Nitro MT and MT Racer Forum V2.0

[Jetskiboy77]

Yes it worked! Stupid AOL was the problem I think because it worked when I used IE which I know I should have been using.

[Jetskiboy77]

Body Pic:

[Jetskiboy77]

Another Shot, Ill take/post more if anyone wants them.

[buzzsaw46]

Nice looking truck!!! Have you had it on a scale?

[MT2 owns you]

damn! it looks better than before! whered you get the foams?...they are foams right? o, what throttle return spring is that? it looks like one. in other words....got a parts list?

[buzzsaw46]

Ya I would love a set of foams!!! Give us some details man!!!

[thedarkness]

Their jaco foams I used to have a set on my nitro mt(sold it a while ago)
http://www3.telus.net/rcstuff/nitromt.jpg

[buzzsaw46]

Which car/truck are they for? How was that Ritter pipe? Nice looking truck you had.

[Jetskiboy77]

Buzzsaw46- Thanks. I had it on a scale and it was 6.5 pounds but that was done by weighing myself and then weighing myself holding the truck and it was that much more. Im not going to put my trust in that number because its not a reliable method of weighing it. Thedarkness is right they are from Jaco. The foams are for the RC10GT I believe, but if you get two sets of rear tires you can use them on the NMT like I did. The link for Tower is here- Foam Tires (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCME3&P=ML)

MT2 owns you- Thanks I did some upgrading since last time. That is a throttle return spring. I used an extra rear exhaust manifold spring I had laying around and it works perfectly. Doesnt bind the servo and pulls the arm right back when needed. Do you want a full parts list or just certain ones? Whatever you want I will gladly tell you. Also im going to get you a better pic of the spring I just need to resize it so give me a few minutes

Im so close to being done upgrading it. Im gonna do dual metal brakes (only single is in there) and CVDs and probably a Venom Speed Gauge. And a new body that will be painted much beter, and I think thats pretty much it.

[buzzsaw46]

Wow, I think your scale is off, it cant be 2lbs heavier than mine, can it? Oh ya I was going to ask about the roll/grab bar also where is that from? Oooo and that wolf pack top brace, how is it bling or functional? Switch cover from where??? HEHEHEHE the more I look the more I see that I need:D

[Jetskiboy77]

Heres a decent pic of the spring, its not as good as I thought but ill just take a better one with my friends camrea tomorrow if possible.



I havent ran the truck with the foams or the brace yet. I went to the onroad track today only to see that it had been turned into a car show and everyone that races went to Jersey, and I was not going to Jersey, so we'll see next week. The roll bar is from New Era Models. The pictue is decieving, it shows the 3 Point brace even tho it really looks like the on in my pictures. Heres the Handle (http://www.neweramodels.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?session_id=&part_id=50) Heres the link to the Switch cover (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBZT7&P=7) Anything else just keep asking.

[Tim'sLosi]

Does anyone here have the 12RSS HPI engine in a truck?? I have a 15SS and a 12RSS and am trying to decide which to use in my new Racer MT. Thanks for the input.

Tim

[Jetskiboy77]

I would put the .15SS in the NMT Racer. The .12 was a great engine that I loved a lot, but it wont be torquey enough for a truck.

[Tim'sLosi]

Thanks...Do you think it would be a good engine for a Super Nitro Rally or should I stick it back in my built but never ran RS4 Pro 3 and wait till I get around to running it?

[Jetskiboy77]

RS4 Pro 3? Or do you mean RS4 3 Type SS? Pro 3 is the electric HPI car. I would leave it in the RS4 3 because it did a good job in there IMO. Im thinking about rebuilding it just to have as a spare engine because I liked it a lot, even though its not the strongest engine it ran very well for me and pulled some nice RPMs.

[Tim'sLosi]

Sorry...I didn't look at the box. Yep, it's a Type SS Acura. Alright...to the box it goes!Thanks again,
Tim

[Jetskiboy77]

I have a question, because no matter how many times I order the purple linkage it comes with blue or red stopper pieces, when all I want are the purple ones. Does anyone know where to get just the "Four anodized purple lock collars" as Tower would call them? Im gonna see if they are in my LHS tomorrow but still curious. Theyre in this pic:

[MT2 owns you]

I have a question, because no matter how many times I order the purple linkage it comes with blue or red stopper pieces, when all I want are the purple ones. Does anyone know where to get just the "Four anodized purple lock collars" as Tower would call them? Im gonna see if they are in my LHS tomorrow but still curious. Theyre in this pic:
sorry, i dont know the answer, but who makes that (the stuff in the picture)? oh, and i DO have a few more questions...how much for your NMT? :D :p but seiously now, would you know what stuff from the NMT fits the NMT2? i need steering knuckles, c hubs, rear carriers, center carrier, bulkheads, bumper (kinda), steering assembly, engine mounts, 4mm chassis, and if i get the aluminum top steering plate, can i get the radio tray?? yea, kinda long question but i really want some aluminum...new era is an option but im a little hesitant to buy from them...i need to learn more about them first...oh, what are the companies that make the aluminum on your truck, not including roll bar, im making my own :D

oh yea, are the a arms on the nmt the same lenght as the ones on the nmt2?
thanks.

[Tim'sLosi]

I have two packs of OFNA 10725 linkage that are all purple, including the collars.

[Jetskiboy77]

I have two packs of OFNA 10725 linkage that are all purple, including the collars.

I guess im just unlucky then, I order that exact product probably 3-4 times and its never purple collars. :( Well ill get them eventually.

MT2- The Linkage (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHWP2&P=7) is from Duratrax. Im unsure about which suspension parts from the NMT fit the NMT2, but im pretty sure that the center gear carrier, diff cases, the part under the diff case, and the steering assembly will fit on the NMT2. The NMT2 uses a somewhat different suspension so some of the parts probably wont fit. The upperdecks are different but I dont know about the chassis. There are titanium bumpers that I ordered but ran out of stock so now im going to wait for more to be made. My screename is SecaM3 and if you want to chat more but dont want to do it on here IM me anytime.

[slowmt]

bad a$$ truck man!! WEll i bought the MT racer from hpi for dirt cheap and want to go crazy on it. What engine do yall think would be the best for dirt play?

[MT2 owns you]

i think OS .18 cvrx. 100$ pullstart, ive heard its powerful and reliable, i guess ill find out when i break mine in :D

[Jetskiboy77]

I agree with MT2. Im thinking about picking up an OS. 18 CVR or rebuilding my OS .12 CVX to have a spare engine for my spare truck.

[MT2 owns you]

jetskiboy-just curios but without the engine, how much would you sell your spare stock nmt for?

[Jetskiboy77]

lol well currently there is no engine in it. But its not a completly stock spare NMT. I had to get some hop ups (of course) for it while I was rebuilding it. I put in a NMT2 slipper clutch, racing clutch, titanium turnbuckles, RPM ends, aluminum steering with ball bearings installed, bearings installed into the clutch bell too. As for the exact price im not too sure, id have to check eBay to get a rough estimate. Why do you ask? Also I was wondering, especially since you bring up price, if I was to sell my aluminum .21 NMT, how much do you guys think I could get for it if I sold it exactly as pictured above with my Airtronics MX-3 Radio gear?

[MT2 owns you]

i dont know much about that stuff but id say 400...then id say WHY!??!! that thing is so nice!! seriously..why would you want to sell it? and then id say if your gonna sell it cheap..like 150$...give it to me...and then id remeber that my paresnt are the kind of people that do not trust people you meet onthe internet AT ALL..and then id say i wish i could have it but i cant. oh well..

oohh...IF you were to sell it..but that implies you want to...but yea..i dont think you should..and i ask becuase i want a nmt, but i already got 2 rc's about to get a third, and a fourth..its kinda overkill...acutally..2 i sover kill..i mean 3...acutally..i got 2.5 mt2's..i got the 18ss cuz it be cheaper for me to buy that instea of all the upgrades...and i want eh nmt cuz theres not enough aftermarket stuff for the mt2 if you ask me...yea..the mt2 is nice and im not selling...but something i can upgrade whenever i need/want would be nice to have...

[Jetskiboy77]

I was just wondering, I would never ever EVER sell that truck. Unless the price was absoulty amazing, which I doubt I wold ever get. Basacially I woild never sell that one, especially since I put $1000+ easily into that truck and wouldnt get anywhere near that back probably.

[MT2 owns you]

oh good...man..yea..that why i wouldnt if i were you..itd be around the equivalent of giving it away..400<1200 ya know..but yea..hopefull im buying my friends mostly aluminum rs4..i told you abot it in the mt2 forum a while ago..like on page 2 or 3..well..he doesnt like it..and i do..and its cheap compared to buying everything..and he wants about 250 for it...and i HAVE 250 (about 3 times that acutally)...oh..another somewhat off topic question..well..you got the mx3..just like i have..yep..i got an mx3 for my birthday along with all thtat other good stuff..i tell ya..good grades get rewarded..i feel like a theft actually..anyway..if you remeber your AM radio..is the FM antenna shorter than the AM? when i put mine in i noticed the antenna is about 3 inches shorter thant he AM radio...is this right? thanks. (excuse my typing..its konda pff today. kinda* off* (<i lef those as examples))

[buzzsaw46]

Jetski, I would guess your truck would bring about $250-300 going by what I have been seeing on ebay lately. The NMT just isnt very popular so they dont sell well, even MT2's go pretty cheap.

[paulicat]

Im thinking of getting an NMT to get my feet wet in nitro (done electric for years).
I have a couple of questions after reading all 62 pages of this thread!!
1: Main problem with these trucks seems to be the spur gear. Does anyone know if the NMT2 spur will fit?
2: In your humble opinions, is the mt a good truck to get your feet wet with nitro? Are parts still pretty available?
3: How much would you guys pay for a used, stock, complete (w/electronics) RTR NMT that is in reasonable/average condition?
Thanks for any input/advice you guys might have!

[slowmt]

My mt was my first nitro truck and it is awesome. Very simple yet very good. I think that you will love it. There is a bunch of parts out there for it too.

[paulicat]

Awesome! Thanks for the input slowmt!
Anyone else care to share their thoughts on the other questions??

[doesgo]

1) Yes, the MT2 slipper/spur assembly will fit directly (with the addition of some cheap HPI set screws) into the NMT, which is a GREAT upgrade!
2) Yes, i believe it is. It's not as tough as a Savage, but it's much, much easier to work on and learn about, and it doesn't leave as deep a dent as a Savage does when you run into things. :) (it was my first nitro RC as well, I sold it after about five months, then aquired another a few months later because I missed it so much!) Yes, parts are still quite available.
3) If it's still got the stock .15FE engine, you shouldn't have to pay more than about $100-$150 for it, I don't think, but be prepared, because the the stock .15FE engine isn't very good. The more hop-ups it has, the higher the price goes, naturally.

[Jetskiboy77]

The NMT was also my frist truck and I learnt everything I know from it. I also put in a NMT2 slipper clucth and spur gear into my NMT and it fit in fine.

BTW $300 sucks, lol, I would no way ever sell it for that much.

[Jetskiboy77]

Does anyone know where to get sheets of Carbon Fiber that is equal thickness of the shock towers of the NMT2? I want to make an upper deck and shock towers for my mess around truck.

[doesgo]

You can get CF from www.mcmaster.com but it's quite expensive and it's very difficult to cut. The carbon eats up cutting bits like crazy, from what I understand.

[Jetskiboy77]

Thanks Doesgo. Im gonna see if my dads friend can find it anywhere and if not then maybe ill order it or just buy the NMT2 CF shock towers, or maybe just leave it stock. Well see.

[MT2 owns you]

why not leave it stock? just strengthen them up a bit with a brace or two. cheap and it works. ive found that arm braces work as rs4 3 front towerbraces on the lower setting. they fit perfect. btw, i tried to make an aluminum upper deck out of my old chassis..seems do-able, but not easy

[paulicat]

Thanks a lot for the info guys! Its apparantly a totally stock truck, so I imagine it would still have the .15FE engine, which (I would hope) would be good enough for me to learn on...
Has anyone here done the conversion to SNR? The truck doesnt have a body, and since I'll have to replace it and I've always had a soft spot for the SNR...dont ask why, I dont know, I just do!
If so, I was wondering about cost.
Again, thanks for all the input guys, its very much appreciated!!

[doesgo]

I just switched the front end of my NMT over to mostly MT2 stuff with good success, I'm happy to say. I put the RS4 machined on-road gears in the diff (shimmed), installed MT2 outdrives, sealed the diff after filling with 30,000 diff lube, installed the MT2 diff holder thingy, MT2 shock tower, MT2 bumper brace, MT2 bumper, MT2 body post, MT2 axle stubs, and MT2 dogbones. The only things left in the actual driveline that's original NMT are the center dogbones, "tranny" cups, and diff input cups.

I had to make a different upper shock mount because my GS Storm 1/8 buggy shocks were too long for the stock MT2 upper mount, so I just cut a piece out of my bent Losi LST chassis plate, drilled the appropriate holes, mounted it to the stock upper shock mount location, and drilled holes closer to the center for the upper shock mounts. Now the truck will bottom (barely) on the chassis with Masher 2000s before the shocks reach full compression, yet there's good down travel as well.

Most of all, I'm excited about the thicker dogbones and the MT2 bumper! Hopefully that'll help save my truck when my attempts at triple backflips don't quite come out perfectly. :) Now I just have to figure out a way to get the MT2 front bumper installed on the back, too...

[MT2 owns you]

guess what...i want a snr too. thats the other half of the reason i want the NMT SO BADD!! (well i just got kicked off the 'el internetadora' (my spanish is amazing) so by the time you read this someone may have replied already) to make the conversion you need-bumpers which is the body mount set. cheap like 5 or 10 $. that includes shock towers im pretty sure. you need shocks. for the plastic ones you can prolly get them around 15 $ maybe less, maybe more. you need dogbones. another 10 $ maybe. im pretty sure you dont needs hubs/knuckles/carriers but you do need new a arms. like another 10 or 15 $. wheels. 30 $? OH im pretty sure your gonna need a new spur and clutch bell so thats abother 20 $ altogether? youll spend around $100 MAX those prices are most likely too high since i cant get to tower right now. but for me, im gooing the aluminum route, even if i dont use the aluminum. man, i *want* too many things.

doesgo-i did the mt2 bumper thing on the rear. its easy. shave off the 4 bumps on the bottom and that ridge thing too although i dont know if shaving off the ridge is neccesary. then install the mount like you normally would and put the arms brace where it usually goes. i made that mistake. itll just be on the outside of the mount instead of in that little slot. then cut off however much you need to off of the "bumper brace". the thing that goes inbetween the bumper mount and the actual bumper part. then mount it and find a way to attatch the brace good so that the bumper is sturdy. i used zipties but dont seem to work too well. if you find something better id like to know what it is. if you want pics or have questions just ask, i dont know how much sense my instructions make.

[paulicat]

Lol, I already have a set of the mesh HPI super nitro wheels for my gravel hound...the truck doesnt have a body, and I'm not a fan of the stadium truck look anyways...so I guess I have a bit of a head start on some parts...
Thanks for the info, and if you happen to get started on your SNR conversion before me, keep us updated! I'll do the same as soon as I get started on it.

[MT2 owns you]

you will probably be done your conversion before i even start becuase im converting my 1/10 rgiht now..and im not positive if SNR stuff fits the mt2..if it does, then once im done with my other rally conversion and STILL HAVE MONEY (heheh) yea, ill probably do it, but im not sure. if the 1/10 rally isnt satisfactory i will..it all depends on money and if its neccesary..anyway, do keep us updated. id like to see the final product. are you gonna do stock stuff or upgrade along the way?

[slowmt]

well i got the 2 speed and os .18 in there and it is very fast. Change over the stock pipe to one off of a schumacher menace 21 and that made a world of difference. On the HPI 2 speed, what spurs do you use when you want to change up the ratio's a little?

[paulicat]

This is the list I got from HPI:
Body: Lancer EVO VI - 7551, Suzuki Escudo Pikes Peak - 7552, Impreza - 7553 - 35.99
4475 M Compound Rally Tire (super size) (2 pairs needed) - 9.29 for 1 pair
3030 Super Star Wheel (super size) (2 pairs needed) - 5.79 for 1 pair
A373 Shock Towers / Body Mounts - 7.69
A374 Fixed Links / Body Posts / Shock Parts (2 needed) - 7.69 for 1
A454 Suspension Arms (2 needed) - 4.79 for 1
A460 C-Hubs / Knuckles (2 needed) - 4.79 for 1
A553 Dogbones (2 pairs needed) - 5.29 for 1 pair
72016 Stainless Steel Hinge Pin Set (Super nitro rs4) - 15.69
72225 Steel Turnbuckles - 13.99
================================================== ======
Total - 148.64????
Wow...118.48 considering I have the wheels and tires already...minus another 35.99 considering the truck Im looking at doesnt have a body anyways...82.49 to convert it...not looking as bad as I thought when I first saw that 148.64 number!!
BTW, all prices from towerhobbies...

[Jetskiboy77]

Theres a converison list on the HPIRacing.com website in their forum if you guys want to check it out.

[paulicat]

Yea, thats the list above with prices from TowerHobbies...

[paulicat]

Does anyone know if an O.S .12 cv-x will fit into an NMT??

[doesgo]

Yes it will, but you'll need the HPI engine mounts if you don't already have them. Also, it needs to have a threaded crank.

[paulicat]

Thanks for the info.
I dont have the engine mounts yet, would anyone know the part number for them?
As for the crank, (I'm new to nitro, so bear with me) I assume if the engine would need to be rebuilt, that would be the opportune time to replace the crank with one that is threaded?
Are threaded cranks for this engine readily available?

[doesgo]

Engine Mounts: HPI #A863

In my opinion, it's not worth rebuilding a CV-X engine, especially if you need a new crank. It'll likely cost you more for a new piston, sleeve, and crank to rebuild the thing than it would to just buy a new O.S. .18CV-RX from Tower (around $100). Besides, the CV engines have a nickel-plated sleeve rather than chrome, which makes their lives shorter. The CV engines aren't that powerful, either.

[paulicat]

Oh ok, in that case!
Thanks for your tips...being new to nitro is a little tough, there is sooooooo much to learn compared to electric.

[doesgo]

Lots to learn, but at least it's only about the engine since you already know about the rest of the vehicle!

Before buying an engine, be sure to run it by this message board to get some opinions....if you want. :) Many of us have experience with lots of engines and can help make sure you get one that'll be easy to bolt in and worth the money.

[Jetskiboy77]

Thanks for the info.
I dont have the engine mounts yet, would anyone know the part number for them?
As for the crank, (I'm new to nitro, so bear with me) I assume if the engine would need to be rebuilt, that would be the opportune time to replace the crank with one that is threaded?
Are threaded cranks for this engine readily available?

I use to run this engine in my NMT back in the day. It was a good little engine, not the most powerful, but amazingly reliable. Im probably going to rebuild it too. I had the threaded crank and the engine comes with a threaded crank when you buy it. And if it does need to be rebuilt that would be the oppurtune time to, but I dont think it comes in any version with out a threaded crank, unless its the one for the RC10GT which is too short and wont work.

[paulicat]

Well, its got the standard 15FE right now, and I should be clear, I don't have the truck yet...any day now, just waiting to get some detailed pics from the truck before I buy it.
However, the guy selling it said he had a OS 12 cvx he might be able to throw in...I'll ask him if it has a threaded crank.
Is the stock 15FE worth rebuilding? Its in running order now, but Im asking just in case...
You guys are awesome, thanks a lot for the info!

[doesgo]

"Is the stock 15FE worth rebuilding?"

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[paulicat]

HAHAHAHAHA!!!!
That definately answers my question!!! :D :D :D

[doesgo]

Some people, but very few, seem to like it, but it's low-powered, it's got an ABN sleeve, and only a single-needle carb. I think you can get new ones for around $60. Not worth rebuilding because 1) the price for a new one is low, and 2) even rebuilt (or new) it's just not a very good engine.

[Jetskiboy77]

Doesgo is 100% right. Dont rebuild the Fe, save your money and buy something nice with it. :)

[paulicat]

Awesome guys, thanks again.
So the next logical question is: What is the "perfect" engine for the NMT?
Now, I understand its totally opinion based, but I'm looking for something that people could generally agree on and say "yea, thats about as good a motor as you can have for the NMT".
Judging things like performance, maintanence, ease of installation, and reliability, whats your suggestion?

[doesgo]

O.S. .18CV-R (or CV-RX if you need a pullstart). Very good power, O.S. reliability, O.S. tuneability, O.S. longevity, and it's only around $100!

[MT2 owns you]

OS CVR(X)! i got one in my mt2. all i gotta do is choose a fuel that isnt blue thunder quality (personal experiance...mine sucked..) and break it in. :D

[buzzsaw46]

The 18 is almost too much power I break drive train parts regularly!! I'm almost out of stock NMT spare parts so I have started buying NMT2 bits here and there, Once I have all the parts I'll put them in at one time.

[paulicat]

Bloody prices of stuff in Canada is just ridiculous...if you guys say its 100, its 200 canadian...even though after conversion 100 is like 125 :mad:
How much worse it the OS 12 CV? Cause thats the only one in my price range (109.99 CDN) I'm married :o

[josh222]

Thats why you buy from tower hobbies.. my LHS wants 600Can for a MT2 18SS, from tower it is 400can plus tax :)

[paulicat]

LOL, thats nice eh? Why is it like this? I just don't get it.
Thanks for the tip!

[josh222]

hobby shops have to put a little bit of a charge on stuff to make money so they can pay there bills.. big things like that are always cheaper on internet sites from the states. I guese that kind of sucks when we live in canada but the shipping isn't to bad

[Tim'sLosi]

Awesome guys, thanks again.
So the next logical question is: What is the "perfect" engine for the NMT?
Now, I understand its totally opinion based, but I'm looking for something that people could generally agree on and say "yea, thats about as good a motor as you can have for the NMT".
Judging things like performance, maintanence, ease of installation, and reliability, whats your suggestion?

IMHO an OS 15CVX would be nice. Any OS engine is easy to tune, keeps a tune well, and lasts. All with good, reliable power.

[paulicat]

What about the OS 12 CV? Does anyone have any info/opinion on this "budget" engine?

[Tim'sLosi]

Go here for engine comparisons,

http://www.nitroreview.com/TheDatabase/homeengines.cfm

[buzzsaw46]

The 12cv is going to be weak, the 15CV-R would be nice with a stock drive train I think but it has been discontinued:(

[doesgo]

I ran a .15CV-R in mine for a while and it was pretty good, had a lot of fun with it. But indeed it has been discontinued.

[josh222]

CVR18 would be nice.. If a JetskiBoys MT1 can handle a Hyper 21 withy stock gears this won't blow your diffs

[paulicat]

Awesome, thanks guys, I'm reading the nitro shootout right now...

[slowmt]

what do yall think about the os 18 tz?

[doesgo]

AWESOME engine from everything I've seen and read, but VERY likely to be too powerful for the NMT's driveline.

[slowmt]

well i have all the heavy duty upgrades for my m/t. i have the .18 cvrx in it now and it is great. just want a littel more power.

[Jetskiboy77]

CVR18 would be nice.. If a JetskiBoys MT1 can handle a Hyper 21 withy stock gears this won't blow your diffs

I did have the stock gears/driveline when I first put in the .21 and it held up nicely, but I put in HD gears just for the fun of it anyway.

[buzzsaw46]

Slowmt which header and pipe are you using?? I found some that are very poor on the CV-R and a couple that absolutly rock, so it does make a big differance.

[slowmt]

I am using the stock 18ss header and schumacher menace .21 pipe. The stinger just broke off it so i am definaltly in the market for a new one. Possibley the rd logics one. Just need to find a company that will ship to APO addresses.

[Jetskiboy77]

Hey guys I got pics of my brand new body, check them out and tell me what you think: New NMT Body Pics (http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?p=1778035#post1778035)

[jjmag26]

Hey guy's, I recently purchased a used nmt roller, I added a engine and beefed up the drivetrain a little and this 4-wheel stadium is awesome. I'm used to 2-wheel drive and this is much more fun to drive. Here are a couple of pics of my new but used truck.

[Jetskiboy77]

Nice truck, what engine is that? It looks like its a lot of fun.

[buzzsaw46]

I am using the stock 18ss header and schumacher menace .21 pipe. The stinger just broke off it so i am definaltly in the market for a new one. Possibley the rd logics one. Just need to find a company that will ship to APO addresses.

Your header is better than the old cast one but it looks a bit small, kinda like the old T-maxx header. I did try the T-maxx header and found it restricted power through out the power band. I switched to a Hobby shop NJ big tube header and it definatly increased my power. Right now I'm running both styles of the Big tube header and prefer the first generation over the G2 which is a bit shorter.

For Pipes I have tried four, The stock NMT pipe, a stock T-maxx pipe, a Paris turbo ring, and an Ofna pipe that came with an ultra worlds 2 buggy. The best of the bunch is the paris followed by the Ofna. both of these pipes are low-mid range type pipes while the NMT and T-maxx pipes are more of a top end pipe, which I would expect to also see on the Menace since speed was the goal of that truck.

The O.S. 18 CV-R really starts dropping power over about 33,000 rpm so you want to gear high and make use of the engines low end grunt, you also dont want a pipe designed to accentuate(SP) power at high rpms.

Good luck on your quest for more power!

[jjmag26]

Nice truck, what engine is that? It looks like its a lot of fun.
Hpi .25 Savage engine

[MT2 owns you]

buzzsaw- what header are you using with your cvrx? i miay get a new pipe soon, a cvec to be specific, and will need a new header too. also, two more questions, how is a ths header? good? is it resptrictive or flow really good? same question but for a rd logices pipe. i have a ths, about to get another (buying my friends half aluminum rs4, it comes with a ths pipe) and if i dont get the cvec and dont use one of my two ths pipes, ill get the rd logics one. thanks. oh, i dont race so race legal is NOTHING to me, yea, ill make one of my touring cars a light weight racer, but i wont be real strictly following legal stuff since ill prolly just race silent night if i ever do race.

[buzzsaw46]

Of the four headers I have tried this is my favorite, http://www.hobbyshopnj.com/header.html

I dont have any experiance with the RD logics or THS but have read possitive posts on both, but to put it in perspective I dont ever recall reading a bad post about any pipe;) The problem is most people will try one setup and call it good. A freind of mine runs an O.S. RZ-B 01 on a cvec and swears by it. They do make sence in that you can tune them to your engine to some extent but I dont care for the two piece design. I really want to try one of the Vantage carbon fiber pipes on my NMT mainly for the durability factor, I put a couple good dents in my Ofna and dont even remember hitting anything:D

[puzzlecolor]

guys, i really need your help here...

what is the different between hpi rush evo and rs4 mt2?

i want to know about the comparison between 2 of them, hpi website didn't help me much...about durability,speed and anything else...anybody can guide me through?

anywebsite with good pricing? im from singapore anyway?

thanks guys :)

[paulicat]

For one thing, the Rush Evo is 2wd, the MT2 is 4wd.
But I'm no expert past that...

[doesgo]

There are probably more differences between the Rush and MT2 than similarities. The Rush is like the Associated RC10GT or Team Losi XXX-NT. The MT2 is a 1/10-scale stadium truck, but its 4WD configuration changes things around considerably.

[puzzlecolor]

which one is best to handling? 2wd or 4wd?

[paulicat]

I prefer 4wd handling myself...I think most people will say that 4wd handles better than 2wd (thats just my opinion though).

[doesgo]

Same here. 4WD is just more fun, in my opinion.

[Jetskiboy77]

Same here. 4WD is just more fun, in my opinion.


I also agree, I love the 4wd and also the 4wd braking is a plus too.

[MT2 owns you]

i agree also, 4WD is more fun. when i ran my mt2 with no front diff (stripped) it had trouble not spinning out, WITH AN EPIC .18! imagine my cvrx and 2WD. thatd...just not be any fun at all. the rush is more of a racer, the mt2 is more of a basher if you ask me.

[slowmt]

Anyone know of a place that sells purple aluminum for the mt. I got almost everything just need the diff covers, steering cover and spur holder.

[MT2 owns you]

powerlineracing.com by the way, you shouhldnt get all aluminum unless you NEED it, it just makes your car heavier->slower. also, dont get aluminum a arms or bumper, most likely you will crash and regret having those peices on. if you leave the plastic ones on, they will snap when you crash and probably save the rest of your car. with the aluminum a arms on, you will bend them, and who knows what else, most likely id say...oh.........you entire car?? yea...think about that (yes, im in a bad mood, i got a day to study for my history and spanish exams, i suck at spanish and only know everything after april in history. fun.)

[Jetskiboy77]

powerlineracing.com by the way, you shouhldnt get all aluminum unless you NEED it, it just makes your car heavier->slower. also, dont get aluminum a arms or bumper, most likely you will crash and regret having those peices on. if you leave the plastic ones on, they will snap when you crash and probably save the rest of your car. with the aluminum a arms on, you will bend them, and who knows what else, most likely id say...oh.........you entire car?? yea...think about that (yes, im in a bad mood, i got a day to study for my history and spanish exams, i suck at spanish and only know everything after april in history. fun.)


Dont hate on the all aluminum NMT. :cool:


:D :D :D

[slowmt]

well i'll go ahead and classify this as a need. I have the cash and i want it so i will get it. I already have it so i am not to worried about it. I did think about it and love teh way it looks. Thanks though :)

[MT2 owns you]

Dont hate on the all aluminum NMT. :cool:


:D :D :D

yea yea, like i said, im in a bad mood, and NOW its for two reasons. exams, and this letter i got concerning my ipod battery. besides, just as i was reading this i got a good idea (i think, i have no idea). what it is is an aluminum a arm, but adjustable, like turnbuckles. thered be a turn buckle rod in eact side of the a arm, and would allow as a breaking point, but could also adjust you cars width...ok...so its not as great as i thought...but cool...

[puzzlecolor]

i agree also, 4WD is more fun. when i ran my mt2 with no front diff (stripped) it had trouble not spinning out, WITH AN EPIC .18! imagine my cvrx and 2WD. thatd...just not be any fun at all. the rush is more of a racer, the mt2 is more of a basher if you ask me.


hei, thanks for the info...i got the point from you...:)

how much is the 18ss engine cost ? and if i change the engine, do i need to change the rest of the parts? please let me know again :) and thanks master

[MT2 owns you]

assuming its not sarcasm i detect in your tone, your welcome. the 18ss is...$318 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJKT0&P=ML) plus radio which is about 100-150 $ depending which radio you buy, I would suggest an MX3 its fairly cheap, FM, and from the half hour ive used it, REALLY easy to use. if you change the engine, depending what engine, i really doubt you'll need to change anything except engine mounts and gears, possibly a few screws too. nothing too hard (at all). just make sure you get the mesh's and whatnot right. otherwise it could be a disaster.

[puzzlecolor]

assuming its not sarcasm i detect in your tone, your welcome. the 18ss is...$318 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJKT0&P=ML) plus radio which is about 100-150 $ depending which radio you buy, I would suggest an MX3 its fairly cheap, FM, and from the half hour ive used it, REALLY easy to use. if you change the engine, depending what engine, i really doubt you'll need to change anything except engine mounts and gears, possibly a few screws too. nothing too hard (at all). just make sure you get the mesh's and whatnot right. otherwise it could be a disaster.


sorry if my tone sounds like that...just too much starwars here...big fan of that movie...didn't mean anything...sorry

actually i had a radio...it is futaba p2k...it is an am radio...i can use that rite?i know fm is far better than am radio...but tight on budget here...since i just spent too much for my ep touring car...me idiot...

i read in hpi website that if i change into a faster engine...some of the screw will getting loose and loose...is it true?(in case i buy normal mt2)

i really prefer mt2 18ss for my self since i have a transmitter already...but i also have the feeling if that one is more to profesional than for an amateur like me...

so...should i get mt2 or mt2 18ss?

if i get normal mt2...later on...i can upgrade it rite? but is it cost more than if i buy the 18ss??

thanks for your help :)

[MT2 owns you]

dont worry about it, my grade is probably the most sarcastic group of people youll ever meet, especially me. anywho.
if you switch to a faster engine your screws may become looser (you meant screws in general right? any screw on the car?) but that wont happen if you locktite them and do whats needed to prevent that. yea, you can use that radio, almost positive. its 2 channel right? (now THATS a stupid question (from me)) uh, just buy the mt2 18ss. trust me. its worth it. and if you upgrade from the mt2, peice by peice, itll cost way more than simply buying the mt2 18ss. thats why i just bought th kit i addition to me mt2 rtr. WAAAY cheaper. and i personnally dont think the 18ss is going to be much harder to use, if at all. nothing that you cant handle most likely. i think youll be fine (ok, so how many times have i said that, and then reworded it and said it again?) yea, you can upgrade the rtr to 18ss since they are the same general parts.

soo..get the mt2 18ss. you have a radio already. its a better car than the rtr. go for the 18ss.
(oh man, i dont think ive repeated my self so many times in one post!)

[puzzlecolor]

dont worry about it, my grade is probably the most sarcastic group of people youll ever meet, especially me. anywho.
if you switch to a faster engine your screws may become looser (you meant screws in general right? any screw on the car?) but that wont happen if you locktite them and do whats needed to prevent that. yea, you can use that radio, almost positive. its 2 channel right? (now THATS a stupid question (from me)) uh, just buy the mt2 18ss. trust me. its worth it. and if you upgrade from the mt2, peice by peice, itll cost way more than simply buying the mt2 18ss. thats why i just bought th kit i addition to me mt2 rtr. WAAAY cheaper. and i personnally dont think the 18ss is going to be much harder to use, if at all. nothing that you cant handle most likely. i think youll be fine (ok, so how many times have i said that, and then reworded it and said it again?) yea, you can upgrade the rtr to 18ss since they are the same general parts.

soo..get the mt2 18ss. you have a radio already. its a better car than the rtr. go for the 18ss.
(oh man, i dont think ive repeated my self so many times in one post!)


:) thanks for the friendly explanation...now i can stop myself to do research on mt2...been looking for someone that can answer my question...and finally found you here...thanks :)

now i make up my mind already...18ss...way to go...and yes, my controler is 2 channel :)

now i need to wait until 20th of june...as i get my money on that day...:)

thanks a lot! :)

[MT2 owns you]

np problem, but theres plently of people here that could help, im just the one who was actually here.

[grantothismo]

Hey guys - new to the forum, just thought I'd post some pics of my mt2.

[buzzsaw46]

Nice body!!! Lets see the inside. Do I see an O.S. air filter in there?

[paulicat]

Nice truck grantothismo, who makes that body? How hard was it to get it to fit right?

[buzzsaw46]

It is a Savage body by HPI

[paulicat]

Thanks buzzsaw46!
Do they fit pretty easily?

[buzzsaw46]

I had the early '50s chevy body on mine for a bit and it fit OK. The 'cuda looks like it fits better.

[paulicat]

Thanks for the info!
I'll check into that line of bodies to see if I like something.

[grantothismo]

Fits real easy. Yes that is an OS under the hood. I have ton of hopups:

Small - Anything under $20:
OS Air Cleaner - Came with engine, its really nice
*Air Cleaner - Motor Saver - $11.00
HPI Woven Graphite Front Shock Tower - 17.59
HPI Lightweight Flywheel - 17.59 (Love this flywheel, but not very reliable)
HPI Dodge Body - 18.99 (Just looks Better)
HPI Brake Disk FiberGlass - 12.99 (Stops better)
HPI Hinge Pins Nitro Set - 14.79 (Replace with SS parts)
*Tamiya 4mm Lock Nut - 2.49
HPI Aluminum Hex Hub 12mm - 17.59 (Stops the stripping of the wheels hex)
HPI Teflon Shock Inserts - 3.89 (Had these for my old original shocks, the threaded already have them)
HPI Gear Differential Adjustable Spring Set - 7.69 (Makes the diff act like a ball diff)
HPI Racing Clutch - 13.99
HPI Blue Front Springs - 4.79
HPI Blue Rear Srpings - 4.79
*Hot Bodies Aluminum Front Knuckle Arm - 19.99 (Discontinued, New from Powerline)
*Hot Bodies Aluminum Rear Knuckle Arm - 19.99 (Discontinued, New from Powerline)
Ofna 125CC Fuel Tank - 9.99
HPI Heavy Duty Cup - 6.69 (I thought these were stupid, but they actually last 5 times longer than stock)
HPI Heavy Duty Cup - 5.79 (Same as above)
Proline 2 stage Foam Inserts - 6.19/set (Much better than stock foams)


Medium $20 - $50:
HPI Universal Dogbone Front - 28.99
HPI Universal Dogbone Rear - 28.99
HPI Sway Bar Set - 28.99
HPI Wheels 4 sets - 64.00 (I love having different wheels)
HPI S-Compound X Pattern Tires 2 sets - 50.00 (Gave them away they were alright)
Proline BowTies M Compound Tires 2 sets - 38.00 (Great on Hard Pack Track)
Proline HoleShots M Compound Tires 2 sets - 34.00 (Great on Dusty Loose Track)
Proline Evil Twin R3 Tires - 36.00 (Great on Smooth Groomed Track)
HPI Woven Graphite Rear Shock Tower - 21.99
HPI Titanium Turnbuckles - 34.99 - Needs HPI Heavy Duty Ball Cup - 7.89
THS Exaust - 49.99 (Better than the CVEC and is currently installed)
CVEC Exaust - 37.00 (Better than stock or HPI)
HPI Exaust - 49.99 (Hated it, got a CVEC)
HiTech 645 Steering Servo - 39.99
HPI Aluminum Threaded Front Shock - 37.99
HPI Aluminum Threaded Rear Shock - 37.99
HPI Upper Deck Graphite Woven - 45.99
HPI Hardened Diff Gears - 32.99 (need two)
HPI SS Suspension Shaft - 17.59
Powerline Aluminum Steering - 22.79
Ofna Reciever Pack - 25.99
HPI Super Chassis - 37.99 (This with the CF upper chassis brace makes it super stiff)

Large > $50:
HPI .18SS Engine - 144.99 (Got tired, sold it)
O.S. .18 CV-RX w/11J Rotary Carb - 99.99 (This thing got some b***s)


This thing just rocks - love it to death.

What do you guys think of yours.

[doesgo]

"What do you guys think of yours."

I love mine! O.S. .21RG for power, some hop-ups, overall a very fun truck. Here it is last fall, my SlapMaFro cohort took a series of stills during this double front flip and put together a composite, I thought it turned out pretty cool.

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/brucecomposite2.jpg

[Jetskiboy77]

I love my truck too.

And that pic is awesome doesgo.

[slowmt]

I love mine too. I just love how simple it is and how quickly you can tear it down and rebuild it.

[slowmt]

doesgo- how do you like the mt with that high power of an engine? I got the .18 cv-rx now and would like a little more power.

[doesgo]

The 21RG is a "sport" engine, but it's a pretty nice performer and VERY reliable. Lots of people run them in their 1/8-scale buggies, in fact I had this one in my GS SUT (truggy) all last season and took home the season-long championship with it. Plenty of power in the NMT for me. Spins all four tires regularly and hits a nice top speed, too, with the current 14/49 gearing and Masher 2000 tires. I'll probably step up on the gearing a bit, it's too punchy down low, especially with "regular" tires on it.

And at around $110 (non-pull) it's tough to beat.

[MT2 owns you]

what are the specs of the 21RG? like...HP, torque, etc. oh wait, i just got a cvrx..oh well, ill find a home for it somewhere (actually prolly not).

[slowmt]

Straight from tower. Not to bad at all. Wonder how it would stack up against a .18 tz?

SPECS: Displacement: 3.46cc (0.21 cubic inches)
Bore: 16.6mm (.654") Stroke: 16mm (.63")
Weight: 325 grams (11.47 ounces)
Power Output: 1.9 BHP at 30,000 RPM
Practical RPM Range: 3,000-35,000 RPM
Crankshaft Thread Size: 1/4-28
Crankshaft Length: 22.5mm from ft bearing to tip
Length: 63mm (2.58') from front of front bearing to back of backplate
Width: 29.6mm (1.17") the width neglecting the mounting flanges
37mm (1.46") distance across crankcase measured between the centers
Height: 97.1mm (3.82)

[doesgo]

The TZ might be a little more powerful, actually, and definitely easier to mount into an NMT. I did my big-block NMT conversion over a year ago, before the TZ and .18CV-R were out en masse (and long before the CV-R was so cheap), and also simply because I had a couple "extra" big-blocks lying around. Would I do it again? Hard to say. The .18CV-R is only $100 now, but spare big-blocks are free. I just used some spare GS Storm engine mounts and used a Savage header, so the swap was essentially free.

I also like that the RG is a "sport" engine, which is a term used to describe engines that are not high-strung, they just go about their business and get it done. Not a bunch of ports nor does it rev to the sky, but it puts down some nice power and is rarely in need of a needle twist. That's worth a lot to me.

I just think it's cool to have so many good options out there!

[buzzsaw46]

two other advantages of the TZ would be lighter weight and lower cg, the TZ is 2oz lighter and 3/4" lower, but the RG is cheaper!

[MT2 owns you]

so doesgo, are you saying that the .21RG is wicked easy to tune?? like, easy than an OS cvrx? thanks

buzzsaw, thats means my truck would be more balanced and perform better?

[doesgo]

In my experience, yes. My .12CV-R and .21RG are the easiest-to-own (and therefore most fun) engines I've ever had.

[slowmt]

anyone know of a tz in an mt? have any pics ?

[buzzsaw46]

I would think it would handle better with the TZ!

[jjmag26]

I posted this ? on another site and never got an answer so I will try here. Has anyone widened their mt, maybe by using mt2 arms and such. Here's a pic of my mt compared to standard st. Thanks for any help.

[slowmt]

got a problem. had a wreck so i chenged over th the aluminum parts that i had. on the c hubs the plastic bushing that they supply has a bigger hole than the screw can fill. by probably 2 mm. SO the nuckles just kins float around in there. I tried to see if i had any bearings or anything that could fit in there and work and i don't, neither does teh lhs. These are GPM c hubs and nuckles. anyone got these and had the same problem? The truck is definalty driveable but is very unpredictable now because the camber, castor, toe, and alighnment are constantly changing.

[buzzsaw46]

Slow, Did you get the bearing C-hubs or the standard ones? I have the bearing hubs and the bushings were a bit sloppy, but with the bearings installed every thing is nice and tight.

[buzzsaw46]

I just looked and it apears that GPM only makes a bearing version of the C-hubs, my next question is did your hubs come with new king pins? (the screw that holds the knuckles) or are you using the screws that came with your truck? The GPM screws have a shoulder on them and if you are using the trucks screws that would give the kind of play you are seeing.

[slowmt]

The c hubs came with a screw. It does not fill the gap at all, like 1-2mm gap at any given time. tried some bearings that i had and they were the same as teh bushings. The lhs didnt have any ideas either.

[buzzsaw46]

The bearings should be 5x8mm. Did you buy these new? There has to be an answer! I just dont know what it is yet.

[MT2 owns you]

maybe it was a faulty pack? (IF slow bought them new)

[MT2 owns you]

bah, my second double post, ever!

[buzzsaw46]

maybe it was a faulty pack? (IF slow bought them new)

Thats what I was thinking ;)

Hey Slow, have you got any pics?

[slowmt]

No pics right now. My lhs called me and said that they might have something that will work. Going there after work. Wish me luck!

[buzzsaw46]

Now that is service, Nice LHS!! LUCK

[slowmt]

Well it turns out that they didnt have the part that would work. I am going back on sunday to try again. They ordered some bearings and will check to see if we can get it to work.

[slowmt]

Well i found a bearing laying around and it fits! only have one though and the lhs is not open for 2 days. boooo who. well here are teh specs of it; 4x8x3mm and it fits like a glove. got to go get a few more and i am back in bidness. Now on for gearing for teh 2 speed, i drive on road on a track that is a converted double tennis court. what gear do yall recommend?

[MT2 owns you]

14/17 52/49? id go with something like that.

[buzzsaw46]

So you are using the stock screws for the king pins? If you had told me that I could have told you what you needed. The correct king pins would require 5x8mm bearings, One thing that you will realy have to watch out for is to make sure you get the knuckles centered in the c-hubs, with out the shoulder on the screws(king pins) the knuckles wont self center. http://www.gpmracing.us/index.cgi?partnumber=NRS4004S&c=10 Here is a pic that shows what you should have received along with your C-hubs.

For a track as small as you will be running on I would probably stick with the stock two speed gears and adjust after running.

[slowmt]

I used all the parts that came with the kit. The screws were silver and they had bushings. the bushings had an inner diameter of 5mm and the screw is 4mm so there was 1mm of free space there.

[buzzsaw46]

Sorry about snapping a bit earlier I was having a bad day and shouldnt even have posted until later. I would contact your supplier for the C-hubs and let them know your problem. I would be carefull assembling them with 3mm srews though as you could get the knuckles off center and it might cause some binding or handleing issues.

Glad you got it all figured out and again my apologies to all the readers about my last post :o

[slowmt]

Its all good man. No worries here. you have been very helpfull

[buzzsaw46]

WOOOHOOO!!! I just ordered up some more bling for the MT, I found an excellent deal on a Vantage pipe on ebay. Will this look sweet or what!!

[Jetskiboy77]

Niceeee... Tell us how it runs once you get it on.

[buzzsaw46]

With out a doubt!!! I cant find much info from other users about performance so I bought it mostly for durability, I put a hole in my Ofna pipe a few weeks ago:( and it was dented from a previous unknown incedent(sp) so I knew I needed a tough pipe;) I was going to get a Savage SS ribbed pipe cause I have wanted to try one on the CV-R but this was way to good a price too pass up and it looks awesome, I just hope the resin can hold up to the barrage of rocks the front tire kicks up. I hope I get it before this weekend, I cant wait to run it:D

[buzzsaw46]

Sweet I just got shipping confirmation!!! OOOO I cant wait.

[slowmt]

Hell yeah man! Looks awesome

[slowmt]

got a question for yall. I bought this rechargable pack
http://www.eaglemodel.com/en-net/en%20cont/en%20on%20new2/PICKUP2/1064.GIF
Now i dont want to have to disconnect it everytime i recharge it. could i just solder another connector onto that one so that i have a "Y" connector, one for the reciever and one for the charger?

[MT2 owns you]

jetskiboy-i know you have the ofna linkage so you might know. i got the linkage (with purple stoppers :p :D ) and im a little confused...where does the spring go? remember i have a rotary carb it it makes a difference. so far i have it in this order:

ballcup---(this is the rod--)----stopper--purple plastic thing tha mounts to the arm--spring--stopper--------end of rod-

[MT2 owns you]

well.....i feel like an idiot...i thouhgt the spring was a TRS not just a spring...damn...well...i figured it out..

[Tim'sLosi]

got a question for yall. I bought this rechargable pack
http://www.eaglemodel.com/en-net/en%20cont/en%20on%20new2/PICKUP2/1064.GIF
Now i dont want to have to disconnect it everytime i recharge it. could i just solder another connector onto that one so that i have a "Y" connector, one for the reciever and one for the charger?

Nah...just buy one of these http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJC15&P=ML

[Jetskiboy77]

well.....i feel like an idiot...i thouhgt the spring was a TRS not just a spring...damn...well...i figured it out..


Well its here (http://kedar.itgo.com/tipz.html#sliderotary) if you need to see it.

[buzzsaw46]

Got it mounted :D :D I hope I get a chance to run it a bit today, weather is kinda crappy right now 68F with a 63F dew point :rolleyes:

[slowmt]

Got it mounted :D :D I hope I get a chance to run it a bit today, weather is kinda crappy right now 68F with a 63F dew point :rolleyes:


Looks awesome buzzsaw. I got a question, i have a JR xs3 with the rs300 receiver. I want ot use only one receiver for all my rc's so i was going to buy a few more receivers but can only find the rs310 model. it is an upgrade for the rs300. would that work fine as long as i get the right frequency? mine is 40mhz that is why it is so hard to find. THanks yall. Here it is:

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=421_36_49&products_id=9587

[buzzsaw46]

It will be fine as long as you get a 40mhz version, I tried using my freinds 27mhz R330s PCM RX and it was a no go with my R-1 and 75mhz module, yes I had the matching ch65 xtal in the RX. Is 40mhz ham band??

Thanks for the Comp. I hope this thing runs as good as it looks, I loved the Ofna pipe but it was weak!!!

[slowmt]

I am not to sure about the 40mhz. I got it off ebay for a decent price not paying any attention to what freq. i was. SO how does that thing sound? How about performance?

[buzzsaw46]

There were some thunder storms in the area but they are clearing out so I might go out here pretty quick and see what it does.

[doesgo]

Where are you located, slowmt? The 40MHz is used for RC in, I think, Australia and/or Europe, but not in the U.S. as far as I know. That said, the RS300 and RS310 are functionally interchangeable as long as you have the correctly band.

RCMart is out of Hong Kong or something, right?

[slowmt]

I am in Japan. I bought the radio from China i think.

[buzzsaw46]

The Vantage Pipe ROCKS my NMT!!!! Smoother low end, seems to favor the upper mid range. It's a bit hard to control on the gravel road in front of my house past 2/3 throttle, did manage a few full throttle runs and this thing is screeming!!!! After about 3/4 tank of fuel my temp was only up to 221F so I can probably get a few more MPH out of it but I'll hold off till I can run a big parking lot. Wish I had the day off so I could bash but it is a holiday weekend coming up:D

[slowmt]

Sweet Dude!! Get a video up@!@

[buzzsaw46]

Ok quality is pretty bad, no one around to hold the camera but the tripod worked ok. you'll get a good idea of the sound and speed. Got the temps up to about 276F this time so she is probably close to peak now.

http://www.happyhangar.com/displayimage.php?pos=-2124

[slowmt]

Nice one man. Hauls a$$!

[buzzsaw46]

I'll try and get some better footage over the next couple days. Hopefully some where I can get some traction;)

[zero sk8er]

hi everyone i got a few questions. im planning on getting a cv-rx .18 engine. im looking for more power because my cv-x is a bit too slow for me. Im planning on just doing some bashing around dirt lots or parking lots. Will the current mounts im using mount the .18 properly? im usingthese (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ61&P=7) currently.

also, my drivetrain is stock, besides a slipper clutch. what basic drivtrain parts should i buy to handle the power of the new engine? what kinds of nice exhuasts are out there under $40? thanks :).

[MT2 owns you]

yep, those mounts should definitly work, i mean, a mount is a mount right? they must have the same hole locations. and if it doesnt fit, the cvrx comes with spacers. i think you will need them because i needed to use them in my mt2. anyway, slipper clutch is a good start, id get a new clutch bell and spur too. i would (these are actually what i plan on getting) go with 16/49 for starters. um...pipe...sorry cant help you there, i dont know any good pipes for under 40 (thats not much, ths and rd logics are the only pipe companies i know).

[buzzsaw46]

One of my favorite pipes is the Paris turbo ring about $25 and I really like the Hobby Shop NJ's Big Tube Headers, again about $25. For the drive train just run what you have and upgrade to MT2 parts when the stockers let go on you. The 16/49 gears will be silly fast, I'm running 15/49 right now and anything other than paved road is just insane!!! It's great in parking lots but way too fast for the rough terain I typicaly run on.

[zero sk8er]

answers all my questions, thanks :D .

[buzzsaw46]

Not a problem!! Good luck with your CV-R:D

[Jetskiboy77]

Now why wont this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGWX7&P=M) fit the NMT?

[MT2 owns you]

it will if you drill a few holes here and there, ancd countersink they to look good (and not scrape and round off on the bottom of the chassis making it impossible to get them out). i bought a plastic NMT upper deck for my mt2, and i think...to put that in...theres..4 holes you need to drill?..ill check exactly what holes you need to drill later.

[buzzsaw46]

That is trick looking!!!! sure would go nice with my Vantage pipe:D

[Jetskiboy77]

Well I got my second NMT truck running. If anyone remembers I built the stock truck again with all the parts I had laying around. I got a job for the summer, and went out and bought a OS .18 CVR. Ill get pics of it later. I started breaking it in and I love both the truck and the engine. I want to only do what is necessary to this truck since I went all out on my .21 truck. I wanted to do carbon fiber shock towers and upperdeck, and then the HD drivetrain parts, and that should about cover it. So when I go to Taco Bell later ill stop by the LHS since there so close to each other and see what parts they have there already.

[MT2 owns you]

i think you should get aluminum knuckles/C hubs/rear hub carriers and an aluminum bearing steering assembly too

[CVTJ]

I found a listing on Ebay for the Paris Turbo Ring (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5976705395&category=34063&ssPageName=WD1V&rd=1)

I have already bought and received mine. They are brand new still in the package.

[slowmt]

Thinking about selling my MT to get a buggy. Here is a list of what is on it. Will post some pics later.

GPM FRONT/REAR ARMS
GPM FRONT/REAR SHOCK TOWERS
GPM RACING CHASSIS AND UPPER DECK
GPM FRONT/REAR LOWER ARM MOUNTS
GPM Nuckles and c HUBS front
GPM Rear HUBS
HPI bolt on Wheel Hexes
HPI titanium turnbuckles all around
DODGE RAM BODY PAINTED BLACK
OS 18CVRX ENGINE less than half a gallon run through it
HPI hardened diff gears front and back filled with silicone diff fliud
front and Rear CVD's
Full MT2 front rear dogbones and axels
HPI 2 speed tranny
ofna 125cc fuel tank stock is 75cc!
stock all terrain tires and rims
Proline speed dawg tires mounted on HPI rims
Hitec 645 high torque steering servo

6 sets of brand new front and rear arms in package
6 sets of brand new turnbuckles in package
All the stock parts that were swapped out. enought to make a second truck!
Futaba MJ radio
1100mah 5 cell battery
RD logics pipe and header New in box
Stock 18ss header with stock pipe.
tons of spare parts. To much to list.

If you are interested please PM me or email to chuki180@oasis.mediatti.net and bryan.osullivan@kadena.af.mil

[Jetskiboy77]

i think you should get aluminum knuckles/C hubs/rear hub carriers and an aluminum bearing steering assembly too

Ive already done a bunch of things to it Owen. Like THS pipe that I found laying around, titanium turnbuckles, aluminum steering with bearings and bearings in the clutchbell that drives the NMT2 slipper clutch. Im thinking dual metal disk brakes, aluminum tranny holder, titanium chassis, and those carbon fiber parts with the HD parts for the drivetrain. You know, nothing too big. :p

[MT2 owns you]

Ive already done a bunch of things to it Owen. Like THS pipe that I found laying around, titanium turnbuckles, aluminum steering with bearings and bearings in the clutchbell that drives the NMT2 slipper clutch. Im thinking dual metal disk brakes, aluminum tranny holder, titanium chassis, and those carbon fiber parts with the HD parts for the drivetrain. You know, nothing too big. :p
haha, PERFECT!


(btw, whered you get the bearing steering? ive found nylon bushing steering but not bearing :confused: )

[MT2 owns you]

well, ive recently aquired another rs4 3 ss, imediatly took it apart, cleaned it the best i could (engine not included, that thing is horribly dirty, due to a fuel leak tht clings dirt to everything it leaks on, im making a new gasket now) and imediatly converted it to rally (same day i got it), only to convert it back to onroad (the next day, haha, wow, i change my cars a LOT!...of course it had a rally bumper...mount...i put a mt2 bumper on it) soo...i decided not to let that 2 speed go to waste and put it in my cvrx/mt2. my question is, can the cvrx pull these gears (18/47 22/43)?? i dont wanna put too much stress on the engine because 1) its new 2) its really nice 3) i DO NOT have the money for another engine! oh, its got mashers on now, buuuttt, i can buy and glue some onroad tires easy enough, i do have atleast that much money.

Thanks in advance! :)

well, i put it in anyway, ill see how it goes once i get some good tires, i know mashers arent suitable. oh, i though i would eventually go with something like this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM730&P=7, seems good to me.

[buzzsaw46]

You should be fine with those gears for on road driving, little much for off road. I had to gear down a bit because it was just too fast with 18/47 for rough terrain, right now I have 15/49 and it's still almost too fast.

[MT2 owns you]

awesome!! im shooting for, pretty much a 70mph (or so, ill be very very suprised if it manages 50...first i need a radar gun pr something though) mt2. that and i was bored and wanted to put in a 2 speed. i was just worried that those high gears would put too much strain on the engine, especially with the mashers (big and heavy). well, its good to know that im able to use it. i really dont feel like going to buy new gears, i dont have the money either (im saving up for a .12 TZ and a rd logics pipe which should be in the 250-300 range :() (sorry for the long post)

[buzzsaw46]

Oh the mashers will be too much for those gears!! get some on road rubber for those gears! I dont know if you'll get 70 but you will be over 50 easy and probably over 60:D

[MT2 owns you]

thanks!! theres a good chance you just saved me from destroying something! ill order some black superstar wheels and road..hawgs i think..and some more black super star wheels formy trac-ta-gators!! :D (yep, i got the idea from you, and they seem to be really grippy)

[Jetskiboy77]

haha, PERFECT!


(btw, whered you get the bearing steering? ive found nylon bushing steering but not bearing :confused: )


Off road driving is sooooooo much fun, I forgot what it was like since I havent driven off road in about 4 years. Down the block from my house is a wild life preserve and some guy on the corner of my block cut down a small space to park cars and its covered in dirt and tree mulch. Lets just say its a lot of fun with my new OS .18CVR, and ill try to get a video/pics tomorrow. BTW, I bought the steering with bushing and put in ball bearings that I got off Tower.

[slowmt]

Well i decided to let the MT go. I put it up on ebay and on this classified site if anyone is interested.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemID=114253

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5987816005&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

[Jetskiboy77]

Hey Slow, did you have to change anything to get the "Front and rear MT2 outdrive's, dogbone's, and axel conversion done with a full set of brand new spares each" to fit in?

[slowmt]

Nope. Just a direct swap out of each of teh parts

[Jetskiboy77]

Im sorry to be annoying but then doesnt that mean that this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHLX4&P=7) and this (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHLX5&P=M) will fit the NMT with out changing anything too?

[slowmt]

I don't see why they wouldnt if the stock ones fit mine

[doesgo]

Sure looks like they'd work as long as you change the diff outdrives to the MT2 parts. I'm running MT2 stock dogbones at all four corners and only had to change the axle stubs (which are included in the universals, of course) and the diff outdrives.

And considering the rate at which I seem to be losing dogbones off big jumps (even without popping off ball cups!), buying universals might be money well spent!

[MT2 owns you]

i thought the mt2 a arms were longer :confused: ...

[Jetskiboy77]

Sure looks like they'd work as long as you change the diff outdrives to the MT2 parts. I'm running MT2 stock dogbones at all four corners and only had to change the axle stubs (which are included in the universals, of course) and the diff outdrives.

And considering the rate at which I seem to be losing dogbones off big jumps (even without popping off ball cups!), buying universals might be money well spent!


Do you have a link to the diff outdrives?

[doesgo]

Do you have a link to the diff outdrives?

The diff outdrives:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXFYU4

The rear axle stubs I used:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXFYU6

The front axle stubs I used:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXFYU5

And the dogbones:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXFYU8

[MT2 owns you]

hey guys check out what me an jetskiboy found >> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000685891&I=LXFKD0&P=K its a direct fit, and mucho bettero than the stock metal brakes. :D might work a lot better with a metal brake disk though.

[Jetskiboy77]

Ill try to get pics of it installed soon.

[doesgo]

What metal disc is to be used?

Here's the setup Kedar installed on his NMT: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000295726&I=LXT697&P=K

[Jetskiboy77]

Doesgo, thats where I got the idea to do this. I already did what Kedar did, but I didnt want to spend the money that the MP-6 brakes cost, so I seached about Tower and found the R40 pads and then these Ofna discs. (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCVW3&P=7) Its the same thing as Kedar's, but much cheaper, and a perfect, no mod fit.

[doesgo]

Those parts just took up residence on my Wish List! :) Thanks!

[Jetskiboy77]

Haha, no problem, I didnt know if anyone had saw those parts already. And they do fit on perfect, I already have them installed, but now I have to wait for my titanium parts to come and my servo and tx. I said I wasnt going to spend a penny on this second NMT, and what do I do? Make it into a NMT2 with titanium chassis and shock towers, HPI aluminum shocks, OS .18 CVR, carbon fiber upperdeck, and then a hitec servo and another reciever for my MX-3. Thank god I got a summer job this year. :) Ill have pics when its done.

[grantothismo]

Jetskiboy:

The CF Upper chassis plate is a nice piece and will lower the CG of the truck. I have been running one in mine for a little over a year.

The first ones that came out with the front diff screws too small and the mid chassis screw too small as well. I had to replace those screw with longer ones.

[Jetskiboy77]

Jetskiboy:

The CF Upper chassis plate is a nice piece and will lower the CG of the truck. I have been running one in mine for a little over a year.

The first ones that came out with the front diff screws too small and the mid chassis screw too small as well. I had to replace those screw with longer ones.

Are you talking about the graphite upperdeck for the nmt or nmt2? I have the one for the nmt2, and it does seem like it puts everything in the truck rather nicely. I hope mine holds up for a year, im scared im going to go off a jump and land wrong and crack it.

[grantothismo]

I have had some pretty nasty spills with mine - never broke.

It is a nicely engineered piece - I highly recommend it.

Gran

[Jetskiboy77]

Thanks a lot for the info. Then it should be awesome with my titanium chassis.

[montrealer]

Thanks a lot for the info. Then it should be awesome with my titanium chassis.

I saw the titanium chassis from F4 racing on the net. Is it true that titanium does not scratch ?

[doesgo]

It'll get scratched by things harder than titanium! So it won't get as scratched up by the usual stuff as aluminum would, but it will scratch.

[Jetskiboy77]

Ive been running my titanium chassis pretty hard lately. For pics and a vid look at the NMT2 forum. My chassis really doesnt seem scratched at all. Theres some minor, and I mean MINOR scratches, but nothing you can really see unless your looking for them. So far the chassis and the other titanium parts from Larry have been fantastic.

[montrealer]

Ive been running my titanium chassis pretty hard lately. For pics and a vid look at the NMT2 forum. My chassis really doesnt seem scratched at all. Theres some minor, and I mean MINOR scratches, but nothing you can really see unless your looking for them. So far the chassis and the other titanium parts from Larry have been fantastic.

Amazing !!!

[Jetskiboy77]

Went bashing with a bunch of guys in a park in NY and the chassis took some hard hits but its still perfect.

[bionictony]

does anyone know if the hpi mt2 radio tray fits on the hpi mt?

[Jetskiboy77]

It wont directly fit, you might have to change a few other things as well.

[socalBash]

where to get the CF upper deck?

[01sesedan]

What's up everyone, great forum.....

Hope you all had a good Christmas.

Here's my question, we were finally able to run the truck this weekend and it ran great. On Monday, we noticed that when we accelerated the truck would go to the left or to the right pretty hard, then we try to get it to go straight with the remote but it go old pretty fast. I check the steering servo’s turnbuckle and it looked ok. We did notice that this screw was loose and could not be tightened.

Could these parts be replaces with aftermarket part (are there aftermarket parts available), if there are some, would they help out.

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61743


Also, when accelerating, the front wheels wobble a lot, like if something were loose but I go over all the screws and everything is tight. How could this be corrected?


Hope this makes sense.

One more thing, which receiver cover and battery do you guys recommend?

Thanks…..

Jose

[01sesedan]

Here's one more thing that I remember from this weekend. While turning, sometime we'll here a grinding sound. I didn't notice if it was happening while accelerating or not but we couldn't figure out what it was.

Could you guys tell me what it might be?

Thanks....

[MT2 owns you]

is it while turning sharp? if so, its probably the dogbone hitting the edge of the cup/axle. to fix, i guess you cuold put an o ring in the cup, or set it so that it doesnt turn so sharp (there'll be a switch/button/knob on the radio to do this).

[01sesedan]

I'll check it out...

Thanks

[01sesedan]

Everything looks good. Dog bones are in good shape.
Is there anything else you recommend?
Thanks....

[MT2 owns you]

if that wasnt it i havent a clue. but you may need to experiment with o rings, since the dogbones might not show wear from hitting the cup.

[01sesedan]

MT2 - Thanks for the replies, I guess I know what's making that noise once it brakes.

The last time we took out the truck, the antenna tube fell out and the wire some how was torn about 5" from the receiver. Could I just find a wire that is the same size and solder it together to extend it? Or does it have to be soldered at the receiver? Do I need a wire that is specific for the antenna? Lastly, am I better off buying a new receiver?

One more thing, I feel like taking apart the differentials and rebuilding them but I'm not sure if there is some kind of rebuild kit for them. Just want to freshen them up.

Any tips would be appreciated.

Thanks

[Jetskiboy77]

For the diffs, I wouldnt replace anything unless it looked really worn and about to break. I would get some grease to grease them up and shims if you havent shimmed them properly. I had some real trouble with my dogbones so also make sure you have them spaced right using O-rings or fuel tubing. For your reciever I would look into sending it in to be repaired or just getting a new/better one if you have the money.

[dcshoelover]

Has anyone tried to put in a Traxxas Pro.15 on your mt? Will the optional engine mounts for the mt fit on the trx pro? Is it the right shaft configuration?

[KLH2004a]

Alright I tried searching the thread about three times but it seem inconclusive.

I see that people are using Ofna tanks, but some people are using different ones? I just put a .18 CV-RX on and I need more fuel on-board. So what is the best method? Does the MT2 100cc tank fit, directly? A little bit more would be nice, but if it is a direct fit not having to do any cutting would deffinately weigh in.

And yes that O.S. motor has balls. I couldn't believe it going through the yard at 40 mph and I could see it tearing grass out of the ground.

[doesgo]

I've done the OFNA #30280 125cc tank (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=84_85&products_id=38) mod on my NMT, it's pretty easy. Not sure if the 100cc MT2 tank is a direct fit on the NMT.

Here are some pics, let me know if you have any questions or want more pics. I used the stock front mount and an OFNA fuel tank post (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=84_85&products_id=239) for the rear mount. Had to cut off a small piece of the upper deck (the part the stock tank bolts to), but I haven't noticed any problems from that change and I made the change over two years ago.

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank1.jpg

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank2.jpg

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/nmttank3.jpg

[KLH2004a]

And you drilled a new hole for the post, if I remember correctly. I went ahead and ordred that tank anyway. Hopefully I can just use the original rear post. And I also hope I can find a dremel to borrow.

Hopefully soon I will realize that I need to stop spending money on this thing and go ahead and get a Savage/Revo.

[ryno1922]

Check out this site for some relly cool graphics for Truggies, Monster Trucks, 1/10 scale gas trucks, and 1/8 scale buggies coming soon. upgrade-rc.com
Contact info@upgrade-rc.com for any inquiries.

[Helgaiden]

Has anyone tried putting 1/8 buggy shocks (the ones with the plastic tube thing over the shaft) on this truck? I have one and have considered trying that. It is basically a 1/10 scale truggy (though it was around before that term was even around...)

[doesgo]

I've put GS Storm buggy shocks on my big-block NMT. Works great!

[01sesedan]

I've just picked up an aluminum steering assembly and now need some bearings. Could you guys tell me what size will fit? I ordered 4x8x3 and they did not fit, now the vendor is telling me the bearing should be flanged.

Hope you guys could point me in the right direction.....

Thanks....

[doesgo]

You can get 4x8 flanged bearings for $0.99 each here (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=53_54&products_id=589).

[01sesedan]

So it's just 4x8 not 4x8x3..... Correct

[doesgo]

Sorry, the ones I mentioned are flanged 4x8x3mm. I thought that was what you needed.

All bearings SHOULD have all three dimensions listed but often they don't for some reason, and f left off that third dimension as well.

[01sesedan]

so the 4x8x3 flanged are the correct bearings..... correct

[KLH2004a]

so the 4x8x3 flanged are the correct bearings..... correct

That is what I used and they worked and look like the same size as the bushings that were already there, I had also measured the plastic bushings with a micrometer and the 4x8x3 is the closest bearing size that I found They worked.

[01sesedan]

i got them by mail order, maybe they were the wrong size in the package. I'll place another order..

also, does it matter if they are flanged or not?

thanks

[KLH2004a]

I don't think you want flanged, I don't know what flanged is, but I dont think you want them.

[Jetskiboy77]

For the steering you do NOT want flanged bearings.

[01sesedan]

It's been a while and thanks for the information.

Here's another one, this weekend after running the truck for some time, it started acting up. Towards the end of the day, the right rear dogbone popped off. I had 2 spares and lost them too. After going over the rear suspension, everything checks out ok. Even the o-ring is in the cup.

Could you guys give me some tips?

Also, I'm planning on installing an OS .18, should I upgrade the drivetrain at this time or run it stock an replace the parts that break. By the way, I need motor mounts for the engine, will mt2 ss fit?

Thanks....

[Tim'sLosi]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=72133&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go

These are longer and will prevent the problem!

Upgrade the drivetrain now. HD gears and mip cvds at a minimum.

[Dino451]

Who knows where they sell these. I have a set but one stripped out due to a very hard hit. Need to replace asap.


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ43&P=7

[Tim'sLosi]

Who knows where they sell these. I have a set but one stripped out due to a very hard hit. Need to replace asap.


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ43&P=7

Powerline not made any longer. Here is a GPM set,
http://cgi.ebay.com/HPI-SUPER-RS4-NITRO-MT-RALLY-RTR-ALLOY-Front-Knuckles_W0QQitemZ6057134008QQcategoryZ34063QQssPa geNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[Dino451]

Online store?

[Rtn34]

will parts for the mt2 fit the mt???

[KLH2004a]

will parts for the mt2 fit the mt???

not really

[doesgo]

Some will, some won't. Some are virtually a direct fit, some require other parts to install them. The front bumper, dogbones, axle stubs, diff outdrives, spur gear/slipper clutch all fit nicely, but you can't install MT2 dogbones with NMT diff cups and axle stubs, for instance.

[Rtn34]

do they still make parts for the original mt? i just got one for free. the engine is not any good. my friend said that it needs new parts. Can i get parts to fix this engine. or should i replace it??? Or should i forget about the car altogether because its old. It's in good condition for the most part. please give me some advice.

[KLH2004a]

I have no problem keeping my three up and running, but the two are forsale now. As far as I know all of the parts are still available, and the .18 CV-RX is pretty nice in this truck, at least I think it is.

[Rtn34]

what makes the .18cv-rx?

[KLH2004a]

O.s.