you, on a NMT an O.S. 18 CV-RX is sweet. I can just imagine a .21 on this thing. How do you guys control it with that big block?


I think RG is the OS .21 engine. I think you meant to say you bought a RD Logics pipe? Ive never heard of RG Logics.

Controlling it with the big block takes a really good and light trigger finger. For fun sometimes, and also to show people just how powerful a .21 NMT really is, Id say "pull back on the throttle as light as you can" and they push back and the truck takes off, really hard, while peeling out. They get scared and quickly let go because of what they just experienced.

BTW I think hearing a big block shift into second gear is the nicest sound ever. I think my truck is scariest when it shifts into second. It takes off like crazy once it shifts, and I love it, and the sound is amazing IMO.

[cadiken]

Correct, please excuse the typo. The pipe is indeed a RD Logics.

[Jetskiboy77]

lol Your excused.

Any updates on the question about the engine bearing leaking?

[scaredsilly]

Does anyone still sell steel spur gears?

[doesgo]

I've got one for a regular NMT (not the MT2). It's a 49-tooth and requires the slipper clutch setup. $25 plus shipping.

[jc2stroke2]

can i get a two speed for the nmt or just the nmt 2

[doesgo]

You can get one for the NMT, but I believe it eliminates your slipper clutch.

[scaredsilly]

Yeah, it looks like it does....

Check it out (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTB56&P=)

[doesgo]

Wow, I was considering it, but I've already got 14/49 gearing, and 2nd gear of the 2-speed only has 15/49! Sure wouldn't gain me much speed. Dang.

[Jetskiboy77]

Doesgo-I have a 2 speed with my big block, and run 13/44 as first gear and 18/39 as second gear.

[cadiken]

Jetskiboy, where did you get that gear setup?
Did it change the location of your engine much?

I ran against my friend's Serpant 950 today in an all out straight away. He has a RB C-5 series .21 in that thing and it is hellafast. I pushed him so hard that most of the time he went airborn and flipped (it was kinda windy). That was with my .18 and standard 2 speed. If I change my gear ratio to what you have I'd probably make him tear his car up. Ofcourse he was giving me around 10 to 15 foot head starts (running head starts) but I held my own.

[Jetskiboy77]

Jetskiboy, where did you get that gear setup?
Did it change the location of your engine much?

I ran against my friend's Serpant 950 today in an all out straight away. He has a RB C-5 series .21 in that thing and it is hellafast. I pushed him so hard that most of the time he went airborn and flipped (it was kinda windy). That was with my .18 and standard 2 speed. If I change my gear ratio to what you have I'd probably make him tear his car up. Ofcourse he was giving me around 10 to 15 foot head starts (running head starts) but I held my own.

I cant imangine how fast that 950 must be. My LHS had those gears in stock. To get it in though, I had to break out the dremel. I dremeled some of the aluminum transmission case away and some of the aluminum diff gear holder and a little of the pullstart of my Hyper. After I was done with all the dremeling, you would never know it was dremeled and the engine meshes perfect with the gears. Ill try to see if I can find the gearing on Tower later. I think the gears are for touring cars, and on a side note I might change the gearing to 13/49 and 18/44 just for the improved accleration.

[littlebuddha]

hey guys, just a question, i recently bought a t-15 for my nitro mt, but am unsure whether i need an engine mount to go with it. how is your t-15 bolted on to the chassis? i think the engine itself like the fe has mount holes but am not sure. please help. thanks.

[scaredsilly]

I've got one for a regular NMT (not the MT2). It's a 49-tooth and requires the slipper clutch setup. $25 plus shipping.

Would I need to change my clutch bell for this thing, or would the stock 12 do ok? how much slower would my acceleration be?

[Jetskiboy77]

hey guys, just a question, i recently bought a t-15 for my nitro mt, but am unsure whether i need an engine mount to go with it. how is your t-15 bolted on to the chassis? i think the engine itself like the fe has mount holes but am not sure. please help. thanks.

The T-15 has its own engine mounts built into the case just like the old .15 Fe had. It should screw into the 4 holes that are already drilled into the chassis.

scaredsilly- I think you might want to look at the OFNA clutch bells since they are higher quality and more suited to the steel spur gears. I think you can get away with using the HPI one depending on what your doing with your truck, but it would probably be wise to upgrade it anyway.

[doesgo]

"Doesgo-I have a 2 speed with my big block, and run 13/44 as first gear and 18/39 as second gear."

Sweeeeeeeeeet! Where'd you get those gears? I didn't even know they were available.

[littlebuddha]

thanks for the help jetskiboy! phew!

[cadiken]

Guys, do you think 13/48 and 18/39 will work or would I have to run 18/43 second gear?
I would like to get as much top end as I can but very good take off speed.

[scaredsilly]

The T-15 has its own engine mounts built into the case just like the old .15 Fe had. It should screw into the 4 holes that are already drilled into the chassis.

scaredsilly- I think you might want to look at the OFNA clutch bells since they are higher quality and more suited to the steel spur gears. I think you can get away with using the HPI one depending on what your doing with your truck, but it would probably be wise to upgrade it anyway.

Thanks.

Should I stick with 12, or go for a higher tooth count. What would put me close to stock (assuming I got the 49 tooth steel gear)?

[Jetskiboy77]

thanks for the help jetskiboy! phew!

No problem, its why im here.


Doesgo, and to anyone else who wants the gears I run- Im looking for them now on Tower. Heres the clutch bell.

13/18 Clutchbell (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM730&P=0)

Ok cant find the spurs because heres the thing: Some of HPI's gears, dont have the 2 little pieces that stick out and go into the gear adapter. I ordered a gear once and there was no way for me to put it into the tranny. So you know when you get new parts, and it has the paper on the top thats stapled to the plastic and it says what it is and the part #, well I saved all those since I started buying parts, so tomorrow when I get back from school, I will look through them for the part numbers and post them.

Now I need help with gearing: If I get a OS. 18 CVR, and have the stock NMT tires, what gearing should I run? I have no idea since I dont know exactly how much power the OS actually has, and I figured a lot of you guys have it and could give me a good gearing choice. Keep in mind I have the NMT 2 slipper, so I will need to use a Savage spur.

[doesgo]

"Should I stick with 12, or go for a higher tooth count. What would put me close to stock (assuming I got the 49 tooth steel gear)?"

Ummmm, what is the stock gearing? I can't remember. 13/52? If you can tell me that I can tell you what bell to use to get back to the stock ratio with a 49-tooth bell, but you'll probably want to drop one tooth on the bell.

And speaking of the bell, you DEFINITELY need a hardened clutch bell for a steel spur. Sorry I forgot to mention that. Check out our "Cold" video at www.slapmafro.com to see what happens when you run a stock bell and a steel spur, it's about 3:10 into the video.

[scaredsilly]

"Should I stick with 12, or go for a higher tooth count. What would put me close to stock (assuming I got the 49 tooth steel gear)?"

Ummmm, what is the stock gearing? I can't remember. 13/52? If you can tell me that I can tell you what bell to use to get back to the stock ratio with a 49-tooth bell, but you'll probably want to drop one tooth on the bell.

And speaking of the bell, you DEFINITELY need a hardened clutch bell for a steel spur. Sorry I forgot to mention that. Check out our "Cold" video at www.slapmafro.com to see what happens when you run a stock bell and a steel spur, it's about 3:10 into the video.

Stock is 12/52.

[doesgo]

11/49 would give you the same gear ratio (within 3%) of 12/52.

[scaredsilly]

"Should I stick with 12, or go for a higher tooth count. What would put me close to stock (assuming I got the 49 tooth steel gear)?"

Ummmm, what is the stock gearing? I can't remember. 13/52? If you can tell me that I can tell you what bell to use to get back to the stock ratio with a 49-tooth bell, but you'll probably want to drop one tooth on the bell.

And speaking of the bell, you DEFINITELY need a hardened clutch bell for a steel spur. Sorry I forgot to mention that. Check out our "Cold" video at www.slapmafro.com to see what happens when you run a stock bell and a steel spur, it's about 3:10 into the video.

So would this be what I'm looking for?
clicky (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000672562&I=LXBL91&P=K)

[Jetskiboy77]

I think so thats what your looking for. It should fit and work perfect.

[buzzsaw46]

No problem, its why im here.


Doesgo, and to anyone else who wants the gears I run- Im looking for them now on Tower. Heres the clutch bell.

13/18 Clutchbell (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM730&P=0)

Ok cant find the spurs because heres the thing: Some of HPI's gears, dont have the 2 little pieces that stick out and go into the gear adapter. I ordered a gear once and there was no way for me to put it into the tranny. So you know when you get new parts, and it has the paper on the top thats stapled to the plastic and it says what it is and the part #, well I saved all those since I started buying parts, so tomorrow when I get back from school, I will look through them for the part numbers and post them.

Now I need help with gearing: If I get a OS. 18 CVR, and have the stock NMT tires, what gearing should I run? I have no idea since I dont know exactly how much power the OS actually has, and I figured a lot of you guys have it and could give me a good gearing choice. Keep in mind I have the NMT 2 slipper, so I will need to use a Savage spur.

I just ran my NMT with stock tires and 15/52 gears with my CV-R this week end and it seems pretty good I mght still go a bit higher once the engine is broke in.

[Jetskiboy77]

Thanks a lot buzzsaw.

[cadiken]

Well I've done a lot of learning these past two days.

Jetskiboy: For your NMT with slipper I found that a 48/16 combo works good with the .18 CVR and 52/14 for a .21 NMT (offroad I'm told). They are both savage gears and clutchbells. You are in luck, Robinson Racing makes them both in steel. Great low end and big tires will help your high end.

I found two ways to go with my NMT 2 speed. I can change my clutchbell to 13/18 and just change my second gear to 47T. HPI makes an adapter style 47T. Or I can go 13/18 clutchbell and 49/44 spurs with 13/49 being first gear.

With what I've learned I feel like a jerk for my last question. Please erase all remnances of it from memory.

[doesgo]

Oh man, I totally forgot about running a 2-speed bell on a 1-speed spur! Great way to get more gear.

[Jetskiboy77]

Well I've done a lot of learning these past two days.

Jetskiboy: For your NMT with slipper I found that a 48/16 combo works good with the .18 CVR and 52/14 for a .21 NMT (offroad I'm told). They are both savage gears and clutchbells. You are in luck, Robinson Racing makes them both in steel. Great low end and big tires will help your high end.

I found two ways to go with my NMT 2 speed. I can change my clutchbell to 13/18 and just change my second gear to 47T. HPI makes an adapter style 47T. Or I can go 13/18 clutchbell and 49/44 spurs with 13/49 being first gear.

With what I've learned I feel like a jerk for my last question. Please erase all remnances of it from memory.


lol, What was your last question?

BTW, thanks for the CVR gearing help. Also, I made my mind up like two months ago that I am going to change my gearing to 13/49 first gear and second will be 18/49, so well be running the same gearing. :) I just never got around to doing it because I cant run my R/Cs because of school and the damn snow, so Im not in a rush too change it just yet, but I will get to it very soon.

[buzzsaw46]

I think the 13/49 18/44 sounds like a nice setup for a two speed. I'm setting the .18cv-r truck up for onroad bashing so I might go higher than that even since the 15/52 seems to have plenty of lowend yet. I found a 47t single speed spur at the LHS I'll try next time I'm out(STUPID SNOW :mad: )

[cadiken]

All you guys stuck in the snow have my condolences. I live in South Florida where it is around 75 degrees all winter. Paradise

[doesgo]

I'll take the cold and snow to avoid that oppressive humidity you have to endure!

[da_genious]

Hi guys I am back again with a few questions and I hope one of you guys can help.
I recently got a Nitro MT2, which is a basic stock version. I have run in the engine as the book instructs. I have got thru 4 tanks but I can't seem to get the idle speed or response right. if I adjust the idle so that it's not speeding without the throttle pressed I can't get it revved up, whilst running the thrid tank I put it on the floor and made it moved slightly but I can't get it to move properly. I'm sure the engine needs adjusting and the manual doesn't make things too clear. The engine starts with no probs at all but then everything seems to go pear shaped.............!! can someone give me detailed instructions on how to get around this problem? I want to be enjoying myself on the weekend....!! :( .

[Jetskiboy77]

I'll take the cold and snow to avoid that oppressive humidity you have to endure!

I agree, ill take the cold too. It gives me time to work on the R/C's too. I also perfer to be cold than to be in the hot, humid weather.

[cadiken]

Yeah, you guys say that now but once you've experienced a beach party in January you'll change your minds. I mean the water is around 80 degrees and you know what a little cool breeze does to girls in bikinis. How can you not love wearing shorts and a tee all year round?

Da genious:
I figure you are running a HPI T15 or 15FE. If you are,
try closing the needle valve all the way and openning it up 2.5 turns and set the idle using your throttle trim. Run it and then give it a 30 degree turn in if it runs really ruff and smokes heavily. If it seems to run too well turn it out (counterclockwise) 30 degrees. You should be ready for this if you've put 4 tanks through it. After 4 or 5 more tanks you can begin to lean it a little more gradually. Oh yeah, Get a heat gun or something and check your temp constantly. You will be able to tell when the engine is running too hot (lean) by a drastic change in the temp while running. If engine gets too hot turn needle valve out 30 to 45 degrees.

[rstnboy]

Sorry folks but I just have to chime in on this one. Up until last year, I had spent the last ten years living next to the ocean...Puerto Rico, Hawaii, Florida, and Australia. I now have to endure the dessicating climate of New Mexico and I will take the humidity over the dryness (or cold) anytime! Cadiken, I envy you right now. Dry sucks but cold sucks even worse! There is nothing quite like sitting on the beach, beverage of choice in hand, watching the scenery and listening to the waves in January knowing that some poor sap is shoveling snow in 10 layers of clothing hoping the ice on the power lines doesn't knock the power out. Anything north of I-10 just isn't for me.

Now back on topic...I just got an MT Racer in trade for my mini-t. It was somewhat of a basket case when I got it but, with a little perseverence, I got it back together and finally got to run it today. It is bone stock but I have plans to upgrade it at some point in the future. I don't know if I will go for more power or more ruggedness firts...any suggestions? For the time being, I have to say I am impressed. It handles very well and seem to hold a tune well also. During the buildup and after a thorough cleaning, I sealed the engine including around the shaft where it exits the front bearing. Since the engine was already broken in tuning was a breeze.

[Jetskiboy77]

You`ve lived in some beautiful places. lol I wonder what would happen to be your beverage of choice?

[Jetskiboy77]

Hi guys I am back again with a few questions and I hope one of you guys can help.
I recently got a Nitro MT2, which is a basic stock version. I have run in the engine as the book instructs. I have got thru 4 tanks but I can't seem to get the idle speed or response right. if I adjust the idle so that it's not speeding without the throttle pressed I can't get it revved up, whilst running the thrid tank I put it on the floor and made it moved slightly but I can't get it to move properly. I'm sure the engine needs adjusting and the manual doesn't make things too clear. The engine starts with no probs at all but then everything seems to go pear shaped.............!! can someone give me detailed instructions on how to get around this problem? I want to be enjoying myself on the weekend....!! :( .

Just a thought, your clutch may not be set up right. Otherwise, I would suggest you go back to the stock settings and start over, slowly tuning untill you get it right. Turn the screws in small incriments and check with a temp gauge if you have one. Id get one if I didnt have one already. I am more of a hands on person, so its gonna be hard for me to try and help, especially when its something as complicated and finiky as an engine problem.

BTW, dont be discouraged since your having a hard time tuning an engine, we have all been there.

[rstnboy]

Jetskiboy77...Beverage of choice depended on locale. In Puerto Rico, it would be a Tequila Sunrise with some fresh pineapple for good measure (or just straight tequila). In Hawaii, it was the same (fresh tropical fruit juices just have no equal). In Australia, it was Victoria Bitter (the best beer in the world in my opinion) or a really nice Australian port wine, and in Florida it was whatever was in the keg or pitcher on the beach!!!!

Da_genious...I am going to assume by your post that you are on tank 4 from a new engine. I had a similar problem to yours with another toy (XTM XLB) and mine didn't really settle down until I had run the equivalent of 8 tanks through it. I also got some red RTV from the auto parts store and sealed the backplate, carb, and crank where it exits the front bearing (just a thin film around the crank/inner bearing race). I also had to go back to factory default settings and start over a couple of times. The factory defaults provide a good baseline to start from when trying to balance throttle response and top end with the correct temperature range. As Jetskiboy77 said, a temp gauge is a must!

[da_genious]

yeah I've got a digital temp gun, the temp range averages at abt 190, when it's near the end of the tank it rises to about 210 or so. It starts perfectly. I think I'm jumping to conclusions too quick here, by the posts I can see that I need to run a few more tanks before I start proper fine tuning. I appreciate the help guys. I 'll keep you updated on the progress

[Jetskiboy77]

Yeah one of my engines ran like total crap untill I put about 15 tanks through it. It didnt tune right, it didnt run right, and sometimes it didnt start. After that its been a wonderful engine to use.

[nerv]

Hi guys, I upgraded my mt slipper clutch to the mt2 one, since it looks similar to the one on savage can I just use this:http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFFK0&P= on the mt2?

[Jetskiboy77]

I think you can.

[scaredsilly]

Oh man, I totally forgot about running a 2-speed bell on a 1-speed spur! Great way to get more gear.

Sorry, I'm slow. How does this work?

[doesgo]

Just cut off the smaller gear and leave the big one.

[scaredsilly]

Just cut off the smaller gear and leave the big one.

Hmm... ok. I guess I need to go figure out how the 2 speeds actaully work... I only ask cuz of that steel spur you have...
Thanks though.

[doesgo]

Wait, do you have a single-speed or two-speed? If a single, you can run a two-speed clutch bell, I believe, but just use the larger gear on the bell to give you more speed. You might even be able to leave the smaller gear on the bell but leave it unused.

Also, I was thinking about your PM question and I do think the steel spur would work on a 2-speed. It's got the little round pegs on it and comparing it to the larger gear for the two-speed on my touring car they look very much the same. Maybe I'll post a pic if I get a chance...

[Jetskiboy77]

You might even be able to leave the smaller gear on the bell but leave it unused.

You definitly can leave it there if you choose.

[da_genious]

Yeah one of my engines ran like total crap untill I put about 15 tanks through it. It didnt tune right, it didnt run right, and sometimes it didnt start. After that its been a wonderful engine to use.

Hi Guys, I have now got 9 tanks thru my MT2, the top speeds rip proper, I still think it is running a bit out of tune because:-

1. The engine is running at a slightly colder temperature. Outside temperature is abt 5 degrees here in the UK
2. It reaLLY drinks nitro juice.
3. The pick-up speed is a bit slow, I mean it is a bit sluggish getting off the mark, but runs at a decent speed when it's in motion.

Can anyone suggest what to do to fix the above symptoms. My Glow pluG went after the 9th tank so I will be running again tomorrow with a new plug. I haven't tuned the bottom adjust yet, still using the top one.
Any help will be appreciated. ;)

Regards

[PrimeTom]

Okay my Tmaxx is all tricked out.I am ready for my new project.Yes an MT2,but I want to make it an 80 MPH+ BULLET.Any good tips or ideas.If anyone is tryin to get rid of one(running or not) let me know

[Lancelot6840]

I've got an HPI Nitro MT with tons of hop ups and extras. If anybody knows some one that wants to buy it let me know. If serious I'll email a full list of parts, and pics.

[cadiken]

Hi Guys, I have now got 9 tanks thru my MT2, the top speeds rip proper, I still think it is running a bit out of tune because:-

1. The engine is running at a slightly colder temperature. Outside temperature is abt 5 degrees here in the UK
2. It reaLLY drinks nitro juice.
3. The pick-up speed is a bit slow, I mean it is a bit sluggish getting off the mark, but runs at a decent speed when it's in motion.

Can anyone suggest what to do to fix the above symptoms. My Glow pluG went after the 9th tank so I will be running again tomorrow with a new plug. I haven't tuned the bottom adjust yet, still using the top one.
Any help will be appreciated. ;)

Regards

Da-genious:
Do you have a racing clutch? That should give you better speed out the box and upgrade your gearing to gain quickness. I run a 2 speed and O.S. 18 CV-R in my NMT and I just changed my gearing to 13/18 and 44/49. I see a huge difference in takeoffs and top speed.

[PrimeTom]

I've got an HPI Nitro MT with tons of hop ups and extras. If anybody knows some one that wants to buy it let me know. If serious I'll email a full list of parts, and pics.

send pics 2 broluv7@msn.com

[buzzsaw46]

Hey Guys do any of you know where I could find a set of the Carbon grphite arms?? I cant even find the part number at HPI :(

[Tim'sLosi]

Has anyone performed a four spider gear diff upgrade like they do on the Savages? I am rebuilding my diffs and would like to strengthen them.

Like this http://www.savage-central.com/ftopic2200.html+gear+diff+mod

[Jetskiboy77]

I didnt know you could do that mod to a NMT.

[Tim'sLosi]

I'm not certain you can but if it can be done it would be nice. Those A850 gears are the weak point in my drivetrain. Maybe I will have to look at my LHS for compatible shafts with the needed notch in the middle.

[MT2 owns you]

recently ive been looking into getting an MT, not an MT2, but an MT. well today i was showing my dad HPI's super nitro rally and as i was going through the pics i noticed that the upper deck is very similar if not the same as the MT. i did a search for what chassis it had and from what i found they are the same. i then downloaded the cross reference parts list, narrowed it down to the MT kit and the Rally and theres only a dozen or so parts that are diferent (suspension mostly im pretty sure). if so thats awesome. now, what i want to know is if its true. is it?? thanks.

[Tim'sLosi]

Sure it is true. The NMT came first, then HPI changed the suspension, gearing and wheels and voila...a rally car. There were guys making rally cars out of their NMTs way back when.

[MT2 owns you]

thats man thats awesome. im not surprised that they were its just i was a little doubtful that they were the same because the rally is suposed to be 1/8 (a small 1/8?) and the MT is 1/10..silly isnt it? thanks again!

[PCC]

I'm not certain you can but if it can be done it would be nice. Those A850 gears are the weak point in my drivetrain. Maybe I will have to look at my LHS for compatible shafts with the needed notch in the middle.
86014 are the hardened steel versions of the A850 gears. They were used in the NRS4-3 SS.

[Tim'sLosi]

86014 are the hardened steel versions of the A850 gears. They were used in the NRS4-3 SS.
Thanks! That is what I needed but could not find anymore. I guess I will return the pair of A850's I bought!
Tim

[slaf]

I bought a used HPI MT Racer but I'm not 100% sure it's a Racer.

My truck has MIP CVD's on the 4 corners, slipper clutch, bowties tires with the Racer wheels but he has plastic turnbuckles instead of steel ones.

Is there any other things I should check to identify my truck....?

[Tim'sLosi]

I bought a used HPI MT Racer but I'm not 100% sure it's a Racer.

My truck has MIP CVD's on the 4 corners, slipper clutch, bowties tires with the Racer wheels but he has plastic turnbuckles instead of steel ones.

Is there any other things I should check to identify my truck....?
Check it out at HPI's web site. http://hpiracing.com/kits/nitromtracer/nmtr-m.htm

[slaf]

I did look at the web site....I still can't find difference between my truck and the racer except those turnbuckles....

[Tim'sLosi]

You could pull the diffs and see if they have the o-ring seals. I doubt someone faking a racer would go that far. And if they did who cares...it is a racer at that point! He may have had no interest in adjusting the links or might have broken one and gone the cheap route with the links. Maybe he had two trucks and kept the turnbuckles for the other.

[slaf]

I parted out the diffs and cleaned them and greased them but I can't remeber if I saw the little red o-ring :(

[slaf]

I don't have the primer on the fuel tank that NMT has...and the pressure line doesn't connect at the same place as NMT

I have the racing clutch (looks like mip 4in1)

[Tim'sLosi]

By-the-way, thanks for the diff help guys. I returned the two pack of A850 gears and bought the 86014 set...actually saved $3! I can't wait to get the truck up and running again. It has been down for about three years now due to lack of time and time spent on other vehicles. I should never have to tear down the diffs again with these hd gears.
Tim

[Tim'sLosi]

Did you ask the seller about the links? Might be the easiest route to the root. TT

[Tim'sLosi]

recently ive been looking into getting an MT, not an MT2, but an MT. well today i was showing my dad HPI's super nitro rally and as i was going through the pics i noticed that the upper deck is very similar if not the same as the MT. i did a search for what chassis it had and from what i found they are the same. i then downloaded the cross reference parts list, narrowed it down to the MT kit and the Rally and theres only a dozen or so parts that are diferent (suspension mostly im pretty sure). if so thats awesome. now, what i want to know is if its true. is it?? thanks.


LOL! I just bought a Super Nitro Rally Scubaru off an RCtech guy. Looks to be in nice shape, can't wait to run it! It is funny that I bought one right after answering your question about them. An omen I guess! TT

[MT2 owns you]

slaf- waht chassis does it have? how thick?
the stock mt i think has the 2mm one and the racer i hitnk has the heavy duty 2.5mm one

Tim's Losi- thats awesome! i will hopefully be getting mine in the next 2 months, but new. hopefully my hobby shop will take the engine and exaust off my hands(and giving me money or a store credit or somethin) so that i can by an OS engine (cvrx or tz .18) and a rd logics pipe :) then..destroy it and start over again! have fun

[Tim'sLosi]

Here are a couple of pics...should have it on Friday!

Pic 1

[Tim'sLosi]

Pic 2

[slaf]

MT2 -> I'll try to measure it tonight but I don,t have caliper to be sure....

[doesgo]

Does the Super Nitro have a two-speed? What bell/spur gearing?

[Tim'sLosi]

Does the Super Nitro have a two-speed? What bell/spur gearing?
No, not factory. It can be added as well as all the other Nitro MT Options. Stock the two speed is an 11/52 set-up.

[PCC]

The NMTR has: Racer fuel tank, thicker 2.5mm chassis, turnbuckles, racing clutch, slipper clutch, stainless hingepins, and a few other minor differences.

The standard NMT has a primered fuel tank, 2.0mm chassis, plastic camber links, standard clutch shoes, fixed 52T spur gear, and screw-on hingepins.

I think the NMTR has hingepin braces, too.

The problem is that anyone can take a NMTR and, though normal upgrading and replacing things that break, end up with a NMTR or something really close. I started off with a NMTR and fixed it up some before selling it. My brother bought a NMT RTR and it's up to NMTR spec now, even down to the thicker 2.5mm chassis.

[Tim'sLosi]

I am seeing this car with the two-speed, a CF upper deck, my .12R xs engine out of my dragster and a few other tweaks.

[MT2 owns you]

tim's losi- that thing is nice. do you think id be ale to convert my mt2? the chassis are a lot alike so id expect it to. oh well..im still getting it constantly converting back and forth would probably get annoying after a while...cant wait to get my SNR...

[scaredsilly]

Do any car bodies fit on the original NMT? I've gone onroad with it, and the truck body isn't working for me (aesticially). Thanks.

[doesgo]

How tall are those SN tires? Seems like you'd need a really tall gear to get any speed because they look pretty short.

[MT2 owns you]

They're 57mm tall, 35mm wide. ( http://www.hpiracing.com/tires/tire-s.htm ). I've heard that with the stock gearing that the car is very slow, like 30-35mph. most people seem to upgrade, i know i am. *man i cant wait to get one of those!*

Also, does anybody know if the NMT turnbucles/tierods/ whatever they're called are the same length as the MT2 turnbuckles/ dealys? im going to be getting titatnium lunsford turnbuckles with heavy duty RPM rod ends/ball cups/ whatever. I've heard they're good. any comments appreciated (on the 'buckles or rod ends that is).

scared silly- since the SNR is based off of the NMT shouldn't the super size HPI bodies fit? I'd try the Subaru or Mitsubishi body (300mm).

[scaredsilly]

scared silly- since the SNR is based off of the NMT shouldn't the super size HPI bodies fit? I'd try the Subaru or Mitsubishi body (300mm).

I was just looking at the same thing... Anyone tried this?

[Kenny T]

I've got an NMTR but I put the platic links on instead of the turnbuckles because I couldn't be bothered building them or makng sure the alignment wasn't off. That's probably what the previous owner did with you truck slaf.

[buzzsaw46]

I was just looking at the same thing... Anyone tried this?

I have seen some pics of super sized car bodies on NMTs but I dont know if the shock towers cause any issues? I almost got the Suzuki Escudo body for my rebuild but decided to go with the E-MT F-150 body and the rear tower is a small problem with that body.

[PCC]

Do any car bodies fit on the original NMT? I've gone onroad with it, and the truck body isn't working for me (aesticially). Thanks.
Standard 190mm or 200mm car tires are too wide to work with the NMT. If you convert it to the SNR width then any of the HPI Super sized bodies will work. You can even reverse the rear suspension to shorten the wheelbase to fit the 280mm bodies.

The NMT bodies are very narrow to clear the tires when the fronts are turned. If you want to mount a standard touring car body onto an NMT running the standard NMT suspension you will find that you will have to cut out a lot of the body to clear the tires. The smaller SNRS4 wheels and tires won't need as much clearance but you will still need to clearance them.

[PCC]

They're 57mm tall, 35mm wide. ( http://www.hpiracing.com/tires/tire-s.htm ). I've heard that with the stock gearing that the car is very slow, like 30-35mph. most people seem to upgrade, i know i am. *man i cant wait to get one of those!*

scared silly- since the SNR is based off of the NMT shouldn't the super size HPI bodies fit? I'd try the Subaru or Mitsubishi body (300mm).
See my previous post about the Super sized bodies.

As for the gearing you can always get the NRS4-3 two-speed. Since this is made for the NRS4-3, with its smaller tires but same diffs it should be about perfect for increased speeds. If it turns out to be too tall then ou can go with one or two tooth smaller pinions for both first and second. Make sure to get the matching pinions (they're color coded to work together).

[buzzsaw46]

scaredsilly,

Here is a pic of my truck right now, I'm still waiting for a few more bits of alloy to complete it. In fact the only plastic part left when its done will be the grab handle, arms will be carbon graphite(yep I found some).

My latest round of upgrades

Alloy top deck
Alloy steering w/BB
Alloy steering plate
Alloy front and rear towers
Front super shocks
F/R center universals
F/R HD diff gears
O.S.18CV-RX
Alloy F/R knuckles
Alloy BB C-hubs(in transit)
Alloy rear tower braces(in transit)
Carbon graphite arms
Alloy center gear mount
Highly ported NJ BTH
Ofna pipe

Parts on my too get list

Alloy arm mounts F/R
Alloy diff cases F/R
New RX compatable with my R-1


Man I'm so close now, I've wanted to do this for 5 years and it's almost there :D . Then I can finish my T-maxx only need about $200 more for that one and it's done! Not sure what my next project will be, possibly an SNR conversion on my other NMT?

Pic of my truck before the last round of upgrades http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showpost.php?p=1515921&postcount=1009

[doesgo]

Lookin' good, buzzsaw! What are the plans for this truck when it's done? Racing? Bashing? I'm looking forward to a report on the .18 CV-RX, I've heard good things...

[buzzsaw46]

Lookin' good, buzzsaw! What are the plans for this truck when it's done? Racing? Bashing? I'm looking forward to a report on the .18 CV-RX, I've heard good things...

Thanks!

My main plan is just to beat my buddies Ultra worlds 2 buggy in a flat out drag race, I dont know though his RZ-B '01 was sounding pretty mean last time we ran together but I wasn't much slower on top end with my old CX-12.

I might check with the local club and see if they will let me run it in some unlimited class but their track is short and tight so I doubt all the power will help me any.

The O.S CV-R 18's ROCK I have one in my T-maxx and it is awesome, blows away a stock Savage SS 25 both on low end and top speed. For the price I really dont think you can beat the 18CV-R

[scaredsilly]

Thanks!

My main plan is just to beat my buddies Ultra worlds 2 buggy in a flat out drag race, I dont know though his RZ-B '01 was sounding pretty mean last time we ran together but I wasn't much slower on top end with my old CX-12.

I might check with the local club and see if they will let me run it in some unlimited class but their track is short and tight so I doubt all the power will help me any.

The O.S CV-R 18's ROCK I have one in my T-maxx and it is awesome, blows away a stock Savage SS 25 both on low end and top speed. For the price I really dont think you can beat the 18CV-R

I agree with buzzsaw. i've got the same engine in mine, and the thing just moves somethign crazy now. Way stronger than the .15FE I had in there before.

[buzzsaw46]

I agree with buzzsaw. i've got the same engine in mine, and the thing just moves somethign crazy now. Way stronger than the .15FE I had in there before.

What CB/spur are you using? right now mine has a 15/47 setup but I havent had a chance to run this setup yet. Stupid snow!! We got like 24" here friday/saturday, gonna take awhile to dry up at least its fairly warm now and we are melting snow.

[scaredsilly]

What CB/spur are you using? right now mine has a 15/47 setup but I havent had a chance to run this setup yet. Stupid snow!! We got like 24" here friday/saturday, gonna take awhile to dry up at least its fairly warm now and we are melting snow.

Right now I'm just running stock. I just converted it to an onroad car, and the thing will light up all 4 tires from a dead stop as it is. I obvioulsy don't have sticky enough tires.

[buzzsaw46]

I dont think tires will help much against the torque of the 18. I ran mine once for a couple minutes on a 15/52 and I had more low end then with the stock gears and CX12. Once I get a chance to try out the 15/47 I'll let you know how it goes but it might be a bit to tall now, just a feeling I have but we'll see ;) Once I figure out where I want first gear I'll drop in the two speed and see how fast it can be. :D

Still havent found much info on the Road Rage vs Road Hawgs, any of you guys have experience with these tires? I'm looking for good grip on unprepaired asphalt. Just from looking at the tread it seems the Road Hawgs would be the better choice but looks can be deceiving.

[scaredsilly]

I dont think tires will help much against the torque of the 18. I ran mine once for a couple minutes on a 15/52 and I had more low end then with the stock gears and CX12. Once I get a chance to try out the 15/47 I'll let you know how it goes but it might be a bit to tall now, just a feeling I have but we'll see ;) Once I figure out where I want first gear I'll drop in the two speed and see how fast it can be. :D

Still havent found much info on the Road Rage vs Road Hawgs, any of you guys have experience with these tires? I'm looking for good grip on unprepaired asphalt. Just from looking at the tread it seems the Road Hawgs would be the better choice but looks can be deceiving.

I'm actually running the 2 speed right now as well. the first gear is 12/52 and second is 18/49? That sound right? I think so, but not sure.

I'm also interested in that tire question...

[buzzsaw46]

If it's the stock two speed its 11/52 14/49, so when I was running 15/52 I had a slightly higher ratio than you have in second and I was having trouble getting traction(on gravel). I'm guessing the 15/18 bell and 49/46 spurs will be where I end up.

[buzzsaw46]

Just did a couple mods to improve a couple areas that still had some free play after all my recent purchases. It also elimintates the need for E-clips to hold the hinge pins in place ;) The rears aren't as elegant as the fronts but effective none the less! It really tightened up the last bit of slop in the suspension, should also help with high speed stability I would think.

Here is the pic, let me hear your thoughts.

[generalfred]

I just installed an OS .18 CV-R and roasted my second slipper spur gear in two days. I guess the slipper just wasn't able to handle the power. What mods do you .21+ guys do to keep your truck together?

[cadiken]

I just installed an OS .18 CV-R and roasted my second slipper spur gear in two days. I guess the slipper just wasn't able to handle the power. What mods do you .21+ guys do to keep your truck together?


You have to get a very tight mesh or you will continue to chew up spurs. I started out with my OS .18 and I couldn't stop chewing them up but once I found the sweet spot for my mesh I haven't chewed one up since.

[generalfred]

It's not chewing the teeth up; it's melting where the plastic spur gear meets the metal slipper plate. The second time around, I made sure to tighten it completely (no slip), but no luck. Within one tank full, nothing but RPM and a free-spinning spur gear. I like my MT. it's the only R/C vehicle I've kept as I drift in and out of the hobby (done so since '86). I just ordered a Savage 25.

[doesgo]

Get an MT2 slipper clutch here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFYP4&P=7) for $12.99. It's basically a Savage slipper which holds up to rather powerful big blocks with regularity. It's a direct bolt-in for the NMT slipper, you just need these (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXDLG8) screw shafts to make it work.

I've been using that with my O.S. .21RG and it works great!

[doesgo]

Looks good, buzzsaw!

[buzzsaw46]

I got some fuel through the 18 today, and wow is it fast!! I'm running a 15t clutch bell and 47t spur so I wasnt real surprized by the speed what did surprize me is I still had enough low end to spin the tires on black top. I did have a few issues though that had to be fixxed when I got home, first problem was the front left dog bone seems shorter than it used to so I shimed out the out drive and shimed the axle in a bit and that seems to have it fixed. Second problem was with a GPM universal center shaft, the rear one started to throw it's pin so I had to lock tite the pin in place. I hope to give it some more run time tommarow to see if I got the problems solved.

I know we have talked some about two speed gears on the OS 18 and after running with the 15cb and 52 spur and now running the 47t spur I think I'm going to go with a 13/16cb and 49/46 spurs.

For those of you that have run on road tires , I was wondering if they balloon as bad as the stockers? my fronts were expanding big time today when I would get up the speed a bit, made high speed handling a bit strange.

Hope every one had a great Easter!!!

[mandt131]

hi i'm putting a hotbodies 18 motor in my mt2 but old clutch bell is knackered its a 13 tooth is it ok to fit a savage 1 in its place and does it make a differance the more teeth it has i was thinking 15 tooth

[buzzsaw46]

A Savage cb. should work no problem since the MT2 uses a savage spur on the slipper, I'm not sur what kind of power the HB.18 has so a 15t might be a bit large but if you have access to one give it a try!

[mandt131]

thanx mate will let you know how i get on :)

[buzzsaw46]

Well the GPM universal shafts where a waste of money, as I mentioned the rear one started to throw it's pin last weekend, loc-tite didnt fix it its starting to pop out again and the front one had a total blow out after only 1/2 a tank today:mad: I have an HPI rear to drop in but the front will have to be a stock bone for right now.

[doesgo]

In my experience, GPM sucks! They don't have any warranty on their stuff, if you break something they just say their intended to be used on show trucks, not actual trucks to be driven.

I put some of their Titanium dogbones on my Savage a couple years ago and the pins kept sliding out and breaking off, it was terrible. A friend ran their titanium universals in his Savage, they lasted about one tank. Quick $100 down the drain.

[buzzsaw46]

I hope the C-hubs and shock towers aren't as bad as the universal center shafts :rolleyes: At least I got the parts cheap on ebay, still it's a drag having to pull it apart once again. Do the HPI universals hold up good or should I upgrade to the MT2 centers?

[doesgo]

Seems like as long as all you need is for the parts to sit there, GPM's stuff is okay. But as soon as it's in a stressed situation, they're junk.

I haven't used the HPI universals at all, but the MT2 stuff is all larger in diameter so it stands to reason that it'd be stronger than the original NMT stuff.

[buzzsaw46]

What do you use on your .21 nmt? I used to break rear centers on a regular basis with just my CX.12, the front bone twisted a bit but I wore out the pins before it broke. So I might be ok with just the stock bone up front and I'll give my HPI uni a try in the rear just to see how it holds up, if it fails I'll check into MT2 drive components.

On the subject of the O.S. 18 CV-RX it kicks butt!! Right now I'm running a 15t bell and 47t spur and there is no problem with low end, in fact it's still better than my novarossi was with stock gears. Top end I'm not sure about just yet parts keep failing before I get a chance to really top it out but I know at 1/2-2/3 throttle its way faster than my 18 powered T-maxx. I might go to higher gears just to see how far I can go before the low end suffers. I read over at BYT a guy was running a 22t bell with 52t spur and was having trouble getting traction off the line.

[doesgo]

Right now I'm using MT2 rear diff outdrives, axle stubs, and driveshafts, but the centers and fronts are all stock NMT stuff. I haven't abused mine too much yet, though. I ran it some last winter but snow has a tendency to let things spin which really reduces the chances of things breaking. Two weekends from now I plan to do some proper bashing and jumping with it so we'll see how it holds up. I'm hoping to get the rest of the MT2 driveline and bumpers installed by then, but time will tell...

[buzzsaw46]

How is the lenght on the MT2 drive shafts, do they fit the mt ok if you use the new outdrives?

[doesgo]

The four corner dogbones fit great as long as you use the MT2 outdrives and axle stubs. Haven't tried the centers yet, but I'm 99% sure they'll fit fine with MT2 cups.

[buzzsaw46]

I'm pretty sure the center are the same also since the chassis and gear boxes are the same. I priced out the MT2 drive train awhile back and it was pretty spendy but probably worth doing as parts wear out/break.

Thanks for all your help.

[doesgo]

Yeah, if you were to upgrade all of it at the same time it'd be pretty expensive! I'm doing it little by little. So far I have the MT2 slipper and rearend stuff, with the frontend stuff, shock towers, and bumpers on-hand and ready to go. Just need some time!

[buzzsaw46]

Are you going to keep the MT arms or are you going to convert to full MT2? I just fixxed up my truck last night so I'm going to burn some fuel and see if I can get through more than half a tank before it tears itself apart again.

[doesgo]

As of right now I'm going to keep the MT arms, unless they become a problem. Hopefully with good bumpers they'll survive. Lately I've been upgrading as I break stuff or as I run out of original parts, but I've still got several spare arms on hand so I'll be running those for a while.

[buzzsaw46]

I was thinking about doing the MT2 conversion when I rebuilt this time, but I still have a bunch of spare parts for the original also.

Seems like I have my drive train problems solved, made it through two tanks of fuel yesterday afternoon without any breakage:) Wheelies are very cool with an MT!! Yes with my trac-ta-gators I can get wheelies in the grass and it will lift the front end slightly on packed dirt.

[doesgo]

Congratulations on the lack of breakage! Sure makes it more fun, doesn't it?

Holy cow, wheelies with an NMT? That's nuts! My big-block NMT won't even do that! The big-block RC10GT I just built last night will, though. :) :) :)

[buzzsaw46]

I was surprized to see the wheelies also, the first one I wasnt trying and I flipped it over backwards. Once I relized it would do it then I was trying to ride them out for awhile but they almost always end in a spectacular cartwheel. Yes it's alot more fun when you dont have to wrench between tanks and after a couple of those cartwheels I though for sure something would break, but I only lost a rear spring retainer and split a pipe coupler. I tried to get the wife to video a run but she couldnt keep up with the truck.

[Tim'sLosi]

I tried to get the wife to video a run but she couldnt keep up with the truck.

LOL!

[NitroTXT1]

well seeing as i haven't sold my nmt i may just keep it haven't decided but my question is can my slipper clutch,shimed diffs,and heavy duty diffs do the job? this is a first gen mt so i dunno if i should switch to mt2 slipper unit....and i dunno what engine to toss in here I was going to throw down a mach.26 but many people said it would be able to handle the power but i still am gonna try it lol

[buzzsaw46]

The MT2 slipper is a nice setup and dosent cost as much as I would have thought it would. If you already have a big block and mounts that will work go for it, but if you want to stay with a small block that really screems check out the O.S. TZ.18 really the cv-rx.18 is a potent small block for the NMT and they are very inexpensive.

[buzzsaw46]

Hey doesgo,

What servo saver would you recomend?? I think my stock one is a bit loose for the speeds I'm running now!!

[doesgo]

Can't help you on the servo saver, buzzsaw, I'm wondering the same thing. I don't like the stock one I've got, but I'm not sure what else will work. Maybe one from a Savage would be stiffer?

[buzzsaw46]

I have a kimbrough on my T-maxx that works very well but the instructions clearly state that it shouldnt be used with plastic geared servos, which my S131's(old version of the S9202) are. I seem to recall alot of guys using the Ofna saver back when the HPI forum was still up and running so I might go with that and see how it works.

That savage idea isn't bad my buddy just bought the cam style one for his savage so maybe I can swipe his original;)

If I gat a chance to try out the savage one this weekend I'll let you know how it works out.

[PrimeTom]

:mad: Can't get O.S. .15 cv-r started in nmt.I changed glow plug and fuel lines.Starts sometimes with thottle wid open but wont idle shuts off .Anybody got a clue for me :confused: :confused: :confused:

[doesgo]

Which OFNA saver? I know the Monster Pirate saver works well on the Savage, but the NMT is quite different. Similar layout, but not sizing.

I've got a spare Kimbrough for my Savage and a metal-geared steering servo, maybe I'll try that one. Definitely post how well it works for you, I won't be bashing for over a week. :(

[buzzsaw46]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFNF1&P=7 this is the Ofna one I was looking at, but thats on hold till I try the savage unit.

[Tim'sLosi]

:mad: Can't get O.S. .15 cv-r started in nmt.I changed glow plug and fuel lines.Starts sometimes with thottle wid open but wont idle shuts off .Anybody got a clue for me :confused: :confused: :confused:

Are you at factory settings? Any air leaks at backplate or carb? Do you have a gap in carb at idle? How old is engine...could you have lost compression?

[mandt131]

hi got my new 18 hotbodies engine fitted run in and tuned up sweet unbelieveable compaired to the standrd t15 meant to say its in an mt2 got new wheels with road rage tyres does any one know of a 2speed that'll drop staright in and also on some earlier threads i noticed that some of you are fitting car shells rather than the usual truck bodies looks cool anybody got any pics for ideas of wot will fit

[PrimeTom]

Are you at factory settings? Any air leaks at backplate or carb? Do you have a gap in carb at idle? How old is engine...could you have lost compression?

Do you know the factory settings?Not sure how old it is got it off EBAY.ran fine for two tanks now can't get it started.if it does start stalls when i hit brakes :mad:

[doesgo]

That last detail says your idle speed screw is set too low, which could certainly cause the other problems you describe as well.

[PrimeTom]

That last detail says your idle speed screw is set too low, which could certainly cause the other problems you describe as well.

Okay thanks Ill try that.Does it matter if the carb is turned a little on an angle.I turned so the throttle would open all the way because the linkage isn't long enough

[doesgo]

Nope, that's fine as long as it's in the block securely and the o-ring(s) is intact. It's best to run a thin bead of RTV around the base of the carb housing where it seats against the block to prevent air leaks.

[PrimeTom]

Nope, that's fine as long as it's in the block securely and the o-ring(s) is intact. It's best to run a thin bead of RTV around the base of the carb housing where it seats against the block to prevent air leaks.

Thanks Ill go work on it.The LHS said they would work on it for $20 an hour SCREW THAT!!Ill buy a new motor before that.Its ashame I spend hundreds at a time there and cant get a little advice there :(

[buzzsaw46]

Hey doesgo, I dindt get a chance to try the Savage servo saver yet but I just installed it and ther is a small issue with the geometery, I think it can be fixxed but there wont be much plastic left to thread the ball stud into.

I'll poke around with it a bit more and see if I can get it satisfactory and let you know what I come up with.

[doesgo]

Sounds good, buzzsaw.

[mandt131]

hi does any body know if there is a 2 speed that'll drop straight into an mt2 using mostly on tarmac

[mandt131]

hi dont understand this i have posted a few questions but no responses is it always like this with newbies came over from the lightning section as i have now bought an mt2 but no info asked for help no replies

[doesgo]

For one, this particular forum isn't all that active and for two, I'm guessing nobody knows! If I knew the answer to your question I'd certainly post about it, but I simply don't know.

[mandt131]

fair enough i'll box it and go back to my lightning pro cause as is its slower

[buzzsaw46]

Mandt131, try the MT2 thread the guys there have the same truck as you, those of us here are playing with the first version of the truck. Even though they are basicly the same there have been some changes to the drive train. I would guess the NMT two speed would work but the gear shaft wont have holes all the way through like the MT2 has so you will need to figure out a few minor things to make it work.

[mandt131]

Mandt131, try the MT2 thread the guys there have the same truck as you, those of us here are playing with the first version of the truck. Even though they are basicly the same there have been some changes to the drive train. I would guess the NMT two speed would work but the gear shaft wont have holes all the way through like the MT2 has so you will need to figure out a few minor things to make it work.
ok thanks will give it a try :)

[buzzsaw46]

Doesgo, I had a chance to burn up a tank of fuel on varying terain yesterday and I do like the savage servo saver seems a bit more stable through the rougher stuff, But I decided to move some servos between my T-maxx and my NMT so I will soon have a JR 8417 high speed digi on steering in my NMT and since it has metal gears I will see if my kimbrough saver is stiffer and if it is I'll be using that since I just picked up a Proline steering setup and I'll move the Z650 from throttle to steering and use the s131s for T/B.

Wow I just put in the kimbrough and the 8417 and it is super stiff and man is that servo fast specs on it are 82oz/in @.10sec on 4.8v and I'm running 6v so it should be around 90oz/in@.09sec so I think it was a bit light on torque for the maxx but more than ample for the NMT.

Oh I also got a chance to hold full throttle for more than just a blip yesterday, FAST,FAST,FAST my buddy was driving his SS25 Sav and I could walk away from him at will. I'm guessing mid 50's but I still have awesome low end and have to ease into the throttle to keep it under control. I'm going to try an 18t cb very soon and see if I can tame the low end a bit and gain some more MPH.

Oh ya I also just installed a Spektrum RX so I was finally free from my old RTR blazer sport TX feels much nicer with the R-1. I dont really know how to decribe it but it just felt more locked in and precise, but that could have been the stiffer servo saver.

Back to work on the servo swap :p

I'll update after I run the new setup, I also want to try my Masher 2k's with all the power I have now they might not be so bad, they used to make my low end just horrible.

[Tim'sLosi]

Oh ya I also just installed a Spektrum RX so I was finally free from my old RTR blazer sport TX feels much nicer with the R-1. I dont really know how to decribe it but it just felt more locked in and precise, but that could have been the stiffer servo saver.

Back to work on the servo swap :p



Spektrum has a MUCH better response time...that's prob what you were feeling.

[buzzsaw46]

I'm also thinking the R-1 may have better poteinometers(SP) then the Blazer sport TX. but I'm sure the Spektrum response time and the fact that it can hit 4000+ possitions compared to PCM at just 1024 made a huge differance.

All night at work I cant stop thinking about how fun this truck has become, so fast, so nimble, I just want to drive it more :D

[doesgo]

Does anyone make aluminum c-hubs for the NMT?

[buzzsaw46]

GPM and Powerline do, I went with the GPM because they are setup for a 4x8 bearing for the knuckles to rotate on. I odered the wrong bearings at first and ran the stock delrin bushings which were a bit sloppy but what really surprized me was the amount of stickyness when turning, I didnt even notice till I put in the correct bearings this weekend now the steering is smooth as silk still a bit of slop from the axles but tolerable.

[doesgo]

Thanks man. I broke one this weekend and would like to prevent that in the future.

[buzzsaw46]

Here is where I got mine $20 for bearing C-hubs I can deal with;) http://www.asiatees.com/index.php

[buzzsaw46]

Any one here interested in a set of Masher 2K tires on black HPI super star rims? Drop me a PM!

[Jetskiboy77]

I finally ran my truck today for like the first time in 7 months. It felt so great. Even after all that time sitting on my shelf it started right up and ran perfect for the half a tank I had it out for. Im going to try and get a video of it soon. Tomorrow im going to the hobby shop and then the track to chase after the 1/8 and 1/10 on roads. A .21 NMT is so different from my dads Honda. :)

[slowmt]

hello all. I have an mt. recently i bought an os .18 cvrx. i bouhgt all the diff and reliability parts needed for the truck. my question is this, what would be better single speed or 2 speed. What speed could be hit with each? what gearing do yall use and what do you this is optimal. I do a little of road with the majority on the road. THanks yall!

[buzzsaw46]

Welcome Slowmt!!

I'm having great luck with a 15T cb and 47T spur with my Trac-ta-gator and the stock dirt hawgs. I haven't tried my two speed yet but will start out with 17/22cb and 52/47spurs, the stock two speed gears are 11/14 and 52/49 way to low for the .18 I hope the 17/52 first gear isn't too much but I dont think it will be a problem. Man when it hits second it's going to be flying. I figure with my current setup I must be into the 50MPH range(just guessing).

[slowmt]

Thank you for the rteply buzzsaw! So with the OS 18 cvr engine how did you wmount it? what mounst did you use? i am going ot use teh rs4 3 mounts i got here. Also anything that i should be getting for the mt before getting the engine running? THanks dude!

[buzzsaw46]

Thank you for the rteply buzzsaw! So with the OS 18 cvr engine how did you wmount it? what mounst did you use? i am going ot use teh rs4 3 mounts i got here. Also anything that i should be getting for the mt before getting the engine running? THanks dude!

I used the HPI hardened alloy mounts spendy @ around $45 but the RS4 3 mounts will work fine. Like I said I had to go to a much higher gear ratio so you might want to pick up a 15t clutch bell and possibly a 49t or 47t spur gear.

I dont have much fuel through the truck yet with the .18 so drive train wise I dont know how it will hold up but so far so good. I do have the HD ring and pinion in the diffs and the center rear HPI universal. I would recomend the HD gears for sure, but quite honestly the drive shafts should probably be upgraded to MT2 specs. Oh ya get a heay duty servo saver!! At the speeds these things go with the .18 you need a bit more stiffness when driving off road. I would also get a good metal gear servo with at least 80oz/in torque.

Good luck and let us know how it goes!!

[slowmt]

what manifold and muffler did you use for the os .18 buzzsaw46?

[buzzsaw46]

Im using a HSNJ Big tube header and an Ofna .21 size pipe. http://www.hobbyshopnj.com/header.html for the header and I'm not exactly sure what the pipe is it came with an Ofna buggy and their are no numbers on it but the shape is close to the 053.

[Jetskiboy77]

How do you find the final drive ratio of a NMT?

[doesgo]

(Spur teeth divided by clutch bell teeth) x (ring gear teeth divided by pinion gear teeth) = final drive ratio

Typical setup: (52/12) x (38/13) = 4.333 x 2.92 = 12.67:1 That means the engine spins 12.67 times for every one axle rotation.

Taking it further, take your engine's max rpm at top vehicle speed, divide by the final drive ratio, then multiply that by your tire's circumference to get the distance traveled in one minute which you can then manipulate into miles per hour. This ignores tire growth and counts on exact knowledge of your engine's max rpm, of course.

So if you have the above final drive ratio, a 40,000 rpm Fantom .15 and Dirt Hawgs, the tire circumference is 12.56". 40,000 / 12.67 x 12.56 = 39,653 inches per minute of vehicle travel. Multiply that figure by 60 (to convert minutes to hours) and then divide by 63,360 (inches in a mile) and you end up with speed in miles per hour, which would be 37.55.

[C.J.OO]

Thats Really Well explained Doesgo...
Nice one..;)

[josh222]

HPI USA hasthe mt racer for 185bucks, wish i had the money :(

[buzzsaw46]

HPI USA hasthe mt racer for 185bucks, wish i had the money :(

I saw that also great price for that kit.

[Jetskiboy77]

Thanks for the equation doesgo, I was asking about the Final Drive Ratio so I could do the top speed equation.

Another question:
How scratched is everyones chassis?

[Jetskiboy77]

So with that equation my NMT goes 55 MPH. Thats not too shabby. Seems pretty accurate too. Thanks for the help.

[MT2 owns you]

my OLD chassis was pretty scratched up. ill take a pic of the remains if you want...i just realized ive been playing with a zip tie in my mouth that was sitting in a small contain that yu might find cool whip in and probabaly used that container for cleaning my engine..with nitro fuel...welll..its probably clean now..the zip tie, not teh container...soo..back to what i was doing....it tastes kinda weird....

oh! i tried making clipless hinge pins. i used a nail incase i messed up..it works amazingly! i can use nails too! soo...$20 for clipful hinge pin set<nails and a dremmel..free..dad has a dremel from like 1995 and the nails are alrady in my house....damn...im amazed...just wanted to share that...

[PCC]

So with that equation my NMT goes 55 MPH. Thats not too shabby. Seems pretty accurate too. Thanks for the help.
Not too many engines can reach their advertised maximum RPM, especially under load.

Also, at high speeds, the tires balloon and this changes the tire diameter, not to mention the fact that at speed the tires actually slip on the pavement.

I'd guess that your NMT is really doing more like 45MPH but without a Venom Speed Meter or radar gun you will never really know.

[buzzsaw46]

Hey guys I tried an 18t clutch bell today with my 47t spur and WOW is it fast and it still has very good low end I was running kind of rich only hit 220f so there is more speed in it yet I might not have found the gear limit yet!!!

[Tim'sLosi]

I saw that also great price for that kit.

Thanks for the info guys...I got mine! Transfer the hop-ups from my old NMT and it will be a great truck!

[Jetskiboy77]

Not too many engines can reach their advertised maximum RPM, especially under load.

Also, at high speeds, the tires balloon and this changes the tire diameter, not to mention the fact that at speed the tires actually slip on the pavement.

I'd guess that your NMT is really doing more like 45MPH but without a Venom Speed Meter or radar gun you will never really know.


I have a .21 in my NMT, so it definitly has the power to do more than 45mph. And the accleration is ridiculous, which is really what im more interested in.

[PCC]

Which engine are you running?

My brother and I have found that even some respected names in the engine business release numbers that cannot be reached under load. Names like Novarossi, RB Concepts, JP Racing, etc. We put Venom Speedmeters onto identical XB8s and managed to calculate the RPMs from the numbers obtained (the VSM is more accurate as a way to figure RPMs than actual speed for the reasons I listed in my last post).

[doesgo]

I agree, PCC. I mean no offense to anyone, but I think most drivers' estimates of vehicle speed and jumping height are unintentionally exaggerated, but unless they jump over something of a known height or get their vehicle radared, there's simply no proof one way or the other.

[slowmt]

OK so i got my .18 cv-rx engine on the mt. gonna start her up tomorrow and got a few quick ????'s. I have all teh parts for the diff upgrades. Just wondering will teh stock diffs hold up at all for a little while? Also what manifold and pipe are yall using? I put on an hpi 18ss mani and pipe for the time being. Last one, what combo cb/spur do yall use and what do you like dislike about the setup? Mine is stock right now. Thank you very much for your time.

[doesgo]

The stock diffs will hold up if they're properly shimmed, slowmt. I've got stock diffs in my NMT (but with the on-road machined gears in the rear only, stock up front) and have had no problems at all, and I've run a .15CV-R, Epic .18, GS .21, and OS .21. Everything is still in great shape!

For a small-block, the hot exhaust setup (pardon the pun) seems to be the New Jersey Big Tube Header and the Associated Factory Team RC10GT pipe.

Spur-wise, you definitely should run a slipper clutch. The best setup, in my opinion, is the MT2 slipper assembly. It's cheap (under $15) and easy to install, and it uses Savage spur gears which are plenty tough and normally easy to obtain. You also get three different gears from HPI to choose from, the 47-tooth, 49-tooth, and 52-tooth, with more available from the aftermarket, I believe.

Or if you were just asking about the spur/slipper gear ratio, I think buzzsaw could best answer that question since he's got a lot of experience with his 18CV-R NMT.

[Jetskiboy77]

Which engine are you running?

My brother and I have found that even some respected names in the engine business release numbers that cannot be reached under load. Names like Novarossi, RB Concepts, JP Racing, etc. We put Venom Speedmeters onto identical XB8s and managed to calculate the RPMs from the numbers obtained (the VSM is more accurate as a way to figure RPMs than actual speed for the reasons I listed in my last post).


Im not debating the RPMs, I know most companies dont come close at all to the claimed specs. I have a .21 Hyper from Ofna, a two speed, and a cvec pipe. My truck is as fast, if not faster than my tourer, and when I go to the track with it ill see how it goes against other tourers and 1/8s. I have been very interested in getting a Venom Speedometer, but I havent gotten around to it and the price was more than I was willing to spend. How much is it now? And how did you manage to caculate the RPMs from it? Im not trying to argue because its stupid to argue, but im pretty sure its more than 45mph. Also I dont really care about the top speed, because its almost usless if you dont have the space, so my truck is geared more towards accleration and is amazingly quick in that department. Please post the equation that you used for the RPMs, thanks in advanced.

[doesgo]

What bell/spur gearsets do you have, Jetski? I'd bet yours does over 45mph as well, with common gearing. Supposedly the MT2 18SS does nearly 45mph stock, you should certainly eclipse that truck.

As for the equation, do you want to use a known vehicle speed to calculate engine rpm?

[Jetskiboy77]

First is 13/49 and second is 18/44. And yes can you please tell me the equation to get the RPM using a known speed.

Also, if I get these gears, can I only use the 36 tooth gear with my HD 13 tooth gear or will it not mesh right.

HPI Differental Gears (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=86329&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go)

[MT2 owns you]

i just got a CVR-X as well so buzzsaw-i have a question for you..if anybody else knows the answer please, answer away. anyway. i got everything on it, and had to use the spacers. i have the mt218ss stuff that goes onto the shaft except the flywheel which is the hpi PS lightened one. when i put it on it seemed not quite right. the distance between the bearings and such in the crankcase (right name?) to teh flywheel is about 2 or 3 mm. i dont think i can get it on any farther. what did i do wrong, IF i did anything wrong? if its right, then i think i have a problem. the clutch bell and spur........the "wall" of the CB hits the spur. not much, but enouguh to make it kinda tight when you turn it by hand. to fix this i though i could move the washer the goes between the bearing in the CB and clutch nut. or will the CB then hit the "wall" of the flywheel? thanks.

ohyea, one more thing. is it ok to pull the pullstart before break in?

[MT2 owns you]

anyone? anyone at all? i would REALLY apreciate ANY help. thanks in advance!

[slowmt]

Well i got the 18 cvrx on and broken in. Oh my god is this engine absolutley sick. With the stock gears and diffs it would just obliterate all 4 tires on take off. So far teh only problem that i have run into is the rear axel split in half so now it is only front drive. Sucks cause no lhs carry hpi parts. Anyone know of any heavy duty axels or should i just get a stock of these things? Doesgo, so the mt2 slipper would be a direct replacement? would it work with a 2 speed too? Thanks man!

[doesgo]

Jetski: to get from speed to rpm takes some work. You need to know your tire circumference at speed, diff gear ratio, and spur/bell ratio.

Tire circumference is 2 x pi x radius. Dirt Hawgs (with no ballooning) have a 4" diameter which is a 2" radius, so 2 x pi x radius = 2 x 3.14159 x 2 = 12.566.

Diff gear ratio is the ring gear tooth count divided by the pinion gear tooth count, which for most (all?) NMTs is 38:13 which divides out to 2.923.

Spur/bell ratio is simply the tooth count on your spur divided by the tooth count on your clutch bell. If you're running a 15-tooth bell and a 52-tooth spur, that's 52/15 = 3.467.

Okay, the next step is to calculate axle rpm based on your measured vehicle speed. The equation is: axle rpm = speed x 1056 x tire circumference.

Assuming Dirt Hawgs with no ballooning and a measured velocity of 45 mph, you get 45 x 1056 / 12.566 = 3781.6 axle rpm. (1056 is a constant that's in the equation to convert from mph to inches (to relate to circumference) and minutes)

Finally, the equation to get from axle rpm to engine rpm is:
engine rpm = axle rpm x diff ratio x spur/bell ratio

So based on the information and assumptions we've gathered above, we can plug in the numbers so it's: engine rpm = 3781.6 x 2.923 x 3.467 which calculates to 38,322.9 rpm with non-ballooning Dirt Hawgs running at 45 mph with stock diffs, a 15-tooth bell, 52-tooth spur, and no tire or clutch slippage.

Simple, no? :)



slowmt: The MT2 slipper is a direct replacement for the NMT slipper (other than the different style set screws), but it doesn't work with a 2-speed.

As for the driveshafts, MIP makes (or used to make) CVDs for the NMT, but I'm not exactly sure how much better they were than stock. The best thing I've found so far is to convert to MT2 axle stubs, outdrives, and driveshafts. Not terribly cheap, but so far it's been quite effective for me. If you do it piece by piece, do the rears first, then the fronts, then the centers. Some people will tell you to run Rush diff outdrives because they're tougher and longer. I never had any luck with them, I broke several.



mt2ownsyou: With the various engine in my NMT I've seen rather large gaps between the crank bearing and flywheel housing and also virtually no gap. Neither is inherently "wrong." Do the teeth on the clutch bell go all the way back to the face of the bell itself? If so, and you're running a plastic spur, you could probably run it as is and the spur will "self-clearance" over time, meaning it will just wear away as necessary. I've had to do this on my Savage a few times. The more proper way to do it would be to do as you suggested (remove the washer/shim/spacer between the nut and bearing) and see if the bell is still not riding against the flywheel. If that's the case, great! If removing that shim causes the bell to rub the flywheel, see if you have a thinner shim that might work. If not, I'd go back to the self-clearancing thing.

Do you have any shims installed between the flywheel collet and crank bearing?

I'd refrain from turning the engine over any more than necessary until you're ready to break it in. One rotation certainly isn't going to kill the engine, but the less you do the better. Oh, and don't forget after each segment of break-in (when you're letting the engine cool down), turn the engine over so the piston is at the bottom of its stroke while the engine cools. That'll help prolong the life and power of your engine. Actually do this forever, not just during break-in.

[slowmt]

Thank you doesgo!

[buzzsaw46]

Hey guys, for gears on the .18 CV-RX I was using a 15/47 setup but I just switched to 18/47, I only have one tank through with the 18/47 setup but it seems to be ok. I still want to run it some more on this setup before I say go for it, I'm just trying to find out what the limits are for first gear right now.

[buzzsaw46]

Oh ya my drive train is almost stock I have the HD ring and pinion in both diffs and the rear HPI universal but thats it no slipper even:rolleyes: I think I will start getting MT2 parts though as I wear out/break the stuff I have now. That new high ratio HD final gear set does look tempting.

[MT2 owns you]

doesgo-THANK YOU! welll, i got the savage 15t bell and its a solid one peice (new to me) and it has a smal gap between the gear part and the bell part. it doesnt rub much at all andi CAN turn it..but it does rub so i wasnt sure. i tink il try the self wear down thing you mentioned and i had thought of doing that but again, i didnt know if i should. i know a little more than next to nothing about rc engines/gear mesh and all that. so, il go recheck exactly how bad the mesh is and go from there. oh yea...like 10 turn overs is too much?? it did accidently turn over when i was checking the mesh and when i was putting on the clutch (im glad clutches dont need regular matinence)...well, i guess this is why they make replacement sleeves. oh, without taking the muffler off, is there a way to tel where BDC is? i have an idea of how to tell, but its not very acurate since you have to add in the time it takes to get the piston tot he bottom after the"pop" right? yea, actually two more things. is trinirt fuel any good? if not what do you reccomend. no i dont race, just a fuel to get the engine running fairly decently. if trinity is good, whats the best of their stuff? (i use 20%) thanks in advance!

well, i got the bell on and it works dandy, but the bell has some slight imperfections..the gear i think should fix it self though during break in. so, i have to put the clutch on. any tips? i can do it, its just really hard and time consuming.

[buzzsaw46]

Hey guys whats the part # for the o-rings to seal the diffs?

[slowmt]

Anyone know what gears and cb combo they 2 speed kit come with?

[buzzsaw46]

The two speed for the MT comes with a 11/14clutch bell and 52/49 spurs.

[Jetskiboy77]

^ Those are the exact gears the 2 speed comes with.

Does anyone know of any foam tires for the NMT? I just got back from the track with 1/10 and 1/8 scales and my truck was doing really good on the straight except for the turn after it, sometimes it would just spin out. I saw foams for a buggy (anyone of a link? I saw it in person today) so I could get WPR buggy adapters but that is getting kinda expensive. Anyone know of any foams?

[slowmt]

So wheen yall are changing out your gears are you just using savage spurs? WHat cb do you use? What about for the 2 speeds? I looked and all i could finde was teh 49 and 52 ones. Thank you!!

[Jetskiboy77]

Does anyone remember that 3 speed NMT? Does anyone have the info on it?

[slowmt]

doesgo, i read on another forum that you have a 125cc fuel tank on your mt. Think you could tell me how you did it and what the part number is? Thanks man!!

[doesgo]

Indeed I do, it's the tank off an OFNA LX Pro buggy, OFNA #30280. Here are some shots, e-mail me at doesgo@slapmafro.com if you want more pics. The front mount is in the stock location, the rear mount just uses a typical radio tray or fuel tank post with the appropriate screws. The only mod I had to do to the truck (other than drill a hole in the chassis for the mount) was cut off that ear of the upper deck near the rear of the tank since it got in the way.

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank4.jpg

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank5.jpg

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank6.jpg

[doesgo]

So wheen yall are changing out your gears are you just using savage spurs? WHat cb do you use? What about for the 2 speeds? I looked and all i could finde was teh 49 and 52 ones. Thank you!!

The MT2 single-speed slipper setup uses Savage spur gears. That's what I've got in my NMT so yes, it's just a matter of selecting any of the three Savage spurs available.

Can't tell you anything about the 2-speed, though.

[doesgo]

doesgo-THANK YOU! welll, i got the savage 15t bell and its a solid one peice (new to me) and it has a smal gap between the gear part and the bell part. it doesnt rub much at all andi CAN turn it..but it does rub so i wasnt sure. i tink il try the self wear down thing you mentioned and i had thought of doing that but again, i didnt know if i should. i know a little more than next to nothing about rc engines/gear mesh and all that. so, il go recheck exactly how bad the mesh is and go from there. oh yea...like 10 turn overs is too much?? it did accidently turn over when i was checking the mesh and when i was putting on the clutch (im glad clutches dont need regular matinence)...well, i guess this is why they make replacement sleeves. oh, without taking the muffler off, is there a way to tel where BDC is? i have an idea of how to tell, but its not very acurate since you have to add in the time it takes to get the piston tot he bottom after the"pop" right? yea, actually two more things. is trinirt fuel any good? if not what do you reccomend. no i dont race, just a fuel to get the engine running fairly decently. if trinity is good, whats the best of their stuff? (i use 20%) thanks in advance!

well, i got the bell on and it works dandy, but the bell has some slight imperfections..the gear i think should fix it self though during break in. so, i have to put the clutch on. any tips? i can do it, its just really hard and time consuming.

Turning the engine over 10 times with the pullstart won't kill the engine, I was just trying to impress that you should minimize it as much as possible. Sometimes it takes a bunch of pulls just to get it started the first time, little can be done about that.

As for putting the piston at bottom-dead-center, just get it past the pinch and turn it a little more. It doesn't have to be at exactly the bottom, just not right at or near the top.

I run Trinity Monster Horsepower 20% fuel in everything I run, so I guess to me it's good fuel. :)

Tips for installing the clutch? What kind of clutch is it?

[MT2 owns you]

oh, ok. im fine then. yea, i was edgine toward the trinity stuff, but my lhs only carries blue thunder (i hate that stuff) and traxxas top fuel. i guess ill be ordering online then wont i? oh, i got the clutch on. it was easier than i thought it would be. i guess clutch springs can be broken in. it was still hard though. oh, it was the stock hpi 2 shoe clutch. well, thanks for your help! my mt2 should be good for a while, now i have a rally car to finish converting.

jetskiboy-YEA! i DO remember that 3 spd mt! you know those forums "everything RC"? i posted a thread about it on there. let me think..it was something like "getphp.com/forums.asp?=123.everythingrc.htm(l)" something along those lines. if the ebay link is still good thats all you need to know. that is of course if thats the one your talking about.

[buzzsaw46]

I broke it!!! LOL I was playing on a big pile of gravel about 5' high and was tuning the engine up a bit at the same time any way I was jumping off the first peak over a gulley and landing near the other peak in the pile well I was running about 230F so I tweaked the high speed another 1/8 and went for a big air jump I was still pinching off trigger on the way up the pile and lifted the front wheels just before it launched (my first back flip) almost landed it on the back side of the jump but came in a bit nose down and cart wheeled breaking an outdrive.

Man that 18 is strong. Temps are still under 250F with 18/47 gears and as hard as room will allow. Let my buddy drive it today and all he could say is "Wow thats fast!!"

[Jetskiboy77]

oh, ok. im fine then. yea, i was edgine toward the trinity stuff, but my lhs only carries blue thunder (i hate that stuff) and traxxas top fuel. i guess ill be ordering online then wont i? oh, i got the clutch on. it was easier than i thought it would be. i guess clutch springs can be broken in. it was still hard though. oh, it was the stock hpi 2 shoe clutch. well, thanks for your help! my mt2 should be good for a while, now i have a rally car to finish converting.

jetskiboy-YEA! i DO remember that 3 spd mt! you know those forums "everything RC"? i posted a thread about it on there. let me think..it was something like "getphp.com/forums.asp?=123.everythingrc.htm(l)" something along those lines. if the ebay link is still good thats all you need to know. that is of course if thats the one your talking about.


Thats exactly what I was talking about! Ill check into it and thanks for the help.

[MT2 owns you]

do you remember the link? i wanna check it out too, copy and paste, make one for myself. :) ill search for the link myself. ill tell you if i find it.

i found it! http://www.getphpbb.com/phpbb/index.php?mforum=everythingrc thats the forum. ill get the link to the thread. http://www.getphpbb.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=41&mforum=everythingrc there ya go! i hop the link works. the ebay link that is.\

no...it's not :mad: ..damn...that sucks..but..oh well...

[slowmt]

will the mt2 18ss front and rear universal dogbones work on the mt?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=86301&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=86302&FVPROFIL=++

It says that it will not work on the mt but they say that on a lot of things.

[slowmt]

[QUOTE=doesgo]Indeed I do, it's the tank off an OFNA LX Pro buggy, OFNA #30280. Here are some shots, e-mail me at doesgo@slapmafro.com if you want more pics. The front mount is in the stock location, the rear mount just uses a typical radio tray or fuel tank post with the appropriate screws. The only mod I had to do to the truck (other than drill a hole in the chassis for the mount) was cut off that ear of the upper deck near the rear of the tank since it got in the way.

QUOTE]
Awesome man. Thanks for the pics. Looks like i am ordering that tank tomorrow!

On a side note my mt is going to be primarily a road truck. What do yall recomend for that? 2 speed or single speed? Going to order one or the other tomorrow and want to be sure. Thank you everyone. Wish i know about this forum a while ago.

[doesgo]

The MT2 universals won't work because the MT2 stuff is larger in diameter, they won't fit inside the diff outdrives. If you upgrade to MT2 outdrives I believe they'd work, however. I've upgraded to MT2 standard dogbones in the rear of my NMT and once I had the MT2 outdrives and axle stubs installed the MT2 dogbones worked great.

For an on-road car it seems the 2-speed would be the way to go, although from what I understand the HPI 2-speed can't be used in the dirt at all thanks to an exposed one-way bearing that, if it gets dirty, will cease to function properly. I'm not sure if Wolfpack Radicals 2-speed is better for dirt or not.

[slowmt]

Anyone have any experience with this setup?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5975774915&rd=1&tc=photo

I am using an HPI teflon clutch now, is there anyone better that i should look at? I see that there seems to be a lot of aluminum clutches out there, are they any good? Thanks again. I know i ask a lot of questions. I am a noob sorry

[doesgo]

I had a lot of good experience with the HPI racing clutch, it's a circular two-shoe clutch that's tuneable for your truck's characteristics. I've never used the Teflon clutch in an NMT, though.

I've run Mugen aluminum clutches in big-blocks (I've got several right now running aluminum clutches, actually) and they work well. They tend to mushroom as they age which requires maintenance, but that's no big deal. There's not a huge operational difference between a good aluminum clutch and a good composite clutch that I've noticed, however.

Oh, and don't be sorry for asking questions, we all have to start somewhere! That's why these boards exist. :)

[buzzsaw46]

There are a few guys using the RD-logics pipes on T-maxxes with O.S. 18's and having good luck with them. I use an MIP clutch in the second hole and like it quite a bit, but would like to hear other opinions also!

I was just looking around at tower to see what an MT2 drive line would run me, ouch $50 just for diff out upgrade F/R $75 if you go with CVD's

[buzzsaw46]

Hey did you guys see the new HD final gearset for the MT2 18SS http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJYM2&P=Z about $10 chaeper than the older HD set!!

[Jetskiboy77]

Well I finally got some updated pics of my truck:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-1/938781/Untitled.jpg


Well it doesnt seem to want to work. Ive had bad problems with posting pictures here lately.

[Jetskiboy77]

Im going to try this one more time and if this doesnt work then im going to get someone to post them for me.